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Maps Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Lucerne April - June 2017

Summer Peaks A simple guide to stunning views FREE COPY inyourpocket.com N°10


MARC O’POLO STORE Weinmarkt 6 6004 Luzern


Contents Nightlife

23

Bars, pubs and clubs 5

Sightseeing

7

Old-town stroll

31

Facts, habits, attitudes

Mountains & Nature

32

History

Of cogwheel railways and cable cars

Arrival & Getting Around Get your bearings

City Basics

10

27

Churches, museums and city tours

Once upon a time

Lucerne for kids

Culture & Events 11

Major fun for minor citizens

Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Shopping

Summertime

36 37

14

Local delicacies and Swiss design

Swimming, sunbathing, summer bars

Watches & Jewellery

Quick picks

15

Where to find the one you’re loooking for

40

Lucerne in a nutshell

Hotels

Restaurants

From cream of the crop to down to earth

16

Maps & Index

Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more

Cafés Chocolate, coffee and conversation

22

Index City map Public transport map

44

47 48-49 50

A bird’s eye view of Lucerne’s new town and its majestic alpine surroundings. Many nearby mountain peaks are easily accessible by cable car or cogwheel railway including the Pilatus railway, the world’s steepest rack railway. Check it all out in our Mountains & Nature chapter  gevisions / Adobe Stock on p.32.

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Foreword When the snowline of the mountains surrounding Lucerne begin receding, the restaurants along the river move their furniture outdoors and the ships on the lake begin ferrying passengers with ever more frequency, you know that Lucerne and its inhabitants are preparing for summer. While some open-air lakeside bars begin plying their trade as early as April, you’ll have to wait until mid-May for the city’s best swimming spots to officially open. The snowmelt makes temperatures unbearable for all but the most dedicated icy water enthusiasts. That said, although Lake Lucerne will never compete with the Mediterranean, by the end of June its beaches and small bays become an attractive option for a dip. Check out the best way to enjoy the outdoors by reading our summer special (p. 14) and our open-air bars feature (p. 25). Summer is also the ideal time to explore neighbouring mountains with an exhilarating hike. While some peaks are accessible year-round, cable cars kick into high gear in June. Discover the most spectacular mountains and other natural wonders in our Mountains & Nature chapter (see. p. 32). Whether you prefer experiencing Lucerne by enjoying a fresh breeze on a mountain peak or on the city’s lakeshore, Lucerne In Your Pocket will help you to make the most of your stay.

Publisher pocket publishing GmbH Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. (+41) 32 510 85 76 switzerland@inyourpocket​​​​​​​​​​.com www.inyourpocket.ch Published 3 times per year, 90 000 copies ISSN 2296-8598 © pocket publishing GmbH 2016 Editorial office Lucerne Lucerne In Your Pocket, Kasimir-Pfyffer-Str. 18, 6003 Luzern lucerne@inyourpocket.com Editors Kathy Bajaria, Mārtiņš Zaprauskis Research Lukas Füglister Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman, Photos For photographers see photos, Cover © olga demchishina / Adobe Stock Sales & Circulation General Manager Lukas Füglister Sales Kathy Bajaria, (+41) 41 544 07 58, kathy.bajaria@inyourpocket.com Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, closing date next issue: June 20, 2017

COVER STORY

Copyright notice & Editor’s note Text and maps copyright pocket publishing GmbH. Photos copyright photographers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Located right on the River Reuss, the Jesuitenkirche (p. 28) is one of the most magnificent Baroque churches in Switzerland and the focus of this issue’s cover photo. The odd structure in the water is actually part of one of the world’s last remaining needle dams.

ABOUT IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

4 Lucerne In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring only handpicked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend. The app - available on both iOS and Android - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone to download it. To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE Lucerne is easiest to reach from Zurich International Airport (ZRH) which has by far the most international connections compared to the two alternatives EuroAirport Basel Mulhouse (BSL) and Airport Bern-Belp (BRN). Zurich airport handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at arrival 1 and arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There is a big public shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 and free Wi-fi for the first two hours. Just connect your device to ‘ZurichAirport’ and follow the instructions in your browser. Direct trains to Lucerne leave Zurich airport every hour and take 62 minutes. Trains that take just five minutes longer leave inbetween (change trains at Zurich HB). The train station is actually within the airport, on level -2 of the airport centre, where the main shopping area and check-in 3 are. Train tickets can be bought at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms.

OFFICIAL INTERNET SHOP WWW.PARTIMEWATCH.COM

SWISS MADE

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Lucerne’s main train station is right in the centre of town, with the lake and the KKL to one side and the old town just a few minutes’ walk away. International and domestic connections leave and arrive here. At the station you will find ticket offices, tourist information as well as shopping. Buses and taxis leave just in front the station. Of the suburban train stations, the one at the Transport Museum (Verkehrshaus) is most likely to interest you. At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public transport in Lucerne and also change money. For time tables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call (+41) 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min).

ARRIVING BY CAR The A2 Swiss motorway connects Lucerne to the Gotthard and Italy to the south and Bern to the north. The A14 motorway comes from Zurich. This makes getting to Lucerne by car easy, but parking is scarce and expensive. For overnight parking you can try finding a slot in the socalled blue zone in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00. Indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. In car parks parking costs approximately 20 - 50Sfr a day. Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr (available at petrol stations and post offices). Remember that pedestrians on zebra-crossings without traffic lights always have the right of way, as do trams. Cars must have their headlights switched on at all times.

The arch from Lucerne’s old train station in front of the new one. 

Emanuel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus

ARRIVING BY BUS Though there are not a huge number of long-distance bus connections from Lucerne, you can travel to several destinations in Italy, Croatia and southern France. Buses arrive and leave at Inseliquai 10, just to the east of the main train station, near the lakeshore. There are no domestic long-distance coaches in Switzerland. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

The legal alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which should allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before driving. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential zones in Lucerne, the speed limit is often 30km/h. Fines are high and yes, Switzerland has agreements with many European countries to make sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home driving licence in Switzerland as long as it is valid - if the licence is a non EU-one and in a language other than French, English, Italian or German it is recommended that it be accompanied by an international one. April - June 2017

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Arriving & Getting Around BICYCLES Getting around town by bicycle is popular in Lucerne, and in nice weather it’s a good option for visitors too. NEXTBIKE - BIKE SHARING Nextbike is a bike sharing system where you can pick up bikes at any one of the 60 locations in town around the clock, either by calling the hotline or using its app or website. When you enter the bike’s number in the app, it gives you the number code for the bike lock - and off you go. Fees are charged to your visa or mastercard. Before you can start you need to register online.Qtel. (+41) 41 50 80 800, www.nextbike.ch. 2Sfr for every hour or part of an hour, 20Sfr/24h.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT TRAINS The punctuality of trains in Switzerland is legendary. You can almost set your watch to the departure times. The train network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting around in Switzerland, trains are definitely best - from Lucerne there are connections to all the major Swiss cities at least once an hour. The state owned train company is called SBB. For time tables refer to www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold at vending machines and at the counters in Lucerne’s main train station. You can purchase single and return tickets. Children up to five travel for free, from 6 - 16 years they pay the halffare. If you plan on travelling around Switzerland a lot, get a half-fare card for one month for 120Sfr - and travel for half the fare on all public transport. Or get a Swiss Travel Pass which is valid for all kinds of public transport (216 - 458Sfr, depending on duration) and free entry to many museums (www.swisstravelsystem.com). For travelling in central Switzerland consider buying a Tell Pass, especially if you plan on heading to different mountain peaks. See p. 34 for details. If you board a train without a valid ticket, you will have to pay a fine of 90Sfr.

HOSPITALITY SCHOOL SWISS EDUCATION GROUP For decades now, Switzerland has had a strong reputation in hospitality training and education. The Swiss Education Group is the largest private educator in the country, who run five schools across seven campuses in Switzerland. It offers various bachelor and master programmes in the fields of hospitality, tourism, entrepreneurship and business management, as well as shorter one to eight week courses for professionals. It currently has some 6,500 students from 111 countries. Its schools include César Ritz Collages in Le Bouveret, Lucerne and Brig, the Culinary Arts Academy in Le Bouveret and Lucerne, the Hotel Institute in Montreux and the Swiss Hotel Management School in Caux and Leysin. .QAvenue des Alpes 27, Montreux, tel. (+41) 21 965 40 20, www.swisseducation.com. 6 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Lucerne train station is as well organised as the whole rail network. LIYP

CITY TRANSPORT Lucerne’s public transport network includes buses and local trains. The ticket system is fairly simple: Lucerne’s regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. Lucerne city is zone number 10 (see map p. 50) which includes all of the city and part of the agglomeration. Tickets are valid in the chosen zones on buses and local trains. As a visitor zone 10 is probably all you’ll need, as all the sights and even the bus ride to the valley station of the cable car to popular Mount Pilatus is within this zone. A day pass for zone 10 valid for a calendar day costs 8.20Sfr (half-fare 6.20Sfr), a single ticket valid for one hour 4.10Sfr. Children under six travel for free, 6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare (which actually is 3.10Sfr). Short distance tickets for up to six stops within half an hour are 2.50 (no half-fare). All these tickets can be purchased with cash or credit cards at the ticket machines you find at almost every stop (switch to English on the first screen). If you get caught without a valid ticket, it’s 90Sfr. For all questions about public transport, get advice at the Lucerne City Transport (VBL) sales points at the main train station or at the Schwanenplatz bus stop. City transport in Lucerne runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. There are night buses called nachtstern (www.nachtstern.ch) on Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun nights to the surroundings (like Kriens or Littau) which leave from the main train station. The tickets for 7Sfr or 10Sfr can be bought from the driver only. Day passes aren’t valid.

TAXIS Licensed taxis in Lucerne are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. The city sets the following maximum fees for taxis: initial fee 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr/km up to 20Sfr, 3.50Sfr/km above 20Sfr, waiting time 66Sfr per hour. Most companies charge the maximum (exceptions: RF Taxi, initial fee 5Sfr, McTaxi, inital fee 4Sfr, 3.40Sfr/km). Taxi drivers have to and usually do use their metres. Cheating is rare. You’ll find taxis at official taxi stands at the train station, at Schwanenplatz and behind Hotel National. Here are some taxi companies: RF Taxi, (+41) 41 320 18 18, www.rftaxi.ch.QA McTaxi, (+41) 76 577 66 55, www.mctaxi.ch Taxi Hess, (+41) 41 310 10 10, www.hesstaxi.ch lucerne.inyourpocket.com


City Basics BASIC DATA Area Switzerland: 41285 km² Lucerne (canton): 1493 km² Lucerne (city): 29 km² Population Switzerland: 8 million Lucerne (city): 84,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Lucerne: German Local time Central European (GMT+1h)

DRINKING The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers (in Lucerne you‘ll usually find Eichhof, which now belongs to the Dutch Heineken breweries) are increasingly getting competition from innovative local brewers. Check out Luzerner Bier, Lozärner Bier (yep, not the same) or Appenzeller for instance. Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the best may come from further south, you‘ll find some very good Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white) from the Lucerne region. Traditional Swiss spirits are fruit brandies, cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the most common.

CUSTOMS

ELECTRICITY

Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the according customs authorities):

Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins (types C and J) - they can take europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor - as well as from many other countries. In modern hotels you might find multi-use sockets. Otherwise ask for an adaptor at the reception or buy one in a traveller’s or electronics shop.

Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250g (50) of smoking tobacco.

EMERGENCY

Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. Other goods: Maximum value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. Goods over these limits must be declared when entering a EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. In Switzerland there is duty free shopping for arriving air travellers as well.

Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Fire brigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there is a walk-in medical centre (Permanence, see p. 8) for all kinds of consultations at the main train station. The emergency unit at the hospital is always open. HOSPITAL KANTONSSPITAL LUZERN Lucerne’s hospital has a 24-hour emergency walk-in service. Buses 18 and 19 go here from the train station. QA-1, Spitalstrasse, uKantonsspital, tel. (+41) 41 205 11 11, www.luks.ch. Open 24hrs.

LUZERN OR LUCERNE?

The Lion Monument commemorates Swiss mercenaries who died MikeNG/Shutterstock defending the French king in 1793.

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What’s in a name? If you look for the destination Lucerne on a timetable, you might wonder if the place has gone missing! But no fear - the German spelling is Luzern. That is standard German however: in dialect it’s Lozärn, but now we’re getting a bit advanced. The simple math is: Lucerne = Luzern. April - June 2017

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City Basics LANGUAGE SMARTS Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. Hello (formal)

Grüezi

(groo-e-tsi)

Goodbye (formal)

Adieu

(as in French)

Thank you

Merci

(mersi)

Sorry!

Entschuldigung!

(ent-shooldi-goong)

Excuse me!

Exgüsi!

(ex-gewsi)

Switzerland

D’Schwyz

(chviiits)

Cheers!

Zum Wohl!

(tsoom vol)

Lucerne

Lozärn

(Lo-tsaern)

PERMANENCE MEDICAL CENTRE This medical centre in the underground shopping area of the train station is the easiest place to go if you have any medical needs. Go to the reception desk when you arrive, you’ll then probably have to wait a while. It’s useful to have the details of your health insurance with you. QC-4, Bahnhofplatz, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 211 14 44, www.permanence-luzern.ch. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 23:00, and non-stop Fri 07:00 - Sun 23:00.

work or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German, socalled Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school. A lot of Swiss speak English fairly well, especially the younger generation. So generally getting by in English is no problem.

The KKL, a masterpiece by French architect Jean Nouvel. KKL Luzern

PHARMACIES

LOST & FOUND

The pharmacy (Apotheke in German) with the longest opening hours is Benu in the underground shopping area of the main train station. It is open 07:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 ((+41) 41 220 13 13). If you are in urgent need of medication outside these hours contact (+41) 900 11 14 14 (3.23Sfr/min.).

If you’ve lost your hat, your handbag or something else, you might have a happy reunion at the lost & found, fundbüro in German. It’s located at the police station at Hirschengraben 17b (B-4), tel (+41) 41 248 86 66, open Mon - Fri 10:00 12:30, 14:30 - 17:00. If you think you lost your item on a train or at the train station, you can also try the lost & found at the station.

INTERNET & WI-FI Surfing the internet over the mobile network can be very expensive when you’re abroad, due to roaming charges. Luckily, most hotels and many cafés, bars and restaurants offer free Wi-fi and in the city centre around the station, at the lakeshore and Löwenstrasse Wi-fi is free. Simply search for the network luzern.wlan on your device and open a browser. After you enter your phone number you will get an access code which will allow you to surf for an hour for free. You will also find the commercial Wi-fi providers Monzoon and Swisscom all over the city. You can subscribe to their services on the start page you get on your browser once you connect to their hotspots - all you need is a credit card. Prices start at 5Sfr per day.

LANGUAGE Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Lucerne lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at 8 Lucerne In Your Pocket

MAIL & PHONE Post Swiss post is generally reliable, and also can take care of all your financial transactions. There are post offices all over the city - the university post office just next to the train station has long opening hours (see below).

MARKET VALUES Loaf of bread Cup of coffee 0.3 litre of beer (bar) Public transport ticket, 1 hr Packet of cigarettes McDonald‘s Big Mac

2-5Sfr 4-7Sfr 4-7Sfr 4.10Sfr 8Sfr 6.50Sfr

(€1.85 - 4.70) (€3.70 - 6.55) (€3.70 - 6.55) (€3.80) (€7.50) (€6.05)

The Swiss national bank has abandoned its policy of tying the Swiss Franc to the Euro. Currently the exchange rate is quite stable at around 1.07 Sfr to the Euro. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


City Basics NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 January 2 February 8, 12 & 13, 2018 March 30, 2018 April 2, 2018 May 25, 2017 June 5, 2017 June 15, 2017 August 1 October 2 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year Berchtold Day (local) Carnival (local) Good Friday Easter Monday Ascension Whit Monday Corpus Christi National Holiday St. Leodegar's Day (local) All Saint's Day (local) Christmas St. Stephen's Day

Dialling Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Lucerne’s code is (an additional!) (0)41. We list the country code before all telephone numbers in parentheses. Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore the (+41) country prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. POSTSTELLE UNIVERSITÄT Lucerne’s main post office with the longest opening hours. QC-4, Frohburgstrasse 3, uBahnhof. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30.

MONEY The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1,000 francs. The coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change your money at UMC Change, Habsburgerstr. 11 ((+41) 41 211 00 50) or at the SBB Change at the train station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.

federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU. Switzerland does, however, cooperate with the EU in many areas, such as on the Schengen visa and border agreement.

SAFETY Lucerne is generally a safe city, and there is no no-go area, even for single travellers at night. Of course crime exists, so use common sense and be on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city.

SMOKING The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in publicly accessible buildings and public transport is generally illegal in Switzerland. In Lucerne however, if restaurants and bars are under 80m², they can opt to be smoking venues and quite a few do so. We mark them with X.

