Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels
Zurich October – November 2018
What to Take Home
Locally produced gifts, pocket knives and fondue sets
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Arriving & Getting Around
Culture & Events 11 Concerts, shows and exhibitions
Gifts from Zurich 14 Locally produced spirits, bags, watches and more
Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more Chocolate, coffee and conversation Bars, pubs and clubs
Restaurants and bars in the north of the city Churches, murals and museums
In autumn a walk along the lakeshore can be beautiful. For more autumnal options like a pumpkin exhibition check out our Day trips chapter on p. 60. Or shed the autumn blues with a visit to a hammam or thermal baths (p. 59). shutterstock.com
Watches & Jewellery
Zurich for kids
Fancy fashion and Swiss design
Major fun for minor citizens Laser tag, escape rooms and billiards Natural highlights and cultural heritage
Maps & Index Züri Tirggel pictured here are typical Zurich biscuits and an ideal present to bring home. Read about it and other local products that make perfect gifts or souvenirs on p. 14. For classic souvenirs see p. 50. PD
L ö w e n s t r a s s e 4 0 - Z üri ch
66-68 69 70
City map Index Public transport map Advertisement
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October – November 2018 3
Foreword Autumn can be truly beautiful in Zurich, especially when wisps of mist emerge from the River Limmat and colourful leaves rustle on the ground beneath your feet by the lakeside. Gorgeous vistas ensure that even a cruise on the lake in October can still be a pleasant experience. And should you encounter a thick fog in the city, there’s an easy solution: just move upwards. A ride up to Zurich’s own little mountain known as the Uetliberg (see p. 35) will bring you above the mist, but sometimes you have to travel a little further to see the sun. Hörnli or Rigi are a safe bet (p. 61) and you can check their webcams before you make the trip. If the weather really let’s you down, the city has plenty of indoor entertainment. Visit the new Imagine 68 exhibition about the 1960s generation at the National Museum (p. 11) or spend some time at the Swiss Finance (p. 38) or FIFA World Cup (p. 37) museums. If you’re looking for something more active, challenge your friends to a game of laser tag or try to solve some riddles at an escape room (p. 58). A little retail therapy is no doubt also on your Zurich todo list. If you’re looking for a present to bring home or a unique souvenir, take a look at our local products feature (see p. 14) for some interesting ideas. For pocket knives, fondue sets, cuckoo clocks and other traditional souvenirs see p. 50. The fog may soon roll into town, but Zurich In Your Pocket will guide you through the mist this autumn. Lukas Füglister has lived in Zurich for nearly 15 years now. As editor and general manager of Zurich In Your Pocket he made sharing his profound knowledge of the city his profession in 2010. He loves dining out, craft beer and tennis and never tires of exploring Zurich. email@example.com
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COVER STORY Our cover shows the view from the lookout tower on Uetliberg, Zurich’s own little mountain. Beyond the autumnally coloured forest you can see Lake Zurich with the districts of Wollishofen and Leimbach in the foreground.
PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher pocket publishing GmbH, Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. (+41) 32 510 85 76, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.inyourpocket.ch Member of Zürich Tourism / Spirit Club Yearly print run: 180 000 (6 x 30 000) ISSN 1663-9944 © pocket publishing GmbH 2018 Editor & General Manager Lukas Füglister, Copy editor Mārtiņš Zaprauskis, Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman Photos For photographers see photos Cover © istock.com/suteracher Sales manager Susi Haefeli, email@example.com, (+41) 32 511 28 68, Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, next issue’s closing date: November 13, 2018 Editor’s note & Copyright notice The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We assume no responsibiltiy for changes and errors. Content copyright pocket publishing GmbH. Photos copyright photographers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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inyourpocket.com 4 Zurich In Your Pocket
Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres north of the city centre in Kloten and handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at Arrival 1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There you can find free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There is a big public shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and free Wi-fi for the first 120 minutes, just connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’.
timetables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch, call tel. (+41) 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min) or download the ‘SBB Mobile’ app to your smartphone.
ARRIVING BY BUS International and domestic buses as well as sightseeing coaches arrive and depart from the bus station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, F‑10), a two-minute walk north of the main train station. Domestic inter-city buses in Switzerland (by Eurobus) only began operating this summer. See www.swiss-express.ch and p. 6.
ARRIVING BY CAR The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich City, the city centre is quite easy to reach. But parking is scarce and very expensive. For overnight parking you can try to find a spot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00. Indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. If you’re running to catch a train: aim for the big arch. Zurich Tourism
Getting to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and from the airport is by train. Catch a train at the underground train station near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zürich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train. Up to 10 trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly 10 minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the less busy ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for an adult is 6.80Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city (3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public transport, make it a 24-hour ticket for just twice the price or consider buying a Zürich Card (see p. 38). A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Official taxi stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes and the same tickets valid for the trains can be used.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the main hall, where you will find the main exit towards the city centre, the ticket offices and the Tourist Information (see p. 9). Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside the station. At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr. Remember that trams always have the right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebra crossings without traffic lights. Headlights must be turned on all the time. The legal blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential zones, it is often 30km/h. Fines are high and Switzerland makes sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home driving licence.
TAXI SMARTS Taxis in Zurich are in general clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It‘s usually easy to get one, even at rush hour. The city sets the following maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr per kilometre, 80Sfr per hour. The actual fees have to be displayed on a sticker on the door of the car. In reality only two prices exist: the maximum fee and the lower one many companies charge (incl. the two listed below): initial fee (Basis on the sticker) 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per kilometre (Distanz), 69Sfr per hour (Wartezeit). When taking a taxi from a stand, check the prices on their door. Yes, you are free to take any taxi at a stand. At the stands you will often find the more expensive ones (especially at the main train station). Taxi drivers have to and usually do use their metres. Cheating is rare. The ridesharing service Uber also operates in Zurich. You can order your driver easily by using its app. Fares are usually significantly cheaper than standard taxi fares. TAXI 444Qtel. (+41) 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch. TAXI 7x7Qtel. (+41) 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch. October – November 2018 5
Arriving & Getting Around DOMESTIC INTERCITY BUSES
require a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message from your mobile with the word ’NZ’ to 988 to purchase the supplement by phone.
For the first time in history, domestic intercity buses finally began operating in Switzerland this summer. Previously, Switzerland did not license domestic intercity buses to protect its extensive train network. Now Eurobus Swiss-Express operates three domestic lines, two from east to west (St. Gallen - Zurich - Geneva and Chur - Zurich - Bern - Sion) and one from north to south (Zurich - Basel - Luzern - Lugano). There are usually two connections each day and each route has roughly a dozen stops. Standard tickets are half the price of a train ticket for the same route and sometimes even cheaper offers are available. The Swiss half price public transport card is valid on these buses. Travel times are considerably longer than by train, but they are a good option if you want to save some cash and time isn’t a factor, especially for routes such as Zurich to Bern, Geneva, Basel or Chur (starting point to the Grison alps). If you’re going south (Lucerne, Ticino) then it’s not really a worthwhile option from Zurich, as the bus makes a huge detour via Basel first. Check connections and book tickets on its website.
Trains The train network is best for getting around Switzerland quickly and in comfort. For timetables visit www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold at vending machines and at the counters in the main hall of Zurich’s main train station. Buy tickets with your smartphone using the SBB Mobile app, which even indicates which connections have supersaver tickets (see box below). You need to register with your credit card.
EUROBUS SWISS-EXPRESS, www.swiss-express.ch, tel (+41) 900 44 14 34 (1.19 Sfr/min.)
ZÜRI VELO - PUBLIBIKE, high-quality bikes, pick-up and return only at stations; e-bikes available. 3Sfr for the first 30 minutes, then 0.05Sfr per minute (or 20Sfr per day). E-bikes 4.50Sfr, then 0.10Sfr per minute.Qwww.publibike.ch
PUBLIC TRANSPORT City transport Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses, local trains and even ships on the lake and the river. The ticket system is fairly simple: the regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is zone number 110 (see map p. 70). Tickets are valid in the chosen zones on all kinds of transportation. A 24-hour pass for the city will cost you 8.80Sfr, a single ticket valid for one hour 4.40Sfr. Children up to five travel for free, 6 - 16 yearolds pay the half-fare (which is actually 3.10Sfr). Tickets can be bought at the ticket machines at nearly every stop (most take credit cards). You can also buy tickets on your smartphone via the ZVV Tickets app. It now has an integrated check-in ticket option that automatically charges you the best price for your ride (actually using the lezzgo app). Note that Uetliberg and the airport are not within zone 110. If you’re caught without a valid ticket you’ll be fined 90Sfr. Another option is the Zürich Card (27Sfr/24hrs, 53Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 as well as between the airport and the city and it also gives you free admission to many museums. See p. 38 for more information. Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. There are night buses all night from Friday to Saturday and from Saturday to Sunday to all parts of the city. They 6 Zurich In Your Pocket
BICYCLES There are several hundred free-floating and stationary rental bikes available throughout Zurich. You simply download the respective app, register your credit card and then you’ll be able to see where the closest bike is located. Book it, find and unlock it with your phone and hop on! LIME, green, three gears, quite comfortable to ride. 1Sfr per half hour. Electric scooters available too.Qwww.li.me.
SUPERSAVER TICKETS FOR TRAINS Like most things, train tickets are rather expensive in Switzerland. But if you know when and where you want to go beforehand, you can save up to 70% on your journey with so-called Supersaver Tickets. The easiest way to get these tickets is to install the SBB Mobile app on your smartphone. An English language version is available. Check the connections for your route on your travel day with the timetable function. If Supersaver Tickets are available for a certain connection, a % sign is displayed on a black background on the left. Click on the connection, then on the button “Tickets from CHF xxx” at the bottom. On the next screen you’ll see the standard price and the Supersaver Ticket price for this connection. Purchase the Supersaver Ticket. You’ll need to set up an account, but all you need is a credit card and an email address. Note that Supersaver Tickets are only valid on the chosen connection (standard train tickets are valid on any connection on one calendar day in Switzerland). Also note that these ticket prices are set by an algorithm and can change any time. Alternatively, you can buy Supersaver Tickets and set up your account at www.sbb.ch. Supersaver Tickets are not available at ticket counters or ticket machines. zurich.inyourpocket.com
City Basics BASIC DATA Area Switzerland: 41285 km² Zurich (Canton): 1729 km² Zurich (City): 92 km²
OFFICIAL INTERNET SHOP WWW.PARTIMEWATCH.COM
Population Switzerland: 8 million Zurich (city): 405,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Zurich: German Local time Central European (GMT+1h)
CUSTOMS Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the according customs authorities):
TO SEE THIS CUP YOU NEED TO MAKE IT TO THE WORLD CUP FINAL – OR TO ZURICH.
How about an autumn walk or ride along the lake?
Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 (50) g of smoking tobacco. Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer.
Goods over these limits must be declared when entering an EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. In Switzerland there is duty-free shopping for arriving passengers at airports. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers.
WWW.FIFAMUSEUM.COM Seestrasse 27, 8002 Zurich October – November 2018 7
ZIYP_60x90_en_Version Q1_2018_v03_hgs.indd 1
City Basics USEFUL ZURICH APPS Our own app, In Your Pocket City Essentials, features only our favourite places in Zurich (and many other cities). Just as useful is the map, which is also available offline. It’s available for free on both iOS and Android. To download, simply go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone or scan the QR code on the front cover of this guide. The free ZVV-Timetable app provides real time doorto-door timetable information for all public transport within the canton of Zurich in English. It also tells you where the nearest stop is. With the free ZVV-Tickets app you can also buy tickets on the fly. It now even offers a check-in function, automatically charging you the best price for your ride when you finish travelling.
DRINKING The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers are increasingly getting competition from local brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul, Chopfab or Appenzeller for instance. Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the best come from further south, you’ll find some good Blauburgunders and Riesling Sylvaners from the Zurich region.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Fire brigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in medical centres, like Permanence at the main train station (facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn ((+41) 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 - 22:00) or mediX (+41) 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has three public hospitals with walk-in emergency units which are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL QH‑11, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 255 11 11. Open 24 hrs. EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. (+41) 44 466 11 11. Open 24 hrs. EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID QC‑4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. (+41) 44 366 20 55. Open 24 hrs. Pharmacies To find out where the next pharmacy (Apotheke in German)on duty is, call (+41) 900 55 35 55 (1.50 Sfr/min). The pharmacy at Bellevue is always open 24 hrs (G-14, Theaterstrasse 14, (+41) 44 266 62 22).
LANGUAGE Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school.
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS Sechseläutenplatz is where Zurich has a certain grandeur. Zurich Tourism
ELECTRICITY Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins - they can take Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US or the UK (as well as from many other countries) you need an adaptor. Travellers from the US (and other countries with a a different voltage) additionally need a voltage converter. 8 Zurich In Your Pocket
January 1 January 2 April 8, 2019 April 19, 2019 April 22, 2019 May 1 May 30, 2019 June 10, 2019 August 1 September 9, 2019 December 25
New Year Berchtold Day (local) Sechseläuten (Zurich only) Good Friday Easter Monday Labour Day (Zurich only) Ascension Whit Monday National Holiday Knabenschiessen (Zurich only) Christmas zurich.inyourpocket.com
City Basics LANGUAGE SMARTS Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. Hello (formal)
(as in French)
MAIL & PHONE Post: Swiss post is generally reliable and also can take care of all your financial transactions. The Sihlpost is the post office with the longest opening hours (see below). Dialling: Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is (0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone numbers in parentheses. Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore the (+41) prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late. Take a ticket and wait for your turn. QE‑11, Kasernenstrasse 97, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 848 888 888. Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.
MONEY The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change your money at the SBB change at the main railway station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.
POLITICS The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states which retain some independence and have their own constitutions, facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital and the seat of the parliament and the federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU.
RELIGION The Swiss are traditionally either Roman Catholic (42%) or Protestant (35%). The largest (and quite new) minority religious community are Muslims (4%). Zurich is traditionally Protestant, due to the ardent reformator Zwingli who put an end to partying here in the 16th century. But his grip has loosened somewhat in recent decades.
SAFETY Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area, even for single travellers at night. Be on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city.
SMOKING The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir).
VISAS For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.
TOURIST INFORMATION The Tourist Information run by Zurich Tourism is located in the main hall of the main train station. This is a one-stop solution for all the information you might be missing. For personal advice at the counter, take a ticket and wait your turn. There are some pads for you to browse and check out the many tours and venues. They also offer the following services. They... • will book city tours and excursions • sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel Pass • sell the Zürich Card (see p. ?? for more infos) • can make hotel reservations • sell tickets for events and museums and souvenirs Last but not least you can always pick up the latest copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course. QG-11, Main hall of the main train station. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:30 - 18:30. Nov -April open 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. October – November 2018 9
History XVI Century Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from 1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was forbidden or strictly regulated.
NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER XVI - XVIII Century During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli.
ROMANS AND SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH
RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE
100BC - X Century Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of the Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them the language that was to become today’s Swiss German (Schwyzerdüütsch).
XIX - XX Century Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First World War and was refuge to the artists who started the Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971!
ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS
THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR
XII - XIV Century In the 13th Century Zurich became an imperial city, answering only to the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. Zurich was now headed by a woman the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey. In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the guild of the shoemakers on the left).
XX Century During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the socalled réduit strategy.
ZURICH GOES SWISS… AND PROTESTANT XIV - XVI Century In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north all the way to the river Rhine. 10 Zurich In Your Pocket
ZURICH TODAY XX - XXI Century After the war Switzerland’s economy boomed and mass immigration from Southern Europe set in, while culturally and politically Switzerland remained very conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth movements clashed with police, but also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highlyskilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today. zurich.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme of excellent concerts. Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring the continent and Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but unfortunately very few productions in English. Events are listed in the following categories: classical concerts, exhibitions, festivals, shows and rock & pop concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered by date.
19.11 19:30 » DANIEL HARDING & THE SWEDISH RADIO SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA
Conductor: Daniel Harding; violin: Janine Jansen. Works by Allan Pettersson, Jean Sibelius and L. van Beethoven.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 135Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.
20.11 19:30 » ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA & JENNIFER PIKE
Of course there are many more events than we can list, so we recommend www.zueritipp.ch for more information.
Conductor: Sir Roger Norrington; violin: Jennifer Pike. Works by Felix Mendelssohn and W. A. Mozart.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 105Sfr, www.zko.ch.
10.10 19:30, 11.10 12:15 & 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA
24.04 - 25.11 » KATSINAM - FIGURES OF THE PUEBLO INDIANS
Conductor: Paavo Järvi; piano: Zee Zee. Works by Franz Liszt and Gustav Mahler.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 160Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.
12.10 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA
Conductor: Paavo Järvi; piano: Khatia Buniatishvili. Works by Claude Debussy, Sergei Rachmaninoff & J. Brahms.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 160Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.
Over 250 Katsina figures from two private collections are on display at the North America Native Museum (NONAM). They are an impressive and colourful tribe. Some have their stately age written on their faded faces, while others look as if they’ve just arrived. They embody the ancestral spirits of the Pueblo cultures and are traditional gifts, both fascinating and timeless at once.QNONAM, Seefeldstrasse 317, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41) 43 499 24 40, 12/8/6Sfr, families 25Sfr, www.nonam.ch. Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
14.09 - 20.01 » IMAGINE 68 THE SPECTACLE OF THE REVOLUTION
For once, the Tonhalle Orchestra without their instruments.
23.10 19:30 » ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA - SEASON OPENING
Conductor: Willi Zimmermann; viola: Amihai Grosz. Works by Antonín Dvořák, Max Bruch and Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky. QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 105Sfr, www.zko.ch.
11.11 11:15 & 14:15 »TONHALLE ORCHESTRA - FAMILY CONCERT
Conductor: David Philip Hefti; soprano: Mojca Erdmann; actors: Delia Mayer and Max Simonischek; director: Eva Buchmann. Die Schneekönigin by David Philip Hefti. Wold premiere.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
This exhibition is a collage by two guest curators Stefan Zweifel and Juri Steiner and it presents their perspective of the generation of ‘68. It features objects, videos, photos, music and works of art and turns the atmosphere of 1968 into a multisensory experience. The exhibition takes a comprehensive look at this cultural time period, allowing visitors to float through Warhol’s Silver Clouds into a world of past fantasies.QF‑10, National Museum (Landesmuseum), Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, 10/8Sfr, www.nationalmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
OPERA & BALLET The Zurich Opera is a magnificent building near the lake shore built in 1891 by Austrian architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Check out the programme on their website. You can also buy tickets on the opera’s webpage, by phone or at the ticket office on site. Plays are usually with German and English subtitles. The shows of the Zurich Ballet Company directed by Christian Spuck take place here too.QF‑5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus/Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 268 66 66, www.opernhaus.ch. October – November 2018 11
Culture & Events CINEMAS Zurich has more than a dozen cinemas, many of them with more than one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their original language with German and French subtitles. But the big multiplex cinemas that have displaced some of the smaller ones in the last two decades have started to show more and more movies dubbed in German. In smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the original language – lots of them in English of course. They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes (English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German. CORSO A four-screen multiplex showing blockbusters at Bellevue.QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 900 55 67 89, www.kitag.ch. RIFFRAFF RiffRaff is a lovely artthouse cinema with four screens just off Langstrasse.QD‑9, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch.
25.10 - 13.01 » ROBIN RHODE - ZURICH ART PRIZE
Robin Rhode won the Zurich Art Prize with a solo exhibition at Haus Konstruktiv. For Rhode, who was born in Cape Town in 1976, the medium of drawing is not limited to an image carrier, but is instead a technique that he uses to trigger a performance-based process – in the public space, as well as on the walls of museums and galleries. Be it choreographed or improvised, Rhode understands drawing to be something interwoven with space and context, which is ultimately recorded in the form of photo sequences, videos or objects. His latest works contain references to Modernism, play with the vocabulary of Constructivism and incorporate notions from colour theory. The Zurich Art Prize jury expressed enthusiasm about Rhode’s handling of Constructivist borrowings, which he can implement with relish in response to space and context.QE‑12, Haus Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 217 70 80, 16/12Sfr, free if you’re younger than 16, www.hauskonstruktiv.ch. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
MUSICALS 13.11 - 18.11 » LET IT BE
It’s like entering a time capsule. With this Beatles tribute show straight from London’s West End, you can experience the biggest Beatles hits live. Experience euphoria like back in the day! Shows start at 19:30, Wed 18:30, Sat 14:30 & 19:30, Sun 13:30 & 18:30.QH-1, Theater 11, Thurgauerstrasse 7, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 115 - 95Sfr, www.theater11.ch 12 Zurich In Your Pocket
Drawings interwoven with space and context: Robin Rhode.
