Cafés

Coffee in a wedding cake

Tirana’s café scene is bigger and better than it ever was before. Just remember to be very precise to specify you want coffee in your cappuccino.

BOOK CAFÉS

EPËR7SHME This combined second-hand book and café is an excellent find. Best bring your own book and walk past the curious selection of Albanian-langauge titles to find a gorgeous sheltered garden around the back which is the best place to sit and soak up the atmosphere and caffeine. They stopped serving hot meals unfortunately - drinks only for the moment.QG-5, Rr. Jul Variboba 1, tel. +355 69 687 3284. Open 07:00-23:00. €. APB

MUSIC BOOKS EATERY Set in a small cul-de-sac and boasting a huge outdoor terrace area, during the day Music Books Eatery is the perfect place to wander in and find a quiet spot to read, study or work. At night, things get a bit rowdier with a range of events including art exhibitions, jazz concerts and even sip-and-paint nights. A particular favourite with the expat crowd, every so often you’ll catch a meet-up here on a Friday night. QRr. Ilo Mitkë Qafzezi 2, tel. +355 69 373 70 08, www.musicbookseatery.com. Open 08:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. €€. PB

PRICE GUIDE

For cafes that serve food, we’re indicated the average price of a main course dish, without drinks.

€ Under 500 lek €€€ Over 1,000 lek

CLASSIC CAFÉS

ARDI BAKERY Anyone walking around the Komuna e Parisit neighbourhood would be hard pressed not to notice the name ‘Ardi’ in numerous locations; Ardi Bakery, Ardi Cafe, Ardi Factory. What started as a simple bread shop is now a cult favourite in the area. The first in Tirana to modernise the simple sandwich, here you can break away from typical fillings and enjoy a honey mustard chicken or tuna salad baguette, or simply enjoy a perfectly roasted coffee.QJ-2, Rr. Tish Dahia 10. Open 08:00-22:00.

BARDHË E ZI Something of a Tirana institution, the inappropriately named Bardhë e Zi (Black and White) is anything but lacking in colour. Located along one of the busiest streets in the blloku, the mostly 20-something crowd that choose to spend time here are a friendly bunch indeed. Serving great coffee alongside a range of other drinks and snacks, the modern interior is a good place to escape the madness outside, or, if you prefer to imbibe your caffeine in a less peaceful environment, the terrace is a fine location to indulge in a little urban anthropology.QH-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 222 5547. Open 24hrs. €€. APB

CAFÉ BOTANICA Lush green foliage fills the interior and terrace of this buzzing bistro café below the arches of the Palace of Culture. Arrive early for a relaxed breakfast or lunch as you peoplewatch the pedestrians on the main square, drop by later in the day for a wide range of dinner options, cocktails and perhaps a DJ-driven party.QSheshi Skënderbej, tel. +355 69 463 80 00. Open 07:00-24:00. €. APXBE

COFFEE-LAB The only cafe in Tirana to roast their own coffee - and these coffee-lovers do it well and are happy to explain the process to visitors. The large space with a wall of windows is infused with the smell of roasting, and offers cakes and pastries besides the coffee and hot drinks.QI-4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe, tel. +44 75771 96870. Open 07:30-23:00. NPT

KEVIN Straddling that old Tirana chestnut between café and bar, Kevin’s wood-panelled interior is a bit too much for some, although it’s the best place in the area around the Ottoman-era Tanners’ Bridge and has a great outdoor terrace. If you drop by during the evening be prepared for the occasional event, which could be anything from a poetry reading to a relaxed performance of classical music.QF-5/6, Rr. George W. Bush, tel. +355 68 202 2505, www.kevin-bar. business.site. Open 07:00-23:00. PXB

KITCHEN BAR With impeccable views of the lake, you can easily waste a few hours in the sunshine here, people and duck watching whilst you sip on your coffee, beer or wine and pound

down a pizza. Bike racks and a play area make this a great option for families, and it’s still peaceful enough to function as a quiet spot to work online. Inside find a makeshift Tirana museum, with old photos of the city and a shrine dedicated to KF Tirona, the local klubi i futbollit.QUnaze e Re, Liqeni Artificial, tel. +355 67 459 1346, www.kitchenbar.al. Open 08:00-1:00AM. €. NPB

