The Magazine (30/10/2023) - The Irish Times

Magazine THE IRISH TIMES

Saturday, September 30, 2023

On beauty

Why Emma Dabiri wants to revolutionise how we think about our bodies

Anne Doyle On RTÉ, bad language and her new book of Irish ghost stories Wheels welcome Places offering easy access to the great outdoors

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How to save ¤400 a year by being annoying

Inside Columnists 5 6 29

BriannaParkins Being annoying is an overlooked skill or worse, a maligned quality. It is a shame, really, because annoying people are often the ones who get things done. Or achieve a win. Or draw attention to an issue.

Don’t confuse these people with your bog-standard melts. Those are the people who draw energy from getting negative reactions out of others because they don’t want to deal with their own feelings.

These are easily spotted in the wild by their identifiable cry of “I’m just joking!” or “Snowflakes! after they’ve said or done something nasty.

But there is virtue to being an absolute pest when it is driven by purpose. Somewhere along the way, “being annoying” and “being persistent” had their lines blurred, often on purpose by institutions that would very much like not to deal with the consequences of their own actions or do the thing they said they would.

Being annoying can be an art form. Last month a hotel in Dublin found itself hosting an art protest against hotels in Dublin. Two artists, Eve Wood and Aoife Ward, copped that the “cultural space” promised by developers as a condition of the hotel’s approval hadn’t actually been opened for use yet. So they asked the hotel’s owners to use the empty, unfinished concrete room to host an exhibition, and Con:Temporary Quarters went ahead, drawing attention to the apparent gap between what gets promised and what actually gets built.

Journalism is an entire industry that runs off annoying people, pestering others with questions they wouldn’t like to answer and chasing up things organisations would like to ignore. If you look at stories revealing abuse of power – the Tuam babies revelation, child abuse cover-ups, the FAI scandal – you’ll see they came about because journalists and their sources refused to be brushed off. The fingerprints of serial pests can be found on tribunals and investigations.

On an everyday level, these pests are the people writing letters to councils when roads haven’t been fixed. They are the friends who are excellent at writing emails quoting consumer law when their granny has been ripped off by a dodgy retailer. They are the refund-getters. They are the knowers of bylaws and policies and how they apply. They are lobbyists for local services. They are ones highlighting the shameful lack of support that families with additional needs children have in this country when the departments and services are trying to spin otherwise. They are the people who cannot be given the runaround.

They’re on the front page of local papers pointing

‘‘

Journalism isanentire industry thatrunsoff annoying people, pestering otherswith questions they wouldn’t liketo answer

at potholes and polluted waterways. They have manilla folders bursting with printed-out correspondence. They are not to be messed with.

Some pests are born, others are made. For decades I have studied one up close, hoping to understand where his drive and motivation comes from. So far I have gleaned two observations: 1. My dad is very good at understanding complex rules, laws, rights and entitlements.

2. He dislikes people or organisations who, in his words, “try to bulls**t their way around them”.

His stubbornness coupled with a complete lack of embarrassment when he knows he’s in the right have been underestimated by public servants at their own peril. I’m sure the department of transport employee who denied my schoolbus pass on the basis that I lived inside the qualifying 3km thought my father would give up and move on when he got the letter.

What he couldn’t have known is my father would go on to walk the entire distance to and from school, twice, with a surveyor’s wheel, to prove that it was actually a longer distance due to a lack of pedestrian access. He walked along busy side roads with a bright red little trundle wheel, mostly only used in primary school maths class, unperturbed about who might see him and what they thought. He was pursuing justice with every click, and that’s all that mattered. He even went to the extreme of getting a “certificate of competence”, stating he was clicky-clacky numberwheel qualified, just in case there was any doubt about the accuracy of the results.

I almost felt sorry for that public servant, even though he had tried to rip off a student (me) in a disadvantaged area by making us pay for a ¤400 bus pass on a technicality. He did not know peace for three months as the letters went back and forth, until the department realised there was no loophole they could use, no exception they could reach for.

The rules were the rules and my dad would just keep coming after them, a bureaucratic Terminator armed with a clickwheel.

His reputation has spread and now people come from all over the land to seek his help with banks trying to shirk obligations, councils trying to remove public parks, inflated utility charges and immigration hassles.

Sometimes I wonder if banks, governments and other powerful institutions know they have been put in their place by a man who types his emails with only two fingers. But that only makes his victories sweeter. ●

SeánMoncrieff RossO’Carroll-Kelly RoeMcDermott

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ClubLoosen, anentirelysoberraveinDublin

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Dogowners sharetheirfavouritepet-friendly cafes,pubsandrestaurants

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interestingarethe bitsIcouldn’t,or wouldn’t,putin amemoir’

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Index WeLove Fashion Beauty Food&Drink TVPicks&Listings

THE IRISH TIMES

Magazine

24-28 Tara St, Dublin 2 Email: magazine@irishtimes.com Display advertising: 01-5310978 Editor: Ciara Kenny On the cover: Emma Dabiri, pages 10-13.

Photograph by Joanne O’Brien

THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 3

Index

We Love . . .

AnOldSongRe-Sung

An Irish centenary celebration, live at the RDS next Saturday, and broadcast on RTÉ on October 30th

AnxiousPreoccupied

Joanne McNally’s label, selling (so far) trucker caps and oversized vegan leather bags: anxiouspreoccupied.com

Quake

Janet Moran’s play running from October 3rd-8th at the Samuel Beckett Theatre, Trinity College Dublin

WHAT’S HOT

VeloCheese

Belfast handmade mozzarella,stracciatella and scamorza

TarotTuesdays

Tarot readings at Street66 on Parliament Street in Dublin, on the second Tuesday of every month

IfTheseWigsCouldTalk

Panti brings her show to Galway Comedy Festival for one night only, October 28th

TwiggyMoore

New York-Irish designer making extremely fun partywear

Index

The electronic music club is now on Liberty Lane in Dublin 2

Kojaqueontour

Get booking for this Irish November tour celebrating the Irish artist’s upcoming album, Phantom of the Afters

Burberryhoundstooth patterntracksuit As worn by Barry Keoghan

Dublin Festival of History

Still an incredible array of events on for the next fortnight

Prátaí

Quality chips and dips at Cork’s Marina Market

IFIDocumentaryFestival

Plenty to see at the Irish Film Institute this weekend

Socialmediaretirement

The shift from online to off is becoming more frequent

Signature stripes for rainy-day fun Well known for her silk scarves and kimonos in vivid colours, patterns and stripes, multi-disciplinary artist Clare O’Connor has launched a second collection of sturdy, eco-friendly umbrellas. Following their debut last December, the new expanded range introduces a striking orange and yellow to the mix with a painting on the outside canopy and her signature contrast stripes on the inside to brighten up those wet, grey days. A classic walking stick-style umbrella is included and, like the first, is made in an RPET fabric from recycled water bottles, with handles in hand-turned solid wood. Cost ¤90 from clareoconnor.net A solo art show by O’Connor takes place in the Easter Snow Gallery in Naul, Co Dublin from December 2nd to the end of January 2024.

DEIRDREMcQUILLAN

Eclectic collectibles at Epic Fancy Mary Robinson’s mug on a mug? For those seeking a non-hokey Irish gift, the giftshop at Epic, the Irish Emigration Museum, has added a nifty new line to its eclectic stock. As well as Robinson’s line about Irish women “who instead of rocking the cradle, rocked the system”, there’s a cool Ned Kelly (“You can kill a man but not a legend”) one designed

by Maurice Murphy; Emma Patterson’s evocative Movement illustration; and the famine ship, Jeanie Johnston. All are available on mugs (¤16), sweatshirts (¤55), T-shirts (¤25), totes (¤15), and prints (¤20). Pop in after visiting Epic’s interactive digital museum in 200-year-old stone vaults, exploring Ireland’s impact on the world, or access its giftshop separately, at CHQ building in Dublin’s Docklands. epicchq.com DEIRDREFALVEY

4 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

Seán Moncrieff Get animated If you’re in the west over the next few days, it’s worth seeking out the seventh Galway Cartoon Festival, which runs until Wednesday. The international celebration of funny drawings, a sort of cartoon party, has a terrific line-up of guests, exhibitions and talks.

Guests include Vladimir Kazanevsky, a cartoonist refugee from Ukraine whose refugee status means he’s present via True Heroes Films’ documentary (commissioned by the Freedom Cartoonists Foundation) about confronting the invader through his art, and a videolink discussion.

Galway Cartoon Festival runs until October 4. galwaycartoonfestival.ie. notanotherwhitedress.ie DEIRDREMcQUILLAN

A5 notepad, ¤10, thecolourpop brunette.com

Put a sock on it Keep your toesies warm as autumn closes in with a pair of wool House Socks from The Irish Design Shop, manufactured in the town of Glenties in Co Donegal by third-generation sock makers the Breslin family.

The traditional flecked yarn adds to the warmth and durability of these socks, perfect for cosy lounging around the home, or extra comfort inside hiking boots.

Available in two sizes and 10 colours including dark mauve and berry red. ¤18 at irishdesignshop.com FILOMENAKAGUAKO

I get lots of feedback from readers, but this letter was the most interesting

Whether it’s positive or negative, it’s nice to get responses to this column. For the most part, that consists of comments on social media, which can be a reaction to what the column is about, or just a reaction to the headline.

More gratifying, and often touching, is when people go to the trouble of using old-fashioned snail mail. I’ve received some long, thoughtful letters, a book and a knitted hat for an elf. But among this group are some who, presumably, don’t have the time or feel the need to write a letter. Instead, they rip the page from The Irish Times Magazine and scrawl their message on the column itself. One included what could be described as a point-by-point rebuttal: they wrote “No!” and “Nonsense!” beside various paragraphs, though without explaining why.

One scribbled “PROPAGANDA”, and another circled words that I had used incorrectly.

This last piece of correspondence was, to me, the most interesting – and a bit embarrassing – because the correspondent was correct: I had used the wrong words. I had written “hoards” when I should have written “hordes”; I used “formally” instead of “formerly”. Relatively easy-to-make mistakes, but for someone who is writing professionally, not a great look. And it wasn’t like I didn’t know the differences between these words: I

‘‘

The correspondent was correct: I had used the wrong words. I had written ‘hoards’ when I should have written ‘hordes’

could see the mistakes immediately.

When they were pointed out. On the day I wrote the piece, I thought it was fine.

Because the spellcheck told me it was.

I just used it on what I’ve written so far.

It told me that “spellcheck” doesn’t need to be capitalised, but it had no problem with me not including a hyphen in “old fashioned”, even though most dictionaries do. (I corrected that). It monitors for spelling and grammar, but spellcheck will not find words which are miss used butt spelled rite.

You may be one of those people who feel that computer and smartphone writing aids are infantilising humans; that they may lead to a linguistic apocalypse.

And you may be correct. Repeated studies in the US and UK have found a dearth of spelling skills. In one, two-thirds of British people couldn’t spell the word “necessary”. An American academic did a detailed study of student assignments and constructed a list of the 20 most common mistakes. Actually, two lists: one for the post-spellcheck era and one for the time when the technology didn’t exist. For the students with access to computers, spelling was the fourth most common mistake. For the students who (presumably) had to write their assignments by hand, spelling didn’t feature in the list of mistakes at all.

But you may also be one of those people who are a bit more relaxed about these developments. We can’t turn back time.

Technology is embedded in our lives, and once you’re aware of the shortcomings, it can be useful. And the language we use has always changed and will continue to.

When your doctor sends you a frightening letter, you’d still hope that they spell the word “cholesterol” properly, but in so many other areas of communication, there seems to be a move towards a more informal use of language, where getting everything right seems to be less important; where we use acronyms and emojis instead of words. “Dear Ms McDonald” is being replaced by “Hi Mary Lou”. Spelling may become one of those life skills we feel we don’t need any more, or at least one that is less important: like sewing or the ability to read a paper map. It may be the case that in a century from now, written English could be radically different from the variety we use today.

In the meantime, it’s best to be kind and not too judgemental about the way other people express themselves. We are all human. We all make mistakes. The person who circled my incorrectly used words also spelled my name wrong.●

THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 5

I’ve never seen Sorcha so upset - and given my record as a husband, that’s a genuine achievement RossO’Carroll-Kelly I’ve never seen Sorcha so upset? And given my record as a husband, that’s a genuine achievement. She’s literally shaking with rage and whatever else is bubbling inside her, which is the reason I’m staying on the other side of the kitchen island.

“Our daughter ... is the SUV Avenger!” she goes – as if saying it over and over again is going to help her understand it better. “Our daughter ... is the SUV Avenger!”

Honor’s there, “You’re such a focking drama queen,” having clearly decided that attack is the best form of defence.

“You belong in the R&R.” Sorcha’s like, “I’ll never be able to show my face in Dalkey again.”

“Or Mount Merrion,” Honor goes, because – yeah, no – she was arrested on Cedarmount Road with a screwdriver in her hand and a trail of Range Rovers, Jeep Grand Cherokee jeeps and BMW X5s with burst tyres in her wake.

I’m there, “I honestly think you’re possibly overreacting. As in, a week ago, you thought the SUV Avenger was a hero.”

Sorcha goes, “I’m focking well aware of that, Ross.”

I’m there, “You wrote an opinion piece in The Irish Times saying that the world owed whoever was responsible a debt of gratitude.”

“That’s before I knew it was my own daughter,” she goes.

Honor’s there, “Oh my God, you’re such a focking hypocrite.”

“People are going to think I knew it was Honor when I wrote that orticle,” Sorcha goes.

I’m there, “No, they won’t,” even though they will. They so, so focking will.

The doorbell rings. Sorcha goes, “That’ll be Hennessy,” and I have to admit that I suddenly stort to breathe a little easier now that I know he’s on the case.

