Podgórze SCHINDLER’S FACTORY
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In 2010, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory (to give it its full name) re-opened to the public as a world-class museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which has been well-known since Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List (which was shot almost entirely in Kraków) brought it to audiences across the world in 1993, and while that story is covered in detail on the original site where many events took place, the museum actually casts the city of Kraków in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled, ‘Kraków During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945.’ Individual histories of Kraków’s wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, everyday life under occupation, the fate of the Jews, the city’s underground resistance and more, using vast archival documents, photos, radio and film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations. Other exhibits change regularly (currently about the underground activities of the Polish Home Army), while a separate section of the original factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and other events. A must-visit, Schindler’s Factory is one of the most fascinating museums in the entire country and we recommend you reserve at least two hours if you want to see everything. Tickets can be bought online three or more days in advance (www.bilety.mhk.pl), which we strongly recommend, because visitor numbers are controlled and you could be disappointed if the museum is too busy. In fact, groups over 15 people are obliged book in advance. To get to the museum take a tram to Pl. Bohaterów Getta (L-9) and it’s a 5-10 minute walk down ul. Kącik, under the train overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and you’re there.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00. 1st Mon of each month open until 14:00 only. From November 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. Admission 24/18zł, family ticket 55zł. Mon free for permanent exhibitions. Y
ZABŁOCIE Once you’ve crossed under the train tracks you’ve entered Zabłocie. Historically an industrial area that arose in the late 19th and early 20th century, many of Zabłocie’s state-run factories closed or stagnated after 1989. Today this is the city’s most rapidly developing neighbourhood as old factories and warehouses are being torn down and replaced with modern apartment complexes and office buildings, or in some cases converted into cultural venues and restaurants, as is the case along ul. Lipowa. Advertised as artsy and cutting-edge (by the realtors of its high-rent apartment buildings), in reality Zablocie is quickly becoming little more than a transit stop for tourists, and an overpopulated housing development full of young families lamenting the lack of trees in the neighbourhood. In addition to Schindler’s Factory (p.54), MOCAK (p.55) is very much worth a visit, but if you aren’t interested in these museums there’s not much reason to investigate the area. LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE Located directly across from MOCAK, this building has been a glassworks since 1931 and actually flourished during the PRL-era when up to 500 people were employed here under the auspices of not only glass bottle production but also glass art, scientific research and industrial design. During the 1970s ‘Cracovian glass’ achieved international renown for its bold experimentation with form, colour and texture, and today Lipowa 3 is still used for national glass research and production. The idea of an educational museum showcasing Polish glass and glassblowing technology has actually existed since 1972, and recent investment has now made those collections open to the public. The permanent exhibit includes bilingual displays of historical glass tools and antique glassware, but the highlight is the impressive ‘Cracovian Glass Art Collection’ of contemporary coloured glassware produced here between 1931 and 1998. Live glass-blowing demonstrations occur hourly, and the ground floor includes a shop and a free gallery for rotating exhibits of contemporary glass art.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423 67 90, www.lipowa3.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From November open 09:00 - 17:00; Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Permanent exhibit and live demonstrations 16/14zł. Guided tours available in English by prior arrangement, 80zł.
54 Kraków In Your Pocket
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