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Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Berlin August – September 2018

Running Berlin

The world’s fastest marathon

Circus of Stars

Wintergaten’s amazing new show inyourpocket.com N°94 - €1.75


The evening is hosted by: Thomas Otto René Bazinet Massimo Rocchi Sophie Berner Massimo Rocchi Thomas Otto

22.08. – 11.11. 14.11. – 25.11. 28.11. – 09.12. 12.12. – 13.01. 16.01. – 20.01. 23.01. – 24.02.

Director: Rodrigue Funke

www.wintergarten-berlin.de

Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin


Contents

Arriving & Transport

5

Getting around by S&U

Basics

6

Essential travel tips

Berlin’s Districts

7

Sports in Berlin 8 All about Berlin’s top teams & Golf in Berlin

Culture & Events 11

Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema

Berlin Mitte

19

The delights of the city centre

Berlin Charlottenburg & The West

© Anibaltrejo | Dreamstime.com

Berlin Friedrichshain

40

Worker’s paradise, student’s playground 33

Genteel western Berlin

Berlin Prenzlauer Berg

42

The gentrified north

SYMBOL KEY

Berlin Kreuzberg

46

Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters

Neukölln

54

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

E Live music

N No credit cards

M Nearest S/U-Bahn station

City Tours

B Outside seating

G Non-smoking room

Guided walks, bike rides and drives

S Take away

R Internet

River tours

59

Directory & Street register

60

W Wi-Fi Additional symbols for hotels P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

L Guarded parking

H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre

K Restaurant

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Dinner price guide The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level based on a main course with a glass of wine. €€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person. €€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person. €€ Middling; from €10-20 per person. € Cheap; less than €10 per person. facebook.com/InYourPocket

Find out why it’s being called Kreuzkölln 58

Maps & Index 61-63 64-65 66

City map Public transport map Index

BERLIN BOXES Scattered throughout the guide you’ll find boxes with more information about these topics: Berlin in Books Erasmus Student Network Food with a View Museum Insel

58 6 21 28

August – September 2018

3


Foreword Get your running shoes on. The Berlin Marathon is one of the most famous in Europe and certainly one of the most iconic, finishing as it does with runners crossing the line underneath the Brandenburg Gate. Dating back to 1974, Berlin is also one of the world’s oldest regular marathons, and attracts both world class professional and amateur athletes from all over the world. For the past seven years it has also been the fastest: the world leading men’s time for the year has been set on the German capital’s streets. This year taking place on September 16, the Berlin Marathon is just one of many great events taking place in the city over the next couple of months. There is track and field athletics too, at the Olympic Stadium from August 6-12 in the form of the European Athletics Championships, as well as the regular one-day meet, ISTAF, which takes place on September 2: also at the Olympiastadion. When it comes to cultural events, Berlin was the scene of the first ever Long Night of the Museums - now a worldwide phenomenon - and it continues to get bigger and better. This year you can spend a night at the museums on August 25th. There is a similar event a couple of weeks before at Potsdam, where the town’s famous old schloss is put to great use as the setting for two nights of lights, fireworks, music, food and drink: Potsdam Palace Nights. Tickets for the event are limited, so get in quick. All in all, this is a great time of year to be in Berlin, with so much going on, so much to see and do and so many amazing people to meet. We have tried, as always, to bring you the best of he city on the pages of this guide: if there is something you feel we should include (a great little bar, live music venue or bonny bistro) do drop us a line so we can check it out ahead of our next issue. Enjoy Berlin.

Publisher In Your Pocket GmbH Axel-Springer-Straße 39 10969 Berlin Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81 Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50 germany@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1611-9037 Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin. Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly The public transport map is used under license no. BVG-021.18 Editorial Editor Jeroen van Marle Research Cecilia Engvall; Layout Tomáš Haman Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG) Maps Kartographie Eichner Cover © TomasSereda, iStock Sales & Circulation General Manager Stephan Krämer Production Manager Philippe Krüger Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt Advertising Managers CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de) Copyright notice & Editor’s note Text, photos and maps (unless otherwise stated) copyright In Your Pocket GmbH. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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4 Berlin In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Transport Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great empty vastness of northeast Germany, it’s very well connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn and air. Once in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had such good public transport.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Berlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn, underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just remember the number or colour and end station of the line you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like stations like a local. Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights, with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights. Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train services. Vending machines have instructions in English and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport. With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,80, ABC €3,40) you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier-FahrtenKarte, €9). Buy a €1,70 Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning; €7,00) or the seven-day pass (€30,00). Groups of up to five people are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €19,90). The multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (€19,9045,00) is valid for transport and some attractions. Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll be fined €60 on the spot. BVG The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www.bvg.de/en/Service.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, info@bvg.de, www.bvg.de/en.

TAXIS Berlin’s friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre is €3,40; then up to 7km it’s €1,79/km, thereafter €1,28/km. Waiting costs €25/ hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction facebook.com/InYourPocket

you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke tarriff; €4 for 2km. By the way, Funk means radio. CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de. FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, www.taxifunkberlin.de. TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de. WBT FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, www.funk-taxi-berlin.de. WÜRFEL-FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 01 01, www.wuerfelfunk.de.

CYCLING As long as it’s dry, getting around Berlin is really best done by bicycle. It’s a flat city, there are plenty of cycle paths and wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you fined, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town may take a while, though for €1,60 you can take your bike on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental places, most charging €10-12 per day. The urban bike trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-traffic and cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.

CITY CARDS Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning to travel around town a lot and see more than one museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students and youths may get better reductions at museums using their student ID cards. BERLIN WELCOMECARD The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours, etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes Potsdam and Schönefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48 hours (AB €19,90, ABC €22,90), 72 hours (€28,90/30,90), and 4 (€33,50/35,90), 5 (€36,90/41,50) or 6 days (€42,50/46,50). There’s also a 72hour variety (€109) that includes free admission to 30 Berlin attractions and a  1 day hop-on hop-off bus tour.  Cards are sold online and from BVG ticket machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels and kiosks. The similar Berlin CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.com) is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club discounts geared towards younger travellers; a 48-hour ticket costs €16,90 for AB, €17,90 for ABC, and there are also 72 hours, 4, 5, and 6-day tickets.Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de/en. MUSEUM PASS BERLIN Over 30 museums, including the permanent collections of the Staatliche Museen (state museums) and the Museum Island (UNESCO World Heritage Site), can be visited with the Berlin Museum Pass (€29/14,50, valid three days). It’s for sale at the museums, tourism offices and online. Qwww.visitberlin.de/en/museum-pass-berlin. August – September 2018

5


Basics BASIC DATA Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725 Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km. The Spree is 403km. Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m Highest natural point of Berlin: Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m Berlin’s territory: 900 square kilometers

CRIME & SAFETY Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty crimes are low compared to other Western European capitals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walking in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom occur in Berlin’s touristed central areas.

ELECTRICITY Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and many hotels will have them at the front desk too.

ERASMUS STUDENT NETWORK How do international students get to meet locals and the city during an academic exchange? The best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network (ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student associations in Europe. It was developed to help internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36 countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam. 6 Berlin In Your Pocket

MONEY Germany uses the euro (€). Banknotes come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, whose design depends on in which country they were minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents and €1 and €2. Credit and debit card payment is possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife venues, though always have cash on you for small payments just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process. Exchange offices can be found at the major train stations.

VISAS AND ENTRY FORMALITIES EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though registration at a Bürgeramt office is officially required for stays more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90 days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply for a German visa in advance. Note that there’s no passport control between Germany and the other 14 European ‘Schengen’ countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.

CLIMATE 30

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Rainfall (mm)

Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately Berlin’s local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weiße, is only really palatable ‘mit Schuss’, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (‘kloob mah-tea’) ice tea, made with extract of the South American maté plant, caffeine and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to just below the top label and top it up with wodka).

Temperature °C

DRINKS & ALCOHOL

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Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov Dec

-5

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berlin.inyourpocket.com


Berlin’s Districts Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, you’re still left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners often find everything they need. Public transportation is far-reaching and effective though, and you’ll grow to love it as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights: Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg.

MITTE (MI) Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel, whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. It’s on these streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery to sidewalk café, pointing out directions to tourists seeking out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass deportations of the Nazi era.

CHARLOTTENBURG (CB) If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets, crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin. Much of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the 1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufürstendamm, Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting becomes more genteel where you can’t see the buildings for the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I.

TIERGARTEN (TG) Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare park that began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around the Siegessäule (Victory Column). Slicing though the park’s length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl.

KREUZBERG (KB) Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off facebook.com/InYourPocket

© dreamstime.com

room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987 social and economic frustration exploded into violence and vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May 1st is essentially Kreuzberg’s way of reliving its 15 minutes of fame. The rest of the days are marked by backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting on the Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular drags Oranienstr. and Bergmannstr. Two major museums, the House at Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum, are planted in the staid parts of the district.

PRENZLAUER BERG (PB) On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old working-class district in the former East Berlin that came through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and along Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.). Prenzlauer Berg’s few attractions include the Vitra Design museum and a 19th-century brewery complex that is now the Kulturbrauerei culture centre. A good time to visit is Saturday when the eco-market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or Sunday when everyone sits outside being cool and eating breakfast all day.

FURTHER AFIELD Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife scene are Schöneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of Zehlendorf (ZD). August – September 2018

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Sports in Berlin

Alte Försterei © inyourpocket.de

Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports – the city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing five exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union, the Eisbären, Alba, Füchse and the BR Volleys. Home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlin’s stadiums; every season over two million tickets are sold. In addition, Berlin’s streets regularly host huge sports events such as the public viewing festivals during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts countless amateur sports matches. Despite being rivals, Berlin’s six professional sports collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional sports in Berlin, promoting Berlin’s image as an international sports event destination. The home matches of Berlin’s pro teams are easy to visit: you don’t need to understand German to be able to follow a match and unlike in other European countries, sports matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning it’s no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium for an afternoon or evening of fun. Finding out about which matches are playing where can be problematic for visitors however, as websites are not all available in English, and some make it difficult to find the upcoming playing dates. In the club details here we have listed all home matches for the following months, though always keep an eye on the club websites for changes or additional matches. Berlin’s official English-language sports website www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about all the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site www.eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches. 8 Berlin In Your Pocket

HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)

Berlin’s main football team plays home matches at the impressive Olympiastadion, Germany’s second largest stadium, built for the 1936 Olympic Games and renovated for the 2006 World Cup. Founded back in 1892 the team is known as the Alte Dame, the old lady. Its most successful years were between 1926 and 1931, although Hertha did make the semi-finals of the UEFA Cup in 1979. Shortly after however, dark times hit the club, who spent much of the 1980s and early 1990s in the second division. Back in the Bundesliga this time since 2012 they now look set to stay. 2017-18 was a solid season, ending in a 10th place finish. They will be looking a top six finish at the very least this season.QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion), Charlottenburg, MS Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805 18 92 00, www. herthabsc.de/en/. Tickets €15-89. 25.08 15:30 » Hertha BSC v. 1. FC Nuremberg 22.09 15:30 » v. Borussia Mönchengladbach 28.09 20:30 » v. Bayern Munich berlin.inyourpocket.com


Sports in Berlin EISBÄREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY) Originating in 1953 in East Germany’s Dynamo sports club, the ‘polar bears’ are Berlin’s popular professional ice hockey team. They won the national league 7 times, have also bagged the European Trophy. Their home matches at the Mercedes-Benz-Arena are true familyfests, with a festive, good-humoured atmosphere. The Eisbären finished the 2017-18 regular season second in the table, qualifying once more for the play-offs in which they missed out on the title in dramatic fashion: losing in seven games to Red Bull Munich. Will be looking to go one better this season.QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 97 18 40 40, www. eisbaeren.de. Tickets €14-45. 14.09 19:30 » v. EHC Red Bull München 21.09 19:30 » v. Fischtown Pinguins (Bremerhaven) 28.09 19:30 » v. Iserlohn Roosters

FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)

Nicknamed Eisern Union (Iron Union), FC Union is traditionally the working man’s Berlin team, originating in East Berlin in 1966 and often a counterweight to the GDR’s state-influenced (and very much unloved) Dynamo club. Union is still fiercely independent, based in a charming stadium, An der Alten Försterei. The club has resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem sung by punk legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium partly owned by passionate fans. They just missed out on promotion from the 2. Bundesliga in 2017 and had high hopes for 2018. Alas despite starting the season well their form slipped and from possible promotion contenders they ended up only narrowly escaping relegation. With a new coach, Urs Fischer, they will be hoping for a better 2018-19.QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten Försterei), Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656 68 80, www.fc-unionberlin.de. Tickets €12-43. 05.08 15:30 » FC Union v. FC Erzgebirge Aue 26.08 13:30 » FC Union v. St. Pauli 14.09 18:30 » FC Union v. MSV Duisburg 25.09 18:30 » FC Union v. Holstein Kiel facebook.com/InYourPocket

ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL) Also known as the Albatrosse, Berlin’s basketball club is Germany’s most successful, and has the largest fanbase; home matches easily attract 10,000 spectators. Since going pro in 1991, Alba has won the German League eight times and the German Cup seven times. They have had another good season in 2017-18, reaching the play-off finals, and will be hoping to go one better this season. QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets €8-65.

BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL) Berlin’s professional volleyball team originates in the western district of Charlottenburg, but plays home matches at the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR Volleys have been particularly successful since the late 1990s. After an up and down start to the 2017-18 season they were unstoppable from November onwards, losing only one league game. They made the Bundesliga play-offs, and stormed to their sixth title in seven years, and their third in a row. This year they remain favourites for the title and will be looking to make it four in a row.QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www. berlin-recycling-volleys.de. Tickets €13-16.

FÜCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL) The Foxes, Berlin’s handball team, is part of an old West Berlin sports club, and now plays home matches in Prenzlauer Berg’s Max-Schmelling-Halle. The Füchse had a great season last year, finishing third in the Bundesliga behind Rhein  Neckar  Lowen and champions Flensburg Handewitt.QG‑1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 30 44 30, www. fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets €12-50. 18.08 15:00 » DHB-CUP v. Oranienburger HC 30.08 19:00 » v. TSV GWD Minden 04.09 19:00 » v. SG Flensburg-Handewitt 13.09 00:00 » v. TSV Hannover-Burgdorf 29.09 00:00 » v. SC Magdeburg August – September 2018

9


Golf in Berlin With endless forests, lakes and pretty countryside in all directions, Berlin and the surrounding state of Brandenburg offer plenty of opportunities to get out of the city and play some golf in a calm green setting. The “gentleman’s game” has evolved a lot since the early days, and now is popular with people from all walks of life. The fall of the Berlin Wall 25 years ago helped open up many new locations to play the sport outside of the city. Here we list the main courses and shops in and around Berlin.

GOLF COURSES The following golf courses all have driving ranges and practice facilities; many of them offer Early Bird and Twilight rates too. The reviews list the type of courses, the driving time from central Berlin, and the greenfee for weekdays/ weekends respectively, and mention when you can book online. BERLINER GOLF- UND COUNTRY CLUB MOTZENER SEE 18 & 9-holes, 40mins, €69/85.QAm Golfplatz 5, Mittenwalde, tel. +49 33 76 95 01 30, www. golfclubmotzen.de. GOLF & SPA RESORT SCHLOSS WILKENDORF 2x18-holes, 6-hole practise, 55mins, €60/80, online booking.QAm Weiher 1, Altlandsberg, tel. +49 3341 33 09 60, www.golfpark-schloss-wilkendorf.com/englishvisitors/. GOLFCLUB KALLIN 18 & 9-holes, 50mins, €50/70, online bookingQAm Kallin 1, Nauen OT Börnicke, tel. +49 332 30 89 40, www.golfkallin.de. GOLF CLUB PANKOW BERLIN 18 & 9-holes and 6 practice holes, 22mins, €50/64. QBlankenburger Pflasterweg 40, tel. +49 30 50 01 94 90, www.golf-pankow.de. GOLFCLUB PRENDEN 18 & 9-holes, 50mins, €45/55.QWaldweg 3, Wandlitz, tel. +49 333 96 77 90, www.golfplatz-prenden.de.

GOLF IN WALL

All golfers are welcome to enjoy the wide fairways at Wall, a calm village north of Berlin. The 18-hole course is suitable for players of all levels, and beginners can perfect their swing on the 9-hole practise course. Situated in the pretty Brandenburger Rhinluchs area and near to a nature reserve, there’s even chance of spotting rare birds as you play. 55mins from Berlin Mitte; €34, weekends €49.QAm Königsgraben 1, Wall, tel. +49 33 92 57 11 35, www.golfinwall.de.