KOMETA CAFÉ & MORE Whether you’re in the mood for a coffee, cocktail, or can’t satisfy your hunger, Kometa’s got you covered. It’s no wonder this place has established itself as the neighbourhood ‘go-to’ spot for the Komuna e Parisit district. Staff appreciate their customers here with attentive service and the kind of energy many tourists would expect. The plants on the walls and ceiling give you a greater sense of the latter in the term ‘concrete jungle’. QRr. Skender Luarasi 2, tel. +355 69 881 71 59, www. kometa-cafeandmore.business.site. Open 07:0023:00. €. PBE

KOMITETI KAFE MUZEUM Popular with wide-eyed tourists, Komiteti combines a café with a museum of bits and bobs from decades past - and manages to pull it off very nicely indeed. Set in the shadow of the Galeria ETC mall, the distinction between a place for a quick cup of coffee and an evening of heavy drinking is so blurred that it’s impossible to define what it is - beyond the fact that if you’re in town you really should drop by.QG-5, Rr.Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 67 691 35 52. Open 7:00-24:00. €€. PB

LA PORTEÑA A haven of excellent coffee, snacks and great service, La Porteña (a term referring to someone from Buenos Aires) is run by an Albanian-Argentinian couple who left the cruise industry to start their dream café. Hang out on the terrace or retreat to the mezzanine floor for some quiet time with your drink and a slice of banana bread or coconut tart with dulce de leche. Peckish customers should try the hearty Argentinian empanadas with corn and cheese or beef. Find it hidden in the side street.QH-5, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji, tel. +355 67 740 06 69. Open 07:00-21:30; Sat 08:00-21:00; Sun 08:0015:00. €. NPUB

LAVEEN Attracting much of the Blloku’s professional crowd, you’ll find this unassuming cafe and restaurant busy morning, noon and night. Enjoy some of the best-brewed coffee in town whilst observing the locals busy with meetings and business deals - brush shoulders with top entrepreneurs, journalists and maybe even a politician or two. The menu features classic cafe favourites and a wide range of cocktails, from classics to specialities. At night, bring your friends and enjoy cocktail pitchers at a great price.QRr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 69 647 2713. Open 07:00-23:45. €€.

SPEAK SHQIP: CAFÉ TALK

May I have a... - A mund të kem një... espresso - kafe ekspres espresso with milk - makiato turkish coffee - kafe turke cappuccino - kapucino me kafe filter coffee - Americano tea - caj sugar - sheker spoon - luge cigarettes - cigare matches - shkrepse ashtray - tavell

QUO VADIS Great location, dangerous espresso. Quo Vadis has staying power, a quality not to be underestimated in a world where cafés come and go in the blink of an eye. Frequented by a mostly young crowd who don’t seem at all bothered about such things as needing a job.QH-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 25, tel. +355 4 226 65 90. Open 07:30-00:30. APB

STEPHEN CENTER CAFÉ Opened in 1994 by evangelical missionaries who certainly know how to run a good café, this is one of Tirana’s best, a cosmopolitan meeting place for locals and foreigners alike, seving a wide variety of international cuisine. There’s a pleasant terrace to gorge on bottomless coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice and eggs benedict for breakfast while you watch the police endlessly remove badly parked cars from the traffic circle.QE-5/6, Rr. Hoxha Tahsim 1, tel. +355 4 223 47 48, www.stephencenter.com. Open 07:30-23:00; closed Sun. €. APGTB

TEA ROOM Like a calm little corner of England in Albania, the Tea Room is a cosy café decorated with flowery patterns and with windows overlooking the Lana river. You can try various tea leaf and herbal infusions - try the delicious Albanian ironwort mountain tea, caj mali - as well as good local wines and sweet cakes.QG-3, Blv. Gjergj Fishta, tel. +355 68 404 70 27. Open 07:00-22:30. €. GB

URBAN ROOTS With vast amounts of space indoors and out, it’s no wonder that Urban Roots is a well-known event space, hosting trivia nights and expat meetups amongst other things. During the day it’s more of a hotspot for the local highschool students and young professionals - they also offer private meeting rooms for those requiring office space. At night attracts a younger expat crowd. Munch on a sandwich or pizza to satisfy your urban hunger.QI/J-4, Rr. Lidhja e Prizrenit 3, tel. +355 69 461 08 18. Open 07:3023:30. PBE

COFFEE, BUT WITH COFFEE

Famous for its café culture, Tirana is one of the best cities in Europe for roasted bean lovers. Locals enjoy sitting for three hours after placing only one initial order - usually a kafe (shot of espresso) or makiato (espresso with a dash of milk). Those looking for filtered coffee will find themselves out of luck, but can order an ‘Americano’ for the closest local substitute. If you’re a cappuccino lover, beware! You must specify that you want it with coffee - kapucino me kafe - otherwise expect to receive a rather odd-tasting cinnamonflavoured, powder-based drink (kapucino me bustine) usually consumed by children.

