Where to Stay

The Albanian capital’s hotel scene is as dynamic as ever, with a new Marriott opening in August beside the national stadium, and Hyatt set to take over the former Sheraton by the Grand Park. Besides the big hitters, Tirana features a place to stay on almost every street, including a dazzling array of mid-range hotels and hostels. If you’re sleeping on a budget in Tirana, consider how near to a mosque you are; the first call to prayers of the day can be depressingly early. Room prices listed here include breakfast unless otherwise mentioned, and hotel categories are based on the price of the cheapest double room (listed in euros though payment is in lek).

CREAM OF THE CROP

ARTÉ BOUTIQUE HOTEL Set in a gem of a building sandwiched between more modern high-rises, the Arté Boutique Hotel is a charming place with spacious, quiet rooms, great service and a beautiful restaurant with a terrace. And in the middle of the Blloku area, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to food and entertainment.QH-4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 32, tel. +355 68 409 92 22, www. artehotel.al. 14 rooms (singles €125, doubles €135, 2 suites €150). APGBKH

MAK HOTEL TIRANA Between the city centre and the Grand Park, the former Sheraton and future Hyatt hotel offers world-class services and amenities. The lovely large rooms come with comfy beds and wooden floors, and suites have extra seating areas and bathtubs. The restaurant, gym and pool are all top-notch as well. The rooms face either the city or the park, you choose.QJ-5, Sheshi Italia, tel. +355 4 227 47 07/+355 (0) 69 208 7151, www.makalbania.com. 151 rooms (singles €90-130, 95 doubles €110-150, 55 suites €150-2000). APGUBLKHCDFOw

MARITIM HOTEL PLAZA TIRANA Inside the interesting-looking skyscraper just east of Sheshi Skënderbej, Maritim Plaza Tirana offers a mighty collection of services together with almost 200 rooms spread out on 23 floors. Besides the views, guests can enjoy a gym open around the clock, a luxury spa and no less than three restaurants.QF-5, Rr. Abdi Toptani 18, tel. +355 4 221 12 21, www.plazatirana.com. 190 rooms (singles €120-150, doubles €146-256, suites €386). APGUBLJKHDFw

ROGNER HOTEL TIRANA One of Albania’s top hotels both for its services and its reputation as a meeting point for locals and foreign visitors alike since 1995, the Rogner’s rooms are decked out with stylish wooden floors and furniture, some with balconies for some wonderful views. The highlight of the hotel is arguably its garden, complete with swimming pool, tennis court, putting green and

SYMBOL KEY

P Air-conditioning T Child-friendly A Credit cards accepted F Fitness centre H Conference facilities G Non-smoking U Facilities for the disabled K Restaurant K Restaurant C Swimming pool

playground, where the brilliant breakfast is served during the summer.QH-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, tel. +355 4 223 50 35, www.hotel-europapark.com. 178 rooms (134 double rooms, 18 deluxe rooms, 25 suites). APGUBLWKHCFi

UPMARKET

ARBËR Mercifully quiet compared to many other city centre hotels, the Arbër is a great little hotel hidden in the streets east of Sheshi Skënderbej. Inside, expect friendly service and small but well-appointed rooms. QE-4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 59, tel. +355 4 227 38 11, www.hotelarber.com. 24 rooms (5 singles €40, 18 doubles €50, 1 triple €60). APLJKH

BOKA A lovely city centre choice, this striking yellow Italianate building in the middle of the lively Pazari i Ri market district has comfortable rooms in 19th-century design, some with balconies. The basement breakfast room has the largest wrap-around aquarium we’ve seen, with fish eying your egg and bacon through the windows.QE-5, Rr. Shemsi Haka 4, tel. +355 68 494 35 12, www.hotel-boka.al. 20 Rooms(17 doubles €55-€65, Singles €45, 2 Triple €80-€90, 1 Family Room €100). APB

BRILANT ANTIK Central, quiet, family-run and welcoming, the Brilant Antik has grand rooms decorated with plenty of hand-carved wood. There’s a traditionally furnished Albanian/Italian restaurant in the basement.QF-5, Rr. Jeronim de Rada 79, tel. +355 4 225 11 66/+355 69 20 20 719, www.hotelbrilant.com. 15 rooms (singles €50- €60 doubles €65-€75). APGTLJRKHDw

Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek

CLASSIC Bursting with friendly staff, the smart, Scandinavian-style rooms at the Classic come in a choice of singles, twins and doubles, all featuring en suite facilities, reliable wireless internet connections and a few free newspapers in English. Good for business and independent travellers alike, there’s also a restaurant, bar and conference room.QF-1, Rr. Sulejman Delvina, tel. +355 69 808 00 69, www.classichotel. al. 14 rooms ( 3 singles €45, 9 doubles €55-65, 1 triple €65). APGUBLKH

