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KrakĂłw No. 104, February - March 2017

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Back to the Salt Mines p.6 Jewish walking tour p.94 Pagan Idolatry p.78


Contents

Feature Wieliczka

6

Arrival & Transport

12

City Basics

18 20

Basic History

What’s On 22

104 106

Jewish Ghetto Nowa Huta

Further Afield

Auschwitz 110 Tarnów 113

Leisure

116

Shopping

120

Polish Food

28 46

Directory

126

Cafés

56

Hotels

128

Nightlife

60 68

Restaurants

Kazimierz Nightlife

Sightseeing The Royal Route Old Town Wawel Kazimierz Podgórze

70 72 74 90 94 100

Maps & Index

135 136 139 140 141 142

Nowa Huta Map City Map City Centre Map Street Index Listings Index Features Index

Worth the 10zł photography fee, the Chapel of St. Kinga is Wieliczka Salt Mine’s crown jewel; learn more on p.6.

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Foreword Wait, whatever happened to ‘Winter Wonderland?’ you might be wondering... Well, that was last issue, sorry. To their credit, however, the Poles did stretch the holidays out over an entire two months before the pine needles finally dropped and the smog and slush won their war with the tinsel and twinkling lights. Though the city may now be hunkering down for the last two inglorious months of winter, don’t think for a minute that it’s gone into hibernation - it hasn’t, and neither should you. Kraków still boasts two of the most magical historical districts in Europe (UNESCO says so) in the Old Town (p.72) and Kazimierz (p.94), plus you simply can’t take the shine off of Wawel Castle (p.90). This city’s beauty is intoxicating any time of year, but having the world’s highest density of bars and clubs (p.60) certainly helps. Don’t fail to familiarise yourself with the wonderful world of Polish vodka (p.64), or try the local innovation of hot mulled beer (p.61) while in town. There’s a whole calendar of events taking place (p.22), and you can even still capture some of that uniquely Cracovian Christmas magic by visiting the kooky Christmas Cribs Exhibition on the market square before February 26th (p.22). As for us, we’ve been escaping the smog and freezing temps by exploring neighbouring Wieliczka, whose famous salt mine boasts a saline microclimate celebrated for its health benefits, and the steady 15 degrees Centigrade feels absolutely cosy. Not only have we been knocking around underground in mining gear and garb, but we’ve also taken a closer look at the town itself above the soil line; check out this issue’s feature on page 6. Whatever your interest, within these pages we’ve once again compiled and dutifully updated all of the information you could ever need (and a lot more, actually) to have a great time in Kraków. You’ve basically got the place to yourself, so tuck this handy tome under your arm (or if you’re feeling randy, in your pocket) and go make the most of it. Thanks for reading.

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Szewska 22/7, 31-009 Kraków krakow@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Company Office & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676 PR & Marketing: Juan M Sarabia, 692 362 833 Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716 Circulation 20,000 copies published every two months Sales & Distribution Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warsaw Manager: Klaudia Briss 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642 Gdańsk/Łódź Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824 Editorial Writer & Editor: Garrett Van Reed; Production Manager: Maria Rulaff; Research Manager: Anna Żbikowska; Researchers: Magdalena Seroczyńska, Weronika Press; Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Jessica Szabla; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover: © WawroDesign | AdobeStock Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Feature 1

The stunning Michałowice Chamber, part of the Wieliczka Salt Mine Tourist Route. | © kanuman, AdobeStock

Worth its Salt A visit to Wieliczka proves rewarding at every level 6 Kraków In Your Pocket

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Wieliczka Kraków is without a doubt one of the most popular tourist cities in Central Europe, and as you’ve likely heard, one of its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually located in Wieliczka—a small town about 15km to the southeast. An astounding 1.4 million people visit Wieliczka Salt Mine each year, and it’s hardly a recent phenomenon—people have been visiting the salt mine for centuries with notable guests including Nicolaus Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk Chopin, Ignacy Paderewski, Pope John Paul II and former US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first official tourist trail opened underground here way back in the mid-19th century. But it’s not only tourists who come to visit. So deep is the love of the locals for this place that in a recent survey, Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine as their number one favourite thing about Kraków; again, not bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres away. Not only is Wieliczka Salt Mine a World Heritage Site, but it has the distinction of having been included (along with Kraków’s Old Town and Kazimierz districts) on UNESCO’s first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you know, back when being a World Heritage site actually meant something). Additional accolades aside, this unique industrial heritage site has been a popular destination for centuries and if you’re visiting Kraków for more than a few days, you should consider a short side trip out to Wieliczka.

WHAT TO SEE One of the most famous attractions in all of Poland, the Wieliczka Salt Mine is what has drawn tourists to this small town for centuries. Visiting this underground realm can be done in a number of ways. Most popular is the traditional ‘Tourist Route,’ which leaves from the Daniłowicza Shaft and covers the most impressive parts of the mine, including ancient mining tools and technology, saline lakes, and numerous majestic chambers and chapels, particularly St. Kinga’s Chapel. An alternative option is the more interactive ‘Miners’ Route,’ which leaves from the Regis Shaft and involves participants being assigned a role by the foreman/tour guide and experiencing the daily routines, rituals and secrets of working underground. As one of the oldest and most wealthy towns in Małopolska, it’s safe to assume that not all of Wieliczka’s wonders reside underground. Listed as a historical monument in 1994, the centre of the town itself - located between the two shafts - is easily walkable and perfectly charming, including a handsome town square, the Saltworks Castle and St. Clement’s Church. WIELICZKA SALT MINE - TOURIST ROUTE For literally hundreds of years, tourists have enjoyed the underground wonders of Wieliczka’s Salt Mine, and the most popular way to visit begins at the Daniłowicza Shaft, located just a short walk up ul. Daniłowicza from the Wieliczka train station; buy your ticket from the adjacent ticket office and check the outside display for the time of the next guided tour in your language. Your ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine: the Tourist Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, iyp.me/polandblog

GETTING TO WIELICZKA Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out of Kraków (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city limits) leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15 minutes. Alternatively, a new train service direct from Kraków’s main train station to within walking distance of the mine makes getting to Wieliczka easier than ever for tourists. Trains leave every 30mins, the journey time is only about 20mins, and tickets are 3zł each way. and the Underground Museum which takes an additional hour to visit. In between there’s an opportunity to take a break, use the restrooms and even get something to eat (or escape if that’s your preference). However, be aware that the tour does not end at the restaurant as many tour guides suggest it does to foreign groups; in fact, they are obliged to escort you to and through the Underground Museum (which you have already paid for) as well. Be prepared to do a lot of walking (comfortable shoes, people) and bear in mind that the mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to endear yourself to the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szczęść Boże (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable bit of miner’s lingo effectively means ‘God be with you’ and substitutes for Dzień dobry (‘hello’) when underground. Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden stairs to the first level 64m underground; don’t worry, you won’t have to climb them, but just descending will give your calves a work-out. Of nine levels, the tour only takes you to the first three (a max depth of 135m), with the 3.5km covered during the 3 hour tour (including both parts) comprising a mere 1% of this underground realm. While wandering the timberre-enforced tunnels you’ll gain insight from your guide into the history of the site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives of the men who worked there. There’s the opportunity to not only operate a mediaeval winch used for moving massive blocks of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring some tequila). The tour visits numerous ancient chambers and chapels in which almost everything around you is made from rock salt, including the tiled floors, chandeliers, sculptures and stringy stalactites that hang down.

Detail from a bas-relief in St. Kinga’s Chapel, Tourist Route. Alexander Baxevanis, CC BY 2.0

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Wieliczka beautiful exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of sparkling salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you back to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back to where you started.Qul. Daniłowicza 10, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia. pl. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Admission 84/64zł; taking photos is an additional 10zł. Tickets can be bought online through their website, which is the best way to see the tour times available. In addition to the traditional ‘Tourist Route’ described above, other routes in English are also offered from the Daniłowicza Shaft if booked in advance, including the ‘Pilgrims’ Route’ and a handicap-accessible route. The IYP team auditions for work underground on the Miners’ Route.

The highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m³ St. Kinga’s Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for its amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall carvings from the New Testament done by miners that display an astonishing amount of depth and realism. After passing a lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall high enough to fly a hot-air balloon in (you can take a lift to the balcony at the top for 10zł), the first part of the tour ends at the underground restaurant and souvenir stands, at which point you should be instructed on your two options: how to exit (option A) or where and when to join the second part of the tour (option B). If this option B is unmentioned or unclear, inform your guide that you also want to see the Underground Museum and ask them how to do so. At your leisure you should be able to find your way past the restaurant and restrooms, beyond which you’ll find the queue for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that shoots you back up to the surface (option A), and separate area to the right for those that want to continue on to the Underground Museum (option B, which we heartily recommend). Your original guide should admit you into the museum exhibition which comprises an additional 16 chambers over 1.5kms packed full of artwork, artefacts and mining equipment which your guide will elaborate on. Perhaps the most fascinating and informative part of the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of these

The Saltworks Castle well-seasoned with snow. Photo by A. Grzybowski

8 Kraków In Your Pocket

WIELICZKA SALT MINE - MINERS’ ROUTE A more interactive alternative to the mega-popular ‘Tourist Route,’ Wieliczka’s Miners’ Route offers visitors a chance to sign on as novice miners for the day and learn the ropes of this dangerous and demanding profession. This more workmanlike expedition sets off from the historic Regis Shaft, located right in the centre of Wieliczka, just a short walk southeast from the train station. Here, participants are given grey coveralls, a hard hat, headlamp and emergency respirator, assigned a locker, and told to suit up and report for underground duty. In addition to the fun of dressing up and looking slightly ridiculous, each person in the group is given a specific role by the foreman/tour guide who will appraise their performance when they are called upon to perform certain tasks during the course of this 3-hour trip underground. While exploring passages and chambers that are sometimes lit only by the light of your own torches, you and your companions will learn safety measures, strange mining rituals, how to use specialised mining equipment, and get a more authentic and exciting sense of what it’s like to work underground. While some members will be tasked with measuring the concentration of methane, transporting, or grinding up salt, the map readers have perhaps the most challenging job of navigating the group through this extremely disorienting underground labyrinth. Szczęść Boże! Though lacking the jaw-dropping sights of the Tourist Route, the Miners’ Route can be great fun for groups (up to 20 people), especially if you’ve done the Tourist Route before. Individuals can also go on their own, or join together to form a group. Tours are given at specific times and should be reserved in advance; please arrive 15mins before the tour begins in order to get geared up. While hardly strenuous, this route is more active than the Tourist Route and comfortable shoes are a must. Also, bear in mind that the mine is a cool 15 degrees Centigrade.QPlac Kościuszki 9, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www. kopalnia.pl. Open 09:30 - 15:00. Admission 84/64zł. Tickets can be bought online through their website, which is the best way to see the tour times available. A more physically-strenuous 4-hour tour called ‘Mysteries of the Wieliczka Salt Mine’ is also offered in English from Regis Shaft if booked two weeks in advance. iyp.me/krakow


Wieliczka

St. Clement’s Church

© TRick, AdobeStock

SALTWORKS CASTLE & MUSEUM If you’ve survived the mine and are up for more sightseeing in Wieliczka, from the Daniłowicza Shaft it’s a short, rather picturesque walk to the Saltworks Castle, which served as the administrative seat of the Cracow Saltworks Board. Originally built between the 13th and 16th centuries, the castle was demolished during World War II before being beautifully reconstructed in 1984. The castle courtyard features the foundations of the original oval-shaped defensive walls and a 14th century tower that once housed a prison and shooting gallery. The main building holds a museum documenting the history of Wieliczka and the castle itself from its early beginnings to modern times, local archaeological findings, a model of 19th century Wieliczka, a collection of saltcellars from all over the world, and other temporary exhibits. This is hardly required visiting, but interesting enough to warrant the entry fee if you have time. In June 2013 it was also included on the UNESCO World Heritage List, so that must be worth something, right?Qul. Zamkowa 8, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 58 49, www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl. Open 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 15zł, Sat free. Guided tours in English 45zł per person; must be booked at least 10 days in advance. N

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION This small tourist information centre is strategically located quite close to the Wieliczka train station, evenly spaced between the Regis and Daniłowicza Shafts. These folks will get you pointed in the right direction and provide you with all the maps and info needed to get you there, as well as helping you find places to eat, sleep and investigate.Qul. Dembowskiego 2A, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 288 00 52, www.ckit. wieliczka.eu. Open 09:00 - 17:00. WIELICZKA PROMOTION & SALES OFFICE Devoted to Wieliczka Salt Mine, head to this tourist info point in the centre of Kraków in order to pick up info about all there is to do in Wieliczka, plan your trip, buy tickets and even pick up some salty souvenirs. You can do all of those things once you get there also, mind you, but these folks will presumably help you make it easier. QB‑3, ul. Wiślna 12A, tel. (+48) 12 426 20 50, www. kopalnia.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 10 Kraków In Your Pocket

ST. CLEMENT’S CHURCH Wieliczka’s primary place of worship, the present building is actually the third built on this site, with the first purportedly dating back to the 13th century. A Gothic brick edifice was erected in 1381, and survived until 1786 only to be damaged by mining in the area and torn down by the Austrians. Only the tomb chapel of Barbara and Władysław Morsztyn survived, and is today one of the most treasured monuments in Wieliczka; check out the skull and batwings on the portal leading to the vault of the chapel. In the early 19th century, a new parish church based on the principles of Classicism was built on the old foundations, and consecrated in 1826. Pink on the outside and gold on the inside, the interiors are actually quite eye-popping. In addition to the Morsztyn mausoleum, inside you’ll find about a dozen historic altars from the 19th century and some exhibits in crypt, the highlight of which is a 15th-century gilded monstrance (crypt open Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00; admission 2zł). Outside to the south is a late-Baroque belfry, historic vicar’s house (today a bank) and sculpture of St. Florian.Qul. Zamkowa 7, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 37 66, www.klemens.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:30; Sun 15:30 - 17:30. No visiting during mass please. UPPER TOWN SQUARE If you have a stroll about Wieliczka, you’ll find the charming town square just a block north of the Saltworks Castle and St. Clement’s Church. Dating back to the end of the 13th century, most of the buildings you’ll see surrounding the small square today date back to the 19th century. The most notable exception is the Przychocki Palace - the bright orange building with its grand double stairs dominating the south side of the square (Rynek Górny 2). Built on the foundations of the original town hall in the late 18th century by Kazimierz Przychocki, this neo-classical palace housed a junior high for years, and is today a vocational school. A plaque on the outside commemorates Edward Dembowski’s rallying of the miners and townspeople, who set out from here on February 24th 1846 en route to Kraków to fight against Austrian rule in the Kraków Uprising; the story has an inglorious end, unfortunately, as the Uprising was short-lived, and Dembowski was dead three days later. Occupying the square are the bronze sculptures of four miners emerging from below ground, which have now been incorporated into a large 3D painting that dominates the northern part of the square. Claiming to be the second largest 3D painting in the world, when viewed from the correct, conveniently marked spot, this work by Ryszard Paprocki creates the optical illusion of looking deep into the underground complex. A memorial plaque commemorating Wieliczka’s Jewish population, which describes their fate in detail, can also be found on the outside of Rynek Górny 7.QRynek Górny, Wieliczka. iyp.me/krakow


Christmas in Krakรณw

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Arrival & Transport

Kraków Airport | Photo by piviso.com on flickr.com

Kraków is well-connected regarding transport, with a new airport just 17km west of the centre, a recently modernised joint train and bus station on the edge of the Old Town, and some of Poland’s better roads connecting it to Katowice, Wrocław and Berlin to the west, Tarnów and Rzeszów to the east, Kielce and Warsaw to the north and Budapest to the south. The city also boasts a comprehensive and easyto-use public transportation system, which some visitors won’t even find necessary thanks to most attractions being within easy walking distance of one another (not to mention walking being one of the best ways to enjoy Kraków). In this section you’ll find all you need to know about getting in and out of Kraków, as well as around the city with general ease.

BY PLANE KRAKÓW AIRPORT Located 17km west of the city centre, Kraków Airport was the subject of a one billion PLN investment, which resulted in the opening of a brand-new passenger terminal in September 2015. The newly expanded and modernised T1 passenger terminal now handles all airport operations and conveniently connects directly to the airport parking garage, the Hilton Garden Inn hotel next to it, and the new Balice train station via a skywalk leading straight into the terminal. Terminal 1 boasts the full services and amenities of a modern airport, including ATMs and currency exchange, tourist information, car rental desks, restaurants and shops, new business lounges and VIP services. Despite the increase in volume, getting through check-in and security at Kraków Airport is still relatively speedy compared to most airports. 12 Kraków In Your Pocket

GETTING TO/FROM THE AIRPORT The best way to get between the airport and Kraków’s Old Town is by train. Trains run reliably every 30mins between 04:00 and 24:00, departing from platform 3 of Kraków’s train station (check rozklad-pkp.pl for exact departure times). The journey time is about 18mins, and passengers are dropped off at a new Balice station that is right near the airport terminal. Tickets are 8zł, and can be bought from ticket machines on the platform, or on-board the train. In the unlikely event that you can’t take the train, public buses 252 (departs every 40mins) and 208 (once an hour) also journey to the centre, as does night bus 902 (hourly departures beginning at 23:25). Bus is the cheaper option, but the journey takes 35-45mins depending on traffic. Buy a 4/2zł single journey fare from the ticket machine at the bus-stop or on-board the bus. Upon leaving Terminal 1, you’ll find the bus stop to your right. Exact bus times and routes can be checked online at mpk.krakow.pl or krakow.jakdojade.pl.

Photo by piviso.com on flickr.com

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Arrival & Transport AIRPORT TAXIS The airport has its own ‘Krakow Airport Taxi’ service with vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrance. The idea is that this ‘trusted’ service offers a fixed price from the airport to the Old Town, with no monkey business and no night time price hikes. In reality, this service is fleecing people by protecting its ridiculously high prices. If you go more than 15km the ‘fixed’ price jumps from 69zł to 89zł, so expect to pay 89zł unless your hotel is en route on the outskirts of the city centre. We advise confirming the fare for the 25-35min journey beforehand, and trying to split the cost with other travellers in the same situation.

The best Kraków

has to offer in one great app

Conversely, fares from the Old Town back to the airport range from only 35-70zł depending on time of day, and whether you call ahead or hail one in the street. Use our Taxi listings (p.17) and you should be able to negotiate a daytime fare as low as 40zł from the Old Town. That’s a huge difference.Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58 00, www.krakowairport.pl.

BY BUS KRAKÓW BUS STATION Although somewhat integrated into the Kraków Glówny underground transportation centre, Kraków retains its own separate bus station, located directly east of the train platforms. The small building comprises two floors with access to two levels of bus departure gates. Inside the top floor of the bus station you’ll find the main ticket windows (tickets can also be bought downstairs), a 24hour toilet, food vendors, exchange bureau (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and information point (open 07:00-20:00). Lockers for left luggage cost 8-15zł (depending on size) for 24 hours, however are unavailable when the main hall is closed between 22:00 and 06:00. During this time there is a separate night time waiting room. Those arriving to Kraków by bus will find taxis nearby on both the upper and lower floors, as well connections to public transport nearby. Unfortunately, the most direct way into the Old Town is through the underground Kraków Główny; once you’re inside this labyrinth follow the clearly marked signs for ‘Stare Miasto’ or ‘ul. Lubicz’ to exit in the direction of the market square. Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour journey. For exact departure times check the website which is also in English. Mini-bus is actually your best option for getting to some popular destinations like Wieliczka and Niepołomice. Many mini-buses leave not from the bus station, but from the bus lot across from Galeria Krakowska at the corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2). Only a short walk away, follow signs to ‘ul. Pawia’ into and out of the shopping mall to get there.QE‑1, ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.mda.malopolska.pl. Ground floor ticket office open 07:00 - 19:45. Level -1 ticket office open 05:00 - 22:00. iyp.me/polandblog

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Arrival & Transport USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS JAKDOJADE: Despite the fact that Kraków’s tram and bus network is incredibly easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the krakow.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the couple euros you’ll spend to download it. For those who prefer to feel smarter than their phones, you can also find timetables and network maps at mpk. krakow.pl. ITAXI: If you don’t have the patience for public transport in the first place, there’s a nifty app for ordering taxis in PL: iTaxi.pl. iTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Best of all, the drivers register to create a profile, and are heavily vetted so there’s no funny business. Download it for free from their website. UBER: Not only has Uber (uber.com) arrived in Poland, but the company is investing heavily in Kraków specifically, currently building its first-ever Regional Centre of Excellence in PL’s ancient capital, which will open in 2017 and serve as their European hub. If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Kraków and all of Poland. 14 Kraków In Your Pocket

BY TRAIN KRAKÓW MAIN TRAIN STATION Following a 130 million PLN modernisation project, Kraków Główny - the catch-all title of the city’s vast underground transportation centre - now offers easy transfers between train, bus and tram transport. Of course the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall is also cleverly integrated, and along with modern conveniences like waiting rooms, escalators and elevators, you’ll also find plenty of additional consumer opportunities, including cafes, supermarkets, souvenir shops, bookstores and more. With tunnels, stairs and signs leading off in every direction, it’s all quite confusing (erm, we mean, modern!), but fear not - IYP will help you sort it out.

SERVICES Pretty much everything the modern traveller could ever expect or desire can be found somewhere inside the sprawling, but spiffy facilities of the Kraków train station. In addition to being fully handicap-accessible, there are also special paths for the blind, plus SOS call boxes if you get lost and can’t find your way out for several days. 24 ticket windows (some open 24hrs), plus several automated ticket machines (in English) throughout the station limit the possibility of long queues. The station is wifi-enabled, there are several waiting areas (including a place for first-class ticket holders to quarantine themselves), a tourist information office (open 06:00 - 22:00), currency exchange, luggage lockers, showers, and dozens of food and refreshment opportunities, not to mention the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall. ARRIVING BY TRAIN Conveniently situated at the north-east edge of the Old Town, Kraków Główny is within easy walking distance of most Old Town accommodation, making trams and taxis largely unnecessary. If you’re travelling further than you care to walk, you can catch trams to Kazimierz (number 19 in the direction of ‘Borek Fałęcki’ stops at ‘Miodowa’ (E5) in Kazimierz, for example) and other parts of the city by following signs underground to ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel.’ Further tram stops are located just outside the station exits. To skip that trouble however, when you disembark your train immediately head up rather than down from the platform and you’ll find yourself on the top floor parking garage where taxis are waiting to whisk you away. iyp.me/krakow


Arrival & Transport If you opt to walk - and we encourage you to do so, wandering into the Old Town is dreamy - you’ll find that getting out of the station is now a bit of a challenge. There are at least four exits and it’s wise to choose the correct one, based on where you want to go. Following signs to ‘ul. Pawia’ will lead you straight into the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall (in the words of Admiral Ackbar: “It’s a traaap!”). Signs to ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ or ‘ul. Bosacka’ will put you on the east side of the transport complex (further from the market square). If you want to head straight to the market square (do it, it’s only 10mins away!) it is easier to take the stairs down from the platforms to the old ‘Magda’ tunnel, rather than the escalators into the new complex. Once in the tunnel there is a staircase just after platform 1 that will lead you to daylight. If you end up in the new main complex, follow the clearly marked signs to ‘Stare Miasto’ or ‘ul. Lubicz’ to escape. Once outside, cross the plaza in front of the old station building (Galeria Krakowska is on your right) to the Andels Hotel and follow the crowds through the underpass (D-2); bear right and enjoy a stroll through the Planty Park for two blocks before making a left on Floriańska Street at the Barbican (D-2) and you’re on the ‘Path of Kings’ to the market square. You’ve arrived. DEPARTING BY TRAIN With the train station having been completely moved underground, there’s no longer a clear-cut main entrance, but rather several ways to enter. Basically it is directly underneath the train platforms and bus station (E-1), so use those as your geographical targets and you’ll find your way; you can also cut through Galeria Krakowska to get there. Easily accessed by public transport, there are tram stops all around the train station. If you take the tram or bus to the ‘Dworzec Głowny’ stop you will end up somewhere near the intersection of Basztowa/Lubicz and Pawia/Westerplatte streets (D-2, there are several stops at this intersection); head through the underpass (if necessary) and across the square in front of Galeria Krakowska to the train platforms. If you take the tram or bus to ‘Dworzec Główny Zachód’ (D1), enter Galeria Krakowska, descend one level and follow the signs. If you take the tram to ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel’ (E-1) you are basically already in the underground transport centre - just follow signs to the train platforms. Finally, if you take a tram or bus to ‘Dworzec Główny Wschód’ (E-1) navigate yourself through the roundabout toward the buses and you will see the main entrance of the new train station. All of these are perfectly good options, it just depends where you are coming from. Station departures (odjazdy) are listed on yellow timetables, arrivals (przyjazdy) are the white ones; check the timetables online at the Polish railways website rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English language functionality. If you want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from the conductor, but expect a surcharge.QE‑1, ul. Pawia 5A, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance, seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00. iyp.me/polandblog

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Leonid Andronov, AdobeStock

While Krakow has no underground metro system it does have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from 05:00 - 23:00, with night trams and buses continuing less frequently after that. Check official timetables and network maps online at mpk.krakow. pl (which has English functionality), or figure out how to get from point A to point B via jakdojade.pl - an invaluable navigation site and transport app (see p.14). Seriously, this service is why we no longer find it useful to print a tram map in our guide. Transport tickets can be purchased from the handy ticket machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board most trams and buses, or from the driver immediately on boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the ticket machines at stops take bills and bank cards, but most of those on board trams and buses take coins only, so have some change handy. Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed, allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within the alloted time. The cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a cost of 2.80zł. By our estimation, this is about the time it should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic, and ideal for travel around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgórze. If you’re going outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example), we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80zł. 1-hour, 24hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend family passes for 16.00zł are also options. Note that those over the age of 70 ride for free, as do kids until age 4 (ages must be proven with ID). ISIC and Euro<26 Student cards are valid for transport ticket discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26. Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket onboard. Beware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing out costly fines to those without valid tickets, and are notoriously unsympathetic towards tourists. Seriously, riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Kraków. February - March 2017

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Arrival & Transport BY CAR

CAR RENTAL All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid foreign licence or international driving permit. Be aware, however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know from borrowing their girlfriend’s car, or renting one for that matter). Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a rental car.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of accidents and traffic jams around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/ hr on motorways. Cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/ alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know). The A4 highway runs right through Kraków connecting it to Berlin (via Katowice and Wrocław) to the west and Rzeszów to the east (via Tarnów). While points east are currently tollfree, a 10zł toll is paid when you enter the motorway in the direction of Katowice, and again when you exit. Driving around the city itself is incredibly frustrating thanks to frequent roadwork, one-way streets, permit-only streets, and high traffic volume; parking is yet another challenge. As such we recommend you ditch your vehicle for public transportation at the first opportunity. Street parking is available between the large parking signs on the sidewalks, and is free on weekends; otherwise buy a parking pass from the ticket machine (most of which only take coins, of course) or neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, and place it on the driver’s side of your dashboard. The cost of street parking is 3zł for the first hour, 3.50zł for the second, 4.10zł for the third, and after that back to 3zł. Public parking lots are also marked on the map in the back of this guide. 16 Kraków In Your Pocket

Internationally trusted service offering a range of vehicles from two-door sedans to luxury mini-vans. Located here near the train station, with a pick-up/drop-off point nearby at the car park above the station (ul. Wita Stwosza 4, open 08:00 - 22:00). Also at the airport (open 06:00 - 24:00).QJ‑2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 601 20 07 02, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, or by prior arrangment.

A wide range of cars and makes including BMW, Skoda, Kia, Opel and Nissan. All cars are equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website.QD‑2, ul. Zacisze 7 (3rd floor, room 7), tel. (+48) 601 54 53 68, www.joka. com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Outside of these hours on request. EUROPCAR Offering both short and long term rental options with 9 different categories of car available for your individual needs. Excellence in service with benefits tailored to your specific requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including Kraków-Balice, tel. 12 258 12 86.QJ‑4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 56 96, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

The Polish Fiat, or ‘Maluch’ - produced in PL from 1972-2000; considered a family car during the communist era.

iyp.me/krakow


Arrival & Transport TAXIS Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling ahead will get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street make sure it is clearly marked with a company name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. You can expect a standard fare to be about 7zł plus about 2.30zł per kilometre; at night and on Sundays, however, fares increase by up to 50%. For those just arriving in town, taxis await you on the rooftop parking lot of the train station, and outside the airport where ‘Kraków Airport Taxi’ has a monopoly on service to the Old Town, charging an outrageous 69-89zł for the fare. We suggest you split it with like-minded travellers in the same predicament. Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one. But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.

Alternative taxi service Uber (much-loathed by Kraków’s taxi companies) is also now available in Poland, and has in fact chosen Kraków as its European hub. Uber (uber. com) offers one-tap, cashless transport via their popular worldwide mobile application. Those already familiar with Uber will find Kraków well-covered by the service, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for cheaper rates. BARBAKAN TAXI Qtel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl. ICARQtel. (+48) 12 653 55 55, www.icartaxi.eu. MEGA TAXIQtel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu. RADIO TAXI 919 Qtel. (+48) 12 191 91, www.radiotaxi919.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

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City Basics FACTS & FIGURES

MARKET VALUES

TERRITORY Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of January 20, 2017 based on €1 = 4.32zł

LONGEST RIVER Kraków is split by the Vistula (Wisła) River. At 1,047km it is Poland’s longest river, flowing through Warsaw and into the Bay of Gdańsk. HIGHEST POINT The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra Mountains. By comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and the city lies 219m above sea level. POPULATION (2016) Poland - 38,483,957 Warsaw - 1,744,400 Kraków - 761,100 ​Łódź - 700,982 ​Wrocław - 635,800 ​Poznań - 542,300 ​Gdańsk - 462,249 ​Katowice - 301,834 LOCAL TIME Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Kraków it’s 6:00 am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997. English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency Rooms can be found in the Directory on page 126. If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling a private clinic (p.127), thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which you’ll find on page 126. 18 Kraków In Your Pocket

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers candy bar 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

10.10 zł 1.75 zł 23.99 zł 2.59 zł 9.00 zł 2.89 zł 15.50 zł 4.97 zł 3.80 zł

€ 2.34 € 0.41 € 5.55 € 0.60 € 2.08 € 0.67 € 3.59 € 1.15 € 0.88

LAW & ORDER In general Kraków is far safer than most West European cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Perhaps the biggest danger in Kraków is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided and heard coming a mile away. Finally, foreign men should be suspicious of young women who take an overactive interest in them and suggest going to some dodgy nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance of being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated drink charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens. Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to complete prats who’ve thought it perfectly acceptable to drop their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain - have tested the patience of local law enforcement, which is now decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Kraków’s premier drunk tank on ul. Rozrywka (which literally translates as ‘Entertainment Street’), where you can expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of course). Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding public transport without a ticket (see p.15) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised iyp.me/krakow


City Basics to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the fine on the spot.

LANGUAGE SMARTS

MONEY

On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, and even the occasional restaurant or bar, will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor.’ Kantors will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM, though for obvious reasons be very wary of kantors at the airport, train station and close to tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list of kantors in Kraków that won’t rip you off, see page 126. Since EU ascension, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain than it was ten years ago. Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema typically costs 15-25zł, while admission to most museums costs around 5-15zł.

RELIGION According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the Church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. Kraków’s own Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm for the Church a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time, and the droves that flock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Kraków’s many churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of worship to be treated with the requisite respect. iyp.me/polandblog

Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Kraków and may even win you friends and admirers.

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... I’m from England. Do you speak English? I don’t speak Polish. I don’t understand. Two beers, please. Cheers! Where are the toilets? You are beautiful. I love you. Please take me home. Call me!

Mam na imię... Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku? Nie mówię po polsku. Nie rozumiem. Dwa piwa proszę. Na zdrowie! Gdzie są toalety? Jesteś piękna. Kocham cię. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…) (Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?) (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) (Dvah peevah prosheh.) (Nah zdrovyeh!) (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Train station Bus station One ticket to…

Lotnisko Dworzec PKP Dworzec PKS Jeden bilet do…

(Lot-nees-ko) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)

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Basic History One of the oldest cities in Poland, archaeological evidence proves that there were settlements in the Kraków area as early as the Palaeolithic period, with stone tools found on Wawel Hill dating back - way, way back - to 50,000BC. Legend attributes the city’s founding to Krakus, the mythical ruler who vanquished the Wawel Dragon. The mysterious earthwork Mounds named after Krakus and his daughter Wanda, located in the Podgórze and Nowa Huta districts respectively, were probably built in the 7th century. However, historians date the settlement of Kraków’s Old Town slightly later in the 8th century, crediting it to a tribe of pagan Slavs known as the ‘Vistulans.’ By 966, the date of the first written record of the city’s name, Kraków had already grown into a busy commercial centre, thanks in part to the amber trade. In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the Moravians, passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule before being incorporated into the principality of the Piast dynasty in the 990s, thus creating the Kingdom of Poland. The city developed rapidly, acquiring its own bishopric in 1000, and in 1038 Kraków became the capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle becoming the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was marked by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in 1241 when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and 1287. Following this last embarrassment, the city was surrounded by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers and gates which would be modernised over the next few centuries. Kraków particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz which were closely connected with and would later be incorporated into Kraków. A huge patron of the arts and sciences, in 1364 he founded the Kraków Academy, now known as Jagiellonian University - one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in Europe. Prosperity continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian Jagiello dynasty (1386-1572) as Kraków experienced its ‘golden age.’ Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive new buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks, and Wawel Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance architecture. However, after several centuries of roaring times the city’s fortunes began to turn with the death of King Zygmunt II in 1572, who left no heir. With the throne passing to the Swedish House of Vasa, Kraków’s importance began to decline, resulting in Sigismund III’s decision to move the Polish capital to Warsaw in 1596; however Kraków maintained its role as the official site of royal coronations and burials. 20 Kraków In Your Pocket

Woodcut of Kraków from the Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493

The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the Swedish Invasion (1655) and a bout with the ‘Black Death’ that claimed 20,000 residents. In the late 18th century, Poland passed the world’s second democratic constitution (after the US) on May 3, 1791, however only days later the country’s more militarised and expansionistminded neighbours Russia, Prussia and Austria invaded and imposed the First Partition of Poland (1772-73) on the weakened country; a second partition transpired twenty years later. Kraków developed a reputation as a bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in 1794, Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko initiated his famous Insurrection on Kraków’s market square; it eventually failed and the Prussians soon stepped into the city to loot the entire royal treasury. Poland was partitioned a third time (1795) and Kraków became part of the Austrian province of Galicia. Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation Kraków’s fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable exceptions of the section around the Floriańska Gate and the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where they once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that imposed in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and as a result Kraków became a centre of Polish nationalism, culture and art during the pre-war ‘fin de siecle’ era. The city was also modernised during this time with running water, electricity and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being installed ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th century.

View of Rynek Główny and the Cloth Hall, 1870

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Basic History When the First World War broke out, Kraków was besieged by Russian troops forcing many residents to flee the city. Kraków became the first Polish city liberated from Austrian rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned revolt against the Austrian garrison in Podgórze freed the city in advance of the war’s end. The Treaty of Versailles would establish the first sovereign Polish state in over a century, however twenty years later in September 1939, Nazi German forces entered Kraków, setting up command of their ‘General Government’ (the Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be purified and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel Castle. Over 150 professors from Jagiellonian University were rounded up and shipped to concentration camps in what is known as ‘Sonderaktion Krakau.’ The Jewish population was ejected from Kazimierz into a ghetto in the Podgórze district, with the Liban and Płaszów work and concentration camps close by. The Jewish ghetto, whose population fluctuated between 15,000 and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants shot where they stood, sent to work in Płaszów or sent to their deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Kraków was liberated on January 18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the city miraculously coming through the Soviet offensive almost completely intact.

Jewish captives, assembled for slave labour, 1939.

Following WWII, the dubious process of ‘Sovietisation’ began, and the district of Nowa Huta was built around the country’s largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an attempt to weaken Kraków’s intellectual and artistic heritage through industrialisation. Almost forty-five years of communism followed, including a year and a half of martial law, before the Solidarity independent trade union gathered enough momentum to force free elections in 1989 in which Lech Wałęsa became the first post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Kraków’s Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the first UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year Kraków’s archbishop Karol Wojtyła became the first non-Italian pope in 455 years. Because of its preservation, today Kraków is arguably Poland’s most important historical and cultural artefact. In 2016 the city was visited by over 12 million tourists. iyp.me/polandblog

HISTORICAL TIMELINE 966: First written record of the city 1000: Kraków bishopric established 1038: Kraków becomes the capital of Poland 1257: Kraków granted municipal rights 1320: First royal coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King Władysław the Short 1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of the Wisła River 1364: Jagiellonian University founded 1386: Kraków wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and Lithuanian grand duke Jagiello creates the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth 1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw 1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city 1683: King Jan III Sobieski defeats the Ottoman Empire in the Battle of Vienna, saving Christian Europe 1734: Final coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King August III 1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First Partition of Poland follows 1794: Prussian army captures Kraków after the failed Kościuszko Uprising 1796: Kraków becomes part of Austrian Galicia after the Third Partition of Poland 1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe 1939: Nazi occupation begins 1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in Podgórze 1942: Płaszów concentration camp established in Podgórze 1943: Liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto 1945: Kraków ‘liberated’ by the Soviet Army 1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta 1978: Kraków’s Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz added to the UNESCO World Heritage List; Karol Wojtyła inaugurated as Pope John Paul II 1981: Martial law declared in Poland 1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wałęsa wins the Nobel Peace Prize 1989: Free elections in PL; Communist regime crumbles 1999: Poland joins NATO 2000: Kraków is the first Polish city to be named ‘European Capital of Culture’ 2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Błonia to participate in a mass by Pope John Paul II 2004: Poland joins the European Union 2010: 96 Polish delegates die in a plane crash near Smoleńsk, Russia, including President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria, who are controversially buried in the Wawel Royal Crypts 2013: Kraków is designated UNESCO ‘City of Literature’ 2016: Kraków hosts Pope Francis and millions of pilgrims during World Youth Day February - March 2017

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What’s On

Photo by Andrzej Janikowski, MHK

CHILDREN’S EVENTS 29.01 14:00, 21.03 11:00, 27.04 11:00 » ALICE IN MUSICAL WONDERLAND

Music, magic, action, intrigue and laughter can be expected from this Filharmonia Futura spectacle aimed at kids ages 6-12. Playing out on-stage and on-screen simultaneously, the audience will get to know unique characters like a rapping rabbit, Jazzman the Hatter, Fiddler on the Roof and Duchess Atonalia. Travelling across the Kingdom of Musical Magic, our Alice learns about different styles and genres of music, thus adding educational value to the amusing, fantastical story as well. Included in the performing ensemble are notable Polish stars Zbigniew Wodecki and Małgorzata Ostrowska.QH‑3, Kijów.Centrum, Al. Krasińskiego 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 00 33, Tickets 45zł. Available at www.kupbilecik.pl and Kijów.Centrum, www.filharmoniafutura.pl.

EXHIBITIONS 05.12 - 26.02 » CHRISTMAS CRIBS (SZOPKI) EXHIBITION

One of Kraków’s most idiosyncratic Christmas traditions is the popular creation of ‘szopki’ or ‘Christmas cribs’ as they are somewhat oddly referred to in English. Something of a strange cross between a nativity scene, gingerbread house, and dollhouse, these unique structures more resemble colourful, foil-covered castles or cathedrals than cribs, and are the bizarre result of a folk tradition started in the 19th century. These impressive folk creations are moved to the History Museum following a competition on the Main Square each year, where awards are given in a number of categories. The szopki on display range from 22 Kraków In Your Pocket

those laboured over during the course of the entire year by master craftsmen, to those made by local primary schools, and visiting the szopki exhibition is part of holiday season tradition for most families in Kraków. Don’t miss it.QC‑3, History Museum, Rynek Główny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 35, Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Tickets 9/6, family ticket 18zł, www.mhk.pl.

28.01 - 18.06 » HARBINGERS OF CHAOS

The work of Indian artists Prabhakar Pachpute and Rupali Patil focuses on the industrial exploitation of nature and its consequences on nature and man. Prabhakar Pachpute returns to his familiar world of mines through spatial installations, animations, sculptures, and coal-made drawings. The tragedy of thirty Chilean miners, trapped underground for seventy days, inspired Pachpute, which is evident through themes in his work connected to the psychological consequences of working underground. Rupali Patil, a frequent collaborator of Pachpute’s, is a graphic artist and illustrator particularly interested in social issues. In her work she confronts subjects like corruption and the abuse of authority against Indian citizens. Both artists devote their attention to mining traditions, the living conditions of miners, and the role of women in mines. The exhibition will be preceded by the artists’ monthly residency, during which Pachpute and Patill will look at the Polish mining industry. “We thought of it as a conversation between two artists and two entirely different countries. We are very curious how these Indian artists will react to their experiences in Poland,” says Lidia Krawczyk, one of the curators.QB‑2, Bunkier Sztuki, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 52, Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł; Tue free, www. bunkier.art.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. iyp.me/krakow


What’s On 10.02 - 23.04 » TREASURES OF THE BAROQUE

This is the first big Baroque art exhibition from Slovakia in Poland. The main part consists of High and Late Baroque paintings and sculptures from the Slovak National Gallery in Bratislava and 17 other Slovak cultural institutions, as well as artworks from Poland, Ukraine, Hungary and Czech Republic. Aiming to present this work in a wider spectrum and emphasise the mutual artistic ties between Poland and the territory of contemporary Slovakia, the exhibit puts special emphasis on the border region of Spiš, and draws attention to domestic and international artists, particularly Austrian and AustroItalian, who defined local Baroque expression in both countries.QH‑3, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Tickets 12/8zł, family ticket 20zł, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon.

14.02 - 31.05 » 50 SHADES OF SEX - EROTIC ART EXHIBIT

Right on the market square of Poland’s UNESCO-enshrined cultural capital comes this tourist-baiting and churchagitating exhibit of erotic art inspired by the trashy but titillating novel 50 Shades of Grey, and also, according to the organisers, by the history of the Kromerowska townhouse at Rynek Główny 23 in which it is housed. With great imagination, and in great detail, the organisers have mythologised the building’s history into what we’ll just quickly summarise as centuries of secret liaisons and orgies. Collected in the building’s gothic cellars, the exhibit leads viewers through the imagined sex life of the city and the history of eroticism from Cleopatra to Christian Grey, including ancient art, sex toys and lots and lots of dick sculptures. While it may seem completely frivolous to tourists, this rare exhibit goes directly against the religious, political, and cultural climate in PL, making it quite ballsy indeed.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Admission 20/15zł, www.50twarzysexu.pl.

15.02 - 15.03 » ANNA PAZDALSKA SCULPTURE EXHIBIT

Anna Pazdalska was born in Kraków and studied at the Academy of Fine Arts. She has taken part in many exhibits and created the Wincent Witos monument in Rakszawa. This exhibit focuses on her sculptures of the female form in bronze. Beautiful, elegant and delicate, her figures are posed like dancers, or birds taking flight. In fact, her sculptures of women are not dissimilar from her own diary - very moving and lyrical in capturing a passing moment or thought.QB‑2, Palace of the Arts, Pl. Szczepański 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, Admission 10/5zł, www.palacsztuki.krakow.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00.

What’s going on? facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket iyp.me/polandblog

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What’s On SHANTIES 2017 23.02 - 26.02 » SHANTIES 2017

th

36 INTERNATIONAL SAILORS’ SONG FESTIVAL

Cracow 23 – 26 February more information

www.shanties.pl

Projekt realizowany przy wsparciu finansowym Województwa Małopolskiego Projekt jest współfinansowany ze środków Gminy Miejskiej Kraków

24 Kraków In Your Pocket

For 36 years running, Kraków has hosted this salty sea shanty festival with so much success that it has spawned an astounding twenty other shanty festivals across Poland and risen to become not only the most important celebration of maritime music in this country, but the largest in all of Europe (quite an accomplishment for a land-locked city in Central Europe). Attracting salt-creased sea dogs, selkies, and sirens from across the continent, the biggest stars of sea songs will be performing four days of concerts, plus a raft of workshops, photo exhibitions, and other accompanying events. Concerts are held at Żaczek Student Club, (Al. 3 Maja 5, H-3), Radio Kraków Studio S5, (Al. J. Słowackiego 22, I-1), and Kijów.Centrum Cinema (Al. Krasińskiego 34, H-3). Below we list this year’s programme of bloody pirates and sea wenches: THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 23RD 1​ 9:00, Żaczek Student Club: “Ocean of Dreams” Ballads Concert FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24TH​ 12:00, Żaczek Student Club: Children’s Concert by Klang. 18:00, Żaczek Student Club: “The Columbuses of Masuria” Concert featuring Włodzimierz Dębski, Klang, Perły i Łotry, Stara Kuźnia, Grzegorz “Gooroo”Tyszkiewicz and Łukasz Zięba, and Zejman & Garkumpel. 21:00, Radio Kraków Studio S5: Maritime Poetry Concert 22:00, Żaczek Student Club: “Thousands of Miles” Folk Concert featuring Formacja, Nor Folk, Mechanicy Shanty, Mietek Folk, and Slogmakaane (Norway). SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 25TH 12:00, Kijów.Centrum Cinema: “Vistula to the Oceans” Children’s Concert by Zejman & Garkumpel. 14:30, Main Square: collective singing of “The Leaving of Liverpool” (aka “Fare Thee Well, My Own True Love”). 17:00, Kijów.Centrum Cinema: “The Seas and Oceans Roar” Concert featuring Atlantyda, Banana Boat, Perły i Łotry, Stare Dzwony, and Slogmakaane (Norway). 21:00, Kijów.Centrum Cinema: “The Horizon Sways” Concert of Drinking Stories featuring Formacja, Klang, Andrzej Korycki and Dominika Żukowska, Waldemar Mieczkowski and Jacek Ronkiewicz, Aleksander Rzepczyński, Ryczące Dwudziestki (The Roaring Twenties), Marek Szurawski, and Zawisza Czarny Men’s Shanty Choir. SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 26TH 12:00, Kijów.Centrum Cinema: “Under the Sails of Zawisza” Classical Shanties Concert 16:00, Kijów.Centrum Cinema: Finale Concert featuring Atlantyda, Banana Boat, Formacja, Mechanicy Shanty, Stare Dzwony, Grzegorz Tyszkiewicz and Łukasz Zięba, and The Exmouth Shanty Men (Great Britain). QTickets 18-80zł, www.shanties.pl. iyp.me/krakow


What’s On 10.03 - 28.05 » THE POWER OF THE AVANTGARDE

The exhibit “The Power of the Avant-Garde” is a collection of works by classic artists like Fernand Léger, Edvard Munch and Kazimir Malevich, which have never been displayed in Poland before. There are works created in the first decades of the 20th century along with contemporary works that have historic links. Questions concerning the inspirations and meanings of the avant-garde arise. Works by Polish artists like Leon Chwistek and Katarzyna Kobro, who are inspired by the classic avant-garde, will also be on display. Avant-garde works from the beginning of the 20th century are filled with emotions, intellectualism and some socialpolitical themes, along with optimism and the belief of being able to fix the world. Two world wars and the mark of totalitarian Europe changed this approach, which is why pieces from the second half of the 20th century rarely draw from authentic avant-garde, rather focusing on postmodernism or aesthetics.QB‑2, Szołayski House, Pl. Szczepański 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, Ticket prices undecided at press time, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

LIVE MUSIC 26.01 - 30.03 » JAZZ “POD BARANAMI”

Piwnica Pod Baranami, a place where a number of Polish writers had met in the past for their coffee and brews, is now hosting Jazz Concerts on a regular basis, every Thursday from 21:00 Jazz concerts in the Piwnica trace back all the way back to the 60s! Groups like “Beale Street Band,” Janusz Muniak, and Osjan are just some of the artists which have performed here.QB‑3, Piwnica Pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 77, Admission 15-25zł, www.piwnicapodbaranami.pl. 21:00 Every Thursday.