GOLF SHOPS GOLF BERLIN MITTE On over 1000m² you will find in our shop at the S-Bahn station Greifswalder Str., A large selection of golf equipment for women, men and juniors, our racket workshop, the Golf Studio Berlin with the latest simulators for indoor games and professional training, as well as racket fittings and your private golf event.QGreifswalder Straße 87, tel. +49 30 28 04 70 70, www.golf-berlin-mitte.de. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. HOHMANN GOLF Wide range of golfing equipment and sportswear. QFranklinstr. 12a-13, tel. +49 30 39 88 72 20, www. hohmann-golf.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. BERLINER GOLF CLUB GATOW

GOLFCLUB STOLPERHEIDE 2x18 holes, 6 practice holes, 30mins, €50/90, online booking.QAm Golfplatz 1, Hohen Neuendorf, tel. +49 3303 54 92 14, www.golfclub-stolperheide.de. GOLF- UND LAND-CLUB BERLIN-WANNSEE 18 & 9-holes, 30mins, €135; weekends only with a member.QGolfweg 22, tel. +49 30 806 70 60, www. wannsee.de. SPORTING CLUB BERLIN SCHARMÜTZELSEE 3x18-holes, 60mins, €45/80, online booking.QParkallee 3, Bad Saarow, tel. +49 3363 16 33 00, www.sportingclub-berlin.de. 10 Berlin In Your Pocket

One of the oldest clubs in Germany, the “British Golf Club Gatow” was founded in 1969, linked at the time to the Allied Forces, and independent after their retreat in 1994. The course was expanded from 9 to 18 holes in 2001 to make it viable for the future. 18 holes and 6 practise holes, 35mins, €60/80, online booking.QSparnecker Weg 100, tel. +49 30 365 00 06, www.golfclubgatow.de. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets and an annual cultural budget of over €900 million to fund it all.

GALLERIES

OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN West Berlin’s 2000-seat opera building with its excellent acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances. Originally opened in 1912 as the modern, ‘democratic’ counterpart to the royal opera house on Unter den Linden, it has a reputation for modern works and underrepresented composers. Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB‑3, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

©picknickfrunk

KOMISCHE OPER Starting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the building’s monumental neo-baroque main hall survived wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF‑3, Behrenstraße 55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets €9-150.

Berlin’s museum and gallery world is constantly in flux, and perhaps now more than ever. Several large museums are closed for lengthy renovations that will last until the end of the decade, and the contemporary art scene is on the move, with artists fleeing the rising rents in the Mitte district for atelier space in outlying districts and galleries regrouping in new cultural nodes like Potsdamer Strasse. On this page we highlight a few of Berlin’s many excellent galleries and exhibitions.

KONZERTHAUS BERLIN Together with the Deutscher and Französischer Dom churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacular architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821, it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays at the venue.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.de. Tickets €10-99.

BERLINISCHE GALERIE This museum for modern art, photography, architecture, and artist archives concentrates a century worth of creativity forged in Berlin between 1880 and 1980. Artists represent the Secession, Expressionist, Dada, New Objectivity movements, and those representing the divided city. Giants of German art include Heinrich Zille, Otto Dix, George Grosz, Hannah Höch and Wolf Vostell.QG‑4, Alte Jakobstraße 124128, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00, www.berlinischegalerie.de.

STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER The venue for Daniel Barenboim’s award-winning Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on Unter den Linden are completed.QC‑3, Bismarckstraße 110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets €14-220.

SHOWS ADMIRALSPALAST This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret, operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlin’s roaring 20s. Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private box so that he could watch his favourite operetta ‘The Merry Widow’, and Brecht tried out his new theatre here from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on plays, concerts and musicals.QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets €21-79. facebook.com/InYourPocket

C/O BERLIN Recently rehoused in the historical Amerika-Haus near Zoologischer Garten, the C/O gallery presents changing exhibitions of fantastic photography. The current exhibitions of protest photos by Gordon Parks and conflict photography by Broomberg & Chanarin are well worth seeing.QHardenbergstr. 22-24, tel. +49 30 284 44 16 62, www.co-berlin.org. SLOW PHOTOGRAPHY BERLIN Ukrainian artist Oleg Farynyuk photographs subjects using old techniques, especially the wetplate method which was invented in 1851 and was the first time photos could be shot with short exposure times. At the gallery and shop you can view the resulting high-quality photos, and have one made.QSlow Photography Berlin, Christinenstr. 15, tel. +49 152 17 55 00 74, www.slow-photography-berlin.com. August – September 2018

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Culture & Events TIPI AM KANZLERAMT Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for an evening in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten park. Before the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then it’s over to the artists featured that night to entertain the audience. QE‑3, Große Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00. Mon closed. Tickets €20-55. BLUE MAN GROUP The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as it has little spoken German, and now has been thoroughly revamped, with many new sketches and elements.QE‑4, Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Closed Mon, Shows Tue 20:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Fri, Sun 18:00. Tickets from €59,90 €€. FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST The amazing shows at the Friedrichstadt-Palast attract more than 700,000 visitors every year, making the Palast by

WINTERGARTEN

ASK THE CONCIERGE Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you about current events, book tickets, make restaurant reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels of their jackets. far the most popular theatre in Berlin. With more than 160 participants in every performance, including more than one hundred artists, it is also the largest troupe show in the world. The current show, The One: Grand Show features costumes by Jean Paul Gaultier. Book tickets on line using the password ‘pocket’ and you get a €20 reduction!QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 107, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 27, www.palast.berlin/en. Tickets from €27,80. WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉ One of Berlin’s famed variety theatres was revived here as a dinner theater. Seated around tables, you’ll enjoy a show with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more. Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are served during the break. New shows are put on several times per year.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun 18:00. Tickets €37,20-70,20.

THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or not, come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the little black box’s stage.QF‑5, Fidicinstraße 40, Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 691 12 11, tickets@ etberlin.de, www.etberlin.de. Tickets €14-18. Leosvel et Diosmani

© Mahramzadeh

22.08 - 24.02 » CIRCUS OF STARS

You will be amazed by some of the greatest and most renowned vaudeville variety artists of all time – astounding and breathtaking, yet bizarre at times, and insanely funny. Experience a unique show of premium entertainment packed with highlights every evening until February next year. Many of the artists - who come from all over the world - have appeared at the Wintergarten in various shows before, while some will be appearing for the first time. As usual, in addition to enjoying an evening of artistic excellence, guests will also be seduced by culinary delights. Whether a fancy snack or exquisite three-course menu, a good bottle of wine or a sparkling glass of champagne - the evening will be unforgettable. Note that Sunday shows start at 18:00.QE‑4, Wintergarten Variété, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33. Closed Mon, Tue. 12 Berlin In Your Pocket

KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUB Laughing matters at this comedy club, which has alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights every month: Kim Eustace on the first Tuesday, and the interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaie’s show “How to become a Berliner in one hour”.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 184, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets €5-16. Shows Tue-Sun. QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB “Quatsch” is the delicious German word for nonsense, and there’s plenty of it in the shows held in the Friedrichstadtpalast theatre basement. Most are in German, but look out for special guests and the regular Englishlanguage “Strictly Stand Up” nights. Drinks and snacks like nachos and hot dogs are available.QF‑3, Friedrichstr. 107, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00 09 69, www.quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets €25-35. Shows Thu-Sun. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events What’s On

PALAIS POPULAIRE

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 09.08 20:00 » YOUNG EURO CLASSIC: NATIONAL YOUTH ORCHESTRA OF ROMANIA

QF‑3, Konzerthaus Berlin, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, €33,50, www. konzerthaus.de/en.

08.09 19:00, 09.09 20:00 » SIR GEORGE BENJAMIN

The concert opens with with Pierre Boulez’s composition Cummings ist der Dichter, continues with György Ligeti’s Clocks and Clouds, and closes with George Benjamin’s orchestral work Palimpsests. QE‑4, Berliner Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 89 99, €21-66, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

08.09 18:00 » THE ENGLISH CHOIR BERLIN

Since Advent 2015, the choir has been singing Choral Evensong on at least one Saturday of each month. In fact, the Choir’s whole musical focus is on the repertoire commonly used in English cathedrals around the world. QG‑3, Berliner Dom, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, free, www. englishchoirberlin.com.

21.09 20:00, 22.09 19:00, 23.09 20:00 » BERLINER PHILHARMONIKER

Symphony No. 5 in B flat major from Anton Bruckner. QE‑4, Berliner Philharmonie, Herbert-von-KarajanStraße 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 89 99, €25-76, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

EXHIBITIONS 25.05 - 05.08 » PHILIPPE PARRENO

French artist Philippe Parreno sees the medium of exhibition as a living organism that can be set in motion by light, sounds and images. He controls his staged spaces with the help of algorithms that synchronise the behaviour of the objects contained in the room. As such, it is difficult to know what to expect. It seems certain that some old works will reappear. For example, a cuttlefish, an animal that turns up often in Parreno’s work will star in Anywhen, a film shot in 2016, which has recently been entirely re-edited. Many of these past works that may reappear were never really artworks to begin with. For example, the flower wallpaper previously seen as a background element in the set of Parreno’s film Marilyn (2012) moves to the foreground becoming an individual work covering a gallery wall. “Fireflies” will return too: hundreds of drawings of lightning bugs flash on a large LED screen and then fade away, their lifespan governed by complex algorithms. Certainly, this coming and going facebook.com/InYourPocket

PalaisPopulaire

© Mathias Schormann

On September 27 Deutsche Bank is opening a groundbreaking international forum for art, culture, and sports in the heart of Berlin: the PalaisPopulaire. Rooms of the historic Prinzessinnenpalais at Unter den Linden 5 have been redesigned by the renowned architects Kuehn & Malvezzi, and with clear forms and state-ofthe-art technology transformed into a dynamic stage for contemporary culture. The PalaisPopulaire will be a vibrant, cosmopolitan space that connects and enthralls lovers of contemporary art and culture as well as sports enthusiasts. It will bring exhibitions from the Deutsche Bank Collection and important partner institutions to Berlin, as well as concerts, readings, sports workshops, and digital experiences. The PalaisPopulaire will be directed by Svenja von Reichenbach, who has been in charge of Deutsche Bank’s Berlin exhibition activities since 1997, and directed the Deutsche Bank KunstHalle from 2013 until recently. In addition to networking with the cultural scene of the German capital, Reichenbach’s main aim is to offer a program with global appeal that attract guests from all over the world. Encompassing more than 750 square meters, the PalaisPopulaire expands the bank’s art exhibition space threefold. Today, Deutsche Bank boasts one of the world’s most important collections of contemporary art on paper and photography. With around 300 highlights and new discoveries, many of which have never been seen by the public thus far, the PalaisPopulaire’s opening exhibitions, The World On Paper, shows the Deutsche Bank Collection from a new perspective. The exhibition documents the variety, history, and internationality of this extraordinary collection. The show is embedded in an extensive supporting program comprising offers from all three areas – art, culture, and sports. August – September 2018

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Culture & Events GURLITT: STATUS REPORT

Full contents online: berlin.inyourpocket.com of old characters has something to do with birth, death and rebirth. Indeed, two gigantic inflated cartoon baby heads, one of Parreno’s oldest works dating to 1993, will take on a new life. When (or if ) these old works meet, only time will tell how they will get along. Will they resonate? What new realities might emerge?QF‑4, MartinGropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, €10/7, www.berlinerfestspiele.de. Closed Tue.

FESTIVALS 08.08 - 09.08 » LOLLAPALOOZA FESTIVAL

Auguste Rodin 

© Kunst- und Ausstellungshalle der Bundesrepublik Deutschland GmbH

14.09 - 07.01 » GURLITT: STATUS REPORT

News of the discovery of the so-called ‘Gurlitt cache’ caused an international sensation in November 2013. The 1500 works of art, which the reclusive Cornelius Gurlitt (1932–2014), son of the art dealer Hildebrand Gurlitt (1895–1956), had inherited from his father raised suspicions: had they been looted by the Nazis before and during the Second World War? To investigate these suspicions, the German government provided the funding necessary to conduct further research, while Cornelius Gurlitt agreed to restitute any work identified as looted. Thus far, four such works have been returned to the heirs of their rightful owners. Cornelius Gurlitt, who died in May 2014, bequeathed his collection to the Kunstmuseum Bern. From 14 September the large scale exhibition Gurlitt: Status Report  will be presented at the Gropius Bau. Embedded in a wider historical context, the exhibition is based on the current state of research into the ‘Gurlitt cache’. The exhibition presents a selection of some 250 works, covering a broad spectrum of the history of art, that have been hidden from public view for decades and thematises the provenance of each of the works. Thus, the exhibition sheds light on the complex history of the individual objects and on the fate of the collectors, art dealers and artists – most of them Jewish – who fell victim to the systematic persecution of the Nazi regime. QF‑4, Martin-Gropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60. Open 10:00-19:00. Closed Tue. 14 Berlin In Your Pocket

Kraftwerk top the bill at this year’s Lollapalooza, Berlin’s biggest music festival, which takes place over two days in and around the iconic Olympic Stadium. Dua Lipa, Kygo, Imagine Dragons, Liam Gallagher, The Weeknd and David Guetta are just some of the other big names performing this year. QOlympic Stadium, Olympischer Platz 3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30 25 00 23 22, €139 (valid for both days), www.lollapaloozade.com/en.

25.08 18:00-02:00 » LONG NIGHT OF THE MUSEUMS

The Long Night of Museums, first organised here in Berlin in 1997 and now copied worldwide, is this year planned for Saturday, 25th August, when from 18:00 until 02:00 (although times do vary for some attractions) just about every museum across Berlin (80 in all) will open its doors, with over 800 special events, exhibitions, tours, children’s activities and concerts. You can walk between museums or use free shuttle buses. Tickets cost €18 (€12 concessions, free for kids under 12) and include access to all museums, the shuttle buses, public transport (from 15:00-05:00) . For more information and the free smartphone app see the English-language site www.lange-nacht-der-museen.de/en. Tickets can be purchased online, from BVG and S-Bahn ticket machines, tourist information, and participating museums. The hub of the Long Night of Museums is the Kulturforum at Potsdamer Platz.Qwww.lange-nacht-der-museen.de/en.

ISTAF 02.09 » ISTAF BERLIN

One of the world’s biggest annual track and field one-day meets takes places at Berlin’s iconic Olympic Stadium on September 2. World records are regularly set at the meet by the many big names from the world of athletics who always take part. This year looks set to be no exception. QOlympic Stadium, Olympischer Platz 3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30 25 00 23 22, From €9, www.istaf.de. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events

July 20 to September 23 www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de / Suitable for international guests

LIVE MUSIC

CABARET

12.08 » LEKKER PRESENTS: KYSON & WALLACE

Berlin based creative house Lekker Collective run curated, intimate soul events around Berlin every three-four months. This gig features  Australian (now Vienna-based) indie-electronic artist and producer  Kyson, and New Zealand-born, Australian-based songstress Wallace.QG‑2, Bar 21, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, MEberswalder Strasse, €9.

OPERA 25.08, 26.08 19:30 » THE MAGIC FLUTE

A family performance of Mozart’s fairytale opera in two acts, which means that tickets for under-18s cost just €10.QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €22-95, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

30.08, 13.09, 21.09, 27.09 19:30 » LA TRAVIATA

Verdi’s magnificent, timeless melodrama in three acts, sung in Italian with German and English surtitles. Salome Jicia takes the role of Violetta, Ido Arad conducts. Directed by Friedrich Götz.QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €29-95, www.deutscheoperberlin.de. facebook.com/InYourPocket

Cabaret

© XAMAX

31.07 - 23.09 » CABARET

Willkommen! Bienvenue! Welcome! The incredible, timeless story of Berlin’s wild 1920s and 1930s still manages to amaze just about every visitor who sees it. Relive the atmosphere of the era at Tipi am Kanzleramt with the musical version of Cabaret, made famous in the 1972 film starring the sublime Liza Minelli. The show is fabulous, a bit naughty and full of fun (just like Berlin itself ) and even if several of the songs are translated into German (English notes are available) it’s easy to follow the story. With seats from only €20 it’s a must-see if you’re in Berlin and want to see a living piece of the city’s history. Shows every day except Monday. Sunday performances start at 19:00.QE‑3, Tipi am Kanzleramt, Große Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipiam-kanzleramt.de. Closed Mon. August – September 2018

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Culture & Events EUROPE AND THE SEA

31.08, 22.09 19:30 » THE BARBER OF SEVILLE

Rossini’s melodrama buffo in two acts. In Italian language with German and English surtitles. Ido Arad conducts. QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €29-95, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

08.09, 12.09, 14.09 19:30 » NABUCCO

Zeljko Lucic is Verdi’s Nabucco. Opera in four parts. QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €29-95, www.deutscheoperberlin.de. Nordsee

© Jochen Hein

13.07 - 06.01 » EUROPE AND THE SEA

An exhibition by the Deutsches Historisches Museum in partnership with the Jean Monnet Chair for European History at the University of Cologne, looking at Europe as a maritime continent in geographical terms. Taking the length of the coastline relative to the total land area, Europe has more contact with the sea than any of the other continents. Nevertheless, the sea can seem very remote to people living in central and eastern Europe. In many countries, the sea is part of people’s daily reality only when they go there on holiday, or if they live on the coast. Europe and the Sea reveals just how fundamentally the sea has shaped the development of Europe, exploring the roles it has played and continues to play. The exhibition covers the centuries from the Age of Antiquity to the present. It examines the sea’s significance as a facilitator of European expansionism and trade, as a bridge and barrier, as a resource, and as a focus of yearning and imagination. In addition to the historical dimension, it casts a spotlight on many aspects that are of ever greater importance to us today. In view of the millions of refugees crossing to Europe, the role of the sea as a bridge and barrier to the continent has acquired new relevance. Environmental concerns, climate-related issues, and the use or overuse of marine resources are also subjects of growing public debate.QF‑3, Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00-18:00.