GRAND SPA HOTEL The centrally placed Grand is still one of the city’s best, and its small size adds to its charm. The comfortable rooms are well insulated against street sounds emanating from the blloku, and the hotel also has some snazzy extras such as an indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi, gym and sauna (closed at time of writing).QH-3, Rr. Ismail Qemali 11, tel. +355 4 224 79 96, www.grandhoteltirana.com. 32 rooms (Singles €70, doubles €85, 2 suites €150). APGLKHF

GREEN HOUSE A small and charming business hotel above the eponymous restaurant on a quiet street yet near all the action. With well-designed boutique rooms and suites, some with a terrace, there’s room service around the clock. QG-5, Rr. Jul Varibova 6, tel. +355 69 205 7599, www. greenhouse.al. Non stop. 23 rooms (singles €60, doubles €70, 3 suites €90). APGLRKHILTON GARDEN INN Near an upcoming hotspot of restaurants and bars at the western end of the centre, the Hilton’s first Albanian hotel has bright, decent-sized rooms, many of them with balconies, a great breakfast, a keen eye for the needs of deiabled guests, and top-notch service. QG-1, Bv. Gjergj Fishta, tel. +355 4 220 0444, www. hiltongardeninntirana.com. 143 rooms (singles €6075, doubles €75-90, suites €105). APGTULKHF

KOTONI Sleep in the heart of Tirana’s administrative district. At the Kotoni the boutique rooms are large with high ceilings and modern facilities. The elegant hotel café terrace is where the who’s who of Albanian politics comes to have coffee.QH-4, Rr. Donika Kastrati 3, tel. +355 4 227

AIRPORT HOTEL

N HOTEL BY NOSHI A comfortable hotel near to the airport, with quiet rooms, personal service, a restaurant and a bar. Guests also have the convenience of the Hertz car rental office in the same building. Free airport transfers between 08:30-23:00.QRr. Rinasit, tel. +355 69 206 44 48, www.nhotelbynoshi.com. 11 rooms (singles €50-68, doubles €55-72, suites €80-88). PGBLK

48 88, www.hotelkotoni.com. 27 rooms (singles €75, doubles €90- €100, deluxe €105). APGUJK

OXFORD Unlike many of its type, the Oxford has been designed to fit in with its old Tirana surroundings for a change. Old outside but thoroughly modern inside, the halls and large guest rooms are decorated with modern paintings and works of art. Breakfast is served on the wonderful rooftop café, open for all to try Viennese pastries and snacks.QF-5, Rr. Xhorxhi Martini 10, tel. +355 4 225 5937/+355 4 22 55 937, www.hoteloxford.al/en. 28 rooms (2 singles €50, 23 doubles €60, 3 suites €80€120). APGUKHDF

PADAM HOTEL A stylish and central boutique hotel in a charming white villa, with six comfortably furnished rooms featuring contemporary artwork. Padam’s restaurant and terrace bar are excellent as well.QH-5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 69 202 5122, www.padam.al. 6 rooms (singles €60- €80, doubles €70- €100). APGBK

TE STELA Just off the Durres highway, halfway the city centre and the airport, Te Stela is a comfortable brewery-owned hotel with calm rooms, a restaurant and beergarden serving their very own Stela beer, brewed just down the road. For a small fee, guests can make use of the spa facilities which include a sauna, Jacuzzi, Turkish steam bath and ‘emotional showers’ and treatments including massage and manicure. For another fee, you can access the huge attached sports complex, with large indoor and outdoor semi-Olympic pools.QTirana-Durrës highway, km 7, tel. +355 67 203 33 09, www.testela.al. 100 rooms (singles €47, 33 doubles €63, 12 suites €78-90). APTLKCDF

THE ROOMS A particularly plugged-in hotel, where the the Apple TVs, lighting, curtains, shutters and other electronics in the stark white rooms are controlled via an iPad, whilst those staying in the business suites also get an iMac. All rooms have balconies, Nespresso machines and safes. Guests can also make use of the Nobis spa downstairs.QK-4, Rr. Sami Frasheri 56, Nobis complex, tel. +355 4 555 05 01, www.theroomsapartmentstirana.com. (Singles €35, doubles €45-50, apartments €65-105). APL6KCFw