I’m there, “I’ll get the door,” and I go outside to answer it.

Hennessy does not look happy to see me. He just goes, “This focking family,” and borges past me, giving me a seriously

hord shoulder nudge that would pass for a tackle in the mind of Owen Farrell and his employers in the IRFU. “Hennessy!” Sorcha goes, practically curtsying to the dude. “Thank you so much for coming!”

Hennessy doesn’t say a word to her. He just fixes Honor with a look and goes, “It was you, huh?”

Honor’s there, “Yeah,” and then she shrugs. “So focking what?”

He’s like, “I just wanted to hear it from the mouth of the person who burst the four tyres of my Lexus outside Elm Pork Golf Club.”

“Obviously, we’re mortified,” Sorcha goes. “And we’ll pay for any damage, won’t we, Ross?”

I keep my mouth shut, not committing myself either way. It’s a trick that Hennessy actually taught me, and for a second I think I see him flash a look of pride at me.

He goes, “So you knew when you wrote that op-ed for The Irish Times that you were writing about your daughter?”

Sorcha’s there, “Oh my God, no way, Hennessy. If I’d known it was Honor, I never would have said those things. I would have said the exact opposite.”

Hennessy’s like, “Just so you know, absolutely nobody is going to believe

‘‘

You wrote an opinion piece in The Irish Times saying that the world owed whoever was responsible a debt of gratitude

6 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

that.”

Sorcha goes, “I’ll obviously ask them to take it down from the website.”

He’s there, “Don’t do that. You’ve got to double-down now.”

“In terms of?” Sorcha goes.

He’s like, “We’ve got to make out that your daughter was motivated by a genuine concern for the environment and the source of that concern was you.

We have to persuade the court that her mother’s fear for the future of the planet caused her so much anxiety that she was possessed by a type of temporary madness that caused her to do the things she did.”

Sorcha goes, “What are the chances of–” Hennessy’s like, “What?’

Sorcha’s there, “Well,” looking suddenly shifty, “the chorges being dropped and the whole thing being swept under the corpet.”

I was going to ask the same thing.

“None whatsoever,” Hennessy goes.

Honor’s there, “I probably should mention that I didn’t do it out of concern for the environment. I did it for a laugh.”

Hennessy turns on her then. He goes, “Do you want to end up in Oberstown?”

Me, Honor and Sorcha all stare at each other, just the sound of the word striking fear into us all. At the same time, the three of us go, “What’s Oberstown?”

Hennessy’s like, “Oberstown is a juvenile prison.”

“Oh my God!” Sorcha goes. “Oh my God! Oh my God! Oh my God!” I can see from Honor’s face that she’s suddenly worried too.

I’m there, “Dude, people like us don’t go to prison. What does that paperweight on your desk say? A good lawyer knows the law. A great lawyer knows the judge?”

Sorcha goes, “Hennessy, it’s not like she’s killed someone.”

Hennessy laughs, like he can’t believe her – I want to say – naivety?

Hennessy’s there, “The law was never intended to protect people. It was intended to protect private property rights.”

“Fine,” Honor goes, “I’ll go full Greta in the courtroom.”

Sorcha’s there, “And obviously we’ll reimburse people for any damage that Honor caused.”

I’m like, “Steady on, Sorcha,” because 200 cors multiplied by four tyres at, say, 200 snots per tyre adds up to, well, you do the math. “I wouldn’t go volunteering that kind of thing. You pay for a brand-new set of tyres and the next thing they’re telling you that your daughter damaged their gearbox or their fan belt has sounded rattly since the incident.

People take the piss. They’re notorious for it.”

Hennessy goes, “For once, your idiot husband is right.”

Sorcha’s there, “Hennessy, what are the chance of, well, I don’t know quite how to put this–” “Keeping your names out of the paper?” Hennessy goes.

Sorcha’s there, “Well, yes, that’s exactly what I was wondering. I wouldn’t like if they found out about this in Mount Anville.”

I’m like, “Yeah, no, especially as she did 30 or 40 grand’s worth of damage in the cor pork.”

“She’s a juvenile,” Hennessy goes, “so she can’t be identified in the media. But you know how these things work. Her name is going to be all over the internet.”

Sorcha’s there, “Oh! My literally!

God!” Hennessy goes, “I suggest you all go away for a few weeks until this thing blows over.” ● ListentoRossO’Carroll-Kelly readthiscolumnat irishtimes.com/podcasts

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What I Do

Dublin’s ‘Knife Man’ on the dying sharpening trade Denis Murphy goes door to door sharpening blades for restaurants, barbers, and Bono’s personal chef Very few people know me as Denis Murphy – they call me the “Knife Man”.

I’m 63 years old and I’ve been a door-to-door knife sharpener since 1992.

I’m from Rialto originally, then we moved out to Blanchardstown where my dad was a shop owner. I worked for Tesco in the UK for 10 years during the 1980s.

When I came back I had a couple of shops in Dublin city centre, and they weren’t going very well because of the times. So I decided I needed to do something to get some cash. I saw an article in a magazine about this knife sharpener franchise, Giltsharp, and I thought I’d do it for a

couple of months. Thirty-two years later here I am still doing it, but we’re all independent sharpeners now.

It’s a mobile service, so we go to the customer – mainly hotels, restaurants, delis, cafes, bars, food prep companies, hospitals and nursing homes. On the scissor sharpening side, I also do tailors and hairdressers.

Most of the work is down alleyways of loading bays. It’s all set up in the back of the van with a generator for power. I’ve had the same sandpaper-based machine for more than 30 years. It’s not a grindstone, so I take very little off the knife, which chefs love. After the sharpening is done on one wheel, it’s finished on the belt wheel, which is basically pressed cotton wool which I dress with wax, and that takes the burr off, polishes the knife and leaves it ready for use. I take pride in it, and it’s better than new.

I don’t use any gloves – you have to feel it. When I do a knife I just run it along my fingers to make sure the edge is right on it. I call them my testing fingers.

8 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

I visit places generally every four to six weeks, but some of the big food prep companies, I’m with them every week.

The majority have 10 to 20 knives that need sharpening, and I charge about €2.50per knife.

It’s not a glamorous job. This time of year it’s okay, but in the middle of winter, when you’re stood at the back of the van, it’s tough. I’ve got rheumatoid arthritis, which I don’t think is attributed to the work, but the hands are obviously sore.

Because the machine is vibrating all the time, by about two or three o’clock I’ve had enough. Even so, I love it. No two days are the same. A lot of the chefs aren’t just customers, they’re friends now, and some of them I’ve been dealing with for 30 years.

Bono’s chef heard of me, and she asked me to come in to sharpen her knives. She cooks for Bono and Ali, but a lot of the time it’s for when they’re entertaining guests.

I had one guy who was doing a martial arts exhibition and he was using a big sword from Japan to cut up melons and pineapples. We warn everybody how sharp the blades will be, especially when we do their knives for the first time.

It’s not a very attractive profession and it can be dangerous. I’ve had people come in over the years and I’ve trained them up. The wheel can be a bit frightening, spinning around 3,000 revs a minute. If you’re not alert 100 per cent of the time, you could catch the knife in the machine and it throws up into you.

Denis Murphy: ‘It’s a mobile service, so we go to the customer – mainly hotels, restaurants, delis, cafes, bars, food prep companies, hospitals and nursing homes. On the scissor sharpening side, I also do tailors and hairdressers.’

Photograph: Dara Mac Dónaill Luckily I’ve never had an accident.

This niche trade seems to be dying out.

Ten years ago there were maybe six or eight of us working around Dublin, now I only know of three. Covid had an impact.

Because I was doing the hospital canteens and the food prep companies that could work through Covid, I survived.

But the demand is there. I’m busier now than I have been in 30 years.

It is upsetting because it is a good business, and it’s hard to convince somebody that they can make a good wage by going around sharpening knives. The young people coming up now, they’re interested in all the IT stuff.

I have a grandson who is 15 and was hoping to pass it on to him but he has no interest whatsoever. So I’ll try to sell it in a few years when I’m ready to retire. ● In conversation with Conor Capplis

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Changing how we think about beauty In her new book, Disobedient Bodies, writer and academic Emma Dabiri interrogates modern beauty ideals, and the contradictory expectations they places on women

Róisín Ingle

I

n Emma Dabiri’s new book, Disobedient Bodies, an essay on beauty and on society’s unrealistic, often contradictory, expectations of women, she ponders her own unapologetic love of glamour. She writes of the lotions and potions that line her shelves, her commitment to the drama of a red lip. We’re talking, on Zoom, during London Fashion Week. She hasn’t had time to change out of the outfit she wore to the show she was attending and is looking fabulous in a frothy pink and black confection. In the essay she explains how she tries to incorporate as much glamour and “magical fairy-tale energy” into the everyday as possible, and she’s exuding plenty of it this afternoon.

The Dublin-raised, England-based author of Don’t Touch My Hair and What White People Can Do Next will be familiar to readers for her thought-provoking reflections on social history, black feminism, racism, colonialism and African history and traditions. Disobedient Bodies, commissioned by The Wellcome Collection as a companion text to their exhibition on the Cult of Beauty, is a thoughtful read on western society’s beauty ideals and how we might challenge them. These demands, she writes, are “reductive, tyrannical and commercially entangled, imposed upon us by oppressive systems

and further strengthened by our conditioned self-loathing”.

There is joy there too, it should be noted.

“I was writing the book very much from the perspective of somebody that loves beautiful clothes and make-up and glamour,” she explains. “I’ve been obsessed with glamour, for as long as I can remember, from when I was a small child, but I still don’t necessarily know that the way I look is particularly conventional. I’m often dressed up in a way that looks theatrical.

So, it’s not necessarily conforming to the conventions of the world around me.”

I tell her that parts of her essay reminded me of the much-quoted monologue in Greta Gerwig’s Barbie movie, which draws attention to the many contradictions of being a woman as delivered by America Ferrera’s character Gloria: “You have to be thin, but not too thin. And you can never say you want to be thin. You have to say you want to be healthy, but also you have to be thin. You have to have money, but you can’t ask for money because that’s crass. You have to be a boss, but you can’t be mean. You have to lead, but you can’t squash other people’s ideas. You’re supposed to love being a mother, but don’t talk about your kids all the damn time.”

Dabiri, a mother of two boys, hasn’t seen Barbie yet but she’s reflected a lot on the unwinnable, futile aspects of a certain kind of womanhood. In her essay she harks back to her childhood and teenage years growing up in Rialto in Dublin – when you

10 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

had to be “hot” but “hot without notions” – getting ready for nights out with her friends, all Heather Shimmer lipstick and fake tan. “Yes, I wore it too,” she laughs.

On average, women spend up to “four and half hours a week, ten days a year, or around two years over a lifetime, in front of a mirror”. She cites one report showing the cosmetic surgery market globally was valued at $55.68 billion in 2022 and is projected to grow from $57.67 billion in 2023 to $75.20 billion by 2030. But at the same time she revels in those teenage Friday night gatherings, paying what author Zadie Smith called “the beauty tax”, where there was “magic, transformation, ritual and a sorority”.

Dabiri is asking a huge question: “How might we possibly reconcile the reality of the joys and pleasures we can find in our bodies, and in rituals of beautification – as well as the whole sphere of female knowledge bound up in it – with the age-old and sometimes fraught feminist discourses, and the justified pushback against an overemphasis on our looks as not only a drag on our time, but a form of control? Especially now, at a time when it feels like these pressures are accelerating, not falling away?”

We’re living in a hyper-visual culture when young women (and young men) are under more surveillance than ever and women, in particular, are pitted against each other. Dabiri loves fashion, and has been glad to see in recent years how ✒

Emma Dabiri, a mother of two boys, hasn’t seen Barbie yet but she’s reflected a lot on the unwinnable, futile aspects of a certain kind of womanhood.

Photograph:Joanne O’Brien

THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 11

✒ there is much more diversity on the catwalks, not just ethnicities, but sexuality and body shape. “However, as I make very clear in the book, I don’t think diversity is the solution to the transformation of our understanding of beauty,” she says.

“Because I feel it is diversity of the same system that we have, when what I’m calling for is more of an interrogation of that very system itself rather than an expansion of it. I’m not saying more traditional forms of beauty are immaterial. I’m just saying the emphasis that we place on them is excessive, and we could prioritise other things, as well.”

She continues: “Even with all the diversity and inclusion, it’s not like people seem to feel any better ... actually, people seem under more pressure. We can credit social media with bringing in that revolution of representation, where more people see themselves reflected ... but social media is also responsible for that visual culture which previously has never existed to this extent.” We’ve never been as aware of our faces and how we look than at this moment in history, she points out. “Like with this Zoom call, I’m trying not to look at myself, but I keep doing it.”

Her view is that “ocularcentrism”, a Eurocentric bias that ranks vision over other senses in western culture, has helped to inform the shallowness of the beauty regime “as well as contributing to the overemphasis given to visually racialised characteristics such as the colour of our skin, our facial features and hair texture. Sight has been held since classical times as the ‘noblest of the senses’.

I just assumed this was the universal norm but from studying other cultures I found there are other ways of thinking about this ... I discovered that even the idea of beauty as this physical kind of singular entity is culturally situated ... the global western idea of what constitutes beauty is dominant.”

The daughter of a Nigerian father and Irish mother, Dabiri was 19 when she left Dublin for London to study for a degree in African studies and postcolonial theory.

Through these studies she first encountered the Ifa tradition and mythology from her African Yoruba ancestry, which subverts some western notions of beauty.

In Yoruba cosmology, Oshun is the goddess of beauty, divinity and femininity.

There’s a line from one of the Yoruba orikis (praise songs) describing her glowingly as “a corpulent woman who cannot be embraced around the waist”.