30.09 19:30 » TOSCA

Puccini’s opera in three acts, based on the play by Victorien Sardou. Liudmyla Monastyrska is Tosca.QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €29-128, www. deutscheoperberlin.de.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 31.07 20:00 » BAD RELIGION

They are undoubtedly among the forefathers of punk rock: Since being founded in Los Angeles in 1980, Bad Religion have had a decisive influence on the fate of this style of music. In 2010, they celebrated their 30th anniversary with a big world tour and proved in 2013, with their most recent studio album True North, that they are still special status after all these years. QColumbiahalle, Columbiadamm 13-21, MU Platz der Luftbrucke, € 37,15, www. badreligion.com.

12.08, 13.08 19:30 » JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE

The global superstar has announced his return to the stage with his highly anticipated “The Man of the Woods” tour. In Berlin with two concerts.QI‑4, Mercedes-Benz Arena, Mercedes Platz 1, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strasse, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 99, €80,90/225, www. justintimberlake.com.

17.08 18:30 » CARLOS SANTANA

At 71, Santana remains one of the world’s finest guitarists, and still manages to create a special sound and atmosphere wherever he plays. The Spandau Zitadelle is some venue, and Santana is more than capable of making the most of it. Not to be missed. QZitadelle Spandau, Spandau, Berlin, MU Zitadelle, €73, www.santana.com.

31.08, 01.09 20:00 » U2

Antonie Volkmar, Emigrants’ Farewell © Deutsches Historisches Museum, Berlin

16 Berlin In Your Pocket

Given that the band once recorded an album in the city, and used to tour with a Trabant, Berlin has long had a special place in its heart for U2. Still able to command a stadium-sized crowd an guaranteed to put on a show to remember, this is the German capital’s gig of the summer.QI‑4, Mercedes-Benz Arena, Mercedes Platz 1, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strasse, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 99, www.u2.com. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events SAVING

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 12.09 22:00 » TAMI NEILSON

Well known in the country and “Roots Music Scene” the Canadian-born singer gives only four concerts in Germany - this is one.QC‑4, Quasimodo, Kantstraße 12a, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 80 45 60, €23,50, www.tamineilson.com.

SPORTS 16.09 » BERLIN MARATHON

With around 35,000 participants, a million spectators, the fastest runners in the world and a series of world records, the Berlin Marathon is a fantastic event that dominates the city all weekend. There’s a men’s and women’s run, a race for wheelchairs, rollerbladers and children. To keep the runners and the audience inspired, dozens of bands perform along the route. The marathon runs clockwise through the city, from Tiergarten park east through Mitte and Friedrichshain, aross the Spree river into Kreuzberg and Schoeneberg and then via the southern suburbs back to Brandenburger Tor. The police have their own marathon to organise, blocking off dozens of streets as the participants come through; count on many blocked streets, and stick to the the U- and S-Bahn if you plan on getting anywhere fast on Saturday afternoon or Sunday morning.Qwww.bmw-berlin-marathon.com/en.

Berlin Marathon

facebook.com/InYourPocket



© Historisches Archiv der Erzgebirgssparkasse Schwarzenberg, Photo: Thomas Bruns

23.03 - 26.08 » SAVING

Saving goes without saying in Germany. Private households and public organizations, as well as companies, save on a large scale in Germany. Even in times of historically low interest rates, the majority of people in the country hasn’t questioned the point of saving in the private household, nor the doctrine of saving in German financial and foreign policy. Observers outside of Germany, however, have in recent years increasingly taken a critical view on the German propensity to save. They have questioned not only the role of Germany in enforcing austerity in the Eurozone, but also saving within Germany itself. The restrained expenditure of private and public budgets, as well as of companies, contributes considerably to the currentaccount surplus in the country, which is held to be a potential danger for the world economy and thereby also, by extension, for the German economy. The exhibition “Saving – History of a German Virtue” at the Deutsches Historisches Museum considers and discusses the saving-oriented behaviour passed down in Germany in the context of growing international criticism. It embarks on a search for the specific character of the German propensity to save, from its origins until today. Its precursors are taken into consideration, as are concrete historical manifestations of saving since the Late Enlightenment. The exhibition will illuminate the development of saving into an instrument of state funding as well as state welfare and social policies. Another focal point is the complementary relationship between prosaving propaganda and advertising and anti-Semitism. Spanning across various epochs, the exhibition traces the role of education on saving in the genesis of the German propensity – or urge – to save, as well as the relationship between saving and social and economic crises.QF‑3, Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00-18:00.

© In Your Pocket

August – September 2018

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Culture & Events CINEMAS Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled films; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU (original version with German/English subtitles) and OF or OV (original version); DF means German version. ARSENAL A little art house cinema screening international films in the basement of the Sony Center.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 2, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 95 51 00, www.arsenal-berlin.de. BABYLON MITTE A 1920s filmhouse with a great, varied programme, but beware of dubbed films. The building itself is a fine example of New Objectivity. Ocassionaly there are screenings of silent films, accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG‑2, Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de. CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL CineStar IMAX has blockbuster films and documentaries in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original cinema has Germany’s widest range of Hollywood and arthouse movies in their original English version. QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center), MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00, www.cinestar.de. HACKESCHE HÖFE Mainly shows foreign films in their original language.QG‑2, Rosenthaler Straße 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe.org. KINO IN DER KULTURBRAUEREI The multi-screen cinema in the beautiful KulturBrauerei complex screens films in original language every Monday.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, www.cinestar.de. SPUTNIK Berlin’s highest cinema screens a lot of indie films, many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a bit dicey working your way to the theater, but it’s safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the furniture.QG‑5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU Südstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnikkino.com. Tickets €5-6,5.

Full contents online: berlin.inyourpocket.com 18 Berlin In Your Pocket

OPEN-AIR CINEMAS There are many ways to spend the summer in Berlin, with fun activities during the day, a great variety of pools in which to beat the heat and go swimming, or simply jumping in the nearest lake. You can hang out in the city’s amazing parks or at the Tempelhofer Freiheit, then once the sun is gone of course you will find more than enough beer gardens to keep you happy. Another great way to start a summer night though is to visit one of the many open air cinemas Berlin offers in order to watch a movie. Here are our favourites - all a bit different, and each with something a bit special to offer. FREILUFTKINO KREUZBERG Opened in 1994, Freiluftkino Kreuzberg is one of the oldest open-air-cinemas in Berlin and has a longstanding tradition. There is a great variety of movies in the programme and digital screenings are the norm. In 2018 there will again be a daily-rotating programme with highlights from the current cinema season as well as classic and cult movies, featuring films from countries as diverse as Japan, Norway, Israel, Palestine and Spain. Foreign films are always presented in their  original versions with German subtitles, while German films are shown with English subtitles.QMKottbusser Tor, www.freiluftkinokreuzberg.de. € 7.50 € / 5-show ticket 30 €, 10-show ticket 55 € €. FREILUFTKINO FRIEDRICHSHAIN Located in the middle of the Volkspark Friedrichhain, this is one of the best-loved open air cinemas in Berlin.  1500 seats on comfortable benches with backrests, an additional 300 seats at tables and lush lawns on which you can spread out with your stroller, blankets and picnic basket.QVolkspark Friedrichshain, MLandsberger Allee, www.freiluftkino-berlin.de. € 7,50/5. FREILUFTKINO INSEL IN THE CASSIOPEIA The Freiluftkino INSEL is located in the charming courtyard of the Cassiopeia Club  on the RAW Area corner Simon Dach Strasse in Friedrichshain. Most films are shown in the original language with German subtitles (they are not dubbed) and guests can even use free blankets and umbrellas.QRevaler Str. 99, www.freiluftkino-insel.de. € 7,50. FREILUFTKINO HASENHEIDE A changing programme of Art House and cult films as well as selected mainstream movies awais you every day throughout the summer at the  Freiluftkino Hasenheide.  Spend the warm, starry nights under skies of  Neukölln, and note that films are shown in all weathers!QPark Hasenheide, MHermannplatz, tel. 030- 283 46 03, www.freiluftkino-hasenheide.de. €8/4. berlin.inyourpocket.com


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Mitte Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN ALPENSTUECK Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the palate.QF‑2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open 18:00-01:00. €€. T­U­G­B­S GAFFEL HAUS Serving the famed Gaffel Kölsch beer from Cologne in the small glasses typical for that city, Gaffel, a large and authentic beer house serving traditional German cuisine, lives up to expectations. Try the Fooderplaat snack plate with sausages and black pudding, the herring filet or the roast beef, or the excellent Wiener Schnitzel. On Friday after 17:00, drop by for the Eisbein (pickled ham hock) special, which includes a beer and a glass of Kabänes herb liqueur. When FC Köln plays on Sundays, Gaffel is full of cheering fans.QF‑3, Dorotheenstraße 65, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 31 01 16 93, www.gaffelhaus-berlin.de/. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. B MAXIMILIANS So you always wondered what Bavaria is like – the beer, the food, Oktoberfest – but you only made it as far as Berlin? No problem: Maximilians restaurant serves up authentic and delicious Bavarian cuisine just a stone’s throw from Gendarmenmarkt. The menu includes soups and salads, but the real specialities are the delicious Bavarian meat dishes such as knuckle of pork, steak, and a variety of sausages. QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 185-190, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. U­G­B­S

BACK TO SCHOOL The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the watering hole for adult students from all around the world who are learning German at the GLS language school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques. DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de. GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 27, www.gls-berlin.de. 20 Berlin In Your Pocket

MUTTER HOPPE Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided into cosy, low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers sides not served at other German restaurants, including green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further towards the Spree.QG‑3, Rathausstraße 21, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 24 72 06 03, www. en.mutterhoppe.de/. Open 11:30 - 24:00. €€. T­E­G­ B ROTISSERIE WEINGRÜN Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what was once Berlin’s old town, Weingrün’s fresh and simple interior is a great place to sample regional grill dishes such as Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar is stocked with wines from the owner’s own vineyards in the Pfalz. The restaurant offers good views over the Spree canal.QG‑4, Gertraudenstraße 10-12, Mitte, MU Spittelmarkt, tel. +49 30 20 62 19 00, www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. T­U­G­B­S­W SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth) and Schnitzel.QF‑3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:0024:00. €€. T­U­N­B­S STÄNDIGE VERTRETUNG Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn hangout (named after the West-German ‘embassy’ in the GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politician’s meeting point supplies the homesick with their beloved Kölsch beer and Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst and Saumagen), but the menu has a selection of Berlin food as well.QF‑3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.staev.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. B WEIHENSTEPHANER The one eatery on the sunny square that delivers a “hey, this is Germany!” experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple and satisfying Bavarian specialities (like white sausages). The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-white checked tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant.QG‑3, Neue Promenade 5, Mitte, MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 84 71 07 60, www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de. Open 11:00-01:00. €€. T­U­E­G­B berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte ZILLE-STUBE The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beafstuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG‑3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestubenikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. E

FOOD WITH A VIEW

ZUM NUSSBAUM What seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest. When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons don’t care for authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities with curious translations, such as ‘brown rolls with dripping’. QG‑3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. €. G­B ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZ Berlin’s oldest restaurant doesn’t lie on the tourist path, and maybe that’s why German leaders bring visiting heads of state here when everything in Mitte is too noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989, and Gerhard Schröder brought Jacques Chirac over for the Berlin specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003.QG‑3, Waisenstraße 14-16, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Open 12:0001:00. Closed Sun. €€. G­B­S

ASIAN JOLLY Opposite the Pergamon Museum, with tourists, trams and S-Bahn trains gliding by the windows, Jolly is a spacious and modern restaurant with delicious Cantonese Chinese and Thai dishes. Specialities include dim sum and Peking roast duck, served with pancakes and special sauce, but there’s also a wide variety of soups, and good portions of stir-fried meals and Thai curries, with servings of fluffy rice.QF‑3, Am Kupfergraben 4, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 20 05 95 01, service@restaurant-jolly.de, www. restaurant-jolly.de. Open 11:30 - 23:30. €€. A­U­B­S

PANORAMA CAFÉ The 1930s-style café at the top of the popular PanoramaPunkt viewing point on Potsdamer Platz is a great place for coffee, cakes and other snacks, before venturing on the open terrace with great views over Berlin. QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt. de. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Nov-Mar 11:00 - 17:00. Tower admission €7,50; family ticket €17,50. SPHERE At 207 metres this is Berlin’s highest restaurant, found at the top of the TV Tower. Gently rotating it gives you a spin around the city in 30 minutes, as you feast on food which is really rather good and well worthy of the surroundings. Soups, salads and light meals accompany your city tour, with attractive daily specials often the best choice. On weekends there’s a great Sunday breakfast menu, too: a very good way to start the day. Reservations advised, especially at lunchtime or in the evenings. QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 247 57 58 75, www.tv-turm.de. Open 09:00-23:00. €€€. E

KAMALA Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere, where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are rich and buttery.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. A­B

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Mitte OTITO Staying open later than others in Berlin’s tourist district, Otito is a good choice for fresh Vietnamese food at great prices, to eat in or take away. There’s fried spring rolls, wantan dumplings, pho soup and a variety of rice dishes – as well as an impressive list of sushi options.QLeipziger Str. 30, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 60 53 00, www. otito.de. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. VAN LONG Best visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities, from all parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty Thai options served in a modest space decorated with Vietnamese art. Try the specials such as the Cha Ca La Vong fish that you finish grilling at your table, or the Lau chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.QReinhardtstraße 8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 23 570, www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.

AUSTRIAN BRECHT KELLER The recipes served here are those of a busy Austrian actress making do with East German ingredients, so though decent, it’s not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) that’s famous, but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small basement cellar is full of family photographs and original set models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is what could only be described as a romantic brick-lined lounge area. A wall separates the terrace from the cemetery where the couple are buried.QF‑2, Chausseestraße 125, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 38 43, www.brechtkeller.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. B

FINE DINING AIGNER One of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly international, as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate from a famous Viennese café that closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh from the market.QF‑3, Französische Straße 25, Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00-02:00. €€€. T­U­G­B­S­W BORCHARDT Borchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good first impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the building’s original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which comes up with a different menu each day to keep its regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans, the beef dishes here are delectable.QF‑3, Französische Straße 47, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from 11:00. €€€. G­B 22 Berlin In Your Pocket

FACIL At the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare using only fresh, local products direct from the market. The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that retracts.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de. Open . Closed Sat, Sun, Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. U­G­B­ Wh FISCHERS FRITZ The restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined palate. Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef first trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei (as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, deep carpets and a fireplace.QF‑3, Charlottenstraße 49, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:3023:00. €€€€. P­A­G hh LUTTER & WEGNER Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put the sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt. There’s a warren of rooms in which to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts, and you can trust the national committee that dubbed the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003.QF‑3, Charlottenstraße 56, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-berlin.de. Open 11:0003:00. Closed Sun, The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while the Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. €€€. A­B PARIS-MOSKAU Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly positioned between new government offices and hotels. Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now. Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust, tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, there’s a lunch menu as well.QE‑3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00-24:00. €€€. A

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Mitte VOX Highly-paid business travellers from New York, London and Hamburg look quite at home in this excellent, minimalist and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. Between the DJ sets and creative cocktails in the adjoining bar and the show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, so don’t drop your sushi in your lap.QE‑4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 53 17 72, www.vox-restaurant.de. Open: Breakfast Mon-Fri 06:30 - 10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30 - 12:00. Dinner Sun-Thu 18:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 18:30 - 24:00. Bar Sun-Thu 18:00-01:00, Fri & Sat 18:00-02:00. €€€. P­A­ E­G­B

360° PANORAMIC VIEW EXHIBITION CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL NOLA’S AM WEINBERG Delicious modern Swiss cuisine served on the heady hights of Berlin’s city-centre Weinberg ‘mountain’. Get your tongue around amazing cheese-breadwine combinations and enjoy anything from healthy breakfasts to nicely priced weekday lunches and Sunday brunches to Alpine dinners including various fondue options.QVeteranenstrasse 9, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.nola.de. Open 10:00 - 01:00.