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION Lucerne Tourism’s tourist information office is in the building of the main train station, but is accessible from Zentralstrasse, outside the station too.QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 227 17 17, fax (+41) 41 227 17 20, www.luzern.com. Open 08:30 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. In April 08:30 - 17:30, Sat & Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

VISAS For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.

POLITICS The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states which retain some independence and have their own constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital and the seat of the parliament and the facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Summer means swimming in the lake, especially at the Ufschötti. 

Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus

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History LUCERNE IS BIG IN ROME XVI – XVII Century Religion became a big issue in the 1500s as the Reformation swept across Europe. Neighbouring confederates Zurich and Bern both grasped the new confession. Lucerne, however, remained with the old faith and became a centre of Catholicism, with new monasteries of the Capuchins, Jesuits and Ursulines being built in the 16th and 17th centuries. Faith also caused tensions (and wars!) within the Swiss confederacy, and Lucerne became the leader of the Catholic camp. In this role, Lucerne became the seat of the nuncio, the papal envoy, in 1586 and the seat of the Spanish ambassador in 1595.

PROFITS FROM THE WAR BUSINESS Leodegar, Lucerne’s patron saint on the doors of the Hofkirche. iStock.com/aimintang

THE ‘CITY OF LIGHT’ EMERGES Stone age – IX Century Although stone-age settlements and the Romans left a few traces, Lucerne doesn’t emerge out of the darkness of history until around 840. The name Luciaria is mentioned in documents, which may mean ‘place of light’ – it is a popular sobriquet for Lucerne today. This early mediaeval town consisted mainly of the Benedictine abbey of Saint Leodegar, who is the town’s patron saint, and the houses at either end of the bridge across the River Reuss.

A TRANS-ALPINE TRADE BOOM XII – XVII Century Lucerne was long a regional market town, and the weekly market on Tuesdays (still held today!) supplied the town’s hinterland for centuries. In the 13th century north-south trade across the Gotthard turned Lucerne into a major commercial centre. The trade across this Alpine pass mainly connected the Upper Rhine Plain and Milano, and boomed right up until the 17th century.

ALLIANCES WITH THE ‘FOREST COUNTIES’ XIII – XIV Century Preceding the 15th century, Lucerne was unproblematically under Habsburg rule. In 1332, due to a power struggle between the German kings Ludwig and Friedrich, Lucerne entered a pact with the three waldstätten or ‘forest counties’, Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden which encircle Lake Lucerne (or the Vierwaldstättersee, the ‘lake of the four forest counties’, as it is known locally). This military alliance was slowly to expand until it became the Swiss confederacy, the precursor of the modern Swiss state. 10 Lucerne In Your Pocket

XV – XIX Century Apart from trans-Alpine trade, a major source of income in Lucerne and its backcountry were mercenaries, young Swiss men who were sent to fight for France, Spain, the Duchy of Savoy or other powers of the day. Between ca. 1400 and 1800 around 50,000 men had left the Lucerne area to serve abroad – and the city of Lucerne only had a population of around 4000 for most of that period! While a few of the mercenaries came back rich, many did not come back at all and the well connected families who brokered the deals were the ones who benefited most.

NAPOLEON AND THE BEGINNING OF TOURISM XVIII – XIX Century In 1798 Lucerne lost its independence as Napoleon occupied the Swiss Confederacy and transformed it into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. After a return of the old powers, Switzerland was born in 1848, when the modern nation state was founded. In 1859 modernity reached Lucerne in the shape of the railway, and the town started expanding in earnest on the southern shore of the river. From 1830 onwards Lucerne had a new industry – tourism. The lake, the easily accessible mountains and some of the earliest mountain railways made it a favourite destination for the still very exclusive group of people who could afford to travel for pleasure. Many of the grand hotels and attractions like the Gletschergarten were built towards the end of the 19th century.

MODERN-DAY LUCERNE XX - XI Century In the 20th century, Lucerne developed into a vibrant centre for the region of Central Switzerland, becoming a university city in 2000. The concert hall KKL (p. 25) by architect Jean Nouvel was also opened in 2000, giving the town a new face. In the realm of culture Lucerne is famous for hosting the second largest – after Basel – and loudest Swiss carnival and the Lucerne Festival for classical music. The festival enjoys huge international renown, particularly due to Claudio Abbado who was head conductor from 2003 until his sudden death in 2014. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events Lucerne has a rich cultural life, a packed programme of excellent classical concerts at the KKL and elsewhere, opera and theatre at the Stadttheater and a host of venues for electronic music, pop, jazz, metal, etc. We list the most important events in the categories classical concerts, exhibitions, festivals, rock & pop concerts and sport. Within these sections events are ordered by date. Of course, there are far more events than we can list. We recommend checking out kalender.null41.ch for more events (only in German, so click ‘Veranstaltungen’ on the left and the button marked ‘Stadt Luzern’ on the right).

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 29.04 20:00, 30.05 19:30, 01.06 19:30, 03.06 19:30, 07.06 19:30, 10.06 19:30 » OPERA: LA TRAVIATA

Opera by Giuseppe Verdi.QB‑4, Luzerner Theater, Theaterstrasse 2, uBahnhof, 35-120Sfr, www.luzernertheater.ch.

02.06 19:30 » FESTIVAL STRINGS LUCERNE: BEETHOVEN AT ITS BEST

Condcutor and violin: Daniel Dodds; violin: Vilde Frang; violoncello: Nicolas Altstaedt; piano: Herbert Schuch. Works by Ludwig van Beethoven.QKKL, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, 25-105Sfr, www.kkl-luzern.ch.

09.06 & 10.06 » 21ST CENTURY ORCHESTRA: PIRATES OF THE CARIBBEAN

The 21st Century Symphony Orchestra performs the soundtrack to the movie Pirates of the Caribbean: At World’s End. Q40-150Sfr, www.kkl-luzern.ch. 19:30.

25.06 18:30 » ORCHESTRA FILARMONICA ITALIANA PIACENZA - A NIGHT AT THE OPERA

Conductor: Manfred Obrecht; soprano: Maria Bochmanova; tenor: Adam Sanchez; basso: Marc-Olivier Oetterli; organ: Martin Heini; choir: Chor des Theaters Biel Solothurn. Works by Verdi, Rossini, Dvorák, Puccini, Bizet, Mascagni and others.QKKL, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, 65-155Sfr, www.kkl-luzern.ch.

FESTIVALS 05.05 - 07.05 » DAS TANZFEST (DANCE FESTIVAL)

This is a dance festival, but one where you actually do the dancing (or you can if you want). The concept combines dance performances with dancing classes over three days. So whether it’s the Lindy hop or salsa that gets your feet moving, or perhaps a tango or ballet that moves you, there’ll be something for everyone. Many events are at Südpol, but not all.QSüdpol, Arsenalstrasse 28, uEichhof, tel. (+41) 41 318 00 40, www.dastanzfest.ch The Lucerne Symphony Orchestra in all its glory.

Philipp Baer

03.05 & 04.05 » LUCERNE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA: HEAVENLY JOY

Conductor: Constantinos Carydis; soprano: Chen Reiss; speakers: Peter Schweiger and Thomas Quasthoff. Works by Ludwig van Beethoven, Arnold Schönberg and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.QKKL, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, 25110Sfr, www.kkl-luzern.ch. 19:30.

14.05 11:00 » LUCERNE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA - PIANO CONCERT BY TCHAIKOVSKY

Condcutor: Aziz Shokhakimov; piano: Beatrice Rana. Works by Pyotr Tchaikovsky, Joseph Haydn and Ludwig van Beethoven.QKKL, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, 25-110Sfr, www.kkl-luzern.ch.

26.05 19:30 » THE QUEEN OF SPADES OPERA BY TCHAIKOVSKY

The Lucerne Symphony Orchestra & The State Choir Latvjia perfrom the opera The Queen of Spades by P. Tchaikovsky. Condcutor: James Gaffigan.QKKL, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, 25-150Sfr, www.kkl-luzern.ch. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

CINEMAS CAPITOL The Capitol shows a wide range of films, from studio to hollywood, from thriller to comedy on six screens. Snacks and drinks for sale. You can reserve tickets on www.kitag.ch or by phone on (+41) 900 556 789. By phone the charges are a quite hefty initial 1.50Sfr and 1.50Sfr a minute.QC‑5, Zentralstrasse 45, uBundesplatz, www.kitag.ch. MODERNE The Moderne with one screen belongs to the same chain as the Capitol and shows a wide range of films, from studio to hollywood, from thriller to comedy. Snacks and drinks for sale. You can reserve tickets on www.kitag.ch or by phone on (+41) 900 556 789. By phone the charges are a quite hefty initial 1.50Sfr and 1.50Sfr a minute. QB‑5, Pilatusstr. 21, uKantonalbank, www.kitag.ch. STATTKINO Independent operator showing studio productions at the Bourbaki location. 105 seats.QC‑2, Löwenplatz 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 30 60, www.stattkino.ch. April - June 2017 11


Culture & Events 15.06 - 17.06 » B-SIDES FESTIVAL

This cosy, authentic open-air music festival doesn’t go looking for the big names. Instead, it usually creates a programme of independent bands that work well together. The festival’s idyllic location on Sonnenberg, just on the forest’s edge, offers great views of the mountains and the lake. Apart from different stages, there are also bars and food stalls on the premises. To get there take a bus to Kriens, Busschleife and from there take the funicular to Sonnenberg KSB. Transport back to town is provided by the organisers after the concerts.Qwww.b-sides.ch.

23.06 & 24.06 » LUZERNER FEST

The whole town comes out to party during the Luzerner Fest. Dozens of bands and DJs play on outdoor squares and venues around the lake basin and food stalls and bars offer something for everyone. If you buy one of the festival badges, your money goes to support charities in the Lucerne region, so please do.Qwww.luzernerfest.ch.

EXHIBITIONS 04.03 - 26.11 » FROM MORNING TO NIGHT (VON FRÜH BIS SPÄT)

In 2017 the Kunstmuseum Luzern presents its collection on the topic of the commonplace. Do art and everyday life meet? Is art not the beautiful, the true and the good, while the ordinary is everything else? For a long time, everyday profane life seemed too unassuming for high art. At the end of the 18th century, genuine art had to

INT. COMMUNITY CENTRE LILI CENTRE Looking for the international community in Lucerne? Well look no further. This centre in its relaxed lakeside location offers up all kinds of events and is a great place to meet people. If you’re only in Lucerne for a short while, check out a wine tasting, a cultural event, its Tuesday lunch (produce bought fresh from the market that morning, 10Sfr for three courses, sign-up required) or just hang out in the relaxing atmosphere and enjoy free WiFi. If, however, you plan on sticking around for a while you can become a member and tap into a wide range of facilities, activities and events to find a home away from home. These include job integration and German conversation workshops, information coffee mornings, help translating German documents, an English theatre group and TGIF nights with live music. The programme is varied and constantly developing, so check www.lilicentre.ch for upcoming events and information. It also publishes a biannual magazine called Living in Luzern, with valuable information on getting settled in Lucerne.QE‑6, Alpenquai 40a, uWeinbergli, tel. (+41) 41 500 80 55, www. lilicentre.ch. Open 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sunday. Open at other times for special events. Centre available for hire. 12 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Midday Meal by Rudolf Koller on display as part of From Morning to PD Night.

be an immaculate entity without any trace of a tedious production process. In terms of content, it could only show the good and the beautiful, and certainly not the mundane. However, with the political and social upheavals that took place around 1800, artists discovered the commonplace and art began to take a stand on current phenomena and problems. This exhibiton highlights depictions of the everyday ranging from the late Middle Ages to the present day. Representations of transportation, work, urban and rural life, but also food and leisure as well as recreation and holidays will be on display as typical facets of the everyday.QC‑4, Kunstmuseum Luzern, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 78 00, 15/6Sfr, www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch.

22.04 - 01.10 » WHAT DOES SWITZERLAND EAT?

We buy and consume food on a daily basis, but where do our tomatoes, maize and strawberries really come from? Why do we use a knife and fork? What did people eat in the past and what will we eat in the future? Visitors will encounter a range of set tables, each one covering a specific topic of the exhibition’s rich spectrum including trends and taboos, provenance and production, dining culture and table manners, hunger and affluence, meat consumption and the future of food. You’ll also see portraits of some of Switzerland’s leading chefs and famous cookbooks will reveal the significance of food preparation. Naturally, the main focus is on the culinary heritage of Switzerland. This includes classics such as fondue and muesli, but also lesser-known specialities from across of the country.QForum Schweizer Geschichte Schwyz, Zeughausstrasse 5, Schwyz, tel. (+41) 58 466 80 11, 10/8Sfr, www.forumschwyz.ch.

28.04 - 07.05 » LUGA - CENTRAL SWITZERLAND’S BIGGEST FAIR

The Luga fair takes place on the Allmend. Discover what more than 450 exhibitors from all different sectors of the economy have on display over the course of 10 crazy days. A funfair with rides and attractions will also be available as well as lots of food stalls and the like in the manner of a traditional-style fair! Open 10:00 - 18:30; funfair 11:00 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.Q15/10Sfr, www.luga.ch. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events ROCK & POP CONCERTS 29.04 20:00 » DECIBELLES / VORWÄRTS

A night of punk rock with Decibelles from France and Switzerland’s very own Vorwärts.QSedel, Sedelhof 2, www.sedel.ch

16.05 20:00 » I AM OAK

Dutch singer-songwriter Thijs Kuijken, AKA I am Oak, is on tour with his fifth album Our Blood. Expect anything from timid song fragments on acoustic guitars to more traditional folk sounds.QC‑6, Schüür, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 368 10 30, 20Sfr, www.schuur.ch.

26.05 22:00 » SHANTEL & BUCOVINA CLUB ORKESTAR

Trumpets, accordions and electronic beats give Shantel’s Gypsy-Balkan-electro mix an unbelievable sound. He’ll be performing with his brass band.QC‑6, Schüür, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 368 10 30, 35Sfr, www.schuur.ch.

08.06 20:30 » SEA PINKS

Sea Pinks is a bittersweet melodic guitar pop band from Belfast. It was founded in 2010 by singer and guitarist Neil Brogan and has a reputation as a formidable live band. QC‑6, Schüür, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 368 10 30, 20Sfr, www.schuur.ch.

Shantel’s Gypsy-Balkan electro always gets the crowd moving. PD

SPORT 07.07 - 09.07 » LUCERNE REGATTA (ROWING WORLD CUP)

Lucerne’s second lake, the Rotsee, offers ideal conditions for rowing competitions. The Lucerne Regatta is a major event, and you can watch from the grandstand set up on the shore. Tickets are free, except for seats on the main grandstand on Sunday. Take bus N°1 from the train station to Weggismatt and you’ll arrive in seven minutes.Q­ www.lucerneregatta.com.

wh aT do es sw Itz er La nd eat? forumschwyz.ch facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

22.4 .–1.10.2017

April - June 2017 13


Summertime Summertime... and the living is easy. The living definitely does get easy in summer, when life in Lucerne moves outdoors. A grand summer day is of course ideal for visiting a mountain peak or exploring the lake region. That said, the lake is everyone’s favourite destination and it’s so pristine you can swim in it, which everyone does. Find our favourite places to swim and other actvities below. For some more urban summer easy living options like openair bars, check out the appropriate box in our Nightlife chapter (p. 25).

