Tallinn In Your Pocket Summer 2020 by In Your Pocket

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Tallinn Summer 2020

inyourpocket.com NÂ°131 Complimentary copy

The most comprehensive city guide to Tallinn since 1997

Bryan Adams, Sir Mick Jagger, New York, 2008

Bryan Adams Exposed

6.3.2020 -13.9.2020 For all current and upcoming exhibitions visit www.fotografiska.com/tallinn

Contents Arrival & Transport

Navigating Tallinn

History

Discover the past

Culture & Events 8 Major events, cinemas, art galleries and more

Sightseeing

Essential Old Town The medieval centre in a nutshell

Sightseeing tours By bus, by bike or by tram

Museums Covering city history, from tunnels to airplanes

Kadriorg & Pirita Tallinn’s most beautiful park and seaside await

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artistic district

The hip and happening neighbourhood

Noblessner - the city’s new hotspot 31 Art, culture and good food

Leisure

Take action or take a breather

Restaurants

From sushi to sült

Cafés

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Summer is here! The Old Town is buzzing with activity, and life is getting back to normal after recovering from the effects of Covid-19. Events and festivals are being held safely, the terraces are open and weather permitting, you never need to venture too far to find a nice beach either (see the listings on page 33). While the Old Town is fascinating, we urge you to venture out to Kalamaja (page 28) where you’ll find some funky bars, cool cafés and a tasty street food as well as to Noblessner - the city’s seaside hotspot (page 31). If it’s nature and parks you’re after, head to the lush, green neighbourhood of Kadriorg, and Tallinn’s ultimate beach destination Pirita (pages 24 - 29). As always, we have packed our guide with everything you need to know about Tallinn and have reviewed all the latest bars, restaurants, and sights. So get out there and start exploring!

cover story Featured on the cover is Pikk Hermann tower in Toompea. At the top of the tower, 95 metres above sea level, flies the flag that symbolises the ruling power in Estonia. Find out more from Toompea Castle listing on page 13.

The hottest places in the caffeine scene

Nightlife

Printed by Reusner, Tallinn ISSN 1406-2690 © OÜ Linnajuht

Publisher Linnajuht OÜ Küllike Johannson-Singer tallinn@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

Find your perfect party

Hotels A bed for every budget

Shopping & Directory

From books to shoe repair

Living in Tallinn

Tips on getting you started

Maps & Index Old Town map City centre map

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

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E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Editors Nathanael Singer, Kristina Lupp Photography Küllike Johannson-Singer and Nat A. Singer unless otherwise stated Cover © visitestonia.com, EAS Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Linnajuht OÜ. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Summer 2020

Arrival & Transport

As European capitals go, Tallinn is a remarkably easy-access city. The passenger port and train station are both within shouting distance of the Old Town/centre, while the airport and bus station are a quick, cheap 10 - 15 minute taxi ride away and also easily reachable by tram.

Arriving in Tallinn By bus Buses arrive at the bus station (L-8 on the map), located just off the main highway from Tartu. Once at the station, you’ll find left luggage in the basement. ATM machines are located inside next to the main entrance. Getting to town The city centre is just 1km away, down Juhkentali tänav from behind the station. Buses N°17 and 23 leave directly from the coach area near platform 1, heading to Vabaduse väljak (4th stop) in the centre while trams N°2 and 4 run from nearby Tartu maantee to Viru väljak (4th stop), also in the centre. A taxi to Old Town should cost about €6. By car Crossing the border from Latvia is completely hassle-free now that the Baltics belong to Schengen. Getting over the border from Russia will take quite a bit longer. In both cases, be sure to bring your car’s registration papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international green card. You can also buy insurance right at the border station. Please note that the speed limit on highways is 90km/h, in the cities 50km/h, unless otherwise noted, and the headlights have to be always turned on. For fares and regulations on bringing a car by ship from Finland or Sweden, contact the ferry companies. By plane Tallinn’s airport (M-9 on the map) may be a super-modern affair, but it’s so small you’re never in danger of getting lost. Once past the luggage receiving area, you’ll find ATMs in departures area and currency exchange in arrivals area of the hall; and car rental offices can be found on the first floor, inside the airport’s public transport terminal. 4 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Getting to town A taxi ride to the centre roughly costs €10 and takes between 10 and 20 minutes. You can also take tram N°4 or bus N°2 just outside the airport to downtown. Tram leaves every 5-10 minutes from 05:30 until 00:45. Bus leaves approximately every 20 minutes from 06:10 until 23:30. By ship Most ferries arrive at the Passenger Port, terminals A and D (see area K/L-6 on the map). Left luggage and a helpful information booth can be found in the main hall of terminal A. Exchange offices are plentiful but not always economical. ATMs are just as easy to find. Terminal D, located just across the small neck of water, has similar services. Getting to town You can just head for the spires of Old Town on foot, but a taxi from the Passenger Port or the Linnahall should cover the short ride to town for €4 - 5. By train Arriving by train at Tallinn’s Balti Jaam (A-3/4 on the map) puts you just a couple hundred metres from the walls of Old Town. Since renovations the station itself is no longer a Soviet-era relic and now includes a small grocery store, a nice restaurant and even a day spa, in case you need to unwind after your journey. Left luggage is in the back of the main hall, just off the breezeway that leads to the platforms. The exchange booth (across from left luggage) offers decent rates on all Scandinavian, Baltic and Russian currencies. ATMs are just next to the front doors. Getting to town Just cross the street at the underpass and walk up Nunne tänav into Old Town, or take tram N°1 or 2 from behind the station five stops to the Hobujaama stop. Avoid the taxis that wait here. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Transport tourist information

basic data

Tourist Information Centre The city’s official tourist information point is the best equipped to answer any question. QB‑5, Nigu‑ liste 2, tel. +372 645 77 77, www. visittallinn.ee. Open 09:00-18:00.

Tallinn Population: 444,563 (as of 01.02.2020) Density: 2,795.99 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 53.2%, Russians 38.1%, Ukrainians 3.4%, others 5.3%

Public transport Tallinn’s public transportation system is a fairly straightforward network of buses, trolley-buses and trams, all of which use the same ticketing-system. Trams provide the simplest way to get around downtown areas. From the centre, most major bus routes leave from the terminal under the Viru Centre, or from Vabaduse väljak (Freedom Square). Routes and schedules are listed in English at https://tallinn.pilet.ee/buy where you can also find a handy route planner to help you navigate your way through Tallinn’s pubic transport system. All new CAF trams offer free wifi for passengers. Detailed route maps are also posted at many public transport stops and stations. We also recommend to consider buying Tallinn Card that provides free transportation among other perks. Please see Sightseeing section for more details. Tickets: The same tickets/cards are good on all three systems. The simplest version is the 1-hour ticket which can be bought from the driver for €2 or with pilet.ee app. If you are planning on travelling a lot via public transport, other types of tickets are good for specific periods of time and are sold in Tourist Information Centre (Niguliste 2), bus station, Balti jaam train station, airport, ferry terminals A & D, Selver and Prisma supermarket info desks, or R-Kiosk shops. One-hour Tallinn tickets (€1.50) may also be purchased onboard using Mastercard, Maestro, Visa and Visa Electron bank cards with contactless interfaces. Look for validators at the front of the vehicle with the contactless payment logo. Qwww.tallinn.pilet.ee/ buy. Y

Airport Lennart Meri - Tallinn Airport Voted third best airport in Europe, Tallinn’s airport is a modern affair, but still so small there’s never a worry about getting lost. Officials still recommend you arrive 2 hours before your flight though. A taxi ride from the centre roughly costs €10 and takes between 10 and 20 minutes. Alternatively, tram N°4 from the Viru stop will conveniently take you to the airport in just 20 minutes. You can also take bus N°2 from the A. Laikmaa stop on Laikmaa street, located between the Viru Shopping Centre and Tallink Hotel.QM‑9, Tartu mnt. 101, tel. +372 605 88 88 (24hr flight info), www.tallinn-airport.ee. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Estonia Population: 1,323,824 (as of 01.01.2019) Territory: 45,339km2 Density: 29.06 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 68.7%, Russians 24.8%, Ukrainians 1.7%, others 4.8% Islands: 1,521. The three largest are Saaremaa 2,673km2, Hiiumaa 1,023km2, and Muhu 206km2 Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in effect from the last Sunday of March until the last Sunday of October.

Buses If you’re travelling city-to-city in the Baltics or around Estonia and you don’t have your own car, the bus is definitely the way to go. Connections are frequent and cheap, allowing you to cross the country for the same money you might spend on a taxi in Tallinn. Tickets can be bought online at www.tpilet.ee/en or from the bus station. International routes are operated by Lux Express (www.luxexpress.eu) and Ecolines (ecolines.net). Bus Station Tallinn’s small bus station has been recently renovated to suit the modernity of its passengers. Tickets are available inside the station or from the driver (let ticket-holders get on the bus first). Ticket prices depend on the bus company and route. On international routes it is advisable to reserve or buy your ticket in advance. On internal routes this is generally not necessary, however there are exceptions: On Fridays and Sundays buses to popular weekend destinations like Pärnu or Tartu tend to fill up quickly, so buying your ticket earlier in the day will guarantee a spot. Get to the station by taking city trams N°2 and 4 from the centre, or bus N°17 or 23 next to the Solaris Centre, to the Bussijaam stop.QL‑8, Lastekodu 46, tel. +372 680 09 00, www.bussijaam.ee. Open 05:00-01:00.

Ferries The vast majority of visitors travelling onward from Tallinn go by ship, and it’s no wonder - the city has excellent, affordable ferry connections to Helsinki, Stockholm and Saint Petersburg. On the Tallinn-Helsinki route, you have the large car ferries, which make the crossing in about two hours. Ferries are operated by Tallink (www.tallink.ee), who have large and fast car ferries and also operates the Tallinn-Stockholm line; Viking Line (www.vikingline.ee) Summer 2020

Arriving & Transport and Eckerö Line (www.eckeroline.ee). St.Peterline (www. st.peterline.ee) runs a weekly Tallinn-St.Petersburg-Helsinki route. Ferries leave from various terminals of the city’s two passenger harbours, clustered just outside Old Town (see area K/L-6 on the map). Passenger Port Nearly all ferry companies use the Tallinn Old City Harbour’s Passenger Port, which is divided into passenger terminals A and D.QE‑2, Sadama 25, tel. +372 631 85 50, www.portoftallinn. com. Terminal A open 04:30 - 00:30, Sun 06:00 - 22:45, Ter‑ minal D open 06:00 - 01:00, Tue 06:00 - 02:00.

Rotermann parking house Entrance from Ahtri street. €2.40/hr.QE‑4, Rotermanni 5, tel. +372 661 02 23 , www.europark.ee. Open 24hrs. Vabaduse väljak parking house €3.60/hour.QB‑6, Vabaduse väljak 9, tel. +372 651 15 30, www.parkimine.ee. Open 24hrs. Viru Centre parking house €2/hour.QE‑5, Viru väljak 4, tel. +372 651 15 30, www.parkimine.ee. Open 24hrs.

Trains

Rental bikes & scooters

Train travel in Estonia hasn’t gained the popularity it has elsewhere in Europe.The only real international connections are to point east (Moscow, St.Petersburg and beyond). Although plans are under way, forget about taking the train to Riga or Vilnius. It is, however, possible to get to Tartu and other Estonian cities by rail. Two separate companies cover Estonia’s train system: GoRail (www.gorail.ee) handles international, Elron (www.elron.ee) operates the local electric trains and the inter-city diesel trains.

If you’re looking for an alternative way to get around town, there are three companies that rent electric scooters - Tuul (€1 + €0.15 min), Bird (€1 + €0.15 min) and Bolt (€0.50 + €0.15 min) are all app-based and offer scooters for the same price. There is a fee for unlocking the scooter and after there is a cost per minute. Scooters can be found using the app. For more detailed information visit: https://www.tuul.xyz, https://www. bird.co or https://bolt.eu/scooters/. The biggest bike rental company is City Bike, located at Vene 33 (C-1 on the map) (www.citybike.ee) and you can also check out 16 Euro Bike Rental at Munga 4 (C-4 on the map) (www.16eur.ee).

Train Station (Balti jaam) Located just outside Old Town, Tallinn’s revamped train station boasts a trendy café, fountain, a day spa and a small grocery store, but unfortunately has little information posted in English. Luckily, the system is not too confusing and there are information and ticket booths (open 07:00 - 21:30), usually staffed by someone multi-lingual. For all domestic routes, you don’t even have to bother with this process since the same tickets can always be purchased right on board the trains themselves - as long as you know which track your train will leave from. Tickets for trains to Russia are sold at the ticket booths on the 2nd floor, which are open daily 08:30 19:00.QA‑4, Toompuiestee 37, www.baltijaam.ee.

Parking Tallinn is so centralised and pedestrian-friendly that there’s absolutely no reason to bring a car. If you happen to be here with your own set of wheels though, keep in mind that finding parking in downtown Tallinn, especially during working hours, can be a real nightmare. Public parking on streets in the town centre, as well as a few streets in Old Town, costs €1.5 - 6/hour, depending on the zone. Look for posted signs to tell you the price and the hours/days that paid parking is in effect. Buy per-hour parking passes from streetside vending machines or kiosks, and be sure to leave a parking clock (or barring that a written note) on your dashboard to mark the time that you first parked. If all this sounds too complicated, you can just use the following guarded central parking lots/ garages: Europark Toompea 3 €2.40/hour.QB‑6, Toompea 3, tel. +372 661 02 23 , www. europark.ee. 6 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Taxis Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and in several locations just outside Old Town, but grabbing a taxi on the street, especially those parked in Old Town, usually comes with a premium fare. Luckily the city government has implemented a law governing taxis and have put a cap on the starting fare (max. €5.50) and per kilometre rates (€1.10/km) - so even if you just hail a cab you shouldn’t be in for too much of a surprise. Ordering by phone is the best strategy though, as usually they have better rates. Another option is to use one of the numerous taxi ordering apps like Bolt or Yandex. The often controversial Uber ‘taxi’ service is also available in Tallinn. Here’s a list of taxi companies along with their daytime base fares and per-kilometre rates. Night time metres can run about 20% more. Peretakso Only large taxis available, best for small groups. €4.80 + €0.95/km.Qtel. +372 646 00 06/16111, www. peretakso.ee. Takso24 €2.95 + €0.60 - 0.75/km.Qtel. +372 640 89 27/1224, www.takso24.eu. Tallink Takso €3.95 + €0.99 - 1.10/km.Qtel. +372 640 89 21/1921, www.tallinktakso.ee. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

History 3,000BC Finno-Ugric tribes arrive from the east and settle along the north Baltic coast, mixing with Neolithic tribes. 1st Century Roman historian Tacitus writes of a local tribe called Aestii. 12th Century In 1154, Arab cartographer al-Idrisi marks Tallinn on his map as Koluvan, describing it as a seasonal stronghold - the first mention of the city in historic records. 13th Century In 1202 the Pope calls for a crusade against the pagans around the Baltic Sea. Bishop Albert founds the Order of the Knights of the Sword. This leads to four decades of bloody battles and shifting alliances among the Germans (based in Riga), Danes, Swedes, Russians, Lithuanians and local tribes. In 1219 King Voldemar II of Denmark takes the stronghold of the north Estonian Rävala people as a base for his forces (hence the name Tallinn: Taani = Danish, linn = city). German merchants settle the town, and in 1248 are granted the right to use Lübeck Law, effectively making Tallinn an autonomous entity. In the 1280s, Tallinn joins the powerful Hanseatic League of trading cities. 16th Century Estonians suffer another bout of shifting borders and imposed military service during the Livonian War (15581583). Ivan the Terrible advances claims on Estonia. Denmark and Poland enter the fray, but Sweden quickly gains control of the territory. Intermittent warfare with Poland lasts into the next century. 17th Century The Swedish period in Estonian history is marked by cultural advancement. Tartu University opens in 1632 and by the close of the century nearly every parish has a school. In 1645 Denmark cedes Saaremaa to Sweden, joining Estonia under a single force for the first time. 18th Century Sweden battles Russia, Denmark and Poland in the Northern War (1700-1721), losing Estonia to Russia in 1710. During the 200 years of tsarist rule that follow, Estonia’s peasants live in the same conditions of near-slavery as the serfs of Russia. In 1739 the Bible is published in Estonian. 19th Century So-called Estophiles study the local language and found consciousness-raising societies. Literacy spreads and Estonian-language periodicals appear. The second half of the century is marked by the National Awakening: the formation of a national consciousness among Estonians and an active period of scholarship and literary creation. The first song festival, held in Tartu in 1869, represents the first public demonstration of Estonian national identity. Tsar Alexander III stifles this when he comes to the throne in 1881, initiating a period of intense Russification. The first republic Estonia takes advantage of the chaos in Russia caused by WWI and the Bolshevik Revolution, declaring independence on February 24, 1918. But by the end of February, Germany takes the infant country by force. When Germany capitulates in November Red forces move in. The War for Independence lasts 13 months. In the Tartu Peace Treaty, signed February 2, 1920, Soviet Russia renounces claims to the territory “for facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

all time”. In 1921 the Republic of Estonia is accepted into the League of Nations. Reforms progress quickly and social welfare laws are on a par with those in Europe. A political crisis in the mid-1930s brings the young republic to the verge of authoritarianism. President Konstantin Päts bans political parties and restricts civil rights but maintains popular support. World War II On August 23, 1939, the USSR and Germany sign the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact, in which secret protocols carve Eastern Europe into spheres of influence. On June 16, 1940, the USSR accuses the Baltic states of aggression and demands the right to occupy them. ‘Elections’ take place July 14 - 15, with Soviet-approved candidates. The phoney parliament applies for admittance to the USSR, which is granted August 6. WWII continues to rage across Europe and by the end of 1941 the Nazis win Estonia from the Soviets. The German occupation lasts three years. Soviet forces begin air attacks March 15, 1942, and cause serious damage in the infamous attack of March 9, 1944. By September the Germans have fled. Estonia is declared a Republic again on September 18, but Soviet forces reach Tallinn four days later. Soviet occupation In the first years of the renewed Soviet regime, 36,000 Estonians are arrested and accused of aiding the Nazis. At the same time 30,000 - 35,000 people flee to the woods to resist the regime as Forest Brothers. In the years following, Estonia endures political repression and isolation, while Estonians who had fled to the West try to keep their culture alive in exile. During the post-Stalin period, life in Estonia takes on a bureaucratic routine similar to that found elsewhere in the USSR. Over the coming decades, hundreds of thousands of ethnic Russians are sent to live in the Estonian territory. In the 1970s and 80s, Finnish TV broadcasts give Tallinn residents a glimpse of life in the West. Restoration of Independance and beyond What had started as a series of environmental protests in 1987 quickly develops into a new National Awakening as demonstrations against the system become more open. From June 10-14, 1988, over 100,000 people a night pack the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds. The events of the summer are henceforth known as the Singing Revolution. Later that same year, in a move known as the beginning of the end for the Soviet Union, the Supreme Soviet of the Estonian SSR passes a declaration of sovereignty. On February 24, 1989, the Estonian flag is raised over Tallinn, inciting protests and massive strikes, which continue until March 3, 1991, when 78% of voters cast their vote for independence in a referendum and on August 20, Estonia declares independence. The Estonian kroon becomes the first national currency introduced in the former Soviet Union. On November 13, 1999 Estonia becomes the 135th member of the World Trade Organization (WTO). On March 29, 2004 Estonia joins NATO. On May 1 Estonia becomes an EU member as the bloc expands to encompass ten new states. December 21, 2007 Estonia joins Schengen. January 1, 2011 Estonia joins the common European currency Euro. Summer 2020

Culture & Events While Tallinn may not be a cultural metropolis like London, Paris or New York, people here do still like to feed their souls. The town is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, several interesting museums, galleries, and even a couple art-house cinemas. If you are still thirsting for more, an exhaustive calendar of culture is available at www.culture.ee.

main events Communism is Prison May - September 30. Open Wed - Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Patarei Sea Fortress (see p.19), https://patareiprison.org. From May through September, The Estonian Institute of Historical Memory has opened an exhibition area 'Communism is Prison' which introduces the nature of communist ideology, its international crimes, stories of its victims, and the history of the complex. The communist regime in Estonia, on periods of 1940-1941 and 1944-1991, imprisoned innocent people in the historical Patarei fortress on ideological pretext. The exhibition area is the first stage of establishing the International Museum for the Victims of Communism and research centre that will be built in the Patarei complex in the coming years. Entrance to the area is from the side facing the Port of Tallinn from Suur-Patarei street through the gate, or from the seaside promenade through the small gate. Admission €8, reduced €5.

where to get tickets Tickets to most major events are available from: Piletilevi E-5, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, www. piletilevi.ee. Also at: D-6, Solaris Centre, Estonia pst. 9. Estonia’s major concert organiser, Eesti Kontsert, has its own box office in Tallinn at D-6, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614 77 00, info@concert.ee, www.concert.ee. Tallinn Music Week 2020 August 26 - 30, Telliskivi Creative City (see p.26), No‑ blessner (see p.31), www.tallinnmusicweek.ee. Tallinn Music Week started in 2009 with a plan to introduce the entire world to Estonian music, from jazz and folk to punk and metal. A kind of crash course in Estonian music was born, which will fill all of Tallinn’s clubs, theatres and cellar bars with the freshest and most exciting Estonian music there is. Tallinn Music Week will be attended by many movers and shakers from the European music scene. Invitees include festival directors, organisers, managers, agents, record companies, publishers and journalists from prestigious international media publications. Tallinn Music Week is a large-scale party for Estonians and foreign fans and an opportunity for talented Estonian musicians to get noticed outside the country’s borders. Tallinn Food Truck Festival August 28, Tallinn Song Festival grounds (see p.27). The most mouth-watering festival of the season awaits you at the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds. Being held at the end of August, this event will satisfy your every mouth-watering craving. From falafels to churros, and food on a stick you’ve never even heard of, you’ll find it here. If you or your stomach can still handle it, an all-day amusement park offers up entertainment for the young as well as the young at heart.

XXI Medieval Days August 15 - 16, various places in the Old Town, http:// medievaldays.ee. Kind of like the Old Town Days, only not, the Medieval Days’ aim is to promote the importance of and remember fondly, smelly old medieval Tallinn. After all, without the medieval times,Old Town wouldn’t be so old would it. Expect playfulness, medieval music, folk art, handicrafts and random historical goings on. On the opening day there will even be a carnival at Town Hall Square, so put on your silliest hat and join in. Museum Night 2020 August 29, all official museums and other institutions throughout Estonia, http://muuseumioo.ee. Once a year, this year on a Saturday evening in August, Tallinn’s museums and other institutions stay open later and offer free admission to all who can handle standing in a queue for hours. Museum Night has a different motto each year and this year’s theme is ‘Night of Time’. The goal of Museum Night is to offer people the chance to discover and rediscover these cultural values on this special night. 8 Tallinn In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events Arvo Pärt Days 2020 September 2 - 11, St. John's Church (C-6, Vabaduse väl‑ jak 1), www.nargenfestival.ee. Nargenfestival celebrates Arvo Pärt's 85th birthday with the new, and never heard in Estonia before, version of the composer's several pieces arranged by himself and others. With several concerts throughout the event, the anniversary season's highlight will be the traditional Arvo Pärt's birthday concert of the composer's pieces with a soprano soloist, two organs, two choirs and an orchestra. Bocuse d'Or Europe 2020 September 3 - 4, Saku Suurhall (see p.11), http://www. bocusedor.ee. Foodies not familiar with this prestigious cooking competition will certainly not want to miss any of the culinary action at Saku Suurhall. This is how it works: 24 young chefs from all over the world must prepare dishes within 5 hours and 35 minutes. Their dishes are judged by a jury of top chefs. The finalists will go on to compete in the finals in Lyon in January 2021. Estonia has been competing in the Bocuse d’Or for ten years and thanks to the dedication and passion of Dimitri Demjanov, the competition will be held in Tallinn for the first time. Tallinn Coffee Festival 2020 September 5 - 6, Tallinn Creative Hub (see p.11), https://tallinncoffeefestival.ee. Tallinn Coffee Festival is an event where both professionals and enthusiasts – local roasters, cafes, distributors and coffee lovers – can get together. Guests can explore many different types of coffee specialties, preparation methods and equipment. Good music, entertaining program, engaging competitions and a wonderful aroma wait for all the guests of the festival. In addition to coffee, the festival also features other hot drinks like tea and hot chocolate, street food places and cafes.

Art galleries There are loads of little galleries in Tallinn, here we have listed some of the more important and centrally-located ones. Design & Architecture Gallery Changing exhibition of Estonian product design.QC‑5, Pärnu mnt. 6, tel. +372 627 36 30. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Sun. Free admission. Draakoni Gallery The famous Dragon gallery holds small, often strange exhibitions in its quaint, Old Town shop. QC‑4, Pikk 18, tel. +372 646 41 10, www.eaa.ee/draakon/. Open 11:0018:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun. Free admission.

www.inyourpocket.com 10 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Fotografiska Tallinn Internationally renowned Fotografiska has opened its new location in Telliskivi Creative City (see page 28). The gallery or meeting place is known for bringing the world’s best photography to its walls, and its Tallinn location is no exception. The aim of this urban meeting place is to redefine the traditional museum space, where visitors are invited to linger and become inspired. Fotografiska includes exhibition and event spaces, a music club, bars (see page 30), café, gift shop, and restaurant (see page 29). Current exhibitions: until Septem‑ ber 13 Bryan Adams ‘Exposed’, until July 19 Tom of Finland ‘The Darkroom’, until August 31 Lina Iris Viktor ‘Dark Testament’, until August 31 Sebastiao Salgado ‘Gold’. Please check their website for upcoming exhibitions.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/8, www.fotografiska.com/Tallinn. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Admission €15, reduced €12, family €28. Haus Gallery A commercial gallery, Haus is also open to the public and has an active exhibition schedule. Until August 13: Marko Mäetamm. Connections.. QC‑4, Uus 17, tel. +372 641 94 71, www.haus.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. Closed in July. Free admission. Buzz to enter. Hobusepea Gallery The Estonian Artists’ Union operates this cosy, two-storey gallery.QC‑4, Hobusepea 2, tel. +372 627 67 77, www. eaa.ee/hobusepea. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Tue. Free admission. Juhan Kuus Documentary Photo Centre Named after Juhan Kuus, a world-renowned documentary photographer of Estonian origin who lived and worked in South Africa. This new documentary photo centre aims to promote and support the development of documentary photography in Estonia as well as showcasing of Estonian documentary photos around the world. Until July 26: Silvia Pärmann. The Countries that do not exist. See website for full programme of events and exhibitions.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/5, tel. +372 522 24 22, www.dokfoto.ee/ en. Open 12:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €10. Kai Art Centre Giving new life and purpose to one of the historic Noblessner (read more on p.31), formerly secret, submarine and military ship building plant structures, Kai unites and promotes both local and international artists from all the various contemporary artistic disciplines. From artist-residency programs, special events, workshops, lectures, and a state-of-the-art cinema space - to unique and thought provoking exhibits, Kai is an innovative institution. Visit the Temnikova & Kasela art gallery, which hosts interesting exhibitions by local and foreign artists. Worthy of visiting simply for the art and artistic endeavours - on the ground floor of the premises you’ll find four eateries/locales that will provide an artistic experience for your tummy.QJ‑6, Peetri 12, www.kai.center. Open 12:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue. Exhibitions €8, reduced €5. Y tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Tallinn Art Hall & Galleries Drop into this imposing 1930s-era building on Vabaduse square to find some of the most daring and avant-garde temporary exhibitions from Estonia and abroad. The Art Hall’s smaller galleries (where admission is free) at Vabaduse väljak 6 and Harju 13 host separate exhibitions. Until July 12: Estonian Artists Association Spring Exhibition. July 18 - September 6: Urmas Pedanik. Transitions. July 24 - October 4: Olev Subbi. Landscapes from the End of Times. July 17 - September 6: Alina Bliumis and Tanja Muravskaja. Narrating Against the Grain.QC‑6, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. +372 644 28 18, www.kunstihoone.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €8, re‑ duced €4, family €12. Y

Coca-Cola Plaza This high-tech, 11-screen super cinema is most people’s first stop for Hollywood blockbusters. Now even featuring a 3D theatre. Tickets for evening shows cost €7.50 - 8.70, 3D costs €8.50 - 9.70.QE‑4, Hobujaama 5, www. forumcinemas.ee. Sõprus Now operating on a regular basis, this is the kind of place cinemaphiles hang out at. These art house films are often European or Estonian productions, but be warned - you may not be able to see them with English subtitles. Truly for the more hard core among cinema viewers. See website for schedule. Ticket booth opens one hour before ‘seance’ - not really sure what that means, but Bela Lugosi might also be in attendance. Tickets cost €3 - 6.50.QC‑5, Vana-Posti 8, tel. +372 644 19 19, www.kinosoprus.ee.