“I can’t think of a beauty ideal further from the purge-and-punishment food culture that I grew up with in Ireland,” Dabiri writes. Growing up in a far less culturally diverse Ireland, she experienced racism from a young age which was instrumental to her pursuing an academic path. But racism wasn’t the only oppression. There’s a striking moment in the essay when she recalls being 18 and returning to Ireland having lived away for a couple of years in Atlanta where, enjoying the southern food in that city, she had gained some weight.

She was at a pub in Dublin when a man her own age pushed past on the way to to the bar, muttering “get out of my way, you fat f*****g n****r”. By that stage, she was largely immune to the N-word, she writes,

Emma Dabiri, daughter of a Nigerian father and Irish mother, was 19 when she left Dublin for London to study for a degree in African studies and post-colonial theory. Left: Emma in Dublin, age five.

Photograph: Joanne O’Brien

but it being combined with “fat” made her disgusted with herself: “Well, I can’t control anybody calling me the N-word, but nobody is going to call me fat again!”

“A large part of it was being from Ireland,” she says, although she adds that she thinks it might be different here now.

“The normalisation of women eating very little, and being painfully thin, was very entrenched there, more so than anywhere else I’ve ever lived.” (Dabiri, who now lives in Kent, has also lived in the US and Japan

12 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

among other places). “So, I think I was just very conditioned by that. I aspired to be very thin, as did everyone I knew. And then I feel like that incident gave me the quote-unquote, ‘incentive’ to keep going”.

Dabiri asks us to consider the notion of “pretty privilege”, where women are advantaged because of their looks, and quotes a recent Economist article “The Economics of Thinness”: “It is economically rational for ambitious women to try as hard as possible to be thin ... The penalty for an obese woman is significant, costing her about 10 per cent of her income.”

The blurb for Dabiri’s book asks, “What part of your beautiful self were you taught to hate?” For her, the incident in the pub sparked a decade of restricting her food intake and “disordered eating”, although she was careful to never let her weight go below a certain number on the scale.

“I’m quite a petite person naturally ... but my body shape is definitely different from the body shape of most white Irish people. I have a bum and I have thighs.”

She laughs and says these days, when there are people who have surgical procedures to achieve bigger bottoms, having a larger arse “sounds like a boast, but that’s not the context I grew up in. In the book I write about my thighs, they were the issue.

The aspiration was to have a thigh gap ... the thing is I could be six stone and not have a thigh gap – I’ve never been six stone

for the record – I could never have that because my body is not that shape. Different ethnicities have different body shapes, but I didn’t know that and I was really perturbed by that aspect of my physicality.

“In African culture, there is definitely not the same imperative to shrink your body ... I’ve even had older Nigerian people just be quite pitying towards me for being little. ‘Oh, it’s not your fault,’ that kind of thing,” she laughs.

How can women be more disobedient in the face of this pervasive pressure to conform to certain standards? “There’s not necessarily a one size fits all approach to this,” she says. “I think people have to work things out for themselves.” Dabiri’s disobedience comes in different forms.

She threw away her weighing scales on her 30th birthday, for example. As the author of Don’t Touch My Hair, the decision to leave her hair in its “natural” state was a big part of working things out for herself.

At first, not straightening or otherwise styling her hair was “deeply, deeply uncomfortable”, but when she pushed through that discomfort, “I actually made a lot of discoveries about myself and my appearance. When I first went natural with my hair, I was very militant ... I wouldn’t do anything that was in any way like straightening it or making it like flat or making it go down.” Now, after years of having “natural” hair, she is more relaxed, straightening her hair if she feels like it.

She found a similar thing happened when she stopped shaving her armpit and leg hair. Eventually, she discovered she didn’t really like having hairy legs and started shaving them again, but she also realised that she was fine with armpit hair which,

‘‘

Ican’tcontrol anybodycallingme theN-word,but nobodyisgoingto callmefatagain!

spending time in nature, walking in the woods or on the beach near her home. She practices transcendental meditation and swims regularly. “I’m untidy and disorganised and that needs to be dealt with, but my workspace is painted a particular colour which is dramatic and yet soothing. I’m super sensitive to smells so I burn a lot of incense, but I’m very intentional about it.

My focus going forward is deepening my spiritual practice, and spending more time trying to connect with and understand the environment around me.”

When I ask about her latest projects, she tells me she has a novel on the go. What’s it about? “I haven’t told anybody yet,” she says. “I had actually started a novel when I got this commission, and I was trying to do both simultaneously, but I couldn’t. Now that this [Disobedient Bodies] has finished,

I want to focus on the novel and try to get that in shape. It’s currently satire, because the world is f***ing ludicrous, so writing in that genre allows you to really go with the ridiculousness of the world.”

There are lots of exciting “very big” things about to happen, none of which she says she can talk about. (Honestly, I try my best to persuade her, but she remains charmingly tight-lipped. But earlier this week, a few days after the interview, she announced on Instagram that she is to join the Guardian as a columnist focusing on Ireland. “We have an incredible story to tell and I’m super honoured to have this opportunity to craft my version of it,” she wrote). She does say the one-woman play based on her life, Throwing Shapes, is in production and might possibly be staged next year. She’ll continue to travel back to Ireland occasionally, and does not rule out making it her base at some point. “The idea of never living in Ireland again makes me feel very sad. So I hope that I live there again, at some point in my life.”

Earlier when I asked her age, I was surprised that she didn’t want to answer.

(You can google it, if you are desperate to know.) She explains she hates people often tell her she looks younger than she actually is, or say “oh you look so good for your age”, which she finds irritating. Isn’t it a compliment? “It actually makes me feel really insecure,” she says, because it implies there is something wrong with ageing. “I’m going to age, you’re going to age, we’re all going to age and [by complimenting people for looking younger]

you’re further entrenching the idea that there is a stigma attached to that. My motivation in writing the book and talking about ageing and talking about beauty is that I don’t like it when people over emphasise physical appearance, and looking youthful, because what about when that changes? Are you worthless then? Do you have no further contribution to make?”

I can’t envisage a time when Dabiri is not making a contribution. She’s quite the powerhouse I tell her, listing a few of her other achievements. She has presented a number of television and radio documentaries, including BBC Radio 4’s Journeys into Afrofuturism and BBC Four’s Britain’s Lost Masterpieces. She is on the board of the Hugh Lane Gallery in Dublin, and was recently appointed a fellow of the Royal Society of Literature.

Is she ambitious? “It’s interesting because people’s perception of you is often so different from how you feel about yourself,” she laughs. “I have quite a singular sense of purpose. I have things that I feel compelled to say and to write about, and that’s really my guiding force. I want to honour that and be true to that and push that as far as it can go.” ● Disobedient Bodies by Emma Dabiri is published by The Wellcome Collection. The Cult of Beauty exhibition runs from October 26th to April 28th, 2024; see wellcomecollection.org

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on women, can be a provocation.

“Like, loads of people are fine with it, but there’s still a notable amount of people who are vocally opposed, people go crazy,” she says with the air of someone who does not care what people think about her underarm situation. “The other day I decided to trim my armpit hair and started to shave but I got bored, so the armpit hair is a little bit shorter but still there. I was doing a very glamorous photo shoot, and it was quite apparent. I wouldn’t necessarily feel self-conscious, but I’d be aware I was one of a small handful of people rocking armpit hair.”

She prefers not being “super polished”.

She’s fine with chipped nails and sloppy lip liner. She does not want to be prescriptive about how women can become more “unruly”, but who does she think lives or lived in a disobediently beautiful way?

“One of the first pieces I ever wrote starting out was about beauty. It was called My Body is Not An Apology. I quoted Sinéad O’Connor in that piece, because she was saying something about how she loved her beautiful body. It was so authentic and genuine, I was really struck by it. There are so few celebrities I can think of that would have said that in the way that she did, where it just seemed she was genuinely comfortable with her appearance.”

Ultimately, she wants women to reclaim beauty for themselves in whatever form they like, “as a source of nourishment, not just a snack”. Beauty, she says, is something you do, not just something you are.

For Dabiri the pursuit of beauty means

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THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 13

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Tickled pink with a kitchen makeover Vintage lover Katrina Carroll took inspiration from a soft pink 1980s leather trench coat when doing up her kitchen. Her husband’s counsel was also crucial

W

hat does your husband think about the colour, was how one friend reacted, when Katrina Carroll first showed her around in her reimagined kitchen. Her pal made the outdated presumption that, as a man, he wouldn’t be down with the pink.

“My husband chose it,” Carroll says proudly. Better known to her almost 54,000 followers on Instagram as @VintageIrishKat, she shares her semi-detached home in Dublin 12 with husband Adam and their two daughters, Nainsi (8) and Bonnie (5).

“When we first moved in I had wanted a cottage-style kitchen, but seven years on I wanted something more modern that showed a bit more of my personality,” she says. “I didn’t want a Barbie pink, she says. “I wanted something soft and subtle, a shade that would add warmth to the space.”

And it does. The shade in question is DH Blossom and part of the Dulux Heritage range – a timeless, luxury colour palette of fittingly classic hues with a modern twist. She used a hard-wearing and wipeable eggshell finish, which she had spray-painted on the cabinets to give them a sleek and even application.

“Adam first suggested the pink because he thought it would work really well with the existing green tiles on the splashback,” she recalls. “I said, you’re right, you’re never right, and so we went with it,” she laughs.

The Dulux Heritage Blossom is paired with Dulux Heritage Marble White walls, a warm bone-colour that works harmoniously with it. “It completely reframes the space,” she says, but the pink wasn’t Carroll’s first choice. She had originally selected a rich gold colour, namely Dulux Heritage Brushed Gold, one that her husband didn’t think would work in the space. But because she had first talked to a colour consultant at Dulux Heritage, a free service offered by the paint company, she was confident in her final choice. She also bought tester pots and tested several options to get a real sense of how each

Kat is a vintage queen and when painting her kitchen took inspiration from a 1980s pink leather coat, she felt the DH Blossom shade worked well with the tiles that were already there would look on the walls and how natural and artificial light would affect each.

The colour DH Blossom, a soft pastel pink, was also inspired by several items of clothing in her vintage store, Preloved by Shay and Jo, which Carroll runs online and from a small shop in her back garden.

Preloved by Shay and Jo was named after her “very stylish” parents. She admits the pink leather coat is one she is finding difficult to sell as she wants to hold on to it herself – an occupational hazard of the business she’s in.

“I’ve always had a love of vintage, I love

14 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

the fact that it has a story,” she says. Lots of vintage pieces can be seen dotted around the home too.

She also loves the sustainable aspect of buying pre-loved pieces of clothing and furniture, and is a frequent visitor to the charity shops in her locale and online, pairing together looks for very little.

When first mooted, the kitchen colour divided the household. Her older daughter favoured blue. But once they saw the reveal, all were thrilled.

The pigment works well during the day and at night, and adds a layered look to

the hardest working room in the house.

It also brings in the full spectrum of Carroll’s own colour-drenched psyche.

Primary pops and intriguing accent pieces are evident on every surface, starting with a lip vase into which she’s put fresh roses.

Above the cream-coloured six-burner range oven is a signed print of 1960s supermodel Twiggy, something she acquired on eBay, which has been given a pop-art treatment by framing it in a monochrome striped frame.

There are tin flower pots in the window

that had been relegated to the playroom where they had become repositories for the girls colouring pencils. They are now filled with plants.

The new paintscape really chimes with the Scandi blonde woods of her dining table and cane chairs – a style she had long admired. “They are my pride and joy,” she says. “I came across them one day in a skip, around the corner from the house.”

Luckily her husband was working from home that day, so she called him to ask him to drive around the corner immediately to pick them up. He obliged, but asked

what they were going to do with their existing seats.

“To make room for the new chairs I put the existing seating for sale online and had found a buyer for them in a matter of days,” she explains. “I also hope the experience will teach the girls to be more sustainable in the way that they live.”

The couple have been married for over a decade. They first met in Australia, where she shared a house with a bunch of Dublin girls in the seaside suburb of St Kilda, Melbourne.

He had been living next door with a

gang of lads from London. “He knocked on the door to borrow the vacuum cleaner and the rest is history,” she laughs.

They had a vintage-inspired wedding, and bought their smart semi in 2016.

Since then they’ve been decorating and refurbishing it bit by bit. She says the pink kitchen has really reinvigorated the space, and that paint is a canny way to get a brand new kitchen feel on a budget.

“I want it to inspire people to use more colour and to be brave in their choices. It is a colour not just limited to the girls,” she laughs.

Explorethefullrangeofcoloursand recommendedcolourschemesonDulux Heritageduluxheritage.ie/en/colours

THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 15

Letting loose while keeping it together At Club Loosen, an entirely sober rave in Dublin, the lack of alcohol only serves to enhance the mood

16 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

Rebecca Daly

O

n a sunny evening at The Complex in Dublin 7, the faint thump of techno can be heard from the blue and red building. Although not unusual for a Saturday evening, the party here kicks off a bit earlier than most, as doors open at 8pm. Inside, people move to the beat of DJ Mini Kimono. There is nothing out of the ordinary as far as club nights in the city go – except for the fact that these ravers are all completely sober.

Here for Club Loosen, an entirely sober rave, the lack of alcohol certainly does not put a dampener on the mood. The club may as well have been called dance like no one is watching, as everyone inside – staff and this writer included – is swaying, stepping or full-on grooving to the mixes.

From the very start, there are people on the dance floor. Others line the walls, sipping on mocktails and building up the courage to jump in. People trickle in on their own, in duos or in bigger groups.

There is a vast range of ages and styles.

Despite this, everyone bunches together in front of the DJ’s decks, united by the music.