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TO THE BEST VIEWS OF BERLIN

PATIO Surprisingly few restaurants in Berlin make the most of the wonderful river views - but Patio is an exception, located on a boat with huge windows, a fireplace and large terrace areas. Watch the tour boats glide by as you try the international, Italian-inspired cuisine, or order one of the excellent cocktails.QHelgoländer Ufer corner Kirchstraße, Mitte, MS Bellevue, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 00, www.patio-berlin.de. Open 17:30 – 23:00. REINHARD’S Reinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel, and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG‑3, Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00-24:00. €€-€€€. T­G­B­S TRAUBE In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, ‘The Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: crossover food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes or compose their own menus, with or without wines. The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF‑2, Reinhardtstraße 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:0015:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. €€€. T­G­B facebook.com/InYourPocket

ition Exhib Views lin of Ber

Opening hours: Platform: 10:00-20:00 Café: 11:00-19:00 Shorter opening hours during winter Potsdamer Platz 1

www.panoramapunkt.de

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Mitte ZOLLPACKHOF Long one of the best German restaurants in the land, this place recently reopened after the completion of a threeyear renovation project, and the Zollpackhof beer garden looks better than ever. With a superb terrace offering views of the fine main building the menu boasts a wide range of first-class dishes, from homemade potato soup with fresh marjoram and Vienna sausages to duck roasted with oranges. The Schmankerl menu for two is as meaty a treat as you’ll find in all Berlin. The Sunday Brunch (from 11:30) is set to become legendary.QE‑3, ElisabethAbegg-Straße 1, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 33 09 97 20, www.zollpackhof.de. Open from 11:00. €€. T­U­G­B

JAPANESE COCOLO A completely authentic Japanese ramen noodle soup restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds of fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches and a line of hungry waiting guests. Start off with a bowl of salty green beans, choose from five delicious broths, have an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.QG‑2, Gipsstraße 3, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 172 304 75 84. Open 18:00-24:00. €€. G­B

SPANISH YOSOY TAPAS-BAR Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this intimate-sized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and a Spanish staff is one of the few to proudly show its roots. High stools and an open storefront give you a nice vantage point from which to watch the crowds flowing towards the Hackescher Höfe.QG‑3, Rosenthaler Straße 37, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 912 13, www.yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. €€. P­A­B

CAFÉS BARCOMI’S DELI Barcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coffee and luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaffeerösterei outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coffee.QF‑5, Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. TGBS

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© visitBerlin, WolfgangScholvien

THE DIGITAL EATERY Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very first café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (€8,90), or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic devices or use the free wifi. Best of all are the digital toys that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or play Xbox games.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W

Nightlife BARS AUFSTURZ The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable and the place looks good, with changing modern art exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger Straße haunt.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 67, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, kontakt@aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from 12:00. EB berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte CASINO SPIELBANK BERLIN The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette, American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book a tour including game instructions.QE‑4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission €2,50. Minimum age is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual. DER MAUERWINZER The ‘Vintner by the Wall’ serves around 100 wines from all 13 wine regions in both east and west Germany. Cosy up by the fireplace in winter or spread out on the terrace in summer to make the most of the fine wines, or get some bottles to take home.QWolliner Str. 20, Mitte, MU Eberswalder Strasse, tel. +49 30 48 49 15 01, www.mauerwinzer.de. Open 16:00 - 23:00. ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMP An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a stage, plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in the back yard shows foreign films in original version.QG‑3, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, post@eschschloraque.de, www.eschschloraque.de. Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW MEIN HAUS AM SEE It’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the ‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7, it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On the menu are drinks,

exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers, pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG‑2, Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, info@meinhaus-am-see.com, www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours Open 24/7. €. TUENGBSW REINGOLD A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with an oversize drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn offspring, Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though it often has a DJ, no one dances here. It’s a setting for making stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF‑2, Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 38 76 76, info@reingold.de, www.reingold.de. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB

CLUBS GRÜNER SALON Chandeliers dress up this occasional club venue, talk-show stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for standard evenings like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing.QG‑2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 24 59 89 36, www.gruener-salon.de. Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. HOUSE OF WEEKEND The old Weekend Club moved from 12th to the 17th floor of the beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on the corner of Otto-Braun-Straße. Probably the best rooftop view in town!QG‑3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 (0) 152 24293140, www.houseofweekend.berlin. Open Thu-Sat 23:00-04:00. KAFFEE BURGER The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in-theSocialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.QG‑2, Torstraße 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open from 21:00. E

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR Checkpoint Charlie Friedrichstraße 47 / corner Zimmerstraße | 10117 Berlin-Mitte Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Visitors’ service info@bfgg.de More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de

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August – September 2018

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Mitte

Let‘s go up!

ROTER SALON This place probably began with a faded elegance, but let’s say it’s just settled in after ten years of clubbers bouncing off its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop, electro lounge, and electroclash - the music Berlin is known for.QG‑2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU RosaLuxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175 12, www.rotersalon-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.

PUBS KILKENNY IRISH PUB The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station offer more than enough space for natives and tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make sure that you won’t miss a single goal. Irish and German beer, whiskey and other cold beverages flow freely.QG‑3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, info@kilkenny-pub.de, www. kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW

Sightseeing ATTRACTIONS

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online.

Tel: +49 (30) 24 75 75 875

www.tv-turm.de #BestViewofBerlin 26 Berlin In Your Pocket

LITTLE BIG CITY Brought to you by the makers of Madame Tussauds, The Dungeon, Sea Life and the Legoland Discovery Centre, Little Big City is a great new way to experience the story of Berlin on a totally new scale, bringing you closer to history than ever before. Located at the foot of Berlin’s iconic TV Tower, 3D, interactive miniature sets complete with amazing special effects allow you to take a unique look at Berlin’s most famous landmarks and breathtaking cityscapes in a whole new way. You could be forgiven for thinking this is a kids’ attraction: it is, for kids aged 0-99!QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 180 625 71 06, www.officiallittlebigcity.com/berlin. €12.

LANDMARKS BERLINER FERNSEHTURM (BERLIN TV TOWER) Now as much a symbol of Berlin as any other building, the 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969, is 70m higher than the Eiffel tower and still the tallest building in Germany. Its observation deck (which also houses Berlin’s highest bar) offers predictably amazing views of the entire city and beyond, while the Sphere restaurant on the floor above the viewing deck comes complete with a rotating floor. Photos as well as the Berlin TV Tower app point out the many, many Berlin landmarks for you. We recommend two visits, one by day, and one by night (it is open until midnight): you will get two completely different perspectives. Tip: buy your ticket online in advance to beat the queues. The main entrance is opposite Alexanderplatz S-Bahn train station.QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.tv-turm.de. Open 09:0024:00. Admission up €15,50/ €9.50/Free for the under-4s. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Europa Experience ERLEBNIS EUROPA

© Bernhard Ludewig

PERMANENT EXHIBITION EUROPA EXPERIENCE

A whole new way to experience Europe is what you can expect at this permanent exhibition in the European House Berlin. Set up at the initiative of the European Parliament in cooperation with the European Commission, Europa Experience gives you the possibility to find out more about European politics and above all how you can make a difference. And that in 24 European languages! Take a seat in the 360° cinema and experience a plenary session of the European Parliament. Or take part in a simulation game where you directly slip into the role of a Member of the European Parliament or a Commissioner of the European Union. You can also send greetings from Europe: send your family and friends a personal photo from Europa Experience.QF‑3, European House Berlin, Unter den Linden 78, MU/S Brandenburger Tor, www.erlebnis-europa.eu. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free.

© Michael Jungblut

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Mitte MUSEUMSINSEL The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of impressive collections of art, history and ethnology, covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as well as their cross-overs into modernity. ALTE NATIONALGALERIE Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are some of the artists whose works hang around this museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully battered colonnade.QG‑3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. ALTES MUSEUM This neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG‑3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 NEUE SYNAGOGE The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from 1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, first on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle but effective sound installation adds to the experience.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 28-30, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00, www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:0020:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat closed. Admission €3,50/3. POTSDAMER PLATZ Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the war, and suffered again when most remaining buildings were demolished to make way for the Wall’s death strip. Hotel and office skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt. The most popular public space and architectural attraction is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting. The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F‑4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz. 28 Berlin In Your Pocket

266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. NEUES MUSEUM Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular finds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has finds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany. One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were considered to be ‘degenerate art’ by the Nazis.QG‑3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6. PERGAMON MUSEUM The Pergamon museum is undergoing major renovations, with the north wing and the hall with the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG‑3, Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6. NIKOLAIVIERTEL Berlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche. The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday in the area in which the fishermen’s settlement first began. No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that the GDR government could afford. The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river. On Rathausstraße, there’s a row of restaurants that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits related to Berlin.QG‑3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, www.stadtmuseum.de. REICHSTAG The name together with its monumental size make most people associate Germany’s neoclassical parliamentary building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fire just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999. Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps the most public federal building in the world through its berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting the building’s history circle the rim above the parliament chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome, an engineering feat even more fascinating than the panoramic view from the top. It’s best to book an entry time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of the building in advance online; otherwise queue up for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the road. Photo ID is required.QF‑3, Platz der Republik 1, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/ htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.

PANORAMAPUNKT

CHURCHES BERLINER DOM The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from 1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side exhibit rooms and good views.QG‑3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission €7/4. DEUTSCHER DOM The baroque ‘German Church’ from 1701 was completed with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged by fire in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s. Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an exhibition about the development of parliamentarian democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows and the impressive building models on the top floor. Free tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking is required for individual visitors.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www.bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ ausstellungen/wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. FRANZÖSISCHER DOM The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkt’s grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and French only), dedicated to the thousands of French protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century. Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40 metres above street level, with great views all around. QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open 12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. Admission €2/1, viewing balcony €2.50/1. facebook.com/InYourPocket

© Landesarchiv Berlin

PANORAMAPUNKT It takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th and 25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans Kollhoff ’s magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to New York’s skyscraping glory days but also resembles the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the top floors there’s an exhibition about the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which went from world-class entertainment district to Wall-divided wasteland and back again within a generation. The rooftop terrace offers great closeup views of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and Tiergarten park. Indoors, there’s a café too.QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Viewing platform open 10:00-18:00, cafe open 11:0019:00. Admission €7.50; family ticket €17.50.

MEMORIALS FÜHRERBUNKER One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by walking to the end of In den Ministergärten, off Ebertstraße. A parking area surrounded by a prefabricated apartment complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed off during the complex’s construction in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstraße.QF‑3, In den Ministergärten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz. August – September 2018

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Mitte at no extra cost.QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 205, Mitte, tel. +49 34 13 55 53 40, www.die-mauer.de/en. Open 10:00 18:00, Mid-July to mid-Sept 10:00-19:00, Fri-Sun 10:0020:00. Admission €10/8. BLACK BOX COLD WAR The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and texts highlights the main events that took place here.QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, info@bfgg. de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €5/3,50. Wall Panorama

MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS OF EUROPE This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims. The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a field of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, creating an undulating landscape that fills two city blocks. The memorial has an undergound information centre which is not suitable for children.QF‑3, Cora-Berliner-Straße 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36, besucherservice@stiftung-denkmal.de, www.stiftungdenkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00-20:00, OctMar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

MUSEUMS ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN The round structure near Checkpoint Charlie houses an incredibly detailed 60 by 15 metre panoramic painting of the Berlin Wall and its scruffy surroundings as it looked in the mid-1980s. Artist Yadegar Asisi has incorporated his personal experiences of the time and the everyday banality of the Wall with fascinating small scenes of life, on both sides of the divide. Join the English tour on Thursdays 11:30

DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM According to the myth, currywurst is Berlin’s very own fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that first became popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be found at train stations and street corners across the city. This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this culinary creation. There’s a shop with sausage accessories and you can taste currywurst too.QF‑4, Schützenstraße 70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47, www.currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €11/8,50. DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM The imperial Zeughaus - a pretty, pink, early 18th century arsenal building by the Spree - houses the impressive German History Museum. The permanent exhibition provides insight into around 1500 years of Germany’s past. Around 7000 historical exhibits tell of people, ideas, events and historical developments from the 5th century to the end of the 20th century. The introductory section is devoted to changes in the boundaries of Germany and Europe and to the history of the German language. From there the tour through the exhibition examines political history as it was, and still is, shaped by rulers, politicians and constituted communities. It does not claim to present a comprehensive history of everyday routines, work and living conditions, but in many different ways it provides a view of the everyday life of various groups of society. On the tour through the exhibition you pass through a

asisi Panorama Berlin Friedrichstraße 205 10117 Berlin Checkpoint Charlie

Tickets and Service +49(0)341.35 55 34 0 service@die-mauer.de

Free Guided Tours Thursdays 11.30 a.m. in English – for Berlin discoverers

Opening hours daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Getting there U6 Kochstraße U2 Stadtmitte M29 Kochstraße

facebook.com/ asisi.berlin www.die-mauer.de die_mauer_panorama

ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN asisi.de | die-mauer.de

30 Berlin In Your Pocket

In cooperation with

berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte Schützenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte (Nähe Checkpoint Charlie) www.currywurstmuseum.com

Anfahrt | Directions U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie) U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)

EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN. TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART.

series of chronologically arranged historical epochs. The upper floor covers history up to the end of the First World War. The tour continues on the main floor through areas devoted to the Weimar Republic, the Nazi regime, the post-war period as well as the history of the two German states from 1949 to reunification in 1990, followed by the departure of the Allied Forces in 1994. Besides the permanent exhibition there are regularly changing exhibitions in the dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent an audio tour set for €3 or join the English-language highlights tour on Saturdays at 13:00. QF‑3, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8/4. Under 18 free. GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER The excellent national memorial site for the divided Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin Wall’s history in text, slides and dramatic film footage. An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for several more open-air exhibitions.QF‑2, Bernauer Straße 111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467 98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:3019:00, Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition open 24hrs). Admission free. GEMÄLDEGALERIE Berlin’s largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters include Dürer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians are represented by Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch rooms are especially good with a Vermeer and the world’s largest Rembrandt collection.QE‑4, Matthäikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, service@smb.museum, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4. facebook.com/InYourPocket

HAMBURGER BAHNHOF Berlin’s wonderful modern art museum is situated in a converted train station. It’s well worth a visit by those curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fixated by bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection.QE‑2, Invalidenstraße 50-51, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, hbf@smb.spk-berlin.de, www. hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. MEMU MENSCHEN MUSEUM The Menschen Museum, the world’s first museum dedicated to the human body, invites the visitor to embark on a journey through life and inspires visitors to contemplate what makes us human. The exhibition shows us what connects us, what keeps us upright and in motion, what makes us laugh and what makes us love. It gives the visitor insights into the highly complex, yet fragile and vulnerable structures of the human body. You will find it at the base of the Fernsehturm tower. S-Bahn 5, 7, 75, 9 and U-Bahn 2, 5, 8 will get you here, as well as buses TXL, 100, 200.QG‑3, Panoramastrasse 1a (Fernsehturm tower), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.memu.berlin. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €14/12.

Deutsches Currywurst Museum

August – September 2018

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Mitte MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the personalities that gave it glamour and style came from Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country with a strong film-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting of Olympia (1936) and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda films will impress ‘seen-that’ film buffs. The museum ends with special effects and science fiction.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 2 (Sony Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission €6/4,5. MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere there’s the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites, the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla Bobby from the primates hall.QF‑2, Invalidenstraße 43, Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85 91, info@mfn-berlin.de, www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,50. SAMMLUNG BOROS (BOROS COLLECTION) A showpiece M1200-type bunker from 1941, previously used for fruit storage and as an infamous techno and fetish club, is now the private art gallery of advertising executive Christian Boros and his wife, who live in the penthouse bungalow on top. It’s full of wonderful modern art which can be viewed on excellent English-language guided tours (booked well in advance).QF‑3, Reinhardstraße 20, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 27 59 40 65, www.sammlung-boros.de. Open Thurs 15:00-20:00, FriSun 10:00-20:00. Admission €12/6.

