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Berlin December 2016 - January 2017

Glühwein time

Enjoy Berlin’s Christmas markets

Berlin’s sports teams

Eisbären ice hockey & more

inyourpocket.com N°84 - €1.75


Gerhard Richter, Betty (Edition 23/25), 1991, Offsetdruck auf Karton, 97,1 x 66,2 cm Sammlung Olbricht Š Atelier Gerhard Richter

Martin-Gropius-Bau Berliner Festspiele

Wednesday to Monday 10 AM – 7 PM closed Tuesdays Open on public holidays closed on 24/12 und 31/12 #ErinnerungenEinerNation #MemoriesOfaNation

www.gropiusbau.de


Contents

Transport

5

Getting around by S&U

Basics

6

Essential travel tips

Sports in Berlin

8

All about Berlin’s top teams

Christmas in Berlin 10 Glühwein and Christmas markets

Galleries & Exhibitions 11 Art special

Culture & Events 12

© Benkrut | Dreamstime.com

Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema

Berlin Charlottenburg & The West

Berlin Mitte

Genteel western Berlin

20

The delights of the city centre

Berlin Friedrichshain

32 41

Worker’s paradise, student’s playground

SYMBOL KEY

Berlin Prenzlauer Berg

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

Berlin Kreuzberg

V Home delivery

E Live music

Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters

N No credit cards

M Nearest S/U-Bahn station

B Outside seating

G Non-smoking room

S Take away

R Internet

W Wi-Fi Additional symbols for hotels

City Tours

57

Wellness

59

Spas and Swimming pools

A Credit cards accepted

Directory & Street register

L Guarded parking

H Conference facilities

Maps & Index

F Fitness centre

K Restaurant

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

City map Public transport map Index

€€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person. €€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person. €€ Middling; from €10-20 per person. € Cheap; less than €10 per person. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

48

Guided walks, bike rides and drives

P Air conditioning

Dinner price guide The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level based on a main course with a glass of wine.

44

The gentrified north

60 61-63 64-65 66

BERLIN BOXES Scattered throughout the guide you’ll find boxes with more information about these topics: Erasmus Student Network West Berlin Revival

6 37

December 2016 - January 2017

3


Foreword The air may be frosty, Berlin’s wintertime attractions are hotter than ever. The city has been attracting increasing numbers of visitors to its many Christmas markets, New Year’s events, concerts, shopping and exhibitions. There’s truly something for everyone on a trip to the German capital; this season don’t miss the excellent German history exhibition at the Gropius-Bau, the new shows at the Admiralspalast – or a dip into one of the steamy spas!

Publisher In Your Pocket GmbH Axel-Springer-Straße 39 10969 Berlin Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81 Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50 germany@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1611-9037 Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin. Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly The public transport map is used under license no. BVG‑0079.11.

Whatever you do this winter, stay toasty warm and remember to let us know your tips and comments at berlin@inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Berlin.

Editorial Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krüger, Christina Knight Research Cecilia Engvall; Layout Tomáš Haman Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG) Maps Kartographie Eichner Cover © Totalpics | Dreamstime.com

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Sales & Circulation General Manager Stephan Krämer Production Manager Philippe Krüger Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt Advertising Managers Philippe Krüger, CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de)

COVER STORY Berlin’s landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 original city gates. While hordes of tourists gape below, goddess of victory Nike drives the fourhorsepower chariot atop the gate. Berliners celebrated the Wall’s fall in 1989 by standing on it in front of the gate, so don’t miss it - see more on p.26.

Copyright notice & Editor’s note Text, photos and maps (unless otherwise stated) copyright In Your Pocket GmbH. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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4 Berlin In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring only handpicked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend. The app - available on both iOS and Android - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone to download it. To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). berlin.inyourpocket.com


Transport Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great empty vastness of northeast Germany, it’s very well connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn and air. Once in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had such good public transport.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Berlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn, underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just remember the number or colour and end station of the line you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like stations like a local. Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights, with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights. Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train services. Vending machines have instructions in English and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport. With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,70, ABC €3,30) you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier-FahrtenKarte, €9). Buy a €1,70 Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning; €7,00) or the seven-day pass (€30,00). Groups of up to five people are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €17,30). The multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (€19,5042,00) is valid for transport and some attractions. Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll be fined €60 on the spot. BVG The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www.bvg.de/en/Service.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, info@bvg.de, www.bvg.de/en.

TAXIS Berlin’s friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre is €3,40; then up to 7km it’s €1,79/km, thereafter €1,28/km. Waiting costs €25/ hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke tarriff; €4 for 2km. By the way, Funk means radio. CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de. FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, www.taxifunkberlin.de. TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de. WBT FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, www.funk-taxi-berlin.de. WÜRFEL-FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 01 01, www.wuerfelfunk.de.

CYCLING As long as it’s dry, getting around Berlin is really best done by bicycle. It’s a flat city, there are plenty of cycle paths and wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you fined, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town may take a while, though for €1,60 you can take your bike on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental places, most charging €10-12 per day. The urban bike trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-traffic and cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.

CITY CARDS Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning to travel around town a lot and see more than one museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students and youths may get better reductions at museums using their student ID cards. BERLIN WELCOMECARD The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours, etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes Potsdam and Schönefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48 hours (AB €19,50, ABC €21,50), 72 hours (€27,50/29,50), and 4 (€31,50/34,50), 5 (€35,50/40,50) or 6 days (€41,50/45,50). There’s also a 72-hour variety (€42/44) that includes free admission to the five Museumsinsel museums. Cards are sold online and from BVG ticket machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels and kiosks. The similar Berlin CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.com) is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club discounts geared towards younger travellers; a 48-hour ticket costs €17,50 for AB, €19,50 for ABC, and there are also 72 hours, 4, 5, and 6-day tickets.Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de. MUSEUM PASS BERLIN 50 museums, including the permanent collections of the Staatliche Museen (state museums), can be visited with the Berlin Museum Pass (€24/12, valid three days). It’s for sale at the museums, tourism offices and online. Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de. December 2016 - January 2017

5


Basics BASIC DATA Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725 Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km. The Spree is 403km. Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m Highest natural point of Berlin: Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m Berlin’s territory: 900 square kilometers

CRIME & SAFETY Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty crimes are low compared to other Western European capitals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walking in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom occur in Berlin’s touristed central areas.

