Nightlife

Tirana street art

Despite the closure of clubs and many bars due to the pandemic, Tirana’s nightlife is back on track this summer, offering an awful lot of variety within easy walking distance. For many, the fun still starts with the lively and traditional xhiro (mass evening stroll), and ends more often than not somewhere in the bustling Blloku area in the early hours of the morning. Tirana has seen a gradual adoption of hipster culture in recent years, and their taste for quality and craft beers is a welcome addition to a scene that for long has been dominated by the botoxed-up Fashion TV crowd with their sweet pink drinks. Note that Albanians still prefer sipping coffee to serious drinking, with foreigners often being the only ones knocking back the hard stuff.

BARS

CHARL’S BISTRO An eclectic and fashionable 30-something crowd populates this fantastic lounge bar specialising in Western hits from the ‘60s to the ‘80s. The somewhat oddly spelt venue has admirably been going for almost two decades, hosting live music acts as well as party events on weekend evenings, and Latin dancing on Wednesdays. The cocktail bar in the lush small garden spits out great drinks all week, plus there’s a good menu of food available to soak up the excess alcohol.QH-4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani 36, tel. +355 69 831 65 84, www.charlsbistro.al. Open 07:30-04:00AM; Sat 08:00-03:00. €€. NPGBE

CHEERS IRISH PUB Pandering to every popular culture stereotype imaginable, this perfectly adequate place to drink and be merry features an admirable stockade of German beer behind the bar, burgers and other pub food on the menu, and is more often than not overflowing with customers during the evening. The stage at the back regularly hosts DJs and live music - on our recent visit a Pink Floyd cover band trying to remember when they were young.QH-3, Rr. Pjetër

SYMBOL KEY

P Air-conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled E Live music G Non-smoking

B Outside seating

Bogdani 39/1, tel. +355 67 203 60 11. Open 07:00-02:00. APGBE

HEMINGWAY Operating along the lines of a Hemingway-Cuba theme but throwing in a lot of other cultural references along the way, find chairs and suitcases stuck to the walls and a crowd of drinkers frequenting this bar just northwest of the city centre. Friday evenings herald a weekly live music event which tends to attract big crowds. Hemingway also organises the amazing 1920s-themed Jazz train trip to Shkodra around April 30, with much dressing up and dancing.QE-3, Rr. Kont Urani 2, tel. +355 69 208 81 21, www.hemingway.al. Open 05:00-1:00; Fri 06:00-1:00; Sat 07:00-1:00; closed Sun. GBE

ILLYRIAN SALOON A favoured location for the rocker crowd in Tirana, you’ll often find live music at weekends featuring somewhat famous local acts, with no cover charge. Cheap drinks are the aim of the game here and there is a sense of camaraderie amongst patrons, as long as you fit the vibe. Set below street level, the saloon atmosphere is certainly evident from the wooden features, flowing whiskeys and of course the Wild Wild West-style doors, made for a dramatic entrance.QI-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69 211 6800. Open 16:00-2:00. APBE

STRANGER DANGER

As friendly as Albanians are, it’s best not to approach people whilst in bars or restaurants. Mingling in public with strangers is generally frowned upon and simply talking to people you don’t know may find you in hot water - and even asked to leave!

IRONBRUSH The hottest place in town for the alternative crowd, this diverse and punky pub has walls adorned with musical instruments, games to play, and even a pool table. The owner is one of the most famous tattoo artists in town and local motorcycle enthusiasts regularly frequent. Cheap drinks are the name of the game and the outdoor courtyard is particularly popping in the summertime. The coffee isn’t too bad, either.QRr. Komuna e Parisit, Vila 2, tel. +355 67 543 10 02. Open 09:00-23:30; Sun 16:00-23:30. €. NP

KINO This vintage-cinema-themed reinvention of one of the wildest venues in the centre of town has proven that a facelift doesn’t change the heart. This is still one of the city’s biggest nightlife hotspots and parties pump ‘til the early hours, with densely packed weekends putting you in an unparalleled realm of closeness to others. Also one of the best places in town to catch a rare glimpse of someone daring to groove to the music.QRr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 69 210 57 85. Open 09:00-2:00AM. €€. APXE

MYWAY The unofficial headquarters of Tirana’s alternative crowd, MyWay in Blloku is one of the best places in town to mingle with the locals - it may be the only bar in town where it’s actually socially acceptable to talk to strangers. Drinks are cheap, the waiters are friendly and this pet-accommodating venue even has its own resident cat. Don’t let the unassuming decor or dart boards fool you - MyWay can certainly lead you to wild nights.QRr. Pjetër Bogdani 11, tel. +355 69 227 05 54. Open 08:0012:00. NPBE

NOOR A cosy bar with a small terrace next to the historical Toptani Serai, serving Spritz cocktails and fine Italian food, including pasta, panini and risotto. There are occasional music-themed nights but it’s Wednesday that deserves a mention here for the aperitif night from 19:00-21:00, with unlimited finger food - within reason, dear readers - for just 100 lek.QF-5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, tel. +355 69 700 7008, www.noor.com.al. Open 07:0023:00. €€. P

