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Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Lucerne July – September 2018

The William Tell Saga

Explore the sights of his legendary fight for freedom p.31

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Contents Advertisement

Arrival & Getting Around

5

Old-town stroll

32

7

Mountains & Nature

33

Of cogwheel railways and cable cars

Get your bearings

City Basics History

10

Lucerne for kids

Culture & Events 11

Major fun for minor citizens

Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Shopping

37 38

Summertime 14

Local delicacies and Swiss design

Swimming, sunbathing, walks and cruises

Mall of Switzerland

Restaurants

Fashion, restaurants, activities and more

15

Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more

Watches & Jewellery

Cafés

Where to find the one you’re loooking for

23

Chocolate, coffee and conversation

Hotels

Nightlife

From cream of the crop to down to earth

24

Bars, pubs and clubs

Sightseeing Churches, museums and city tours

42 44 48

Maps & Index 28

Index City map Public transport map

51 52-53 54

A great vista from Lucerne’s very own Pilatus mountain of Lake Lucerne, the Alps and the city of Lucerne on the left. There are plenty of other great mountains within easy reach, such as Mount Rigi, which you can see in the distance. Check out our Mountains & Nature  © iStock.com/udomkiat_thawiburut chapter on p. 33 for all your options.

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July – September 2018

3


Foreword Unlike other cities, Lucerne does not fall asleep culturally in the summer. In fact, cultural life reaches its climax when the festival season kicks off in July with the Blue Balls festival. It’s one of the country’s largest music and art festivals and its pop, rock, blues and world music concerts draw up to 100,000 visitors each year over nine days. Stars like Alanis Morissette, Eels and Asaf Adivan will rock the various stages, but you’ll find much more than just concerts. Art, video, films and discussions also play a large role at the festival. Open-air concerts and late-night sessions can also be enjoyed at Hotel Schweizerhof nearly for free (a festival pin for 20Sfr is required). Classical music connoisseurs will get their money’s worth at the Lucerne Festival in Summer, which starts in mid-August. It’s an institution here and will feature dozens of concerts at the KKL and elsewhere over a month by some of the world’s best musicians, conductors and composers. It will begin with a concert by the Lucerne Festival Orchestra. In addition to these massive events, there’s always something going on elsewhere, for example at Schüür, a venue featuring pop and rock music concerts. You can expect midnight concerts at the weekend with free admission during the summer months. And the city’s greatest assets are available here year-round: the lake, the mountains and the sights! Enjoy your Lucerne summer! Ahil Sritharan was born and raised in Lucerne and has lived here ever since. In the winter of 2017/18 he began sharing his knowledge of the city as editor of Lucerne In Your Pocket. He also studies management at the University of Lucerne and loves good food, football and travelling. ahil.sritharan@inyourpocket.com

25

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

MOBILE | ONLINE | PRINT

COVER STORY A centuries-old bridge over the calm waters of the River Reuss, the decorative façades of a fairy tale landscape and the clock tower of the town hall: this photo could only have been taken in Lucerne. © istock.com/AleksandarGeorgiev

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher pocket publishing GmbH, Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. (+41) 32 510 85 76, switzerland@inyourpocket​​​​​​​​​​​.com, www.inyourpocket.ch Office Lucerne, Lucerne In Your Pocket, lucerne@inyourpocket.com, (+41) 41 544 07 58 Yearly print run: 90 000 (3 x 30 000) ISSN 2296-8598 © pocket publishing GmbH 2018 Editor Ahil Sritharan, General Manager Lukas Füglister Copy editor Mārtiņš Zaprauskis, Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman Photos For photographers see photos Sales Ahil Sritharan, ahil.sritharan@inyourpocket.com, (+41) 41 544 07 58, Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, next issue’s closing date: September 25, 2018 Editor’s note & Copyright notice The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We assume no responsibiltiy for changes and errors. Content copyright pocket publishing GmbH. Photos copyright photographers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE Lucerne is easiest to reach from Zurich International Airport (ZRH), which has by far the most international connections compared to the two alternatives: EuroAirport Basel Mulhouse (BSL) and Airport Bern-Belp (BRN). Zurich airport handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at arrivals 1 and arrivals 2 just after you pass customs. There is a big public shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 and free Wi-fi for the first two hours. Just connect your device to ‘ZurichAirport’ and follow the instructions in your browser. Direct trains to Lucerne leave Zurich airport every hour and take 62 minutes. Trains that take just five minutes longer leave inbetween (change trains at Zurich HB). The train station is actually within the airport, on level -2 of the airport centre, where the main shopping area and check-in 3 are located. Train tickets can be bought at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Lucerne’s main train station is right in the centre of town, with the lake and the KKL to one side and the old town just a few minutes’ walk away. International and domestic connections leave and arrive here. At the station you will find ticket offices, tourist information as well as shopping. Buses and taxis depart right in front of the station. You can buy train tickets (also available at the many ticket machines) and tickets for public transport in Lucerne and also change money at the ticket office in the main hall. For time tables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call (+41) 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min).

ARRIVING BY BUS Some international long-distance bus connections are available from Lucerne. Since June 2018, there are, for the first time, domestic intercity buses in Switzerland, offering cheap, but slow connections. Currently, only Basel and Ticino are well connected from Lucerne. Visit www.swiss-express.ch. Buses arrive and leave at Inseliquai 10, just to the east of the main train station.

ARRIVING BY CAR The A2 Swiss motorway connects Lucerne to Italy to the south and Bern to the north. The A14 motorway comes from Zurich. This makes getting to Lucerne by car easy, but parking is scarce and expensive (20 - 40Sfr per day). For overnight parking, find a spot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00. Indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr (valid for a calendar year, available at petrol stations). Remember that facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

A remaining arch of Lucerne’s old train station in front of the new Emanuel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus one.

pedestrians on zebra-crossings without traffic lights always have the right of way. Cars must have their headlights switched on at all times. The legal alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential zones in Lucerne, the speed limit is often 30km/h. Fines are high and yes, Switzerland makes sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home driving licence in Switzerland as long as it is valid - if the licence is a non-EU and in a language not spoken in Switzerland or English, it is recommended that it be accompanied by an international licence.

TAXIS Licensed taxis in Lucerne are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. The city sets the following maximum fees for taxis: initial fee 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr/km up to 20Sfr, 3.50Sfr/km above 20Sfr, waiting time 66Sfr per hour. Most companies charge the maximum (exceptions: RF Taxi, initial fee 5Sfr). Taxi drivers have to and usually do use their metres. Cheating is rare. You’ll find taxis at official taxi stands at the train station, at Schwanenplatz and behind Hotel National. Here are some taxi companies: RF Taxi, (+41) 41 320 18 18, www.rftaxi.ch.QA Taxi Hess, (+41) 41 310 10 10, www.hesstaxi.ch QA

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5


Arriving & Getting Around BICYCLES Getting around town by bicycle is popular in Lucerne, and when the weather’s nice it’s a good option for visitors, too. NEXTBIKE - BIKE SHARING Nextbike is a bike sharing system where you can pick up bikes at any one of the 70 locations in town around the clock, by using its app or the hotline. When you enter the bike’s number in the app, it gives you the number code for the bike lock - and off you go. Fees are charged to your Visa or Mastercard. Before you can start you need to register online.Qtel. (+41) 41 50 80 800, www.nextbike.ch. 2Sfr for every hour or part of an hour, 20Sfr/24h.

CAR RENTAL All you need to rent a car in Switzerland is a credit card, an ID and a valid licence. Some companies do however also require a minimum age and minimum driving experience. AVIS QSternmatt 9, Kriens, uSchachenstrasse, tel. (+41) 41 310 16 16, www.avis.ch. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 13:30 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun closed. EUROPCAR QD‑4, Inseliquai 12a, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 57 22, www.europcar.ch. Open 07:15 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun closed.

Commuters at Lucerne’s main train station. iStock.com/NicolasMcComber

PUBLIC TRANSPORT TRAINS The punctuality of trains in Switzerland is legendary. You can almost set your watch to the departure times. The train network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting around Switzerland, trains are your best option - from Lucerne there are connections to all the major Swiss cities at least once an hour. The state-owned train company is called SBB. For time tables refer to www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold at vending machines and at the counters in Lucerne’s main train station. You can purchase single and return 6 Lucerne In Your Pocket

The Lion Monument commemorates Swiss mercenaries who died MikeNG/Shutterstock defending the French king in 1793.

tickets (valid for a journey and not just a certain train). Children up to five travel for free, from 6 - 16 years they pay the half-fare. If you plan on travelling around Switzerland a lot, get a half-fare card for one month for 120Sfr - and travel for half the fare on all public transport. Or get a Swiss Travel Pass which is valid for all kinds of public transport (225 - 458Sfr, depending on duration) and free entry to many museums (www.swisstravelsystem.com). For travelling in central Switzerland consider buying a Tell Pass, especially if you plan on heading to different mountain peaks. See p. 34 for details. If you board a train without a valid ticket, you will have to pay a fine of 90Sfr. Since the summer of 2018 there are, for the first time, some intercity buses operating in Switzerland, a cheaper but much slower travel option. The only reasonable connections from Lucerne so far are to Basel and the Ticino region. See www.swiss-express.ch. CITY TRANSPORT Lucerne’s public transport network includes buses and local trains. The ticket system is fairly simple: Lucerne’s regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. Lucerne city is zone number 10 (see map p. 54). Tickets are valid in the chosen zones on buses and local trains. As a visitor, zone 10 is probably all you’ll need, as all the sights are within this zone. A day pass for zone 10 valid for 24 hours costs 8.20Sfr (half-fare 6.20Sfr), a single ticket valid for one hour 4.10Sfr. Children under six travel for free, 6 - 16 year-olds pay the half-fare price, which actually is 3.10Sfr. All these tickets can be purchased with cash or credit cards at the ticket machines you find at almost every stop. The easiest is probably to use the Fairtiq app on your smartphone as it automatically charges you the best price for your ride. If you ride without a valid ticket, you risk a 90Sfr fine. With the Visitor Card issued for free by your hotel, public transport in zone 10 is included. Get advice about public transport at the Lucerne City Transport (VBL) sales points at the main train station or at Schwanenplatz. City transport runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30.There are night buses called nachtstern (www.nachtstern.ch) on Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun nights to surrounding areas. Tickets for 7Sfr or 10Sfr can only be bought from the driver. Day passes not valid. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


City Basics BASIC DATA Area Switzerland: 41285 km² Lucerne (canton): 1493 km² Lucerne (city): 29 km² Population Switzerland: 8 million Lucerne (city): 84,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Lucerne: German Local time Central European (GMT+1h)

CUSTOMS Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand, that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling to and from Switzerland. On the other hand, there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the appropriate customs authorities): Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250g (50) of smoking tobacco. Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. Other goods: Maximum value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. Goods over these limits must be declared when entering an EUcountry, additional taxes and VAT may apply. In Switzerland there is duty-free shopping for arriving air travellers as well.

DRINKING The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounced: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers (in Lucerne you‘ll usually find Eichhof, which now belongs to the Dutch Heineken breweries) are increasingly getting competition from innovative local brewers. Check out Luzerner Bier, Lozärner Bier (yep, not the same) or Appenzeller. Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. Traditional Swiss spirits include fruit brandies, cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the most common.

ELECTRICITY Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins (types C and J) - they can take europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor as well as from many other countries. Travellers from countries with a different voltage than 230 V additionally need a voltage converter. In modern hotels you might find multi-use sockets. Otherwise ask for an adaptor at the reception or buy one in a traveller’s or electronics shop.

EMERGENCY Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Fire brigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there is a walk-in medical centre (Permanence, see p. 8) for all kinds of consultations at the main train station. The emergency unit at the hospital is always open. HOSPITAL KANTONSSPITAL LUZERN Lucerne’s hospital has a 24-hour emergency walk-in service. Buses 18 and 19 go here from the train station. QA-1, Spitalstrasse, uKantonsspital, tel. (+41) 41 205 11 11, www.luks.ch. Open 24hrs.

VISITOR CARD LUCERNE

The KKL, a masterpiece by French architect Jean Nouvel. KKL Luzern

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The Visitor Card issued by Lucerne Tourism comes for free with an overnight stay in one of the city’s hotels. Since spring it’s now issued digitally to your smartphone (you can also print it). It includes free use of buses and trains within the city (zone 10) as well as access to free Wifi ‘Free Wifi - LUZERN.COM’ throughout the city and discounts on activities. Ask at your hotel.Q www.luzern.com/visitorcard July – September 2018

7


City Basics LANGUAGE SMARTS Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. Hello (formal)

Grüezi

(groo-e-tsi)

Goodbye (formal)

Adieu

(as in French)

Thank you

Merci

(mersi)

Sorry!

Entschuldigung!

(ent-shooldi-goong)

Excuse me!

Exgüsi!

(ex-gewsi)

Switzerland

D’Schwyz

(chviiits)

Cheers!

Zum Wohl!

(tsoom vol)

Lucerne

Lozärn

(Lo-tsaern)

PERMANENCE MEDCENTER This medical centre in the underground shopping area of the train station is the easiest place to go if you have any medical needs. Go to the reception desk when you arrive, you’ll then probably have to wait a while. It’s useful to have the details of your health insurance with you. QC-4, Bahnhofplatz, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 211 14 44, www.medcenter.ch. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 23:00, and non-stop Fri 07:00 - Sun 23:00.

PHARMACIES The pharmacy (Apotheke in German) with the longest opening hours is Benu in the underground shopping area of the main train station. It is open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00 ((+41) 41 220 13 13). If you are in urgent need of medication outside these hours contact (+41) 900 11 14 14 (3.23Sfr/min.).

PUBLIC WI-FI & INTERNET Surfing the internet over a mobile network can be very expensive when you’re abroad, due to roaming charges. Luckily, most hotels and many cafés, bars and restaurants offer free Wi-Fi and in the city centre around the station, at the lakeshore and Löwenstrasse and other popular

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locations there is even free public Wi-Fi. Simply search for the network ‘luzerner wlan’ on your device and open a browser. After you enter your phone number you will get an access code, which will allow you to surf for an hour for free. With the Visitor Card issued for free by your hotel, you get unlimited access to the ‘Free WiFi Luzern.com’ Wi-Fi, and you don’t even have to register separately. Ask at your hotel.

The Jesuit church of St. Franz Xaver with its two onion domes. Gabriel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus

LANGUAGE Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Lucerne lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, so-called Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German, socalled Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school. A lot of Swiss speak English fairly well, especially the younger generation. So generally getting by in English is no problem.

MAIL & PHONE Post The Swiss post is generally reliable, and also can take care of all your financial transactions. There are post offices all over the city - the university post office just next to the train station has long opening hours (see below). Dialling Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Lucerne’s code is (an additional!) (0)41. We list the country code before all telephone numbers in parentheses. Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore the (+41) country prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. POSTSTELLE UNIVERSITÄT Lucerne’s main post office with the longest opening hours. QC-4, Frohburgstrasse 3, uBahnhof. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


City Basics

Discover Switzerland’s simplest ticket. Valid for the public transport network Passepartout.

d nloa Dow ow n

.ch

MONEY & TIPPING

SMOKING

The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1,000 francs. The coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen. You can change your money at UMC Change, Frankenstr. 5 (tel. (+41) 41 211 00 50, C-4, just next to the station) or at the SBB Change at the train station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards are widely accepted. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, round it up or leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.

The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in publicly accessible buildings and public transport is generally illegal. In Lucerne however, restaurants and bars under 80m² can opt to be smoking venues. We mark them with X.

POLITICS The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, which retain some independence and have their own constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital and the seat of the parliament and the federal authorities. Switzerland is not a member of the EU but does, however, cooperate with the EU in many areas, such as on the Schengen visa and border agreement. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

TOURIST INFORMATION Right at the main train station.QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 227 17 17, www.luzern.com. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 January 2 Feb 28, March 4 & 5, 2019 April 19, 2019 April 22, 2019 May 30, 2019 June 10, 2019 June 20, 2019 August 1 October 2 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year Berchtold Day (local) Carnival (local) Good Friday Easter Monday Ascension Whit Monday Corpus Christi National Holiday St. Leodegar's Day (local) All Saint's Day (local) Christmas St. Stephen's Day July – September 2018

9


History LUCERNE IS BIG IN ROME XVI – XVII Century Religion became a big issue in the 1500s as the Reformation swept across Europe. Neighbouring confederates Zurich and Bern both grasped the new confession. Lucerne, however, remained with the old faith and became a centre of Catholicism, with new monasteries of the Capuchins, Jesuits and Ursulines being built in the 16th and 17th centuries. Faith also caused tensions (and wars!) within the Swiss confederacy, and Lucerne became the leader of the Catholic camp. In this role, Lucerne became the seat of the nuncio, the papal envoy, in 1586 and the seat of the Spanish ambassador in 1595.

PROFITS FROM THE WAR BUSINESS Leodegar, Lucerne’s patron saint on the doors of the Hofkirche. iStock.com/aimintang

THE ‘CITY OF LIGHT’ EMERGES Stone age – IX Century Although stone-age settlements and the Romans left a few traces, Lucerne doesn’t emerge out of the darkness of history until around 840. The name Luciaria is mentioned in documents, which may mean ‘place of light’ – it is a popular sobriquet for Lucerne today. This early mediaeval town consisted mainly of the Benedictine abbey of Saint Leodegar, who is the town’s patron saint, and the houses at either end of the bridge across the River Reuss.

A TRANS-ALPINE TRADE BOOM XII – XVII Century Lucerne was long a regional market town, and the weekly market on Tuesdays (still held today!) supplied the town’s hinterland for centuries. In the 13th century north-south trade across the Gotthard turned Lucerne into a major commercial centre. The trade across this Alpine pass mainly connected the Upper Rhine Plain and Milano, and boomed right up until the 17th century.

ALLIANCES WITH THE ‘FOREST COUNTIES’ XIII – XIV Century Preceding the 15th century, Lucerne was unproblematically under Habsburg rule. In 1332, due to a power struggle between the German kings Ludwig and Friedrich, Lucerne entered a pact with the three waldstätten or ‘forest counties’, Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden which encircle Lake Lucerne (or the Vierwaldstättersee, the ‘lake of the four forest counties’, as it is known locally). This military alliance was slowly to expand until it became the Swiss confederacy, the precursor of the modern Swiss state. 10 Lucerne In Your Pocket

XV – XIX Century Apart from trans-Alpine trade, a major source of income in Lucerne and its backcountry were mercenaries, young Swiss men who were sent to fight for France, Spain, the Duchy of Savoy or other powers of the day. Between ca. 1400 and 1800 around 50,000 men had left the Lucerne area to serve abroad – and the city of Lucerne only had a population of around 4000 for most of that period! While a few of the mercenaries came back rich, many did not come back at all and the well connected families who brokered the deals were the ones who benefited most.