ELECTRICITY Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and many hotels will have them at the front desk too.

ERASMUS STUDENT NETWORK How do international students get to meet locals and the city during an academic exchange? The best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network (ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student associations in Europe. It was developed to help internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36 countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam. 6 Berlin In Your Pocket

MONEY Germany uses the euro (€). Banknotes come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, whose design depends on in which country they were minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents and €1 and €2. Credit and debit card payment is possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife venues, though always have cash on you for small payments just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process. Exchange offices can be found at the major train stations.

VISAS AND ENTRY FORMALITIES EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though registration at a Bürgeramt office is officially required for stays more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90 days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply for a German visa in advance. Note that there’s no passport control between Germany and the other 14 European ‘Schengen’ countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.

CLIMATE 30

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Rainfall (mm)

Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately Berlin’s local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weiße, is only really palatable ‘mit Schuss’, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (‘kloob mah-tea’) ice tea, made with extract of the South American maté plant, caffeine and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to just below the top label and top it up with wodka).

Temperature °C

DRINKS & ALCOHOL

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Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug

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Berlin Districts Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, you’re still left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners often find everything they need. Public transportation is far-reaching and effective though, and you’ll grow to love it as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights: Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg.

MITTE (MI) Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel, whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. It’s on these streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery to sidewalk café, pointing out directions to tourists seeking out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass deportations of the Nazi era.

CHARLOTTENBURG (CB) If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets, crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin. Much of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the 1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufürstendamm, Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting becomes more genteel where you can’t see the buildings for the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I.

TIERGARTEN (TG) Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare park that began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around the Siegessäule (Victory Column). Slicing though the park’s length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl.

KREUZBERG (KB) Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

© dreamstime.com

room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987 social and economic frustration exploded into violence and vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May 1st is essentially Kreuzberg’s way of reliving its 15 minutes of fame. The rest of the days are marked by backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting on the Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular drags Oranienstr. and Bergmannstr. Two major museums, the House at Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum, are planted in the staid parts of the district.

PRENZLAUER BERG (PB) On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old working-class district in the former East Berlin that came through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and along Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.). Prenzlauer Berg’s few attractions include the Vitra Design museum and a 19th-century brewery complex that is now the Kulturbrauerei culture centre. A good time to visit is Saturday when the eco-market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or Sunday when everyone sits outside being cool and eating breakfast all day.

FURTHER AFIELD Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife scene are Schöneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of Zehlendorf (ZD). December 2016 - January 2017

7


Sports in Berlin

Eisbären Berlin

© City Press GmbH

Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports - the city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing five exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union play football, the Eisbären is an ace ice hockey team, Alba is Berlin’s renowned basketball club, the Füchse play handball, and volleyball is taken care of by the BR Volleys. Their home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlin’s stadiums; last season alone 2,4 million tickets were sold for their events. In addition to this, Berlin’s streets regularly host huge sports events such as the public viewing festivals during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts countless amateur sports matches. Despite being rivals, Berlin’s six professional sports collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional sports in Berlin, promoting Berlin’s image as an international sports event destination. ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL) Also known as the Albatrosse, Berlin’s basketball club is Germany’s most successful, and has the largest fanbase; home matches easily attract 10,000 spectators. Since going pro in 1991, Alba has won the German League 8 times and the German Cup 7 times, and was also the first German team to win an international title. Alba started the new season well with its young new Turkish coach Ahmet Caki, several newcomers and captain Dragan Milosavljevic. 11 Dec, 15:30 : Eisbären Bremerhaven 26 Dec, 15:30: Rasta Vechta 29 Dec, 18:00: EWE Baskets Oldenburg 22 Dec, 15:30: Basketball Löwen Braunschweig 29 Dec, 15:30: Gießen 46ers QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets €8-65. 8 Berlin In Your Pocket

The home matches of Berlin’s pro teams are easy to visit: you don’t need to understand German to be able to follow a match and unlike in other European countries, sports matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning it’s no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium for an afternoon or evening of fun. Finding out about which matches are playing where can be problematic for visitors however as the club websites are not all available in English, and some make it difficult to find the upcoming playing dates. In the club details here we have listed all home matches for the following months, though always keep an eye on the club websites for changes or additional matches. Berlin’s official English-language sports website www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about all the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site www.eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches. Enjoy cheering for Berlin! Eisbären Berlin Berliners are rightly proud of their professional icehockey team, Eisbären Berlin, or ‘polar bears’. Founded in 1953 it was already very succesful in the GDR before winning the national Deutsche Eishockey Liga no less than 7 times since 1990, more than any other team. Although the team is refinding its strength, hopes are high for the German League though and they’re the easiest Berlin team to see this season, with plenty of home matches.

BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL) Berlin’s professional volleyball team originates in the western district of Charlottenburg, but plays home matches at the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR Volleys have been particularly successful since the late 1990s, winning the German Bundesliga title five times. The unbeatable team won everything they could last season and have already started the new season with some stellar performances. 3 Dec, 18:30: United Volleys RheinMain 6 Dec, 19:30: Cucine Lube Civitanova 18 Dec, 14:30: VfB Friedrichshafen 8 Jan, 16:00: TV Ingersoll Bühl 22 Jan, 16:00: Netzhoppers KW 29 Jan, TBA: VfB Friedrichshafen QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www.berlin-recycling-volleys.de. Tickets €13-16. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Sports in Berlin EISBÄREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY) Originating in 1953 in East Germany’s Dynamo sports club, the ‘polar bears’ are Berlin’s popular professional ice hockey team. They won the national league 7 times, have also bagged the European Trophy. Their home matches at the MercedesBenz-Arena are true familyfests, with a festive, goodhumoured atmosphere. Striker Marcel Noebel is still in rehab but back on his skates again after tearing his knee ligaments, and as promised, Kyle Wilson brings his experience to the team, though Canadian Nicholas Petersen is the top scorer at the moment. 4 Dec, 16:45: Fischtown Pinguins Bremerhaven 9 Dec, 19:30: Grizzlys Wolfsburg 18 Dec, 19:00:Thomas Sabo Ice Tigers 23 Dec, 19:30: Grizzlys Wolfsburg 28 Dec, 19:30: Krefeld Pinguine 3 Jan, 19:30: Augsburger Panther 6 Jan, 19:30: Kölner Haie 20 Jan, 19:30: Adler Mannheim 24 Jan, 19:30: Düsseldorfer EG 27 Jan, 19:30: EHC Red Bull München 31 Jan, 19:30: Schwenninger Wild Wings QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets €14-45.

FÜCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL) “The foxes’, Berlin’s handball team, is part of an old West Berlin sports club, and now plays home matches in Prenzlauer Berg’s Max-Schmeling-Halle, named after the boxing legend who was world champion heavyweight between 1930-32. While winning the European Cup at home, the team had a great chance to integrate their new players Steffen Fäth and Kresimir Kozina. So far this season, the team around goalie Silvio Heinevetter are in 4th place. 7 Dec, 20:15: MT Melsungen 11 Dec, 15:00: TBV Lemgo 21 Dec, 19:00: Frisch Auf Göppingen 26 Dec, 15:00: HSC Coburg QG‑1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 30 44 30, www.fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets €12-50.

HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)

FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)

Nicknamed Eisern Union (iron union), FC Union is the working man’s football team for Berlin, originating in East Berlin in 1966 and a feared counterpart for the GDR’s state-influenced Dynamo club. Union is still fiercely independent, based in their charming An der Alten Försterei stadium. The club has resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem sung by punkrock legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium partly owned by passionate fans. 5 Dec, 20:15: TSV Eintracht Braunschweig 16 Dec, 18:30: SpVgg Greuther Fürth 27 Jan 18.30: VfL Bochum QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten Försterei), Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656 68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets €14-43. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Berlin’s main football team plays home matches at the impressive Olympiastadion, Germany’s second largest stadium, built for the 1936 Olympic Games and renovated for the 2006 World Cup. Hertha was founded back in 1892 and is know as the ‘Alte Dame’, the old lady, witnessing its glory years between 1926 and 1931. Hertha started off very well this season, with plenty of substitution options for coach Pal Dardai, though the team is very reliant on striker Vedad Ibisevic; we hope he stays in shape! 10 Dec, 18:30: SV Werder Bremen 21 Dec, 20:00: SV Darmstadt 98 QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion), Charlottenburg, MS Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets €15-89.

All the latest news facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017

9


Christmas in Berlin CHRISTMAS GARDEN

Christmas Eco-market on Sophienstrasse

Berlin’s many outdoor Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmärkte) bustle with both tourists and locals. There’s music, food, drinks and great gift shopping, as the markets offer mainly handicrafts and decorations such as the popular wooden trinkets from the Erzgebirge mountains. Berlin has about 60 Christmas markets for you to enjoy. The most picturesque ones are on Gendarmenmarkt (21 Nov - 31 Dec, open 11:00-22:00, 24 Dec until 18:00, New Years Eve until 19:00, admission €1), the Nostalgischer Weihnachtsmarkt am Opernpalais off Unter den Linden (see below) and – more to the west - the atmospheric market in Spandau’s old town (23 Nov - 23 Dec, Sun-Thu 11:00-20:00, Fri & Sat 11:00-22:00. There‘s a huge ‘winter world’ at Potsdamer Platz (market 21 Nov - 26 December, open 10:00-22:00, 24 Dec until 14:00, winterworld

21st Environment and Christmas Market Sophienstraße 2016 Sophisticated items at a magical illuminated Christmas fair near the gallery quarter

Access fro m Rosentha ler Straße or through H ackesche Höfe, (Hof VI)

In 2013, London’s famous Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew started lighting up the greenhouses and plants at night around Christmas, enchanting thousands of visitors. This year, as an alternative to the crowded Christmas markets, Berlin’s grand Botanischer Garten will also be open every night from 17 November to 1 January, treating visitors to a spectacular winters walk through wonderfully lit foliage and greenhouses. The 1,5km-long route winds its way inside and outside, past millions of lightpoints and hundreds of illuminations and 3D figures themed after Christmas and botany. CHRISTMAS GARDEN BERLIN, Botanischer Garten, Königin-Luise-Straße 6-8, S Botanischer Garten. 17 Nov - 1 Jan 17:00 - 23:00, closed 24 & 31 Dec. Admission €17-19, www.christmas-garden.de. attractions open until 1 January), and the lovely traditional Rixdorf market in Neukölln (Richardplatz, 2-4 Dec, Fri 17:00-21:00, Sat 14:00-21:00, and Sun 14:00-20:00). CHRISTMAS ECO-MARKET SOPHIENSTRASSE In Mitte’s designer and gallery district, the‘eco-friendly’Christmas market takes place on Sophienstrasse, one of Berlin’s most beautiful streets. Stands sell all manner of useful, eco-friendly and unusual Christmas gifts, of German or fair-trade origin. The market is kept stylish and low-key, and a limited but fine selection of food stands offers crepes, organic Bratwurst, raclette and Glühwein. There’s live music, performers, angels, and Santa drops by every day for the children.QSophienstraße, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, www.weihnachtsmarktsophienstrasse.de. Open 2016: 26-27 Nov & 3-4, 10-11, 17-18 Dec; Sat 12:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-19:00. Admission free. NOSTALGIC CHRISTMAS MARKET This year, the charming ‘Nostalgischer Weihnachtsmarkt’ takes place near Bebelplatz in Berlin‘s historical centre, around the domed St. Hedwigs-Kathedrale. This popular market has 150 stands with gifts, and artisans at work. Traditional food and drinks are available, and children can enjoy special punch and the Christmas crib with live animals. QBebelplatz, Mitte, www.berliner-weihnacht.de. 24 Nov - 27 Dec 2016. Open 12:00-21:30, 24 Dec closed. Admission free.