Event and Culture Venues

Tallinn Art Hall and Galleries

Cinemas Tallinn’s cinemas are fairly central, and all films except kids’ films are shown in their original language with Estonian subtitles. Apollo Kino Solaris Located in the Solaris Centre, this is the most state of the art cinema in Tallinn. Tickets for evening shows cost €7.19 8.39, 3D costs €8.39 - 9.49.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9, tel. +372 633 60 20, www.apollokino.ee. Artis Tallinn’s two-theatre, art-house cinema has a full schedule of independent films, Estonian productions, shorts and kids’ films. Tickets cost €5.50 - 7.20, 3D costs €6.20 - 8.80. QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 663 13 80, www.kino.ee. Cinamon Kosmos During the Soviet-era, Kosmos was the most advanced cinema in the Baltics. Three theatres are housed here, one of which has the largest screen in Estonia. Regular and 3D films are also shown in the other halls. See website for programme and ticket details. Tickets cost €5.83 - 9.77.QK‑8, Pärnu mnt. 45, tel. +372 53 08 07 02, www.cinamonkino.com/kosmos.

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Alexela Concert Hall Tallinn’s world-class concert hall, complete with a stunning sound system and high-tech gadgetry.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9, tel. +372 615 51 11, www.tallinnconcerthall.com. Estonia Concert Hall The premier venue for classical music and the home of national concert organiser Eesti Kontsert.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 4, tel. +372 614 77 65, www.concert.ee. Open 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. On Sundays open one hour be‑ fore scheduled concerts. Estonian National Opera The majestic, historical opera house is located in the very heart of Tallinn. The repertoire consists of classical and contemporary operas, ballets, as well as operettas, musicals, and frequent performances by internationally-renowed guests. More information and tickets: www.opera. ee.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 4, tel. +372 683 12 15, www.opera. ee. Box office open 11:00 - 19:00, closed Mon. Y Saku Suurhall Famous as the venue for the 47th Eurovision Song Contest in 2002, this 7000-seat sports and concert arena hosts large concerts and major sporting events.QF‑8, Paldiski mnt. 104b, tel. +372 660 02 00, www.sakusuurhall.ee. Tallinn Creative Hub (Kultuurikatel) Located nearby Linnahall in a host of renovated industrial buildings - this cultural area has lots to offer the visitor who is looking for something a little different. From concerts to workshops, film nights, theatrical performances, fashion shows, various art exhibitions, special events and even the occasional flea market - the opportunities here are endless.QD‑2, Põhja pst. 27a, tel. +372 56 20 11 15, www. kultuurikatel.ee. Summer 2020

Sightseeing

Red Lion cannon in the Danish King’s Garden (see listed below) Given its age (over 800 years old) and fascinating history, Tallinn is chalk-full of sights, museums and countless stories to help you pass the time rather interestingly. Here you’lll find the must-sees and a whole lot more. Find the Tourist Information Point in the Basics section.

essential Old Town Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town.

Toompea Hill Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town. Climb Pikk jalg and you’ll find yourself on Castle Square (Lossi plats), smack-dab between the seat of the Estonian government at Toompea Castle and the 19th-century symbol of the Tsar’s power in Estonia, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. You are standing at the birthplace of Tallinn, where the Knights of the Sword built a fortress in 1229. 12 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral Toompea’s dominating landmark is the Russian Orthodox cathedral named for the duke who attacked southeastern Estonia and Pskov in the early 13th century. Tsar Alexander III ordered the cathedral designed in 1894 by St. Petersburg master Mikhail Preobrazhensky and it was completed in 1900. According to legend, the cathedral was built on the grave of Estonian hero Kalev and has suffered structurally as a result.QA‑5, Lossi plats 10, tel. +372 644 34 84, www.orthodox.ee. Open 08:00-18:00. Services in Russian Mon - Fri 08:30; 17:00, Sat 08:30, Sun 09:30. Free admission. Danish King’s Garden One of the most picturesque and secluded locations in Old Town, the Danish King’s Garden is filled with trees, benches, little nooks and a great view of the Niguliste Church spire. The Garden also has a dark side, as it’s featured in the centre of many famous ghost stories about the Maiden’s Tower, Marstal Tower and Short Leg Gate Tower. The best time to visit the garden is at night with the medieval walls at your back and the beautifully lit lower town roofs providing ambience. Statues of three monks are illuminated. It also features two of Tallinn’s fortification towers, Neitsitorn (Maiden’s Tower) and Tallitorn (Marstal Tower). A replica of the 16th century Red Lion cannon was added to the garden in Spring 2018.QB‑5, Lühike jalg 9a. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing - Essential Old Town tallinn card If you’re trying pack the most into your time in Tallinn, consider picking up the city tourist office’s discount card, the Tallinn Card, good for 24hrs (€29), 48hrs (€43), or 72hrs (€52). There is also Tallinn Card Plus which gets you a free entry to the hop-on hop-off buses and costs 24hrs (€40), 48hrs (€54), 72hrs (€64). For kids 7 17, the price is reduced by about 50%. Cardholders will gain free admission to over 40 museums and sights in the city, unlimited use of public transport and all sorts of fun bonuses and freebies at restaurants, shops, etc. Look for the Y symbol in this guide for listed partners. The card can be bought online and used in your mobile phone or you can buy a plastic card from major hotels as well as the airport, harbour and at the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre (Kullassepa 4). For more details, consult the website at www.tallinncard.ee. Dome Church (Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin) What might be the oldest church in Estonia was founded in 1219 by the first wave of Danish forces. The Gothic exterior dates to the 14th century, but the interior was rebuilt after the 1684 fire. The Baroque pulpit (1686) and organ loft (1780) are worth a look. As you enter be sure to step on the tomb of Otto Johann Thuve, who asked that his grave be placed in this humbling location. Please be considerate and visit after the Sunday service. The tower’s viewing platform is open to the public 09:30-17:30.QA‑5, Toomkooli 6, tel. +372 644 41 40, www.toomkirik.ee. Open 09:00-18:00. Services in Estonian Sun 11:00. Organ music Sat 12:00. Admission €2. Tower admission €5. Y Toompea Castle Built on the spot where the ancient Estonians’ wooden fortress stood before the 1219 Danish invasion, Tallinn’s castle served for seven centuries as the seat of power for the nation’s foreign masters. Now it houses the Riigikogu, Estonia’s parliament. On one corner of the castle you can

see Pikk Hermann tower with the blue, black and white tricolour flag waving above it. It’s commonly recognised that whoever’s flag flies on top of this tower is the ruler of Estonia. The pink section you see in front is actually a baroque structure added in the 18th Century. For a more castle-like view of this building, head behind it, down the opposite side of the hill.QA‑5, Lossi plats 1, tel. +372 631 63 45, www.riigikogu.ee/en/visit-us. Viewing platforms The Kohtuotsa and Patkuli view platforms are usually the first place that tourists want to see when they visit Tallinn. From here, sweeping views of the town, its red-tiled roofs, its towers, its walls and all of its charm open up. Get your camera ready.QB‑4, Toompea hill.

Toompea Castle. Photo by Kaupo Kalda

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Sightseeing - Essential Old Town Lower Town Lower Town, the larger part of medieval Tallinn (or Reval as it was called back then), became a member of the Hanseatic League at the end of the 13th century. Goods from around the world came in through the port and were traded on the market on Town Hall Square. Reval operated autonomously from the rest of the Estonian territories right up until Tsarist Russian times. As in the rest of the country, the real movers and shakers in Reval society were the Baltic Germans, with Ethnic Estonians for most part second-class citizens. However, Estonian peasants from surrounding areas often escaped to the city, where they could eventually be considered free. Holy Spirit Church This awe-inspiring, 13th-century church adjacent Town Hall Square sports an impressive Baroque tower as well as an ornate, outdoor clock that’s said to be one of the most photographed objects in Tallinn. The real treasure however is the intricate, wood-carved interior, which includes Baroque pews and a Renaissance pulpit (the oldest in Tallinn). Founded by the Order of the Holy Spirit, the church was always close to the people - It was the most active in providing alms to the sick and poor, and it was here that the first sermons were given in Estonian after the Reformation.QC‑4, Pühavaimu 2, tel. +372 646 44 30, www. puhavaimu.ee. Services in English every Sunday at 13:00, classical music hour Mon 18:00. Entrance fee €1.50. Y Niguliste Church - Museum Tallinn’s most famous work of art, a wall-sized fragment of Bernt Notke’s spooky, 15thcentury masterpiece Dance Macabre, has its home in this 13th-century Gothic churchturned art museum. Destroyed during World War II and rebuilt during Soviet times, the church now houses a fascinating collection of medieval religious art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries, a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers, and a ‘silver chamber.’ The church is also known for its acoustics - organ concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00. Special exhibition on display until August 16 ‘The Virgin Mary: Woman, Mother, Queen’, focuses medieval and early modern art works from houses of worship in Estonia and Livonia.QB‑5, Niguliste 3, tel. +372 631 43 30, www. nigulistemuuseum.ekm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €8, reduced €6, family €16. Y 14 Tallinn In Your Pocket

St. Catherine’s Passage One of the prettiest little walkways in all of Old Town, the medieval St. Catherine’s passage connects Vene and Müürivahe streets. On the northern portion of the passage you can find what’s left of St. Catherine’s Church (hence the passage name) and various large, ancient tombstones that used to line the inside of the sanctuary. On the southern portion of the passage, you’ll find numerous artisan workshops, where you’ll even get to see them hard at work creating new items for you to buy. At any rate, we’re sure you’ll find Katarina Käik, a pretty nice hike.QC‑4, Katariina Käik. St. Olaf’s Church St. Olaf’s 124m spire is a Tallinn landmark, and was the tallest building in Europe between 1549 and 1625. An old legend claims that the church was built to attract more merchant ships to the town by a mysterious craftsman who promised to work for free if the townspeople discovered his name (Olev). In reality, the church took its name from the canonised Norwegian king, Olav Havaldsson. The first mention of the church dates to 1267, but the interior dates to 1840 and reflects that era’s Historicist bent. The tower’s viewing platform is open to the public from May 18 through October daily 10:00-18:00. Tower admission €5. QC‑3, Lai 50, tel. +372 641 22 41, www.oleviste.ee. Open 10:00-18:00. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, 12:00, Thu 18:30 (prayer). Y Town Hall Square As a medieval market and a modern meeting place, Town Hall Square, has been the heart of city life for eight centuries. With the Town Hall at your back, you can survey some of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture in Tallinn. Hunt for a circular stone in the centre of the square marked with a compass rose. From here, if you stretch, you can see the tops Tallinn’s five most famous spires.QC‑5, Raekoja plats.

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Sightseeing Town Hall The jewel in the crown of Old Town is unquestionably the Town Hall, the centre of civic rule from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. Though a previous town hall stood here at least as far back as 1322, the imposing Gothic building of today dates to 1404. Old Thomas, the weather vane who symbolises Tallinn, has been keeping watch since 1530. Most of the year you need to call ahead to arrange for a glimpse of the vaulted halls, however from July through August Town Hall is open for all visitors. Also you can enjoy breathtaking views of Town Hall Square from Town Hall tower, open only in summer from May 20 till September 15, 11:00-18:00. Tower admission €4.QC‑5, Raekoja plats 1, tel. +372 645 79 00, www.raekoda.tallinn.ee. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €10. Y Town Hall Pharmacy One of the oldest continuously running pharmacies in Europe is on Town Hall Square. No one knows exactly when it opened, but records show that the Raeapteek was already on its third owner in 1422. In medieval times patients could buy mummy juice and burnt bees for treatment, and healthy folks could even drop in for a glass of spiced wine. Keeping up with the times, the pharmacy sells the usual aspirin and condoms, but part of the shop is also a museum, displaying old medical instruments and other curiosities.QC‑4, Raekoja plats 11, tel. +372 58 87 57 01, www.raeapteek.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. Free admission.

steven the seagull Estonia’s most photographed seagull lives in the Old Town on the Kohtuotsa viewing platform, where he has posed for hundreds of tourist photos. The seagull is so famous that in 2016 he got his own Instagram account. It may have started as an April Fool’s prank from the city’s tourist board, but this European Herring Gull became an instant star. If you want a photo with Steven, you’ll most likely find him at the Kohtuotsa or Patkuli viewing platforms. And while he may appear hungry, please don’t share your food with him. Follow Steven Seagull @vanalinnakajakasQB‑4. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Magnificent Medieval art at the Niguliste Museum

WELCOME! Niguliste 3, Tallinn, Estonia Opening hours: Tue–Sun 10 am – 6 pm | Mon closed WORKSHOP OF HERMEN RODE IN LÜBECK. RETABLE OF THE HIGH ALTAR OF TALLINN’S ST NICHOLAS’ CHURCH. DETAIL. 1478–1481. ART MUSEUM OF ESTONIA

skywheel of tallinn See Tallinn from a new angle from the Skywheel! At 120 metres above sea level, you’ll have magnificent views of the city, the sea, Ülemiste Lake and the airport. Each weather-proof pod holds up to six people. The pods are heated in winter and air-conditioned in summer. If you want to make it an extra special experience, you can book a 100€ Mumm VIP package (for up to 4 people) that includes a ride in a private Mumm VIP gondola, with leather armchairs, and a champagne cooler with a cold bottle of the world-famous G.H. Mumm champagne or a non-alcoholic drink. QM‑8, Peterburi tee 2 (T1 Mall of Tallinn), tel. +372 656 51 15, www.SkywheelOfTallinn.ee. Open 10:00-22:00; Mon 12:00-22:00. Admission €10, family €28. Chil‑ dren up to 3 years old free of charge. Y

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Sightseeing Churches Although Tallinn is small, the amount of historic churches around the city is quite impressive. The styles and variety in architecture also vary quite a bit, from the predominate Lutheran to Orthodox and Catholic amongst others. Tallinn’s most famous churches have already been listed in the Old Town section, but here are some others for readers with a special interest. Dominican Monastery Claustrum This 13th century monastery offers a glimpse into the lives of medieval monks. The east wing of the once three chambers remains where you can explore many rooms including a monk’s dormitory and prior’s living quarters. One of the most interesting spots may be the downstairs room that houses the ‘energy pillar’ purportedly the source of a mysterious power.QC‑4, Müürivahe 33, tel. +372 511 25 36, www.claustrum.eu. Open 10:00-17:30. Open from May through September, other times only for prearranged group bookings. Admission €3. Various programmes available, see website for details. St. Charles the XI’s Church Built in pseudo-Romanesque style on the site of a 17thcentury wooden church, Kaarli is an excellent example of the use of one of Estonia’s greatest resources - limestone. In all, construction took 20 years (1862 - 1882), but painter Johann Köler completed Estonia’s largest mural here, Come to Me, in just ten days. The church is also home to Estonia’s largest church organ.QA‑7, Toompuiestee 4, tel. +372 611 91 00, www.kaarlikogudus.ee. Services in Es‑ tonian Sun 10:00 and Mon 13:00. Classical music hour on Tue 17:00. St. Michael’s Swedish Lutheran Church Originally built as a hospital in the 16th century, St. Michael’s also housed a spinning factory where ‘fallen women’ worked. Then it was transformed into a church for local Swedes. After serving as a weightlifting room under the Soviets, the church was returned in 1993 to the Swedish congregation, whose efforts to fund-raise for renovation of the church have paid off. Book in advance for museum tour.QB‑5, Rüütli 9, tel. +372 644 19 38, www. stmikael.ee. Services in Swedish every Sunday 12:00 and in Finnish every Sunday 10:00. In German every 2nd and 4th Sunday 15:00. St. Peter and Paul’s Roman Catholic Church A relative newcomer as far as Tallinn’s houses of worship go, this pseudo-Gothic church was built in on the former refectory of the Dominican Monastery from 1841 - 1844. Drop by to look at the interior. If the door is locked, go to the office and knock.QC‑4, Vene 18, tel. +372 644 63 67, www.katoliku.ee. Services in Estonian Mon - Fri 08:00, Mon - Wed & Fri 18:00, Sun 11:30; in Russian Sun 18:00; in Latin Sat 08:00; in Polish Thu 18:00, Sun 10:00; in En‑ glish Sat 18:00. 16 Tallinn In Your Pocket

view from above While Tallinn did once have the tallest building in the world, St Olaf’s Church, it’s certainly not known for its massive skyscrapers. But, don’t worry, there are still quite a few places you can climb to the top of and take in a stunning view of the city. Tallinn’s TV Tower, St. Olaf’s Church Tower, the Dome Church Tower, Town Hall Tower, Old Town viewing platforms, SkyWheel of Tallinn ferris wheel, all have their own entries in the ‘Sightseeing’ section.QC‑5.

Sightseeing tours City Bike Tours Now more than just bikes, Citybike offers tours on wheels and by foot. There are tours available for pretty much any interesting sight in and around the city. These include excursions of Old Town, including a visit to the tunnels and trips to Pirita and Kadriorg. Customised tours are also available. Excursions leave from the City Bike office in Old Town. Reservations for all bikes and tours are a must during the summer. See website for more info, prices and details. QC‑4, Vene 33, tel. +372 511 18 19, www.citybike.ee. Open 10:00-19:00. Y City Train This is a happy, blue little tourist train that makes a 25-minute circuit through the streets of Old Town all year long. Departures are from Vana-Viru street, near Viru gates. Great fun for both kids and kids-at-heart. Ride costs €7 for adults and €5 for the kids.QC‑5, tel. +372 58 87 77 42. EstAdventures This innovative outfit organises regular free walking tours such as a great Communist Tallinn tour and an excellent Old Town tour. Tours start in Tallinn Tourist Information Center.Qtel. +372 58 02 75 84, www.estadventures.ee. Liviko Museum and Distillery tour The Liviko Distillery tour takes you on a journey into a 121-year-old distillery, where visitors can experience an interactive museum, working distillery and see how raw materials are transformed into final products. Guests can also participate in beverage tastings or cocktail classes. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

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Liviko Distillery

livikodistillery

The tour covers all the different stages of production – distilling, filtration, bottling and vodka mixing. Liviko’s interactive museum lets you explore your hidden gin-DJ skills, dress up and get photographed as a legendary Viru Valge Hornblower, or even test the volume of your lungs and identify botanicals by scent. Three different tours are on offer: Classic Tour (€18 per person), Premium Tour (€40 per person, which also includes cocktail training), and a tailor-made tour for groups of up to 15 people (starting from €1000). All tours must be booked in advance, and you must be at least 18 years old to participate. QMasina 11, tel. +372 667 80 67, www.liviko.ee/distillery. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. Nordic Experience If you want to make the most of your limited time, and enjoy a personal private guided tour, check out ‘Nordic Experience’. Their friendly and entertaining guides can be booked on short notice and your tour can be tailored to suit your pace and interests.QD‑5, Viru 21, tel. +372 59 00 51 51, www.nordicexperience.com. Ronk Ronk Ghost and Folkore Tours Do you love ghost stories and folklore? Take a tour with Ronk Ronk to discover such things as ‘Oldest Ghost of Tallinn’ and ‘Hidden Stories of Down-town of Tallinn’. Minimum group size is 10 people for a private tour or look at their schedule for regular tours. Qtel. +372 53 90 21 77/+372 56 48 99 38, www.ronkronk.ee. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Info and booking www.livikodistillery.ee

Sunlines Sunlines offers cruises of Tallinn Bay and the islands as well as several tours. Sunlines ships depart from the Seaplane Harbour.QJ‑6, Seaplane harbour pier A3 (Vesilennuki 6), tel. +372 503 23 21, www.sunlines.eu. Tallinn Day Trip by Prangli Travel Prangli Travel offers professionally-guided private and group day trips from Tallinn. Different tours and activities in Tallinn, as well in its surroundings include the Old Town walking tour, Tallinn Top Attractions tour, Lahemaa National Park day trip, Prangli island day trip, bog-walking and sauna, tours to Jägala waterfall and many more. All day trips start conveniently from Tallinn. QB‑6, tel. +372 56 47 71 72, www.tallinndaytrip.com. Tallinn Official Sightseeing Tour The classic general tour of Tallinn, the Official Sightseeing Tour, is made up of two parts: a bus tour of the city that covers downtown and some of the more interesting outer areas, and also a walking tour of Old Town. The whole affair takes 2.5 hours. The tour costs €30 and departure is 10:30 daily in front of Original Sokos Hotel Viru. See website for detailed information. Pre-booking is needed.QE‑5, tel. +372 610 86 16, www.travel-expert.eu.

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Sightseeing Art museums

History museums

Located throughout the city, you’ll find some intriguing art museums to explore, some of which are located in Kadriorg. If you’re interested in learning more about Estonian art, KUMU, the Art Museum of Estonia is a good place to start, with the largest permanent collection (see page 26).

Estonia’s fascinating history can be discovered in one of its many history museums. Starting in the Old Town, you can learn about 11,000 years of Estonia’s history at the Great Guild Hall, or the country’s haunting Soviet past at the KGB Prison Cells. Towards Pirita area you can find the Maarjamäe History Centre and futher on to Viimsi area the Estonian War Museum.

Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia In a former office building on a deck of an old heating plant is where you’ll find the Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia. The museum aims to find middle ground between official art museums and alternative galleries. Exhibitions are constantly changing, so be sure to check the website for what’s on display. In addition to the exhibitions, there is also a café on the main floor that often hosts different events. Until August 2: Hier Nicht. QD‑2, Põhja pst. 35, tel. +372 53 30 54 49, www.ekkm.ee. Open 12:00-19:00; closed Mon. Open from April 18 through December. Free admission. Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design Works of Estonian applied art and intriguing temporary exhibitions are set off by irregular white walls. Until July 26: Patterns: Krenholm textile design 1963 - 2005. June 20 - September 20: Ingrid Allik. SEKRET / CEKPET. A-hide and seek of memories.QC‑4, Lai 17, tel. +372 627 46 00, www.etdm.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Ad‑ mission €6, reduced €3, family €10. Y Museum of Photography Back in the 14th century this building behind the Town Hall served as the town prison (as a visit to the cellar will show). Now it houses an extensive exhibition on Estonian photography, mainly devoted to the 1840 - 1940 period. Drop in to peruse the old Tallinn photos, recreated studio and antique cameras on display.QC‑5, Raekoja 4/6, tel. +372 644 87 67, www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. Open 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €10. Y Russian Museum This small museum on Pikk street is dedicated to Russian culture in Estonia. They usually feature a different Russian-Estonian artist every few months or a Russian artist who spent part of their life in Estonia. During the Tsarist era many famous Russian painters, artists and writers spent time in Estonia from Pushkin to Dostoyevsky - the list is large. This small museum is not exactly ‘English’ friendly but if you are fascinated by Russian culture and how it’s influenced Estonia, the €20 English-language guided tour might be worth it. . QC‑4, Pikk 29a, tel. +372 660 41 40, www.linnamuuseum.ee/vemu. Open 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €4, reduced €3, family €8. Y

www.inyourpocket.com 18 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Estonian History Museum - Great Guild Hall Housed in the Great Guild Hall, this newly renovated museum’s permanent exhibition, entitled ‘Spirit of Survival’, covers 11,000 years of Estonia’s history with interactive displays and text in Estonian and English (audio-guides available in Russian and English). The building, built 1407 - 1410, is significant as the home of Tallinn’s union of wealthy merchants and is a sight worth visiting in its own right. As part of the renovations, several formal rooms and cellars have now been opened to the public for the first time. Next to the museum, follow the Börsi Passage where Estonia’s history is set in the stone path (when it’s not covered in snow), from the pre-history, through the presentday. The exhibition ‘I love you, Georg Ots’ is on display until October 11. The famous singer and actor Georg Ots (1920-1975) was adored for his talent and charm. He was highly regarded in Estonia, as well as in Russia and Finland. The exhibition looks at the actor’s life and work through the eyes of his admirers and aims to unravel the meaning of Georg Ots for his contemporaries and his place in Estonian culture. QC‑4, Pikk 17, tel. +372 696 86 90, www. ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €8, reduced €6, family €16. Y

Estonian History Museum - Great Guild Hall

Estonian History Museum - Maarjamäe History Centre Maarjamäe Palace is the most well-preserved, summer manor complex in Tallinn today. Built in 1874 and commissioned by Count Anatoly Orlov-Davydov from St. Petersburg, it has played many different roles during its long history. This palace has housed a posh restaurant and hotel, an Aviation School of the Republic of Estonia as well as the Soviet army, before being given new life as a museum in 1987. The permanent exhibition ‘My Free Country’ takes visitors on a 100-year journey, from the birth of the Repubtallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing patarei

Estonian History Museum - Maarjamäe History Centre

lic of Estonia to modern day. Part of the Estonian History Museum, the Estonian Film Museum houses a permanent exhibition entitled ‘Take ONE’. The exhibition looks at the filmmaking process and lets you in on the secrets of filmmaking and filmmakers. Over the last decade, the museum has been collecting monuments from the Soviet period with the intention of making an outdoor exhibition that presents a specific period of local history. This exhibition is displayed behind Maarjamäe Palace and forms one part of the museum’s new park. The historic Maarjamäe Stables building is a venue for exhibitions, currently displaying ‘Sound of Freedom. The Story of Estonian Popular Music’.QN‑6, Pirita tee 56, tel. +372 696 86 00, www. ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. En‑ tire centre admission €8, reduced €6, family €16. Y Estonian War Museum - General Laidoner Museum Housed in Viimsi Manor, the former summer residence of General Johan Laidoner, the Estonian War Museum is a great place to start if you’d like to learn more about the history of this country. Over hundreds of years, Estonia has had troops fighting on its soil from Denmark, Sweden, Germany, Poland, Russia and has even hosted a fair share of Viking battles. Inside you’ll find displays and stories about the various wars Estonia and Estonians have been involved in. There are several exhibitions available for visit. The exhibition starts with a room dedicated to war history in Estonia since ancient times to the 20th century. The exhibition of WW I speaks about the destiny of Estonians