NAPOLEON AND THE BEGINNING OF TOURISM XVIII – XIX Century In 1798 Lucerne lost its independence as Napoleon occupied the Swiss Confederacy and transformed it into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. After a return of the old powers, Switzerland was born in 1848, when the modern nation state was founded. In 1859 modernity reached Lucerne in the shape of the railway, and the town started expanding in earnest on the southern shore of the river. From 1830 onwards Lucerne had a new industry – tourism. The lake, the easily accessible mountains and some of the earliest mountain railways made it a favourite destination for the still very exclusive group of people who could afford to travel for pleasure. Many of the grand hotels and attractions like the Gletschergarten were built towards the end of the 19th century.

MODERN-DAY LUCERNE XX - XI Century In the 20th century, Lucerne developed into a vibrant centre for the region of Central Switzerland, becoming a university city in 2000. The concert hall KKL (p. 29) by architect Jean Nouvel was also opened in 2000, giving the town a new face. In the realm of culture Lucerne is famous for hosting the second largest – after Basel – and loudest Swiss carnival and the Lucerne Festival for classical music. The festival enjoys huge international renown, particularly due to Claudio Abbado who was head conductor from 2003 until his sudden death in 2014. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events Lucerne has a rich cultural life, a packed programme of excellent classical concerts at the KKL and elsewhere, opera and theatre at the Stadttheater and a host of venues for electronic music, pop, jazz, metal, etc. We list the most important events in the categories classical concerts, festivals, exhibitions, rock & pop concerts and film. Within these sections events are ordered by date. Of course, there are far more events than we can list. We recommend checking out kalender.null41.ch for more events (only in German, so click ‘Veranstaltungen’ on the left and the button marked ‘Stadt Luzern’ on the right).

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 28.09 19:30 » BADEN BADEN PHILHARMONIC: CLASSICAL-GALA

EXHIBITIONS

Conductor: Pavel Baleff. Works by Ludwig van Beethoven and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.QC-4, KKL, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, 58-148Sfr, www.kkl-luzern.ch.

The Baden Baden Philharmonic in action.

PD

12.10 19:30 » SALUT SALON

This chamber music ensemble including Angelika Bachmann (violin), Iris Siegfried (violin and vocals), AnneMonika von Twardowski (piano) and Sonja Lena Schmid (cello) know how to seduce their audience. They love to combine various genres like tango, chanson, folk and film music with classical music.QC-4, KKL, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, www.kkl-luzern.ch.

FESTIVALS 20.07 - 28.07 » BLUE BALLS FESTIVAL

The Blue Balls Festival is one of the largest music and art festivals in Switzerland, which includes 120 events spread over nine days that attract 100,000 visitors! Pop, blues, rock, soul, funk and world music concerts meet photography, art, video, film and discussions – all in and around the KKL congress centre. An open-air stage is available as well as late-night sessions at the Schweizerhof Hotel (no tickets necessary, but a Festival pin is required: 20Sfr). This year’s programme features Alanis Morisette, Tom Odell, Asaf Adivan, Eels, Milow and Black Rebel Motorcycle Club, to name just a few.QC‑4, KKL Lucerne, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, www.blueballs.ch. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

17.08 - 16.09 » LUCERNE FESTIVAL

Unlike most other cities in Europe, classical music doesn’t disappear from Lucerne’s repertoire during the summer as the ‘Lucerne Festival in Summer’ hosts dozens of great concerts. The Lucerne Festival is an institution here, bringing some of the world’s best musicians, conductors and composers of classical music, and other genres, to the lakeside. Since 2003, the festival has always been opened by the Lucerne Festival Orchestra, which is conducted by Riccardo Chailly. The theme for the 2018 edition will be ‘childhood’, with many events aimed at the youngest generation, or the audience of tomorrow, so to speak.QC‑4, KKL Lucerne, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 79 50, www.lucernefestival.ch.

01.04 - 30.11 » WAGNER IN COMICS

Because famed German composer Richard Wagner’s biography was as dramatic as the plot of many of his operas, Lucerne’s Wagner Museum takes a closer look at the composer’s journey through life at its special 2018 exhibition. In an unusual approach, the exhibition will display the graphic novel Wagner by Flavia Scuderi (2013). An app called Wagnerwahn and a documentary film were created to complement the comic and all of these cross-media products are also on display.QRichard Wagner Museum, Richard Wagner Weg 27, uWartegg, tel. (+41) 41 360 23 70, 10/5Sfr, www.richard-wagner-museum.ch Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

CINEMAS CAPITOL The Capitol shows a wide range of films from Hollywood to thrillers on six screens. Snacks and drinks for sale. You can reserve tickets at www.kitag. ch or at (+41) 900 400 400. The charge by phone is a quite hefty initial 1.50Sfr and 1.50Sfr each additional minute.QC‑5, Zentralstrasse 45, uBundesplatz, www.kitag.ch. MODERNE The Moderne with one screen belongs to the same chain as the Capitol and shows a wide range of films including studio and Hollywood films as well as thrillers and comedies. Snacks and drinks for sale. You can reserve tickets at www.kitag.ch or by phone at (+41) 900 400 400. The charges by phone are a quite hefty initial 1.50Sfr and 1.50Sfr each additional minute.QB‑5, Pilatusstr. 21, uKantonalbank, www.kitag.ch. STATTKINO Independent operator showing studio productions at the Bourbaki location. 105 seats.QC‑2, Löwenplatz 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 30 60, www.stattkino.ch. July – September 2018 11


Culture & Events 24.02 - 06.01 » CARNIVAL OF THE ANIMALS

The Kunstmuseum Luzern has been transformed into a menagerie! Horses, cows and goats, lions and tigers, eagles and centaurs, dinosaurs and dragons will populate the museum’s rooms, but in paintings, drawings, photographs and sculptures. The museum  has countless works depicting our animal relatives, both real and mythical. The 2018 Collection Presentation is devoted to the relationship between man and animal, which is often close, but not always simple. How are animals depicted in art and what does this say about our understanding of them? What role do they play in our technological and digital society? Is our treatment of them as pampered pets or mere food species-appropriate? What are the alternatives for a different relationship between living creatures in the future?QC‑4, Kunstmuseum Luzern, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 78 00, www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

14.04 - 30.09 » GENERAL SUVOROV - GREAT POWERS IN THE HIGH MOUNTAINS

Towards the end of the 18th century, Switzerland became a theatre of war between revolutionary France and the old European monarchies and was occupied by French troops. In 1799 the Russian tsar ordered a victorious general to withdraw from the battlefields in Italy and head for Switzerland to fight the French. This general was Alexander Suvorov. The dramatic campaign fought by the Russian

Russians fighting the French in the Swiss Alps. Learn more about it PD at the General Suvorov exhibition.

general in the Swiss Alps soon became the stuff of legends that live on today. The exhibition traces Suvorov’s journey across the Alps, describes the tremendous ordeals the Russian troops faced and tells of the incredible hardships the local mountain population suffered. In addition, the exhibition puts the campaign into the historical context of the French Revolution, the Coalition Wars and the fate of the Helvetic Republic.QForum Schweizer Geschichte Schwyz, Zeughausstrasse 5, Schwyz, tel. (+41) 58 466 80 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch/schwyz. Open 10:00 17:00. Closed Mon.

FILM INTL. COMMUNITY CENTRE LILI CENTRE Looking for the international community in Lucerne? Well look no further. This centre in its relaxed lakeside location offers up all kinds of events and is a great place to meet people. If you’re only in Lucerne for a short while, check out a wine tasting, a cultural event or just hang out in the relaxing atmosphere and enjoy free WiFi (admission 15Sfr per day). If, however, you plan on sticking around for a while you can become a member and tap into a wide range of facilities, activities and events to find a home away from home. These include job integration and German conversation workshops, information coffee mornings, help translating German documents, an English theatre group and TGIF nights with live music and the like. The programme is varied and constantly developing, so check www.lilicentre.ch for upcoming events and information. It also publishes a biannual magazine called Living in Luzern, with valuable information on getting settled in Lucerne.QE‑6, Alpenquai 40a, uWeinbergli, tel. (+41) 41 500 80 55, www.lilicentre.ch. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat & Sun. Open at other times for special events. Centre available for hire. Day pass 15Sfr, membership 99Sfr per year. 12 Lucerne In Your Pocket

11.07 - 19.08 » OPEN-AIR CINEMA

This open-air cinema is worth checking out even before the film starts! The outdoor grandstand faces the lake (Alpenquai 50), where a full-sized screen is placed, so you can watch a movie and enjoy the view of the water. Screenings include a mix of recent blockbusters, Swiss productions and classics. Films in English (marked Edf ) will be shown on July 14, 17, 24 and 30 and August 5 and 12, but check its website beforehand as the programme is subject to change. A restaurant is also available onsite.QF-6, Open Air Cinema Alpenquai, Alpenquai 50, www.open-air-kino.ch.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 25.07 20:30 » TOM ODELL / JODIE ABACUS

British songwriter Tom Odell reached platinum status with his 2013 debut ‘Long Way Down’. He gained a place in the hearts of fans with his songs about love and pain. His second album ‘Wrong Crowd’ will be followed by his latest album ‘Jubilee Road’ this summer. Also on stage: British R&B, soul and funk artist Jodie Abacus. QC-4, KKL, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, 75-95Sfr, www.blueballs.ch.

26.07 20:30 » ALANIS MORISSETTE

More than 50 million albums sold, seven Grammy Awards and absolute classics like Ironic - that’s Canadian pop lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events icon Alanis Morissette. After a five-year break, she’s finally back in Europe with her all-new record. Support: Alex Francis.QC-4, KKL, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, 100Sfr, www.blueballs.ch.

28.07 20:00 » ASAF AVIDAN

Asaf Avidan is one of the few Israeli singers and composers of his generation who is known beyond his homeland. His songs are sung by his characteristic four-octave voice, which is reminiscent of Janis Joplin or Robert Plant. He became famous after a remix of his song  One Day/Reckoning Song exploded on the charts.QC-4, KKL, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, 75-90Sfr, www.blueballs.com.

10.08 23:55 » KONFI TENSMANN

When local band Konfi Tensmann,  centred around its Californian-Zurich frontman Yannick Urbanczik,  start performing  their folk songs, a good time is guaranteed. Sweet and a little fiery, this midnight concert will be the perfect end to your day. Free admission.QC‑6, Konzerthaus Schüür, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 368 10 30, www.schuur.ch.

15.09 20:00 » METAL INFERNO: ENDEZZMA, COLDCELL & ASGARD

The three black metal bands Endezzma, ColdCell and Asgard will ensure a real metal thunderstorm at the alternative Sedel concert hall.QSedel, Sedelhof 2, uGopplismoos, tel. (+41) 41 420 63 10, www.sedel.ch.

Exhibition Major Powers in the High Mountains 14.4. – 30.9.18 facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

LaBrassbanda, the cult septet from Germany.

PD

12.10 21:00 » LABRASSBANDA

This cult septet from Bavaria, Germany rock with trumpets, trombones, tubas, bass and drums. They are also living proof that music works without language. There’s no need to understand the lyrics - it’s about the vibe. Support: Folkshilfe.QC‑6, Konzerthaus Schüür, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 368 10 30, 38Sfr, www.schuur.ch.

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July – September 2018 13


Summertime

A perfect day to take to the lake!

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Summertime ...and the living is easy. The living definitely does get easy in summer, when life in Lucerne moves outdoors. A grand summer day is of course ideal for visiting a mountain peak or exploring the lake region. That said, the lake is everyone’s favourite destination and it’s so pristine you can swim in it, which everyone does. Find our favourite places to swim and other actvities below. For some more urban summer easy living options like open-air bars, check out the appropriate box in our Nightlife chapter (p. 25).

SUMMER ACTIVITIES FOXTRAIL Foxtrail have developed their own portfolio of scavenger hunts in locations across Switzerland. In Lucerne, they offer several itineraries, a handful of which are available in English (and other languages, too). Working as a team (2 - 7 people), Lucerne becomes your playground. To stay on the trail of the fox, you need to break codes and find hidden messages together. While following the clues you pass some of the city’s highlights, but also some less explored corners of town. In short, it’s a novel way to discover a Swiss town or region! You can book your starting time on its website and with the accompanying documents you can do the trail at your own pace. If you get stuck, a helpline is available to help you advance.QC‑4, uLuzern Bahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 329 80 00, www.foxtrail.ch. Admission 31 41Sfr per person. SEEBAD - LAKE POOL This wooden bathing house originally opened in 1885 and underwent a full refurbishment in 2010. It is a wooden structure stretching out into the lake with two shallow pools - but most people choose to take the stairs at the far end into the open lake with stunning Alpine views. There is a small restaurant serving snacks, drinks and ice cream. After 20:00 swimming is prohibited, but it remains open with a relaxed bar vibe.QE‑2, Nationalquai, uCasino-Palace, tel. (+41) 41 410 18 12, www.seebadluzern.ch. Open May - September, 10:00 - 20:00 (19:00 in September), Sat & Sun 09:00 - 20:00 (19:00), bar/restaurant until 24:00. Admission 6/4Sr, free after 20:00. N­W­K 14 Lucerne In Your Pocket

SONNENBERG WALK This is an easily accessible walk through the Gütsch forest and on to Sonnenberg (1h), where you have picture postcard views of Lucerne and the Alps. You can start the walk from Hochbühlstrasse (A-4, bus stop Zähringerstrasse), then continue straight up the road, which becomes a steep path until you get to the Gütsch forest. Then follow the yellow signs to Sonnenberg. There are two restaurants on the way (one with mini-golf ) and a few farms which sell produce. Continue past Hotel Restaurant Sonnenberg and the funicular station and you’ll come to the first viewing point. Ten minutes on there is a second, with great views of Mount Pilatus. If you want to save your knees on the way down, take the funicular to Kriens and then hop on bus N°1 or 71 from Kriens Buschleife back to Lucerne.QA‑4, www.erlebnis-sonnenberg.ch. Funicular runs in summer 10:00 - 17:30. Return fare 12Sfr, kids free. UFSCHÖTTI If you walk along the lake from the main train station, past the KKL, Radisson Hotel, the shipyards and the sailing club you’ll come upon a small, hilly lawn. Welcome to Ufschötti! At the water’s edge there’s a small beach and a pop-up summer bar. It’s popular with families during the daytime and can get very busy on sunny weekends, but tends to be much calmer at other times. Apart from the bar, there’s a kiosk towards the road selling snacks, drinks and ice cream. There you’ll find toilets and changing rooms, too. In the evening Ufschötti is a popular hangout for young folk. QE‑5, Ufschötti, uBahnhof. Bar open until Sept 30, 15:00 - 24:00, 15:00 - 01:00, kiosk 10:00 - 22:00.

BOAT RENTALS & CRUISES LAKE LUCERNE CRUISES The Lake Lucerne navigation company operates a fleet of 19 passenger ships on the lake. You can catch a ship for the 10-minute hop across to the Transport Museum, or spend up to 5.5 hours on a roundtrip cruise to Flüelen and back. See p. 28. Q (+41) 41 367 67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch SNG BOATS & CRUISES Ready to put your captain’s cap on? Here you can rent boats to begin your own adventure on Lake Lucerne. You can take to the lake with pedal power on a humble pedalo, which is of course also a great bathing platform. Rowing boats, dinghies, yachts and motorboats can also be rented here. You will, however, need to prove that you have the requisite qualifications - apart from the captain’s cap. In summer they also offer regular lake cruises (60 minutes).QC‑3, Schwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 368 08 08, www.sng.ch. Open 10:00 - 20:00 (April 10:00 - 18:00. Cruises start in summer 12:15, 13:30, 14:45, 16:00, 17:15, 18:30 every day. Check by phone. Return cruise 19Sfr, 10Sfr (children 5-12), children under 5 free. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants SYMBOL KEY

PRICE KEY

A Credit cards accepted

X Smoker lounge

most mains under 25Sfr

E Live music

N No credit cards

€€

most mains 25-40Sfr

S Take away

C‑1 Map coordinates

€€€ most mains 40-55Sfr

u Nearest (trolley)bus stop

B Outdoor seating

€€€€ most mains over 55Sfr

Lucerne’s chefs have more to offer than Swiss classics or the Lucerner chögelipastetli. Lucerne culinary class goes from tasty take-aways to exquisite fine dining. You can also find food from many parts of Asia, Europe and the Americas, while many other places take their inspirations from a wide variety of regional cuisines. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. Prices are indicated with the € icons - € indicates most mains are under 25Sfr, €€ mains 25 - 40Sfr, €€€ mains 40 - 55Sfr, €€€€ most mains over 55Sfr. This applies to the evening menus, for lunch many restaurants offer special cheaper deals (on workdays). Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. The letter and the number (e.g. A-1) after the venue name indicate the coordinates for finding it on the map in the back of this guide.

Sushi presented in a lovely way at Kaiten.

PD

NEW SONG PI NONG Fresh Thai food right in the middle of Lucerne’s old town is what you’ll get at Song Pi Nong, a small restaurant named after a region of Thailand. It offers many iconic Thai dishes such as curries, soups, noodles, fish and much more. We had the Pad Thai, which is fried rice noodles with tender chicken, eggs, bean sprouts, crunchy peanuts and leek. It was delicious, but you can also order it with tofu, shrimp or pork. The service is attentive and friendly and the food is also available for takeaway, which is also a little cheaper. QC‑3, Sternenplatz 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 412 12 13, www.songpinong.ch. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 21:30, Sun closed. €€. AS

FINE DINING BAM BOU BY THOMAS (THE HOTEL) This chic romantic restaurant with a dark black and red interior has recently been refurbished by French architect Jean Nouvel. Chef Ralf Thomas has earned it 15 Gault & Millau points. He specialises in traditional French food with the occasional superfood boost and offers a couple of vegan dishes as well as set menus. Our salad was crunchy and fresh and the pumpkin soup aromatic and full of flavour. The beef we had as a main was cooked to perfection and came with a slightly sweet gravy and the service was friendly and attentive, the atmosphere refreshingly down to earth. It also has great lunch specials. QC‑5, Sempacherstrasse 14, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 226 86 10, www.bamboubythomas.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00, closed Mon, Sun. €€€. A

ASIAN KAITEN SUSHI-BAR This fine restaurant placing an emphasis on quality fish from environmentally sustainable partners will not disappoint, even if landlocked Switzerland may not seem like the most obvious place to seek out sushi. Kaiten sushi means conveyor belt sushi in Japanese. You pick and choose dishes off the belt depending on your preferences and appetite. The coloured ring on the plates you choose indicates the price. Kaiten also serves a selection of other Japanese dishes and desserts. A sister restaurant is available at Bleicherstrasse 23.QB‑5, Kauffmannweg 16, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 711 22 11, www.kaiten.ch. Open 11:30 13:30, 17:30 - 22:00, Sat 16:00 - 22:00, closed Sun. €€. AS facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Restaurant & Take-Away, Bleicherstr. 23, 6003 Luzern Sushi-Bar Luzern, Kauffmannweg 16 Sushi-Bar Sursee, Mühleplatz 6 Sushi-Bar Zug, Kolinplatz 9 www.kaiten.ch . 041 711 22 11

July – September 2018 15


Restaurants CHÂTEAU GÜTSCH Here you have a great view of the town, the lake and the mountains right from your dinner table. The dining area has floor-to-ceiling windows maximizing both the daylight and the view. The menu is classic – and they do the classics very well. We started with a French onion soup, followed by an incredibly tender beef fillet steak accompanied by a light, finely sliced potato gratin and finished with a tonka bean ice cream. Wines are primarily from Switzerland and Europe and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly. On weekdays it offers a three-course business lunch for around 39 Sfr, but you can also order à la carte.QKanonenstrasse, uGütsch, tel. (+41) 41 289 14 14, www.chateau-guetsch.ch. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. A­B VILLA SCHWEIZERHOF Villa Schweizerhof is hidden away in a lakeside housing complex and thus remains a well-kept secret (you will need to press the buzzer at a gate and follow the signs). This old villa was formerly the summer residence of a famous local family and used to be surrounded by an equestrian show jumping race course. The restaurant celebrates local cuisine using regional ingredients and Chef Marcel Ineichen, known for his love of herbs, has his own herb garden on the grounds. We ate the chef’s salad and homemade bread as a starter, followed by the fish of the day snatched fresh from the lake which included sides of homemade pasta, sauce and vegetables. The portions were appropriate and the flavours were simply epic. The climax of the experience was

Restaurant, café and hotel with a view! Since 1888. Kanonenstrasse (+41) 41 289 14 14

www.chateau-guetsch.ch 16 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Sharing plates is fun at Ammos.