SUMMER ACTIVITIES & SWIMMING PLACES NEW FOXTRAIL Foxtrail have developed their own portfolio of scavenger hunts in locations across Switzerland. In Lucerne, they offer several itineraries, five of which are available in English (and other languages, too). Working as a team (2 - 7 people), Lucerne becomes your playground. To stay on the trail of the fox, you need to break codes and find hidden messages together. While following the clues you pass some of the city’s highlights, but also some less explored corners of town. In short, it’s a novel way to discover a Swiss town or region! You can book your starting time on its website and with the accompanying documents you can do the trail at your own pace. If you get stuck, a helpline is available to help you advance. You can also upgrade your tour to include a small or large Swiss apero for an added 10 / 20 Sfr per person.QC‑4, uLuzern Bahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 329 80 00, www.foxtrail.ch. Admission 31 - 41 Sfr per person (depending on the length of the tour). SEEBAD The wooden bathing house on Lake Lucerne, known as Seebad, originally opened its doors in 1885 and underwent a comprehensive refurbishment in 2010. It is a wooden structure stretching out into the lake. Previously it was divided into two separate bathing houses; the left side was for women and the right side for men. Each side has

BOAT RENTAL SNG LAKE LUCERNE CRUISES & BOATS Named after the patron saint of mariners, the Sankt Niklausen navigation company offers a range of boating services on Lake Lucerne. During summer, it offers regular lake cruises (approx. 60 min) leaving from Schwanenplatz. You can also book individual cruises (e.g. on a wooden yesteryear motor boat) and rent pedalos, motor boats and yachts in different sizes.QC‑3, Schwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 368 08 08, www.sng.ch. In summer departures generally 12:15, 13:30, 14:45, 16:00, 17:15, 18:30 every day. Check by phone. Round cruise 19Sfr, 10Sfr (children 5-12), children under 5 free. 14 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Summer means swimming and open-air drinking at places like PD Seebad.

a shallow pool within the structure containing crystal clear lake water, although most people choose to take the stairs at the far end into the open lake. There are simple yet charming changing cabins surrounding the internal pools and a small restaurant serving snacks, drinks and ice creams. It is renowned with locals for its fine salads. At 20:00 they close for bathing but remain open, with a relaxed bar vibe. A sunny summer eve spent at Seebad will put you in the holiday mood. QE‑2, Nationalquai, uCasino-Palace, www.seebadluzern.ch. Open May - September, 10:00 - 20:00, Sat & Sun 09:00 - 20:00, bar/restaurant until 00:30. Admission 6/4Sr, free after 20:00. N­K­W STAND-UP PADDLING (STRANDBAD LIDO) Take a large surfboard and a paddle and off into the lake! Stand-up paddling (SUP) has come from Hawaii to the calm lake waters of Switzerland and is accessible to people of all ages and levels. Standing upright on the surfboard you can paddle through Lake Lucerne surrounded by the stunning landscape and snow-capped mountains. There are two lakeside rental centres in Lucerne: At the Lido beach club close to the Transport Museum or across the lake at the Tribschen beach club.QVerkehrshaus, Lidostrasse 6a, tel. (+41) 41 370 38 06, www.surfcorner.ch. Open from May 13, 10:00 - 19:00. One-hour rental including board, paddle and life jacket (if required) costs 20Sfr and 30Sfr for two hours. UFSCHÖTTI If you walk along the lake from the main train station, past the KKL, Radisson Hotel, the shipyards and the sailing club you will come upon a small, hilly lawn. Welcome to Ufschötti! At the water’s edge there is a small beach and a pop-up summer bar. It is popular with families during the daytime and can get very busy on sunny weekends, but tends to be much calmer at other times. Apart from the bar there is a kiosk towards the road end selling snacks, drinks and ice cream. There you’ll find toilets and changing rooms too. In the evening Ufschötti is a popular hangout for young folk, playing guitars and bongos whilst sipping from their beer cans.QE‑5, Ufschötti, uBahnhof. Bar open April 15 until Sept 30, 15:00 - 24:00, 15:00 - 01:00, kiosk 10:00 - 22:00. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Do

Local

Swimming in Lake Lucerne (also see p.14) is hugely popular with locals – and not just with the young ones. In many countries, lakes and rivers in urban areas are too polluted to swim in, but luckily Switzerland cleaned up its act around 30 years ago.

The Manora self-service restaurant The cheapest Nearly all of the in the Manor department store (p. drinking takes place sights Lucerne is so 37) serves good, inexpensive food. outdoors when you famous for are free! Choose from a variety of buffets and bring your own. You can see the enjoy the breathtaking view from its Drinking alcohol is Chapel Bridge, the rooftop terrace. allowed in public spaces, so when it's Spreuer Bridge, the Lion warm, just have a seat by the lake Monument and the Lake without (i.e. Ufschötti, see p. 14). paying a penny (p. 27/28). Sporting the You can do the universal symbol of steamship cruise Irish identity in its tomorrow logo, the Shamrock (p. 28) – or when (p. 25) blesses us you're in your with yet more great gifts from the golden years. Why not be your own plant world (hops and barley) in captain? Rent a pedalo and other liquid form (AKA Guinness, et al.) boats at SNG (see p. 14).

If you're looking for something which feels a little bit like a fairy tale, the Burgerstube (p. 20) with its rich historical interior is a great start. All you need for a perfect evening with your significant other.

A glass of wine or a signature gin Why not pamper cocktail while huddling around an yourself and your open fire – sounds romantic, doesn’t spouse with a spa it? Well, it definitely is and you and treatment? Hotel your better half will find all of this Schweizerhof (p. 48) and more at Anker (p. 23). offers everything from simple neck massages to chocolate full-body peelings (also for walk-in guests).

Chef Marcel Ineichen If you're a whisky Since its opening in and his team create connoisseur, you 1998, the KKL (p. 28) epic flavours at Villa have to add Louis concert centre has Schweizerhof (p. Bar (p. 24) to your become a magnet 17). Hidden away in must-visit list. But for stars of the the former summer residence of a even if you’re not a lover of the classical music scene. You can famous local family, it’s well worth smoky spirit, this hotel bar is an often hear the likes of Bartoli and the effort to find it. exquisite place to spend an evening. Mutter at this concert hall.

Lads and lasses

Tasty, high-quality burgers, spare ribs, steaks and craft brews are what you and your buddies will get at Wolf (p. 20). Sounds good, no?

Couples

Drink The Raviolibar (p.23) is a local favourite. Aesthetic lighting and interior design combined with snug seating make this feel almost like anyone’s second living room.

High-end

Eat Grottino 1313 (p. 19) is one of the best Italians in town and hugely popular with locals for the warm, authentic atmosphere and the amore you can taste.

On the cheap

Quick picks

ence? Ready for a special experi

ADVENTURE AND FUN FOR EVERYONE! facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

an game, allows Foxtrail, the thrilling urb e and 11 other Swiss ern Luc r ove you to to disc new angle while regions from a completely ! having a lot of fun www.foxtrail.ch

April - June 2017 15


Restaurants SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted

X Smoker lounge

E Live music

N No credit cards

S Take away

C‑1 Map coordinates

u Nearest (trolley)bus stop

B Outdoor seating

Lucerne’s chefs have more to offer than Swiss classics or the Lucerner chügelipastetli. Lucerne culinary class goes from tasty take-aways to exquisite fine dining. You can also find food from many parts of Asia, Europe and the Americas, while many other places take their inspirations from a wide variety of regional cuisines. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. Prices are indicated with the € icons - € indicates most mains are under 25Sfr, €€ mains 25 - 40Sfr, €€€ mains 40 55Sfr, €€€€ most mains over 55Sfr. This applies to the evening menus, for lunch many restaurants offer special cheaper deals (on workdays). Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. The letter and the number (e.g. A-1) after the venue name indicate the coordinates for finding it on the map in the back of this guide.

MEKONG The snappy, smart service starts with an offer to take your coat at the door and carries on right through, at the very professionally run Mekong. The up-market far-eastern interior and the profuse use of discrete, indirect lighting complete the package, making this a favourite with business people. The menu is pan-Asian, with Thai and Indian curries, wok and grill dishes and a few Europeanstyle standards as alternatives. The food is definitely good, especially if you don’t mind the strong Euro touch to the Asian dishes. QA‑4, Pilatusstrasse 29, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 226 88 88, www.mekong-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun, May - Sept opens 17:00 on weekdays. €€. A­B

ASIAN

Hotel Zum Schlüssel also has a fine restaurant.

GOURMINDIA Located underneath the Gütsch castle on multicultural Baselstrasse, this spacious restaurant serves up delicious authentic Indian cuisine. Proof comes in the form of the Indian tourist groups who feel at home here when they eat upstairs. The tandoori dishes and naan baked in a traditional Tandoor clay oven are wonderful, portion sizes in general are generous and the service is friendly. They also offer great value lunch buffets.QBaselstrasse 31, uGütsch, tel. (+41) 41 250 43 43, www. gourmindialuzern.com. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:30 22:00, Sat, Sun 17:30 - 22:00. €. A

FINE DINING

VILLA Schweizerhof

open Wed-Sun

RESTAURANT SCHLÜSSEL Marija and Stephan Bucher cultivate traditional Austrian and Swiss cuisine in a quiet square by the Franciscan church. Try the classic Wiener Schnitzel, freshly prepared Swiss premium grass-fed beef, local Lucerne-style Geschnetzeltes with Rösti or some homemade pasta. All this takes place in an old-town house built in 1545 with ornate wooden floors and ceilings. Talented kitchen staff, thoughtful hospitality and genuine friendliness make for a thoroughly enjoyable experience.QA‑4, Franziskanerplatz 12, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 10 61, www.schluessel-luzern.ch. Open 09:00 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. A­B STIEFELS HOPFENKRANZ Hopfenkranz is probably the smallest, most down-toearth fine dining restaurant in Lucerne, with space for just 25 lucky guests each night. They like to keep things as simple as possible here focusing on cuisine prepared with fresh regional and seasonal ingredients. It also offers good-value lunch menus for 20 Sfr. In the evening seven courses are on offer, which you can also order as individual dishes. QC‑2, Zürichstrasse 34, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 78 88, www.hopfenkranz.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. A­B

16 Lucerne In Your Pocket Inserat_VILLA_LIYP_60x45.indd 1

PD

lucerne.inyourpocket.com 28.03.17 09:08


Restaurants

Restaurant Schlüssel – since 1545 Franziskanerplatz 12 (+41) 41 210 10 61 NEW VILLA SCHWEIZERHOF Villa Schweizerhof is hidden away in a lakeside housing complex and thus remains a well-kept secret (you will need to press the buzzer at a gate and follow the signs). This old villa was formerly the summer residence of a famous local family and used to be surrounded by an equestrian show jumping race course. The restaurant celebrates local cuisine using regional ingredients and Chef Marcel Ineichen, known for his love of herbs, has his own herb garden on the grounds. We ate the chef’s salad and homemade bread as a starter, followed by the fish of the day snatched fresh from the lake which included sides of homemade pasta, sauce and vegetables. The portions were appropriate and the flavours were simply epic. The climax of the experience was the vanilla pumpkin crisp dessert, which was sensational. Service was professional and down-to-earth, adding to the already relaxed atmosphere at this special place.QF‑2, Haldenstrasse 30, uDietschiberg, tel. (+41) 41 370 11 66, www.villa-schweizerhof.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue. €€€. A­B

Villa Schweizerhof: epic flavours at a lakeside villa

PD

FRENCH DREI KÖNIGE The restaurant and bar share the same name as the hotel above, but are run independently by four experienced, but young entrepreneurs. The restaurant has a French bistro feel with white table cloths, varnished wooden furnishings and outdoor roadside seating in a suburb facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

popular with locals. It offers good value lunch menus during the week and a Swiss-French à la carte evening menu, which contains just a handful of fresh and seasonal starters, mains and desserts from hacktätschli (homemade meat balls) to ribeye steaks. The adjoining bar stays open a little later on weekends and offers locally produced most (apple juice) as well as prune, apple and pear schnapps, Henri Bardouin pastis and Nikka Japanese whisky.QA‑4, Klosterstrasse 10, uHirzenhof, tel. (+41) 41 250 76 76, www.3koenige-luzern.ch. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00. Kitchen open 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun, Mon. Bar open Thu 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €€. A­B

SWISS CUISINE What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to! Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. One of the Lucerne specialities is Lozärner Chügelipastetli, basically a meat pie, it is a puff-pastry cup filled with little sausage-meat balls (chügeli) and sometimes innards (sweetbread) and mushrooms in a creamy sauce. Also on the list of Swiss traditionals is rösti, a cake of grated and fried potatoes similar to hash browns. Switzerland has an impressive range of breads to go with the famous cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides. April - June 2017 17


Restaurants CHEESE RESTAURANTS

iStock.com/assalve

The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, originally come from the French speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. Even though locals mainly eat these dishes during the cold time of the year, we definitely recommend trying them whatever the season - the listed restaurant below is a specialist. FONDUE HOUSE Fondue House is located inside Hotel Falken and is a good place to taste your way through everything fondue-like. The combo menus give you three fondues in one meal - choose from cheese, bourguignonne (meats in oil), chinoise (meats in broth) and chocolate. Bread, potatoes, sauces and more are served to dip and as sides. Not exactly authentic, as Swiss don’t mix fondues like this, but if you want to try everything in one go, this is your opportunity. The combos are not cheap, however. QB‑3, Falkengasse 4/6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 412 37 37, www.fondue-house.ch. Open 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. €€. A­B

18 Lucerne In Your Pocket

INTERNATIONAL NEW THE MEXICAN Tucked away in a side street across from the train station, this restaurant claims to serve up authentic Mexican soul food. Although we think that the food has been slightly adapted to please European palates, that’s probably why so many locals love it here. The room has an urban Mexican cantina feel to it with metal chairs and wooden tables and features a huge wall mural by local artists Queen Kong. The food concept is based on a selection of six fillings and you can choose to enjoy them as burritos, enchiladas, tostadas or soft tacos. Alternatively you can order a burger, Mexican bowl, salad or fajitas. We started off with pimientos (small green peppers) with seasalt and a beetroot margarita, which was sweeter than expected, but well mixed and delicious. Although we found the beef and onion tacos to be rather average, as the tortillas didn’t have that typical corn flavour, we washed it all down with a mezcal that tasted exactly how it should. Staff are service minded and friendly.QFrankenstrasse 6a, uLuzern Bahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 211 34 34, www.the-mexican.ch. Open 11:30 14:00, 17:00 - 00:30, Mon, Tue, Wed 11:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. A­B

Experience urban cantina ambience at The Mexican.

PD

NEW ZUR WERKSTATT The name of this modern restaurant can be translated as ‘to the workshop’. You can come here for lunch, dinner (a chef’s table dinner is also available), for a weekend brunch or a cooking class. At lunchtime, each table has a fresh salad so you can begin without the aid of the wait staff and a ‘toolbox’, which is filled with cutlery, homemade salad dressing, cordial and drinking water and bread. Head over to the open-plan kitchen and pick up your main course directly from the chef (it’s even possible to go up for a second helping, if you’re still hungry!) and remember that dessert is included in the 25 Sfr lunch menu. In the evening it has a similar set menu concept with three courses from 58 Sfr, which you can boost with a second starter, dessert or cheese for 12 Sfr per extra item. The brunch is also 58 Sfr lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants and includes drinks. The ‘workshops’ seem somewhat old-fashioned and use gender clichés like ‘real men like beer and sausages’, which seem a bit at odds with the progressive, modern approach here.QC‑5, Waldstätterstrasse 18, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 979 03 03, www.zurwerkstatt.ch. Open 11:30 – 13:30, 17:00 – 00:30, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. €€€. A­B

ITALIAN GROTTINO 1313 This wooden hut in the industrial area of town is not what you would expect - it has long been considered one of Lucerne’s best-kept secrets. With a big fire, an open kitchen, candlelit tables and mamma-style Italian cooking it is hard to resist. There is a set four-course menu (64Sfr), but you can opt out on courses if you like. Soup, salad, pasta and main courses are served in big bowls and placed in the middle of your table for you to help yourself. They also serve two-course lunches (20 Sfr).QC‑6, Industriestrasse 7, uWerkhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 41 610 13 13, www.grottino1313.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30, Sun 18:00 23:00. €€. A­B

TIBITS tibtis is a purely vegetarian restaurant with several vegan options. It’s very successful in many Swiss cities and even has a branch in London. The Lucerne locale can be found inside the train station on the first floor overlooking the tracks and all the hustle and bustle. But the focal point of tibits is the bounteous vegetarian buffet offering roughly 40 homemade salads, hot daily specials, soups and desserts. Round it off with a freshly squeezed juice or a beer if you prefer and enjoy the amazing food that’s made with 100% vegetarian or vegan ingredients.QC‑4, Zentralstrasse 1 (inside the station), uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 18 88, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00, Food served until 30 minutes before closing. €€. A a mystery, but it seems that he is a celebrity favourite. The owner will talk you through which fresh dishes they have on offer and you can make your selection. Also available to take away.QB‑6, Bleicherstrasse 29, uPaulusplatz, tel. (+41) 41 360 55 54, www.puntogiusto.ch. Open 11:00 -14:00, 18:30 -22:00, Tue, Wed 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A W

PUNTO GIUSTO This small and authentic Italian restaurant specializes in home made antipasti and pasta. The photos on the wall of the owner with multiple Hollywood stars are something of

VEGETARIAN

GETTING THE BEST OUT OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.

Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant Bar Take Away Catering Lucerne train station, first floor|www.tibits.ch|www.tibits.co.uk|

facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

287.5AA.008.W Inserat Dachkampagne In Your Pocket Luzern 124X90 CO_e.indd 1

April - June 2017 19 18.09.15 13:08


Restaurants MEDITERRANEAN TASSNIM ORIENT In case you need a break from Swiss cuisine, this small and simple, newly renovated Lebanese restaurant and takeaway located up the road to the Lion Monument offers cheaper options like shawarma, kebab or falafel sandwiches at lunchtime. In the evening it has more of a restaurant feel. Warm and cold mezze platters including favourites like hummus, falafel and baba ganousch are waiting to be shared or for the more adventurous, specialities such as veal tongue can also be ordered. The owner is generally friendly and welcomes you in, however is not too flexible with menu changes. Decor is colourful with MiddleEastern lamps, open stone walls, cushions and tiles.QC‑2, Zürichstrasse 36, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 70 07, www.tassnimorient.ch. Open 11:30 - 22:00. €€.

