Through the Eyes of Ganga by Ipsita Praveen

h e t E h y g es of u o r h T

Ipsita Praveen

Copyright © 2023 All RIghts Reserved.

No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without written permission from the author. For copyright enquiries, contact : ipsita.overart@gmail.com Design and concept by Ipsita Praveen Year of publication : December 2023

Through the Eyes of

Ganga

Acknowledgements I express my sincere gratitude to Sulochana, Bikram, and SMI for giving me the privilege to participate in the unforgettable educational journey to Varanasi, alongside my fellow peers. The profound connections I formed with the city's vibrant inhabitants and rich culture have left an indelible mark on my heart. I dedicate this book to the undeniable passion that its people hold towards their cherished crafts and traditions.

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table of contents Introduction ........................... 1

Ganga: The Goddess of Purification ........................... 2

Religious Figures and Wooden Crafts ........................... 3

The Lifeline of Varanasi ............................4

introduction

“ Banaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together. “

-Mark twain

The River Ganges, held sacred by millions of Hindus, emerges from the folds of the Great Himalayas. Navigating its way through rugged, narrow valleys and vast plains, it embarks on a journey to reach the holy city of Varanasi- a city where a harmonious blend of peace and chaos unfolds with a unique grace, providing a calling to seekers of truth.

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Ganga extends solace to countless pilgrims, revered for its purifying essence that is believed to cleanse all that comes her way. Regarded as the embodiment of the Hindu Goddess Ganga, this sacred river is believed to possesses the power to absolve sins from those who immerse themselves in her waters. As she gracefully oversees Varanasi, Ganga weaves a captivating tapestry of the city's 3000-year-old history and rich cultural heritage.

A breathtaking sunset at the Ganges.

Scindia, one of the 84 ghats of Varanasi.

Nestled on the left bank of the Ganga, Varanasi bustles with life daily, as it has been doing for millennia. It is a place that many believe has the closest connection that one can find to eternal peace for the soul. The city glows with the devotion of people, and its inhabitants who actively contribute to preserving their deep-rooted heritage. Through the generations, they have safeguarded their cultural legacy by practicing their arts and crafts, ensuring their continuity for the future generations as well. Within the pages of this book, we delve into the narratives of some of these artisans, exploring the stories and traditions that they hold so close to their hearts.

Ganga: The goddess of purification

“ O Ganga, you are the destroyer of all sins, the giver of salvation, the bestower of blessings. You are the most beloved goddess of all Hindus. “

-vishnu Purana

Ganga Devi is the personification of the river Ganges, and is one of the many Goddesses in Hindu mythology. Depicted as a fair, beautiful woman riding Makara, a divine crocodile like creature and often cradling a lotus in one hand, she is worshipped as the Goddess of Purification and Forgiveness by Hindus. According to legend, she was a part of the Heavens before descending from the celestial realms to Earth guided by the divine intervention of Lord Shiva. Hence, she is many a time illustrated alongside Shiva in images.

As the story goes in the Mahabharata, there was a King Sagara who intended to perform the Ashwamedha ritual, where the land traversed by a ceremonial horse would be claimed as his own. Any interference to the horse’s path invited confrontation with this mighty force of an army.

Lord Indra, not wanting the king to succeed, orchestrates the theft of the horse by strategically leaving it in Sage Kapila's ashram.

Upon discovering its disappearance, the king dispatches his sixty thousand sons in search of it. They eventually do find it, wrongly accusing the sage of the theft. Enraged by the disturbance to his penance, Sage Kapila reduces all the sixty thousand men to ashes with his gaze. As a last resort, the king sends his kind and valiant grandson Amshuman to approach the sage and seek guidance on how to liberate the souls of his sons.

The sage reveals that only the water of Ganga could deliver them, which sets Amshuman in severe ascetic practices to please the Gods. However, it is only his grandson, Bhagirathi, who successfully follows in his footsteps and earns the favor of Lord Shiva. The almighty consents to the descent of Ganga onto Earth, but was aware that her direct fall would shatter the Earth.

So, he entraps her in the mattes of his hair before gently releasing her.

Hence, Ganga finally finds her way to Earth, in accordance to Bhagirathi's unwavering determination. He washes the ashes of his forefathers in her waters, finally setting their souls free. Even in the real world, the headstream of Ganga is called the Bhagirathi (which is fed by the Gangotri glacier). From here comes the origin of the belief that ‘Ganga Jal’ can wash away all of one’s sins.