FESTIVALS 27.09 - 07.10 » ZURICH FILM FESTIVAL
The international competition is the core of the Zurich Film Festival, which grows bigger each year. International movies compete for the coveted Golden Eye, the festival’s main award, in a number of different categories. Apart from the contestants, many other films are screened here including international premieres. In recent years the organisers have even been successful in attracting big international stars like Sean Penn and Hugh Grant to Zurich. This year Judi Dench will be honoured with the Golden Icon award. Check www.zff.com for its detailed programme. The centre of the festival will be located on Sechseläutenplatz next to Bellevue.Qwww.zff.com.
ROCK & POP CONCERTS 11.10 20:00 » JASON DERULO
Since his phenomenal rise to superstar status, US singer, songwriter and dancer Jason Derulo has sold over 94 million singles worldwide, all of which were cocomposed by himself. He will continue to secure his place at the top of contemporary urban pop music, whose DNA he has significantly shaped.QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 75 85Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.
24.10 20:00 » LAURA PAUSINI
Laura Pausini is one of Italy’s most successful pop stars. To date she has sold over 70 million records worldwide and now she’s on a world tour again with her latest record Fatti sentire. QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, 66 - 140Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.
07.11 20:00 » MORCHEEBA
Remember The Sea, Rome Wasn’t Built In A Day or Blood Like Lemonade? These are all hits by Morcheeba, which is considered to be one of the most successful trip hop bands. They still have their original intensity, too.QD‑11, Volkshaus, Stauffacherstrasse 60, 8Helvetiaplatz, 80 90Sfr, www.allblues.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events 07.11 20:00 » BLACK EYED PEAS
After an eight-year hiatus, The Black Eyed Peas are back on stage in original line-up. Remember those big hits like Where is the Love?, Shut Up and My Humps? Now they’ll try to do it all over again on their Masters of the Sun tour. QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, 55 - 90Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.
10.11 21:00 » PROTOJE
Jamaican reggae singer Protoje brings his new album A Matter of Time to Zurich. Skilful melodies and insistent words discuss the political and social situation in Jamaica. It sounds urgent - and damn good.QRote Fabrik, Seestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen, 40Sfr, www.rotefabrik.ch.
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11.11 20:00 » NOTHING BUT THIEVES
They are young, talented and one of the most successful British newcomer bands of recent years. Nothing But Thieves is now on tour with their latest record Broken Machine. QE‑9, X-tra, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 448 15 00, 49/54Sfr, www.x-tra.ch.
20.11 20:00 » ANGÉLIQUE KIDJO
Angélique Kidjo, the queen of Afrofunk is back! On her latest album she interprets the songs from the legendary Talking Heads’ classic from 1980, Remain In Light, in her very own, joyfully powerful way.QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, 65 - 90Sfr, www.allblues.ch.
City Essentials The queen of Afrofunk, Angélique Kidjo.
29.11 20:00 » MGMT
The New York indie-tronic band MGMT is back on tour promoting their new record Little Dark Age.QE‑9, X-Tra, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 448 15 00, 60Sfr, www.x-tra.ch.
30.11 20:00 » JAN GARBAREK GROUP
No one plays the saxophone like Jan Garbarek, which is why he’s so popular, and not just with jazz lovers. He’ll be on stage with Indian drummer Trilok Gurtu creating magic jazz hymns with beats. Enjoy.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 55 - 110Sfr, www.allblues.ch. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Only our favourite places Works ofﬂine, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app
E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S
October – November 2018 13
Take a piece of Zurich with you If you’ve asked yourself what to take home from your trip to Zurich, here are some local products, apart from pocket knives and cuckoo clocks. We think they make a good gift or souvenir, as most are made or designed in and around the city. For all of the classic souvenirs take a look at souvenir shops on p. 50.
TURICUM GIN This gin is actually distilled in the city of Zurich, hence the name Turicum (Latin for Zurich). A passionate group surrounding Merlin Kofler has produced this fine spirit in small batches since 2015. It’s made of 12 different natural ingredients including local fir tree needles and lime blossoms as well as juniper berries, of course. The successful brand comes in a stylish stone bottle and is definitely a good souvenir or gift. You can find it for example at the Jelmoli (see p. 44) and Globus department stores on Bahnhofstrasse. Q www.turicum-gin.ch
SOEDER NATURE SOAP Zurich based design collective Soeder designs and produces sustainable and natural basics like clothing, furniture and accessories. In their very own factory they produce their natural Soeder soap with only natural vegetable ingredients (no preservatives or sulfates are used). It comes in its trademark simple brown glass bottle and is available in different fragrances like the refreshing sage/rosemary/lavender, grapefruit or even gin. An aromatic souvenir from Zurich that lasts. Find the soap and other Soeder products at its shop at Ankerstrasse 124, (+41) 44 558 34 43 (D-11). Q www.soeder.ch
PARTIME These Swiss designer watches were invented by Zurich local Andy Mossner. They display the time in a new, graphic way by simultaneously showing the time of day and how much of the day is left. For example, a blue area within a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue. A rather original way to keep Zurich in mind. Find it at Teddy’s Souvenir Shop (see p. 51), at its webshop or ask for an express delivery to your hotel. Q www.partimewatch.com 14 Zurich In Your Pocket
TAUCHERLI CHOCOLATE This chocolate is handmade in Zurich, but that’s not the only reason why it makes a good present or souvenir. It simply tastes great. Owner Kay Keusen is a true aficionado and his company can now produce chocolates from ‘bean to bar’, meaning that they do all of the necessary production steps themselves - unlike many of the big chocolate producers. We personally think that you can taste the difference. In addition to the new bean-to-bar collection there’s a handful of different chocolates available (try the dark chilli!) among other treats. The full Taucherli assortment is available in the Niederdorf at Chäschäller (Niederdorfstrasse 46, (+41) 44 251 38 92, G-12). Jelmoli department store (see p.44) on Bahnhofstrasse also sells Taucherli. Q www.taucherli.com
ZÜRICHFOTO.CH Photographer Rolf Müllestein sells authentic black and white pictures of the city of Zurich, the old town and the lake. Some are coloured, but all are framed, signed and numbered. The unexpected views of Zurich’s sights and landscapes are definitely a good way of taking a tiny bit of the city back with you. You can visit his shop next to Grossmünster church (Kirchgasse 32, G-13) where you’ll often find the photographer himself. Q www.zuerichfoto.ch
SPUTNIK ZURICH These minimalist-style bags manufactured in Switzerland are designed by Zurich locals Chelsea and Steffi. They come in two models and a variety of colours and all have a reflective diagonal stripe, which is a kind of trademark. The functional Voyager has two compartments that can fit your laptop and daily belongings, while your smartphone, wallet and keys can be stored in an additional hidden pocket. The top can be folded and it’s meant to be worn like a messenger bag on your back. Definitely a practical Zurich souvenir. Find it at Die Macherei (Europaallee, Lagerstrasse 104, D-10) where you might even run into Steffi and Chelsea. Q www.sputnikzurich.com
ZÜRI TIRGGEL The traditional Züri Tirggel honey biscuit certainly makes for a good present. The Tirggel was mentioned for the first time in the 15th century and consists of up to 30% honey. Today only a few bakeries still make this artisanal treat. The bakers create traditional Zurich motifs like the Grossmünster on the biscuits by pressing moulds onto very thin dough. The biscuits are then baked at high temperatures using only top heat. That gives them their characteristically brown top, while the bottom stays pale. The result is a hard, but sweet biscuit. It’s best to keep each bite in your mouth for a while, so you can experience the full honey flavour. Get them at St. Jakobs Bäckerei at Stauffacher (Badenerstrasse 41, D-12) Q www.st-jakob.ch facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
October – November 2018 15
At Edomae the Japanese chef prepares the raw fish and seafood right in front of you, see p. 21. | Samir Seghrouchni
Zurich has around 2,000 restaurants, bars and takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again. But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange, international style and are not easily categorized. Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals, usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. For the evening we recommend you book a table. For more suggestions see www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.
but sweetened with condensed milk. The staff was friendly and helpful and we were even allowed to take a piece of fruit with us for our afternoon break. We’ll definitely come back again to try some of the many à la carte dishes from pho soup to noodle and rice dishes.QD‑10, Rolandstrasse 9, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 545 61 14, www.comingsoon.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00, closed Mon, Sun. €€. AB
BURGERS HELVTI DINER BELLEVUE Helvti Diner’s burger concept is simple, and that’s probably one of the reasons why it’s so successful (this is its third location in town). You can customise your burger in four
ASIAN NEW COMING SOON This is a simply, yet stylishly furnished Vietnamese eatery in the Langstrasse district. The lunch special we tried was served on a chic metallic board and we definitely weren’t disappointed. The tofu dumplings were soft and served on a bed of Thai broccoli and semi-hot soy sauce and rice, but we spiced it all up with some fresh pieces of chilli and a side of kim chi (fermented cabbage) that came with it. The lunch also included a dessert, which was a well-balanced yoghurt cream with raspberry coulis. We recommend you finish off with a Vietnamese coffee, which is strong, 16 Zurich In Your Pocket
SYMBOL & PRICE KEY A Credit cards accepted
X Smoker lounge
J City centre location
N No credit cards
8 Nearest tram station
C‑1 Map coordinates
€ €€ €€€ €€€€
most mains under 25Sfr most mains 25-40Sfr most mains 40-55Sfr most mains over 55Sfr zurich.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants steps: first you choose the meat (Swiss premium, Angus, Wagyu or veggie), then the size (single or double), choose your add-ons like bacon, cheese or fried eggs and then decide on a sauce. Our burger was grilled medium and the meat was perfectly pink inside, just as we ordered it, but next time (and there will be a next time) we might order some guacamole for a little extra flavour. The service was quick and friendly.QH‑14, St. Urbangasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 43 500 05 35, www.helvti-diner.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, kitchen open continuously until 23:00, Sun 22:00. €€. AJ JACK & JO Jack & Jo is in on fast slow food. Or .. is it slow fast food? Basically it’s burgers, made from locally produced ingredients and home-made buns, served with handcut fries and drinks presented in preserving jars, all in a modern but homely styled environment. The vegetarian burger with quinoa was solid, but the beef burger was more to our taste here. There is a huge salad bar and they do quesadillas and breakfasts too. During the day you place your orders at the bar, a buzzer will tell you when they’re ready to pick up, in the evening a waiter will serve you at your table. Popular with students and the city’s hipsters. Sat & Sun à la carte brunch until 16:00.QE‑10, GustavGull-Platz 2, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 542 88 99, www.jackandjo.ch. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 22:00, Kitchen closes daily 22:00, Sun 21:00. €. AJ
CHINESE NEW KHUJUG Kuhjug serves Chinese dishes in a no-kitsch, arty and modern urban atmosphere. The menu has more than 100 options, which makes choosing quite difficult, but with such an extensive selection you can pick exactly the kind of meat or fish you want. However, if that sounds like too much work, you can do what we did and just drop by at lunchtime. Of the five available lunch deals we opted for the Szechuan-style duck. The food was neatly arranged in small bowls and a little frying pan and surprisingly included some fried dumplings as a starter. The duck was crispy, but perhaps fried just a touch too long. However, the vegetables and the sauce were excellent and hot, but not too spicy (the way we like it) and the service was quick and friendly.QD‑10, Schöneggstrasse 5, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 41 888 05 58. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:30. €. AB
Slow food meets comfort food at homey Jack & Jo.
different noodle dishes on offer, all of them served either as a soup or what they call dry (but you still get sauce) and you can also choose rice noodles or homemade Italianstyle noodles. The menu offers different dumplings and other à la carte dishes, but why not stick with the noodles, as they certainly made our day better, if not luckier.QE‑12, Sihlporte 3, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 558 28 27, www.luckynoodle.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 22:00, Mon, Tue 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 21:30, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, closed Sun. €. ABJ
FINE DINING DIDI’S FRIEDEN At Didi’s you get exquisite cuisine in a calmly elegant atmosphere. Our evening took off splendidly with the hors d’oeuvres and then continued with the delightful fourcourse menu which is new every month (around 98Sfr). We had marinated king fish as starter followed by a tender piece of veal’s loin. Cooking and hospitality is a vocation here and the chocolate art-work on the dessert plates is just one of the proofs. Reservation recommended.QG‑10, Stampfenbachstrasse 32, 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 253 18 10, www.didisfrieden.ch. Open 11:00 14:30, 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€. ABJ
THE CLASSIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT
NEW LUCKY NOODLE The noodles in this state-of-the-art city centre venue really made an impression on us. We chose the dan dan mian (served dry as the chef recommended), and were quickly hit with an explosion of flavours. The noodles with minced pork and Si Chuan peppers were decorated with a bit of fresh cabbage, carrots and cilantro and a fiery sauce making it a truly flavourful dish. There are at least a dozen facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
October – November 2018 17
Restaurants blew us away was the monkfish with okra and Indian cress. The fish was tender and succulent and was complemented by a curry sauce that completely took our taste buds by surprise. For dessert we chose a Mesa classic, the heavenly apple pie. In short, chef Sebastian Rösch knows how to create exceptional flavours while keeping things rather simple at this stylish, yet unpretentious establishment. QG‑9, Weinbergstrasse 75, 8Sonneggstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 321 75 75, www.mesa-restaurant.ch. Open 11:45 - 15:00, 18:30 - 24:00, Sat 18:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. A
FRENCH The noble ambience of a guild house at Zum Grünen Glas.
MAISON MANESSE This is extraordinary avant-garde cuisine in a comfortable and easy-going setting, where the homey white wooden panelling sets the mood. The plates created by chef Fabian Spiquel change frequently and feature experimental cuisine and other unusual cooking styles. Sometimes you even have to lend a hand and help finish preparing the dishes. The tartar, for example, came with a recipe and some essences like Katsuobushi whiskey and we even grilled the rosemary, honey and goat cheese marshmallows ourselves on an open flame at the table. Although you can choose items from the à la carte menu, many opt for Spiquel’s Michelin-starred surprise menu (around 150Sfr). The flavours they create here are amazing, but relax, not everything is completely off the wall. A steak is still a steak, but the one we had here was probably the most tender we’ve had in a long time. Recommended!QC‑14, Hopfenstrasse 2, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 462 01 01, www.maisonmanesse.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue 11:45 - 14:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, closed Sun. €€€€. AB MESA We started our evening at Mesa with an unexpectedly vibrant and delicate cucumber and papaya salad made even better by the nori seaweed and cashew nuts. The secreto pata negra which followed was delicious, but what really
LA CÔTE For decades this place has been really dedicated to meat. Their speciality is a so called charbonnade, thinly sliced beef you grill yourself on a small charcoal grill right on your table! If you think this is crazy - you’re right, it is. But it’s great fun too! Just make sure you don’t wear your best suit, as the air here is rather, ehm, grilly. With the charbonnade you get homemade sauces, some pickles, and some thin cut fries if you like. It’s all you can eat as long as the grill is hot enough - which on our visit was much longer than we could take.QB‑13, Aemtlerstrasse 26, 8Goldbrunnenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 91 91, www.restaurant-lacote.ch. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (all you can eat charbonnade 54Sfr) €€€. AB MÈRE CATHERINE Mother Catherine’s menu majors in classics from Provence using plenty of fish, seafood, olives and rosemary. But she also does other French classics like onion soup or snails. Filled pasta like ravioles and cappelacci, usually home-made, are also standard features. The interior with uneven walls, dark tables and chequered tablecloths is pleasant and the kitchen reliable. The tiny bar Le Philosophe next door is good for a quiet drink.QG‑13, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 40, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 22:15. €€. ABJ
NEAR THE GROSSMÜNSTER „finest Provencal cuisine“ Nägelihof 3 8001 Zurich +41 44 250 59 40 commercio.ch arthouse.ch
18 Zurich In Your Pocket
Restaurants GUILD HOUSES
Zurich’s guilds or zünfte are prestigious men’s clubs today, and many own a handsome mediaeval or early modern guild house in the old town where they meet. Quite a few of these guild houses are also restaurants which cultivate a traditional, refined cuisine. ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar - it’s served either with basil and olives or Asian-style with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like geschnetzeltes on the menu as well.QG‑13, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. ABJ ZUNFTHAUS ZUR HAUE The all-wood panelled walls make for a stately atmosphere in the refectory of the guild house Haue. Unsurprisingly, they serve traditional Swiss food here. The capuns, a pasta dough wrapped in leaves of white beef on a creamy sauce were tasty, the veal liver came very tender and the rösti crispy. The waiter was very attentive, just as it should be.QG‑13, Limmatquai 52, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 252 33 62, www.zunfthaus-zur-haue.ch. Open 10:00 - 22:00, closed Sun. €€. ABJ
INTERNATIONAL GARTENHOF This is an honest, straightforward restaurant with no frills whatsoever. Its ever-changing menu offers solid fare with some innovation. For a main course you can usually expect fish, meat and vegetarian options and we always appreciate the casual, yet attentive service here, while the food never disappoints. If you order red or white wines by the glass, the waiter simply brings the bottle to your table. Then you can drink as much as you like and pay for what you’ve consumed.QC‑12, Gartenhofstrasse 1, 8Werd, tel. (+41) 43 266 63 63, www.gartenhof.net. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€. AB PIC-CHIC Just off Bahnhofstrasse you’ll find Pic-Chic, which is like a mini street food festival designed in the trendy pop-up style. A handful of vendors joined forces here to serve tasty street fare including Chinese cuisine prepared by Wesley, one of the city’s finest Chinese chefs, sushi by The Chedi and tacos from La Chamaca, to name a few. After you order at one of the stalls you can have a seat and the food will be brought to you. It’s definitely a good place for a break as you can also just grab a drink or a coffee at the bar.QF‑12, Kuttelgasse 10, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 222 00 81, www.pic-chic .ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. ABJ facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette originally come from the French-speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. The listed restaurants below are specialists. CHÄSALP Chäsalp is a former farm on top of Zürichberg, where fondue and raclette are now served in the ancient stable. This gives you a kind of alpine-hut experience, which makes the extra bit of travel up the hill well worth it. While there are 17 different kinds of fondue on offer, we recommend sticking to the house blend or the classic moitié-moité. Take tram 5 or 6 (12 minutes from main station) to Kirche Fluntern and then bus 751 will drop you off right in front of the restaurant in only five minutes.QTobelhofstrasse 236, 8Tobelhof (Bus 751), tel. (+41) 44 260 75 75, www.chaesalp.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. AB LE DÉZALEY For decades Le Dézaley has been dedicated to dishes from Vaud in western Switzerland. The fondue prepared according to a family recipe is very tasty and also comes in a version with morel mushrooms. A typical starter is airdried meat.QG‑13, Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 61 29, www.le-dezaley.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 23:00. €€. ABJ RACLETTE FACTORY Raclette Factory offers the Swiss cheese speciality raclette in fast food-style portions at the counter. This gives you the opportunity to taste a handful of different cheese varieties on offer. After you’ve ordered you can take a seat at one of the wooden tables to enjoy this gooiest of Swiss treats. Take away and all-you-can eat is also available.QG‑12, Rindermarkt 1, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 04 10, www.raclette-factory.ch. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. €.AJ October – November 2018 19
VEGETARIAN & VEGAN TIBITS The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of tibits - where everybody queues up to choose from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. It’s more than plain tasty, believe us. tibits is very popular for lunch, dinner or coffee with all kinds of people. Sister restaurant ‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, (+41) 44 260 32 12 (open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 20:00).QH‑15, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 23:00, Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00, food served until 30 minutes before closing. (buffet, 4.20Sfr (take away 3.70Sfr) per 100 grams). ABSJ
MARKTKÜCHE Purely vegan, a contemporary interior and definitely finedining: the Marktküche convinced us even before the actual meal – e.g. with the selection of bread and spreads and an hors-d’oeuvre. The house tartar, served under a glass bell and a veil of smoke or the wonderfully delicate ravioli were equally testimony to the kitchen team’s skills. QC‑10, Feldstrasse 98, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 211 22 11, www.marktkueche.ch. Open 17:30 - 23:30, Sat 17:00 - 23:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A
4LEONI FIRENZE The spaghetti was firm, the succulent pieces of fried aubergine gave the tomato sauce the desired extra flavour and the ricotta cheese added on top not only pleased the eye, but added some real freshness to to dish. Yes, you could say that we were quite pleased with our meal and the easygoing waiter certainly made us feel like we were dining in Italy. That said, 4Leoni Firenze doesn’t only do great pasta, but also some other specialities from Tuscany like Polpette alla Fiorentina (meatballs) and the famous Bistecca Fiorentina (a T-bone from the grill). The Coccoloni family who owns the restaurant also runs a handful of successful establishments in Tuscany, which could explain its obvious authenticity. Lunch deals including water or a glass of wine and coffee can also be had for around 25Sfr. QD‑9, Luisenstrasse 43, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 271 00 66, www.4leoni-firenze.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30. €€. AB
GETTING THE BEST OUT OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.
Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant Bar Take Away Catering Seefeldstr.2|Falkenstr.12 next to the Opera House, Zurich www.tibits.ch|www.tibits.co.uk
20 Zurich In Your Pocket
Italian charm: the elegantly dressed waiters at Commercio.