PD

the vanilla pumpkin crisp dessert, which was sensational. Service was professional and down-to-earth, adding to the already relaxed atmosphere at this special place.QF‑2, Haldenstrasse 30, uDietschiberg, tel. (+41) 41 370 11 66, www.villa-schweizerhof.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue. €€€. A­B

FRENCH NEW BISTRO DU THÉATRE Located right next to Lucerne Theatre, Bistro du Theatre is a restaurant specialising in French cuisine like their speciality entrecôte Le Bistro, which is 180g of fresh local beef seared in homemade herb butter served with homemade, thinlycut French fries. It also offers other international dishes such as Thai tiger prawns or Greek salads as well as local meals like the Lucerne sausage and cheese salad. Those with large appetites can also order all-you-can-eat chicken wings served with a side of fries and homemade sauce, but only on Mondays. The interior is typical of a French restaurant with white tablecloths and candlelight. A bar with a great wine selection is also available and you can enjoy your food outside.QB‑4, Theaterstrasse 5, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 210 12 74, www.bistrodutheatre.ch. Open 11:00 - 22:30 , Thu 11:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:30. €€. AB BRASSERIE BODU This charming French brasserie, wine bar and café in the old town is a local favourite. In summer it provides a small terrace with a few tables overlooking the River Reuss and offers even more tables on the cobbled square next to Lucerne’s town hall. The menu includes all of the French classics including entrecôte, magret de canard (duck), tartare and plenty of fish and seafood options, as well as an accompanying seasonal menu and lots of fine wine. We chose the seabass with vegetables and were not disappointed.QB‑3, Kornmarkt 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 01 77, www.brasseriebodu.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 24:00, kitchen open until closing. €€. A­B lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants GREEK

CHEESE RESTAURANTS

AMMOS The fishing nets and ropes in this place remind us of a charming coastal town in Greece. We settled into the upholstered chairs by a beautiful wooden table decorated with a candle and orchid and began perusing the menu of classic Greek main courses such as homemade moussaka and souvlaki, as well as the equally-tempting selection of hot and cold mezze plates. We tried the fava (lukewarm served yellow pea mousse, cretan olive oil, onions, fresh parsley), garides saganaki (ouzo flambéed king prawns in a spicy tomato-pepperoni sauce, topped with feta cheese and parsley) and feta se filo (fried feta cheese in filo pastry, topped with black sesame seeds and thyme honey) and had no regrets. If, however, you’d prefer something warm and comforting, we recommend the fakes, a traditional aromatic lentil soup. There are also plenty of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options here, a rotating weekly two-course lunch offer and occasional live concerts.QA‑4, Pfistergasse 16 / Reusssteg 11, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 00 88, www.ammos.ch. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:30, closed Tue. A­B

INTERNATIONAL WEISSES SCHLOSS The White Castle has a charming ambience. On a warm evening take a seat on the terrace, where you can sit beneath vines in a fine al fresco atmosphere, where you hardly notice that you are between two roads. The menu is creative although a touch pricey, serving up both European and Asian classics with some fusion dishes, such as the seared lake char with wasabi and potato mash.QB‑5, Moosstrasse 7, uMoosegg, tel. (+41) 41 227 00 00, www.weissesschloss.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, closed Sun. €€. A­B

VILLA Schweizerhof Haldenstrasse 30 Luzern T. 041 370 11 66 villa-schweizerhof.ch Open Wed-Sun open Wed-Sun facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

iStock.com

The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, originally come from the French speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. Even though locals mainly eat these dishes during the cold time of the year, we definitely recommend trying them whatever the season - the listed restaurant below is a specialist, but it’s on offer in many Swiss restaurants too. FONDUE HOUSE LUZERN Fondue House is located inside Hotel Falken and is a good place to taste your way through everything fondue-like. The combo menus give you three fondues in one meal - choose from cheese, bourguignonne (meats in oil), chinoise (meats in broth) and chocolate. Bread, potatoes, sauces and more are served to dip and as sides. Not exactly authentic, as Swiss don’t mix fondues like this, but if you want to try everything in one go, this is your opportunity. The combos are not cheap, however. A second Fondue House is located Unter der Egg 10A.QB‑3, Falkengasse 4/6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 412 37 37, www.fondue-house.ch. Open 17:00 - 22:00, Closed Sun. €€. A­B

BEST ALPINE CHEESE FONDUE & RACLETTE

1st floor

HOTEL FALKEN

FALKENGASSE 4 + 6, 6004 LUZERN Please call +41 41 41 2 37 37 RESTAURANT@FONDUE-HOUSE.CH W W W. F O N D U E - H O U S E . C H

July – September 2018 17


Restaurants PIKANTE Hailed as the new sushi (it’s healthy, aestetic and has complex flavours), we are delighted to report the arrival of the Peruvian ceviche in Lucerne. We found this raw fish, marinated with citrus fruits, chilli and coriander and served with sweet potato and corn grains at Pikante, a Peruvian restaurant, which has an excellent chef from Lima. Our evening started with a complimentary appetizer followed by a shared ceviche starter. It was so tender, it literally melts in your mouth. The portion size is decent and it is comfortably spicy. For mains we took the delicately seasoned sudado de pescado, a kind of fish stew and causa, which is mashed potato covered with tuna fish and prawns with a yellow aji pepper sauce. We washed them down with a passion fruit pisco sour and Cusqueno beer. If you love peruvian food like we do, or if you are curious about new tastes and flavours, then Pikante is well worth a visit.QA‑4, Klostertrasse 4, uHirzenhof, tel. (+41) 41 248 48 48, www.pikante-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, closed Mon, Sun. €€€. A­B

ITALIAN GROTTINO 1313 This wooden hut in the industrial area of town is not what you would expect - it has long been considered one of Lucerne’s best-kept secrets. With a big fire, an open kitchen, candlelit tables and mamma-style Italian cooking it is hard to resist. There is a set menu with foru or five courses (66/78Sfr), but you can opt out on courses if you like. Soup, salad, pasta and main courses are served in big bowls and placed in the middle of your table for you to help yourself. They also serve two-course lunches (22 Sfr).QC‑6, Industriestrasse 7, uWerkhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 41 610 13 13, www.grottino1313.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30, Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 00:30, Sat 18:00 - 00:30, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. €€. A­B OSKAR This is a new Italian place, which has quickly built up a solid reputation for its pizza made with special homemade dough. Rightly so, we think. The place is cosy but can get a little warm inside, so maybe take a seat outside on the

Töpferstrasse 5 - Luzern | +41 41 410 26 64 | www.portofino-luzern.ch

18 Lucerne In Your Pocket

terrace on a summer’s eve. Beside pizza it offers a handful of seasonal pasta, risotto and meat dishes. One of the few restaurants in town offering gluten-free options.QA‑6, Neustadtstrasse 27, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 08 04, www.oskar-luzern.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:30 - 13:30, 17:00 - 24:00, closed Mon, Sun. €. A­B­S NEW PIZZERIA LA BARACCA Pizzeria La Baracca serves the typical Italian food canon as well as a great variety of pizzas including its house speciality with baby spinach, cherry tomatoes, potatoes, fior di latte, mozzarella, chives, fresh lobster and truffles. Tempting as it was, we ordered the pizza with fresh salami and olives, which is an Italian classic. You can also try other Italian favourites like lasagne, ravioli, risotto and many other tasty dishes. The unusual twisted wooden panels hanging from the ceiling make for a modern interior and La Baracca also has a small play area for children as well as outside seating.QB‑4, Theaterstrasse 6, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 310 12 12, www.labaracca-luzern.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:30, Closed Sun. €€. A­BS

Home-style Italian cooking in a wooden cottage: Grottino1313. PD

PORTOFINO Named after the fancy Italian fishing village just south of Genoa, Portofino is yet another Italian restaurant in Lucerne’s old town. This one, however, has a fresh and hip atmosphere that’s lacking in more traditional restaurants nearby. The wooden decor with matt walls and retro lighting offer a cosy and peaceful alternative to the bustling old town streets outside. There is a noticeable focus on healthy eating here, we started with the mixed salad followed by homemade pasta, both were simple but full of flavour. It has some more experimental fusion dishes on the menu too, such as an italian take on ceviche and steak tartare. The food came well presented and the prices were fair. A lunch menu is also available, call in advance to book a table as it can get busy on weekdays.QC‑2, Töpferstrasse 5, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 26 64, www.portofino-luzern.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 14:00, 17:30 00:00. Closed Sun. €€. A­B lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants VEGETARIAN

tibits

NEW KARLS KRAUT Here you can enjoy fresh organic vegan meals with a view of the River Reuss near Lucerne’s old town. For lunch you can create your own plate with up to four dishes, which vary each time. We had a savoury corn and herb cake, fennel salad with chick peas and a variety of baked vegetables and were quite satisfied with what we had. Its dinner menu includes dishes like zucchini rolls stuffed with sweet potato puree and a side of Duchess potatoes. The restaurant is spacious and has a classic, rustic décor. QA‑3, St. Karliquai 7, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 534 77 77, www.karlskraut.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 22:30, Thu, Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00, closed Mon. €€. AB

W

TIBITS tibits is a purely vegetarian restaurant with several vegan options. It’s very successful in many Swiss cities and even has a branch in London. The Lucerne locale can be found inside the train station on the first floor overlooking the tracks and all the hustle and bustle. But the focal point of tibits is the bounteous vegetarian buffet offering roughly 40 homemade salads, hot daily specials, soups and desserts. Round it off with a freshly squeezed juice or a beer if you prefer and enjoy the amazing food that’s made with 100% vegetarian or vegan ingredients.QC‑4, Zentralstrasse 1 (inside the station), uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 18 88, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00, food served until 30 minutes before closing. €€. A

HOFGARTEN It’s not strictly vegetarian anymore, but at Hofgarten they always have a fine selection of vegetarian dishes on the menu (i.e. polenta ticinese stlye or lemon risotto). Using primarily organic, animal-friendly, market fresh ingredients from local farmers, the food not only looks good but tastes delicious too. There is fish and meat on offer too, as well as great salads and homemade soups and a Swiss-Mediterranean menu. It operates as a café between meal times.QD‑2, Stadthofstrasse 14, uWey, tel. (+41) 41 410 88 88, www.hofgarten.ch. Open 11:30 - 13:45, 18:00 - 21:30. €€. A­B

GETTING THE BEST OUT OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.

Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant Bar Take Away Catering Lucerne train station, first floor|www.tibits.ch|www.tibits.co.uk|

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Restaurants MEDITERRANEAN

BARBECUE & BURGERS ANKER The original Anker, which opened in 1914, functioned as a political centre for the working classes and national strikes were even organised there. It shut its doors in 2014, but a new restaurant, café and bar rose up in its place as well as a 40-room hotel. With its alpine chic and modern extrovert design features, it feels rather apolitical these days. In the evening it’s a grill restaurant offering steaks, burgers, fish and sharing platters from the ‘josper’ charcoal grill oven, which is a real treat. With coffee, breakfast and newspapers in the morning, good-value daily lunch menus and a wide selection of wines and speciality gins, not to mention an open fire, this place offers something for everyone at any time of the day.QB‑5, Pilatusstrasse 36, uPilatusplatz, tel. (+41) 41 220 88 00, www.hotel-restaurant-anker.ch. Open 06:30 23:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 01:00. €€. A­B WOLF BURGER & STEAK BAR Cool restaurants serving quality burgers seem to be all the rage these days and this is one of latest editions to the scene in Lucerne. The focus here is on quality local free-range meat in its 180g burgers, steaks and spare ribs, but we’d like to add that attention is also paid to the homemade burger buns which are delicious, especially the whole wheat variety. Wash it down with a wide selection of craft beers from around the country, local wine or an interesting cocktail from the small but original drinks menu. Side dishes such as fries (with potatoes, sweet potatoes or dirty, which are oven baked potatoes with cheese and bacon), salads and vegetables all cost extra. The interior is modern and cosy with bar stool seating and large windows and on a sunny day you can eat outside on the popular Helvetiaplatz.QB‑5, Waldstätterstrasse 3, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 55 00, www.wolf-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 23:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. €€. A­B

OPUS The wine cellar here features bottles from all around the world and is used as a dining room for small groups - the most charming indoor dining area within the restaurant (request when booking). Alternatively, there is the large terrace overlooking the river Reuss. A personal favourite is the extensive salad and antipasti buffet featuring fish, shrimps, pasta salads, artichokes and much more. It also offers a range of à la carte dishes, from simple comfort food like the opus burger to the more creative pork fillet in a bacon coat.QB‑4, Bahnhofstrasse 16, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 41 41, www.restaurant-opus.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Tue 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:30, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B

SWISS As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see box Swiss cuisine p. 22), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box on p. 17. BURGERSTUBE (HOTEL WILDEN MANN) Burgerstube, which celebrated its 500th anniversary in 2017, offers a cosy, candlelit rustic interior that makes you feel as if you’ve journeyed back in time. You’ll find good traditional Swiss cuisine with a modern twist here, not to mention 14 Gault-Millau points. The menu mixes Swiss classics such as bratwurst, cordon bleu and the Lucerne speciality chögelipastetli with more experimental dishes such as poached scallops in elderberry sauce or a mixed spring salad with dandelion, red radish and sugar peas served with rhubarb-yogurt dressing. Over the centuries Burgerstube has also welcomed its fair share of celebrities including Italian film legend Sophia Loren.QA‑4, Bahnhofstrasse 30, uHirzenhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 16 66, www.wilden-mann.ch. Open 10:30 - 24:00, kitchen open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 22:00. €€. A

BEST PLACE FOR FOOD & WINE

SHARE THE MOMENT

Hotel Restaurant Anker, Pilatusstrasse 36 CH-6003 Luzern, T +41 (0)41 220 88 00 hotel-restaurant-anker.ch

Bahnhofstrasse 16, CH-6003 Luzern T 041 226 41 41, restaurant-opus.ch

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Restaurants HELVETIA The Helvetia with its brasserie atmosphere is a culinary reference in the Neustadt part of town. Whether it’s schnitzel or cordon bleu with meat from local, ethical farming or the daily fish from sustainable sources, the dishes here are made and served with skill and care. Also on the menu are variations on flammkuchen (the Alsatian take on pizza), home-made pasta and a nice choice of vegetarian dishes. The 1920s-style interior in white and dark wood is a pleasing setting, but an outside table beneath the old chestnut trees can hardly be beaten. Free Wi-fi, smoking in the bar.QB‑5, Waldstätterstrasse 9, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 44 50, www.helvetialuzern.ch. Open 08:00 - 00:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€. A­X­B PFISTERN ZUNFTHAUSRESTAURANT Centuries ago this was the meeting point for the guild of bakers, millers and sailors. Today this co-operative is where Swiss people come to eat Swiss food. They have all the classic Swiss dishes geschnetzeltes with rösti, chögelipastetli (called Fritschi-Paschtete here), cordon bleu and home-made fondue and raclette. Vegetarian options are available as are snack platters with meats and cheeses and typical Swiss pear bread to share. Its authentic, rustic interior makes for a cosy evening. On a summer’s day you may opt for one of the tables on the balcony or to sit on the riverside terrace whilst watching everyday Lucerne life happen around you.QB‑3, Kornmarkt 4, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 36 50, www.restaurant-pfistern.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€. A­B

A modern take on Swiss cuisine.

www.sternluzern.ch

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A good place for some al fresco dining: Stern.

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STERN LUZERN Stern is located on the peaceful but central Franziskanerplatz and specializes in modern Swiss cuisine, using products from local farms. It offers a menu per season and has a starter and dessert ‘shooting star’ concept, which is presented in taster jars. This provides the opportunity to try various dishes, such as Engelberg sausage salad with grapes, nuts and brie or for dessert pear sorbet or vermicelli (sweet chestnut in a spaghetti form). The atmosphere in Stern lingers somewhere between casual and smart and the service is both professional and friendly.QA‑4, Burgerstrasse 35, uHirzenhof, tel. (+41) 41 227 50 60, www.sternluzern.ch. Open 08:30 00:30, kitchen open 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 - 22:00. €€. A­B

TRADITIONAL SWISS FOOD Kornmarkt 4, CH-6004 Luzern T +41 (0)41 410 36 50 restaurant-pfistern.ch

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Restaurants SWISS CUISINE What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to! Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. One of the Lucerne specialities is Lozärner Chügelipastetli, basically a meat pie, it is a puff-pastry cup filled with little sausage-meat balls (chügeli) and sometimes innards (sweetbread) and mushrooms in a creamy sauce. Also on the list of Swiss traditionals is rösti, a cake of grated and fried potatoes similar to hash browns. Switzerland has an impressive range of breads to go with the famous cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides.

STADTKELLER The Stadtkeller is located in the heart of the old town and stages a Swiss folklore show from April through October. In the rustical surroundings you can enjoy surprisingly good Swiss cuisine (try their very own Stadtkeller beer!) to a show presenting various Swiss traditions such as yodelling, Swiss Alpine horn blowing and flag waving to name but a few. For added entertainment value the show has an interactive element where members of the audience are invited up on stage to try out the various customs. Few Swiss people practice these traditions these days, but the show is nonetheless good fun and relaxed.QB‑3, Sternenplatz 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 47 33, www.swissfolkloreshow.com. Lunch show starts 12:15 (not daily, check website), duration approx. 1h, dinner show starts daily 20:00 (music 19:30), approx. 1.5h, restaurant opens 18:30. Admission show and lunch 54 - 68Sfr / dinner 72 - 85Sfr. A

Cruise boat ambience at Wilhelm Tell restaurant.