MUSICALS 25.02 18:00 » KAROL. MUSICAL ABOUT THE LIFE OF JOHN PAUL II

“Karol” is a musical based on the life of Karol Wojtyła - the man who would become Pope John Paul II. Full of warmth, emotion and drama, it is the story of a happy boy from Wadowice who wanted to live like his peers, yet history impacted him to make different choices which would fundamentally have an effect on the fate of the world; “Karol” is the story of a man who, while living in extraordinary times, himself became extraordinary. Combining lights, dance, modern music and the unique performances of Polish stars and artists from the Gliwice Musical Theatre, the musical has been acclaimed as one of the best in PL.QA/B‑7, Tauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, Tickets 169-229zł. Available at www. eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

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What’s On INT. CULTURAL CENTRE

16.12 - 26.03 » THE LOGIC OF THE LOCAL: CONTEMPORARY NORWEGIAN AND POLISH DESIGN

The exhibit showcases contemporary design in Poland and Norway, revealing similarities in design trends over the last 15 years in both countries, including the emphasis on sustainable development and the use of everyday language in various techniques. Presenting work by internationally-recognised and awarded designers, the exhibit will also include traditional folk items from the Ethnographic Museum in Kraków and the Trøndelag Folkemuseum in Trondheim, Norway, which serve as an inspiration for shaping new forms and thought in today’s design landscape.QC‑3, International Cultural Centre, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, Admission 12/7zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue, Wed between 11:00 and 12:00 admission 1zł. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, www.mck.krakow.pl.

a ci . k i g lno ś o L ka lo i lsk po sign e ii d k s y e rw esn No ó ł c z p ws

International Cultural Centre Gallery Rynek Główny 25, Kraków Tuesday–Sunday 10.00 a.m.–6 p.m. www.mck.krakow.pl

26 Kraków In Your Pocket

OPERA 24.02, 25.02, 26.02, 03.03, 04.03, 05.03 18:30 » COUNTESS MARITZA

Countess Mariza, an operetta in three acts by Emmerich (Imre) Kálmán, guaranteed success for the Hungarian composer, who became one of the most famous operetta creators of the 20th century. Debuted in 1924, the story is about true love independent from money or social status, and revolves around relationships at the Hungarian manor estate of the title character. Kálmán seduces the audience through Hungarian folklore, folk melodies and gypsy tunes. Many pieces gained popularity from this work, like Marica’s “When the Gypsy Song Cries” or Aria Tassila’s “Play, Gypsy.” The operetta is directed by Paweł Aigner and Tomasz Tokarczyk prepared the music.QE‑2, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, Tickets 28-140zł, www.opera.krakow.pl.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 12.02 18:00 » THE DILLINGER ESCAPE PLAN

The Dillinger Escape Plan is one of America’s most popular and influential mathcore and experimental heavy rock bands. Their music is known for being loud, fast, heavy and technically precise. Formed in 1997, with each album they have gained fans and notoriety, and the intensity of their stage show has only seemed to increase. Known for a live show that is almost incomparable to others, things you can expect at a TDEP gig include the band crowdsurfing, climbing all over the venue, breathing fire and other antics, which once famously included the singer defecating into a bag onstage and throwing it into the crowd. The band released their sixth studio album “Dissociation” in October 2016 with news that they would be taking a hiatus, which was later clarified by the singer as “We’re breaking up.” It appears this is their last tour, so expect them to go out with a bang.QKwadrat Club, ul. Skarżyńskiego 1 (Czyżyny), Tickets 99zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

19.03 18:00 » SYMPHONICA 2: MADE IN POLAND

Get ready to discover, or revive your interest in Polish punk rock, as Filharmonia Futura - a dynamic, multimedia orchestra that incorporates costumes, visual projections, choreography and elaborate set design into their performances - returns to mine the underground hits of the 80s. Since the 2014 premiere of Filharmonia Futura’s original ‘Symphonica’ over 30,000 people have seen the show, which enhanced popular music from past eras with a full orchestra and 3D visuals. This time the show will stay away from the mainstream, instead focussing on punk, metal and underground rock specifically from the 1980s, accompanied by visuals that will create the atmosphere iyp.me/krakow


What’s On of the communist-dominated decade.QH‑3, Kijów. Centrum, Al. Krasińskiego 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 00 33, Tickets 75-115zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

SPECIAL EVENTS 19.03 12:00 » REMEMBRANCE MARCH

Each year this remembrance march commemorates the Cracovian Jews murdered during the Holocaust, all those who perished in the Kraków Ghetto, during its liquidation on the 13th and 14th of March 1943, and in the Płaszów concentration camp. This year, the 74th anniversary of the liquidation of the Jewish Ghetto in Kraków, the event will be held on Sunday, March 19th. At noon an official ceremony will take place at Plac Bohaterów Getta (p.103) - the ghetto’s central public square and place from which deportations took place, before the march route leads towards the site of the former Płaszów concentration camp. Along the way it will stop at the fragment of the original ghetto wall on ul. Lwowska (p.105), and finally end up at the memorial at Płaszów at about 13:15, where Kaddish will be recited for all the victims. A free bus for participants returns to Plac Bohaterów Getta at 13:45.QJ‑4 , Plac Bohaterów Getta.

THEATRE 19.02 18:00 » PHANTOM OF THE OPERETTA

Phantom of the operetta? Yep, the operetta now also has it’s own maniacal spectre. During this new performance by Filharmonia Futura, the operetta phantom will reveal his secrets to the audience, conveying a tale of humour and surprise that blends the fairy tale world with reality. His amusing story will present fragments of operettas like Strauss’ The Gypsy Baron, and Die Fledermaus, with the modern multimedia orchestra’s own twists. As usual, the audience will experience colourful visuals effects and innovative set-pieces, plus bold music.QH‑3, Kijów. Centrum, Al. Krasińskiego 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 00 33, Tickets 70-90zł. Available at www.kupbilecik.pl and Kijów.Centrum, www.filharmoniafutura.pl.

19.02 19:00 » I’LL SELL THE HOUSE IN WHICH I CAN LIVE NO MORE

Come along and experience the magical world of Czech writer Bohumil Hrabal. Inspired by his life, there are tales including birth, baptism, first communion, a wedding and a funeral - all depicted in a light, unpretentious, but grotesque form. True to the KTO style, there are no words and the actors’ bodies, movements and gestures, as well as the music, tell the story.QB‑6, Manggha, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, Tickets 35/25zł, www.teatrkto.pl.

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February - March 2017

27


Restaurants

Zen & the Art of Sushi Madness (p.31).

With the development of the market in Kraków the number of places to eat is now extremely wide, and while the city’s culinary rep is improving all the time, its restaurants are still waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French tyre company. That said, there are more good restaurants to visit in this town than you could possibly fit in one trip, so fear not, you won’t have to eat tyres. While our print guide carries a wide selection of Kraków’s most noteworthy restaurants, there are many, many more listed on our website (krakow.inyourpocket.com), where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve visited. All IYP reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working. Smacznego! SPLURGE Wierzynek (p.53) is Kraków’s oldest and most upscale restaurant, right on the Rynek. Close behind (and nearby), however, is Szara Gęś (p.52), as well as veteran Pod Aniołami (p.50). The sophisticated wine lists and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus (p.34) and Trzy Rybki (p.38) are also in the conversation, while Szara (p.38) - with locales on the market square and in Kazimierz - also never disappoints. CHEAP A Polish milk bar (p.48) is as cheap as you’ll eat anywhere in your life, but for a bit more atmosphere try Smakołyki (p.52). If you’re not a fan of Polish food, Bunkier Cafe (p.42) and Smaki Gruzji (p.32) are both excellent values. 28 Kraków In Your Pocket

LADS Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like a king for pauper prices in Bierhalle (p.33) or Restauracja Sukiennice (p.52), where the food spills off the edges of the plate. The choicest cuts of red meat are in Pimiento (p.45) and Ed Red (p.48), or to literally receive a bib with your food, order the outstanding ribs at Rzeźnia (p.30). FAMILIES Slowly but surely, more and more places in Kraków now have things like changing tables, high chairs, and play corners - look for the Child-Friendly symbol T  at the end of each listing. Tao (p.30) features swinging chairs and cute bunnies, but nothing in town beats Pod Wawelem (p.50) with its huge rumpus room and food your kids will eat. COUPLES Kraków is a marvellous backdrop for romance and you shouldn’t have to search far for ‘the perfect place.’ Make a reservation in ZaKładka (p.31), Pod Nosem (p.50), Bottiglieria 1881 (p.62) or Bianca (p.40) and let the atmosphere do the rest. SPECIAL DIET For vegans, vegetarians and health-conscious foodies, the street of choice in the Old Town is ul. Krupnicza (A-2), where you’ll find Sissi Organic Bistro (p.38), Karma (p.57) and Pod Norenami (p.54), and Veganic (p.55) is also close by at Tytano (p.65); in Kazimierz head to Plac Wolnica (D7), home to Cafe Młynek (p.54) and Nova Krova (p.55). For traditional Polish food that’s assuredly gluten-free, visit Pod Baranem (p.50). iyp.me/krakow


Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

S Take away

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

X Smoking room available

E Live music

W Wi-fi connection

I Fireplace

AMERICAN GRANDE GRILL Contrasting with the inflexible traditionalism of Wierzynek, this fresher effort from the team behind Kraków’s most famous restaurant balances modern styling and cuisine with its medieval setting. The year-round patio garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams is one of the best in town, and a stylish indoor dining area, occasional rock/blues concerts, and live sports on the tele offer extra motivation for a visit. The menu is a simple selection of steaks, salads and burgers, all expertly madeto-order with the kind of service you would expect from the city’s most established restaurateurs.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (27-91zł). T­U­E­G­W HARD ROCK CAFE Kraków’s HRC occupies some of the city’s most hallowed ground next to St. Mary’s Basilica on Rynek Główny. Inside you’ll find an absurdly large staff milling around amidst Elton John’s spectacles and an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish legends T. Love. Featuring a modern interior stacked over three levels, drop in to enjoy southerninfluenced American cuisine - awesome appetisers, side dishes, sandwiches and steaks - plus expertly mixed drinks, all while gazing at a scarf John Lennon once wore.QC‑3, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 11:00 - 23:30; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. (20-90zł). T­6­U­G­W MOO MOO STEAK & BURGER CLUB On first glance this ‘club’ looks exclusive indeed, with runway waitresses, collared clientele and a minimal, modern monochromatic interior more ideal for a romantic date than spreading your face over a beef patty (and vice versa). The menu reveals an array of refined options from salmon to shrimp, with a bigger emphasis on choice steaks than their burgers - which when cut in half could actually pass for two burgers in most places. The reasonable prices and random music playlist make Moo Moo less pretentious than it first appears, and it’s a place we enjoy coming back to.QD‑3, ul. Świętego Krzyża 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97, www.moomoo.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-100zł). U­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants

SUSHI BAR & JAPANESE RESTAURANT

ul. Św. Tomasza 29 +48 12 426 55 55 www.zensushi.pl BEST SUSHI BAR & JAPANESE RESTAURANT IN KRAKOW

ul.Józefińska 4/3 +48 695 666 999 www.taospa.pl

THERAPY

FIRST AND ONLY TEPPANYAKI IN KRAKOW

TEPPANYAKI & SUSHI & THAI FOOD

ul.Józefińska 4 +48 725 88 03 04 www.taogarden.pl

30 Kraków In Your Pocket

RZEŹNIA - RIBS ON FIRE This small ‘meatery’ offers a concise menu of carnivore cravings - tartar, blood pudding, sausage and ribs, with sides of fries and slaw, and a good selection of bottled beers. Though that sounds like something you’d find written on the side of a food truck, this place has more class than that with a red-flecked interior that looks could pass for a Spanish tapas bar in a pinch. Order the ribs (no, really - order the ribs) and you get the entire rack, not a sawn-off section, and we guarantee you’ll be sucking the bones clean. The coleslaw is also the best we’ve had in this cabbage crazy country. Tuck in your bib (they’ll provide you with one) and give this a try. Also in the Old Town at Plac Dominikański 2 (C-4).QD‑6, ul. Bożego Ciała 14, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 96, www.restauracjarzeznia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (19-95zł). U­V ­G ­S ­W

ASIAN HURRY CURRY Though the name suggests a takeaway window or food truck, this surprising slow food franchise has been a hit in Katowice and their Kraków locale features a large, open and appealing interior with multiple terraces and a full menu of Indian/Asian eats. Essentially an encyclopaedia of world curries, choose from over 20 varieties varying in spice quotient and country of origin, plus other signature world dishes like Tom Yum and Beef Rendang, and beers from Thailand, China and Japan. With so much menu to explore and everything super affordable, multiple visits are almost a given, and unlike most curry establishments, rice and papadum actually come included with your meal. QC‑3, ul. Szpitalna 9 (entrance from ul. Św.Tomasza), tel. (+48) 728 42 82 26, www.hurrycurry.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (12-33zł). T­6­U­G­ S­W TAO TEPPANYAKI & MORE One of the most intriguing locales in Podgórze, this smart and stylish Japanese and Thai bistro specialises in teppanyaki - dishes spectacularly prepared by their flashy master chef on the Japanese griddle in the middle of the room. The other big draw is the amazing year-round garden, which invites the after-work drinks crowd, but also caters to kids with swinging seats, a trampoline, and several fluffy rabbits literally hopping about between tables. The expansive, expert menu includes standards such as edamame, dim sum, pad thai, tempura and bottles of sake, as well as their own specialties like the tasty Ramen Burger. All of it is absolutely delicious, though it may not be what your kids want to eat, and the prices do somewhat discourage the entire idea of having them tag along. Sweet, you’ve got that swinging bench all to yourself then.QJ‑4, ul. Józefińska 4, tel. (+48) 725 88 03 04, www.taogarden.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-55zł). 6­U­I­V­G­S­W iyp.me/krakow


Restaurants ZEN RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kraków’s sushi boom is in full stride, and Zen outdoes much of the competition by hitting the authentic Japanese interior dead-on with a first floor sushi canal where customers snare their desired servings as they float by; dishes are colour-coded by cost so you can keep vague tabs on your inflating tab. On the more formal second floor, dine ala carte on traditional floor mats. The menu makes an ironic effort not to pander to purists, but rather create an amalgam of European and Asian ingredients and flavours with dishes like duck marinated in orange and cinnamon served with teriyaki sauce.QD‑3, ul. Św. Tomasza 29, tel. (+48) 12 426 55 55, www.zensushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30-300zł). 6­U­V­G­S­W

La Fontaine

FRENCH LA FONTAINE The courtyard terrace is the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, though the interior of rough hewn stone walls and brick arches has a perfectly pleasing elegance as well when there’s a gale outside. Here delicious French delicacies are served by a well-trained staff who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does the chef, clearly, as he turns out such wonderful dishes as tournedos with potato casserole and a bearnaise, wine, or roquefort sauce. Home to some of the city’s most outstanding cuisine and an excellent wine cellar, it’s easy to understand why this veteran restaurant has received so many awards and remains a mainstay of the local restaurant scene after so many years.QC‑3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (25-69zł). X­W ZAKŁADKA - FOOD & WINE Located in a restored tenement just over the Bernatka footbridge in Podgórze, this thoroughly classy Frenchstyle bistro strikes the perfect balance of modern elegance, exciting upscale cuisine and below market prices to make it outrageously popular. The new menu changes seasonally and tackles French delicacies and regional Polish dishes with equal respect and aplomb. Prices are absolutely pedestrian when one considers the skill of each meal’s preparation and presentation. A perfect date destination, from the moment you step inside Zakładka seemingly everything - from the sharp black and white interior to the excellent food and local Polish wine - becomes an aphrodisiac; make a reservation now.QJ‑4, ul. Józefińska 2 (entrance from ul. Brodzińskiego), tel. (+48) 12 442 74 42, www. zakladkabistro.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:30, Mon 17:00 - 21:30, Thu 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (24-49zł). T­G­W

Full Center – Old Town The best of the french cusine Tel.: +48 12 422 65 64 www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl

ul. Szpitalna 9, 31-024 Kraków tel. 728 428 226 www.facebook.com/hurrycurrykrakow

Curries from all over the world

250+ restaurant reviews online: krakow.inyourpocket.com iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego! (Enjoy your meal!) śniadanie breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment. Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change. 32 Kraków In Your Pocket

ZAZIE BISTRO While no stranger to fine French dining, this casual Kazimierz eatery is actually the closest thing Kraków has to a true Parisian bistro - complete with classic set meals (including an appetiser, main and dessert) for an affordable 29zł, fantastic creme brulee, quiche that you can order by size (from 1/8th to the whole pie) and even escargot. Set over two levels, the ground floor tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk terrace with a wall-length mural of France’s famous phallus, interior streetlights and even a candy-striped roll-out canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks. With the head chef racking up culinary awards, this is a great place to experience outstanding French cuisine without a whiff of snobbery, and an excellent value for your money.QE‑6, ul. Józefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41 08 29, www.zaziebistro. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-45zł). T­6­G­S­W

GEORGIAN SMAKI GRUZJI Slyly tucked away in Kazimierz (presumably where pro-Russian separatists won’t be able to find it), this modest Georgian eatery is actually one of the city’s hidden gems. Enjoy Eurasian dishes like roasted pork and lamb, stuffed grape leaves, Georgian meat dumplings (khinkali), khachapuri, traditional kharcho soup, and baked salmon, plus plenty of Georgian wine for only 8zł/glass, or starting from 38zł/bottle. The menu is admittedly meat-heavy, but - fear not there are also vegan and vegetarian dishes like the eggplant rolls with walnut-garlic puree. Delicious, ridiculously affordable and basically the perfect ethnic food experience, gather some friends together and enjoy your own supra - the Georgian tradition of social feasting.QD‑6, ul. Dietla 33 (entrance from ul. Augustiańska), tel. (+48) 883 43 34 23, www.smakigruzji.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (15-36zł). T­V­G­ S­W

INDIAN INDIA MASALA As the new mainstay now anchoring Mały Rynek, this authentic effort from the same team behind Kraków’s top Indian eatery features popular patio seating and a colourful interior infused with the scent of cardamom from the kitchen and sweet tobacco from the exotic hookah bar in the basement. The name may be India Masala, but the menu represents a wide range of regions across India with delicious dishes well-explained in English and wellpresented in traditional metal bowls. As you might guess, weekday afternoons are the perfect time to enjoy this place with lunch sets of 4 or 5 dishes for 14-30zł served 12:00 - 16:00.QC‑3, Mały Rynek 2-3, tel. (+48) 12 421 47 56, www.indiamasala.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (13-45zł). 6­G­S­W iyp.me/krakow


Restaurants INDUS TANDOOR Kraków’s oldest Indian restaurant, Indus Tandoor essentially set a new, higher standard for the city’s ethnic eateries when it opened way back in 1998. Full of reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns, the slim interior and canopied patio are bursting with colour, and the near constant people filing in and out speaks to the high quality of the food, prepared by Indian chefs. Try the business lunch specials (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00) for a fantastic value; orders placed Mon-Thu after 16:00 receive a free appetiser. QC‑2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 82, www.indus.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-45zł). G­S­W

THE BEST INDIAN CUISINE IN TOWN

INTERNATIONAL

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रा त का स्वा

D IA

LA

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App

Ul. Sławkowska 13-15, phone: 012 4232282, www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00

IN

BIERHALLE This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name, bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Kraków’s Mały Rynek. At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering 3 different ales most commonly ordered by the litre, but you can also go gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly franchise menu of German bratwurst, breaded cutlets and dumplings has been recently expanded and improved by star chef Kurt Scheller (and his stellar moustache), all while staying affordable, and open late as well. A helpful multilingual menu, nice service, and TVs streaming sports in every room make it a lads magnet, but we found Kraków’s locale to be less rowdy and more refined than expected. This is one of those happy cases where success seems to have actually improved the brand. QC‑3, Mały Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 517 38 26 42, www. bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 24:00. (10-60zł). T­U ­G ­S ­W

We invite you to enjoy our original Indian dishes. Catering service available.

ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI An extension of the legendary bar of the same name, Alchemia od Kuchni serves a spot-on menu of sit-down street food, burgers, vegetarian eats and eclectic entrees including fish pie, falafel, curries and more. Open late and also open early, everything we’ve tried has been great, essentially making od Kuchni our favourite thing about Alchemia these days. The simple, white tile and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of NYC or Copenhagen’s meatpacking districts, the prices won’t divest you of your beer money, and the service is light years ahead of the bar next door. The team behind this place obviously cares, rather than just cashing in on the location and crowds; cheers to that.QD‑6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882 04 42 99, www.odkuchni.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. (10-39zł). G­S­W

M AS A

Mały Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Krakow

reservations +48 12 4214756, mail: manager@indiamasala.pl

www.indiamasala.pl

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Restaurants THE OBWARZANEK

Any culinary journey through Kraków is likely to start with the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds, obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every other street corner in Kraków, and are so inescapable they’ve become an unofficial symbol of the city. Known as the Cracovian bagel, the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish word for ‘par-boiled’ and therefore differs slightly from the bagel, in addition to being its internationally popular counterpart’s predecessor. Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are complex, confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that it was invented by Kraków Jews after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the production of baked goods to the Kraków Bakers Guild. First written mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile dates back to 1394, meaning that it’s been a daily sight on Kraków’s market square for over 600 years. Though increased tourism in recent years has jacked the price of an obwarzanek up to around 1.50zł (sacrilege!), you’ll still see countless people on the go munching these pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying an obwarzanek leaves a lot up to chance. Cracovian bakers produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer, despite the fact that on leaving the oven the baked goods have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, finding a fresh one is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages, obwarzanki also feed Kraków’s entire pigeon population when in the evenings the city’s 170-180 obwarzanki carts essentially become bird-food vendors. 34 Kraków In Your Pocket

BUNKIER CAFE This veteran crossover venue - essentially an enormous year-round terrace on the Planty - continues to be the same perfect place for an early morning paper read, afternoon coffee and cigarette, after-work drink, casual first date, conversational English lesson, or people-watching piwo that it has been since we first published this guide. In addition to good coffee and cakes, however, Bunkier has gone bistro and now offers some of the best budget eats in the area. Drop in for breakfast until 12:00, after which tuck in to tasty burgers, bagel sandwiches, a yummy pulled pork sandwich, fish and chips, pasta, thin-crust pizza, salads and more. As a result, we spend more time there now than ever before.QB‑2, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 24:00. (15-30zł). 6­X­W COPERNICUS Inside one of Kraków’s most exclusive hotels you’ll find one of its most exclusive restaurants, with high-class service inside an elegant gothic interior that features original frescoes. Copernicus is enthusiastically awarded each year, and its gourmet cuisine has been enjoyed by Nobel Prize winners (Miłosz, Szymborska) and political dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl) alike. The menu changes every month and is kept simple by Chef Marcin Filipkiewicz who offers a tasting menu of amazing seasonal flavours; choose between 5 (180zł), 7 (240zł) or 12 courses (350zł). At Copernicus you get what you pay for, making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.QC‑5, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.copernicus.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. T­G­S­W ENOTEKA PERGAMIN The latest effort from Pergamin combines everything needed for any occasion into one location. On the ground floor it’s an affordable family bistro where the chefs are at work behind a long deli counter of local delicacies used to create delicious cheese and meat plates, brick-fired pizzas, pastas and fresh seafood dishes. Meanwhile, the upscale cellar features its own dining card and three tasting menus, plus a classy cigar room and cosy wine and cocktail bar. With a huge wine cellar, not only can the sommelier recommend the perfect bottle for your meal, but the bartender is one of the best mixed-drink men in town. Also functioning as a delicatessen and wine shop, Enoteka Pergamin is basically whatever you want it to be, but also one of the few places we know where you can really splash out on a nice bottle of wine and still enjoy an affordable meal.QC‑4, ul. Grodzka 39, tel. (+48) 797 70 55 15, www.enotekapergamin.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (17-199zł). X­S­W INDUSTRIAL Conceptually representative of the neighbourhood (alongside MOCAK and Schindler’s Factory) with its stylish post-industrial design and focus on art, this unique and enormous venue is also one of the most exclusive addresses in town. With a gleaming open kitchen and ceilings high enough to accommodate tall potted trees and the modern iyp.me/krakow


Restaurants art which literally hangs above the tables, the interior design is award-worthy. The menu changes every three months, offering truly exotic burgers and pasta dishes, as well as gorgeously-presented upmarket entrees like tuna steak and lamb shoulder. With a large garden, plenty of space and ambience to spare, Industrial is perfect for special occasions and large events, but whether it lures the area’s tourists remains to be seen.QK‑4, ul. Lipowa 4A, tel. (+48) 12 263 86 26, www.restoindustrial.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (35-71zł). T­6­G­S­W NEW KARAKTER Whatever the magic ingredient is for a successful restaurant, there’s little doubt that Karakter has it. The retro modern interior evoking Miro and Leger, possesses a seemingly effortless panache and undeniable appeal. The authorial menu is both daring and ambitious with horsemeat tartar, a fois gras miniburger, mussels prepared 8 different ways and most main dishes sounding like several, for example ‘sweetbreads, ravioli with peas and mint, chanterel mushrooms, and beef cheek.’ Foodies, especially those with buttery-sweet tastes, will be in heaven, though we found some of these inventions are a bit too convoluted. Ideal for a date with wine, the casually dressed staff will assist you with choosing, but make sure you’ve made a reservation if you want a table at this buzzy, ambitious restaurant.QD‑5, ul. Brzozowa 17, tel. (+48) 795 818 123. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (21-43zł). 6­G­W MIĘDZYMIASTOWA Gin lovers, beware - this is your lair. Aimed at Kraków’s growing upper-middle class, MM flaunts a now-familiar post-industrial upscale-urban interior with huge factory windows, two bars and an emphasis on pricey gin mixers and wine. There’s also a metropolitan menu of eats everything from gourmet breakfasts to pizza and pasta to burgers and beef steak. Although the menu is overpriced and lacks focus, however, the chefs clearly know what they’re doing; our duck breast was delicious (much better than our smoothie, in fact). An attractive after-work drinks destination for Kraków’s young professionals, unless you’re a gin devotee, however, you’ll actually be here for the food. QA‑2, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/7A, tel. (+48) 577 30 44 50, www.miastowa.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (21-75zł). T­6­G­S­W NEW PINAKOTEKA Pinakoteka narrows its broad concept of ‘food, music, gallery’ to a paucity of options, which it executes rather well. Their menu includes only four entrees, one of which is the ‘Pinakoteka burger,’ which - heart-disease-be-damned - we could happily eat every day; the wine and beer lists are adept, but equally sparse. As for live music, bands and DJs occupy a small space in the back 2-3 times per week in the evening for a range of chillout beats and acoustic sounds. Art openings take place every two weeks, but their gallery space isn’t a particularly prominent feature of the iyp.me/polandblog

Are you bored with the Old Town and tourist attractions typical of Krakow? Visit a new place - TYTANO Old Tobacco Factory, a complex of pubs, bars and cafes at ul. Dolnych Mlynow 10 which is situated only 500 m from the Main Square. You will find there Międzymiastowa [Intercity] - a restaurant, bar and a meeting place which takes inspiration from cities such as Los Angeles, New York, Berlin or Barcelona. You will be impressed with its simplistic interior and a mixture of modernity and original industrial ele-. ments. Restaurant offers not only classic meals but also original recipes of the chef [try manzo e funghi, veal conchiglioni, duck chef]. Bar serves many unique types of alcohols and the best gin and tonic in Krakow (dosen or so variations!). Special offers are also worthy of note - breakfast for 1 zloty when buying co coffee during the week, free coffee when buying breakfast during the weekend or two cocktails or pizzas for the price of one.

Międzymiastowa is one of the hottest places in Krakow, so if you want to feel the atmosphere of the city, you must visit it!

MIĘDZYMIASTOWA DOLNYCH MŁYNÓW 10 / 7A www.facebook.com/miedzymiastowakrakow biuro@miastowa.com +48 577304450

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Restaurants QUICK EATS Here we list some local alternatives to the fast food franchises you might be familiar with from back home (you’ll have to find your ‘Golden Arches’ on your own). Note that Kazimierz is a Mecca for fast street food, with zapiekanki dispensed daily from Plac Nowy (D-6), the famous sausage stand at Hala Targowa (p.54), and the food truck movement finding its home on Skwer Judah and at Dajwór 21 (E-6, p.40). For more fast dining options, get adventurous by visiting a local milk bar (p.48) or Polish Snacks & Shots bar (p.42). CHIMERA SALAD BAR Sealed off from the elements, this gorgeous courtyard buffet overflows with ambience year round. Full of potted plants, natural sunlight and surrealistic murals, Chimera’s popular salad bar may be the most pleasant budget dining environment in town. Overwhelmingly vegetarian, while it might not be the best food in town, it is fast, cheap and exceedingly easy for foreigners - simply say ‘proszę’ and point at your pick of the salads, quiche, stuffed vegetables and more. Recommended.QB‑3, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12 12, www.chimera.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (14-25zł). 6­G­S­W NEW MEAT & GO Hidden in a corner of Tytano, this self-described ‘meat bar’ quickly serves the most tender and delicious deli cuts we’ve tasted anywhere. Their signature porchetta is a revelation, but the menu extends across a dozen other miracles including pulled pork, jerk pork, pastrami and cured beef - ensuring many salivating return visits. Despite the somewhat banal name, Meat & Go doesn’t come off as some kind of caveman lifestyle club, but rather a humble family business with a simple interior of big communal tables with warm orbs of light hanging over them. If you think a sandwich isn’t worth 20+ PLN, this place will change your mind.QA‑2, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10. Open 16:00 - 23:00; Fri, Sat 16:00 - 24:00; Sun 16:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. (20-29zł). 6­G­W NEW PIZZERIA VICENTI For whatever reason, pizza-by-the-slice is a rare thing in Kraków, making this proper hole-in-the-wall next to Bunkier Sztuki even more of a revelation. Here the slices are square, sized to your specifications, and then, oddly enough, priced by weight (3.50zł/100g). We don’t know if that’s how they do it in Rome, but their claim to be authentic Roman-style pizza seems legit on all other accounts, from the top-notch ingredients to the delicious sauce and crust. There are plenty of vegetarian and cheeseless vegan options, and good, cheap coffee. With only a few tables to speak of, most of their trade is to-go, and go there we do, several times per week.QB-3, ul. Szewska 27tel. (+48) 500 54 80 55. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. ­G­S 36 Kraków In Your Pocket

interior; it’s still all palettes, metal and mesh, but Pinakoteka makes itself more cosy than its Tytano neighbours thanks to domestic details like small plants, pillows, candles, boardgames and books. While it doesn’t particularly stand out from the ever-increasing crowd, will it survive? We think so.QA‑2, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 514 71 12 27. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (10-38zł). T­6­E­G­S­W PINO Though it’s a bit ironic (if not outright silly) to take a historic Old Town townhouse and make it look like a warehouse with a modern post-industrial interior, such are the today’s trends, and PINO actually pulls it off beautifully. Full of i-beams, wrought iron and exposed brick - and featuring a mezzanine level, open kitchen, pizza oven and seasonal patio dining - the space is exceedingly well-designed and wonderful for casual meetings, family dinners, or afterwork cocktails and beers. The range of the menu covers pizza (recommended), pasta, burgers, seafood, ribs and steaks, you name it - and everything is made on-site, from the burger buns to the ice cream. Affordable and delicious, the service is also great, making this a place worth trying in the Old Town.QB‑3, ul. Szczepańska 4, tel. (+48) 609 01 50 16, www.restauracjapino.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (28-69zł). G­W PLAC NOWY 1 Located in a new building buttressing Plac Nowy, this project has won over its initial detractors by adapting to its surroundings with elan, while subtly outclassing them. With a spacious modern interior full of natural light and plant life, patrons have their choice between the highceilinged ground floor restaurant, or the new second floor sushi and tapas restaurant; between them lies a club, and there’s even bowling in the basement. The main menu wanders across cuisines to follow recent food trends (fancy burgers, tempura), but includes uniquely modern takes on Polish classics as well, and they put a big emphasis on craft beer, offering regional beer tasting sets. Earning wide approval, this is arguably the nicest place to eat on Plac Nowy.QD‑6, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 00, www. placnowy1.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 02:00. (26-65zł). T­U­G­S­W SCANDALE ROYAL Scandale Royal successfully skirts the line between lounge, cafe and bistro by being one of the most stylish places to be all day and night. In more shades of violet than we knew possible, it nonetheless stays well-lit and inviting thanks to wall-length windows and a massive chandelier bisecting the two floors like a fragile fire-pole. On the card you’ll find salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste, with proper breakfast in the mornings and an after 22:00 menu (featuring tapas) late night, when everything inside from the cushions to the clientele looks edible.QB‑2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale. pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (24-72zł). T­X­S­W iyp.me/krakow


Restaurants SISSI ORGANIC BISTRO This wonderful restaurant emphasises healthy eating and organic ingredients (including their own jams, locallysourced meat, and their own fresh-baked bread) to create exquisite fusion dishes that change regularly. Complemented by choice bottled beers and an excellent wine selection, there’s really nothing we can’t recommend from the stellar soups to the unique sandwiches, and their homemade ice cream is out-of-this-world. The pleasing interior of blonde woods includes a lovely seasonal garden, the staff exude confident professionalism, and the prices are curiously low for such an elegant experience. Each time we’ve visited we’ve witnessed other patrons literally gushing at their tables over what a pleasant surprise this place is.QB‑2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 602 23 45 55, www.sissibistro.pl. Open 09:00 22:00. (9-43zł). 6­I­V­G­S­W SZARA Enviably located right on the market square, Szara’s reputation as one of the best restaurants in town hasn’t wavered over the years and if you’re looking for a place to impress guests or treat yourself to a special ‘last night in town meal,’ this is a sure bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling arches, crisp linen and outstanding service create an atmosphere of complete elegance, but Szara manages to avoid the stuffiness suffered by other venues of this ilk. Case in point: their modern and casual bar just next door is a smart place to start the day (breakfast served 08:0012:00), or enjoy a cocktail in the evening.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69, www.szara.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (34-85zł). U­G­S­W SZARA KAZIMIERZ Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved local legend status just as quickly. What makes it so special is not the convenient location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple, affordable and very cheerful, all of Kraków should be like this.QE‑6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, www.szarakazimierz. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (24-73zł). G­S­W TRADYCYJA Though somewhat haunted by the spectres of past incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner goes largely unused), there’s no need to mess with this historic market square locale, which oddly blends old Polish aristocracy with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted timber ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier (which we love for just that reason). Like the interior, the simple menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to have collected the highlights of previous kitchens, but the results cover for the sometimes uneven service, and the prices are well within reason. Keep an ear out for semi-frequent live folk music and dance performances.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16, www.tradycyja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (21-62zł). T­U­I­E­G­W 38 Kraków In Your Pocket

TRZY RYBKI Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring, balancing modern style with the expertly preserved details of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu changes like the seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients. Favoured by highflyers and local business honchos who have been regulars for years, this is a Kraków gem.QC‑2, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Hotel Stary), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (85-99zł). 6­U­G­S­W VANILLA SKY The flagship restaurant of Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky is one of the city’s only restaurants to use only certified organic ingredients, and you’ll be happily commiting to the eco-craze once you see the menu of tantalising dishes like ‘Duck breast with mashed potato balls, red cabbage and plum sauce.’ Set in the centre of a spacious dining room on the hotel’s third floor, the well-dressed tables circle a gorgeous grand piano on which evening concerts are performed Wed-Sat, as well as Sunday afternoons.QH‑4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (24-59zł). T­U­E­G­S­W ZENIT Zenit’s bar and kitchen seem to be in competition with each other to see which can establish itself as the main draw of this all-around excellent venue. This is the place in Kazimierz for a morning cocktail - the drinks are made using homemade syrups and top shelf liquor, and the expert barmen love a new challenge. The breakfast menu (served 09:00 - 13:00), meanwhile, is phenomenal, featuring such goodies as their waffle with mint cream cheese, smoked salmon and a poached egg. The regular menu shifts with the seasons and is no less amazing, the prices are unfairly low considering the quality, and it all comes with great service from waiters who are actually invested enough in your dining experience to sometimes even convince you to change your order. Filled with framed art and gold paint, that the space feels a bit like a 70s hotel lobby bar isn’t even a concern. Are we gushing? We’re gushing.QD‑6, ul. Miodowa 19, tel. (+48) 602 69 19 96. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (16-39zł). T­6­G­S­W

ITALIAN AMARONE Upmarket Italian food served in an elegant setting to a discerning audience - all of whom appear to know exactly what they are ordering and how it should be prepared. The pressure is on, but the Amarone team comes through every time and the clients keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread (baked daily), homemade pasta and authentic ingredients straight from Italy in an exclusive atmosphere made Mediterranean via plenty of natural light and potted plants. Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00 offer a fantastic five-course tasting menu for only 50zł.QC‑2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (49-65zł). T­6­U­E­G­W iyp.me/krakow


Restaurants

Classy budget dining, right in the centre. Krakow In Your Pocket

Amazing place... excellent pastas, great service, just delicious!!! krakow.inyourpocket.com

iyp.me/polandblog

PIZZA, PASTA E MAGIA

Kraków, Rynek G³ówny 10 tel. +48 12 422 74 60 www.weselerestauracja.pl

Kraków ul. Kanonicza 7 tel. +48 12 430 22 32 www.lacampana.pl February - March 2017

39


Restaurants FOOD TRUCKS

JUDAH SQUARE FOOD TRUCK PARK Food trucks are the latest food fad in PL, and Kazimierz’s Skwer Judah - so named after the massive street mural that adorns it - provides parking for this culinary trend. With beach chairs, benches and palettes placed all over this concrete pitch, you won’t find a cooler place to catch some quick grub. Tenants change often, but reliable residents include Frytki Belgijskie (Belgianstyle fries), Andrus Food Truck (serving maczanka - the Cracovian pulled pork sandwich) and Chimney Cake Bakery. Opening hours and availability vary with each, but most are open roughly 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00 (note that there are fewer venues open on Monday).QE‑6, Skwer Judah, ul. Św Wawrzyńca 16. DAJWÓR 21 FOOD TRUCK PARK Though lacking some of the size and scenesters of Skwer Judah, this gravel lot for food trucks has a similar vibe, and its success is secure thanks to a tourist-friendly location across from Galicia Jewish Museum. Most of the food trucks here do lunch elsewhere, so note the later opening time. On our last visit we found Calavera Mexican Grill (recommended), Gruzja Na Kółkach (Georgian), wraps, salads, French fries, pizza, zapiekanki and frozen yoghurt. There’s also the Armon Bar in the back of the lot, which basically uses the space as its beer garden.QE‑6, ul. Dajwór 21. Open 15:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. STREAT SLOW FOOD It may seem ironic, but we actually view Kraków’s food truck fad as further evidence of the city’s positive culinary progress and evolution. What is ironic is that the Streat Slow Food truck isn’t actually located on the street, and it doesn’t travel anywhere, except to and from its discreet gravel lot in Kazimierz, just one street removed from Plac Nowy. This sedentary and solitary set-up certainly has its advantages, with the groovy little patio of pallets and barrels for tables and chairs creating quite the hangout for all the hipsters eagerly awaiting a tasty burger served up fast by the two friendly faces behind the food hatch. Their specialty is the ‘Nacho Man’ burger (23zł), and they have a second truck parked near the river at ul. Kościuszki 1 (A-5).QE‑6, ul. Kupa 10, tel. (+48) 882 97 26 30. Open 15:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (15-23zł). N­G­S 40 Kraków In Your Pocket

BIANCA This small Italian bistro next to St. Mary’s Basilica comes preceded by a big reputation and strong pedigree courtesy of the local dining dynasty behind La Campana and Wesele. No surprise then that our scallops were delicious, and though the side dishes (order one) are almost as large as the pasta dishes, the value is still incredible. Close scrutiny of the relaxed, prevalently white (go figure) interior reveals a high level of perfectionism in each element (don’t fail to notice the hand-painted ceiling), but wisely leaves big impressions to the kitchen situated in full view at the end of the intimate room, where the professionalism of the chefs is on full display.QC‑3, Pl. Mariacki 2, tel. (+48) 782 29 77 15, www.biancaristorante.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (2560zł). G­W BOSCAIOLA With pedigree and another winning design job from the team behind the popular Mamma Mia, this surprisingly upscale Italian eatery on bustling Szewska Street boasts a stylish interior full of lovely timber and white ceramic fittings, with large windows that bring a bit of sunshine and street theatre to the front tables; downstairs is a beautiful cellar full of wine bottles and wire-brushed brick and stone. The menu is a by-now familiar array of pizzas and pastas, but there’s no skimping on the quality or quantity of ingredients - only on the total of the bill at the end. Classy budget dining, right in the centre.QB‑3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 12 426 41 27, www.boscaiola.eu. Open 11:00 23:00. (15-63zł). T­U­G­S­W NEW FIORENTINA RISTORANTE PIZZERIA Located on a less hectic stretch of ul. Grodzka, this spacious Italian restaurant boasts an outstanding interior that nicely balances rustic touches like exposed bricks and stripped wood panels, with gleaming silver lamp fixtures and mirrors. With an eclectic assortment of chairs at each table and Elvis and Sinatra crooning overhead, Fiorentina comes off as comfortably casual despite highly professional service and exquisite food from the team at work in the open kitchen. The menu includes perfect wood-fired thin-crust pizzas, ravioli with wild boar, a delicious tuna tartar, and enticing entrees like cheeks of monkfish with mashed corn, black lentils and sweetbreads. A fine choice for a relaxing and memorable meal near Wawel.QC‑5, ul. Grodzka 63, tel. (+48) 12 426 46 08, www.fiorentina.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-300zł). T­U­G­W INVITO PIZZA & PASTA The concept here is as simple as the food: a stylish interior with a comfortable atmosphere in which to enjoy good company and affordable food (two-course meals for as little as 16.90zł, pizza of the day 13.90zł). The decor nicely balances touchstones of a casual, rustic trattoria with the elegance of numerous wine racks and classic black and white Belle Epoque photos, thereby outshining the menu which is little more than a concise list of budget pizzas and do-it-at-home pasta dishes that come out of the kitchen iyp.me/krakow


Restaurants

Food is amazing like in Italy, sometimes even better. Thomas by tripadvisor.com

I would recommend to anyone wanting beautiful Italian food. Elaine by tripadvisor.com

“Ci voglio ritornare!” massi1960 by

“Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten a better pizza.” Tadeusz Płatek by

iyp.me/polandblog

Kraków Rynek G³ówny 26 tel. +48 12 430 64 58 www.lagrandemamma.pl

ul. Karmelicka 14, Kraków Phone +48 12 430 04 92 www.mammamia.net.pl English and Italian menu available.