Shopping ALEXA CENTRE A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafés. There’s a massive kids’ area with a cinema and the LOXX model train exhibition.QG‑3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00, www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:0019:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 32 Berlin In Your Pocket

DUSSMANN Dussmann is the biggest and unquestionably best bookstore in Berlin, set over five amazing levels with an excellent, separate section for English-language books, and a huge travel section. Besides books there is music, film and gifts, a wonderful stationers and an elegant cafe and restaurant. The place looks fantastic - the vertical garden in a sight in itself - and you could end up spending the whole day here. QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 90, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 20 25 11 11, www.kulturkaufhaus.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. GUDRUN SJÖDÉN Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjödén in a bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. There’s two floors of clothing and a cozy café corner.QMarkgrafenstr. 32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Hotels OVER €200 GRAND HYATT Part of the mini-city at Potsdamer Platz, this might just be the coolest hotel in Berlin, with great architecture and furniture arranged all Feng Shui. Perks in the large rooms include books and fruit.QE‑4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 53 12 34, www.berlin.grand.hyatt.com. 342 rooms (342  singles €220 - 235, 342 doubles €265 - 280, 14 triples €385 - 400, 10 suites €505 - 885, 2 presidential suites €2520 - 3335). P­H­A­R­U­F­L­E­G­K­D­C hhhhh MARRIOTT Ten floors of superb rooms and conference facilities overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning 3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one wall plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make this one of Berlin’s finest hotels.QE‑4, Inge-BeisheimPlatz 1, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22 00 00, www.marriott.com. 379  rooms (350  singles €159 - 219, 350 doubles €159 - 219, 9 suites €350 - 1200, 80 executive room €199 - 259) Breakfast extra. A­P­ G­L­K­H­C­D­F hhhhh

€75-150 HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence (Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer.QF‑2, Tieckstraße 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50, info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond.de. 24 rooms (singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225). AG berlin.inyourpocket.com


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Charlottenburg & the West Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN APRIL This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.net. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS KNESE Alt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on offer at rustic Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes, the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some good South-African wine.QC‑4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TB LINDENWIRTIN A Berlin pub and restaurant as good as any and better than most. There is a fabulous range of draught beers, many local, and the food is a cracking selection of all your Mitteleuropa

favourites, not least the fantastic schnitzel which is one of the best we’ve eaten in this city. The roast goose can also be vouched for. Lively atmosphere made all the better by a regular crowd of locals as well as visitors to Berlin who have heard about how good it is. Go there!QLindenallee 28, MU Theodor-Heuss Platz, tel. 30 302 77 47, www. habels-lindenwirtin.de/. 15:00 - 24:00. RENGER-PATZSCH Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen. QD‑5, Wartburgstraße 54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€. RESTAURANT SCHLOSSGARTEN A stone’s throw from the elegant Charlottenburg palace and several other top-class museums, the Schlossgarten is an excellent restaurant with a bright interior, a separate small ‘Jägerstübchen’ room and a large 80-seat Biergarten that’s delightful in summer. Schlossgarten specialises in German and game dishes, using fresh and seasonal regional products. Try the spicy venison goulash soup, a game Bratwurst, one of the fresh fish dishes or the Berliner calf liver.QB‑3, Schlossstr. 64, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 36 70 22 99, www.restaurant-schlossgarten-berlin.de. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00. SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNE Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree, sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote Grütze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD‑5, Motzstraße 61, Schöneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21 96 98 61, schoeneberger_weltlaterne@yahoo.de, schoeneberger-weltlaterne.mycylex.de. Open 17:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB

Local cuisine Wartburgstraße 54 Berlin - Schöneberg Open daily from 18:00 Tel. 784 20 59 www.renger-patzsch.com Renger-Patzsch

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Charlottenburg & the West AUSTRIAN OTTENTHAL The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh, seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town, Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil, are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite spots.QC‑4, Kantstraße 153, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. VGB

Zillemarkt

ZILLEMARKT The kind of quintessential Berlin venue you just have to come and eat when visiting the German capital. Serving - in their own idiom - solid Berlin dishes (as well as much else, including a decent selection of fish and seafood) this place just oozes charm and atmosphere and Berliner Allerlei (Berlin pot pourri). It is as well known for its kartoffel  pizza (potato pizza) as it is for its  homebrewed Zillebrau beer, which is fantastic and at €3.80 for half a litre is one of the top value pints in the city: enjoy it in the big, lovely beergarden.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00-24:00. T­B

AMERICAN HARD ROCK CAFE This is the place to head to meet both foreigners and locals looking for huge piles of food and un-Germanly friendly staff. America dominates the menu, with nachos, wraps, fantastic hamburgers, steaks and chocolate peanut butter pie. When the kitchen closes, the bar continues, allowing visitors to party on.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 224, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 88 46 20, www.hardrock.com. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 00:30. (€10-20). P­A­E­G­B

SCHNITZELEI Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre, with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations, though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB‑3, Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS

JJ

Zillemarkt

Caféhaus • Restaurant

Over 100 years of comfort and quality Traditional German cuisine

ASIAN SUKSAN A short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials, or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD‑4, Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de, www.suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.

Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00 Daily 12:00 - 24:00 Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00

Full contents online: berlin.inyourpocket.com

Tel. Tel. 030-881 030-881 70 70 40 40 Bleibtreustr. Bleibtreustr. 48a, 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg Berlin-Charlottenburg www.zillemarkt.de www.zillemarkt.de

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Charlottenburg & the West

SUKSAN

TRAVEL FAR. EAT AT HOME Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip to the land of smiles.

100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE

ORIGINA L THAI FOO D

SUKSAN Ansbacher Strasse 4 corner Kurfürstenstrasse U - Wittenbergplatz www.suksan.de

TEL 030.21 01 86 73 36 Berlin In Your Pocket

FINE DINING FIRST FLOOR A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieter’s restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who can’t move well after a seven-course meal make a point of staying at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and the Far East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu.QD‑4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, www.palace.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. G h GROSZ A true old-fashioned Grand Cafe and restaurant, conceived in the same style as during the Ku’damm’s heyday, a century ago. Grosz not only looks magnificent with its architecture, the fine dining is as good as it gets in this part of town. Settle down for an exquisite dinner - perhaps even private dining? - or drop by earlier for the Plat du jour lunch special or the cakes from the house patisserie.QKurfürstendamm 193/194, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrasse, tel. +49 30 652 14 21 99, www.grosz-berlin.de. Open 09:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:30.

FRENCH LE PETIT ROYAL Fantastic, high quality French cuisine, focussing on classic dishes, fresh seafood and fish - but there’s great steak too. And it’s no problem to pair whatever you order to one of the 500 wines stored in the large wine room. The beautifully designed space is perfect for a special night out. QC‑4, Grolmanstrasse 59, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 330 06 07 50, www.lepetitroyal.de.

INTERNATIONAL DIEKMANN Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlin’s simple tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients. Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French cheeses.QC‑4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmannrestaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB DRESSLER A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling, large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden 39.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurantdressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB berlin.inyourpocket.com


Charlottenburg & the West DUKE Creative international crossover meals are served in the aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling 1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary treats.QD‑4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€€€€€. EINHORN A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only. Every day there’s a completely different menu, with European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC‑4, Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-catering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. NGS

ITALIAN LOCANDA A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The pasta, fish and meat dishes are simple, and all simply delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite the Schaubühne theatre.QB‑4, Lehniner Platz 2, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69 68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. T­N­G­B­S ZWÖLF APOSTEL The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business lunch options offer good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2, under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. TNGBS

JAPANESE 893 RYŌTEI We ate here recently and loved it. This is Japanese food done the right way in the right atmosphere by a group of chefs who seriously know their stuff. There’s sashimi and sushi all prepared exquisitely, as well as a whole host of cooked dishes, of which the pick for us was the outstanding miso cod. The bar is as hip as the restaurant (and stays open late) and the place oozes class while keeping prices down: you will leave thinking it really should have all cost a lot more. QC‑4, Kantstrasse 135, MS Savignyplatz, tel. 30 917 031 21, www.893ryotei.de/. Open 18:30-23:30, Closed Mon. SACHIKO SUSHI An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town, dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant with some of the best sushi in town. facebook.com/InYourPocket

Not afraid to serve classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, here’s your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC‑3, Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. TGBS

SPANISH EL DORADO Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just want to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass by.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€. B

CAFÉS CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This café, restaurant and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as well as regional food, coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food served till 22:00.QD‑4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats, polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you don’t have to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout. Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC‑4, Fasanenstraße 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.de, www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€. GB

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Charlottenburg & the West CAFE KALWIL A cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg. Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coffee, quality teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals and more.QD‑4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 22:00. €€. ABW GRENANDER MORNING GLORY Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your morning.QD‑4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www. grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS WHAT DO YOU FANCY LOVE? Away from the posh cafes along the Ku’damm, try a relaxed cup of coffee, slice of cake, or healthy snack, juice or smoothie at ‘Fancy’.QKnesebeckstr. 68/69, Charlottenburg, www.whatdoyoufancylove.de. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Nightlife BARS ALT BERLINER BIERSALON A favourite for many foreigners - a huge bar with cosy corners as well as areas where wild sports fans can watch a large screen. The bar serves well-priced German and international food as well as big breakfasts. Groups are welcome actually you can fit 499 of your buddies plus yourself in here.QC‑4, Kurfüstendamm 225, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 884 39 90, www.alt-berlinerbiersalon.de. Open 24hrs. €€. T­U­E­G­B­S­W GREEN DOOR This dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded, green leather door protects those prone to bumping into things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up, and quite steady on their feet.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße 50, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15, www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. MOMMSEN-ECK With traditional charm in a street north of the Ku’damm, Mommsen-Eck is a comfortable and atmospheric pub and bistro boasting over a hundred types of best-quality beer, lovingly preserved and served either inside or on the spacious terrasse. Full menu, including Sunday brunch. QB‑4, Mommsenstraße 45, Charlottenburg, MS Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 324 25 80, www.mommseneck.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. T­B 38 Berlin In Your Pocket

ZILLEMARKT BEERGARDEN

ZILLEMARKT The beergarden in the courtyard at the rear of the Zillemarkt restaurant is one of those landmark Berlin venues which offers a quintessential experience. The kind of place you would be mad not to visit at least once during a trip to the German capital. You’ll meet locals, travellers, often sharing one of the tables as they down pints of the excellent (and good value) Zillerbrau beer. Add in good food and you have the makings of a first class evening. Get there! QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. T­B ZWIEBELFISCH The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out the beer or coffee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC‑4, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW HEFNER The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner prides itself on having the best selection of Martini cocktails in Berlin.QC‑4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg, MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefnerberlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB

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Charlottenburg & the West PUBS

CHURCHES

THE HARP A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights and live music too. The pub can be booked for special occasions.QB‑4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harp-pub.de, www.harp-pub. de. Mon-Fri from 15:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. €-€€. EBW

GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s landmark attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germany’s culpability is declared on a plaque: ‘The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of God’s judgement, which befell our people during the war years.’ The 1895 church was once a symbol of national pride: even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many of them free.QD‑4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:0019:00.

UNION JACK A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this whisky pub is one of Berlin’s first true pubs and continues to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys (from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers. Solid food is available too – home made snacks and Walkers crisps.QC‑4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun Open from 19:00. Sun closed.

Sightseeing LANDMARKS OLYMPIC STADIUM The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936 Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly floating roof whose translucent skin offers shelter for almost all of the 75,000 seats. On nonevent days you can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide, or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz 3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30 25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de, www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June - mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-16:00. Admission €7/5. SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace in 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter facade and central tower, took its final form in 1790. You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA‑3, Spandauer Damm 20-24, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues closed. Admission €12/8, New Wing €6/5. Photo permit €3. facebook.com/InYourPocket

MUSEUMS BRÖHAN MUSEUM A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and craft design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by so much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy and indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent collection (spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases, and furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter Behrens and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions.QB‑3, Schloßstraße 1a, Charlottenburg, MU Sophie-Charlotte-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00, www.broehan-museum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/4. C/O BERLIN The famed C/O photo gallery is now based in the iconic Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There are multiple exhibitions on at any time, by both unknown and renowned photographers. Don’t miss the cafe and the museum shop either.QC‑4, Hardenbergstraße 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Admission €10/5. MUSEUM FÜR ASIATISCHE KUNST Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian Art museum has an impressive permanent collection of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts.QTakustraße 40, Zehlendorf, MU Dahlem-Dorf, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3. August – September 2018

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Where Pac Man lives. Open daily from 10 am – 8 pm 10243 Berlin | Karl-Marx-Allee 93a | U5 Weberwiese www.computerspielemuseum.de

INTERNATIONAL SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service – what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian options.QI‑3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 24:00. €. TUNGBS

CAFÉS MACONDO Macondo was the setting of García Márquez’ novel 100 Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful ‘reading café’. There’s old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday market, good coffee and original South American mate tea, sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI‑4, Gärtnerstraße 14, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, info@mancondo-berlin. de, www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW

Nightlife BARS ASTRO-BAR A firm Friedrichshain favourite, this incredibly scruffy sci-fi themed bar is open late - very late - and serves good cocktails at great prices. Visited by a wild variety of people, weekend evenings are the best times to come, when DJs from Berlin’s underground party scene spin their electropop and retro records. No real dancefloor unfortunately, but nobody will stop you from just wiggling anywhere. It has an Attacks From Mars pinball machine.QI‑4, Simon-Dach-Straße 40, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße. Open from 20:00 - open end. DJs every night from 22:00. B CRACK BELLMER A barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking however; there’s film screenings, and a good-sized space facebook.com/InYourPocket

for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Straße.QI‑4, Revaler Straße 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, www. crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. U­N­B

Sightseeing MUSEUMS COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM (COMPUTER GAME MUSEUM) Just five minutes from Alexanderplatz the world’s first computer games museum presents six epic decades of gaming history, including the Nimrom - the world’s first game computer - the Giant Joystick, Painstation, Arcade Hall, the legendary Pong machine, a Wall of Hardware and modern 3D games. With 300 exhibits, rare originals and working classics, you’re welcome to try out many games yourself. The gift shop is a gamer’s Alladin’s Cave: loads of good stuff from emoji cushions to PacMan ice cube trays. There is a tour of the museum on Saturday and Sunday, at 12pm. Tickets for the tour cost €4 (€3 concession), while a family tour ticket costs a bargain €5 per family. There are also reductions on normal entrance tickets if you come after 6pm (it is open until 8pm).QI‑3, Karl-Marx-Allee 93a, Friedrichshain, MU Weberwiese, tel. +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.computerspielemuseum.de. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission €9/6.

Computerspielemuseum

August – September 2018

41


Prenzlauer Berg On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old working-class district in the former East Berlin that came through the war relatively unscathed. After 1989, the cool brigade pounced on the area, and houses that were once home to East German punks were renovated in odes to pastel. The number of wine shops and young parents pushing pricey prams indicates the level of gentrification here. The best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz, Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer Berg’s best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre, set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the west.

POCKET WALK: PRENZLAUER BERG Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstraße from U-Bahn station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn into beautiful Husemannstraße, which was already restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistraße where you’ll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead; enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Straße and amble down Lychenerstraße to pretty, café-lined Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstraße west, turn left down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn station to Eberswalder Straße; you’ll soon reach the popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Straße with its excellent Wall Memorial.

HOTEL MYER’S HOTEL BERLIN Featuring all sorts of wonderful extras, including a lovely spa in the basement, this rather special hotel is a real find that we heartily recommend. There is a range of rooms to choose from: all far bigger than you would expect and all furnished in a classy and really rather luxurious way. The delicious and vast buffet breakfast is one of the best in the city.QH‑2, Metzer Straße 26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 40, www.myershotel.de. 51 rooms (8 singles Erich Wein Rode -€85 Schive€75 ert- 185, 1 suite €195 - 345, lbeiner 135, nber Str. 33 doubles Str. gK 10 Premium €115 265). A­G­R­H uglerst Schönhauser Allee Dänenstr. er

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Prenzlauer Berg Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN DIE SCHULE Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk. Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can have all the German food classics, and even better: you can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG‑2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-dieschule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW

Die Schule

METZER ECK Opened 1913, time seems to have stood still in the oldest tavern in Prenzlauer Berg - and that’s the way the regulars like it. The Eck serves inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages, Boulette (hamburger), and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes), and has a letter from artist Heinrich Zille to the first tavern owner hanging on the back wall, as well as a savings box that regulars once contributed to.QG‑2, Metzer Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 442 76 56, info@metzer-eck.de, www.metzer-eck.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €. N­G­B­S RESTAURATION 1900 Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options. Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at the weekly market, and on Sundays to fill up at the all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet.QH‑2, Husemannstraße 1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €-€€. TBSW

FAST FOOD KONNOPKE’S IMBISS The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss is just south, facebook.com/InYourPocket

beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin wrapping).QG‑1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65, www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €.