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WILHELM TELL (SCHIFFRESTAURANT) The Wilhelm Tell, named after the mythical Swiss national hero, is a retired paddle steamer moored just past the Hotel Schweizerhof. Step on board for a drink and sandwich on deck, descend into the hold for a cosy dinner or adjourn to the captain’s salon in original Art Nouveau design for the four-course dinner. The kitchen produces Swiss standards like schnitzel, deep fried battered pike-perch and a seasonal menu including local beef, fish and a varied selection of vegetarian dishes. The food quality is good, but the atmosphere and the views are what you come for here.QC‑3, Schweizerhofquai, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 23 30, www.schiffrestaurant.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€. A­B

Sternenplatz 3 CH-6004 Luzern Telefon +41 41 410 47 33 Fax +41 41 410 61 33 info@stadtkeller.ch www.stadtkeller.ch

22 Lucerne In Your Pocket

WIRTSHAUS REUSSFAEHRE This relaxed riverside restaurant is almost 120 years old and oozes down-to-earth charm. Settle down on the terrace for a glass of wine in the afternoon or call in for some dinner in the evening. There is a small menu with Swiss specialities such as lamb’s lettuce salad, steak tartare, rösti or cordon bleu at fair prices and a good selection of wines by the glass or bottle. Don’t forget to drop 2 Sfr into the jukebox and pick out five favourite songs.QSentimattstrasse 14, uKreuzstutz, tel. (+41) 41 240 27 98, www.reussfaehre .ch. Open 10:00 - 00:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A­B lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Cafés Coffee culture in Switzerland is heavily influenced by Italy, and many of Lucerne’s bars and cafés are equipped with excellent Italian espresso machines. Cafés specialise on coffee, tea and sweets, but in many you’ll get meals, snacks and alcohol too - the boundary between bars and cafés is not a strict one. AURUM XLIV Aurum is the Latin word for gold, which explains the gold painted interior of this glamorous café, bar and takeaway in the Bruch Quarter. The décor is charming and the barkeeper is personable, so this is certainly not your average takeaway. It serves up homemade lemonade, ice tea and cordials as well as club sandwiches and delicious Italian coffee not to mention beer, wine and cocktails, all made with tender loving care. A takeaway espresso costs just 2 Sfr, while a quality cocktail-on-the-go can be had for 10 Sfr. That said, you can also have a seat on the comfortable red velvet upholstered chairs and enjoy the urban palatial living room atmosphere.QA‑4, Bruchstrasse 44, uHirzenhof, www.facebook.com/aurumxliv. Open 07:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 00:30, Tue, Wed 07:30 - 14:00, closed Mon, Sun. N­B­S CAFÉ DE VILLE (SCHWANEN) This classy French-influenced Art Déco café and restaurant situated on the first floor by Schwanenplatz on the lakeside, provides a variety of international newspapers for guests to enjoy. The high ceilinged rooms and parquet floors only

BREAKFAST Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, and is served with butter, jam, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads - rye bread, corn bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yoghurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Many Swiss don’t consider breakfast complete without one of the many takes on the müesli theme. Here then are some of our favourite breakfast places: LA VIE EN ROSE Different breakfast deals on offer, be it just a coffee and a gipfeli or a complete meal with müsli, cheese and meats. Daily from 06:30, Sun from 09:00.Qsee overleaf NEUBAD Several breakfast options almost all day (09:00 - 11:30, 13:30 - 16:00) and even more choices on the weekends (09:00 - 16:00) like poached eggs, müsli, local meats, cheese, fruits and more.QSee p. 26. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream... at Gelateria PD dell’Alpi, that is.

add to the charm. Take a look out the window and enjoy the picture postcard views of Lake Lucerne, Mount Rigi and the other Alpine foothills or on summer days sit out on the terrace. It offers business lunch menus during the week and a fabulous Sunday buffet brunch which includes sashimi. QC‑3, Schwanenplatz 4, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 11 77, www.cafedeville.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:30, Thu 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:00 - 18:30, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. B­ NEW GELATERIA DELL’ ALPI Homemade Italian ice cream and sorbet made with specially selected natural and organic ingredients is what you’ll get at  Gelateria dell’Alpi  (ice cream parlour of the Alps). It’s famous for its basil-favoured sorbet  and fior di latte (made with Mascarpone cheese) ice cream, but it also offers many unusual flavours such as beetroot-cinnamon, black sesame and elderflower, to name a few. Lucerne’s locals love it and so do we. Coffee and cold drinks such as smoothies and  even hot dogs are also available. The gelateria is located right next to the lion monument, but a second location can be found at Moosstrasse 15.QC‑1, Denkmalstrasse 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 79 748 13 88. Open 12:00 - 19:00. A LA VIE EN ROSE Bachmann is a local bakery chain, known for its pink and brown signage and its adventures into the realms of coffee, ice cream, pizza and panini - and now grand cafés. This venue is located in an elegant turn-of-the-century building in the new town named Pilatushof. For early risers it’s one of the first cafés to open in the morning with a large selection of newspapers and magazines. If you are looking for a relaxed atmosphere in which to work, there is free Wi-fi and several adapters and plugs available for laptops. It has the feel of a down-to-earth Lucerne bakery café with diverse offerings.QB‑4, Pilatusstrasse 17a, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 211 33 23, www.lavie-enrose.ch. Open 06:30 20:00, Thu 06:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 00:30, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A July – September 2018 23


Nightlife Lucerne might be small, but as a cultural centre it draws people from all over Central Switzerland. This means it pulls far more weight than mere numbers would suggest. Dozens of bars and clubs jostle for custom, meaning there’s something for almost every taste. For high-end nightlife head for the bars of the grand hotels, for the flipside dive into the vibrant student and alternative scene. You’ll also find pubs and casual bars, as well as live music venues and large mainstream clubs. Check out our listings, and take your pick. As some bars don’t take credit cards, it’s a good idea to have cash handy!

Louis is a grand hotel bar with live jazz concerts.

PD

CASUAL BARS NEW FRANKY Franky is your typical district bar where locals hang out in the evening like you’ve no doubt seen in movies and TV shows. It has wooden furniture, classic barstools and bottles towering behind the bar. A diverse offering of cocktails and cool bartenders give you that authentic bar feeling and Franky  is also a great place for whisky lovers. On the weekend it often hosts live music or DJs who play different  sounds  like 1990s dance, reggae and dancehall.  Franky  is quite small, but outside seating is available and it’s conveniently located near Lucerne’s main station.QC‑4, Frankenstrasse 6, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 10 73, www.frankyluzern.ch. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Thu, Fri 17:00 - 02:30, Sat 17:00 - 04:00, closed Sun. X A

Promocode: 057

www.grandcasinoluzern.ch Valid until 31st December 2018, daily from 4 pm. Conditions: not convertible into cash money, only one voucher per person, redeemable only at the reception of the Grand Casino Luzern, minimum age 18 years, ID check (passport, European ID, driving license). Open daily from 9 am until 4 am.

24 Lucerne In Your Pocket

SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted

N No credit cards

E Concerts

X Smoker lounge

K Restaurant

A‑1 Map coordinates

u Nearest (trolley)bus stop

NEW NEFES SHISHA LOUNGE At Nefes you can enjoy a shisha  (hookah) with a drink or a coffee. If tobacco  rituals are new to you, a shisha, also known as a hookah, is a Middle Eastern water pipe for vaporizing and smoking flavoured tobacco. Quite a selection of flavours is on offer including lemon, mint, blueberry and even cucumber, to name a few. In addition to the ground floor, decked out in easy chairs and sofas, Nefes  also has a gallery with additional seating. You can expect a classically decorated interior with dark hues and a stone wall.QB‑5, Pilatusstrasse 46, uPilatusplatz, tel. (+41) 76 549 01 52, www.facebook.com/nefes.shisha. Open 08:00 - 00:30, Fri 08:00 - 01:30, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:30. XN

CLASSY BARS LOUIS BAR (ART DÉCO HOTEL MONTANA) The Louis is very much the grand hotel bar, with chandliers, stucco-decorated ceilings, lots of ornate wood panelling, a grand piano and a huge selection of over 130 whiskeys. But the namesake trumpeter is no empty reference, as there is live music, very often a piano player or some jazz. The adjacent Hemingway lounge is for smokers, as it has a selection of cigars and over 60 exquisite rums.QE‑2, Adligenswilerstrasse 22, uCasino-Palace, tel. (+41) 41 419 00 00, www.hotel-montana.ch/louis-bar. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. X­E

CASINO GRAND CASINO LUZERN 250 slot machines with sky high jackpots and the table games American roulette, black jack, punto banco and poker await you in the city’s very own casino. For your physical well-being there are bars in the gambling area as well as the restaurant Olivo within the premises. The casino has a smokers’ section. To get access you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed (jeans are fine, but no sportswear) and carry a valid passport, European ID card or European driving licence.QD‑2, Haldenstrasse 6, uHaldensteig, tel. (+41) 41 418 56 56, www.grandcasinoluzern.ch. Open 09:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 05:00, table games start 16:00, Sat & Sun 14:00. Admission after 16:00: 10Sfr. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife NACHBAR A little bit chic, a little bit casual, this is a great place if you are looking for a slightly older crowd (30+). The long room has a tasteful wooden interior, dimmed lighting at night and is connected to the Weisses Schloss restaurant next door. It serves Eichhof beer on tap and has a good selection of wine and cocktails. There are occasional DJ sets on the weekend, though as background music - this is more of a bar for drinking and talking.QB‑5, Moosstrasse 7, uMoosegg, tel. (+41) 41 227 00 00, www.weissesschloss.ch/Nachbar. Open 10:00 - 00:30, Mon, Tue 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 16:00 - 00:30, Closed Sun.

OPEN-AIR BARS

DANCE BARS

DAS SCHWARZE SCHAF / DAS WEISSE SCHAF At ground level you will find Das Weisse Schaf bar, which translates as white sheep and opens earlier for predancing drinks and cocktails. Downstairs the black sheep, Das Schwarze Schaf dancing bar, plays commercial pop and club hits. Incidentally, the bars are not linked to the conservative Swiss People’s Party notorious black and white sheep poster campaign, referring to non-Swiss and Swiss citizens.QC‑4, Frankenstrasse 2, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 43 35, www.dasschwarzeschaf.ch. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00, Das Weisse Schaf open 17:00 - 00:30, Fri & Sat 16:00 - 02:30. Closed Sun. A

BUVETTE INSELI This relaxed outdoor summer bar is just five minutes’ walk from the main train station on the other side of the KKL. A simple caravan located lakeside in the Inseli park serves drinks and is surrounded by tables, chairs and deckchairs. If you a buy a drink, it is fine to bring your own picnic along. They offer a lakeside BBQ on Sundays from 16:00 and occasional open-air tango milongas in the evening.QD‑4, Inseli Park, uBahnhof. Open 11:30 - 24:00 (April until Sep 2018, weather permitting).

A chatty place: Nachbar.

PD

ALTERNATIVE BARS HAIFISH BAR It may have switched locations over the years, but now as then it’s usually a relaxed place to hang out without pretension. You can perch yourself at the bar and have a chat with locals or the bar staff or just have a seat at a table if you’re not in an interactive mood. The crowd is slightly alternative and there are plenty of laid-back regulars, but bear in mind that the place can get smokey later on in the evening. It also has a vibrant events programme, be it live music, DJs, art exhibitions or table football competitions.QB‑5, Obergrundstrasse 17, uPilatusplatz, www.facebook .com/haifishbar. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Thu, Fri 17:00 02:30, Sat 19:00 - 02:30, closed Mon, Sun. N­X­E­ facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Nordpol

NEW DOCK 14 Dock 14 is a summer bar located right in front of the fountain at the KKL. The only catch is that it doesn’t open when the weather is bad, as it’s fully open-air. It serves a  selection of coffees, drinks, snacks, including tacos and hot hogs, and sweets, but when in doubt try the chilli citrus vodka drink, that’s both refreshing and fiery at once. With its eclectic collection of old trunks, pallets, seats and white tables, Dock 14 is a nostalgic look at decades, if not centuries, past. Inspiration was apparently gained from the age of steam boats. QC‑4, Europaplatz, uLucerne Main Station, www.kklluzern.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A NORDPOL As part of a regeneration project in the north of Lucerne, a former football field by the riverside has undergone a major transformation. These days it offers a beach, adventure playground, sports field, a (bring your own) BBQ area and the Nordpol (North Pole) summer café bar. A seating area is available by the mobile bar, which serves up vegetarian lunches and sandwiches, not to mention snacks later in the evening, all using locallygrown produce. It’s an ecologically sound project, where part of the profit is also donated to a local water project, but bear in mind that its opening hours are weather dependent.QReusszopfweg, uReussbühl Schiff, www.nordpol.lu. April - Oct 10:00 - 24:00. July – September 2018 25


Nightlife QUEER LUCERNE The atmosphere in Lucerne is refreshingly open, relaxed and queer-friendly for such a small city. In 2005 local citizens voted in favour of registered partnerships for same sex-couples and in the weeks following the referendum the city hosted the national Pride festival. It is common to see same-sex couples holding hands and showing affection in public. Each November the weeklong Pink Panorama film festival, now in its 16th year, shows LGBTQI films from around the globe (November 8 - 11, 2018). Local collective Queer Office (queeroffice.ch) host bi-annual festivals addressing so called taboo themes affecting the community and seek to create a safe space and platform for cross-generational and -cultural exchange. They also organise a weekly gathering Queerbad every Tuesday at Neubad bar. There are few queer bars as such in Lucerne, but regular parties taking place at various locations around the city.

NEUBAD A reflection of contemporary alternative culture in Lucerne, Neubad is a bar, bistro, performance space, urban garden and a coworking space for artists and creative industries. It is housed in the former city swimming baths, made available by the city council for at least until 2020. In the evening it is a bar with events such as burger and piano night (a free beer if you get up to play the piano), round the table ping pong and swimming pool cinema. It offers affordable and creative menus on weekday lunchtimes, brunch Tue - Sun till 16:00 and a big flea market in the pool once a month. The newest addition is Klub in the basement, which has recently been refurbished and offers up new possibilities for gigs and dancing.QBireggstrasse 36, uSteghof, tel. (+41) 41 360 60 66, www.neubad.org. Open 09:00 00:30, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. N­E­K

FRIGAY NIGHT (AT EL CARTEL) On the third Friday of every month, this is a popular commercial monthly gay night. House, chart, r’n’b and mashup music keep the dancefloor full. Drinks are fairly expensive.QD‑2, El Cartel, Haldenstrasse 21, uLuzernerhof, www.frigaynight.ch. Every third friday of the month, 23:00 - 05:00. Admission 15 Sfr.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES Football, rock music and loads of beer - welcome to The Bruch PD Brothers!

PUBS & TAVERNS

Schüür

KONZERTHAUS SCHÜÜR Folk, rock, metal - lots of big names play here. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min) QC‑6, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 368 10 30, www.schuur.ch. TREIBHAUS Treibhaus is a cultural centre featuring lots of live acts. Outdoor bar and events mid-July - midAugust.QF‑6, Spelteriniweg 4, uWeinbergli, www.treibhausluzern.ch Open 11:00 - 14:00, Thu 11:00 - 00:30, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, closed Mon, Sun. 26 Lucerne In Your Pocket

RATHAUS BRAUEREI The Rathaus is in the cellars of the town-hall whose redroofed tower is on Kornmarkt square just around the corner. The generous halls have impressive vaults in massive stone, which fits the beer-drinking atmosphere well. What will catch your eye immediately are the two huge copper vats, where they brew their own beer. Two in-house beers are always on offer, a non-filtered, light pils-style beer called Rathaus Naturtrüb and a seasonal one. The seasonal specials include Christmas beer, as well as others. On the menu there are Bavarian style pretzels, sausages, half a roatsed chicken and some other solid fare - even something for vegetarian beer lovers.QB‑4, Unter der Egg 2, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 52 57, www.rathausbrauerei.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Tue, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. A­K

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Nightlife THE BRUCH BROTHERS Here is the Lucerne version of a sports (especially football) pub. A little cosier than a typical sports bar, though dark with limited daylight, they show football matches from the Champions League, English Premier League, German Bundesliga, Italian Serie A and the Primera Division from Spain and of course the Swiss Superleague featuring the mighty FC Luzern. After the final whistle has blown, the music starts and the place transforms into a rock bar, with DJs, concerts, open-mic nights and occasionally karaoke.QA‑3, Baselstrasse 7, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 53 00, www.bruch-brothers.ch. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Thu 17:00 - 02:30, Fri 17:00 - 03:30, Sat 14:00 - 03:30, Sun 14:00 - 00:30, closed Mon (Sun open only when local football team FCL has a match). N

CLUBS KLUB KEGELBAHN Klub Kegelbahn is part of the new party mile between Kasernenplatz along Baselstrasse to Kreuzstutz. The former bowling hall is now a meeting place for music lovers. The club owner likes good music, mostly electronic sounds like techno, house and its variations - but not only.QA‑3, Baselstrasse 24, uGütsch, www.klubkegelbahn.ch. Open Fri & Sat 24:00 - late, sometimes Thu 21:00 - late.

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT Swiss laws are quite liberal in regard to the sex business: prostitution is legal, both on the streets and in brothels and similar establishments. Both are regulated however, and street prostitution in particular is only legal in very few areas. The time of strip cubs where half-naked ladies dance on a pole until they are entirely naked is apparently over, as the last strip club in Lucerne closed in winter 2016. What still exists are so-called contact bars where you can meet a prostitute and accompany her to a room nearby, whereas in brothels, sex and sauna clubs the offer is even more direct. Many of these establishments are concentrated in the area around Baselstrasse and Bernstrasse. This somewhat shabby corner of town does not have the best reputation but it can’t be called dangerous. You can also find contact bars

ROADHOUSE The roadhouse is a big club right in the centre of town, just across from the railway station, with three floors and DJs every night of the week. With their extremely long opening hours, this is a pit stop for all those who don’t want to go home yet - or who want to start early. You can count on the weekly programme here, with beer pong on Tuesdays or after-shopping apero on Saturdays, apart from one-off seasonal events.QC‑4, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 220 27 27, www.roadhouse.ch. Open 07:00 - 04:00, Fri 07:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 08:00, Sun 09:00 04:00. A ROK Located a couple of minutes’ walk from the main train station Rok in the basement of Hotel Flora is both a club and an after-hours party. It plays host to label nights, club concerts and established DJs and the relaxed atmosphere and affordable drinks attract a young mixed crowd. If you are still wide-awake at 04:00 then you can keep on dancing here through until 09:00 on weekends. After 04:00 it’s usually house and techno that keeps revellers awake.QB‑4, Seidenhofstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 41 90, www.rokklub.ch. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 09:00. E

in the old town and Neustadt. As in other places, many prostitutes work because they have few other income options or, even worse, because they are forced to. Street prostitutes are particularly likely to be victims of human trafficking. SACRED TANTRA Wellness massages with an erotic touch and body to body tantric rituals. Call for an appointment.Qtel. (+41) 76 573 91 19, www.sacred-tantra.ch. Open 09:00 21:00, Closed Sun. BRÜGGLI Centrally located contact bar.QA‑4, Pfistergasse 2, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 18 57, www.nightlife-lucerne.ch. Open 10:00 - 02:30, Sun 16:00 - 00:30.