February - March 2017

41


Restaurants POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS

Photo by Karol Grzenia

A very popular Polish phenomenon is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), these trendy dives cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of Soviet-era bar food, and drinks at half the usual price. Much like an all-night milk bar with a liquor license, Zakąski Przekąski bars are a great place to keep the party going and meet the city’s strangest characters. AMBASADA ŚLEDZIA There’s a vodka and śledź bar on seemingly every corner in Kraków these days, and we’re gonna go ahead and blame Ambasada Śledzia for this fishy fad. They were first, and if we’re judging by food, they’re also the best. In case you’re wondering, pickled herring (śledź) is a ‘delicacy’ in these parts in the same way that vodka is local parlance for ‘medicine.’ The two go great together and for 12zł it’s a cheap fling with foreign culinary culture. Though the primary ‘Herring Embassy’ now closes at midnight, the all-night shenanigans that once characterised this cult hipster haven have simply moved down the street to ul. Stolarska 5 (‘Śledź u Fryzjera,’ open 10:00 - 05:00).QC‑3, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel. (+48) 662 56 94 60. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. G­W PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA Well-positioned on Doubting Thomas Lane, Pijalnia’s around the clock crowds make it hard to miss. Flooded inside and out with students and street urchins, Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried and trendy formula: offer 4zł drinks and a small 8zł menu of traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs that conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and ostentation of the city’s nightlife. Did we get that right? Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnia’s faithful have us in the fold for being one of the city’s most fun destinations any time of day or night, and for making vodka blindness cool again. Finally! Also at ul. Floriańska 34 (C-2), ul. Szewska 20 (B-3) and Pl. Nowy 7 (D-6).QC‑3, ul. Św. Jana 3-5 (entrance from ul. Św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80 75. Open 24hrs. N­G­W 42 Kraków In Your Pocket

quickly. With cute students on the orders, live football action on the big screens, queens Nina Simone and E. Badu on the stereo and low totals on the bill at the end, there’s really nothing to disagree with here.QD‑3, ul. Św. Tomasza 33, tel. (+48) 12 421 30 92, www.invitopizza. pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (11-35zł). T­U­G­S­W LA CAMPANA TRATTORIA Planted on picturesque Kanonicza Street, in fair weather La Campana Trattoria is worth visiting just to relax in the gorgeous ivy-green garden and cobbled patio; in winter, retreat to the romantic cellars and dream of better weather. From the same tried and true team behind Kogel Mogel and Wesele - two of our favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the pasta and risotto are as good as you’d expect, and the atmosphere is tough to beat.QC‑4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-65zł). T­E­G­S­W LA GRANDE MAMMA Located on the corner of the market square, upscale Italian dining is a treat here, with an ambience ideal for romantic trysts over wine and Brodetto (brothy fish stew), or more casual meetings consecrated with delicious pizzas and pasta. In addition to outstanding food and service, interior design is another of their fortes, and the stripped wood and mirrored tiles employed here give a fresh finish to their successfully established style. As usual, acute attention is paid to every detail, and the payoff is more than worth the figure on the bill at the end.QB‑3, Rynek Główny 26, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 58, www.lagrandemamma.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-60zł). T­G­S­W MAMMA MIA Dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven, pizzas are the pride of this place, but the plethora of home-made pastas and other Italian standards prove Mamma Mia is more than just a one trick pony. The interior of clever lighting and exposed bricks makes a cool backdrop for casual dining, and the army of regulars is testament to Mamma Mia’s venerated reputation.QB‑2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12 422 28 68, www.mammamia.net.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (14-47zł). U­G­S­W NOLIO Nolio makes authentic wood-fired Neopolitan pizza in strict accordance with Napoletana ingredients (water buffalo mozzarella, pistachios from the foot of Mt. Etna) and technique (dough sits for 8hrs and is fired for 1min). The interior is black (like the inside of their oven) with blond wood furnishings, and the menu is minimal, offering six types of homemade pasta and a concise choice of pizzas; we recommend the ‘Mezze Luna’ - half pizza, half calzone. Absolutely packed from the first moment it opened, is this really the best pizza in town? We believe it is.QD‑7, ul. Krakowska 27, tel. (+48) 12 346 24 49, www.nolio.pl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (17-35zł). T­6­G­S iyp.me/krakow


2 0 1 6

POD RÓŻĄ RESTAURANT 14 Floriańska Street, Krakow

MODERN POLISH CUISINE

www.likusrestauracje.pl

3 RYBKI RESTAURANT 5 Szczepańska Street, Krakow

RISTORANTE AMARONE 14 Floriańska Street, Krakow (entrance from Św. Tomasza Street)

COPERNICUS RESTAURANT 16 Kanonicza Street, Krakow


Restaurants JEWISH

PĄCZKI

ARIEL You’ll hear mixed reports about Ariel; while our last visit was underwhelming, we’ve met many who extol the virtues of this veteran restaurant’s varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated in a charmingly cluttered style. The live klezmer music is a popular draw and quintessential tourist experience, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being charged (25zł) to listen to it. Performances take place daily and reservations are recommended.QE‑6, ul. Szeroka 1718, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20, www.ariel-krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:30. (19-78zł). 6­E­S­W Flickr user Mel Sharlene CC BY-SA 2.0

Pressing on in our semi-encyclopedic review of Polish cuisine brings us to pączki (singular = pączek). These traditional round deep-fried doughnuts have been known in PL since the Middle Ages, earning the status of the nation’s number one pastry. Pączki are typically filled with confiture (rose jam or other marmalades), glazed with sugar and sometimes topped with a few pieces of candied orange peel. Similar to American jelly doughnuts, the main difference is American doughnuts’ penchant for squirting the eater with disgusting jelly and Poland’s conservative tendencies ensuring there is only a drop of marmalade in the centre somewhere, which an elaborate game could be made around trying to find. So beloved are pączki in Poland that they even have their own holiday. Like other Catholic countries that celebrate the last day before the fasting season of Lent begins, Poland has its own version of the French Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday), known locally as Tłusty Czwartek, or Fat Thursday. With Lent forbidding sweets and treats, Fat Thursday is a similar celebration of gluttonous indulgence as in other countries, but with the date bungled, and instead of parading and partying the Poles queue up in lines that sometimes stretch around the corner (a separate Polish tradition) in order to purchase pączki from the local cukiernia, or bakery. This year Fat Thursday falls on February 23rd, but pączki can be purchased any day of the year. GORĄCE PĄCZKI Purveying ‘Hot Doughnuts’ (as the name translates) every day of the year, this sidewalk hatch on the Old Town’s popular Szewska Street offers about a dozen different flavours of marmalade filling, including traditional rose jam, chocolate-cherry, raspberry, chocolate pudding, sweet cheese and more. Though the prices are a bit rich at 3zł each, this place knows what it’s doing and you simply won’t find a better, fresher pastry. When it comes to trying local foods, this is one you can easily and joyfully cross off your list. QB‑3, ul. Szewska 25, tel. (+48) 791 55 55 88. Open 10:00 - 22:00. N­S 44 Kraków In Your Pocket

DAWNO TEMU NA KAZIMIERZU From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row of early 20th century trade shops and is decorated with awnings relating to the area’s Jewish heritage. Things are no less colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing machines and carpenters’ work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old Kazimierz spirit, and a must-visit for those tracing the district’s past, enjoy live klezmer, folk or ethnic music every evening except Saturdays (check their FB page for details).QE‑6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.dawnotemu. nakazimierzu.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:30. (19-49zł). 6­U­ E­G­S­W KLEZMER HOIS Located in an old former mikveh - a ritual Jewish bath house - on ul. Szeroka, this is one of Kazimierz’s most well-established restaurants, and a portal into the dusty sepia days of pre-war Poland. Serving traditional Jewish Galician dishes from the 19th century, the restaurant generally follows kosher rules, though there’s no rabbinical supervision. Incredibly popular klezmer concerts (29zł) take place each evening during dinner at 20:00 - keeping the crowds amused and the wine flowing.QE‑6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Open 07:00 22:00. (19-59zł). U­E­G­S­W

LATIN AMERICAN MANZANA Manzana’s ‘New Latin’ concept cuisine consists of meat and fish dishes alongside reinvented Mexican classics (the massive burritos can be prepared a number of ways) served in a chic cantina interior of dark, glossy colours, an open kitchen and low-level Latin music. Though the prices aim a bit high, the service and atmosphere are comfortably relaxed, making Manzana the kind of place you’d want to frequent often. With daily lunch specials, great food, and the largest selection of tequilas in town...you know, we’re really quite fond of this place.QJ‑4, ul. Krakusa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22 77, www.manzanarestaurant.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (19-83zł). T­G­S­W iyp.me/krakow


Restaurants PIMIENTO Behind the stunning gloss and sheen of Pimiento, this sexy upscale Argentine steakhouse on the market square is all about meat - big unapologetic hunks of it. Boasting arguably the best steaks in town, Pimiento gets all their meat straight from Argentina, so if you’ve had one too many Polish cutlets and want a proper steak, head here. Prices appear steep until you remember how much a good steak costs wherever you last had one, and a selection of South American wines wash it down. Also at ul. Stolarska 13 (C-3), and in Kazimierz at ul. Józefa 26 (E-6).QE‑6, Rynek Główny 30, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 85, www.pimiento.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (45-115zł). G­S­W

MIDDLE EASTERN HAMSA In a district whose dining establishments still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past, here’s a restaurant free of nostalgic p​ re-war décor and wooden roof fiddlers, where ‘Jewish cuisine’ doesn’t mean traditional East European fare. Making a bold impression simply by being bright, modern and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties in a casual environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like the humus, babaganoush, labnah and muhammarah (our recommended choice), but are also beautifully presented in hand-painted dish ware. Fairly-priced and generally a breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight.QE‑6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.hamsa.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 23:00. (30-60zł). T­6­G­S­W WHITE CAMEL This simple Israeli restaurant - with its modest decor, warm hospitality and slightly grating Arabic music - captures what we now imagine it must be like to dine in a small eatery in actual Galilee. Ironically, the most exciting thing about White Camel isn’t what you order, but the numerous complimentary side dishes (including delicious falafel and hummus) that accompany each entree. Choose from a variety of lamb and chicken dishes, kofta and fresh fish; we went with ‘kofta with tomato’ and ended up with exactly 9(!) dishes on the table - and that’s not including the beautiful brass finjan and coffee saucers. It’s quite amazing to be dining alone and have the entire table laid out for a feast. An experience clearly designed for hours of feeding, reserve some space in your schedule and your stomach. QJ‑4, ul. Wawrzyńca 24, tel. (+48) 12 356 92 79, www. whitecamel.eu. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 23:00. (19-57zł). T­U­G­S­W

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White Camel Restaurant Real taste of Galilee New level of service Original food from the Holy Land Humus, falafel and many side dishes are served for free with main course

Restauracja White Camel ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 24 31-060 Kraków +48 12 356 92 79 whitecamel.restaurant@gmail.com February - March 2017

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Polish Food Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost uniformly off-white in colour. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish restaurant or milk bar (see p.48) in town. Smacznego!

NALEŚNIKI The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in any dodgy Polish dining establishment.

BIGOS

PIEROGI Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere in the city. PLACKI These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

Though there is no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test. GOŁĄBKI Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend quinn.anya, www.flickr.com CC BY-SA 2.0. claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal ever since. GOLONKA

© gkrphoto, AdobeStock

Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman.

ZAPIEKANKA The ultimate Cracovian drunk food. Order one at any train station in PL and you’ll get half a stale baguette covered with mushrooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and squirted with ketchup. © robert6666 - dollarphotoclub Underwhelming to say the least, however the vendors of Kazimierz’s Plac Nowy (D-6) have made a true art out of the ‘Polish pizza.’ With endless add-ons (including salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple, feta – you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become standard procedure at this point. Because of their popularity you’ll witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 8-10zł it’s a great value and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking. To leave town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Kraków. ZUPA (SOUP) Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup similar to Russian ‘borscht,’ barszcz may be served with potatoes tossed in, with minipierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it ‘solo’ - in which case it comes simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.

KIEŁBASA Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an enormous variety, made with everything kind of meat imaginable, from turkey to bison. Head to Kiełbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski at Plac Targowy (see p.54) to get a taste of Kraków’s most famous kiełbasa, however. Two old-timers have been grilling sausage out of a van since time immemorial at this hallowed sidewalk stand. 46 Kraków In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

Friendly efficient staff, delicious food, and had a very happy evening! Margaret by krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Kraków Rynek G³ówny 10 tel. +48 12 422 74 60 www.weselerestauracja.pl February - March 2017

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Restaurants MILK BARS

A lot has changed since communism got kneecapped and Poland joined the EU. While many of the old ways of the old days have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied in today’s tourist-laden Kraków, one relic remains resolutely un-Western: the Polish milk bar (‘bar mleczny’ in Polish). These steamy cafeterias serving proletariat cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for anyone who has just set foot in the country. Poland’s first milk bar was actually opened on Kraków’s own market square on May 30th, 1948. As restaurants were nationalised by PL’s communist authorities, milk bars appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairybased meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible, apparently); in fact meals at the local milk bar were often included in a worker’s salary. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. Times were so desperate under communism that many milk bars chained the cutlery to the table to deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning you’ll notice that most milk bars today use disposable dishes and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by ashen-faced, allbusiness babcias (Polish grannies), and the food is as inspired as ever - the only difference being that meat is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, some of these feed museums were saved and continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. BAR KAZIMIERZQD‑7, ul. Krakowska 24, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 45. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. (6-12zł). G­S POD TEMIDĄ The easiest to find: look for the blue and white ‘Bar Mleczny’ sign.QC‑4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12 422 08 74. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (10-18zł). U­N­G­S 48 Kraków In Your Pocket

POLISH CZERWONE KORALE This traditional Polish restaurant may be discreet from the street, but the interior is one of the most vibrant and welcoming in the Old Town. Cheerful wicker chandeliers wound with bright ribbons and beads give the dining rooms a warm glow, while photos of dancing highlanders and peasant maidens frolicking in folk costumes line the walls. Even more colour comes from the kitchen, which serves all the Polish standards, but with some creative innovations and a flair for presentation you’d hardly expect. There’s an entire page of vegetarian dishes(!) and the overall quality of the food makes Czerwone Korale not only a pleasant surprise, but also a great value (particularly during their 14zł lunch deals Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00).QC‑2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 430 61 08, www.czerwonekorale. com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (1345zł). G­S­W DOBRA KASZA NASZA Considering the simple concept, and the fact that it’s discreetly tucked off a corridor full of noisy music clubs, this is a surprisingly sophisticated restaurant, featuring a beautiful timber ceiling and modern art on the walls. While some familiar Polish standards share the menu, train your attention to the first page for an introduction to Polish ‘kasza’ - that is, groats or hot cereal. Choose from pearl groats with chicken curry and black olives, or millet with pumpkin, turkey and garlic sauce. A tasty, filling meal on the market square for under 20zł? Hard to believe and even harder to beat.QB‑3, Rynek Główny 28, tel. (+48) 531 62 64 47, www.dobrakaszanasza.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (16-30zł). T­U­G­S­W ED RED This upscale ‘beef-stro’ (our turn-of-phrase, thanks) specialises in locally-sourced seasoned meat, dry-aged on-site for at least twenty days. With an industrial interior offset by large timber tables, and featuring a vast open kitchen, Ed Red conveys the atmosphere of an NYC steakhouse, but the curt menu is built upon local Polish products and delicacies that change every three months. alongside a wide selection of wines. Though casual in style, the service is outstandingly professional, and everything from the tempting and creative culinary cocktails to the monogrammed cloth napkins reveals that this is a fully thought-out effort. We were positively impressed.QC‑2, ul. Sławkowska 3, tel. (+48) 690 90 05 55, www.edred. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (30-195zł). U­G­S­W

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Restaurants JAREMA This classy veteran restaurant presents old world Eastern Polish cuisine in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century interior adorned with stag antlers and faded oil paintings. Comely waitresses in traditional costume bustle about serving steak tartar with quail yolk, large platters of pheasant and wild boar, and shots of vodka as live folk music is performed each evening. Despite the now-familiar hearkening back to the old days, Jarema is no tourist trap, but rather a heartily recommended destination for carving into some royal cuisine. Featured by the Michelin guide for seven years running.QD‑1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36 69, www.jarema.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (18-55zł). T­6­U­V­E­G­S­W KOGEL MOGEL This refined restaurant minutes from the market square reaches back to a pre-war palette, aesthetic and atmosphere, offering a perfect environment for big social banquets, family feasts and chivalrous courtship. Explicit care is taken to offer tourists arguably the best impression they’ll get of local cuisine and hospitality almost anywhere, with particularly excellent duck and goose dishes coming out of the kitchen. Live piano music, an excellent wine list and a wonderful open air terrace only add to the warm ambience and assure Kogel Mogel a seat at the table of Kraków’s best Polish restaurants.QC‑3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426 49 68, www.kogel-mogel.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (17-65zł). T­E­G­S­W L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT Formerly known as Bar 13, Likus has revamped their excellent wine bar more in the mould of their other culinary successes, and now serves modern Polish cuisine with Italian influences. Drawing from the exclusive vintages (served by the glass or bottle) and local delicacies of the adjacent delicatessen and wine shop, the dining room features a contemporary open kitchen and seasonal minimalist menu featuring rich, creative dishes like dumplings with oxtail, celery and lemon. Located in Pasaż 13, dining the cellar of a shopping mall has never been this classy.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www. pasaz-13.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (25-55zł). U­G­S­W MARCHEWKA Z GROSZKIEM This friendly little cafe/restaurant off Plac Wolnica has Sunday morning stamped all over it. The decor of antique furnishings and framed curiosities is half home-sweethome, half Kazimierz half-light and the menu of Polish staples, breakfast items, pastas and salads brings above average results at below average prices. The highlight, however, has to be the assortment of bottled microbrews and Ukrainian beers, making ‘Carrots with Peas’ as ideal for an early evening drink as it is for a morning coffee. Recommended.QD‑7, ul. Mostowa 2, tel. (+48) 12 430 07 95, www.marchewkazgroszkiem.pl. Open 09:00 22:00. (9-29zł). T­6­U­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

Traditional Polish cuisine, modern character

Open: Sun- Thu 10-22 Fri-Sat 10-24 ul. Sławkowska 13-15, Kraków tel. 12 430-61-08 www.czerwonekorale.eu

HAVE YOUR SAY If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in this guide, let the 1.1 million yearly unique visitors to our website, krakow.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website has a function for comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it. MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (p.101) A must see on the list of Kraków’s many museums and galleries. MOCAK is often overlooked by the tourist hordes who wander past on ‘Schindlers trail’ but they don’t know what they’re missing. Go check it out, they have many great temporary exhibitions to complement the permanent displays. David from Scotland WEŹŻE KRAFTA (p.65) On a December weekday evening it was actually quite crowded and had a great atmosphere. Great place to discover that Polish beer is more than just Tyskie. Maria from Poland HAMSA (p.45) The mezza platters at Hamsa are fantastic! The various hummus choices are all good - especially the red pepper one, and the falafel is some of the best I’ve ever had. The service is great and the atmosphere is casual and comfortable - definitely a place to try in Kazimierz. Karen from USA February - March 2017

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Restaurants MIÓD MALINA (HONEY RASPBERRY) Consistently excellent meals have seen Miód Malina establish themselves as one of the top restaurants in town, so book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by the raised window-side seating. This cheerful restaurant comes with raspberries painted on the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings. There are floral touches aplenty here, lending a storybook, candy cottage atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cooking. The prices remain pegged generously low making a visit here not just recommended (as the Michelin Guide did), but essential.QC‑4, ul. Grodzka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-60zł). T­U­G­S­W MORSKIE OKO Morskie Oko captures the mountain spirit of Zakopane, so you can expect plenty of sheepskin-strewn timber furnishings, farm equipment, waitresses with bits bursting out of traditional costumes, and regular live bands making a good old góralski racket. The food is peasant-fancy: nicelypresented, well-portioned and perfectly prepared plates of grilled game that have earned this place a dedicated following. Plenty of space and a kids corner make it ideal for family feasts.QB‑2, Pl. Szczepański 8, tel. (+48) 12 431 24 23, www.morskieoko.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). T­I­E­G­S­W POD ANIOŁAMI (UNDER THE ANGELS) One of the city’s most historic and charming restaurants, Pod Aniołami offers a quintessentially Cracovian encounter with royal medieval Polish cuisine. This cavernous, candlelit, almost monastic haven is incredibly warm and inviting considering that some of its 13th century dining areas are two levels underground; inside you’re surrounded by historical artefacts, and two beech wood-fired grills allow you to watch the creation of your meal from beginning to end. The extensive menu includes everything imaginable that can be smoked, grilled, or was enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of old, including special recipes made with actual gold - an homage to the building’s past as a goldsmithy. One of Kraków’s richest restaurant experiences indeed, and highly recommended.QC‑4, ul. Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00. (30-140zł). 6­I­G­S­W POD BARANEM An admirable establishment near Wawel Castle, the upscale interior features exposed brick, timber ceiling beams and a fireplace, offset by framed photos of family and guests on the walls, creating a truly comfortable and classy dining environment. Serving excellent incarnations of Polish standards, the menu includes more meat than you’ll find at a livestock market (including deer and wild boar), plus a special page dedicated to gluten-free meals, and the complimentary pre-meal smalec and bread may be the best in Kraków.QC‑5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12 429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (23-100zł). T­U­I­X­S 50 Kraków In Your Pocket

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Restaurants POD NOSEM An elegant upscale dining experience on Kraków’s oldest street, ‘under the nose’ (as the name translates) of Wawel Castle - tantalising smells from the open kitchen will hit yours upon entry. This establishment uses the sous vide method to create a curt menu of modern, beautifully presented Polish and international cuisine, which changes every time we visit. The interior has some fine and creative touches with regal tapestries, embroidered seating, gorgeous dishware and some clever lamp fixtures whose profile pay tribute to the name. Utterly professional, and guaranteed to be one of the most unforgettable parts of your experience in Kraków. QC‑5, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel. (+48) 12 376 00 14, www. podnosem.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-85zł). I­G­W POD RÓŻĄ (UNDER THE ROSE) Excellent Polish cuisine served under the glass atrium of the magnificent Pod Różą Hotel. The open and elegant design features plenty of potted plants, a piano perched on a raised platform and mezzanine seating overlooking the main floor. In addition to delicious coffees, to-die-for desserts, and an extensive wine list, the menu of seasonally inspired entrees includes a menagerie of perfectly prepared poultry and large game. Prices are high, but then so are the standards.QC‑2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 18:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (49-69zł). T­U­E­G­W POD WAWELEM The place to visit if you’re looking to hit your daily calorie quota in one meal. Huge portions of standard Polish fare cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards they’re served on, while uniformed staff weave between the bench seating serving frothing steins of lager. Great for groups and families, kids have their own large rumpus area, while the grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over energetic live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and half-price on Mondays, and there’s a handy ‘vomitorium’ in the men’s room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for those suffering from over-consumption. Now a second location in the Cloth Hall (Restauracja Sukiennice).QC‑5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. Open 12:00 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). T­U­E­G­S POLAKOWSKI The definitive local dining experience. Join the queue and order big plates of piping hot food dished up from metal containers, before bussing your dishes to the wash-up window. Choose from the likes of cutlets with mashed potatoes, spinach or beet salad sides, soups, pierogi and other timeless classics. Far better than it looks or sounds, Polakowski is an editorial fave. Essentially an upmarket milk bar this place has gone the extra yard (or justified the extra zloty) by adding a toilet and English language menu. Also on Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 10 (C-4), ul. Mogilska 35 (K-2) and in shopping malls M1 (Al. Pokoju 67) and Galeria Bronowice (ul. Stawowa 61).QD‑6, ul. Miodowa 39, tel. (+48) 12 421 07 76, www.polakowski.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (10-22zł). T­G­S iyp.me/polandblog

“Pod Aniołami – Under the Angels” is an extraordinary place. With its historical 13th-century interiors and brilliant cuisine based on Polish culinary traditions it brings you closer to the medieval city. This place is famed for marinated meats grilled and smoked on hardwood from beech trees, and for other old Polish dishes. Restauracja „Pod Aniołami” ul. Grodzka 35, 31-001 Kraków www.podaniolami.pl mail: restauracja@podaniolami.pl tel.:+48/12 421-39-99 / PodAniolamiRestaurant

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Restaurants RESTAURACJA SUKIENNICE Known for their enormous schnitzel pork chops (seriously, just split one), daily promotions (including 1-litre beers for only 7.50zł on Mondays!) and complimentary cherry vodka shots with the check, this restaurant has been a rampant success in one of the most high-rent locales in the country. Less beer-hally than its sister establishment Pod Wawelem, enjoy outdoor seating in the shadow of the Town Hall Tower in warm weather, or the surprisingly intimate Austro-Hungary-inspired interior inside the Cloth Hall, all while stuffing yourself silly on local specialties at some of the lowest prices on the market square. The fact that it isn’t a shameless tourist trap, makes it even more of a tourist magnet.QB‑3, Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 09 09, www.sukiennice-restauracja.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (16-43zł). T­G­S­W SĄSIEDZI Probably the best restaurant in Kazimierz for introducing yourself to traditional Polish food, Sąsiedzi (‘Neighbours’) offers up delicious portions of all the standards in a lovely tavern-style interior that perfectly balances elegance with homely comfort. The honeycomb of intimate rooms in the cellar are perfect for small groups, but we’d dine in the flower-festooned patio and winter garden every time if there’s a table available. The staff are refreshingly friendly and helpful, and tested classics like żurek, potato pancakes and perch in lemon-saffron sauce all earn top marks. This is the Polish dining experience you’re looking for, but at prices beneath those you’d get for the same Michelinrecommended results in the Old Town.QD‑6, ul. Miodowa 25, tel. (+48) 12 654 83 53, www.oberza.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-75zł). T­G­S­W SMAKOŁYKI An editorial favourite. Budget food isn’t hard to come by in this town, but when it does, it’s typically service and ambience that you sacrifice for your savings. Not here though. This hip, trendy bistro serves simple, delicious Polish cuisine inside a spacious, slightly urban, slightly retro interior that features a mezzanine and nifty wall art made from pinned string. Daily specials make the deals even sweeter, and plenty of space, plus an abundance of wall plugs and wifi that actually works(!), also make this a great place to work.QB‑3, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12 430 30 99, www.smakolyki.eu. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (9-24zł). T­6­G­S­W SZARA GĘŚ Within one of the most coveted locales on Kraków’s market square, nestled among some of the most exclusive tables in town, ‘The Grey Goose’ has confidently established itself as one of the city’s best places for an exquisite, romantic dinner or special event. The kitchen has carved out a unique niche, offering innovative modern dishes borne out of Polish tradition, with an inclination towards poultry. In fact, we made our entire meal goose-themed: a pre-meal chocolate goose liver praline, the fois gras ice 52 Kraków In Your Pocket

cream appetiser (amazing!), a tender goose drumstick with truffle dumplings, and the signature ‘Szara Gęs’ dessert. Actually resembling a large goose egg in a nest, this last invention is so over-the-top we could only applaud. Bravo. QC‑3, Rynek Główny 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 63 11, www. szarages.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (14-78zł). T­U­G­ S­W WESELE This warm, timber-framed, two-level eatery is one of the most popular on the market square thanks to a reputation built on Michelin recommendations, friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. If your Polish is about as good as your Chinese, the name ‘Wesele’ refers to the lengthy celebration of family, food, love and vodka that takes place after a traditional Polish wedding service, and if this place weren’t full of tourists all the clinking glasses and smiling faces might make you think you’d actually crashed a Polish wedding party. The menu is classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant, and the goose breast is fabulous. Recommended.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60, www.weselerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (17-65zł). T­U­E­G­S­W WIERZYNEK Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was attended by five kings and nine princes. Since then it’s been one esteemed guest after another, with former diners including De Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other world leaders, as well as starlets like Sophie Marceau and Kate Moss. The immaculate interiors of original period furnishings, tapestries, oil paintings and incredible timber ceilings aren’t too dissimilar from a tour of Wawel Castle and you can expect a royal treatment from the staff. The seriously high-end menu is based on the traditional feasting habits of the Polish monarchy, but it hasn’t failed to adopt modern influences as well, meaning you’ll eat like a king and remember the experience - one you could only have in Kraków - for quite a long time. QC‑3, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00, www. wierzynek.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (79-120zł). T­E­G­ W

SPANISH EL TORO RESTAURANTE Establishing itself as a mainstay of Plac Wolnica, this subtly seductive Spanish restaurant offers a variety of authentic Mediterranean dishes, including a full menu of mains, cold tapas atop the bar, and hot tapas to order. The chefs are equally as adept at rich paellas as they are at strange sea creature creations like stuffed squids and grilled octopus tentacle. While that might be overstating the adventurousness of a meal here, in a town surprisingly short on Spanish cuisine, stepping inside El Toro feels like an easy escape to warmer, sunnier, more exotic climes. Soak it up.QD‑7, Plac Wolnica 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 47 33, www.eltoro-restauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (16-65zł). T­G­S­W iyp.me/krakow


Restaurants

Best quality, dishes in outstanding interiors.

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Kraków, Rynek G³ówny 17 tel. +48 12 430 63 11 www.szarages.com

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Restaurants LATE NIGHT EATS When it comes to late night street food, Kraków has you covered. Though you’ll find kebab stands all over popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriańska and ul. Szewska in the Old Town, your options are actually better than that, from all night pierogi shops to the 24hr vodka and herring bars that have sprung up all over town (see p.42). Perhaps Poland’s most popular street food is the ‘zapiekanka’ and the best place to get one is out of one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy roundhouse (D-6) which generally stay open until at least 02:00. Required eating by any visitor, the only late night food spot more legendary is the Kiełbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski sidewalk sausage stand.

KIEŁBASKI Z NIEBIESKIEJ NYSKI This legendary sidewalk sausage stand has been a Cracovian street food institution for over twenty years. Here two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside their blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening except Sundays to grill kiełbasa sausages over a wood-fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For 8zł you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable experience. Kraków’s first food truck, don’t miss it if you’re in the neighbourhood.QE‑4, ul. Grzegórzecka (Hala Targowa). Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PRZYPIECEK Join legions of happy locals tucking into a large range of pierogi with various stuffings, served all night long with no fuss and no formality. Sure, it’s not as fast as a kebab, but it’s a much better value, better quality, and they even offer tables to sit at. At the end of a night of clubbing, there are few better places in Kraków for filling your stomach.QC‑2, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95. Open 24hrs. (9-18zł). G­S­W SCANDALE ROYAL This sexy lounge and bistro has its own special late night menu served from 22:00 until close, comprised of tasty tapas dishes. Choose from exotic and elegant finger foods like bruschetta, tuna empanadillas, Black Tiger prawns with garlic, meat balls and a lot more. QB‑2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 02:00. (12-28zł). X­S­W 54 Kraków In Your Pocket

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN CAFE MŁYNEK The best cafe south of ul. Józefa since its inception over a decade ago, in addition to a classic Kazimierz art gallery atmosphere, good coffee (including drip) and squareside seating in summer, Młynek also serves a smattering of yummy vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free dishes like hummus, falafel, vegan latkes, Spanish tomato soup (like gazpacho, but served hot) and a big vegan breakfast. QD‑7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 02, www. cafemlynek.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. (16-26zł). T­6­G­S­W GLONOJAD (ALGAE-EATER) Though the vegetarian fare here isn’t the most creative we’ve encountered, Glonojad has earned a devoted following of students, activists and artists, and we count ourselves among them at least once a month. Fast, filling, healthy and a great value for your money, the concise eastern-inspired menu features curries, samosas and burritos, and the daily specials are always a sound choice. With an interior that you forget as soon as you walk out the door, Glonojad hasn’t really elevated itself much above the status of a sort-of veggie milk bar (albeit one with beer, wine and wifi), but it’s a good alternative to other cheap Polish eateries, and keeps the kids coming back day after day.QD‑2, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 77. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (11-18zł). T­6­G­S­W KROWARZYWA VEGAN BURGER Well-established in Warsaw, this cheap vegan burger joint has stormed into Kraków and the kids are literally queuing out the door. Choose from 5 standard patties - millet (‘jaglanex’), seitan, chickpea (‘cieciorex’), veggie and tofu, plus outstanding weekly inventions - pick your sauce and bun, and then leave the rest to the riot grrrls on the grill, whose assembly line efficiency is something to behold. The interior is as simple as the menu (from which fries are conspicuously absent), and, as if their hipster cred could possibly be in question, Krowarzywa has their own bottled yerba mate brand and offers 6zł soup in a cup, plus natural smoothies. Honestly, we eat here once a week, and it’s encouraging to see a place like this gain traction just off the market square. Check it out.QB‑2, ul. Sławkowska 8, tel. (+48) 531 77 71 36, www.krowarzywa.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (13-17zł). 6­V­G­S POD NORENAMI Practised in the art of Asian vegetarian cuisine and the metamorphic powers of the soybean like no other place we’ve seen in PL, Pod Norenami’s long menu (too long if we’re honest) features tofu, mock chicken and mock beef prepared in an astounding variety of traditional dishes from the kitchens of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Korea and China. While some Far East standbys (curries, tempura, sushi, pad Thai) aren’t new to Kraków, a true vegetarian restaurant that emphasises mock meat certainly is, and the results have got people packing this place out and returning often. A iyp.me/krakow


Restaurants fun place to fool or educate the Polish palate, the interior is modest and casual (much like the prices) as opposed to modern and kitsch. Do Kraków’s vegetarians have it hard? Hardly.QB‑2, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 661 21 92 89, www.podnorenami.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50zł). T­G­S­W VEGAN BISTRO NOVA KROVA Formerly focussed on combining two current food trends that would otherwise seem at odds - veganism and burgers - Nova Krova has branched far beyond food in a bun to become a full-blown vegan bistro. Enjoy a variety of delicious dishes made from faux meats, whole grains, nuts, beans and other vegan buddies, vegan Sunday brunch (10:00 - 13:00, 15zł), delicious dairy-free desserts, coffee with soy milk, obscure beers and homemade ginger- and lemonade. Burgers are still around, and now you basically ‘build your own’ with whatever ingredients you want, including your choice of patty (bulgar, beans, tofu, seitan, quinoa, falafel) and bun (white, wheat, gluten-free). As you might expect the hipster quotient here is exceptionally high - almost as high as our opinion of the place.QD‑7, Pl. Wolnica 12, tel. (+48) 530 30 53 04. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (10-20zł). 6­U­ G­S­W VEGANIC An outstanding vegan/vegetarian restaurant in the Tytano complex, Veganic possesses both an elegant backdrop for a romantic dinner, and an enormous garden for hipsters hangabouts (and even a playground for their spawn!). A great place to discover new ingredients, enjoy a wide range of excellent, healthy, vegan and gluten-free breakfasts, soups, pastas, desserts, fruit smoothies and green cocktails. Among the menu’s gorgeously presented, quickly-served temptations are mango soup with lime sorbet (amazing), kohlrabi carpaccio with soy foam, and kale cocktails. Paired with eco-wines and craft beers, it’s impossible to oversell Veganic, which vaults itself to the top of the list of Kraków’s vegetarian restaurants.QA‑2, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 668 46 84 69, www. veganic.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 23:00. (20-30zł). T­6­G­S­W WIELOPOLE 3 This large cellar restaurant on an otherwise avoidable street may offer only a limited menu and be overall lacking in atmosphere, but the food is outstanding and the value unbeatable. A seemingly routine list of rather pedestrian vegetarian fare (soups, salads, veggie cutlets, tofu burgers) is given royal treatment by the chef who apparently isn’t aware that the staff are only charging 8zł(!) for entrees. Get your greens in the form of a wheatgrass shot, or the house specialty wheatgrass drink with apple juice and lavender syrup - delicious. Heartily recommended and here’s hoping it overcomes obscurity to become the local lunch bar of choice for everyone in the neighbourhood.QD‑4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 506 02 47 67. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (12-15zł). T­6­U­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

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Cafés

Unwind in Kraków by unwinding a sweet treat from Chimney Cake Bakery.

BONJOUR CAVA This well-admired, local chain of cafes has infiltrated Tytano to give the grungy, post-industrial party complex a place for earlybirds, cakelovers, laptoppers and quicheaters. The charmingly eclectic, chapeau-tipping design succeeds in creating a cosy space to relax, work or refuel. On offer is excellent coffee, ice cream, savoury pies and frittatas, French pastries, daily lunch specials and a dangerous display case of desserts. As this is Tytano, there’s plenty of seating outside, and (unlike their other locations) they also serve wine. Exactly what a cafe should be, you’ll also find them at ul. Warszawska 16 (J-2) and ul. Piłsudskiego 5 (A-3). QA‑2, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 790 22 88 43, www.bonjour-cava.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 6­G­S­W CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO Step into Charlotte and you might not be certain if you’ve wandered into a Parisian-style bistro or a preppy fashion shoot. Here the clients are almost indistinguishable from the staff as well-bred hipsters break bread while their aproned friends scurry about with rattling trays of pastry, homemade honey and jam. The menu is built around the delicious bread baked on-site and includes French classics like Croque Monsieur and creme brulee, gourmet cheese and meat platters - all accompanied by great coffee or wine. The high ceilings and wall-length windows give Charlotte an open, sociable atmosphere, which either makes up for or explains the often spotty service - we’ll let you decide. QB‑2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80, www. bistrocharlotte.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. 6­G­S­W 56 Kraków In Your Pocket

CHIMNEY CAKE BAKERY This sweet treat is native to the Hungarian-speaking regions of Romania, but these local lads have perfected it, while putting their own twist on things. If you’re not familiar with chimney cakes, it consists of thinly rolled dough wrapped around a spit, then rolled in sugar and basted in butter while baking. At Chimney Cake Bakery they make them right in front of you and offer 10 different toppings and fillings, including vanilla, coconut, nutella, peanut butter and - their most innovative creation - ice cream (in summer) or whipped cream (in winter) in a chimney cake cone. Enjoy this hot, steamy (hence the name) treat at their kiosk in the Planty (near the train station), or at Food Truck Square in Kazimierz (E-6). Cakes are 7-9zł, with ice cream or whipped cream 12zł.QD‑2, ul. Basztowa 26A, tel. (+48) 796 06 77 07. Open 12:00 - 21:00. G­S CUPCAKE CORNER BAKERY The haute cupcake trend has spread to Kraków, and this cheerful (but pricey) American bakery couldn’t be more authentic if it was run by Martha Stewart herself. Offering 21 different cupcake flavours on various days of the week (12 daily), choose from delicious creations like Peanut Butter Brownie, White Chocolate Pistachio, gluten-free Chocolate Cashew, Red Velvet and Carrot Cake. If that sounds good, wait until you try their all-natural, artisanal ice cream and milkshakes. Organic coffee and a large selection of delicious bagels are also on hand, everything is made entirely from scratch, and custom orders are invited. Also at ul. Grodzka 60 (C-5) and ul. Michałowskiego 14 (A-2).QC‑3, ul. Bracka 4, tel. (+48) 12 341 42 72, www.cupcakecorner.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. T­U­G­S­W iyp.me/krakow


Cafés JAMA MICHALIKA Established in 1895, it was in this grand venue that Młoda Polska - Poland’s Art Nouveau movement - was founded, with many of the leading artists of the day taking their libations here, and then tacking their art on the walls. Much of it is still here, as well as fin-de-siecle furnishings, stained glass, an anachronous cloakroom and smoking section. There’s also a full menu of Polish food, in addition to coffee, beer and sweets. Although the abundance of tourist groups and the poker-faced nature of the staff limits the appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue is still essential.QD‑2, ul. Floriańska 45, tel. (+48) 12 422 15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 6­U­E­X­W KARMA COFFEE ROASTERS Arguably the best cup of joe in town, Karma roasts their own beans and boasts one of the world’s best espresso machines (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down). But this is hardly the snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks set. Karma caters to a more alternative crowd with a range of vegan, gluten-free baked goods, breakfasts and lunch specials that will make you feel great about what you’re eating, as well as how little you’re paying. A wonderful place to not only wake up, but become a bit more conscious.QA‑2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 662 38 72 81, www.karmaroasters.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. T­6­G­S­W KOLANKO N°6 One of Kazimierz’s most under-appreciated venues, Kolanko has plenty going for it, namely the large garden with plenty of summertime shade and winter warmth, and the occasional concerts that take place in the venue space beyond it (check their FB page). Don’t forget the cheap menu of soups, salads and creatively-stuffed sweet and savoury crepes, however; nor the local amber and dark beers on draught. Quirky attic knickknacks combined with klezmer and world music selections give Kolanko 6 an escapist atmosphere wellappreciated by couples, laptoppers and loners like ourselves. Recommended.QE‑6, ul. Józefa 17, tel. (+48) 12 292 03 20, www.kolanko.net. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. T­6­U­G­S­W NEW MO-JA CAFE A top-notch, modern cafe, Mo-ja offers a huge selection of breakfast and lunch options with a conscious bent towards vegan and gluten-free diets. There’s something for all tastes and appetites, from the simple granola, omelettes, salads and toasted sandwiches, to more original creations like vegan lasagna, the popular breakfast burger, and the sweet potato wrap with avocado, hummus, eggs, orange, sprouts and greens. They make all their own sauces, jams, cakes and sweets, and in addition to coffee and tea offer a range of fresh fruit and veggie shakes. With a quiet, relaxing atmosphere, this is great place to get some work done or just get your day going in the right direction.Qul. Starowiślna 14, tel. (+48) 691 90 49 01. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. T­6­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

fot. Przemysław Kuciński, Niewformie

Try our famous all day breakfasts and stay for our delicious desserts, lunches & sandwiches. Veg & vegan friendly. Mo-ja café&bistro ul. Starowiślna 14, Kraków t: +48 691 904 901

DISHING UP HISTORY With a past that stretches back several centuries, Kraków’s Old Town is a breathing history lesson, and it’s not hard to unsuspectingly find yourself doing your dining and boozing inside a piece of history. The most famous restaurant in town is Wierzynek (p.53), whose opening in 1364 was attended by five kings and nine princes. The occasion was allegedly to stop Europe from going to war, though by all accounts the congress turned into a 21day marathon of feasting and binge drinking. The restaurant has been drawing big names ever since - Spielberg, Castro and Daddy Bush, to name a few - and remains Krakow’s top restaurant. Drink in more modern history in the Noworolski Café (p.58), where Lenin liked to entertain both his wife and his mistress; the fabulous art nouveau motifs inside are the work of Józef Mehoffer, who has his own museum at ul. Krupnicza 26 (p.84). If you like what you see there, you’ll find a trove of art and relics from the era inside Jama Michalika cafe (p.57), which was the preferred meeting place of Poland’s artists and intellectuals at the turn of the century. In 1905 they created Poland’s first cabaret here and the place hasn’t changed a bit since. February - March 2017

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Cafés BREAKFAST

BAGELMAMA Kazimierz’s favourite bagel spot, with a range of different toppings and cream cheeses. Plus, drip coffee, wraps, homemade soups, a killer breakfast burrito, pastrami sandwich and more - served all day, naturally. QE‑6, ul. Dajwór 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 46, www. bagelmama.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. (4-20zł). T­6­G­S­W CZERWONE KORALE Bearing inclusion for its basically unbeatable value, drop into Czerwone Korale before noon for a wide range of breakfast options including 7zł omelettes, toasted sandwiches and obwarzanki (the local bagel), or larger sets like the mad decent English breakfast for 16-19zł. QC‑2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 430 61 08, www.czerwonekorale.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (7-19zł). G­S­W FORUM PRZESTRZENIE One of the best breakfasts in town, Forum’s morning menu (served until 13:00) changes monthly, but of late has featured the awesome ‘San Francisco’ breakfast of frankfurters, grilled cheese with turkey, a fried egg (put it in the grilled cheese!), sweet corn, bacon and pancakes for only 19zł. Need we say more? Okay, well there’s also vegan and gluten-free options, scrambled eggs with truffle paste, and oatmeal with baked apples and pears. Too bad you can’t just sleep upstairs and do this every morning.QI‑4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515 42 47 24, www.forumprzestrzenie. com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (10-19zł). G­W MILKBAR TOMASZA With half the menu devoted to breakfast, select from a range of scrambled, fried, and even poached(!) egg platters, crepes and panini, and their excellent Irish breakfast - served all day.QD‑3, ul. Św. Tomasza 24, tel. (+48) 12 422 17 06. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (10-18zł). T­U­G­S­W SCANDALE ROYAL Mornings in Scandale Royal feature a full breakfast buffet, or order a la carte and choose from two pages of exciting breakfast options, including eggs, omelettes, pancakes, and a solid English breakfast. QB‑2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www. scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00; Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. Breakfast served until 12:30. (11-27zł). S­W 58 Kraków In Your Pocket

NOWOROLSKI This local classic inside the Cloth Hall has seen the city’s highs and lows since opening in 1910. Famous as Comrade Lenin’s preferred hangout during his visits, WWII occupation saw Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi nabobs, before being commandeered by the communist authorities during the PRL era. Things have changed little here, making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years, but live piano concerts and the exquisite art nouveau interiors by Józef Mehoffer make it well worth a look. You can find cheaper and better coffee, but it won’t be served against such an atmospheric backdrop.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 515 10 09 98, www.noworolski.com. pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00. E­G­S­W PAN I PANI SMITH (MR. & MRS. SMITH) Don’t anticipate any Brangelina sightings, this oddlynamed ‘resto-bar’ is decidedly red-carpet-free. Dark wood furnishings, armchairs, cat stencils, stacks of books and uptempo jazz on the stereo evoke the mature atmosphere of a British teahouse - an impression justified by the elaborate list of teas by Longman, Tea Pigs and Sir Williams (plus more in canisters), premium coffee and thick homemade hot chocolate. A large breakfast menu is served all day (including the full English breakfast for 26zł), plus paninis, pasta, salads, soups and proper entrees. Quite a well-rounded venue, it seems to have found a niche with older locals, laptopping expats and British tourists. QA‑2, ul. Krupnicza 14, tel. (+48) 696 51 47 44, www. panipanismith.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 23:00. PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY WEDLA This large, regally elegant chocolate lounge offers a superb collection of confectionery courtesy of Wedel Poland’s best-loved brand. Find chocolates, cakes and pralines of every description, plus rich hot chocolate drinks you can practically stand a spoon up in - all of it every bit as sweet and delightful as the aproned girls that serve it. Interiors are worthy of this kingdom of temptation and include a vaulted glass ceiling, balcony, and black and white pictures of Wedel’s founding fathers. A perfect place to spoil your sweetheart, or reward the kids.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 46, tel. (+48) 12 429 40 85, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. TU­6G­S­W SŁODKI WIERZYNEK This classy cafe/shop on the ground floor of Kraków’s most famous dining destination is everything you’d expect based on its unrivalled pedigree. Enjoy the prime Rynek real estate while indulging in gourmet coffee and cakes, pralines, truffles, macaroons and more - all of which are made on-site and can be taken home in snazzy gift-boxes; or comfortably order later from their online shop.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 36, www.slodkiwierzynek.pl. Open 08:30 21:00. G­S­W iyp.me/krakow


CafĂŠs

iyp.me/polandblog

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Nightlife

Discover the dangerously delicious world of Polish flavoured vodkas on page 64, and basically any bar in town.

If you believe urban legend (like we do) Kraków has the highest density of bars and clubs in the world. Simply hundreds of drinking dens can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of course, are thousands of students, and the millions of tourists that flock to Kraków every year. With increased tourism comes increased prices, however, and these days you can expect to pay 7-10zł (2-3 Euros) for a large beer. For clubbing, the main hedonist high streets are Floriańska (C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where nary a medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or Saturday night; you can also expect most clubs to charge a cover of anywhere from 5-20zł those nights. While the opening hours we list here are confirmed by the venues themselves, most are rather flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Note that bars and clubs in the Kazimierz district have their own separate section in the guide on page 68. Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so use our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - to find reviews of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Below is a list of nightlife recommendations depending on what you’re looking for. COCKTAILS The best in town are at Mercy Brown (p.63) - a pseudospeakeasy with 1920s panache, or try the down-at-heel Mash Room (p.65), where the mixed drinks are on draught. For live jazz and boudoir sensuality, it’s The Piano Rouge (p.66). In Kazimierz try Le Scandale (p.68) or Zenit (p.38) for signature drinks . 60 Kraków In Your Pocket

CRAFT BEER Microbrews are all the rage in Kraków, so there’s simply no excuse for drinking bad beer anymore. Take your tipples in House of Beer (p.63), Weźże Krafta (p.65), Multi Qlti (p.64), Viva La Pinta (p.65) or Ursa Maior (p.69) and you can officially consider yourself a beer snob. STUDENTS Not the most discriminating demographic, students will go anywhere there’s cheap drinks - namely Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.42), but for a more international crowd hit Teatro Cubano (p.67). Those who like to dress up and dance head to Frantic, Prozak and Społem Deluxe (p.66). LADS Irish Pub Pod Papugami (p.63) and Bierhalle (p.33) where matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous behaviour - welcome stag groups, after which you can try your Travolta in Prozak (p.66). Or go a bit more civilised by sampling from the 200+ ales at House Of Beer (p.63). COUPLES Couples looking for some face time should share a bottle in Bottiglieria 1881 (p.62), catch some live jazz in Piec’Art (p.66), converse by candlelight in Mleczarnia (p.69), and have a final nightcap in Mercy Brown (p.63). ALTERNATIVE Take your unfinished screenplay to Dym (p.62), and your long hair and black nail polish to Antycafe (p.61). Kraków’s hipster headquarters are the new Tytano complex (p.65) and old standby Forum Przestrzenie (p.62). iyp.me/krakow


Nightlife SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted

G No smoking

U Facilities for the disabled

6 Animal friendly

X Smoking room available

E Live music

W Wi-fi connection

BARS & PUBS ANTYCAFE As tempting as it would be to call Antycafe a ‘hipster haven’, since mocking hipsters is more hip than being one these days, we wouldn’t want to do this eclectic establishment that disservice. Between the two full bars on opposite ends of this 30m long ‘anti’-café, you’ll find an array of candlelit nooks, an assortment of eccentric, somewhat sinister art, great music, and a very unique, very cool vibe indeed. True to its name, the alternative atmosphere belies more of an edgy bar than a quaint café, and with a great beer selection and one of the least ostracising smoking sections in the Old Town, you’ve all the more reason to occupy a table. If you can find a free one, that is.QC‑2, ul. Sławkowska 12, tel. (+48) 506 48 18 88, www.antycafe.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. U­N­X­W BAROQUE Over several rooms of plush seating, high fashion photographs, dangling chandeliers and a spacious garden during the warmer part of the year, Baroque is a sharp, modern space that mixes the new with the old. Seductively attractive, its range of cocktails is among the best in the city; choose from knock-out creations like the ‘Polish Spring Punch’ or put your head down and do your best to rip through the 100-plus vodkas on the list. While Kraków’s mojito love-affair continues unabated, Baroque’s still looks the best and comes in positively huge portions. There’s a full menu of food to peruse, a lovely hidden garden out back (seasonal), and on weekends the downstairs turns into a dance club, making this one of the most complete venues in town.QC‑2, ul. Św. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06, www.baroque.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. E­X­W BEER GALLERY - LUXURY If you aren’t yet familiar with Belgian beer, hurry yourself here for an education. Specialising exclusively in Belgian imported brands, the knowledgeable staff are ready to tell you all there is to know about the 150 bottles in stock (also available to-go) and the 11 types on draught, as well as letting you sample the latter. Rather than price each label individually, Beer Gallery offers every bottle at an average price of 10zł. Not only does this make it easier, it’s also cheaper than you’ll find at the shop! While little more than a hole-in-the-wall, this Belgian beer iyp.me/polandblog

Luxury Shisha Club in town Maly Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Kraków tel. +48 690 095 485 manager@shishaclub.pl www.shishaclub.pl

HOT BEER? Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the barrel-shaped stands selling cups of it on the market square during December’s Christmas fair. The popular regional brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you enjoy drinking it in public so much, you’ll be delighted to discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and easily prepare it at home as well. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie! February - March 2017

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Nightlife WINE BARS BARAWINO Occupying an unconventional corner locale near Plac Wolnica, BARaWINO is the first wine bar connected with Kondrat Selected Wines - one of the largest wine importers in Poland. This isn’t the domain of haughty sommeliers and wine snobs, however, but rather a social, laid-back gathering place for friends (not just couples!), who place their orders at the bar and either take their bottle home (at a discount), or relax by the glass in the casual interior. The selection in stock surpasses 200 labels, at least 40 of which are available by the glass at the bar, which also offers some wine snacks. DJs play from 20:00 every Weds, and on Thurs they offer a ‘tasting menu’ that includes a glass of four selected vintages, plus bread for only 35zł. A nice reminder that you don’t have to be dressed to the nines to go enjoy a glass of wine.QD‑7, ul. Mostowa 1, tel. (+48) 668 67 17 12. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 6­E­G­W BOTTIGLIERIA 1881 Discreetly hidden on a side street off Plac Wolnica, this small, intimate wine bar exudes class and taste with a sharp decór of fine stonework and aged rough-hewn timber, an open kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly stocked wine cellar (of course). Chef Paweł Kras has put together a mouth-watering and mercifully concise menu of delicious dishes, and tailor-makes a tantalising assortment of fresh tapas (4zł each) right before your eyes, while the sommelier complements them perfectly with her recommendations. A great place for business or courtship, Bottiglieria received an ‘Award of Excellence’ by Wine Spectator magazine, and recently won a top local award for their cuisine. Hardly a surprise, since there are few venues in Kraków as beautifully elegant and unique as this one.QE‑7, ul. Bocheńska 5, tel. (+48) 660 66 17 56, www.1881.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. G­W L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT Formerly Bar 13, this rebranded bar and restaurant now serves modern upscale Polish food with Italian influences, benefiting from the select vintages and local seasonal delicacies of their adjacent delicatessen and wine shop. Sit at the bar, or in their dining room in front of the open kitchen, and enjoy an exclusive selection of red, white and sparkling wines by the glass or the bottle. Located in Pasaż 13, drinking wine in the cellar of a shopping mall has never been this classy, and it makes for a welcome break from being teased by the 3000zł shoes for sale nearby.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 19:00. U­G­S­W 62 Kraków In Your Pocket

library with its encyclopaedic menu is the only place of its kind in the country and a great place to try some of the best beers in the world while duly impressing your date.QD‑3, ul. Św. Tomasza 30, tel. (+48) 601 40 88 70, www.beergallery.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. U­N­ G­W BUNKIER CAFE (THE BUNKER) Attached to Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery, this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English teachers giving private lessons around wobbly tables and chairs, and a sandbox for kids to dig through in summer. A year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), the space is judiciously divided between smoking and non, and they now offer a full menu of delicious food that’s served late; in fact the inviting atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely negligent table service that unfortunately can’t be circumnavigated.QB‑2, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. X­W DYM (SMOKE) Lost in the sauce somewhere between cafe and bar, Dym is a long, dark drink-den, the dull design of which is made up for by the character of the clientele: primarily self-proclaimed artists and intellectuals that blow a lot of smoke. How many advances and grants have been blown here it’s hard to know, but spend a few nights at Dym and you’re guaranteed to become a character in at least two unfinished novels. Yes, we were all so full of promise back then; back before all our ambition and drive went into drink, we went broke and ended up scribbling for this rag... Ah, glory days.QC‑2, ul. Św. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48) 12 429 66 61. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. N­G­W FORUM PRZESTRZENIE In the former reception lobby of the Soviet-era Forum Hotel, Forum Przestrzenie is one of Kraków’s most original, intriguing and effortlessly cool locales. The owners have simply added dozens of bean bags, sofas and a bit of street art sensibility to the original interiors, assembled a highly competent kitchen to create stellar sandwiches, salads and pizzas, stocked the bar with decent beer, and watched the talented, tattooed post-college crowd (“hipsters” you might call them) turn this vast riverside venue into the trendiest place to be day or night. With great views and plenty of space, in warm months their huge riverside terrace is sprawling with beach chairs, while inside there’s enough space for ping-pong tables and foosball. DJ parties and other events are a constant, both here and in the basement Klub 89 (p.66), making Forum one of the most unpredictable and exciting venues in town.QI‑4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515 42 47 24, www.forumprzestrzenie.com. Open 10:00 02:00. E­G­W iyp.me/krakow


Nightlife

The Best

Guinness

in Poland!!!

t The besy’s d d a St. P tion celebra ów in Krak

Awarded first place for quality in Poland’s Guinness Competition.

ul. Św. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl Open: Mon – Sun 12.00 – Till the last guest

HARD ROCK CAFE Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the market square and Cloth Hall from Hard Rock’s modern split-level bar. The chaps here know how to make that drink and the smiling faces can sometimes be all you need after a long day facing stern museum curators. This is also one of the only places in town that has a ‘happy hour,’ which ironically starts after 22:00 Mon-Thu. Overall, HRC isn’t the cheapest place in town, but it’s one of comfort for many.QC‑3, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 10:00 02:00. 6­U ­G ­W HOUSE OF BEER With over 200 bottles and 21 draught beers, this high-ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large leather sofas is serious about improving the beer culture of Poland’s drinking capital. Full of foreigners and locals alike, the atmosphere is friendly without being overly laddish, or having the unnecessary and all too common distraction of TVs nattering in the background. Some bottles can be a bit pricey so find out what the damage is before asking the barman to uncork one, or try the local ales on draught for more of a bargain.QD‑3, ul. Św. Tomasza 35 (entrance from ul. Św. Krzyża 13), tel. (+48) 530 12 91 47, www.houseofbeerkrakow.com. Open 14:00 - 02:00. G­W iyp.me/polandblog

Irish Pub Certified quality Guinness, a wide range of whiskey, live Irish music and live sports on a big screen in a great atmosphere in one of Krakow’s oldest and biggest pubs.