COFFEE SHOPS

LE BON Sprinkled around several locations in town, the Le Bon bakery and pastry shops bring modern European café style to Tirana. Inside, there’s a real bustling, cosmopolitan vibe, and the sandwiches and pastries are some of the tastiest in town. Le Bon also manufactures stunning cakes, from cartoon-themed creations for the kids to Jack Daniels-laced confectionary for the adults - all available from their online shop as well. The café on Rruga Boçari by the lake is the perfect place to stock up your picnic basket. QRr. Dritan Hoxha, tel. +355 672 00 06 70, www.lebon. al. Open 06:30-22:30. €. APGTB

MON CHÉRI Speciality coffees, hot cocoa, smoothies, cakes snacks and much more, in an chain of coffee shops dotted all over the city. The busy outlet on Sheshi Wilson square has a takeaway window supplying coffee around the clock for the truly desperate.QI-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 68 203 09 55, www.moncheri.al. Open 07:00-22:30. €.

MULLIRI I VJETËR Impossible to miss, Mulliri cafes can be found all over Tirana, with 18 shops now offering a spot to relax with a book, get some work done, or meet friends while enjoying a speciality coffee, cookie or light meal. At this strategic Blloku street corner, Mulliri Gourmet is the flagship shop, with the largest selection of food and drinks. Their pleasant large terrace is an important fixture on the Blloku seeand-be-seen circuit.QH-4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 706 63 70, www.mullirivjeter.al. Open 09:00-23:00. €€. APB

SOPHIE CAFFE Another popular chain of coffee shops with cosy corners to enjoy a drink, sandwich, pasta dish, cookie or cake. In summer, head to their their Bohemian Sophie Palasë cafe in Palase, on the southern coast.QH-5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 69 701 47 88, www.sophiecaffe.com. Open 07:00-23:00. €. APB

HEALTHY FOOD CAFÉS

FIT FOOD Overlooking busy Sheshi Wilson square, this tiny shop has various freshly pressed juice combinations on offer, as well as healthy snack or meal options.QI-3, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 21, tel. +355 68 559 61 61. Open 07:00-21:00; closed Sun. €€. AP

HAPPY BELLY A few steps down from the street, the tiny Happy Belly is an easily missed yet unmissable café serving fresh vegetarian and vegan juices, smoothies and Saturday brunches - all gorgeously presented by the friendly hostess from behind a market stand full of fruit and veg. QH-4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 54 50 082. Open 08:30-20:30. €€.

MIA ORGANIC CAFÉ Hidden at the rear of a charming organic food supermarket - great for local, healthy souvenirs - the Organic Café offers a buffet-style lunch with various vegetarian and other choices to point at, naturally made with organic ingredients. There’s good fruit juice, smoothies and coffee too.QH-3, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 69 707 59 54, www.mia.al. Open 08:00-21:00. €. APG

Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek

LUNCH

NYT BAGELS This small New York-style deli specialises in freshly-made bagels that are as good as you’re going to get in this part of the world. They come with a choice of bread, toppings and fillings such as cream cheese and salmon, customised as you wish and assembled before you eyes. There’s coffee and a few other snacks as well, plus a tiny little outside seating area. Find it in the side street halfway up Rr. Gërmenji.QH-5/6, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji, tel. +355 69 540 75 83. Open 07:30-19:00. €. PB

THE PLACE A stylish little cafe hidden down the side of the Kika 2 complex, closing early but offering a truly excellent and nicely presented 800 lek lunch, which includes soup, salad and main course. Beyond lunch, there’s good coffee, cakes and other nibbles for inside or on the small terrace.QJ-2, Rr. Tish Dahia 10, Kompleksi Kika 2, tel. +355 68 204 00 82. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 08:00-16:00; closed Sun. €€. NPB