HOLIDAY OPENING TIMES

On the ds en 4 week ent of Adv

0–20:00 Sat 12:0 –19:00 0 Sun 11:0

www.weihnachtsmarkt-sophienstrasse.de

10 Berlin In Your Pocket

Many larger stores and malls will open on the Sundays (from 13:00-20:00) leading up to Christmas and remain open till late at night on weekdays. Museums are largely open during the holidays. The Hauptbahnhof tourist office is open daily during the holidays, but may close earlier on the 24th. Public transport operates as on Sundays on 25 Dec and 1 Jan, and has extra services running throughout the night on New Years’ Eve. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Galleries & Exhibitions

Graffiti on Berlin’s East Side Gallery

Berlin’s museum and gallery world is constantly in flux, and perhaps now more than ever. Several large museums are closed for lengthy renovations that will last until the end of the decade, and the contemporary art scene is on the move, with artists fleeing the rising rents in the Mitte district for atelier space in outlying districts and galleries regrouping in new cultural nodes like Potsdamer Strasse. On this page we highlight a few of Berlin’s many excellent galleries and exhibitions. BERLINISCHE GALERIE This museum for modern art, photography, architecture, and artist archives concentrates a century worth of creativity forged in Berlin between 1880 and 1980. Artists represent the Secession, Expressionist, Dada, New Objectivity movements, and those representing the divided city. Giants of German art include Heinrich Zille, Otto Dix, George Grosz, Hannah Höch and Wolf Vostell.QG‑4, Alte Jakobstraße 124-128, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00, www.berlinischegalerie.de. C/O BERLIN Recently rehoused in the historical Amerika-Haus near Zoologischer Garten, the C/O gallery presents changing exhibitions of fantastic photography. The current exhibitions of protest photos by Gordon Parks and conflict photography by Broomberg & Chanarin are well worth seeing. QHardenbergstr. 22-24, tel. +49 30 284 44 16 62, www.co-berlin.org. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

SLOW PHOTOGRAPHY BERLIN Ukrainian artist Oleg Farynyuk photographs subjects using old techniques, especially the wetplate method which was invented in 1851 and was the first time photos could be shot with short exposure times. At the gallery and shop you can view the resulting high-quality photos, and have one made. QSlow Photography Berlin, Christinenstr. 15, tel. +49 152 17 55 00 74, www.slow-photography-berlin.com. SAMMLUNG BOROS A former bunker holds the private art gallery of advertising executive Christian Boros and his wife, who live on top of the absurd structure. It’s full of wonderful contemporary art, including a tree by Ai Wei Wei and a runaway popcorn machine that is slowly filling up a room. Tours only, book well in advance. QReinhardstraße 20, tel. +49 30 27 59 40 65, www.sammlung-boros.de. KÖNIG GALERIE, ST. AGNES A strikingly brutalist 1967 church in Kreuzberg has been transformed into a modern art gallery for Johann König, the bare concrete walls forming the perfect background for though-provoking art. QSt Agnes, Alexandrinenstraße 118-121, tel. +49 30 26 10 30 80, www.johannkoenig.de. December 2016 - January 2017

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Culture & Events VENUE LIST BERLIN CT – COLUMBIA THEATER, Columbiadamm 9-11, tel. +49 30 69 81 75 84, www.columbia-theater.de. FP – FRIEDRICHSTADTPALAST, Friedrichstraße 107, tel. +49 30 23262326, www.friedrichstadtpalast.de. HB – HAMBURGER BAHNHOF MUSEUM, Invalidenstraße 50-51, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. HN – HEIMATHAFEN NEUKÖLLN, Karl-MarxStraße 141, tel. +49 30 56 82 13 33, www.heimathafen-neukoelln.de. MA – MERCEDES-BENZ ARENA, Mercedes-Platz 1, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 99, www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de MG – MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de. MK – MUSEUM FÜR KOMMUNIKATION, Leipziger Straße 16, tel. +49 30 20 29 40, www.museumsstiftung.de. PH – PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

EVENT TICKETS Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel concierges, at ticket offices (also in major department stores) and online. EVENTIM An online booking service with event tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49 180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de. HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also at Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 13, Mitte.QC‑4, Hardenbergstraße 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket. de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. KOKA 36 Kreuzberg’s Konzertkasse has tickets in their shop and online (German only), for mailing and pickup.QH‑4, Oranienstraße 29, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36. de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-language service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs. papagena.de. 12 Berlin In Your Pocket

Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets - and an annual cultural budget of over €900 million to fund it all. Sports lovers can choose from a wide variety of matches played year-round.

OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN West Berlin’s 2000-seat opera building with its excellent acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances. Originally opened in 1912 as the modern, ‘democratic’ counterpart to the royal opera house on Unter den Linden, it has a reputation for modern works and underrepresented composers. Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB‑3, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de/en_EN. Tickets from €16. KOMISCHE OPER Starting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the building’s monumental neo-baroque main hall survived wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF‑3, Behrenstraße 55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets €9-150. KONZERTHAUS BERLIN Together with the Deutscher and Französischer Dom churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacular architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821, it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays at the venue.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.de. Tickets €10-99. STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER The venue for Daniel Barenboim’s award-winning Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on Unter den Linden are completed.QC‑3, Bismarckstraße 110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets €14-220.

SHOWS ADMIRALSPALAST This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret, operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlin’s roaring 20s. Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private box so that he could watch his favourite operetta ‘The Merry Widow’, and Brecht tried out his new theatre here from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on plays, concerts and musicals. QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets €21-79. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events ASK THE CONCIERGE

S U I TA B L E F O R I N T E R N AT I O N A L V I S I T O R S

Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you about current events, book tickets, make restaurant reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels of their jackets.

MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU: GERMANY - MEMORIES OF A NATION 600 years of German history in 200 objects, beginning and ending in Wall-year 1989. Perhaps only the British can come up with such a simple and effective concept, and indeed the exhibition The British View: Germany - Memories of a Nation was a huge success when it opened in London’s British Museum, accompanied by the amazing book and podcasts by initiator Neil MacGregor. The objects illustrating the momories of the newly unified Germany tell stories of great German achievements from a British perspective, of printing and porcelain, of philosophers, poets and artists, and of historical events that have shaped the face of Germany today, including that most terrible memory of all, the Holocaust. Ernst Barlach’s impressive 1926 floating bronze sculpture is an amazing WW1 memorial, the recreated Buchenwald concentration camp gate symbolises Germany’s darkest years while Georg Baselitz’s 1977 Eagle etching reflects on the fragility of ideals.

80‘S HITS & ACROBATICS The eighties were a glitzy time. The new Wintergarten Show combines outstanding acrobatics with the soundtrack of a whole generation – backed by a passionate live band and grandiose singers. Relax – please do it!