COMMERCIO While the heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this small ristorante brings cinema and italianità together in the most charming way. It stays lively well into the night, thanks also to the visitors of the Arthouse studio cinemas right next door. Surrounded by Art Deco elements, guests squeeze into the slightly tight seats to enjoy a plate of pasta, something the Commercio has got off to a fine art. QH‑14, Mühlebachstrasse 2, 8Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 30, www.commercio.ch. Open 06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 23:00. €€. ABJ ORSINI The Orsini belongs to the Savoy hotel and is a fine traditional Italian restaurant frequented by many business people spilling over from the neighbouring financial district. The high rooms, the wood casing and the mirrors make for an appropriate atmosphere. The menu features pasta and many meat and fish specialities from Italy like fillet of john dory Livornese style or veal osobucco with risotto. High quality and pricey Italian food in a sublime zurich.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants setting.QF‑13, Waaggasse 3, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 215 27 27, www.orsiniristorante.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00, kitchen open until 21:30. €€€€. AJ ZUM GROBE ERNST - LA TAVOLATA The speciality here is Sardinian tavolata, an Italian-style sharing plate concept, which we tried and didn’t regret. The selection of starters we got looked great, but tasted even better. It was a genuine demonstration of the diversity of Sardinian cuisine. The aubergine au gratin with eggs was delightful, the mozzarella di buffala with tomatoes was incredibly fresh and the pulpo (octopus) was firm and not at all rubbery. This was followed by great pasta with salsiccia and saffron. This prelude set our expectations quite high for the main courses, which is why the lamb and the sea bass, satisfied but didn’t impress as much as the appetisers. Nevertheless, we had a pleasant evening. QG‑12, Stüssihofstatt 16, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 535 20 89, www.zumgrobeernst.com. Open 11:00 - 14:15, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:00, closed Sun. €€. ABJ
YOOJI’S DREIKÖNIG SUSHI & SAKE BAR As well as modern japanese cuisine, this trendy location in Zurich Enge boasts a sensational sake bar with a unique collection of sake, selected spirits and exquisite cocktails.
JAPANESE NEW YOOJI’S DREIKÖNIG Beethovenstr. 32 | 8002 Zürich EDOMAE +41 44 578 17 07 At Edomae the Japanese chef decides what you eat. That firstname.lastname@example.org | yoojis.com is, if you’ re lucky enough to get a seat as there are only Yoojis.Deli | yoojis_sushi eight available per Omakase, as the dinner performance is called. The chef prepares more than a dozen small courses (mainly small bites of raw fish, mussels and other seafood) right in front of you at the bar, explains what he prepared KOKORO and then, most importantly, how to eat it. For newbies like This small Japanese restaurant convinced us with great food YDK_Zurich-in-your-Pocket_Inserat_60x90_RZ.indd 1 14.11.17 and friendly service by the Japanese staff. After an excellent us it was news that you actually turn these nigiri creations upside down when eating them, so the flavours of the fish spicy tuna tartar, we continued with salmon and avocado and toppings like blossoms, sesame or Japanese pepper maki and finished off with a fried chicken gorgonzola sushi land on your tongue first and not the rice. It’s a remarkable roll, a truly novel taste experience. All the food was produced and different experience, as all of the compositions created directly in front of us. With the changing mix of traditional and fascinating flavours that were simply outstanding. The modern variations of Japanese cuisine, this is more than just experience is definitely recommended, and not just for another sushi bar. Recommended.QD‑10, Neufrankengasse sushi lovers. A menu including miso soup, dessert and 25, tel. (+41) 44 241 37 37, www.kokoro-restaurant.ch. coffee is 107Sfr (two sessions per evening, start 18:30 and Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:30 - 23:00, Sat 18:30 - 23:00, closed 19:30).QE‑13, Talstrasse 62, tel. (+41) 44 544 00 33, Mon, Sun, last orders 14:00/21:45. €€. AB www.edomae.ch. Open 10:00 - 20:00. €€€€. ABJ YOOJI’S DREIKÖNIG No matter if you prefer your sushi as a pleasant dinner at a table, a quick meal at the bar, as takeaway or from a kaiten (conveyor belt), the six Yooji’s locations in Zurich all serve good Japanese food. This one has an extended kaiten section, allowing you to sit face to face while the conveyor belt delivers your sushi. We enjoyed the friendly table service having chosen the mixed sushi-oke platter and had no regrets. There’s also a large selection of sake and some sake cocktails available at the bar or, if you’re a sake newbie like us, a taster set with three different sakes can also be had. Some other locations: Bellevue (H-14, St. Urbangasse 8), Langstrasse district (D-9, Josefstrasse 112), Seefeld (I-16, Seefeldstrasse 115).QF‑14, Beethovenstrasse 32, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 578 17 07, www.yoojis.com. Sushi on the conveyor belt and the latest news on the screen at Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€. AJ Yooji’s. PD facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
October – November 2018 21
Restaurants SWISS CUISINE What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti, a cake of fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla but also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland also has an impressive range of breads to go with the cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides.
TURM If you are not good at decisions, you will have a hard time choosing at the Turm: the vast menu features crocodile, kangaroo, beef, soups, salads, quesadillas and Mediterranean classics. The place is heavily decorated with plants and palms, contrasting with the old guild house it’s located in. Food is good and service fast - usually. The Turm is hidden in the upper part of Niederdorf. But it’s well known: just ask for directions.QG‑13, Obere Zäune 19, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 268 39 40, www.bei-tony.ch. Open 10:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 21:00, non-stop kitchen until 23:30. €€. ABJ
ORIENTAL BEBEK This restaurant is an architectural mezze platter: concrete walls, mosaic floors, high ceilings, chandeliers and a peekthrough window to the neighbouring tram shed. We love the mix of concrete and orient. The menu is dominated by food from Lebanon, Greece and Turkey. We tried the all-you-caneat mezze platter - and loved what we got: skewers of chicken and köfte, tabouleh, tzatziki mousaka and much more, everything was excellent. You can also order the different mezze as small portions. The service is a bit nonchalant, but friendly.QB‑12, Badenerstrasse 171, 8Kalkbreite, tel. (+41) 44 297 11 00, www.bebek.ch. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 23:00. €€. AB
MEDITERRANEAN BAR BASSO We like the style at the Basso - it’s modern and pure, without being super-cooled. The Italian-Alpine menu is also definitely worth a mention, offering e.g. tasty tartar, excellent cheese lasagne, served not in layers but open, so to speak and some great cuts of meat too. They also have a wood-fire oven for genuine pizze. If in doubt, go for the 5-course taster menu. The service is attentive and fresh, and on a sunny day, their colourful outdoor tables just overlooking the Sihl canal are a lovely place to enjoy a good cup of coffee.QE‑12, Sihlstrasse 59, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 497 25 28, www.barbasso.ch. Open 08:00 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. ABJ
The lively, yet laid-back bustle at Les Halles.
LES HALLES This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries) are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar. The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your order at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your table. It’s always very busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding fresh food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your significant other. There is also a delicatessen in the back.QB‑8, Pfingstweidstrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 13:45/22:00, Sat 18:00 - 22:00, snacks & tapas througout. €€. AB
MOUDI At Moudi they care about interior design. The big windows of the modern building are covered from the inside with a puzzle of smaller wooden windows, which makes for a homey atmosphere. For food they serve mezze, warm and cold oriental starters, mostly vegetarian. They are a treat! Go for the set platter, if choosing from the long list seems too exhausting to you. Splendid outdoor area towards the Schanzengraben moat.QE‑13, Brandschenkestrasse 5, 8Bahnhof Selnau, tel. (+41) 443 90 13 14, www.moudi-bar.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 02:00, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. ABJ
22 Zurich In Your Pocket
Restaurants SOUTH AMERICAN EL LUCHADOR Oh, the ceviche! The pungent cocktail of fish, chilli, coriander and lime juice is reason enough to visit El Luchador. But the other dishes on the small menu are full of flavour too. Soft maize tacos are the mainstay, with shrimps, meat or vegetables and always served with four freshly made sauces - add as you wish. Quite low-key, this is a great place for a few beers and no one will mind if the sauce doesn’t stay in the tacos. You might walk in on one of their occasional short film nights, or enjoy leafing through The New Yorker or Rolling Stone magazines.QE‑10, Konradstrasse 69, 8Museum für Gestaltung, tel. (+41) 44 271 72 00, www.elluchador.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 01:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open 18:00 - 22:30. (8 - 19Sfr, reckon three or more dishes for a full meal). AB PAPA CEVICHE At the Peruvian Papa Ceviche the mood is casual: a string of colourful light bulbs hanging from the ceiling and South American melodies make for a laid-back atmosphere. The food concept is tapas style as you order small plates to share. More than a handful of different ceviches (raw fish, citrus juices, spices like coriander and chillies) make sure the place lives up to its name. Other dishes are spare ribs, calamari or chicken wings for example. We liked the food, especially the ceviche Sol Papa with tilapia, sweet potato and mango. What they serve though may be less modelled on Peruvian traditions and more on European urban trends. It’s rather pricey though as one can eat easily five of those plates. The service was not very friendly unfortunately.QC‑12, Badenerstrasse 101, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. (+41) 44 525 00 80, www.papaceviche.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. (6 - 16Sfr per dish).
SPANISH BODEGA ESPANOLA If you’re looking for no-nonsense Spanish charm in Zurich the Bodega is the place to head for. After an ‘hola’ from the waiter, choose from the tapas on display at the counter: squid salad, figs wrapped in bacon, chicken wings etc. (around 6Sfr each). A must-try is the excellent tortilla. Then take a seat at one of the large tables – a short chat comes easy as
A stylish place for carnivores: Napa Grill.
you’ll probably be sharing with other guests. The waiters will also be pleased to put together a selection of tapas for you. Agree on a maximum price to avoid surprises. For dining in a slightly more classy atmosphere visit the Sala Marisco on the first floor.QG‑13, Münstergasse 15, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 23 10, www.bodega-espanola.ch. Open 10:00 24:00, kitchen open until 23:00. €€. AJ
STEAKS & BARBECUE NEW NAPA GRILL Napa Grill is dedicated to US prime beef cooked on a woodfired grill and wine from the Napa Valley in California. We chose the spicy gazpacho with crab legs for a starter, a spicy opening to a pleasant evening. As a main we picked the porterhouse steak, a US-cut that includes part of the tenderloin fillet, and received a juicy, flavour-packed piece of meat grilled medium rare, just as ordered. The grilled vegetables on the side were also cooked perfectly. Thankfully, our friendly waiter was happy to share his extensive knowledge with US-wine novices like us who had a difficult time navigating the vast wine list. After three different tasters, we selected a Pott 100% Cabernet Sauvignon in our price range (85Sfr) and were won over by its full-bodied flavour and soft tannins. QD‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 130, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 289 80 80, www.napagrill.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 18:00 - 22:30, closed Sun. €€€. AB
Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
October – November 2018 23
Restaurants GAME SEASON Autumn is hunting season in Switzerland’s woods and mountains, and some of the game (called Wild in German) finds its way to many of Zurich’s traditional Swiss restaurants. Jugged venison or rehpfeffer is one of the most popular dishes, but occasionally you’ll find roast venison or wild boar, which may be served grilled or as a roast. The oppulent side dishes are nearly as important, typically consisting of red cabbage, steamed pear, lingonberry sauce, Brussels sprouts, glazed chestnuts and egg pasta called spätzli or chnöpfli. Game has many fans, some look forward to the season all year! If you like meat in general, you’ll most probably become a fan, too. Hunting has a long tradition in Switzerland, but don’t be fooled: nowadays the local hunt can’t keep up with the demand for venison, so ¾ of it is imported, a lot from farms overseas. We would recommend going to a restaurant that has local game on the menu, not just for environmental reasons. We list a few places below that usually serve game in autumn, though not always and only from local hunts. Local game is always subject to availabilty, so we recommend checking by phone quickly before you go. CAFÉ BOY In autumn, chef Jann M. Hoffmann usually has some game dishes on the menu.QB‑11, Kochstrasse 2, 8Zypressenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 240 40 24, www.cafeboy.ch. Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. Sat & Sun closed. DIE WAID Many game dishes throughout autumn.QA‑4, Waidbadstrasse 45, 8Waidbadstrasse (bus), tel. (+41) 43 422 08 08, www.diewaid.ch. Open 08:00 - 23:30. BUTCHERS TABLE At the Butchers Table it’s all about the meat, be it beef, Black Iberian pork or veal. Choose your meat at the display counter, but don’t be afraid to ask for a private consultation from the butcher himself. He convinced us to pick the so-called ‘second cuts’ of beef, which are essentially less common pieces (at least around here), instead of the more popular tenderloins and fillets. We have to admit that the outside skirt and the hanging tender we chose were quite flavourful and surprisingly tender. The pieces you choose are grilled and then brought to your table on a wooden cutting board to share (pay by weight). The Butchers Choice Deal includes a bowl of salad, a side of fries and even some cooked marrow as a tasty starter. The bone shot (after the marrow is removed, the waiter pours some vodka through a bone directly into your mouth) is more like a test of your gag reflex than anything else, but it certainly spiced up our evening QJ‑16, Neumünsterstrasse 34, 8Hegibachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 577 56 88, www.butcherstable.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, closed Mon, Sun. €€€. AB 24 Zurich In Your Pocket
SWISS As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see box Swiss cuisine p. 22), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box on p. 19. We list the traditional Zurich beer halls in a separate category overleaf. They serve generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either.
Dining below Picassos and Miròs at Kronenhalle.
AU-GUST (WIDDER HOTEL) Black and white tiling, industrial style lamps and an open kitchen: the Au-Gust definitely looks stylish. But it’s not only looks - the food is a treat too. They major on meat, not on steaks like everyone else but on cold cuts, sausages, terrines, carpaccios and innards (well, beef filet is available too). Our fleischkäse (Swiss style meat loaf ) was bursting with flavour. We’re not usually passionate about innards, but the tripe Zurich style with its spicy sauce changed our minds on this one. No reservations - in case there is no space, you can simply wait in the in-house Widder bar until they call you.QF‑12, Rennweg 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 28 28, www.au-gust.ch. Open 11:30 - 22:15, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:15, breakfast 06:30 - 10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30 - 11:00. €€. ABJ KRONENHALLE The Kronenhalle is Zurich’s most legendary restaurant: top bankers, artists, authors, editors-inchief and celebrities come to the famous brasserie on Bellevueplatz as well as a mix of (well-dressed) ordinary people. Lots of dark wood and original paintings by Mirò and Picasso on the walls give the brasserie its classic, yet old-fashioned look. The food (schnitzel with cucumber salad, bouillon with liver dumplings) is good to be sure, if a bit pricey, but many people simply come here to see and be seen. There is a salon for private dinners and a cocktail bar.QG‑14, Rämistrasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 262 99 00, www.kronenhalle.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, kitchen open until 23:15. €€€€. AXJ zurich.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants MOHRENKOPF This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare, coffee and snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area, frequented by tourists and locals alike. The menu offers classics like chalbsgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size pieces) with rösti (hash browns) as well as more unusual dishes like capuns, an Alpine speciality of sausage and dumpling wrapped in chard leaves. Try them, they’re a treat. If you fancy a sweet to round off the meal, try a mohrenkopf, a chocolate covered marshmallow that gave the restaurant its name.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 31, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 262 05 45, www.mohrenkopf.info. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. €€. ABJ SPITZ Spitz is located in the old section of the recently expanded Swiss National Museum. The restaurant with its high ceiling supported by ornamented columns is impressive and the dark green timbers give the room a relaxing touch. The cuisine here is playful, and to be honest, a little experimental. The grilled lettuce with lemongrass vervain sauce we had for a starter was excellent and the lamb from the surrounding Swiss mountains was a real treat. We finished off our dining experience with an inventive blueberry mousse with cashew nuts and a touch of lavender. An impressive wine list that includes some natural wines is also available, but
An impressive high ceiling at Spitz.
if you’re in a hurry you might also try its bistro section, which provides simpler menus, or the bar specialising in whiskey. In short, Spitz is a good option if you’d like to experiment with local cuisine in an interesting setting. QG‑10, Museumstrasse 2, 8Bahnofquai / HB, tel. (+41) 44 221 94 77, www.restaurantspitz.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, bistro open daily from 10:00 (closed Mon), bar open 17:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. €€€. ABJ
niederdorfstrasse 31 — 8001 zürich
continuing a tradition
October – November 2018 25
Restaurants BEER HALLS BRASSERIE FEDERAL This is a beer lover’s paradise: More than 100 different Swiss beers are sold in this huge hall situated inside the main train station. You can try seven at one blow: for 10.50Sfr the waiter will serve you seven beers from the tap in small glasses (1dl). Food is Swiss-style, hearty and served fast: pasta with minced meat, bratwurst or rösti with bacon and raclette cheese.QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 217 15 15, www.brasserie-federal.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, kitchen open until 22:30. €. AJ
RÜSTEREI Located in a former paper mill, the Rüsterei is a popular restaurant. Rightly so, we think: the seven-metre high room within the innovative Sihlcity mall complex is impressive. You can still feel its industrial past, which contrasts with the elegant furnishings. The modern interpretation of Swiss and international cuisine is very convincing, the atmosphere is nice and the service attentive. In the Kantine section they offer simpler food all day.QKalanderplatz 6, 8Sihlcity Nord, tel. (+41) 44 317 19 19, www.ruesterei. ch. Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, closed Sun, Kantine & Bar open 10:00 - 24:00, Sunday brunch only 10:00 - 14:30. AB
WEISSER WIND This rustic tavern serves typical hearty Zurich fare like cordon bleu, geschnetzeltes, hörnli maccaroni with minced meat and the like - all in very solid quality. Beware of the devil’s noodles (teufelsnudeln) with beef cubes - they really are hot, a challenge even for experienced chilli fans. Service is friendly and the beers come quickly - not a bad place for experiencing some local cuisine and charm.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 20, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 18 45, www.weisserwind.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€. J Industrial chic meets high gastronomy at Rüsterei.
Offers hearty traditional Swiss cuisine at affordable prices. Centrally located on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz.
open daily for reservations
26 Zurich In Your Pocket
11.30 – 23.00 +41 (0) 44 220 15 15 www.zeughauskeller.ch
WIRTSCHAFT IM FRANZ If a long menu makes you nervous, Wirtschaft im Franz might just be the alternative you’ve been looking for as only a handful of dishes is available here for each course. It’s that simple and we were pleasantly surprised to discover that there are nearly as many imaginative vegetarian options as there are meat and fish dishes. Wooden tables and deep black chairs make for a relaxed atmosphere in this courtyard building where the food is seasonal and of local origin. Some offerings can even be described as daring, yet the quality is consistently extraordinary. The service is also outstanding, and can best be summed up as casual, yet attentive. Recommended.QB‑12, Bremgartnerstrasse 18, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 43 558 44 22, www.wirtschaftimfranz.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. AB ZEUGHAUSKELLER The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is situated in a mediaeval arsenal right on Bahnhofstrasse and serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big tables with other guests. Old military devices standing around are there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, or you might end up getting conscripted.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28a, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 220 15 15, www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, kitchen open until 22:00. €. ABJ zurich.inyourpocket.com
Excellent coffee and juices as well as a hip crowd at Juicery 21.
Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many double as bars in the evening rather than closing. BOVELLI Bovelli is a stylish café right in the city centre. Its high ceiling, elegant wooden tables and designer lamps make for a smart atmosphere. The drinks and the food on offer are written on the huge blackboard behind the bar. In addition to the myriad coffee variations and blends, it also has plenty of desserts and some snacks, but if you head over here later in the day for a break from shopping, you can try one of many tasty cocktails. In fact, the owners seem to have transferred their passion for mixed drinks from their other successful endeavours, namely the bars Dante and Le Raymond.QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 20, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 210 40 60, www.bovelli.ch. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, closed Sun. AJ NEW JUICERY 21 The name says it all. Enjoy freshly squeezed juices from good old orange to fancier mixes with ginger and cucumber. This cool place is slightly hidden next to the City swimming pool and offers huge windows and white tiles behind the bar. Order food like Açaí bowls and porridge for breakfast or bagels and quinoa bowls for lunch. The quinoa with mango, nuts and avocado we had was simply excellent. The young and hip crowd that frequents this place appreciates the abundant magazines, the small outdoor area and the easy-going style here and in case you’re wondering, yes, they do a wide variety of coffees here, too.QE‑12, Sihlstrasse 93, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 221 93 95, www.juicery21.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. ABJ KAFI DIHEI A little off the tourist trail in the Wiedikon district, this is one of our favourite places for breakfast and coffee facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
breaks. With a mix of old furniture and wallpaper covered in flower bouquets, Dihei (At Home) has a touch of your grandmother’s living room, which seems to put everyone at ease. It serves breakfast every day until 16:00 including the Swiss-style meal with different types of bread, butter and jam, or the more hearty option with scrambled eggs, bacon and sausages, a good choice if you’re still dealing with the consequences of last night’s pub crawl. You can also get burgers, schnitzel, chèvre chaud (warm goat cheese) and the like for lunch and dinner. We love the quality of the food and the dedication of the staff, not to mention the lovely outdoor seating area. You can’t make a reservation on the weekend, but queuing up will usually get you a place to sit within a few minutes.QA‑12, Zurlindenstrasse 231, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 557 43 48, www.kafidihei. ch. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. AB PÉCLARD IM SCHOBER What looks from outside like a small, simple pastry shop is in fact one of the city’s oldest coffeehouses. It’s very busy, especially on weekends. Get a seat on one of the tables scattered over the various storeys of this oldtown-house and let the waiter serve you coffee or a hot chocolate together with one of the sweet sins you can choose from the display cabinet by the entrance. Though it‘s not run by the Schober family anymore, stepping in here is a little trip back in time to the belle epoque.QG‑13, Napfgasse 4, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 51 50, www.peclard-zurich.ch. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. ABJ
BREAKFAST Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, which is served with butter, jam, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads rye bread, corn bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yogurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Here are some of our favourite breakfast places: KAFI DIHEI Breakfast served daily (except Tuesdays) until 16:00. Enjoy different variations of the Swiss meal with a variety of breads and jams or a hearty hangover breakfast.Q see overleaf. JUICERY 21 This cool city centre venue serves porridge and Açaí bowls for breakfast - in addition to freshly squeezed juices, that is. Q see overlaf. October – November 2018 27
Nightlife Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas are Niederdorf in the old town (G-11/13), the streets around Langstrasse (C/D-10/11) and Zurich West (B/C-7/8). There is a lively club scene, but with dozens of bars around, bar-hopping can be just as much fun. A night out in Zurich can be great, but also quite expensive. Most venues take credit cards, but if you’re heading for bars and clubs, have some cash handy as some still have minimums for cards. If you prefer it on the quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old town, around Paradeplatz and elsewhere. Check out more listings and recommendations at www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.
Feel like you’re in the living room of a music enthusiast at Kasheme.
A Credit cards accepted
N No credit cards
J City centre location X Separate smoker’s lounge
NEW KASHEME While many bars claim to have a living room-style atmosphere, Kasheme actually does look and feel like a living room. One owned by a music enthusiast that is. Vinyl records, musical instruments, sofas with colourful pillows and a huge tentacle like lamp festooned with a dozen or so old school shades create a genuinely cosy atmosphere here. From Wednesday to Saturday you can not only listen to DJs and musicians playing records, but also other personalities who play what they listen to at home at so-called listening sessions. Sometimes live acts perform and there’s actually a small dance floor in the studio in the basement. It’s also a vinyl record store until 19:00 offering a well-curated selection of records. You see, music really is king here, but don’t worry as the bar is also well-curated.QD‑9, Neugasse 56, 8Limmatplatz, www.kasheme.com. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri 17:00 - 04:00, Sat 15:00 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00, closed Mon. A
CASUAL BARS ANDORRA This small place with its jazz-inspired atmosphere offers everything a classic bar needs: five beers on tap (Guiness and different types of the local Chopfab), an international selection of bottled beers (yes, think craft beers) and an excellent choice of single malts, cocktails and wines. If you’re feeling peckish they serve sandwiches and some tapas. Most of the time the music is pre-recorded, but they have the occasional live band in from time to time.QG‑13, Münstergasse 20, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 252 65 70, www.andorra.ch. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 04:00. AJE CALVADOS With the walls covered in historic photos of sport stars and the TVs that are almost always on, it quickly becomes obvious - Calvados is a sports bar. The TVs mainly show soccer, but other sports like ice hockey and golf too, sometimes even two different events are showing on separate screens. But with the great selection of beers, cocktails, spirits and some snacks (try their sandwiches!), Calvados is also an option if you’re not that into sports - especially in summer where the outside seating on Idaplatz square is the top scorer.QA‑12, Idaplatz 4, 8Bertastrasse, tel. (+41) 43 960 08 10, www.lecalvados.ch. Open 16:00 - late, Sat & Sun 15:00 - late. A 28 Zurich In Your Pocket
WIDDER GARAGE The Widder Garage was set up as the temporary home of the Widder Bar while it was being renovated. And while the original bar is quite upmarket, the Garage is like a younger brother: cheekier and more daring, but from the same good family. The bar in this former old town garage is actually made of pianos, the beers are cooled in a bathtub and hundreds of vinyl records on the shelves lend it a retro touch that we absolutely love. But make no mistake: the service and the cocktails are just as good as at the original location and many of the single malts and rare spirits for which the Widder is so famous are also available here. The original Widder has since reopened, but the Garage will continue to impress its patrons.QF‑13, Augustinerhof 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 27 72, www.widderhotel.com. Wed, Thu 17:30 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 17:30 - 02:00, closed Mon, Tue, Sun. AJ
CRAFT BEER BARS ELDORADO This eldorado is one for beer experts. At this cool joint they have 101 different beers on offer, many of them craft beers from small breweries from Switzerland and around the world. There are many specialities, for example from Belgium, some of which seem more in the champagne league to us. If you want to drink your way through the whole beer list, you can become an El Dorado. But you might need zurich.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife more than one evening. Ask the barmen for your personal card. Occasional concerts.QE‑9, Limmatstrasse 109, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 43 540 90 31, www.eldorado -zh.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 20:00 - 02:00, Closed Sun. AE THE ALEHOUSE With 21 different craft beers on draught and on the hand pump, Alehouse is one of the best-stocked bars of its genre in town. You’re guaranteed to find a brew that suits you here, be it a hoppy IPA, a Belgian amber or perhaps a chocolate stout. A good number of the beers on offer also happen to be local, but you’ll find a complete list of what’s currently available on its website. The bartender is usually happy to give you a taster before ordering and the pub-like atmosphere is a favourite of students and expats, many of whom speak English. If you feel the need to strap on the old feedbag, they also do classic bar fare like burgers, fish and chips, chicken and salads.QH‑10, Universitätstrasse 23, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 542 87 45, www.alehouse.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. AK
Up there, try to get a table at the window, order a cocktail at the bar and take in the view of Zurich’s old town with the lake and the Alps in the background. For lunch they serve soups, salads, seafood and meat from the Brasserie Lipp, in the evening it’s a bar only.QF‑12, Uraniastrasse 9, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 888 66 66, www.jules-verne.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 23:00 A RIVE GAUCHE The Rive Gauche bar attracts a mixed crowd: the guests of the five-star hotel Baur au Lac in whose premises the bar is situated mix with the young city crowd. With the dark wooden bar, the mirrors on the wall and the living-roomlike lampshades the bar looks classic British with a touch of modernity. A good place for cocktails and drinks right in the centre of the city. They have a lovely terrace for balmy summer evenings. The Rive Gauche is also a restaurant with good, rather pricey meat and seafood on the menu.QF‑14, Talstrasse 1, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 220 50 60, www.agauche.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 01:00. Closed Sun. AJK
It’s all about beer at the Alehouse.
THE INTERNATIONAL This bar is dedicated to craft beers from small breweries. They have a great choice of around 50 different ones from all around Switzerland on offer, and another 50 from around the world, many from Belgium, the US and Canada. Around 10 are on tap. The huge board on the wall behind the bar lists them grouped by types, like India pale ales, stouts, amber etc. to help you choose. Or tell the barkeeper what taste you like and he will be happy to help. Despite the many Swiss beers, lots of expats are regulars here. While the bar looked a touch too sterile when they opened, it now has the feel of a proper beer joint. You love craft beers? You will like it here.QD‑9, Luisenstrasse 7, 8Röntgenstrasse, www.theinternational.ch. Open 16:00 - 24:00. A
CLASSY BARS JULES VERNE PANORAMA BAR (BRASSERIE LIPP) Located in the same tower as the Urania observatory close to Bahnhofstrasse, the Jules Verne bar boasts a spectacular view over Zurich’s city centre. Enter the Brasserie Lipp and take the elevator on the right hand side straight to the top. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
BAR 63 When the new owners took over in 2009, this venue (established in 1963) had seen better days. However, they were wise enough to only give it a facelift, conserving its 1960s charm, so now it’s not what one would call fancy, but it’s all the more likeable. There is an ever-changing selection of cocktails available and the variety of whiskeys and rum is enormous. There are, for example, roughly 100 rums from 25 countries, including unusual offerings from such exotic places as Nepal. They also sell a couple of wines by the glass and it’s generally a good place for a laid-back start to an evening out in the Langstrasse district.QD‑10, Rolandstrasse 19, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 75 83, www.bar63.ch. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A
CASINO SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH More than 350 slot machines and the table games roulette, black jack, punto banco and texas hold’em poker on two floors make this casino the largest in Switzerland. The stakes on the table games set in at 2 Sfr – with practically no upper limit. For your physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge. The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed and have a valid ID card or passport with you. The entrance fee is 10 CHF after 19:00.QE‑12, Gessnerallee 3-5, 8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 330 30 30, www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, table games start at 14:00. October – November 2018 29
Nightlife TALES At this bar they really are dedicated to the fine art of making cocktails. And yes, think way further than a classy Old Fashioned. The cocktail list is bound in fine leather and features fancy variations of the recent trend of cocktails with kitchen herbs as well as classics and variations. But you can also just tell the barkeepers (and owners) Michel and Wolfgang the style of cocktail and kind of tastes you like, and they will surprise you with one of their creations. Their spirits library is huge. A classy bar for cocktail lovers. And who isn’t one these days?QE‑12, Selnaustrasse 29, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 542 38 02, www.tales-bar.ch. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. AJ
WINE BARS GAMPER BAR This wine bar is run by the owners of the successful Gamper restaurant. We like the sober atmosphere of the locale that’s set by the plywood bar, the simple metal rack in the corner and the reddish leather chairs with some original patina. The glass mosaic on the window frames and part of the ceiling also act as a welcome contrast. Ask the barkeeper for the wines that are currently served by the glass as he’ll be more than happy to recommend something that suits your taste. They also have a comprehensive list of mainly European wines sold by the bottle and offer some cold dishes like the delicious mozzarella with Speck (lardo) and fennel seeds we had or other snacks like olives, boquerones, salamettli and the like. The music is provided by an old vinyl player, which only adds to the stylish and easy-going atmosphere here. QC‑10, Dienerstrasse 75, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 43 243 78 78, www.gamper-bar.ch. Open 16:00 - 24:00, closed Mon, Sun. A
sold here by the glass. As appetizers we can recommend mostbröckli, local dried meat or a choice of Swiss cheese. In nice weather you can take your wineglass up to the rooftop terrace (there is a lift) where you are beautifully surrounded by old town houses - a real hidden gem. QG‑12, Hirschengasse 6, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 43 268 33 33, www.hirschen-zuerich.ch. Open 16:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. AJ
DANCE BARS LONGSTREET Hundreds of dimly gleaming old-fashioned light bulbs on the ceiling and the red plush on the wall make you think you are entering a burlesque strip bar of the old days. But don‘t be spoofed: there have been no half-naked girls dancing on stage in this bar for years. Instead the hip crowd has taken over to party all week long: the small dance floor upstairs with a DJ is packed almost every night.QD‑11, Langstrasse 92, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 21 72, www.longstreetbar.ch. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Closed Sun. AX TALACKER The Talacker is still very popular with the city centre’s hip crowd. They kept the shabby style of the old café it once was and mixed it with wall paper decorated with huge dogs - just too cool to be true. Have an Asian-style lunch (soups, curries, 11:45 - 15:00), or simply mingle with Zurich’s twenty- and thirty-somethings having fun to the DJ’s records. Usually it is too crowded to dance, but don’t hesitate to give it a go, if you find half a square metre to do so.QE‑13, Talacker 41, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 211 20 50, www.talackerbar.ch. Open 11:45 - 24:00, Thu 11:45 - 01:00, Fri 11:45 - 02:30, Sat 16:00 - 02:30, closed Sun. AJK
ALTERNATIVE BARS Zurich’s nightlife offers some great alternative bars - check out our listings below. When heading to one of these bars, make sure you have cash handy, as some of them do not take credit cards.
Perfect for an extended apero: Gamper Bar.
WEINSCHENKE (HOTEL HIRSCHEN) This delicately lit historic vaulted cellar has a great atmosphere for a wine tavern. The Weinschenke is located in the building of the hotel Hirschen and is entered from the small street (Hirschengasse) on the right-hand side of the hotel. Sit at the wooden tables and enjoy a glass of one of the 12 bottled wines that are 30 Zurich In Your Pocket
MARS BAR Opened many years ago by Rolle - you will recognize him by the toothpick in his mouth - the Mars Bar has become the home of supporters of the local football team FC Zurich (see their games live on a big HD screen, as well as German bundesliga every Saturday at 15:00). Rock music lovers also hang out here, in fact anyone who doesn‘t really give a damn about what happens to be the taste of the moment. Get some goat’s cheese or a sausage for a snack - or ask for Zwickelbier from Müllerbräu, something Rolle brought with him from his past, when he was a barkeeper in the suburbs of Zurich.QD‑10, Neufrankengasse 15, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 322 03 77, www.marsbar.ch. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. NX zurich.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife SAFARI BAR A simple, cool bar frequented by locals, just off the main pedestrian street in Niederdorf. Come here for a chat with your friends at one of the tables - or grab a seat at the long bar where it is easy to get talking to others. In the background there is usually rock music - and if you have a drink in mind which is not on the menu - just ask for it. If they have the ingredients, they will be happy to prepare it for you.QG‑11, Zähringerstrasse 29, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 262 12 40, www.safaribar.ch. Open 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. AJ
PUBS & DRINKERIES
Retro light bulbs and bright red colours at Longstreet.
EDI’S WEINSTUBE At Edi’s, elderly regulars mix with youngsters and students making for an interesting combination of generations. The exceptionally low prices (from 3Sfr per dl wine, 21Sfr per bottle!) might be one reason for the popularity of the bar regardless of age, but Edi’s has some rather special features beyond the bargain prices: the bar is a porn art museum and a wine shop too (7.90Sfr per bottle for take away, 2.60
a 5dl can of beer, Fri & Sat take away only until 22:00). Every month, a new artist displays works of a more or less carnal kind. But don’t get the wrong impression, this brightly coloured bar isn’t smutty.QG‑12, Stuessihofstatt 14, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 61 57, www.weinstube.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 22:00. NJ
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT If you’re male and looking for the so-called ‘sins of the flesh,’ then Zurich has a lot to offer. Prostitution is legal in Switzerland, so you can find everything from strip bars and erotic massages to sex clubs and escort services in Zurich. While hardly an alpine Amsterdam, Zurich is an inviting destination if you’re looking for carnal pleasures and sexy ladies in various states of undress. Prostitution is not only legal but is also regulated by the city. Sex clubs need permission to operate and this is only granted if a business follows all of the security, health, social security and tax regulations, doesn’t place any undue pressure on the sex workers, ensures their health and guarantees violence prevention. For all these reasons, sex clubs are probably the best and safest option if you’re looking for sex in Zurich. Street prostitution is also regulated, but is only permitted in a few areas (i.e. Häringstrasse in the Niederdorf district) and only at certain times.
Here are some reputable strip bars and massage parlours. Check our website www.zurich.inyourpocket.com for more listings and sex clubs. We believe the places we list to be upstanding businesses, but we still recommend employing simple common sense when delving into the world of adult entertainment. SECRET TANTRA Sensual erotic massages and tantric love rituals. Check its website www.secret-tantra.ch for details or call for an appointment.QVolketswil, tel. (+41) 77 267 72 02, www.secret-tantra.ch. MAXIM On the stage of the Maxim in Niederdorf the ladies have been stripping since 1931. Sit on one of the sofas, relax and enjoy.QG‑13, Schoffelgasse 2, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 70 30, www.nightclub -maxim.ch. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00.
SECRET TANTRA sensual massages and love rituals incall & outcall
+41 77 267 72 02 | secret-tantra.ch facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
October – November 2018 31
Nightlife LIVE MUSIC VENUES Zurich offers all kinds of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands playing somewhere every night of the week. The clubs and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell you what you can usually expect. Some are just open if there is a concert. For their daily programme, check the websites - or find all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch. MEHRSPUR This is the music club and bar of the Zurich University of the Arts. It features a bar on the ground level and a subterranean concert hall. They usually have concerts on many days of the week and on Fri & Sat there are sometimes after-show parties.QA‑7, Förrlibuckstrasse 109, 8Toni Areal, tel. (+41) 43 446 50 86, www.mehrspur.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon 11:00 - 23:00, Tue 11:00 - 01:00, Wed 11:00 - 23:30, Sat 17:00 - 01:00, closed Sun. MOODS With more than 230 concerts a year, the Moods is Zurich’s prime address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and world music. Big international names as well as many Swiss artists. After-show parties on the weekend.QB‑7, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80 00, www.moods.ch.
KAUFLEUTEN The Kaufleuten club is an institution in Zurich’s nightlife: the rich, the beautiful and wannabes like us queue up almost every weekday to party, mostly to electronic music and disco-house sounds (sometimes party tunes, r’n’b and hip hop or reggaeton). Dress to impress is the motto, and for some people here looking the part seems to be very important. Nevertheless, it’s a good place for a classy night out.QF‑13, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, www.kaufleuten.com. Open usually Tue, Fri & Sat 23:00 - 04:00/05:00, other days check programme. Admission around 25Sfr. AJXE MINIROCK With the opening of Minirock, lovers of rock, indie punk and the like finally have a new place to call home in Zurich. With strips of multi-coloured neon lights covering the ceiling and the wall, at first glance this small club actually puts one in mind of a retro disco lounge, but the crowd in black t-shirts with Motörhead logos and the huge guitar amplifier behind the bar make it clear that this is a place for some good old rock fun. But don’t worry. You’ll also fit in here even if you don’t look like Slash from Guns N’ Roses. Just grab a beer at the bar and get ready to rock!QA‑11, Badenerstrasse 281, 8Zypressenstrasse, www.minirockzh.ch. Wed 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 02:00, Fri 17:00 - 04:00, Sat 20:00 - 04:00, closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Sometimes admission around 5Sfr, more for concerts. A
KENNEDY’S IRISH PUB The Kennedy’s is an Irish pub with a large outdoor area, located close to the main train station. It’s popular with expats and locals alike. They have Guinness, Smithwicks and Magners Cider on tap and really helpful and friendly staff and of course all the major sports on different flat and big screens. Besides burgers, salads and sandwiches they do some genuine pies, for example a beef and Guinness one we liked very much. Pub Quiz on Monday nights!QE‑11, Freischützgasse 14, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 44 241 92 94, www.kennedys.ch. Open 11:30 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00, Kitchen closes 22:00. AJEK
Rock music fans finally have a place to call home at Minirock. ZIYP
ICON Located in the same 300 year-old old town house as the Tao restaurant, the small Icon club is a rather special clubbing venue. To fit in, you should dress up and be at least 20 or years of age (depending on the night). The wooden beams on the ceiling give the dance floor something of a historical touch. The music which is usually somewhere between house, mash up, party tunes and deep house, however, is not more special than anywhere else.QF-13, St. Petergasse 1, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 448 11 33, www.icon-club.ch. Usually open Fri & Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Fri no admission, Sat around 25Sfr. AJ
PLAZA The Plaza bis a big club with two dance floors (and yes, you can smoke on the smaller one!). DJ’s play sounds from mash up, 90s and 80s, r’n’b to disco, house and other electronic music. The Plaza is popular with all kinds of people - a good place to end your bar tour around Langstrasse. Thursday students night, free admission for students before 23:00. QC‑12, Badenerstrasse 109, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. (+41) 44 542 90 90, www.plaza-zurich.ch. Club open Thu 22:00 - late, Fri & Sat 23:00 - late. Bar open Tue - Fri 17:00 - late, Sat 18:00 - late. Admission Fri & Sat around 25Sfr. AXE
32 Zurich In Your Pocket
Zurich Nord The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are now home to many international companies, the trade fair, some hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You definitely don’t have to go to the city centre to have a good night out.