At the front, 23-year-old Nicholas Rooney is trying to learn how to shuffle – a dance move that involves moving your feet

‘‘

Thisisstillclubbing, butwe’remakinga choice.We’renot goingtotakealcohol, we’renotgoingto takedrugs–Paul Walsh,organiserofClub Loosen

back and forth without lifting them off the ground – holding up a tutorial on his phone for others to see. Speaking to The Irish Times outside, he says: “My goal for today is to shuffle and have a good time and to be as comfortable as possible in my own skin, which is happening so far.”

The Dubliner doesn’t drink much – he might have a couple of beers every six months – and so, for him, Club Loosen is about inclusion. “When I go out, it’ll just be me having glasses of water with my friends who are drinking. It’s a little bit more difficult to go on nights out and feel comfortable, but if it’s a sober rave, everyone is doing the exact same thing. There’s no peer pressure for you to drink and I really enjoy that,” he says.

With Rooney is 28-year-old Elvira Oredein. “There is a huge issue with addiction in Dublin and, you know what, when I first heard about this sober rave, I thought, ‘This is another wave coming to Ireland,’” she says.

“People who feel like they’re on the fringes, who don’t so much want to feel like s**t the next day, who don’t so much want to take drugs or take anything, [they] can come here and feel safe. It’s a safe space.”

The night, for Oredein, was an opportunity to “be one with the music and just empty out all my other troubles and just dance it out”.

Nuala Billington, who is also 28, says the

rave is an “eye opening experience”. She gave up drinking in recent months and found there were so little events in the city centre for those who are sober, sobercurious or who simply did not want to drink on a given night.

“It’s really great to have something like this. It’s quite an experience to be out there dancing and to not have a drink in your hand or extra ‘buzz’ to keep you going. You just really develop that yourself,” she says.

Despite Ireland’s notorious drinking culture, Billington says she’s noticed a shift in attitudes towards going sober: “I know it’s very stereotypical, but there is definitely a huge party culture and alcohol is a big component of that. But I think people have more of an awareness of conversations around mental health and the bigger picture, and I’ve noticed a lot more people are sober curious.”

As the night goes on inside, the music interchanges between techno and remixes of popular songs. There are drinks, bags and jackets left to the side, untouched – such is the safe vibe of the rave.

Paul Walsh, Club Loosen’s organiser, is training to be a psychotherapist and has always been interested in the mind. He had his first drink when he was 12 and has gone through periods of not drinking since then.

It was when he moved to Berlin for a year in 2015 at the age of 26, however, ✒

THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 17

✒ that he really began to experience a high in the club without needing to drink or take drugs.

He went out “pretty much” every weekend while living in the city. At first, dancing in a club sober felt a little bit awkward. “When you first start, you’re just not there yet. You haven’t loosened up.

You may be experiencing a little bit of anxiety,” he says.

These feelings shouldn’t get in the way of your rhythm, however. “Feeling a little bit awkward, feeling a little bit of anxiety is not necessarily a problem. It’s actually possible just to allow those to be there and not feeling that they are a problem.

“And, then, I suppose, you just actually step into the process of ‘Okay, there’s really nice music happening so I’m just going to start moving a little bit’ and then

‘‘

Iwouldhavenever evenknownthere was[a]sober communityfor peopleintheir20s orforwomen especially

you can connect to the music.”

After a while, Walsh says, when you check back in with your body, you will feel like your state is “really sweet” and your energy levels will increase.

“Within an hour, maybe an hour and a half, by being committed to dancing to the music and connecting to my body, I experience myself as being ‘there’. What I mean by ‘there’ is a place where I’m present, my energy feels great and I could dance expressively and talk to anyone.”

Walsh noticed his buzz continued on through the next day, as he had no hangover or come down to deal with.

This euphoric sensation led him to create Club Loosen.

His intentions are not meant to be judgmental towards those who choose to drink, and he understands that the standards for the club night needs to be as high as they would be for any other rave, with great DJs and the right venue.

“This is still partying. This is still clubbing, but we’re making a choice. We’re actually acknowledging that we’re not going to take alcohol, we’re not going to take drugs to loosen our inhibition.

“In a sense, [there is] some psychological skill that we’re actually going to develop here and when we do do that, we can have experiences in nightclubs where our states of being [are] joyful, really positive, loads of fun and we did it without taking substances,” he says.

When asked about having fun without

drinking and how some feel it’s not possible, Walsh laughs. Going out sober is not effortless, he says, and it does require “some element of warming up”.

Those who feel they cannot go out sober probably “haven’t fully committed to allowing themselves to have the experience they could”.

“They may have been in spaces before when, after 15 minutes, they’re like, ‘Here, f**k this. I’m out of here.’ I would say to that person, you may have needed to stay for 90 minutes before you got to this place where you’re not in your shell any more.”

Lauren McNulty, a 27-year-old from Drimnagh in Dublin 12, has been sober for five months. She made the choice to quit drinking based on an “accumulation of things”.

“I would have been like, in the back of my head, ‘Am I getting enjoyment from this? Does this benefit me in any way?’

Then, when we’d go out, I’d be feeling really, really bad the next day. I’d have anxiety,” she says.

McNulty felt then that drinking was her only form of socialising. Now she is sober, however, her social life hasn’t stopped. In fact, it hasn’t even slowed down. She has gone to concerts, where she hasn’t been “queuing at bars the whole time”. She went on holiday to Mexico, where she could be “up dancing”, go to bed at “a reasonable hour” and get to see the sun rise as well.

She has also created an Instagram

18 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

account, @sober_gal_in_dublin, to share her sober story and connect with other like-minded young people in Ireland.

Through this, she has met many groups who organise meet-ups, sea swims and other events.

“Before I researched, I would have never even known there was [a] sober community for people in their 20s or for women especially who just want to go out and do things. Even if they’re not sober, they just want to do something that isn’t surrounded with alcohol.”

McNulty says the reaction was mixed when she told people she was going sober.

“You always get that thing like, ‘Are you pregnant? Are you on medication? Oh, where are you going tomorrow?’

“It’s not anyone’s fault. It’s just ingrained in [people] to make conversation.”

Friends and family have been “great”, especially her boyfriend, who tries her drinks first to make sure they’re nonalcoholic because the order can sometimes get mixed up. McNulty has even noticed her friends and colleagues are considering giving up alcohol too.

The biggest challenge in going sober, she says, is “always going to be yourself”.

“It’s going to be hard. It’s being able to learn to have the patience with yourself and that it’s not just a quick fix, it’s a lifelong journey,” she says.

McNulty would like to see more nonalcoholic options on the shelves or in bars.

She’s tried the likes of Peroni 0.0% but

‘People who don’t want to feel like s**t the next day can come here and feel safe’: Club Loosen regulars Elvira Oredein and Nicholas Rooney.

Photograph: Rebecca Daly loves a cocktail and would like to see better mocktails on menus that aren’t just “an orange juice and a cranberry juice mixed together”. She would love to see more non-alcoholic alcopop cans, which are “targeted to the younger generation rather than just someone that wants to not drink and drive”.

In March, Dublin’s only alcohol-free bar, The Virgin Mary, closed its doors on Capel Street. This was not down to a lack of interest in the concept, founder Vaughan Yates said at the time, but due to increased costs. He believes there is still a demand for non-alcoholic drinks, he told Newstalk, and, as a result, The Virgin Mary is now a mobile service, serving people at events around the country.

For young people, there certainly seems to be a gap in the market in our capital city to serve young people who are sober, sober curious or simply looking for an alcohol-free evening that Club Loosen and these groups are trying to fill.● Club Loosen returns next Saturday October 7th for it’s third sober club night from 8pm-midnight. Follow @club_loosen on Instagram or see thecomplex.ie

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Bone-appétit: dining with dogs Dog owners share some of their favourite dog-friendly cafes, pubs and restaurants around Ireland

Joanne Cronin

I

am the proud and very besotted owner of Clara, a nearly eight-year-old Jack Russell. We adopted her from the DSPCA in September 2020 during one of the pandemic lulls, and three years later she’s a core part of the family. In fact, I’d even say she’s the centre of the family.

Clara goes out with us a lot, both for meals and drinks, and we are fortunate to live in Dublin 8 where there is a large

20 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

number of dog-friendly venues. She’s a well-behaved dog generally, but it took quite a bit of effort – and a hell of a lot of dog treat bribery – to get to this point.

Clara first needed several months to settle in fully with us after the DSPCA inspector handed her over, and then extra attention to get used to going places without barking up a storm.

Although I had grown up on a farm surrounded by working dogs (my father still proudly wields a picture of infant me asleep in my pram with a border collie curled up protectively alongside me), there’s a big difference between having a dog in the open countryside and managing an energetic Jack Russell in the urban environment.

With Clara, we mainly stick to the casual end of the market, such as cafes and pubs, which is where the bulk of dog-friendly hospitality is to be found.

Bringing out a dog means always being on alert, and it’s often nice to leave the dog at

home and enjoy our meal without that worry. However, Clara has occasionally ventured upmarket, including a highlight trip to Galway’s Michelin-starred Aniar, which has one table available for canine guests. I’m both relieved and glad to report that she didn’t make a holy show of us, and was even treated to some special dishes of her own from the kitchen.

This prompted me to think about dog-friendly hospitality around the island.

Were my experiences with Clara typical? I contacted fellow dog lovers and asked them to share their experiences and thoughts. Based on the answers, it’s clear that there is a demand for more dog-friendly venues where four-legged guests are just as welcome as their humans, while also highlighting that people are very conscious of their duties as responsible dog owners when bringing their dogs out.

JamieVincent,Belfast Jamie Vincent lives in Belfast with his

dog is: “Do your research. Know which venues allow dogs indoors versus outdoors. Choose environments that are welcoming to your dog.”

husband and their two chihuahuas. At 14 years, Nacho is the elder statesman, having been with the couple since he was a pup. In recent times Nacho has been revitalised by the arrival of rescue dog Winnie, who Jamie estimates is three to four years old.

Jamie happily admits that the couple’s dining-out decisions are based on the dogs, who they consider to be a huge part of the family. “The hospitality industry in Northern Ireland is getting better all the time at welcoming dogs. Smart venues see the value in attracting visitors and families by allowing them to include their canine family members. They are moving with the times.”

There is an active community of dog owners in Northern Ireland who use social media to share their favourite spots and provide feedback. At last count, the Facebook group “Dog Friendly Everything Northern Ireland” had circa 26,400 members, and Jamie frequently uses it to

It’s clear there is a demand for more dog-friendly venues where four-legged guests are as welcome as their human.

Above right: Cava Bodega in Galway serves up classic and modern tapas, while well-behaved pooches also get their own treats. Photograph: Getty Images source tips for their next trip.

When asked what makes a quality dog-friendly venue, Jamie says: “Venues that acknowledge the dog, as opposed to simply paying lip service. Places such as Ownies Bar and Bistro in Carrickfergus really go the extra distance by delivering bowls of water and little treats of roast beef or sausages to the dogs. We are loyal customers to venues that give us and the dogs a good experience.” Among the many spots in Northern Ireland that Jamie names are Pug Uglys Bar in Belfast, Saltwater Brig in Kircubbin and Hillside in Hillsborough.

Jamie’s top tip for eating out with your

SarahHanrahan,Dublin Sarah is a woman with a huge grá for bull breeds, having been the owner of beloved Stanley for years until his recent death.

Along with her husband Sean, she made the decision to get another bull breed, this time choosing to rescue Staffy-cross Tony from a kill shelter in Northern Ireland, where he was scheduled for euthanisation.

Initially nervous in his new home, Tony is now happily settled, although Sarah expects he will always be somewhat affected by his early experiences.

“My day is often planned around Tony, work permitting. Perhaps a coffee in a cafe, then a walk to Smithfield Market, followed by a cosy pint in one of our locals.

Barber’s Bar in Grangegorman is extremely welcoming to dogs, even providing a doggy watering station with a tongue-in-cheek warning to ‘drink responsibly’.”

A firm advocate for our capital city, Sarah reckons that she has close to 200 dog-friendly Dublin venues listed on her Instagram account @i_come_undone. “I only list venues that allow dogs indoors. I don’t consider venues that are outdoors-only to be truly dog friendly, especially when uncovered.” She notes an increase in the number of places leaving treats or poop bags on the counter for dogs, or even going so far as to offer dog food menus. She rates venues such as the legendary Fumbally, the delicious Shouk in Drumcondra, Bonobo in Smithfield, the Vintage Inn in Irishtown and BrewDog in the Docks.

“There can be mixed attitudes to the bull breeds, with some people apprehensive, and others happy to see the breeds when well-controlled with responsible owners. If taking your dog out for the first

time, my advice is to keep it casual and listen to your dog. Leave when they have had enough and be mindful of dog-on-dog etiquette. Not every dog wants to talk to every dog and human.”

EamonBarrett,Waterford Eamon is the owner of Nero, an eight-year-old French Bulldog, and Henry the Chihuahua. Nero’s sibling Louis died last Christmas after a short illness and Eamon is still feeling the loss. “Louis was a dream dog to take out and about, whereas Nero is more rambunctious, although he has quietened somewhat since the loss of Louis.”

In contrast to Jamie and Sarah, Eamon feels that the hospitality industry in Waterford and the south is not yet at the same level of dog friendliness as reported in Dublin and Belfast. “I mostly don’t try to bring the dogs out when eating due to limitations in choice. Loko in Ardkeen is one of the few local spots to offer a full indoor dining experience. Owners Jamie and Nichola are big dog lovers, and it shows in their welcoming attitude in Loko.” Also getting a good mention is the outdoor area at GIY Waterford, Arch Coffee, Wich+Brew Coffee and the 360 Cookhouse in Dungarvan.

In contrast, Eamon speaks about his experiences travelling around Europe, where hospitality is much more welcoming to “man’s best friend”. “I’ve seen a couple get up from their table at a high-end restaurant in Vienna followed by their husky emerging from under the table. He had been so well-behaved that I had had no idea he was there,” he says.