Till 19 February 2017 Tickets from € 32,00*

© Stiftung Schleswig-Holsteinische Landesmuseen Schloss Gottorf

MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstr. 7, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, S/U Potsdamer Platz, www.gropiusbau.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Tues closed. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Potsdamer Straße 96 · D-10785 Berlin Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 www.wintergarten-berlin.de *Prices plus advance booking fee and € 2,00 system fee/ticket

December 2016 - January 2017

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Culture & Events CINEMAS Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled films; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU (original version with German/English subtitles) and OF or OV (original version); DF means German version. ADRIA The film Berlin, wie es war, black and white footage of old Berlin, in German, screens every Sunday at 11:30. QSchloßstraße 48, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel. +49 180 505 07 11, www.cineplex.de. Tickets €7,40-9,40.

What’s going on? facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket BLUE MAN GROUP The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as it has little spoken German, and now has been thoroughly revamped, with many new sketches and elements.QE‑4, Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows Tue - Fri 20:00; Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets from €59,90.

BABYLON MITTE A 1920s filmhouse with a great program, but beware of dubbed films. The building itself is a example of New Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent films accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG‑2, RosaLuxemburg-Straße 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de. Tickets €7.

FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST No one does over-the-top better than the producers and long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast. This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest revues in town.QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 107, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.showpalace.eu. Tickets €18-106.

CENTRAL KINO Art-house films and mini film fests take place in this small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a scruffy courtyard.QG‑2, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73, www.kino-central.de. Tickets €6,50, Tue, Wed €5,50.

TIPI AM KANZLERAMT Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for an evening in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten park. Before the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then it’s over to the artists featured that night to entertain the audience. QE‑3, Große Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00. Mon closed. Tickets €20-55.

CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL CineStar IMAX has blockbuster films and documentaries in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original cinema has Germany’s widest range of Hollywood and arthouse movies in their original English version. QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center), MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00, www.cinestar.de. Tickets €6-13. HACKESCHE HÖFE Mainly shows foreign films in their original language. QG‑2, Rosenthaler Straße 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,tel.+49302834603,www.hackesche-hoefe.org. Tickets €8; Mon, Tue €6,50.

WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉ One of Berlin’s famed variety theatres was revived here as a dinner theater. Seated around tables, you’ll enjoy a show with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more. Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are served during the break. New shows are put on several times per year.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www. wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun 18:00. Tickets €37,20-70,20.

KINO IN DER KULTURBRAUEREI The multi-screen cinema in the beautiful KulturBrauerei complex screens films in original language every Monday.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, www.cinestar.de.

FILM FESTIVALS

SPUTNIK Berlin’s highest cinema screens a lot of indie films, many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a bit dicey working your way to the theater, but it’s safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the furniture.QG‑5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU Südstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino.com. Tickets €5-6,5.

Film festivals in December 2016 - January 2017: 30 Nov – 7 Dec: French Filmweek, various venues, www.franzoesische-filmwoche.de 8-14 Dec: Cinema! Italia!, Babylon Mitte & Bali Kino, www.cinema-italia.net 12-18 25 Jan: British Shorts, various cinemas, www.britishshorts.de

14 Berlin In Your Pocket

Apart from the huge Berlinale film festival in February, Berlin has over 40 smaller international film festivals throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.

berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE

RONCALLI & ABBA

Berlin has dozens of venues for performances. There’s lots of great theatre, but most of it is German-language; it’s getting better, with English plays or surtitles in some theatres. Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for showsbySashaWaltz,perhapsthebestchoreographeraround. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic dance company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.tanzraumberlin.de), available at the venues, lists all dance events. ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or not, come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the little black box’s stage.QF‑5, Fidicinstraße 40, Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 691 12 11, tickets@ etberlin.de, www.etberlin.de. Tickets €14-18. KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUB Laughing matters at this comedy club, which has alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights every month: Kim Eustace on the first Tuesday, and the interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaie’s show “How to become a Berliner in one hour”.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 184, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets €5-16. Shows Tue-Sun. QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB “Quatsch” is the delicious German word for nonsense, and there’s plenty of it in the shows held in the Friedrichstadtpalast theatre basement. Most are in German, but look out for special guests and the regular Englishlanguage “Strictly Stand Up” nights. Drinks and snacks like nachos and hot dogs are available.QF‑3, Friedrichstr. 107, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00 09 69, www.quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets €25-35. Shows Thu-Sun.

From 16 December till 2 January at the Tempodrom the spectacular Roncalli winter circus has clowns, acrobats, tightrope walkers on bikes performing their acts and tricks in a magically lit setting... traditionally ending with the audience invited for a walz party! It’s the sound of the 1970s and 19080s that dominate the Tempodrom on 26 Januari, when Abbamania hits the stage. The world’s largest Abba tribute show arrives for a night of unmissable golden classics. For more information and tickets see www.semmel.de.

EINE KOOPERATION DER RONCALLI ENTERTAINMENT GMBH UND DER SEMMEL CONCERTS GMBH

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OR IGIN AL

12/16/2016 – 01/02/2017 TEMPODROM

CLASSICAL MUSIC 2 Dec, 20:00 PH Berliner Philharmoniker, Frank Peter Zimmermann (violin) Conductor: Alan Gilbert; Works by Adams, Bartók and Tchaikovsky 5 Dec, 20:00 English Baroque Soloists, Monteverdi Choir Conductor: John Eliot Gardiner; Works by Bach

PH

7 Dec, 20:00 PH Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Antoine Tamestit (viola) Conductor: Fabien Gabel; Works by Berlioz, Debussy, Schmitt and Dukas facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

01/26/2017 TEMPODROM 8:00 PM www.eventim.de •

030 / 479 974 77

December 2016 - January 2017

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Culture & Events 8 Dec, 20:00 Kammerorchester Basel, Julia Lezhneva (soprano) Works by Händel and Graun

PH

10 Dec, 20:00 PH Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin Conductor: Andreas Wittmann; Works by Beethoven and Rossini