EVENT CAFÉ

DESTIL CREATIVE HUB A completely unique concept in Tirana, for creative types there is no other place like Destil (named after the 1920s Dutch art movement, De Stijl). Providing exhibition space for up-and-coming artists, musicians, photographers and even historians wanting to present their topic in an interesting way, the events held here are widely varied. One of the few true LGBTQ+ venues in town, it is also the only cafe with a dedicated co-working space. The coffee and cocktails taste good too!QBlv. Zogu I, tel. +355 69 756 5237, www.destil. al. Open 07:00-23:00. €. PB

SWEET CAFÉS

Cake shops, pâtisseries and other cafés that cater to your sweet tooth.

BIG SCOOP Ice cream from Kosovo? Why not - this chain of brightly lit cafés was founded in Pristina by some experienced returnees from London, and is expanding across the Balkans with its delicious ice cream, waffles, crepes, brownies, pancakes and more - all laden with sweet toppings. Thankfully, there are a few savoury options too. Conveniently set near the lake, but also scooping at the Delijorgji complex along Bulevardi Gjergj Fishta.QK-4, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +383 49 805 530, www.bigscoop.menu. Open 07:0023:00. €€. PB

CIOCCOLATITALIANI Modern, bright and always busy, Cioccolatitaliani’s menu stretches well beyond crêpes, with a veritable smorgasbord of tooth-destroying treats on offer, among them waffles and many concoctions with chocolate.QH/1-4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 4 431 9591, www. cioccolatitaliani.it. Open 07:00-24:00. €€. AP

D’ANGELO Another Blloku favourite, this place offers the usual roll call of inventive coffee concoctions plus a range of frozen yoghurts, bubble tea, smoothies and freshly squeezed fruit juices which all taste great during the summer meltdown period. To compliment the caffeine, D’Angelo also dabbles in desserts, among them an irresistible and not expensive chocolate fondue for sharing with friends. Also in four other Tirana locations.QRr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 69 97 79 669, www. dangelo.al. Open 08:00-24:00. €. APB

DUDONUTS Whilst Albania has petulla, which are more savoury, there’s only one place in town that offers real donuts as dessert. Some offerings are mouth-watering, such as the Oreo Moment or Dulce de Leche - others such as peach and pomegranate sound wonderful, but we think seeds atop a donut are simply not practical. Originating from the Blloku, DuDonuts has also opened in the TEG mall and Sarande, and it seems reasonable to assume this will be Albania’s Krispy Kreme in no time.QRr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69 700 88 22. Open 07:00-21:00. €. P

EGE BAKLLAVA Albanians certainly are not known for their sweet tooth, so whilst there are usually three or four Italian desserts on restaurant menus, the selection can get boring after a while. Bakllava is a dessert of cultural significance across the Balkans and the best place to try this sweet-butsavoury sugary treat is at Ege. A large variety of different flavours is available, as well as other pastry treats, but we think the pistacchio simply is the best.QRr. Kavajes, tel. +355 69 696 97 36, www.egebakllava.al. Open 09:0021:00. €€€. PG

PÂTISSERIE FRANÇAISE Opened way back in 1999 by Marie-Thérèse Marchal and an exceedingly popular place, there are many reasons to visit this tiny corner of France, perhaps the most important being the authenticity of the baked goods on sale - there’s nothing to beat the baguettes on offer here. Choose to take everything away in a bag to much on later or relax inside with a decent cup of coffee and something sweet and sticky.QG-4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 1, tel. +355 68 53 57 678, www.patisseriefrancaise.al. Open 09:00-22:00. €€. AP

BALKAN BOOKS: FREE

A truly enchanting memoir of a young girl witnessing the last gasp of Communism in Albania, and the freshly freed country’s first wobbly steps into a capitalist future. Lea Ypi was raised in a family with ‘a biography’ or political background, and they needed to speak in code to prevent her inadvertently raising suspicion outside the home. Ypi descibers her careless pioneer years and her disillusionment with the ideology that promised so much to Albania’s children, yet disappeared so fast, only to be replaced with a chaotic and sometimes dangerous new world. You’ll never look at a Coke can the same way after reading this fascinating book. Free: Coming of Age at the End of History, by Lea Ypi, 2021, Penguin www.penguin.co.uk. Available at Adrion International Books in Tirana.