Style does matter! Wolf Burger & Steak Bar.

PD

STEAKS & BURGERS NEW WOLF BURGER & STEAK BAR Cool restaurants serving quality burgers seem to be all the rage these days and this is the latest edition to the scene in Lucerne. The focus here is on quality local free-range meat in its 180g burgers, steaks and spare ribs, but we’d like to add that attention is also paid to the homemade burger buns which are delicious, especially the whole wheat variety. Wash it down with a wide selection of craft beers from

around the country, local wine or an interesting cocktail from the small but original drinks menu. Side dishes such as fries (with potatoes, sweet potatoes or ‘dirty’, which are oven baked potatoes with cheese and bacon), salads and vegetables all cost extra. The interior is modern and cosy with stool seating and large windows and on a sunny day you can eat outside on the popular Helvetiaplatz.QB‑5, Waldstätterstrasse 3, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 55 00, www.wolf-luzern.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 00:30, Sat 11:00 00:30. Closed Sun. €€. A­B

SWISS As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see Swiss cuisine, p. 17), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box on p. 18. BURGERSTUBE (HOTEL WILDEN MANN) Celebrating its 500th anniversary in 2017, Burgerstube’s cosy, candlelit rustic interior makes you feel as if you’ve journeyed back in time. You’ll find good traditional Swiss cuisine with a modern twist here, not to mention 14 Gault-Millau points. The menu mixes Swiss classics such as bratwurst, cordon bleu and the Lucerne speciality chögelipastetli with more experimental dishes such as poached scallops in elderberry sauce or a mixed spring salad with dandelion, red radish and sugar peas served with rhubarb-yogurt dressing. Over the centuries Burgerstube has also welcomed its fair share of celebrities including Italian film legend Sophia Loren.QA‑4, Bahnhofstrasse 30, uHirzenhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 16 66, www.wildenmann.ch. Open 10:30 - 24:00, Kitchen open 11:30 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. €€. A HELVETIA The Helvetia with its brasserie atmosphere is a culinary reference in the Neustadt part of town. Whether it’s schnitzel or cordon bleu with meat from local, ethical farming or the daily fish from sustainable sources, the dishes here are made and served with skill and care. Also on the

Floating restaurant anchored on Schweizerhofquai, Luzern

tel. +41 41 410 23 30, www.schiffrestaurant.ch 20 Lucerne In Your Pocket

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Restaurants menu are variations on flammkuchen (the Alsatian take on pizza), home-made pasta and a nice choice of vegetarian dishes. The 1920s-style interior in white and dark wood is a pleasing setting, but an outside table beneath the old chestnut trees can hardly be beaten. Free Wi-fi, smoking in the bar.QB‑5, Waldstätterstrasse 9, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 44 50, www.helvetialuzern.ch. Open 07:30 - 00:30, Sun 10:00 - 00:30. Nov - March open 07:30/08:00 - 00:30, Sun 17:30 - 00:30 €€. A­BX

Find a stately house with a rustic interior at Burgerstube.

PD

STADTKELLER The Stadtkeller is located in the heart of the old town and stages a Swiss folklore show from April through October. In the rustical surroundings you can enjoy surprisingly good Swiss cuisine to a show presenting various Swiss traditions such as yodelling, Swiss Alpine horn blowing and flag waving to name but a few. For added entertainment value the show has an interactive element where members of the audience are invited up on stage to try out the various customs. Few Swiss people practice these traditions these days, but the show is nonetheless good fun and relaxed. QB‑3, Sternenplatz 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 47 33, www.swissfolkloreshow.com. Lunch show starts 12:15, duration approx. 1h, dinner show starts 20:00 (music 19:30), approx. 1.5h, restaurant opens 18:30. Admission show and lunch 54 - 68Sfr / dinner 72 - 85Sfr. A WILHELM TELL (SCHIFFRESTAURANT) The Wilhelm Tell, named after the mythical Swiss national hero, is a retired paddle steamer moored just past the Hotel Schweizerhof. Step on board for a drink and sandwich on deck, descend into the hold for a cosy dinner or adjourn to the captain’s salon in original Art Nouveau design for the four-course dinner. The kitchen produces Swiss standards like schnitzel, deep fried battered pike-perch and a seasonal menu including local beef, fish and a varied selection of vegetarian dishes. The food quality is good, but the atmosphere and the views are what you come for here.QC‑3, Schweizerhofquai, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 23 30, www.schiffrestaurant.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€. A­B facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Read more reviews online: lucerne.inyourpocket.com WIRTSHAUS GALLIKER The Galliker family has run this old-style Swiss tavern for over 150 years and recipes have been passed down over four generations. This is the place where Swiss people go to eat traditional Swiss food, from rösti to luzerner chögelipastete (veal with a creamy mushroom sauce served in puff pastry) and in autumn they serve up delicious game dishes. Fine soul food and friendly service from the waiting staff make for a fine local experience.QA‑4, Schützenstrasse 1, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 10 01. Open 11:30 14:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A WIRTSHAUS REUSSFAEHRE This relaxed riverside restaurant is almost 120 years old and oozes down-to-earth charm. Settle down on the terrace for a glass of wine in the afternoon or call in for some dinner in the evening. There is a small menu with Swiss specialities such as lamb’s lettuce salad, steak tartare, rösti or cordon bleu at fair prices and a good selection of wines by the glass or bottle. Don’t forget to drop 2 Sfr into the jukebox and pick out five favourite songs. QSentimattstrasse 14, uKreuzstutz, tel. (+41) 41 240 27 98, www.reussfaehre.ch. Open 10:00 - 00:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A­B­

Sternenplatz 3 CH-6004 Luzern Telefon +41 41 410 47 33 Fax +41 41 410 61 33 info@stadtkeller.ch www.stadtkeller.ch

April - June 2017 21


Cafés Coffee culture in Switzerland is heavily influenced by Italy, and many of Lucerne’s bars and cafés are equipped with excellent Italian espresso machines. Cafés specialise on coffee, tea and sweets, but in many you’ll get meals, snacks and alcohol too - the boundary between bars and cafés is not a strict one. CHEZ CASSIS This charming apartment-style French cafe / apero bar sits in the middle of the increasingly lively Bruch quarter. Old furniture and kitsch décor together with the warm and friendly mother and daughter hosts, you will soon feel welcome here. Depending on the hour, the coffee is delicious as is the blue pastis aperitif. The Soirée Orientale evening takes place once a month, where delicious homemade couscous (beef or vegetarian) from an Algerian family recipe is served up. Check the website for special events.QA‑4, Bruchstrasse 44, uHirzenhof, www.chezcassis.ch. Open 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. N­B NEW HINICHT This is a great place to meet a friend for a coffee, tea or organic smoothie, but perhaps a bit too small if you’re with a larger group. Indeed, the pulled pork burger is fantastic and very popular at lunchtime, but it’s not the only reason to come here. The oven baked sweet potatoes

BREAKFAST Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, and is served with butter, jam, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads - rye bread, corn bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yoghurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Many Swiss don’t consider breakfast complete without one of the many takes on the müesli theme. Here then are some of our favourite breakfast places: LUZ SEEBISTRO, a lovely quiet spot right on the lake with a small breakfast menu including all the essentials like chocolate buns and a small buffet until 11:00 (see overleaf ). NEUBAD, several breakfast options almost all day (Tue - Sun until 16:00) such as the non-swimmer breakfast (Nichtschwimmer Zmorge) with a fine selection of local cheeses. Enjoy options with bagels and eggs on the weekend. See p. 24. 22 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Excellent coffee and a charming kitsch décor at Chez Cassis.

PD

and the vegetarian Mediterranean burger are just as good, as is the homemade iced tea. Service is friendly and the prices are fair. It’s also a popular stop for afterwork drinks.QB‑5, Dornacherstrasse 3, uPilatusplatz, tel. (+41) 41 260 93 93, www.hinicht.ch. Open 08:30 23:00, Fri 08:30 – 00:30, Sat 09:00 - 00:30. Closed Mon, Sun. N­B LUZ SEEBISTRO If you find yourself at the main train station with some time on your hands, this is a fine place to hang out. Walk out of the front of the station and straight ahead to where the public boats on Lake Lucerne depart from. You will see a glass structure sitting on the water and that is Café Luz. Soaked in daylight during the day and lit by a grand chandelier at night, this is a bustling place. They have a terrace on the waterside and some seats and a barbecue grill on the station side, serving BBQ specialities such as Swiss sausages and halloumi cheese sandwiches.QC‑4, Bahnhofplatz (Schifflandungsbrücke 1), uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 367 68 72, www.luzseebistro.ch. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 00:30, Sun 08:00 20:00. A MARDI GRAS Stepping through the Art Nouveau entrance really is a bit like stepping into an exuberant, swirling mardi gras procession – paintings from pop art to romantic landscapes cover the walls edge to edge, vigourous pot plants and generous bouquets jostle for space with antiques and trinkets and the snobbishly chic white leather backrests of the wall benches contrast with the simple wooden chairs and tables. This is a popular spot for coffee and sweets, as well as for wine and mezze, with a cultivated crowd ranging from students to pensioners. Two set breakfasts on the menu too.QA‑4, Burgerstrasse 5, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. (+41) 79 455 85 20, www.facebook.com/Multigras. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. N lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife Lucerne might be small, but as a cultural centre it draws people from all over Central Switzerland. This means it pulls far more weight than mere numbers would suggest. Dozens of bars and clubs jostle for custom, meaning there’s something for almost every taste. For high-end nightlife head for the bars of the grand hotels, for the flipside dive into the vibrant student and alternative scene. You’ll also find pubs and casual bars, as well as live music venues and large mainstream clubs. Check out our listings, and take your pick. As many bars don’t take cards, it’s a good idea to have cash handy!

Madeleine brings some New York style to Lucerne.

PD

CASUAL BARS NEW ANKER Originally opened in 1914, Anker became a meeting point for the working classes and functioned as a political centre from which national strikes were organised. It shut its doors in 2014, but a new café, bar and restaurant rose up in its place as well as a 40-room hotel. With its alpine chic and modern extrovert design features, it feels rather apolitical these days. With coffee, breakfast and newspapers in the morning, good-value daily lunch menus, a grill restaurant in the evening and a bar at night, this place offers something for everyone any time of the day. We like it best in the evening, when you can choose from a wide selection of wines and speciality gins while huddling around an open fire. It also offers comfortable upholstered chairs with colourful cushions and a high ceiling surrounded by huge windows. QB‑5, Pilatusstrasse 36, uPilatusplatz, tel. (+41) 41 220 88 00, www.hotel-restaurant-anker.ch. Open 06:30 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 02:00. A­B MADELEINE With its red velvet curtains and gallery, Madeleine is little piece of New York style in Lucerne, located in a former porn cinema. They host occasional concerts / performances and always have DJs on the weekend attracting a mixed crowd. It usually gets pretty busy on weekends and has separate non-smoking and smoking floors.QA‑3, Baselstrasse 15, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 76 326 75 76, www.lamadeleine.ch. Open Wed 20:00 - 00:30, Thu 20:00 - 02:30, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. N­X facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted

N No credit cards

E Concerts

X Smoker lounge

K Restaurant

A‑1 Map coordinates

u Nearest (trolley)bus stop

NEW RAVIOLIBAR Raviolibar is the brainchild of a group of five friends who celebrate carnival together each year. They decided that since the bar of their dreams doesn’t exist in Lucerne, they would have to create it themselves. This sylish, yet relaxed meeting place for 30-somethings is located in a beautiful and central old corner building. Aesthetic lighting and interior design combined with snug seating make this feel almost like a second living room, one with a fancy coffee machine. It serves up snack platters with cheese and salami, plenty of carefully selected wines, long drinks and even shots for those who still enjoy some mischief.QB-4, Hirschmattstrasse 13, uKantonalbank, www.raviolibar.ch. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Thu 16:00 - 23:00, Fri 16:00 - 00:30, Sat 09:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun. N

CASINO GRAND CASINO LUZERN 250 slot machines with sky high jackpots and the table games American roulette, black jack, punto banco and poker await you here. For your physical well-being there are bars as well as the restaurant Olivo within the premises. To get access you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed (no sportswear) and carry a valid passport, European ID card or European driving licence. QD‑2, Haldenstrasse 6, uHaldensteig, tel. (+41) 41 418 56 56, www.grandcasinoluzern.ch. Open 09:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 05:00, table games start 16:00, Sat & Sun 14:00. Admission after 16:00: 10Sfr, free with the voucher below. AX

Promocode: 057

www.grandcasinoluzern.ch Valid until 31st December 2017, daily from 4 pm. Conditions: not convertible into cash money, only one voucher per person, redeemable only at the reception of the Grand Casino Luzern, minimum age 18 years, ID check (passport, European ID, driving license). Open daily from 9 am until 4 am.

April - June 2017 23


Nightlife QUEER LUCERNE The atmosphere in Lucerne is refreshingly open, relaxed and queer-friendly for such a small city. In 2005 local citizens voted in favour of registered partnerships for same sex-couples and in the weeks following the referendum the city hosted the national Pride festival. It is common to see same-sex couples holding hands and showing affection in public. Each November the weeklong Pink Panorama film festival (November 9 - 15, 2017, www.pinkpanorama.ch), now in its 16th year, shows LGBTQI films from around the globe. Local collective Queer Office (queeroffice.ch) organises a weekly gathering Queerbad every Tuesday at Neuabd bar (see overleaf). There are few queer bars as such in Lucerne, but regular parties taking place at various locations around the city. FRIGAY NIGHT (AT EL CARTEL) On the third Friday of every month, this popular commercial monthly gay night is now in it’s 11th year. House, chart, r’n’b and mashup music keep the dancefloor full. Drinks are fairly expensive. QD‑2, El Cartel, Haldenstrasse 21, uLuzernerhof, www.frigaynight.ch. Every third friday of the month, 23:00 - 05:00. Admission 15 Sfr. ZURICH PRIDE The annual Pride Festival in Zurich takes place this year from the 2nd - 11th June. There will be events throughout the week and then the parade through the streets on the 10th June. This year the theme will be “No fear to be you”, raising awareness for the theme of Asylum for LGTBQI people.QVarious, www.zurichpridefestival.ch.

CLASSY BARS CHÂTEAU GÜTSCH Rumour has it that Michael Jackson was considering purchasing this small Neuschwanstein-like palace on the hillside shortly before his death. In any event, if you appreciate luxurious rooftop bars with fine cocktails and great views, this recently refurbished estblishment might be the place for you. After a walk in the forest, treat yourself to a cocktail at sunset in this historical bar, which has been serving guests for over 120 years, including, among others, Great Britain’s Queen Victoria. On Sundays it offers live jazz or blues music in the afternoon and in the summer the outdoor terrace attracts sunseekers. QKanonenstrasse, uGütsch, tel. (+41) 41 289 14 14, www.chateau-guetsch.ch. Open 16:00 - 00:00, Sun 14:00 - 00:00. A­E­B LOUIS BAR (ART DÉCO HOTEL MONTANA) The Louis is very much the grand hotel bar, with chandliers, stucco-decorated ceilings, lots of ornate wood panelling, a grand piano and a huge selection of over 130 whiskeys. But 24 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Die Kneipe, where a chat at the bar comes easily.