Religious figures and wooden crafts

“ In this land of Ganga, there is culture of education, but more importantly there is

education of culture. “

Kashi, another name for Varanasi, has a significant association with the mighty Lord Shiva. According to the Puranas, Shiva and Brahma had a conflict during which Brahma was beheaded. The act carried the sin of brahmanahatya, so Brahma's severed head clung to Shiva's hand- until he reached Kashi.

This way Shiva not only found Kashi, but also created a land so holy that even today people believe those who breathe their last in this city, attain ‘Moksha’. That is, salvation, or liberation

It is also said to be the place where Shiva and Parvati settled after their

from the perpetual cycle of rebirth.

upon the city, Kashi is considered to be one of, if not the holiest grounds for Hindus. The resonance of prayers praising the Almighty echoes through every corner, with the people's

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unwavering devotion to the him clearly visible in their eyes. The important

marriage. Given the sacred Ganga also flows alongside, bestowing vitality

Kashi Vishwanath temple here enshrines one of the 12 Jyotirlinga sites.

Sarnath, the place where Lord Buddha had delivered his first sermon thousands of years ago, is located about 10km from the city, making him another important religious figure here.

These deities are depicted in the many crafts and traditions practiced here- in the hand looming of carpets, the embroidery of the famous Banarasi sarees, the soft stone ‘jali’ work, as well as the wooden lacquerware and toys.

The making of the iconic wooden toys of Varanasi is one particularly significant practice which has existed for thousands of years. The artisans believe their ancestors first began this craft by carving gifts out of pieces of wood. Today, these toys are played with by thousands of children. They also hold several cultural, traditional and religious values, some often made for auspicious occasions.

Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, these dolls and toys showcase intricate designs carved from a variety of woods, including rosewood, teak, and sandalwood, adorned with vibrant colours. The distinctive style of painting is what sets them apart from other woodcraft. The creation of these exquisite figurines is a laborious and time-consuming process, demanding days, and at times even weeks of patience, concentration, and dedication. Mostly inspired by Hindu mythology, these dolls artfully depict various gods, and occasionally feature people, animals, and objects representative of traditional lifestyles.

Following the sculpting of the main body and the detailed carvings are sculpted with chisels, gouges, and files, the doll undergoes a smoothing process by having sandpaper rubbed rigorously all over its surface. Once cleared of any dust, a layer of primer is applied to ensure maximum adhesion for the final paint. Basking under the sun for a few hours allows it to dry before multiple layers of the base coat are applied to maintain its opacity.

After this dries, the main intricate detailing is carried out using squirreltailed brushes of various sizes. The concluding step involves lacquering the piece, imparting a glossy finish that not only enhances its visual appeal but also safeguards it from wear and tear.

the lifeline of varanasi

“ The heart goes, where

the river flows. “

The Ganges serves as a beacon of hope for numerous individuals seeking employment in Varanasi. The beautiful sceneries that she graces the city with attracts tens of thousands of tourists every year, and pilgrims ten times that number. Her commercialisation has created avenues for various occupations, including boat riders, snack vendors, tea stalls, guides, cleaners, taxi drivers, souvenir sellers, caretakers, and more. The very existence of this sacred river enables many to earn their livelihood and sustenance.

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Being all inclusive, Ganga not only tends to humans but various animals as well. Hundreds of species of fishes, mammals and amphibians thrive in the waters of Ganga, along with endangered ones such as the South Asian River Dolphin. During the winters, the migratory Siberian birds flock to the Ganga in majestic numbers, who she warmly accepts and houses until its time for them to leave.

A busy morning on the banks of Ganga.

Preparing for the daily Ganga Aarti.

Entrancing rituals such as the reknowned Ganga Aarti are performed daily to pay respects to the holy river. However, most of them contribute significantly to environmental degradation, leading to the accumulation of substantial waste that eventually find its way into the river. This includes garlands, idols, human and animal remains and non biodegradable wastes like plastics, and chemical dyes. If this wasn’t enough, the dangerous amounts of sewage that end up in the river result in levels of fecal coliform bacteria exceeding the Indian Government's permissible limit by a hundredfold.

Despite the government's 'Ganga Action Plan' initiative, the protection of the river fell short due to political corruption. It is only up to our us to preserve the beauty and bountifulness of our beloved Ganga before its too late.

Written, designed and illustrated by Ipsita Praveen