Estonian War Museum

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Patarei Sea Fortress and former prison This imposing, seaside complex in the Kalamaja district is now one of the best places in the world to catch a glimpse of Soviet-era prison life in all its dreariness. Originally opened as a sea fortress in 1840 and operated as an artillery battery, it housed inmates from 1919 until 2002 and has been left virtually untouched since. Most of the year the prison is closed to visitors, but you can still see it from the outside. From May through September, The Estonian Institute of Historical Memory has opened an exhibition area ‘Communism is Prison’ which introduces the nature of communist ideology, its international crimes, stories of its victims, and the history of the complex. The museum and research centre will continue to expand in the coming years. Entrance to the area is from the side facing the Port of Tallinn from Suur-Patarei street through the gate, or from the seaside promenade through the small gate.QJ/K‑6, Kalaranna 28, tel. +372 664 50 39, www.patareiprison.org. Open Wed - Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission €8, reduced €5.

who either conscripted or drafted voluntarily to the Russian army and is continued with the exhibition about the Estonian War of Independence. The period of WW II is told through the story of three men depicting the situation in Estonia under the occupations. The highlight of Cold War exhibition is a replica of a winter bunker of Estonian partisans (so-called Forest Brothers). Selection of Estonian historical uniforms as well as around 130 firearms and cold arms from the mid-18th century to the 20th century can also be seen. A display of big artillery guns and military vehicles is located 300 m from the museum. Getting there: Take bus N°1A to Viimsi from the Viru Centre’s underground bus terminal (C-4) and get off at Viimsi vallamaja stop (should be about a 25min ride). Walk back to the main road and turn right, another 50m and it will be the large yellow building on your left.QO‑1, Mõisa tee 1, Viimsi, tel. +372 621 74 10, www.esm.ee. Open 11:0018:00; closed Mon, Tue. The heavy artillery exposition is open from May through September Fri - Sun 11:00 18:00. Admission €3, reduced €2, family €5. Y Summer 2020

Sightseeing KGB Prison Cells The unsuspecting facade of Pagari 1 in the Old Town hides a dark past that once was the KGB Prison Cells in Tallinn. The former KGB headquarters building has long been a symbol of the former Soviet oppression in Estonia. In the basement, suspected enemies of the state were imprisoned in tiny cells, sometimes up to 18 people at a time, before they were interrogated, then either shot or sent to labour camps in Siberia. Visit a part of the dark cellar, KGB Prison Cells is now open for visitors.QC‑3, Pagari 1 (en‑ trance on Pikk 59), tel. +372 668 02 50, www.vabamu. ee/kgb-prison-cells. Open 14:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:0018:00. Admission €5, reduced €4, family €11. Joint ticket with Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom available. Y Kiek in de Kök Fortifications Kiek in de Kök, Bastion Passages, the Carved Stone Museum, Maiden’s Tower, Marstal Tower and the Short Leg Gate Tower make up a massive museum complex over 300 metres long. Kiek in de Kök tower is an excellent introduction to the history of Tallinn’s defences. Built 1475 - 1481, the 45-metre, six-storey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IV’s cannonballs embedded in its walls. And where did the tower get its name? Medieval soldiers joked that from its top, they could see right into the kitchens of the houses below - hence the odd name. Legends, secrets and underground tunnels, the Bastion Passages aren’t just for rats any more. Built in the 17th-century by the Swedes to help protect the city, these passages are a fascinating relic of times past. The Carved Stone Museum, housed in the same passages, displays decorative and interesting carved stone fragments, including columns and family crests dating back to the 15th century. Originally erected in 1370-73, the Maiden’s Tower has undergone extensive renovations and it’s been reconnected to the adjacent defence tower, the Marstal Tower. Maiden’s Tower features historical exhibits reflecting these fortifications and the stories that go along with them.QB‑6, Komandandi 2, tel. +372 644 66 86, www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Open 10:00-17:00; Thu 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission €10, reduced €6, family €20. Only towers or only pas‑ sages tickets also available. Y Tallinn City Museum By far, the most modern and complete introduction to Tallinn, City Museum was established in 1937. Appropriately built into a 14th-century merchant house, the Tallinn City Museum houses elaborate displays, with English captions, demonstrating various aspects of Tallinn life through the ages. They also house a depository of porcelain and faience (fine tin-glazed pottery on a delicate pale buff earthenware structure). Until October 4, 2020: ‘Tallinn Cathedral School - the cornerstone of education in Estonia’. Until May, 2021: From stronghold to town - the birth of a Danish town 800 years ago.QC‑4, Vene 17, tel. +372 615 51 80, www.linnamuuseum.ee/linnamuuseum. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €4, family €12. Y 20 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom In the period from 1941 to 1991, Estonia was occupied briefly by Nazi Germany and then for four and a half decades by the USSR. The history of this difficult period comes to life in this modern museum on the edge of Old Town. After extensive renovations, this now, state-ofthe-art museum has reopened with a new permanent exhibition ‘Freedom Without Borders’, which looks at occupations, resistance, restoration, and freedom from five different perspectives: crimes against humanity, Estonians in the free world, life in Soviet Estonia, the restoration of independence, and finally - freedom. The exhibition can be self-explored or guided by an entertaining, e-tour guide, available in seven languages (Estonian, Russian, English, Finnish, German, French, Spanish). The fascinating exhibits are punctuated by personal possessions from those that escaped, lived through or were exiled to Siberia during the occupation – bringing a very human element to the situations they faced and how they coped with them. Their stories are also told here, often in their own words, which truly bring their experiences to life. Vabamu also has a special exhibition tailored for children, where different stories are told for different age groups.QA‑6, Toompea 8, tel. +372 668 02 50, www.vabamu.ee/en. Open 14:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. Admission €11, reduced €7, family €23. Joint ticket with KGB Prison Cells available. Y

OLD THOMAS One of Tallinn’s most recognised and legendary figures, the weathervane Vana Toomas (Old Thomas), can be seen guarding over Old Town from the top of the Town hall tower, rain or shine. Toomas wasn’t always as old as his current name suggests - you see, as a wee peasant lad he won an annual archery contest that was only reserved for the nobility. He expected to get into a fair amount of trouble for winning, as it had never been done by someone of his lowly stature, but his win would not be in ‘vain’ as he was invited to become an apprentice guard. The next few years would see much adventure for our young hero as he performed numerous heroic deeds during the Livonian war and went on to serve Tallinn well past the usual retirement age. At some point later the townsfolk noticed a similarity between the weathervane and their favorite soldier and decided to honor him by giving his name to the vane. He has since become a symbol of the city.QC-2. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Museums When you’ve finished learning about Estonia’s history, there are many speciality museums to explore, many of which are located in the Old Town. Explore every topic, from food and health, to marzipan and music. You are sure to find something interesting for both kids and adults alike. Children’s Museum Miiamilla This hands-on museum just for kids is located in the beautiful Kadriorg Park and is especially geared towards children between the ages of 3 and 11. The playful and often practical exhibits are constantly changing, with active themes so that the little ones are sure to be stimulated to the point of exhaustion - which we’re sure all parents are sure to appreciate.QM‑7, Koidula 21A, tel. +372 601 70 57, www. linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission €4, reduced €2, family €8. Y Estonian Health Museum This fascinating museum is filled with historic health related artefacts, interactive displays and hands-on exhibits. The top floor of the museum certainly contains some of the most interesting displays such as those concerning sexual health and reproduction, addictive substances and a special section highlighting various parasites and bacteria that live inside us or feed from us. Some of the exhibits are certainly a little creepy, but overall it’s quite an educational and thought-provoking experience. Be sure to check out the virtual hairstyle machine where you can send a photo to yourself via e-mail. Other highlights include the ‘dental’ room and collection of gallstones. Un‑ til August 30 a temporary exhibition ‘I, super organism’ is on display.QC‑4, Lai 30, tel. +372 505 68 62/+372 511 17 32, www.tervishoiumuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Wed 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission €8, reduced €5, family €18. Y Estonian Maritime Museum - Fat Margaret After two years of renovation, the Estonian Maritime Museum has finally reopened. The new fascinating permanent exhibition includes a 700 year old shipwreck, something which you certainly won’t see anywhere else. The shipwreck, otherwise known as the cog, was discovered together with almost 800 artefacts back in 2015 in Tallinn. With plenty of interactive parts to exhibition, both young and old can learn about Estonian seafaring from medieval to modern times. The museum is also accessible to those with disabilities, including those who are visually or hearing impaired. The Fat Margaret Tower is the first Old Town tower to have a lift. After a visit to the Estonian Maritime Museum, be sure to continue on to the Seaplane Harbour where you can learn about 20th century maritime equipment. Audioguide available in 6 languages.QD‑3, Pikk 70, tel. +372 620 05 50/+372 673 30 92, www. meremuuseum.ee/paksmargareeta. Open 10:00-19:00. Admission €10, reduced €5, family €20. Children up to 8 years free of charge. Joint ticket with Seaplane Harbour available. Y facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Estonian Maritime Museum - Seaplane Harbour The highly interactive Seaplane Harbour, literally, has ‘tonnes’ of reasons why it’s the most popular museum in Estonia. This modern museum is housed in architecturally unique seaplane hangar, which includes structures that were part of the Peter the Great Naval Fortress between 1916-1917. The authentic submarine Lembit from the 1930s, the century-old steam-powered icebreaker Suur Tõll at the marina, the world’s only copy of Short 184 seaplane and many other life-sized exhibits are on display here. You’ll get a chance to take part in maritime history, as well as interact with many hands-on exhibits. Audio guide in 10 languages available. Temporary exhibition ‘1944 - THE GREAT ESCAPE’ is on display until January 17, 2021. It is an audio-visual exhibition about twists of fate and escaping across the sea, connecting intriguing stories of people who set sail from different parts of Estonia in a dash for freedom. Until Au‑ gust 30 a video installation ‘Time Flies over Harbours’ will take visitor on an audio-visual flight over Estonian harbours. The exhibition celebrates the 85th anniversary of the Estonian Maritime Museum. QJ‑6, Vesilennuki 6, tel. +372 620 05 50/+372 620 05 45, www.meremuuseum.ee/ lennusadam. Open 10:00-19:00. Ticket €15, reduced €8, family €30. Children up to 8 years free of charge. Joint ticket with Fat Margaret available. Y Estonian Museum of Natural History All your favourite taxidermic Estonian, and a few foreign, animals (not to mention dried plants and molluscs) are on display in this renovated three-storey museum designed to introduce nature to entire family. The permanent exhibition ‘Estonian Mires’ gives a brief overview of the origin and life of the mires, and looks different types of bogs and their importance. Don’t miss the chance to embark on a virtual reality adventure and use their AR app to see nature like never before. English language audio guides are available and a small museum shop selling natural Estonian souvenirs is open on the first floor. Until September 30, 2021 a temporary exhibition ‘Terribly adorable bats’ is on display.QC‑3, Lai 29a, tel. +372 641 17 39, www.loodusmuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-19:00. Admission €10, reduced €6, family €22. A joint family ticket for Tallinn Zoo, Estonian Mu‑ seum of Natural History and Tallinn Botanic Garden is €35 and it may be used on separate days. Y

Estonian Museum of Natural History

Summer 2020

Sightseeing people. The exhibition teaches you how to experience space and grasp the essence of architecture. Located in the basement level of the museum, the exhibition offers different experiences for the senses, inviting everyone to smell and touch architecture and experience it with their whole body. Until July 26: Miracles in Concrete. Structural Engineer August Komendant. Until November 8: Urbatect in the Obscure World. Architectural comics by François Schuiten & Benoît Peeters.QE‑3, Ahtri 2, tel. +372 625 70 07, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €4, family €12. Y Estonian Theatre and Music Museum

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum After extensive renovations, the Estonian Theatre and Music Museum is open with a permanent exhibition ‘Stories and Songs’. Stories and songs play an important role in every culture; they unite people and preserve our history. The museum tells the story of Estonian history using classic Estonian literature and songs, while at the same time looking at music and theatre in the context of late 19th century education, village life, Estonian independence in 1918, Baltic German power, the church, the Soviet period, and childhood. ‘Stories and Songs’ received the Annual Award of Estonian Museums for Best Permanent Exhibition of 2017. There is also plenty of things to entertain the little ones, like instruments to play and costumes to try on. On the top floor, there is also an attic where children can play until their parents delve into extensive information on the screens. Until November 11 a temporary exhibition ‘VELJO TORMIS – A World Born Of Folk Song’ is on display to celebrate Veljo Tormis’ 90th anniversary. Exhibition mainly focuses on his works based on runic songs.QC‑6, Müürivahe 12, tel. +372 696 86 88, www. ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €3, family €12. English language tour available for €30. Y Museum of Estonian Architecture Tallinn’s architecture museum is located in the port area and housed in the restored Rotermann Salt Storage building, itself an architectural curiosity. The permanent exhibit on the main floor features architectural models from the museum’s collection. ‘SPACE IN MOTION: A Century of Estonian Architecture’ exhibition, acquaints visitors with the development of professional Estonian spatial and architectural culture. It encompasses the most important segments of 20th century Estonian architectural history, as well as the more intriguing aspects of contemporary design. A second permanent exhibition ‘Explore Space!’ is geared toward children and young

Museum of Estonian Architecture

Museum of Puppetry Arts Look behind the scenes of the fascinating world of puppetry. This interactive museum is fun and educational for the whole family. Visitors can try their hand at being an actor, director, artist, or stage master. Exhibitions feature masks, stage sets, costumes, props, and puppets of all shapes and sizes. Step 50 years back in time and watch old performances and meet the people who used to work at the Puppet Theatre using the Time Machine. Performances can be enjoyed in the Ferdinand Hall from September to June. QB‑4, Nunne 4, tel. +372 667 95 42, www.eestinoorsooteater.ee. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8, reduced €5, family €20. Booking of games, workshops and guided tours for groups should be done at least seven days in advance. Y

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app Museum of Puppetry Arts

22 Tallinn In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing Outdoor attractions Summer is the best time for visiting Tallinn’s biggest outdoor attractions. Tallinn Zoo and Estonian Open Air Museum are both located in Rocca-al-Mare district. Please turn to Pirita section (p.26) for Tallinn Botanical Garden. Estonian Open Air Museum Put on your hiking boots! This outdoor museum includes a whopping 70 buildings, mostly farm-related, sprawled out across 70ha of forest and land in Rocca al Mare, on the shore of the Kopli Gulf. There are even a couple of windmills, some sheep, pigs, chickens, and you can also take a ride on the horse-drawn waggon or sleigh - depending on the weather. Informative signs in Estonian, Russian, English and German guide you through 150 years of farming history. Sample the pea soup and other traditional and hearty foods at the Kolu Inn (Kolu Kőrts). Take bus N°21 or 21b from the Viru stop to the Rocca al Mare stop.QF‑7, Vabaőhumuuseumi tee 12, tel. +372 654 91 00/+372 654 91 01, www.evm.ee. Open 10:00-20:00. Admission €10, reduced €7, family €20. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is €26, and it may be used on separate days. Y Tallinn Zoo Tallinn Zoo boasts one of the most impressive collections of exotic species in Northern Europe. In addition to extensive outside exhibits including birds of prey, lynxes and grey seals, you can check out the Pachyderm house, which also features loads of snakes and a couple of pigmy hippos, or duck into the steamy, crocodile and chimp-filled Tropical House. The Amur leopards are also must-sees as they are critically endangered - Tallinn Zoo is a very important and successful part of their international breeding program. The Zoo also features a Polarium that provides a spacious home for two polar bears. Environmental Education Centre and Children’s Zoo can be found near the west gate at Ehitajate tee 150. By public transport it is easiest to enter through the north gate at Paldiski tee 145, just take bus N°21, 21b, 22, 41, 41b or 42 from city centre to the Zoo stop.QG‑9, Paldiski mnt. 145, tel. +372 694 33 00, www. tallinnzoo.ee. Ticket office is open 09:00 - 18:00. Indoor expositions (Tropical house, Pachyderm house) 10:00 19:00, closed Mon. Children´s Zoo is open daily 10:00 - 19:00. You are allowed to wander the zoo 2 hours af‑ ter the ticket office closes. Admission €8, reduced €5, family €20. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is €26, and it may be used on sepa‑ rate days. A joint family ticket for Tallinn Zoo, Estonian Museum of Natural History and Tallinn Botanic Garden is €35 and it may be used on separate days. Y facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Town Fortifications With 66 towers, medieval Tallinn was known as ‘one of the most fortified burgs in all Northern Europe’. Today 1.85km of the original city wall and 26 towers survive and several of them are open to the public. Epping Tower The tower features an interactive exhibition that walks the visitor through the history and development of medieval defence systems. On display are items pertaining to the towers’ history, including suits of armour and complete maps of how the town looked during the 15th-century. Make sure you climb all the way to the top, the view of Old Town is pretty cool.QC‑3, Laboratooriumi 31, tel. +372 601 30 01, www.epping.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Wed. Admission €6, reduced €4. Y Fat Margaret’s Tower Originally constructed in the 14th century and arguably one of the top sights in the city, Paks Margareta as she is known to locals, is 82m in diameter and boasts 5m thick walls. At one point, Tallinn’s harbour was just outside the Great Coastal Gate and she certainly provided a formidable defence against any hostile forces trying enter the city here. The tower currently houses the Estonian Maritime Museum, see museum entry for details.QC‑3, Pikk 70. Y Hellemann Tower The three-storey tower, which stands adjacent Müürivahe street next to knit market, dates back to the 14th century and at different times was used as a prison and a weapons store. For small entrance fee you can have a look at the inside of the tower and have a chance to walk along a section of the original town wall to Munkadetagune Tower, where you’ll get a pigeons-eye view of Old Town.QD‑5, Müürivahe 48, www.tower.ee. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Tue. Admission €4. Y Nunne, Sauna and Kuldjala Towers Three of the oldest towers are open to the public, entrance at this spot. Tour hours may vary. Call ahead to make sure they are open.QB‑4, Väike-Kloostri 1, tel. +372 644 98 67, www.kodulinnamaja.ee. Open 11:00-18:00. Admis‑ sion €2. Y Viru Gates The main entrance into Old Town is marked by these beautiful twin gate towers, which are only a fraction of a previous gate structure. The gate entrance was composed of a large tower, walls and the existing two towers. Unfortunately the larger inner gate towers were destroyed, but if you close your eyes we’re sure that you can picture what they would have looked like.QD‑5. Summer 2020

Sightseeing - Kadriorg & Pirita

Kadriorg Palace and Art Museum.

Kadriorg area Just a short westerly hike along Narva mnt. brings you to one of the most beautiful districts in all of Tallinn. Kadriorg is home to magnificent parks and gardens, the Presidential Palace and several art museums. Trams N°1 and 3 will also get you there. Once you’ve arrived, nearly everything you want to see is located conveniently on, or just next to, the same short stretch of Weizenbergi. The park also has its own info kiosk located at Weizenbergi 33 across from the Swan Pond. Kadriorg Park A visit to Kadriorg Park is a must on any trip to Tallinn, no matter the time of year. The park was established in 1718 as part of the Kadriorg Palace estate, but has always been open to the public, attracting anyone to enjoy a casual stroll and ponder life. The most visited spot in the park is the beautifully renovated Swan Pond, an artificial, rectangular pond with a picturesque gazebo in the middle, which looks like something out of a Chekhov play. Uphill from here you’ll find another fountain area and then the Kumu art museum. Many of the palace’s auxiliary buildings are also nearby. The kitchen building, opposite the palace gates, houses the Mikkel Museum. The Youth Park, a children’s playground, was first built in 1936-37 by the State Parks Agency and headed by Peeter Päts, brother of the Head of State Konstantin Päts. Innovative for its time, it was a place where children could swim and play and learn. Though many of the original outbuildings and pools have been demolished over the years, the main building was renovated in 2009 and now houses the interactive children’s museum Miiamilla. In 2011, a Japanese garden designed by Japan’s renowned landscape designer Masao Sone was added to the northeast corner of the park. The plants were carefully chosen to suit Estonia’s cold climate, including different 24 Tallinn In Your Pocket

cherry trees, rhododendrons, irises and orrises. The rhododendron garden is the largest of its kind in the region. When the park was first established, one of the first projects was the construction of the Lower Garden and the canals in front of the palace. This complex area of the park was a maze of avenues, paths, gazebos, hedges and flower beds. After the death of Peter the Great in 1725, the work slowed down and the Lower Garden eventually grew into a semi-wild parkland. In 2012, the canal around the garden was rebuilt and the walkways by the channel were renovated in 2013-14. The Upper Garden, in contrast, is a sort of extension of the interior of the palace to the outdoors. The great doors of the main hall led directly into the ornate garden. The oak tree, planted by King Gustav V during his visit in 1929 can still be seen in the Upper Garden. The current Baroque flower garden was restored according to 18th century drawings. Unfortunately the Mirage Pond, once located on the upper terrace was filled in the late 1930s during the construction of the President’s administrative building. A rosarium now sits in its place. Rose Hill boasts 32 varieties of over 6000 roses. The roses have been picked to bloom twice a year and last until the first frost. It is the largest rosarium in Estonia.QM‑7, www. kadriorupark.ee.

Swan pond

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Sightseeing - Kadriorg & Pirita

Western European and Russian art at the Kadriorg Art Museum

WELCOME! Weizenbergi 37 Tallinn, Estonia

Opening hours Tue, Thu–Sun 10 am – 6 pm; Wed 10 am – 8 pm Mon closed

A LEX EY B OG OLY U B OV P OR T OF T A LLI NN. DET A I L. 1 853 A RT M U SEU M OF EST ONI A

Kadriorg Palace and Art Museum Italian master architect Niccolo Michetti designed this magnificent, Northern Baroque palace in 1718 at the request of Russian Tsar Peter the Great, who intended to use it as a summer residence for the royal family. The emperor named the estate for his wife Catherine I (‘Catherine’ is ‘Kadri’ in Estonian), hence the name of the area. The palace is now home to the Kadriorg Art Museum. In addition to perusing the nation’s collection of foreign art, visitors get to see the mind-bogglingly ornate Great Hall, and the room upstairs that served as president’s office in the 1930s. Don’t miss the lavish manicured gardens, out back. Until September 6: A Visit. A Selection of Works from the Collection of Johannes Mikkel. QM‑7, Weizen‑ bergi 37, tel. +372 606 64 00, www.kadriorumuuseum. ekm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Wed 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission €8, reduced €6, family €16. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y

better view and, if your timing is lucky, you’ll see the honour guards marching out front.QM‑7, Weizenbergi 39.

Presidential Palace For a few years during Estonia’s first period of independence (1918 - 1940), the Estonian head of state worked out of the Kadriorg Palace, but in 1938, this purpose-built presidential palace was opened next to it, just up the hill. The Presidential Palace’s style echoes the Kadriorg, albeit without quite so much flourish. Since the building once again serves as the President’s office and residence, it’s closed to visitors, but you can still wander into the parking area for a

Peter the Great House Museum This humble little cottage’s claim to fame is that this was where Russian Tsar Peter the Great stayed during his visits to Tallinn before his Kadriorg Palace was complete. In fact it’s still filled with Peter’s furniture, portraits and other artefacts from his interesting life.QM‑7, Mäekalda 2, tel. +372 601 31 36, www.linnamuuseum.ee/peetrimaja. Open 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admis‑ sion €5, reduced €4, family €12. Y

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Kadriorg Park Information Point Looking for a bit more info on the beautiful gardens at Kadriorg Park? Visit the information point to find out about upcoming events or buy a couple of postcards and other souvenirs to take home. QM‑7, Weizenbergi 33, tel. +372 601 57 83, www.kadriorupark.ee. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Tue, Mon. Adamson-Eric Museum The permanent collection of works by the world-renowned artist Adamson-Eric (1902 - 1968) is housed in a 16th-century in Old Town. Affiliated with The Art Museum of Estonia. Until October 25: Olev Subbi: Using Paint to Find an Ideal World.QB‑5, Lühike jalg 3, tel. +372 644 58 38, www.adamson-eric.ekm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission €7, reduced €5, family €14. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y

Summer 2020

Sightseeing - Kadriorg & Pirita

Classics of Estonian art at the Kumu Art Museum

WELCOME! Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 Tallinn, Estonia

Opening hours Tue–Wed, Fri–Sun 10 am – 6 pm; Thu 10 am – 8 pm Mon closed

FELIX RANDEL. SUNDAY DETAIL. 1924 ART MUSEUM OF ESTONIA

Kumu Winning the title ‘European Museum of the Year 2008’ , Estonia’s largest art museum makes its home in this enormous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff in Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying treasured works from Estonia’s past, and as a contemporary art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. Until August 9: Vello Vinn: Interreflections. Until September 13: Ando Keskküla. Reality and Technodelics. August 18 - October 4: A Special (State of Emergency) Project: A Dialogue between Flo Kasearu and the Museum.QM‑7, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. +372 602 60 00, www.kumu.ekm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission €10, reduced €7, family €20. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y

russalka monument This striking sculpture of an angel facing out into the sea horizon is a memorial to the 177 men of the Russalka, a Russian military ship that tragically sunk while en route to Helsinki in 1893. Created by famed Estonian sculptor A.H. Adamson, the monument has become a Tallinn landmark and a traditional spot for Russian couples to lay flowers on their wedding day.QG‑6, Across Narva mnt., by the shore.

Mikkel Museum Housed in the renovated kitchen building on the grounds of Kadriorg Palace and Park, the Mikkel Museum has one of Estonia’s most impressive private art collections. Johannes Mikkel donated his vast collection of European, Russian and Chinese paintings, prints, porcelain and icons to the Estonian Art Museum in 1994. Until September 27: A Personal Century: Mart Lepp’s Art Collection.QM‑7, Weizenbergi 28, tel. +372 601 58 44, www.mikkelimuuseum.ekm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Wed 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €4, family €12. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y

A bit further out from Kadriorg is another district that provides an escape from the city’s bustle - Pirita. This historic district is actually within Tallinn city limits, only a 10 15 minute ride from the centre. When most Tallinners think of Pirita, they think of the popular beach (see Leisure section), which can get packed with thousands of bodies on any sunny weekend. But there’s much more to Pirita than sand, surf and peaceful greenery. Getting here is simple. Take bus N°1, 1A, 8, 34A or 38 from the underground stop at the Viru Centre. For the beach, convent or river area, get off at the Pirita stop, which is the first one after you cross the river.