• Two bars • Pool • Darts • SKY – TV (All matches shown)

IRISH PUB POD PAPUGAMI A nice amalgamation of classic Irish pub and Cracovian cellar bar. Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish brica-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens streaming sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphy’s, Guinness and cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable atmosphere beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great place to meet people and find out just what exactly ‘the craic’ is, PP actually captures everything we like about being in an Irish bar.QC‑2, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 61 01, www. podpapugami.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. U­X­W MERCY BROWN The word is out on this pseudo-speakeasy, and now that they’ve normalised their opening hours we’re lifting the veil on the best cocktail bar in Kraków. No joke, the gentlemen that tend bar here are artists and the joy they take in showcasing their talents is palpable; pull up a barstool and don’t miss the show. They make their own tinctures, the liquors are top shelf, and the tidy list of exclusive, artisanal drinks changes regularly; every cocktail costs 21zł, but is absolutely worth it. The perfect place for a nightcap, enjoy the dim, decadent 1920s Parisian atmosphere and electro-swing soundtrack. Hidden above the Smakołyki restaurant with no outside signage, enter and indicate to the porter at the desk that you’d like to go upstairs; half the fun is the forbidden feeling of finding this place.QB‑3, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 512 09 10 12. Open 19:00 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. G­W February - March 2017

63


Nightlife POLISH VODKA

The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most popular of which we describe below. WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, ambercoloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice. KRUPNIK A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’ 64 Kraków In Your Pocket

MULTI QLTI TAP BAR If you enjoy good beer, bring yourself here. With 20 draughts, hundreds of bottles and knowledgeable bar staff, connoisseurs will be hard pressed to call it quits once they’ve cottoned to the fact that PL’s current craft beer craze (and low prices) is making the country heaven on earth for hop-heads. Hidden on the first floor above one of Krakóws clubbing high streets, Multi Qlti is a relative oasis of refinement, with a lowkey atmosphere of chill sounds, street art stylings on the walls and a smoking room with large windows overlooking the street scene below. Bottoms up, bro.QB‑3, ul. Szewska 21, 1st floor, tel. (+48) 12 341 58 47. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00. X­W PAUZA This legendary Old Town drinking den has changed addresses, but essentially kept the spirit of the old place by finding a comparably discreet first floor location overlooking ul. Stolarska. Full of stylish haircuts and sexy dresses, the new Pauza comprises two rooms, the smaller of which is given over to the Pauza Gallery, serving as an exhibition space for perfectly illuminated, high-quality photography exhibitions that make the hipsters feel justifiably art-smart. Furnishings are modern and minimal with low loveseats and stools and some enviable tables in the windows overlooking the street. All told, Pauza remains one of the best hangout spots in the Old Town for making yourself feel ‘in-the-know.’.QC‑2, ul. Stolarska 5/3 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 608 60 15 22, www. pauza.pl. Open 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. X­W PIERWSZY LOKAL... Known for its labourious, unmemorisable name, this cafe/bar opens early to offer breakfast, serving sandwiches and their own hummus throughout the day. One of the only places in the centre where you can enjoy local Dragon’s Head beer (amber or porter), this long-standing favourite blends seamlessly into a bar in the evenings. With eclectic music and a relaxed atmosphere, Piewszy Lokal is a great place to meet friends, relaxing on the leather sofas or chatting around the candlelit tables. You can also smoke in the large back room (which doubles as a gallery) - a bit of a rarity these days. QC‑3, ul. Stolarska 6, tel. (+48) 12 431 24 41. Open 07:30 02:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. 6­X­S­W PIWNICA POD BARANAMI The very definition of the oft-copied ‘Cracovian cellar bar,’ this legendary venue has been around since 1956 when renowned eccentric Piotr Skrzynecki (see his monument a couple doors down in front of Vis a Vis) founded its famous literary cabaret. A local cultural phenomenon, performances (in Polish, naturally) still take place every Saturday at 21:00 and are popular as ever; best to book yourself a ticket by calling 12 421 25 00. Jazz, tango, swing, art exhibits and other events are also frequent, but at its heart this divey dram house is a scruffy safe haven for local artists, academics, bohemians and moon-howling boozehounds who feel right at home amongst the clutter of oddball art on the walls and rickety furnishings. A classic, iyp.me/krakow


Nightlife and seemingly tourist-proof.QB‑3, Rynek Główny 27, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 77, www.piwnicapodbaranami.pl. Open 11:00 - 02:00. G­W SHISHA CLUB BY BOLLYWOOD An Indian-owned den of oriental exotica, Shisha Club’s cup runneth over with draped fabrics, oriental rugs, stained glass lanterns, colourful cushions and intricate tiles. Navigate an underground labyrinth of dimly-lit rooms before settling down in the plush nook of your choice and selecting from five flavours of tobacco (35zł and up), plus drinks from the full bar. Ideal for a quiet make out session with your Queen Jasmine, or a sedated evening with friends.QC‑3, Mały Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 690 09 54 85, www.shishaclub.pl. Open 15:00 - 02:00. X­W STARY PORT (THE OLD PORT) Krakow’s only sailor bar could be best described in three words only: Never-ending drunken singalong. This candlelit ship-in-a-bottle is packed full of students and seamen on permanent shore-leave and the selkies, sirens and sea-wenches that love them. Surrounded by nautical knickknacks, salty, sea-creased musicians sing shanties into the wee hours (particularly Thursday to Saturday) and fellowship is found at the bottom of every bottle. Our favourite pub/plank to walk. Fetch aft the rum, Marcin!QB‑3, ul. Straszewskiego 27 (entrance from ul. Jabłonowskich), tel. (+48) 12 430 09 62, www.staryport. com.pl/krakow. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. E­X­W VIS A VIS Perhaps the only space on the Rynek to survive Kraków’s tourist boom with its scummy integrity intact, Vis a Vis is a timeless local favourite happy to tell foreigners to piss off while indulging pensioned Polish drunkards until their heads hit the beermat. Sadly forced to inflate to 9zł a pint, this is still one of the cheapest drinks on the Rynek, making its seasonal outdoor tables the first you should look for a seat in before sending your most competent compatriot to fetch a drink inside the small stool-laden bar where watching the local barflies makes for an intriguing social study. One of the few remaining remnants of the ‘real Kraków’ that the Rynek has left.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 29, tel. (+48) 12 422 69 61, www. zvis.pl. Open 08:00 - 03:00. 6­N­G­W VIVA LA PINTA Pinta has been one of PL’s most popular and most-awarded microbreweries since 2011 when it began producing craft ales in Zawiercie, just 70km northwest of Kraków. Hidden off ul. Floriańska, this - their flagship brew-pub - is rightfully one of the trendiest locales in town for hipsters and hop-heads. Offering 14 delicious draughts and plenty more in the packed fridge, the selection isn’t limited to Pinta ales alone, showing an admirable solidarity among PL’s small indie breweries. The short menu features some dishes made with their ales, but isn’t nearly as special as the drinks - one of which is sure to meet even the most distinct and demanding of tastes.QC‑3, ul. Floriańska 13, tel. (+48) 12 421 05 90. Open 16:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. G­W iyp.me/polandblog

TYTANO

After lying derelict for decades, this former tobacco factory just west of the Old Town has transformed into an artsy, off-beat culture complex. Inhabiting 6 buildings and 15,000m2, Tytano’s size, potential and post-industrial allure has attracted dozens of original bars, restaurants and shops with their fingers on the pulse of current urban culture trends, making this ‘city within the city’ the current place to be in Kraków. Other venues of note at Tytano include Veganic (p.55), Zet Pe Te (p.66), Meat & Go (p.36), Forum Designu (p.121), MiędzyMiastowa (p.35) and Lost Souls Alley (p.117). MASH ROOM This Tytano venue is essentially a cocktail dive bar, whose slightly psychedelic interior includes an odd ceiling canopy made of plastic cups. The only place in town to offer draught cocktails, you’ll find four signature mixers on tap - including the Mash Mule: vodka, kaffir lime, ginger, lemongrass and the beer of your choice - with sizes ranging from tumbler (12zł) to carafe (28zł). Eight other delicious long drinks (16zł) and Czech beer round out the libations list, and they have a tasty tapas bar that serves hot and cold dishes (olives, chicken satay, marinated tofu) all night. DJs hit the decks on weekends and the party occupies all of the surrounding area, so mix yourself in.QA‑2, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/7B, tel. (+48) 530 05 35 51. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Mon 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. U­E­G­W WEŹŻE KRAFTA Located at the heart of the hip Tytano complex, Weźże is Kraków’s largest multitap bar, offering 25 craft beers in rotation on draught and an additional 50 in bottles. With an industrial interior of unplastered bricks, columns supporting the ceiling beams, and leather seating, this is a flophouse for hopheads, which spills outside into the adjacent alleys. Even when crowded, however, Weźże feels like a cool oasis of civil camaraderie, far from the din of the city. One of the city’s trendiest drinking destinations, if you appreciate your ale, you should absolutely seek it out.QA‑2, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/3, tel. (+48) 12 307 40 50, www.wezze-krafta.ontap.pl. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. 6­G­W February - March 2017

65


Nightlife LIVE MUSIC & JAZZ

Zet Pe Te, #musicinyourpocket

PIEC’ART The legend of this esteemed jazz den dates back to 1999, and it has managed to remain at the forefront of Kraków’s respected jazz scene ever since, attracting some of the biggest names in the world jazz scene to its stage. Live concerts take place almost nightly (check their website for exact details) in the vaulted brick cellars, attracting an artsy crowd of jazz playing peers and purists. A recent expansion upstairs onto ul. Szewska has made Piec’Art more inviting than ever, with a classy coffee and whiskey bar, featuring the longest bar in town and silent films flickering on the wall.QC‑3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 16 02, www.piecart.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. E­G­W THE PIANO ROUGE The red-light interior of this opulent underground venue on the market square embraces burlesque sensuality with boudoir curtains, feather boas, plush velvet loveseats, gilded pictureframes and an outstanding bartop lined with piano keys.The Parisian decadence is matched perfectly with attentive staff in sexy evening attire, great cocktails and European fare. The main draw, of course, are the live piano jazz, pop and soul performances that take place every day from 21:00 - 24:00.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 46, tel. (+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. pl. Open 09:30 - 02:00. E­G­W ZET PE TE Located at Tytano, Zet Pe Te is Kraków’s new premier cultural space and live music venue for bands and DJs touring nationally and internationally. The diverse calendar features everything from klezmer to hip-hop, house and reggae, with film screenings, art exhibitions and other events as well. The name denotes the Polish phonetic pronunciation of ZPT, or ‘Zakład Przetwórstwa Tytoniowego’ (Tobacco Processing Plant) - a nod to the former tobacco factory complex it’s located in. In terms of interior, the industrial past is still very present, with little more than two bars and the original support beams decorating this warehouse space, which also bears a sizable share of the load for Tytano’s mission of being a centre for alternative urban thought and expression.QA‑2, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 728 82 80 17. Open 17:00 - 22:00, Thu 20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 06:00. 6­U­E­G 66 Kraków In Your Pocket

CLUBS FRANTIC Dance alongside hourglass figures in what asserts itself as one of Kraków’s best clubs/meat markets. The design is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough exposed rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes, but the sound system lures some of the best DJs around to put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to jump inside the cat’s pyjamas.QC‑3, ul. Szewska 5, tel. (+48) 12 423 04 83, www.frantic.pl. Open 22:30 - 04:00, Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri 22:50 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. X­W KLUB 89 Lying perfectly intact in the basement of the Forum Hotel, we knew it was only a matter of time before this sleeping dragon awoke again. Originally opened in 1989 (hence the name), Forum’s swanky basement club ‘Crazy Dragon’ likely hosted the drunken dance exploits of honoured guests like Helmut Kohl and Steven Spielberg before closing in 2002. Now the club has been reopened in a collaboration between Forum Przestrzenie and Unsound Festival to basically serve as Unsound’s year-round headquarters. Of course the irony of having today’s most avant-garde DJs playing all-night sets in the original commie-era interior of plush leather booths and carpeted ceilings is rich indeed, and the organisers say it is akin to entering a David Lynch film (ooh, artsy). Check their FB page to see what events are taking place here each weekend.QI‑4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00 only. PROZAK 2.0 At once a honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to ‘pull’from the pool of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on their tabs, and a haven for savants for whom clubbing is ‘about the music,’ Prozak has lived on the cutting edge of Krakow’s clubbing scene for over a decade with an impressive lineup of top DJs on weekends. The interior is an endless maze of underground rooms over two levels with an incredible four bars and three dance-floors on which to wild out. The crowd is just as fun, flirty and foreign-friendly as ever, with the party continuing until the natural selection of those with kittens and those with kebabs takes place in the blurry light of another dawn.QC‑4, Pl. Dominikański 6, tel. (+48) 733 70 46 50, www.prozakdwazero.pl. Open 22:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat ​22:00 - 08:00. Closed Mon, Sun. X­W SPOŁEM DELUXE This new off-shoot of the classic, communist-themed Społem club so successfully captures the atmosphere and style of its predecessor that it would have been more aptly dubbed ‘Społem Redux.’ With more space than ever for the surprisingly stylish Soviet-era wallpaper patterns, neons, and other colourful kitsch that earn it its namesake, Społem Deluxe delivers a separate space for smoking and a mercifully self-contained dance area where the DJ again spins nostalgic pop hits inside a 1968 van, but without iyp.me/krakow


Nightlife making conversation elsewhere impossible. Though there’s a dance party every night (except Mon & Wed, which host karaoke), craft beers and boardgames further let you know that this isn’t a typical nightclub, but one where you can come as you are (no cover!) and only hit the dancefloor if the mood strikes you. That’s our kind of place and we’ll certainly be back.QD‑2, ul. Floriańska 53, tel. (+48) 12 341 57 51. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Wed, Thu 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. X­W SZPITALNA 1 This down-the-rabbithole music club near Mały Rynek has a slightly scruffy, dive disposition, but that’s the appeal (for us, anyway). Descend the stairs, then more stairs, to find a space with several stage and dance areas where alternative rock and blues concerts take place at least once a week, with DJs shattering ear drums on the weekends with techno, electronic and drum&bass sounds. The superfriendly international bar staff contribute immensely to the atmosphere, and depending on the evening you might find a laid-back ex-pat music-and-brewze session, or a sweaty, writhing student sexpit; check their FB page for prognosis. QC‑3, ul. Szpitalna 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 61. Open 20:00 - 01:00, Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 06:00. E­X­W

ul. St. Jan 10, Krakow +48 12 430 61 64 (call after 8 pm) +48 510 481 551 Open: 7pm - 4am, Mon - Sun www.paradiseclub.pl

THE BEST

STRIP CLUB IN CRACOW

TEATRO CUBANO Successfully simulating the sultry atmosphere of a Havana side-street as you shuffle through the crowded alleyway into the rhythmic club, this vivacious venue is a forceful breath of fresh air. Full of students and travellers from the Little Havana Hostel upstairs, Teatro Cubano is a perfect place to get your buzz on with cheap beer and mixed drinks served fast by efficient barmen, and you can order platters of sliders (mini-burgers) from Papitos next door. With live music every day and DJs into the wee hours, check their FB page to see what today’s party is. Diversity is something Kraków could use more of, and this place embraces it.QB‑3, ul. Jagiellońska 10, tel. (+48) 795 19 11 70. Open Mon, Tue, Sun 15:00- 04:00, Wed, Thu 15:0005:00, Fri, Sat 15:00- 06:00. E­W

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT PARADISE CLUB Boy will be boys they say, and the shocking growth of strip clubs inside the UNESCO-listed Old Town in recent years would seem to confirm that men do indeed become lads when abroad without their wives. Unfortunately, with the growth of Kraków’s naughty clubs come rumours of scams and shady, sometimes dangerous dealings, which is why we list Paradise Club in our guide. Right in the centre, enter and enjoy, and leave when you want without being extorted for overpriced drinks or having to call a cab. Inside you’ll find an executive atmosphere and plush leather booths surrounding the dance area, so you won’t need to get the binoculars out to observe these birds of Paradise preening themselves on the club’s two go-go poles.QC‑2, ul. Św. Jana 10, tel. (+48) 510 48 15 51, www.paradiseclub.pl. Open 20:00 - 04:00. X iyp.me/polandblog

THE PLACE

WHERE DREAMS

COME TRUE

February - March 2017

67


Kazimierz Nightlife ATELIER Wedged into the corner of Plac Nowy’s drunken pigeon nest, descend the stairs to escape into this refreshingly poised and put-together restaurant/lounge. We’ve always been big fans of this space - the highlight of which is the enormous yearround covered garden - and Atelier has brought a stylish eye to the design, keeping it casual, colourful and tastefully modern. Perfect for a queen bee convergence over cocktails, and sporting a heady craft beer selection for the boys, they also serve a decent range of affordable eats, including sandwiches, salads and pasta. Also, whoever does the desserts deserves a raise.QJ‑4, Pl. Nowy 7 1/2, tel. (+48) 690 86 68 00. Open 16:00- 01:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. G­S­W

Alchemia

When the steady revitalisation of Kraków’s former Jewish district began back in the 1990s, much of the investment came from business owners able to purchase derelict buildings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading the area that passes for furniture, add a liquor shelf and presto! - open a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly captured the spirit of the neighbourhood. The district quickly became synonymous with cafe/bars choked with smoke, candlelight, antiques and bohemians, where under the stewardship of alcohol one might be able to commune with a lost, forgotten world beneath the haze. As the area’s clean-up, aided by the 1993 release of Schindler’s List, brought more and more tourists to its historical sights, Kazimierz went through a renaissance that saw it quickly develop into the city’s hippest neighbourhood. Today the area is chock-a-block with bars, clubs and restaurants, even ousting the Old Town per square metre, and though a trace of that original charisma vanishes with each new cocktail bar opening, there is no better place in Kraków for a night out. Kazimierz’s history makes it a requisite stop for tourists, but it is the district’s nightlife that gives it its true vitality and much of the mystique it still carries today.

BARS & PUBS ALCHEMIA One of Kraków’s most evocative bars, the aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day, in the evenings Alchemia’s murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when it’s not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer festivals, and the adjacent Alchemia od Kuchni serves a full menu of excellent eats until 23:00 (24:00 Fri & Sat). Essential in every way.QE‑6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Mon 10:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. E­X­W 68 Kraków In Your Pocket

ESZEWERIA Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszeweria’s old world antiques, candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls once played host to some of the city’s most novel concerts, however these days it’s more of a sleepy hangout for hip nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling off their lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet drink and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the large seasonal garden is lush oasis, and the restroom may be the most romantic in town (no wonder there’s a queue). QD‑6, ul. Józefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27. Open 10:00 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. U­N­X­W NEW HEVRE This 19th century Jewish prayer house has fallen into the hands of the same team behind Alchemia and Bunkier, and captures much the same spirit as those two well-loved cafe/ bar/restaurants. Badly damaged during WWII, many of the original architectural elements are still in place, including traces of the original frescos on the patchy walls. With plenty of space, high ceilings and the original mechitza (a balcony for separating men and women) above the ground floor bar, there’s a real feeling of history here. They only serve Pilsner Urquell beer, and ordering one can be frustrating, but the uniquely Cracovian atmosphere is tough to beat. The basement hosts DJ parties on Fri & Sat, and word on the street is that there will soon be a kosher restaurant upstairs. QD-6, ul. Meiselsa 18, tel. (+48) 530 90 85 10. Open 10:00 - 02:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. EG­W LE SCANDALE Outclassing most of its Plac Nowy competition, Le Scandale unfolds over a series of sleek rooms draped with sultry ladies and sharp-dressed business sharks, before revealing an enormous heated garden in the back, which includes a smoking section, second bar, and a grillmaster cooking up delicious steaks. Home to a large selection of whiskey, rum, and some of the best cocktails in Kraków, Le Scandale also features a full fusion-inspired menu (served late), sexy service and live music every Sunday from 20:00. This is modern Kraków at its finest - you may not want to leave.QD‑6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 55, www.lescandale.pl. Open 08:00 - 01:00; Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. U­E­X­W iyp.me/krakow


Kazimierz Nightlife LES COULEURS The quintessential thinking man’s cafe, Les Couleurs is a special favourite among Kraków’s aging, dog-faced bohemians, androgynous hipsters who wear oversized, non-prescription glasses and anyone with a laptop. Plastered with classic French posters and photos of Serge Gainsbourg, Kazimierz’s most well-lit bar - and one of it’s most well-loved - is an anytime affair where cigarettes, coffee, beer, bile and blood are as interchangeable and easily confused as work, pleasure and art; as day and night. Recommended.QD‑6, ul. Estery 10, tel. (+48) 12 429 42 70. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. 6­X­W MLECZARNIA From April until about the end of October, this is one Kraków’s most glorious beer gardens, and right next to an easily recognisable film set from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List. If that parade gets rained on, or you find yourself here during the off-season, take solace in the cross-street interior with its Old World atmosphere of candlelight, rickety furniture, murky portraits, wooden floors and wide-open, floor to ceiling streetside windows (not to mention the enchanting bathroom). A great place for a romantic evening conversation or afternoon coffee with a book, this is what the whole of Kazimierz was once about: taking things as they come. Recommended. QD‑6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85 32, www.mle. pl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. G­W SINGER One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer essentially invented the evocative aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and candlelight associated with the district today. Despite its long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion of tourists, today Singer still holds much of the magic it did when it first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day, Singer hits its stride around 03:00 when tabletops turn into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, celtic and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a Ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are obliterated. Yeah, we’ve had a few good ones here. QD‑6, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. Open 09:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. X­W URSA MAIOR CONCEPT STORE & PUB Ursa Maior is a small Polish microbrewery from Bieszczady - a wild, dreamy region on the Ukrainian border full of wolves, bears, mountains and stars. As such, there’s a certain wild, dreamy spirit to their small, flagship pub in Kraków, which features a rustic-DIY design, and a staff and clientele that both look like they might have all their worldly belongings in a bindle behind the bar, ready to head on down the road at a moment’s notice, but slowly enjoying the present moment one pint at a time. Choose from 21 delicious craft beers (6 on draught), including the dangerously drinkable ‘Śnieg na Beniowej’ (Snow in Beniowa) American Golden Ale.QD‑7, Pl. Wolnica 10, tel. (+48) 730 56 58 88, www.ursamaior.pl/ krakow. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. G­W iyp.me/polandblog

BREWERIES BROWAR LUBICZ ​ riginally founded in 1840, this historic brewery has O reinvented itself and risen again as a snazzy postindustrial brew-pub producing craft beers (including APA, Double-bock and Wit), three of which snagged medals at the 2015 Golden Beer Poland competition (with a gold medal going to ‘Lubicz Ciemne’ dark lager). If you can’t drink them all in one sitting, don’t worry you can take their full assortment home in bottles, plus other stylish brewery swag from their shop. Offering tours, tastings and a full card of delicious regional cuisine and beer snacks, this is also a great place to catch league action on the tele. Overall, a lot of care has gone into the rising of this phoenix, and it’s a welcome return.QE‑2, ul. Lubicz 17J, tel. (+48) 12 353 99 44, www.browar-lubicz.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. 6­G­S­W STARA ZAJEZDNIA (THE OLD DEPOT) This old tram depot has assumed a second life as Kraków’s biggest brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia’s size is both a blessing and a curse. When the sun’s out hundreds of beach chairs dot the garden, but the enormous main hall is too impractical to open except for large-scale special events. The smaller outbuildings can still feel pretty lonely without a large party inside, but if you happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flat-screens are on hand for football (for Euro 2016 there will be a fan zone and outdoor screen) and the 5-6 ales they brew on-site (including honey and apple) do well to wash down the traditional fare tailored to complement them. Also don’t overlook the menu of single malt whiskies if you want to beat your friends in the race to be first under the table.QE‑6, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.starazajezdniakrakow. pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri 14:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (13-36zł). U­G­W T.E.A. TIME The name is an acronym for Traditional English Ale, which they brew on-site and dispense from six draughts (two of which are hand-pumped). The ales on offer are in constant rotation, but include a bitter, porter, English IPA and American wheat, all served by the pint (13.6% larger than the typical Polish half-litre) and half-pint. References to the UK abound in the interior, and as you might expect, this place is a major ex-pat magnet, with the boon of staying open a bit later than the bars back home. Though not far from Wawel, you won’t find it by accident, but it’s certainly worth seeking out for a quiet, civilised drink.QC‑7, ul. Dietla 1, tel. (+48) 517 60 15 03. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. G­W February - March 2017

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Krakรณw Sightseeing Krakรณw is much more than just cellar bars and sexy ladies (though that would suffice for most). So put that drink down, set an alarm, and go discover the magic of this city - district by district.


Sightseeing Kraków has always been, in many respects, a charmed city. With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement of Wawel Hill, Kraków has fortuitously avoided destruction since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the 13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not to come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on the enchanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, forced to erect their grey communist Utopia in the outlying suburb of Nowa Huta. As a result, Kraków is today one of the most beautiful showpieces of Central Europe - a claim validated by its historic centre’s inclusion on the first ever UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of majestic architectural monuments, cobbled thoroughfares, cultural treasures, timeless courtyards, priceless artworks and legendary beer cellars and gardens, Kraków’s historic centre is the pride of Poland.

WHAT TO SEE Kraków’s centre can be divided into two main sections - the Old Town (p.72) and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter, p.94), with Wawel (the former Royal Castle, p.90) towering between them. These three areas are requisite for anyone visiting the city - even if just for a day - and have been given their own separate treatment with accompanying cultural listings within this guide. Though one could spend their life wandering in and out of the cobbled streets, courtyards, cafes, clubs and museums of the Old Town and Kazimierz (we’ve attempted to make a life out of it), don’t hesitate to take a trip across the river into Podgórze (p.100) - arguably the city’s most evocative and mysterious district; the Jewish heritage trail also naturally leads you from Kazimierz into Podgórze, where the worst horror of Kraków’s Nazi occupation played out and Schindler made a name for himself. Just west of the Old Town lies Salwator - Kraków’s greenest district, and home to one of its most unique outdoor attractions, Kościuszko Mound (p.86). Within these pages you’ll also find a section devoted to Nowa Huta (p.106), one of only two planned socialist realist cities ever built. Designed to be the antithesis of everything Kraków’s Old Town represents, both culturally and aesthetically, the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are only a tram ride away. Those staying in the area for a week or more should strongly consider day trips to Wieliczka (see our feature, p.6), Auschwitz-Birkenau (p.110) and Tarnów (p.113), information about the latter two of which you’ll find in our Further Afield section. However long your stay, the meticulously updated information in this guide will help you make the most of it. Enjoy exploring Kraków and Małopolska.

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KRAKÓW IN 24HRS Kraków’s nucleus is the market square (p.72), and as such, the first thing you should do after dropping off your bags is figure out how to get there - on foot, or via krakow.jakdojade.pl (p.14) if you’re staying somewhere beyond the confines of our map on p.139. Exploring the ‘Royal Route’ (p.72) and the market square en route to Wawel can take a full day if done correctly with short stops/detours for culture, coffee and comfort food - and it’s exactly what you should do if you’re here with limited time. Have breakfast in Charlotte (p.56), and later a filling Polish lunch in Kogel Mogel (p.49), or go for more familiar fare in Pino (p.36) or Bunkier (p.34). Make sure that you’re on the market square at the turning of the hour so you hear the famous hejnał mariacki - the bugle call played from the tower of St. Mary’s Basilica (p.76), and visit the church’s interior to see the magnificent altarpiece. Also take an hour to visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.80) inside the Cloth Hall and stand in awe of some of the largest canvases you’ve ever seen in your life. After lunch start working your way down ulica Grodzka (C‑4) towards Wawel, and make sure that you stop inside St. Francis’ Basilica (p.77) quickly to see Wyspiański’s colourful interiors and mind-blowing stained glass window. After admiring the apostles outside the Church of Saints Peter & Paul (p.77), it’s on to Wawel Castle (p.90). If there’s plenty of time consider a trip through the State Rooms, or rent the audioguide for Wawel Cathedral; if not, content yourself with simply admiring the architecture from the castle’s interior courtyards (it’s free to walk around after all) and later have a stroll along the boulevards of the Wisła River below the castle. After dark head back to ul. Kanonicza for a romantic dinner in Pod Nosem (p.50) or Copernicus (p.34), or backtrack a bit more to Restauracja Pod Aniołami (p.50) or Szara Gęś (p.52). After dinner return to the heart of the Old Town for jazz in Piec’Art (p.66), cocktails in Baroque (p.61), or Polish microbrews in Multi Qlti (p.64). For late night food tourism it’s Ambasada Śledzia (p.42). Alternatively, this is your chance to check out the trendy Tytano (p.65) complex full of bars and bistros, or to explore Kazimierz (p.94); if you’re interested in a klezmer concert get to Klezmer Hois (p.44) by 20:00, or just go straight to Plac Nowy and start drinking in Alchemia (p.68). Make sure you try at least a few flavoured vodkas and if they do their magic, head to Singer (p.69) after midnight to start dancing on tables. For late night hunger pangs, ordering a zapiekanka (p.46) on Plac Nowy (p.98) is basically obligatory. Now all that’s left to do is fall in love and stay forever... February - March 2017

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The Royal Route MAIN MARKET SQUARE Kraków’s main market square (Rynek) serves as the city’s gravitational centre, and is the natural start and finish point for any tour of the city. Originally designed in 1257 - the year Kraków was awarded its charter - the grid-like layout of the Old Town and its central square have changed little in the centuries since. Measuring 200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded by elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names and histories. The Rynek has always been the city’s natural assembly point for public celebrations, parades, protests and even executions; it was here that homage to the King was sworn until 1596, here that Tadeusz Kościuszko famously inspired the locals to revolt against foreign rule in 1794, and here also that ‘Der Führer’ himself announced the name changed to ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ during Nazi occupation. Fortunately the moniker didn’t last long and today the Rynek remains a stage for Polish culture, hosting annual Christmas and Easter markets, as well as numerous festivals and outdoor concerts. Taking centre stage is the huge Cloth Hall (Sukiennice, p.80) - effectively the world’s first shopping mall, built in the 14th century. To this day it is still crammed with merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat. Beneath it the hi-tech Rynek Underground museum (p.87) traces its history, as well as that of the entire city, while the second floor hosts the underrated 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.80). On the square’s east side stands one of Kraków’s bestloved monuments - that of Poland’s most eminent scribe, Adam Mickiewicz (p.78) - between the Cloth Hall and the Rynek’s other crowning glory, St. Mary’s Basilica (p.76). Don’t miss Veit Stoss’ magnificent altarpiece inside, or hearing the hourly bugle call played from its tower. On the square’s other side is the 70 metre Town Hall Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining after many fires, renovations and shortsighted demolitions. QC‑3.

mrallen / Dollar Photo Club

72 Kraków In Your Pocket

FOLLOWING THE ROYAL ROUTE This walking tour from the train station to the Castle takes you past most of the Old Town’s major sights more info on which you’ll find in the following pages.

Floriańska Gate

© milangonda, AdobeStock

Any exploration of Kraków’s Old Town should start with the ‘Royal Route’ - the historical coronation path of the Polish kings when Kraków served as the royal capital from the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century. Most of the Old Town’s prime sights lay along this route from the Floriańska Gate to Wawel Castle. For many of less noble lineage, however, the route begins at Kraków’s train station (E‑1), a walk from which to the main market square is among the most regal and awe-inspiring introductions to any city in Europe. Following the human traffic from the station through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant you in the green space that encircles the Old Town known as the Planty (D‑2, p.82). Ideal for a fair weather stroll, the Planty was once a series of medieval fortifications surrounded by a moat. After Poland’s Third Partition in the late 18th century, the order came down from Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph I to dismantle these neglected structures, however thanks to local effort the northern parts of the wall were spared, including the magnificent Barbican and Floriańska Gate. Walking the two blocks towards the Barbican, take note of the Słowacki Theatre (D‑2, p.73) to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A marvellous Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while it’s a bit difficult to infiltrate during the day, buying an affordable ticket to the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead, the circular fortress of the Barbican (D‑2, p.73) was added to the city’s defences in the late 15th century while, directly across from it, the Floriańska Gate (D‑2) that officially began the Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and you’re on one of Kraków’s main commercial streets. Behind the Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs don’t fail to notice the architectural detail of the facades. On this street you’ll find the Jan Matejko House (C‑2, p.83), as well as the under-appreciated Pharmacy Museum (p.86). iyp.me/krakow


The Royal Route Arriving upon Kraków’s main market square or ‘Rynek’ (C‑3, p.72), you are now standing in the heart of Poland with your finger on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually the Rynek and Wawel may be the two most important sights in the country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval market square in Central Europe, Kraków’s Rynek is 200 metres square and functions as the city’s social gravitation point. Lined with cafes and restaurants, filled with people, pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn carriages, this is a place of festivals, concerts, parades and other events. At its centre lies the impressive Cloth Hall or ‘Sukiennice’ (p.80) - a neo-Gothic structure which has served as a market for merchants since the Middle Ages, and whose history you can now learn in the Rynek Underground museum (p.87) housed beneath it, not to mention the wonderful 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.80) on the first floor. Directly before you as you’re leaving Floriańska is St. Mary’s Basilica - or Mariacki Cathedral (p.76) - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country famed for its incredible altarpiece and stained glass. It’s from atop the taller of the two cathedral towers that a bugler plays an abbreviated tune every hour on the hour - don’t miss it. On the other side of the square you’ll find the Town Hall Tower, with a viewing platform at the top (open March - October) and a theatre and restaurant in the former basement prison. Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to Plac Wszystkich Świętych (C‑4). To the right is St. Francis’ Basilica (B/C‑4, p.77) with an Art Nouveau interior by Stanisław Wyspiański that should not be missed, while directly before you are three more incredible Wyspiański stained glass windows in a specially-made modern building. Ulica Grodzka leads you past the Church of Saints Peter & Paul (C‑4, p.77) with its striking sculptures of the 12 disciples before it. Cut across the small square to your right and you’ll find yourself on one of Kraków’s most handsome streets, ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul II’s former residence is at numbers 19-21, which now house the Archdiocesan Museum (C‑5, p.81). Kanonicza lets out directly at the foot of Wawel Castle (B/C‑5, p.90), the city’s defining landmark. A source of great pride, patriotic and spiritual strength, Wawel is worth spending half a day exploring, as well as the Wisła riverbanks below.

Church of Saints Peter & Paul

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© Jörg Hackemann - dollar photo club

SŁOWACKI THEATRE

Regarded today as an architectural masterpiece, the Słowacki Theatre came under fierce criticism when construction began, due to the demolition of the medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for it. Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski modeled his design on the Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished for its elaborate facade decorated with allegorical figures. Sadly, the interior is off limits to the public unless there is a production on, however a pleading look may be enough to get past this obstacle. The foyer and marble staircase are supreme examples of fin-desiecle thinking, and the lavish stage curtain featuring paintings by Henryk Siemiradzki is alone worth the deviousness needed to sneak in.QD‑2, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.slowacki.krakow.pl.

BARBICAN

© Patryk Michalski / Dollar Photo Club

The showpiece of the city’s medieval defences, the Barbican was built at the end of the 15th century to protect Kraków’s main entrance and was connected to the Floriańska Gate via a drawbridge over the moat that surrounded it. With walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece of medieval military engineering proved impenetrable and today stands as one of the only surviving structures of its kind in Europe. Built in Gothic style, the Kraków Barbican is topped by seven turrets and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers and riflemen. Today the Barbican is used for various special events (medieval pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited as an outdoor museum from April until the end of October, where you’ll learn the history of Kraków’s defensive walls.QD‑2, ul. Basztowa, tel. (+48) 12 422 98 77, www.mhk.pl. Closed until April. February - March 2017

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Old Town KRAKÓW IYP ONLINE Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent content we have on Kraków and the surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just how much of the country we cover, and to download guides to Warsaw, Gdańsk, Wrocław, Katowice and other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small sampling of great Kraków-related content we didn’t have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket! PŁASZÓW CONCENTRATION CAMP The story of the Holocaust in Kraków didn’t end when the Jewish Ghetto was liquidated. Six to eight thousand Jews were moved to this concentration camp within the city’s limits, where the horror continued to unfold. We have the most exhaustive English-language guide to the site: iyp.me/plaszow LITERARY KRAKÓW In October 2013 Kraków was designated a ‘UNESCO City of Literature.’ The city’s resume includes the first bookstore in Europe, and Nobel Prize winners for Literature - Czesław Miłosz and Wisława Szymborska. Our guide to Literary Kraków introduces you to the city’s most famous authors and best literary locales: iyp.me/literarykrakow STAINED GLASS Some of Kraków’s most iconic works of art aren’t applied on canvas or carved in stone, but composed of light and glass. Thanks to local luminaries like Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Żeleński, Kraków is home to some of the most awe-inspiring windows in the world, and we tell you where to find them here: iyp.me/krakowstainedglass POPE JOHN PAUL II Born in nearby wadowice, Karol Wojtyła studied at Jagiellonian and served as Kraków’s Bishop before becoming Pope in 1978. Aside from the Vatican, no city is more associated with the late pope than Kraków, which remained his spiritual home throughout his life. IYP takes a look at the life, legacy and local sites associated with ‘Poland’s Pope:’ iyp.me/thepope 74 Kraków In Your Pocket

GUIDED TOURS If an authoritative print guide, website and app (iOS, Android) just aren’t enough and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid) there are plenty of tour companies to choose from in Kraków and we list the best of them here. CRACOW TOURS A variety of tour packages available, including thematic city centre tours and popular day-trips to Auschwitz, the Wieliczka salt mines, Zakopane and more.QB‑2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 430 07 26, www.cracowtours. pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. DISCOVERCRACOW.EU This helpful tourist office offers walking and electric car tours of Kraków, as well as airport transfers and excursions to Wieliczka and other area attractions. Also a currency exchange and sales point for the Kraków Tourist Card and museum tickets. Another, smaller location nearby at Rynek Główny 30 (B-3), and also at Plac Szczepański 8 (B2).QC‑3, ul. Św. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 728 44 81 74, www. discovercracow.eu. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Y­W FREE WALKING TOUR As advertised, this outfit offers free English-language walking tours of the Old Town every day at 10:00 and14:00, leaving from the Barbican (D-2); and tours of Jewish Krakow at 10:30 and 13:30, leaving from the Old Synagogue (E-6). Both tours last about 2.5 hours and are given by professional licenced tour guides, so have some cash ready to tip these fine people. Check their website to see all the other free tours they offer. Qtel. (+48) 513 87 58 14, www.freewalkingtour.com. S-TOURS This family-owned outfit organises personalised guided tours of Kraków and the surrounding region for individuals, rather than standardised group trips. Airport transfers and accommodation can also be arranged. For more info and prices, contact them by email: guides@s-tours.pl.Qwww.s-tours.pl. WOW KRAKOW! Use WOW KRAKOW’s iconic red bus at your leisure, getting a guided tour of the town as it zips between 11 stops, where you can get off and on again as you wish. The bus runs from about 09:30 - 17:30, appearing at each stop every 45mins (exact schedule online).QD‑2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 601 50 21 29, www.wowkrakow.pl. Tickets 60/40zł for 24hrs, 90/70zł for 48hrs; 40/30zł if you just want the tour without getting on and off the bus; kids under 12 free. Free entry to the Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics Centre and Galicia Jewish Museum included in the price.

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Old Town TOURIST INFORMATION CRACOW CITY TOURS Also at Pl. Matejki 2 (D-1, open 07:30 - 17:00).QC‑2, ul. Floriańska 44, tel. (+48) 12 421 13 27, www. cracowcitytours.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue 10:00 - 19:00. Y DISCOVERCRACOW.EU Also a large location nearby on the corner of the market square at ul. Św. Jana 2 (C-3), and at Pl. Szczepański 8 (B-2). QB‑3, Rynek Główny 30, tel. (+48) 728 44 81 73, www. discovercracow.eu. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Y INFOKRAKÓW The official tourist info office run by the city of Kraków, with four other locations around the Old Town: ul. Św. Jana 2 (C-3), ul. Szpitalna 25 (D-2), ul. Powiśle 11 (B-5) and Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2 (C-4, Wyspiański Pavilion).QC‑3, Rynek Główny 1/3 (Cloth Hall), tel. (+48) 12 433 73 10, www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. JORDAN TOURIST INFORMATION & ACCOMMODATION CENTRE Also at ul. Długa 9 (C-1), the bus station (E-1) and ul. Gęsia 8 (Galaxy Hotel, K-3).QD‑2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60 91, www.krakowhelp.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. SEEKRAKOW Also in the train station (E-1, open 07:00 - 21:00), at ul. Grodzka 18 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:30), and Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:30).QC/D‑2, ul. Floriańska 6, tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, www.seekrakow. com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

TOURIST CARD The enterprising tourist should consider picking up the Kraków Tourist Card, a superb piece of plastic that allows you free entry to over 40 Kraków museums (that’s basically all of them, except Wawel), and free travel on trams and buses, day and night - including to and from the airport and Wieliczka Salt Mine. An impressive savings, two and three day cards are available, priced at 100zł and 120zł, respectively. Another option is the ‘Museum & Attractions Pass’ - essentially the same card without free transport, valid for three days, and priced at 70/60zł. Every venue listed in our guide which accepts the Kraków Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist Card Y symbol. Available at most tourist information offices, for a full list of vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com. iyp.me/polandblog

Cracow City Guides YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER IN POLAND

Professional, licensed city guides of Cracow and Małopolska region are inviting you to private tours.

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Half Day City Tour Half Day City tour and Jewish heritage Wieliczka Salt Mine private tour Auschwitz - Birkenau museum private tour

Also available: Full day city tour of Kraków, Zakopane (winter capital of Poland), Pope John Paul II tour, Jewish Heritage tour, Czestochowa tour, Ojcow tour

Contact: guides@s-tours.pl Office working hours: Mo-Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00

www.s-tours.pl

CARRIAGE RIDES If you’re wondering about the ever-popular antique horsedrawn carriages that line the market square, these handsome vehicles are available to hire for a leisurely sightseeing trot around town. Operated by a number of different companies, routes and prices are individually determined with the driver but the going rate starts from 100zł, the most popular route from the market square to Wawel Hill is generally 150zł (about 30mins), and you can expect to pay about 350zł if you carry on to Kazimierz. Most carriages fit 4-5 people and the number in your party has no bearing on the price. Unfortunately the drivers don’t disseminate any information about what you’re seeing along the way (see, you might need this guidebook after all); that bright idea hasn’t occurred to anyone yet. Still, it’s every girl’s dream to be lifted into one of these things, so be prepared. And don’t forget to ask the driver to take your picture; it’s the least they can do for the money.QC‑3, Rynek Główny, tel. (+48) 535 50 20 10, www.krakowskiedorozki.pl. Carriage rides are generally available every day 10:00 - 22:00, rain or shine. February - March 2017

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Old Town THE HEJNAŁ

CHURCHES With about 360 religious sanctuaries in this city, we’ve used a bit of discrimination in only listing the most remarkable and unavoidable of the bunch here. The following are all located sequentially along the Royal Route (p.72), while Kazimierz, Podgórze and Nowa Huta churches are listed in their respective sections. ST. MARY’S BASILICA After Tartar raids in the 13th century left the original church in ruins, St. Mary’s was rebuilt in Gothic style on its existing foundations and consecrated in 1320. In the early 15th century the towers took the iconic form they have today, when the northern tower was raised to 80m high and made into a watchtower for the city. It is from here that the hejnał mariacki - the city’s famous bugle call - is played every hour on the hour; don’t miss it.