Mon - Sat 09:00 - 22:00 www.sacred-tantra.ch (+41) 76 573 91 19

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July – September 2018 27


Sightseeing Lucerne holds a whole hand of trump cards, the truly stunning natural setting, the intact historical old town, an impressive number of absorbing museums and the aura of nearly two hundred years as a world-renowned destination. You’ll find all the classics and our favourites in the listings. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s fee, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Note that museums are usually closed on Mondays.

LAKE LUCERNE

MAIN SIGHTS

Lake Lucerne Cruises

Lake Lucerne is one of the things that make Lucerne so exceptional. A walk along the shores is part of life in Lucerne, and the promenade along Schweizerhofquai and Nationalquai with the long double row of chestnut trees is the classical choice. But you can also go south from the KKL, towards the large lakeside park and bathing spot Ufschötti (15 min walk) or even further to the Richard Wagner Museum. The lake also gives you access to a vast area filled to the brim with Alpine beauties. On a nice sunny day nothing can beat a cruise on the lake, whether you stay close to Lucerne or steam south towards the Alps. Due to the labyrinthine shape of the lake, new breathtaking vistas open up again and again. The long cruise down to Flüelen e.g. will take you to the Rütli and past the Tellsplatte, both involved in Switzerland’s founding myths. In German the lake is called Vierwaldstättersee, literally the lake of the four cantons, which refers to Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden and Lucerne. Barring Lucerne, these cantons are considered to be the birthplace of Switzerland and the William Tell saga plays in these mountain areas (see ‘Meet William Tell’ p. 31). LAKE LUCERNE CRUISES The Lake Lucerne navigation company operates a fleet of 19 passenger ships on the lake, from the paddle steamer Uri launched in 1901 to the sleek high-tech cruiser Diamant which dates from 2017. You can catch a ship for the 10-minute hop across to the Transport Museum, or spend up to 5.5h on a roundtrip cruise to Flüelen and back. Boats leave regularly from the piers around the KKL or from the piers on Schweizerhofquai. Snacks, drinks and often full meals are available from the bar on almost all connections.QC‑4, Bahnhofquai, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 367 67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch. Opening hours of the ticket office across from the railway station are roughly 08:30 - 17:00, sometimes closed at lunchtime. Adult fares, one-way, second-class are between 6Sfr and 46Sfr, depending on distance. Daypass 72/36Sfr. 28 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Lucerne’s main sights are heavily marketed and known around the world - but still worth the visit. They range from the mediaeval bridges and fortifications, the 19th-century attractions around the Lion Monument to the 21st-century landmark of the KKL. You’ll find museums in our museum section. JESUITENKIRCHE Beautifully located right on the River Reuss, the Jesuitenkirche or Jesuit Church of St. Francis Xavier is one of the most magnificent Baroque churches in Switzerland. While it is very pleasing from outside along the river promenade, the rich, unchanged interior in pink and white is what really takes your breath away. Completed in 1677, the two towers were added in 1893.QB‑4, Bahnhofstrasse 11a, uFranziskanerplatz, www.jesuitenkirche-luzern.ch. Open 06:30 - 18:30, Mon, Thu 09:30 - 18:30.

Chapel bridge, Lake Lucerne and Mount Pilatus: Lucerne’s tourist iStock.com/photogearch trinity.

KAPELLBRÜCKE & WASSERTURM (CHAPEL BRIDGE) Lucerne’s most famous landmark is certainly the Chapel Bridge, which stretches across the entrance to the River Reuss (over nearly 203 metres) in a peculiar diagonal direction. Built in 1365 as part of Lucerne’s fortifications, it is the oldest covered wooden bridge still standing in Europe. Part of its fame is due to the originally more than 150 triangular paintings positioned inside the bridge in the gabels. The paintings date from the 17th century and show scenes from Lucerne’s and Switzerland’s history, and they lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing MUSEGGMAUER (MUSEGG WALL) The Musegg wall with its nine towers is part of the ramparts built in the 14th century to protect the town of Lucerne - as is the Chapel Bridge. The wall is astoundingly well preserved. The wall and four towers are open to the public in summer.QA‑3 to C‑2, uBrüggligasse, www.museggmauer.ch. Accessible 08:00 - 19:00, April to October. Admission free.

MUSEUMS A tower of the Musegg fortification wall. Gabriel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus

can be seen as a mass media of the time, used to advocate allegiance to Catholicism during the Counter-Reformation. In 1993 a fire destroyed a large part of the bridge (towards the centre) including 78 of the paintings. When you walk across the bridge you will see burned, blackened paintings on either end which mark the point where the restored parts begin. The Chapel Bridge is really only complete with the octagonal Wasserturm, literally the ‘water tower’, which stands in the water next to it. Built before the bridge (i.e. before 1365), the Wasserturm was part of Lucerne’s military fortifications and was also used as a dungeon. It is seldom accessible to the public.QB‑4, uBahnhof. KKL LUCERNE (KULTUR- UND KONGRESSZENTRUM LUZERN) The striking KKL with its huge overhanging roof and its position right on the lake rivals even the Chapel Bridge as Lucerne’s major landmark. The concert and conference centre was completed in the year 2000, built to plans of Parisian architect Jean Nouvel. Its centrepiece is the concert hall with nearly 2000 seats which is used mostly for classical concerts. It has extraordinary acoustics thanks to acoustics engineer Russell Johnson. The KKL also houses other event halls, conference facilities and the Kunstmuseum art museum. It also has several culinary options, e.g. the topend restaurant Red.QC‑4, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 79 50, www.kkl-luzern.ch. On Saturdays often guided tours at 11:00, reservations required, via website or tel. (+41) 41 226 79 50, 15/9Sfr. LÖWENDENKMAL (LION MONUMENT) While it is famous today, the Lion Monument enjoyed great fame in the 19th century and harks back to a very different era, when nation states were just emerging in Europe. The stone sculpture dates from 1821 and was created by Lukas Ahorn to a design by Berthel Thowaldsen. It shows a dying lion, in an allegory for over eight hundred Swiss mercenaries who died in service in 1792. They belonged to the Swiss regiment which served French king Louis XVI, and were defending the Tuileries in Paris where the French royal family were living during the French revolution against revolutionaries. The royal family had long since fled, so the mercenaries were defending an empty palace.QC‑1, Denkmalstrasse 4, uLöwenplatz. Admission free. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

GLETSCHERGARTEN (GLACIER GARDEN) Gletschergarten means glacier garden, and this Lucerne institution consists of three elements: a geological site formed by a glacier, a museum next door and a mirror maze dating from 1896. This quaint jumble of attractions is very 19th century, making this museum a museum piece in itself. The geological site is a set of deep funnels and channels worn into the bedrock by the glacier that once covered this area. The museum is housed in a building with Baroque, Renaissance and Biedermeier rooms. The larger part of the exhibition consists of relief models of Switzerland and exhibits about glaciers, climate change and avalanches. The mirror maze finally is pure and simple 19th century fair-ground fun. But it still works!QC‑1, Denkmalstrasse 4, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 43 40, www.gletschergarten.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 15/8Sfr.

Explore Lake Lucerne by boat D A I LY D E PA R T U R E S F R O M L U C E R N E

Lake Lucerne Navigation Company (SGV) www.Iakelucerne.ch P +41 41 367 67 67 | www.lakelucerne.ch

July – September 2018 29


Sightseeing BOURBAKI PANORAMA The Bourbaki Panorama is basically one huge painting. The circular painting which is 114 metres around and 10 metres high was painted in 1881 by Edouard Castres. It depicts a major military event of 1871 - 87,000 defeated French soldiers crossed the border into Switzerland, fleeing the Prussians. In Switzerland the soldiers were disarmed and looked after by the government and the public, giving rise to a humanitarian tradition. Paintings like this one were hugely popular at the time, before the advent of cinema! In the original panorama building from 1889 you can view this 19th-century attraction, as well as learn more about the event behind it thanks to the museum’s very state-of-the-art exhibition and film.QC‑2, Löwenplatz 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 412 30 30, www.bourbakipanorama.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 12/7Sfr, 1 adult and kids 24Sfr, 2 adults and kids 35Sfr. FORUM SCHWEIZER GESCHICHTE SCHWYZ (FORUM OF SWISS HISTORY) Forum Schwyz is a historical museum housed in a former granary in the little town of Schwyz whose historical centre is worth a visit in itself. The museum’s main exhibition focuses on the early history of the Swiss confederation, using very up-to-date exhibition techniques. Forum Schwyz also hosts temporary exhibitions on historical and cultural topics (see p. 11). You can get to Schwyz by train in under an hour, then take a bus to Schwyz, Post from where it’s a few minutes’ walk. If you want to make a day of it, consider going by ship: it’s nearly 2h to Brunnen and from there 5 min by train to Schwyz. Audio guides in English, French and Italian.QZeughausstrasse 5, Schwyz, tel. (+41) 58 466 80 11, www.forumschwyz.ch. Open 10:00 17:00. Closed Mon. 10/8Sfr, children up to 16 free.

MUSEUMS FOR LESS LUCERNE MUSEUM CARD / LION PASS The Lucerne Museum Card is a great deal, giving you free access to 8 museums in Lucerne on two consecutive days for just 36Sfr. You’re already saving money if you just go to three museums, and if one is the transport museum (30Sfr), you’re almost saving from the start. Another option ist the Lion Pass (22/12Sfr), a combined ticket to the Gletschergarten and Bourbaki Panorama, saving you 5Sfr. For the classic one-day 19th-century tour - Lion Monument (free), Gletschergarten, Alpineum and Bourbaki Panorama - the Lion Pass is your best option (you will have to pay an additional 5Sfr for the Alpineum).QC‑4, Tourist Information, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, www.lucerne.com. Museum Card: 36Sfr. Available at the tourist office at the main train station and at all participating museums. No reduction for children, so not necessary worthwhile for kids. Lion Pass: 22/12Sfr, available at Gletschergarten and Bourbaki Panorama. 30 Lucerne In Your Pocket

MARKETS REUSSSTEG FLEAMARKET The most centrally located fleamarket takes place every Saturday from May to October along the river Reuss between Spreuerbrücke and Reussbrücke. The market is particularly popular for its picturesque location and locals selling a colourful mix of rarities, records, clothes and other bits and bobs, it’s a great place to pick up a bargain.QA‑4, Untere Burgerstrasse / Reusssteg, uKasernenplatz. Every Sat from May - Oct, 07:00 - 16:00.

A 3D detail of the 114m-long Bourbaki panorama painting.

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SAMMLUNG ROSENGART (ROSENGART COLLECTION) This art collection concentrates on two very different figureheads of classical modernism: exuberant Pablo Picasso (1881 - 1973) and quiet, intense Paul Klee (1879 1940), the latter of Swiss origins. The basement is entirely dedicated to Klee’s mostly small-scale, delicate works, while the ground floor houses a collection of Picassos from all periods of his work. The final, upper floor displays other modernist artists such as Chagall or Braque as well as some Picasso prints including some of Angela Rosengart. She is the founder of the museum and, like her father, she had a long and intense friendship with Picasso. Her father Siegfried Rosengart was an art dealer who confessed that it pained him to sell pieces he loved, and Angela who worked with him from 1957 on and still lives in Lucerne today had the same failing - luckily. A gem among Lucerne’s museums. Notes on the works are available in German, English and French.QC‑4, Pilatusstrasse 10, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 220 16 60, www.rosengart.ch. Open 10:00 18:00. Admission 18/10Sfr. VERKEHRSHAUS (MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT) The Swiss Museum of Transport is Switzerland’s most popular museum. It tells the story of the development of transport and mobility by road, rail and water as well as in the air and outer space - and how it effects everyday life. Look at more than 3,000 objects like planes, steam engines and cars in the huge halls. Or be a TV presenter for a couple of minutes in the lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing communication section and take home a recording of your performance. This museum is very much hands-on and in every section there are special activities for children - a good choice for the family not just on a rainy day!QLidostrasse 5, uVerkehrshaus/Lido, tel. (+41) 41 370 44 44, www.verkehrshaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 32/12Sfr, the planetarium and the chocolate adventure cost extra (each 16/7Sfr), day passes valid for all three attractions cost 56/22/11Sfr.

MEET WILLIAM TELL

SIGHTSEEING TOURS GUIDED CITY WALK On this walking tour, a guide takes you round all of Lucerne’s major sights giving you historical and anecdotal background. You’ll see places like the Chapel Bridge as well as some more hidden corners. Reservations are not needed, just turn up at the tourist information before 09:45. In English and German.QC‑4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 227 17 17, www.luzern.com. Daily 09:45, duration approx. 2h. 18/5Sfr. GUIDED TITLIS TOUR (BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS) A bus takes you to Engelberg from where a cable car connection - with a revolving cable car on the last section - gets you up to Mount Titlis, towering more than 3000m asl in the eternal snow. The view of the Swiss Alps up here is breathtaking! You can visit the ice grotto, cross the ‘cliff walk’ suspension bridge or visit the glacier park where you can sledge all year round (weather permitting). The tour is with a multi-lingual guide and starts daily 12:30. Meeting point is inside the Starbucks Coffee at Pilatusstrasse 1, just opposite the train station (located in the same buildling as hotel Monopol). Book in advance by phone or on the website.QC‑4, Starbucks Coffee, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50, www.switzerlandtours.ch. 132/66Sfr. NIGHTWATCHMAN WALK When darkness begins to fall in the city you can travel back in time to medieval Lucerne on this Englishlanguage Nightwatchman tour. The walk begins with a fire horn call and nightwatchman Ralph, who dresses the part, then sets the scene. Along the tour he describes the torture chamber, the dungeon and the secret room inside the famous water tower, which was built before the adjoining Chapel Bridge. You’ll be introduced to medieval law and order, prosecution and interrogation methods, corporal punishment and the death penalties of the time. Best of all, you can track the route on a 400-yearold copper engraved map of the city.QC‑3, Rathausquai, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 79 306 82 87, www. nightwatchman.ch. Meeting point: Rathausquai / Rosengartenplatz next to the Chapel Bridge. English Tour every Tue (May to October), tours in German usually Sat. Times change due to daylight hours. Book your tour by email (ralf@citytrip.ch), phone or website. Admission 25Sfr, teenagers 15Sfr. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Angel Sanchez

His name is Tell. William Tell. He is, of course, the Swiss national hero with the crossbow who, as legend has it, defied the rule of the Habsburgs way back in the 13th century and thus laid the foundations for Swiss national independence. His fight against tyranny took place around Lake Lucerne – in Küssnacht, in Flüelen and Altdorf at the far southern end of the lake. The most famous version of the Tell story was written by German playwright Friedrich Schiller in 1804. It goes something like this: the Habsburg rulers are savagely oppressing the farmers and shepherds of the Lake Lucerne region. So some locals secretly meet on a lonely meadow called the Rütli, swear allegiance to each other and decide to get rid of the rulers. The next day, Tell walks into Altdorf with his son, and refuses to pay respect to the Habsburg bailiff Gessler. Tell is stopped by Gessler’s men, but Gessler offers to pardon him if he shoots an apple from his own son’s head with his crossbow. Tell pulls two arrows, shoots - and hits the apple. Gessler asks what the second arrow was for, and Tell answers ‘To shoot you with, if I were to hit my son’. Tell is immediately arrested, but he manages to escape. Tell later finds Gessler near Küssnacht and shoots and kills him. Habsburg rule crumbles, this small Alpine region becomes sort of independent, Tell is celebrated as a hero and lives in Bürglen happily ever after. Today we know that Wilhelm Tell, as he is known in German, is a legendary figure. There is no historical evidence whatsoever of him. But as a figure he was already popular in the 15th century and was long considered a real person. Even today you may find the occasional old believer... Every nation needs its myths. Tell and the crossbow became symbols for everything Swiss and the story, at least, is alive and well! Follow the Swiss national hero’s footsteps: Rütli Birthplace of the nation, a mountain meadow on Lake Lucerne, liked for excursions.Qwww.gg-ssup.ch Tell Museum a small museum about the William Tell legend in Bürglen, where he is said to have lived. Qwww.tellmuseum.ch The Swiss Path is a hiking trail consisting of easy walks around the southern end of Lake Lucerne, leading past all the scenes of the Tell adventure.Qwww.weg-der-schweiz.ch July – September 2018 31


Old-town stroll Bridge (as well as on two other bridges). The depictions of the life of saints Leodegar and Mauritius could be read like comics by the mostly illiterate population, and the more than 200 scenes must have made a huge impact in this world with so few images. On the other shore of the Reuss our stroll goes right, along the river past Lucerne’s theatre built in 1839. If you look across the river you’ll get a good view of the Rathaus, the town-hall, on the other side. A few steps further along is the Jesuit church St. Franz Xaver (p. 28), a magnificent example of Swiss Baroque architecture. R o s enb

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Mountains & Nature There is a whole region around Lucerne waiting to be explored! Whether it’s mountain peaks or other natural wonders that make your heart beat faster - you’ll find it all and more on the following pages. Some destinations can be seen in half a day, but for most you’ll need a full day.

MOUNTAIN PEAKS You’ ll enjoy many magnificient vistas of the mountain giants surrounding the city on Lucerne’s streets and squares. But why just admire them from afar? Many peaks are easily accessible and the views up there are something else! If you’d like to visit more than one mountain peak, consider buying a Tell Pass (see p 34). BRIENZER ROTHORN BY STEAM TRAIN Brienzer Rothorn (2351m above sea level) offers breathtaking views of the Alps and features one of the more remarkable ways to go up or down a mountain - a steam-driven rack and pinion train that is still much as it was in 1891, when the railroad was built. Brienzer Rothorn is actually accessible from two sides, so you can easily make it a roundtrip from Lucerne. Just go up from Sörenberg by cable car and use the steam train for the descent to Brienz. In the steam train you’ll sit in open carriages and be able to take in breathtaking views of the Brienz and Thun lakes and the Bernese Alps on the slow ride down.Qtel. (+41) 33 952 22 22, www.brienz-rothorn-bahn.ch. Steam train runs until October 21, 2018. It departs up to 8 times between 08:36 and 16:36. Return tickets steam train 92/46Sfr. Up to two kids per adult travel for free, otherwise 10Sfr. MOUNT RIGI Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for spectacular views of the Alps and its easy access. The majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and Lake Lauerz. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau is Europe’s first mountain railway. Don’t forget to bring a jacket as it can be chilly at 1,800m above sea level. At the top there are several restaurants, around 120km of hiking trails and covered picnic and barbecue spots. Hikers have the option of walking down just part of the way, as the train has several stops where you can jump back on. You can also combine it with the aerial cable car from Rigi Kaltbad to Weggis, for instance on a round trip by boat from

Mount Rigi in the delicate light of dusk.