WINTER SEASON AT THE DEUTSCHE OPER

La Bohème, 2015

© Bettina Stöß

Picture the scene of the Montmartre market square in the Deutsche Oper’s grandiose, timeless production of La Boheme: the four artist friends Schaunard, Marcello, Colline and Rodolfo – who has freshly fallen in love with Mimì - meet at the Café Momus. The story won’t end well, because Mimì has contracted tuberculosis, and the hard, long winters in Paris last longer than the money for firewood, food or medicine. Claude Debussy praised Puccini’s depiction of Paris in La Boheme, and you’re sure to be enchanted by the musical and theatrical ambiance depicting the atmosphere of a cold winter morning in the city. La Boheme is an annual favourite of the Deutsche Oper Berlin, as is Hansel & Gretel and The Barber of Sevilla. This year these operas are joined by Tchaikovsky’s Eugen Onegin and Verdi’s Aida. Escape Berlin’s cold winter on a magical voyage to mediterranean Seville or the Russia of the late 19th century... experience the Aida production transforming the opera hall into a stone mausoleum, or be enticed into the forest by the witch in Hansel & Gretel. Christmas means spending time together with the family, and many Deutsche Oper performances are family shows with €10 advance sale tickets available for children and teenagers, for instance for Tosca on 10 December, for performances of Hansel & Gretel on 18, 19, 23 December and 1 January, as well as for La Boheme on 3 January, The Barber of Seville on 8 January and Nabucco on 14 January. 16 Berlin In Your Pocket

12 Dec, 20:00 Staatskapelle Berlin Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Smetana

PH

14 Dec, 20:00 Elena Bashkirova (piano) Works by Liszt, Schumann, Tchaikovsky and Skrjabin

PH

14 Dec, 20:00 PH Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin Conductor: Ingo Metzmacher; Works by Stravinsky and Bruckner 15-17 Dec, 20:00 PH Berliner Philharmoniker, Rudolf Buchbinder (piano) Conductor: Christian Thielemann; Works by Beethoven and Bruckner 17 Dec, 20:00 European Vivaldi Players, Wiktor Kuzniecow (violin) Conductor: Stefan Bevier; Works by Vivaldi

PH

20-22 Dec, 20:00 Berliner Philharmoniker Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Wagner

PH

25 Dec, 20:00 PH Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin, Kim Barbier (piano) Conductor: Stanley Dodds; Works by Tchaikovsky, Rachmaninov, Bottesini and Mendelssohn Bartholdy 26 Dec, 20:00 PH Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin Conductor: Igor Budinstein; Works by Händel, Mercadante, Mozart, de Falla, de Sarasate, Rodrigo and Ravel 26 Dec, 20:00 PH Tschechische Kammerphilharmonie Prag, Martin Kos (violin) Conductor: Petr Chromcák; Works by Vivaldi and Bach 29 & 30 Dec, 20:00 PH Berliner Philharmoniker, Daniil Trifonov (piano) Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Kabalewsky, Rachmaninov, Walton and Dvorák 5 Jan, 20:00 PH MAV Symphony Orchestra, Alexander Ghindin (piano) Conductor: David Sungjun Park; Works by Smetana, Rachmaninov and Tchaikovsky 6 Jan, 20:00 Sir András Schiff (piano) Works by Bach, Bartók, Janácek and Schumann

PH

berlin.inyourpocket.com


Christmas time at Deutsche Oper Berlin

Culture & Events

EUGENE ONEGIN – Tchaikovsky 12, 15, 20 December 2016 AIDA - Verdi 16, 21, 26 December 2016; 4 January 2017 HANSEL AND GRETEL – Humperdinck [special offer for families] 18, 19, 23 December 2016; 1 January 2017 LA BOHEME – Puccini 25, 27 December 2016; 3, 6 January 2017 THE BARBER OF SEVILLE – Rossini 31 December 2016; 8 January 2017

Aida © Marcus Lieberenz

Tickets: +49 [30]-343 84 343 www.deutscheoperberlin.de

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

December 2016 - January 2017

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Culture & Events 9 Jan, 20:00 PH Staatskapelle Berlin Condcutor & piano: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Mozart and Bruckner

SLAVA’S SNOW SHOW & STOMP

13 Jan, 20:00 PH Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Renaud Capuçon (violin) Conductor: Robin Ticciati; Works by Elgar, Grime and Schumann 14 Jan, 20:00 PH Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin, Viktoria Litsoukova and Yukako Morikawa (piano) Conductor: Christian Köhler; Works by Bach, Beethoven and Brahms

© Andrea Lopez

Two outstanding touring shows visit the Admiralspalast theatre this winter. From 3-8 January, be delighted by Slava’s Snowshow, a dream-like tale woven by Russian master clown Slava Polunin and his colleague clowns. Snow and ice play a major part of the stories, and the audience is swept from fantasy to reality looking at the antics on stage. The audience experiences a snowstorm, helps weave a giant spider web and may get involved in a water battle. From 24-29 January, the rocking Stomp show has the audience bouncing along to the wild and spectacular international percussion show. For tickets and information see www.bb-promotion.com.

WINTERGARTEN: RELAX

17 Jan, 20:00 Sol Gabetta (violoncello) & Hélène Grimaud (piano) Works by Pärt, Schumann, Debussy and Brahms

PH

19 & 20 Jan, 20:00 PH Berliner Philharmoniker, Sir András Schiff (piano) Conductor: Herbert Blomstedt; Works by Bartók and Brahms 22 Jan, 20:00 PH Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Conductor & piano: Lahav Shani; Works by Dukas, Schostakowitsch and Strawinsky 29 Jan, 20:00 PH Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Baiba Skride (violin) Conductor: Santtu-Matias Rouvali; Works by Smetana, Nielsen and Sibelius

CONCERTS 2 Dec, 20:00 Skorpions (Hardrock)

MA

4 Dec, 21:00 HN Joan As Police Woman & Benjamin Lazar Davis (Soul)

© Klaus Schein

It’s obvious that Germans love 1980s music more than anyone else – and until 19 February, the Wintergarten’s show ‘Relax’ combines dazzling acrobatics with great singers and a live band playing the best feelgood hits of the crazy 1980s – by Roxette, Depeche Mode, David Bowie and others. It’s sure to evoke strong momories of the days of CDs, MTV, Italo-disco, disco-funk, neon colours and strange haircuts. WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉQPotsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun 18:00. 18 Berlin In Your Pocket

14 Dec, 20:00 Talib Kweli (Rap)

CT

19 Jan, 19:00 Green Day (Rock)

MA

30 Jan, 20:00 UB40 (Reggae)

FP

EXHIBITIONS Until 9 January MG Pina Bausch and the Tanztheater Pina Bausch (1940–2009) is recognised as a pioneer of berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events modern dance theatre and as one of the most influential choreographers of the twentieth century. This exhibition focuses not only on the work in terms of staged performances but above all on the very foundations of the choreographer’s oeuvre, on her creative practice and on the key aspects and people that have accompanied and shaped her progress.