RESTAURANTS GIESSEREI OERLIKON The Giesserei has made itself a name as a fine dining restaurant, though the place still has a feel like the last workers just left this ancient foundry a couple of weeks ago. The menu is simple: every day there are a few different starters, main courses and desserts - an international mix according to the season and the desires of the kitchen crew. Recommended.QF‑2, Birchstrasse 108, 8Regensbergerbrücke, tel. (+41) 43 205 10 10, www.diegiesserei.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 17:30 - 24:00, closed Sun. €€. AB
pleasing surrounding.QG‑1, Affolternstr. 52, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 288 94 45, www.perron9.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, closed Mon, Sat, Sun, bistro Gleis 9 open daily 10:00 - 24:00. €€. AB TIBITS OERLIKON The bounteous vegetarian buffet is also the focal point of the tibits branch in Zurich Nord. Choose from around 40 homemade salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. Take it from us, it’s more than just tasty and many of the dishes are actually not just vegetarian, but vegan. The colourful wallpaper and the modern designer lamps make for the typical airy urban tibits atmosphere. A kids’ corner is available in the basement and, yes, all the food can be ordered as takeaway.QH‑1, Tramstrasse 2, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 317 25 55, www.tibits.ch. Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €. AB TRES AMIGOS The nine exisiting Tres Amigos restaurants prove the success of the simple concept: tasty Texmex food and drinks in a colorful Mexican setting including the compulsory sombrero on the wall. The branch in Zurich Nord is much the same: nachos, enchilladas, fajitas, tacos - it’s all there for you. As well as meat like spare ribs or beef fillet skewers and sea food like shrimps.QG‑1, Querstrasse 16, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 311 82 52, www.tresamigos.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Wed 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:30 - 23:00, kitchen open all day until 22:30, Fri & Sat 23:30. €€. AB
NIGHTLIFE Everybody loves the vegetarian buffet at tibits.
KAI Close to the Oerlikon train station, the Kai is a classic sushi bar with a modern and stylish decor complete with conveyor belt: sit at the counter and grab one of the maki, nigiri or uramaki running by. Or simply ask the chef on the other side to make your favourite creation. There are tables as well and a lot more than just sushi: menu deals, fried noodles, meat... Saturday & Sunday night there is all you can eat sushi for 69Sfr - book seats in advance.QEllen-WidmannWeg 2, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 538 42 47, www.kaisushi.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:30 - 23:00, Kitchen open until 22:00. €€. AB PERRON 9 The culinary concept at Perron 9 is focussed on high quality meat - entrecôte, roast chicken, or something from the charcoal grill - and includes some nice touches of traditional Alpine cuisine, like sauerkraut or pumpkin seeds. You’ll also find fish or vegetarian dishes on the menu. The industrial-age rooms with the cast-iron pillars make for a facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
COOPER’S PUB Located just next to Oerlikon train station (and in walking distance of the Swissôtel and the Courtyard Marriott), the Cooper’s with its whiskey barrels and dark wooden floor and panels, brings an Irish pub feel to this part of town. They of course have Murphy’s Red and Guinness on tap, all the sports on TV and serve really affordable burgers. There are also fish & chips, pies and salads on the menu. Occasionally concerts. Cheers!QH‑1, Schaffhauserstrasse 359, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 76 261 00 30, www.coopers-pub.ch. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. AK JAIME EL BARCO The Jaime is a bar with a South American touch in Zurich Nord, just next to the Courtyard Marriott. Hot panini for a snack, a frozen daiquiri or a margarita from the cocktail menu or a beer will cheer you up after a hard day of walking or working. There is table football and darts - quite some entertainment in this part of the city.QOtto-Schütz-Weg 5, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 310 21 70, www.jaime.ch. Open 09:00 14:00, 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun.E October – November 2018 33
The Schipfe riverside in the old town on an autumn morning. | Zurich Tourism
Zurich’s largely intact medieval town on the one hand and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms. It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries showing international art. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are usually closed on Mondays.
MAIN SIGHTS If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches. Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot today, while the central police station is another unlikely lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak. FRAUMÜNSTER Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by this Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more than just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times 34 Zurich In Your Pocket
in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof ) was used to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due. Since summer 2016 the crypt is open to visitors. Be considerate, no photos, no visiting during Sunday services.QG‑13, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus, www.fraumuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00 (Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00). Admission 5Sfr, incl. audioguide (available in 8 languages) or brochure and admission to crypt museum. Children free. Groups must book time slots in advance. GIACOMETTI MURALS In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s (1877 - 1947) magnificent murals adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls (see photo on p. 36). We think this impressive work is a must see for any Zurich visitor! The Giacomettis were a family of artists: Augusto’s cousin Giovanni (1868 - 1933) and Giovanni’s son Alberto (1901 - 1966) were successful artists too. And while Alberto and his haggard bronze figures are probably the best known Giacomettis (you can see some of those figures in the permanent exhibition at Zurich’s Kunsthaus), Augusto had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he studied and later lived here. And the murals in the entrance hall of Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 1925) is not the only work of his you can see in the city: he revitalised the art of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows in the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting paradise in the northern transept of the Fraumünster (1945) and windows in the Wasserkirche. The murals however, remain zurich.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing the work he is best known for. Admission to the murals is free, the opening hours are quite short though.QG‑12, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open 09:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00, admission free, ID required. GROSSMÜNSTER The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (5/2Sfr admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:00 (16:30 in winter), Sun 12:30 - 17:00 (16:30 in winter)). According to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked up to where the Grossmünster stands, taking their heads with them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and decided to found a church in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse. Since the Reformation the church has a barren feel, alleviated only by the windows. German artist Sigmar Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, partly made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with a museum on the Reformation are also accessible. Audioguide in different languages available (5Sfr plus 5Sfr deposit).QG‑13, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus, www.grossmuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, (Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00).
The towers of Grossmünster in the back and Wasserkirche in the front. Zurich Tourism
UETLIBERG The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top (admission 2Sfr) bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and offering a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps. The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from the main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be aware that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich (with a day pass, buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the peak with the lookout tower and a restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the last stop. From there two different paths lead to the top, both take about an hour. You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good shoes and staying on the path, especially in winter. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and a walk along the shores is a must, whatever the season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few hundred metres a park fills the expanse between the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese, also known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing, you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing Enge port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field where many cultural events take place. If you go just a little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik (red factory), marked by the red brick factory chimney. LAKE ZURICH CRUISES The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat. If you just want ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns, the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and Bürkliplatz-Zürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket covering zone 110. If that’s not enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip. There are different cruises all year round. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue several times a day. The short cruise (90 minutes) for example starts in summer every 30 minutes between 09:10 and 18/19:40, (after October 21 daily at 12:40 and 14:10, more frequent on weekends), the 4-hour one at least four times a day (after October 21 daily at 13:30). Tickets and timetables are available at the port. Standard public transport tickets are valid.QF‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg. ch. Tickets for roundtrips 8.80-34.40Sfr, children half the price, discount with Zurich public transport day cards. October – November 2018 35
Sightseeing diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are said to be the biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich, Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in 1230. This was the first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship after the Reformation.QF‑13, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz, www.st-peter-zh.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
The striking, elongated, haggard bronze figures are what Alberto Giacometti (1901 - 1966) is best known for, and Zurich is a great place to see them, as the Kunsthaus houses one of the best collections of his work worldwide. Giacometti’s portrait and work adorn today’s 100Sfr banknotes. But Zurich actually has more - more Giacomettis that is. Alberto’s father, Giovanni Giacometti (1868 - 1933), and his cousin, Augusto Giacometti (1877 - 1947), were successful artists in their own right. All of them came from mountainous and very poor Val Bregaglia on the south-eastern edge of Switzerland. Some of Giovanni’s (post-)impressionist paintings, mainly of his beautiful mountain home, are on display at the Kunsthaus. Augusto had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he studied and later lived here. Some of his best work is also here. He revitalised the art of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows in the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting paradise in the northern transept of the Fraumünster (1945) and windows in the Wasserkirche. The piece of work he made his name with, however, are the murals in the vaulted entrance hall of Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 25), see p. 34. LINDENHOF This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s old town used to be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the back of the square.QG‑12, 8Rathaus.
CHURCHES See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster. ST. PETER St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The 36 Zurich In Your Pocket
WASSERKIRCHE The Wasserkirche, water church, is on the banks of the Limmat - but still, why the name? Actually, it was on an island in the river until the Limmatquai was built in 1839. Dating at least from the 10th century, what you see today is late Gothic style from the 15th century. See also the stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti in the choir and the crypt with tombs almost as old as the church. A statue of forbidding Huldrich Zwingli stands at
Lindenhof, an idyllic square in the old town.
one end. Under the stone arches outside, the Kunstkiosk (art kiosque) sells books and prints and street musicians set up shop. If you get lucky you’ll hear the accordionist who gives masterful Bach recitals. Helmhaus gallery in the same building.QG‑13, Limmatquai 31, 8Helmhaus, www.wasserkirche.ch. Open 12:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00, closed Mon, Tue.
GARDENS & PARKS BOTANISCHER GARTEN (BOTANICAL GARDEN) The university’s botanical garden lies on a hillside on the eastern side of the lake. You can find different vegetation zones here: a Mediterranean area, an Alpinium with plants from the mountains, an area simulating an African wadi and several bench areas which are an ideal habitat for tired visitors. There are three UFO-like greenhouses with tropical and subtropical climates inside, housing exotic orchids or cactuses and other survivalists in a simulated savannah. There is a cafeteria as well.QJ‑16, Zollikerstrasse 107, 8Hegibachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 634 84 61, www. bg.uzh.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat & Sun 08:00 - 17:00. Greenhouses 09:30 - 17:00 (from Nov - Dec 9, 2018 greenhouses closed). Admission free. zurich.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing CACTUS COLLECTION This cactus collection houses a plethora of prickly plants, a splendid selection of succulents in six greenhouses. A bit off the beaten track, but easier to get to than most deserts. Apart from the plants on show, there are occasional events and on Wednesdays from 14:00 to 16:00 you can consult an expert on any trouble with cactuses you may have. QMythenquai 88, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. (+41) 43 344 34 80, www.stadt-zuerich.ch/sukkulenten. Open 09:00 - 16:30. Admission free.
MUSEUMS & ART Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and the ones we like best. You can find more information in English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch. FIFA WORLD FOOTBALL MUSEUM Zurich is the hometown of the International Federation of Association Football or FIFA. Its very own museum tells the history of football, FIFA and the World Cup over more than 3,000m2. You’re initially met with the jerseys of all 211 FIFA member associations, which are on display in a kind of colour-coded rainbow, as well as a timeline that takes you through the history of FIFA. The second floor is dedicated to the World Cup complete with dozens of historic artefacts including the tracksuit that football’s first real star Pelé wore in 1958. And yes, the original FIFA World Cup trophy is also
A place to worship football: the FIFA World Football Museum.
on display! The third and last floor is dedicated to the impact football has had and continues to have on society. There’s also a gaming zone with giant pinball machines where you and your kids can test your skills with actual footballs. The museum is great for football fans and families and a bistro, a café-bar, a shop and the Sportsbar 1904 can also be found at the museum.QE‑15, Seestrasse 27, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 43 388 25 00, www.fifamuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, closed Mon. Admission 24/14Sfr, students 18Sfr, kids younger than seven free, families 64Sfr. For Tuesdays 50% discount when you book tickets online.
30 years S MI: equity indic es e x plained! New special exhibition at the Finance Museum starting 1 June 2018
October – November 2018 37
Sightseeing MORE FOR LESS WITH THE ZÜRICH CARD You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the Zürich Card can help you make the most of it. For a busy day or two in Zurich, you can’t really go wrong with the Zürich Card. It gives you free entry to a number of great museums like the National Museum and dozens more. It also gets you a 10% discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng Cutlery or Vollenweider Chocolatier. You get free entry to several of Zurich’s best clubs and to the casino and many restaurants will give you dessert on the house with the card or some other extra, if you have a main course first. The Zürich Card also gives you unlimited use of trams, buses and trains within the city and includes the train trip from and to the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s little mountain Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe Zürich Card costs 27/19Sfr for 24hr and 53/37Sfr for 72hr. Buy it at SBB counters, at the airport, train stations, at the tourist information at the main station or at all VBZ public transport sales points and from all ticket machines in town (stamp it before you set off!). Check www.zuerich.com/zuerichcard for the full range of discounts. The Zürich Card is issued by Zürich Tourism who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket.
SCHWEIZER FINANZMUSEUM (FINANCE MUSEUM) With all its banks Zurich is known as the city for finance and money and it finally has a museum dedicated to the subject. What are stocks, how were they traded and how does it work today? And how did Switzerland become an important marketplace for finance? These questions and more are answered by audio installations (Alfred Escher, Zurich’s railway pioneer and founder of the bank Credit Suisse, will explain everything to you!) as well as interactive video installations. Want to go public with your company? No problem, a friendly gentlemen on a video screen will explain the process to you. There’s also a short trainee programme available for stockbrokers and a game where you can prove your skills afterwards. The museum gives you an insight into the world of finance and is situated in the headquarters of SIX, the company that operates the Swiss stock exchange. You can also download its free app to your smartphone, which will guide you through the museum. QPfingstweidstrasse 110, 8Sportweg, tel. (+41) 58 399 32 88, www.finanzmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10/8Sfr, children up to 12 years free.
KATSINAM Cloud People and Ancestral Spirits
NONAM Seefeldstr. 317 8008 Zürich
Tuesday to Friday 1pm – 5pm Saturday, Sunday 10am – 5pm closed on Mondays
nonam.ch 38 Zurich In Your Pocket
You can’t take these home: native clothes at NONAM.
KUNSTHAUS Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including some of his trademark haggard statues. Work by international artists like Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile temporary exhibitions, one large, one small (see section Culture & Events). English language audioguides available. Café and shop on the ground floor. QH‑13, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission for collection 16/11Sfr, for exhibitions 23/18Sfr, combined ticket 26/19Sfr. Free admission to the collection every Wednesday. NATIONAL MUSEUM (LANDESMUSEUM) It will take you a while to get through the permanent exhibition on Swiss history, but hey, it took centuries to accumulate. Complete with sights, sounds, slides and secret zurich.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing MARKETS ROSENHOFMARKT Incense sticks, trinkets and hippie-style clothes are on offer on Thursdays and Saturdays at the Rosenhof, a hidden square in the Niederdorf part of the old town. Artists also sell their handcrafted jewellery and pottery. There is also food from around the world. QG‑12, Rosenhof, 8Rathaus, www.gld.ch. March - December Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. bank accounts, this is not some bone-dry collection of old things. There are four thematic areas: the first section shows the history of migration and settlement, the second examines religious and intellectual history, the third is dedicated to Swiss political history and the fourth section focusses on economy. For most exhibits explanations in English are available. There are temporary exhibitions on changing topics (see Culture & Events section of this guide). In August 2016 the striking concrete extension that has been built over the last few years opened to the public. The museum has now finally much more space for exhibitions, a study centre and a large restaurant. E-guide in the ‘National Museum’ app for your smartphone available in English and other languages or hire a special device at the entrance. QF‑10, Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, www.landesmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr.
NONAM (NORTH AMERICA NATIVE MUSEUM) The permanent exhibition of the North America Native Museum shows over 700 objects like masks, boats or totem poles from six regions in the USA and Canada. The exhibitions’ aim is to render a better understanding of the natives of North America and show the various ways the Inuit, Indian and Métis groups lived. QSeefeldstrasse 317, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41) 43 499 24 40, www.nonam.ch. Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8/6Sfr, families 25Sfr.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS STORIES OF THE OLD TOWN - GUIDED WALK A professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk through the old town of Zurich. What links famous literati, scientists or visionaries such as Albert Einstein, Lenin and the Dadaists with Zurich? Discover the city’s history in English and German. Good choice if you really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks such as the ones on design and gourmet food ask at the Tourist Information.QG‑11, Tourist InformationMain Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the Tourist Information at the main train station. Daily 15:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 (German) & 15:00 (English). In Nov only Wed & Sun 11:00, Sat 11:00 (German) & 15:00 (English). 25/12.50Sfr, 50% off with Zürich Card.
EXCURSIONS Bookings +41 (0)44 710 50 50 facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
www.switzerland-tours.ch October – November 2018 39
Sightseeing Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 10:00, 13:00 and 15:30 at the Sihlquai bus terminal next to the main train station. From Nov - March only at 13:00. Tickets available on the spot, but reservation by phone/ website is recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr, 10 - 20% discount with the Zürich Card. You’ll see the entire old town on a guided tour.
BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR Enjoy a city tour in an air-conditioned coach including a short stroll through the old town and a ride with the Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential area of Zürichberg. In a little more than two hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial district, the old guild houses and the universities. There’s live commentary in English and German as well as audio guides in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and Japanese. In addition to the city tour, the company also offers tours to Titlis, Pilatus, Rigi, the Rhine Falls and Jungfraujoch, just to name a few. Excursions for small groups and adventure packages are also available. Visit www.switzerland-tours.ch for more information.QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50,
THE ZURICH EXPERIENCE CITY TOUR Ride around Zurich in a modern panorama coach. The two-hour tour gives you an overview of the city showing you the financial district, Bahnhofstrasse and a part of the old town including the Grossmünster, Fraumünster and St. Peter’s churches as well as the posh residential areas on Zürichberg. Commentary including some insights into the history of the city is provided via headsets in eleven languages (English, French, German, Italian, Spanish Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, Chinese, Hindi, Arabic). They also offer many other tours, including trips to Lucerne, Mount Pilatus, Jungfraujoch and more. See website for more tours.QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 383 78 78, www.meiertours.ch. Daily 09:45, 12:00 & 14:00. Tickets 34/17Sfr, available on the spot, reservation by phone recommended.
meiertours.ch Hans Meier Tourist Ltd. • Gray Line Switzerland
4 383 78 78
Bookings +41 (0)4
The Zurich Experience City Tour with audio-guided commentary
Regular Sightseeing Tours Free WiFi on-board
Exciting tours to Glacier Paradise Mt.Titlis, Jungfraujoch, Heidiland, Lucerne … and many more
THE LEADING SWISS TOUR OPERATOR 40 Zurich In Your Pocket
Old-town stroll at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the old town. On the right is 5 Cabaret Voltaire, from where the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916. A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas.
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On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right
Ahead of you is the church tower of 3 St. Peter (see p. 36), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of the alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the second bridge, 4 Rathausbrücke, also known as the vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held here on Saturdays.
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Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to 2 Lindenhof (see p. 36), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age. Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall.
Main Train Station Bahn hofpl atz B
Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the river Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, 1 Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop, head down the steps to the metal walkway leading upstream along the Limmat, almost touching the water (Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), with some miniature antiques shops and boutiques on the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the left.
Löw ens tra
Spiegelgasse in medieval Niederdorf.
A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque - style abbey, the somewhat austere 6 Grossmünster with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the 7 Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river and then cross the bridge to 8 Fraumünster (see p. 34) to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall. You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk further along the river.
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A stroll through the old town comes with lots of shopping opportunities. | Zurich Tourism
Zurich has a reputation as a shopping city, even if it’s not quite London or Milan. Bahnhofstrasse is especially renowned as one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. For Swiss and urban design, Europaallee and the area around Langstrasse are good places to start. As far as shopping malls are concerned, Switzerland can’t match other European nations where huge centres are the order of the day, but perhaps that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping centre, an easily accessible mall that opened in 2007, is an example of innovative development, without the massive sprawl of other malls. The Glatt shopping mall just outside city limits is Switzerland’s most popular shopping centre. The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed here together with other notable shops. Remember that all shops are closed on Sundays except those at the railway stations and some souvenir shops. For more suggestions visit www.zurich.inyourpocket.com The main shopping areas are: Bahnhofstrasse (F-11/14) Bahnhofstrasse leads from the main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian area with nearly no traffic, but watch out for the trams! It’s world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches and designer boutiques as well as the big department stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years, more big foreign companies like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse displacing some traditional Zurich businesses and some say Bahnhofstrasse is losing its atmosphere. Naturally not everyone is happy about this. 42 Zurich In Your Pocket
Nevertheless, a walk down this famous street is a must for every shopping fan. Wander down the side streets as well, where shops are no less luxurious and some more unusual little gems are hidden. Niederdorf (G-11/13) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old town east of the River Limmat - is better known for dining and nightlife than shopping, it’s well worth expanding your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the Limmatquai and Niederdorfstrasse streets - both pedestrian areas - you’ll find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well worth a peek. Old Town (F/G-12/13) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse and the River Limmat is another shopping area not to be missed. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg with its international clothing brands and boutiques or Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores.
OPENING HOURS Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller shops including jewellers often close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings. On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or 18:00, department stores until 20:00). On Sundays all shops have to be closed by law (except in train and petrol stations). zurich.inyourpocket.com
Shopping THE GALLERY This is a shopping paradise for women and men - 20 fashion brands of renown such as Closed, Drykorn, iBLUES, Designers Remix, iheart or Coccinelle are on offer. The store has sections for casual trendy, modern contemporary, affordable luxury, jeans fashion and accessories rather than being organised by brands. And while fashion is at the core of this store there are some lifestyle products like candles or pillows as well - and there is even a coffee and juice bar. They have monthly offers for beauty products and even food or beverages, to make your shopping experience that bit more exciting.QF‑12, Löwenstrasse 40, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 43 343 95 71, www.thegalleryconcept.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
CHOCOLATE & SWEETS NEW CHOCOLAT DIETER MEIER - ORO DE CACAO Jack-of-all-trades Dieter Meier is now also a chocolatier. He gained fame in the electronic group Yello in the 1980s and as a successful entrepreneur he also runs several restaurants in Zurich and a vineyard and cattle ranch in Argentina. For his chocolate, the cocoa isn’t roasted, but rather ground with water in a process without heat. The result is a chocolate that is full flavoured, but only a little bitter. You can try it in this boutique in the old town.QG‑13, Wühre 15, 8Rathaus, www.chocolatdietermeier.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.