TIRANA INTERNATIONAL HOTEL Built in the 1970s with help of the Chinese, for years Tirana’s main landmark was the only high-rise in the country and one of only three hotels in town accepting foreigners (in bugged rooms of course), with propaganda slogans on the roof and escape tunnels for the elite. The international-standard rooms here are fine now, though the building is completely dwarfed by the gigantic new

THE ALBANIAN WAY OF HOSPITALITY

hotel under construction right behind it.QE-4, Sheshi Skënderbej 8, tel. +355 4 223 41 85/+355 68 60 38 980, www.tiranainternational.com. 168 rooms (singles €116-133, doubles €126-145, suites €200-240). APGLRKHCDFw

XHEKO IMPERIAL A fascinating Albanian-style luxury hotel, the high-rise section offers over-the-top suites that drip with glam, each named after a famous painting. The open Jacuzzi bathrooms are any girl’s dream, and the fairy-tale silkdraped four-poster beds are really rather extravagant. Don’t miss the excellent rooftop bar.QI-4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 56, tel. +3554 2259574, www.xhekoimperial.com. 28 rooms (7 singles €110, 6 doubles €150, 15 suites €250-350). APLKHF

MID-RANGE

Good value. Doubles between €50 and €90.

CITY HOTEL A nice mid-range option in a quiet courtyard in the middle of an area of good bars and restaurants, City Hotel’s rooms are clean and basic, with minibars and decent internet. Breakfast is served in the room behind reception, and there’s a small supermarket around the corner.QH-5, Rr. Ismail Qemali 8/1, tel. +355 69 202 07 57, www.hotelcitytirana.com. 16 rooms (10 singles €32-60, 6 doubles €75). APGL

DIPLOMAT Originally Tirana’s first proper boutique hotel, this continues to be a popular choice with those who can afford their magnificent executive and deluxe rooms. The facilities boast everything one would expect from a hotel in this category, plus there’s a very good buffet breakfast on offer and an in-house spa featuring sauna, Jacuzzi and massage. West of the centre.QF-1, Blv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 69 203 04 57, www. diplomathotels.al. 26 rooms (2 singles €65, 24 doubles €75-€120). APGUELRKHDw

ELYSÉE A quality mid-range hotel featuring friendly service, a top location near the US and Italian embassies and a gurgling fountain. The rooms are modern and quiet, with king-sized beds and iron balconies, although there’s no lift to get you between the four floors. QH-5/6, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji 2/173, tel. +355 4 222 28 80, www.hotelelysee-al.com. 20 rooms (3 singles €39-45, 13 doubles €47-52, 4 triples €60). APBLK

Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek

BUDGET

FREDDY’S HOTEL Once one of very few affordable options in the city, Freddy’s is a marvellous family-run venture on a pleasantly quiet street that’s still among the best budget places to stay considering they almost give the rooms away for free. The rooms are basic to say the least, but there’s en suite bathrooms and Freddy himself, the amiable, English-speaking owner.QE-4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 75, tel. +355 68 203 52 61, www.freddyshotel.com. 14 rooms (12 twins €28, 1 triple €50,1 quadruple €59). APGL

HOSTELS

BUFF HOSTEL A relaxed hostel just east of the main square and Pazar i Ri market, Buff offers simple plywood-style dorm rooms with lockers and clean shared facilities, all at great prices. The private rooms with ensuite bathroom are especially good value. The owners are at hand to help with tips about Tirana and Albania.QE-6, Rr. Johan Fon Han 4, tel. +35567 401 18 10, www.buffhosteltirana.com. 9 rooms (dorm beds €9, 4 twins €20, 3 triples €30). NPXB

MILINGONA HOSTEL A hostel in an old house just a short walk Sheshi Skënderbej and near the Pazar i Ri market, ‘The Ant’ has clean dormitories with bunk beds and shared facilities, and private rooms, all with free breakfast. There’s a kitchen, laundry service, a nice garden, and the hostel organises pub crawls, tours and other activities.QE-6, Rr. Vehbi Agolli 11, tel. +355 69 207 00 76, www.milingonahostel.com. 10 rooms (dorm beds €8-18, 1 double €28-36, 1 triple €40). NPGBEW

TIRANA BACKPACKER HOSTEL Albania’s very first hostel opened in 2005, and after several reincarnations is now housed in a century-old Italian-style villa just off Rr. e Kavajës. What makes this place great is the welcoming reception, summer garden and the relaxed vibe. Facilities include a shared kitchen, bike rental (500 lek/day), and free breakfast. They organise affordable day trips (available to non-guests as well) to Dajti mountain, Kruja, wild beaches near Durres, and to Pellumbas village, where you can hike to an impressive cave and stay at house to experience Albanian mountain village life.QE-3, Rr. Bogdaneve 3, tel. +355 68 468 23 53, www.tiranahostel.com. 6 rooms (dorm beds from €10, singles €18, doubles €35). AP