“The hospitality industry is missing a genuine opportunity. Many people consider their dog to be a core part of the family, and in some cases, people will have spent thousands of euro on a pup. They want that dog to be an integrated family member and to be able to more fully share the family experience when out and ✒

THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 21

✒ about. The casual end of the market is

ered outdoor space, perfect for a stop after a walk around the harbour.

catching up, but the higher-value locations also need to figure out how they can capture some of the dog-friendly market.”

As a dog owner, Eamon is more than happy to compromise. “Some people are frightened of dogs, or have allergies, while venues also have to stay on the right side of food safety regulations. I completely understand that. Perhaps venues could dip their toes in the water by adopting a dog-friendly policy one night per week, and see how it goes.”

SkinnyBatchFoodCo ClayCottage,DublinRoad,Lusk,Co Dublin;01-8949197,skinnybatch.com Skinny Batch cafe is all about the coffee cake. You don’t necessarily have to have coffee (sourced from Two Spots Coffee) or tea with your coffee cake, but it certainly helps. As well as delicious cakes, there’s an extensive breakfast and lunch menu, while dogs are warmly welcomed both indoors and outdoors.

10 other great spots around the island to share with your furry best friend

TheLamppostCafe

16UpperNewtownardsRoad,BelfastBT4 3HT;00447493829671, thelamppostcafe.com With a whimsical CS Lewis theme, the quirky and fun Lamppost Cafe is a charming spot with an all-day menu, afternoon tea, delicious tray bakes and evening small plates menu, all served on vintage crockery. But of greater interest for us dog lovers is their doggy menu, which even offers a frozen yoghurt for those warmer days.

RiftCoffee

30MallowStreet,LimerickCity; 061-312657,riftcoffee.com This small independent coffee shop and wine bar is all about the quality and sustainable things in life, working with multiple coffee roasters to provide a rotating selection of blends. They’re also mad about dogs, welcoming them indoors with treats while their owners enjoy one of the speciality coffees or low-intervention wines.

StGeorge’sMarket

12-20EastBridgeStreet,BelfastBT13NQ; 00442890435704,belfastcity.gov.uk Cork may have the English Market, but Belfast has St George’s Market, and unlike its Cork counterpart, it’s dog friendly.

Dating from the 1890s, the market is open Friday to Sunday with a wide variety of stalls ranging from fish and food, to books, crafts and antiques. Dogs are welcome on a lead and water is available at the May Street entrance.

CavaBodega

1MiddleStreet, GalwayCity;091-539884, cavarestaurant.ie On occasion you will see beloved dog Sam pop up on the social media feed of Irish chef JP McMahon. But it’s a bit of a secret that dogs are welcome in both of his restaurants, Michelin-starred Aniar and the more casual Cava Bodega. Having recently celebrated its 15th birthday, Cava serves up classic and modern tapas, while well-behaved pooches will also get their own treats.

TheAnglersBar& Restaurant

Leemount,Carrigrohane,CoCork; 021-2355699,theanglers.ie Over the years, the Anglers has grown from a cosy pub close to the river Lee into a buzzing gastropub with lots of space, and even a gorgeous outdoor greenhouse room. Ever-popular with large groups for social events, it’s also very popular with dog owners, with dogs of all sizes welcome both inside and outside. Lucky pooches will even get their own doggy chair on which to relax after their walk along the riverbanks.

MarinaMarket

CentreParkRoad,CorkCity; marinamarket.ie Located in one of the old Ford factory buildings, Cork’s Marina Market is a 22 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

There is an active community of dog owners who use social media to share their favourite spots and provide feedback. Clockwise from left: Jamie Vincent with Nacho and Winnie; Eamon Barrett with Nero; Sarah Hanrahan and Tony; and Joanne Cronin with Clara. vibrant mix of tasty food trucks, cafes and other vendors. The large space indoors and outdoors makes it extremely dog friendly, with plenty of room for all to stretch out. There are hydration stations dotted around, occasional dog events and even the odd doggy-wear vendor to help you fashionably kit out your dog.

DockyardNo.8

HarbourIndustrialEstate,HarbourRoad, Bray,CoWicklow;01-2761795,dn8.ie Chef Derek Blount wants to make everyone feel that they just experienced something special when they leave Dockyard, and that promise even extends to our four-legged friends. Serving a breakfast-and-brunch-style menu seven days a week, dogs are welcome in the well-cov-

TheCheekyPiglet

FumballySquare,FumballyLane,Dublin 8;01-4544498,thecheekypiglet.com Owners Clau and James are huge dog lovers, and right from the outset their cosy cafe has been geared equally towards dogs and humans. Dogs are greeted with water bowls, treats and scratches, while the large courtyard space means there’s plenty of room for a stretch and sniff. Clau’s sister is in the kitchen, bringing their native Brazilian influences to the tasty cafe-style menu.

TheCircular

536-538SouthCircularRoad,Rialto, Dublin8;01-5582489,thecircular.ie Look out for the large stone eagle sitting atop the Circular, an old Dublin pub that has found a new stretch of life in recent years. With multiple bar areas of differing sizes, plus outdoor seating to the front and rear, there’s a seat for everyone and every dog. Lucky dogs get to stretch out on the comfortable pub seats, while owners get to enjoy craft beers, wines and even the ever-excellent Lucky’s pizza. ●

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‘I use very bad language.

I always have’ Anne Doyle says she will never write a memoir – her new book is a surprising collection of Irish ghost stories Rosita Boland

‘Y

ou got here first,” is the first thing Anne Doyle says to me, when we greet each other in a Dublin hotel lobby. She is early for our 11am interview, but I am earlier still.

I had watched her walk up the stairs, heads turning as they recognised one of Ireland’s most famous faces – familiar from decades of presenting the Six O’Clock and Nine O’Clock News. Punctuality remains innate in a former broadcaster whose job was to work live, literally to the second.

We’re here because Doyle has edited a collection of ghost stories. It’s called Anne Doyle Presents Tales of the Otherworld, a frightful collection of Irish ghost stories, for which she has written the introduction.

(Top marks for the inspired cover illustration and design, by Graham Thew and Lauren O’Neill respectively: Doyle as soothsayer.)

There are 20 stories from classic writers such as Bram Stoker (The Judge’s House) and Elizabeth Bowen (The Demon Lover), and newer writers such as Tracy Fahey (Tracing the Spectre) and Deirdre Sullivan (A Scream Away From Someone).

How did this book come about?

“I was having a coffee with the former commissioning editor at Gill, Sean Hayes.

He was asking, ‘Would you ever think of writing a memoir?’ God forbid.” Doyle shivers. “No offence to people who write memoirs, but it’s not for me.” The two of them met again. “Ghosts came up,” she recalls, “and spirits of the drinks kind might have been involved.”

This time, Doyle agreed to edit – or “compile” as the title states – a collection of Irish ghost stories. The process took a year or so. She has written the introduction, in 24 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

‘‘

which she recalls her eldest brother reporting a sighting of their mother in a field: their mother had by then been dead for 21 years. Their mother, she writes, looked straight at him with a “very concerned” expression, like a kind of hovering two-dimensional photograph. A practical man, he was deeply shaken by the experience.

Doyle’s first instinct on hearing this, the only daughter of six, was annoyance; “If I’m honest, I was a little put out that our mother hadn’t appeared to me,” she writes.

She says now, “When John saw my mother, she didn’t speak. It was a sunny afternoon, not nighttime. She just appeared as an image when he was out with his dog. He described it as being like a freeze frame picture. I absolutely believed him because he was so rattled by the whole thing.”

Three months later, this son was dead: diagnosed with late-stage cancer shortly after his encounter with their decades-deceased mother. It’s as disturbing and eerie a story as any of the fictional ones that follow.

Did their mother ever since appear to Doyle? She shakes her head.

As it happens, the day we meet is the day the Joint Oireachtas Committee are meeting to resume their ongoing discusAnne Doyle outside Bram Stoker’s house on 30 Kildare Street. She has edited a collection of ghost stories.

Photograph: Nick Bradshaw

I knew Ryan as a colleague. I think he is a loss, and it must have been hard on him. His heart and soul seems to be in broadcasting. I think he must have been through a very tough time

sion on the transparency of RTÉ expenditure of public funds and their governance issues. It has been a troubled summer for Doyle’s former employers.

Did she watch the committee hearings that were conducted earlier in the summer?

“I did. I felt the desire for a good soundbite on either side was tiresome. I am not sure I learned a lot – or anything – from either of the hearings. I found it most surprising that people talked about it for weeks: I wouldn’t have realised that it was

going to be quite the consuming interest it was. I personally don’t get it.”

Does she have views on the Ryan Tubridy and Kevin Bakhurst scenario, which ended so abruptly after months of back-and-forths?

“When you are funded by the public purse, you have to be accountable to the public.” She was, however, very surprised again by the media focus on Tubridy and the public’s ongoing interest in his salary, past and present. “I didn’t think it would matter so much [what was happening at RTÉ] because people get their news in so many different ways now. But look at what has happened with the licence fee business.” The “licence fee business” will, it appears, have cost RTÉ €21million in unpaid licences by the end of this year.

“I knew Ryan as a colleague,” she says. “I think he is a loss, and it must have been hard on him. His heart and soul seems to be in broadcasting. I think he must have been through a very tough time. After all, he is the only person so far in RTÉ who has lost his job.”

Back to her own career at RTÉ, though – does she really not want to consider writing a memoir? “I admire very much the courage of people who write memoirs: I think it is a brave things to do,” she says. “I don’t feel that I would have enough things to write about that I had any wish to publicly share. The bits that would be most interesting are the bits I couldn’t, or wouldn’t, put in a memoir.”

What about the fact that she is a recognisable public figure? She shrugs this off.

“Television is different, because while people are watching, you don’t see yourself. You just struggle through it, and get on with it. I remember being mortified the odd time I’d be on the cover of the RTÉ Guide and I’d see it when I was out buying my groceries, or whatever. Broadcasting was just a job. Being made a fuss of is my idea of hell.” (Doyle’s final news bulletin was on Christmas Day in 2011, 33 years to the day after her first.)

Then she says, mischievously. “I use very bad language. I always have. It’s not something I admire in myself. Like the person who tries to give up smoking and can’t, I’ve tried to give up bad language, but never been able to. I was very lucky many times that the mic was not on live before broadcasts.”

Doyle once had her cards read, under pressure from some friends, but was underwhelmed by the generic-type answers. She does respect the unknown though: “The fear of the unknown is with us all the time. Who knows where ghosts are going to come from?”

She identifies the future modern ghost as being Artificial Intelligence. “It scares the living daylights out of me. What ghosts are going to be created from that? Are we going to be the new ghosts?” ● Anne Doyle Presents Tales of the Otherworld, a Frightful Collection of Irish Ghost Stories, is published by Gill

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THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 25

Travel

Access all areas For wheelchair and walker users, buggy pushers, or anyone with impaired mobility, here are some places that offer easy access to the great outdoors

Gemma Tipton Most of us will experience times at some stage in our lives when walking is difficult, if not impossible. For those who have impaired mobility, accessibility is a fact of life. It is also something that, in different ways, will come to everyone. Occasionally an injury or convalescence will impact our abilities to get around.

People experience mobility, and its challenges, in different ways. My own knowledge of finding places to go that include level gradients comes from exploring safe and unencumbered flat surfaces for a wheelchair, and from being out and about with pals with pushchairs. It also extends to my own need for good spots for a sit and a think in the open air while recovering from pneumonia.

So, where are Ireland’s best spots for accessible trails, walks, or simply places where you can park up and soak in the glories of a view, without too much trouble?

There is no central database. Some kind of accessibility index would make life easier, but while many information sites listing walks do include details on gradient, ease and access, it turns out to be, unfortunately, not quite as simple as one might have hoped. Firstly, guidelines and regulations change. What might have been deemed accessible five years ago, may not be up to code now. Equally, places and pathways deteriorate, and broad smooth pavements can end up cluttered with tables, chairs and other street furniture: all of which means that, while the spots explored here all offer great options, it’s still worth a phone call ahead of a special trip.

Bestforasitandthink

For those times, or life stages, when you want to go straight from your car to a deliciously scenic spot, Glendalough in Co Wicklow is a good one. The upper car park is very close to the upper lake, and you’ve got about 200m of flat surfaces from your parking spot to the water. For more of an explore, see what the intrepid accessibility testers made of the paths at visitwicklow.ie/accessible-day-visit-glendalough.

Beaches make brilliant options for scenic soak-ups. At Garretstown Beach in Kinsale, Co Cork, the car parks are right at each end of the beach, and the one farthest from the Old Head end has good views and strategic benches alongside. On damp or windy days, you’ll find plenty of people enjoying the views without even getting out of the car. In Dublin, there are disabled parking spots beside Dún Laoghaire Pier, and the pier itself is fully accessible for bird and boat watching.

Bestbeaches

While we’re on the subject of beaches, there is a new accessible boardwalk at Greystones, Co Wicklow, on the South Beach, with access from the first arch opposite Park Lane. Tramore and Lahinch also have accessible boardwalks, and there are promenades in seaside towns such as Bray in Co Wicklow and Sandycove in south Dublin. Lisfannon Beach in Co Donegal is another good spot, and the Go Visit Donegal website has a dedicated section for accessible beaches.

Six of the beaches in Donegal are listed as having beach wheelchairs, and while the Beach Wheelchair initiative has hit a few stumbling blocks, including maintenance

26 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

and storage in some places, there are still a good few going come summer time (most will have shut up shop now for the season).

Go to beaches.ie and click the link for Bathing Season Awards and Amenities at your desired destination to see what, if any, are on offer and how to book.

A good spot to start is Achill, where Achill Tourism and the Mayo Sports Partnership have beach wheelchairs available for booking during the season at Keel beach and Silver Strand in Dugort.