26 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Pirita area

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing - Kadriorg & Pirita Memorial to the Victims of Communism This striking memorial is dedicated to all Estonian people who suffered under the terror inflicted by the Soviet Union. There are two parts to the memorial - ‘Journey’ and ‘Home Garden’. ‘Journey’ consists of name plaques of all the victims. Apple trees and honey bees are the symbols of the ‘Home Garden’, marking a place for the victims yet to be identified. Estonia was occupied by the Soviet Union from June 17, 1940 to August 20, 1991. More than 75,000 Estonians were murdered, imprisoned or deported over this period. Estonia lost one of every five persons from its population of slightly over one million.QN‑5, Pirita tee 78, www.memoriaal.ee/en. Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) Located directly between Kadriorg and Pirita, lies one of Estonia’s most important pieces of real estate, the Song Festival Grounds. In June of 1988 these grounds played host to over 100,000 Estonians who raised their collective voices in songs of freedom that would ultimately lead to Estonia regaining her independence after more than 50 years of Soviet rule. Singing has always had an important place in the hearts of Estonians and the first song festival was held in Tartu back in 1869. Currently a Song Festival happens every couple of years, and still plays a huge part of the national identity. When there isn’t a festival happening, the grounds host numerous other events and concerts. If you’d like to take a peek at the historic grounds and the massive bowl structure where the choirs sing, the park is open to the public without an admission fee during non-event times.QM‑6, Narva mnt. 95, www.lauluvaljak.ee. Tallinn Botanical Garden With the richest collection of live plants in Estonia, the gardens are a well-kept secret. Around 8,000 species are arranged on 123ha of land, with large modern greenhouses where you can find displays of tropical, subtropical and desert plants. Take bus N°34A or 38 to the Kloostrimetsa stop. QQ‑4, Kloostrimetsa tee 52, tel. +372 606 26 66, www. botaanikaaed.ee. Open 10:00-19:00. Admission €5.50, reduced €3, family €10. A joint ticket for the Tallinn Bo‑ tanical Garden and TV Tower is €17. A joint family ticket for Tallinn Zoo, Estonian Museum of Natural History and Tallinn Botanic Garden is €35 and it may be used on sep‑ arate days. See website for further admission info. Y St. Bridget’s Convent ruins Rising up along the banks of the Pirita River, the spectacular ruins of this 15th-century convent make one of Tallinn’s more fascinating historic sights. Founded in 1407 by the Bridgetine Order, the convent was unique in that it housed both monks and nuns. The convent crumbled in a siege by Ivan the Terrible in 1577 and its stones were later carted off to construction projects throughout Tallinn. What remains today are the towering Gothic gable and walls of facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

the main hall, as well as some surrounding foundations and cellars.QO‑4, Kloostri tee 9, tel. +372 58 17 35 60, www.piritaklooster.ee. Tallinn Olympic Yachting Centre The most prominent leftover of Pirita’s Olympic past is its Olympic Yachting Centre, still an active part of life in Pirita. The imposing building itself, built for the 1980 Moscow Olympics, is a fascinating example of Soviet architecture. Nearby you can also see the stand for the Olympic flame, as well as the Olympic rings. A visit to the complex is worthwhile, even if just to stroll along the water, inspect the yachts, and have lunch in one of the outdoor cafés that operates here.QN‑4, Regati pst. 1, www.piritatop.ee. TV Tower Officially opened on July 11th in 1980, the 314m tower was, and is, an imposing example of Soviet engineering. From its observation deck at the 175m level, which is the highest in Northern Europe, you can see Finland on a clear day. The renovated tower features a museum and a swank restaurant ‘Teletorn’. One of the more exciting features include some pretty freaky floor-windows that you’re encouraged to jump on and you can take full advantage of ‘streaking skyward’ in the lightning-fast elevators. From April through October try out the ‘EdgeWalk’ on the deck, which just might possibly be among the most extreme activities you’ve ever done, even though you’re attached to the structure by safety harnesses. A new virtual reality experience will take visitors to the spine-tingling adventure of walking along the edge of the tower’s viewing platform or flying around the tower. Until January 31, 2021, a temporary exhibition ‘GENE-IUS’ looks at everything that makes up modern humans, like genes and DNA and genetic codes and more. Take bus N°34A or 38 from the Viru Keskus bus terminal on Narva mnt. to Teletorn stop. Avoid queues and book tickets in advance: https://pilet.teletorn.ee/teletorn.QQ‑4, Kloostrimetsa 58a, tel. +372 686 30 05, www.teletorn.ee. Open 12:00-19:00. Restaurant open 12:00-21:00, garden café is open 12:00-19:00. Ticket €15, reduced €9, family €31. After 19:00 restaurant admission €3. A joint ticket for the Tallinn Botanical Garden and TV Tower is €17. See website for further admission info. Y

Where to eat Kalev Yacht Club Restaurant A hidden gem in Tallinn, or well Pirita, but nevertheless, it’s worth a journey to the Kalevi Yacht Club. Not only is there a nice view over the marina, the food does not disappoint either. Simple, fresh cuisine that is inspired by European flavours.QN‑4, Pirita tee 17, tel. +372 623 91 58, www. jahtklubiresto.ee. Open 11:00-23:00. €€€. UBIS L6 Summer 2020

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artsy district

Kalamaja Just a short hop from the Balti jaam train station lies the eclectic and historic district of Kalamaja. The area’s name means ‘Fish House’, referring to its fishing past. Colourful wooden houses, funky shops, cool restaurants and bars, all add to the artsy/bohemian vibe of Kalamaja. (see area J-6/7 on the city map)

One of Tallinn’s last remaining ‘wooden house’ and antiquated industrial districts has seen somewhat of a trendy revival as of late, akin to what happened in the Soho districts of New York or London, albeit on a smaller scale. The revival, as with most cases in developed cities of the world, happened thanks to inexpensive real estate prices and the historic/industrial surroundings. First, the ‘hippies’, bohemians, artists and students set up shop and residence here. Now it seems that everyone wants a piece of the action and as a result real estate prices have gone through the roof over the last few years. What was once home to fishermen, sailors, dock-workers, shipbuilders and factory employees now houses boutiques, some great flea markets, high-brow eateries and a few cool nightspots for Tallinn’s hipsters and trend setters. There are in fact still quite a few industrial complexes and sea-oriented businesses operating in the area due to the proximity of the harbours and rail-lines that still skirt these districts. Besides being home to some architectural and often derelict delights, Kalamaja has some interesting sights from the fascinating Patarei Sea Fortress and former prison (read more on p. 17), the now world-famous Estonia Piano Factory (J-6, Kungla 41), the 1928 Jugenstil Kalma Sauna 28 Tallinn In Your Pocket

(A-2, Vana-Kalamaja 9a) and Kalmistu Park (J-6), formerly home to Tallinn’s oldest cemetery, which was unfortunately flattened by the Soviets in 1964 to make way for military complexes. Clues to the park’s original purpose exist only in the form of a plaque and a bell tower from the year 1780. In terms of dining or shopping, one might expect that such an up-and-coming area would be on the pricey side - it’s not. Although quite trendy at the moment, most of the establishments in Kalamaja are much less expensive than those located in Old Town. Hopefully it will stay that way, at least for a little while. Although there are places to eat and shop scattered throughout the district (with new ones opening up every month), the epicentre of the whole Kalamaja frenzy, including shops, boutiques, handi-crafters, a large flea market, eateries and much of the nightlife scene, seems to be headquartered in and around the old Telliskivi factory and warehouse complex - Telliskivi Loomelinnak (Telliskivi Creative City; J-7, Telliskivi 60A, www.telliskivi.eu/en/.). This is probably your best place to start when visiting the district and it’s easily reachable, just around the corner from the far end of the Baltic Jaam market. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artsy district Where to eat Kalamaja has seen a boom in the number of restaurants in recent years. Here you’ll find everything from French to Mexican to modern Estonian bistros. Please refer to the F-Hoone Located in the Telliskivi industrial/warehouse complex and one of the first eateries to set up shop here, F-Hoone is one of those success stories that every wannabe restaurateur dreams of and we rather enjoy it. The food is fresh and usually quite inspired. The atmosphere is certainly industrial and chic, the service attentive and the prices are surprisingly low for the quality and portion size - especially the daily offers. Child-friendly with a decent little play area as well.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/4, tel. +372 53 22 68 55, www. fhoone.ee. Open 09:00-22:00. €€. Fotografiska restaurant Fotografiska truly takes care of all your various senses. Whether you combine your experience with a tour of their iconic photo gallery or merely on its own, their rooftop restaurant is worth every bite. Run by one of Estonia’s top chefs, Peeter Pihel, the eatery is located on the sixth floor of the gallery, and offers great panoramic views of the city. The restaurant’s concept is ‘sustainable pleasure’, which combines top quality dining using sustainable ingredients and a zero waste philosophy. On Sundays you can enjoy brunch from 11:00 - 16:00.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/8, tel. +372 57 45 09 22, www.fotografiska.com/tallinn/en/restaurant/. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Lunch 12:0015:30, drinks & snacks 15:30-18:00, dinner 18:00-23:00. Frenchy This eatery is indeed très French and actually quite stylish, as well as being an affordable option for a delicious and delightfully prepared meal. The menu changes somewhat frequently, but in general the classics always remain. The French onion soup was particularly tasty as were the Parisian gnocchi in an excellent mushroom cream sauce. Naturally the French wines, beers and ciders are all quite well chosen to complement the food.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60A/5, tel. +372 56 04 82 62. Open 12:00-23:30; Mon 17:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; closed Sun. €€. Humalakoda This modern brewpub sits atop the Balti jaam market and boasts one of the best terraces in town, with a brewery inside. With ample local and international brews on tap, and plenty of non-beer choices as well, Humalakoda is a great choice for a casual drink or meal. The menu covers all the pub classics, but with a bit of a twist.QJ‑7, Kopli 1, tel. +372 699 99 60, www.humalakoda.ee. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. Kivi Paber Käärid Rock, Paper, Scissors despite having a quirky name, or perhaps because of it, is a multi-purpose joint which offers up some decent eats alongside some excellent beverages - infacebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

art and entertainment Fotografiska Tallinn Internationally renowned Fotografiska has opened its new location in Telliskivi Creative City. The gallery or meeting place is known for bringing the world’s best photography to its walls, and its Tallinn location is no exception. The aim of this urban meeting place is to redefine the traditional museum space, where visitors are invited to linger and become inspired. Fotografiska includes exhibition and event spaces, a music club, bars (see page 30), café, gift shop, and restaurant (see on p.29). Current exhibitions: until September 13 Bryan Adams ‘Exposed’, until July 19 Tom of Finland ‘The Darkroom’, until August 31 Lina Iris Viktor ‘Dark Testament’, until August 31 Sebastiao Salgado ‘Gold’. Please check their website for upcoming exhibitions.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/8, www.fotografiska.com/Tallinn. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Admission €15, reduced €12, family €28.

cluding a great selection of craft beers and ciders. Housed in a former industrial building, the style and atmosphere are hip and the staff friendly and helpful. The menu is 100% glutenfree and they offer a large selection of vegetarian, lactose and casein-free items as well. We’re pretty sure that much of the beer isn’t gluten-free though - so best stick to the ciders and cocktails if that happens to be an issue for you. Live music and events are also hosted here many weekend nights.QJ‑7, Tel‑ liskivi 60a/7, tel. +372 600 36 26, www.kivipaber.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. €€. Lendav Taldrik Located in the black building towards the end of the Telliskivi Complex, the ‘Flying Saucer’ or ‘Plate’, depending on how you choose to interpret it, is certainly a welcome edition to the area. The interior style is quite excellent - with its rugged good looks, industrial sensibility and just the right amount of comfort, guests here will feel both stylish and at home. The cuisine is kind of an Asian-fusion blend, with definite Indian leanings, and all is certainly tasty to say the least. Decent vegetarian options also available. Fast, friendly service is just a mango on the lassi - so to speak.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/6, tel. +372 621 42 22, www. lendavtaldrik.com. Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:0021:00. €€. Summer 2020

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artsy district Kalamaja Nightlife Kalamaja is undoubtedly the hotspot of Tallinn’s nightlife scene. Popular with locals, expats and increasingly, tourists as well.

Junimperium Distillery Gin bar While you can book a tour at this award-winning distillery, you can also enjoy an evening at their elegant bar. Gin is what’s on the menu here, including some exceptional gin cocktails. Staff are very knowledgeable and friendly. QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60M, www.junimperium.ee. Open Tue, Wed, Thu 17:00-24:00; Fri 17:00-02:00; Sat 15:00-01:00; closed Mon, Sun. Odeon This funky bar simply oozes style and comfort. Think upscale diner, though you wouldn’t find any of this food in your typical diner. Their menu features dishes meant for sharing - we really loved the snacks, like filo wrapped merguez sausage and the nduja scotched egg, as well as truffle parmesan fries. The cocktails are exceptional, especially their selection of gin and tonics. Located a short tram ride towards to Kopli, Odeon is certainly worth the slight detour.QI‑6, Kopli 27, tel. +372 527 27 12, www.odeon.ee. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. Põhjala Tap Room Just a short jaunt from the centre, this pub, set in the revived Noblessner Port area is worth the trip. Ranked among the the top 100 breweries in the world, Põhjala has taken the the local craft beer scene by storm - and tours of the brewery can be booked in advance. The spacious tap room boasts an ever-changing selection of craft beers, ciders, and cocktails. Their bustling kitchen churns out some fantastic BBQ, alongside their own take on some classic American smoke-house fare.QJ‑6, Peetri 5, tel. +372 56 66 28 00, www.pohjalabeer.com/taproom. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Pudel Baar ‘Bottle Bar’ operates under the philosophy that a decent watering hole should stand on the foundation of great beers, ciders, and other quality beverages. Fourteen taps serve top quality ales - and many from local Estonian breweries. Given the name, you’ll also find loads of drinks to choose from in the fridges as well. This bar is located in 30 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Estonia’s first dedicated craft beer bar

· Over 100 craft beers from the worlds best brewers · Full range of Estonian microbrews · Beer flights · English ciders and botanical soft drinks · Relaxed interior with outdoor terrace ·

Telliskivi 60A · (+372) 5866 4496

Fotografiska Rooftop bar & #snäptäpbar They really know how to keep you entertained at Fotografiska! Whether you prefer a view from the top or a street vibe - you can choose to sip a cocktail at their Rooftop bar offering some great vistas of the city, or on the 1st floor #snäptäpbar, perfect for neighborhood mingling. Both venues offer snack menus and treat you to frequent live music events - check their site for a list of upcoming events.QTel‑ liskivi 60a/8, tel. +372 57 45 09 22, www.fotografiska. com/tallinn/en/baar/. Rooftop bar is open Wed - Sat 12:00-01:00. #snäptäpbar is open Wed - Sat 18.00-23:00.

the Telliskivi complex and in keeping with the industrial, atmosphere of the area, is stylish yet industrial in feel. Great terrace in summer (voted one of Tallinn’s finest) for catching rays all day, and night. It can get super busy on weekends, but it’s totally worth a visit.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/5, tel. +372 58 66 44 96, www.pudel.ee. Open Mon, Tue, Wed 16:00-24:00; Thu 16:00-01:00; Fri 16:00-02:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. Shvips Why whine when you can drink wine? This great little wine bar in Kalamaja has a great, quirky yet cosy atmosphere, an excellent selection of wines and prices that make coming here worth it for aficionados and novices alike. Shvips also offers up some nice delicatessen snacks that pair perfectly with many of their wines. A decent selection of other beverages can also be had for those not into fermented grape juice.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 51i, tel. +372 58 22 58 95, www. shvips.ee. Open Tue, Wed 18:00-24:00; Thu 18:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Mon, Sun Vabrik If you think all wine bars are for snobs, the vinoteque Vabrik is proof that they are not. The team at Vabrik are both passionate and knowledgeable about all things wine and can help you find the right bottle by letting you taste it for yourself. Come in for a glass of wine or take part in one of their regular tastings or events.QJ‑6, Vabriku 6, tel. +372 56 99 53 98, www.vabrik.eu. Open 16:30-22:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-22:00; closed Mon, Sun. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Noblessner

Photo: Martin Dremljuga.

Just past the fascinating Seaplane Harbour, and Patarei Sea Fortress, the Noblessner Port area (area J-6 on the map) is quickly continuing the development of the seaside in Kalamaja. The historic submarine shipyard is now home to new apartment blocks, offices, and a growing number of galleries, restaurants, bars and shops.

A fascinating history The Submarine shipyard, named after Emanuel Nobel, nephew of Alfred Nobel, and his business partner Arthur Lessner (hence Noblessner), was built in 1912. A total of 12 modern submarines were built here between 1913 and 1917. Although the production of submarines ceased as Estonia gained its independence in 1918, ship repair and construction continued in the Noblessner area until August 2018. Today, Noblessner has been transformed into a quayside community, open to the public and the sea. It has historical industrial buildings, a seafront promenade, marina and newly developed residential and commercial spaces. Noblessner features cultural events, business, creativity, homes and maritime culture.

Shopping in Noblessner The impressive Shishi store is packed full of inspiring decor for the home. On a smaller, but no less stylish scale, Kalhoj sells Scandinavian-style kitchen and dining room accessories. Treat yourself to jewellery at Baltic Brilliant or pamper yourself at Biomarketi Ilu- ja Tervisetuba, which offers ecological manis, pedis, and facials. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Eating and drinking in Noblessner You’ll find something for every taste and budget at Noblessner, including one of Estonia’s top restaurants (according to the White Guide Nordic). 180° is run by Michelin-starred chef Matthias Diether, so you can expect no less than an unforgettable gastronomic experience (J6, Staapli 4). Craft beer enthusiasts will not want to miss a visit to Põhjala Tap Room (see page 30). For something quick and casual, head to Patarei Burger (J-6, Staapli 3-111). for a satisfying burger, or some of their tasty ‘loaded’ fries. Speaking of loaded, the bottom floor of the Kai Art Centre (see page 10) plays host to a plethora of eateries, bars and cafés. Here you can find the unique Japanese gastro bar Kampai owned and chefed by a master of Japanese cuisine - a sushi bar, grill and a replica street bar complete the experience. Another fantastic eatery located under the same roof is the Nordic-style LORE bistro. Delicious delights and hedonistic pleasures await at Kaif bar. Back to Staapli - the newest addition there is HOGO featuring casual Asian cuisine (J-6, Staapli 3, next to Patarei Burger). And for those looking to stay out a bit later, head to Klubi Hall (J-6, Peetri 6), a nightclub for underground electronic music. But check their Facebook site first to see if they’ve re-opened after the Covid-19 restrictions for nightclubs.

Art and culture in Noblessner Stop in for a good coffee and admire the art at Staapli Art Gallery (see page 60). Kai Art Centre (see page 10), located in the waterfront old factory building is home to a stunning exhibition space, auditorium, and several eateries. PROTO Invention Factory (see page 33) is where virtual reality brings history alive. Summer 2020

Leisure

Super Skypark - where the fun never ends! (see page 33)

Apart from the usual, boring sightseeing tours there are loads of other activities available in Tallinn. And as Tallinn has increasingly become a destination for families, we list plenty of things to do and see that will intrigue both young and old alike - for the tourist it can be a bit of a chore to figure out just where best to take the kids and what activities will keep them occupied.

Bowling & Billiards

Entertainment venues From golfing to bowling to shooting, we list a plethora of hands-on activities for the more adventurous tourists to enjoy. Some activities may even result in the loss of hands, but most of those types of adventures require that you sign a waiver and naturally Tallinn In Your Pocket cannot be held liable if you do lose a limb.

Hill Hill Billiard Located in the trendy Kalamaja/Telliskivi area, Hill Hill Billiard has become a favourite among locals. The spacious billiard hall offers plenty of entertainment with billiards, darts, snooker, pinball and air hockey, as well as a few other table games. Prices are reasonable and darts are free. There is a weekly HCP tournament on Mondays, with plenty of other events taking place each month. Check their Facebook page for more details.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 57, tel. +372 511 91 72. Open 14:00 - 24:00. Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00.

Energy Discovery Centre Based in a renovated, over 100-year-old power plant building just opposite Old Town and the first of its kind in the Baltics, the Energy Discovery Centre is the place to discover science with a hands-on approach. The building houses unique historic devices and more than 130 hands-on exhibits dealing with themes such as electricity, magnetics nuclear energy, sound and optics. Perhaps one of the coolest exhibits will actually allow the visitor to experience ‘lighting’ - up close and personal, via the Tesla Coil. They also have a virtual planetarium, temporary exhibitions, interesting theatre programmes and some great workshops (theatre and workshops are available for groups, pre-booking is a must).QC‑2, Põhja pst. 29, tel. +372 620 90 20, www.energiakeskus.ee. Open 12:00-18:00. Admission €9, reduced €7, family €25. Y

Kuulsaal This ultra-modern, ultra-cool, two-storey club offers the closest bowling to Old Town. Try their blacklight system for a cosmic effect. 12 lanes €16 - 26/hr. They also offer seven pool tables for €6 - 8 per hour.QD‑4, Mere pst. 6, tel. +372 661 66 82, www.kuulsaal.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Also at: Sõpruse pst. 15, Viimsi, tel. +372 605 11 01, viimsi@kuulsaal.ee. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Fri 14:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

Park Minigolf As the biggest minigolf centre in the Nordics, Park Minigolf offers indoor minigolf all year round. Choose between two courses: the Park Course and the Wild Wild West Saloon. The Park Course has 16 holes and is fun for everyone. The Wild Wild West Saloon is meant for more advanced players. Take a break from shopping. Grab a putter and a beverage and play a quick round with your friends! QK‑7, Ahtri 9 (Nautica), tel. +372 632 00 30, www.parkminigolf.ee. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00.

Club147 This club has 6 snooker and 4 pool tables, highly comfortable atmosphere with lounge and bar. Games €8 - 15/ hr. QL‑7, Kunderi 8a / Tartu mnt. 33, tel. +372 515 08 58, www.club147.ee. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00.

32 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Leisure Pirita Adventure Park Pirita Adventure Park has 8 different trails. Trails run along the seaside and in the forest, with a special kids park with two trails suitable for 2-6-year-olds. Night climbs are available in August. From the beach trail, there are wonderful views to the sea and to the Old Town towers. The thrill awaits!QO‑4, Merivälja tee 5A, tel. +372 510 13 10, www. piritaseikluspark.ee. Open 14:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:0019:00. In July open 10:00-20:00, in August open 12:0019:00, in September open Sat - Sun 12:00-17:00. Adult single ticket €23, children depending from age €8 - 19. PROTO Invention Factory This Tsarist-era submarine factory in the revitalised Noblessner Port area (read more on page 29), is the perfect backdrop for this science museum/virtual reality/invention theme park. With numerous, hands-on, VR goggles-on, mind-blowing main exhibits, numerous smaller attractions and more information than an average brain can handle - Proto is both educational, yet loads of fun, all packed into one very cool space. There’s truly something for every age group to enjoy. Both the young and the young-at-heart, will be inspired and thrilled by this Jules Verne, meets Da Vinci, meets “The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassus”, Nikola Tesla-esque museum. Their excellent on-site café will also help replenish your mind and body throughout the adventure.QJ‑6, Peetri 10, tel. +372 627 66 61, www.prototehas.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €14, reduced €8, family €32. Y

Proto Invention Factory

Super Skypark Located at the top of Tallinn’s newest shopping/lifestyle/ experience centre T1, Super Skypark is actually rather super. The largest entertainment facility of its kind in the region, and featuring the largest trampoline area in Europe – it’s a paradise for the young, and the young at heart. Bumper cars, a 360° cinema, a 7D cinema, the SkyLab mini science centre, the unique in Europe - rooftop ferris wheel (see Sightseeing section), a relaxing 21+ chill-out lounge just for adults, a café, an eatery, 17 party rooms for kids’ birthday celebrations … your youngsters will forget all about their screens for a good while. Climbing, sliding, jumping, running, crawling, exploring and learning – did we mention this place is super? It’s also facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

beaches

Tallinn has five official beaches and a handful of others that dot the coastline. Here are two that are closest to the centre. While we give directions how to get to all of these beaches using public transport, on a nice day it’s just as easy to take a bicycle or roller-blades using the city’s network of paths. Under each entry we also have a website listed so you can check the current conditions. Beach season officially begins on June 1st in Estonia, warmer days in May though will find many locals already getting a head-start on their tans, but the water won’t be warm enough to swim in - for ‘normal’ people. August 31st is the official end of beach season ie. they will no longer have lifeguards or other facilities such as vendors. That doesn’t mean that you still can’t go for a swim though and the water often stays warmish well into September. Pirita Beach Without a doubt, Pirita’s star attraction is its 3km-long, white sand beach. All the usual tanning, flirting, volleyball and other activity you’d find at any beach in the world you’ll find here too. But Pirita’s beach also has an extensive park that fills the area between the highway and the beach itself. This densely forested area is criss-crossed by paved trails (perfect for biking and roller-skating), and dotted with benches and children’s playgrounds. To get here take bus No 1, 1A, 8, 34A, or 38 from the underground Viru Centre bus terminal. Get off at the Pirita stop, which is the first one after you cross the river.QN/O‑4, www.g4s.ee/beaches/pirita-beach. Stroomi Beach The second most popular beach, due to its size and proximity to the centre, Stroomi has a cafeteria, toilets, volleyball nets and beach chairs for rent, as well as a huge outdoor play-park for the kids. Due to its proximity to an industrial port, its not quite as scenic as some of the others, but that doesn’t seem to bother the masses who show up here on a hot summer day. To get here take bus number 40 from the underground Viru Centre bus terminal and get off at the Supelranna stop.QH-6/7, www.g4s.ee/beaches/stroomi-beach. Summer 2020

Leisure

NEWLY RENOVATED

KALEV SPA HOTEL & WATER PARK Aia 18/ Kanuti 2,10111 Tallinn www.kalevspa.ee kalevspa@kalevspa.ee

exceptionally easy to get to, taking tram N°4 to Ülemiste jaam stop either from the city center or the airport. QM‑8, Peterburi tee 2 (T1 Mall of Tallinn), tel. +372 656 51 15, www.superskypark.ee. Open 10:00-22:00. SkyLab and shop open 11:00 - 21:00. Daily pass €10, evening pass €5, family €28. Free entrance for up to two accompanying adults who don’t use the attrac‑ tions. SkyLab’s daily pass €5, family €18. See website for more admission info. Y

Spa & Beauty You don’t have to go far to find pure relaxation and pampering in Tallinn. There are many great spas and salons right here in town, where you will find everything from beauty treatments to saunas. Go ahead, indulge a little. Aurea Ayurveda Health Centre Aurea is an Ayurveda and massage studio located in the heart of the city where you can come to restore your body’s natural balance with over 20 different types of massage and 10 different types of therapy.QK‑7, Narva mnt. 7d, tel. +372 669 67 73, www.aurea.ee. Open 10:0019:00; closed Sat, Sun.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app 34 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Kalev Spa Health & Beauty Centre Pamper yourself at this health and wellness centre, which offers a wide range of health and beauty services. Their friendly, experienced and highly trained staff use only the best products and equipment. Choose from a long list of services and indulge in a treatment for your hands, feet, face, or whole body. The centre also offers a variety of rehabilitative and body-strengthening services, including appointments with nurses, localised cold and heat therapy, a salt chamber, light therapy, and ECGs.QD‑4, Aia 18, tel. +372 649 33 50, www.kalevspa.ee. Open 12:0019:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Kalev Spa Water Park Kalev Spa has one of the largest indoor water parks in Estonia, as well as the only 50-meter pool in the city. The newly renovated water park includes four slides, children pools, a massage pool, and saunas. The Sauna-Oasis is the newest addition to the complex and is for adults only. Here you can relax in peace and quiet in different jacuzzis and saunas. The fitness centre offers different group workouts and a spacious gym with a view of the pool. You can also book a private sauna with Jacuzzi and private access to the water park (for up to 15 persons).QD‑4, Aia 18, tel. +372 649 33 70, www.kalevspa.ee/veekeskus. Open 12:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. For a daily visit, the price for adults is €12, reduced €3 and a family ticket (2 adults plus up to 3 children) is €39 (prices valid till end of August). tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Have you got a craving? Head to Allee! Read more on page 37. In Tallinn it seems they grant a new restaurant licence every week and sometimes we do miss one, but we’ve tried our best to make recommendations. Service in restaurants is improving for the better, but it’s still not perfect. Due to the popularity of food delivery apps, like Bolt Food and Wolt, waiting times may be longer than usual, even if the restaurant appears to be empty. In pubs, you’ll likely need to order and pay at the bar. Service in the centre is nearly always English-speaking and foreign-language menus are the rule - although, the words may not always be spelled correctly. VAT (20%) is always included and a gratuity should never be added to the bill. Please check Kalamaja section on page 28 for more area specific restaurants listings.