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Lucerne to Vitznau, with return from Weggis. The train and bus connection to Vitznau takes about 1 hour, by ship it’s just as fast.QFrom Vitznau, Weggis or Arth-Goldau, tel. (+41) 41 399 87 87, www.rigi.ch. From Vitznau roughly 09:00 - 22:00; from Weggis daily 08:00 - 19:00; from Arth-Goldau 08:00 - 18:00. Check website for exact timetables. Return ticket 72/36Sfr. In July & August kids travel for free.

MOUNTAIN TOURS BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS Day trips organised by tour operators are an easy way to explore Switzerland and its gorgeous mountains. Just snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours, for example, offers daily trips to Pilatus, Rigi and Titlis. And you can join them for an exciting day out in the Bernese Oberland including a cogwheel train ride up to Jungfraujoch, where an elevated alpine wonderland of ice, snow and rock awaits you. They also have a tour to Northern Switzerland, including stops in Zurich and the Rhine Falls, as well as many other tours (see website). The meeting point for their tours is inside the Starbucks coffee shop at Hotel Monopol, across the street from the main train station.Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50.

VIEW TO A THRILL Explore Mt. Rigi now!

OPEN SKY Fully included in the Swiss Travel Pass

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July – September 2018 33


Mountains & Nature TELL PASS

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If you plan on travelling at least a few days in the Lake Lucerne region, it might be worthwhile picking up a Tell-Pass. One ticket allows you to travel on all trains, buses, boats and aerial cable ways including trips, for example, to Pilatus, Rigi and Mount Titlis. You can choose between 2, 3, 4, 5 and 10 days of unrestricted travel. It’s great value: if you were to go up Mount Pilatus on one day and Mount Titlis on the next, the cable car passes alone would cost 164 Sfr and with the 2-day TellPass for 180Sfr trains and buses are also included. Apart from transportation there are up to 20% discounts for activities like the Verkehrshaus. Buy your pass online or at the train station.Qwww.tellpass.ch. 2 days 180Sfr, 3 days 210Sfr, 4 days 230Sfr, 5 days 240Sfr, 10 days 300Sfr. Accompanied children 30Sfr for 10 days.

One ticket and all of Central Switzerland is yours!

Travel free on

or

10

days

34 Lucerne In Your Pocket

www.tell-pass.ch

BÜRGENSTOCK - LAKE LOOKOUT The Bürgenstock, including the all-new Bürgenstock Resort, is an easy place to reach, and although it only reaches a height of 874m above sea level, its 360° views are absolutely spectacular. The northern face, which rises out of the lake, is very steep while the opposite side consists of grassy slopes that drop gently down to Stansstad and Ennetbürgen, the perfect place for a relaxing hike. A cliff walk, several restaurants and hotels are located up here and the new resort features bars, tennis courts, a spa and even an ice skating rink in winter. Another highlight is the Hammetschwand lift on the rocky northern cliff, the tallest outdoor elevator in Europe. The lift climbs up over 150m almost to the peak at 1,132m above sea level (runs mid-May - midOctober 09:30 - 11:30, 12:00 - 17:30 (Sun 18:00). To get to Bürgenstock take the shuttle boat to KehrsitenBürgenstock and from there the spectacular funicular will bring you straight to the top (45 minutes all told). QBürgenstock, Obbürgen, www.buergenstock.ch. return ticket from Lucerne incl. ship and funicular 84/42Sfr, funicular only 50/25Sfr. KLEWENALP A great getaway for families, Klewenalp is a recreation area about 1600m above sea level with stunning views of Lake Lucerne and the Alps. You can take a picturesque aerial cable car here from the town of Beckenried. On the mountain you’ll find hiking paths, barbecue areas, playgrounds for children, a herb garden, a compound with furry marmots and a couple of restaurants as well as accommodation. You can also easily hike over to Stockhütte where another cable car will bring you down to the valley floor (hike takes 90 minutes, accessible with strollers), but there are also more alpine possibilities including a hike up to Brisen (2400m). From Stockhütte it’s also possible to ride down the mountain on a bikeboard. It takes a little over one hour to get up there from Lucerne (take a train to Stans, then a bus to Beckenried). For an interesting alternative you can even travel to Beckenried by ship.QKlewenalp, tel. (+41) 41 624 66 00, www.klewenalp.ch. Return ticket 39/19.50Sfr. LUNGERN-TURREN The all-new orange cabins of this cable car bring you from Lungern up to Turren where you’re afforded quite a view of the Bernese Alps including the famous Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau peeks. Turren is perfect for a peaceful day in a fascinating mountain landscape. Up here you can do some hiking, walking and mountain biking or bring some sausages with you and have a barbecue at one of the fireplaces. Naturally, a restaurant is also available. From Lucerne it’s a 45-minute train ride to Lungern and then it’s a 20-minute walk to the cable car.QWichelstrasse 2, Lungern, tel. (+41) 41 679 01 11, www.turren.ch. Check website for the cable car schedule. Return tickets 33/16.50Sfr. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Mountains & Nature

MORE THAN A VIEW. SINCE 1873. Four hotels, ranging from 3* to 5* superior level, 12 restaurants, bars & lounges, and the 10‘000 m2 Bürgenstock Alpine Spa are waiting for your visit high above Lake Lucerne. The varied offer on the Bürgenberg also includes 70 km of hiking trails, Europe's highest outdoor elevator, 3 Tennis courts and a 9-hole golf course. Book your Bürgenstock Resort experience incl. arrival by shuttle boat and Bürgenstock Funicular directly online at buergenstock.ch/packages

Bürgenstock Hotels & Resort 6363 Obbürgen T +41 (0)41 612 60 00 info@buergenstock.ch buergenstock.ch

STANSERHORN The Stanserhorn is an easily accessible peak with spectacular views of central Switzerland’s mountains and lakes. You can ride to the top on the world’s first cablecar with an open upper deck. The deck has room for up to 30 people to stand and enjoy the ride under the open sky. Getting to Stans from Lucerne by train takes around 20 minutes.QStansstaderstrasse 19, Stans, tel. (+41) 41 618 80 40, www.stanserhorn.ch. Runs April 14 - Nov 18, 2018 daily 08:15 - 16:30, Thu, Fri, Sat until 22:00. When the weather’s good in summer book boarding passes in advance online (5Sfr) as they guarantee you a certain time slot, so you don’t have to queue. Return ticket from Stans 74/37Sfr. PILATUS Except during the very worst weather, you’ll see Mount Pilatus’ imposing peaks from almost anywhere in Lucerne. At 2,132m above sea level it’s the highest and most rugged of Lucerne’s three local mountains. Medieval legend connected Pilatus to Pontius Pilate (Pilatus in German and Latin), the Roman official who authorised the crucifixion of Jesus. The despised bureaucrat was said to be buried in a lake on Pilatus, which no longer exists. Climbing the mountain was banned by law until the 16th century, for fear this might provoke storms that would destroy Lucerne. The ban has long since been removed and Pilatus is now one of the most popular peaks to visit. With several restaurants, a hotel,  rock-climbing, a rope park and a long summer facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

toboggan run there are plenty of options. And there will always be the grassy slopes, the woods and hiking trails and the view far into the distance. You can reach Pilatus all year round by the ‘Dragon Ride’ cable car from Fräkmüntegg. Taking the bus to Kriens and the gondolas to Fräkmüntegg, the whole trip takes around one hour and 15 minutes. You can also reach Pilatus by the world’s steepest cog railway from Alpnachstad (not available in winter).QFrom Kriens (Schlossweg 1) or Alpnachstad, tel. (+41) 41 329 11 11, www.pilatus.ch. Cable car from Kriens runs daily 08:30 - 17:00. Cog railway runs daily mid-May - Nov 18, 2018. Return ticket to the peak 72/36Sfr.

BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT The all-new Bürgenstock Resort is located on top of Bürgenstock, a mountain that rises steeply out of Lake Lucerne and boasts spectacular views. It features four hotels, 12 restaurants and bars and an amazing spa with an outdoor infinity pool. It’s also great for hikes and walks up there and there’s an outdoor lift that brings you to the very top. You can reach Bürgenstock by shuttle boat and funicular, making the journey there even more spectacular. See also overleaf.QBürgenstock, Obbürgen, tel. (+41) 41 612 60 00, www .buergenstock.ch. Return ticket from Lucerne incl. ship and funicular 84/42Sfr, funicular only 50/25Sfr. July – September 2018 35


Mountains & Nature OUTDOOR DESTINATIONS

The Ice Flyer lift on Titlis lets you soar above snow and ice.

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TITLIS - ENGELBERG A rotating gondola takes you from the village of Engelberg up to Titlis at more than 3,000m  above sea level. There you have spectacular views of the glacier and dozens of mountains, which completely surround you here. Best of all, there are all kinds of snow and ice activities including snow tubing, a cliff walk and ice that’s up to 5,000 years old in the ice cave. A couple of restaurants are also available and after you’ve filled your belly you can walk it off with many ambitious hiking options or leisurely strolls. Summer activities include scooter and mountain bike rental. Regular train  departures connect Lucerne to Engelberg in just under an hour.QGerschnistrasse 12, Engelberg, uEngelberg, tel. (+41) 41 639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. First ascent 08:30, last ascent 16:00. Return ticket 92/46Sfr.

MOORACULUM SÖRENBERG Find a fascinating protected moor landscape at Rossweid above Sörenberg. The Mooraculum adventure park was created to educate its visitors about this unique natural habitat. Learn in a fun, playful way why it’s important to preserve moors and how to do it via several little adventures in the moor waterpark. A train and a bus (change to the bus in Schüpfheim) from Lucerne will bring you to Sörenberg in a little over an hour. QBergbahnen Sörenberg, tel. (+41) 41 488 21 21, www.soerenberg.ch. Admission to the park free, cable car 20/10Sfr, family ticket incl. 10Sfr voucher for the restaurant 55Sfr. RHEINFALL - EUROPE’S TALLEST WATERFALL A trip to Europe’s tallest waterfall makes for a great day out. Close to the city of Schaffhausen the water of the River Rhine plunges down an impressive 23 metres at a width of more than 150 metres. A frequent train connection from Lucerne, with a change in Zurich gets you to Neuhausen Rheinfall in just under two hours. After a short walk from the station you’ll arrive at the bottom of the falls. From here, you can take a boat over to the visitor centre or to the rock in the middle of the waterfall. Stairs lead up the rock where you’re afforded a fantastic view of the falls, spray included.QNeuhausen am Rheinfall, www.rheinfall.ch.

HIGH ON EMOTION Come and visit our year-round winter wonderland. TITLIS Cliff Walk

Snowtubing

WWW.TITLIS.CH TITLIS | CABLEWAYS, HOTELS & RESTAURANTS | 6391 ENGELBERG | SWITZERLAND | PHONE +41 (0)41 639 50 50

36 Lucerne In Your Pocket

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Lucerne for kids When it comes to holidays, children’s priorities are a bit different from those of their elders. Luckily, the Lucerne region has plenty to offer for the younger generations, from outdoor activities to interactive museums.

ACTIVITIES & MUSEUMS NEW CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE You and your kids can get to know how chocolate is made in a playful way at the visitor centre of Chocolat Frey, Switzerland’s biggest chocolate producer. On the expert trail some of Frey’s chocolate makers will explain and demonstrate the production of those sweet delicacies. And yes, you and your kids will be able to taste some of these sweet delicacies. There is a café and, of course, you can buy all of the Frey delicacies at the shop. It only takes 36 minutes from Lucerne (take the train to Aarau, then bus Nº1 to the Industrie stop in Buchs). QBresteneggstrasse 4, Buchs, tel. (+41) 62 836 24 25, www.chocolatfrey.ch/visitor-centre. Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. Admission 12/10/6Sfr, family ticket 30/18Sfr. Free admission to the café and shop. NEW HIRSCHPARK LUZERN (DEER PARK) In operation since 1614, this deer park is one of Lucerne’s oldest attractions. The 6,500m2  park has three  enclosures with  approximately 25 deer, which can also be fed. You can find information boards with facts about the European red deer species that are given a home here by a non-profit organisation. Its petting zoo is popular with kids.QFriedentalstrasse uFriedental, www.hirschpark-luzern.ch. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

SHOPS SPIELKISTE Spielkiste, literally a box of playthings, is a well-stocked toy shop. Whether you’re looking for soft toys, lego and similar, board games, model kits or outdoor stuff like balls or wooden stilts, you’ll find it here. As well as baby toys and costumes during the carnival season.QB‑4, Seidenhofstrasse 10, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 05 80, www.spielkiste.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Learning can be fun, especially at the Historical Museum.

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HISTORICAL MUSEUM The historical museum looks like a storage house, chocka-block with historic artefacts from tiny needles to huge pieces of sculpture. But there is help! Every object has a bar code which you can scan with the hand-held scanner you get. It then tells you about the object on the display, in English or German. But much better than that is the children’s quiz - lots of kids love following the story the quiz tells, running up and down the four floors looking for the objects the scanner points them to.QA‑4, Pfistergasse 24, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 228 54 24, www.historischesmuseum.lu.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. 10/3Sfr, children under 6 free.

SPORTS HALLENBAD ALLMEND This indoor swimming pool offers water fun for all ages. There is a kids pool and a 55-metre tube slide for the more adventurous. You can choose from the five pools, depending on whether you want to swim lengths (25-metre pool), dive (diving boards) or relax (wellness pool). The modern architecture and large windows allow for plenty of daylight. Watersports and swimming courses for kids and adults are on offer, check its website.QZihlmattweg 46, uZihlmattweg, tel. (+41) 41 319 37 80, www. hallenbadallmend.ch. Open 06:00 – 22:00, Wed, Fri 07:30 – 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. 12/5.50Sfr, kids under 6 years are free.

DIVE IN & ENJOY All year round swimming lessons and water sport courses. Online registration in our webshop.

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July – September 2018 37


Shopping For a town which is - after all - not very big, Lucerne has a surprisingly wide range of shopping options. If you’re buying watches, Lucerne can match or even top most larger destinations (see chapter Watches & Jewellery p.44). But there is also an impressive range of fashion boutiques, some well stocked with the international luxury brands, while others focus on lesser known, carefully chosen Swiss and international designers. Being Switzerland, chocolates and other fine food products are well represented too. The two major shopping areas are in the old town between Schwanenplatz on the lake and Mühleplatz to the west (B/C-3), and in the Neustadt (the ‘new town’) between the railway station and Hirschengraben street (A/B/C-4). Also to be considered: the all new shopping center Mall of Switzerland (see p. 42).

ACCESSORIES ATELIER TREGER Anna and Markus are two young Swiss entrepreneurs who specialize in making aesthetic, made to measure pairs of braces. Much to the delight of hipsters and business people, old and young alike. Alongside the ‘trouser carriers’ as they are known as in German, they also create and produce two fashion collections a year.QA‑4, Bruchstrasse 45, uHirzenhof, tel. (+41) 41 240 08 36, www.treger.ch. Open Wed - Fri 10:00 - 12:00, 13:30 - 18:30. Sat 10:00 16:00 or by appointment.

OPENING HOURS Most shops in the centre of Lucerne are open Mon - Fri 08:30 - 18:30, (closing time by local law) ‘latenight shopping’ is until 21:00 on Thu and Fri, though not all shops participate (more are open late on Thu). On Saturdays most shops open 09:00 - 16:00. On Sundays shops are generally closed, though there are exceptions for bakers, some jewellers, souvenir shops and others, and everything at the train station. HIRSCHMATT BOOK SHOP This independent bookstore in the new town has an English section for book lovers and book worms which focusses, in large part, on contemporary novels such as new titles by Zadie Smith, Salmon Rushdie and Ken Follett. Staff are friendly, knowledgeable and helpful and are able to order titles, if they don’t have what you’re looking for in stock. It also has a wide selection of maps.QB‑5, Hirschmattstrasse 26, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 210 19 19, www.hirschmatt.ch. Open 09:00 - 18.30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & CRAFTS NEW DALY’S IRISH SHOP Daly’s is a cosy, charming shop in Lucerne’s old town. It’s dedicated to all things Irish, including its owners who also hail from the Emerald Isle. It features fine arts, crafts, jewellery, music, books, whiskies, gins and woollen goods and it also organises whisky tastings and live music concerts. A great little shop, even if you don’t know much about Ireland.QB‑3, Löwengraben 4, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 970 22 22, www.dalys.ch. Open 10:00 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.

www.fizzen.ch

Store Luzern

Löwengraben 15

Basel–Bern–Luzern–St.Gallen–Zürich

38 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Colourful bags at Manor department store.

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OLD TOWN RECORD STORE The Old Town Record Store located up a staircase in the heart of the old town opened way back in 1976. It sells new and used vinyl and CDs including some gems from the lively, local music scene. If you’d like a tip then listen to local singer-songwriter Pink Spider and her awardwinning album The Hunch.QB‑3, Hertensteinstrasse 64, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 37 65, www.oldtownstore.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

DEPARTMENT STORES GLOBUS Globus is a high-end department store near the train station: on four levels you can find everything for beauty, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit, Marco Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches, jewellery, travel bags, lingerie and much more. After strolling lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Shopping through take a break in the pleasant restaurant on the third floor or get a drink at the bar in the delicatessen department in the basement.QC‑4, Pilatusstrasse 4, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 578 55 55, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 16:00, closed Sun. MANOR Manor is a stylish department store with an Italian flair. It specialises in young and casual fashion and mainly sells its own brands - though it has something for all needs. Besides that, there are departments for beauty, sports, household and home electronics. And last but not least a very good self-service restaurant on the top floor.QB‑3, Weggisgasse 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 419 76 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu, Fri 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION FIZZEN Fizzen does young, loud, distinct fashion, offering a range of small international brands like Swedish Fjällräven backpacks and fashion from Stüssy or Native Youth. They also have select second-hand or ‘vintage’ pieces, such as wonderfully flowery dresses from the 50s.QB‑3, Löwengraben 15, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 24 24, www.fizzen.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Casual, yet chic fashion at GANT.

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GANT The GANT store  Lucerne is located  in the old town on Weinmarkt. Founded in 1949 in the US  GANT stands for casual, yet chic fashion for both men and women. With shirts, colourful pants, casual business suits, blouses, blazers or shoes, this shop features all of the latest GANT collections.QKapellgasse 28, www.global.gant.com.