Wheelchair-friendly beach mats are also available.

Booking is essential. For more information, or to book, contact Achill Tourism on 098-20400 or email info@achilltourism.com.

GoGreenway

The Greenways have been a welcome addition to the accessible map. Designed with shallow gradients built in, the Greenways are smooth, and ideal for wheelchair users. Pick your spot at greenwaysireland.org, where you can download maps and find accommodation. As the Greenways cover long stretches, do confirm with the local tourist office if there is full access from your chosen entry point in terms of kerb heights and gates.

Look out for the Boyne Greenway in Co Louth. At just 1.9km, it’s a short route, but is a scenic treat, running alongside the river Boyne. Find out more, including additional accessible spots in the area, at

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Staying on the waterfront, the Acres Lake Boardwalk in Leitrim, Ireland’s first floating boardwalk is a 600m boardwalk running out over the lake in Drumshanbo. leitrimtourism.com

Bestforadventure

Hit higher spots than you may have imagined possible in Co Wicklow at Avondale’s amazing Beyond the Trees, where the treetop walk and viewing tower are both fully accessible. The tower is extraordinary, with its gently sloping ramp, winding up to the skies. The 1.4km walk takes you into the heart of Avondale Forest Park, and assistance dogs are welcome too. Booking

Top: The floating boardwalk at Acres Lake, Drumshambo, Co Leitrim. Above: The promenade at Bray (left) and the wheelchair accessible programme at Liquid Therapy in Donegal. Photographs: Fáilte Ireland, Eric Luke and Darragh Gorman and prices at beyondthetreesavondale.com.

From high in the sky to down underground: the Arigna Mining Experience in Roscommon is fully wheelchair accessible and provides a fascinating insight into the mines. arignaminingexperience.ie In Donegal, Liquid Therapy at Rossnowlagh has inclusive and adaptive surf courses for all abilities, including a wheel✒

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Travel

✒ chair surfing programme. See liquidtherapy.ie. Or have a gentler water adventure with Killaloe River Cruises in Co Clare. The one-hour cruises on the river Shannon are wheelchair accessible via an access ramp, which is two feet wide.

Dogs are also welcome. Booking and info at killaloerivercruises.com

From left: Beyond the Trees, Avondale, Co Wicklow; Nicola Whelan from Rosslare, Co Wexford tries out the wheelchair beach mat at Rosslare Strand; Tanya and Paul Mulready from Dublin with Alfie at the ergonomic stone cube seats, cut and crafted from Wicklow granite, which have been installed at a number of scenic locations, including the upper lake at Glendalough National Park. Photograph: Barry Cronin

Bestforoutdoorart

The Lough Boora Discovery Park in Co Offaly is an absolute wonderland for all abilities and ages. With astonishing land art and sculptures, and the incredible biodiversity of this cutaway bog, there is a great cafe, and all-important toilets on site. Some of the art works, by contemporary artists including Michael Bulfin, Alan Counihan, Kevin O’Dwyer and Eileen MacDonagh, include off-track explorations, but all can be seen from the accessible pathways. Info and maps at loughboora.com.

Fishingfanatics

The National Disabled Angling Facility in Aughrim, Co Wicklow, has a four-acre lake in an eight-acre riverside park. See visitwicklow.ie. See also the East Mayo Anglers Association disabled angling facility on the river Moy in Foxford, Co Mayo. It includes a 76-metre accessible fishing platform with access ramps, changing facilities and an accessible car park. eastmayoanglers.com Get right out on the water at Lough Ree, with Lough Ree Access For All boat trips in Co Roscommon. The special boat has a bow-ramp and space for up to three wheelchairs, and excursions include angling, sightseeing, birdwatching and more, and it goes out in (almost) all weathers. loughreeboattrips.com ●

Sleepover spots Alllargerhotelswillhave accessiblerooms,butthat doesn’tnecessarilymeanyou canenjoyalltheirother facilities.Theidealaccessible locationwillhaveplentyof indoorandoutdoorspotswhere youcanenjoyactivitiesand views.Fromexperience,two goodplacestostartare: KilkennycityAttheRivercourt HotelKilkenny,thereisalovely wideriversideterrace.With viewsofthecastle,andtable service,itisagreatspottowhile awayamorningwiththe newspapers,orasunny afternoon.WhileKilkenny’s pavementscanbenarrow,you

28 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

cangetfromthehoteltoariver walkthatmeandersonsmooth pathsforsomedistance.The groundsatKilkennyCastlealso havelongaccessiblewalks,and althoughthecastleitselfisnot fullyaccessible,thenewButler Galleryfartherdowntheriveris.

Bewarned:thelongerriverwalk takingyouawayfromtownat thefarendofthecastle

Networks grounds,overtheriverand back,endsinstepswhenyou getbacktothecastleend.

Cashel,CoTipperarybegan workonaGoldStardisability initiativein2006.Itincludedan in-depthauditofpavements andpathways,crosswalks,kerb inclines,intrusivestreet furnitureandmore.Thismakes thetowneasierthanmostto getaround.TheRockofCashel canaccommodatewheelchair users,butadvancenoticeis neededfortemporaryramps, seecashel.ie.Thepalatial CashelPalaceHotel(left)has accessibleroomsintheGarden Wing.cashelpalacehotel.ie

Thelackofacentral databaseofaccessible trails,andspotsfor outings,isfrustrating buttherearevery helpfulnetworksout there.Firstupisthe DisabilityFederationof Ireland,whose NationalAccessforAll Groupwasofgreat helpinresearchingthis feature.See disability-federation.ie.

FáilteIrelandoffers supportontheindustry sidetoupgradeaccess andfacilities,andisa handyinformation resource.Forwalks,

seetheinternational network,AllTrails, whichhasan Ireland-specificlistat alltrails.com/ireland/ ada.

Socialmediahasa lottooffer,with advocatesandexperts postingandblogging.

OnInstagram,check outLouiseBruton @itsloubru, @wheel_reviews,and @thestruggleiswheel forfirst-handtakeson wheretogo,what works,whereto exploreandwhatto avoid.

Travel

Why am I asked to show my boarding card when shopping at the airport?

Travel Helpdesk Conor Pope

We heard from a very cross reader called John last week. He was enraged by multiple requests for his boarding card as he shopped at Dublin Airport.

“I am travelling to Italy. I wished to purchase some items in the retail area, sweets and such. As I am travelling within the EU, duty-free does not apply, and therefore, I am not obliged to provide proof of destination,” he says.

“Nevertheless at every shop, I was explicitly told the shop would not allow me to make purchases without presenting my boarding pass. This occurred in

every shop except WH Smiths, where the assistant at self-checkout used her code to bypass the demand.”

John says that when a manager was called at one shop – at his request – “it turns out that I don’t have to present my boarding card, as I am not purchasing duty-free products, and the tills can in fact complete the purchase. Wonder of wonders.”

He expresses concern that data is collected that could be of value to retailers, and raises concerns over potential breaches of GDPR legislation.

He proposes a simple solution would be “notices at tills reminding passengers – and staff! – that boarding passes or proof of destination is required for duty-free purchases only. Any customer providing the information then doses so freely.”

This is a story we have covered in the pages of The Irish Times before over many years.

■ Passengers are still routinely asked

for boarding cards when shopping at the airport. Photograph: Getty Images

John is right to say that consumers do not have to show boarding passes when making purchases, apart from when buying duty-free products such as tobacco and alcohol.

Despite that, passengers are still routinely asked for boarding cards, and if they refuse, they can be asked to supply an end destination. If they refuse to provide this, the sale can still be processed as long as the products are not in the duty-free category.

The practice is not unique to Irish airports, and several years ago it emerged that in the UK many retailers operating in international airports were maximising their profits by scanning boarding passes and using the information to claim VAT back from passengers who travelled outside of the EU – back in pre-Brexit days – while refusing to pass rebates back to customers.

Under EU law, retailers can claim back VAT on sales to those leaving the EU, but they have to process boarding cards in order to claim it.

This issue has been highlighted in the past by the Competition and Consumer Protection Commission, which has said that consumers should – at the very least – be told why boarding cards are requested in Irish airports, as the information would allow consumers to make more informed decisions.

We do admire John’s determination not so show his boarding pass. It is a question that is routinely asked of this column, and while we know that it is not a legal requirement, more often than not we simply show our boarding pass so we can go about our day without a big row erupting. ● Haveatravelquestionortopicyou’d likeustofeature?Email travelhelpdesk@irishtimes.com

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THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 29

Fashion

New wave weaves A new generation of designers and makers are breathing life into Irish tweed

30 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

Deirdre McQuillan “Beautiful objects are the most practical that they can be,” observed Ernie O’Malley in his Aran Islands diary Nobody’s Business, noting the great beauty of whitewashed island cottages, everyday dress and objects locals took for granted. Outsiders often bring a different perspective. Muriel Gahan, after visiting craftsmen and craftswomen in the west of Ireland in the early 1930s, including on the Aran Islands, commented that “nobody took the slightest interest in them, with the result that they took no interest in themselves. They did not realise that they were doing something very valuable.”

Breathing new life into Irish tweed these days is a generation of fashion designers who appreciate and value one of the country’s great textiles and craft traditions. At the Council of Irish Fashion Designers show last month, a strong use of Irish tweed (and linen) was noted for the first time. Two of the designers, Noema and Silvia Ortega (a former aerospace engineer and a teacher), used Irish tweed in innovative ways. Both designers are Spanish, and neither had heard of it until they came to live in Ireland.

Ortega’s first brush with the fabric came when she was asked to design a range of tweed ponchos and jackets for Moriarty’s in Kerry. She later worked for Penneys in Dublin.

As one who likes mixing heavy and delicate fabrics together, her herringbone tweed coat matched with a mantilla-style lace hoodie brought a Spanish sensibility to a heritage fabric, while Noema presented a tweed dress – not often seen in Irish fashion – with a matching coat, attributing the look to her memories of growing up in Majorca when “we wore long heavy coats in the winter and were half-naked in summer. What I love about Irish tweed is that it looks like the Irish landscape, and it suits all ages.”

Elsewhere, Ejay Griffin from Limerick played with tweed in a red pinafore over a floral dress and in a jacket patchworked with floral cotton, “finding beauty in the midst of chaos”, she says.

The designer, a graduate of the Limer-

ick School of Art and Design, fell in love with tweed after a student visit for a project to Hanly’s in Tipperary, a company with a weaving tradition going back to 1893, “and I have never looked back”, she says.

In Meath, Cleo Prickett has been using Magee tweed since launching her brand, and likes her jackets “to feel like a piece of armour, robust and sculptural”, she says.

“I love using fabrics with texture, pattern and structure, and wool tweeds combine a hardiness with visual beauty, and their earthy patterns and textures are ideal for intricate tailoring.”

Pride of place when it comes to reinvigorated Irish tweed, placing it firmly in contemporary fashion, is Anna Guerin’s Landskein, now in its fifth collection

Left to right: Donegal mohair tweed coat, €495, Avoca; Donegal herringbone tweed coat, €670, cotton lace hoodie, €260, and cotton velvet culottes, €240, from Silvia Ortega; tweed dress, €695, floral print dress, €388, from Ejay Griffin; Magee tweed coat, €555, Magee tweed pants, €320, from Helen McAlinden; Magee tweed dress, €595, maxi coat, €695, from Noema; and wool herringbone blazer, €299, from Magee; and flower top, €325, and silk organza skirt, €650, from Andtate.com. called Orphic. Her lambswool tweeds are woven exclusively for her by Shaun and Kieran Molloy of Molloy & Sons in Donegal, in subtle shades of olive, ink, cocoa,

black, grey and mulberry in patterns that include oversized herringbones, checks, twills and houndstooth.

“A preference for longer coats has emerged, an appetite for a more refined, structured shoulder and distinct collar and lapel,” she says of this new collection, which also features stylish tweed trenches and blazers.

“From a design perspective, I wanted to bring a modern narrative to Irish tweed and that remains the brand’s DNA.” The Landskein now sits beside Dries Van Noten and Issey Miyake in Brown Thomas, can be found in Havana in Donnybrook and is continuing to weave its way into international markets, getting Irish tweed the global recognition it deserves. ●

THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 31

Relationships

He said he wasn’t ready for commitment and now he’s in a relationship Ask Roe Roe McDermott

Dear Roe, I’m turning 30 next month and I’m about to lose all faith in dating. Three months ago, I ended a year long “situationship” with a man who has strung me along and (I’m starting to realise) used me for sex and entertainment without ever committing to me. He spent the year telling me I was “the coolest girl he knew” and “the type of woman he could see himself with” but claimed he had baggage from his last relationship and needed to work through it so he could fully commit to his next partner – who he repeatedly indicated could be me. But he never did commit. He would call me on weekends or evenings and we spent a lot of time together, but never doing anything like a relationship, like meeting his family or planning dates in the future.

I finally got sick of this and said he shouldn’t call me again unless he wanted a relationship, and he texted a few times but only to “hang out”.

Not seeing him again was so difficult but now I see from social media that he’s in a new relationship. They’re already taking pictures together and being public and I feel like an idiot.

This isn’t the first time I’ve spent months and months in these types of situations, where I work so hard to be accommodating and understanding to men who end up just stringing me along. I’m turning 30 and I can’t do this again. My friends are all in serious relationships and getting engaged and while I don’t need that immediately, I do want a real relationship and commitment. I want to build a life with someone and I’m never going to get there if I spend more time getting messed around. What do I do?

This birthday is going to be so important for you. Not simply because you’re turning 30 but because this is the year that you start taking your power back.

What milestone birthdays are good for is thinking about where we’ve come from, where we are, and where we want to be.

Transitional moments are opportunities to take stock and feel motivated to make change, and it sounds like you are already

feeling that emotional pull towards transformation. You feel like you’re at breaking point, you feel the awareness and urgency that comes with knowing that a pattern has to change. This is a great place to start. All you need now are some steps to follow so you can start forging a new path for yourself – one that actually leads you where you want to go.