PD

the namesake trumpeter is no empty reference, as there is live music, very often jazz, and jam sessions on Thursdays (admission free). The adjacent Hemingway lounge is for smokers, as it has a selection of cigars and over 60 exquisite rums.QE‑2, Adligenswilerstrasse 22, uCasino-Palace, tel. (+41) 41 419 00 00, www.hotel-montana.ch/louis-bar. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. A­E­X

DANCE BARS BLUE (RENAISSANCE HOTEL) This darkened venue with blue lighting and a strange, Asian-influenced baroque decor has an element of mystique. Blue is a smokers lounge, with live DJs livening up the place later on Fridays and Saturday nights. A popular hang out for a dressed-up young party crowd, it can get busy and drinks are a little pricey. If the smoke is proving too much, pop into the Pacifico, the Mexican cantina and bar next door.QB‑4, Pilatusstrasse 15, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 226 87 87, www.blue-luzern.ch. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Thu, Fri 17:00 - 02:30. A­X DAS SCHWARZE SCHAF / DAS WEISSE SCHAF At ground level you will find Das Weisse Schaf bar, which translates as white sheep and opens earlier for predancing drinks and cocktails. Downstairs the black sheep, Das Schwarze Schaf dancing bar, plays commercial pop and club hits. Incidentally, the bars are not linked to the conservative Swiss People’s Party notorious black and white sheep poster campaign, referring to non-Swiss and Swiss citizens.QC‑4, Frankenstrasse 2, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 43 35, www.dasschwarzeschaf.ch. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00, Das Weisse Schaf: open 17:00 - 00:30, Fri & Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. A

ALTERNATIVE BARS NEUBAD A reflection of contemporary alternative culture in Lucerne, Neubad is a bar, bistro, performance space, urban garden and a coworking space for artists and creative industries. It is housed in the former city swimming baths, made lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife available by the city council for at least until 2020. In the evening it is a bar with events such as burger and piano night (a free beer if you get up to play the piano), round the table ping pong and swimming pool cinema. It offers affordable and creative menus on weekday lunchtimes, brunch Tue - Sun till 16:00 and a big flea market in the pool once a month. The newest addition is Klub in the basement, which has recently been refurbished and offers up new possibilities for gigs and dancing.QBireggstrasse 36, uSteghof, tel. (+41) 41 360 60 66, www.neubad.org. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 00:30, Sun 09:00 18:00. Closed Mon. E­N­K

PUBS & TAVERNS

OPEN-AIR BARS

DIE KNEIPE The kneipe is run by two locally renowned publicans Irene Bergmans and Claudia Egli, continuing the trend in the Bruchquartier of women-led establishments. A café by day and bar by night, it offers homemade soups and salads and if you are lucky a free small taster plate comes with your after-work drink. The golden brick walls, wooden furniture and stylish lighting make for a cosy place to meet friends for a drink or two.QA‑4, Klosterstrasse 5, uHirzenhof, tel. (+41) 41 541 50 15, www.die-kneipe.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. N

Sunset Bar

BEACH CLUB (HOTEL MONTANA) Imagine a Miami beach club, but with views of an alpine lake and the Prealps. Soft, bright white furnishings create an ambience of heavenly purity, if you believe in a luxurious heaven, that is. You can cool off under the freestanding rainforest shower or in the whirlpool, but many simply choose to lounge around on sofas. The round bar serves up cocktails and snacks and there’s no admission fee.QE‑2, Adligenswilerstrasse 22, uCasino - Palace, tel. (+41) 41 419 00 00, www.hotel-montana.ch/beachclub. Opens May 19, 2017. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. A­ SUNSET BAR This summer bar located over the road from Hotel Seeburg is something of a lakeside oasis. Get comfortable in a chair, a hammock, a double bed (!) or with your feet dangling above the water on the pier, take a deep breath and relax in this chic outdoor hangout. It’s the perfect place for an after-work cocktail. They also offer a good selection of virgin cocktails or our personal favourite on a hot day, a bitter orange gazosa. There is a simple barbecue menu with burgers, bratwurst and salads.QSeeburgstrasse 53-61, uHotel Seeburg, tel. (+41) 41 375 55 55, www.sunsetbar.ch. Open 15:00 24:00, Sat & Sun 14:00 - 24:00.

Louis is a grand hotel bar with live jazz concerts.

PD

SHAMROCK IRISH PUB Love them or hate them, Irish pubs tend to be microcosms of international English speakers and this place is no different. It is run by an Irish publican pouring Guinness, Kilkenny and cider and offering up pub grub classics such as beef and Guinness stew, fish and chips and Walkers crisps. Pop along for the live traditional Irish music each Thursday night or the pub quiz on Sunday evenings, stumble into conversations with strangers, make new friends and enjoy the craic.QC‑3, Wagenbachgasse 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 63 25, www.shamrock-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. A­E facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

NEW VONHOTZ/SOMMERBOX This temporary bar will pop up for a month at the end of June at a central riverside location. Whilst serving up coffee, cold drinks and homemade sandwiches and snacks, it will also offer a steady cultural diet of concerts, theatre, readings, dance performances, film, spoken word and art. In fact, its chief aim is to de- and reconstruct the connection between culture, gastronomy and hospitality. Last year the wooden ‘Box’ venue appeared next to the Lucerne Theatre. It was a conscious move to make the theatre more accessible and shift away from a traditional theatre setting to attract new and younger audiences.QB‑4, Theaterplatz, uLuzern Bahnhof, www.vonhotz.ch. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue (June 21 - July 21). N­ April - June 2017 25


Nightlife ADULT ENTERTAINMENT Swiss laws are quite liberal in regard to the sex business: prostitution is legal, both on the streets and in brothels and similar establishments. Both are regulated however, and street prostitution particularly is only legal in very few areas. The time of strip cubs where half-naked ladies dance on a pole until they are entirely naked is apparently over, as the last strip club in Lucerne closed in winter 2016. What still exists are so called contact bars where you can meet a prostitute and accompany her to a room nearby, whereas in brothels, sex and sauna clubs the offer is even more direct. Many of these establishments are concentrated in the area around Baselstrasse and Bernstrasse. This somewhat shabby corner of town does not have the best reputation but it can’t be called dangerous. You can also find contact bars in the old town and Neustadt. As in other places, many prostitutes work because they have few other income options or, even worse, because they are forced to. Street prostitutes are particularly likely to be victims of human trafficking. BRÜGGLI Centrally located contact bar.QA‑4, Pfistergasse 2, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 18 57, www.nightlife-lucerne.ch. Open 10:00 - 02:30, Sun 16:00 - 00:30.

CLUBS CASINEUM Embedded within the Neo-Baroque lakeside Grand Casino building, Casineum is made up of three different spaces. The main hall, the gallery and the more minimalist club room. The program includes concerts, improvisation theatre battles and club nights.QD‑2, Haldenstrasse 6, uCasino, www.casineum.ch. Open usually Fri & Sat 22:00/23:00 - 04:00. Admission 15 - 20 Sfr. KLUB KEGELBAHN Klub Kegelbahn is part of the new party mile between Kasernenplatz along Baselstrasse to Kreuzstutz. The former bowling hall is now a meeting place for music lovers. The club owner likes good music, mostly electronic sounds like techno, house and its variations.QA‑3, Baselstrasse 24, uGütsch, www.klubkegelbahn.ch. Open Thu 21:00 late (in winter only), Fri & Sat 24:00 - late. ROK (AMERON HOTEL FLORA) Rok in the basement of Hotel Flora is both a club and an after-hours party. It plays host to label nights, club concerts and established DJs and the relaxed atmosphere and affordable drinks attract a young mixed crowd. If you are still wide-awake at 04:00 then you can keep on dancing here through until 09:00 on weekends.QB‑4, Seidenhofstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 41 90, www.rokklub.ch. Open Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 09:00.

Discover Switzerland’s simplest ticket. Valid for the public transport network Passepartout.

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26 Lucerne In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing Lucerne holds a whole hand of trump cards, the truly stunning natural setting, the intact historical old town, an impressive number of absorbing museums and the aura of nearly two hundred years as a world-renowned destination. You’ll find all the classics and our favourites in these listings. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s fee, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Note that museums are usually closed on Mondays.

MAIN SIGHTS Lucerne’s main sights are heavily marketed and known around the world - but still worth the visit. They range from the medieval bridges and fortifications and the 19thcentury attractions around the Lion Monument to the 21stcentury landmark of the KKL. You’ll find museums in our museum section.

Lucerne’s tourist trinity: Chapel Bridge, Lake Lucerne and Mount Gabriel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus Pilatus.

KAPELLBRÜCKE (CHAPEL BRIDGE) & WASSERTURM Lucerne’s most famous landmark is certainly the Chapel Bridge, which stretches across the entrance to the River Reuss (over nearly 203 metres) in a peculiar diagonal direction. Built in 1365 as part of Lucerne’s fortifications, it is the oldest covered wooden bridge still standing in Europe. Part of its fame is due to the originally more than 150 triangular paintings positioned inside the bridge in the gabels. The paintings date from the 17th century and show scenes from Lucerne’s and Switzerland’s history, and they can be seen as a mass media of the time, used to advocate allegiance to Catholicism during the Counter-Reformation. In 1993 a fire destroyed a large part of the bridge (towards the centre) including 78 of the paintings. When you walk across the bridge you will see burned, blackened paintings on either end which mark the point where the restored parts begin. The Chapel Bridge is really only complete with the octagonal Wasserturm, literally the ‘water tower’, which stands in the water next to it. Built before the bridge (i.e. before 1365), the Wasserturm was part of Lucerne’s military fortifications and was also used as a dungeon. It is seldom accessible to the public.QB‑4, uBahnhof. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

SPREUERBRÜCKE (MILL BRIDGE) Though overshadowed by the larger Chapel Bridge, the Spreuer Bridge is just as worthy of a visit. Built in the 16th century, it has the same triangular gable paintings as the Chapel Bridge, which are not known anywhere other than in these two bridges. The paintings here depict a danse macabre, reminding the observer of how we are all equal before death. The name comes from the German spreu meaning chaff (the husk around wheat grains), as this was the only bridge from which one was allowed to throw chaff into the river.QA‑3, uKasernenplatz.

MUSEUMS FOR LESS LUCERNE MUSEUM CARD / LION PASS The Lucerne Museum Card is a great deal, giving you free access to 10 museums in Lucerne on two consecutive days for just 36Sfr. You’re already saving money if you just go to three museums, and if one is the Transport Museum (30Sfr), you’re almost saving from the start. Another option is the Lion Pass (22/12Sfr), a combined ticket to the Gletschergarten and Bourbaki Panorama, saving you 5Sfr. QC‑4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, www.lucerne.com. Museum Card: 36Sfr. Available only at the tourist office at the main train station. No reduction for children, so not necessarily worthwhile for kids. Lion Pass: 22/12Sfr, available at Gletschergarten and Bourbaki Panorama.

Surrounded by magnificient Mountains D I S COV E R L A K E LU C E R N E BY B OAT D aily s r ture d ep a m fro rne Lu ce

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Sightseeing JESUITENKIRCHE Beautifully located right on the River Reuss, the Jesuitenkirche or Jesuit Church of St. Francis Xavier is one of the most magnificent Baroque churches in Switzerland. While it is very pleasing from outside along the river promenade, the rich, unchanged interior in pink and white is what really takes your breath away. Completed in 1677, the two towers were added in 1893.QB‑4, Bahnhofstrasse 11a, uFranziskanerplatz, www.jesuitenkirche-luzern.ch. Open 06:30 - 18:30, Mon, Thu 09:30 - 18:30.

LAKE LUCERNE

Lake Lucerne Cruises

Lake Lucerne is one of the things that makes Lucerne so exceptional. A walk along the shores is part of life in Lucerne, and the promenade along Schweizerhofquai and Nationalquai with the long double row of chestnut trees is the classic choice. But you can also go south from the KKL, towards the large lake-side park and Ufschötti bathing spot (15 min. walk) or even further to the Richard Wagner Museum. The lake also gives you access to a vast area filled to the brim with Alpine beauties. On a nice sunny day nothing can beat a cruise on the lake, whether you stay close to Lucerne or steam south towards the Alps. Due to the labyrinthine shape of the lake, new breathtaking vistas open up again and again. The long cruise down to Flüelen will take you to the Rütli and past the Tellsplatte, both involved in Switzerland’s founding myths. In German the lake is called Vierwaldstättersee, literally the lake of the four cantons, which refers to Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden and Lucerne. Barring Lucerne, these cantons are considered to be the birthplace of Switzerland and the William Tell saga plays in these mountain areas. LAKE LUCERNE CRUISES The Lake Lucerne navigation company operates a fleet of 19 passenger ships on the lake, from the paddle steamer Uri launched in 1901 to the sleek high-tech cruiser Saphir which dates from 2012. You can catch a ship for the 10-minute hop across to the Transport Museum, or spend up to 5.5 hours on a roundtrip cruise to Flüelen and back. Boats leave regularly from the piers around the KKL or from the piers on Schweizerhofquai. Snacks, drinks and often full meals are available from the bar on almost all connections.QC‑4, Bahnhofquai, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 367 67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch. Opening hours of the ticket office across from the railway station are roughly 08:30 - 17:00, sometimes closed at lunchtime. Adult fares, one-way, second-class are between 6Sfr and 46Sfr, depending on distance. Day pass 72/36Sfr. 28 Lucerne In Your Pocket

KKL LUCERNE (KULTUR- UND KONGRESSZENTRUM LUZERN) The striking KKL with its huge overhanging roof and its position right on the lake rivals even the Chapel Bridge as Lucerne’s major landmark. The concert and conference centre was completed in the year 2000, built to plans of Parisian architect Jean Nouvel. Its centrepiece is the concert hall with nearly 2000 seats which is used mostly for classical concerts. It has extraordinary acoustics thanks to acoustics engineer Russell Johnson.QC‑4, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 79 50, www.kkl-luzern.ch. On many Saturdays guided tours at 11:00, reservations required, tel. (+41) 41 226 79 50, 15/9Sfr. LÖWENDENKMAL (LION MONUMENT) While it is famous today, the Lion Monument enjoyed great fame in the 19th century. The stone sculpture dates from 1821 and was created by Lukas Ahorn to a design by Berthel Thowaldsen. It shows a dying lion, in an allegory for over eight hundred Swiss mercenaries who died in service in 1792. They belonged to the Swiss regiment which served French king Louis XVI, and were defending the Tuileries in Paris where the French royal family were living against revolutionaries. The royal family had long since fled, so the mercenaries were defending an empty palace.QC‑1, Denkmalstrasse 4, uLöwenplatz. Admission free. MUSEGGMAUER (MUSEGG WALL) The Musegg wall with its nine towers is part of the ramparts built in the 14th century to protect the town of Lucerne - as is the Chapel Bridge. The wall is astoundingly well preserved. The wall and four towers are open to the public in summer.QA‑3 to C‑2, uBrüggligasse, www.museggmauer.ch. Accessible 08:00 - 19:00, April to October. Admission free. NEW REUSSWEHR NEEDLE DAM The Reuss weir is one of the last remaining needle dams in the world. What’s a needle dam? It’s a weir, which maintains both the water level and the flow of the river through a series of thin pieces of wood, often called needles. You can tame the flow of the river by adding or subtracting these needles. It was built in 1859 by the French architect Chuaree and in 1998 the hydroelectric power plant was completely redesigned. It produces 4.3 million kWh per year, which is enough to power around 1,500 households in Lucerne. Between 2008 and 2011, the weir underwent lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing a 23 million Sfr renovation, which resulted in greater flood protection, preservation of the listed dam, better living conditions for plants and animals and the continuation of energy production. The water level of the lake can now be maintained at an optimum height regardless of weather conditions. No swimming is permitted between the Chapel and Mill bridges, but you might catch sight of surfers on the other side of the Mill Bridge.QA‑3, uKasernenplatz.

MUSEUMS BOURBAKI PANORAMA The Bourbaki Panorama is basically one huge painting. The circular painting which is 114 metres around and 10 metres high was painted in 1881 by Edouard Castres. It depicts a major military event of 1871 - 87,000 defeated French soldiers crossed the border into Switzerland, fleeing the Prussians. In Switzerland the soldiers were disarmed and looked after by the government and the public, giving rise to a humanitarian tradition. Paintings like this one were hugely popular at the time, before the advent of cinema! In the original panorama building from 1889 you can view this 19th-century attraction, as well as learn more about the event behind it thanks to the museum’s very state-of-the-art exhibition and film.QC‑2, Löwenplatz 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 412 30 30, www.bourbakipanorama.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 12/7Sfr, 1 adult and kids 24Sfr, 2 adults and kids 35Sfr.

A detail of the 114m-long Bourbaki panorama painting.

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FORUM SCHWEIZER GESCHICHTE SCHWYZ (FORUM OF SWISS HISTORY) Forum Schwyz is a historical museum housed in a former granary in the little town of Schwyz whose historical centre is worth a visit in itself. The museum’s main exhibition focuses on the early history of the Swiss confederation, using cutting-edge exhibition techniques. Forum Schwyz also hosts temporary exhibitions on historical and cultural topics (see p. 12). You can get to Schwyz by train or even better: by ship. Audio guides in English, French and Italian. QZeughausstrasse 5, Schwyz, tel. (+41) 58 466 80 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch/schwyz. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. 10/8Sfr, children up to 16 free.