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GANT STORE LUZERN KAPELLGASSE 28 GANT.COM

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July – September 2018 39


Shopping FLOWING

CHOCOLATE WALL

NAVYBOOT These shoes are inspired by heavy-duty U.S. Marine boots, which had to be comfortable, timeless and indestructible. Navyboot designs its shoes based on these same principles and began marketing them in Switzerland in the early 1990s, but has expanded internationally since then. These days it offers handmade shoes, accessories and staff who specialise in footwear and can advise you accordingly. In Lucerne you can find them at three locations, the largest of which is on Theaterstrasse next to the Lucerne Theater.QB‑4, Theaterstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 49 20, www.navyboot.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

FOOD SPECIALITIES

NEW GRÄNICHER Gränicher has a great selection of high-end fashion and designer brands. You can find labels like Stone Island, Comme des Garcons, Canada Goose and many more. The selection varies from casual and lifestyle clothing like sneakers, hoodies and jeans to classy, business clothing like suits and shirts. You can also get style tips and advice from their fashion consultants. This review describes the men’s store, but two women’s shops are also available in the old town (Weinmarkt 8 and Weggisgasse  34).QB‑4, Pilatusstrasse 9/11, uLucerne Main Station, tel. (+41) 41 229 60 50, www.graenicher-mode.ch. Open 09:00 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. KOFLER The Kofler family opened the first Kofler fashion house in 1852 in Lucerne and it remained in the family for four generations until 1968, when it was sold to the Bachmann family, who still run the business today. Today they have different stores in Lucerne. Subito specializes in youth fashion, where as Kofler focusses on a more smart and classic style collection. The shop features international brands such as Diesel, Pepe Jeans and DKNY alongside higher-end labels such as Hugo Boss and Marc Aurel. It also has a Next by Kofler and Tom Tailor store.QC‑4, Pilatusstrasse 3, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 317 27 27, www.kofler.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Thu, Fri 09:30 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. 40 Lucerne In Your Pocket

CHOCOLATIER BACHMANN CHOCOLATE WORLD Local confectioner N°1 Bachmann has a wide range of chocolates, confectionery and cakes like the traditional Lucerne gingerbread cake. It’s also a bakery, with fresh bread and sandwiches and soups to go. This location features a cafe, a ‘Chocolate World’ with a flowing chocolate wall and an extra wide selection of chocolates - more than 50 different kinds of pralines and chocolates! Many other stores throughout town. QC‑3, Schwanenplatz 7, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 227 70 70, www.confiserie.ch. Open 07:00 19:00, Thu 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 17:30, Sun 09:30 - 18:00. LÄCKERLI HUUS The läckerli biscuits that gave this shop its name are made of honey, nuts and candied peel, they originate from Basel and they’re exceptionally hard. While we definitely recommend trying them, the shop offers many other delicacies as well: chocolates, pralines, cream caramels and flûtes. Go and have a peek if you like sweets and biscuits.QC‑2, Hertensteinstrasse 22, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 61 264 22 19, www.laeckerli-huus.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.

OUTDOOR CLOTHING & SPORTS DOODAH This friendly urban sports shop specializing in winter sports, surf and skater equipment and streetwear fashion started up in 1994 and is located 200 metres from the Lion Monument just off the main shopping street. It offers a large selection of brands such as Burton, Roxy, Volcom and Vans. Staff are helpful in answering questions you may have.QC‑2, Töpferstrasse 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 77 11, www.doodah.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Sun. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Shopping TRANSA - TRAVEL AND OUTDOOR Transa is the place for quality outdoor clothing and equipment. The team of staff are experienced specialists and can advise you on what would best fit your requirements.QA‑4, Pfistergasse 23, uKasernenplatz, www.transa.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

SHOPPING CENTRES EMMEN CENTER Emmen Center is located in Emmenbrücke, a 15 minutes bus ride from Lucerne. Here you’ll find more than 80 shops on 34’000m2 including the fashion stores Zara, PKZ, Schild and C&A, jeweller Kurz and the department store Manor to name a few.QStauffacherstrasse 1, Emmenbrücke, uEmmen Center, tel. (+41) 41 260 61 12, www.emmencenter.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

CASAGRANDE GIFT SHOP Casagrande, conveniently located on Schwanenplatz between the lake and the old town, stocks a large range of Swiss souvenirs including cuckoo clocks, Swiss army knives (free engraving with purchase), many watches, clothing, chocolate and much more over three floors. They also offer longer opening hours compared to most shops in the city and shipping options. Sister shops at Denkmalstrasse 9 (C-2) close to the Lion Monument and at Kapellgasse 24 (B-3) in the old town. QC‑3, Grendel 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 60 60, www.casagrande.ch. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:30.

SOUVENIRS SCHMOCKER SOUVENIRS Whether Swiss Army knives, cow bells, key rings, shirts, postcards, cuckoo clocks or almost any other imaginable souvenir - you ‘ll find it at Schmocker’s shop.QD‑2, St.-Leodegar-Str. 2, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 32 50, www.schmocker-souvenirs.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Transa offers a dazzling choice of rucksacks.

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THE MALL OF SWITZERLAND The Mall of Switzerland is one of Switzerland’s biggest shopping malls. Over 150 shops spread out across 65,000m2 and include everything from international fashion brands to local confectioners, restaurants and cinemas. See our special on p. 42.QEbisquare, Ebikon, www.mallofswitzerland.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun, restaurants and cinema open on Sundays.

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SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, cows and edelweiss.QB‑3, Kapellgasse 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 266 07 36, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. VICTORINOX STORE Victorinox has its very own shop in the old town, where it sells not only a good selection of its Swiss Army knives, but also kitchen knives, watches, luggage and more. You can even have your knife engraved to make it that much more special.QB‑3, Hirschenplatz 12, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 412 28 30, www.victorinox.com. Open 09:30 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.

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Mall of Switzerland ADIDAS Adidas is one of the best known brands for sporting goods and its shoes and apparel are used by some of the world’s best athletes representing many different sports. In addition to functional shoes, shorts and shirts for tennis, running, soccer and the like, Adidas also has some cool sneakers and casual clothing for urbanistas. Qtel. (+41) 41 445 00 20, www.adidas.com.

The all-new Mall of Switzerland is one of the nation’s biggest shopping malls and is located just outside Lucerne, in Ebikon. It opened in November 2017 and boasts over 100 shops spread out across 65,000m2 including everything from international fashion brands to local confectioners. However, it’s not just a shopping mall, but also a temple to leisure activities. A cinema with 12 screens and almost 2,000 seats is available (unfortunately most films  screened are versions dubbed in German) as well as a fitness centre and 18 restaurants ranging from American fast food and steaks to Asian treats. And something unique is also set to open soon - Switzerland’s first standing indoor wave pool will be set up on the premises of the mall, so you can surf in a safe environment year-round. It is set to open on September 13 (www.oana.surf ) and will also offer a shop and a restaurant. There’s also a huge ‘children’s world’ where your kids can play and have fun under professional supervision while you enjoy some shopping. It’s accessible for kids of all ages, even newborns. The mall is easy to reach from the city. Just take the S1 train from Lucerne station in the direction of Baar and in just 10 minutes you’ll reach the Buchrain stop, which is right next to the mall. In short, the Mall of Switzerland is a new paradise for shoppers in central Switzerland. Below we list some of the shops and attractions available. QEbisquare-Strasse 1, Ebikon,  tel. (+41) 41 349 60 00, www.mallofswitzerland.ch. uEbikon, Fildern. Shops are open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 16:00, Sun closed. Restaurants and leisure activities are open longer (incl. Sundays).

HOW TO GET THERE The Mall of Switzerland lies in the municipality of Ebikon, a suburb of Lucerne, just a few kilometers from the centre. The easiest way to get there is by train: from Lucerne’s main station, take the S1 train in the direction of Baar and get off at the Buchrain stop. It’s just a 10-minute ride and the station is literally right next to the mall. The train runs twice an hour, always 21 and 51 minutes past the hour. Alternatively, you can also take bus No. 23 in the direction of Gisikon/Root and get off at the Ebikon, Fildern stop (duration 20 minutes). 42 Lucerne In Your Pocket

BERSHKA Bershka is a Spanish fashion brand aimed at a young urban clientele. It was founded  in 1998 and quickly became a success. It now has over 1,000 stores all over the world, but here you’ll find its latest collections  for both men and women.Q tel. (+41) 41 440 33 72, www.bershka.com. FLYING TIGER COPENHAGEN This Danish design variety store has an ever-changing selection of colourful household  goods, decorative articles and toys. A visit to its shop is a bit like a surprise journey, as you never know what you’ll encounter. The ‘tiger’ concept has proven a big success since its first store opened in 1995. It now has over 500 locations around the world.Q tel. (+41) 41 500 45 53, www.flyingtiger.com.

Contemporary architecture, up-to-date shopping.

PD

GUESS This Guess store displays all of the Guess collections for both men and women including jeans, clothes and shoes as well as accessories like sunglasses, watches, jewellery, lingerie and perfume. The full range of casual and stylish Guess products is on display here. tel. Q(+41) 41 440 04 49, www.guess.com HOTIC Turkish shoe and accessories brand Hotiç was established by Salih Hotiç in 1938. It designs and manufactures bags, shoes and the like for both men and women, often with real leather and other natural materials. Its latest collection is available at its small shop in The Mall of Switzerland.Q tel. (+41) 41 440 33 73, www.hotic.com.tr. lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Mall of Switzerland mallofswitzerland.ch

the mall of switzerland

34 fashion shops with exclusive brands.

HOUSE OF SHIRTS If you’re looking for shirts, this shop is a really good option. The House of Shirts offers high quality shirts made in Switzerland and produced from the finest fabrics, all created with utmost care. In short, we’re pretty sure you’ll find something that suits you in this friendly shop.Q tel. (+41) 41 740 60 90, www.houseofshirts.ch.

MÜLLER Müller is a big chain of drugstores operating in many European countries, but its assortment goes way beyond that of a classic drugstore. This shop sells everything from common drugstore items to products from the following  categories: health, natural products, perfume, stationery, toys, needlework, stockings and multi-media.Q tel. (+41) 41 532 03 00, www.mueller.ch

LEE & WRANGLER Lee and Wrangler are both American brands famous for their denim jeans that were founded at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. They have now joined forces and manufacture much more than just jeans these days. Their shops also sell jackets, shirts, t-shirts, sweaters, trousers and accessories for both sexes, but most people would probably agree that nothing is as timeless as a good pair of jeans.Qtel. (+41) 41 440 00 61, www.lee.com, www.wrangler.com.

OCHSNER SPORT This shop has everything you’ll ever need for nearly any sport from running and racket sports to hiking and biking. It also sells shoes, clothing and equipment from all the leading brands including Nike, Asics, The North Face and many more.Q tel. (+41) 41 440 24 78, www.ochsnersport.ch.

MICASA HOME Looking for some new decorating ideas for your home? At Micasa Home you’ll find hundreds of home accessories that will guarantee some inspiration to give your rooms a personal touch and to make your home more comfortable. There’s also a pretty impressive home textile section with pillows, duvets, covers and curtains.Q tel. (+41) 41 445 20 60, www.micasa.ch. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Shop till you drop at the Mall of Switzerland.

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July – September 2018 43


Watches & Jewellery Lucerne is one of the major marketplaces for Swiss watches, with dozens of brands on offer. Use our watchfinder pages (overleaf ) to locate the one you’re after or just browse through the more than two dozen boutiques, most of them located around Schwanenplatz.

LES AMBASSADEURS Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery at Les Ambassadeurs. They have long established partnerships with leading brands such as as Blancpain, Breitling, Girard-Perregaux, Hublot, Jaquet Droz, Tag Heuer, Ulysse Nardin as well as Ole Lynggaard and Pomellato. Their sales staff provide expert advice in many languages.QB‑3, Kapellplatz 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 227 10 50, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sun 11:00 - 18:30. HESS UHREN These mechanic watches are manufactured in Luzern! Walter Hess and his wife Judith have spent many years

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CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 80 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweller in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Certina, Frederique Constant, Louis Erard, Tissot or their very own Christ as well as many fashion jewels.QB‑3, Kramgasse 8, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 18 80, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

YEARS

The Best of Rolex Breitling Omega IWC Chopard etc. Revised & certified pre-owned Swiss Watches and Jewelry Kornmarkt 8 Onlineshop www.rent-a-box.ch developing the design of their very own watches. In 2014 they opened a workshop and shop where they mount and sell the three different models they produce so far: the TWO.1, the TWO.2. and the TWO.2 Diamond Dust. Go and have a peek!QD‑2, Stiftstrasse 4, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 322 44 88, www.hessuhren.ch. Open Thu & Fri 14:00 - 18:30, Sat 12:00 - 16:00 and by appointment. Closed Sun - Wed. HOUSE OF CHRONOSWISS Chronoswiss produce their mechanical watches right in the city centre of Lucerne. The best thing about it: their House of Chronsowiss is open to visitors. You can actually watch the watchmakers through glass panes as they produce

HAUTE ELEGANCE OVAL 44 Lucerne In Your Pocket

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Watches & Jewellery the timepieces. Moreover, there is a whole exhibition showing and explaining the watchmaking process.QC‑2, Löwenstrasse 16b, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 552 21 80, www.chronoswiss.com. Open 08:30 - 18:30. PARTIME This Swiss designer watch simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue. Find it at Casagrande Gift Shop or order it in the webshop.QC‑3, Casagrande Gift Shop, Grendel 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 60 60, www.partimewatch.com.

www.christ-swiss.ch

WELCOME TO SWITZERLAND’S FIRST DESTINATION FOR WATCHES AND JEWELRY with a selection of more than 50 exclusive brands.

Schwanenplatz, where all watch-hunting begins in Lucerne.

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RENT A BOX This is not your typical Lucerne watch shop as Rent a Box specialises in selling certified pre-owned watches. You’ll find unique timepieces (some dating back to 1930), which you won’t find in any retail stores. The watches are carefully examined by its specialists and then repaired, restored or revised. Each watch also comes with a two-year warranty, but if you’re not into vintage things, Rent a Box also sells new watches, jewellery and brooches. The shop even buys used watches, gold and other jewellery and offers goldsmithing services. Second shop at  Buobenmatt 1 (B-4).QB‑3, Kornmarkt 8, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 561 20 26, www.rent-a-box.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 16:30, closed Sun. NEW SWATCH STORE Swatch is known for its colourful and casual watches. Most Swatches are quartz watches without mechanical clockworks, which is rather atypical for Swiss watches. These are often made  of plastic,  rubber and the like and can be bought in variety of ever-changing designs, from fashionable to classic. Its boutique in the old town has all of the latest collections.QB‑3, Weggisgasse 19, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 61 21, www.swatch.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

I N T E R L A K E N | LU C E R N E | ZU R I C H | G E N E VA L AU S A N N E | M O N T R EU X | LU GA N O

July – September 2018 45


A. Lange & Söhne Alpina Audemars Piguet Balmain Baume & Mercier Blancpain Breguet Breitling Cartier Certina Charriol Chopard Chronoswiss Corum Ebel Edox Eterna Frederique Constant Girard Perregaux Hamilton Hermès Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaquet Droz Longines Louis Erard Maurice Lacroix Mido Mondaine Movado Omega Oris Panerai Partime Patek Philippe Piaget Rado Raymond Weil Roamer Rolex Swatch Swiss Military Hanowa TAG Heuer Tissot Vacheron Constantin Victorinox Swiss Army Zenith

Watches of Switzerland, Denkmalstrasse 1-5

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Hotels Lucerne has an exceptional concentration of Grand Hotels, but there is accommodation for most other tastes and budgets as well. Sometimes rates are lower for the weekend, so if you’re flexible check when you book. Generally bathrooms are private and Wi-fi is available in the rooms, we specify where either is not the case. Rooms and public areas are usually non-smoking, but some hotels have smokers rooms and most have a smoking area. In Switzerland hotels are categorized with stars from one to five by two organizations, hotelleriesuisse and GastroSuisse. The former also gives qualifying hotels the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. The classifications are generally comparable. We list hotels according to their classification in the following categories: Cream of the Crop *****, Upmarket ****, Mid-range *** and Budget (0 to **). We also list several attractive places around Lucerne in our Out of town category, from ** to *****. Some of these are in nearby towns, others in unspoiled natural locations.

CREAM OF THE CROP SCHWEIZERHOF The elegant Neo-Renaissance Schweizerhof on the lake promenade has been setting standards in hospitality since 1845. Many rooms and all suites have breathtaking views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. The spacious, elegant rooms all have carpeted floors and classic furnishings.QC‑3, Schweizerhofquai, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 04 10, www.schweizerhof-luzern.ch. 101 rooms. A­P­W­K­H­D­F­w hhhhh THE HOTEL Designed by star architect Jean Nouvel (who also built Lucerne’s KKL), The Hotel is a luxury boutique hotel in the centre of the new town, in easy walking distance of the train station and the old town.QC‑5, Sempacherstrasse 14, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 86 00, www.the-hotel.ch. 30 rooms. A­PU ­ ­L­6­W­K hhhhh

UPMARKET AMERON HOTEL FLORA The Ameron Flora has a very central location just around the corner from the Chapel Bridge and the train station. QB‑4, Seidenhofstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 227 66 66, www.flora-hotel.ch. 161 rooms. A­PL ­ ­6­W­ K­H hhhh ART DECO HOTEL MONTANA Built in 1910 in the beginning Art Déco style, the Montana has been carefully and comprehensively renovated, bringing out the best of the original clean-lined, but luxurious design. With its hillside location it has wonderful views across the lake and to the Alps - and its own funicular which takes you down to the lake shore. The spacious rooms are kept in a modern style with Art Déco accents.QE‑2, Adligenswilerstrasse 22, uCasino-Palace, tel. (+41) 41 419 00 00, www.hotel -montana.ch. 64 rooms. A­U­6­W­K­H hhhh 48 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Grand hotels on the elegant lakeshore.