NOUVELLE VAGUE This popular establishment isn’t marked by a sign, but is unmissable nevertheless due to the wild and happy colour scheme used for the furniture, walls and air ducts. Hammocks dangle for the ceiling, and the bearded gentlemen behind the bar mix a great selection of shakes cocktails to a backdrop of interesting music. They also like inviting bartenders from neighbouring countries to mix it up a bit.QH-3, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 69 933 3622. Open 08:30-02:00. APBE

PEPPER LOUNGE What was once one of the most bopping nightclubs in Blloku has reinvented itself as an upscale lounge and bistro bar aimed at a more sophisticated and well-dressed crowd. Despite being a vast villa venue, it’s often still packed. Rather curiously, their specialties are pizza and sushi, with a side of cocktails. Still a place to party until the early hours, put on your nicest clothes and enjoy the DJs and other special events at weekends.QRr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 69 849 70 81. Open 09:00-4:00AM. PXB

PERLA TATTOO & BAR With an intoxicating mix of great music and craft beers, Perla is a centre for Tirana’s alternative scene. This rock bar features excellent live music nights, with jazz and blues played on Thursdays and occasional open mic nights for punters to show their talents. Should you be in the mood for a tattoo, they can arrange this for you as well.QG-3, Rr. Reshit Çollaku 6, tel. +355 69 694 24 31. Open 11:0023:00; Sat, Sun 24hrs. €. NPGBE

RADIO BAR Tirana’s alternative youth can often be found hanging out at Radio Bar, where old radio station logos, black and white photographs of bygone film stars, tartan ducts and antique radio sets decorate the front room. Towards the back, the semi-open terrace looks less enticing but is still generally packed during the weekend evenings when DJs and live music can be expected. Find Radio slightly hidden away in the apartment building set back from the street. QH-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 29/1, www.radiobar.al. Open 10:00-12:00. NPGBE

TIKI BAR Offering something of a castaway vibe, this two-floored beach hut of a bar complete with wooden face masks and lampshades made from seashells is about as close as it gets to a Caribbean cocktail bar in contemporary Tirana. Besides beer there’s a range of colourful mixed drinks and freshly squeezed fruit juice, and regular live music gigs. QI-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 68 518 0005. Open 07:00-24-00. €€. NPGBE

XHEKO ROOFTOP The highlight of the Xheko Imperial Hotel, this elegant 14th-floor rooftop bar with its little pools and fountains offers grand views, a nice breeze on hot summer days, Saturday brunches, and sushi in the evening. DJs take care of the music several nights a week - reservations are recommended at weekends.QRr. Ibrahim Rugova 56, tel. +355 696 16 11 11, www.xheko-imperial.com. Open 07:0024:00. €€€. APTUBE

BLURRED LINES

Is it a bar? Is it a restaurant? No, it’s a super venue! Things can be a little unclear in Tirana’s drinking and dining establishments… the sleepy café you enjoyed on a Monday morning just might also be the hottest nightclub in town on a Thursday night.

BEER BARS

BIRRARI KE TORI Down a few steps from street level, this lovely beer bar has everything you need: cold local beer, freshly grilled meat dishes, a small terrace and a friendly owner. Perfect for anything from a quick lunch or dinner to a night of revelry.QG/H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 69 238 76 07. Open 10:00-24:00. €. NPB

BRÄUHAUS A loud and cheerful German-themed brewery restaurant and pub, with unfiltered and un-pasteurised blonde, red and wheat beers made on the premises. In the best Brauhaus tradition there’s also plenty of Bavarian-style meat-heavy dishes on the menu, plus occasional live music and screenings of sporting events. A children’s play area is also provided for guzzlers with little ones in tow.QG-4, Rr. Reshit Çollaku 38, tel. +355 68 376 96 42. Open 12:00-01:00. €€. NPGTE

HOPS BAR A hopping bar offering more than 100 types of beer from bottles or on tap, together with an excellent range of pub food. Besides and insane range of Belgian brews, Albanian microbrews worth sampling here include the Dyst IPA from Tirana (which is recommended with a porcobello pulled pork burger) and the quirky Birra e Gjyshit “Grandpa’s beer” from Pogradec. Keep an eye on their social media for regular live music nights. QH-5/6, Rr. Elbasanit 85, tel. +355 69 207 7772, www.hops-bar-tirana.business.site. Open 07:0024:00. €€. APBE

CASINOS

To get in to Tirana’s casinos you’ll need to be over 18 and to have some form of ID; smart casual dress is fine.