One of the most captivating Cracovian traditions is the hejnał (pronounced “hey-now”) – a short, melodious bugle call played every hour, on the hour, in the four cardinal directions from the left tower of St. Mary Basilica (C‑3). For centuries it has been the job of local firemen to climb the 239 steps to the top of the tower, ring the church bell and perform the hejnał precisely on the hour. A source of pride and family heritage for the few men chosen to do it, the job requires not only great discipline, but also bravery as local legend would have it. The first written mention of the song dates all the way back to 1392, and though its exact origins are unclear, it was apparently used as a warning of fires or invasions. As the story goes, in 1241, as Tartar invaders crept near the city gates for a nefarious nocturnal attack, a night watchman saw them coming and played the signal from atop the defensive walls to arouse the slumbering city to arms. As he did so, an arrow pierced him through the throat, abruptly suspending the song in mid-melody. To this day, the tune likewise cuts off in mid-report to symbolise the city’s vigilance, and commemorate the lone guardsman who woke the city and thereby saved it. It’s a nice story, and since trumpet calls were used commonly across Europe during medieval times to open and close the city gates, its entirely conceivable that the legend is true. However, some have claimed that the story of the arrow-stricken trumpeter is a complete fiction made up in the 20th century. Polish journalist Leszek Mazan even went so far as to suggest that an American fabricated the whole ‘legend’ in 1929 (blasphemy!). Whatever its origin, any visitor or Cracovian will surely attest that the hejnał’s living tradition defines and shapes Kraków. In addition to pleasing visitors able to witness the bugle call live from the church tower every hour, the tune can also be heard all over Poland when it is broadcast live over the radio every day at noon.

Inside the altar, stained glass windows, and blue, starfilled ceiling of St. Mary’s will take your breath away. The magnificent wooden altarpiece was the principal work of 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz) for twelve painstaking years, and depicts the Virgin Mary’s Quietus among the apostles; note, however, that gradual conservation work on the altar is currently underway (projected to last until 2020), and not all elements may be on display during your visit. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by Polish masters Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiański done in the late 19th century. The church is available for worship without paying an entry fee via the main entrance. Tourists are asked to use a side entrance, however, and not visit during services; we list the tourist visiting hours below. Tickets (10/8/5zł) are purchased in a separate building across from the tourist entrance. Mariacki Tower is also open to tourists from March and an additional ticket is required (15/10zł; no admission for kids under 7; kids 7-12 must be accompanied by an adult).QC‑3, Pl. Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.mariacki.com. Open 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 18:00. Tower open from March on Thu, Fri, Sat only 09:00 - 11:10 and 13:10 - 17:30. Last entrance 15mins before closing. Y

St. Mary’s altarpiece

76 Kraków In Your Pocket

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Old Town

ST. ADALBERT’S CHURCH Kraków’s oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan at the southeast corner of the market square - a mad mix of pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. The earliest parts of the building date to the 11th century, thus pre-dating the Rynek and explaining why the floor sits some two metres below it. The best way to experience the church is during the frequent concerts by the Royal Chamber Orchestra. Notethat restoration work means only the Chapel of St. Vincent is currently accessible (open 08:30 - 17:00; no visiting during mass).QC‑3, Rynek Główny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52. Y ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA Kraków’s most colourful church, and our personal favourite, thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau interiors by native son Stanisław Wyspiański, which nicely balance the organic and geometric with unique floral patterns. Wyspiański also made the eight stained-glass windows around 1895, including the controversial and iconic centrepiece, ‘God the Father in the Act of Creation.’ Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis’ Basilica was the first brick building in the city and is well worth popping in, even for those who could care less for looking at another church.QC‑4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www. franciszkanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sun 13:00 15:00. No visiting during mass please. iyp.me/polandblog

CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL Kraków’s premier Jesuit Church was built in the early 1600s, and its crypt serves as the new national pantheon for Poles distinguished in the arts, science and culture (Sławomir Mrożek was the first interred here in September 2013). The twelve disciples standing on the gates outside are the church’s most striking feature, although the interior has been extensively renovated and the airy, austere grandeur of this late Renaissance building is now evident. Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist Leon Foucault in 1851 which proves the earth’s rotation, shows demonstrating its use generally occur on Thursdays at 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00, but check their website to be sure.QC‑4, ul. Grodzka 52A, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65, www.apostolowie.pl. Open 11:00 - 15:00. ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH St. Andrew’s offers the finest example of Romanesque architecture in Kraków. Built between 1079 and 1098, it has been a place of worship for 900 years and was used as a refuge and fortress during Tartar invasions. Most of the relics were looted anyway, making a trip inside a bit of a letdown. Remodelled by Baldassare Fontana during the mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century, note the pulpit which resembles a boat - typical of the Baroque style.QC‑4, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. Open by prior arrangement. February - March 2017

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Old Town THE ZBRUCH IDOL If you’re admiring Wawel Castle, you might notice the strange, battered sculpture in front of it at Plac Bernardyński. That’s a replica of the ‘Zbruch Idol,’ a rare and coveted archaeological treasure from the 9th century. Why so rare? This is one of the most important Slavic artefacts in the world - the only sculpture in existence believed to depict a Slavic god. For that reason, you’ll find replicas of the Zbruch Idol in many museums, however Kraków has the distinction of housing the original idol in its fine Archaeological Museum (p.80). ​Commonly associated with the god of war, Światowid, the deity didn’t do a very good job defending himself when crusaders tossed him into the Zbruch river during the Christianisation of the East Slav tribes in today’s Ukraine. Discovered during a drought near the village of Liczkowce in 1848, the narrow, four-sided, 2.7 metre high limestone pillar has three tiers of badly-weathered bas-reliefs etched on it. The bottom tier shows a kneeling, bearded figure supporting the upper tiers with his hands. The smaller middle tier shows a figure with arms extended, while the large top section has a head on each side, united under a Slavic nobleman’s hat. Each figure possesses a different object: a ring, a drinking horn and tiny child, a sword and horse, and a solar symbol. While interpretations differ, many believe these tiers represent the three levels of the world, with the largest being that of the gods. Others speculate the stone represents four separate Slavic gods, not one, while some claim the very fact that it is made out of stone, not wood, makes it altogether non-Slavic.QC‑5, Plac Bernardyński.

78 Kraków In Your Pocket

MONUMENTS ADAM MICKIEWICZ MONUMENT One of the most important statues in Poland, the large likeness of the romantic poet and national hero Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to celebrate the centenary of the great man’s birth, and, like so many other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the occupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygier’s original, and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place. Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (who’s most famous work, Pan Tadeusz begins with the words ‘Lithuania, my country!’ and who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas Mickevičius) never visited Kraków until 35 years after his death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just down the road at Wawel.QC‑3, Rynek Główny.

EROS BENDATO Among Kraków’s most well-known landmarks, this sculpture in the western corner of the market square is a popular meeting place and at some point serves as a photographic backdrop for almost every tourist who visits the city. Affectionately referred to as ‘The Head’, the bronze body part’s official title is ‘Eros Bendato’ (Eros Bound) and is the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944 - 2014). A student of Tadeusz Kantor at the Kraków School of Art, an exhibition of 14 of Mitoraj’s monumental works dressed the Rynek from October 2003 to January 2004, during which the artist gifted this work to the city, sparking controversy over what to do with it. Initially, the sculpture was designated for the square in front of Galeria Krakowska (E-2), but the artist was indignant about having his work in front of a commercial building. Despite protest from historians and many locals, the sculpture eventually found its current place near the Town Hall Tower, where it has become an unexpected tourist attraction. In summer, children can be seen crawling all over the hollow edifice, sticking their heads and limbs through the eyeholes for camera-snapping parents, though winter too often finds it profaned with trash and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of Mitoraj’s work will find another of his large sculptures – titled ‘Luci di Nara’ - adorning the charming courtyard of Collegium Luridicum (ul. Grodzka 53, C-4), and another in front of the Kraków Opera building (ul. Lubicz 48, E-2).QB‑3, Rynek Główny. iyp.me/krakow


Old Town GRUNWALD MONUMENT

Wikimedia Commons, user Zygmunt Put, CC BY-SA 1.0

The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint armies of Poland and Lithuania against the German-Prussian Teutonic Knights on July 15, 1410, was one of the largest battles of Medieval Europe, and is considered one of the most important military victories in Polish history. This weighty monument was unveiled in front of an estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary of the event in 1910. Unsurprisingly, Antoni Wiwulski’s original masterpiece was destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the copy you see today was made from his original sketches and models in 1976. At the top on his horse is Polish King Władysław Jagiełło, his sword pointing downwards in his right hand. At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army. The dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic Order’s Grand Master, who lost his life during the battle.QD‑1, Pl. Matejki. JAN MATEJKO MONUMENT Unveiled as recently as November 2013, this monument pays homage to one of Poland’s greatest painters, and one of Kraków’s most beloved sons. Famous for his epic and outsized historical paintings, which have been reproduced enough to become imprinted within the national psyche, Matejko’s work can be seen throughout Kraków from Collegium Novum to the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery in the Cloth Hall (p.80), to the monumental polychrome he did inside St. Mary’s Basilica in his final years. Educated in Kraków and later principal of the Academy of Fine Arts, Matejko also trained an entire generation of great Polish painters, including Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Malczewski. This impressive monument, which depicts the artist seated within a large picture-frame, is the work of Jan Tutaj, and located beside the Barbican along what was Matejko’s daily walk from his home to the Fine Arts Academy which now bears his name on nearby Plac Matejki (also named in his honour). To learn more about Matejko, visit his home and museum at ul. Floriańska 41 (p.80).QD‑2, ul. Basztowa. iyp.me/polandblog

„One of the best dining experiences we have ever had. This place deserves a michelin star!” James by krakow.inyourpocket.com

Kraków, ul. Grodzka 40 tel. +48 12 430 04 11 www.miodmalina.pl

February - March 2017

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Old Town THE CLOTH HALL The iconic showpiece at the centre of the market square, the origins and development of Kraków’s Cloth Hall can be traced as those of the city itself. Proof of a structure at this site dates back to the mid-13th century. When King Kazimierz the Great approved construction of a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14th century, Kraków’s importance as an east-west trading post vastly increased and the city thrived. Though the name ‘Sukiennice’ literally refers to textiles and fabrics, Kraków’s Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities bought and sold in its merchant stalls including wax, spices, leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from the nearby Wieliczka mines. After a fire in the mid-16th century, the Sukiennice was given a Renaissance facelift by Jan Maria Padovano, making it the most magnificent building in all of Kraków. By the mid-1870s, however, Poland had been partitioned for nearly a century and the Cloth Hall was in a rather sorry state; the Austrians tore down many of the outbuildings, and oversaw the addition of the neo-Gothic colonnades and outside arcades by Tomasz Pryliński, a student of Jan Matejko. The interior was converted into a series of wooden stalls and in 1879 the first Polish National Museum was established on the upper floor, making the Cloth Hall the focus of a huge upsurge of Polish patriotism. The 20th century saw much of the 19th century interior replaced, but by the start of the 21st century, it was again in need of attention in order to meet the standards of a modern museum or commercial area. From 2006 to 2010, the interiors were given a complete modernisation and the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.80) was reopened on the upper floor. The building’s sloped attics were converted into lovely terraces on the east side, where Cafe Szał now offers great views overlooking the market square and St. Mary’s Basilica. Opened in 2010, the subterranean Rynek Underground Museum (p.87) details the historical development of the area around the market square, and the historical 1910 Noworolski Cafe (p.58) on the ground floor boasts Art Nouveau motifs by Józef Mehoffer. A stroll through the tourist stalls in the Cloth Hall’s central thoroughfare is essential, after which you can claim that you’ve been in world’s oldest shopping mall.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 1/3, mnk.pl.

© Andrzej Rostek - dollar photo club

80 Kraków In Your Pocket

MUSEUMS The museums listed here are in the Old Town, while museums in Kazimierz (p.97), Podgórze (p.101) and Nowa Huta (p.108) are listed in their respective sections of the guide. 19TH CENTURY POLISH ART GALLERY

This magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting. Comprising four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small, giving proper attention to each piece, some of which are enormous and all of which are gorgeously framed. Almost everything by Jan Matejko here is rightly considered a national treasure, and the collection also includes works by Jacek Malczewski, Józef Chełmoński and Stanisław Witkiewicz, as well as Władysław Podkowiński’s famous ‘Frenzy’ from 1894. Like a small slice of the Louvre in Kraków, but without the crowds, one of the perks of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the market square. Recommended.QC‑3, Cloth Hall, Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 16/9zł, family ticket 26zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM Housed in an old monastery, the biggest highlight of the Archaeology Museum may be its beautiful garden (2zł charge if you aren’t visiting the museum) - a great place to relax with fantastic views of Wawel in the distance. As for exhibits, they are a bit dated, but the museum does boast the Zbruch Idol - the only sculpture of a Slavic god in existence, part of an exhibit on the prehistory of Małopolska. Other permanent exhibits include prehistoric pottery, Peruvian artefacts, and ancient Egypt - the latter best enjoyed with the aid of an audio guide (5zł). Additionally, you’ll find an exhibit on the history of the monastery and museum itself (separate ticket required, 4/3zł).QB‑4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 75 60, www.ma.krakow.pl. Open 09:00 15:00; Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/7zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions. N iyp.me/krakow


Old Town ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM OF CARDINAL KAROL WOJTYŁA John Paul II lived here, twice. Once as Karol Wojtyła, the young priest with a penchant for skiing (his skis are on show), and later as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms. The Archdiocesan doubles as a small but well-presented showcase of beautiful sacral art, some dating back to the 13th century. Among the items on display you will find presents to His Holiness from heads-of-state. All very nice, but the exhibition will only hold the attention of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors can expect to be tailed by overzealous curators. Guided tours available for individuals and groups up to 25 people in French, English and Polish. A second branch of this museum - the Wojtyła Apartment at ul. Tyniecka 10 (H-4) - shows the apartment where the future pope lived with his father in the late 1930s (open Wed, Sat, Sun only 10:00 - 14:00, free admission).QC‑5, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421 89 63, www. muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Guided tours 60zł. Y­N BISHOP ERAZM CIOŁEK PALACE Reopened after a 2015 renovation, this early 14th century palace holds three permanent exhibitions: Kraków At Your Fingertips, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th Centuries, and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic. The first is a depository of local architectural sculpture fragments, while the latter two consist almost entirely of sacral art from before the idea of ‘art’ was applied to non-religious subject matter (how many centuries did that take?). Most of it came directly out of Kraków’s own churches or others in the region, and is admittedly superb, if that’s your thing. If it’s not, it’s a bit of a snooze-fest. QC‑5, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 20, www. mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. U EUROPEUM CENTRE FOR EUROPEAN CULTURE Located in a 17th century granary on formerly-forgotten Sikorski Square, this branch of the National Museum was opened in 2013 and houses the city’s large collection of European painting and sculpture, in addition to hosting lectures, concerts and other events. Displaying Lorenzo Lotto’s 1507 The Adoration of the Infant Jesus - the consensus ‘most-valuable foreign work’ in the possession of Kraków’s National Museum, other highlights include John the Baptist Preaching by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, The Crucifixion by Paolo Veneziano, and more early Renaissance Italian paintings. While we’re happy to see this collection find a permanent home, those who have seen their share of European art museums can probably justify skipping it.QA‑3, Pl. Sikorskiego 6, tel. (+48) 12 433 57 60, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł; family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y iyp.me/polandblog

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Old Town THE PLANTY

Once the site of the city’s 13th century defensive fortifications, the moats were filled, the walls razed and the towers demolished - with the notable exceptions of the grand Floriańska Gate and impenetrable Barbican during Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19th century. While today it’s easy to regret the short-sighted destruction of Kraków’s medieval city walls, we can thank the Austrians for replacing them with this lovely strollway of greenery encircling the centre of the Old Town. Known as the ‘lungs of the city’, the Planty is one of Kraków’s most unique and charming features - three kilometres of public parks and gardens filled with trees, flowers, benches and historic monuments. Walking its circuit would take over an hour, but represents a great way to see the city. A popular place for street musicians to perform, drunks to drink (note that drinking in public will win you a fine from the police) and teenage couples to make out, if you haven’t smooched someone on a park bench in the Planty before leaving town, well then you haven’t finished your itinerary.QC‑4/5.

POLISH AVIATION MUSEUM Located on one of the oldest military airfields in Europe, this oft-overlooked, but highly regarded museum holds a premier collection of aircraft, artefacts and exhibits related not only to Polish, but world aviation history and heritage. The museum features a new exhibition building bursting with interactive displays and an extensive collection of historic aircraft, plus a cinema. The original exhibits in the airfield’s numerous hangars and out-buildings are stuffed with old photographs, engines, uniforms and plenty more airplanes, helicopters and gliders, while the yards surrounding them are literally littered Russian-built fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw Pact. While many of the displays are in Polish only, this is still a great outing (Dads love it) that can take the most of a day to explore thoroughly. A bit out of the centre, to get there take tram 52 from ‘Dworzec Główny’ (D-2) to ‘Muzeum Lotnictwa.’QAl. Jana Pawła II 39 (Czyżyny), tel. (+48) 12 642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/7zł, family ticket 34zł; Tue free. Y­U 82 Kraków In Your Pocket

HIPOLIT HOUSE The Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this fine building around the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th centuries, though the building dates back considerably further than that. The inside has been transformed into a series of recreations of typical Polish bourgeois living spaces from the 17th to early 20th century, and is interesting for the insights it gives into how the other half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly remarkable furniture and antiques. Worth a visit.QC‑3, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00; Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/7zł, family ticket 18zł. Wed free. Y­N

Hipolit House

Courtesy of History Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM Established in 1899, Kraków’s History Museum - also known as Krzysztofory Palace - has been undergoing an extensive transformation over the last several years, including the renovation of the 17th century Baroque building that houses it, the complete digitisation of the museum collection, and the preparation of a new ambitious permanent exhibit. The first part of the future permanent exhibit, titled Cyberteka. Kraków - Time & Space, is now open and chronicles the spatial and urban development of the city from its earliest beginnings until about 1915, via spiffy multimedia displays and 3D films (note this exhibit is free on Tues). Krzysztofory Palace is also home to a large museum shop with lots of souvenirs, posters, books and other information available.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 35, www.mhk. pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, family ticket 24zł. Y HOME ARMY MUSEUM This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick railway building has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass atrium) to house the Home Army Museum - documenting the size, organisation and efforts of Poland’s underground military resistance from the time of the failed September campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces official disbanding in 1945. The Home Army’s continuing fight for freedom within the country’s two occupied zones (Nazi and Soviet) is one of World War II’s less iyp.me/krakow


Old Town acknowledged aspects, and though this enormous museum goes to great length to demonstrate that Poland’s government, military and civilian population never surrendered, the sprawling exhibits are confusing and chaotically organised; as a result you may want to dish out the 100zł (plus ticket price) for a guided tour. Nevertheless it’s a must for those interested in WWII history, and you should reserve at least two hours for visiting.QJ‑1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70, www.muzeum-ak.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 13/7zł. Sun free for permanent exhibit. Y­U HUTTEN-CZAPSKI MUSEUM Located in a 19th century neo-Renaissance palace in the very centre of Kraków, this branch of the Kraków National Museum houses a comprehensive collection of Polish ‘numismatics’ - that is, antique Polish coins, banknotes and medals. The collection of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski, who once owned the place, also includes old books, manuscripts, maps and other national memorabilia from the medieval period to today. The displays are gorgeous and additional info (in Polish and English) about each artefact is conveyed via touchscreen computers. Guarded by a fantastic gargoyle out front, the palace and gardens have been stunningly restored, and April 2016 saw the opening of the Józef Czapski Pavilion - separate modern exhibition hall behind the main palace, and home to a biographical exhibit about Józef Czapski (artist, author, patriot and grandson of Emeryk), plus temporary exhibits. Your ticket is good for both, but despite the world-class displays, this one should probably be reserved for die hard Polish patriots with a fascination for coin collecting. Is that you?QA‑3, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, www.mnk. pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Y JAN MATEJKO HOUSE Jan Matejko was Poland’s greatest historical painter whose work and life is honoured in the house where he was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As well as some witty imaginings of Kraków medieval life, studies for gargoyles, and collections of Renaissance furniture and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejko’s life is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this relatively small museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Polish master, and a man of many parts, fans of Matejko should definitely visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.80) where many of his greatest works are displayed.QD‑3, ul. Floriańska 41, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 60, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Y iyp.me/polandblog

JAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITY

COLLEGIUM MAIUS Jagiellonian University’s oldest building (and one of the oldest in Kraków), Collegium Maius was built as the university’s main campus in the late 14th century, 36 years after the university’s founding. A century later it was redesigned as the late-Gothic structure surrounding the picturesque arcaded courtyard that has survived to this day. While professors lived and worked upstairs, it was in the ground floor lecture halls that Nicolaus Copernicus made doodles in the margins of his notebooks in the 1490s. Today a museum, hour-long guided tours of the interiors and exhibits are given in English Mon-Fri at 13:00 (16/12zł), while more basic 30-minute tours in English depart every 20 minutes (12/6zł); it is suggested, however, that you call or visit in advance to reserve yourself a place on a tour. Inside you’ll visit the lecture hall, common rooms, professors’ quarters, library and treasury, seeing some fabulous interiors, paintings, furniture, medieval scientific instruments, rectors’ maces and other university memorabilia along the way, as well as the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas. There is also a separate temporary exhibit entitled Science: Antiquated & Not-so-antiquated (rough translation; exhibit open 09:00 - 13:00; closed Sun. Admission 7/5zł). Another highlight of visiting is the courtyard clock, from which wooden historical figures appear and parade past to music from the mid-16th century every two hours between 09:00 and 17:00. The building’s courtyard also houses a gift shop and cafe.QB‑3, ul. Jagiellońska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00, last entrance at 14:20; Sat 10:00 - 14:00, last entrance at 13:30. Closed Sun. Admission 12/6zł (30min tour), 16/12zł (1hr tour); admission free for self-guided tours Sat 10:00 - 14:00. N February - March 2017

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Old Town KRAKÓW STREET ART

ul. Piwna 3A (J-4)

Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality; anyone who makes the strongly recommended visit to Kraków’s Poster Gallery (p.122) will easily discover why. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street graphics as well. And they do. In Kraków, as in other cities around PL, street art is currently going through a tidal wave of popularity, and in the last few years new street murals have become a common sight around Kraków’s city centre. More restaurants and businesses are turning to street artists to playfully embellish their public spaces, and city authorities have even taken the surprising step of sponsoring some large scale murals around the city centre. In fact, the emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in Kraków’s urban landscape between both sanctioned and unsanctioned works of ‘graffiti art’ and the prolific gang signs, slurs and football-related graffiti that city paint crews have targeted in their war on ‘vandalism.’ At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Kraków, and we’re making it even easier. On the maps in the back of our print guide we’ve marked street art locations with a spray can symbol , so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Kraków’s urban art. Not only that, but we’ve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at iyp. me/krakowstreetart so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and check out some of Kraków’s alternative artistic visions.

ul. Zwierzyniecka (A-4)

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JÓZEF CZAPSKI PAVILION Opened in April 2016, this modern building behind the Hutten-Czapski Palace is dedicated to Józef Czapski - an exiled Polish painter, writer, art critic, intellectual, and grandson of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski (whose famous coin collection is on display 100m away). The small permanent exhibit is a biographical look at his life via video interviews, archival materials and the personal effects he left to the city upon his passing in 1993. Though Czapski may be completely unknown, and his artistic-literary legacy difficult to ascertain, it is his role as a witness to history that makes this museum most worthwhile. Fantastic archival footage (subtitled in English) explains the evolving geopolitical climate in Europe during Czapski’s lifetime, and shape his story into one that represents not one man, but an entire generation of Poles - the educated class that was obliterated in the fields of Katyń and fires of the Warsaw Uprising, or somehow survived only to be exiled or imprisoned by the communist regime that followed WWII. Czapski’s story also reveals the almost disgusting cyclical nature of history and politics, and the destructive folly of nationalism - a lesson as necessary today as ever.

Photo MNK, Miroslaw Zak

Though small, it is easy to spend hours here exploring the multimedia exhibits, or sitting in the cafe. Tickets are also valid for the Hutten-Czapski Museum next door.QA‑3, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, www. mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Y JÓZEF MEHOFFER HOUSE Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 20th century’s artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating with Wyspiański on the interiors of numerous Kraków churches, as well as his own installations across Galicia. This, his house, was where the artists of the Młoda Polska (Young Poland) movement often met and is a delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings, Art Deco to impressionistera art and many sketches, designs and finished stained glass pieces that attest to his important artistic legacy. In warmer months you won’t find a more magical place iyp.me/krakow


Old Town

to relax and read a book than the hidden garden behind the house, presided over by Meho Cafe - one of the city’s best-kept secrets.QA‑2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 80, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y MANGGHA The Manggha Museum of Japanese Art & Technology has many hats - including performance hall, Japanese cultural centre, sushi bar and home to local legend Feliks Jasieński’s fabulous 6,500-piece collection of Japanese artefacts. Located on the Wisła riverbanks across from Wawel, the original exceedingly modern building was funded by legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda upon winning the Kyoto city prize in 1987; July 2015 saw the opening of the adjacent European - Far East Gallery, which has doubled the space for temporary exhibits, several of which are on at any given time (check their website for specifics). QB‑6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, www. manggha.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 35zł, kids 7-16 1zł (does not apply to groups), kids under 7 free, group ticket 100zł (5-30 people), Tue free. Guided tours 100zł. NATIONAL MUSEUM, MAIN BUILDING Far from being the shoeless peasants many cynical historians would have us believe, previous generations of Poles have in fact excelled in the arts, and the National Museum of Art in Kraków showcases many superb examples of their work. As well as a number of world-class temporary shows (for which separate tickets are required, admission varies), the museum also houses fine collections of Polish applied arts and weaponry, and its entire top floor is devoted to the permanent 20th-century Polish Art exhibition - a truly awesome collection showcasing the works of such visionaries as Kantor, Witkacy and Wyspiański (whose epic monument stands outside the entrance) that any gallery would be proud to own. Aside from perhaps Wawel, this is the iyp.me/polandblog

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Old Town KOŚCIUSZKO MOUND

History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the American War of Independence before inspiring a valiant Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedom-fighter was described by Thomas Jefferson as ‘the purest son of liberty that I have ever known.’ Upon his passing, such was the people’s love that they proposed to honour him with a monument in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak (p.102) and Wanda (p.109) - and to make it the grandest in Kraków. Construction of an artificial burial mound atop Bronisława Hill in Zwierzyniec began with a mass, followed by speeches; artefacts from Kościuszko’s illustrious life were placed, including soil from his many battlefields, before friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all ages brought soil from their villages to add to the mound. Though a committee was formed for its oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially completed in November 1823, Kościuszko Mound stands 34m high, 326m above sea level, and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains can be seen from the top. In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they used as a strategic lookout point. The Germans later threatened to level the entire site during WWII as they set about destroying all Polish national symbols (along with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were destroyed, the complex has been restored and significant engineering improvements have been made to ensure its longevity. Climbing to the peak is tiring work, but the panoramic views are a worthwhile reward. The surrounding fortifications also house two cafes, a radio station, chapel, restaurant, wax museum and five additional historical exhibitions. Admission to all exhibits is included with admission to the Mound. To get there take trams 1, 2 or 6 to ‘Salwator,’ from which it’s a lovely 1.6km walk up ul. Św Bronisława. The walk is all uphill though, so if you’re awaiting a hip replacement you might want to take bus 100 from there to the top instead. Or a cab from the Old Town is about 30zł.QF‑3, Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 16, www.kopieckosciuszki.pl. Mound open 09:00 until dusk. Exhibits open 09:30 - 14:30. Admission 12/10zł, family ticket 30-40zł. 86 Kraków In Your Pocket

largest museum in Kraków, so you’d be wise to focus on what you’re most interested in; to see it all would take the entire day. The museum also houses a small shop and cafe.QH‑3, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission for permanent exhibits 11/6zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Admission for temporary exhibits, and joint admission for permanent and temporary exhibits, varies depending on the exhibit. Y­U PHARMACY MUSEUM Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building, Kraków’s brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out over five floors and includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale reproductions of ancient apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really good display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of note is an exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who operated a pharmacy in the Kraków Ghetto during WWII. Overall, this surprising museum is a lot more interesting than it sounds.QC‑2, ul. Floriańska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.muzeumfarmacji.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:30, Tue 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6zł. N

Pharmacy Museum

POLONIA WAX MUSEUM Infiltrating Kraków’s market square under the pretence of World Youth Day, it now seems the city will continue to collect their rent money as long as they keep paying on time. As a result, locals and tourists alike are invited to a veritable Polish history lesson, meticulously arranged in wax and fibres, as you wind your way through thematically arranged rooms covering the interwar period, WWII, the 70s, 80s, 90s and up to modern times. Although rather patriotic, the collection isn’t limited to Polish characters; here you’ll also see up close (and be able to snap selfies with!) such wax museum stalwarts as Johnny Depp, Spiderman, Mother Teresa and three Popes. Prices are steep, but you can save 10zł off the entry fee by proving you liked their FB page.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 34, tel. (+48) 502 79 94 45, www.poloniawaxmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 30/20zł, family ticket (2+2) 20zł, children under 7 free, groups over 6: 15zł per person, groups over 12: 10zł per person. U iyp.me/krakow


Old Town RYNEK UNDERGROUND This hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visitors four metres under the surface of the market square to explore the recently excavated medieval merchant stalls that predate today’s Cloth Hall, and to experience the city’s entire history - from its first settlers right up today over the course of some 6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits. Because of the museum’s popularity, and the fact that it is limited to only 300 people at a time, timed tickets should be bought in advance to avoid long queues or the disappointment of no ticket availability. This can be done either online or from the information office confusingly located on the opposite side of the Cloth Hall from the museum entrance. The actual museum entrance is located on the side opposite St. Mary’s Basilica, of course, and once you’ve negotiated the scrum of getting inside your experience begins with a short film projected on a wall of smoke, before following the trail of truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what is essentially an archaeological site. Relying heavily on touch-screens and holograms, highlights include a fascinating look into life before Kraków received its charter and the market square was laid out, displays on trade and transport in the city, a fantastic area for kids that includes a performance by automated puppets, and the remains of an 11th-century cemetery replete with ‘vampire prevention burials’ (seriously). Visitors should also reserve time to view the excellent series of short, subtitled documentaries covering different ages of Krakow’s history at the end of the tour route. In addition to the multilingual displays, audio guides are available in English, German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish. QC‑3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www. mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00; Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Closed 2nd Mon of each month. Last entrance 75 minutes before closing. Admission 19/16zł, family ticket 38 zł, Tue free. Audioguide 5zł. Y

KRAKÓW NATIONAL MUSEUM Visitors should note that all branches of the National Museum are free on Sundays, and students under 26 (with proper ID) pay only 1zł all other days. Also, ambitious tourists can buy one ticket that is valid for all branches for six months for only 35/28zł; that’s a heck of a deal and includes the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery, Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace, Europeum, Hutten-Czapski Museum, Jan Matejko House, Józef Czapski Pavilion, Józef Mehoffer House, the National Museum - Main Building, and the Szołayski House. To learn about some of the current temporary exhibits in these museum branches, visit our Events section (p.22). iyp.me/polandblog

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Old Town TYSKIE BREWERY

SZOŁAYSKI HOUSE This well-located branch of the National Museum offers several temporary exhibits at any given time. On the ground floor is a small free exhibit that honours Kraków’s Grand Dame of poetry Wisława Szymborska by displaying articles collected from her apartment after her passing in 2012. Upstairs from March 10th is the exhibit ‘The Power of the Avant-Garde.’ The Tribecca cafe on the ground floor is also a great place to recharge the batteries, and the museum shop offers an array of artbooks.QB‑2, Pl. Szczepański 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Y­U

MUSEUM OF THE DUKE’S BREWERY IN TYCHY The Tyskie Brewery, located some 10km south of Katowice in the town of Tychy, has been brewing beer continuously for nearly 400 years. Originally German-owned, today Poland’s most famous brewery produces over 8,000,000 hectolitres of ale annually, and 14 varieties of beer, including Tyskie Gronie lager - Poland’s bestselling beer. The enormous historical brewing complex is one of Silesia’s architectural marvels, much of which is open to the public for guided tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a humorous and informative guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through the entire modern production process and the four-century history of the brewery, beginning in the Browarium (Brewery Museum). Housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic church built in 1902, this rather superb space combines modernity and tradition across several fascinating multimedia exhibits on the craft of brewing, serving and imbibing beer, and displays full of historical brewing equipment and beer paraphernalia. A 3D film also tracks the history of the Tyskie Brewery through the ages. Next your tour takes you through parts of the production plant, starting from the Old Brewery - an immaculately-preserved space filled with decorative tiles and WWI-era copper vats that have had modern brewing equipment cleverly fit inside them. Highlights include saucy tales from the socalled ‘Bachelors’ Quarters,’ a glimpse of the brewery’s own railway station and a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling plant. And of course it all concludes with a free pint in the on-site pub. Tours are available in Polish, English, German, Italian, Czech and Russian, and must be booked in advance. For an extra 20zł, take the extended Ducal Tasting School tour, which includes workshops and tastings with a beer expert. The easiest way to get to Tychy from Kraków is by car and the 85km journey takes about 1.5hrs. Alternatively, the train takes about 3hrs and involves a change in Katowice; the brewery is only a short walk from Tychy train station.Qul. Katowicka 9, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.tyskiebrowarium.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun, Last entrance 2.5 hours before closing. Visitors must be over 18 and should call in advance to book a place on the tour. Admission 15/10zł.

STAINED GLASS MUSEUM

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Located in the premises of S.G. Żeleński’s historic stained glass studio, this ‘living museum’ offers the truly unique opportunity of visiting an active stained glass workshop, where you’ll witness masters at work, learn the artistic process involved in producing large-scale glass installations, and see some superb designs and examples of finished works from throughout the over hundred-year history of the studio. Known as the ‘cradle of Polish stained glass art,’ Żeleński opened this studio in 1902 as a place for the best artists of the Młoda Polska/Art Nouveau era to meet and work, including such luminaries as Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Stefan Matejko (nephew of Jan). Many of PL’s most outstanding examples of stained glass were created here, and today the studio remains the largest of its kind in the country. Visiting is only possible with a guide and the approximately 45-min tour is offered hourly in Polish (at :30 past the hour) and English (on the hour); stained glass workshops (make your own souvenir!) can also be arranged (in Polish, English, French, Italian or German). The museum now also includes a cafe and gift shop where you can pick up beautiful stained glass pieces created on-site in the workshop. Absolutely worth a visit for fans of the medium, as well as Art Nouveau enthusiasts.QH‑3, Al. Krasińskiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, www.stainedglass.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Guided tours 32/24zł per person in English; 25/18zł in Polish. N iyp.me/krakow


Old Town ULICA POMORSKA (FORMER GESTAPO CELLS) Consisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska offers the most chilling museum experience in Kraków (which is saying something). Located in the Dom Śląski, or ‘Silesian House,’ this infamous building became the Kraków headquarters of the Gestapo during WWII, who converted its cellars into detention cells for the interrogation and torture of political prisoners. These cells have been preserved and are free and open to the public as the ‘Former Gestapo Cells’ - immediately to your right as you enter the courtyard. Though the attendant will encourage you to enter straight away, we recommend you begin with the building’s main exhibit ‘People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956,’ entered via a staircase in the corner of the courtyard. This ambitious and excellent exhibit takes visitors chronologically through the city’s not-so-distant past, illustrating the terror and tyranny of both the Nazi and Stalinist regimes in Kraków through an abundance of documents, photographs, audio recordings and other archival materials. From the first victims executed by the Nazis to the communist show trials of the mid50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed in vivid and sometimes distressing detail. While the broad, more traditional museum presentation of this history is affecting enough, the immediacy of the Gestapo cells is truly haunting. An unimaginable 600 inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners awaiting their fate remain intact and provide a shocking, sobering and undeniable account of the suffering of hundreds of Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you might expect, there are no fairy-tale endings here, so prepare yourself for the blunt force trauma of human tragedy. A worthwhile and memorable experience, reserve at least 90 minutes for visiting. Ulica Pomorska is a 20min walk from the market square, near the tram stop ‘Plac Inwalidów.’QH‑1, ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00; Thu 12:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/5zł, family ticket 14zł, Tue free. Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free. Y

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Wawel

Admiring the Renaissance courtyard at Wawel. | © efektstudio80 - dollarphotoclub

The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town (B-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, self-rule and not least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture dating from around the 14th century onwards, Wawel is the crown jewel of Kraków’s architectural treasures and required visiting for Poles and foreigners alike. Even for those who know or care little about the country’s past, Poland’s ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that can’t fail to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of which the former contains most, but by no means all of the exhibitions, Wawel’s must-see highlights include the Cathedral’s mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse of Poland’s very own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury and, weather permitting, a leisurely stroll around its courtyards and gardens. After the April 2010 Smoleńsk disaster, Wawel’s Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which is hard work but comes with its own rewards, can take an entire day.

Read more about Wawel online: iyp.me/wawel 90 Kraków In Your Pocket

WAWEL CASTLE Wawel’s prominence as a centre of political power predates the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle before Poland’s first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences. The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Władysław the Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of them added their own architectural details to the building. The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish several buildings including a number of churches on the site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on a number of occasions, with the huge ongoing renovation works that continue to this day being halted for a number of reasons, most famously when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Today’s Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained within do much to contribute to Kraków’s rightful status as a truly world-class city.QB‑5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 22 422 51 55 (ext.219), www.wawel.krakow.pl. iyp.me/krakow


Wawel STATE ROOMS The main exhibition of Wawel Castle’s interiors, the spectacular State Rooms include several rooms on the ground floor - all of which have retained their magnificent Renaissance-era timber ceilings - and the guest apartments on the second floor. These are the rooms where the royals once entertained, held court, conducted sessions of the Senate, and hosted guests. Full of luscious oil paintings, intricate 16th-century tapestries, and some truly extraordinary wallpaper, highlights include the Senator’s Hall - the largest room in the castle, which hosted the first royal wedding back in 1518, and the Envoys’ Room - complete with 30 wooden heads on the coffered ceiling (originally there were 194!) and an original throne that really brings the majesty of Poland’s past to life. Absolutely worth visiting, give yourself at least 40mins to take in all the extravagance. QC‑5, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30 16:00; Sun 10:00 - 16:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 16/9zł; Sun free (but ticket still required). ROYAL PRIVATE APARTMENTS The Royal Private Apartments are basically a continuation of the State Rooms tour of the castle’s interiors, and equally stunning, however these rooms can only be accessed on a specially conducted guide tour (available in English or Polish only). Consisting of the royal bedchambers and guest rooms, these rooms on the first floor reveal how the royals lived and arranged their private lives. Packed with delightful Gothic and Renaissance details, your 40-60min guided tour will include the wonderful Guest Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch wood ceiling, and the charmingly-named, but mysterious ‘Hen’s Foot’ - two small rooms inside the 14th-century Belvedere Tower, which offer great views of Kraków’s Old Town, but whose original function is unknown.QC‑5, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30 - 16:00; closed Mon, Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 21/16zł. CROWN TREASURY & ARMOURY Containing Poland’s very own equivalent of the Crown Jewels among its many wonders, the Crown Treasury & Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the world of the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent. To the left, the Crown Treasury features several glass cases of golden and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins and other marvels, of which Szczerbiec - the country’s original coronation sword - is the ultimate highlight. To the right the Armoury contains a wealth of weaponry including some exceedingly swanky crossbows and a frightening array of spiky pikes, while the cellar holds a collection of cannons and replicas of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald. Be aware that due to conservation works, the number of tickets for sale is limited.QC‑5, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 16/9zł. iyp.me/polandblog

WAWEL VISITOR CENTRE Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets for the exhibition you want to see at least one day before you visit. Tickets should be collected at the Wawel Visitor Centre Reservation Office at least 30mins before the reserved tour time. All exhibits are self-guided except for the Royal Apartments, however foreign language guides can be arranged at extra cost if done in advance. In addition to ticket sales and pick-up, the Visitor Centre is also the place to get more info about various seasonal and theme tours on offer, pick up free maps or make use of the small post office, gift shop, cafe/restaurant and toilets.QB‑6, Wawel 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. From March open 09:00 - 18:00. LOST WAWEL Essentially an archaeological and architectural reserve, the smartly conceived and executed exhibits here focus on the restored remains of the Rotunda of the Blessed Virgin Mary - Kraków’s first church, and the most well-preserved pre-Romanesque church in PL, as well as the former royal kitchens and coach house. Visitors will also see several lapidariums of early stonework, a collection of colourful Renaissance tiles, scale models, and virtual reconstructions of what Wawel Hill looked like over one thousand years ago. Be aware that due to conservation works, the number of tickets for sale is limited.QC‑5, Wawel 5, www.wawel. krakow.pl. Open 09:30 - 16:00; Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/7zł; Sun free (but ticket still required - check ticket office for availability). ORIENTAL ART This exhibit in the western wing of the castle comprises art from the Near East which was highly prized and fashionable amongst the Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via military and trade contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea. Visitors will see unique collections of Chinese ceramic and Japanese porcelain, but the part of the exhibit that makes it essential are the trophies, banners, weapons and other artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski III’s famous victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683, including Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Para’s sabre. Be aware that due to conservation works, the number of tickets for sale is limited.QC‑5, Wawel 5, www. wawel.krakow.pl. Open 11:00 and 14:00 only. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 7/4zł.

/polandinyourpocket February - March 2017

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Wawel LADY WITH AN ERMINE Kraków’s prized art piece is this Leonardo Da Vinci canvas - one of only three Da Vinci oil paintings in the world, and a sentimental favourite of Poles, reproduced and hung in many a home. Leonardo’s Lady has a chequered history; when she isn’t entertaining she always seems to be on the run or in hiding somewhere. For centuries she was off the map completely, before having a rendezvous with Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Italian holiday in 1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought her home to his native Poland, where she was part of the family until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876 moving into what would become her official address in Kraków’s Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans rescued her and returned her to Kraków where she is today one of the city’s most beloved treasures. Leonardo’s Lady will be on display at Wawel until its proper home in the Czartoryski Museum is reopened after renovation. Exhibited on its own alongside in depth information about its complicated history and authenticity, the priceless painting requires a separate admission ticket and absolutely shouldn’t be missed. QC‑5, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/8zł; Sun free (but ticket still required; check ticket office for availability).

CATHEDRAL TICKETS The Cathedral and the Castle have different ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased only in the ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral entrance. While entrance to the actual cathedral itself is free you will need a ticket to enter the adjoining Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower. A single ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral Museum. Audioguides are recommended to make the most of the experience, and can be rented here for 7/5zł (in Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech, French and Hungarian).QB‑5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 - 16:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7zł. Note that the Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your ticket is valid to visit another day. 92 Kraków In Your Pocket

Wawel Cathedral

© vesta48, Adobestock

WAWEL CATHEDRAL The scene of the crowning of almost every Polish king and queen throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral is the third to be built on the site. The first cathedral was built of wood, probably around 1020, but certainly after the founding of the Bishopric of Kraków in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathedral that subsequently burnt down again. The current building was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of Poland’s first king to be crowned at Wawel, Władysław the Short (aka. Władysław the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor in 1319. Considered the most important single building in Poland, Wawel’s extraordinary Cathedral contains much that is original, although many glorious additions have been made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that of its cousin St. Mary’s on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for its visual shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop of Kraków, St. Stanisław (1030-1079), a suitably grand monument dedicated to the controversial cleric after whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about as ostentatious as you’re ever likely to see, of particular interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right as you enter and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss’ 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The Royal Crypts offer a cold and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place of kings and statesmen – most recently former president Lech Kaczyński – while at the top of a gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast, 12.6 tonne Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly be heard 30km away.QB‑5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. CATHEDRAL MUSEUM Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtyła just before he became Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum features a wealth of religious and secular items dating from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups and downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable possessions is the sword deliberately iyp.me/krakow


Wawel snapped into three pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) - the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all manner of coronation robes and royal insignias to boot.QB‑5, Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. SIGISMUND BELL Follow the crowds up many gruelling flights of stairs to reach the infamous Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol of Polish nationalism ala Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell. The largest of five bells hanging in the same tower, Sigismund’s Bell weighs in at an astounding 12.6 total tonnes (9650 kgs just for the bell itself ), measures 241cm in height, 242cm in diametre and varies from 7 to 21cm thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national holidays, as well as significant moments in history (like the funeral of late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife) the bell’s peal can be heard 30km (186 miles) away and is quite an enterprise to ring, requiring twelve bell-tollers who are actually lifted from the ground by the bell’s force. The entrance is within the Cathedral and tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at the ticket office across from the Cathedral entrance.QB‑5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. ROYAL CRYPTS While all Poland’s pre-16th kings were buried beneath or within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of nine more Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their children thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom itself ), the honour was extended to statesmen with Prince Józef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kościuszko (1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Słowacki (1923), Józef Piłsudski (1935) and General Władysław Sikorski (1993) all securing themselves a place here. Most recently - in April of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy in Smoleńsk; admission to their tomb (and that of Piłsudski) is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century St. Leonard’s Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL; the exit deposits you back outside.QB‑5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. iyp.me/polandblog

THE WAWEL DRAGON

Standing on the Wisła riverbank in the shade of Wawel Castle (B-6) is a rather ugly likeness of the Wawel Dragon (Smok Wawelski), who - according to local legend - once reposed in the large cave behind him when not out and about in town scarfing up virgins and sheep. Finally vanquished when he was tricked into eating a bag of sulphur, this monument in his honour was unveiled in 1972 to a design by the local artist Bronisław Chromy. Extremely popular with the kids you’ll find climbing all over it, it was once possible to send Smok an SMS which would send him into fits of fire-breathing bliss, however he now does it without checking his phone first, so just be patient and don’t look down his throat. Outside the entrance of Wawel Cathedral (B-5), you may also notice an odd collection of massive bones chained up on the left outside the entrance. While legend obviously purports these to be the bones of Wawel’s fearsome dragon, more conventional wisdom has claimed they might be parts belonging to a blue whale, woolly mammoth, rhinoceros, or all three. At any rate, they haven’t been removed and inspected for centuries due to their magical properties, which are credited with protecting the city from destruction during centuries of Polish partition and particularly during WWII when almost every other major city in Poland got pancaked.QB‑6. February - March 2017

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Kazimierz

Mural at Plac Bawól 3 in Kazimierz, dedicated to the Bosakóws- a Jewish family which occupied the building for over 400 years.