BOOKS & MUSIC 16TONS With tons of new and second-hand vinyl records, mainly of the genres reggae, soul, rockabillly and dancehall, 16tons is one of the city’s first addresses for vinyl lovers.QC‑11, Anwandstrasse 25, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 242 02 03, www.16tons.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP Zurich’s biggest English-language bookshop stocks thousands of fiction and non-fiction books, magazines, audio books and DVDs - and all in English. It’s located on the third floor of the Orell Füssli bookshop just off Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑12, Füsslistrasse 4 (3rd floor), 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 04 44, www.orellfussli.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. ZERO ZERO RARE GROOVE Ten thousands of vinyls from rock to hip hop and new beats, from the 60s to the latest records. Thousands of CDs as well, mostly second hand. Just tell the staff what you are looking for and they will try to help you find it.QD‑11, Bäckerstr. 54, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 85 20, www.zerozero.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
The chocolate bars at Oro de Cacao are careflly sorted.
MAX CHOCOLATIER Originating from Lucerne, Max Chocolatier sell their sweet 100% natural delicacies in Zurich too - in their shop next to St. Peter church. They sell chocolates and pralines of outstanding quality. The chocolatiers make every piece by hand, whether it’s, say, bars of dark Madagascan chocolate with pumpkin seeds, creamy caramel delicacies or their own chocolate spread.QG‑13, Schlüsselgasse 12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 251 03 33, www.maxchocolatier.com. Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
Orell Füssli The Bookshop 3rd Floor, Füsslistrasse 4, 8001 Zürich +41 (0)44 211 04 44 Englishemail@example.com
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Shopping AIRSIDE CENTER AT ZURICH AIRPORT Zurich airport’s passenger area is a shopping centre too! And quite a large one, in fact: more than 60 shops are located in the Airside Center which is accessible only to passengers. Here you can find literally anything you might be looking for. Be it Swiss watches, fashion or souvenirs, it’s all there, Swiss as well as international brands of course. In the Zürich Duty Free Stores you can buy a varied range of perfumes and cosmetics, tobacco products, spirits, wines and chocolate creations from Lindt, Cailler or Toblerone. The many restaurants and bars serving Swiss and international specialties make the Airside Center complete. So if you arrive at the airport early - don’t worry. You can use the time to hunt around for that last gift or souvenir or have a fine meal before you take off!QZurich Airport, www.flughafen-zuerich.ch/shopping. Open 06:00 22:00. Accessible only to passengers.
FASHION CABINET This exceptional concept store is curated by designer Nina van Rooijen and her husband, fashion journalist Jeroen van Rooijen. Expect fashion and accessories beyond the everyday (including Nina’s very own collection), body care products, but also lifestyle and interior design pieces from Zurich and around the world, all presented in an inspiring way.QC‑8, Viaduktstrasse 83, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 273 95 13, www.cabinet-store.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
DEPARTMENT STORES JELMOLI They call themselves the house of brands - and that’s what they are indeed: Hugo, DKNY, Karl Lagerfeld, Diesel, Tommy Hilfiger, Versace are just some of the fashion brands you can find here. But there’s more than fashion: perfumes, household goods, a huge sports and an electronics department. And not to forget the Jelmoli Food Market grocery store in the basement.QF‑12, Seidengasse 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. MANOR Manor is probably the most casual of the trinity of department stores on Bahnhofstrasse. It specialises in young and casual fashion and sells its own brands as well as brands of renown - they have something for everyone’s needs. Besides that, there are departments for beauty, sports, household and home electronics.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 75, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 229 56 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Fashion for urban cowboys and others at DeeCee Style.
DEECEE STYLE Leather jackets, denim jeans, travel bags and handmade shoes by international brands and much more - that’s what you’ll find at DeeCee Style. A shop for urban cowboys and fashion-conscious bankers alike. There is a girl’s section too. QF‑13, Talacker 21, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 497 35 85, www.deeceestyle.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. FIDELIO WOMEN If you’re looking for casual, but still stylish fashion for women, try Fidelio. They sell renowned labels like Acne Studios, Iro, Myths, Thom Krom and their very own label fidelio.QF‑12, Münzplatz 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 13 11, www.fideliokleider.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 18:00, closed Sun.
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05.09.18 15:10 zurich.inyourpocket.com
Shopping GANT Located on Rennweg, just off Bahnhofstrasse, this is the new flagship store for GANT in Zurich. Founded in 1949 in the US GANT stands for casual, yet chic fashion for both men and women. With shirts, colourful pants, casual business suits, blouses, blazers or shoes, this shop features all of the latest GANT collections spread out over more than 300m2 on two floors. Other GANT shops can be found on Europaallee (Lagerstrasse 10) and at the Sihlcity shopping centre (Kalandeplatz 1).QF‑12, Rennweg 30, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 96 66, www.global.gant. com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. MARC O’POLO Well, they specialise in casual, but it’s casual with style, we’d say. You ‘ll also find the accessories and shoes of this company with Swedish roots. The Zurich store of the Marc O’Polo fashion brand features all their latest collections for men, women and kids - be it shorts, blouses, jackets or coats and more.QF‑11, Lintheschergasse 10, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 43 497 21 35, www.marc-o-polo.ch. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. STRELLSON STORE This is the flagship store of Strellson, a Swiss label for men’s fashion. On 220sqm on two storeys right on Limmatquai you can find all its latest collections, be it the smart business suits, shirts, jackets and coats or their more casual jeans, sweaters and leather jackets. They also produce
The men’s section at the new Gant store.
shoes and accessories like belts, scarfs and wallets.QG‑13, Limmatquai 58, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 243 71 44, www.strellson.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. TOOCHÉ This is the boutique of Zurich-based designer Genevieve Monnet. Inspired by international fashion shows, she focuses on dresses, jackets and other women’s apparel produced in small numbers in Italy, which are usually made of high-quality Italian fabrics. Surprisingly, all are quite affordable as no dress costs more than 300Sfr.QG‑13, Strehlgasse 3, 8Patadeplatz / Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 221 97 97, www.tooche.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 20:00, Fri 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
GANT STORE RENNWEG ZÜRICH GANT.COM
October – November 2018 45
Shopping SHOPPING MALLS IM VIADUKT More than 30 shops and a market hall for groceries nestled under the arches of a railway viaduct built in the 19th century. Not a classic shopping mall but a street with one shop after another. The emphasis is on small and trendy fashion labels, studios and concept stores rather than the big luxury brands. In the market hall, more than 30 vendors offer their goods, like fresh food and cured meats.QD‑8, Limmatstrasse 259, 8Dammweg, www.im-viadukt.ch. Closed Sun.
The mo st l uxur i o us f ra gra n c e s and skincare in the wor ld SI N CE 1 9 2 1
SIHLCITY A true shopper‘s paradise, opened in 2007 on the grounds of an industrial-age paper mill. Modern architecture carefully blends with the factory buildings which house more than 80 shops from fashion to electronics, restaurants, a hotel, a spa and a multiplex cinema. Easily accessible from the city centre by tram N°13 & 17 in direction Albisgütli or N°5 in direction Laubegg - or take the S4 train, exit at Saalsporthalle.QC‑16, Kalanderplatz 1, 8Sihlcity Nord, tel. (+41) 44 204 99 99, www.sihlcity.ch. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Sun, Coop grocery store open until 21:00.
BAHNHOFSTRASSE 17 | 8001 ZÜRICH | TEL.044 211 2030 | OSSWALD.CH
Time to take up sport again
Everything for sports on three stories: Och Sport.
Bahnhofstrasse 56 and Limmatquai 78 in Zurich. www.ochsport.ch
Marktgasse 3-5 8001 Zürich Switzerland
46 Zurich In Your Pocket
OUTDOOR CLOTHING & SPORTS BURTON STORE ZÜRICH is Zurich’s flagship store for the American snowboard and clothing manufacturer Burton. Founded in 1977 by snowboarding pioneer Jake Burton Carpenter, it has become one of the biggest and best known brands for winter sporting goods. In addition to snowboard apparel, accessories and protective gear, Burton also offers outerwear, jackets and sweaters, bags and luggage, camping equipment such as tents and sleeping bags and much more, so you don’t have to be a hardcore mountain junky to find something here. QG‑12, Marktgasse 3/5, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 578 09 46, www.burton.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.
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Shopping TOY STORES FRANZ CARL WEBER This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently located right next to the main station. There’s virtually anything you might desire on four huge floors from first toys for newborns to tech toys for grown-ups, not to mention books and toys from Switzerland. Your kids will absolutely love the slide that connects the first level with the ground floor.QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. OCH SPORT At Och Sport you’ll find just about everything for any kind of sports on three storeys: tennis, badminton, trekking, running, skiing, swimming and much more - they have it all. On top of this huge choice, there is also fashion and outerwear - but sports definitely comes first here. Sister shop at Limmatquai 78.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 56, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 215 21 21, www.ochsport.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Nov - Jan open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. THE NORTH FACE STORE The Zurich flagship store of the American outdoor company The North Face naturally features everything the brand has become famous for: outerwear, fleeces, shirts and footwear as well as equipment such as backpacks, tents and sleeping bags. It all definitely suits hikers and mountaineers but is also very chic for your hike through the urban jungle.QE‑12, Sihlstrasse 95, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 210 07 17, www.thenorthface.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.
Welcome to the most famous paradise of toys for children, since 1881. Bahnhofplatz 9 8001 Zürich 044 225 78 78 www.fcw.ch
PERFUMES & BEAUTY OSSWALD Osswald is the specialist for perfumes and beauty products for facial care and spa treatments on Bahnhofstrasse. This family-run business was founded in 1921 and still offers excellent consulting services and beauty aids. Facial care products include Swiss brands like La Prairie, Cell Cosmet and Valmont, among many others, and the fragrances available are nearly endless including many niche brands from around the globe like Profumum Roma, Roja and Thameen. In their facial spa, they also offer medical and cosmetic facial treatments, but you’ll also find make-up, hair products, home fragrances and even accessories for your bathroom here.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 17, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 20 30, www.osswald.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.
SHOES, BEACHWEAR & ACCESSORIES
The address for perfumes and beauty products: Osswald.
JIMMY CHOO Jimmy Choo is the playground for female shoe enthusiasts on Bahnhofstrasse: court shoes, boots, and rubber wellies - it’s all the rage. Of course this kind of foot wear has its price, but as a shoe lover that probably won’t be your first concern.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 26, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 210 38 00, www.jimmychoo.com. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. October – November 2018 47
Shopping OXBLOOD SHOES This store is for male shoe aficionados. They mainly have top-quality business shoes on offer, most of them made of Shell Cordovan leather (from a particular part of a horsehide only) for a special rich and glossy look. Only exclusive shoemakers use this leather from the Chicago leather company Horween: Ludwig Reiter, Cordwanier and Allen Edmonds for example. Needless to say the shoes at Oxblood don’t come cheap. But true quality has its price, always.QE‑11, Europaallee 19, 8Sihlpost / HB, tel. (+41) 44 240 51 51, www.oxbloodshoes.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. STEFI TALMAN Swiss designer Stefi Talman built her reputation in the 1980ies with a half boot called Zip featuring a zipper crossing the instep at an angle. Her collections of shoes and bags for women are still remarkable and are on offer in her own boutique in the upper part of the old town.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 13, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 81 10, www.stefitalman.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
designs, all actually made in Switzerland. Erfolg means success, and that’s what the label has become in recent years. They have a second shop in the shopping street Im Viadukt.QE‑12, Löwenstrasse 2, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 210 40 70, www.erfolg-label.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. FREITAG The Freitag brothers produce all kinds of bags made out of old truck tarpaulins and used seat belts from cars. They‘ve been at it since 1993 and with great success. And because a tarpaulin can only be cut once, each of the bags is unique. The flagship store is made of 17 old freight containers stacked up to make a tower, so you can choose from hundreds of bags on four floors. From the top of the tower you can spot the trucks on the neighbouring ‘highway’-bridge across Zurich - and be inspired just as the Freitag brothers were when they had the same view from the window of their living room in the early 90s.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 17, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 366 95 20, www.freitag.ch. Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
SWISS FOOD GLOBUS DELICATESSA In the basement of the Globus department store you’ll find almost any kind of food imaginable, be it organic Swiss cheese, meat specialities from across the country or perfectly ripe exotic fruit from around the world. It’s not only Swiss produce, but we are almost certain you will find every Swiss delicacy you might be looking for. Not a cheap shop, but with an impressive diversity.QF‑11, Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 58 578 11 11, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Ta-Bou: bikinis and swimsuits all year round.
TA-BOU At Ta-Bou they sell bikinis the whole year round. And not just any bikinis, but their very own collection! This family business has been successfully designing and producing bikinis and swimsuits for exactly 40 years! And you can buy each top or bottom piece individually, so you can combine them according to your taste - or size. In their shop it feels like summer anytime of the year.QF‑12, Uraniastrasse 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 08 11, www.ta-bou.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, closed Sun.
SWISS DESIGN ERFOLG This Swiss clothes label has been producing shirts and knitted garments since 1993. Expect colourful, mostly non-synthetic clothing, some with reduced, stylish 48 Zurich In Your Pocket
WELSCHLAND At this small delicatessen you can find all the specialities of the Romandie, the French speaking western part of Switzerland, where people are said to be more relaxed than around Zurich. Be it sausages (for example saucisses aux choux with cabbage) many cheeses, wines or absinth - it’s all there.QC‑12, Zweierstrasse 56, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 43 243 98 50, www.welschland.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, closed Sun.
SWISS FABRICS FABRIC FRONTLINE Exquisite foulards, scarfs, ties and coats all made of coloured, patterned silk, is what the Swiss family business Fabric Frontline specialises in. You can find it all in their store in the covered courtyard of the Credit Suisse building at Paradeplatz.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 222 20 00, www.fabricfrontline.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 17:00. Closed Sun. zurich.inyourpocket.com
beachwear for every body.
www.ta-bou.com Uraniastrasse 31 next to Jelmoli-Parking facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
October â€“ November 2018 49
Shopping BOUTIQUE CHRISTIAN FISCHBACHER For nearly 200 years this family-owned Swiss company has produced fine fabrics for luxurious interiors. Drop by its Zurich boutique to find everything from finest bed linen, duvets, pillows and cushions to carpets, accessories and bath textiles. All of the standard sizes are available here, but the staff can also take custom orders. They’ll also be happy to help you find the perfect interior fabrics to match your personality and your home.QF‑13, Kappelergasse 11, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 211 57 47, www.fischbacher.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Sun.
Although there are dozens of reasons to visit Zurich, one of the best is a chance to do some luxury shopping. Whether you’re a dedicated fashionista or just enjoy browsing, Zurich has all of the world’s most soughtafter brands. Many of the best labels can be found on and around Bahnhofstrasse and Storchengasse, the Swiss equivalent of New York’s Fifth Avenue. DOLCE & GABBANNA Dolce & Gabbana love flower prints, sumptuous accessories and body-hugging designs. Explore its latest luxury fashion collections for men, women and kids.QF‑14, Bahnhofstrasse 10, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 497 35 04, www.dolcegabbana.com. PINKO PINKO is an Italian fashion brand founded in the early 1980s. With its daring, even cheeky feminine collections it attracts strong personalities regardless of age. Its all new Zurich store is located on Strehlgasse 9, right around Storchengasse.QG‑13, Strehlgasse 9, tel. (+41) 44 577 57 98, www.pinko.com. Open 09:30 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. TROIS POMMES - THE STORE WOMEN The Trois Pommes is the epitome of a concept store for women and probably one of the most luxurious ones in Zurich. Only fashion, shoes and accessories of the most exquisite brands make it to this store. They are presented in an equally luxurious interior. The Trois Pommes empire encompasses more shops, several on nearby Storchengasse, for example Trois Pommes Donna (Emilio Pucci, Lanvin). QG‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 18, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 09 43, www.troispommes.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 18:00, Sun closed.
Quality Swiss linens, pillows and more at Christian Fischbacher. PD
SOUVENIRS DOLMETSCH They offer classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-Shirts and outdoor fashion. Free engraving service on Victorinox knives for customers directly in the shop. Sister shop Swiss Shop 1291 at ShopVille underground at the main railway station.QG‑11, Limmatquai 126, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 55 44, www.dolmetsch.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
VALENTINO One of the world’s most sought-after fashion labels offers the latest women’s collections including shoes, purses and fashionable eyewear at this boutique. QG‑13, Storchengasse 12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 216 80 20, www.valentino.com. Open 09:30 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. 50 Zurich In Your Pocket
Shopping TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP At Teddy’s they have a wide range of souvenirs and gifts. Whether it’s watches, cowbells, hats, music boxes, soft toys, pocket knives or clothes you’re after: you’ll find it all at their shop on Limmatquai, just next to the church Grossmünster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a traditional shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of yore. And yes, this souvenir shop is open even on Sundays.QG‑13, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 17:00, Nov - March Sun 11:00 - 17:00. EDELWEISS SHOP At the Edelweiss shop, they have a huge choice of souvenirs and gifts including clothing (with lots of Swiss crosses of course!), toys, bags, watches army knives and much more. The shop is situated at the exit of the big hall of the main railway station towards Bahnhofstrasse. They feature brands like Swiss Military and Alpine Club. QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 497 23 80, www.edelweiss-shops.ch. Open 08:00 21:30, incl. Sun.
SWISS SHOP 1291 This shop offers classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-shirts and outdoor fashion. Sister shop Dolmetsch at Limmatquai 126 in the Niederdorf.QF‑11, ShopVille, entrance Bahnhofstrasse, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 211 61 32, www.swiss-shop-1291.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:00. VICTORINOX FLAGSHIP STORE This is the Zurich flagship store by Victorinox, the Swiss family business of world renown. They may be best known for their Swiss army knives, but they also produce other high-quality items like cutlery, watches, travel gear and fashion - which is all in stock at this store of course. At the Knife Assembly Station you can even make your own unique Swiss army knife by choosing size, functions and colours. A special souvenir or gift!QF‑12, Rennweg 58, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 229 60 70, www.victorinox.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 18:30. Closed Sun. ZÜRICHFOTO.CH Photographer Rolf Müllestein sells souvenirs of Zurich beyond army knives and cow bells: authentic black and white pictures of the city of Zurich, the old town, the lake. QG‑13, Kirchgasse 32, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 21 45, www.zuerichfoto.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
MENG CUTLERY Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brand Victorinox. Also in stock: other knives, scissors, watches and more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4 (E-4).QF‑12, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. MESSER-SCHARF Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage, and messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage. You’ll find an extensive range of knives and other products by Victorinox, such as kitchen implements, watches or rucksacks. messerscharf also stock high-end kitchen knives by Chroma. QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 01 20, www.messer-scharf.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QG‑12, Uraniastrasse 1, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 222 19 55, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Kappelergasse 11 8001 Zürich +41 44 211 57 47 WWW.FISCHBACHER.COM
October – November 2018 51
Watches & Jewellery Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95% of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made in Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in Geneva around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had fled France. Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for watches today. Whether on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a quieter corner, you will find a huge selection of brands and models here. The next couple of pages will guide you!
TAX FREE SHOPPING As a foreign resident you are entitled to a refund when making purchases for more than 300Sfr (including VAT), provided the goods leave the country within 30 days. You will get back the VAT, which in Switzerland is only 7.7% - minus a handling fee. It’s as easy as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around Europe). For more infos see www.global-blue.com.
BEYER WATCHES & JEWELLERY For more than 250 years Beyer has been selling and repairing watches. The family business is now managed by the eighth generation. Beyer specializes in selling some of the world’s most sought-after brands as well as its own Beyer brand.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 70 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, and their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There are sister shops at the department store Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, F-12), ShopVille at the main train station and the shopping centre Sihlcity (Kalanderplatz 1, C-16).QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.
BUCHERER Jewellery and Swiss watch boutique established in 1888. Top brands like Rolex, IWC, Longines and Rado as well as their own brand Carl F. Bucherer.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 50, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 26 35, www.bucherer.com. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. GELLNER & FRIENDS This is jewellery manufacturer Gellner’s flagship store in Switzerland and here it’s all about cultured pearls. The collection includes elegant earrings, bracelets, necklaces and daring rings, all designed and handmade at the factory. Apart from Gellner’s very own pieces, the shop also sells jewellery by Danish designer Ole Lynggaard, Dutch brand Minitials and renowned watches by Nomos Glashütte. QF‑12, Strehlgasse 27, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 552 24 03, www.gellnerandfriends.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. GÜBELIN Since 1854 Gübelin have been selling jewellery, watches and precious stones. You will find their own jewellery lines as well as many renowned watch brands such as IWC Schaffhausen, Zenith, Hublot, Baume & Mercier and Jaeger-LeCoultre.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 387 52 20, www.guebelin.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun.