Fine dining Looking for a romantic night out or a truly exquisite dining experience? These places are worth the splurge. Gloria Gloria has been synonymous with class and style since it opened in 1937, and once you get a look at the intricate, pre-war interior, you’ll understand why this was the restaurant of choice for the Pope and several visiting heads of state. In case you need more convincing, Condé Nast named Gloria one of the world’s 100 best. We found our meal here a relaxing, well-orchistrated experience.QC‑6, Müürivahe 2, tel. +372 640 68 00, www.gloria.ee. Open 17:30-23:30; closed Sun. €€€. SJ Nero The best way to describe restaurant Nero is to say “modern classic”. In developing the á la carte menu, chef Virgo Lillepool has orchestrated his team to create the world’s classic culinary pearls in their own key, offering guests joy both in discovery and recognition. The 175-seat restaurant facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

SYMBOL key T Child-friendly

J Old Town location

6 Pets allowed

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking area

S Take-away

V Home delivery

L Free parking

P Air-conditioning

W WiFi

Y Partner of Tallinn Card

with its easy-to-move furniture, modern sound and video system, built-in stage and dance floor is the perfect place for events such as receptions, weddings, company parties and more. They also serve tasty breakfast and every Sunday welcome you to brunch.QE‑2, Sadama 11a, tel. +372 630 10 18, www.tallinkhotels.com/tallink-spaconference-hotel/restaurant-bar-nero. Open 18:0023:00. €€€€. PUEW ORE Located in a stunning Old Town location with high arched stone ceilings, the atmosphere at ORE is intimate in the large dining hall. This is a meal you want to save for when you truly want to indulge. Start with a few of the “snacks” to whet the appetite and then move through the courses. The pan-fried veal sweetbreads are divine (if you’re into that sort of thing), and the hangar steak with onion-liquorice cream is a real treat. Vegetarians won’t be disappointed either with the selection of veggie dishes.QC‑3, Olevimägi 9, tel. +372 611 72 90, www.orerestoran.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. €€€. BJ6 Summer 2020

Restaurants price guide Based on the average price of a main course. €

Up to 7 euros

€€€ 14 - 19 euros

€€

8 - 13 euros

€€€€ Over 20 euros

Estonian Open Su-Th 13:00-22:00 Fr-Sat 13-23:00 Raekoja plats 17 (Town Hall Square 17)

+372 615 5400

www.kaerajaan.ee

Stenhus Restaurant is situated in Tallinn's Old Town at the 5* Schlössle Hotel, offering a unique gastronomic experience since 1998. Executive chef Timofei Monahhov uses locally sourced organic products, and with them, creates the unique flavours of Estonia found only at Stenhus!

Schlössle Hotel, Restaurant Stenhus, Pühavaimu 13/15, Tallinn Tel. +372 699 7780, www.stenhusrestaurant.ee

36 Tallinn In Your Pocket

There are two classes of ‘Estonian’ restaurants - new Estonian cuisine and traditional. The traditional fare consists of a lot of heavy pork dishes, herring and potatoes, sauerkraut, etc. The new cuisine is usually a fusion of traditional and international cuisines along with the chef’s own vision of what Estonian cuisine should be. These eateries use primarily fresh, local and often organic ingredients wherever possible. Both have their own merits - the traditional cuisine will leave your belly warm and full and the new will usually be more of a feast for your senses. Farm Looking into the window of this eatery you might kind of wonder what on earth is happening here. A table all set up with a wild boar and wolf eating dinner enjoying wine, they are surrounded by their friends Mrs Fox and Mr Raven. Certainly a scene not likely witnessed before - but also something that begs you to at least have a peek inside. The elaborate restaurant is all decked out with bird-cage chandeliers and rustic elements mixed with a certain amount of elegance. The open kitchen allows you to see the chefs at work preparing some delicious meals - add to it some great artisan breads and their own craft-beers and the whole thing comes together quite nicely.QC‑5, Müürivahe 27B, tel. +372 517 32 61, www.restaurant.farm. Open 14:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. PUBISJW Kaerajaan Named after a popular national folk dance, this is an Estonian-themed restaurant with a modern twist. It consists of a café on the main floor and a slightly more formal restaurant in the top floor. You won’t find any of the traditional, national dishes on the menu, however you will be pleased to discover many Estonian ingredients sporting an haute cuisine style. Check out the upstairs toilet for a truly architectural experience. QC‑5, Raekoja plats 17, tel. +372 615 54 00, www. kaerajaan.ee. Open 13:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00-23:00. €€€. PT B S J 6 W Stenhus Restaurant Schlössle Hotel’s restaurant is a combination of old world elegance and modern style, rolled into an Estonian dining experience. The menu focuses on the perfect balance between food and fine art, and the creative flair of head chef Timofei Monahhov truly shines. With produce and foods, up to 90% of which are farmed, fished or to be found throughout Estonia tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Pikk 71 / Tolli 2 +372 630 63 55 www.soerestoran.ee or her waters - the Stenhus team of culinary artists are able to turn the most mundane or misunderstood ingredients into delicious, edible works of art. The results are a feast for the eyes and the palate. Be sure to explore the divine courtyard - weather, and season permitting. QC‑4, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. +372 699 77 80, www. stenhusrestaurant.ee. Open 13:00-22:00. Breakfast 07:00 - 10:30. €€€. PX B I S J 6 Wi

SÖE

befittingly elegant - modern and bright, and leaves guests feeling comfortable dressed to the nines, or dressed down. Eating here is not so much about satisfying ones hunger, it’s an adventure for all five senses.QC‑3, Pikk 71/ Tolli 2, tel. +372 630 63 55, www.soerestoran.ee. Open 12:0015:00;17:00-22:30. Breakfast buffet (€22) 07:00 - 12:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. €€€€. PUBJWi

Being a northern country, the Estonian restaurant scene has certainly been influenced by the New Nordic and Nordic Islands’ cuisine. Local ingredients are used, when possible, but each menu reflects the chef’s own vision and interpretation of the movement, leaving the diner with a true feast for the senses.

Von Krahli Aed If you’re looking to please many diners with diverse diets, Von Krahli Aed is the place to come. Located in a cosy and romantic medieval building in the Old Town, the “Garden” is a not a vegetarian restaurant, but the focus of the menu is certainly on vegetables. Ingredients are local and organic, including the wines. Service is always friendly and attentive. We’ll certainly be back again. QB‑5, Rataskaevu 8, tel. +372 58 59 38 39, www.restoranaed.ee. Open 12:00-23:00. €€. BSVJ6W

SÖE Set in the historic Three Sisters Hotel, this fine-dining establishment brings Nordic/Nouveau Estonian cuisine to the next level. Owned and operated by a decorated young chef, and a high energy, well-credentialed sparkle of a human being - their combined attention to detail and commitment to perfection is admirable. ‘Coal’ offers up wonderfully prepared cuisine inspired by the Estonian nature, the fresh local ingredients are truly satisfying and appreciated. Head chef Pavel Gurjanov, his excellent team, their love for food, and all the elements that go into executing and presenting their masterful dishes is quite evident. The ambience is also

Von Krahli Aed

Stenhus

New Nordic

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Summer 2020

Restaurants decent destination for homesick Yanks.QC‑4, Pikk 43, tel. +372 631 17 55, www.texas.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. €€€. BISJ6W

Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina

Asian Sometimes you just want a bit of spice! Tallinn’s palate has really come a long way and here you’ll find a great mix of Chinese,Indian, Thai, and everything in between.

American Burgers, Buffalo wings, ribs, BBQ, nachos - whatever your favourite American dish is, chances are you'll find it at one of these places. Now, if only someone would open a proper diner... Route 33 Grill This American-style restaurant/night-spot is certainly aiming to become the best eatery in its class in Tallinn. We’ve actually had some good conversations with the owners and they’re quite committed to getting everything just right in order to make this the best ‘American-style’ locale in Estonia. From what we’ve experienced so far, ‘Route 33’ just might become a lucky number. We quite enjoyed their burger last time we stopped by and the wings had just the right amount of bite.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 13, tel. +372 680 76 17. Open 11:00-05:00. €€. XBJW Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina Beer ads, steer horns, cactus and rowdy conversation - this bar screams ‘Texas’ so loud you might think you’ve walked into one of those old roadhouse movies. Thankfully the ambience is more rock and blues than twangy two-step. The long menu is mostly U.S. -style Tex-Mex (nachos, quesadillas, etc) with other things like hot wings and a decent selection of vegetarian items thrown in. Not all dishes are as authentic as the Alamo, but enough are to make this a 38 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Chakra If there’s one thing you should know about Chakra, it’s that the people who envisioned it have a long and successful history bringing innovation and quality to the local dining scene. The atmosphere comes complete with authentic, often naughty, knick-knacks from India. The food is prepared with care, using top-notch ingredients and recipes, some of which only the best chefs from the home country can pull off. In short, we think that it probably won’t be the last time we’ll dine here.QC‑4, Bremeni käik 1, tel. +372 641 26 15, www.chakra.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:30. €€. PBSJW Chedi Call it a swank, upscale restaurant with an Asian menu, or an Asian restaurant done up to the nines. In either case, what you’ll get at Chedi is a sleek, novel dining experience that fuses East Asian and Western trends. This is where Jasmine tea smoked pork ribs meets Pike perch in Sanpei sauce, and the quality is always top-notch.QC‑4, Sulevimägi 1, tel. +372 646 16 76, www.chedi.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€€. BSJ DimSum Food Club The DimSum Food Club serves up a few versions of this popular Chinese speciality. They do get a bit creative with their dumplings, many of which aren’t exactly Chinese in origin, mainly due to the various fillings in their dumplings - however, the selection we tried were quite tasty. This is actually more of an Asian fusion type place (which isn’t at all a bad thing), also serving miso soup, spring rolls, bao burgers, kimchi, wakame salad etc. QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris), tel. +372 55 54 45 60. Open 11:30-19:30. €€. PU S 6 W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants International

Elevant This is an exceptional Old Town alternative to medieval theme restaurants. Beautiful décor from the entry foyer’s antique wrought iron staircase to the sparse earthy sheik furnishings make it a place to linger over your meal. The sophisticated East meets West style also extends to the menu, offering a wide selection of innovative, carefully prepared Indian and fusion dishes. Adventurous diners should pay particular attention to the meat selection. QC‑5, Vene 5, tel. +372 631 31 32, www.elevant.ee. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. BSVJ6W Gotsu, Kyuho´s kitchen This little cellar place is a small hike from the centre, but for an authentic Korean experience it’s pretty much your best bet in Tallinn. Besides the main eating area they also have a traditional Korean dining room where guests are asked to remove their shoes when entering, (clean socks and fresh smelling feet would be highly recommended). Here you’ll be able to enjoy their succulent dumplings while on your knees. Dishes tend to be on the spicy side so please make your preference known when ordering.QJ‑8, Pärnu mnt. 62a, tel. +372 614 00 22, www.gotsu.ee. Open 12:0020:00; closed Sun, Sat. €. SV6W Guru Restoran Delectable appetisers, pungent curries, and charming decor all add up to what makes Guru so special. Though relatively new to the restaurant scene, Guru is certainly among the top Indian restaurants in Tallinn. The dishes are thoughtfully plated and portions are perfect for sharing. We quite liked the saag paneer and the vegetable pakora. QAia 10a, tel. +372 611 80 18. Open Mon, Thu 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00; closed Tue, Wed. €€. PBSJ6W Very Thai This colourful and flavourful Thai restaurant may be located a bit off the beaten path, but it’s certainly worth the journey. Run by a husband and wife team, Very Thai makes its guests feel right at home. The chef, Butsaba has been cooking since she was ten years old and owned a restaurant in Thailand before moving to Tallinn with her husband. The menu offers traditional Thai dishes, including some from Butsaba’s home town, as well as an entirely separate vegan menu. QL‑8, Katusepapi 4, tel. +372 53 31 77 20, www.verythai.ee. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri 12:0021:30; Sat 13:00-21:30; Sun 13:00-20:00. €€. TS6 W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

There are plenty of exciting dining experiences to be had in Tallinn. These are places where the chef plays with the ingredients and combines international cuisines to bring you something a little different. If you’re looking for a casual, yet memorable meal, look no further than this category! Allee Located inside Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park, this sleek and modern restaurant offers beautiful views over the park and seating on a large outdoor terrace during warmer months. The internationally-inspired seasonal menu has something for both omnivores and herbivores. We quite enjoyed that herring ice cream and beef carpaccio. Be sure to leave room for dessert, too! A full breakfast menu is served until 11:00 and on Sundays you can enjoy their brunch menu from 12:00 15:00. QD‑4, Aia 18/ Kanuti 2, tel. +372 649 30 33, www. kalevspa.ee. Open 12:00-20:00. €€€. PUBJW

Allee

R14 Located in the trendy Rotermanni Quarter, R14 is a restaurant for wine lovers. The extensive wine list offers a wonderful selection of wines by the glass that have been expertly paired with their contemporary take on classic dishes. We liked the tuna salad with quail’s egg and fried green olives, and you can’t go wrong with a good steak either.QE‑4, Rotermanni 14, tel. +372 58 55 81 20, www. r14.ee. Open 11:00-23:00. Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 11:0021:00. €€€. PUBS6W Rataskaevu 16 The service, quality and cosy atmosphere here make it worth coming back to. The cuisine is fresh, imaginative and their home-made artisan bread is in a word - delicious. Personally we have a few other spots in and around Old Town that we prefer, however, they do hold the ‘number one’ spot on ‘Tripadvisor’ and have a prime location just opposite the ‘Cat’s Well’. Because of this we would advise making a reservation. They also have a second location around the corner, serving the exact same menu. All-in-all a decent spot for a meal or for a romantic lite-bite and a nice glass of wine.QB‑5, Ra‑ taskaevu 16, tel. +372 642 40 25, www.rataskaevu16.ee. Open 12:00-22:00. Also at: C-2, Niguliste 6, tel. +372 601 13 11, vaike@rataskaevu16.ee. €€. PTBSJ6W Summer 2020

Restaurants Italian Due, perhaps in part, to the influx of Italian men who have seemingly migrated to Tallinn because of the rather endless supply of long-legged blondes, the city has a plethora eateries in this category. We’re not complaining though, both the food and the blondes are bella. Basiilik Pizza & Pasta Attached to the giant cinema house in Rotermann district, Basiilik is a pleasant find. The fresh dishes are inspired by the Mediterranean and European cuisine, adapted to the Nordic taste. With special attention to healthy ingredients, the menu offers good choices for everyone and includes good options for vegans.QE‑4, Hobujaama 5, tel. +372 56 50 99 91, www.basiilik. ee. Open 11:00-22:00. Also at: L-8, Tartu mnt. 87, tel. +372 56 20 21 17. Open 11:00-20:00. €€. PB S V 6Wi

Basiilik

Controvento Decorated in a cosy combination of medieval Estonian and rustic Italian, this stylish eatery has been a favourite of expats and locals for years, and deservedly so. The food here is absolutely top notch, with excellent pastas and beef dishes complemented by a good selection of Italian wine. It’s featured in every tourist guidebook, so be sure to make reservations.QC‑4, Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. +372 644 04 70, www. controvento.ee. Open 12:00-22:00. €€€. PB I SJ W Da Rocco The sleek, yet cosy interior of this trattoria is inviting, especially with the fireplace crackling in the corner. When we visited, they had only just opened, and the menu seemed to be under development, but the friendly owner was keen to let us taste a few different dishes prepared by their Italian chef Rocco. What we did try did not disappoint, especially the beef carpaccio and fritto misto.QB‑4, Lai 6, tel. +372 56 27 11 77, www.darocco.ee. Open 12:3016:00;18:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. €€€€. J 40 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Check out Kalamaja section on page 28 for more area specific restaurants. Gourmet Pizza ‘Gourmet Club’, long synonymous with quality in Estonia, brings Italian-style sourdough pizza to the heart of Old Town. This cosy little café offers up delicious pies for a pittance. You’ll find some of the classics here, as well as creative combinations that will leave both your tastebuds and tummy satisfied. It all starts with the dough though, their special recipe is the foundation for all that pizza goodness - and the toppings, which come primarily from Italy, work together like a finely tuned operetta. You can also enjoy great coffee and some gastronomical delights onsite, or purchase some delicious souvenirs to take home. Be sure to check out their featured, seasonal delicacies as well. QD‑5, Viru 17, tel. +372 507 22 20, www.gourmetclub.ee. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:0019:00. Also at: I-6, Erika 14 (Arsenal Center), tel. +372 53 44 24 72. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. €€. BSJ Pulcinella Certainly a dining delight, this very authentic, Neapolitan cellar-restaurant pulls all the stops to give you the complete experience. Italian-owned and operated, they also feature a fresh, imported deli counter where one can find top-notch ingredients. We quite enjoyed the cosy, lowkey Italian ambiance. The cuisine was also delightful and our pizza was one of the best we’ve had in Tallinn. There are so many layers to explore at Pulcinella and naturally it isn’t all pizza with them, they offer some other tasty and traditional dishes as well as a surprising array of seafood dishes inspired by the Tyrrhenian Sea.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 2, tel. +372 56 22 96 91, www.pulcinella.ee. Open 13:0022:30; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. €€€. PB SJW Vapiano Foorum Vapiano is a European chain of ‘fresh-casual’ concept restaurants where the tantalising food is prepared right before your very eyes. When you arrive at the door you’re greeted and given a plastic card, then proceed to the open kitchen area or bar where you can place your orders (pasta, salad/antipasti, pizza, drinks) and the items are charged to the card. The majority of mouth-watering food items are fresh and home-made. That’s right - fresh, pastas are dispatched quite quickly, the pizza doesn’t take too long either, but you’ll be given a pager that vibrates and blinks when your pizza is piping hot. The prices are delightfully affordable and the food – bella!QE‑4, Hobujaama 10, tel. +372 682 90 10, www.vapiano.ee. Open 11:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-22:00. Also at: D-6 Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), solaris@vapiano.ee, tel. 628 59 99. Open 11:0022:00. Also at: M-8, Suur-Sõjamäe 4 (Ülemiste Centre), ulemiste@vapiano.ee, tel. 55 54 50 24. Open 11:0021:00. €€. PTUBS6W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants tipping tips

kadriorg area There is still no rule per se, but the general practice is to leave roughly 10% in any restaurant where you ate a full meal and where the bill was brought to your table (i.e., you didn’t order and pay at the bar). Also, it’s often simpler to tip in cash rather than adding the tip to a credit card payment.

Japanese Japanese restaurants offer so much more than just sushi (though there still are plenty of places for sushi). The ramen craze has certainly hit Tallinn, but there are also a few places specialising in regional cuisines that are certainly worth a visit. Haku This truly authentic Japanese restaurant, located near the US Embassy, is owned and managed by a Japanese chef and his Estonian wife (who also happens to be a Japanese trained sushi chef). The menu is compact and quite traditional - albeit with a certain modern flare and filled with all the tasty delicacies you might want to enjoy from a restaurant in this genre. Everything at Haku is down to the details, homemade soy sauce, fresh seafood and imported Japanese ingredients. Stepping into this eatery is like entering another world. Reservation is highly recommended.QD‑7, Lätte 6, tel. +372 56 31 45 47, www.haku. ee. Open 18:00-22:30; Fri, Sat 17:00-22:30; closed Mon, Sun. €€. BISV6 Sushi Plaza A short walk from Viru Keskus will find you at this sushi bar - the relaxed atmosphere and price per portion ratio is certainly to be commended and the quality of their various offerings is generally quite good. Their menu consists primarily of various maki rolls, but they also offer a few nigiris, as well as a some traditional soups including the ever popular miso varieties.QK‑7, Narva mnt. 6, tel. +372 53 33 26 99, www.sushiplaza.ee. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. PSV6W Washoku Washoku is a casual Japanese restaurant in the heart of the city. The menu offers a large selection of traditional Japanese dishes, as well as a wide range of Japanese drinks. Enjoy a lunch menu on weekdays from 12:00 to 15:00.QD‑3, Poordi 3, tel. +372 661 26 22, www.washoku.ee. Open 12:00-20:00. €€. PBSV6W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

The restaurants listed here are located in the scenic Kadriorg district of Tallinn. Check out our ‘Sightseeing’ section to find out more. Gourmet Coffee Kadriorg The first location of this now, growing chain of coffee shops continues to import and brew their own beans on-site, something that you’ll taste in a cup of their expertly brewed coffee. This popular locale also serves up a full menu including some great breakfast options, but we happen to like it for the cosy interior and light bites. Staff are chatty and friendly, and seem to know their coffee.QL‑7, L. Koidula 13a, tel. +372 661 30 35, www.gourmetcoffee.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. €€. PTBS6W NOP - shop & café Originally touted as an eco-friendly organic shop and café, this addition to the Kadriorg landscape is certainly fresh and trendy. The food was nicely prepared, presented and we certainly enjoyed the mellow atmosphere while lingering over a coffee. You’ll also be able to find some fresh and interesting food items to take home with you from the shop. In summer they have a big nice bohemian garden under old shady trees. QL‑7, Köleri 1, tel. +372 603 22 70, www.nop.ee. Open 08:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. €€. TB IS6Wi Mantel ja Korsten Named after the mantle chimney in the middle of this quaint wooden house in Kadriorg, Mantel ja Korsten is the place to come if you’re looking for a casual, yet delicious meal. The Mediterranean-inspired menu changes seasonally, and the expertly-chosen wine list compliments the menu well. We quite enjoyed the grilled steak and the homemade seafood pasta. But, to be honest, everything looked quite good. There’s no seating outside for the warmer months, but you can request to book the table inside the mantle chimney. QL‑7, Poska 19a, tel. +327 665 95 55, www.mantelkorsten.ee. Open 17:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. PTBISV6W Riis Located right on the edge of Kadriorg, this trendy and stylish, Asian-fusion eatery serves up fresh and delicious dishes from all over the continent. Everything from crispy spring rolls to pad Thai and chow mein to pho bo soup can be found here - all delightfully prepared and everything we’ve eaten at Riis has been pleasing to the palate to say the least. Great lunch specials too.QL‑7, Tina 21, tel. +372 642 70 25, www.riis. ee. Open 13:00-22:00. €€. PTUSL6W

Summer 2020

Restaurants Seafood

gastropubs

For years, Tallinn was lacking in the seafood restaurant category, but all of that’s changed now. Enjoy fresh fish and shellfish any day of the week.

Craft beers, signature cocktails, and gourmet pub fare are what you’ll find at Tallinn’s gastropubs.