Kazimierz – the district south of the Old Town between the Wisła River and ul. Dietla (where a tributary of the Wisła once flowed) was the centre of Jewish life in Kraków for over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed during World War II. In the communist era it became one of Kraków’s dodgiest districts while gradually falling into disrepair. Rediscovered in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the regime and worldwide exposure through the lens of Steven Spielberg, Kazimierz began its rebound and is today arguably Kraków’s most exciting district – a bustling, bohemian neighbourhood packed with historical sites, atmospheric cafes and art galleries. Well-known for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, traces of Kazimierz’s Jewish history have not only survived, but literally abound in the form of the district’s numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries. In fact, no other place in Europe conveys a sense of pre-war Jewish culture better than Kazimierz. As a result, the district has become a major tourist draw and pilgrimage site for Jews, and contemporary Jewish culture has gradually returned to prove that there’s more to Kazimierz than just sepia photographs and old synagogues. In addition to Jewish culture, however, here you’ll find the heart of Kraków’s artistic, bohemian character behind the wooden shutters of dozens of antique shops and art galleries. Peeling façades and obscure courtyards hide dozens of bars and cafes, many affecting an air of prewar timelessness. Centred around the former Jewish square now known as Plac Nowy, Kazimierz has emerged as the city’s best destination for café culture, street food and nightlife. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities, Kazimierz is an essential point of interest to any visitor. 94 Kraków In Your Pocket

WHAT TO SEE Intimate and perfectly walkable, to get a feel for the area start your tour of Kazimierz at the top of ulica Szeroka, coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). More a square than an actual street, Szeroka conveys the sense of a medieval marketplace; indeed it was here that Kazimierz’s first Jewish merchants settled, and the square is bookended by two of the city’s most important synagogues - the Old Synagogue (p.98) and the Remuh Synagogue (p.99), whose historic cemetery extends to ul. Miodowa and ul. Jakuba; beside the entrance of the latter you’ll find a monument of Jan Karski - ‘Righteous Among the Nations’ for his efforts to alert the Western Allies of the Nazi genocide during WWII. Ul. Szeroka 6 (now the Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant, p.44) formerly housed the Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that gained notoriety in 1567 when the wooden floor collapsed and ten women drowned. Nearby beneath a ring of maples at the street’s northern end is a memorial and “Place of meditation upon the martyrdom of 65,000 Polish citizens of Jewish nationality from Cracow.” Today ul. Szeroka’s picturesque cobbled lanes are primarily lined with businesses and restaurants tastefully aimed at tourists, including Rubinstein (ul. Szeroka 14) – so named because the ‘Queen of Cosmetics’ was born next door at number 14, and Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (‘Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz,’ ul. Szeroka 1, p.44), with its row of faux Jewish shop fronts; next door you’ll find Jarden (ul. Szeroka 2), the area’s first Jewish bookstore. Taking a right onto ulica Józefa just past the Old Synagogue, you’ll find the High Synagogue (p.97) at number 38, so called because the prayer room was located iyp.me/krakow


Kazimierz on the first floor. Today it houses the Austeria bookshop and a small exhibition space with rotating historical exhibits about the history of Poland’s Jewish population. Along this block of ul. Józefa you can easily spot indentations left by mezuzahs, and a Hebrew inscription on the building next door to the High Synagogue. Make a right onto ul. Kupa (literally ‘Poop Street’ in English, at least that’s the PG version) to visit the Isaac Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18, E-6, p.97), whose restored interiors now house a permanent exhibition titled ‘In Memory of Polish Jews’ and a small shop selling kosher food. In 1939 a member of the synagogue committee was executed inside these halls after refusing to set fire to it. At the end of ul. Kupa at ul. Warszauera 8 (D-6) is the 17th century Kupa Synagogue (p.98), whose northern wall was flush with the medieval Kazimierz defensive walls which can still be seen from the other side on ul. Miodowa. It’s a short walk down ul. Warszauera from there to Plac Nowy, (D-6, p.98), formerly known as ‘Plac Żydowski’ (Jewish Square) and still today the district’s bustling epicentre, lined with bars, cafes and street food stalls. To continue your tour head west out of the square down ul. Meiselsa (D-6) to find what many regard as Kraków’s most picturesque passageway on your left, which should be immediately recognisable to many as the backdrop of dramatic scenes from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List. Along the way you’ll pass the Judaica Foundation (p.99) at ul. Meiselsa 17 and arguably Kraków’s best beer garden (Mleczarnia) if you’re here during the warm season. While on your Jewish culture crawl of Kazimierz do also put aside time to visit the Temple Synagogue (ul. Miodowa 24, D-6, p.99), Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwór 18, E-6, p.97) and New Jewish Cemetery (ul. Miodowa 55, E-6, p.98) – all of which are nearby and essential points of interest. Kazimierz is not exclusively Jewish, however, with several noteworthy Catholic churches moored in the district. The most noteworthy is Skałka (ul. Skałeczna, C-7, p.96), where Bishop Stanisław of Szczepanów, was murdered and then quartered at the whim of King Bolesław the Bold; a blood-splattered stump can allegedly be seen beside the altar. Stanisław went on in death to become the patron saint of Poland, and Skałka is also the final resting place of local heroes Czesław Miłosz and Stanisław Wyspiański. Kazimierz is also home to some of Kraków’s most popular museums; both the Museum of Municipal Engineering (ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 15, E-7) and Ethnographic Museum (Plac Wolnica 1, D-7) are good choices for taking the kids and keeping them entertained (p.97).

TOURIST INFORMATION INFOKRAKÓW KAZIMIERZ Information on what to see and what’s going on in Kazimierz.QD‑6, ul. Józefa 7, tel. (+48) 12 354 27 28, www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. iyp.me/polandblog

USEFUL CONTACTS JEWISH COMMUNITY The Jewish Community of Kraków is over 700 years old and currently has around 140 members tasked with maintaining Kraków’s Jewish culture, religious sites, and organising community events and gatherings. Shabbat services now take place every Friday in the Remuh Synagogue (ul. Szeroka 40, E-6).QD‑6, ul. Miodowa 27, tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow. jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE The headquarters of Kraków’s strengthening Jewish community. JCC organises numerous events (check their website or FB for details), exhibits and tours. Walkins are always welcome, but if you want to participate in a Shabbat dinner you need to contact them a few days in advance.QD‑6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 75, www.jcckrakow.org. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JUDAICA FOUNDATION This civic and cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits reflecting Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe.QD‑6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. February - March 2017

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Kazimierz PLAC WOLNICA

Ethnographic Museum

Visiting today, it’s hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once equal in size and stature to Kraków’s Rynek Główny. When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek Kazimierski) upon the town’s establishment in 1335, this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter on each side than Rynek Główny) making it the second largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was here that all the administrative and judicial authorities of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once was, today’s Plac Wolnica covers only a small fragment of the square’s original size. Fortunately the Town Hall which stood at its very centre has managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierz’s incorporation into Kraków in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo-Renaissance style in the late 19th century. A curious plaque on the building commemorates the arrival of the Jews to Poland in the Middle Ages, and since WWII the Town Hall has housed the Ethnographic Museum. Perhaps ironically given its former status, urban revitalisation was slower to reach Plac Wolnica than the once predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy, but the square has caught up. Hosting an increasing number of cultural events, and with cafes and restaurants having sprouted up all around its edges - as well as down ul. Mostowa, which leads straight from Plac Wolnica to the pedestrian bridge connecting it to Rynek Podgórski - this historic square has re-earned a rightful place on any tour of the district.QD‑7.

Inside the Ethnographic Museum

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CHRUCHES CORPUS CHRISTI CHURCH This massive brick beauty from the 14th century takes up two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it one of the city’s largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic style, the pulpit features a golden boat (with oars and a mast even) being held aloft by two mermaids. And though there are few things we like more than mermaids, the crowning glory has to be the towering golden altarpiece. According to legend, a robber who had stolen a precious relic from another church repented on this spot, abandoning the reliquary. The priests in pursuit saw a strange light emanating from the ground and discovering their sacred prize, founded a church here in recognition of the miracle.QD/E‑6/7, ul. Bożego Ciała 26, www.bozecialo.net. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.

SKAŁKA & THE PAULINE MONASTERY This gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most important religious sites in Poland. It was here that the Bishop of Kraków, Saint Stanisław of Szczepanów, was beheaded on the order of King Bolesław II; soon after, the king was exiled and the royal family fell under a curse. To appease the spirit of the wronged bishop, the family rebuilt this church and made annual pilgrimages here from Wawel to atone for the murder - a tradition which continues to this day each May 8th. Since 1472 a monastic order of Pauline Fathers has resided at Skałka, and in the 18th century the church received a Baroque refurb, which endures to this day. Stanisław was canonised in 1253, becoming the patron saint not only of Kraków, but of Poland. Inside an altar marks the place where he was killed and includes the wood stump upon which he is said to have been quartered. The pool where his remains were thrown still stands outside the church, elegantly adorned with a 17th century sculpture of the saint, and its waters are said to have healing properties. In 2008, the ‘Three Millennia Altar’ was built in the courtyard of the church, which features four-metre monuments of St. Stanisław, St. John Paul II, St. Faustyna, St. Jadwiga, St. Adalbert, St. Jan Kanty, and Abbot Augustyn Kordecki. The crypt at Skałka (open by request only) is also a national pantheon for distinguished Poles, and includes the remains of writer Czesław Miłosz, painters Stanisław Wyspiański and Jacek Malczewski, among others.QC‑7, ul. Skałeczna 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44, www.skalka.paulini.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please. iyp.me/krakow


Kazimierz JEWISH SIGHTSEEING GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM With the name referring to the ethnically diverse northernmost province of the Austrian Habsburg Empire, which existed from 1772-1918 and extended from Kraków to Ternopil, this popular museum keeps the memory of Jewish life in southern Poland and western Ukraine alive via hundreds of photographs documenting former Jewish sites in Galicia today. The images of forgotten cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential part of any Kazimierz tour. The converted warehouse also houses small temporary exhibits, a large bookstore selling a range of titles of Jewish interest, a cafe, information point, and a garden next door for events.QE‑6, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42, www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 16/11zł, family ticket 30zł, children under 7 free. Guided tours available (in English, French and German) for individual and groups if arranged in advance. Y­U HIGH SYNAGOGUE The third oldest synagogue in Kraków, the High Synagogue was completed in 1563, and is unique for having its prayer room upstairs; it’s widely theorised that this was a safety precaution to protect the congregation from unfriendly neighbours. The design didn’t save it from being the subject of arson during WWII sadly, and today no furnishings remain. The upstairs prayer room has retained some original details, however, including the Holy Ark, two golden griffins have survived above the Aron Kodesh, and some of the murals have been restored. The size of the high-ceilinged room and quality of those details that do remain indicate that this was a magnificent space before its destruction. Today admission is paid to go upstairs to the prayer room, where visitors will also see a small temporary museum exhibit. On the ground floor is a large bookstore with books of Jewish interest in a variety of languages.QE‑6, ul. Józefa 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Note that opening hours may be subject to change. Admission to upstairs exhibit 9/6zł, children under 10 free. ISAAC SYNAGOGUE The Isaac Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from a wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. The design is decoratively endowed with arabesques and arches, yet retains a sober linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher food, sweets, Jewish calendars and other items, and around the back you’ll find Szalom Falafel - Kraków’s only kosher fast food restaurant (ul. Jakuba 21, open 10:00 - 21:30, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, closed Sat). From March klezmer concerts will again take place here Thu & Sun at 18:00 (60/40zł).QE‑6, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.pl. Open 08:30 - 18:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat. Admission 7/4zł. iyp.me/polandblog

MUSEUMS ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Founded in 1911 inside Kazimierz’s former Town Hall, this often overlooked museum offers wonderful and charming insight into Polish folk culture and rural traditions, including beautiful recreations of 19th-century peasant interiors, folk costumes and instruments, and extraordinary examples of local nativity cribs (‘szopki’). A new exhibit called ‘Od-nowa’ (Anew) focusses on rural rituals of spring in Poland (painted Easter eggs and palms), while ‘Unattainable Earth’ guides visitors through hundreds of works of folk art via the words of Czesław Miłosz (taken from his poem of the same name). With exhibits sufficiently explained in English, those that visit here will be happily rewarded. Dom Esterki - a separate gallery for changing exhibits - can also be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46.QD‑7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 60 23, www.etnomuzeum.eu. Open 10:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 13/7zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y­U MUSEUM OF MUNICIPAL ENGINEERING This charming museum inside an old tram depot actually features five separate permanent exhibitions, plus temporary exhibits. The first two permanent exhibits deal with the history of public transport in Kraków and the development of the Polish automotive industry through a hangar full of old tram cars and trolleys and a large collection of unique wheeled vehicles, the third explores the history of printing in Kraków from the 15th to 20th centuries, the fourth is a look at engineering feats in the city, while ‘Around the Circle’ teaches kids fundamental scientific principles via 30 hands-on play stations. More fun than it sounds and recommended for families, the science exhibit will hold kids’ interest long enough for Dad to look at cars, while Mom dreams of escaping on that motorbike. QE‑7, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 29zł. Y­U

Courtesy of Museum of Municipal Engineering

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Kazimierz PLAC NOWY

While Kraków’s main square, Rynek Główny, makes all the postcards and photographs, it is Plac Nowy in Kazimierz that has emerged as the spiritual centre of Kraków subculture. Lacking the splendour of the Old Town, Plac Nowy is, if anything, something of an eyesore – a collection of unkempt buildings surrounding a concrete square filled with chipped green market stalls and rat-like pigeons flapping about. If you want something completely different from the Old Town, however, here it is. Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th century, Plac Nowy (New Square) didn’t really begin assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its central landmark, the Okrąglak (rotunda), added as late as 1900. For generations this square was referred to by locals as Plac Żydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it the primary marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the rotunda served as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation. Today butcher shops still occupy the interior, but the real activity is outside where hungry locals of every ilk line-up in front of hole-in-the-wall food hatches to enjoy the best ‘zapiekanki’in Poland. Essentially a French bread pizza with the toppings of your choice, visiting Kraków without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness. Merchant stalls surround the rotunda, and you’ll find something happening here daily from 7:00 in the morning until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets and random rubbish are constant guarantees but weekly highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays, Sunday’s clothing market, and Friday morning’s bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo essay waiting to happen, arrive between 05:30 and 07:30 to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle, ‘How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?’ As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl circuit (see page 64). Full of shambolic charm, veteran boozers Singer and Alchemia put Plac Nowy on the nightlife map, and remain two of the square’s best bets for candlelit, pre-war mystique, while down the road (ul. Meiselsa) dark and arty Mleczarnia boasts the city’s best beer garden. In recent years the bars on offer have begun to diversify, but the fact of the matter remains that this bohemian outpost is Kraków’s most interesting and exciting nightlife destination.QD‑6. 98 Kraków In Your Pocket

KUPA SYNAGOGUE This rather unfortunately-named synagogue was founded in 1643, using funds from the local kahal/qahal (mi-kupat ha-kahal) - the autonomous Jewish government - which we’re told explains where the name ‘Kupa’ comes from, but doesn’t change the fact that it translates to ‘poop’ in Polish (oh well). Designed in the Baroque style with a square prayer room, the synagogue shared a wall with the original Kazimierz city defensive walls, which can be seen from ul. Miodowa. Undergoing several renovations and expansions over the centuries, the synagogue was connected to the adjacent building in the 19th century and meticulously restored in 2000. The richly decorated interior features paintings of Biblical scenes and holy places done by an unknown artist in the 1920s.QD/E‑6, ul. Warszauera 8 (entrance from Miodowa 27), tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open​ 10:00 - 16:00; Fri 10:00 - dusk. Closed Sat. Admission 5/3zł. NEW JEWISH CEMETERY This enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was the burial ground for many of Kraków’s distinguished Jews in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a darker aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population between 1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are actually no more than memorials to entire families that were killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters. The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the walls of the New Cemetery, but there are many newly-lit candles burning over the headstones. An undeniably evocative place for a reflective walk, please cover your head upon entry.QE‑5, ul. Miodowa 55. Open 1​ 0:00 - 16:00; Fri 10:00 - dusk. Closed Sat.

The Old Synagogue

kilhan / Dollar Photo Club

OLD SYNAGOGUE Built on the cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, this is the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious architecture in Poland, and home to a fine series of exhibits that showcase the history and traditions of Polish Judaism. The English explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on the reader’s part and are therefore a perfect primer on the subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are also iyp.me/krakow


Kazimierz changing temporary exhibitions, and the bookshop sells a fine selection of works related to Jewish Kraków in a number of languages.QE‑6, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł, Mon free. Y REMUH SYNAGOGUE & CEMETERY Dating from 1553, this is Kraków’s smallest but most active synagogue, with Shabbat services once again taking place here each Friday following the recent completion of restoration works. The synagogue was established by the family of famous 16th century Polish rabbi Moses Isserles - better known as ‘the Rema,’ based on a Hebrew acronym, and is unique for the proximity of the Old Jewish Cemetery adjacent to it. In use until 1800, this holy burial ground fell into utter ruin during Nazi occupation with only a dozen tombstones surviving WWII in their original state; among them was that of Rabbi Moses Isserles, which many interpreted as proof of his miraculous power. After the war the cemetery was ‘tidied up’ with many of the intact tombstones being rearranged in straight rows, and fragments of those which could not be restored used to create a ‘wailing wall’ along ulica Szeroka. Today the cemetery and synagogue - whose modestly decorated interior features a reconstructed bimah and restored ceiling motifs - are an important pilgrimage site for devout Jews from all over the world.QE‑6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35. Open 0​ 9:00 - 16:00; Fri 09:00 - dusk. Closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł. TEMPLE SYNAGOGUE Kazimierz’s newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with several later expansions, the most recent of which was in 1924. Under Nazi occupation the building was used as a warehouse and stables, yet survived the war and regular services were even held here until 1968, before stopping completely a decade later. Since restoration, the gilded woodwork within now plays host to many concerts and occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the annual Jewish Festival of Culture.QD‑6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. Open ​10:00 - 16:00; Fri 10:00 dusk. Closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł.

Temple Synagogue

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Photo by Artur Turyna, wawel.net

BERNATEK FOOTBRIDGE Opened in 2010, the Father Bernatek Footbridge straddles the Wisła River just south of the centre, linking the districts of Kazimierz and Podgórze. The © dziewul, AdobeStock 130m-long structure accommodates both pedestrians and cyclists with its twin walkway design by local architect Andrzej Getter, and though a source of controversy during its development, is now a beloved part of the urban landscape, both for its convenience and aesthetic appeal. The bridge has played a key role in the revitalisation of the area it connects between Plac Wolnica and Rynek Podgórski, which is now not only an ideal route for an alternative pub crawl, but also a romantic stroll. It’s here that Cracovian couples have adopted the unoriginal tradition of attaching padlocks engraved with their names to the railings of the bridge, before throwing the keys into the Wisła (while the rest of us throw up in our mouths) as evidence of their unbreakable bond and commitment to each other. At the moment, the bridge is adorned with nine acrobatic gravity-defying sculptures by Jerzy Kędziora, which we hope stay there forever. QJ-4. February - March 2017

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Podgórze

Podgórze’s crown jewel: St. Joseph’s Church.

When Spielberg came to Kraków to produce his awardwinning film Schindler’s List, the result was a fast and far-reaching revitalisation of Kazimierz, Kraków’s former Jewish district. Ironically, however, it didn’t reach across the river to Podgórze, despite the fact most of the film’s historic events took place there, as did much of the filming. As Kazimierz became super-saturated with tourists and bars, predictions were that Podgórze would emerge as Kraków’s next hip bohemian district; however aside from a small stable of rogue cafes, things were slow to develop and for a long time getting off the beaten path in Kraków was as easy as crossing the river to Podgórze. Since the opening of Schindler’s Factory (p.102) as a major attraction and the construction of the Bernatek footbridge (E-7) creating a direct artery of tourist traffic into the district, that has begun to change, but Podgórze remains Kraków’s most mysterious and underappreciated neighbourhood.

On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing in Kazimierz were marched across the Silesian Uprisings Bridge and crammed into what was to become known as the Podgórze Ghetto (p.104). Traces of the Ghetto still exist, including a prominent stretch of the wall on ul. Lwowska (p.105). Liquidated on March 14, 1943, the majority of the Ghetto’s residents were murdered there, while others met death in the nearby Liban quarry (p.103) and Płaszów concentration camp, or in the gas chambers of AuschwitzBirkenau and Bełżec. The opening of the Schindler’s Factory Museum in 2010 not only did much towards helping the city bury the ghosts of the Holocaust, but it also established Podgórze as a bona fide tourist destination. With plenty to see and do, you could easily spend an entire day exploring Podgórze, and a walk up into the hills of Krzemionki behind old Podgórze is not only a great way to get ‘off the beaten path’ - it’s also Kraków’s most evocative area.

A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual attractions, the first signs of settlement in Podgórze date from over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish invasion in the 17th century saw much of Podgórze levelled. Awarded the rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph II, the town was eventually incorporated as Kraków’s fourth district in 1915, and the following decades saw its aggressive development; quarries and brickworks were constructed, and a string of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (p.103) is the only still standing. An indication of Podgórze’s age is Krakus Mound (p.102), excavations of which have dated it to the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent history are what people most associate with the district.

ST. JOSEPH’S CHURCH Presiding over the heart of historic Podgórze on the south side of the district’s main square, this unmissable neo-gothic juggernaut was built between 1905-09 on the design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower, elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of saints, St. Joseph’s slender, yet imposing brick facade rates among the most beautiful in Kraków and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The interior is no less beautiful and visitors should also note the abandoned 1832 belfry that stands on a rocky outcropping behind the church - all that remains of the original temple, dismantled due to design flaws.QJ‑5, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12 656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja. pl. Open 08:30 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.

100 Kraków In Your Pocket

CHURCHES

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Podgórze MUSEUMS CRICOTEKA Tadeusz Kantor (1915-1990) was an avant-garde artist, theatre director, set designer and a major figure in 20th theatre reform, known for his revolutionary theatre productions. In 1980 he created ‘Cricoteka’ as a ‘living archive’ to document the achievements of himself and his theatre company Cricot 2. In 2014, Cricoteka opened its new headquarters here on the site of the former Podgórze power station, with the aim of better presenting his work and its impact on modern art and theatre. The building itself is an apparent homage to his experimental approach, literally hovering above the existing buildings with a bizarre facade of rusted metal and black mirror. Combined with the original buildings, the multifunctional site hosts an exhibition space, archive, theatre hall and bookshop; as a result, a large amount of its programme involves happenings, performances, workshops and other live events (check their website for those). As a museum, it’s difficult to recommend to those who aren’t already familiar with Kantor, or fans of alienating, experimental theatre. Temporary exhibits show art apparently inspired by Kantor’s ideas, while the permanent exhibit shows the evolution of Kantor’s increasingly eccentric career via stage props he created (including lots of creepy mannequins) and video footage. Free tablets with English-language info are available for visitors at the ticket desk. Whether it all resonates is purely a matter of personal taste, as public opinion is notably divided.QJ‑4, ul. Nadwiślańska 2, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 70, www.news.cricoteka.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Y LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE Located directly across from MOCAK, this building has been a glassworks since 1931 and actually flourished during the PRL-era when up to 500 people were employed here under the auspices of not only glass bottle production but also glass art, scientific research and industrial design. During the 1970s ‘Cracovian glass’ achieved international renown for its bold experimentation with form, colour and texture, and today Lipowa 3 is still used for national glass research and production. The idea of an educational museum showcasing Polish glass and glassblowing technology has actually existed since 1972, and recent investment has now made those collections open to the public. The permanent exhibit includes bilingual displays of historical glass tools and antique glassware, but the highlight is the impressive ‘Cracovian Glass Art Collection’ of contemporary coloured glassware produced here between 1931 and 1998. Live glass-blowing demonstrations occur hourly, beginning March 1st, with the last show at 16:30 (Sat 12:30). The ground floor includes a shop and a free gallery for rotating exhibits of contemporary glass art.QK‑4, ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423 67 90, www.lipowa3.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. Note, however, that opening hours may be subject to change. Permanent exhibit and live demonstrations 14/12zł, exhibit only 8/6zł. Guided tours available in English by prior arrangement, 80zł. iyp.me/polandblog

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCAK)

Photo by Rafał Sosin

Opened in 2011, Krakow’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK) does not disappoint, capably holding its own with comparable international art institutions. Tucked behind Schindler’s Factory, the building alone will impress with its avant-garde styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large and fine permanent collection of modern art highlighting both Polish and international artists, plus a new permanent exhibition space inspired by Warhol’s cult NYC studio known as The Factory. There are also always several provocative temporary exhibitions and a large cafe and bookshop. Despite the relatively late closing hour, make sure to leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has to offer.QK‑4, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 14/7zł, Tue free. Guided tours (115zł + admission) in English, Italian, French and Chinese available, but must be arranged by phone in advance. Y­U PHARMACY UNDER THE EAGLE When the Nazis created the Jewish ghetto in Podgórze in 1941, this pharmacy on Pl. Bohaterów Getta and its Polish owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at the very heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his staff were the only Poles allowed to live and work in the ghetto and over the two years of the ghetto’s existence, Apteka Pod Orłem became an important centre of social life as well as aid in acquiring food and medicine, falsified documents and avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz (recognised today as one of the ‘Righteous Among the Nations’) and his staff risked their lives in many clandestine operations while bearing witness to tragedy through the windows of the pharmacy as the ghetto and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately

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Podgórze KRAKUS MOUND

The oldest structure in Kraków, Krakus Mound (Kopiec Krakusa) is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds in the city and is also its highest point, providing incredible panoramic views from its 16m summit. The site of pagan rituals for centuries, the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki, the green rolling fields of Płaszów, the grim Liban quarry and the Podgórze cemetery. With incredible views of the city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Kraków’s least explored and most captivating areas and should be visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from the ‘Powstańców Wielkopolskich’ tram stop via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod Kopcem (K-5), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstańców Wielkopolskich to the base of the mound. The result of great human effort and innovative engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and mystery. Connected with the legend of Kraków’s mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said to have been constructed in honour of his death when noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape. In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if Krak was indeed buried beneath it. Though much about the ingenuity of the mound’s prehistoric engineers was revealed, no trace of a grave was found; a bronze belt from the 8th century was unearthed and there is general agreement today that the mound was created by a Slavonic colony sometime between the latter half of the 7th century and the early 10th century, though other hypotheses credit it to the Celts. Originally four smaller mounds surrounded the base of Krak’s mound, however these were levelled in the mid-19th century during the construction of the city’s first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The legend of Krak’s mound inspired the modern creation of burial mounds for Kościuszko and Piłsudski and today it remains one of Poland’s greatest archaeological mysteries.QK‑5, above ul. Maryewskiego. 102 Kraków In Your Pocket

‘liquidated.’ Today the building is a branch of the Kraków Historical Museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi occupation, which through traditional and multimedia displays, and extensive testimonials from both Poles and Jews, heartrendingly describes life in the Kraków Ghetto. Information is displayed inside the chests and cupboards of the pharmacy, and visitors are encouraged to handle dozens of replica artefacts and reprinted photographs, heightening the reality of the events described and creating a very intimate visiting experience. Though comprising only 5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting this excellent museum.QJ‑4, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656 56 25, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Note that it is closed on the second Tuesday of every month. Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł, Mon free. Y SCHINDLER’S FACTORY In 2010, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory (to give it its full name) re-opened to the public as a world-class museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which has been well-known since Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List (which was shot almost entirely in Kraków) brought it to audiences across the world in 1993, and while that story is covered in detail on the original site where many events took place, the museum actually casts the city of Kraków in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled, ‘Kraków During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945.’ Individual histories of Kraków’s wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, everyday life under occupation, the fate of the Jews, the city’s underground resistance and more, using vast archival documents, photos, radio and film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations. Other exhibits change regularly, while a separate section of the original factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and other events. A must-visit, Schindler’s Factory is one of the most fascinating museums in the entire country and we recommend you reserve at least two hours if you want to see everything. To get there take a tram to Pl. Bohaterów Getta (J-4) and it’s a 5-10 minute walk down ul. Kącik, under the train overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and you’re there.QK‑4, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00; Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 1.5 hours before closing. Admission 21/16zł, family ticket 50zł. Groups of over 15 people 18zł (without guide)/20zł (with guide) and must book in advance. Mon free for permanent exhibitions. Y

© fotopolska.eu

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Podgórze PLACES OF INTEREST FORT BENEDICT The only surviving fortress of three that were built in Podgórze in the mid-19th century to protect the Vistula River and the road to Lwów, Fort Benedict is one of only a few citadels of the ‘Maximillion Tower’ type left anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick artillery tower in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with a round interior yard, the fort has a total surface area of 1500 square metres. Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on Lasota Hill, it takes its name from nearby St. Benedict’s church. The fortress quickly lost its usefulness in the 1890s and has since been used as Austrian military barracks and was even converted into apartments in the 1950s, though today it lies in general dereliction, filled with abandoned furniture and building materials. After numerous projects involving the fort failed to develop, care of Fort Benedict has recently been transferred back to the city of Kraków, with plans for its renovation awaiting approval. At the moment, however, it remains impenetrable to tourists, adding to the scenery and mystique of one of Kraków’s most surprising and strange corners.QK‑5, Lasota Hill. PLAC BOHATERÓW GETTA First plotted out in 1836, this public square just across the river from the Powstańców Śląskich bridge has had a turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over the years. During the time of the Kraków Ghetto it was at once the source of the residents’ greatest relief and also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation. As the ghetto’s largest open space, Plac Zgody was a place for people to socialise, relax and escape the oppressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also the site of families being torn apart, mass deportations to the death camps, beatings and executions. Following deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and other belongings that the victims had been forced to abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign of the square. Though after the war the name of Plac Zgody was changed to Plac Bohaterów Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) and a small monument was erected, the space’s historical significance never felt more pertinent than its post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot. Finally, after decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterów Getta was renovated in 2005, sparking significant controversy over the design. Nonetheless, today it is perhaps the most iconic place in Podgórze. Laid out with 70 large well-spaced metal chairs meant to symbolise departure, as well as subsequent absence, the entire square has essentially been turned into an evocative memorial to the victims of the Kraków Ghetto. A place for candles and reflection was also added within the small, former bus terminal building at the north end of the square, however it still goes sadly ignored (see if you can do something about that).QJ‑4. iyp.me/polandblog

LIBAN QUARRY

One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Kraków, the Liban Quarry should first and foremost be a place of remembrance for the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated here during WWII. That said, the site which largely lies in overgrown abandon today - offers adventurous visitors some intriguing opportunities for exploration, photography, and personal reflection. Left to slowly evolve into a nature sanctuary for local waterfowl, pheasants, birds of prey and various other creatures, the quarry’s towering limestone cliffs, ponds and dense vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery equipment, fence posts, gravestones and tangles of barbed wire that can still be found amongst the brush here. The Jewish limestone company ‘Liban and Ehrenpreis’ established a quarry here in 1873, and by the end of the 19th century a complex of buildings had been established inside and a railway line had been laid. During Nazi occupation, however, Liban was seized and set-up as a cruel penal camp where 800 Poles were forced to perform gruelling slave labour from 1942 to 1944. A small, discreet and easily overlooked memorial for 21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp lies beside the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site. In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all the scenes from Schindler’s List that take place in the Płaszów concentration camp. During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were set-up around the quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed with the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as you walk amongst the many gallows-like fence posts strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly, the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved with Jewish headstones; we can put you at ease by assuring you it is not genuine. An incredibly evocative, yet peaceful and beautiful site, enter the quarry at your own risk by following a trail from Krakus Mound toward Podgórze Cemetery along the rim of and into the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though there is nothing unlawful about being in the quarry, city employees of the Housing Office buildings at the quarry’s entrance have been known to deny entry or ask people to leave.QJ/K‑5, ul. Za Torem. February - March 2017

103


Jewish Ghetto

Kraków has always been regarded as the cultural centre of Poland, and before World War II it was likewise an important cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews one quarter of the city’s total population - who enjoyed the city’s relatively tolerant climate. Persecution of the Jewish community began almost immediately following German occupation in early September 1939, however. Despite an increasing series of regulations restricting the civil rights and personal freedom of Jews, more and more were arriving in Kraków from the rest of PL in the hope of finding safety amidst the city’s dense community. In October 1939, the Nazis registered 68,482 Jews in Kraków. Conditions continued to worsen, however, and in April 1940, Hans Frank - Nazi commander of the ‘General Government’ (the part of German-occupied PL that was not directly incorporated into Germany) - ordered the resettlement of Kraków’s Jews, in keeping with his desire for the capital of the General Government to be a “Jew-free city.” As a result of resettlement in late 1940, Kraków’s Jewish population was reduced to the 16,000 deemed necessary to maintain the economy at the time, with the 52,000-odd others forcibly deported, largely to labour camps in the east. ESTABLISHMENT On March 3rd, 1941 Otto Wächter, Governor of the Kraków district, decreed the establishment of a new ‘Jewish Housing District’ on the right bank of the Wisła River in the district of Podgórze. What would become known as the ‘Kraków’ or ‘Podgórze Ghetto’ initially comprised an approximately 20 hectare (50 acre) space of some 320 mostly one- and two-story buildings in Podgórze’s historic centre bound by the river and the Krzemionki hills to the north and south, and between the Kraków-Płaszów rail line and Podgórze’s market square to the east and west. In the 17 days between the ghetto’s establishment and the March 20, 1941 resettlement deadline, approximately 3,000 original residents of the district were relocated across the river to be replaced by some 16,000 Jews, whose property and possessions were confiscated with the exception of what they could carry into the ghetto. Thousands of unregistered Jews also illegally entered the ghetto seeking protection, bringing the total population of the Kraków Ghetto to about 18,000. Overcrowding was an obvious problem with one apartment allocated for every four families and an average of two square metres of living space per person. Windows 104 Kraków In Your Pocket

facing ‘Aryan’ Podgórze were bricked or boarded up to prevent contact with the outside world and a 3 metre high wall was erected around the confines of the ghetto, crowned with arches conscientiously designed to resemble Jewish tombstones. Four guarded entrance gates accessed the ghetto - the main gate from Rynek Podgórski on ul. Limanowskiego (J-4), another on the east end of ul. Limanowskiego near its intersection with ul. Rękawka and ul. Lwowska (K-4), a third close by at the intersection of ul. Lwowska and ul. Józefińska (K-4), and another at Plac Zgody (today known as Plac Bohaterów Getta, J-4, p.103). A tram initially ran through the ghetto, and though it made no stops, food and other valuable commodities frequently found their way into the ghetto via its windows. Many Jewish institutions were transferred into the ghetto, and several non-Jewish businesses continued to operate, most notably Tadeusz Pankiewicz’s Pharmacy Under the Eagle (p.101) on Plac Zgody (J-4). Many Jews also worked outside the ghetto, particularly in the Zabłocie industrial district, which included Oskar Schindler’s enamelware factory at ul. Lipowa 4 (K-4, p.102). DEPORTATIONS Following an October 15th, 1941 decree requiring all Jews of the Kraków region - not just the city centre - to move to the Podgórze Ghetto, a further 6,000 Jews from villages around Małopolska entered the ghetto, making conditions unbearable. To alleviate the distress Nazi authorities happily announced that they would begin deportations, and 1000 people - mostly elderly and unemployed -were loaded into cattle cars and sent to Kielce, where they were expected to find aid from local Jewish authorities. Not knowing what else to do, many of them actually returned clandestinely to their families in the Kraków Ghetto. Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942, the Nazis began to initiate ‘The Final Solution’ - Hitler’s systematic plan for the annihilation of European Jewry. May 29th 1942 was the first of ten days of terror within the Kraków Ghetto as it was surrounded by Nazi troops and all documents were inspected. Those who couldn’t produce proper work permits were assembled on Plac Zgody before being transferred to Płaszów rail station, loaded into cattle cars in groups of 120, and sent to Bełżec death camp in eastern PL. Unsatisfied by the initial numbers, the Germans continued their arbitrary round-ups for days. One June 6th all previous documents were declared invalid and ghetto occupants were required to apply for a new ‘Blauschein’ or Blue Pass; those that were denied likewise met their deaths in Bełżec, including popular poet and songwriter Mordechai Gebirtig and renowned painter Abraham Neuman. By the end of the action, 7,000 Jews had been sent to their deaths, and many more simply shot in the streets. [The June deportations were one of the best documented of such actions, however photos from the events are still commonly misidentified as being taken during the ghetto’s liquidation in March 1943.] Two weeks later the area of the ghetto was reduced almost by half iyp.me/krakow


Jewish Ghetto to the north side of ul. Limanowskiego and demarcated by barbed wire. The increased density of the population and increasing brutality of the Germans set off a wave of suicides. Though some remained optimistic, worse was to come. Work was also beginning on the nearby Płaszów labour camp, which would eventually portend the end of the Kraków ghetto. In late August and early September, 12-13,000 Jews (many originating from Kraków) were also sent to Bełżec as the ghettos in nearby Słomniki and Wieliczka were liquidated. Following these brutal events, the correlation between deportation and death became fully understood perhaps for the first time in Kraków. In October the Germans announced that the Kraków ghetto would be consolidated again and selections began anew, with no regard toward employment status, age or health. Another 4,500 victims were sent to their deaths in Bełżec, while some 600 were shot inside the ghetto. With the liquidation of the ghetto hospital, orphanage and elderly home, many orphans and invalids were sent to the newly established Płaszów labour camp, only to be murdered on arrival. Afterwards the area east of Plac Zgody ceased to be part of the ghetto, and a month later the remaining territory was divided into two sections: Ghetto A was reserved for the healthiest, most able-bodied residents, and Ghetto B for those less desirable and destined for deportation. Residents of Ghetto A began commuting daily to work on the construction of Płaszów labour camp, and after Amon Goeth arrived in Kraków as its new Camp Commandant the pace of the camp’s development hastened the ghetto’s demise. LIQUIDATION As soon as enough barracks had been built, Goeth ordered that the inhabitants of Ghetto A permanently relocate to Płaszów, and on March 13th 1943 local SS Commander Julian Scherner ordered the final liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto. Carried out in two phases, at least 6,000 Jews (some sources cite up to 8,000) from Ghetto A were immediately transported to Płaszów; residents of Ghetto B and all children under 14 were ordered to assemble on Plac Zgody the next day. Despite likely knowing what lay in store, many mothers stayed behind when Ghetto A was liquidated, refusing to abandon their children. March 14th 1943 was likely the bloodiest day in Podgórze’s history. The ghetto - which at that point essentially consisted of only Plac Zgody and the block of buildings just south of it - was surrounded by German troops who attempted to herd its residents to the transports leaving from the square. Chaos reigned and those who resisted or attempted to escape were shot. Over 1,000 people were killed in the streets (some estimates are as high as 2,000) and the 3,000 that left via cattle car went almost directly to the gas chambers in Auschwitz. After this final deportation, the Germans cleaned their mess, looting the houses, stripping the luggage strewn everywhere of anything valuable, and taking down all the barbed wire. The Kraków Ghetto disappeared leaving almost as little trace as the Jews who lived there. iyp.me/polandblog

TRACES OF THE GHETTO Though it existed for only two years, history has a long memory and some evidence of the ghetto still remains. The outline of the former ghetto can be seen on our map on page 137. As you walk around the area keep your eyes peeled for informational ghetto memorial plaques on many of the buildings. GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT In 1983 a commemorative plaque was added to this prominent 12m stretch of the original ghetto wall, which reads in Hebrew and Polish: “Here they lived, suffered and died at the hands of the German torturers. From here they began their final journey to the death camps.”QK‑4, ul. Lwowska 25-29.

GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT An even longer and arguably more evocative section of the original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground behind the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego 60/62. Those looking to continue their creepy tour of the area should climb the steep trail leading from the back of the playground straight up to the Old Podgórze Cemetery, to the right from which is the abandoned Fort Benedict.QK‑5, ul. Limanowskiego 62. STARMACH GALLERY Built between 1879-1881, this was one of four prayer houses within the ghetto, the others being located at numbers 6 and 7 on the same street and nearby at ul. Krakusa 7. Religious practise was outlawed by the Germans during the war (though it continued in secret) and the synagogue was converted into a warehouse and then a factory. When the ghetto was established, many valuable religious artefacts from Kazimierz synagogues were transferred here for protection, however the eventual liquidation of the ghetto guaranteed that they were looted and lost. After the war the building stood derelict until Andrzej and Teresa Starmach rescued it in 1996, turning it into one of the largest and most renowned private art galleries in PL. The exhibitions are always outstanding and a visit is recommended.QJ‑4, ul. Węgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www.starmach.eu. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. February - March 2017

105


Nowa Huta

If you’re after authenticity, the Museum of Poland Under the Communist Regime (p.108) is very much of the era.

The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis of everything cuddly Kraków is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta is one of only two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the other being Magnitogorsk in Russia’s Ural Mountains), and one of the finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world. Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of Kościelniki (as well as parts of Mogiła and Krzesławice) in an attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Kraków. The decision to build NH was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over the next few years construction of a model city for 100,000 people sprung up at breakneck speed. Built to impress, Nowa Huta featured wide, tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Huta’s architects strove to construct the ideal city, with ironic inspiration coming from the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New York (that despicable western metropolis). Careful planning was key, and the suburb was designed with ‘efficient mutual control’ in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a fortress if it came under attack. Work on the first block of flats began on June 23, 1949, and it was a massive task, with volunteer workers flocking from across Poland to take part in this bold project. Feats of 106 Kraków In Your Pocket

personal sacrifice were rife and encouraged with one man, Piotr Ożański, publicly credited with laying an stupendous 33,000 bricks in one single day. For the workers life was tough; many were still sleeping in tents when the first winter arrived, legends abound of bodies buried in the foundations, and crime was rampant. Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was Nowa Huta was never fully realised. A fearsome town hall in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland was never built, nor was the theatre building across from it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added. However what was completed is very much worth the trip for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of Kraków; it’s as easy as a tramride.

© vereonique-mergeau_flickr

iyp.me/krakow


Nowa Huta WHAT TO SEE Jump off a tram at the ‘Plac Centralny’ stop, and find yourself at the very nucleus of Nowa Huta. From 1973 to 1989 an enormous monument of Vladimir Lenin towered over the citizens of Nowa Huta at the north end of Plac Centralny. Dismantling it after the fall of communism in Poland was an important act of symbolism (cheered by thousands of spectators), which later turned into almost comic irony when the square he once stood on - and which was named for a time after Joseph Stalin - was officially re-designated ‘Ronald Reagan Square’ in 2004. Speak to any local, however, and you’ll still hear it referred to as Plac Centralny. A walk around Plac Centralny’s fearsome social realist arcades brings you to several minor points of interest, including the iconic Markiza neon sign, and Cepelix folk art shop (p.109). Also within easy walking distance is the former Świtowid cinema - another social realist stalwart that today houses the Museum of Poland Under the Communist Regime (p.108), and the Nowa Cultural Centre - home to a fantastic exhibit of grotesque, apocalyptic paintings by 20th century Polish artist Zdzisław Beksiński (p.108). Both are worth visits before wandering back to Plac Centralny and down Roses Avenue to the Nowa Huta District Museum (p.108). Although Plac Centralny and Roses Avenue serve as the focal point for visitors, it’s the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1, T-2) that Nowa Huta is famous for, not to mention named after. Employing 40,000 people in its heyday the ‘Lenin Steelworks’ produced seven million tonnes of steel annually, and boasted the largest blast furnace in Europe. If you take the trouble to approach the gates, you’ll see it’s also been given the full socialist treatment, flanked by two concrete monstrosities built to echo the fine old buildings of Poland. Enjoy the view because you’ll go no further; the steelworks is sadly off limits to tourists. Nowa Huta was meant to be a showcase socialist city, but it soon became a hotbed of anti-communist activity and played a huge role in the Solidarity strikes of the early 1980s, which were preceded locally by the struggle for permission to build the Nowa Huta’s first church; though it took 28 years, The Lord’s Ark (p.108) was finally consecrated in 1977. While much of NH is the product of the last half century, a true tour of the area reveals treasures of much older historical value. The most epitomising example of a pre-steel age in the area is Wanda’s Mound (p.109), a mysterious prehistoric earthwork that proves the area’s settlement goes all the way back to pre-Christian times, and predates that of Kraków’s Old Town.

GETTING TO NOWA HUTA Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram network. Tram 4 from ‘Dworzec Główny’ (the train station stop, D-2) goes straight to Plac Centralny (O-4) in about 20mins. iyp.me/polandblog

MEMORIES OF LENIN

While Kraków’s royal associations are common knowledge, few know that Comrade Lenin quietly called the city home from 1912-1914 before he was arrested as an enemy of the state and imprisoned in Nowy Targ. Released days later he returned to Kraków to pack his bags and fled to Switzerland, only to become one of the most famous names in world history a few years later. As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible that during his two years in Kraków Lenin may have visited the area upon which Nowa Huta would later be built. He made a high-profile postmortem return in 1954 when the Steelworks were named after him, and in 1970 Marian Konieczny won a controversial commission to build a monumental statue of him on Aleja Róż (Roses Avenue); strangely, the artist was at that time living in Lenin’s former flat. Konieczny spent three years creating a stunning seven tonne statue of Lenin striding purposefully forward down Nowa Huta’s main thoroughfare with his raincoat open and brow furrowed. The people of Nowa Huta, however, were unimpressed, and the statue soon became the focus of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old bicycle, battered pair of boots and a handwritten note were left below the statue which read, “Take these old boots, get on the bike and get the hell out of Nowa Huta.” In 1979 a bomb was planted at his feet, though the only casualty proved to be a local man who died of shock after being awoken by the blast. During Martial Law (Dec. 1981 - July 1983) more attempts to destroy Lenin’s statue were thwarted, and it doggedly survived an effort to pull it down, as well as an arson attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was lifted by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a disused fort until a Swedish philanthropist bought the monument for 100,000 Swedish crowns, and had it shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm. In 2014, as part of the ArtBoom festival, a mock-up of the striding Lenin monument was again temporarily erected on Roses Avenue, with a few key differences: this one was a miniature neon yellow fountain of Lenin urinating. February - March 2017

107


Nowa Huta THE LORD’S ARK

Built between 1967 and 1977, Nowa Huta’s first house of worship was designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was pieced together brick by brick by volunteer workers with no assistance from the communist authorities. The complete opposite of what Nowa Huta was meant to stand for, The Lord’s Ark (Arka Pana) is a remarkable building, and a true symbol of the Polish belief in Catholicism. With no outside help it was down to the locals to mix cement with spades, and find the two million stones needed for the church’s facade. The first corner stone was laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol Wojtyła, who would later assume fame as Pope John Paul II, but the discovery of a WWII ammunition dump delayed work, as some 5,000 mines and shells had to be carefully removed. Finally, on May 15th 1977, the church was consecrated. Built to resemble Noah’s Ark, with a 70 metre mast-shaped crucifix rising from the middle, the church houses an array of curious treasures, including a stone from the tomb of St. Peter in the Vatican, a tabernacle containing a fragment of rutile brought back from the moon by the crew of Apollo 11, and a controversial statue of Christ that shows him not on a cross, but about to fly to the heavens. If you think that’s odd, check out the statue dedicated to Our Lady the Armoured – a half metre sculpture made from ten kilogrammes of shrapnel removed from Polish soldiers wounded at the Battle of Monte Cassino. In the early 1980s, the church became a focal point during anti-communist protests, not least for the shelter it afforded the locals from the militia. Protesting during the period of Martial Law was dangerous business, as proven by the monument dedicated to Bogdan Włosik opposite the church. Włosik was shot in the chest by security services, and later died of his injuries. His death outraged the people, and his funeral was attended by 20,000 mourners. The monument commemorating the site of his death was erected in 1992 and is a tribute to all those who died during this period. In 2012 Kraków City Council awarded Arka Pana the ‘Cracoviae Merenti’ silver medallion for its significance to the city’s history. QN‑1, ul. Obrońców Krzyża 1, www.arkapana.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 15:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please. 108 Kraków In Your Pocket

ZDZISŁAW BEKSIŃSKI GALLERY One of PL’s most internationally recognised and controversial 20th century painters, Zdzisław Beksiński is known for his large, almost luminous, and emotionally-charged canvases depicting grotesque figures and apocalyptic landscapes. The themes of war, ruin, decay and deformity are prevalent throughout his work, which has been described as both ‘fantastical realism’ and ‘dystopian surrealism;’ we’d call it something of a cross between H.R. Giger and Francis Bacon. One of the most worthwhile things to see in Nowa Huta, this stunning collection of 50 paintings in the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre features some of his most definitive work, perfectly presented in a dark room on black walls, where the only light is directly on the art itself. If you find yourself completely fascinated by Beksiński, his life and family are the subject of the excellent 2016 film Ostatnia Rodzina (The Last Family).QO‑4, Al. Jana Pawła II 232, tel. (+48) 12 644 02 66, www.nck.krakow.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Admission 10/8zł. MUSEUM OF POLAND UNDER THE COMMUNIST REGIME In development for years, this museum inside the former Kino Światowid - a local landmark in social realist architecture, completed in 1957 - is dedicated to Polish history between the years 1944 and 1989, telling the story of everyday life during the country’s communist era. Though the building is awaiting further renovations, temporary exhibits occupy the ground floor and you can descend into the former cinema’s cellars for the intriguing ‘Nuclear Threat: Shelters of Nowa Huta’ exhibit. There are actually some 250 shelters beneath NH - enough to accommodate every resident in the district - and this is the largest in Kraków. Well-translated throughout, including an instructive film with English subtitles, here you’ll learn about the very organised and intricate plan Poland had for dealing with a potential nuclear attack during the Cold War, and the role every citizen would play in such an event. If you’re from the West, it’s akin to mild culture shock, and the space itself is impressively vast. Within easy walking distance from Plac Centralny, if you’ve made the trip out to NH there’s no reason not to make a stop here. Szpeje - a small shop inside selling genuine antiques from the PRL era - is an added bonus. QO‑4, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, www. mprl.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/7zł; Tue free. NOWA HUTA MUSEUM This small museum features sweet neon signage and a series of changing exhibitions relating to the life and culture of the district. A requisite stop for anyone in the area, here you can also pick up plenty of information about NH, and they arrange sightseeing tours of the district as well.QO‑2, Os. Słoneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97 75, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00; closed Mon, Sun (except 2nd Sun of each month 09:00 - 16:00). Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 12zł, Wed free. Y­U­N iyp.me/krakow


Nowa Huta WANDA’S MOUND Though construction of Nowa Huta began in 1949, Wanda’s Mound (Kopiec Wandy) is indisputable evidence that the history of the area goes back much further. In fact, the village of Mogiła, which Wanda’s Mound is near the historical centre of, has been inhabited since 5000 BC without interruption (archaeologists date the settlement of Kraków’s Old Town much later in the 8th century). Together with Krakus Mound (p.102) - Kraków’s other prehistoric earthwork - Wanda’s Mound plays a role in one of Poland’s greatest archaeological mysteries as the mound’s date of construction, builders and function all remain a subject of great speculation. Leading theories suggest that both mounds were erected sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries, by either the Slavs or the Celts, as burial mounds or pagan cult sites; perhaps most likely is that they were created as burial mounds which later became cult sites. Though seemingly random within the layout of modern Kraków, the location of the two mounds can hardly be seen as an accident; when standing atop Wanda’s Mound on the evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be seen setting in a direct line behind Krakus Mound. Off a major road behind a handy tram stop (station ‘Kopiec Wandy’ - tram 12 takes you there), Wanda’s Mound is a conical earthwork rising 14m with a winding path to the top, adorned by a small 19th century monument from the by Jan Matejko who lived in the Krzesławice Manor nearby. The victim of general neglect and geographical trespasses, Wanda’s Mound today lies just outside the fence of the fearsomely enormous Sendzimir steel plant, of which unglamorous glimpses can be seen through the trees. The view to the southwest is an improvement, where Krakus Mound and Podgórze can be seen in the distance, though Wanda’s Mound unfortunately doesn’t offer sweeping views of the same calibre as Kraków’s other mounds. If you’re still feeling adventurous after climbing the mound, there’s a footpath that leads you east into woods and on to one of Kraków’s hidden 19th century Austrian fortresses, but, honestly, it just gives us the creeps.QT‑4, Near intersection of ul. Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa.