GRAND CASINO Promising the ‘Next Level’ of gambling entertainment, the Grand offers tables for blackjack, poker, baccarat and roulette and some 300 machines - accompanied by fine dining and good cocktails.QF-5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Maritim Plaza, tel. +355 4 244 4440, www. grandcasinotirana.com. Open 24hrs. €€€. APXEROYAL EAGLE CASINO Table games and slot machines inside the MAK hotel.QJ-5, Sheshi Italia 2, MAK Hotel, tel. +355 4 451 88 88. Open 24hrs. €€€. APXUB

COCKTAIL BARS

GINTONERIA Walk up the exterior staircase to find the excellent Gintoneria cocktail bar with its three-seater terrace overlooking the street. With dozens of gin varieties stacked behind the bar, and knowledgeable barmen who know their stuff, this is a great place to simply ask for recommendations and go with the gin flow. Beer is available as well, if you really must.QH-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha 7, tel. +355 68 400 00 36, www.ginto.al. Open 08:00-1:00. APB

JULIETTE COCKTAIL BAR Whilst it hasn’t been around for long, nowhere is as wellknown for live music as Juliette which has managed to quickly cement its position as the premier venue. All tastes and genres are covered, with events including rock shows, Latin nights and karaoke, but as they don’t heavily focus on advertising, be prepared to just wander in and see what’s going on. Weekends can get wild and see the party keep popping until the early morning hours.QRr. Pjetër Bogdani 37, tel. +355 69 578 5200. Open 11:0002:00AM. €€. NPGE

MUGO Part of the Mulliri empire, this very elegant lounge bar serves everything from brunch with coffee in the morning, to burgers, sushi or exotic international dishes with classy cocktails later at night. There’s a DJ at hand on Friday and Saturday nights too.QH-4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 69 706 63 70. Open 06:30-12:00. €€€. APXB

WHISKEY Often frequented by the glitzy and the glamorous, it can be difficult to find a space here, and while reservations can be made, the staff aren’t known for their English skills. This is one of the best places in Tirana to mingle with the locals, with the front terrace hosting those who wish to be seen and the back area becoming more and more like a nightclub as the evening progresses. Despite its name, the cocktails are the feature focus here.QRr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 226 94 47. Open 07:00-1:00. €€. PXBE

GAMES BARS

REELS GAMING CLUB A spacious Blloku lounge bar with a large terrace full of elegant young people, a good selection of food, live music on Wednesdays and a long bar serving cocktails non-stop. Reels’ speciality however is games, with stacks of board games, tables, drinking games and arcade machines free to use for guests; Thursday is games night, when you can compete with others.QH-4, Rr. Brigada e VIII, Vila 1, tel. +355 69 600 00 94. Open 07:00-23:00. APE

THE ÇÁ ÇA Numero uno when it comes to games bars. Located in Kamëz on the northern periphery of Tirana, the ÇÁ ÇA is a rooftop venue offering some of the best views in town, day and night. Once inside, sit down, relax, eat, drink and play a game of Monopoly - Albania style - or any other myriad of board and card games on offer. A jovial place for jovial people! The UBT University bus (white line 7) stops directly in front of the venue.QBlv. Blu, Perballe UBT, tel. +355 69 666 62 22, www.mydigitalinovation.com/ menu/the-a-a. Open 07:00-23:00. €€. NP

IRISH PUBS

MEDUZA IRISH PUB An insanely popular Irish pub with Guinness on tap and dozens of other bottles beer options, a wide range of pub food and an cosy interior with the usual collection of beer ads. The punters and staff are all extremely friendly, the terrace has the propensity to keep you glued to your seat until well after bedtime and, perhaps best of all, they screen all the major international soccer matches.QH-5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti, tel. +355 69 335 1654, www. meduzairishpub.com. Open 06:30-12:00; Fri 07:00-2:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-4:00. €€. APGB

NEW IRISH PUB Hidden behind the Mangiafuoco steak restaurant, the New Irish Pub is a fun, large bar decked out exactly as you would expect, offering Irish beers, good music and pub food. There’s regular live music and lively events like Thursdays’ karaoke night.QH-4, Rr. Pjeter Pogdani 36/1, tel. +355 69 223 33 24. Open 17:00-2:00AM. APBE

STRIP CLUBS

Prostitution is illegal in Albania - but strip clubs aren’t.

MARIA BONITA A dance and strip club at the top end of Bulevardi Zogu I, with fair prices and promising dancers from all over the Balkans, private shows in a separate room and special party nights. Admission free.QF-5, Bulevardi Zogu I 53, tel. +355 67 411 10 88, www.mariabonita.al. Open 22:00-06:00. APX

WINE BARS

Sophisticated interiors, quiet music and a good selection of wines to sample.

BONAPARTE Up on the first floor of the building and overlooked by a portrait of Napoleon, visitors are free to let themselves loose on a dizzying array of quality French wines, cognac, over 30 types of whiskey and the exclusive Armagnac brandy. Snacks are served, as are Cuban cigars that may be smoked on the premises.QG/H-4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 204 90 49. Open 07:00-02:00AM. APG

VENA Wine lovers rejoice! Whilst many wine bars have come and gone over the past years, the intimate Vena bar has proved that it’s got what it takes to stay. The owner is passionate in his love of grapes and the staff are extremely knowledgeable regarding their selection of varietals. Find your new favourite sip whilst enjoying a plate of delicious cold-cut meats and cheeses or, if feeling more famished, dig into their signature pastas and risottos.QRr. Komuna e Parisit 3/1, tel. +355 67 490 4376. Open 08:00-12:00. €€€. APBW