Strehlgasse 27 | 8001 Zürich | gellnerandfriends.ch
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUE Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen has its very own Zurich boutique. Find their iconic automatic watches, be it the Pilot’s series or the Aquatimer watch family and exclusive models only available in its flagship stores. All presented in a hyper designed shop which includes a relaxing lounge area.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 61, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 00 55, www.iwc.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
52 Zurich In Your Pocket AZ_Gellner_NOMOS_Zuerichinyourpocket_60x90.indd 1
zurich.inyourpocket.com 30.08.18 12:00
Watches & Jewellery KURZ JEWELLERY AND WATCHES Kurz have a large selection of jewellery e.g. by Chopard and from their own workshops, as well as a broad range of mainly Swiss watch brands like Omega, Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, and Rado.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 219 77 77, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:15 - 18:30, Sat 09:15 - 17:00. Closed Sun. LES AMBASSADEURS Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery at Les Ambassadeurs store. They have long established partnerships with leading brands such as Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Vacheron Constantin, Omega as well as Pasquale Bruni and Pomellato. Their sales staff provide expert advice in many languages.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 64, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 17 17, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
WELCOME TO SWITZERLAND’S FIRST DESTINATION FOR WATCHES AND JEWELRY with a selection of more than 50 exclusive brands.
SWAROVSKI Swarovski is not just crystals - but if you’re an aficionado you won’t need telling that. Their Zurich location offers jewellery, watches, fashion accessories and objects for the home.QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz 7, 8Bahnhofplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 10 20, www.swarovski.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, closed Sun.
Watches, jewellery and sleek ambience at Christ.
TISSOT BOUTIQUE The traditional Swiss watchmaker Tissot has its very own boutique on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. Find all their latest watches for men and women in their modern salesrooms. QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 94, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 222 18 53, www.tissotwatches.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
I N T E R L A K E N | LU C E R N E | ZU R I C H | G E N E VA L AU S A N N E | M O N T R EU X | LU GA N O
VAINARD Vainard creates classic diamond jewellery as well as a more daring designer’s collection - inspired by Art deco and modernity with strong black and white contrasts, be it rings, earrings, bracelets or bangles.QG‑13, Schlüsselgasse 4, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 210 04 44, www.vainard.com Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
October – November 2018 53
A. Lange & Söhne Audemars Piguet Balmain Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Beyer Blancpain Breguet Breitling Bulgari Cartier Certina Charriol Chopard Corum De Grisogono Ebel Eterna Franck Muller Girard Perregaux Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Jaquet Droz Jaeger-LeCoultre Jowissa Longines Louis Erard Maurice Lacroix Mido Mondaine Movado Nomos Glashütte Omega Oris Parmigiani Fleurier Patek Philippe Piaget Quinting Rado Raymond Weil Rolex Swatch Swiss Military TAG Heuer Tiffany Tissot Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Victorinox Swiss Army Vulcain Wenger Zenith Zurich Partime
La Serlas, Bahnhofstrasse 25
Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80
IWC Schaffhausen, Bahnhofstrasse 61
Heinicke, Limmatquai 32
Christ at Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1
Gübelin, Bahnhofstrasse 36
Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78
Gellner & Friends, Strehlgasse 27
Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40
Galli, Theaterstrasse 16
Central Jewellery, Limmatquai 140
Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45
Cartier Joailliers, Pelikanstrasse 6
Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126
Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25
Christian Uhren Schmuck, Limmatplatz 1
Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31
Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50
Airbijoux, Bahnhofstrasse 1
Beyer, Bahnhofstrasse 31
Affolter Max, Limmatquai 82
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Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64
Meister Uhren, Bahnhofstrasse 33
Meng Cutlery, Poststrasse 4
Meng Cutlery, Rennweg 31
messer-scharf, Oberdorfstrasse 25
Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 48
Oscar Stahel, Gerbergasse 5
Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31
Rolex Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 17
Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 52
Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14
Tissot Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 94
Victorinox Flagship Store, Rennweg 58
ZÜRICH BAHNHOFSTRASSE 64 +41 44 227 17 17 WWW.LESAMBASSADEURS.CH
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Lake Zurich October – November 2018 55
Zurich for kids pack chocolates or dress up as a cocoa bean and make funny photos to surprise your friends with. You can also identify different smells in the Aroma Lab or play a giant computer game. Afterwards you can fortify yourself up in the café and, of course, buy all of the Frey delicacies at the shop. This pleasant day trip, which isn’t just for chocolate connoisseurs, is reachable in only 39 minutes from Zurich (take the train to Aarau, then bus Nº1 to the Industrie stop in Buchs).QBresteneggstrasse 4, Buchs, tel. (+41) 62 836 24 25, www.chocolatfrey.ch/en/visitor-centre. Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. Admission 12/10/6Sfr, family ticket incl. up to 5 kids (6-16 years) 30/18Sfr. Free admission to the café with a playground and shop.
Franz Carl Weber
FRANZ CARL WEBER This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently located right next to the main station. See also p. 47.QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. ALKENA The small shop near Bellevue has a good selection of high-quality, cheerful children’s clothes made of organic textiles. The brand Alkena specialises in organic silk which is produced in its own silk farm in China. They also sell women’s clothes, so mum might find something she likes too.QH‑14, Stadelhoferstrasse 33, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 261 66 00, www.alkena.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 16:00. Closed Sun, Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
KINDERCITY Kindercity is a science city for children aged 3 to 12, much more hands-on than a museum - and when did you last do bungee-jumping in a museum? Different so-called knowledge lanes are dedicated to topics like the human body, renewable energy or modern communication, using sight, sound, smell and action to let children discover, accompanied by an adult. There is a café, open-air play areas, magic trains and a car driving school on the roof for underaged drivers - and much more. From Zurich, take trains S9 or S14 (direction Hinwil/Uster), change at Schwerzenbach to the bus in direction of Volketswil, get off at Volkiland, Chliriet (duration: 22 minutes).QChlirietstrasse 12, Volketswil, tel. (+41) 43 204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Daypass (cinema and knowledge lanes) 31.50Sfr, activities can also be booked separately e.g. knowledge lane 16.50Sfr (22.50 adults).
Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.
LEISURE, PARKS & SPORTS Little guests need room to jump and run. Not to mention swim, skate or canoe. The most central playground is next to Lindenhof (p. 36, E-3) and there is a large one next to the Chinese garden. The GZ community centres of the city also have good playgrounds (www.gz-zh.ch). CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE You and your kids can get to know how chocolate is made in a playful way at the visitor centre of Chocolat Frey, Switzerland’s biggest chocolate producer. On the expert trail some of Frey’s chocolate makers will explain and demonstrate the production of those sweet delicacies. And yes, you and your kids will be able to taste some, be they pieces straight from the production line or from the two chocolate fountains. You can watch Röbi the Robot 56 Zurich In Your Pocket
Dressing up as a cocoa bean sure looks like fun.
SWIMMING BATHS OERLIKON (HALLENBAD) Zurich’s biggest indoor swimming baths and the best with children. There’s a 25-metre pool for non-swimmers, a children’s pool with water toys, a 50-metre pool for good swimmers and a diving pool. Get there on tram N°11 (plus a good 5 minutes walk) or buses N°63 or N°94. QJ‑1, Wallisellenstrasse 100, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, tel. (+41) 44 315 67 77, www.sportamt.ch/schwimmen. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue, Thu 06:00 - 20:00. Admission 8/6/4Sfr, under 6 years free. zurich.inyourpocket.com
Zurich for kids MUSEUMS & ZOOS If you’re looking for places to learn and discover stuff, try these suggestions. Zurich Zoo, the classic destination: the Masoala Rainforest is warm even on a chilly day. See p. 58.Qwww.zoo.ch Zoological museum, (stuffed) animals you can touch, and examine and much more. Qwww.zm.uzh.ch Nonam, the history of North American Natives is displayed for children, activities too. See p. 39. Qwww.nonam.ch MÜHLERAMA Everything you ever wanted to know about your daily bread. This former-mill-become-museum has a whole lot to say about growing wheat, milling flour and baking bread. The industrial mill is still functional and is put into action every day at 15:00 by a miller on site. With lots of hands-on exhibits, this is a good place to go with children (age 5+) and explanations are available in English. There are baking lessons every last Saturday of the month and each Wednesday evening you can bake your own bread (bring your dough or buy ingredients in the museum shop). In the shop you can buy different kinds of flour, books, snacks and more. Take tram N°2 or 4 in the direction of Tiefenbrunnen.QSeefeldstrasse 231, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41) 44 422 76 60, www.muehlerama.ch. Open 14:00 - 18:00, Wed 14:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. Admission 15/9Sfr.
This mini-mill at Mühlerama definitely needs to be checked out!
KAFI FÜR DICH This café next to the park Bäckeranlage has a children’s corner where your young ones can paint the walls with chalk or play with one of the many toys while you sit and have a coffee or a drink. On weekends the place is so popular with parents you have to weave your way through the many push chairs standing around. Well worth a visit even without your kids.QC-11, Stauffacherstrasse 141, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 317 91 60, www.fuerdich.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
SWEET CHOCOLATE MOMENTS CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE
The Chocolat Frey visitor centre just 39 minutes from Zurich central station by public transport Free entry to the Café Frey with its chocolate factory playground and to the Boutique Frey Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre Bresteneggstrasse 4 | CH-5033 Buchs bei Aarau Tel. 0041 (0) 62 836 24 25, firstname.lastname@example.org www.chocolatfrey.ch
October – November 2018 57
Leisure There are plenty of things to do in and around Zurich. Show your friends and colleagues who’s boss with a competitive game of laser tag or show off your smarts in an escape room. If, on the other hand, you just want to warm up, then visit a thermal bath or a hammam.
Laser Arena: there’s nothing more fun than a laser gun.
SPORTS SKATING RINK DOLDER (KUNSTEISBAHN) Surrounded by woods above Zurich, the Dolder skating rink is a great little winter getaway. If there is snow, it looks like a winter fairytale up here. Take tram N°3, 8 or 15 to Römerhof and then hop on the little red Dolderbahn, a cogwheel railway, up to the last station (6 minutes). There’s a self-service restaurant on site.QAdlisbergstrasse 36, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41) 44 267 70 80, www.doldereisbahn.ch. Open from October 5, 2018 March 10, 2019, daily 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 17:45. Wed ice rink closed from 17:30 - 19:15. Admission 8/6/4Sfr, families 40Sfr. (incl. skates), ice skate rental 8Sfr.
ANIMAL PARKS WILDNISPARK ZÜRICH Zurich Wildlife Park features two different attractions at two different locations not very far from one another. At Langenberg you’ll find wild animals like bears, deer, European bison, otters, beavers, wild boar and many more creatures (in enclosures). All of them are indigenous to Switzerland and can be watched here almost as if they were still in the wild. The other attraction is Sihlwald, a protected forest which has largely been left to its own devices, so animals and little adventurers feel very much at home here. It’s accessible from Sihlwald, where you’ll also find a visitor centre (closed Nov - Feb), which offers suggestions on where to hike in this wilderness area.Get there from Zurich’s main train station with the S4 train (SZU). For Langenberg (enclosures) exit at Wildpark-Höfli. From there it’s a 30-minute walk. For Sihlwald (forest and visitor centre) leave the train at Sihlwald.QAlte Sihltalstrasse 38, Sihlwald, tel. (+41) 44 722 55 22, www.wildnispark.ch. Restaurant and visitor centre in the park open March - October. The forest and most of the enclosures are accessible year round. 58 Zurich In Your Pocket
ZURICH ZOO Zurich Zoo is located on Zürichberg high above the city. The pride of this zoological garden, which was opened in 1929, is the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the ecosystem in the Masoala National Park in Madagascar across some 10,000m2. Animals like lemurs or giant tortoises can move freely around in the hall as you watch and walk by on a path through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled, a chameleon might be sitting on a branch right next to you. But the rainforest is not the only thing worth seeing. Since 1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually been changing the traditional-style enclosures into whole ecosystems which better meet the animals’ needs. An Indian dry forest for the lions, a Eurasian wetland, Himalayan mountains (snow leopards, wolves, a Siberian tiger) and African mountains (gelada monkeys, Nubian ibex) have already been opened, the latest being the all-new 11,000m2 elephant park. QL‑10, Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo, tel. (+41) 848 96 69 83, www.zoo.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Nov - Feb open 09:00 - 17:00. Masoala hall opens all year at 10:00. Admission 26/21(16 - 20 years)/13Sfr, free for kids up to 5 years.
FUN & GAMES LASER ARENA & PAINTBALL Yay! Zurich finally has laser tag! Hide behind obstacles on different floors and tag as many of your opponents with your laser gun as possible to score points. But watch out, or you might get tagged yourself. That said, it’s worth mentioning that unlike paintball, this is a completely harmless game, so no protective gear is required. All you need is a laser gun and a sensor on your chest to play. The Laser Arena is a big space that can accommodate up to 24 players and you can play with two big teams or split up into smaller groups. A game lasts 12 minutes and the person or team with the highest score wins. Make a reservation on its website or just drop by to have some great laser fun with friends, family or colleagues. They also run a paintball arena a 40-minutes drive from Zurich (www.paintball-arena.ch).QD‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 178, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 848 31 23 12, www.laser-arena.ch. Open Wed 14:00 - 22:00, Thu 18:00 - 22:00, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. One 12-minute game costs 15Sfr for adults and 12Sfr for children under 16 years. Book more than two games and get a discount. ZURICHESCAPE Escape games seem to be popping up all over the place. The basic idea is simple. You and your team are locked in a room and have 60 minutes to reach the exit. You achieve this by solving puzzles, finding hidden objects and working together as a team. At ZurichEscape you can choose between three different rooms, each with its own theme. In addition to this, it also offers both indoor and outdoor escape missions. For these you’ll have to leave the premises to solve the riddles and accomplish the zurich.inyourpocket.com
Leisure task. Games are meant for two to six players. No German is needed as solutions are primarily found using symbols and numbers and the rules are explained in English beforehand. Book a time slot on its website.QD‑11, Zeughausstrasse 51, 8Sihlpost/Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 317 19 19, www.zurichescape.ch. First game starts daily 10:00, last one at 20:00. Book slots on its website. Prices start at 90Sfr and depend on the room, the time and the size of the group.
A hammam is the ideal way to recharge your batteries, especially at Stadtbad. PD
THERMAL BATHS & CO STADTBAD HAMMAM & SPA Turkish-style steam baths, hammams, have become very popular in recent years. This one in the cellars of the Volkshaus boasts some arty concrete architecture. But you come here to relax, right? In keeping with oriental traditions there is a hot stone in the centre of the open space to relax on - niches to wash and rub your skin, a sauna, a footbath, and more are grouped around it. There is also a relax area and a café. A variety of massages and treatments is available.QD‑11, Stauffacherstr. 60, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 04 27, www.stadtbadzuerich.ch. Open 11:00 -23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 -22:00, Wed women only. Sat 10:00 - 14:00 for kids. Admission hammam 48Sfr, sauna 32Sfr.
BILLIARDS & BOWLING BILLIARDINO Didn’t you want to remind your friends who is king of billiards? With 46 pool and 7 snooker tables, darts and videogames Billiardino is an entertainment Eldorado in the middle of the nightlife district Zurich West. Besides the sports there is a bar with pizza and pasta to please your stomach. You’ll find Billiardino behind the Abaton multiplex cinema.QC‑8, Heinrichstrasse 245, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. (+41) 43 960 33 33, www. billiardino.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 25/28Sfr per hr. BOWLING WEST Bowling West is located in Schlieren, just three stops with the S-train from Zurich’s main train station (S12 or S3 direction Baden/Brugg or Aarau). In Schlieren cross to the northern side of the tracks and walk five minutes back in the direction where the train came from. This bowling centre has 17 lanes and a bar to relax after some gruelling competition. There is billiards, table football and darts as well. Booking by phone recommended.QIfangstrasse 8, Schlieren, tel. (+41) 44 731 02 06, www.bowling-west.ch. Open 14:00 23:00, Fri & Sat 14:00 - 01:30, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. June - Aug 17:00 - 23:00, Wed 14:00 - 23:00, Fri 17:00 01:00, Sat 14:00- 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00, Tue closed. 38 - 47Sfr per hour and lane. THERMALBAD & SPA ZÜRICH Zurich’s only thermal bath is located in the buildings that once were home to the brewery Hürlimann in Zurich Enge using the spring water that was once sold for drinking as Aqui. There are different pools, some of them in the old stone cellars as well as an outdoor area on the rooftop open all year, with a view over the city and towards the Alps. Besides whirlpools, massage jets and resting zones there is a Irish-Roman Spa area with ten different stations like a peeling niche or herbal steam for complete relaxation (extra fee applies).QC‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 205 96 50, www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 36/18Sfr, children up to 6 years free.
OBERER ZÜRICHSEE | ZÜRICH CITY | LUZERN | BASEL | BERN facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
October – November 2018 59
Day trips If you have some more time on your hands you might want to explore a bit further afield and leave Zurich for a day. Many scenic destinations also offer cultural sites. We’ve put together a selection of our favourites. And there are plenty of other options to consider such as museums and monasteries. For more recommendations check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.
CULTURE & HERITAGE ENEA TREE MUSEUM (BAUMMUSEUM) The world’s first and only tree museum is located on Lake Zurich, close to Rapperswil-Jona. A selection of trees from the collection of Swiss landscape architect and tree collector Enzo Enea are on display at the 75,000sqm park. By creating a series of open spaces the architect has shown how trees can be used as space creating objects while using their aesthetics and paying respect to the absolutely vital function they serve. Furthermore, the Enea tree collection uses only trees from the Central European climate zone. With this museum Enea thoroughly combined his vision of merging architecture, landscapes, botany, art and design. The museum boasts over 50 trees from more than 25 species, some of which are over 100 years old, and a further 100 trees and plants are located in the park surrounding the tree museum. Since 2013, sculptures by contemporary artists have been on display in the park, creating a unique choreography of art work and trees. A beautiful and definitely rather special experience. QBuechstrasse 12, Jona, tel. (+41) 55 225 55 55, www.enea.ch/baummuseum. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Nov - Feb open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. Admission 15/12Sfr. To get there from Zurich take a train to Rapperswil, than bus 622 to St. Dionys or Bus 621 to Buechstrasse West (48 minutes all in all). PUMPKIN EXHIBITION (JUCKERHOF SEEGRÄBEN) They really take pumpkins seriously at Juckerhof! There are dozens of huge sculptures – yes, made of pumpkins – and then there are several hundred (!) varieties of pumpkins to admire, some of them for sale, if you like. Of course there is a restaurant which serves all kinds of pumpkin dishes. You and your kids can also carve pumpkins, tools are provided. An impressive and slightly quirky destination which children love. A little walk takes you to pretty lake Pfäffikon just next to the farm.QDorfstrasse 23, Seegräben, tel. (+41) 44 934 34 84, www.juckerfarm.ch. Pumpkin exhibition 2018 open daily until November 4. Until October restaurant and shop open until 22:00, in Nov until 18:00. To get there, take the S14 train in direction of Hinwil, get off at Aathal. From there it’s a 20 minute walk. On busy days (weekend with sunny weather mostly) there is a shuttle bus to the farm (5Sfr). 60 Zurich In Your Pocket
MUSEUMS & ART FONDATION BEYELER The Fondation Beyeler near Basel is well worth a visit, not just if you’re a lover of classic modernism. This art museum shows the collection of late art dealers Ernst Beyeler and Hilda Kunz. Many of the 200 works by Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne, Vincent van Gogh, Mark Rothko, Andy Warhol and many others are permanently on show. They have temporary exhibitions that usually draw a lot of attention and quite a crowd. Currently a retrospective of Balthus (1908 - 2001) is on show. The museum is embedded in the Berowerpark in Basel’s suburb Riehen. To get there take a train to Basel, from there a tram takes you to the stop Riehen, Fondation Beyeler.QBaselstrasse 101, Riehen, tel. (+41) 61 645 97 00, www.fondationbeyeler.ch. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 25Sfr. In 2018 under 25-years old are free.
Only in autumn: the quirky pumpkin exhibition at Jucker Farm. PD
SWISS MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT (VERKEHRSHAUS) The Swiss Museum of Transport (Verkehrshaus) is the most popular museum in Switzerland. It tells the story of the development of transport and mobility by road, rail and water as well as in the air and outer space - and how it affects everyday life. More than 3,000 objects like planes, steam engines and cars are on display on more than 20,000sqm. In the Swissarena you can walk around on an aerial photograph of Switzerland with a scale of 1:20,000 - or be a TV presenter for a couple of minutes in the Media World and take home a recording of your performance. This museum is very much hands-on, not just things to look at. And in every section there are special activities for children - a good choice for the family not just on a rainy day! To get there from Zurich, take a train to Luzern (55 minutes) and then bus N°6, 8 or 24 in direction Verkehrshaus (10 minutes).QLidostrasse 5, Luzern, tel. (+41) 41 370 44 44, www.verkehrshaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, (in winter 10:00 - 17:00). Admission 32/22/12Sfr. Planetarium, chocolate adventure and filmtheatre not included. zurich.inyourpocket.com
Day trips MOUNTAIN TOURS
The Fondation Beyeler, home of the Beyeler art collection.