EXCURSIONS

Bookings +41 (0)44 710 50 50 facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

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Sightseeing GLETSCHERGARTEN (GLACIER GARDEN) This Lucerne institution consists of three elements: a geological site formed by a glacier, a museum next door and a mirror maze dating from 1896. This quaint jumble of attractions is very 19th century, making this museum a museum piece in itself. The geological site is a set of deep funnels and channels worn into the bedrock by the glacier that once covered this area. The museum’s exhibition consists of relief models of Switzerland and exhibits about glaciers and avalanches. Finally, the mirror maze is pure 19th-century fairground fun.QC‑1, Denkmalstrasse 4, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 43 40, www.gletschergarten.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00. 15/8Sfr.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS

Saphir Boat Tour

GUIDED CITY WALK On this walking tour, a guide takes you past all of Lucerne’s major sights giving you historical and anecdotal background along the way. You’ll see places like the Chapel Bridge as well as some more hidden corners. Reservations aren’t needed, just turn up at the tourist information center before 09:45. In English and German.QC‑4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 227 17 17, www.luzern.com. Daily 09:45, duration approximately 2 hours. In April only Wed, Sat & Sun. 18/5Sfr. GUIDED TITLIS TOUR A bus takes you to Engelberg from where a cable car connection - with a revolving cable car on the last section - gets you up to Mount Titlis, towering more than 3,000m in eternal snow. The view of the Swiss Alps up here is simply breathtaking! You can visit the ice grotto, cross the ‘cliff walk’ suspension bridge or visit the glacier park where you can sledge all year round (weather permitting). The tour includes a multi-lingual guide and starts daily at 12:30. The meeting point is inside the Starbucks at Pilatusstrasse 1, just opposite the train station (located in the same buidling as Hotel Metropol). Book in advance by phone or on its website.QC‑4, Starbucks Coffee, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. 132/66Sfr.

SAMMLUNG ROSENGART This art collection concentrates on two very different figureheads of classical modernism: exuberant Pablo Picasso (1881 - 1973) and quiet, intense Paul Klee (1879 1940). The basement is entirely dedicated to Klee’s mostly small-scale, delicate works, while the ground floor houses a collection of Picassos from all periods of his work. The final, upper floor displays other modernist artists such as Chagall or Braque as well as some Picasso prints including some of Angela Rosengart. She is the founder of the museum and had a long and intense friendship with Picasso.QC‑4, Pilatusstrasse 10, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 220 16 60, www.rosengart.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. 18/10Sfr. SURVIVING UNDERGROUND SONNENBERG BUNKER TOURS During the Cold War a law was passed giving every Swiss resident the right to bunker space, a law still existing today. Lucerne is home to what was once the largest civilian bunker in the world, built between 1970 and 1976. If it ever had been needed, two motorway tunnels would have been sealed by four 350-ton gates, with enough room for 20,000 beds. The bunker was also equipped with a seven-floor, subterranean building. The tour provides a fascinating insight into Cold War times and the fear of the nuclear bomb.QBerglistrasse 33, uBerglistrasse, tel. (+41) 79 797 09 17, www.unterirdisch-ueberleben.ch. Public tours in English (2hrs) on the last Sunday of each month at 11:00. Book in advance, meeting point in front of the Jesuit Church, 30Sfr. Private tours available on request. N

SAPHIR BOAT TOUR This one-hour lake tour takes you around the arm of the lake on which Lucerne is located, and thanks to audio guides you get commentary on the landscapes and historic sites you’re gliding past in one of 11 available languages. The vessel you travel on is the Saphir, a brand new ship whose design is closely modelled on large, luxurious motor yachts.QC‑4, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 367 67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch. Up to eight tours daily between 10:15 and 19:00. In April, May and from Sept 11 until Oct 22, 2017 three to four daily tours. 25/15, SBB GA / half-fare card is valid, children under 6 free. 30 Lucerne In Your Pocket

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Old-town stroll Bridge (as well as on two other bridges). The depictions of the life of saints Leodegar and Mauritius could be read like comics by the mostly illiterate population, and the more than 200 scenes must have made a huge impact in this world with so few images. On the other shore of the Reuss our stroll goes right, along the river past Lucerne’s theatre built in 1839. If you look across the river you’ll get a good view of the Rathaus, the town-hall, on the other side. A few steps further along is the Jesuit church St. Franz Xaver (p. 28), a magnificent example of Swiss Baroque architecture. R o s enb

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Mountains & Nature There is a whole region around Lucerne waiting to be explored! Whether it’s mountain peaks or other natural wonders that make your heart beat faster - you’ll find it all and more on the following pages. Some destinations can be seen in half a day, but for most you’ll need a full day.

MOUNTAIN PEAKS You’ ll enjoy many magnificient vistas of the mountain giants surrounding the city on Lucerne’s streets and squares. But why just admire them from afar? Many peaks are easily accessible and the views up there are something to be experienced! We list the classics Pilatus and Rigi and many more. If, however, you’d like to visit to more than one mountain peak, consider buying a Tell Pass (p. 34).

Mount Rigi in the delicate light of dusk.

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MOUNT RIGI Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for spectacular views of the Alps and the easy access. The majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and Lake Lauerz. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau is Europe’s first mountain railway. Don’t forget to bring a jacket as it can be chilly at 1,800 metres above sea level. At the top there are several restaurants, around 120 kilometres of hiking trails and covered picnic and barbecue spots. Hikers have the option of walking down just part of the way, as the train has several stops where you can jump back on. You can also combine with the aerial cable car from Rigi Kaltbad to Weggis, for instance

MOUNTAIN TOURS BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS Day trips organised by tour operators are an easy way to explore Switzerland and its gorgeous mountains. Forget the hassle with timetables, itineraries and the like. Just snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours, for example, offers daily trips to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and Jungfraujoch. And you can join them for an exciting day out in the Bernese Oberland including a cogwheel train ride up to Jungfraujoch, where an elevated alpine wonderland of ice, snow and rock awaits you. They also have a tour to Northern Switzerland, including stops in Zurich and the Rhine Falls, as well as many other tours (see website). The meeting point for their tours is inside the Starbucks coffee shop at Hotel Monopol, across the street from the main train station.Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50. on a round trip by boat from Lucerne to Vitznau, with return from Weggis. Accessible all year round. The train and bus connection to Vitznau takes about 1 hour, by ship it’s just as fast.Qfrom Vitznau, Weggis or ArthGoldau, tel. (+41) 41 399 87 87, www.rigi.ch. From Vitznau roughly rom 09:00 - 22:00. From Weggis daily from 08:00 - 19:00. From Arth-Goldau from 08:00 18:00. Check website for exact timetables. Return ticket 72/36Sfr. PILATUS Except in the very worst of weather you’ll see Mount Pilatus’ imposing peaks from almost anywhere in Lucerne. At 2132 metres a.s.l. it is the highest and most rugged of Lucerne’s three local mountains. Mediaeval legend connected Pilatus to Pontius Pilate (Pilatus in German and Latin), the Roman official who authorized the crucifixion of Jesus. The despised bureaucrat was said to be buried in a (no longer existing) lake on Pilatus. Climbing the mountain was banned by law until

VIEW TO A THRILL Explore Mt. Rigi now!

OPEN SKY Fully included in the Swiss Travel Pass

32 Lucerne In Your Pocket

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Mountains & Nature the 16th century, for fear this might provoke storms that would destroy Lucerne. The ban has long since fallen, and Pilatus is one of the most popular peaks to visit. With several restaurants, a hotel, rock-climbing, a rope park and a long summer toboggan run there are plenty of options. And there will always be the grassy slopes, the woods and hiking trails and the view far into the distance. You can reach Pilatus by the world’s steepest cog railway from Alpnachstad or by cable car from Kriens. Taking the train to Alpnachstad or the bus to Kriens, the whole trip takes around 1h15min. Qfrom Kriens (Schlossweg 1) or Alpnachstad, tel. (+41) 41 329 11 11, www.pilatus.ch. Cable car from Kriens runs daily 08:30 - 17:00, closed for revision Oct 23 - Nov 10, 2017. Cog railway runs daily from around mid-May until Nov 19, 2017. Return ticket to the peak 72/36Sfr. BRIENZER ROTHORN BY STEAM TRAIN AND CABLE CAR The Brienzer Rothorn (2351 meters asl) offers breathtaking views of the Alps. And it features one of the more remarkable ways to go up or down a mountain - a steam-driven rack and pinion train that is still much the same as in 1891, when this railroad was built. The Brienzer Rothorn is accessible from two sides actually so you can make it a roundtrip from Lucerne. E.g. go up from Sörenberg by cable car and use the steam train for the descent to Brienz. In the steam train you’ll sit in open

Hold on tight! The view from Pilatus onto the lake is elevating! PD

carriages and be able to take in breathtaking views of the Lakes Brienz and Thun and the Bernese Alps on the slow ride down. At the top of the Rothorn there is a restaurant and many hiking possibilities - and quite a view!Qtel. (+41) 33 952 22 22, www.brienz-rothorn-bahn.ch. Steam train runs May 13 - October 22, 2017. Until June 2 not up to the peak but only to Planalp. The steam train departs up to 8 times between 08:36 and 16:36, cable car runs 07:30 - 17:05. Tickets for a round trip from Lucerne are avaible at the Tourist Information Lucerne. Return tickets steam train only 88/44Sfr. Up to two kids per adult travel for free, otherwise 10Sfr. Cable car 38/19Sfr.

2132 possibilities above sea level

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Mountains & Nature TELL PASS

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If you plan on traveling over a few days in the Lake Lucerne region, it might be worthwhile picking up a Tell-Pass. One ticket allows you to travel on all trains, buses, boats and aerial cable ways including for example Pilatus, Rigi and Mount Titlis. You can choose between 2, 3, 4, 5 and 10 days of unrestricted travel. It’s great value: if you were to go up Mount Pilatus on one day and Mount Titlis on the next, the cable car passes alone would cost 161 Sfr and with the 2 Day Tell-Pass for 170 Sfr trains and busses are included too. Apart from transportation there are up to 20% discounts for activities like the Verkehrshaus. Buy your pass online or at the train station in Lucerne.Qwww.tellpass.ch. 2 days 170Sfr, 3 days 200Sfr, 4 days 220Sfr, 5 days 230Sfr, 10 days 280Sfr. Accompanied kids 30Sfr for 10 days.

STANSERHORN The Stanserhorn is an easily accessible peak with spectacular views of central Switzerland’s mountains and lakes. You can ride to the top on the world’s first open upper deck on a cablecar. The deck has room for up to 30 people to stand and enjoy the ride under the open sky. Getting to Stans from Lucerne by train takes around 20 minutes.QStansstaderstrasse 19, Stans, tel. (+41) 41 618 80 40, www.stanserhorn.ch. Runs April 8 - Nov 12, 2017 daily 08:15 - 16:30, from May on Fri & Sat until 22:00. In summer on days with nice weather book boarding passes in advance online (5Sfr), they guaratee you a certain time slot, so you don’t have to queue. Return ticket from Stans 74/37Sfr.

The great view from Mount Chäserrugg.

One ticket and all of Central Switzerland is yours!

Travel free on

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www.tell-pass.ch

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CHÄSERRUGG Toggenburg, a beautiful valley in the canton of St. Gallen, is a pleasant destination for a day trip to the foothills of the Alps where the hills are actually quite high. Public transport will get you to Unterwasser (around 2.5 hours) from where you have access to the cable car to Iltios and Mount Chäserrugg (2262m). At the top there’s a restaurant built by renowned Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron and a panorama trail with stunning views of Lake Walensee and the Alps. On a clear day you can see as many as six different countries and there are hiking options for all fitness levels. A stop at the playground at Iltios makes this family day trip completeQToggenburg Bergbahnen AG, Unterwasser, tel. (+41) 71 998 68 10, www.chaeserrugg.ch. Cable car to Iltios runs in 2017 on the weekends May 13 - 14 and 20 - 21, daily from May 25; upper section to Chäserrugg starts its summer season May 25 - 28, June weekends only, daily from June 24 - October 22. Return cable car ticket to Chäserrugg 58/29Sfr. SCHILTHORN - PIZ GLORIA On the Schilthorn, at almost 3000 metres a.s.l. you get an exhilarating view of the highest and most famous trinity of the Bernese alps, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (weather lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Mountains & Nature permitting!). The top station features the revolving Piz Gloria restaurant, and was the setting for the 1968 James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. There is a Bond exhibition on site. Getting up there is also quite exciting: from Stechelberg four sections of cable cars take you up to the peak in just over 30 minutes. It is possible to hike all the way up, but only for really experienced hikers. But the region around Mürren offers many enjoyable hiking options for less accomplished hikers too. From Lucerne, take a train to Interlaken (change in Bern), at Interlaken change to the one to Lauterbrunnen. From there a bus takes you to Stechelberg valley station (approx. 3 hours all in all).QSchilthornbahn, Mürren, www.schilthorn.ch. Runs at every 30 minutes from 7:55 - 15:55 (in peak summer from 7:25 - 18:25), in 2017 closed for maintenace April 24 - 28 and Nov 13 - Dec 8. Return fare from Lauterbrunnen 114/57Sfr. TITLIS - ENGELBERG From the village of Engelberg a rotating gondola takes you up to Titlis to more than 3,000 metres a.s.l. There you have spectacular views of the glacier and the dozens of mountains which totally surround you here. There are many ambitious hiking options as well as leisurely walks around the little lake Trübsee. Regular trains connect Lucerne to Engelberg in just under an hour.QGerschnistrasse 12, Engelberg, uEngelberg, tel. (+41) 41 639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. First ascent 08:30, last ascent 16:00. Runs all year, closed for maintenance Nov 6 - 17, 2017. Return ticket 92/46Sfr.

NATURAL WONDERS MOORACULUM SÖRENBERG Nature lovers will be happy to know that you’ll find a fascinating protected moor landscape at Rossweid above Sörenberg. The Mooraculum adventure park was created to educate its visitors about this unique natural habitat, as more than 90% of Switzerland’s exisiting moors have dissapeared in the past 100 years or so. Kids (and adults) can learn in a fun, playful way why it’s important to preserve moors and how to do it via several little adventures in the moor waterpark. A train and a bus (change to the bus in Schüpfheim) from Lucerne will bring you to Sörenberg in a little over an hour. From there a cable car takes you up to Rossweid. The area is also a perfect place for hiking and walking for the whole family and a restaurant is available at Rossweid. QBergbahnen Sörenberg, tel. (+41) 41 488 21 21, www.soerenberg.ch. Admission to the park free, cable car 20/10Sfr, family ticket (2 adults plus kids) for the cable car including 10Sfr voucher for the restaurant and ride on the toboogan run: 55Sfr. Cable car runs May 13 - Oct 22, 2017. RHEINFALL - EUROPE’S TALLEST WATERFALL A trip to Europe’s tallest waterfall makes for a great day out. Close to the city of Schaffhausen the water of the River Rhine plunges down an impressive 23 metres at a width of more than 150 metres. A frequent train facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

UNIQUE SWISS MOUNTAIN ARCHITECTURE BY HERZOG & DE MEURON 1. 5 HOUR FROM LUCERNE

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connection from Lucerne, with a change in Zurich (take the S9 train) gets you to Neuhausen Rheinfall in just under two hours. After a short walk from the station you’ll arrive at the bottom of the falls. From here, you can take a boat over to the visitor centre (2/1Sfr) or to the rock in the middle of the waterfall (every 10 minutes from 10:00 - 18:00 for 10/5Sfr; in April and October 11:00 - 17:00). Stairs lead up the rock where you’re afforded a fantastic view of the falls, spray included. The visitor centre features an exhibition about the history of the Rheinfall (5/3Sfr including access to the viewing platform).QNeuhausen am Rheinfall, www.rheinfall.ch.

Mein ENTLEBUCH

MOORACULUM adventure park in Sörenberg

April - June 2017 35


Lucerne for kids When it comes to holidays, children’s priorities are a bit different from those of their elders. Luckily, Lucerne has plenty to offer for the younger generations, from outdoor activities to interactive museums.

MUSEUMS HISTORICAL MUSEUM The historical museum of Lucerne calls itself depot, and that’s what it looks like: a storage house chock-a-block with historic artefacts from tiny needles to huge pieces of sculpture. But there is help! Every object has a bar code which you can scan with the hand-held scanner you get. It then tells you about the object on the display, in English or German. But much better than that is the children’s quiz - lots of kids love following the story the quiz tells, running up and down the four floors looking for the objects the scanner points them to. They can choose from several different themes, and there is even a prize!QA‑4, Pfistergasse 24, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 228 54 24, www.historischesmuseum.lu.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. 10/3Sfr, children under 6 free.

PARKS & SPORTS Walking around museums is alright, but kids need room to run and romp sometimes. For some action, try the following suggestions. HALLENBAD ALLMEND This indoor swimming pool offers water fun for all ages. There is a kids pool and a 55-metre tube slide for the more adventurous. You can choose from the five pools, all different sizes and temperatures, depending on whether you want to swim lengths (25-metre pool), dive (5-metre high diving boards) or relax (wellness pool with massage nozzles). The modern architecture and large windows allow for plenty of daylight and views over Mount Pilatus and surroundings. Watersports and swimming courses for kids and adults are on offer, check the website for the latest information.QZihlmattweg 46, uZihlmattweg, tel. (+41) 41 319 37 80, www.hallenbadluzern.ch. Open 06:00 – 22:00, Wed, Fri 07:30 – 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00.