I’m going to give you some of the cheat-codes for now and in the future, but it’s really important to find yourself a good therapist who will be able to help you explore your past, so that it doesn’t keep defining your future. Patterns are formed by repetition, and it’s important to figure out when and why you started forming attachments to emotionally unavailable men and kept chasing them and shrinking yourself down to please them – even as they offered you nothing in return. It will be important for you to figure out how your self-esteem and sense of self-worth is tied into the attention of men, instead of believing that you are wonderful and worthy and deserve better than lies, placations and confusion. A good therapist will help you figure out what negative self-beliefs you are unconsciously perpetuating as you return again and again to men who make you believe that you don’t deserve respect, love or commitment.

As for now? First of all, stop looking at this man on social media. All you are going to do is go on a downward spiral of comparison between yourself and his girlfriend, and you’re going to spend even more time obsessing about him without any reward. If you find yourself even tempted to look at his page, literally say aloud what you are about to do, what emotional space you are currently in, and how you will likely feel afterwards. It could sound like: “I am about to look at his Instagram for the third time this week. I feel lonely and tired. After I look, I will probably feel lonelier, still tired, and I will feel insecure and jealous.” It’s much harder to engage in self-destructive behaviour once you have outlined exactly what you’re doing. After speaking the words aloud, instead do something to tackle the emotion you’re feeling in a healthier way – if you’re lonely, text a friend, call a family member or tune into a podcast or song that makes you feel good.

Becoming aware of your emotions and tackling them in ways that will actually help you is going to be a huge lesson for you – and it will go beyond curbing your social media cravings. You have spent years ignoring your emotions, suppressing them, and turning to the exact thing

32 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

‘‘

Agoodtherapistwillhelpyoufigureout whatnegativeself-beliefsyouare unconsciouslyperpetuatingasyoureturnagain andagaintomenwhomakeyoubelievethatyou don’tdeserverespect,loveorcommitment that will amplify your negative feelings while offering you nothing sustaining or nourishing. You have spent years trying to be “the Cool Girl” – ie, the girl without needs, who never says what she really wants, never sets boundaries, never does anything to inconvenience men or make them feel pressured. Instead of naming your emotions and expressing your needs, you settled for things that would maybe give you some small brief hits of attention and validation but would ultimately leave you feeling the exact opposite of how you wanted to feel: insecure, uncertain, unappreciated, unwanted, unstable and unworthy.

You need to start naming what you want, and moving towards that. This means no longer pretending to be someone you’re not, no longer working hard for people who give you nothing in return, and – most importantly – becoming really turned off by the behaviour you’ve been drawn to for years. You want reliable communication, respectful interactions, mutual care and effort, clear commitment, and a shared vision for the future. You want someone who cherishes you, prioritises you, and is willing to work on a relationship and build it into something strong and solid.

Start naming these desires out loud to yourself – and start turning away from behaviour that brings you the opposite direction. If a person is being inconsist-

ent, not acting enthusiastic about you, doesn’t seem ready for a relationship or commitment, or doesn’t make you feel like you can express your needs, teach yourself to walk away from them. Remind yourself that if someone doesn’t treat you well or want what you want, working harder is not going to bring them closer to you, it’s simply going to move you further away from what you want.

Learning how to walk away from people who aren’t good for you is difficult – and necessary. It’s important for your self-esteem, but it’s also important for your overall goal of finding a loving relationship. The reality is that spending all your time with emotionally unavailable men makes you emotionally unavailable to more suitable people. And you’re not wasting your own time any more.

Speak your desires out loud, repeatedly. Turn away from people who can’t offer you what you want, and towards those who can. Don’t shrink yourself down to fit an unworthy man’s needs – show up as you are and wait for someone who wants to fit beside you.

It’s gong to be a good birthday, because this year, you’re walking towards the future you want. ● HaveaquestionforRoeMcDermott?

Submititanonymouslyat irishtimes.com/dearroe

Sustainability

An ingenious solution to plastic and food waste in hospitals perfect solution to our single-use plastic addiction. They often aren’t composted, and are made from plants meaning they require land for production. So we can’t just drop them into our single-use habits and carry on. But there is a hierarchy of need. A hospital apron which protects people from infection is more urgent than a disposable coffee cup which saves us having to rinse out our keep cups.

The HaPPE Earth aprons are available now, and they are planing a game-changing complimentary initiative, which could be part of a fix for another problem in hospitals: food waste.

At a recent pitch jam event hosted by Furthr (a start-up support organisation based in the Guinness Enterprise Centre) Dr O’Riordan wowed the audience and won the competition. She explained how their aprons are better, and potentially come with a better way to dispose of them. The answer comes in the shape of a biodigester, machines that use enzymes, heat, UV sterilisation and mechanical

Game Changers Catherine Cleary

As a doctor, Mary O’Riordan knows the guilt that medics feel about the plastic they discard every working day.

Irish hospitals generate a mountain of 50 million plastic aprons every year, nearly a million a week. Single-use plastic is a double curse. The material itself is made from fossil fuels. When tonnes of lightly used disposable aprons are incinerated, they release twice as many tonnes of carbon into the atmosphere.

Working with her cousin Lisa O’Riordan, Dr O’Riordan set up HaPPE Earth, to make medical-grade compostable aprons. Compostable plastics aren’t a

Working with her cousin Lisa O’Riordan, Dr O’Riordan set up HaPPE Earth, to make medical-grade compostable aprons shredding arms to turn food waste (and compostable plastic) into compost on site in 24 hours.

Hospitals have a duty to provide everyone with a meal, Dr O’Riordan told us - but many people don’t want to eat in hospital, so levels of food waste are huge.

A biodigester removes many of the

problems that get in the way of on-site composting, especially in a healthcare setting. These include smells, four-legged foragers and a long wait as your greens and browns turn into the good stuff. With a biodigester, the waste goes into the machine, which can range in size from a large catering oven to a shipping container. A day later it is broken down into a useful crumbly fertiliser, putting the food and compostable waste back into the soil where it can help create healthy habitat.

The O’Riordans will be piloting the service next year in Ireland, the UK and the US as “an all in service, where HaPPE supply the compostable consumables, measure, report and through on site bio-digestion produce a nitrogen rich pathogen safe fertiliser,” Lisa explains.

Waste could be used to create relaxing gardens, even pocket forests. Nature in situ for staff and patients can help ease the stress of hospital life. Now that’s what I call a happy outcome. ●

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THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 33

Food & Drink Restaurant Review Corinna Hardgrave

New life for an old favourite restaurant

Brighton Road is the newest incarnation of a much-loved neighbourhood restaurant It could be that I’ve picked up bad habits from the small plates approach to eating. Or perhaps I’m letting my fondness for how Italians dine influence me.

Either way, on a Saturday night, just a week after Brighton Road opened, I am possibly the most awkward customer in the room.

Perhaps some of the blame lies with the fact that the last time I visited this Foxrock restaurant it was Pala, with dozens of small plates, pasta and al taglio pizza.

The outside space which served as a dining terrace during the Covid years, and was critical to the pizza business, is once again three parking spaces. A red Ferrari gleams in one of them, and Brighton Road, the restaurant and the leafy street, is very much back to its Bistro One genesis.

I should point out that there was no awkward-customer-eyeroll (indeed, quite the contrary), I just know that asking for our meal to be served as four courses – starters, shared fish, shared meat and dessert – would be a bit tricky for the kitchen. It turns out to be quite the genius plan, one I may be adopting more often. It certainly beats swiping a plate from my husband mid-bite so that I can taste each dish properly.

The menu at Brighton Road is similar to the menu that ran at Bistro One, the pre-Pala restaurant that opened in October 1992. Unfussy, with prawn cocktail, sautéed scallops, sole on the bone, roast duck and steaks, it seeks to please rather than necessitate a quick dive into Google Translate.

Mark Shannon and his wife Vianne have been the owners since day one, and the atmosphere is beyond joyful as he chats to tables of diners who are clearly delighted to have their neighbourhood bistro back. The kitchen has been

reconfigured (the pizza kit is gone), the floor is once again cushioned with a light coloured carpet (with a decided improvement in acoustics) and succession plans are in place. As Shannon’s son, Rory, seeks out a new home for his pizza concept in Dublin city centre, chef Alan Wang and his wife Elaine, who both worked in Bistro One for years, will gradually be taking over the running of the restaurant.

We start with chicken liver parfait (¤11), a stalwart, I would imagine, which is light and creamy, served with toasted sourdough; and Castletownbere crab (¤16), which is piled high on brioche toast with very good pickled cucumber and radish. A 500ml carafe of Ciello Bianco Catarratto (¤22), a biodynamic white wine from Sicily, is a refreshing accompaniment from a well-priced wine list which offers most wines by the glass and carafe. Pricing is proportional to the bottle price, which is nice to see.

As requested, our fish comes out as a separate course. The black sole (¤48), one of the evening’s specials, is a classic Bistro One dish. Nearly half of the diners order fish for their main course, I later discover. The price is reflected in the size and quality of the fish, which would feed two for a light supper. Beautifully cooked, golden on top and doused in garlic butter, it has been taken off the bone and served on two piping hot plates with wedges of lightly grilled lemon. It is

34 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

The menu at Brighton Road is similar to the menu that ran at Bistro One, the pre-Pala restaurant that opened in October 1992

delicious, although a word of Brighton Road, 3 Brighton Road, warning, if you prefer to pull Foxrock Village, Dublin D18A97 back on the intensity of the garlic, ask to have the garlic Telephone: 01 2897711 butter on the side so that it VERDICT doesn’t outshine the delicate Website: brightonroad.ie flavour of the fish.

THE IDEAL NEIGHBOURHOOD The roast crispy duck Barely audible if any, RESTAURANT WITH SOLIDLY it’sMusic: (¤34), another Bistro One all about the chatter of GOOD FOOD classic, is again plated for the happy customers. two of us. It is a very generous portion, beautifully cooked with burFood provenance: John O’Reilly, nished, crisp skin, and glorious roast Hannan Meats, Wrights, Sheridans, potatoes, apple sauce and stuffing.

Roundwood Stores, Rings Farm, Little We share dessert, just one, a generous Italy, Artisan Foods, and North serving of marshmallow-y Pavlova (¤9) Wicklow Eggs. with blackberries and blackcurrants. It could perhaps do with more of a crisp Vegetarian options: Buffalo exterior to give a contrasting crunch, but mozzarella with peaches, and spinach it’s a tasty end to our meal and certainly and ricotta ravioli. enough for two people.

Dinner for two with a carafe of wine Wheelchair access: No accessible was ¤140. ● room or toilet.

8.5/10

TakeawayReview

bean sprouts, mixed mushrooms and sweetcorn. The beef teppanyaki, which comes with a generous side of miso soup, sits on stir-fried vegetables and is accompanied by a big mound of rice. The beef is cooked right through and the teriyaki sauce is a bit bland.

Queues form for this sushi, ramen, teppanyaki and wok noodles Takara,37 Abbey Street Upper,Dublin 1, D01 P585 Telephone:01 872 9963 Website: takara.ie What’sonoffer?

If you ever walked past Takara on Abbey Street, it is likely you saw a queue of people outside. This is a popular restaurant that also does a bustling takeaway trade. Sashimi is available and the sushi comes as nigiri, hosomaki, norimaki and futomaki. Sushi options include salmon, tuna, prawn, octopus, crab and unagi eel, as well as vegetarian choices with asparagus, cucumber, avocado, tofu, wakame and roasted pepper. Poke bowls are also available and there is plenty of choice with the ramen – pork, beef, chicken, fish, seafood and vegan. You will also find rice-based dishes, wok-fried noodles and teppanyaki as well as a selection of tapas.

Whataboutthepackaging?

Apart from the miso and ramen soups, which come in cardboard containers with plastic lids, everything is in single-use plastic. They are attractive containers suitable for use at the table. The containers are recyclable but far from ideal from an environmental perspective.

Whatdidweorder?

Gyozo from the tapas menu, tuna sashimi, beef teppanyaki and vegan ramen.

Howwastheservice?

Really efficient. We ordered online on the Takara website (Deliveroo is also available) and when we dropped in for collection the order was ready.

Wasthefoodnice?

The six grilled pork gyoza, with a meaty filling in light wrappers, would appear to be made in-house. They’ve got plenty of flavour and come with a ponzu dipping sauce. The tuna sashimi is fresh and nicely sliced, served with wasabi, ginger, grated carrot and soy sauce. The vegan ramen is a very generous portion. The mushroom-flavoured miso broth comes separately, so that nothing gets too soggy. The ramen bowl is loaded with udon-style noodles, tofu, bamboo shoots, bak choi,

Whatdiditcost?

It cost ¤43.40 for dinner for two people – gyozo, ¤8.50; tuna sashimi, ¤8; teppanyaki beef steak, ¤15.45; and vegetarian/ vegan ramen, ¤11.45. Online, a 10 per cent discount for first-time orders is flagged, but I was unable to apply it.

Wheredoesitdeliver?

Delivery daily with Deliveroo, 5pm-10pm, 5km delivery radius. Or order on the Takara website giving a collection time.

Apart from the miso and ramen soups, which come in cardboard containers with plastic lids, everything is in single-use plastic.

WouldIorderitagain?

Yes, the food is tasty and there are good vegetarian and vegan options. I would skip the beef teppanyaki next time. ●

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THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 35

Food & Drink

Packed with antioxidants and vitamins Under the weather? The key is to buy the freshest produce available and to eat plenty of it Ginger and garlic marinated salmon with pak choi

Cook Gráinne O’Keefe

Many years ago, at a staff party, I and eight others got food poisoning from eating oysters at a restaurant. I don’t remember ever being as sick as I was in the following days. After the initial sickness had subsided, I still felt very ill and I found in the following months that my energy levels had decreased. I got extremely tired after eating, and would get very bad stomach pains, for no apparent reason.