TRIP’N HOSTEL Housed inside a colourful old villa and run by welcoming locals, the communal rooms here are filled with antiques and memorabilia. Each bunk bed has a locker, and the basement room is cool during the summer and warm and cosy with a fireplace in winter. Ask to see the Communist-era airraid shelter behind the building.QD/E-6, Rr. Musa Maci 1, tel. +355 68 304 89 05, www.tripnhostel.com. 7 rooms (dorm beds from €11). APB

QR PAYMENTS

POK An app for reliable payments and money transfers, set to launch this summer. Easy to set up, you can pay restaurant, bar or utility bills by scanning the vendor’s QR code, or use it to send and receive payments from others.QRr. Frang Bardhi, Qendra Kristal, tel. +355 69 704 72 31, www.pokpay.io.

The Cloud at the National Gallery of Arts

Dentists, hospitals, embassies and lots more.

PHARMACIES

DITË E NATË QRr. Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 67 733 3777, www. ditenate.al/en. Open 06:00-03:00.

GREEK PHARMA (FARMACIA GREKE) QBlv. Bajram Curri, Pallatet Agimi, tel. +355696035148, www.farmaciagreke.com. Open 08:00-22:00.

PHARMA NET QRr. Siri Kodra, Nr.8/660, Kat 1, tel. +355 69 609 9222, www.farma-net.com. Open 07:00-23:00.

PHARMATECH QD-5, Rr. Barrikadave, tel. +355 697033491, www. farmatech.al. Open 08:30-22:00; closed Sun.

DENTISTS

The Albanian for dental clinic is klinika dentare.

B.E.L DENT (KLINIKA BEL DENT) QBlv. Bajram Curri, Pallatet Agimi, Shk 7, tel. +355 68 282 0771.

DIAMOND DENTAL QKryqëzimi 21-Dhjetorit, tel. +355 67 20 81 818, www. diamond-dental.al.

EMERALD DENTAL CLINIC QRr. e Kavajes, Pallati me Shigjeta, tel. +355 69 205 72 77, www.emeraldental.com.

LEDISMILE DENTAL CLINIC QRr. Irfan Tomini, pall. Alfa, Shk.1, Ap.1, tel. +355 69 512 2299, www.ledismile.com. Open 09:00-19:00; closed Sun.

ORTHOLUX QH/I-5, Rr. Themistokli Germenji, tel. +355 69 404 2956, www.ortholux.com. PRODENT QF-1, Rr.Dervish Hima, Kati 2, tel. +355 67 200 1958, www.klinika-prodent.business.site. Open 08:30 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

TIRANA CENTER (KLINIKË DENTARE TIRANA CENTER) QG-3, Rr. e Dibrës, tel. +355 67 451 3186/04 223 1564, www.klinike-dentare-tirana-center.business.site. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-12:00; closed Sun.

UFO CLINIC (POLIKLINIKA DENTARE UFO) QF-2, Rr. Kavajës,Pallati 3, tel. +355 4 224 00 28, www. ufodentalclinic.com. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:0012:00; closed Sun.

OPTICIANS

ITALOPTIKE QD-5, Rr. Dibrës 271, tel. +355 (0) 4 2222 985, www. italoptik.al. Open 08:00-20:00; closed Sun.

OPTIKA 1 (OPTIKA ONE) QF-5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Toptani Center, tel. +355 69 406 6387, www.optikaone.com/al.

OPTIKA BRUNA (OTTICA BRUNA) QG-4, Blv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 4 224 63 61. Open 09:00-13:00/16:00-20:00; closed Sun.

HOSPITALS & CLINICS

AMERICAN HOSPITAL (SPITALI AMERIKAN) A modern hospital along the Durrës highway, with international staff.QE-6, Rr. Beqir Luga, tel. +355 (0) 42 35 75 35, www.al.spitaliamerikan.com/en.

HYGEIA HOSPITAL (SPITALI HYGEIA) Albania’s first large private hospital.QTirana-Durrës highway, tel. +355 4 239 00 00, www.hygeia.al.

KLINIKA IRMA A large private multi-speciality clinic near the Grand Park. Doctors speak English, French and Italian.QI-4, Rr. Dora D’Istria, tel. +355 4 224 30 00. Open 09:00-18:00; Fri 09:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-12:00; closed Sun.