INTERNATIONAL CAFÉ ISTORIA One of the more reasonably priced restaurants on Kollwitzplatz, Istoria starts the day with hearty breakfasts (served until 16:00) that include omelettes (not as easy to find in Berlin as you’d think). Evening diners have a wide variety to choose from: turkey with cranberry sauce, 16 pizzas, or homemade gnocchi or parpadelle. The menu is international, but since the chef is Italian, you can never go wrong with pasta.QH‑2, Kollwitz Straße 64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 05 02 08, www.istoriaberlin.de. Open 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. €. B GUGELHOF During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrification, the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state: Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; this is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.QH‑2, Knaackstraße 37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, gugelhof@t-online.de, www.gugelhof.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A

DAILY 11.00 – 24.00

Modern and light German food on Berlin‘s catwalk no.1 KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN FON: (030) 78 00 89 5 -50 info@restaurant-die-schule.de www.restaurant-die-schule.de U2

Eberswalder Str.

U8

Rosenthaler Platz

August – September 2018

43


Prenzlauer Berg ITALIAN PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB

JAPANESE SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd this five-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki, California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak English.QH‑2, Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€.

SANTIAGO This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a somewhat dodgy interior – leather sofas and glitzy girl statues that wouldn’t look out of place in a nightclub – but manages to get the punters in with a range of attractively priced offers like cocktails during the happy (before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). There’s an eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at weekends.QH‑2, Wörtherstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open 16:00 - 03:00. WEINSTEIN An older crowd savours an evening of conversation and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better places to try the outstanding German whites that usually don’t make it out of the country and there’s also a selection of sherries.QH‑1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42, weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.

CAFÉS ANNA BLUME Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts, it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just reading. Intriguingly, it also sells flowers (Blume) from the connected shop next door – and the smell of coffee and fresh flowers combines very well.QH‑2, Kollwitzstraße 83, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00. SCHALL UND RAUCH ‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar at night together with a variety of artists, students and young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent hotel has modern and affordable double rooms.QG‑1, Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

Nightlife BARS AUGUST FENGLER A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley) too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco, and funk in the small back dance room.QG‑1, Lychner Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. 44 Berlin In Your Pocket

@InYourPocket WOHNZIMMER If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDRera tables are constantly being shuffled to make room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s coffee and pastries in the morning.QH‑1, Lettestraße 6, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00.

CLUBS GEBURTSTAGSKLUB Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of this otherwise spacious cellar. Don’t miss the mad monthly drag party with Nina Queer. Like at many clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.QH‑2, Am Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Schillingstraße, tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00. SODA CLUB In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with a lesson hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five dancefloors with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get in for free until 01:00.QSchönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 443 151 55, info@sodaberlin.de, www.soda-berlin.de. Open Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00 Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Prenzlauer Berg Sightseeing LANDMARKS KULTURBRAUEREI Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century brewery and you’ll eventually find an entryway into a nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is filled with bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only thing you won’t find is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to live bands.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52, www.kulturbrauerei.de.

MUSEUMS ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZEL’S MIETSHAUS Gentrification has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating museum shows master carpenter Brunzel’s apartment in its original state, with extensive information about its construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid living conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and Berlin.QH‑1, Dunckerstraße 77, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.de. Open 11:00 16:30. Closed Wed. Admission €2/1.

Raumerstr. 8 [Helmholtzplatz] 40301770 www.tausche.de

FASHION & SHOES TAUSCHE TASCHEN Bags with exchangeable flaps in over 100 different designs. Two flaps are included and various insets equip the bag to suit any occasion.QH‑1, Raumerstraße 8, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 70, info@tausche.de, www. tausche.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

PARKS AND GARDENS MAUERPARK The immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery to speak of; this is an intensely used piece of former border strip that’s especially busy on Sundays when it hosts a flea market and the immensely popular Bearpit Karaoke (every second Sunday from 15:00), where anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a crowd of thousands.QG‑1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark. info.

Shopping BOOKS SHAKESPEARE & SONS An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language books as well as coffee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH‑1, Raumerstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. facebook.com/InYourPocket

MARKETS FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative souvenirs and antiques - it’s all available (though not particularly cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark flea market. Arrive early to avoid the crowds.QG‑1, Bernauer Straße 63-64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Straße, tel. 0176 29 25 00 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun 09:00-15:00.

Full contents online: berlin.inyourpocket.com August – September 2018

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POCKET WALK: KREUZBERG Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der Luftbrücke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards and walk along genteel Bergmannstraße, perhaps visiting a café or the market hall, before walking south to Columbiadamm for access to the former Tempelhof airport, now a wonderful park. Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through ‘little Istanbul’ to Oranienplatz and follow the park to the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across Landwehrkanal into the trendy ‘Kreuzkölln’ district for cupcakes and cocktails.

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Everyone knows Kreuzberg. Or so they think. The former sixth borough of Berlin, now part of FriedrichshainKreuzberg, enjoys an opinion of being unruly, unkempt and eager to party. But although it might be all of those things, it is also so much more. The around 10 km² of its territory are home to over 150,000 people living in two areas traditionally known as SO36 (eastern part with Wrangelkiez) and SW61 (West Kreuzberg). The elevated railway line, U1, has been weaving its way through both since 1902 when the world-famous engineering company Siemens & Halske (itself established in Kreuzberg’s Schöneberger Straße 19) constructed it here as a test project for the rest of Berlin. The line partly runs along another famous Kreuzberg feature, the Landwehrkanal. The canal built in 1850 by Berlin’s nineteenth-century “Gardener-in-Chief” Peter Joseph Lenné flows lazily through Kreuzberg and towards Tiergarten, providing both a beautiful scenery for lazy summer afternoons on its banks and an opportunity for pretty much MITTE unperturbed cruises in inflatable boats or canoes. In the evenings its bridges often become venues for impromptu concerts of yet-undiscovered artists. Those who care to look will see beyond the party-image Kreuzberg has been associated with for the past several years – it is a myth gleefully perpetuated by many tourist guides and guidebooks and one that Kreuzberg doesn’t need to make it attractive. It is attractive not because it is unruly, unkempt or eager to party – what makes it special is the fact that it is a fascinating part of Berlin and that it is unique.

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Kreuzberg

Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN ALTES ZOLLHAUS A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities featuring things such as goat’s cheese, dumplings, mustard sauce and compotes.QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.altes-zollhaus.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. TUGBW

Rie mers

HENNE Who knew that the Germans fried chicken? Other than a few Wursts, chicken is all that’s served in this cosy corner tavern, along with sides of coleslaw and mayonnaisefilled potato salad. The crisp, salty skin gives you another reason for quaffing yet another beer or wine. For a few euros, you get a lot of wood-paneled atmosphere.QH‑4, Leuschnerdamm 25, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 614 77 30, www.henne-berlin.de. Open Tues-Sat from 19:00; Sun 17:00-22:00. Mon closed. €€. N­G­B­ S RIEHMERS Gorgeous, contemporary dining in elegant Kreuzberg surroundings. The food is as upmarket as the place itself, and the menu changes with the seasons: the chef uses only what’s fresh and available. It’s always a mix of inventive fusion cuisine and modern remakes of classic dishes, including a wild garlic risotto that will have you doing cartwheels of delight. At this time of year the tables outside on the street are a prize worth reserving well in advance. Prices very good given the high quality.QF‑5, Hagelbergerstraße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmers-restaurant.de. Open 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€-€€€. T­G­ B­S­W

Hagelberger Straße 9 10965 Berlin T 030 78 89 19 80 www.riehmers-restaurant.de Riehmers

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August – September 2018

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AUSTRIAN

CHAN A sleek eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, cleancut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical Asian street food. There’s everything from Thai spring rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies too.QH‑5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 69 53 33 22, www.chanberlin.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. €€. U­N­G­B­S­W

AUSTRIA Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and antlers on the wall.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 30, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www. austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUBS

KINNAREE THAI Named after a mythological creature representing female beauty and grace, Kinnaree is a friendly and affordable Thai restaurant serving everything from Satay Gai chicken skewers in peanut sauce to spicy green curry with shrimps and bamboo. There’s a range of cocktails and quality wines too.QSüdstern 14, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 57 79 41 99, www.kinnaree-thai.de. Open 12:00–23:00, Sat 13:00– 23:00. PAGODE Simply one of the best Thai restaurants in town. It feels crowded, steamy and noisy, but that’s just part of the authentic self-service atmosphere; wait till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are flown in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 691 26 40, www.pagodethaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. VBS

Pagode

SAROD’S Kreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent, healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat with roast rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good selection of wines too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. TGBSW 48 Berlin In Your Pocket

FAST FOOD BERGMANN CURRY A fast food joint with quality organic Currywurst, fries, meat balls and more. The menus include the ‘Rockefella’ dish served on porcelain with a glass of champagne, and there’s vegan wurst, burgers and sweet potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot chilli sauce from the bottles on the ‘board of pain’.QBergmannstraße 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www. bergmann-curry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. CURRY 36 If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, you’ll order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you might earn an iota of respect from the hardboiled Fraus who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin specialities you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables are the fried burgers, Boulette.QF‑5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www.curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. €. S GLÜCK TO GO This unusual fast-food restaurant was inspired by a trip to India’s Gujarat province and serves happiness to go: delicious protein-rich vegetarian/vegan burgers, fries with ayurvedic spices, and healthy juice concoctions; all home-made with organic and regionally sourced ingredients. The delicious Orient Express burger has beet root, spices and special date chutney, and there’s three other burgers to choose from. Finish off with a low-fat Shrikhand yoghurt. Set menus from €6-8,50.QF‑5, Friesenstraße 26, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 623 10 04, www.glueck-togo.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-20:00. €. B

INTERNATIONAL ANKERKLAUSE The bohemians that hang out here are late-risers who come to watch the Turkish market unfold and witness how peacefully gulls, swans and cruise boats can co-exist. On a good day, the French toast with fruit can come out looking like it’s auditioning for the Waldorf-Astoria’s buffet. The Mexican breakfast will tide you over for two meals.QH‑5, Kottbusser Damm 104, Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 30 693 56 49, www.ankerklause.de. Open 10:00-04:00, Mon 16:0004:00. €. T­U­N­G­B berlin.inyourpocket.com


Kreuzberg

HOPPETOSSE An elegant white ship moored along Treptow’s Arena complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional and international meals to go with good sunset views towards Oberbaumbrücke bridge, just upstream. For daytime visitors there’s drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit up on deck to catch the sea breeze.QI‑5, Eichenstraße 4, Treptow, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 40, www.arena-berlin.de. Open 12:00-23:00. €-€€. N­G­ B­S­W VAN LOON Where better to eat fish than at this lovely restaurant ship, moored in the peaceful Urbanhafen habour on the Landwehrkanal: the downstairs lounge has large windows, but the view’s better from the sundeck. There’s salmon, herring and smoked fish specialities as well as a range of special fish & chips. The daily menu has meat, vegetarian and vegan meals too.QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 7, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 62 93, www.vanloon. de. Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. T­E­N­G­B­W

ITALIAN AMICI AMICI This is an amazing Italian restaurant which since it opened in 2006 has become recognised as one of the best in the city, and yet it retains an unpretentious air of authenticity. From the chequered tablecloths to the facebook.com/InYourPocket

daily specials prepared in the open kitchen behind the counter this place gets so much right that other, more expensive Berlin Italians get wrong. The food is Sicilian, with a rich mix of fantastic fresh ingredients used to make everything: it is all bio, and all the real deal. This is a good-time eatery: bring a group and settle in for a long evening.QF5, Mehringdamm 40, MU Mehringdamm, tel. 030 746 841 21, www.amici-amici.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CALIGARI A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez neighbourhood of Neukölln, with freshly made pasta, soups, salads and deserts. They’re planning Supper Club nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things could happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neukölln, tel. +49 30 52 64 98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00 - 23:00. GORGONZOLA CLUB An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the green outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are additional changing dinner options too. For afterdinner cocktails simply go next door to the Würgeengel bar.QH‑4, Dresdener Straße 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www. gorgonzolaclub.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €. B August – September 2018

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Mehringdamm 40, Berlin • tel. 030 746 841 21 • www.amici-amici.de • Daily 12:00 - 24:00 OSTERIA N°1 Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from different parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six different lunch menus from €7.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße 71, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. B

BEER GARDENS DAS EDELWEISS The goods platform of the old Görlitzer Bahnhof train station now serves as a lovely deck-chaired terrace for the Edelweiss restaurant and café. There’s all-day breakfast, great German cuisine with seasonal and regional products, drinks, and live Jazz sessions on Tuesday nights. It’s especially well-positioned for people-watching; Görlitzer Park attracts Berlin’s most varied crowd.QH‑5, Görlitzerstraße 1-3 (Görlitzer Park), Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 07 48 58, www.edelweiss36.com. Open 09:30-02:00. €€. T­U­E­B­W GOLGATHA The most gruesome end you’ll meet at this Biergarten at the southwest end of Viktoriapark is the sunrise. Those watching their melanoma sit under the red umbrellas near the table-football and grill, while sunbathers go to the rooftop for a view of the playground and

Amici Amici

50 Berlin In Your Pocket

football field. DJ music begins most nights at 22:00 inside on the small dance floor.QF‑5, Katzbachstraße (Viktoriapark), Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 785 24 53, www.golgatha-berlin.de. Open from 10:00. €. TUBSW

CAFÉS BELLE ALLIANCE COFFEE Fresh, seasonal food cooked in a modern, contemporary setting in Kreuzberg. The menu changes more or less every day, and there will always be something to take your fancy. Great coffee, cracking wines and an atmosphere as relaxed as they come. The team who run the place have done a fantastic job in creating a venue that does Berlin dining as it really ought to be.QF‑5, Merhingdamm 56, MU Merhingdamm, tel. +49 30 23 94 82 38. Open 10:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. P­T­V­B­S­W CAFÉ RIX A fabulous café that’s completely worth the trek out to Berlin’s shabbiest and most multicultural neighbourhood. Many entertainment halls were built in this part of town, attracting thousands of Berliners at weekends. Rix is one of the last remaining entertainment halls in the area, dating from 1880 and all gold twirls, high ceilings and big mirrors. It’s just perfect for sipping coffee and munching on cake, or for a well-prepared meal. Combine it with a concert at the adjacent Heimathafen or a visit to Rixdorf’s old village square and the lush Körnerpark. QKarl-Marx-Straße 141, Neukölln, MU Karl-MarxStraße, tel. +49 30 686 90 20, www.caferix.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TUNGBSW CAFÉ SAROTTI-HÖFE Lovely Kreuzberg café with a large terrace, a bistrorestaurant serving snacks and meals, and a bar with beers and cocktails. Drop by for coffee with a slice of cake from the brunch buffet (choose from 30 varieties). At Sunday brunchtime they switch on the chocolate fountain, filled with Sarotti chocolate of course, as this building was once their factory.QF‑5, Mehringdamm 53-57, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 60 03 16 80, www.cafesarottihoefe.de. Open 24hrs. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Kreuzberg Nightlife BARS DESTILLE KREUZBERG The kind of bar and pub that has been responsible for making Kreuzberg such a fantastic location. Serving great beer - there is a huge selection, including one of the best pints of Guinness in all Berlin - alongside 30-odd brandies and just about anything you want. There’s good pub food too, and the crowd which gathers here is as cosmopolitan and bohemian as you could wish for: builders rub shoulders with drag queens, Hollywood directors and football fans: this is a great place to watch live sports, amongst much else. QMehringdamm 67, MU Platz der Luftbrucke, tel. 30 692 51 24. Open 14:00-01:00. FREISCHWIMMER After a five-minute walk south of Schlesisches Tor, follow the bush-lined pathway left after the petrol station to this peaceful bar that hovers over a side canal. In summer use the comfy deck lounges; in cooler weather heat lamps help keep away the chill.QI‑5, Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 07 43 09, www.freischwimmer-berlin.de. Open Mo-Fri from 12:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. TUENGBW GALANDER A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF‑4, Grossbeerenstraße 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E WÜRGEENGEL Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuel’s film El Ángel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50 reasons to delay your departure. To round it all off, there are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH‑4, Dresdener Straße 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00. €€. B

CLUBS JUNCTION BAR Squeezing onto the bat-cave of a stage is fine for a fourman blues band, but dios mio for the ten-piece AfroCuban ensembles. Live music draws an ethnically and generationally mixed audience every night of the week. After the band, a DJ keeps everyone tight on the dance floor.QF‑5, Gneisenaustraße 18, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 66 02, www.junctionbar.de. Open 20:00-04:00. E­N­G­B facebook.com/InYourPocket

WATERGATE This club right on the edge of the Spree River is great for spying on Universal Music headquarters across the water, even if the crowd here would never dance to their pop artists. Also in view (and right next door) is the turreted Oberbaumbrücke, which makes an odd backdrop to techno, house, or any guest DJ on the upper or lower dance floors.QI‑4, Falckensteinstraße 49, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 28 03 94, www.watergate.de. Open Wed, Fri, Sat from 24:00. Admission €812. U­E­N­G­B WILD AT HEART Rock on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs for the stage area.QH‑5, Wiener Straße 20, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www. wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB

Sightseeing MUSEUMS DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM Not just one of Berlin’s best museums, this place is one of Europe’s top science attractions. It is unmistakably recognisable by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended high above the main building. Spread over a huge area, the Deutsches Technikmuseum is a vast complex set in and around an old freight station rail depot and has planes, trains, cars, bikes, computers, phones, radios and much, much more. Individual exhibitions cover every aspect of technology, from the founding of the printing press to space exploration. There are thousands of hands-on exhibits, and kids of all ages will love it. The highlight for us has always been the exhibition of 40 original trains and locomotives, on display at the former Anhalter Bahnhof station at the museum’s rear.QF‑4, Trebbiner Straße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40, www.sdtb.de/museum-of-technology/623/. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/4. Tickets also valid for the Spectrum Science Centre. FEUERLE COLLECTION A new private museum housed in a fantastic former telecommunications bunker restyled by UK architect John Pawson, showcasing Désiré Feuerle’s Southeast Asian art collection. This consists of both ancient artworks (think 7th century Khmer statues and Chinese lacquerware furniture) and contemporary art including photography and haunting minimal music by John Cage.QF‑4, Hallesches Ufer 70, Kreuzberg, MS Anhalter Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 25 79 23 20, www.thefeuerlecollection.org/wordpress. Open Fri 14:00-19:00, Sat & Sun 11:00-19:00 for prebooked tours. Admission €18/11. August – September 2018

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Kreuzberg HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE A homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks, tools, videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunnel-digging attest to necessity and desire being the mother of invention. Visit this museum for dramatic stories of separated lovers, freedom-seeking families, and fed-up senior citizens in the GDR who breached the Wall. The museum also has art interpreting the concrete division of the city, and an exhibit on human rights movements. QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 43-45, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 251 20 75, www.mauermuseum.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission €12,50/9,50. JÜDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many ways in which German life and Jewish history are intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’ for contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF‑4, Lindenstraße 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2,50, special exhibitions €4/2, combined ticket €7/3,50.

and discusses their organisation and the terror they cast across Europe. The most important lesson to take home is perhaps that these organisation only managed to thrive thanks to the continuous cooperation of many institutes and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF‑4, Niederkirchnerstraße 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission free.