TOURS CRAZY GUIDES Specialising in communist-themed tours of Nowa Huta: experience Stalin’s gift to Kraków in a genuine Eastern Bloc Trabant 601 automobile as you zip around the district with young, informative guides. The tour includes Plac Centralny, a stop for food in a milk bar, a propaganda film in communist era apartment, vodka shots in Stylowa restaurant, the gates of the Steelworks and more. Considering the large size and somewhat underwhelming nature of walking around the district on your own, this is the best way to get the most out of a trip to Nowa Huta.Qtel. (+48) 500 09 12 00, www. crazyguides.com. ‘Communism Tour’ 139zł per person. iyp.me/polandblog

PLAC CENTRALNY

The centre of Nowa Huta’s architectural layout, Plac Centralny (Central Square) is the district’s primary landmark and one of social realism’s highest architectural achievements, despite never being completed. The two main structures of the square were to be the towering Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an obelisk in between; though the designs were in place, none saw development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking them - Aleja Róż (Roses Avenue, O-3) - was never fully realised, and terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine example of your typical Stalinist ‘road to nowhere.’ While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining the way, you’ll find several curiosities. First and foremost, don’t miss the gorgeously restored ‘Markiza’ neon sign at the corner of os. Centrum A and al. Jana Pawła II (O-4). Though the cake shop it advertised is long gone, the sign stanmds out as the area’s most nostalgic memento from the PRL era. Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00, closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design, this amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the original 50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal chandeliers and a coffer ceiling with colourful handpainted ceramic plates. The character of this place hasn’t changed a bit and as such it’s a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework, famous Bolesławiec pottery, and even Nowa Huta souvenirs. Across the street is a typical milk bar (bar mleczny), one of the Soviet era worker cafeterias which still thrive in the district. If you think that can’t be topped, only a few doors down behold the hideously outdated interiors of the famous Stylowa Restaurant - one of the only places to eat in NH that isn’t a milk bar. Once one of the most exclusive restaurants in town, this place carries on in the same spirit as the day it opened with an interior that hasn’t changed in well over 30 years.QO‑4. February - March 2017

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Auschwitz

The infamous Auschwitz I entrance gate. | © noel moore, Dollar Photo Club

For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here, etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history books and countless films, documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective consciousness. Visitors to Kraków are faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going. The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion, poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. 110 Kraków In Your Pocket

Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should visit.

VISITING AUSCHWITZ If you’ve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have three options: visit as part of a group organised by a Kraków tourist agency, visit independently and join a guided tour at the museum, or visit independently for free without a guide. Unfortunately, a new online reservation system now makes the latter two options much more difficult than in the past. All visits must now be booked in advance through the website visit. auschwitz.org. As a result, you may find there are no tickets available because they have all been snatched up by tourist agencies. The unavailability of tickets online doesn’t mean you can’t visit Auschwitz when you want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a tour through an outside provider. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it is worth it. iyp.me/krakow


Auschwitz If you are determined to visit independently you need to know that during peak season (April - October) the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a 3.5hr guided tour unless you get there before 10:00 (difficult to do from Kraków) or after 15:00 - during which times it is possible to visit for free on your own. Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the official guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own. Tour departure times fluctuate (check the schedule online), but tours in English depart frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish. The museum makes a big effort to provide the tour in the native language of each guest, and tours in languages other than those just mentioned can be easily arranged if done in advance through the website. Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum on your own can be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows with different designations, and excessive signage that contradicts itself. If you are visiting independently, or in a small group, find the queue for the desk marked ‘Individual Guests.’ After purchasing your ticket and headphones, your experience typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film (not recommended for children under 14) is not guaranteed year-round however, in which case your guided tour of the camp will begin straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear through your headphones. If exploring Auschwitz without a guide it is highly recommended that you don’t get there later than 15:30, and that you pick up the official guidebook (5zł) whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous bookshops at both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II - Birkenau. Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast. After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some limited food available at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and a restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz II-Birkenau.Qul. Więźniów Oświęcimia 20, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Auschwitz I open 08:00 - 17:30; from March open 07:30 - 18:30; last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. Auschwitz II-Birkenau open 08:00 18:00; from March open 07:30 - 19:00; last entrance 2hrs before closing. An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both camps costs 45/35zł. Tours for groups range from 330-750zł depending on size of group and type of tour. The film costs 4/3zł. Official guidebook 5zł. Admission without a guide (when possible) to either camp is free. iyp.me/polandblog

GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ

Lying 75km west of Kraków, there are several ways to get to Oświęcim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be signing on for a tour organised by a multitude of Kraków-based tour companies (like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything goes smoothly; providing transportation, tickets and general guidance, the organisational help of these outfits can eliminate significant confusion upon arrival. For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart for Oświęcim from the main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18, E-1); most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance, but not all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end up at the Oświęcim bus station which is at the other end of town. The journey takes 1hr 20-40mins and costs 14zł. Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between Kraków and Oświęcim, with a journey time of 1hr 45mins - 2hrs 15mins and a cost of about 8.50zł; note, however, that early trains to Oświęcim can be eerily crowded, particularly on weekends. The Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 24-29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3zł) from the nearest kiosk. Museum buses regularly shuttle visitors between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15zł. Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 31 50 77) can take you back to Kraków from either camp a group of eight would pay about 30-40zł/person.

ALSO IN OŚWIĘCIM OŚWIĘCIM JEWISH MUSEUM & SYNAGOGUE If you have more time to spend in Oświęcim, head to this historic synagogue (one of three surviving in the centre of Oświęcim) for more information on the town’s Jewish heritage, including a permanent exhibition on Jewish life there before World War II. Located near Oświęcim’s market square 3km from the Auschwitz museum, the centre offers specially tailored programmes for those plan their visits in advance, and there’s a cafe here with a sweet roof terrace in the warmer months.QPl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 70 02, www.ajcf.org. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 15zł, kids 6 and under free. February - March 2017

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Auschwitz The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering of individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory of the Roma (gypsy) people who perished. The tour concludes with the gruesome gas chamber and crematoria, whose two furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in 1947 stands outside.

AUSCHWITZ I Your tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of the infamous ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ (‘Work Makes You Free’) entrance gate. [The original sign was actually made by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on display after it was stolen in December 2009 and found in pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.] From the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads past the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played as prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest inside Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality behind the world’s most notorious concentration camp is given, with exhibits including original architectural sketches for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination and mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven tonnes of human hair once destined for German factories, which does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity of the Nazi death machine. Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some of which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most affectingly, children’s shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of prisoners with collections of photographs, artists’ drawings and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural depicting two playful kittens.

AUSCHWITZ II - BIRKENAU Having completed the long tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the opportunity to visit Auschwitz II – Birkenau, however it’s here that the impact of Auschwitz can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope and solitude of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau contained 300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that covered 175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Conference on January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen rubberstamped the wholesale extermination of European Jews, it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all the Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held there in 1944. The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly into gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour lived in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation, disease and exhaustion accounted for countless lives. With the Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to hide all traces of their crimes. Today little remains, with all gas chambers having been dynamited and living quarters levelled. Climb the tower of the main gate for a full impression of the complex’s size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks used as a quarantine area, while across on the left hand side lie numerous brick barracks which were home to the penal colony and also the women’s camp. At the far end of the camp lie the mangled remains of the crematoria, as well as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a comparably brief guided tour of the camp, visitors are left to wander and reflect on their own before catching the return bus to Auschwitz I.

Block 11, otherwise known as ‘The Death Block’, is arguably the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the ‘Wall of Death’ - against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS - has been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his groundbreaking visit in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic cellars of Block 11 the Nazi’s conducted their experiments with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of Father Maximilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death after offering his life to save another inmate, is marked with a small memorial, and tiny ‘standing cells’ measuring 90 x 90 cm - where up to four prisoners were held for indefinite amounts of time – remain intact. 112 Kraków In Your Pocket

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Tarnów

Tarnów Old Town. Photo by Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnów Tourist Information Centre

Eighty kilometres east of Kraków lies the charming and hospitable city of Tarnów. Małopolska’s second city by size, Tarnów is absolutely dwarfed by Kraków but features many of the same cultural and architectural charms without the crushing crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd mentality that unfortunately come along with a tourist market the size of Kraków’s. On the contrary, Tarnów offers tourists the comforts of a small town with a long history and the cultural intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In addition to a well-preserved medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious Cathedral, a cute market square and Town Hall, and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnów visitors will discover several unique and worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical monuments at every turn. Those with a special interest in Tarnów’s Jewish heritage will still find traces of it today in the city’s small, but evocative Jewish district and large Jewish Cemetery. While the town’s nightlife may not have the sizzle of Kraków, there are still plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants where you’ll find it easy to meet friendly local folks who are proud of their city and eager to present a good impression to foreigners. All told it’s enough to easily warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as Tarnów also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth of other nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at Dębno, the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia. You’ll find more information on Tarnów and all the surrounding area has to offer on our website (tarnow.inyourpocket.com), but make sure you also pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information Office when you arrive and pick up a copy of IYP’s special Tarnów mini-guide. iyp.me/polandblog

WHAT TO SEE CATHEDRAL Dating from the 14th century with major additions and rebuilds in the 15th and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and one of the oldest brick buildings in the city, must rate as one of the most impressive parish churches in Poland. Of note is the 16th-century portal, the impressive several-metre-long monuments to the Tarnowski and Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary paintings and the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of reference when getting lost in one of Tarnów’s many rambling back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident, including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on the southern side of the building, and a large monument of Pope John Paul II outside the entrance.QPl. Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 45 01, www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:00; Sun 13:00 - 15:00, 16:00 17:00. No visiting during mass please.

GETTING TO TARNÓW Only 80km east of Kraków, Tarnów is most easily reached by road - a hassle-free drive down the new A4 highway that takes less than an hour. Buses from Kraków to Tarnów run about once an hour, with the first leaving as early as 06:45 and the last bus back to Kraków departing at 21:35; the journey takes between 1hr 15mins and 2hrs. Tarnów is also served by some 30 or so trains every day from Kraków, with a journey time of between 55 and 85 minutes depending on whether you take a local or express train. February - March 2017

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Tarnów RYNEK & THE OLD TOWN

Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls and defensive towers), Tarnów’s exemplary Old Town began life in the 14th century, although most of what now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is the Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four sides by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from the 16th to the 18th century. At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off with an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which Tarnów’s ‘hejnał’ - a short traditional melody - is played every day at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin, the Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved Jewish quarter to the east, one remaining defensive tower and a pleasant pedestrian street, hugging its northern edge and featuring several interesting buildings as well as a number of monuments. In the spring and summer the Rynek comes to life with tables and chairs from the local businesses lining it, and has a warm and welcoming appeal.

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE One of the most helpful offices in all of PL, make this your first port of call on arrival. Here (and on their multi-lingual website) you’ll find a wide range of free information on Tarnów and the surrounding region, free internet (browse away), bicycle rental, luggage lockers, souvenirs, and there’s even accommodation available upstairs. If you’re interested in a gadget-led tour, there’s the Tarnów Wooden Architecture App, nine different audio tours, and a GPS guide. The friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic English-speaking staff can give you whatever additional information or advice you can’t find here, so don’t be shy. QRynek 7, tel. (+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.travel. Open 08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. 114 Kraków In Your Pocket

DIOCESAN MUSEUM To paraphrase the late John Paul II, the Church needs art to better understand what lies inside the soul of man, and Tarnów’s superb Diocesan Museum, established in 1888, does a very good job at doing just that. An astonishing collection of religious art from the 15th century onwards, housed inside an equally wonderful ensemble of 16thcentury houses, the museum’s most precious artefact is the original altar from St. Leonard’s church in nearby Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation reasons at the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include some truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from Małopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk art. A marvellous and highly recommended experience.QPl. Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum. diecezja.tarnow.pl. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00; Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 14:00; closed Mon. Admission free. ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM As well as highlighting local ethnographic traditions, this better than average collection includes a large celebration of Roma (Gypsy) culture, which is allegedly the only such collection in Europe. A truly fascinating, if slightly dated, exhibition tracing Roma culture in Poland from its beginnings in the 15th century to their fate at the hands of the Nazis and beyond, the three rooms that make up the exhibition include some excellent maps, models, costumes and photographs; with about 350 Roma living in the Tarnów area, their culture is still very much alive locally. In the museum’s back garden you’ll find several traditionally painted gypsy caravans.Qul. Krakowska 10, tel. (+48) 14 622 06 25, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 15:00, Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 16zł; Sun free. N TARNÓW DISTRICT MUSEUM - MAIN BRANCH The new headquarters of the many branches of the Tarnów District Museum, located in a historical building right on the Rynek, hosts temporary exhibits and the small permanent exhibit ‘That’s Tarnów - Great Tarnówians,’ which manages to catalogue the city’s full history, from its fledgling 14th-century founding days up to the present, in just one room. En route, the exhibit touches upon its favourite sons Jan Tarnowski, General Józef Bem and Tadeusz Tertil, while also sparing some space for the contributions of the Jewish population. If you’re not particularly invested in Slavic archaeology and artefact restoration, or proving you know more than the locals, than you can probably skip this one.QRynek 3, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Last entrance 15mins before closing. Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 16zł; Sun free for the permanent exhibition. N THE JEWISH CEMETERY A 10-minute walk north of the Old Town, this cemetery was established in the early 1580s and is one of the oldest and largest in Poland. With several thousand gravestones, almost all of them untouched by the Nazis, the Jewish Cemetery is a haunting albeit necessary part of any visit iyp.me/krakow


Tarnów

to Tarnów. Seriously overgrown in places, some areas near the main entrance can still be easily reached, and there are even signs in English marking a few of the graveyard’s more eminent souls. Near the entrance is a large memorial to the Jews of Tarnów, built from one of the columns of the city’s destroyed New Synagogue. The cemetery’s original gates are now in Washington’s Holocaust Museum, and their replacements are kept firmly locked, however it is possible to borrow a key by leaving a 20zł deposit at the Tourist Information Centre at Rynek 7.QJunction of ul. Słoneczna and ul. Matki Bożej Fatimskiej. THE OLD SYNAGOGUE BIMAH Between ul. Żydowska (Jewish Street) and Plac Rybny (Fish Square) stood The Old Synagogue, Tarnów’s primary place of worship for 45% of its population when war broke out in 1939. The first synagogue at this site dates back to some time before 1582; the frequent victim of fires, the wooden structure was finally rebuilt out of brick in 1670. On November 8th, 1939, the Old Synagogue was destroyed by the Nazis and later demolished; all that remains today is the brick ‘bimah’ - a four-pillared podium from which the Torah was read. In 1987 a roof was placed over the bimah to protect it, and the area around it has since been renovated into an appealing public space which hosts the annual “Galicianer Shtetl” - Jews of Galicia Remembrance Days - in June. Today the bimah is the most visible and perhaps the most important monument to Tarnów’s Jewish heritage. QSkwer Starej Synagogi. iyp.me/polandblog

TOWN HALL MUSEUM Worth a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this extraordinary collection over two floors includes glass, porcelain, silver, weaponry, and the most extensive collection of 18th-century Sarmatian portraits in the country. Sarmatism, if you’re wondering, was a beguiling infusion of lifestyle, culture and ideology that predominated the Polish nobility from the 17th to 19th century. Based on the mistaken and rather amusing belief that Poles were descended from a loose confederation of ancient Iranian tribes, Polish Sarmatism evolved over the centuries from a set of values based on pacifism into a full-blown warrior philosophy that endorsed horseback riding, outrageous behaviour and a propensity for lavish Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar moustaches. The Town Hall Tower can also be ascended if arranged ahead of time, and offers panoramic views for a small extra fee. QRynek 1, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow. pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Museum admission 8/5zł, family ticket 16zł, Sun free for permanent exhibition; tower admission 10/5zł; museum and tower 15/8zł. U­N

MUSEUM TICKETS Note that all Tarnów museums are free on Sundays, while on other days of the week a special sweetheart ticket good for the Town Hall, District Museum, and Ethnography Museum is available for only 16/10zł. February - March 2017

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Leisure

The Tao of Relaxation, page 116.

While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably the number one local leisure activity, our Leisure section is geared more for those looking for outdoor activities on a beautiful day, or how to stay active on an ugly one. Generally, Cracovians are spoiled with recreation opportunities, if only for the fact that the Old Town is a joy to stroll around when the sun is out and features several unique green spaces, particularly the Planty (p.82) and Błonia (p.130). Kraków’s unique and mysterious earthwork mounds also provide interesting outdoor sightseeing opportunities near the city centre - check out Krakus Mound in Podgórze (p.102) or Kościuszko Mound in Salwator (p.86); or go deep into the woods of Las Wolski to find Piłsudski Mound, as well as the Zoo (p.117).

THE STAGE Kraków’s most atmospheric billiards club, The Stage is much more than just a pool hall and bar. In the evenings this laid-back hangout often hosts events including concerts, cabarets, and karaoke with a live band as locals rack ‘em up on the seven handsome billiards tables in front of the street-side windows. Conference and company events also organised. QB‑1, ul. Łobzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681 63 85, www.thestage.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00. Cost of a table ranges between 15-23zł/hr depending on the time of day.

BOWLING & BILLIARDS

BŁONIA ICE RINK This year Kraków’s largest man-made glacier will actually be found inside Jordan Park, with a main 1000m2 frozen patch, a separate 200m2 space for little ones to take their first steps on the ice (and helmets to rent for paranoid parents), and a 150m ‘ice alley.’ The Organic Coffee Cafe will also be nearby for those in need of a warm-up.QH‑3, Jordan Park, entrance from Al. 3-Maja 11A, tel. (+48) 697 00 83 40, www. lodowisko-krakowskieblonia.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 11/9zł, family ticket 30zł for 75mins ice time (each additoonal 15mins 2zł. Skate rental 9zł.

PLAC NOWY 1 Located in the basement of a modern building right on Plac Nowy, this is the nicest bowling alley in Kraków. With only six lanes, the space is intimate rather, so reservations are wise. The bar puts an emphasis on regional Polish microbrews, and you can order food from the restaurant upstairs. Prices for one lane for one hour (max 8 people) are 55, 75 or 95zł depending on the day of the week and time of day.QD‑6, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 11, www. placnowy1.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 116 Kraków In Your Pocket

ICE SKATING

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Leisure INDOOR ATTRACTIONS KRAKOW PINBALL MUSEUM Obscurely hidden in a courtyard cellar, this old school pinball arcade features 50 beautiful pinball machines, plus a scattering of other old school arcade games just for good measure. Though a well-stocked bar makes their use of the term ‘museum’ seem a bit liberal, it’s clear that the aim here is to create a family-friendly attraction for supple-wristed nostalgics, rather than what could probably be one of the most popular bars in the neighbourhood if it stayed open later. All the machines in their ‘interactive exhibit’ are available for free unlimited play (no coins necessary!), but there is a rather hefty admission price, only somewhat offset by the fact that your ticket is good for re-entry all day. A great game for all ages, and a wonderful blast to the past (some of the machines are over 40 years old), specific pinball machines in their collection include Terminator 2, Star Trek, Dr. Who, Indiana Jones, Jurassic Park and Dirty Harry.QC‑6, ul. Stradomska 15, tel. (+48) 608 04 10 00. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/20zł, family ticket 100zł, kids under 7 free when accompanied by an adult. KRAKÓW WATER PARK The huge indoor pool complex includes 800m of water slides, dragon and pirate play areas, massage fountains, climbing walls, wave machines, and other in-water activities, Probably the thing your kid will remember most about Kraków, you might not have such a bad time yourself with access to the saunas, jacuzzis, a fitness centre and a pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little terrors dunk each other. Prices are 20-26zł for one hour, 41-59zł for day access (recommended - one hour just isn’t enough); note that saunas and fitness centre arean additional charge, and that on weekends this place is absolutely packed. QL‑1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 91, www.parkwodny.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. LOST SOULS ALLEY - DEADLY WALK Building off the terrifying success of their original house of horrors at ul. Floriańska 6 (C-3, open 12:00 - 20:00; Sat 12:00 21:00), the outfit behind Lost Souls Alley has opened a second nightmare asylum in the long-abandoned and thoroughly creepy basements of Tytano - a former tobacco factory just outside the Old Town. If ‘haunted house’ makes you think of campy Scooby Doo creatures and jump scares, this is not that kind of haunted house, but rather one that awakens your basic instinct of fear with claustrophobic and psychologically demented situations inspired by modern horror films and thrillers. In groups of 2-6 people, you’ll be locked in the factory basements and have to work together to solve puzzles in order to escape through a series of 16 rooms and corridors. Doing so typically takes 40mins, reservations are wise, and we recommend it for anyone 15 and over who wants one of the most memorable scares of their life.QA‑2, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 666 97 79 67, www.deadlywalk.com. Open 16:00 - 21:00, Fri 15:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Prices range from 27-45zł/per person depending on how many are in your group. iyp.me/polandblog

Plac Wolnica 4, Kraków 787 788 777 floatarium@gmail.com www. floatarium.pl

KRAKÓW ZOO

First opened in 1929, Kraków’s Zoo offers visitors the chance to see nearly 1500 animals of almost 300 species, while still remaining very manageable in size at only 20 hectares. Most of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting of Wolski Forest and there’s surprisingly little to get depressed about. Among the rare, exotic and endangered species you’ll see are Indian elephants, pygmy hippopotami, South American sea lions, Humboldt penguins, giraffes, camels, dwarf caimans and a surprisingly impressive array of brightlyplumed pheasants (our favourite). There’s also a petting zoo, and some unavoidable snack bars. Bus 134 leaves about every 30mins from ‘Stadion Cracovia’ (ul. Kałuży, H-3) and drops you off at the entrance. Open 09:00 until about dusk, check the exact hours online; last entrance 1hr before closing.Qul. Kasy Oszczędności Miasta Krakowa 14, tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.pl. Admission 18/10zł. February - March 2017

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Leisure SLEIGH RIDES

CINEMAS

The winter alternative of a horse-drawn carriage ride around Kraków’s market square, a sleigh ride through the countryside is arguably more magical and romantic, and makes for a great family outing. A traditional ride typically includes a large horse-drawn sled kitted out with sleigh bells and flaming torches winding through the beautiful snow-draped valleys surrounding Kraków and concludes with a forest bonfire, grilled sausages, tea or warm honey vodka. The companies listed here offer such excursions for all ages as long as there’s snow on the ground. Ars Cinema

Photo by Sylwia Bartyzel Photography

Kraków is blessed with a surprisingly large number of independent art-house cinemas right in the centre (foremost among them Pod Baranami and ARS), which offer diverse repertoires and participate in numerous film festivals; for the latest Hollywood blockbusters, however, you’ll have to visit one of the shopping mall multiplexes. Unlike places such as Russia (ahem), Polish cinemas show international releases in their original language with Polish subtitles. Be warned, however, that most animated films - including those for adults - will be dubbed. ARS CINEMA Located in an historic building whose history as a cinema dates back to 1916, ARS has survived several attempts at closure to remain arguably Kraków’s most popular art house cinema with 5 separate salons showing a range of commercial and ambitious independent films.QC‑3, ul. Św. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12 421 41 99, www.ars.pl. Box office open 30 minutes before the first showtime to 30 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 10-20zł. CINEMA CITY GALERIA KAZIMIERZ Your best bet in the city centre for Hollywood blockbusters.QJ‑3, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.cinema-city.pl. Box office open 10:00 - 22:45. Tickets 17-32zł. IMAX KRAKÓW On the outskirts of town, this is the biggest screen in Kraków, showing IMAX and 3D features.QL‑2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 90 90, www.cinemacity.pl. Box office open 30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 15-33zł. KINO POD BARANAMI One of Kraków’s most important art cinemas, housed in a historic building on the corner of the market square. Three projection rooms show the latest entries from world film festivals.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 27, tel. (+48) 12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.pl. Box office open 45 minutes before the first showtime until 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 13-22zł. 118 Kraków In Your Pocket

ECOTRAVEL Organising sleigh rides through the gorgeous Ojców National Park, 24km northwest of Kraków. Included in the price of the sleigh ride are torches, a bonfire with sausages and hot wine/or tea (you can bring along your own vodka). They can tailor a tour to your requirements, taking in, for example, the Kazimierz Castle ruins. Rides take approximately one hour, prices depend on the number in your party, and excursions are available whenever there’s snow on the ground. English speaking staff is available, so give them a call to make arrangements.QM‑2, Os. Niepodległości 3A/5A, Nowa Huta, tel. (+48) 12 681 36 92, www.ecotravel.pl. STADNINA KONI HUCULSKICH This farmstead about 24km west of Kraków offers snowy sleigh rides through the surrounding countryside and forest, pulled by stocky Polish hucul horses. Rides can be organised for up to 60 people at any time of day, and even in the spring and summer (on wheels of course). In addition to sleigh bells jingling, the experience also includes flaming torches, and can be followed by warming bowls of traditional soup and kiełbasa grilled over a bonfire. A great experience for kids (who will love the farm’s resident horses, goats, sheep and cats) and adults alike, and oh-so-Polish. Get a group together and call to arrange all details.QNielepice 196, tel. (+48) 12 283 87 26, www.nielepice.com.pl. 35zł per adult, 25zł per child; food is extra.

SPA & BEAUTY FLOATARIUM Experience a new level of relaxation in this spacious flotation chamber, sealed off from all sound, light and other outside stimuli, in water that is the same exact temperature as your body. Floating allows your mind to relax, rest and regenerate in a way otherwise impossible, enabling deep meditation. Try it out, and if you don’t like it they’ll actually give you a full refund. A 60min session is 120zł and booking 24 hours in advance is recommended (though walk-ins are welcome Mon-Sat 13:00 - 19:00).QD‑7, Pl. Wolnica 4, tel. (+48) 787 78 87 77, www.floatarium.pl. Open 09:00 23:00. iyp.me/krakow


Leisure CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE Improve blood and limphatic circulation, release physical and mental tension, strengthen the immune system, improve joint flexibility and remove toxins from your body with an authentic Thai massage, performed solely by highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses, oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder and head massages, and more. Receive a 10% discount when you present In Your Pocket.QE‑4, ul. Dietla 103/2, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Massages 100-300zł.

TAO THERAPY Escape to this massage therapy centre in Podgórze and immerse yourself in a space where you can let go of your stress, relax your body and reinvigorate your senses. Tao offers a range of traditional massages and body treatments, including traditional Thai massage, hot lava stone massage, hot herbal compress massage, facials, foot reflexology and aroma therapy massages. Treat yourself or your partner to some TLC by expert masseuses from Thailand and the Philippines.QJ‑4, ul. Józefińska 4/3 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 695 66 69 99, www.taospa.pl/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00. THAI SMILE MASSAGE Treat yourself to a range of therapeutic Thai massages performed by certified masseuses that will leave you feeling energised and balanced. If you’ve never had an authentic Thai massage, this is your chance - it’s an incredible experience, and can be a fun thing to do with a friend, partner or family member. Most massages are done in loose, non-constraining clothes to make you as comfortable as possible, and incorporate aspects of Thai traditional medicine, acupressure, yoga and even Buddhism. Give it a try and discover the wonder of getting an invigorating full body workout without doing a thing.QD‑6, ul. Krakowska 3 lok. 1, tel. (+48) 531 90 59 65, www. thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. VANILLA SPA This luxurious spa in the centre of the five-star Niebieski Hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your skin through a series of peels and masks using top of the line cosmetics and munch on organic ‘bio snacks’ courtesy of the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam bath, and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to have their experts create your own personal care programme.QH‑4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. iyp.me/polandblog

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Shopping

Visit the renowned Blazko jewellery workshop and gallery for some local colour you can take home with you (p.120).

WHAT TO BUY IN POLAND ALCOHOL: Vodka (see p.64) is a given and alcohol shops are in plentiful supply, but try the flavourful infusions at Szambelan (p.124), or miód pitny (mead) if the straight stuff isn’t to your taste. AMBER: Though far from the Baltic, Kraków was a major stop on the Amber Road and World of Amber (p.121) has several locations offering a huge selection of fine jewellery made from fossilised resin. BOLESŁAWIEC POTTERY: The hand-painted folk patterns of Poland’s popular ceramic brand are beloved internationally and make a great gift for anyone with a kitchen. Head to Dekor Art (p.123). FOODSTUFFS: The Poles absolutely love putting food into jars and the best place to pick up handsomelypacked local delicacies is Krakowski Kredens (p.124). ART & LIT: PL has a rich tradition of graphic art, and Kraków’s poster gallery - Galeria Plakatu (p.122) - is the place to discover it. Kraków also boasts Massolit (p.123) - one of the best English bookshops in Central Europe, so pick up some Polish literature while here. BOARDGAMES: Boardgames are back in vogue and the award-winning Polish game Kolejka (p.122) is a fun way to experience communist-era reality. Also, while perusing the Cloth Hall keep your eyes peeled for unique hand-carved three-player chess sets. 120 Kraków In Your Pocket

While Kraków can hardly be considered a shoppers’ paradise in the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery. Areas of note include Kazimerz and the open air markets - particularly Plac Targowy (E-4), while the Cloth Hall (open roughly 09:00 - 20:00, C-3) in the middle of the market square is obvious for typical local souvenirs. For the generic western experience you can hit one of the shopping malls we list, however throughout this section we’ve made a concentrated effort to focus not on recognised, international brands and franchises, but unique, home-grown businesses; so we encourage you to put your money where their mouth is. As this is PL, remember many shops close early on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether.

AMBER & JEWELLERY BLAZKO Don’t fancy amber? Not a problem. Head down to Kazimierz’s artistic Józefa Street and drop in on Gregorz Błażko - a Polish artist and designer, well-known and admired for his unique, colourful, high quality jewellery. Working in silver, brass, synthetic materials and acrylic, Błażko creates beautiful, highly sought-after rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings and more, in which you might notice touches of Hundertwasser, Miro and Klimt. Quite a character himself, his store is also his workshop, so a visit is an intimate encounter with the artist at his craft.QD‑6, ul. Józefa 11, tel. (+48) 579 05 64 56, www.blazko.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. iyp.me/krakow


Shopping GALERIA ORA Our editor’s personal go-to gift shop whenever pesky holidays like Valentine’s or Women’s Day (March 8, don’t forget!) rear their obligation-inducing heads, Galeria Ora features a great selection of unique jewellery for both sexes, the high originality and artistic value of which sets it apart from other jewellers. Of particular interest is their use of oxidisation to create a more earthy aesthetic from precious metals. Just steps from the market square, this is the perfect place to find an interesting gift and prices are well within reason. Second location in Kazimierz at ul. Józefa 6 (D-6).QB‑3, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 781 661 212, www.galeria-ora.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. WORLD OF AMBER Like a mosquito encased in golden resin, amber is inextricable from the history of Poland and Kraków. Baltic amber is the most desired of all, and tourist-laden Kraków’s location on the Amber Route means you’ve got one of the best selections in the world, crafted by master jewellers. Truth in advertising, this Schubert showcase shop really is a wondrous world of amber, with items ranging from rings and pendants to dragons and chess sets. Also at ul. Floriańska 13 and 22 (C-3), and ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Hotel, A-5).QC‑4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 14, www.worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

ART & DESIGN

ANDRZEJ MLECZKO GALLERY These anti-establishment, often blasphemous, damn funny cartoons by Poland’s favourite cartoonist and Kraków native Andrzej Mleczko are bound to remind you of someone you know. Ideal for Polish friends and family, but many of the cartoons are universal enough to make great presents and souvenirs for anyone on your list, and can be bought as original prints, or printed on mugs, shirts, bedding sets, posters and more - even boardgames.QC‑2, ul. Św. Jana 14, tel. (+48) 12 421 71 04, www.sklep.mleczko.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

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FORUM DESIGNU Freshly relocated into the trendy Tytano complex - a former tobacco factory turned urban design centre, this large, spacious showroom for Polish interior design and home accessories is one of the most fashionable places in town. Though some European firms are represented, the emphasis here is on unique local design using sustainable production methods, and the result is a gorgeous, not-atall petite sales boutique. An added bonus is the attached Forum Mody fashion showroom, and together they organise numerous design fairs, workshops and other events throughout the year.QA‑2, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 604 05 64 77, www.forumdesignu.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. iyp.me/polandblog

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Shopping ‘KOLEJKA’ BOARD GAME

If you’ve spent any time in Poland, you know that queuing is a bit of an art in this country, if not a national pastime. Well thanks to the Institute of National Remembrance, it’s also the subject of a marvelous board game. Combining humour, history and nostalgia with slick design and clever, exciting game play, Kolejka (‘Queue’) has become one of the most popular and award-winning board games in Poland. For 2-5 players, the object of the game is rather simple: each player has a family and a shopping list, all the items on which must be acquired in order to complete a rather ordinary task such as ‘getting the kids ready for camp’ or ‘preparing for first communion;’ the first player to complete their list wins the game. However, this game takes place in the historical context of 1982 Poland and, due to shortages, basic goods are limited and difficult to acquire. Game play entails players placing their family members in queues outside various shops and then using a combination of strategy and luck to slyly maneuver their pawns to the front of the line when the shops open for business. Of course, players don’t necessarily know when or which shops will be receiving a delivery, nor the quantity or specific products – all of which are actual brand items produced in PL during the communist era. Play is made more lively by the absolutely absurd but sadly real strategies employed to manipulate the queue, including borrowing someone else’s baby to get to the front of the queue or losing your position in line for badmouthing the authorities. The black market is another aspect of play where needed items may be available for barter. First designed and released in 2011 as an educational tool, Kolejka proved so popular that a multilingual edition was soon produced in English, German, Spanish, Russian, Polish and Japanese. In addition to being a “history lesson in a box,” Kolejka is also wildly fun to play and makes a uniquely Polish gift or souvenir. It retails for about 80zł and is available in most local game stores, as well as online from our own IYP Shop: iyp.me/kolejka. Standing in line was never this much fun. 122 Kraków In Your Pocket

GALERIA LUELUE This charming photography gallery/shop embraces a pre-war sepia-toned perspective on Kraków through old photographs, paintings, postcards and posters, offset slightly by more cheeky graphic designs from contemporary artists. With an emphasis on early urbania, architecture, transportation and romance, this is a great place to pick up high-quality reproductions of nostalgic photographs printed on canvas, or even on linen shoulder bags. They’ll even print your own images and designs if you upload them on their website.QD‑6, ul. Miodowa 22, tel. (+48) 728 55 10 24, www.luelue.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. GALERIA PLAKATU (POSTER GALLERY) Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art for film and theatre. Here you can browse binders of hundreds of designs for different plays, various propaganda and alternative film posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks. Many are in stock and many more available to order online. They make fantastic gifts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying a stack of unusual postcards. QC‑3, ul. Stolarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www. cracowpostergallery.com. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES IDEA FIX CONCEPT STORE The ‘idea’ here is promoting contemporary, young, independent Polish artists and designers - and for once we’re not talking about painted angels or folk pottery. This shop is straight Soho (NYC) with an alternative urban chic style and attitude that will hopefully encourage Kraków’s hundreds of DJs to pick up their duds somewhere other than H&M. Championing sustainable consumption, drop in this expansive and sexy 230m2 concept store just off Plac Wolnica to check out clothing and accessories by independent local designers, Polish films and music, Polish fibre arts, interior design and more.QE‑7, ul. Bocheńska 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 46, www.ideafix.pl. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. METQA PERCEPTION BOX A fashion showroom with a funny name and displays made out of plywood and palettes, Metqa joins a growing number of ‘concept stores’ bearing the torch for Polish fashion design. All budgets, tastes, trends and types are represented - from sequined frocks to wooden bowties to kids pajamas, and all told, Metqa isn’t so different from the nearby Forum Mody. Together they’ve made Tytano the city’s best destination for discovering local designers and start-up fashion brands.QA‑2, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 519 05 38 12, www.metqa.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. iyp.me/krakow


Shopping GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

ENGLISH BOOKSTORE

CLOTH HALL (SUKIENNICE) Your best and easiest bet for gifts in Kraków. Essentially the world’s oldest shopping mall, inside this architectural marvel in the middle of the market square you’ll find dozens of stalls selling amber jewellery, lacework, cloth handicrafts, wood carvings, sheepskin rugs and all sorts of Polish souvenirs and trinkets at prices that are actually more reasonable than you’d anticipate.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 1/3. Open 09:00 - 20:00, but really it’s up to the vendors. DEKOR ART If you’re not familiar with Bolesławiec - Poland’s wellloved folk ceramic brand, head here straightaway to get introduced. Crammed full of colourful tableware with simple, hand-painted and highly-recognisable folk motifs, this bargain shop is sure to help you make someone on your list happy.QC‑2, ul. Sławkowska 11, tel. (+48) 515 45 29 69. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. KACPER RYX Enter via the same door as the Hipolit House museum, and step into what a gift shop may have looked like centuries ago, if there were such a thing. This small “historical shop” offers swords, armour and weaponry; leather flasks, pouches and bags; historical wood-prints and archaeological replicas; beer steins, goblets and pottery; cowls, dresses and other medieval apparel - all of it highquality, hand-made and fairly priced.QC‑3, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 426 45 49, www.kacperryx.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. KRAKUSKA SZTUKA LUDOWA If it’s folky local souvenirs you’re after, this fantastic gift shop is only a minute from the market square, and basically the entire Cloth Hall condensed into two rooms (with no crowds). Explore a diverse range of decently-priced quality souvenirs, including weavings, tapestries, rugs and embroidery, Bolesławiec ceramic, old fashioned toys and trinkets, paper cutouts, postcards, painted glass, chess sets, folk costumes, embroidered slippers and more.QB‑3, ul. Szewska 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 04. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAFÉ The best English-language bookstore in Central Europe, owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With books on all subjects and specialising in Polish, East European and Jewish literature in English, here you’ll also find recent English language periodicals (store copies) to peruse over coffee and a slice of pie, or even a glass of wine. Stocked with remaindered books from the States, the selection is surprisingly good, and the prices are the best you’ll find anywhere. This legendary establishment has been long-running but constantly needs and deserves support. Still if you’re on a budget you can trade the novel you finished on the train for credit towards a new one. Also look for their bakery nearby at ul. Smoleńsk 17 (A-4). QA‑4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, www. massolit.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.

DEKOR ART

ROCK SHOP You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe, and is there anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than a Hard Rock t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Kraków’ tee to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St. Mary’s Basilica. Classic white may cost 100zł, but the memory of buying it - priceless.QC‑3, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/ krakow. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

Full contents online: krakow.inyourpocket.com iyp.me/polandblog

February - March 2017

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Shopping MARKETS

FOOD & ALCOHOL DELIKATESY 13 Located in the basement of Kraków’s nicest, most central shopping mall, this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range of high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties of Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking oils and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as delicious locallymade preservative free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes are also made daily. The ideal place to go if you’re planning an intimate dinner part, Delikatesy 13 is packed with outstanding goods, and the adjacent wine shop offers a top selection.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

PLAC NOWY This historic square was a Jewish market in the pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher slaughterhouse. Today you’ll still find butcher shops inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In the open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse produce and junk are sold daily, but in the mornings you never know what you’ll find: Saturdays are junk/ antiques, on Sundays it’s all clothing, while Friday mornings it’s a full-on pigeon fair from 05:30 - 07:30. Other markets begin around 07:00 and generally end by early to mid-afternoon, depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns into one of the best drinking destinations in town, lined with atmospheric bars. QD‑6, www.placnowy.pl. PLAC TARGOWY UNITARG Open every day with everything from fruit, flowers and produce to pirated DVDs, dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches, on Sundays this popular outdoor market becomes a sprawling full-blown flea market of Old World antiques, Catholic icons, village detritus, vinyl records, war memorabilia, mismatched shoes, stolen bikes and pretty much anything you can dream of at negotiable prices. Different vendors set their own hours, but on weekends most are here shortly after dawn and packing up anytime between 14:00 and sunset. At night on Plac Targowy you’ll find two 24hour alcky shops and the best grilled kiełbasa in town, sold from a van (p.54).QE‑4, ul. Grzegórzecka, tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.krakow.pl. STARY KLEPARZ A tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered marketplace just north of the Barbican offers bargain prices and the best selection in the city for local produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices, socks, sweaters and whatever oddball commodities are the order of the day during your visit.QC/D‑1, Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32, www. starykleparz.com. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. 124 Kraków In Your Pocket

KOPERNIK A traditional dating back to the 15th century, Toruń gingerbread is world-renowned and you can purchase their range of novelty sweets in Kraków at this enticing shop.QC‑4, ul. Grodzka 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 13 06, www.kopernik.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. KRAKOWSKI KREDENS An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive, yet exquisite, Galician delicacies - including jams, honeys, liquors, cured meats, candies and pickled things. This is the perfect place to pick up handsomely packaged, unequivocally Cracovian consumable goodies, and, when available, a warm roll with their sliced pork and mustard from the street-side window is actually a gourmet street food bargain at only 5-9zł (depending on weight). Also in the Galeria Krakowska and Bonarka City Centre shopping malls.QC‑3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel. (+48) 696 49 00 12, www. krakowskikredens.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. REGIONALNE ALKOHOLE Kraków’s best, most diverse alcohol shop - ideal for an education in Polish vodkas and the exploding Polish craft beer movement. The selection of mostly-Polish brews reaches up to 300(!) and there are literally hundreds of vodkas and other quality Polish spirits to whet your palette, plus a knowledgeable staff to make deciding all the easier. QE‑6, ul. Miodowa 28A, tel. (+48) 533 59 33 35, www. regionalnealkohole.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. SZAMBELAN A huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish absinthes decanted from enormous Erlenmeyer flasks. The exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they can ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and stuffing it in your luggage (or just strolling the Planty... wait, no). Sample first, sample often.QC‑3, ul. Gołębia 2 (entrance from ul. Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. iyp.me/krakow


Shopping SHOPPING MALLS BONARKA CITY CENTER Located just beyond the limits of the IYP map (imaginary coordinates K‑6), Bonarka offers 91,000m2 of retail space with about 190 shops (including Auchan, Leroy Merlin and Media Expert), over 20 restaurants and cafes, the largest cinema complex in the city and 3,200 free parking spaces. Built on the site of a former chemical plant - the iconic smokestack of which remains - the heart of this ‘city within a city’ features eight two-storey palm trees flanking a fountain under a glass ceiling. To get there take buses 144, 169, 173, 174, 179 or 184 getting off at the ‘Bonarka’ stop. Qul. Kamieńskiego 11 (Podgórze), tel. (+48) 12 298 60 00, www.bonarkacitycenter.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. FACTORY OUTLET 15 minutes from the city centre, this outlet mall features 120 foreign and domestic brands - including Levi’s, Reserved, Calzedonia, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Simple, Pepe Jeans, New Balance and more - at 30-70% off the prices you’d expect elsewhere. You can get there by catching a free bus from Rondo Matecznego (I‑5) or Plac Centralny (O-4).Qul. Rożańskiego 32, Modlniczka, tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00, www. krakow.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

BUTIK LCS - GUCCI, SAINT LAURENT, CHLOÉ, JIMMY CHOO, DSQUARED2, KENZO, STELLA McCARTNEY, MCQ, JUST CAVALLI, EMPORIO ARMANI, PAUL SMITH, ETRO, ANDRÉ GRAND COLETTI, CERRUTI 1881, THOMPSON LONDON, VERSACE, BAGATT, DIESEL, DIAMANTI, IPM DESIGN - MULHOLLAND LIFE, PURE, KISS THE FROG, D.EFECT, MELISSA, L’OCCITANE, LOOKBOOK MOKOBELLE, LOUVE WITH EVOLUE – ROBERT KUPISZ, PAPROCKI & BRZOZOWSKI, GOSIA BACZYŃSKA, ŁUKASZ JEMIOŁ, 303 AVENUE, NATALIA JAROSZYŃSKA, WESTWOOD EYEWEAR, MAGGIE PIU, MANIEWSKI, NESPRESSO, TUTTI COLORI - MONALISA, CARAMELLA, MINI MELLISA, BUNNY WHITE, VINICIO PAJARO, WOLFORD, LCONCEPT 13 - BAR & RESTAURANT 13, DELIKATESY 13, VINOTEKA 13

GALERIA KAZIMIERZ Opened in 2005, Galeria Kazimierz is still Kraków’s most likeable shopping centre, boasting over 150 retail units including media giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion outfitters H&M, Big Star, Zara and Simple, jewellers W. Kruk, YES and Swarovski, plus plenty of food options. For recreational needs GK also touts a cinema and fitness club. Easily accessed on foot, those arriving by car have 1,160 parking spaces to pick from (first two hours free). QJ‑3, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 01 01, www. galeriakazimierz.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. GALERIA KRAKOWSKA Hard to miss since it’s been sneakily incorporated into the train station, making it one of the most centrally located shopping malls in Europe. Covering 60,000m2 over 3 floors, among their 250 stores you’ll find H&M, Peek & Cloppenburg, Saturn and Carrefour, plus 1400 parking spaces, and a bustling food court. The mall and large square in front of it also host frequent exhibits and events, contributing to the revival of this once-dodgy area.QD‑1, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48) 12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PASAŻ 13 This gorgeous old Rynek townhouse was converted into a snazzy upscale shopping area in 2005 to become the first branch of the trademark Likus Concept Stores. Much nicer than your typical shopping mall, Pasaż 13 has over a dozen designer shops to peruse, plus a fine Italian delicatessen and the L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant in the cellar, which have their own hours.QC‑3, Rynek Główny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. iyp.me/polandblog

MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13 OPEN: 9 AM - 9 PM; 11 AM - 5 PM

www.pasaz-13.pl

www.concept13.pl February - March 2017

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Directory 24HR PHARMACIES

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES

APTEKA DBAM O ZDROWIEQI‑5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel. (+48) 12 656 18 50, www.doz.pl.