Eventually, I got a referral to check for H.pylori, which is a bacterium found in the stomach that causes ulcers and other gastrointestinal issues. It is difficult to treat as it can be very resistant to antibiotics. Eventually, I had a biopsy that allowed my medical team to devise a treatment to finally get rid of it.

This worked and I was incredibly thankful that it did. The entire experience, however, has altered my immune system and made me far more conscious of it and how I can support it by adding simple things to my diet and schedule.

When I have a cold, I drink chamomile tea with honey, lemon and whiskey. When I have a sore throat, I eat hot and sour soup. I have found that, over the years, what really helped me was focusing more on what I was consuming, and how it was beneficial to my body.

My recipes this week are dishes packed with natural antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. The key is to buy the freshest produce available, organic if you can, and to eat plenty of it.

Salt-baking is a particular favourite technique of mine. It works well with vegetables, but also fish, meat and rice.

Steaming inside a salt crust results in deep layers of seasoning and tender vegetables. Be careful not to burn yourself when opening the salt crust, and don’t eat it, it won’t be pleasant.

Discard it as it has done its job.

When buying salmon, buy organic. If you buy fresh fillets, ask your fishmonger to pin-bone and scale the salmon. If you prefer smoked, I get mine from Sally Barnes of Woodcock Smokery.●

36 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

Serves:2 Ingredients: 1tbsp fresh grated ginger 3 garlic cloves, minced 3 tbsp soy sauce 1tbsp honey 1tbsp sesame oil 1tsp rice vinegar 1salmon fillet (approx 400g), pin-boned and scaled 1tbsp vegetable oil 3 heads of pak choi, halved 1fresh red chilli, sliced 1lime, halved

Photographs: Harry Weir

Method 1.In a mixing bowl, combine the grated ginger, minced garlic, soy sauce, honey, sesame oil and rice vinegar. Mix well. Place the salmon fillet in a shallow dish and pour the marinade over it. Make sure the salmon is coated evenly. Cover the dish and let it marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. You can marinate it longer for more flavour, even up to 24 hours if you have time.

2.While the salmon is marinating, prepare the rest of the ingredients.

Slice the fresh red chilli and set it aside. Cut the lime into halves for garnish.

3. Heat the vegetable oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat.

Remove the salmon from the marinade, allowing any excess marinade to drip off. Place the salmon fillet in the hot pan, skin side down. Cook for about five minutes on each side, or until the salmon is cooked toyour desired level of doneness. The cooking time may vary,depending on the thickness of the fillet.

4. While the salmon is cooking, add the sliced pak choi to the pan. Fry them for three minutes, until they start to soften. Once the salmon is cooked and the pak choi is tender, removeeverything from the pan.

5.To serve, place the cooked salmon fillet on a plate, arrange the pan-fried pak choi around the salmon and sprinkle the sliced red chilli over the top. Garnish with lime.

Quinoa and kale salad with smoked mackerel, tahini dressing and a soft-boiled egg Serves:2 Ingredients: 100g quinoa 200ml water 2 medium eggs 2 tbsp tahini 1 tsp lemon juice 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tsp honey 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 garlic clove, minced 2 smoked mackerel fillets, flaked 200g curly kale, de-stemmed 2 tbsp toasted hazelnuts, chopped Salt and pepper Method 1. Start by cooking the quinoa: Rinse the quinoa thoroughly under cold water in a fine-mesh sieve. In a saucepan, combine the rinsed quinoa with 200ml of water. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover the saucepan, and simmer for about 15-20 minutes, or until the quinoa is tender and the liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat and let it cool to room temperature.

2. While the quinoa is cooking, prepare the soft-boiled eggs: Place the eggs in a saucepan and cover them with cold water. Bring the water to a boil, then immediately reduce the heat to low and simmer for five minutes for a soft-boiled egg.

Drain the hot water and transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process. Let them cool for a few minutes,then peel them.

3.For the tahini dressing: In a

Salt baked turmeric glazed vegetables Serves:2

small bowl, whisk together the tahini, lemon juice, extra virgin oliveoil, honey, Dijon mustard, minced garlic, salt and pepper until well combined. Adjust the seasoning to taste.

4. In a large mixing bowl, combine the cooked quinoa, tornkale leaves and flaked mackerel.Drizzle the tahini

dressing over the salad and toss everythingtogether until well coated.

Divide the salad among serving plates and top each with a soft-boiled egg, cut in half before serving. Sprinkle the chopped toasted hazelnuts over the salad as a crunchy garnish.

Ingredients: 200g plain flour 1 egg white 1½ tsp salt ½ tsp thyme leaves 2 tbsp ice cold water 150g sweet potato, peeled and sliced into thick pieces 150g carrots, peeled and sliced into thick pieces 150g cauliflower florets 150g tenderstem broccoli 1 tbsp unsalted butter 1 tsp ground turmeric Salt and black pepper Method 1. For the thyme salt crust pastry: In a food processor, combine the plain flour, egg

white, salt and fresh thyme leaves. Pulse the mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs.

Gradually add ice water, one teaspoonat a time, while pulsing, until the dough just comes together. Form the dough into a ball, wrap it in cling film and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

2. While the pastry is chilling, preheat the oven to 200 degrees. In a mixing bowl, combine the sliced sweet potato, sliced carrots, cauliflower florets and tender stem broccoli. In a small saucepan over low heat, melt the unsalted butter. Stir in the turmeric, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Mix until well combined. Pour the

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turmeric butter mixture over the vegetables and toss.

3.Roll out the chilled pastry on a lightly floured surface to fit your baking dish. It should be large enough to cover the vegetables. Place the turmeric-glazed vegetables in the baking dish in the centre of the rolled out pastry and cover them with the pastry completely and crimp the edges to allow no air to escape. Bake in the preheated oven for 30-35 minutes,or until the pastry is golden brown and the vegetables are tender. Once it is done, remove from the oven and let it cool for a few minutes before serving, tearing open the pastry and discarding it.

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THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023 | 37

Food & Drink Photograph:LillyHiggins

Spend Less, Eat Well Lilly Higgins

Shelf Help Marie-Claire Digby

Healthy lentil and beef pie

Vegan treats Tuck in to these delicious vegan cookie-brownie hybrids

This crowd pleasing dish will keep everyone happy

Whatisit? Naked Bakes Salted Double Chocolate Chip Brookie Dough (¤5.25/300g).

I recently watched Live to 100: Secrets of The Blue Zones, on Netflix with my family. It is a documentary series by Dan Buettner about longevity and what our diet has to do with it. I’ve followed Buettner on Instagram for many years, first reading about Blue Zones in a National Geographic special back in 2016.

Traditionally, people living in Blue Zones, such as Okinawa, Sardinia and Nicoya in Costa Rica, eat unprocessed foods. Nothing surprising there, but it’s always good to be reminded. Their diets include plenty of fresh vegetables, whole grains and beans. Beans reign supreme in blue zones.

While we don’t eat beans daily, I do try to include beans and pulses wherever I can.

One of my kids is a total carnivore, so fully plant-based meals can be a struggle, so I meet him halfway. Recipes such as this lentil and beef cottage pie are made weekly. I gradually dial back the beef. We all really love this version. Other days I’ll scatter a little crispy chorizo on his vegetable-based pasta, or pop a little pancetta on his mushroom lasagne. This way, we’re all happy and peace is restored, everyone is well fed and nourished.

More importantly I’m listening to his food preferences and tweaking the main course, not making an entirely different dish, which I have done for years.

Cooking from scratch and making an effort to cook wholesome, nourishing food is worthwhile. I know that my kids value it and will hopefully go on to do the same for themselves.

I’ve used half beef and half lentils for this. Use whatever quantities you would like, or use lamb to make a shepherd’s pie.

It’s a really wholesome crowd pleaser and perfect for autumn evenings. ●

Whomakesit? Aisling Tuck got the inspiration to start a vegan food business when she was living in Australia. She started out with Oh Happy Treats, which makes vegan baked goods for cafes and shops, and has now added Naked Bakes, which is a range of ready-to-bake vegan cookie dough and brookies (a cookie/brownie hybrid). They are made at her vegan bakery in Tallaght, Dublin.

Lentil and beef cottage pie Serves:6 Ingredients: 2 tbsp olive oil 500g minced beef 1 large onion, diced 3 cloves garlic, sliced 2 sticks celery, diced 3 carrots, peeled and diced 2 tbsp white flour 100ml red wine, optional 500ml stock 500g cooked Puy lentils (2 tins, drained) 2 tbsp tomato puree 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 sprigs sage 1 sprig rosemary 2 tbsp finely chopped thyme Salt and pepper 800g potatoes, boiled and mashed Method 1. Place a large pan over a medium heat. Add the oil and minced beef. Fry for 8-10 minutes until it is browned.

Add the onion and continue to

38 |THE IRISH TIMES Magazine | September 30, 2023

cook for another few minutes till softened before adding the garlic, celery and carrot.

2. Sprinkle the flour over and stir well. Leave to cook for a minutethen pour in the wine.

Stir to combine and burn off the alcohol. Next pour in the stock. Mix well to avoid any lumps.

3.Add the tomato puree, soy sauce and herbs. Mix well and leave to simmer for 25-30 minutes till the sauce has

thickened and the vegetables are cooked. Add the lentils and stir well. Taste for seasoning, add salt and black pepper as needed.

4. Transfer the mixture to a large two-litre ovenproof dish. Remove the whole rosemary and sage sprigs.

5. Top with the hot mashed potatoes and drizzle with little oil. Place under a hot grill to crisp up for 10 minutes then serve right away.

Lilly’s kitchen tips ■ Cookyourownlentilsfromdried,they’recheaperand youcanbuybetterquality.

■ Investinaminichopperorsmallfoodprocessorfor choppingvegetablesespeciallyfordishessuchasthis.

You’remuchmorelikelytoincludemorevegetablesifyou don’thavetodealwithchoppingforages.

■ Sturdierherbssuchassageandrosemarygivebody anddepthtovegetariandishes,asdoumamiflavourssuch asmushrooms,soysauce,misoorWorcestershiresauce.

What’sgoodaboutit? For a cookie made with vegan butter, which Tuck says is composed of coconut oil, shea butter and cacao butter, the cookies taste really “buttery”.

The quality of the chocolate is excellent, too, and Tuck sources it from The Luxury Confectionery Company in Mallow, Co Cork.

HowdoIituseit? It comes in a cylindrical package, ready to cook. The instructions say to cut the log into four or six, and roll the slices into balls before baking. I tried baking them in both an airfryer and a conventional oven, and the brownie-like consistency of the brookies was much better from the oven.

WherecanIgetit? It is in some branches of SuperValu, having been included in the 2023 Food Academy programme, and online from nakedbakesireland.com.

The online shop sells 600g rolls of dough and the cost for two rolls (24 large cookies) is ¤20 including delivery.

Anythingelse? The range also includes classic chocolate chip cookie dough and a peanut butter version.

Sendyoursuggestionsto marieclaire.digby@irishtimes.com

Drink John Wilson

Aldi and Lidl’s autumn bargains Aldi has a solid range of affordable white wines, while Lidl’s Italian cellar is well worth exploring At its recent autumn collection tasting, Aldi presented a very solid range of white wines, almost all priced at ¤10 or less. Lidl led with its French wine cellar, but I was

more impressed with its Italian cellar, which included a few very tasty wines.

Again, the white wines were the stars for me.

The two Aldi wines featured here are new to their range and both are well worth buying. The Austrian Riesling is a real bargain, and should appeal to anyone who enjoys crisp, dry white wines.

I would also recommend its Specially Selected Marsanne (¤8.99). Fans of sparkling wine should note the return of the Aldi Crémant du Jura. This has always been a bargain. The new version is even better but, sadly, more expensive too (¤17.99). It is not a huge jump to their excellent Veuve Monsigny Champagne (¤21.99).

From Lidl, I would also take a look at its fresh, light Muscadet Bon Vallon (¤9.99) and the fruit-filled Pétale de Roche Viognier (¤9.99). However, my favourite white wine at the recent Lidl tasting was its Roero Arneis (¤11.99), a delicious Italian wine, which lands on Thursday, October 5th. It too offers great value for money. That date will also see the return of the crisp, mineral Greco di Tufo (¤11.99) and the food-friendly Poggio Civitelle Orvieto Classico (¤11.99). Lidl will drip-feed us its autumn range throughout October with new limited-edition releases every few weeks. ●

PinotBlancJean Cornelius2022, Alsace,12%, ¤12.99 Plenty of rich, almost opulent ripe peaches and with good, refreshing acidity.

Enjoy by itself, with creamy pasta or grilled chicken.

FromLidl

Bourgogne Chardonnay2021 12.5%,¤11.99 Fresh and vibrant with crunchy red apple fruits and a bone-dry finish. Try it with baked ham, charcuterie and soft tangy cheeses.

FromLidl

SpeciallySelected AustrianRiesling 12.5%,¤9.99 Concentrated, fresh, zippygreen apple fruits with citrus peel.

Try it with smoked salmon or sautéed plaice. Fantastic value for money.

FromAldi

SpeciallySelected Chilean Chardonnay2022, Casablanca 14%,¤9.49 A lively, fresh, unoakedchardonnay brimming with mouth-watering clean apple fruits.

Serve as an aperitif, with prawns or lighter chicken dishes.

FromAldi

Enjoya tender moment together How can a meal become truly exceptional?

By featuring the most tender and mouthwateringly flavoursome beef imaginable. Treat yourself and someone special today.

SO MUCH TO SAVOUR

SCAN FOR RECIPES

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