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CONTINENTAL PARK Reading lamps in Italian design and professionally applied colour schemes combined with carpets make for attractive rooms at the Continental Park. Rooms are comprehensively equipped e.g. with slippers and an umbrella, apart from the standard flat-screen TV, telephone, minibar, safe etc. The in-house restaurant Bellini serves Ticinese, i.e. southern Swiss, and North-Italian specialities.QC‑5, Murbacherstrasse 4, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 228 90 50, www.continental.ch. 92 rooms. A­P­U­L­6­ W­K­H hhhh GRAND HOTEL EUROPE The Europe is one of the handful of grand hotels built in Lucerne at the turn of the 20th century. The comfortable rooms combine a recent, refined design in matching colour tones with occasional antique pieces. The in-house restaurant Bellevue offers dining in a rich, Belle-Epoque ambiance. There are spa and sports facilities including tennis and golf.QF‑2, Haldenstrasse 59, uEurope, tel. (+41) 41 370 00 11, www.europe-luzern.ch. 169 rooms. A­P­U­L­W­K­H hhhh

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning

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Hotels HOTEL ASTORIA The Astoria is in the centre of the busy new town, but very close to the river and the old town. The modern building was designed by Swiss star architects Herzog & de Meuron. QB‑5, Pilatusstrasse 29, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 226 88 88, www.astoria-luzern.ch. 252 rooms. A­P­ U­L­6­W­K­H­F hhhh HOTEL MONOPOL LUZERN Literally just across from the train station, the Monopol was built in 1899 and has a Parisian-inspired façade with ornate Rococo elements. The generously-sized rooms are kept in a classic design. They are all equipped with flat-screen satellite TV, a minibar and a safe. There is an in-house restaurant and bar called Suite on the 7th floor. QC‑4, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 43 43, www.monopolluzern.ch. 73  rooms. A­L­6­W­ K­H hhhh HOTEL WILDEN MANN The Wilden Mann is a thoughtfully run hotel with a rich history of five hundred years which you can feel at every step. Though each room is different, all are warmly furnished with carpets, rich fabrics, antique furniture with classic upholstery and carved wood and intricate parquet flooring.QB‑4, Bahnhofstrasse 30, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 16 66, www.wilden-mann.ch. 48 rooms. A­L­ 6­W­K hhhh RADISSON BLU The modern monolith of the Radisson is situated just behind the train station, towards the lake. Inside, the design remains decidedly modern, with strong colours and organic shapes, though calmer in the rooms themselves. QD‑5, Inseliquai 12, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 369 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-lucerne. 189  rooms. A­P­U­L­W­K­H­D­F hhhh

DE LA PAIX The De la Paix boasts a central location just on the edge of the old town, in a handsome early 20th-century town house and a reputation for friendly service. The bright, modern rooms have hardwood floors, TV, radio, safe and minibar. The furnishing is straightforward, with warm colours and wood touches.QC‑2, Museggstrasse 2, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 80 00, www.de-la-paix.ch. 39 rooms. A­L6 ­ ­W­K­H hhh

Rush hour on the lake?

golovianko - Fotolia.com

HOTEL ALPINA LUZERN The Alpina with its very central and yet quiet location is a well-run, friendly tourist hotel. The rooms are furnished in a straightforward style, with either hardwood floors or carpets. All rooms have private bathrooms, hairdryers, telephones and flat-screen satellite TV and radio.QC‑4, Frankenstrasse 6, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 00 77, www.alpina-luzern.ch. 36 rooms. A­L­6­W­K­H hhh

MID-RANGE AMBASSADOR The Ambassador occupies a modern building close to the Lion monument. The bright, modern rooms have hardwood floors, radio, safe and minibar and an unsurprising, cheerful furnishing style. Though there is no in-house restaurant, room service includes dishes from the nearby restaurant Lapin.QC‑2, Zürichstrasse 3, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 81 00, www.ambassador.ch. 39 rooms. A­L­ 6­W hhh BELLEVUE The Bellevue is on the green eastern edge of Lucerne a few 100m from the lake shore, but still only 12 minutes by bus from the centre. The clean, simple rooms have carpeted floors, large windows and many have a balcony with views of the mountains. They come with a flat-screen TV, radio, telephone and minibar.QSeeburgstrasse 79, uHermitage, tel. (+41) 41 371 27 27, www.bellevue -luzern.ch. 19 rooms. A­T­L­6­W­D­F hhh facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

APARTMENTS SMART APARTMENTS Smart Apartments provides roughly 40 furnished modern apartments at five different locations in Lucerne city centre and 18 apartments in Zug. 20 are located in a listed building close to Löwenplatz (Löwenstrasse 11) and feature parquet flooring and high ceilings. Every apartment has a separate bathroom, a TV, wireless high-speed internet and built-in kitchens, some in a separate living room. All of the accommodation has a contemporary feel. The minimum rental period is one month and this includes linen and towels, electricity, heating and warm-water. A cleaning and laundry service is also available upon request.QTaubenhaussstrasse 4, tel. (+41) 41 249 21 40, www.smart-apartments.ch. July – September 2018 49


Hotels HOTEL DREI KÖNIGE The Drei Könige is in a quiet location about five minutes’ walk from the river Reuss, the old town and many sights. It occupies an Art Nouveau 7-story town house. The plain, clean rooms have furnishings with dark wood finishes and carpeted or parquet floors. They all have a flat-screen TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer. An unusual asset is the huge model railway in the attic. It is possible to arrange a visit, but access is not guaranteed. Just ask the friendly receptionists. QA‑4, Bruchstrassse 35, uKlosterstrasse, tel. (+41) 41 248 04 80, www.drei-koenige.ch. 60 rooms. A­U ­L ­W hhh IBIS STYLES LUZERN CITY Just next to the Bourbaki Panorama, this hotel is a few minutes on foot from the old town and the lake. The rooms have an attractive, pop-inspired design with accents in bright colours and dark carpeted or laminate floors. They are all equipped with a flatscreen TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer.QC‑2, Friedenstrasse 8, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 48 48, www.ibisstyles.com. 115 rooms. A­P­T­6­W­ K­H hhh LUZERNERHOF The Luzernerhof boasts a central location, near the lake and the Lion Monument. The rooms with laminate floors, colourful touches on the walls and straightforward furnishing all have a TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer. Bathrooms have either a shower or bath. QC‑2, Alpenstrasse 3, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 418 47 47, www.luzernerhof.ch. 76 rooms. A­P­L­ W hhh THE TOURIST CITY & RIVER HOTEL The Tourist has a wonderfully central location on the edge of the old town right by the River Reuss. The rooms have just been renovated and now feature wooden floors, modern white and violet colours, flatscreen TVs, hair dryers and some even have balconies facing the river, though there is a (quiet!) road inbetween. Some rooms have shared bathrooms, but free tea and coffee is available in the lobby all day. QA‑3, St. Karliquai 12, uBrüggligasse, tel. (+41) 41 410 24 74, www.thetouristhotel.ch. 25  rooms. A­U ­W hhh

OUT OF TOWN BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT The luxury Bürgenstock Resort is located on top of Bürgenstock, a mountain that rises steeply out of Lake Lucerne and boasts spectacular views (see p. 34). It features four hotels, 12 restaurants and bars and an amazing spa with an outdoor infinity pool. It’s accessible by shuttle boat and funicular.QBürgenstock Resort, Obbürgen, tel. (+41) 41 612 60 00, www.buergenstock.ch. A­P­W­K­H­ D­F­wCU­L6­hhhhh 50 Lucerne In Your Pocket

HOTEL UND BILDUNGSZENTRUM MATT Set in the gentle, green hills west of Lucerne, the Matt is a hotel as well as a compact seminar and conference centre. There are many hiking options right on the doorstep. Public transport gets you to Lucerne in half an hour.QMattstrasse 19, Schwarzenberg bei Luzern, tel. (+41) 41 499 70 99, www.bzmatt.ch. 49 rooms. A­T­U­L­6­W­K­H VILLA HONEGG If you want to escape into nature for a luxurious break, this small boutique five-star superior hotel is located on Mount Bürgenstock, 20 minutes’ drive from Lucerne. E-bikes and golf carts are available free of charge for guests to explore the surroundings.QHonegg, Ennetbürgen, tel. (+41) 41 618 32 00, www.villa-honegg.ch. 18 rooms. A­P­T­ U­B­L­6­W­K­H­C­F hhhhh

BUDGET ALPHA The Alpha is a clean, well-run hotel, with simple but cosy rooms. Single rooms share bathrooms as do some of the doubles and triples. The Alpha has two lounges with TV and books. From this quiet location it’s 5 min by bus from the railway station and 15 min on foot to the old town.QA‑5, Pilatusstrasse 66, uPilatusplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 42 80, www.hotelalpha.ch. 47 rooms. A­T­L­6­W FALKEN The privately-run Falken has a extremely central location in the old town, just around the corner from Schwanenplatz. Perfect for watch shopping! The rooms are small, but well-lit, their style is simple and functional. All have a TV, hairdryer and a safe.QB‑3, Falkengasse 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 37 37, www.hotel-falken.ch. 15 rooms. A­6­W SONNENBERG Sonnenberg means ‘sun mountain’ and that describes this hotel and its bucolic location well. On a hill above Kriens, the Sonnenberg offers panoramic views of the lake and mountains. Public transport gets you to Lucerne in just under 30 min.QZumhofstrasse, Kriens, tel. (+41) 41 320 66 44, www.hotelsonnenberg.ch. 14 rooms. A­T­L­ 6­W­K­H

HOSTEL LUZERN YOUTH HOSTEL This pleasant youth hostel is in a residential area on the edge of Lucerne, but a regular bus service gets you to the centre of town in just 12 minutes. Rooms are in good condition, have parquet flooring and many look out onto the garden. The hostel has a lounge area and a children’s corner.QSedelstrasse 12, uJugendherberge, tel. (+41) 41 420 88 00, www.youthhostel.ch/hostels/luzern. 45 rooms. A­T­U­L­K­H lucerne.inyourpocket.com


Index Adidas42 Alpha50 Ambassador49 Ameron Hotel Flora 48 Ammos17 Anker20 Art Deco Hotel Montana 48 Atelier Treger 38 Aurum XLIV 23 Bam Bou by Thomas 15 Bellevue49 Bershka42 Bistro du Théatre 16 Bourbaki Panorama 30 Brasserie Bodu 16 Brienzer Rothorn by steam train33 Brüggli27 Bürgenstock Resort 35, 50 Burgerstube (Hotel Wilden Mann)20 Buvette Inseli 25 Café de Ville 23 Capitol11 Casagrande Gift Shop 41 Château Gütsch 16 Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre37 Chocolatier Bachmann Chocolate World 40 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 44 Continental Park 48 Daly's Irish Shop 38 Das Schwarze Schaf / Das Weisse Schaf 25 De La Paix 49 Dock 14 25 doodah40 Emmen Center 41 Falken50 Fizzen39 Flying Tiger Copenhagen 42 Fondue House Luzern 17 Forum Schweizer Geschichte Schwyz30 Foxtrail14 Franky24 Frigay Night (at El Cartel) 26 GANT39 Gelateria dell' Alpi 23 Gletschergarten (Glacier Garden)29 Globus38 Grand Casino Luzern 24 Grand Hotel Europe 48 Gränicher40 Grottino 1313 18 Guess 42 Guided city walk 31 Guided Titlis tour (Best of Switzerland Tours) 31

Haifish Bar 25 Hallenbad Allmend 37 Helvetia21 Hess Uhren 44 Hirschmatt Book Shop 38 Hirschpark Luzern (Deer Park) 37 Hofgarten19 Hotel Alpina Luzern 49 Hotel Astoria 49 Hotel Drei Könige 50 Hotel Monopol Luzern 49 Hotel und Bildungszentrum Matt50 Hotel Wilden Mann 49 Hotic42 House of Chronoswiss 44 House of Shirts 43 Ibis Styles Luzern City 50 Jesuitenkirche28 Kaiten Sushi-Bar 15 Kapellbrücke & Wasserturm (Chapel Bridge) 28 Karls Kraut 19 KKL Lucerne 29 Klewenalp34 Klub Kegelbahn 27 Kofler40 Konzerthaus Schüür 26 Läckerli Huus 40 Lake Lucerne cruises 28 La Vie En Rose 23 Lee & Wrangler 43 Les Ambassadeurs 44 LiLi Centre 12 Louis Bar (Art Déco Hotel Montana)24 Löwendenkmal (Lion Monument)29 Lucerne Museum Card / Lion Pass30 Lungern-Turren34 Luzernerhof50 Luzern Youth Hostel 50 Manor39 Micasa Home 43 Moderne11 Mooraculum Sörenberg 36 Mount Rigi 33 Müller43 Museggmauer29 Navyboot40 Nefes Shisha Lounge 24 Neubad26 Nightwatchman Walk 31 Nordpol25 Ochsner Sport 43 Old Town Record Store 38 Opus20 Oskar18

facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

The Fritschi house in Lucerne’s old town.

Partime45 Pfistern Zunfthausrestaurant 21 Pikante18 Pilatus35 Pizzeria La Baracca 18 Portofino18 Radisson Blu 49 Rathaus Brauerei 26 Rent A Box 45 Reusssteg fleamarket 30 Rheinfall - Europe's tallest waterfall36 Roadhouse27 Rok27 Sacred Tantra 27 Sammlung Rosengart 30 Schmocker Souvenirs 41 Schweizer Heimatwerk 41 Schweizerhof48 Seebad14 Smart Apartments 49 SNG Lake Lucerne cruises & boats14 Song Pi Nong 15 Sonnenberg50 Spielkiste37

iStock.com/asmithers

Stadtkeller22 Stanserhorn35 Stattkino11 Stern Luzern 21 Swatch Store 45 The Bruch Brothers 27 The Hotel 48 The Mall of Switzerland 41 The Tourist City & River Hotel 50 tibits19 Titlis - Engelberg 36 Transa - Travel and Outdoor41 Treibhaus26 Ufschötti14 Verkehrshaus (Swiss Museum of Transport) 30 Victorinox Store 41 Villa Honegg 50 Villa Schweizerhof 16 Weisses Schloss 17 Wilhelm Tell (Schiffrestaurant) 22 Wirtshaus Reussfaehre 22 Wolf Burger & Steak Bar 20

FEATURES INDEX Adult entertainment 27 Breakfast 23 Cheese restaurants 17 Cinemas 11 Language smarts 8 Lake Lucerne 28 Markets 30 Meet William Tell 31 Queer Lucerne 26 Swiss cuisine 22 Tell-Pass 34 Visitor card Lucerne 7 July – September 2018 51


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Kirche Littau Bahnhof Zwyssigplatz Grenzweg Friedbergstr. h Littau, Dorf 29 sc Matt Hochhüsliweid Morgenweg t Geissmatthöhe S L 10* Gü 12 c ü Kloster hl Langenthal/ tz Mühlemattstr. Wesemlinrain f s t r. Kreuzstutz f ö in L el er Schädrütihalde s f ho ens Langnau i.E (S6) ra oo m Rig eum ssli Felsberg ho ih u z Tschädigen o s s Brüggligasse e a m a n l h n r i Schachen (S61) e e h Würzenbach n w oo Lö s t t t - s t r. a t t a i n ss n Château Dreilinden no te m Gr en ha ng r. w Bern (RE) ge at ni ic Ga Ka tz en en Lä Gütsch 8 19 in Sc Luz Bl M ön hü pl n g e l d a u s r. c h R K i G K e S a w on Kasernenplatz Ka är lin b lh ld tz Würzenbachmatte st an rne Schlösslihalde 23 Obermattstr. be Ga chu erg w puz tne serv ik S en rho Obergütschstr. 10 eg in rs B S Ga pl at t Wey Büttenenhalde r. e r t r. at f d or . An t r. d t r. ch 15 14 li z al ofst Obergütschrain r s Hirzenhof iu t s wa l g l i s na 73 e e Zumhof Gottlieben w ü s m i g r Böschenacher h Dattenbergrain l rg sch Be Gi urg in Obergütschhalde ge ein Obere Weinhalde Büttenen 8 te t hr Obere Gi St 6 r. eb he Un Gü Zä Ehrendingen Obergütsch 24 Dattenbergstr. Kreuz st erse ghö en l Steinhofrain 25 g üe Ob bur Oberhusrain Dattenberg 11 g Huob oEg hof Zumhofstr. pe s Br ner e d Unter-Dattenberg z sin e ro ib Oberhusweg tt se de ig au le Kapelle g rie ma i Sonnenbergstr. p l a t ch rsh al ste Ca alac Eu er F g s Eichenspes b H üh pet t Gemeindehaus l P h O e se ch rü i m us p eh üe Di er isc Bu ch Steinhof ul oo Schachen- Alpen- KupferMeggen rl Zentrum Hofmattha er rk Br lv gl M Pa Sc ent Luzern Bahnhof Ho öste he strasse strasse hammer Ve t r. Bellpark Pilatus Pu En 5 C ds Schlössli Kl kirc 5 el g f s r S 1 e Kantonalbank 3 iu bu Se P 71 e Balm Meggen Zentrum 20 e 15 VA Bundesplatz 14 lS Kriens, E te Grosshofstr. St. Niklausengasse Pilatusplatz Eichhof Rosenhalde gSüdpol 21 Busschleife Ho ur e Werkhofstr. Senti eb nd Grossfeldstr. Nidfeld Lerchenbühl S4 S5 S44 S55 IR Se fflä 24 ge Luzern Allmend/ Weinbergli Krauerhalle Südstrasse hi Steghof ita PilatusSc Messe Brünigstr. Eisfeldstr. rm Jos. Schryberstr. Bahnen He Zihlmattweg r Tiefe g g Sternmatt Wartegg es e Breitenlachen e e e n h n ch ac tw zw Kriens Kirchbühl Klösterli Schönbühl ha ir n por uer Mönchweg Bodenhofterrasse Mattenhof Jo k Zu S L aOberkuonimatt Feldmühle Bachstr. Waldegg Matthof 6 Friedhofstr. Geissenstein Grabenhof Rosenstr. 21 Himmelrichstr. Valid 10.12.2017 Zumbachhof Gültigfrom ab 10.12.2017 Stutz Hubelmatt Sternmatt Hammerschmiede Wegscheide Dattenmatt Kuonimatt Roggernhalde Haslihorn Rodtegg Horw Hofrüti The zone 10* charged Train Die tarif Tarifzone 10*iswird in Bahn line Kirchweg Wiggenhof Bahnhof Steinibach Stampfeli 10* Langensand Guetrüti as two zones ifmit combined with Kombination anderen Hirtenhof Stegen/Kirchfeld RBus routes RBusse 21 Mättiwil Zonenzones. für die Preisberechnung other Obernau, Dorf Biregghof Horw Zentrum 14 Felmis 16 Pilatusmarkt Busse Bus routes doppelt gezählt. St. Niklausen, Unterwil Sidhalde Steinen Feldmatt Buholz Spitz Krämerstein Halt in nur in Stop one Several stops on the border Rank Technikumstr. Werkhof Oberrodel Die Haltestellen gehören Spier eine Richtung Kreuzmatt direction only between zones. The stops belong Waldwinkel Ennethorw 20 10* zu mehreren Zonen. 21 Mühlehof to several zones 21 Endhaltestelle Terminus Dorni Kastanienbaum, Hergiswil Matt Mattli Schiffstation Stop on the borderliegt between Die Haltestelle aufzones Schiessstand Stalden Fussweg Gemeindehaus der Zonengrenze undzones gehört Stop belongs to several Obermatt Allmendli Schifflände zu mehreren Zonen. Eigenthal Hergiswil Bahnhof Giswil (S5) Wolfenschiessen (S4) Sachseln (S55) Stans (S44) Interlaken Ost (IR) Engelberg (IR)

Menziken (50) Rain (51) Rickenbach LU (52)

e Sü

t ss

Baar/Zürich (S1/IR)

Küssnacht Brunnen (S3) St. Gallen (VAE)


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RHINE FALLS

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