OUTDOOR DESTINATIONS HÖRNLI - HIKING AND DOWNHILL SCOOTERS At a height of 1133 metres a.s.l. the Hörnli is the highest mountain in the canton of Zurich. It’s perfect for a short hike through forests and grassland and an easy peak even if you are not much into mountains. Up on the Hörnli you have a view over the hills of Zürich and towards the eastern Alps. Take for example a train to Steg and hike to the top in around 1.5 h. On the peak there is a restaurant where you can rent a kick scooter to ride downhill back to the train station (20/15Sfr).QHörnli, Steg, tel. (+41) 55 245 12 02, www.berggasthaus-hoernli.ch. Open daily 09:00 - 18:00. To get to Steg, take the S15 train to Rüti, there change to the S26 (destination Winterthur). Duration: 51 minutes. Call to prebook scooters. MOUNT RIGI Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for spectacular views of the Alps and the easy access. The majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and Lake Lauerz. Don’t forget to bring a jacket as it can be chilly at 1,800 metres above sea level. There are two cogwheel railways going up the Rigi from two different sides, one starting in Arth-Goldau, the other one in Vitznau. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau is Europe’s first mountain railway. At the top there are several restaurants, around 120 kilometres of hiking trails and covered picnic and barbecue spots. Hikers have the option of walking down just part of the way, as the train has several stops where you can jump back on. The fastest way from Zurich is to take a train to Arth-Goldau (duration 40 minutes) from where the cogwheel train takes you to the top in another 40 minutes.QRigi Bahnen AG, Vitznau, tel. (+41) 41 399 87 87, www.rigi.ch. From Vitznau roughly from 09:00 - 22:00. From Weggis daily from 08:00 - 19:00. From Arth-Goldau from 08:00 - 18:00 (16:00 in winter). Check website for exact timetables. Return ticket to Rigi (so called daypass) 72/36Sfr. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS Day trips organised by tour operators are an easy way to explore Switzerland and its gorgeous mountains. Forget the hassle with timetables, itineraries and the like. Just snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for example offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the rotating gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres asl), where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier await you. They also have a city tour to Luzern. Just check their website for available tours and book up to a day before - online or by phone. The tour busses leave from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just next to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station, F-10). Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50. TITLIS - ENGELBERG A rotating gondola takes you from the village of Engelberg up to Titlis at more than 3,000m above sea level. There you have spectacular views of the glacier and dozens of mountains, which completely surround you here. Best of all, there are all kinds of snow and ice activities that await you here including snow tubing (whiz down the piste on a rubber tyre), a cliff walk and ice that’s up to 5,000 years old in the ice cave. A number of different restaurants are also available and after you’ve filled your belly you can walk it off with many ambitious hiking options or a leisurely stroll around Lake Trübsee. Activities include scooter and mountain bike rental, just to name a few.QGerschnistrasse 12, Engelberg, tel. (+41) 41 639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. First ascent 08:30, last ascent 16:00. Runs all year. Closed for maintenance November 5 - 16, 2018.
A journey with a rotating gondola up to the eternal snow and ice on Mount Titlis. PD
October – November 2018 61
Queer Zurich Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better proof than the re-election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor in spring 2018 (in office since 2009)? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re hetero. Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in spring or summer. For over ten years a Christopher Street Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival (www.zurichpridefestival.ch) today, this is a huge event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful parade through the city. In spring, the Pink Apple film festival (April 30 - May 9, 2019, www.pinkapple.ch) shows gay and lesbian films from all over the world and awards a prize to one young director. But the queer scene is also very lively, big events aside. Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly bar to relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more raunchy variety, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the websites we list or just ask around in some of the bars.
PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the top of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney M and what have you as well. Host Peter is well known - especially for his drag performances. A cosy place for some nostalgic merrymaking.QH‑12, Seilergraben 13, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch. Open 18:30 - late. Closed Mon, Sun. A PREDIGERHOF The Predigerhof in the centre of the Niederdorf area is a sure bet, open 365 days a year until two in the morning. Order one of their sandwiches and a beer - or step it up a little and choose one of their champagnes. Maybe Lotti, the famed landlady, will join you. You can ask the Thai and Swiss staff for tips for gay events - but maybe you’ll just want to stay here, if they’re showing a game of soccer or the Eurovision song contest.QG‑12, Mühlegasse 15, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 251 29 85, www.predigerhof.ch. Open 14:00 - 02:00. A
CLUBS HEAVEN The Heaven is a cosy queer club featuring music from charts and house to more underground tastes like deep house.QG‑12, Spitalgasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, www.heavenclub.ch. Open Fri & Sat 23:00 - 06:00. A
The Zurich Pride festival is an extravaganza.
CAFÉS & BARS DANIEL H. Daniel H. is a low-key star in Zurich’s gay bar scene. With no exuberant glamour and just the occasional party, Daniel H. is very relaxed and heterofriendly. The finger food on offer is also quite a treat. Good place to pick up flyers on gay parties and events in Zurich.QD‑11, Müllerstrasse 51, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 41 78, www.danielh.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. AK HELDENBAR Here you’re off the beaten track and on the territory of the non-commercial gay scene. The Heldenbar (hero’s bar) which only comes alive on Wednesdays is a purely non-profit affair. Sometimes the DJs are professional, sometimes totally amateur, the style of music changes from week to week. If you don’t want to dance, step outside with your beer for a chat on the banks of the river Limmat just behind the venue. Or take up a table-football challenge.QD‑8, Provitreff, Sihlquai 240, 8Quellenstrasse, www.heldenbar.ch. Open Wed 20:00 - 01:00. No admission. 62 Zurich In Your Pocket
RAGE Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on the weekend.QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch. Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Admission 8-20Sfr. AX
RESOURCES GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE This is a Zurich-centred gay online community with English-language content. There’s a chat area, personals and a listing of up-coming events and info on gay venues. It’s free, for some services you have to register.Qwww.gaymeboys.com. LGBT+ HELPLINE LGBT+ Helpline offers telephone counselling and operates as a registration office for homophobic violence. Counselling for non-emergency matters is available Mon - Thu 19:00 - 21:00. In case of homophobic violence you can call 24hrs to report the incident, or report the incident online. Counselling is in German but many counsellors speak at least some English. It’s free to call. The number is (+41) 800 133 133.Qtel. (+41) 800 133 133, www.lgbt-helpline.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com
Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly
H Conference facilities
R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre
L Parking on site
8 Nearest tram station
C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly
W Wi-fi connection
J City centre location
THE DOLDER GRAND Set high above the city, the five-star superior Dolder Grand is probably the city’s most exclusive hotel. In 2008 British architect Norman Foster added two meandering wings to the fairy-tale-castle main building from 1899. The result is an amazing mix of modernity and tradition. And no matter in which part of the hotel you book your room, the comfort and the amenities offered are uncountable. Either modern design and generous floor-to-ceiling windows in the new wings or the sense of history in the main building. The sumptuous in-house spa and art from Warhol to Dalì are just some of the elements that make this a truly extraordinary hotel.QKurhausstrasse 65, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41) 44 456 60 00, www.thedoldergrand.com. 175 rooms. APULR6WKHC DF hhhhh
UPMARKET Zurich is a business destination first and foremost - and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this, accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is something for any taste and almost any budget. In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with stars from one to five. The categorization is done by hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels according to their official classification in the following categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification we list some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.
25HOURS HOTEL ZÜRICH WEST With the use of many lush colours local designer of renown Alfredo Häberli has made the 25hours a very cool and perhaps slightly crazy place - matching its location in Zurich’s fast developing district Zürich West. The city and its more or less known sights can be found throughout the hotel, just keep your eyes open! The rooms come in three different categories which differ mainly in size. In the silver category there is a window to peek from the bathroom to the bedroom - just one of the more surprising, playful touches here.QPfingstweidstrasse 102, 8Toni-Areal, tel. (+41) 44 577 25 25, www.25hours-hotels.com. 126 rooms. APU L6W KH D hhhh
CREAM OF THE CROP RENAISSANCE ZURICH TOWER HOTEL This hotel opened in 2011 in the fast developing district Zurich West. The 300 rooms on the 15 floors of the pentagonal tower all come with full-height windows with a dazzling view over the everchanging one-time industrial district. The rooms have a more than respectable size, stylish dark parquet flooring and either one king-size bed or two doubles (1.40m each). Aluminium prints of the industrial past of the district hanging on the walls make a counterpoint to the classy dark magenta easy-chairs and the standard lamps. There is a gym for your workout, a sauna, a restaurant and a bar and room service of course.QA‑8, Turbinenstrasse 20, 8Techno-parkstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 630 30 30, www.renaissancezurichtower.com. 300 rooms. AP U L R 6 W K H D F hhhhh facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
The Dolder Grand castle in its autumn dress.
CROWNE PLAZA The Crowne Plaza is situated close to the Letzigrund stadium 13 minutes from the city centre by tram. The 365 rooms come in a mix of bright and light brown hues, with either a queen-size or two twin-size beds, a shower or a bathtub and free tea and coffee making facilities. Upgrade your room to a deluxe for more work space and a couch lounge.QBadenerstrasse 420, 8Letzigrund, tel. (+41) 44 404 44 44, www.cpzurich.ch. 365 rooms. APU BLR6WKH F hhhh October – November 2018 63
Hotels BUDGET HOTELS MARTA The Marta is a functional hotel, very centrally located in the Niederdorf, just a few minutes away from the main train station. The blue coloured rooms have a modern feel. There is a twin bed, a bathroom with shower and a flatscreen TV in every room, as well as Wi-fi throughout the hotel. The hotel is run by a non-profit cooperation, giving socially challenged women an opportunity to work. There is no air-conditioning but ventilators. QG‑11, Zähringerstrasse 36, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 269 95 95, www.hotelmarta.ch. 39 rooms. AU J6W H hh
CENTRAL PLAZA Central is in the name, and central it is indeed. The old town starts right in front of the main entrance. With a tram junction next to the hotel, it’s not the quietest spot - but the triple glazing shuts out the city‘s noise. Standard rooms are rather small, but live up to the standard you can expect of a hotel of this class. There is free Wi-fi. Ask for a room with a view onto the river or one of the tworoom junior suites. One of the suites even has a glass ceiling so you can watch the stars while you fall asleep. No air-conditioning but an air cooling system. Fitness room, piano bar and King’s Cave restaurant - known for its
excellent sirloin - are in the building too.QG‑11, Central 1, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 256 56 56, www.central.ch. 103 rooms. AXUELJR6WKHF hhhh FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON SIHLCITY This four-star hotel is housed in what was once the warehouse of a 19th-century paper mill. The listed columns and windows are subtly integrated into the architecture and give the hotel a distinct urban-industrial touch. There are five different room types, all offering large showers, huge beds and flat screen TVs with internet access. Mineral water, internet, national calls and coffee are included. The Four Points Hotel is located in the shopping mall Sihlcity which includes a multiplex cinema, restaurants and excellent connections to the city centre and the lake by tram and train (8 min). The fitness centre Fitnesspark Sihlcity is located in the same building and offers discounted entry for hotel guests.QC-16, Kalandergasse 1, 8Sihlcity Nord, tel. (+41) 44 554 00 00, www.fourpointssihlcity.com. 132 rooms. AP ULR6 WKH hhhh H+ HOTEL ZÜRICH The H+ is situated next to the Letzigrund sports stadium, a 15-minute tram ride from the city centre. It was opened in 2011 and offers four-star comfort at reasonable prices. The huge flowers on the wallpaper give the modern rooms a fresh touch. There is an exercise room, a sauna and a
Eating with all senses THE VBZ GOURMET LINE On the VBZ gourmet line, we‘ll be serving you the most interesting views of Zurich in the rolling restaurant, a vintage tram. Please have a seat: www.vbz.ch/yummytram
genusslinie englisch 124 x 90mm.indd 64 Zurich In Your Pocket
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bistro with a nice garden. All rooms are non-smoking. QBadenerstrasse 537, 8Freihofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 437 99 00, www.h-hotels.com/zuerich. 159 rooms. APUBLR6WKHDF hhhh
palais kraft Residential Club
HOTEL OPERA ZÜRICH The Hotel Opera Zürich is a very classical boutique hotel with a slightly modern touch. Located in the fashionable Seefeld district, this is a convenient place to stay not only for a visit to Zurich’s opera: Bahnhofstrasse with its boutiques as well as the historic old town is just two tram stops away. The lakefront is close too - if you get a room on the third floor or higher you might even get a glimpse of the lake. Their restaurant Opera across the street is well known for its fish specialities.QH‑15, Dufourstrasse 5, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 258 98 98, www.operahotel.ch. 58 rooms. APLJR6W hhhh
MID-RANGE BRISTOL The Bristol is just a 5-minute walk from the main train station. That means all the city’s central sights are in walking distance. The rooms here are modern and simple: they all have a wooden floor, a flat-screen TV and come with either a single, a grand lit or two single beds. There are also rooms with three and four beds - ideal for families. Note there is no air-conditioning.QG‑10, Stampfenbachstrasse 34, 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 258 44 44, www.hotelbristol.ch. 56 rooms. AJR6WH hhh SCHEUBLE The Scheuble is situated in a historic building in the centre of the Niederdorf district and has been completely refurbished in winter 2017/18. It is now a three star superior hotel with character, the rooms feature dark parquet flooring and can be had as twin with two beds or with one double bed.QG‑12, Mühlegasse 17, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 268 48 00, www.scheuble.ch. 64 rooms. ALJ R6WK hhh
YOUR PRIVATE APARTMENT 30-200 SQM FOR SHORT & LONG STAYS FRIENDLY ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF CHILDREN & PETS WELCOME
HOSTELS YOUTH HOSTEL This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There are also private doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24 hours reception and cheap meals (20Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a five-minute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to the centre. On the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops right in front of the hostel all night long. Great place to meet other travellers. QMutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental, tel. (+41) 43 399 78 00, www.youthhostel.ch/zurich. 76 rooms. AUWKH facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE WWW.PALAISKRAFT.COM October – November 2018 65
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Scale 1:8 800 1 cm = 88 m
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© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.
Index 4Leoni Firenze 20 16tons 43 25hours Hotel Zürich West 63 Wirtschaft im Franz 26 Airside Center at Zurich Airport 44 Alkena 56 Andorra 28 Au-Gust 24 Bar 63 29 Bar Basso 22 Bebek 22 Best of Switzerland Tours 61 Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour 39 Beyer Watches & Jewellery 52 Billiardino 59 Bodega Espanola 23 Botanischer Garten 36 Boutique Christian Fischbacher 48 Bovelli 27 Bowling West 59 Brasserie Federal 26 Bristol 65 Bucherer 52 Burton Store Zürich 46 Butchers Table 23 Cabinet 44 Café Boy 24 Calvados 28 Central Plaza 63 Chäsalp 19 Chocolat Dieter Meier 43 Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre 56 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 52 Coming Soon 16 Commercio 20 Cooper's Pub 33 Corso 12 Crowne Plaza 63 Daniel H. 62 DeeCee Style 44 Didi's Frieden 17 Die Waid 24 Dolce & Gabbanna 50 Dolmetsch 50 Edi’s Weinstube 31 Edomae 21 eldorado 28 El Luchador 23 Enea Tree Museum 60 Erfolg 48 fidelio women 44 FIFA World Football Museum37 Fondation Beyeler 60 Four Points by Sheraton Sihlcity 64 Franz Carl Weber 47, 56 Fraumünster 34 Freitag 48 Gamper Bar 30 GANT 45 Gartenhof 19 gaymeboys.com online magazine 62 Gellner & Friends 52 Giacometti murals 34
Giesserei Oerlikon Globus Delicatessa Grossmünster Gübelin Heaven Heldenbar Helvti Diner Bellevue H+ Hotel Zürich Hörnli - hiking and downhill scooters Hotel Opera Zürich Icon Im Viadukt IWC Schaffhausen Boutique Jack & Jo (Europaallee) Jaime El Barco Jelmoli Jimmy Choo Juicery 21 Jules Verne Panorama Bar Kafi Dihei Kafi für Dich Kai Kaufleuten Kennedy's Irish Pub Khujug Kindercity Kokoro Kronenhalle Kunsthaus Kurz Jewellery and Watches La Côte Lake Zurich Cruises Laser Arena & Paintball Le Dézaley Les Ambassadeurs Les Halles LGBT+ Helpline Lindenhof Longstreet Lucky Noodle Maison Manesse Manor Marc O'Polo Marktküche Mars Bar Marta Max Chocolatier Maxim Mehrspur Meng Cutlery Mère Catherine Mesa messer-scharf Minirock Mohrenkopf Moods Moudi Mount Rigi Mühlerama Napa Grill National Museum (Landesmuseum) Nonam Och Sport Orell Füssli - The Bookshop Orsini Osswald
33 48 35 52 62 62 16 64 61 65 32 46 52 17 33 44 47 27 29 27 57 33 32 32 17 56 21 24 38 53 18 35 58 19 53 22 62 36 30 17 18 44 45 20 30 64 43 31 32 51 18 18 51 32 25 32 22 61 57 23 38 39 47 43 20 47
Oxblood Shoes 48 Papa Ceviche 23 Péclard im Schober 27 Perron 9 33 Petra's Tip Top Bar 62 Pic-Chic 19 Pinko 50 Plaza 32 Predigerhof 62 Pumpkin exhibition 60 Raclette Factory 19 Rage 62 Renaissance Zurich Tower Hotel 63 RiffRaff 12 Rive Gauche 29 Rüsterei 25 Safari Bar 31 Scheuble 65 Schweizer Finanzmuseum (Finance Museum) 37 Schweizer Heimatwerk 51 Secret Tantra 31 Sihlcity 46 Sihlpost 9 Skating rink Dolder 58 Spitz 25 Stadtbad Hammam & Spa 59 Stefi Talman 48 St. Peter 36 Strellson Store 45 Swarovski 53 Swimming baths Oerlikon 56 Swiss Casinos Zürich 29 Swiss Shop 1291 51 TA-BOU 48 Talacker 30 Tales 30 Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 51
The Alehouse 29 the Gallery 43 The Giacomettis 36 The International 29 The North Face Store 47 Thermalbad & Spa Zürich 59 The Zurich Experience City Tour 40 tibits 20 tibits Oerlikon 33 Tissot Boutique 53 Titlis - Engelberg 61 Tooché 45 Tres Amigos 33 Trois Pommes - The Store Women 50 Turm 22 Uetliberg 35 Vainard 53 Valentino 50 Victorinox Flagship Store 51 Wasserkirche 36 Weinschenke 30 Weisser Wind 26 Welschland 48 Widder Garage 28 Wildnispark Zürich 58 Yooji's Dreikönig 21 Youth Hostel 65 Zero Zero Rare Groove 43 Zeughauskeller 26 Zum Grobe Ernst - La Tavolata 21 Zum Grünen Glas 19 Zunfthaus zur Haue 19 ZurichEscape 58 zürichfoto.ch 51 Zurich Zoo 58
FEATURES INDEX Adult entertainment Breakfast Casino Cheese restaurants Domestic Intercity Buses Game season Lake Zurich Language smarts Live music Luxury shopping More for less with the Zürich Card National holidays Supersaver tickets for trains Swiss cuisine Taxi smarts Tax free shopping The Giacomettis Tourist Information Useful Zurich apps
31 27 29 19 6 24 35 9 32 50 38 8 6 22 5 52 36 9 8
October – November 2018 69
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Bus (nos. 31–916)
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Bahnhof Limmatschiff Tiefenbrunnen
Epi-Klinik Bus (Nr. 31–916)
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t r. hs lic
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ZVV fare zone
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Enge Hafen Sukkulentensammlung
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15 11 4 0
et r. st er s l 83
Messe|Hallenstadion Dorflinde Herbstweg
Fl 89 A ur s r a l b i t r. nk s -
en t t rd te N o
lk ap em 33
en ld en t t en L ä ies w m ru
S8 S14 S19
lid Si Design: e-team design GmbH | Realisation: PostAuto Region Zürich
Güterbahnhof Bäckeranlage Helvetiaplatz
Bhf. Oerlikon Ost
Lindbergh-Allee Chavez-Allee Wright-Strasse Fernsehstudio
Bhf. Oerlikon Nord
ts 78 A l f.
Giebeleichstr. OPFIKON Oberhusen
Seebach Her tensteinstr.
tb B r u hf gg .
Fronwald Bahnhof Affoltern
Birch-| Glatttalstr. 75
Stadt Zürich | Zurich City Im Ebnet Käshaldenstr. Köschenrüti Leimgrübelstr. Schönauring
K AT ZENSEE
S2 S16 S24
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