Kalambuur The brainchild of one of Estonia’s most famous fishermen, Vladislav Koržets and his family, this tiny and very cosy seafood restaurant certainly hits the spot. The quality is very good, the prices not too high and the cuisine is prepared superbly. Our blinis with caviar were some of the best we’ve ever had and the fish and chips were fresh and crunchy. We’ll certainly be back for more fishy goodness as they frequently offer new and exciting items.QA‑6, Toompuiestee 8, tel. +372 56 69 41 94, www.kalambuur.ee. Open 17:0022:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. €€€. BW The Nautilus Comparisons with the Nautilus submarine, envisioned by writer Jules Verne, can certainly be made with this restaurant - one of the few that specialises in seafood here. The brass and dark stained wood interior, offset by curious and interesting sea-inspired elements encompass dining ‘passengers’ with an almost literary steam-punk flare. The menu, naturally, features seafood – yet, includes a fair amount of earthly delights.QC‑4, Pikk 36 / Olevimägi 5, tel. +372 57 80 77 77. Open Mon 17:00-22:00; Tue, Wed, Thu 13:00-23:00; Fri 13:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €€€. BJ

Theme restaurants It’s certainly not unusual to find a medieval restaurant in a medieval Old Town, but did you know that Tallinn even has a pirate-themed restaurant? Olde Hansa Many frequent travellers would say that you haven’t really been to Tallinn unless you’ve visited Olde Hansa. This Mecca of mediaevalism in the heart of Old Town doesn’t just serve historically authentic fare made from carefully researched recipes, it provides guests with a whole experience using a combination of candlelight, waiters and waitresses in period costume and medieval background music. Chamber musicians round out the ambience every night of the week.QC‑5, Vana turg 1, tel. +372 627 90 20, www.oldehansa.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. UBIEJ6 Peppersack Peppersack makes wonderful use of the 15th-century building it calls home - both the vast main hall and the more intimate rooms further back exude comfy medieval-ness. The menu is European-based, with hearty dishes to satisfy any palate. The fresh, hot rolls are a nice touch. Every day around 20:30 there’s a theatrical sword fight in the main hall. Great terrace in the summer.QC‑5, Viru 2, tel. +372 646 68 00, www.peppersack.ee. Open 12:0022:00. €€€. PTBJ6WY 42 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Clayhills Gastropub The first of its kind in Estonia, Clayhills Gastropub has raised the bar high. With executive chef Zvaonekwa (Zvaon) Chamunokara at the kitchen’s helm, the fresh cuisine is more along the lines of a Michelin Star restaurant than that of a pub. Fortunately you won’t have to pay Michelin level prices. The rich interior is heavily garnished with leather and the cellar is well stocked with quality beers and wines alike. The service also comes with a welcoming smile and the atmosphere is brimming with warmth. Situated in the heart of Old Town, Clayhills hosts a spacious outdoor terrace in the warmer months!QC‑4, Pikk 13, tel. +372 641 93 12, www. clayhills.ee. Open Mon, Tue 18:00-24:00; Wed, Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:0024:00. €€. BE J 6 W Frank Dedicated, we assume to ‘Ol’ Blue Eyes’, this culinary cocktail bar also doubles as a New York, Soho-style bistro - and they do offer up an extensive selection of drinks and cocktails served with class. Their menu offerings are also quite delectable and the prices rather reasonable. We particularly enjoyed the burger, of which they offer a few, but their soups and great vegetarian dishes are also definitely worth trying.QC‑5, Sauna 2, tel. +372 623 30 59, www.frankbistro. ee. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-01:00; closed Mon. €€. BJ 6 W

Vegetarian & Vegan Vegetarian and vegan foods has grown in popularity over the last few years, so much so that your veggie options are so much more than potatoes or dhal or veggie stir frys. You will find at least a few vegetarian/vegan options at most restaurants or even full menus at some of Tallinn’s vegan establishments. Rohe Kohvik This bustling vegan café tries to be green in everything it does from its no-waste food policy to its biodegradable packaging. The menu boasts a vegan take on classic dishes - from their ‘tšiken tsaesar’ to their corn bites with ‘cheeze’ jalapeno sauce. We absolutely loved the ‘tsaesar’ salad and a cup of spicy ginger turmeric tea. For something a little bit more filling, try the teriyaki ‘tšikin’, Rohe Kohvik’s most popular dish. Service is friendly. The interior is light and modern, and we were told that there are plans for a rooftop terrace.QA‑3, Kopli 4, tel. +372 437 00 95. Open 12:00 - 21:00. €. PBSVL6W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Vegan Restoran V Sure, V fills a niche, but people don’t come here just because it’s vegan, they come because it’s good. We found the service helpful, the medieval-meets-rustic décor charming and the prices friendly, especially for Old Town. It was the food itself we liked the best though, with inventive dishes like fishless fish burger with oven baked sweet potato that is surprisingly filling. Small and popular, so book a table in advance.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 12, tel. +372 626 90 87, www.veganrestoran.ee. Open 12:00-23:00. €. BSVJ6W

World Cuisines The international community is growing in Tallinn, which means a growing number of international restaurants to try. Beer House In keeping with its beer-drinking theme, the menu at Old Town’s only micro brewery lists three different kinds of sausages alongside all sorts of other foods that go great with beer - naturally pizza and some juicy grilled items are also available. The real reason to stop in though is the beer-hall ambience and the unpasteurised, home-made, living beers, which come in seven different varieties. If you’re a cheese gourmand, also check out Rae Meierei, next door (see review under New Nordic category).QB‑5, Dunkri 5, tel. +372 58 19 06 70, www.beerhouse.ee. Open 12:00-22:30; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-24.00. €€€. PXBESVJW facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Georgian Tavern Tbilisi This Old Town restaurant in Tallinn offers up a real taste of Georgia. The staff of this family restaurant are very welcoming, as is the atmosphere. You’ll find all the Georgian classics such as hinkali (meat dumplings), grilled sashlik (meat skewers) and our favourite, hatchapuri (melted cheese filled flat-bread) among many others. All dishes are prepared fresh so be prepared to wait a little for your food to arrive. Our only warning is that with all the mouth-watering offers on the menu, many including photos, you’ll be tempted to bite off more than you can chew. So bring friends, order a few dishes and share them.QB‑5, Rüütli 18, tel. +372 742 28 28, www.tbilisi.ee. Open 11:00-19:00. €€. BI S J 6 W Siga La Vaca This colourful Argentinian restaurant prides itself on its parilla, or grilled meat. Chef Simon, a trained parilla chef offers beautifully grilled steaks from Brazil and Uruguay, all served with chimichurri. Service is very friendly and staff are very knowledgeable, and happy to talk to you about the menu. While the steaks were some of the best we’ve tasted in Tallinn, our favourite was the beef heart served with cheese sauce. For those less adventurous, there are a few seafood options, as well as some tasty appetisers.QJ‑6, Vabriku 6/1, tel. +372 53 95 75 12. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. Summer 2020

Restaurants quick bites

street food

Baojaam What started as a small street food stall at the Baltic Station Market, now has a full location in the Old Town. Their new location has a more extensive menu than the food stall, but equally as tasty. For those that had never tried a bao, it’s a fluffy steamed bun filled with anything you could imagine, and the guys at Baojaam are quite inventive. We quite liked the sticky wings and the kataifi shrimp bao, and we’ll certainly be back to try more.QD‑5, Müürivahe 50, www.baojaam.ee. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-17:00. Also at: A-3, Kopli 1 (Baltic Station Market). Open 11:00 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. €. BSJ6W Estonian Burger Factory A bit of a hike from Old Town, this burger joint has become quite popular with locals and tourists alike. With large number of different burgers, the menu offers so many variations that some items don’t even resemble a burger anymore, which, for the more adventurous diners is certainly a plus. All patties are made with 100% organic Estonian beef or lamb. They also grill up a pretty decent veggie burger, but we prefer the classic with cheese and bacon ourselves.QLootsi 10, tel. +372 59 08 26 26, www.ebf.ee. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. BSL Fafa’s The Finnish falafel chain Fafa’s is in Tallinn now. Serving up fresh Middle Eastern-inspired cuisine, it’s a great option for a quick and healthy bite, with plenty of veggie and meat options.QD‑4, Viru väljak 4 (Viru Centre), tel. +372 680 92 82, www.fafas.ee. Open 09:00-21:00. US McDonald’s & McCafé There’s a chance that eating burgers everyday may make you fat. There, we warned you. Please don’t sue us. At this location you can also enjoy a pretty decent latte and some scrumptious cakes alongside your ‘Royal with Cheese’, thanks to the attached McCafé. Give it up for the accent mark. Now they serve breakfast from 07:00-11:00 everyday - pretty exciting if you ask us.QD‑5, Viru 24, tel. +372 631 44 33, www.mcdonalds.ee. Open 07:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-04:00. BSJWi Subway This healthier fast food alternative to your typical ‘burgers and fries’ joint, is certainly a welcome addition to the Tallinn dining scene. You choose the type of bun-bread you want, toasted or not, you choose the style of sub and lastly you get to pick the toppings and sauces. It’s as simple as that. This location happens to be the most stylish Subway we’ve ever eaten at and practically every table has a place to plug in your laptop or tablet. In terms of the overall experience it comes pretty close to what you’ll find in North America. QD‑6, Estonia pst. 7, tel. +372 607 00 27, www.subway. com. Open 09:00-21:00; Fri 09:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Also at: G-4, Narva mnt. 5 (Foorum Centre), tel. +372 671 77 13. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. €. PSV6W 44 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Who doesn’t love good street food? Perhaps an oversized burger oozing some signature sauce or something that reflects local cuisine with a name you can’t pronounce… Whatever your flavour, there’s plenty to explore right here in Tallinn. Street food is a great way to get a sense of local food culture without committing to an entire meal in a restaurant. While Tallinn isn’t quite yet overrun with food trucks like many other cities of the world, we still have our fair share of street food where you can taste the flavours of the world without spending a fortune. You’ll find a few street food options in the Old Town. Medieval-themed III Draakon (C-5, Town Hall) has been enticing tourists with its unforgettable elk soup and fresh pies for years. Due to popular demand, Baojaam (D-5, Müürivahe 52) opened a second location on Müürivahe, with a slightly longer menu than at it’s Balti jaam market location. FishBish (see p.67), a fish and chips takeaway in Viru Keskus, let’s you choose your own combo, including some excellent vegetarian and gluten-free options. The one-stop-shop for street food is hands down the Baltic Station Market. The ever-growing street food section of the market offers everything from sushi and dumplings to fried chicken and burgers. Just outside of the market is Depoo, a collection of old train cars and containers that have been turned into small restaurants and takeaways. Check the full listings in Shopping section (page 59). Some of the first places to start offering street fare were Papa Joe (K-6, Sadama 25, Sadama market) and Bueno Gourmet (J-7, Telliskivi 60a). Still going strong, Papa Joe offers some of the best falafel and kebabs in town, as well as a good selection of Middle Eastern dips, spreads and olives to take away. Bueno Gourmet, a food truck located in the Telliskivi area, serves up tasty tacos, burgers, wraps and sandwiches.

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Cafés

Fotografiska café awaits in the Telliskivi area (see page 29) Ranging from full on eateries, to quaint little coffee nooks that serve up a few pastries and cakes - Tallinn has a lot to offer if you're looking for a café. With our comprehensive list, we're sure you'll find the right one for you.

Classic cafés The staple formula of a bunch of little, round tables and a pastry counter has served Tallinn well for years. It’s not that these places don’t have ambience - they do, but they’re more for grabbing a bite on the run than for settling in. Café Mademoiselle Located in the foyer of the Park Inn by Radisson Meriton Tallinn, this large café offers a selection of freshly baked pastries, sandwiches and wraps, as well as a small selection of prepared salads. Hot options are limited to the daily offers, but not a bad choice if you’re looking for a quick lunch. French sweets like macaroons and beautifully decorated little cakes line the display, tempting the sweet tooth.QJ‑7, Toom‑ puiestee 27/Paldiski mnt. 4, tel. +372 628 81 55, www. cafemademoiselle.ee. Open 08:00-22:00. €. BSWi Café Pikk 29 Considered for years to be one of Tallinn’s best places to get a delectable dessert, this classic café still lives up to its reputation. Along with the many calorie-laden treats on offer, you can also find a few decent savoury meals and a couple of breakfast options as well.QC‑4, Pikk 29, tel. +372 664 88 05, www.meritonhotels.com/meriton-hotels/kohvik. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. €. TBSJW Gustav Café If your in the mood for great cakes, pastries or an excellent cup of coffee - Gustav will probably satisfy your cravings. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

This nice little café at the bottom of the Solaris Centre treats their baked goods with serious respect and they try to put positive thoughts into everything that goes into their ovens. The staff are also quite friendly which certainly helps make a visit to Gustav an enjoyable experience. QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 672 27 22, www.gustavcafe.ee. Open 09:00-21:00. PUS 6W Kehrwieder One of the best cafés in town for ambience, Kehrweider is a snug warren of cave-like stone rooms filled with quirky, old furniture. Excellent gourmet coffees, handmade chocolates and the Town Hall Square location are other plusses, but be warned it can get crowded here.QC‑4, Saiakang 1, tel. +372 55 56 72 03, www.kohvik.ee. Open 08:0023:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00. BSJWY Maiasmokk Tallinn’s oldest café, the Sweet Tooth has been serving marzipan and other treats since it opened way back in 1864. Drop in for elaborate cakes, cheap coffee, and an amazing, pre-war interior.QC‑4, Pikk 16, tel. +372 646 40 79, www.kohvikmaiasmokk.ee. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-21:00. SJ Pierre Chocolaterie People squeeze into this quaint, frilly, 19th-century style café for two reasons: One is that it has its own master Chocolatier who cooks up truffles from scratch, and the other is the unbeatably cosy atmosphere. Be warned that seats fill up fast and that during slow times they occasionally close a little early.QC‑5, Vene 6 (in the Masters Courtyard), tel. +372 641 80 61, www.pierre.ee. Open 10:00-22:00. BSVJ6W Summer 2020

Cafés Reval Café This rustic Old Town café invites you to stop in for a quick bite or relax with a good cup of coffee and a piece of cake. Their menu offers everything from warm meals to gelato.QC‑5, Vene 1, tel. +372 644 64 73, www.revalcafe. ee. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. €. UIESJ6W Saiakang Saiakang is located in a narrow passageway connecting Pikk Street with Town Hall Square, where you can sit by the large windows and watch as people pass by. The café boasts a good selection of freshly-baked cakes and pastries (all made in-house), as well as some great coffee. QC‑4, Saiakang 3, tel. +372 644 30 55. Open 09:0020:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. €. PBSJ6Wi

ice cream

Modern cafés Tallinn’s most en vogue cafés all offer full meals as well as the satisfaction that you’re with the ‘in’ crowd. These classy establishments are best for long chats with friends, romantic encounters and discussions about your next novel. Anneli Viik Handmade Chocolates Café Chocoholics beware! This little, café features Anneli Viik’s handmade chocolates, made on the spot and sold either by the box for take-away, or in smaller portions to accompany your coffee (or light food or cognac, etc).QA‑3, Kopli 1 (Bal‑ tic Station Market), tel. +372 501 47 40, www.anneliviik. ee. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun 09:00-17:00. PS6W Bogapott Tucked into part of a medieval town wall on Toompea, the family-run Bogapott is a cosy, otherworldly hideaway. Fresh, flaky pastries and sandwiches are the speciality in this combination café, art shop and ceramics studio.QB‑5, Pikk jalg 9, tel. +372 631 31 81, www. bogapott.ee. Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Thu, Sun. BI J W Café Amore Because it’s all about the love isn’t it. This quaint little café kind of bleeds romantic, from the ultra sinful chocolate cakes and the rich coffees to the little cans of proseco and gold framed everything, Amore really spreads the love. Quite a nice view onto Niguliste church too.QB‑5, Harju 5, tel. +372 644 07 21, www.cafeamore.ee. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-21:00. BS Ji

You’ll be able to find ice cream at many an eatery in Tallinn, although locating an actual ice-cream stand while wandering about seems to be a bit hit and miss and availability also seems to change from year to year. Your best bet is to hit a supermarket such as Rimi or the 24-hour shop if you prefer your creamed-ice on the go. Cortile It’s hard to resist a good gelato on a warm day. Italian-owned and operated, this small gelateria has had great success in its first few months and we suspect will continue to have. The gelato is made fresh daily, with a rotating selection of classic flavours like pistachio, lemon, stracciatella, chocolate, fior di latte and more.QB‑5, Lühike jalg 4. Open 11:00-17:00. SJ Gelato Ladies Fresh gelato, prepared daily from all-natural ingredients is what’s on offer at Gelato Ladies. A funky, modern interior compliments the colourful display of delicious gelato. Service is friendly and the gelato production can be seen through their open kitchen as well.QD‑3, Uus 28. Open 11:00-21:00. BSJ 46 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Carmen Café Located in the Rotermann Quarter, this fairly stylish café seems to really like soup - in fact they offer two new soups daily. For all you ‘anti-soupers’, they have a wide range of pastries, gourmet sandwiches and decadent cakes as well. Breakfast is served all day and you can enjoy such classics as Eggs Benedict, Eggs Florentine, omelettes, and Carmen’s very own English Breakfast.QE‑4, Rotermanni 5, tel. +372 53 23 44 55. Open 08:00-19:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-19:00. €€. PB S 6 Wi Gustav Gastro Café This café is the “younger brother” of the popular Werner Café in Tartu. Located inside the Rahva raamat bookstore in Viru keskus shopping centre, the Gustav Gastro Café serves up hearty breakfasts, light or filling lunches, and an irresistible selection of cakes and other sweet treats.QE‑5, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. +372 605 00 16, www.gustavgastro. ee. Open 10:00-21:00. €€. PUSV6Wi Kohvik Komeet This gem of a café located in the sparklingly modern Solaris centre has great views, fresh foods and above all, killer desserts. Did we mention the awesome desserts? Because if you come here you should really try some of their excellent desserts.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Cafés Centre), tel. +372 614 00 90, www.kohvikkomeet.ee. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. €€. PT U B S6 W

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Must Puudel The Black Poodle is a funky, retro eatery with a heavy Soviet living-room feel and a cosy, retro atmosphere that seems to be its main draw. The fresh cuisine is kind of a blend between trendy and home-style, the prices won’t bankrupt you and there are even live entertainment events held some weekends. It certainly can get quite busy during the lunch rush and some evenings, just keep that in mind.QC‑3, Olevimägi 7, tel. +372 505 62 58. Open Mon, Tue 09:00-23:00; Wed 09:00-01:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-02:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. €. PB ES J 6 Wi Pikajala Kohvik There aren’t too many places to grab a bite or a coffee when you reach the top of the hill that is Toompea, but this is one of them. A reincarnation of an old tourist trap of the same name has actually gotten much better and eating a light bite here won’t break the bank.QB‑5, Pikk jalg 16, tel. +372 648 14 28, www.pikajalakohvik.ee. 10:00 - 19:00. Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. €€€. PB S J 6W RØST Leib & Kohv The spongy sourdough is something you’ll want to keep going back for at this bakery in Rotermanni Quarter. Enjoy a quick coffee from some of the best micro roasters in Tallinn and abroad, as well as tasty sandwiches and freshly baked pastries to eat in or take away.QE‑4, Roter‑ manni 14, tel. +372 56 22 32 39, www.rost.ee. Open 08:30-18:00; Sat 09:30-17:00; closed Sun. S Ruby Ruby, located in the Rotermann Quarter, is one of two kosher restaurants in Tallinn. We’re particularly excited about the bagels, although on the pricey side, are pretty great. Eat in or take away bagels, salads and various other bits and pieces. A good choice if you’re looking for something fast and fresh!QE‑4, Rotermanni 2, tel. +372 56 79 11 11. 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. €. Rukis Attached to the popular Estonian restaurant Farm, enjoy a great selection of cakes and pastries, as well as Rukis’ own house-made black bread. In addition to the delectable baked goods, Rukis also offers hearty breakfast options, as well as a full menu throughout the day. QC‑5, Viru 11, tel. +372 517 32 61, www.rukis.ee. Open 08:0020:00. €€. PU B S J Wi

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Breakfast at Rukis

To help you in your quest for eggs or porridge, or whatever your preferred start to the day may be, we’ve compiled a list of restaurants and cafés serving breakfast and brunch. Breakfast While it may be regarded as the most important meal of the day, breakfast, especially in a café or restaurant open before 9 am, can be difficult to find in Tallinn. Some of our favourites in Old town are Allee (page 39, Rukis (see page 47), Kompressor (page 49), Must Puudel (page 47) and Maiasmokk (page 45). And outside of the Old Town Carmen Café (page 46) and RØST (page 47) in Rotermanni district, Fotografiska café (page 29) and Sesoon (A-2, Kotzebue 18) in Kalamaja, NOP café (page 41) in Kadriorg, and Grenka (K-8, Pärnu mnt 76) in Uus Maailm. Sunday Brunch Brunch is growing in popularity in Tallinn. More and more places are offering Sunday brunch menus, either à la carte or as a buffet (though currently restricted). Be sure to call ahead or check Facebook pages before going, because some places are not consistently offering brunch. Worthwhile to check out are Allee (page 39), Humalakoda (page 29), Põhjala Tap Room (page 30), Fotografiska Restaurant (page 29), R14 (page 39) and Sesoon (A-2, Kotzebue 18). Summer 2020

Nightlife

Wonderfully quirky and always happening - Sessel Speakeasy Bar (see page 51) One could get the impression that Estonians are hopeless party animals. For a town its size, Tallinn has a suspiciously high number of bars and nightclubs. But for foreign visitors, this just means there’s more variety on offer. This section is designed to help you pick the nightspot that suits your mood, whatever that may be. Please keep in mind that many of the bars, lounges and pubs we have listed also offer extensive menu’s and are usually open at noon - making some of them quite viable options for lunch or dinner.

Expat hangouts Whether or not you consider it a stamp of approval, these bars and pubs are where Tallinn’s expats, a fare share of locals that like to speak English and more than a few tourists, tend to congregate. Clayhills Gastropub Serving up gastronomical delights both by day and night, this is a great place to hang out in a relaxed atmosphere. Clayhills, situated in the heart of the Old Town offers up an excellent selection of local and imported beers, heart-warming and creative pub cuisine and a healthy dose of live music on weekends. If you’re looking for a more intimate experience, you can check out the cosy upstairs on the 2nd floor. Watch Tallinn pass you by from one of the window seats, or from the large outdoor terrace in the warmer months!QC‑4, Pikk 13, tel. +372 641 93 12, www.clayhills.ee. Open Mon, Tue 18:00-24:00; Wed, Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. BEJ6W Mad Murphy’s Mad Murphy’s is everything you’d expect from an Irish Pub and a whole lot more. Featuring a well-ventilated smoking room, a dance-floor, more large-screens than you can shake a stick at and some fantastic live music on weekends, Murphy’s can certainly get quite ‘mad’ 48 Tallinn In Your Pocket

SYMBOL key 6 Pets allowed

J Old Town location

I Fireplace

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking area

S Take-away

L Free parking

B Outside seating N Payment in cash only W Wifi

Y Tallinn Card partner

any night of the week. They also serve up an excellent variety of your favourite pub grub. Great selection of beers on tap. Murphy’s currently has a whiskey corner and one the largest selection of whiskeys in Estonia. A sampler menu also available for the whiskey connoisseur.QC‑4, Mündi 2, tel. +372 601 10 70. Open 10:0004:00. XB E J W Nimeta Baar (The Pub with No Name) In case the flags hanging out front don’t give it away, Nimeta is the quintessential expat bar. At times it looks like something between a British stag party hangout and an expat boys’ club, but a good number of locals and traveller types make it more interesting, especially on weekends when DJs get people into the dancing mood. One of the best paces in the city to watch to watch live broadcast sports events on one of their many screens. If you’re into Indian cuisine they also offer some truly excellent curries for rather reasonable prices, and make sure to check out their daily dish during the week. QC‑5, Suur-Karja 4, tel. +372 641 15 15/(+372) 56 49 14 91, www.nimetabaar.ee. Open 09:00-03:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-05:00. XU B J W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife how to toast in estonian If you want to get in good with the locals, it never hurts to learn how to toast in the national language. Luckily it’s fairly simple here: Estonians toast by clinking their glasses and saying ‘Terviseks’ (health). It’s crucial, however, that you look your drinking companion in the eye just as your glasses are clinking. If you miss this step, the toast doesn’t count and you’ll have to start all over!

Bars & Pubs Assorted watering holes, each with its own style. Kompressor Students in particular seem to be drawn to this simple, unassuming bar with oversized tables and cheap drinks. Kompressor is also locally famous for its excellent pancakes, which are both cheap and filling. Kitchen closes at 22:00.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 3, tel. +372 646 42 10, www. kompressorpub.ee. Open 11:00-22:00. NJ Route 33 Bar Restaurant by day and bar/nightclub after dark, this very lively locale is situated on Old Town’s main bar street. The atmosphere has an air of being a bit of a ‘meet market’ but that’s kind of the point. Lots of big screens so you can catch the latest premier league matches, special events, a dance floor, beautiful girls and live music kind of pull it altogether. If you have a hankering for some decent ‘Yankee-style’ food, their kitchen is also open late.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 13, tel. +372 680 76 17. Open Sun 12:00-03:00; Mon, Tue 11:00-03:00; Wed, Thu 11:00-04:00; Fri 11:00-06:00; Sat 12:00-06:00. XBJW Scotland Yard An absolute monster of a pub just outside Old Town, Scotland Yard earns praise for its quaint Victorian-library/police-department interior, which even includes toilets done up like electric chairs! It can get rather busy on weekend nights, so bring along some patience, grab a seat when you can and slam a few back before heading out to one of the numerous clubs in the area. Live music nights from Tuesday to Saturday.QD‑4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. +372 653 51 90, www.scotlandyard.ee. Open 12:00-24:00; Mon 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Free admission. BEW St. Patrick’s The name and décor may be Irish, but the crowds in each of Tallinn’s four St. Patrick’s pubs are just about as Estonian as they come. All offer decent, cheap food, and every fourth Saku Originaal is always free. The one on Pikk is situated in a gothic house from the 15th century. The 600year old house is worth exploring, especially with a pint in hand.QC‑4, Pikk 45, tel. +372 641 81 73, www.patricks. ee. Open 11:00-23:30; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel: 664 04 43. Open 10:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. J6W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina Respectably busy (but rarely packed) on a given Friday night, Tallinn’s Texas-style cantina is a casual place to knock back a corona while tapping your foot to the twangy country/rock or old blues played in the stereo. Monster portions of fries will kill even the worst munchies.QC‑4, Pikk 43, tel. +372 631 17 55, www.texas.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. BI E S J6 W The Highlander The only Scottish pub in Tallinn, this intimate little cellar venue stocks the largest variety of Scottish beers and the largest selection of whiskeys in Estonia. If you have a hankering for some of Scotland’s favourite bar foods, you’ll also find them at the Highlander. Deep-fried ‘haggis-baws’, sausage rolls, scotch eggs and deep fried mars bars make this the right place if you’re planning on throwing your diet into a deep ‘loch’. Occasional live music on weekends and some excellent whiskey based cocktails and moonshine as well. ‘Lets get pissed!’. QC‑5, Kuninga 1, tel. +372 58 83 61 20. Open 17:0003:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-07:00; Sun 12:00-03:00; closed Mon. XB J W Check out Kalamaja section on page 28 for more area specific Nightlife spots. Summer 2020

Nightlife Beer bars A few years ago it was difficult to find beers of exceptional character or quality in Tallinn. A few individuals and establishments certainly changed that and now it’s actually hard to find a decent bar that doesn’t serve up great imports and local craft brews. Some however go the extra mile, if you happen to be a beer connoisseur check these places out.

Artsy/underground The raw underbelly of Tallinn's music and art scene will be appealing only to more adventurous travellers. Depeche Mode bar Vilnius has its Frank Zappa statue, so it’s only fair that Tallinn has this bar dedicated to Depeche Mode. For normal humans, this is just a friendly dive bar stuffed with fan memorabilia. But if you’re a true DM fan, this is all you ever wanted, all you ever needed.QB‑4, Voorimehe 4, tel. +372 631 43 08, www.depechemode.ee. Open 18:0002:00; closed Mon. Age restriction 18+. XEJW Furry Owl Watch your head when climbing down into Old Town’s tiniest bar, a cellar venue whose charm comes from its decidedly junky décor. The Owl is popular with students and adventurous tourists, so if you don’t manage to get one of the few tables, nobody will complain if you enjoy your drink while standing in the way.QC‑4, Vene 27, tel. +372 55 51 42 32. Open 20:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 20:00-02:00; closed Mon, Tue. J

Beer Garden Tucked away on the edge of the Old Town, some might walk past thinking it’s a bit too touristy, but that would be a mistake. Aside from the cosy atmosphere and the colourful outdoor terrace in warmer months, Beer Garden offers some decent food. Their pub grub-inspired menu has a lot to choose from, including some nice vegetarian options, a great burger, and their own giant homemade elk sausage, just to name a few. The staff can help you pair your meal with one of over 30 different beers available on tap or in bottle. With several big screens, Beer Garden is also a good option for watching sports. QD‑4, Aia 10 / Inseneri 1, tel. +372 688 00 13, www.beergarden.ee. Open 11:30-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-02:00. XBJW Beer House So, how much German oompah music can you stand? Just teasing, they do play other beer-drinking favourites as well. This enormous, old-fashioned, Bavarian-style beer hall is something of a landmark in Tallinn. That said, the sprawling restaurant just off Town Hall Square is also Old Town’s only micro brewery, serving seven very decent in -house varieties of live beer.QB‑5, Dunkri 5, tel. +372 644 22 22, www.beerhouse.ee. Open 12:00-22:30; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. PXBS EVJW

TUUM This tiny café-bar sandwiched between galleries has been a popular meeting place for artists and artsy types since 1935. While the café opens early for coffee and fresh pastries, don’t let the opening hours fool you. Come here in the evenings for some great snacks and a glass of wine or cocktail after a night at the theatre and enjoy jazz, soul and pop music as well.QC‑6, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. +372 644 59 26, www.tuumcafe.ee. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. BJ6W

Beer House

Valli Baar The Valli is definitely one Tallinn establishment you need to check out. Let’s just say that it is so full of ‘local colour’, it even had a documentary made about it. It’s also a well known fact that attractive blondes often head here for the house speciality ‘Millimallikas’ cocktail before trawling for men over at Club Hollywood. This bar undoubtedly makes it seem cool to be a dirty old man.QC‑5, Müürivahe 14, tel. +372 641 83 79. Open 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. EJ

Drink Bar & Grill Drink Bar & Grill offers a great selection of over 300 different beers, half of which are from Estonia, and 15 of which are on tap. On a typical evening you’ll find a lively bunch of patrons from all over the world; backpackers, locals and ex-pats all seem to congregate here. Whatever category you might fit into you’ll be sure to have feel at home here, imbibing in a ‘drink’ or otherwise.QC‑5, Väike-Karja 8, tel. +372 644 94 33. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. BJ6W

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Nightlife Hell Hunt If you just want to grab a beer with friends and avoid the tourist scene, Hell Hunt (The Gentle Wolf) is probably your best bet. An open, comfortable drinking establishment with a strong sense of style, it pulls in the locals by the droves with its no-nonsense atmosphere. While here, try the pub’s own brand of light, dark, ale and wheat beer (brewed by Viru Õlu) or one of their other 130-140 beers. Decent, cheap food too. QC‑4, Pikk 39, tel. +372 681 83 33, www.hellhunt.ee. Open 12:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. XBIEJ6W Põrgu A great place to grab a decently prepared bite to eat or an interesting beer, Põrgu, or Hell in Estonian, is worth a visit. Ironically enough it’s situated in a cellar but we didn’t notice any roaring fire the last time we visited - unless of course you can call candle flames roaring. The real treat here is being able to choose from 15 draught beers and ciders as well as 200+ bottled beers. They have a good selection of Estonian micro-brews, as well as three of their very own house beers - the recipes were conceived by the owner.QB‑5, Rüütli 4, tel. +372 644 02 32, www.porgu.ee. Open 17:0024:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; closed Sun. J

Cocktail bars Tallinn’s new nightlife trend will probably become a mainstay. There are so many of these lounge bars at the moment that we’ve chosen only to list our favourites. Some are stand-alone establishments and focus solely on beverages, both the classics and their signature cocktails can usually be had - while others also serve fairly tasty food.