EXHIBITION: GERMAN COLONIALISM

Until 26 February MK Golden Ratio You’ll find it in pineapples, in Da Vinci’s art, in the face of Marilyn Monroe and in the architecture of Leipzig’s Old Town Hall. The golden ratio seems omnipresent, even in cat photos or video’s of a brawl in the Ukrainian parliament. The proportion ratio, known since antiquity, was elevated to the harmonic ideal in the 19th century. Is there a mathematical principle behind this beauty or is the golden formula just a beautiful myth? Until 26 February HB Ernst Ludwig Kirchner: Hieroglyphics Kirchner’s works from the collection of Berlin’s Nationalgalerie will be shown for the first time in their entirety. Hardly any other museum can present the wide variety of his work as impressively, and they are complemented by important loans clarifying Kirchner’s “hieroglyph” concept and works by contemporary artists Rosa Barba and Rudolf Stingel.

DEUTSCHE OPER Berlin’s famous Deutsche Oper orchestra moves back into its home theatre after extensive renovations this winter. All the more reason to visit and watch one of their performances. Several shows have Englishlanguage subtitles so visitors can follow the action; see the website for details. The highlights of Berlin’s famous Deutsche Oper orchestra this season are: 1,7-9,28,30 Dec, 2 Jan: The Nutcracker, Tchaikovsky 2 Dec, 13,20 Jan: Salome, Richard Strauss 3,29, Dec: Carmen, Georges Bizet 4,11,17, Dec: Lohengrin, Wagner 6 Dec: Abduction from the Seraglio, Mozart 10,14 Dec: Tosca, Puccini 12,15,20 Dec: Eugen Onegin, Tchaikovsky 13 Dec, 7 Jan: The Magic Flute, Mozart 16,21,26 Dec, 4 Jan: Aida, Verdi 18,19,23 Dec, 1 Jan: Hansel & Gretel, Humperdinck 31 Dec: The Barber of Seville, Rossini 3,6 Jan: La Bohème, Puccini 15,21,26 Jan: Don Giovanni, Mozart 23 Jan: Big Band – Musica Latina 29 Jan: Les Huguenots, Giacomo Meyerbeer DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN, Bismarckstraße 35, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Flooded railway tracks near Lüderitz in current Namibia, ca. 1910

14 October - 14 May The new exhibition German Colonialism – Fragments Past and Present at the Deutsches Historisches Museum is the first to look at the short but eventful era of German colonialism, which lasted from 1884 until the end of the First World War in 1918. Germany was one of the major colonial powers at that time, but only in recent years has its colonial past found its way into public consciousness to a significant degree – partly due to the debates about the recognition of the genocide of the Herero and Nama people in present-day Namibia. Colonial ideology, based on the belief of a European superiority, lead to the routine exercise of violence up to the colonial war in Namibia, which developed into genocide. Players in the colonial game, each with their own aims, included missionaries, officials, military personnel, settlers and merchants. Learn more about Germany’s controversial memory of its colonial past, how the affected countries deal with their past and about the present situation. DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Extra admission €4. December 2016 - January 2017

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Mitte Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN ALPENSTUECK Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the palate.QF‑2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open 18:00-01:00. €€. T­U­G­B­S MAXIMILIANS So you always wondered what Bavaria is like – the beer, the food, Oktoberfest – but you only made it as far as Berlin? No problem: Maximilians restaurant serves up authentic and delicious Bavarian cuisine just a stone’s throw from Gendarmenmarkt. The menu includes soups and salads, but the real specialities are the delicious Bavarian meat dishes such as knuckle of pork, steak, and a variety of sausages. QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 185-190, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. U­G­B­S MUTTER HOPPE Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided into cosy, low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers sides not served at other German restaurants, including green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further towards the Spree.QG‑3, Rathausstraße 21, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:3024:00. €€. T­E­G­B

BACK TO SCHOOL The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the watering hole for adult students from all around the world who are learning German at the GLS language school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques. DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de. GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 27, www.gls-berlin.de. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

ROTISSERIE WEINGRÜN Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what was once Berlin’s old town, Weingrün’s fresh and simple interior is a great place to sample regional grill dishes such as Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar is stocked with wines from the owner’s own vineyards in the Pfalz. The restaurant offers good views over the Spree canal.QG‑4, Gertraudenstraße 10-12, Mitte, MU Spittelmarkt, tel. +49 30 20 62 19 00, www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. T­U­G­B­S­W SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth) and Schnitzel.QF‑3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:0024:00. €€. T­U­N­B­S

@InYourPocket STÄNDIGE VERTRETUNG Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn hangout (named after the West-German ‘embassy’ in the GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politician’s meeting point supplies the homesick with their beloved Kölsch beer and Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst and Saumagen), but the menu has a selection of Berlin food as well.QF‑3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.staev.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. B WEIHENSTEPHANER The one eatery on the sunny square that delivers a “hey, this is Germany!” experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple and satisfying Bavarian specialities (like white sausages). The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-white checked tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant.QG‑3, Neue Promenade 5, Mitte, MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 84 71 07 60, www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de. Open 11:00-01:00. €€. T­U­E­G­B ZILLE-STUBE The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beafstuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG‑3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestubenikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. E December 2016 - January 2017

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Mitte FOOD WITH A VIEW

ASIAN JOLLY Opposite the Pergamon Museum, with tourists, trams and S-Bahn trains gliding by the windows, Jolly is a spacious and modern restaurant with delicious Cantonese Chinese and Thai dishes. Specialities include dim sum and Peking roast duck, served with pancakes and special sauce, but there’s also a wide variety of soups, and good portions of stir-fried meals and Thai curries, with servings of fluffy rice.QF‑3, Am Kupfergraben 4, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 20 05 95 01, service@ restaurant-jolly.de, www.restaurant-jolly.de. Open 11:30 - 23:30. €€. A­U­B­S KAMALA Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere, where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are rich and buttery.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. A­B