PARKS & GARDENS GÖRLITZER PARK A lively 14-hectare park on the site of a railway station that was demolished after it was cut off from its destination by the Wall. The ‘Görli’ has fields, lakes, a petting zoo, the Edelweiss beer garden and a thriving trade in smokable flora. On a balmy afternoon, there’s no better place to be in Kreuzberg.QH/I‑5, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof.

MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this is the work of Martin Gropius, great uncle of Walter Gropius, a founder of the Bauhaus school of design. The building was completed in 1881 and originally served as a royal art museum. Like most of central Berlin, it ended the war in a badly damaged state and wasn’t re-opened until 1981. Today, under the auspices of the Berliner Festspiele, the Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts excellent touring exhibitions. QF‑4, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau. de. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. SPECTRUM SCIENCE CENTRE Kids will love this place, offering more than 150 handson exhibits and experiments spread over four floors of a glorious former old industrial building next to the Deutsches Technikmuseum. Why is the sky blue? Can you see heat? Any why does a plane stay up in the sky? These are just three of the hundreds of questions that you will able to have answered at the Science Centre. You can also learn how to play a laser guitar, although the hall of mirrors will probably the biggest delight of a visit here.QF‑4, Möckernstrasse 26, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 42 84, www.sdtb.de/spectrum/startseite/. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/4. Tickets also valid for the Deutsches Technikmuseum. TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars are all that remain of the palace housing the Reich Security (SS) Office. The fascinating exhibition in the trench and the adjacent pavilion and park uses models, texts and photos to highlight the topography of the Third Reich police, military and security groups that were headquartered in this area, 52 Berlin In Your Pocket

Viktoria Park

VIKTORIAPARK Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the corner of Kreuzbergstraße and Großbeerenstraße for an eyeful of the park’s waterfall, constructed in the late 19th century. Kids stripped to their knickers wade in between the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres above, people lean back against the graffiti-laden monument to take in the panoramic view. Towards the back of the park, past a playground and off the Bacci field, is the Golgotha beer garden. Running parallel to Kreuzbergstraße is a small petting zoo where children and goats get to meet and bleat.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm. berlin.inyourpocket.com


OPIUS BAU — GROPIUS BAU — GROPIUS BAU —

Gropius Bau Niederkirchnerstr. 7 10963 Berlin

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Image: Philippe Parreno, “Anywhen”, 2017 (film still) © Courtesy Philippe Parreno

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Neukölln

Britzer Garden | © Thomas Wolter, pixabay

So big is Berlin, so wide its expanse, that the average visitor sees just a tiny fraction of this amazing city. A collection it has been said many times before - of small towns and villages all with their own identity as opposed to a unified metropolis, Berlin is home to many wonderful unique districts which often go unexplored by the uninitiated. Every now and then, however, one of these inner-city ortsteil (as they are known in German) gets a chance to shine. Hard as it is to imagine now but Kreuzberg - now as hip and trendy and on-the-beaten-track as they come - was once given a wide berth by visitors to Berlin. The new Kreuzberg, and the latest ortsteil locals really don’t want you to find out about is Neukölln, south of the city centre, particularly the area bordered by Karl Marx Strasse, Flughafenstrasse and Hermanstrasse. Given a new lease of life in recent years by the same artists, students and migrants who once made Kreuzberg famous and diverse (but have now been forced out by fiercely climbing rents), Neukolln so resembles the Kreuzberg of a few years ago that Berliners have given it the nickname Kreuzkolln. Neukolln is first mentioned in 1360, as a ‘village south-east of Berlin’, centered around the present-day Richardplatz. Back then it was called Richardsdorf and owned by the Order of St. John; which explains why the coat of arms of the current district bears the Maltese cross. Legend has it that the Knights Templar themselves built a fortress here, where the district meets neighbouring Tempelhof (from whence the name, Tempelhof ). In 1737, King Frederick William I of Prussia allowed about 350 Moravian Protestants expelled from Bohemia to settle in the area, by then called Rixdorf. They built their 54 Berlin In Your Pocket

own church and houses off the village centre along the road to Berlin, today called Richardstraße. This new Bohemian village (Böhmisch Rixdorf ) was granted its own constitution in 1797. In the course of industrialization in the 19th century a network of new streets was laid out in the Hobrecht-Plan in an area that came to be known architecturally as the Wilhelmine Ring. In 1863 a Turkish cemetery was created north of Rixdorf, the successor of a smaller burial ground in Kreuzberg established in 1798 for the Turkish members of the Prussian Army. It contains the remains of the Ottoman ambassador Giritli Ali Aziz Efendi, the exiled Grand Vizier Mehmed Talat and Bahattin Şakir. No wonder Neukölln was one of the first districts of Berlin Turks headed for when many settled in the city in the 1960s. When both parts of the village were reunited in 1874, the place had a population of 8,000, and soon became the largest village in Prussia. Shortly afterwards it received the status of independent city and became notorious for its taverns and amusement sites. In 1912, in an early attempt at rebranding, the local authorities tried to clean up its reputation by adopting the current name, derived from the Cölln district of medieval Berlin - an attempt that ultimately failed. Even after being incorporated into Greater Berlin in 1920 Neukölln remained infamous for its decadence: the most decadent part of what at the time was perhaps the most decadent city in Europe. Part of the American sector of West Berlin from 19451990, in the late 1960s the enormous Gropiusstadt was built in the south of Neukolln. Dubbed rather unkindly a Trabantenstadt by critics this huge utilitarian housing berlin.inyourpocket.com


Neukölln estate, designed by Bauhaus architect Walter Gropius, does look rather more East Berlin than West. Rents here are relatively cheap however, and as such is home to many migrants: indeed, taken as a whole, of all Berlin’s districts modern Neukölln has the largest immigrant population in Berlin (at around 40 per cent) and is a lively, exciting melting pot of multicultural diversity. So much so in fact that Neukölln is one of the Council of Europe’s pilot intercultural cities. You will see the fact reflected in the area’s street food. Once known as Little Istanbul there are more kebab shops per square metre than anywhere else in Berlin. You can also find plenty of places to smoke some exotic tobacco from a narghila. All this alongside expensive restaurants, high-end cafes and artists studios: Neukölln is the new centre of creative Berlin. Get there now before everyone moves on again. Getting there: Take the U-bahn to Rathaus Neukölln, found in the heart of the main commercial area of Neukölln.

AMERICAN CABSLAM Cabslam meets Weltrestaurant Markthalle. Yep, Cabslam is short for California Breakfast Slam. So you can guess what’s on the menu before you even show up. Fine, fresh, California dining in a bright and breezy contemporary setting (recently renovated and looking better than ever). Alongside classic American - and German -staples, such as amazing burgers topped with New York pickles, you can also grab mac and cheese, fish tacos with spicy coleslaw, as

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well as surf and turf steak with Cajun shrimp. At weekends and on public holidays the badass brunch, as they call it, is a treat. And before we forget: this place is widely considered to serve the very best pancakes in Berlin.QInnstrasse 47, MU Rathaus Neukolln, tel. 030 686 9624, www.cabslam.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed.

ITALIAN CALIGARI A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez neighbourhood of Neukölln, with freshly made pasta, soups, salads and deserts. They’re planning Supper Club nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things could happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neukölln, tel. +49 30 52 64 98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00 - 23:00. HALLMANN & KLEE Coffee, cakes, breakfast and brunch in a wonderful setting in the heart of Neukölln.  The food is mainly Italian but there is a good range of dishes on the menu with enough choice to please just about everyone.  Prices can be a little high but in our experience the quality of food and service, from very friendly staff, makes it more than worth paying a little extra. And the location itself is amazing, a real  Neukölln  classic and one of the reasons the area is so impossibly hip these days.QBoehmische Strasse 13, MS Sonnenallee, tel. 030 23 93 81 86, www.hallmann-klee.de/. Open 09:3022:00, Sun 09:30-18:00, Closed Mon, Tue.

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Neukölln TEMPELHOF AIRPORT

CAFÉS

On Neukölln’s western borders is one of the most iconic places in all of Germany: the incomparable Tempelhof Airport. Made famous by the Berlin Airlift of 1948-49 the last flight took off from the airport in 2008. Saved from property developers (for the time being), since 2010 Tempelhof’s grounds and runways have been open to the public as a park, and there are guided tours of its terminal building.

LUX Named after the sunlight that streams in and illuminates the wooden furniture on good days, Lux is quiet and relaxed and serves excellent coffee from Kreuzberg’s Kiez Rösterei, homemade waffles and cake. Combine your visit with a walk across the Tempelhofer Feld park, or drop by on Saturdays to catch the Schillermarkt, right outside.QHerrfurthstrasse 9, Neukölln, MU1 Boddinstrasse, tel. 0173 7968442, www.cafelux.berlin. Open 08:30 - 19:30.

TEMPELHOF AIRPORT TERMINAL It is not an exaggeration to call the airport one of the most remarkable buildings in Europe. Architect Norman Foster has indeed gone as far as to call it ‘The Mother of All Airports,’ which in many ways it is. Way ahead of its time, Tempelhof served as something of a blueprint for a glut of airports built around the world when international travel first became accessible to ordinary people in the 1950s. Guided tours of the now empty, timewarp terminal building offer a unique insight into this majestic construction which, while often called ‘the Nazi airport’ did not in fact open until after the end of World War II. Neither was it designed by Albert Speer: it is the work of a Bavarian architect, Ernst Sagebiel. The airport first came to international prominence as a symbol of the Cold War, and of freedom, when it was the base for the mercy flights which kept West Berlin fed during the Berlin Airlift of 194849. Alas by the end of the 1960s its capacity had been exceeded and after Tegel Airport opened in 1975, most of Berlin’s air traffic relocated there. The last commercial flight took off from Tempelhof in 2008, despite the protests of locals who wanted it kept open. QPlatz der Luftbrucke, MU Platz der Luftbrucke, tel. +49 30 200 03 74 41, www.thf-berlin.de/fuehrungen/english-guided-tours. Tours in English are held every Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 13:30. Places can be booked online. Adults €15, students €10, children under 14 €7. TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT Where else can you run for five minutes with your eyes closed? Berlin’s most amazing space is this historic and wide open airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed in 2008 and was opened as a park in 2010. Now the runways and taxi lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters and kiteboarders; the fields around them are used by rare breeding skylarks (from April-July), picnickers, barbecuers, artists, kite-flyers, gardeners and dog-walkers. There’s even a Biergarten at the northern end. Note that turnstiles allow exit from the park after closing time as well. Also easily accessed from U-Bahn stations Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse. QF/G‑6, Columbiadamm, MS/U Tempelhof, www. tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open March 06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May & Aug 06:00-21:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00-19:00, Dec, Jan 07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00. Admission free. 56 Berlin In Your Pocket

BARS CODA DESSERT BAR The kind of place Neukolln has recently become known for, except here they have done it better than ever. A dessert bar? Yep, it is exactly what it says: a bar serving avant-garde, experimental desserts created by a top team of chefs. To get the best out of the place, go for the tasting menu, which offers six amazing taste sensations for €65. Pair it with six sepcially mixed drinks for an extra €33.QFriedelstrasse 47, Neukolln, MU Hermannplatz, tel. (+49) 30 914 963 96, www.coda-berlin.com. Open 19:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. P­B­S­W DAS GIFT Possibly the most quintessential Neukolln bar around. Artsy, hip, achingly trendy and yet perfectly welcoming to just about everyone, you will notice a Scottish theme: the owner is a Scot. Expect some food and drink to remind you of the Highlands, not the least of which is an almost unmatched selection of whiskies. Service is fabulous, and though prices are far from cheap, the crowd that thrings here loves the place, as do we.QDonaustrasse 119, dasgift.tumblr.com. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. P­B­S­W

MUSEUMS SCHLOSS BRITZ The Schloss Britz (Britz Castle) is the former manor-house of the historical country estate and village Britz, now a district of Berlin-Neukolln. Frederick I of Prussia gave the estate to his minister Samuel von Chwalkowski at the end of the Thirty Years War, and it was von Chwalkowski who had the schloss built. It was completed in 1706. The building, along with the grounds, have been national monuments since 1971, and today serve as the headquarters of the Kulturstiftung Schloss Britz and includes a museum showcasing the splendid interiors of the Gründerzeit era. The impeccable grounds include an old farmyard complete with stables. Both the building and grounds are well worth a visit, not least given how the entrance prices are a bargain.QAlt-Britz 73, Neukolln, MU Parchimer Allee, tel. (+49) 030 609 792 30. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. €3/€2. berlin.inyourpocket.com


City Tours

B ERLINER U NTERWELTEN E.V. Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture

Berlin from below Cold War and WW II bunker tours

Different tours every day • see: www.berliner-unterwelten.de Subway: Gesundbrunnen (U8), southern entrance-hall • Brunnenstraße 105 Anzeige in your pocketcorner 2011.indd1 1 though you’ll need There’s a story on every in Berlin, a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city and attractions are fairly far-flung, so plan your itinerary well. If you’re here for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings.

BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS BERLIN CITY TOUR Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about two hours; the green ones have live English commentary; red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfürstendamm 14, the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on or hop-off as you like. There’s also a narrated ‘Wall & Lifestyle’ tour taking in the main Wall sights

BERLIN UNDERWORLDS

and some trendy districts.Qtel. 15.01.2011 +49 30 686:58:28 30 26Uhr41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets €15/12/5. CITY CIRCLE BUSES Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours. Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen languages. Kurfürstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are the two main starting points, but you can get on and off at some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are Berliner Bären Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX Sightseeing (www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus Verkehr Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www.berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets €22/11. Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) €16,50/11. You can visit bunkers from the Nazi era on the Dark Worlds tour or on the Flaktower tour, take in civil defence and nuclear fall-out shelters from the Cold War in the Subways and Bunkers in the Cold War tour or hear the stories of the people who tunnelled to freedom in the Under the Berlin Wall tour.QF‑1, Brunnenstraße 105, Wedding, MS/U Gesundbrunnen, tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17, www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Tickets are available in the ticket- and bookshop at the south entrance of Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station. Tickets for the tours cost between €11 and €14 (with discount €9 - €11), as of 2018, €12 - €15 (disc. €10 - €12). Entrance to the Myth of Germania exhibition costs €6/€5 (€3 if bought in combination with a tour).