Lounge Deja Vu This super-stylish restaurant/lounge/champagne embassy is a swank place to have a few drinks or grab a nice bite. The two floors, prime location and excellent menu make it all that better. Pop by for the many special events, often involving champagne or lingerie - sometimes both, on Friday and Saturday nights. A great smoking lounge can also be found upstairs and they rent out shisha pipes, plus all the necessary paraphernalia to enjoy this Middle-Eastern pastime.QD‑5, Vana-Viru 8, tel. +372 56 88 44 55, www.dejavu.ee. Open Mon, Tue 12:00-23:00; Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-06:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Age restriction 21+ during night hours. PXBESJ6W Sessel Speakeasy bar Sessel is, well, special. Not your typical cocktail lounge, this nightspot is a mix of a trendy/artsy underground lounge, with a plethora of quirky retro fittings, a smattering of gaudy, lush furniture, and with just enough bling - yet not at all pretentious. It has the cosy feel of a second living room - if only your living room looked this nice, had a well stocked bar and bartenders that could whip you up the best vintage, and signature cocktails on a whim. They also host various special events each month including, intimate concerts, film nights, DJs, stand-up comedy shows, and open mic nights among other happenings. This is a place you’ll want to hang around at, if you can even manage to leave at all. QC‑5, Viru 3, tel. +372 55 94 84 94, www.sessel.ee. Open 18:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-03:00. PEJ6W

Butterfly Lounge When we were last here we got the distinct feeling that this lounge was geared primarily towards the ladies. Perhaps it was the pink-clad waiters, overall butterfly motif, frou-frou menu items and more cock... tails than you can shake a stick at that made us feel this way, but if you want to spend the evening hanging out with a harem of beautiful dames, this just might be the perfect place. QD‑5, Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, tel. +372 56 90 37 03, www. kokteilibaar.ee. Open Mon, Tue 17:00-24:00; Wed, Thu 17:00-01:00; Fri 17:00-03:00; Sat 12:00-03:00; closed Sun. Age restriction 18+. BEJ6W

Sessel

Frank Underground Brought to you by the creative minds who envisioned Frank Bistroo, just a few doors down, this is the quintessential cocktail bar - dimmed lights, but not too dark, richly upholstered leather booths, dark wooden accents and works of art from across the globe adorn the walls. Frank Underground brings the silver screen to life, only in technicolour, and if you spend some time here you’ll probably forget you’re even in modern-day Tallinn. At its heart though are the fantastic cocktails - both classic and newly imagined served up by mixologists who truly know their stuff.QC‑5, Sauna 2, tel. +372 623 30 59, www.frankbistro.ee. Open 20:00-02:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. BJ6W

Whisper Sister Everything about Whisper Sister screams speakeasy - the lack of signage, the small gold plaque on the door with a number to call to be let in, and a doorman that greets you and leads you down the red carpeted stairs. There’s bar, the ‘living room’, with a few tables, and then the large circular room with booth-like seating and smaller glass tables. Reservations are needed for every area, except for the bar, and if you get there by 21-22, you should still be able to find a seat. Try a speciality cocktail or some craft alcohol. We quite liked the G&T - Gin & Tea with matcha tea and creme de cacao.QC‑6, Pärnu mnt. 12, tel. +372 58 74 78 37. Open 19:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 19:00-03:00. €€. JW

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Nightlife Live entertainment Lots of pubs have weekend bands, but some places in particular are known as venues for live music. Café Amigo (see clubs) also pulls in some of Estonia’s best acts. Barbar rock club/bar This rock club/bar has received nothing but rave reviews from its growing, loyal fanbase. Live rock and metal shows happen every Friday and Saturday (except for July and August), with other gigs and events happening throughout the week. Tickets are very reasonable (up to €10), with many free events. In addition to great gigs and music, Barbar also offers a small food menu, as well as pool and darts free of charge. And to top it off there’s a year-round, covered terrace - yeah!! Be sure to check their website for full programme details. QE‑6, Rävala pst. 8, tel. +372 58 37 77 88. Open 15:00-03:00. BEW

Barbar

Chicago 1933 For some of the finest live blues this side of... well - Chicago, you can check out this swinging establishment just around the corner from the Viru Gates. The interior is all decked out in rich, dark wood and filled with large booths just like they have in the ‘Windy City’. There’s a strict ‘no firearms allowed’ policy though, so make sure you check your guns at the door.QE‑4, Roseni 8, tel. +372 627 12 66, www.chicago.ee. Open Mon 12:00-22:00; Tue, Wed, Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. PUBEW Gruuv Lounge Brought to you by the same folks behind Patcave, their new venture comes in the form of a lounge. You can expect the same great parties and casual vibe, and don’t worry, they still have Beer Pong. Check their FB page for more information about upcoming events. QC‑7, Pärnu mnt. 19. Open Wed, Thu 21:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 21:0006:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. XE6W 52 Tallinn In Your Pocket

karaoke Due to Tallinn’s proximity to the karaoke-loving nation of Finland, there are quite a few karaoke spots to be found here. By no means have we listed all the possible karaoke venues, but here are a few that specialise in the art of personal embarrassment. Retroteek With over 100,000 songs to choose from and a great stage from which to sing them from, Retroteek is a favourite karaoke place for locals.QE‑6, Kaubamaja 8/ Rävala pst. 8, tel. +372 56 75 18 55. Open Tue, Wed, Thu 20:00-05:00; Fri, Sat 21:00-07:00; Sun 21:0003:00; closed Mon. Shamrock Shamrock is a favourite among Finnish, Russian and Scandinavian tourists looking for a night of cheap beer, good laughs and karaoke. Although technically Irish, don’t let the name fool you, its new digs, under Musumägi (Kissing Hill) in the Old Town bastion wall gives off a bit more of a sports bar vibe than an Irish one, but the late night parties continue and so does the multi-lingual karaoke.QD‑5, Valli 1, tel. +372 660 11 20. Open 12:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-04:00; closed Mon. BSJ6W Philly Joe’s Jazz Club Who doesn’t love a great jazz club? From the relaxed, intimate atmosphere to the great music - it’s a night well spent. Don’t expect a bunch of fancy extras, just smooth grooves and well mixed cocktails. See website for events and details.QB‑6, Vabaduse väljak 10, www.phillyjoes. com. EJ Rock club Tapper This rock club on the edge of Tallinn’s centre holds regular rock nights, loads of local and international concerts and live events. We hear this club fits like a well worn leather jacket drenched in Jack Daniels, we’ll let you see for yourselves. See website for details.QJ‑10, Pärnu mnt 158g, tel. +372 654 75 18, www.tapper.ee. Urban Bar If there’s any place that embodies the upscale-but-stillhip vibe of the Rotermanni district, it’s Urban Bar. Catering to urbanites who are willing to pay a bit more for quality, the sophisticated haunt acts as a combination cocktail bar, restaurant (try the food!) and live performance venue, opening its doors only on the evenings that matter. Expect the expected contingent of bearded barmen, inventive drinks and cool acts. We suggest you book on weekends and scope out a table early if you want a decent view of the stage.QE‑4, Roseni 9, tel. +372 58 84 85 75, www.urbanbar.ee. Open Wed, Thu 18:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Mon, Tue. PXE6W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

CIGAR SHOP & LOUNGE & BAR

HAPPY CIGARS Lootsi 14 - 2, close to terminal D at Tallinn passenger harbour www.cigars.ee, info@cigars.ee, phone +372 5400 5481 Happy Cigars Lounge

Von Krahli Baar The real name is ‘Von Krahli Baar’ but regulars just call it ‘Krahl.’ This down-to-earth pub attached to a local theatre is where Tallinn’s alternative bands come to play, and naturally the crowd tends towards students, hipsters and artsy types. Decent selection of snacks and salads as well. See website for events.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 10, tel. +372 626 90 90, www.vonkrahl.ee/baar1. Open 11:30-21:00. EJW

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Happy Cigars Lounge

Cigar lounges Puff to your heart’s content in these highly urbane shop/ lounges. Happy Cigars Shop & Lounge This port-side cigar shop offers a wide range of Cubans and cigars from other countries. In addition to the smoking room, the spacious walk-in humidor lets you easily familiarise yourself with what’s on offer. Located in a century-old warehouse, you can also also enjoy coffee or a drink from bar, as well as some nice dishes. Tax-free sales are available to tourists living outside EU.QL‑6, Lootsi 14, tel. +372 54 00 54 81, www.cigars.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. PXUBI6W

Happy Cigars Shop and Lounge

The Oak Lounge - Tallinn Owned by one of Estonia’s largest cigar distributors, this casual, Afro-Caribbean-style lounge with a large selection of whiskeys from around the globe, has comfy chairs and a warm sophisticated look. It’s a sensible place to stop for any number of the 200 types of Dominican, Nicaraguan, Honduran or cross blended cigars from the finest cigar manufacturers around the world. Friendly, professional service helps to make your time here a ‘full bodied’ experience. The Oak Lounge also has an extensive cigar and whiskey shop for those who would rather indulge back at the hotel or at home.QB‑5, Dunkri 2, tel. +372 644 56 47, www.theoaklounge.com. Open 14:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. XJW

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Nightlife midnight munchies If you’re looking for food and drink after the pubs close, here are some decent options.

Wine bars In recent years, wine bars have emerged as a sophisticated, mature alternative in this overly beer-centric town. Mull This cosy champagne-lounge, owned by the beautiful model, Estonian personality and model agency owner Beatrice, features just the right amount of stylish and artistic atmosphere you might want in a bubbly lounge. Mull in fact, means ‘bubble’ in English and they certainly can offer you a wide-variety of the bubbly stuff, alongside perfectly-paired and home-made lite-bites for the occasion.QC‑4, Pikk 47, www.beatrice.ee/mull.html. Open 18:00-22:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. NBJW Osteria del Gallo Nero Personality is everything, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this cosy Italian food shop/café. The owners turn it into lively - albeit tiny - wine bar at night. The selection of wines however is not tiny and they keep approximately 300 labels on hand at all times. They’ll mingle with you and may even encourage you to sing along with the stereo. For a full on dining experience with an equally adequate wine list check out their full-on Trattoria on Lai 32.QB‑5, Ra‑ taskaevu 4, tel. +372 646 21 07, www.osteriagallonero. com. Open 12:00-22:00. BSJ6W Wine Not? This chic little wine bar is just the kind of place to spend a relaxed evening while enjoying a glass of wine and some great tapas. The bar specialises mainly in Portuguese wine, but what makes Wine Not? different from the rest is that you can try any bottle before you buy.QB‑4, Lai 6, tel. +372 600 32 22, www.winenot.ee. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-01:30; closed Mon, Sun. BJ6W Time to Wine Bar & Shop While wine bars have been opening up all over the place in Tallinn, Time to Wine stands out from rest, as it’s the only “self-service” wine bar. What does that mean exactly? There are 22 different wines to choose from, which you can drink as much or as little of, as you like. It’s all registered on a chip card. If that’s not enough, there are many more bottles to choose from, which you can take home to try instead.QA‑3, Kopli 6, tel. +372 55 51 81 50, www. timetowine.ee. Open 14:00-23:00; Mon 15:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00; Sun 15:00-21:00. €€. 54 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Peetri Pizza A local favourite, Peetri offers pizzas that we find - well, passable. Apart from this fairly simple café, it has various branches and stands all over town just in case you need that cheesy fix.QC‑5, Vana-Posti 2, tel. +372 58 55 87 87, www.peetripizza.ee. Open 11:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-04:00. Also at: E-2, Roosikrantsi 23, tel. +372 660 26 26. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 04:00. SJ Tommi Tavern Primarily known for its reasonably priced lunches and excellent grilled meat, Tommi Tavern also doubles as a pretty decent and cosy pub for grabbing some drinks and appetisers with friends before you hit the town.QK‑8, Tatari 64, tel. +372 625 78 16, www. tommitavern.ee. Open 11:00-05:00; Thu, Fri 11:0007:00. PBS

Clubs Tallinn has quite a bit to offer on the club-scene. From tacky to cutting edge, you’ll certainly find something that fits your needs. The regular admittance age to most clubs is 18+, exceptions are listed at the end of our review. NB! Due to Covid-19 restrictions night clubs were not yet open at the time of publishing. To avoid disappointment, we suggest checking the website before heading out. Café Amigo Surprisingly hip and happening for a hotel club, Amigo attracts a good mix of Finnish tourists and local party animals who tend to be slightly older than the typical club monkeys. The big draw here are the live rock and blues bands - the country’s best-loved names - that play here Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Before bands come one, DJs spin all your favorite pop dance hits from the 70s to nowadays, and always manage to fill the floor with a cross-generational crowd.QE‑5, Viru väljak 4, (Original Sokos Hotel Viru), tel. +372 680 93 80, www.amigo.ee. Open 22:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission €7 - 10. Age restriction 21+. XUE W

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Nightlife wearing the amount of clothing a girl who can only afford €2 drinks might be wearing.QC‑5, Müürivahe 22, www. clubmynt.eu. Open Wed, Thu 23:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. Closed Mon - Tue, Sun. Admission €7 - 9. J Club Studio Young, hip and one helluva queue to get into the place kind of gives you the idea of what Studio is all about. Probably the most popular place at the moment for the 18-25 crowd, Studio actually pumps out some pretty quality music from genres most of us ‘old’ people have never heard of. If you enjoy a youthful and fun vibe, you’ll fit in just fine. QC‑5, Sauna 1, tel. +372 55 99 25 57, www.clubstudio. ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-04:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €10. Age restriction 20+. XJW Club Baila This little dance club in the heart of Old Town certainly does its best to make their clients feel like they’re relaxing, or partying it up on a tropical island somewhere instead of the somewhat chilly streets of Tallinn. From the moment you enter the door you’re greeted by a tropical aquarium, Latin rhythms and an atmosphere painted in the colours of paradise, as well as the obligatory, large tropical plants one might expect. Even the practically all-blonde female serving staff are decked out in striped sailor-tops, just adding that extra something to the vibe. The cuisine is also ‘topical-getaway’ inspired and the music will make you want to shake your money-makers, or at the very least watch others shake theirs. A huge selection of signature cocktails as well.QC‑5, Sauna 1, tel. +372 641 04 60, www.bailabaila.ee. Open Fri, Sat 22:30-05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. XJW Club Hollywood If there’s one club in Tallinn that’s guaranteed to be jumping, it’s Hollywood. Located in a historical theatre, this melting-pot for tourists, and Tallinn’s young and youngat-heart party crowd, usually ends up being a full-house. Featuring loads of funky events as well as some great local and international djs on the decks, it’s hard not to get your groove on. Their VIP experience is excellent and they boast the largest video screen in Estonia - making a night out here a worthy expedition. Wednesday night is ladies night, i.e. free entrance for the fairer sex, which pretty much guarantees a good time for the lads as well. See website for full programme and VIP details.QC‑5, Vana-Posti 8, tel. +372 59 12 42 00, www.clubhollywood.ee. Open Wed, Thu 23:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue. Admission €5 - 10. XEJ Club Münt Münt, which means both mint and coin in Estonian, probably won’t leave your breath fresh and tasty but certainly will leave more coin in your pocket as they offer up €2 drinks. Expect all the grown-up fun that a place offering such cheap drinks has to offer and a healthy dose of girls facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Klubi Teater Currently one of our favourites and one of the most interesting and elaborate clubs in Tallinn, Teater takes advantage of its location in an old theatre and certainly provides the club-goer with a theatrical experience. The décor is 1930’s-inspired, the large cigar lounge is a nice touch as are the ‘showgirls’. Drinks can tend to be a bit pricey, but the overall ambiance, live performances and the opportunity to mingle with an upwardly mobile and more mature crowd makes it all worth it. There’s a swanky VIP lounge for cardholders (can be ordered online or for an extra fee at the door) and a lounge within a club called Taboo.QC‑6, Vabaduse väljak 5, tel. +372 56 88 44 44, www.klubiteater.ee. Open Fri, Sat 24:00-05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €8 - 15. Age restriction 21+. XEW Privé Along with Teater, the smaller Privé is considered one of Tallinn’s three trendiest club destinations. Each night of the weekend promises a very cool scene where you’ll hear the region’s or world’s hottest DJs and other fun events. Ask about their VIP packages.QB‑6, Harju 6, tel. +372 56 70 59 99, www.prive.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €9 - 15. Age restric‑ tion 20+. XEJ Venus Club Rows of classical cherub statues added to an Arabian desert motif are certainly over the top, but we think the überkitsch decor helps to create a great party atmosphere. Open three days a week, indeed the party never seems to stop. The excellent bartenders mix fantastic cocktails and there are loads of special events to keep things hopping and interesting. This place is really all about having a great time and the vibe here isn’t as serious as some of the ‘Elite’ clubs in town - which is in our opinion a good thing. It’s also one of the few clubs in town where you can often find people dancing before midnight. QD‑5, Vana-Viru 14, tel. +372 551 99 99, www.venusclub.ee. Open Thu 23:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission €4 - 8. Age restriction 21+. XJ Summer 2020

Hotels Tallinn’s hospitality industry has pretty much reached capacity and the total number of rooms sits at over 7800. For the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has never been better, and the room rates are also likely to remain competitive. With the exception of the five-star hotels listed in the Cream of the Crop category, the price bands used refer to the rack rate for a double room.

Cream of the crop Hotel Telegraaf This full-service hotel in a restored 19th-century former bank turned communications building has facilities that include a wellness spa, a Russian-style restaurant and an unheard-of Old Town luxury: underground parking! The ultra comfortable rooms are more spacious than typical for an Old Town hotel, you might however be tempted to spend a little bit too much time in the bathrooms decorated with ‘French’ post cards’.QC‑4, Vene 9, tel. +372 600 06 00, www.telegraafhotel.com. PGU IJR6WKHCDhhhhh Schlössle The elegance, history and warmth of its three attached Old Town buildings are a major part of Schlössle’s five-star appeal. Over the past decade this luxury hotel has played host to musicians and heads of state, but even if you aren’t rock or royalty, the helpful and friendly staff will treat you as such. A beautiful medieval lobby, a crackling fireplace and a world class restaurant invite you to linger and stay just one more night.QC‑4, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. +372 699 77 00, www.schloesslehotel.com. ZPGUI J6WKHD hhhhh The Three Sisters Hotel This luxury hotel built into three famous medieval houses on the end of Pikk tänav provides the quintessential Tallinn experience. The top-notch establishment offers large rooms decorated in a striking blend of modern and antique styles. Flat-screen TVs can be found alongside oldfashioned bathtubs and hidden staircases. One suite even sports a grand piano. The staff will cater to your every whim here and almost every request a guest might have will be taken care of. The world-class SÖE restaurant is just icing on an already delicious cake. Beware though, if you do check-in, you may never want to leave.QC‑3, Pikk 71/ Tolli 2, tel. +372 630 63 00, www.3s.ee. GUJR6 WKH hhhhh

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning Z Anti-allergy rooms O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Free parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old Town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

Spa hotels Each of the spa hotels below offers accommodation as well as treatment packages and day spa services. Prices here are for accommodation only, check their websites for details on their package deals. Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park The newly renovated Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park is back open for business. This favourite Old Town spa and hotel has everything you need for a relaxing weekend or lazy afternoon. New additions include the spacious restaurant Allee with a terrace overlooking Kanuti park, a fabulous water park, a sauna and jacuzzi area, as well as a Health & Beauty Centre. All rooms are bright and offer all the comforts you may need. If you’re travelling with kids, ask about rooms with pull-down bunk beds. The room price also includes unlimited use of the water park and gym. QD‑4, Aia 18 / Kanuti 2, tel. +372 649 33 00, www.kalevspa.ee. ZP G U J R 6 W KC D Fwi Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel Gigantic sirens flanking the doors and a bright, groovy lobby bar are your first clues that this place is far bolder than your average spa hotel. Apart from its signature Aqua Spa, spa packages and guest rooms - some of which overlook the decadent pool bar in the hotel’s central atrium - the high-tech establishment near the passenger port offers seven conference rooms and a beauty salon.QE‑2, Sadama 11a, tel. +372 630 10 00, www.tallinkhotels. com/tallink-spa-conference-hotel. PGTUR WKHCD hhhh

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Hotels Over €100 Merchant’s House This beautiful structure is essentially a 14th century merchant’s house turned into a luxury, boutique-style hotel, so don’t be surprised if you get lost in the twists and turns of its corridors. Each of its rooms and suites has been done up with cool, chic decor, tastefully fitted to the historic building. Look for creature comforts like plasma TVs, high-speed Internet and fluffy bathrobes. You’ll also find a ‘relax room’, a design shop and café.QB‑5, Dunkri 4/6, tel. +372 697 75 00, www. merchantshousehotel.com. ZG I J R W H Dw My City Hotel One of the finest examples of a beautiful, Stalin-era building next to the Sőprus cinema, My City Hotel offers marblesque stylishness right in the heart of Old Town. In fact this hotel is right in the middle of Tallinn’s entertainment district. You’ll also find lots of extras right in the hotel and breakfast is served in-room by request. Business travellers will appreciate the small conference facilities and free WIFI throughout the hotel. Pricier superior rooms are more spacious and have better views and are equipped with coffee making facilities. Little car park has also 2 charging points for electrical cars.QC‑5, Vana-Posti 11, tel. +372 622 09 00, www. mycityhotel.ee. ZP J 6 W K H D hhhh Nordic Hotel Forum You certainly won’t be able to miss this stylish, brassflanked glass structure which has 137m of cedar trees lining the roof. The hotel’s interior is thoughtfully designed, using natural materials, which ooze warmth and comfort throughout. The premises are outfitted with the latest in communication and entertainment technology. It also boasts a beautiful spa and excellent, Mediterranean restaurant. The hotel is also leading the way in urban beekeeping in Tallinn with six hives that are home to over 360,000 bees on the roof. The Forum’s friendly staff have been carefully selected to make sure travellers who pass through its doors are well looked after - and they certainly are.QE‑5, Viru väljak 3, tel. +372 622 29 00/(+372) 622 29 99, www.nordichotels. eu. PG U I L J W K H C D F hhhh Original Sokos Hotel Viru Occupying an enviable spot on what’s generally considered the very centre of Tallinn, the large, Finnish-managed Original Sokos Hotel Viru offers an unbeatable combination of amenities and location. Aside from several classes of spiffy rooms, a conference centre, two respectable restaurants and a popular nightclub, the hotel also has direct access to the huge Viru shopping centre, which can satisfy even the deepest of retail cravings. Rooms are furnished in a colourful, friendly style.QD‑5, Viru väljak 4, tel. +372 680 93 00, www. sokoshotels.com. PG U L J R 6 W K H D facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Radisson Blu Sky Hotel The first Radisson hotel in Tallinn has been recently refurbished and naturally they continue to provide their guests with everything one might expect from this international chain and it’s immaculate attention to detail. From the stylish furnishings to little touches like shoe buffers in the corridor they never miss a beat. Other perks here include sweeping views of the city and a free morning sauna. The hotel has a definite business bent with its 10 conference rooms and office services.QE‑6, Rävala pst. 3, tel. +372 682 30 00, www. radissonhotels.com/en-us/hotels/radisson-blutallinn. ZP G U R W K H D Fw The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn A trend setter with its too-cool style and creature comforts, The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn offers well-outfitted and comfortable rooms just steps away from Toompea. They have several classes of rooms available, but our personal favourite happens to be the larger ‘Zen’ rooms - which offer extra perks such as slippers, bathrobes and aromatherapy amenities to spoil your inner child. The level of service here is also top-notch. QJ‑7, Toompuiestee 23, tel. +372 660 07 00, www. vonstackelberghotel.com. ZP I R 6 W K H CDw

Price €60 - 100 Hektor Container Hotel This stylish container hotel is the first of its kind in Estonia and appropriately situated in the heart of the trendy Telliskivi area. The containers are stacked inside an old warehouse. Areas around the containers are set up as places to relax and unwind, and the dimmable LED lighting imitates day and night. Each container is equipped with all the basics of a great room - a bathroom with shower, a big and comfy double bed, a desk and chair, TV, and storage under the bed for your things. Check-in and check-out are both self-service. For an extra fee, you can enjoy a hearty breakfast in the funky hotel lobby. Or use the co-cooking space, which just invites you to cook a feast, and help yourself to as much coffee as you’d like. If style and comfort, as well as a low ecological footprint, are important to you, the Hektor Container Hotel is a great choice.QJ‑7, Tel‑ liskivi 62, tel. +372 635 00 61, www.hektorstay.com/ container. 6W H ibis Tallinn Center ibis Tallinn offers all the basic comforts you would expect from this international chain. Centrally located just outside of the Old Town, the rooms are functional, comfortable and clean. All rooms have been specially designed to keep outdoor noise to a minimum. Ask about one of five rooms with a sauna when booking. QL‑8, Juhkentali 28, tel. +372 699 44 99, www. ibistallinncenter.ee. doubles €65 - 80. ZP U W KH Summer 2020

Hotels Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel Offering everything you could possibly want in an Old Town establishment - including two entrances on entirely different streets. The hotel blends perfectly together the charms of the old world with the conveniences we find handy in our modern times. In typical Old Town fashion, no two rooms are exactly the same, which just adds to the charm. You’ll also find the mouth-watering cakes of café Pikk 29 on the premises, as well as the Nordic/Estonian Trofé restaurant and a pretty nifty public toilet, complete with an ancient well.QC‑4, Lai 24/ Pikk 29, tel. +372 664 88 00, www.meritonhotels.com. ZUJWKH

Under €60 Although there are loads of hostels around town, the free-spirited often communal living feel of them is not for everyone - especially if you are looking for something a little more private. Here are some alternatives.