A medieval marvel at the historical museum.

PD

PILATUS SEILPARK (ROPEPARK) All the thrill of climbing trees and whizzing along ropeways, James-Bond style, but secured better than a secret agent that’s a ropepark. This one is a whole spider’s web of ropebridges, climbing routes and ropeways set up between the mighty pine trees half-way up Mount Pilatus. Secured with a harness, you set off on different circuits which are classified by age and difficulty. Professional instruction is included. To get there, take the cable car from Kriens to Fräkmüntegg, all in all about 1h from Lucerne. There is a summer tobogganing run there as well.QFräkmüntegg, tel. (+41) 41 329 11 11, www.pilatus.ch. Open May - October daily 10:00 - 17:00, in July & August 10:00 17:30. 28/21Sfr, discounts for families. Price includes helmet, harness and gloves and is for a maximum stay of 3h. Minimum age 8 years, min. height 1.20m, max. weight 120kg. Closed in bad weather.

SHOPS SPIELKISTE Spielkiste, literally a box of playthings, is a well-stocked toy shop. Whether you’re looking for soft toys, lego and similar, board games, model kits or outdoor stuff like balls or wooden stilts, you’ll find it here. As well as baby toys and costumes during the carnival season.QB‑4, Seidenhofstrasse 10, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 05 80, www.spielkiste.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Swimming lessons & water sports courses www.hallenbadluzern.ch 36 Lucerne In Your Pocket

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Shopping For a town which is - after all - not very big, Lucerne has a surprisingly wide range of shopping options. If you’re buying watches, Lucerne can match or even top most larger destinations (see chapter Watches & Jewellery p. 40). But there is also an impressive range of fashion boutiques, some well stocked with the international luxury brands, while others focus on lesser known, carefully chosen Swiss and international designers. Being Switzerland, chocolates and other fine food products are well represented too. The two major shopping areas are in the old town between Schwanenplatz on the lake and Mühleplatz to the west (B/C-3), and in the Neustadt (the ‘new town’) between the railway station and Hirschengraben street (A/B/C-4).

ACCESSORIES ATELIER TREGER Anna and Markus are two young Swiss entrepreneurs who specialize in making aesthetic, made to measure pairs of braces. Much to the delight of hipsters and business people, old and young alike. Alongside the ‘trouser carriers’ as they are known as in German, they also create and produce two fashion collections a year, inspired by 1920s - 1950s designs.QBruchstrasse 45, uHirzenhof, tel. (+41) 41 240 08 36, www.treger.ch. Open Wed - Fri 10:00 - 12:00, 13:30 - 18:30. Sat 10:00 - 16:00 or by appointment. CHANGEMAKER Under the slogan of ‘ethics meets aesthetics’, Changemaker offers a wide range of brands and products committed to design and craftsmanship, many of which are conceived and produced locally. They offer clothing, jewellery, stationery, books, electronics, kitchenware and office equipment - a big selection in a small space.QB‑3, Kramgasse 9, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 440 66 20, www.changemaker.ch. Open 10:00 – 18:30, Thu 10:00 – 21:00, Sat 09:00 – 16:00. Closed Sun.

OPENING HOURS Most shops in the centre of Lucerne are open Mon - Fri 08:30 - 18:30, (closing time by local law) ‘latenight shopping’ is until 21:00 on Thu and Fri, though not all shops participate (more are open late on Thu). On Saturdays most shops open 09:00 - 16:00. On Sundays shops are generally closed, though there are exceptions for bakers, some jewellers, souvenir shops and others, and everything at the train station. as well as maps, toys and some stationery supplies.QC‑3, Hertensteinstrasse 44, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 417 25 25, www.buchhaus.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

DEPARTMENT STORES MANOR Manor is a stylish department store with an Italian flair. It specialises in young and casual fashion and mainly sells its own brands - though it has something for all needs. Besides that, there are departments for beauty, sports, household and home electronics. And last but not least a very good self-service restaurant on the top floor.QB‑3, Weggisgasse 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 419 76 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu, Fri 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

BOOKS NEW CO-MIX This independent comics, spray paint and record shop has somehow survived the test of time despite being surrounded by posh watch shops and hotels. Downstairs you’ll find comics, graphic novels, English books and animation DVDs, many of which are Japanese. At the back of the store a cramped spiral staircase leads upstairs where you’ll find a large selection of spray paints and an even larger vinyl collection featuring both new and old records. QA‑4, Pfistergasse 11, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 89 62, www.co-mix.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. STOCKER BOOKS Apparently the largest book shop in central Switzerland, Stocker just off Schwanenplatz stocks mainly German books, but it has a selection of English language literature, facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Colourful bags at Manor department store.

PD

FASHION BOUTIQUE MAI A small independent Neustadt boutique specializing in fashion, featuring both local and international designers. It’s selection includes the famous Swiss label Freitag, known for its bags, but it designs great clothes too. The shop is run by local designer Melanie Kunz and offers primarily clothing, but has a selection of jewellery, accessories and the odd piece of designer furniture. Look out for special events happening at the shop.QC‑5, Waldstätterstrasse 19, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 13 51, www.boutique-mai.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. April - June 2017 37


Shopping NEW GLORE This is proof that fair, eco-friendly and ethically produced clothing and accessories can also be stylish. All of Glore’s products use fair trade, quality fabrics that were created taking into account social responsibility in the production process. Brands such as Armedangels, Bleed and Freitag can be found on two levels and on the stairs in between. The staff are friendly, but not overbearing and there’s a spacious dressing room to see if a socially responsible look suits you.QB‑3, Löwengraben 12, uSchwanenplatz, www.glore.ch. Open 10:00 - 18.30, Thu 10:00 - 21.00, Sat 10:00 - 16.00. Closed Sun. MARC O’POLO Well, they specialise in casual, but it’s casual with style, we’d say. You’ll also find the accessories and shoes of this company with Swedish roots. The Lucerne store features all their latest collections for women - be it trousers, blouses, jackets or coats and more.QB‑3, Weinmarkt 6, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 84 00, www.marc-o-polo.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. MAX MARA The Italian fashion brand Max Mara was founded in 1951 by Achille Maramotti and is still family-owned. Today, it operates more than 2,000 shops in over 90 countries and the label is synonymous with clear design, high quality and style. The Lucerne store is run by a local company, Maison de Boer, and features the latest ready-to-wear collections for women as well as shoes and accessories.QB‑3, Kornmarktgasse 2, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 07 37, www.maisondeboer.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

FOOD SPECIALITIES CHOCOLATIER BACHMANN CHOCOLATE WORLD Local confectioner N°1 Bachmann has a wide range of chocolates, confectionery and cakes like the traditional Lucerne gingerbread cake. It’s also a bakery, with fresh

Eco-friendly and stylish clothing at Glore.

PD

bread and sandwiches and soups to go. This location has features a cafe, a ‘Chocolate World’ with a flowing chocolate wall and an extra wide selection of chocolates - more than 50 different kinds of pralines and chocolates! Many other stores throughout town.QC‑3, Schwanenplatz 7, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 227 70 70, www.confiserie.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Thu 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 17:30, Sun 09:30 - 18:00. MAX CHOCOLATIER This small, sleek boutique in contemporary design just next to Hotel Schweizerhof sells chocolates, pralines and small cakes of outstanding quality. The pâtissiers actually make the treats on site and by hand.QC‑3, Schweizerhofquai 2, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 70 90, www.maxchocolatier.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun, In July & August Sun open 11:00 - 17:00.

OUTDOOR CLOTHING & SPORTS TRANSA - TRAVEL AND OUTDOOR Transa is the place for quality outdoor clothing and equipment. The team of staff are experienced specialists and can advise you on their product range and what would best fit your requirements. It might burn a hole in your wallet, but you can probably use what you buy here for the next ten or more years.QA‑4, Pfistergasse 23, uKasernenplatz, www.transa.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

SHOPPING CENTRES

K o r n m a r K t g a s s e 2 · 6 0 0 4 L u z e r n · t e L e f o n 0 41 410 07 37

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38 Lucerne In Your Pocket

EMMEN CENTER This is central Switzerland’s largest shopping centre. It’s located in Emmenbrücke, a 15 minutes bus ride from Lucerne. Here you’ll find more than 80 shops on 30’000m2 including the fashion stores PKZ, Schild and C&A, jeweller Kurz and the department store Manor just to name a few. QStauffacherstrasse 1, Emmenbrücke, uEmmen Center, tel. (+41) 41 260 61 12, www.emmencenter.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 16:00. Closed Sun. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Shopping SOUVENIRS HARRY’S SOUVENIR SHOP This shop on lively Pfistergasse has the full souvenir range Swiss pocket knives, jumpers and t-shirts with Switzerland prints, postcards and trinkets, some watches as well as a whole wall of Swiss and German cuckoo clocks.QA‑4, Pfistergasse 6, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 88 88, www.harryslucerne.ch. Open daily (incl. Sunday) 08:30 - 18:30.

FLOWING

CHOCOLATE WALL

SCHMOCKER SOUVENIRS Whether Swiss Army knives, cow bells, key rings, shirts, postcards, cuckoo clocks or almost any other imagineable souvenir - you ‘ll find it at Schmocker’s shop. They also stock Swiss handicraft like dolls, music boxes and finest wood carvings and watches.QD‑2, St.Leodegar-Str. 2, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 32 50, www.schmocker-souvenirs.ch. Open daily (incl. Sundays) 10:00 - 12:00, 13:30 - 18:00. SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. QB‑3, Kapellgasse 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 266 07 36, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. VICTORINOX STORE Victorinox has its very own shop in the old town, where it sells not only a good selection of its Swiss Army knives, but also kitchen knives, watches, luggage, leisure clothing and perfume. Although it’s the pocket knives for which it is so rightfully famous, its corkscrews and bottle openers also make excellent gifts. You can even have your knife engraved to make it that much more special.QHirschenplatz 12, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 412 28 30, www.victorinox.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Thu 09:30 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

CASAGRANDE GIFT SHOP Casagrande, conveniently located on Schwanenplatz between the lake and the old town, stocks a large range of Swiss souvenirs including cuckoo clocks, Swiss army knives (free engraving with purchase), many watches, clothing, chocolate and much more over three floors. They also offer longer opening hours compared to most shops in the city and shipping options. Sister shop at Kapellgasse 24 (B-3). QC‑3, Grendel 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 60 60, www.casagrande.ch. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:30. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

April - June 2017 39


Watches & Jewellery

W W! Welcome to Switzerland’s first destination for watches and jewelry with a selection of more than 50 exclusive brands.

Lucerne is one of the major marketplaces for Swiss watches, with dozens of brands on offer. Use our watchfinder pages (overleaf ) to locate the one you’re after or just browse through the more than two dozen boutiques, most of them located around Schwanenplatz. BUCHERER Established in 1888 in Lucerne, Bucherer is a leading jewellery and Swiss watch boutique. They offer top brands like Rolex, IWC, Longines and Rado as well as their own brand Carl F. Bucherer. This huge store also stocks Victorinox pocket knives and Swarovski crystals.QC‑3, Schwanenplatz 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 369 77 00, www.bucherer.com. Open daily 09:00 - 19:00,

Schwanenplatz, where all watch hunting begins in Lucerne.

LIYP

CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 80 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweller in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant, Tissot or their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels.QB‑3, Kramgasse 8, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 18 80, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

www.christ-swiss.ch

INTERL AKEN | LUZERN | ZÜRICH | GENF | L AUSANNE | MONTREUX | LOCARNO

40 Lucerne In Your Pocket

EMBASSY Just off the Chapel Bridge, Embassy stock some of the most luxurious watch brands. You will find Piaget, Bulgari, A. Lange & Söhne or IWC besides many others, as well as a fine selection of jewellery by jewellers like Pomellato. Sister boutique at Grendelstrasse 2, see the brands on offer there on p. 42.QC‑3, Kapellplatz 12, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 50 80, www.embassy.ch. Open 09:00 12:30, 13:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. HESS UHREN These mechanic watches are manufactured in Luzern! Walter Hess and his wife Judith have spent many years developing the design of their very own watches. In 2014 they opened a workshop and shop where they mount and sell the three different models they produce so far: the TWO.1, the TWO.2 and the TWO.2 Diamond Dust. Go and have a peek!QStiftstrasse 4, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 322 44 88, www.hessuhren.ch. Open 14:00 - 18:30, Sat 12:00 - 16:00 and by appointment. Closed Sun - Tue. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Watches & Jewellery HOUSE OF CHRONOSWISS Chronoswiss produce their mechanical watches right in the centre of Lucerne. The best thing about it: their House of Chronsowiss is open to visitors. You can actually watch the watchmakers as they produce the timepieces. Moreover, there is a whole exhibition explaining the watchmaking. And there is a boutique where you can buy the famed watches.QC‑2, Löwenstrasse 16b, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 552 21 80, www.chronoswiss.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. KURZ JEWELLERY & WATCHES Kurz offers a wide selection of mainly Swiss watches like Omega, Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado, Longines and many more, as well as a large selection of jewellery e.g. by Ole Lynggaard and Chopard.QWeggisgasse 25, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 419 40 20, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. LES AMBASSADEURS Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery at Les Ambassadeurs. They have long established partnerships with leading brands such as as Blancpain, Breitling, Girard-Perregaux, Hublot, Jaquet Droz, Tag Heuer, Ulysse Nardin as well as Ole Lynggaard and Pomellato. Their sales staff provide expert advice in many languages.QB‑3, Kapellplatz 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 227 10 50, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open daily incl. Sunday 09:00 - 18:30.

PARTIME Andreas Mossner produces graphic watches like you’ve probably never seen before.The Swiss timepiece designer’s Partime collection offers a unique yet playful approach to time. Unlike other watches the Partime Classic displays the time that has elapsed so far on a given day in blue and that which remains in white creating unusual graphic designs. The vertical axis indicates minutes while the horizontal axis counts the number of hours. Sound complicated? It’s actually quite simple when you look at the watch face but if you’re not in the mood to interpret time in new ways then just push a button and the standard digital time will appear. Local patriots and lovers of all things Swiss can also choose the Swiss Partime watch that features the iconic white Swiss cross on a red background. Each of the four arms appears over a quarter-hour interval and the cross only becomes complete at the top of the hour. You can find Partime at many local retailers (i.e. Casagrande, see p. 39) or on its webshop.QC‑3, Casagrande Gift Shop, Grendel 6, Schwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 60 60, www.partimewatch.com.

Madrigal lady Oval II

facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

April - June 2017 41


A. Lange & Söhne Alpina Audemars Piguet Balmain Baume & Mercier Blancpain Breguet Breitling Cartier Certina Charriol Chopard Chronoswiss Corum Ebel Edox Eterna Frederique Constant Girard Perregaux Hamilton Hermès Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaquet Droz Longines Louis Erard Maurice Lacroix Mido Mondaine Movado Omega Oris Panerai Partime Patek Philippe Piaget Rado Raymond Weil Roamer Rolex Swatch Swiss Military Hanowa TAG Heuer Tissot Vacheron Constantin Victorinox Swiss Army Zenith

Watches of Switzerland, Denkmalstrasse 1 - 5

Kurz, Weggisgasse 25

Les Ambassadeurs, Kapellplatz 5

Moser Uhren & Bijouterie AG, Hertensteinstrasse 17

Omega Boutique, Grendelstrasse 5

Panerai Boutique, Kapellplatz 9

Rado Boutique, Grendel 6

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Hermès, Schweizerhofquai 4

Chronoswiss, Löwenstrasse 16b

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Harry's Watch Center, Pfistergasse 10

CHRIST Uhren & Schmuck, Kramgasse 8

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Gübelin, Schweizerhofquai 1

Casagrande, Grendel 6

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Hotels Lucerne has an exceptional concentration of Grand Hotels, but there is accommodation for most other tastes and budgets as well. Sometimes rates are lower for the weekend, so if you’re flexible check when you book. Generally bathrooms are private and Wi-fi is available in the rooms, we specify where either is not the case. Rooms and public areas are usually non-smoking, but some hotels have smokers rooms and most have a smoking area. In Switzerland hotels are categorized with stars from one to five by two organizations, hotelleriesuisse and GastroSuisse. The former also gives qualifying hotels the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. The classifications are generally comparable. We list hotels according to their classification in the following categories: Cream of the Crop *****, Upmarket ****, Mid-range *** and Budget (0 to **). We also list several attractive places around Lucerne in our Out of town category, from ** to *****. Some of these are in nearby towns, others in unspoiled natural locations.