BERLINER UNTERWELTEN (UNDERWORLDS) Berliner Unterwelten (Berlin Underworlds) allow you to experience Berlin´s history from an unusual perspective, through its underground installations dating back to the Cold War, WWII or earlier. Besides the fascinating Myth of Germania exhibition about the Nazi´s plans for restructuring Berlin into the world´s capital (open Apr – Oct: Thu - Sun 11:00 – 18:00; Nov – Mar: Sat & Sun 11:00– 16:00), there are different subterranean tours available in German, English and several other languages. Many of them run all the year, not all tours in all languages are held every day. facebook.com/InYourPocket

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City Tours LINO CITY TOURS Cruise around Berlin’s main sights in style, seated in an open-top Piaggio Ape Calessino vehicle. Knowledgeable guides drive these cute Italian three-wheeled cars around the city, offering general one-hour highlights tours to longer tailor-made trips around Berlin’s most interesting suburbs. Call to book, or look for them on Pariser Platz near Brandenburger Tor.Qtel. +49 30 80 57 84 70, www.lino-city-tours.com. Tours from €25 per person.

WALKING & CYCLING TOURS ALTERNATIVE BERLIN TOURS After the 4-hour Real Berlin tour (daily at 12:00, €12) you’ll know all about Berlin’s subcultures, the graffiti and stencil art, street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the gay scene, and the squatter and anti-fascist movements. Knowledgeable resident artists poke at Berlin’s dark, fuzzy underbelly on a variety of walks; there are also free short walks (daily at 11:00 and 13:00), twilight tours, a street art workshop and an ‘anti-

BERLIN IN BOOKS: BERLIN CALLING Writer and journalist Paul Hockenos arrived wide-eyed in West Berlin the the 1980s, diving deep down in the enclosed city’s underground scene, befriending squatters and punks, witnessing the beginnings of techno house and watching the Wall come down (much to the horror of West Berlin’s insular inhabitants who in many ways were fine with their splendid isolation). In his 2017 book - subtitled ‘A Story of Anarchy, Music, the Wall, and the Birth of the New Berlin’ - Hockenos delves from personal experience, interviews and other sources to describe the immense influence Berlin’s rather small subcultures had on the development of both West and East Berlin, as well as on how they contributed in an essential way to the newly reunified city’s post-Wall attractivity. Placing great emphasis on the arrival of major influencers David Bowie and Iggy Pop in the 1970s, he tracks the creative class’s musical and political course over the following decades, with dramatic developments and even murder when it comes to confronting East Berlin’s right-wing scene. An impressive story that leaves the reader with an excellent overview of what made Berlin tick over the past few decades - and where it may go from here. “Berlin Calling”, by Paul Hockenos (The New Press, 2017, ISBN 9781620971956) is available for €26 at Dussmann and other major bookshops. 58 Berlin In Your Pocket

© picknick frunk

pubcrawl’.QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162 819 82 64, www.alternativeberlin.com. Tickets €10-20. BERLIN LOCALS Tailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by limo, lead by local German historians who can often relate historical events to their family’s personal experience. Tour themes range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich to street art, railways and architecture. The guides are also licenced for Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are in English or German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, info@ berlinlocals.com, www.berlinlocals.com. Tours €40 per hour, €250 per day. INBERLIN TOURS Specialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at fixed times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, info@inberlin.de, www.inberlin.de. Tickets €10-16. ISHERWOOD’S NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable ‘Sodom on the Spree’ with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous club and revue theatre scene - in explosive political circumstances. The young gay British writer Christopher Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye To Berlin (of Cabaret movie fame). This excellent one-hour tour through Isherwood’s Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is spiced up with quotes and references to notorious 1920s party-goers like Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich.QD‑4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42, brendan@10777tours.com, www.cabaret-berlin.com. Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand. Book ahead. Tickets €15. SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURS The Berlin blog dedicated to ‘slow travel’ offers quirky cultural-historical tours. In small groups you explore Berlin’s most fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in West Berlin, a walk on Kreuzberg’s wild west side, a trip along the Wall, down lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march through Kaiser Wilhelm’s Berlin.Qwww.slowtravelberlin. com/tours. Tickets €15. berlin.inyourpocket.com


River Tours After flowing a bucolic 400km from the Czech border region to Berlin, the river Spree goes out with a bang before disappearing into the Havel near Spandau. Cutting a curvy passage through Berlin, it provides tremendous views of the Dom cathedral, the Reichstag and the government district and the Berlin Wall near Ostbahnhof. Some of the Spree is diverted along park-lined canals, and Berlin has more bridges than Venice or Amsterdam.

APP

Short city centre cruise tours depart regularly from the boat landings near the Museumsinsel, Friedrichstraße, Hauptbahnhof station and the Haus der Kulturen der Welt in the park. The 3.5-hour Brücke (bridges) tours cruise past all the city centre sights, down Landwehrkanal and past the beautiful Oberbaumbrücke. Here we list your options with English narration. Sail away.

MS SCHIFFSKONTOR Rent an antique boat and sail just about anywhere on Berlin’s waterways. There’s the rustic open-top Oskar from 1930, or rent the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink beauty from 1950 in which you’ll look dashing with dark sunglasses and a flowing scarf.Qtel. +49 30 246 47 99 60, www.schiffskontor.de.

CHARTERTRIPS ON HISTORICAL BOATS

© aprilagentur.de

REEDEREI WINKLER Winkler’s one-hour Stadtrundfahrt tours depart up to 10 times daily from beside Friedrichstraße station. The 3-3.5 hour Spreefahrt river tours from Schlossbrücke in Charlottenburg take in the river beyond the city centre sights. There are evening departures too, and check the website for the special culinary and party cruises. QF‑3, Reichstagufer jetty, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 349 95 95, www. reedereiwinkler.de. Tickets: Stadtrundfahrt €12,50/1011,50, Spreefahrt €19-21,50/17-19,50. facebook.com/InYourPocket

... e.g. Moonlight-Trips with Aphrodite or Oskar 10245 Berlin-Stralau, near Tunnelstrasse 36 Tel. (030) 246 47 99 60 www.schiffskontor.de

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Directory & Street Register CULTURAL CENTRES

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

GOETHE-INSTITUT Where better to learn German and dive deep into German culture than in the very heart of the country’s capital? The Goethe-Institut Berlin is situated in the Berlin Mitte district, close to the Hackesche Höfe, the thriving cluster of courtyards bordered by offices, apartments, galleries, workshops, cafés and shopping. There are individual and group German classes for all levels, during the day, in the evening or at the weekend: there is bound to be a course to fit your schedule. But note that this place is far more than a language school. Tens of events every week will bring German culture to life via some amazing lectures, talks and tours.QNeue Schönhauser Straße 20, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 25 90 63, fax +49 30 25906-400, www.goethe.de/berlin.

USA American Citizen Services: tel. 832 92 33.QF-3, Pariser Platz 2, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 830 50, www.usembassy.de.

EMBASSIES

HOSPITALS

AUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstraße 76-79, Mitte, MU Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, www.australian-embassy.de.

BENJAMIN FRANKLIN CLINICAL CENTRE QKlingsorstraße, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel. +49 30 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de.

IRELAND QF-3, Jägerstraße 51, Mitte, MU Hausvogteiplatz, tel. +49 30 22 07 20, www.embassyofireland.de.

CHARITÉ UNIVERSITÄTSKLINIKUM QF-3, Schumannstraße 20-21, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 45 050, www.charite.de.

Ackerstraße F/G‑2 Adalbertstraße H‑4 Admiralstraße G/H‑5 Albrechtstraße F‑3 Alexanderplatz G‑3 Alexanderstraße G‑3 Alexanderufer F‑2/3 Alexandrinenstraße F‑4 Alt-Moabit C‑3/E‑3 Alte Jakobstraße F‑4 Alte Schönhauser Straße G‑2 Altonaer Straße D‑3 Am Friedrichshain H‑2 Am Karlsbad F‑4 Am Kupfergraben F‑3 Am Ostbahnhof H‑4 Anhalter Straße F‑4 Arndtstraße F‑5 Augsburger Straße C/D‑4 Auguststraße F/G‑2 Axel-Springer-Straße F‑4 Barnimstraße H‑2/3 Baruther Straße F‑5 Bayerischer Platz D‑5 Bebelplatz F‑3 Behrenstraße F‑3 Belforter Straße G/H‑2 Bergmannstraße F/G‑5 Bernauer Straße F/G‑1/2 Bethaniendamm H‑4 Beusselstraße C‑2 Bismarckstraße B/C‑3/4 Bleibtreustraße C‑4 Blücherstraße F/G‑5 Bodestraße F‑3 Bötzowstraße H/I‑2 Brandenburger Tor F‑3 Breitscheidplatz C‑4 Brückenstraße H‑3/4 Brunnenstraße F/G‑1/2 Bülowstraße E‑4/5 Bundesallee C‑4/6 Charlottenstraße F‑3/4 Chausseestraße F‑2 Choriner Straße G‑2 Christinenstraße G‑2 Danziger Straße G‑1/I‑2

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Dorotheenstraße F‑3 Dresdener Straße G‑4 Dunckerstraße H‑1 Ebertstraße F‑3 Engeldamm H‑4 Erkelenzdamm F‑4 Ernst-Reuter-Platz C‑3 Fasanenstraße C‑4/5 Fehrbelliner Straße G‑2 Fischerinsel G‑3 Französische Straße F‑3 Friedensstraße H‑2/3 Friedrichstraße F‑3/4 Gartenstraße F‑1/2 Gendarmenmarkt F‑3 Georgenkirchstraße H‑2/3 Georgenstraße F‑3 Gertraudenstraße G‑3 Geschw.-Scholl-Straße F‑3 Gipsstraße G‑2 Gitschiner Straße F‑4 Glinkastraße F‑3 Gneisenaustraße F/G‑5 Görlitzer Straße H/I‑4/5 Görlitzer Ufer I‑5 Gormannstraße G‑2 Greifswalder Straße H/I‑1/2 Grolmannstraße C‑4 Großbeerenstraße F‑5 Große Hamburger Straße G‑2/3 Gruner Straße G‑3 Hallesches Ufer F‑4 Hardenbergplatz C‑4 Heidestraße E‑2 Heinrich-Heine-Straße F‑4 Heinrichplatz H‑4 Hohenstaufenstraße D‑5 Immanuelkirchstraße H‑2 Invalidenstraße E‑3/G‑2 Johannisstraße F‑3 John-Foster-Dulles-Allee E‑3 Kaiserdamm A/B‑4 Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee B/C‑2 Kantstraße B/C‑4 Karl-Liebknecht-Straße G‑3 Karl-Marx-Allee G/H/I‑3 Kastanienallee G‑2

Emergencies, ambulance, fire tel. +49 30 112; Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31; Police tel. +49 30 110; Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64.

UNITED KINGDOM QF-3, Wilhelmstraße 70-71, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 45 70, www.britischebotschaft.de.

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r.


021-1-18.1-1


Index 893 Ryōtei 37 Admiralspalast11 Aigner22 Alexa Centre 32 Alpenstueck20 Alt Berliner Biersalon 38 Alte Nationalgalerie 28 Alternative Berlin Tours 58 Altes Museum 28 Altes Zollhaus 47 Amici Amici 49 Ankerklause48 Anna Blume 44 April34 asisi Panorama Berlin 30 Astro-bar41 Aufsturz24 August Fengler 44 Austria48 Barcomi's Deli 24 Belle Alliance Coffee 50 Bergmann Curry 48 Berlin City Tour 57 Berliner Dom 29 Berliner Fernsehturm 26 Berliner Golf Club Gatow 10 Berliner Golf- und Country Club Motzener See 10 Berliner Unterwelten 57 Berlin Locals 58 Black Box Cold War 30 Borchardt22 Brecht Keller 22 Bröhan Museum 39 Cabslam55 Café am Neuen See 37 Café im Literaturhaus 37 Café Istoria 43 Cafe Kalwil 38 Café Rix 50 Café Sarotti-Höfe 50 Caligari 49, 55 Chan48 City Circle Buses 57 C/O Berlin 39 Cocolo24 Coda Dessert Bar 56 Computerspielemuseum41 Crack Bellmer 41 Curry 36 48 Das Edelweiss 50 Das Gift 56 Der Mauerwinzer 25 Destille Kreuzberg 51 Deutscher Dom 29 Deutsches Currywurst Museum30 Deutsches Historisches Museum30 Deutsches Technikmuseum51 Diekmann36 Die Schule 43

66 Berlin In Your Pocket

Dressler36 Duke37 Dussmann32 Einhorn37 El Dorado 37 English Theatre Berlin 12 Eschschloraque Rümschrümp 25 Facil22 Feuerle Collection 51 First Floor 36 Fischers Fritz 22 Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 45 Französischer Dom 29 Freiluftkino Friedrichshain 18 Freiluftkino Hasenheide 18 Freiluftkino Insel in the Cassiopeia18 Freiluftkino Kreuzberg 18 Freischwimmer51 Führerbunker29 Gaffel Haus 20 Galander51 Geburtstagsklub44 Gedächtniskirche39 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer 31 Gemäldegalerie31 Glück To Go 48 Golf Berlin Mitte 10 Golfclub Kallin 10 Golf Club Pankow Berlin 10 Golfclub Prenden 10 Golfclub Stolperheide 10 Golf in Wall 10 Golf & Spa Resort Schloss Wilkendorf10 Golf- und Land-Club BerlinWannsee10 Golgatha50 Gorgonzola Club 49 Görlitzer Park 52 Grand Hyatt 32 Green Door 38 Grenander Morning Glory 38 Grosz36 Grüner Salon 25 Gudrun Sjödén 32 Gugelhof43 Hallmann & Klee 55 Hamburger Bahnhof 31 Hard Rock Cafe 35 Haus am Checkpoint Charlie52 Hefner38 Henne47 Hohmann Golf 10 Honigmond & Garden Hotels 32 Hoppetosse49 House of Weekend 25 InBerlin Tours 58 Isherwood's Neighbourhood

Tour58 Jolly21 Jüdisches Museum Berlin 52 Junction Bar 51 Kaffee Burger 25 Kamala21 Keule40 Kilkenny Irish Pub 26 Kinnaree Thai 48 Knese34 Komische Oper 11 Konnopke's Imbiß 43 Konzerthaus Berlin 11 Kookaburra Comedy Club 12 Kulturbrauerei45 Le Petit Royal 36 Lindenwirtin34 Lino City Tours 58 Little Big City 26 Locanda37 Lutter & Wegner 22 Lux56 Macondo41 Marriott32 Martin-Gropius-Bau52 Mauerpark45 Maximilians20 Mein Haus am See 25 Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe 30 MeMu Menschen Museum 31 Metzer Eck 43 Mommsen-Eck38 MS Schiffskontor 59 Museum für Asiatische Kunst 39 Museum für Film und Fernsehen32 Museum für Naturkunde 32 Mutter Hoppe 20 Myer’s Hotel Berlin 42 Neues Museum 28 Neue Synagoge 28 Nikolaiviertel28 Nola's am Weinberg 23 Olympic Stadium 39 Osteria N°1 50 Otito22 Ottenthal35 Pagode48 Panorama Café 21 Panoramapunkt29 Paris-Moskau22 Patio23 Pergamon Museum 28 Pizzeria i Due Forni 44 Potsdamer Platz 28 Quatsch Comedy Club 12 Reederei Winkler 59 Reichstag28 Reingold25 Reinhard's23

Renger-Patzsch34 Restaurant Schlossgarten 34 Restauration 1900 43 Riehmers47 Roter Salon 26 Rotisserie Weingrün 20 Sachiko Sushi 37 Sammlung Boros 32 San Diego Steakhouse 41 Santiago44 Sarod's48 Schall und Rauch 44 Schloss Britz 56 Schloss Charlottenburg 39 Schneeweiß40 Schnitzelei35 Schöneberger Weltlaterne 34 Schwarzwaldstuben20 Shakespeare & Sons 45 Slow Travel Berlin Tours 58 Soda Club 44 Spectrum Science Centre 52 Sphere21 Spielbank Berlin 25 Sporting Club Berlin Scharmützelsee10 Staatsoper im Schillertheater 11 Ständige Vertretung 20 Suksan35 Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm44 tausche Taschen 45 Tempelhof Airport Terminal56 Tempelhofer Freiheit 56 The Digital Eatery 24 The Harp 39 Tipi am Kanzleramt 12 Topographie des Terrors 52 Traube23 Union Jack 39 Van Long 22 Van Loon 49 Viktoriapark52 VOX23 Watergate51 Weihenstephaner20 Weinstein44 What do you fancy love? 38 Wild at Heart 51 Wintergarten Variété 12 Wohnzimmer44 Würgeengel51 Yosoy Tapas-Bar 24 Zillemarkt 35, 38 Zille-Stube21 Zimmermeister Brunzel's Mietshaus45 Zollpackhof24 Zum Nussbaum 21 Zur Letzten Instanz 21 Zwiebelfisch38 Zwölf Apostel 37

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Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei! Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei! Info and tickets at cinestar.de

Berlin In Your Pocket  

Essential, locally produced city guide to the capital of Germany, with hotel, restaurant, bar and club reviews as well as sightseeing and ev...

Berlin In Your Pocket  

Essential, locally produced city guide to the capital of Germany, with hotel, restaurant, bar and club reviews as well as sightseeing and ev...

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