Hostels Due to the nature of hostels, they seem to come and go from year to year and new ones are popping up all the time. Likewise they also close down quite frequently and or change their names. Although not a complete list, here we have listed some of the more important and or centrally located ones. Academic Hostel If you like affordable and comfortable accommodation with great service, the Academic Hostel is just for you. This hostel is well suited for both individual guests and families. It’s located about 5 km from the city centre, on the grounds of the Tallinn University of Technology. You will find excellent sports facilities as well as other amenities nearby. Take trolleybus N°3 from Vabaduse väljak to the Keemia stop. Twin room €37, breakfast €4.QAkadeemia tee 11/1, tel. +372 620 22 75, www.academichostel.com. GU L R 6W i

Go Hotel Shnelli This starkly modern, seven-storey hotel is attached to Tallinn’s newly revamped railway station, which happens to have a great location just outside the Old Town walls. All rooms are done in a simple, no-nonsense style. The ‘superior class’ rooms on the upper floors have beautiful views of Toompea hill. Train buffs should book a room in the slightly cheaper ‘standard class’ rooms overlooking the tracks. Try the restaurant and day spa.QA‑4, Toom‑ puiestee 37, tel. +372 631 01 02, www.gohotels.ee. ZGUL6WKHw Hestia Hotel Ilmarine Just a hop across the street from Old Town, this hotel brings a touch of class to the renewed port area the Ilmarine spoils its guests with spacious suites, charming standard rooms and an airy atrium/café. Par for the course in Estonia, free WIFI is available in all rooms and mini-offices are available for business guests. Onsite gym and a relaxation area are also certainly big plusses. Kids under 12 stay free.QC‑2, Pőhja pst. 21b, tel. +372 614 09 00, www. hestiahotels.com/ilmarine. ZPGUR6WK HF Tallink Express Hotel The smart-looking structure 300m from the passenger port is home to a sparklingly modern and orderly hotel that caters to visitors who want easy access to both the Old Town and to Helsinki-bound ships. Guests are treated to free wireless internet, and should consider trying out the hotel’s famed soup buffet.QE‑2, Sadama 9, tel. +372 667 87 00, www.tallinkhotels.com/tallink-express-hotel. GTURWK hhh

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Cheerful rooms at Academic Hostel

Capsule Hostels Tallinn Ever wonder what it’s like to sleep in a spaceship? A night in the Capsule Hostel can give you a glimpse. Capsule Hostels Tallinn offers spaceship-like pods complete with TV, free wifi, and air-conditioning. All rooms have shared bathrooms with free toiletries, as well as the use of a shared kitchen. It is certainly not your average hostel! QJ‑9, Pärnu mnt. 106, tel. +372 501 77 81, www. capsulehostels.eu. Old Town Hostel Alur Touted as being the ‘biggest’ hostel in Old Town, the Alur has everything you’d want in a hostel plus an awesome courtyard where you can bbq in the summer - or winter if that’s your thing. They’ve even got brand-spanking-new showers, newly renovated modern rooms that come with their own bed linen. Alur Hostel has a kitchen, internet, and an outdoor terrace. Staff are available 24/7 just in case you need anything.QC‑4, Lai 20, tel. +372 646 62 10, www.toth.ee/old-town-hostel-alur/. IJ R W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Shopping & Directory

Staapli 3 Art Gallery and Art Cafe - bringing a splash of colour to your life! Please see review on page 60. Photo: Andrei Chertkov

There are plenty of opportunities to spend money shopping in Tallinn. Old Town is literally lined with dozens of souvenir, antique and speciality stores. Within Old Town the main shopping streets are Viru, Müürivahe, Suur-Karja, Väike-Karja and Kullassepa. The most central shopping centre is Viru Centre with Tallinna Kaubamaja department store right next door. Alongside its stunning, ‘new meets old’ architecture, the Rotermann Quarter features dozens of unique shopping and dining experiences. Other smaller malls include the Foorum Centre and the Solaris Centre.

excellent items on display and do a lot of business through E-Bay.QD‑4, Aia 4, tel. +372 644 35 36, www.shifara-antique.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun.

Antiques

Apollo bookstore A good selection of English-language novels and travel guides.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 633 60 00, www.apollo.ee. Open 10:0021:00.

Tallinn’s antique stores sell a vast variety of items, from old Russian Orthodox icons to antique fire heated clothing irons. There’s lots of china and glassware, antique clocks and even some decent jewellery available. But you will need patience and dedication to make you way through the dozens of antique stores scattered throughout the Old Town and city centre. Idla Antiik One of the more upscale antique shops in Old Town, they actually have two branches and a great selection online. Excellent variety.QC‑4, Pikk 30, tel. +372 58 50 10 90, www. idla.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun. Reval Antiik Good selection, primarily if you’re interested in things to hang on your wall or put in a display case.QB‑6, Harju 13 (entrance at Müürivahe 2), tel. +372 644 07 47/+372 511 88 25, www.revalantiik.ee. Open 10:00-17:45; Sat 10:0016:00; closed Sun. Shifara Antiques and Art Gallery Probably the most museum-like out of any of the antiques shops in Old Town, they certainly have some facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Bookshops You won’t find a great selection of books in English or other foreign languages in Tallinn, but you won’t be left without any reading material either.

Raamatukoi Specialising in antique books.QC‑5, Harju 1, tel. +372 683 77 10, www.raamatukoi.ee. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. Rahva Raamat Rahva Raamat has probably the best selection of English books in Estonia. With two levels (the first floor has a 1930s feel with plenty of cosy corners for reading), two cafés, and plenty of, well, books, it’s easy to get lost in a good story here. QC‑6, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. +372 644 36 82, www.rahvaraamat.ee. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Siuru REaD REaD is just the curious bookshop you want to tuck into and find a good book, especially with prices like 1 book for €3 or 4 books for €10.QC‑4, Pikk 34, tel. +372 55 65 33 22. Open 12:00-18:00. Summer 2020

Shopping & Directory Commercial galleries and art shops Asuur Keraamika Located inside one of Tallinn’s medieval defence towers - Asuur might just be one of the most unique ceramic boutiques/workshops around.QB‑3, Kooli 7, tel. +372 646 40 96, www.asuurkeraamika.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun. Bogapott Not only is it a cosy little café (see Cafés), it’s also an artist’s studio, where you can see the craftsmen at work and a gallery/shop where you can view and purchase their unique hand-crafted, earthen wares.QB‑5, Pikk jalg 9, tel. +372 631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Thu, Sun.

made with love Estonian Folk Art and Craft Union handicraft centers & shops Selection of beautiful and high-quality crafted items by master craftsmen from all over Estonia. Qtel. +372 631 40 76, www.folkart.ee. Kaarmanni Handicraft, (C-5) Vanaturu kael 8, open 11:00 - 19:00; Estonian Handicraft House, (C-4) Pikk 22, open 10:00 - 18:00; Allikamaja Handicraft, (B-5) Lühike jalg 6a, open 11:00 - 18:00.

Fe Gallery At Fe Gallery, you can find a variety of quirky and classical pieces by local artists including metal, ceramics, glass, textiles, and jewellery.QC-4, Hobusepea 10, tel. +372 53 44 79 22, www.artfe.eu. Open 11:0018:00. Helina Tilk Joyful hand-painted porcelain, glass and ceramics by an Estonian artist.QPikk 41, tel. +372 641 45 15, http://www.helinatilk.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue, Wed.

Estonian design

Kunstiaken This gallery and shop offers textiles, glass, ceramics, leather, and more, all designed and made by Estonian artists.QC‑4, Vene 20, tel. +372 646 42 09, www. kunstiaken.ee. Open 10:00-18:00.

Although we haven’t made a final count of all the souvenir shops and boutiques in Old Town there appear to be thousands of them. This makes it pretty hard for the tourist, not to mention locals, to find souvenirs, fashion, art and other handicrafts that are truly Estonian - either made here or conceived and designed here. Listed below you can find a number of shops, products and boutiques that specialise in bringing authentic Estonian goods to the public.

Lühikese Jala Galerii Beautifully displayed ceramics, glass and textiles. QB‑5, Lühike jalg 6, tel. +372 631 47 20, www. t6nis2.wixsite.com/lj-galerii. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-17:00.

A-galerii Estonian-designed jewellery and fashion accessories. QC‑4, Hobusepea 2, tel. +372 646 41 01, www. agalerii.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun.

Okapi An art and design gallery that also functions as a glass studio. They sell Estonian applied arts, photography, design and graphic works.QB‑5, Niguliste 2, tel. +372 56 88 14 34, www.okapi.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

Estonian Design House The Estonian Design House showcases the best of Estonian product design from interior accessories to fashion and is run by the Estonian Association of Designers.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris), tel. +372 53 57 11 50, www.estoniandesignhouse.ee. Open 10:00-21:00.

Staapli 3 Art Gallery and Art Café This Noblessner Port area commercial gallery and café has something for every taste and budget, served up with a side of coffee and cake. Read more on what Noblessner has to offer on page 31.QJ‑6, Staapli 3-114, tel. +372 660 22 11, www.staapliart.ee. Open 10:0020:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00-20:00. 60 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Oma Asi Design This design/concept/lifestyle store features carefully chosen jewellery, fashion, home decor and accessories made by local and international artists. If you’re looking for something a little different, this is the place to come. QD‑5, Viru 21. Open 11:00 - 19:00. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Shopping & Directory Reet Aus Ethical Estonian design with an emphasis on re-using or upcycling materials.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 62, tel. +372 56 50 70 22, www.reetaus.com. Open 10:00-18:00. Sat 11:0018:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

alcohol

Tallinn Design House The Tallinn Design House showcases the best of Estonian design from fashion apparel, jewellery, handbags, footwear, organic cosmetics, ceramics to furniture, interior design accessories and interior lighting. The unique interactive showroom acts as a multifunctional art space, for presentations, events, and meetups. QE‑4, Rotermanni 14, tel. +372 58 65 05 58, www. tallinndesignhouse.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Y

Liviko store & more Estonia’s largest and longest running alcohol producer runs a few of its own stores stocked, naturally, full of their own products and imported wares at competitive prices.QD‑4, Mere pst. 6, tel. +372 683 77 45, www. alcostore.ee. Open 10:00-20:00. Also at: G-4, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 683 77 40. Also at: G-4, Lootsi 8, tel. 660 5986.

The Smallest Shop in Town Local design shop where you can find anything from unique gifts, organic cosmetics, toys, interior details to art and pet goods.QC‑5, Raekoja plats 18, tel. +372 565 30 06. Open 10:30-18:30.

Gifts & Souvenirs The difficult challenge of selecting souvenirs that possess some practical use is actually possible to achieve in Tallinn. However, just as in any town heavily reliant on tourism, you could also go poor buying useless crap or items that really have nothing to do with Estonia, such as the ever prevalent Russian nesting doll. Just like the nesting doll, Old Town is filled with souvenir shops, some even inside other souvenir shops. Here we have listed just a few that specialise in various gift items. DEKO Local design and small factory production is tastefully combined at DEKO, where you can find unique handmade gifts items and lots of cool retro stuff too.QB‑5, Voorimehe 1, tel. +372 56 80 90 85. Open 12:00 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Estonian House Located in the Old Town, Estonian House sells beautiful handicrafts directly from the artists who produce them. QC‑4, Pikk 15, tel. +372 600 67 15. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Estonia Shop This souvenir shop features different sections devoted to various handicrafts such as leather goods, local delicacies, wood items etc. The craftsmen sell their own wares and you won’t find any ‘Russian nesting dolls’ or other non-Estonian souvenirs for sale here - a plus in our books.QC‑5, Viru 3, tel. +372 640 40 37, www. estonianshop.com/en. Open 10:00-20:00. Hää Eesti Asi Everything for sale in this large souvenir shop was either designed or produced in Estonia. From food and facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Please note that alcohol sales in Tallinn are prohibited from 22:00 until 10:00.

Rein Kasela Wine Room This charming wine room offers an exclusive selection of wines from Europe, but their focus is certainly on French wines. You’ll also be able to find some excellent Cognacs, Calvados, Grappas, Marsala and dessert wines.QE‑4, Rotermanni 14, tel. +372 501 45 47, www.manipenny.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. Taptap Tallinn With over 230 different bottles from Estonia and abroad, this is a must-visit for any beer lover. Taptap also has six taps and serves Danish-style hot dogs.QE‑4, Rotermanni 2, tel. +372 53 03 95 53, www.taptap.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Uba ja Humal This shop serves up both great coffees and superb craft beers. They feature one of the widest varieties of quality Estonian beers, alongside some truly excellent caffeinated beans from around the world.QC‑2, Võrgu 3, tel. +372 56 94 21 42. Open 10:00-22:00; Mon, Tue 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. drink to handicrafts - it can all be found here.QD‑5, Viru 23, tel. +372 56 98 63 84. Open 10:00-20:00. Katariina Guild Various artisan shops/workshops, including a glass studio, ceramics studio, textile studio and hat workshop among others. You can witness the creation of the products on site.QC‑4, Vene 12/Katariina käik, www. katariinagild.eu. Opening hours for each studio can be found from website. Labora A gift shop filled with local handmade goods, including letterpress printed greeting cards, special seed cards which you can later grow into wild flowers, mechanical wooden toys, icons, calligraphy books, limp binding notebooks and much more.QC‑4, Vene 18, tel. +372 58 80 10 98, www.labora.ee. Open 10:00-18:00. Summer 2020

Shopping & Directory Groceries Delice The grocery store at Solaris shopping centre not only offers a wide selection of dry and frozen international food, there is also a huge variety of vegan products, including ready-made foods.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 663 13 30, www.delice.ee. Open 09:00-23:00. Kolmjalg (the Everything Store) Conveniently located in the Old Town, this small grocer will help you in a pinch with all the basics.QB‑4, Rataskaevu 2, tel. +372 631 15 11. Open 24hrs. Maxima Express This two-level grocery store offers a good selection of ready-made food, snacks, and souvenirs, in addition to regular groceries.QC‑5, Viru 4, www.maxima.ee. Open 08:00-22:00. Prisma Prisma’s Old Town location is one of the larger grocery stores in the city centre. Open 24/7, this shop covers all your basic grocery needs.QD‑5, Aia 3, www. prismamarket.ee. Open 24hrs. Rimi One of the largest grocery chains in Estonia.QC‑3, Aia 7, tel. +372 644 38 55, www.rimi.ee. Open 08:0023:00. Also at: C-4, Pikk 11, tel. +372 55 58 90 04. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Also at: C-5. Viru 13/15. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Also at: K-7, Ahtri 9 (Nautica). Open 08:00 - 23:00.

pharmacies BENU Apteek A centrally-located pharmacy to suit all your health needs.QD‑4, Aia 7, tel. +372 648 41 99, www. benu.ee. Open 08:30-19:30. Sat 10:00-17:00. Closed Sun. Also at: C-4, Narva mnt. 1, tel. +372 613 07 00. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Euroapteek QB‑6, Vabaduse väljak 10, tel. +372 646 30 41, www.euroapteek.ee. Open 10:00-19:00. Sat 10:0015:00, Closed Sun. Tõnismäe Apteek The most central pharmacy that stays open all night. QJ‑8, Tőnismägi 5, tel. +372 644 22 82, www. sudameapteek.ee. Open 24hrs.

62 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Olde Hansa Shoppe This great medieval shop, brought to us by the folks at Olde Hansa, features authentic wares such as hand-blown glass, hand-crafted pottery, leather items and even spirits. All of the bits and pieces here have been recreated based on countless hours of research and are replicas of items used by actual townsfolk in the days of yore. The items are even functional, which is pretty cool in our books.QC‑5, Vanaturu kael 12, tel. +372 627 90 40, www.shoppe.ee. Open 11:00-21:00. Oma Asi ‘The Little Red House’ Located in a cute little house just off the main square, Oma Asi is home to the work of Estonia’s most talented designers and artists, aiming to bring quality, yet affordable and unique products to customers. The shop stocks the work of over 70 local artists and about 5 guest designers. QC‑4, Saiakang 4, www.omaasi.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon - Thu.

Home design Muulin This Estonian family business specialises in handmade items for people who appreciate organic and sustainably-produced high-quality fabrics. Muulin has a great selection of items in a variety of styles for any room in your house. Muulin Child offers lovely, unique, playful and comfortable handmade dresses for all occasions, for girls (80– 128 cm tall). All fabrics are made from soft and durable organic linen and cotton blend.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 9, tel. +372 55 58 57 47, www.muulin.ee. Open 10:00-18:00. Zizi Table and bed dressings for the style-conscious.QC‑4, Vene 12, tel. +372 644 12 22, www.zizi.ee. Open 10:0018:00; Sun 10:00-16:00.

Knits & Linen Rewill All the handicrafts in this tiny shop can be made to order. QC‑5, Vene 7, tel. +372 631 33 62, www.rewill.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. Y Suva Socks and stocking featuring Ethnic patterns.QE‑6, Kaub‑ amaja 3, tel. +372 644 32 27, www.suva.ee. Open 09:0021:00. WOOLISH This designer Estonian knitwear and home textile brand is all about comfort and style. QC‑5, Harju 1, www.woolish. ee. Open 12:00-19:00. Sat, Sun 11:00-16:00, Closed Mon.

Check for more shopping listings: tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Shopping & Directory Markets

Shopping centres

Baltic Station market Just a short jaunt from Old Town, the trendy Balti Jaam market brings close to 300 different retailers and smaller producers together, offering the most fresh, interesting, and exotic goods, all under one roof. Wander through the open-air market where you’ll find a great selection of produce. Inside, the meat, dairy and seafood halls offer a wide selection of primarily local products - as well as some of the freshest imported ingredients. You’ll also find a whole street food section and several eateries, with a lot of different vendors to choose from. Don’t forget about the antiques, clothing, shoes, handicrafts, brewery, supermarket, and fitness club as well - you might even be tempted to spend the whole day here, and there’s plenty of parking available in order to do just that. QA‑3, Kopli 1, tel. +372 641 34 36, www.astri.ee/bjt. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun 09:00-17:00. Street food area open daily 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Second floor opens from 10:00 daily.

Shopping malls of various sorts have sprouted up all over town. Here’s a bit of direction for serious shoppers. Kristiine Centre This bustling shopping mall has a wide mix of shops and services, including a large Prisma grocery store. It also houses O’Learys, the biggest entertainment centre in Estonia for sports events, virtual games and dining.QJ‑8, Endla 45, tel. +372 665 91 00, www.kristiinekeskus.ee. Open 10:00-21:00. Prisma grocery store open 08:00 - 23:00. Nautica With close to 60 shops and a large Rimi Hypermarket, the only one in the city centre, and a large Calle liquor store, this makes Nautica a convenient place to shop between the port and the city centre. On top of great fashion brands along with Estonian design, there are also plenty of places to get a bite to eat and you can entertain yourself at Park Minigolf or get pampered at Aulis beauty salon. QK‑7, Ahtri 9, www.nautica.ee. Open 09:00-20:00.

Nautica Baltic Station Market

Central market (Keskturg) A popular destination for fresh food items. Also has clothing and other assorted ‘treasures’. Take tram N°4 from the centre towards Ülemiste, make sure to get off at the Keskturg stop.QL‑8, Keldrimäe 9. Open 07:00-17:00. Depoo Located just around the corner from Baltic Station Market, Depoo features an impressive container hotel, as well as a street food area.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 62, www.astri.ee/depoo/. Sadama Turg Various Estonian handicrafts and food items can be found at this market in the port area.QK‑6, Sadama 25, www. sadamaturg.ee. Open 09:00-19:00.

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Solaris Solaris is both an entertainment complex that comes complete with a state of the art cinema, concert hall, and shopping centre with several local design stores and great places to eat. In fact the only thing it doesn’t have is a hotel and if it did, there would be really no reason to leave. QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9, tel. +372 615 51 00, www. solaris.ee. Open 09:00-23:00. Shops open 11:00-19:00. Restaurants open 11:00-21:00. Ülemiste Centre Ülemiste centre is the most popular shopping centre in Tallinn with its cosy atmosphere and many opportunities for leisure. It’s truly a one-stop shopping centre with everything from a grocery store and electronics, to shoes and clothing for the whole family. There’s tons of great places to eat, to suit even the pickiest of eaters, as well as plenty of entertainment like the Apollo cinema and an indoor play area for kids. For serious shoppers, it’s worth the short trip from the centre. To get there take bus N°15 from the Viru bus terminal to Ülemiste jaam stop or tram N°4 from Viru stop (A-4) to the Ülemiste linnak stop. QM‑8, Suur-Sőjamäe 4, next to Tallinn Airport, tel. +372 603 49 99, www.ulemiste.ee. Open 10:00-21:00. Summer 2020

Living in Tallinn

We hope you’ve enjoyed your visit to Tallinn - we think it’s a charming city full of surprises and excitement, and we hope you agree. If you’ve had a good time as a visitor here, whether you came on a business trip, or as a tourist, maybe you ought to consider living and working in the Estonian capital, where doing business is simple and efficient. It’s easy to get to work here in Tallinn, and there are many organisations ready and waiting to help you as well as services like Settle in Estonia Programme.

recruiters regularly post advertisements, and it’s also a place where jobseekers can be sure hundreds, sometimes thousands, of people will see their posts. Also operating in Tallinn and helping people settling in Estonia with the administrative workload, and all other matters related to adaptation, is Expat Relocation Estonia, which offers a wide range of services for those who have relocated, or are about to relocate. It’s staffed by Estonians who have a strong corporate background, and is worth a look.

Settle in Estonia Programme is a state provided and free of charge national programme, designed to make it easy as possible for newly arrived foreigners to join in with Estonian life, and to get used to the business, study and leisure culture. Participating in the programme will give you a wealth of information on everyday life in Estonia, plus how to study at university, how to get lessons in the Estonian language, and much more.

The International House of Estonia is a one-stop-shop for internationals in Estonia. The Centre facilitates communication with the state, provides counselling and aims to help create a network. The services provided are aimed at internationals (mainly specialists) who have come to Estonia to work or to study, but there are also services for families and companies looking to hire international talent.

There’s plenty of additional information on online resources about life in Tallinn. One of the best places to go is good old Facebook - the social network is still a great way to find out about places and events, wherever you are. One of the more informative groups is Expats in Tallinn/Estonia, which carries hints and tips on everything. Be warned: although the group is, shall we say, enthusiastically moderated, you may get the occasional spiky response to a standard query. Don’t let it put you off - this is a mine of worthwhile information.

Everyone needs to let their hair down from time to time, and the CS Tallinn Facebook group, linked to the global Couchsurfing network, always has a meeting or event in a restaurant or bar that you can attend, even if you’re not a member of the parent site. The International Table, happening weekly at cafes and bars across Tallinn, is a get-to-know-you event organised by youth and student leadership organisation AIESEC in Estonia, but you will find that everyone is welcome. Finally, InterNations is a long-established international community for expats, and it holds monthly meetings at which there is often a high concentration of IT and startup employees, but where you can doubtless find someone who has something in common with your own experiences.

There’s also the excellent independent blog Expat in Estonia. This is filled with compelling content on everything from what to do on a cold autumn day, right through to the thorny question of how to find housing in Estonia if you’re coming into the country. For serious business queries and help finding work, the Expat Jobs in Tallinn Facebook group is ideal, given that it’s where 64 Tallinn In Your Pocket

There’s no need to worry about healthcare. The family physician advisory line offers service in English. The advisory line is mainly intended for minor healthcare contallinn.inyourpocket.com

Living in Tallinn cerns, but with the permission of the patient, the doctor can access digital health records to provide more personalised service. The service is available 24/7 by calling +372 634 66 30 or 1220. All newly relocated foreign nationals can get advice on healthcare in Estonia from Estonian Health Board consultant Andrei by e-mail at Andrei.Petuhhov@terviseamet.ee or by calling +372 794 3500. You’ve probably got lots of questions about what it’s like to live in Tallinn. Nothing ever stands still in this compact capital, but online, there’s also all the assistance you could need in getting to grips with life in this corner of Europe. Start with Settle in Estonia Programme, and remember, whatever you need to know, there’s a one-stop resource to which you can reach out for answers.

organisations Estonian Language House Estonian is a truly unique language, but learning it can be quite daunting. The Estonian Language House is here to help. With various opportunities for learning like language courses, online studies, writing aids, tandem studies (learn Estonian with a native speaker who wants to learn your native tongue), language cafés (enrich your language skills in a casual environment), and Estonian cultural clubs (visits to local cultural events). Best of all, everything related to language studies is free! Yes, free! There’s no excuse not to

learn Estonian.QE‑6, Rävala 5, tel. +372 659 90 22, www. meis.ee/en/estonian-languages-houses. Open 09:0017:00; Fri 09:00-16:00; closed Sat, Sun. International House of Estonia The International House of Estonia is a one-stop-shop for internationals in Estonia. The Centre facilitates communication with the state, provides counselling and aims to help create a network. The services provided are aimed at internationals (mainly specialists) who have come to Estonia to work or to study, but there are also services for families and companies looking to hire international talent. QM‑9, Valukoja 8, C Wing, ground floor, tel. +372 627 97 01, www.workinestonia.com/internationalhouse. Online consultations are offered on business days 9:00 - 14:00 in July and 9:00 - 15:00 in August, in-office consulta‑ tions on Tuesdays and Thursdays 9:00 - 14:00 in July and 9:00 - 15:00 in August.

Settle in Estonia Programme for new arrivals Are you considering moving to Estonia? Or maybe you’re already living in this beautiful and innovative country? Do you want to acquire the primary knowledge and skills to settle in as fast as possible? To get you acquainted with the Estonian way of life, Settle in Estonia Programme.

Investing in your future

SETTLE IN ESTONIA PROGRAMME (free of charge) consists of various informative and interactive TRAINING MODULES: •

BASIC MODULE which gives an overview of the Estonian state, society, culture and people, also rights and obligations of residents, public services etc;

•

THEMATIC MODULES which give an overview of working and entrepreneurship, family life, studying and research;

•

SEPARATE TRAINING MODULES for children under the age of 15 and

•

BASIC LEVEL ESTONIAN LANGUAGE TRAINING (level A1). More information about the programme and registration: www.settleinestonia.ee; info@settleinestonia.ee SettleinEstonia

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Ülemiste Centre

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Väike-Paala

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Pae Park

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Bus Station

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Kadriorg Palace Peter the Great House Mikkel Kumu LAAGN A T E E

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J. Poska NT J. Poska Uus-Sadama 1 3 RVA M 1 3 Kadriorg NA Tallinna s t u W g u A e izen Ülikool L. Koidula berg 34A 38 Lydia i Pronksi 1A F.R. Kreutzwaldi Ko 13 id a

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Maarjamäe History Centre

Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) NARVA M NT Joa

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Tallin n–H elsink Tallin i n–A egna

Tallinn Bay

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Maritime Museum - Seaplane Harbour Patarei Sea Fortress

Kö

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Kalmuse tee

Pu r

IK A

PIRITA

Supluse puiestee

Tallinn Olympic Yachting Centre

rika

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e te