CREAM OF THE CROP SCHWEIZERHOF The elegant Neo-Renaissance Schweizerhof on the lake promenade has been setting standards in hospitality since 1845. Many rooms and all suites have breathtaking views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. The spacious, elegant rooms all have carpeted floors and classic furnishings.QC‑3, Schweizerhofquai, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 04 10, fax (+41) 41 410 29 71, www.schweizerhof-luzern.ch. 101 rooms. P­H­A­F­ K­D­w­W hhhhh THE HOTEL Designed by star architect Jean Nouvel (who also built Lucerne’s KKL), The Hotel is a luxury boutique hotel in the centre of the new town, in easy walking distance of the train station and the old town.QC‑5, Sempacherstrasse 14, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 86 00, fax (+41) 41 226 86 90, www.the-hotel.ch. 30  rooms. P­A­6­U­L­ K­W hhhhh

UPMARKET AMERON HOTEL FLORA The Ameron Flora has a very central location just around the corner from the Chapel Bridge and the train station. QB‑4, Seidenhofstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 227 66 66, fax (+41) 41 227 66 77, www.flora-hotel.ch. 161 rooms. P­H­A­6­L­K­W hhhh ART DECO HOTEL MONTANA Built in 1910 in the beginning Art Déco style, the Montana has been carefully and comprehensively renovated, bringing out the best of the original cleanlined, but luxurious design. With its hillside location it has wonderful views across the lake and to the Alps - and its own funicular which takes you down to the lake shore. The spacious rooms are kept in a modern style with 44 Lucerne In Your Pocket

The grand hotels on the lake promenade. iStock.com/Michał Ludwiczak

Art Déco accents.QE‑2, Adligenswilerstrasse 22, uCasinoPalace,tel.(+41)414190000,fax(+41)414190001,www.hotel -montana.ch. 64 rooms. H­A­6­U­K­W hhhh CONTINENTAL-PARK Reading lamps in Italian design and professionally applied colour schemes combined with carpets make for attractive rooms at the Continental-Park. Rooms are comprehensively equipped e.g. with slippers and an umbrella, apart from the standard flat-screen TV, telephone, minibar, safe etc. The inhouse restaurant bellini serves Ticinese, i.e. southern Swiss, and North-Italian specialities.QC‑5, Murbacherstrasse 4, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 228 90 50, fax (+41) 41 228 90 58, www.continental.ch. 92 rooms. P­H­A­6­U­L­ K­W hhhh GRAND HOTEL EUROPE The Europe is one of the handful of grand hotels built in Lucerne at the turn of the 20th century. The comfortable rooms combine a recent, refined design in matching colour tones with occasional antique pieces. The in-house restaurant Bellevue offers dining in a rich, Belle-Epoque ambiance. There are spa and sports facilities including tennis and golf.QF‑2, Haldenstrasse 59, uEurope, tel. (+41) 41 370 00 11, fax (+41) 41 370 10 31, www.europe -luzern.ch. 169 rooms. P­H­A­U­L­K­W hhhh

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lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Hotels HOTEL ASTORIA The Astoria is in the centre of the busy new town, but very close to the river and the old town. The modern building was designed by Swiss star architects Herzog & de Meuron. QB‑5, Pilatusstrasse 29, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 226 88 00, fax (+41) 41 210 42 62, www.astoria-luzern. ch. 252 rooms. P­H­A­6­U­F­L­K­W hhhh HOTEL MONOPOL LUZERN Literally just across from the train station, the Monopol was built in 1899 and has a Parisian-inspired façade with ornate Rococo elements. The generously-sized rooms are kept in a classic design. They are all equipped with flatscreen satellite TV, a minibar and a safe. There is an inhouse lounge and bar called Suite on the 7th floor.QC‑4, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 43 43, fax (+41) 41 226 43 44, www.monopolluzern.ch. 73 rooms. H­A­6­L­K­W hhhh

MID-RANGE AMBASSADOR The Ambassador occupies a modern building close to the Lion monument. The bright, modern rooms have hardwood floors, radio, safe and minibar and an unsurprising, cheerful furnishing style. Though there is no in-house restaurant, room service includes dishes from the nearby restaurant Lapin.QC‑2, Zürichstrasse 3, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 81 00, fax (+41) 41 418 81 90, www.ambassador.ch. 39 rooms. A­6L ­ ­W hhh BELLEVUE The Bellevue is on the green eastern edge of Lucerne a few 100m from the lake shore, but still only 12 minutes by bus from the centre. The clean, simple rooms have carpeted floors, large windows and many have a balcony with views of the mountains. They come with a flat-screen TV, radio, telephone and minibar.QSeeburgstrasse 79, uHermitage, tel. (+41) 41 371 27 27, fax (+41) 41 371 27 28, www.bellevue-luzern.ch. 19  rooms. T­A­6­ F­L­D­W hhh DE LA PAIX The De la Paix boasts a central location just on the edge of the old town, in a handsome early 20th-century town house and a reputation for friendly service. The bright, modern rooms have hardwood floors, TV, radio, safe and minibar. The furnishing is straightforward, with warm colours and wood touches.QC‑2, Museggstrasse 2, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 80 00, fax (+41) 41 418 81 90, www.de-la-paix.ch. 39 rooms. H­A­6­L­ K­W hhh

Hofkirche, the lake and Mount Rigi in the background. 

Luzern Tourismus/Emanuel Ammon

RADISSON BLU The modern monolith of the Radisson is situated just behind the train station, towards the lake. Inside, the design remains decidedly modern, with strong colours and organic shapes, though calmer in the rooms themselves. QD‑5, Inseliquai 12, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 369 90 00, fax (+41) 41 369 90 01, www.radissonblu.com/hotel -lucerne. 189 rooms. P­H­A­UF ­ L ­ ­K­D­W hhhh ROMANTIK HOTEL WILDEN MANN The Wilden Mann is a thoughtfully run hotel with a rich history of five hundred years which you can feel at every step. Though each room is different, all are warmly furnished with carpets, rich fabrics, antique furniture with classic upholstery and carved wood and intricate parquet flooring.QB‑4, Bahnhofstrasse 30, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 16 66, fax (+41) 41 210 16 26, www.wilden -mann.ch. 48 rooms. A­6­L­K­W hhhh facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

HOTEL ALPINA LUZERN The Alpina with its very central and yet quiet location is a well-run, friendly tourist hotel. The rooms are furnished in a straightforward style, with either hardwood floors or carpets. All rooms have private bathrooms, hairdryers, telephones and flat-screen satellite TV and radio.QC‑4, Frankenstrasse 6, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 00 77, fax + 41 41 210 89 44, www.alpina-luzern.ch. 36 rooms. H­A­6­L­K­W hhh

APARTMENTS GLANDON APARTMENTS In the very centre of the city, Glandon offers 31 business apartments and 41 furnished apartments in classic style with stucco walls, behind an Art Nouveau facade. Every apartment has a separate bathroom, a TV, wi-fi and a built-in kitchen. The minimum rental period is one month, the rent includes linen and towels, power-supply, heating, warm-water and a cleaning service every second week.QC-2, Hofstrasse 9,11,14, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 501 50 50, www.glandon-apartments.com/lucerne. April - June 2017 45


Hotels HOTEL DREI KÖNIGE The Drei Könige is in a quiet location about five minutes’ walk from the river Reuss, the old town and many sights. It occupies an Art Nouveau 7-story town house. The plain, clean rooms have furnishings with dark wood finishes and carpeted or parquet floors. They all have a flat-screen TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer. An unusual asset is the huge model railway in the attic. It is possible to arrange a visit, but access is not guaranteed. Just ask the friendly receptionists. QA‑4, Bruchstrassse 35, uKlosterstrasse, tel. (+41) 41 248 04 80, fax (+41) 41 248 04 90, www.drei-koenige.ch. 60 rooms. A­U­L­W hhh

mountains. Public transport gets you to Lucerne in just under 30 min.QZumhofstrasse, Kriens, tel. (+41) 41 320 66 44, fax (+41) 41 320 66 14, www.hotelsonnenberg.ch. 14 rooms. T­H­A­6­L­K­W

IBIS STYLES LUZERN CITY Just next to the Bourbaki Panorama, this hotel is a few minutes on foot from the old town and the lake. The rooms have an attractive, pop-inspired design with accents in bright colours and dark carpeted or laminate floors. They are all equipped with a flat-screen TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer.QC‑2, Friedenstrasse 8, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 48 48, fax (+41) 41 418 48 18, www.ibisstyles.com. 115 rooms. P­T­H­A­6­K­W hhh

OUT OF TOWN

LUZERNERHOF The Luzernerhof boasts a central location, near the lake and the Lion Monument. The rooms with laminate floors, colourful touches on the walls all have a TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer. Bathrooms have either a shower or bath.QC‑2, Alpenstrasse 3, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 418 47 47, fax (+41) 41 418 47 49, www.luzernerhof.ch. 76 rooms. P­A­L­W hhh

BUDGET ALPHA The Alpha is a clean, well-run hotel, with simple but cosy rooms. Single rooms share bathrooms as do some of the doubles and triples. The Alpha has two lounges with TV and books. From this quiet location it’s 5 min by bus from the railway station and 15 min on foot to the old town. QA‑5, Pilatusstrasse 66, uPilatusplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 42 80, fax (+41) 41 240 91 31, www.hotelalpha.ch. 47 rooms. T­A­6­L­W FALKEN The privately-run Falken has a extremely central location in the old town, just around the corner from Schwanenplatz. Perfect for watch shopping! The rooms are small, but welllit, their style is simple and functional. All have a TV, hairdryer and a safe.QB‑3, Falkengasse 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 37 37, fax (+41) 41 410 37 38, www.hotel -falken.ch. 15 rooms. A­6­W SONNENBERG Sonnenberg means ‘sun mountain’ and that describes this hotel and its bucolic location well. On a hill above Kriens, the Sonnenberg offers panoramic views of the lake and 46 Lucerne In Your Pocket

TOURIST Though a simple hotel, the Tourist has a wonderfully central location, on the edge of the old town, right by the river Reuss. The elementary but attractive rooms have TVs, hairdryers and some even have balconies facing the river, though there is a road inbetween.QA‑3, St. Karliquai 12, uBrüggligasse, tel. (+41) 41 410 24 74, fax (+41) 41 410 84 14, www.touristhotel.ch. 25 rooms. A­U­W

ARCADE SINS The Arcade is a hotel with business meeting facilities in the village of Sins, roughly 20km from Lucerne. Its well appointed rooms have parquet floors, contemporary furniture and flat-screen TVs, as well as a telephone, safe and hairdryer. The fastest train connection to Lucerne takes under 30min.QLuzernerstrasse 31, Sins, tel. (+41) 41 789 78 78, fax (+41) 41 789 78 79, www.hotel-arcade.ch. 63 rooms. P­H­A­6­U­F­ L­K­W hhh HOTEL UND BILDUNGSZENTRUM MATT Set in the gentle, green hills west of Lucerne, the Matt is a hotel as well as a compact seminar and conference centre. There are many hiking options right on the doorstep. QMattstrasse 19, Schwarzenberg bei Luzern, tel. (+41) 41 499 70 99, fax (+41) 41 499 70 90, www.bzmatt.ch. 49 rooms. T­H­A­6­U­L­K­W VILLA HONEGG If you want to escape into nature for a luxurious break, this small boutique five-star superior hotel is located on Mount Bürgenstock, 20 minutes’ drive from Lucerne. E-bikes and golf carts are available free of charge for guests to explore the surroundings.QHonegg, Ennetbürgen, tel. (+41) 41 618 32 00, fax (+41) 41 618 32 01, www.villa-honegg.ch. 18 rooms. P­T­H­A­ 6­U­F­L­B­K­C­W hhhhh

HOSTEL LUZERN YOUTH HOSTEL This pleasant youth hostel is in a residential area on the edge of Lucerne, but a regular bus service gets you to the centre of town in just 12 minutes. Rooms are in good condition, have parquet flooring and many look out onto the garden. The hostel has a lounge area and a children’s corner.QSedelstrasse 12, uJugendherberge, tel. (+41) 41 420 88 00, fax (+41) 41 420 56 16, www.youthhostel.ch/luzern. 45 rooms. T­H­A­U­L­K lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Index Alpha46 Ambassador45 Ameron Hotel Flora 44 Anker23 Arcade Sins 46 Art Deco Hotel Montana 44 Atelier Treger 37 Beach Club (Hotel Montana) 25 Bellevue45 Blue24 Bourbaki Panorama 29 Boutique Mai 37 Brienzer Rothorn by steam train and cable car 33 Brüggli26 Bucherer40 Burgerstube (Hotel Wilden Mann)20 Capitol11 Casagrande Gift Shop 39 Casineum26 Changemaker37 Chäserrugg34 Château Gütsch 24 Chez Cassis 22 Chocolatier Bachmann Chocolate World 38 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 40 Co-Mix37 Continental-Park44 Das Schwarze Schaf / Das Weisse Schaf 24 De La Paix 45 Die Kneipe 25 Drei Könige 17 Embassy40 Emmen Center 38 Falken46 Fondue House 18 Forum Schweizer Geschichte Schwyz 29 Foxtrail14 Frigay Night (at El Cartel) 24 Glandon Apartments 45 Gletschergarten (Glacier Garden)30 Glore38 Gourmindia16 Grand Casino Luzern 23 Grand Hotel Europe 44 Grottino 1313 19 Guided city walk 30 Guided Titlis tour (Best of Switzerland Tours) 30 Hallenbad Allmend 36 Harry's Souvenir Shop 39

Helvetia20 Hess Uhren 40 Hinicht22 Historical museum 36 Hotel ALPINA Luzern 45 Hotel Astoria 45 Hotel Drei Könige 46 Hotel MONOPOL Luzern 45 Hotel und Bildungszentrum Matt46 House of Chronoswiss 41 Ibis Styles Luzern City 46 Jesuitenkirche28 Kapellbrücke & Wasserturm (Chapel Bridge) 27 KKL Lucerne 28 Klub Kegelbahn 26 Kurz Jewellery & Watches41 Lake Lucerne cruises 28 Les Ambassadeurs 41 LiLi Centre 12 Louis Bar (Art Déco Hotel Montana)24 Löwendenkmal (Lion Monument)28 Lucerne Museum Card / Lion Pass 27 Luzernerhof46 Luzern Youth Hostel 46 Luz Seebistro 22 Madeleine23 Manor37 Marc O'Polo 38 Mardi Gras 22 Max Chocolatier 38 Max Mara 38 Mekong16 Moderne11 Mooraculum Sörenberg 35 Mount Rigi 32 Museggmauer28 Neubad24 Pilatus32 Pilatus Seilpark (ropepark) 36 Punto Giusto 19 Radisson Blu 45 Raviolibar23 Restaurant zum Schlüssel16 Reusswehr28 Rheinfall - Europe's tallest waterfall35 Rok (Ameron Hotel Flora)26 Romantik Hotel Wilden Mann45 Sammlung Rosengart 30 Saphir boat tour 30 Schilthorn - Piz Gloria 34

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Perfect for outdoor dining on a balmy night: the restaurants on Emanuel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus Rathausquai.

Schmocker Souvenirs 39 Schweizer Heimatwerk 39 Schweizerhof44 Seebad14 Shamrock Irish Pub 25 SNG Lake Lucerne cruises & boats14 Sonnenberg46 Spielkiste36 Spreuerbrücke27 Stadtkeller21 Stand-Up Paddling (Strandbad Lido) 14 Stanserhorn34 Stattkino11 Stiefels Hopfenkranz 16 Stocker Books 37 Sunset Bar 25 Surviving Underground Sonnenberg Bunker Tours 30 Tassnim Orient 20 The Hotel 44

The Mexican 18 tibits19 Titlis - Engelberg 35 Tourist46 Transa - Travel and Outdoor 38 Ufschötti14 Victorinox Store 39 Villa Honegg 46 Villa Schweizerhof 17 vonHotz/SommerBox25 Wilhelm Tell (Schiffrestaurant)21 Wirtshaus Galliker 21 Wirtshaus Reussfaehre 21 Wolf Burger & Steak Bar 20 Zurich Pride 24 Zur Werkstatt 18

FEATURES INDEX Adult entertainment 26 Breakfast 22 Cheese restaurants 18 Cinemas 11 Lake Lucerne 28 Luzern or Lucerne? 7 Open-Air Bars 25 Queer Lucerne 24 Sightseeing tours 30 Swiss cuisine 17 April - June 2017 47


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Several stops on the border Mehrere Haltestellen auf between zones. The stops belong Zonengrenze. Haltestellen to several zones gehören zu mehreren Zonen

Zonenzones. für die Preisother berechnung doppelt gezählt.

The tarif zone 10* charged Die Tarifzone 10*iswird in

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Busse Bus routes

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Public transport and zone map Greater Lucerne Area Liniennetz und Tarifzonen Agglomeration Luzern

Brunnen (S3) St. Gallen (VAE)


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