DENMARKQB‑3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, www.nordichouse.pl. ESTONIAQC‑3, ul. Floriańska 15/4, tel. (+48) 12 429 16 98. FINLANDQB‑3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, www.nordichouse.pl. GERMANYQC‑3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30 00, www.krakau.diplo.de. HUNGARYQE‑2, ul. Lubicz 17 H, tel. (+48) 12 359 99 20. ICELANDQB‑3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, www.nordichouse.pl. INSTYTUT FRANCUSKIQC‑4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 53 50, www.cracovie.org.pl. JAPANQI‑2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43 59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp. MEXICOQul. Wiedeńska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 505 03 49 49. NORWAYQK‑2, ul. Mosiężnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 633 03 76, www.amb-norwegia.pl. RUSSIAQB‑1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47, www.krakow.mid.ru. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. SLOVAKIAQD‑3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425 49 70, www.cgcracow.mfa.sk. SWEDENQB‑3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, www.nordichouse.pl. UKQul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www.gov.uk/government/world/poland. UKRAINEQK‑2, Al. Beliny-Prażmowskiego 4, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 66, www.krakow.mfa.gov.ua. Open 09:00 12:00, Thu 13:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. USAQC‑3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00, pl.usembassy.gov/embassy-consulate/krakow.

APTEKA POD OPATRZNOŚCIĄ QB‑2, ul. Karmelicka 23, tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.

24HR SHOPS ALBI MARKETQB‑3, ul. Podwale 6. CARREFOUR EXPRESS QD‑6, ul. Dietla 40, www.carrefour.pl. JUBILATQH‑3, Al. Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 80 40, www.jubilat.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 19:00. Closed Sun.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE

Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Kraków, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve vetted local exchange offices for you and assembled a list of well-located kantors that won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission. In Kraków’s Old Town, you’ll find kantors all along ul. Floriańska (C-2/3), but it’s two streets over on ul. Sławkowska (C-2) that you’ll find better, more competitive prices - this is the best place to go rate hunting near the market square. KANTORQJ‑3, ul. Podgórska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz), tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. KANTORQD‑1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel. (+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. KANTOR CFSQD‑2, ul. Pawia 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 33 33. Open 24hrs. KANTOR GROSZQC‑2, ul. Sławkowska 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 78 22. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 126 Kraków In Your Pocket

DENTISTS DENTA-MED Also at ul. Św. Gertrudy 4 (D-4) and ul. Augustiańska 13 (D-7) - both open 08:00 - 21:00.QJ‑4, ul. Na Zjeździe 13, tel. (+48) 12 259 80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Open 24hrs.. DENTESTETICA QJ‑1, ul. Kamienna 21, tel. (+48) 887 05 05 01, www. dentestetica.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

EMERGENCY ROOM UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL QJ‑2, ul. Kopernika 50, tel. (+48) 12 351 66 01, www. su.krakow.pl. iyp.me/krakow


Directory LAUNDRY FRANIA CAFE Kraków’s first and only laundromat cafe, let them do it for you, or wash it yourself, while enjoying wifi, boardgames, coffee, beer and booze from the bar.QE‑5, ul. Starowiślna 26, tel. (+48) 783 94 50 21, www.franiacafe.pl. Open 10:30 - 24:00. 6­G­W PEPE PRALNIA A high-quality self-service laundromat right in the centre of Kazimierz, this family company has great prices. Second location on the north side of the Old Town at ul. Długa 58 (I-1).QD‑6, ul. Dietla 51, tel. (+48) 666 11 11 19, www. pepepralnia.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

The best Kraków

has to offer in one great app

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKA QD‑4, ul. Westerplatte 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 14 91, www. poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. POCZTA POLSKA QD/E‑2, ul. Lubicz 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 91 68, www. poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

PRIVATE CLINICS ARS MEDICA QD‑1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423 38 34, www. ars-medica.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. MEDICOVER Also at ul. Bobrzyńskiego 37 (Dębniki, same hours as listed here), and ul. Bora Komorowskiego 25B (Prądnik Czerwony, open from 07:00 Mon-Fri).QK‑3, ul. Podgórska 36, tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl. Open 07:30 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

City Essentials

RELIGIOUS SERVICES ST. BARBARA’S Holy Mass in German is held here each Sunday at 14:30. Located directly behind St. Mary’s Basilica, check the information display inside the church to confirm mass times.QC‑3, Mały Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 12 428 15 00, www. swbarbara.jezuici.pl. ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA Masses in Italian held every Sunday at 15:30, and in Spanish every second Sunday of the month at 14:30.QC‑4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www. franciszkanska.pl. ST. GILES CHURCH Holy Mass in English each Sunday at 10:30.QC‑5, ul. Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

Only our favourite places Incl. Events, Maps Free, Works offline Incl. over 50 cities www.iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

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Hotels

No matter your budget, thanks to Kraków’s ascent into elite status as a European destination, there is no lack of accommodation options in this fabled city. From fancy 5-star affairs to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and breakfasts, historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels you certainly shouldn’t struggle to find yourself a place to sleep. On our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - we list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and around Kraków, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include all of that content here as we once did, however we still provide an updated list of reputable hotels, apartments and hostels below. Sleep well.

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Guarded parking on site

6 Animal friendly

w Wellness

C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available

128 Kraków In Your Pocket

CREAM OF THE CROP COPERNICUS QC‑5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 34 00, www. copernicus.hotel.com.pl. 29 rooms (4 singles, 17 doubles, 8 suites). P­H­6­F­LK ­ ­DC ­ ­w hhhhh GRAND QC‑2, ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08 00, www.grand.pl. 64  rooms (10  singles, 45  doubles, 9 apartments). P­H­6U ­ ­FL ­ ­KD ­ hhhhh GRÓDEK QD‑3, ul. Na Gródku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30, www. donimirski.com. 23  rooms (21  singles, 18  doubles, 2 suites). P­H6 ­ ­U­LK ­ ­D hhhhh HOLIDAY INN KRAKOW CITY CENTER QD‑4, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www. hik.krakow.pl. 237  rooms (236  singles, 236  doubles, 1  Presidential Apartment). P­H6 ­ U ­ ­F­K hhhhh HOTEL STARY QC‑2, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384 08 08, www. hotel.com.pl. 78 rooms (8 singles, 53 doubles, 6 suites, 7 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). P­H­6U ­ ­F­L­ K­D­X­C­w hhhhh iyp.me/krakow


Hotels NIEBIESKI ART HOTEL & SPA QH‑3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, www. niebieski.com.pl. 40  rooms (38  singles, 38  doubles, 2 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­K­D­w hhhhh RADISSON BLU QB‑4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 12 618 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow. 196  rooms (142  singles, 142  doubles, 19  apartments, 35  Business Class Rooms). P­H­6­U­F­K­D­w hhhhh SHERATON GRAND KRAKOW QA‑5, ul. Powiśle 7, tel. (+48) 12 662 10 00, www. sheratongrandkrakow.com. 232  rooms (221  singles, 221 doubles, 10 suites, 1 Presidential Wawel Apartment). P­H­6U ­ ­F­K­D­X­C hhhhh

UPMARKET AMADEUS QD‑3, ul. Mikołajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 70, www. hotel-amadeus.pl. 22  rooms (20  singles, 20  doubles, 2 apartments). P­H­U­F­L­K­D hhhh AMBER BOUTIQUE HOTELS QB‑2, ul. Garbarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 06, www. hotel-amber.pl. 38  rooms (17  singles, 29  doubles, 8 triples, 6 suites). P­H­6­U­F­D ANDEL’S BY VIENNA HOUSE CRACOW QD‑2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12 660 01 00, www. viennahouse.com. 159 rooms (153 singles, 153 doubles, 6 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­K­D hhhh FRANCUSKI QC‑2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, www. hotel-francuski.com.pl. 42 rooms (4 singles, 23 doubles, 15 apartments). H­6­F­K hhhh GALAXY QK‑3, ul. Gęsia 22A, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00, www. galaxyhotel.pl. 205  rooms (200  singles, 200  doubles, 50  triples, 5  suites). P­H­U­F­L­K­D­X­C­w hhhh HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKÓW QI‑4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, www.hgi.com. 154  rooms (147  singles, 147  doubles, 7 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­K hhhh

Vanilla Sky Hotel Niebieski ul.Flisacka 3 Salwator, Kraków 12 297 40 00 biuro@niebieski.com.pl www.niebieski.com.pl

HOTEL KANONICZA 22 QC‑5, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel. (+48) 603 95 13 77, www. kanonicza22.com. 3 rooms (3 apartments). P­K HOTEL KOSSAK QA‑5, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379 59 00, www. hotelkossak.pl. 60  rooms (55  singles, 55  doubles, 5 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­K­D­X hhhh iyp.me/polandblog

February - March 2017

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Hotels BŁONIA MEADOW

HOTEL RUBINSTEIN QE���6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48) 12 384 00 00, www. rubinstein.pl. 30 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5 suites). P­H­K­D hhhh HOTEL SENACKI QC‑4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 86, www. hotelsenacki.pl. 20  rooms (20  singles, 16  doubles, 2 suites). P­6U ­ ­F­LK ­ hhhh HOTEL UNICUS QC‑2, ul. Św. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12 433 71 11, www. hotelunicus.pl. 35  rooms (8  singles, 26  doubles, 1 apartment). P­HL ­ ­K­D hhhh NEW MERCURE KRAKÓW OLD TOWN QD‑1, ul. Pawia 18B, tel. (+48) 12 225 11 11, www. mercure.com. 198  rooms (198  singles, 198  doubles). P­H­6­U­F­L­K hhhh

A massive and inexplicably undeveloped tract of greenery directly west of the Old Town, the Błonia is a huge, triangular open space measuring nearly 50 hectares. Technically a park, although lacking any trees or other defining characteristics, the Polish name ‘Błonie’ denotes a ‘meadow’ - something of an amiable linguistic redressing of the Błonia’s true and unchanged historical function: it’s a cow pasture. The area’s ability to survive to modern times as the largest city centre open space in Europe can be credited to a perfect storm of boggy undesirability, a centuries-long ownership dispute, and finally a medieval legislative wrinkle. Used by locals to graze cattle even midway into the 20th century, when the now-defunct Cracovia Hotel was built next to it in 1965 the city moved to permanently ban unfashionable bovines from the Błonia, only to find themselves obstructed by an apparently still legally binding 14th century decree by Queen Jadwiga which they would have to sort out with Warsaw. Warsaw not being the most cooperative or expedient bureaucratic partner in those times, city council decided to stick with the status quo, making it perfectly acceptable for you to air old Bessie on the Błonia to this day. Though a great idea for a city-wide one day annual event (called ‘Bovines on the Błonia’ - make it happen, Mr. Mayor), these days the green triangle has primarily become the favourite leisure space of dogs and their frisbee chasing, ball playing owners, while the perimeter is a popular track for cycling, running and roller-blading; in winter it hosts cross-country skiers and an ice rink. Protected as a National Heritage Site since 2000, the Błonia is ideal for large-scale outdoor events, hosting numerous concerts, rallies and - most notably - historic open air masses by Pope John Paul II during his visits to Kraków, and recently Pope Francis during late July’s World Youth Day celebrations.QG‑3. 130 Kraków In Your Pocket

METROPOLITAN BOUTIQUE HOTEL QJ‑3, ul. Joselewicza 19, tel. (+48) 12 442 75 00, www. hotelmetropolitan.pl. 59 rooms (58 singles, 58 doubles, 4 triples, 1 suite). P­HU ­ ­FK ­ hhhh NOVOTEL KRAKÓW CENTRUM QH‑3, ul. Kościuszki 5, tel. (+48) 12 299 29 00, www. novotel.com. 198  rooms (192  singles, 192  doubles, 6 apartments). P­H­6U ­ ­FK ­ ­DC ­ ­w hhhh PARK INN BY RADISSON KRAKOW QA‑7, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www. parkinn.com/hotel-krakow. 152  rooms (152  singles, 152 doubles). P­H­6­UF ­ K ­ ­D­w hhhh POD RÓŻĄ (UNDER THE ROSE) QC‑3, ul. Floriańska 14, tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.lhr. com.pl. 57 rooms (50 singles, 37 doubles, 7 apartments). P­H­6­F­K­D hhhh POLSKI POD BIAŁYM ORŁEM QC‑2, ul. Pijarska 17, tel. (+48) 12 422 11 44, www. donimirski.com. 60  rooms (30  singles, 22  doubles, 5 triples, 3 suites). P­H6 ­ ­U­K hhhh PURO HOTEL KRAKÓW QD‑1, ul. Ogrodowa 10, tel. (+48) 12 314 21 00, www. purohotel.pl. 138  rooms (131  singles, 131  doubles, 7 suites). P­H6 ­ ­U­K hhhh QUBUS HOTEL KRAKÓW QJ‑4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6, tel. (+48) 12 374 51 00, www. qubushotel.com. 194  rooms (183  singles, 170  doubles, 10 suites, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­FK ­ ­D­C hhhh WENTZLQC‑3, Rynek Główny 19, tel. (+48) 12 430 26 64, www.wentzl.pl. 18 rooms (18 singles, 18 doubles, 7 triples). P­6­LK ­ hhhh iyp.me/krakow


Hotels MID-RANGE ASCOT HOTEL QE‑3, ul. Radziwiłłowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 384 06 06, www.hotelascot.pl. 49  rooms (49  singles, 36  doubles, 7 triples, 2 quads). P­H­6­U hhh CAMPANILEQD‑3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424 26 00, www.campanile.com. 106  rooms (105  singles, 105 doubles, 43 triples, 1 suite). P­H­6­U hhh CLASSICQD‑3, ul. Św. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03 03, www.hotel-classic.pl. 31  rooms (26  singles, 26 doubles, 3 triples, 5 apartments). P­6U ­ hhh EDENQE‑6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, www.hoteleden.pl. 27  rooms (25  singles, 21  doubles, 5 triples, 2 suites). P­H­6­U­D hhh FLORYANQC‑2, ul. Floriańska 38, tel. (+48) 12 431 14 18, www.floryan.com.pl. 21  rooms (21  singles, 21 doubles, 8 triples, 3 quads). P­H­6K ­ hhh HOTEL DAVIDQE‑6, ul. Ciemna 13, tel. (+48) 12 619 24 70, www.hoteldavid.pl. 21  rooms (5  singles, 16 doubles). P­H­6­U­G­K hhh HOTEL KAZIMIERZQD‑6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, www.hk.com.pl. 38  rooms (38  singles, 28 doubles, 2 triples). P­H­6 hhh HOTEL KAZIMIERZ IIQE‑5, ul. Starowiślna 60, tel. (+48) 12 426 80 70, www.hk.com.pl. 25  rooms (25 singles, 23 doubles). H­6 hhh IBIS KRAKÓW CENTRUMQA‑5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 33 00, www.accorhotels.com. 175  rooms (175 singles, 175 doubles). P­6­U­K hhh IBIS KRAKÓW STARE MIASTOQJ‑1, ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 00, www.accorhotels.com. 135  rooms (135  singles, 135  doubles, 16  triples). P­H­6­U­K hhh KARMELQE‑6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 97, www.karmel.com.pl. 11  rooms (4  singles, 6  doubles, 1 suite). 6­K hhh MALTAŃSKIQB‑4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 10, www.donimirski.com. 16 rooms (16 singles, 14 doubles). H­6­U­L hhh MATEJKOQD‑1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37, www.matejkohotel.pl. 51 rooms (48 singles, 45 doubles, 3 apartments). H­6­U­K hhh POD WAWELEMQB‑5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12 426 26 25, www.hotelpodwawelem.pl. 48 rooms (47 singles, 42 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­KD ­ hhh iyp.me/polandblog

February - March 2017

131


Hotels POLLERA QD‑3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44, www. pollera.com.pl. 42 rooms (7 singles, 24 doubles, 7 triples, 2 quads, 2 apartments). H­6 hhh ROYAL QC‑5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 35 00, www.hotelewam.pl. 102 rooms (34 singles, 38 doubles, 14  triples, 13  suites, 3  apartments). P­H­6­UK ­ hhh RUCZAJ Qul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00, www.ruczajhotel. com.pl. 45  rooms (25  singles, 17  doubles, 12  triples, 4 quads, 4 suites). P­H­6U ­ ­K­D hhh

Airconditioned suites, Art Nouveau ambiance, situated in the very heart of the Old Town... ul. Szpitalna 30, 31-024 Kraków Tel. +48 12 422 10 44, Fax: +48 12 422 13 89 rezerwacja@pollera.com.pl, www.pollera.com.pl

VIENNA HOUSE EASY CHOPIN CRACOW QK‑2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 00 00, www. viennahouse.com. 220  rooms (212  singles, 7  doubles, 1 apartment). P­H6 ­ ­U­FK ­ D ­ hhh WAWEL QC‑4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00, www. hotelwawel.pl. 38  rooms (9  singles, 28  doubles, 1 apartment). P­HK ­ ­D­w hhh WIELOPOLE QD‑4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14 75, www. wielopole.pl. 35 rooms (9 singles, 27 doubles, 9 triples). P­6­U­K hhh WYSPIAŃSKI QD‑3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 95 66, www. hotel-wyspianski.pl. 231 rooms (41 singles, 109 doubles, 81 triples). H­6­UF ­ ­LK ­ hhh

As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow just 5km from the Market Square, we offer silence and comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also offer a sauna and tanning bed.

Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Kraków tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30 e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl www.ruczajhotel.pl

BUDGET IBIS BUDGET KRAKÓW STARE MIASTO QJ‑1, ul. Pawia 11, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 50, www. accorhotels.com. 167 rooms (167 singles, 167 doubles). P­6­U h INDALO ROOMS QB‑4, ul. Tarłowska 15, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 91, www. cafeindalo.pl. 6  rooms (5  singles, 5  doubles, 2  triples, 1 Suite). 6 TOURNET QD‑6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88, www. accommodation.krakow.pl. 18  rooms (17  singles, 16 doubles, 10 triples). 6­K TRZY KAFKI GUEST ROOMS QB‑3, ul. Straszewskiego 25, tel. (+48) 12 632 48 56, www.trzykafki.pl. 19  rooms (15  singles, 15  doubles, 2  triples, 5  quads, 7  Five-person room, 3  Six-person room, 1 Seven-person room). 6

132 Kraków In Your Pocket

iyp.me/krakow


Hotels

APARTMENTS

HOSTELS

ANTIQUE APARTMENTS QB‑2, Plac Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 67, www.antiqueapartments.pl. 41 rooms (41 apartments) Breakfast 25zł. P­6

GOOD BYE LENIN PUB & GARDEN QJ‑3, ul. Joselewicza 23, tel. (+48) 12 421 20 30, www. goodbyelenin.pl. 14  rooms (4  singles, 4  doubles, 62 dorm beds).

APARTMENT CRACOWQC‑2, ul. Floriańska 39, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 26, www.apartmentcracow.com. 30 rooms (30 apartments). 6­K

GREG & TOM BEER HOUSE QC‑2, ul. Floriańska 43, tel. (+48) 12 421 28 64, www. gregtomhostel.com. 10 rooms (92 dorm beds). K

B&B LA FONTAINE QC‑3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, www. bblafontaine.com. 11 rooms (11 apartments). K

LITTLE HAVANA PARTY HOSTEL QB‑3, ul. Jagiellońska 10, tel. (+48) 660 56 24 00, www.thelittlehavanahostel.com. 14  rooms (2  doubles, 124 dorm beds).

KRAKOW CITY APARTMENTS QD‑2, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel. (+48) 507 20 30 50, www. krakowapartments.info. 14 rooms (14 apartments). KRAKOW FOR YOU APARTMENTS QC‑3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 48 35, www. krakowforyou.com. 12 rooms (12 apartments). 6 RED BRICK QD‑1, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. (+48) 12 628 66 00, www. redbrick.pl. 15 rooms (15 apartments). 6 RED KURKA QC‑4, ul. Św. Gertrudy 5, tel. (+48) 535 91 91 35, www. redkurka.com. 3 rooms (3 apartments). 6 iyp.me/polandblog

MOMOTOWN QD‑6, ul. Miodowa 28, tel. (+48) 12 429 69 29, www.momotownhostel.com. 20  rooms (10  singles, 10 doubles, 80 dorm beds). PINK PANTHER’S HOSTEL QC‑2, ul. Św. Tomasza 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 35, www. pinkpanthershostel.com. 13 rooms (2 doubles, 66 dorm beds). SECRET GARDEN HOSTEL QD‑7, ul. Skawińska 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 45, www. thesecretgarden.pl. 30  rooms (30  singles, 30  doubles, 5 triples). 6 February - March 2017

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Street Register 29 Listopada, Al. J‑1 3 Maja, Al. G/H‑2/3 Akacjowa L‑1 Akademicka H‑2 Aliny L‑1 Altanowa G‑1 Ariańska J‑2 Armii Krajowej, Al. F/G‑1 Asnyka B‑1/2 Augustiańska D‑6-7 Bajeczna L‑3 Bałuckiego A‑6 Bandtkiego F‑1 Bandurskiego K‑1/2 Barska A/B‑6/7 Bartosza E‑6 Basztowa C/D‑2 Batorego I‑2 Beliny-Prażmowskiego, Al. K‑1/2 Berka Joselewicza E‑5 Bernardyńska B/C‑5/6 Biała Droga H‑4 Biernackiego H‑1 Biskupia B‑1 Blachnickiego, ks. J‑3 Blich J‑3 Bobrowskiego K‑3 Boczna H‑4 Bogusławskiego D-5 Bohomolca L‑1 Bocheńska J‑4 Bonerowska E‑4 Bonifraterska D‑7 Bora-Komorowskiego, gen. K/L‑1 Borowego F‑2 Bosacka E‑1/2 Bożego Ciała D‑6/7 Boznańskiej K‑1 Bracka C‑3/4 Brązownicza F‑2 Brodowicza K‑1/2 Bronowicka F/G‑1 Brzozowa D‑5 Bułhaka A‑7 Buszka F/G‑2 Bydgoska G‑1/2 Bytomska H‑1 Ceglarska H‑5 Celna J‑4 Chmielowskiego I/J‑4 Chocimska H‑1/2 Chodkiewicza J‑3 Chodowieckiego G‑2 Chopina H‑2 Ciemna E‑6 Cieszyńska I‑1 Cicha F‑1 Ćwiklowa F‑5 Cybulskiego A‑3 Cystersów L‑2/3 Czapskich A‑3 Czarnieckiego J‑4 Czarnowiejska H‑2 Czarodziejska G/H‑4 Czysta A‑2 Czyżówka J‑5 Dąbrowskiego, gen. K‑4 Dąbska L‑2 Dajwór E‑6 Daszyńskiego J‑3/4 Dębnicka H‑4 Dębowa A‑7 Dekerta K‑4 Dembowskiego J/K‑5 Dietla C/E‑4/6 Długa C‑1 Długosza J‑5 Dobrego Pasterza K/L‑1 Dolnych Młynów A‑2 Dominikańska C‑4 Droga do Zamku B/C‑5-6 Dunajewskiego B/C‑2 Dworska H‑4 Dzielskiego K/L‑1 Estery D‑6 Fabryczna L‑2/3 Fałata H‑3 Feldmana A‑1 Felicjanek A‑4 Fenn’a Sereno I‑2 Filarecka H‑3 Flisacka H‑3/4 Floriańska C/D‑2/3 Focha, Al. marsz. G/H‑3

Franciszkańska B/C‑4 Friedleina I‑1 Galla G/H‑1 Garbarska B‑2 Garczyńskiego K‑2 Garncarska H‑2/3 Gazowa E‑7 Gęsia K‑3 Głowackiego G‑1 Goetla G‑2 Gołębia B‑3 Gontyna G‑3 Grabowskiego A‑1 Gramatyka G‑1 Grodzka C‑3/5 Gromadzka L‑4/5 Grottgera H/I‑1 Grunwaldzka K‑1/2 Gryfity G‑3 Grzegórzecka E‑4 Gzymsików I‑1 Halicka J‑3/4 Helclów I‑1 Herlinga-Grudzińskiego K‑4 Heweliusza L‑5 Hofmana F‑3 Humberta H‑3 Igrców G‑2 Ingardena H‑3 Izaaka D/E‑6 Jabłonowskich H/I‑3 Jadwigi z Łobzowa F/G‑1 Jagiellońska B‑2/3 Jachowicza L‑2 Jakuba E‑6 Jaskółcza H‑3 Joselewicza J‑3 Józefa D/E‑6 Józefitów H‑1 Kadecka G‑1 Kalwaryjska I/J‑5 Kamienna I/J‑1 Kamieńskiego I/J‑5 Kanonicza C‑4/5 Kapelanka H‑4/5 Kapucyńska A/B‑3 Karłowicza H‑2 Karmelicka A/B‑1/2 Kasztelańska G/H‑3 Kazimierza Odnowiciela K‑1 Kazimierza Wielkiego G/H‑1 Kielecka K‑1/2 Kiełkowskiego K/L‑4 Kijowska, Al. G/H‑1/2 Kilińskiego A‑7 Klimeckiego K/L‑4 Kmieca H‑1 Kobierzyńska H‑5 Kochanowskiego A‑1/2 Koletek C‑6 Kołłątaja E‑3 Komandosów I‑4/5 Konarskiego H‑2 Konfederacka A‑7 Konopnickiej A/B‑5/7 Konwisarzy F‑1/2 Kopernika D/E‑3 Kordylewskiego K‑2/3 Kościuszki H‑3 Kosynierów L‑2 Kotlarska K‑3 Koźlarska L‑5 Krakowska D‑6/7 Krasickiego I‑5 Krasińskiego, Al. H‑3 Kraszewskiego H‑3 Kredowa F‑5 Kremerowska A‑1 Królewska H‑1 Królowej Jadwigi F/G‑2/3 Krótka C‑1 Krowoderska C‑1 Krupnicza A/B‑2/3 Krzemionki J‑5 Krzesławicka L‑1 Krzywa C‑1 Krzywda L‑4/5 ks. Kordeckiego C‑6/7 Księcia Józefa F/G‑4 Kujawska H‑1 Kupa E‑6 Kurkowa J‑2 Kurniki D‑1 Kwartowa L‑1

140 Kraków In Your Pocket

Lanckorońska K‑5 Lea F/H‑1/2 Legionów Piłsudskiego J‑4/5 Lenartowicza H/I‑1/2 Leszczynowa F‑3 Lewkowa E‑6 Limanowskiego J/K‑4 Lipowa K‑4 Litewska H‑1 Loretańska A‑2/3 Lubelska I‑1 Lubicz D/E‑2 Lublańska K‑1 Lubomirskiego J/K‑2 Ludowa K‑5 Ludwinowska I‑4/5 Lwowska J-K/4 Łobzowska B‑1/2 Madalińskiego A‑6 Mała A‑4 Malczewskiego F/G‑3-4 Mały Rynek C‑3 Masarska K‑3 Matejki, Pl. I/J‑2 Mazowiecka H/I‑1 Meiselsa D‑6 Metalowców E‑3/4 Mickiewicza, Al. H‑2 Michałowskiego A‑1/2 Michałowskiego H/I‑2 Mikołajska C/D‑3 Miodowa D/E‑5/6 Mitery I‑5 Mlaskotów H‑3 Młyńska K‑1 Mogilska K/L‑1/2 Moniuszki K‑2 Monte Cassino A‑7 Montelupich I‑1 Mosiężnicza K‑2 Mostowa D/E‑7 Na Gródku D‑3 Na Przejściu E‑6 Na Szaniec L‑3 Na Ustroniu I‑4 Na Zjeździe J‑4 Nadwislanska J‑4 Nawojki G‑2 Oboźna H‑1 Odlewnicza F‑1/2 Odrowąża I‑1 Ofiar Dąbia L‑3 Ogrodowa D‑1 Oleandry H‑2/3 Olszańska K‑1 Orawska I‑5 Orzeszkowej C‑6/7 Owcy-Orwicza F‑3 Paderewskiego C/D‑1 Paproci L‑4 Parkowa J‑5 Patynów G‑4 Paulińska C‑6/7 Pawia D‑1/2 Pawlickiego, ks. H‑4/5 Pędzichów I‑1/2 Piastowska F/G‑1/3 Piekarska C/D‑7 Pietrusińskiego G‑4/5 Pijarów K/L‑1 Pijarska C/D‑2 Piłsudskiego A/B‑3/4 Piwna J‑4 Pl. Bawół E‑6 Pl. Bernardyński C‑5 Pl. Biskupi B/C‑1 Pl. Bohaterów Getta J‑4 Pl. gen. Sikorskiego A‑3 Pl. Inwalidów H‑2 Pl. Kossaka A‑5 Pl. Mariacki C‑3 Pl. Matejki D‑1/2 Pl. Na Groblach B‑4/5 Pl. Nowy D‑6 Pl. Słowiański C‑1 Pl. Serkowskiego J‑4/5 Pl. Szczepański B‑2 Pl. Św. Ducha D‑2 Pl. Św. Marii Magdaleny C‑4 Pl. Wolnica D‑7 Pl. Wszytkich Świętych C‑4 Płaszowska L‑4 Pod Kopcem F‑3 Pod Kopcem, Al. K‑5

Podbrzezie J‑3 Podbrzezie D‑5/6 Podgórska E‑7 Podchorążych G‑1 Podskale I/J‑5 Podwale B‑2/3 Podzamcze B/C‑5 Pokoju, Al. K/L‑2/3 Półkole L‑3 Pomorska H‑1 Portowa K/L‑4 Poselska B/C‑4 Powiśle A/B‑5 Powroźnicza A‑6 Powstańców Śląskich, Al. J/K‑5 Powstańców Wielkopolskich, Al. K/L‑4/5 Powstania Warszaw. Al. K‑2/3 Prądnicka I‑1 Prandoty J/K‑1 Praska G/H‑4 Prusa H‑3 Przedwiośnie I‑4/5 Przemysłowa K‑4 Przybyszewskiego F‑1 Pułaskiego A‑6/7 Racławicka H‑1 Radziwiłłowska E‑2/3 Rajska A‑2 Rakowicka J/K‑1/2 Reformacka A/B‑2 Rękawka J/K‑4 Retoryka A‑4 Reymana G‑2 Reymonta G/H‑2 Rodackiego J/K‑5 Różana A‑6 Ruczaj F/G‑5 Rybaki I/J‑4 Rybna L‑4/5 Rynek Dębnicki A‑6 Rynek Główny C‑3 Rynek Kleparski C/D‑1 Rynek Podgórski J‑4 Rzeszowska E‑6 Rzeźnicza K‑3 Sądowa K‑2 Salezjańska G/H‑5 Salwatorska H‑3 Sandomierska A/B‑6 Sarego C/D‑4/5 Saska L‑4/5 Senacka C‑4 Senatorska H‑3 Siedleckiego E‑4/5 Siemieńskiego G/H‑1 Siemiradzkiego A‑1 Sienkiewicza H‑1 Sienna C‑3/4 Skałeczna C/D‑7 Skalica F‑5 Skarbińskiego G‑1 Skawińska C/D‑7 Skłodowskiej-Curie D/E‑3 Skwerowa A‑7 Sławkowska C‑2/3 Słomiana H‑4/5 Słoneckiego K‑1 Słonecznikowa F‑3 Słowackiego, Al. H/I‑1 Smocza B‑6 Smoleńsk A/B‑4 Smolki I/J‑5 Sobieskiego I‑2 Sobieskiego Jana III A/B‑1 Sołtyka E‑3/4 Spasowskiego A/B‑1 Spiżowa F‑1/2 Starowiślna D/E‑4/6 Staszica I‑1 Stawarza J‑5 Stefana Batorego A/B‑1 Stoczniowców L‑4 Stolarska C‑3/4 Stradomska C/D‑5/6 Straszewskiego I‑3 Strzelców K‑1 Strzelecka E‑2 Studencka A/B‑3 Sukiennicza C‑6 Supniewskiego K‑1/2 Swoszowicka J‑5 Symfoniczna H‑2 Syrokomli H‑3

Szablowskiego F‑1 Szafera K‑2/3 Szczepańska B/C‑2/3 Szenwalda L‑1/2 Szeroka E‑6 Szewska B‑2/3 Szklarska L‑4 Szlachtowskiego G‑1 Szlak I/J‑1 Szpitalna C/D‑2/3 Szwedzka H‑4 Szymanowskiego H‑2 Śląska I‑1 Śliska I‑5 Ślusarska K‑4 Śniadeckiego J‑3/4 Św. Agnieszki C‑6 Św. Anny B‑3 Św. Bronisławy G‑3 Św. Filipa C/D‑1 Św. Gertrudy C/D‑4/5 Św. Idziego C‑5 Św. Jacka H‑5 Św. Jana C‑2/3 Św. Katarzyny D‑6/7 Św. Krzyża D‑3 Św. Łazarza J‑3 Św. Marka C/D‑2/3 Św. Sebastiana C/E‑5 Św. Stanisława C‑7 Św. Teresy I‑1 Św. Tomasza B/D‑2/3 Św. Wawrzyńca D/E‑6/7 Świętokrzyska I‑1 Tenczyńska B‑4 Tkacka H‑2 Topolowa J‑2 Toruńska G‑2 Traugutta K‑4 Trynitarska D/E‑7 Twardowskiego H‑5 Tyniecka F/H‑4/5 Urzędnicza H‑1/2 Wadowicka I‑5 Wałowa K‑4 Wandy K‑3 Warmijska G‑1 Warszauera D/E‑6 Warszawska D‑1 Wasilewskiego A‑7 Wąska E‑6 Waszyngtona G‑3 Węglowa D‑7 Wenecja A‑3 Westerplatte D‑2/3 Widok L‑3 Wielopole J‑3 Wierzbowa I‑4 Wietora I‑4 Wioślarska G‑4 Wiślna B‑3 Władysława Łokietka I‑1 Włościańska F‑1 Wodna L‑5 Wodociągowa F‑4 Wójtowska H‑1 Wolnica, Pl. J‑4 Worcella D‑2 Wróblewskiego I‑1/2 Wrocławska H/I‑1 Wrzesińska E‑4 Wyczółkowskiego G/H‑3 Wygoda A‑4 Wyspiańskiego H‑1 Zacisze D‑1/2 Zakątek H‑1 Zamenhofa D/E‑2 Zamkowa A‑6 Zarzecze F‑1 Zatorska I‑4/5 Zaułek K‑4 Zegadłowicza A‑4 Zielińskiego, gen. G/H‑4 Zwierzyniecka A/B‑4/5 ZwycięstwaL‑2/3 Zyblikiewicza D/E‑3/4 Zygmunta Augusta J‑2 Żelazna J‑1 Żółkiewskiego K‑3

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Index 19th Century Polish Art Gallery 80 Adam Mickiewicz Monument 78 Alchemia68 Alchemia od Kuchni 33 Amadeus129 Amarone38 Ambasada Śledzia 42 Amber Boutique Hotels 129 andel's by Vienna House Cracow 129 Andrzej Mleczko Gallery 121 Antique Apartments 133 Antycafe61 Apartment Cracow 133 Archaeology Museum 80 Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal Karol Wojtyła 81 Ariel44 ARS Cinema 118 Ascot Hotel 131 Atelier68 Auschwitz I 112 Auschwitz II - Birkenau 112 Bagelmama58 BARaWINO62 Barbican73 Bar Kazimierz 48 Baroque61 B&B La Fontaine 133 Beer Gallery - Luxury 61 Bianca40 Bierhalle33 Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace 81 Blazko120 Błonia Ice Rink 116 Bonarka City Center 125 BonJour CaVa 56 Boscaiola40 Bottiglieria 1881 62 Browar Lubicz 69 Bungee Jumping 117 Bunkier Cafe 34, 62 Cafe Młynek 54 Campanile131 Carriage Rides 75 Cathedral Museum 92 Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 119 Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 56 Chimera Salad Bar 36 Chimney Cake Bakery 56 Church of Saints Peter & Paul 77 Cinema City Galeria Kazimierz 118 Classic131 Cloth Hall 80, 123 Collegium Maius 83 Copernicus34, 128 Corpus Christi Church 96 Cracow City Tours 75 Cracow Tours 74 Crazy Guides 109 Cricoteka101 Crown Treasury & Armoury 91 Cupcake Corner Bakery 56 Czerwone Korale 48, 58 Dajwór 21 Food Truck Park 40 Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu 44 Dekor Art 123 Delikatesy 13 124 DiscoverCracow.eu74, 75 Dobra Kasza Nasza 48 Dym62 Ecotravel118

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Eden131 Ed Red 48 El Toro Restaurante 52 Enoteka Pergamin 34 Eros Bendato 78 Eszeweria68 Ethnographic Museum 97 Europeum Centre for European Culture81 FACTORY Outlet 125 Fiorentina Ristorante Pizzeria 40 Floatarium118 Floryan131 Food Truck Square 40 Fort Benedict 103 Forum Designu 121 Forum Przestrzenie 58, 62 Francuski129 Frantic66 Free Walking Tour 74 Galaxy129 Galeria Kazimierz 125 Galeria Krakowska 125 Galeria LueLue 122 Galeria Ora 121 Galeria Plakatu 122 Galicia Jewish Museum 97 Ghetto Wall Fragment 105 Glonojad54 Good Bye Lenin Pub & Garden133 Gorące Pączki 44 Grand128 Grande Grill 29 Greg & Tom Beer House 133 Gródek128 Grunwald Monument 79 Hamsa45 Hard Rock Cafe 29, 63 Hevre68 High Synagogue 97 Hilton Garden Inn Kraków 129 Hipolit House 82 History Museum 82 Holiday Inn Krakow City Center128 Home Army Museum 82 Hotel David 131 Hotel Kanonicza 22 129 Hotel Kazimierz 131 Hotel Kazimierz II 131 Hotel Kossak 129 Hotel Rubinstein 130 Hotel Senacki 130 Hotel Stary 128 Hotel Unicus 130 House Of Beer 63 Hurry Curry 30 Hutten-Czapski Museum 83 Ibis Budget Kraków Stare Miasto 132 Ibis Kraków Centrum 131 Ibis Kraków Stare Miasto 131 IDEA FIX Concept Store 122 IMAX Kraków 118 Indalo Rooms 132 India Masala 32 Indus Tandoor 33 Industrial34 InfoKraków75 InfoKraków Kazimierz 95 InVito Pizza & Pasta 40 Irish Pub Pod Papugami 63 Isaac Synagogue 97

Jama Michalika 57 Jan Matejko House 83 Jan Matejko Monument 79 Jarema49 Jewish Community 95 Jewish Community Centre 95 Jordan Tourist Information & Accommodation Centre 75 Józef Czapski Pavilion 84 Józef Mehoffer House 84 Judah Square Food Truck Park 40 Judaica Foundation 95 Kacper Ryx 123 Karakter35 Karma Coffee Roasters 57 Karmel131 Kiełbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski 54 Kino Pod Baranami 118 Klezmer Hois 44 Klub 89 66 Kogel Mogel 49 Kolanko N°6 57 Kopernik124 Kościuszko Mound 86 Krakow City Apartments 133 Krakow For You Apartments 133 Krakow Pinball Museum 117 Krakowski Kredens 124 Kraków Water Park 117 Krakuska Sztuka Ludowa 123 Krowarzywa Vegan Burger 54 Kupa Synagogue 98 La Campana Trattoria 42 Lady With An Ermine 92 La Fontaine 31 La Grande Mamma 42 L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant 49, 62 Le Scandale 68 Les Couleurs 69 Liban Quarry 103 Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics Centre 101

Little Havana Party Hostel 133 Lost Souls Alley - Deadly Walk 117 Lost Wawel 91 Main Market Square 72 Maltański131 Mamma Mia 42 Manggha85 Manzana44 Marchewka z Groszkiem 49 Mash Room 65 Massolit Books & Café 123 Matejko131 Meat & Go 36 Mercure Kraków Old Town 130 Mercy Brown 63 METQA Perception Box 122 Metropolitan Boutique Hotel 130 Międzymiastowa35 Milkbar Tomasza 58 Miód Malina 50 Mleczarnia69 Mo-ja Cafe 57 Momotown133 Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club 29 Morskie Oko 50 Multi Qlti Tap Bar 64 Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK)101 Museum of Municipal Engineering 97 Museum of Poland under the Communist Regime 108 Museum of the Duke’s Brewery in Tychy88 National Museum, Main Building 85 New Jewish Cemetery 98 Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa 129 NOLIO42 Novotel Kraków Centrum 130 Nowa Huta Museum 108 Noworolski58 Old Synagogue 98

NOWA HUTA STREET REGISTER Andersa, al., gen. M/N‑1/3 Artystów N‑3 Bardosa T‑4 Batalionu Parasol M‑1 Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen. M‑2/3 Bulwarowa P/R‑1/4 Centralny, pl. N/O‑3 Cerchów P‑4 Daniłowskiego R‑4 Gajocha O‑3/4 Gardy-Godlewskiego, płk. O‑2/3 Jana Pawła II, al. M/R‑3/4 Klasztorna R‑5 Kleinera T‑1 Kocmyrzowska M/N‑1 Lehra-Spławińskiego T‑1 Ludźmierska N‑1/2 Łempickiego S‑1 Mierzwy O/R‑3/4 Mościckiego O/P‑1

Obrońców Krzyża N‑1 Orkana P/R‑3 Padniewskiego, bp. M‑4 Przyjaźni, al. N/O‑2/3 Ptaszyckiego R/T‑4/5 Róż, al. O‑1/2 Rydza-Śmigłego, marsz. M/P‑1/2 Sieroszewskiego P/R‑5 Solidarności, al. O/T‑1/3 Stalowa O‑1 Struga P‑2 Tomickiego, bp. M‑3/4 Ujastek T‑1 Ujastek Mogilski T‑2/4 Wańkowicza S‑1 Wąwozowa S‑1 Wiśniowy Sad M‑2 Wojciechowskiego P‑1 Zachemskiego P‑4/5 Zuchów P‑3/4 Żeromskiego O/P‑1/2

February - March 2017

141


Index FEATURES INDEX ‘Kolejka’ Board Game 122 Barbican 73 Bernatek Footbridge 99 Błonia Meadow 130 Breakfast 58 Breweries 69 Carriage Rides 75 Cinemas 118 Currency Exchange 126 Decoding the Menu 32 Dishing Up History 57 Facts & Figures 18 Food Trucks 40 Have Your Say 49 Hot Beer? 61 Jagiellonian University 83 Kościuszko Mound 86 Kraków Historical Timeline 21 Kraków in 24hrs 71 Kraków IYP Online 74 Kraków National Museum 87 Kraków Street Art 84 Kraków ZOO 117 Krakus Mound 102 Lady With an Ermine 92 Language Smarts 19 Late Night Eats 54 Liban Quarry 103 Live Music & Jazz 66 Main Market Square 72 Market Values 18 Markets 124 Memories of Lenin 107 Milk Bars 48 Pączki 44 Plac Centralny 109 Plac Nowy 98 Plac Wolnica 96 Polish Aviation Museum 82 Polish Food 46 Polish Snacks & Shots 42 Polish Vodka 64 Quick Eats 36 Słowacki Theatre 73 The Cloth Hall 80 The Hejnał 76 The Lord's Ark 108 The Obwarzanek 34 The Planty 82 The Wawel Dragon 93 The Zbruch Idol 78 Tipping Tribulations 32 Tourist Card 75 Traces of the Ghetto 105 Tyskie Brewery 88 Tytano 65 Useful Transport Apps 14 What to Buy in Poland 120 Wieliczka 6 Wine Bars 62 142 Kraków In Your Pocket

Oriental Art 91 Oświęcim Jewish Museum & Synagogue111 Pan i Pani Smith 58 Paradise Club 67 Park Inn by Radisson Krakow 130 Pasaż 13 125 Pauza64 Pharmacy Museum 86 Pharmacy Under the Eagle 101 Piec'Art66 Pierwszy Lokal... 64 Pijalnia Czekolady Wedla 58 Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 42 Pimiento45 Pinakoteka35 Pink Panther's Hostel 133 Pino36 Piwnica Pod Baranami 64 Pizzeria Vicenti 36 Plac Bohaterów Getta 103 Plac Nowy 124 Plac Nowy 1 36, 116 Plac Targowy Unitarg 124 Pod Aniołami 50 Pod Baranem 50 Pod Norenami 54 Pod Nosem 51 Pod Różą 51, 130 Pod Temidą 48 Pod Wawelem 51, 131 Polakowski51 Polish Aviation Museum 82 Pollera132 Polonia Wax Museum 86 Polski Pod Białym Orłem 130 Prozak 2.0 66 Przypiecek54 PURO Hotel Kraków 130 Qubus Hotel Kraków 130 Radisson Blu 129 Red Brick 133 Red Kurka 133 Regionalne Alkohole 124 Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery99 Restauracja Sukiennice 52 Rock Shop 123 Royal132 Royal Crypts 93 Royal Private Apartments 91 Ruczaj132 Rynek Underground 87 Rzeźnia - Ribs on Fire 30 Saltworks Castle & Museum 10 Sąsiedzi52 Scandale Royal 36, 54, 58 Schindler's Factory 102 Secret Garden Hostel 133 SeeKrakow75 Sheraton Grand Krakow 129 Shisha Club by Bollywood 65 Sigismund Bell 93 Singer69 Sissi Organic Bistro 38 Skałka & the Pauline Monastery 96 Słodki Wierzynek 58 Słowacki Theatre 73 Smaki Gruzji 32 Smakołyki52 Społem Deluxe 66 St. Adalbert’s Church 77 Stadnina Koni Huculskich 118

Stained Glass Museum 88 St. Andrew’s Church 77 Stara Zajezdnia 69 Starmach Gallery 105 Stary Kleparz 124 Stary Port 65 State Rooms 91 St. Clement's Church 10 St. Francis' Basilica 77 St. Joseph's Church 100 St. Mary’s Basilica 76 S-Tours74 Streat Slow Food 40 Szambelan124 Szara38 Szara Gęś 52 Szara Kazimierz 38 Szołayski House 88 Szpitalna 1 67 Tao Teppanyaki & More 30 Tao Therapy 119 T.E.A. Time 69 Teatro Cubano 67 Temple Synagogue 99 Thai Smile Massage 119 The Lord's Ark 108 The Piano Rouge 66 The Stage 116 Tourist Information 10 Tournet132 Tradycyja38 Trzy Kafki Guest Rooms 132 Trzy Rybki 38 Ulica Pomorska 89 Underground Health Resort 10 Upper Town Square 10 Ursa Maior Concept Store & Pub69 Vanilla Sky 38 Vanilla Spa 119 Vegan Bistro Nova Krova 55 Veganic55 Vienna House Easy Chopin Cracow 132 Vis a Vis 65 Visiting Auschwitz 110 Viva la PINTA 65 Wanda's Mound 109 Wawel132 Wawel Castle 90 Wentzl130 Wesele52 Weźże Krafta 65 White Camel 45 Wieliczka Promotion & Sales Office 10 Wieliczka Salt Mine - Miner's Route 8 Wieliczka Salt Mine - Tourist Route 7 Wielopole132 WieloPole 3 55 Wierzynek52 World of Amber 121 WOW KRAKOW! 74 Wyspiański132 ZaKładka - Food & Wine 31 Zazie Bistro 32 Zdzisław Beksiński Gallery 108 Zenit38 Zen Restaurant & Sushi Bar 31 Zet Pe Te 66

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