PANORAMA CAFÉ The 1930s-style café at the top of the popular Potsdamer Platz viewing point has large windows and an open terrace with great views over Berlin, and serves coffee, cakes and other snacks.QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www. panoramapunkt.de. Open 11:00-19:00, Nov-Mar 11:0017:00. Tower admission €6,50/5, family ticket €15,50. ZUM NUSSBAUM What seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest. When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons don’t care for authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities with curious translations, such as ‘brown rolls with dripping’. QG‑3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. €. G­B ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZ Berlin’s oldest restaurant doesn’t lie on the tourist path, and maybe that’s why German leaders bring visiting heads of state here when everything in Mitte is too noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989, and Gerhard Schröder brought Jacques Chirac over for the Berlin specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003.QG‑3, Waisenstraße 14-16, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Open 12:0001:00. Closed Sun. €€. G­B­S 22 Berlin In Your Pocket

OTITO Staying open later than others in Berlin’s tourist district, Otito is a good choice for fresh Vietnamese food at great prices, to eat in or take away. There’s fried spring rolls, wantan dumplings, pho soup and a variety of rice dishes – as well as an impressive list of sushi options.QLeipziger Str. 30, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 60 53 00, www. otito.de. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. VAN LONG Best visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities, from all parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty Thai options served in a modest space decorated with Vietnamese art. Try the specials such as the Cha Ca La Vong fish that you finish grilling at your table, or the Lau chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.QReinhardtstraße 8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 23 570, www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.

AUSTRIAN BRECHT KELLER The recipes served here are those of a busy Austrian actress making do with East German ingredients, so though decent, it’s not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) that’s famous, but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small basement cellar is full of family photographs and original set models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is what could only be described as a romantic brick-lined lounge area. A wall separates the terrace from the cemetery where the couple are buried.QF‑2, Chausseestraße 125, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 38 43, www.brechtkeller.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. B berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte FINE DINING AIGNER One of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly international, as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate from a famous Viennese café that closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh from the market.QF‑3, Französische Straße 25, Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00-02:00. €€€. T­U­G­B­S­W BORCHARDT Borchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good first impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the building’s original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which comes up with a different menu each day to keep its regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans, the beef dishes here are delectable.QF‑3, Französische Straße 47, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from 11:00. €€€. G­B FACIL At the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare using only fresh, local products direct from the market. The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that retracts.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de. Open . Closed Sat, Sun, Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. U­G­B­ Wh FISCHERS FRITZ The restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined palate. Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef first trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei (as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, deep carpets and a fireplace.QF‑3, Charlottenstraße 49, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30-23:00. €€€€. P­A­G hh LUTTER & WEGNER Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put the sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt. There’s a warren of rooms in which to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts, and you can trust the national committee that dubbed facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003.QF‑3, Charlottenstraße 56, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-berlin.de. Open 11:00-03:00. Closed Sun, The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while the Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. €€€. A­B PARIS-MOSKAU Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly positioned between new government offices and hotels. Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now. Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust, tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, there’s a lunch menu as well.QE‑3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00-24:00. €€€. A VOX Highly-paid business travellers from New York, London and Hamburg look quite at home in this excellent, minimalist and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. Between the DJ sets and creative cocktails in the adjoining bar and the show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, so don’t drop your sushi in your lap.QE‑4, Marlene-DietrichPlatz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 53 17 72, www.vox-restaurant.de. Open: Breakfast MonFri 06:30 - 10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30 - 12:00. Dinner Sun-Thu 18:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 18:30 - 24:00. Bar Sun-Thu 18:0001:00, Fri & Sat 18:00-02:00. €€€. P­A­E­G­B

INTERNATIONAL NOLA’S AM WEINBERG Delicious modern Swiss cuisine served on the heady hights of Berlin’s city-centre Weinberg ‘mountain’. Get your tongue around amazing cheese-bread-wine combinations and enjoy anything from healthy breakfasts to nicely priced weekday lunches and Sunday brunches to Alpine dinners including various fondue options.QVeteranenstrasse 9, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.nola.de. Open 10:00 - 01:00. PATIO Surprisingly few restaurants in Berlin make the most of the wonderful river views - but Patio is an exception, located on a boat with huge windows, a fireplace and large terrace areas. Watch the tour boats glide by as you try the international, Italian-inspired cuisine, or order one of the excellent cocktails.QHelgoländer Ufer corner Kirchstraße, Mitte, MS Bellevue, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 00, www.patio-berlin.de. Open 17:30 – 23:00.

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Mitte REINHARD’S Reinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel, and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG‑3, Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00-24:00. €€-€€€. T­G­B­S TRAUBE In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, ‘The Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: crossover food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes or compose their own menus, with or without wines. The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF‑2, Reinhardtstraße 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:0015:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. €€€. T­G­B ZOLLPACKHOF Strolling around the impressive Chancellery complex by the Spree can be a pretty exhausting and thirsty activity. The Zollpackhof beer garden has a terrace with views of the building and a restaurant boasting a first-class menu, ranging from light pasta dishes to excellent rump steak and Wiener schnitzel.QE‑3, Elisabeth-Abegg-Straße 1, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 33 09 97 20, www.zollpackhof.de. Open from 11:00. €€. T­U­G­B

JAPANESE COCOLO A completely authentic Japanese ramen noodle soup restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds of fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches and a line of hungry waiting guests. Start off with a bowl of salty green beans, choose from five delicious broths, have an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.QG‑2, Gipsstraße 3, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 172 304 75 84. Open 18:00-24:00. €€. G­B SUSHI CIRCLE This sushi bar caters less to the guests of the upscale hotels in the area and more to shoppers and office workers on the go. If you’re not quick enough to grab the pieces passing by on the bar’s conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle around again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle to whip a request off for you.QF‑3, Französische Straße 48, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 650 60, www.sushi-circle.de. Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:0023:00. €.

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SPANISH YOSOY TAPAS-BAR Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this intimate-sized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and a Spanish staff is one of the few to proudly show its roots. High stools and an open storefront give you a nice vantage point from which to watch the crowds flowing towards the Hackescher Höfe.QG‑3, Rosenthaler Straße 37, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 912 13, www.yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. €€. P­A­B

CAFÉS BARCOMI’S DELI Barcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coffee and luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaffeerösterei outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coffee.QF‑5, Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, info@ barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. TGBS THE DIGITAL EATERY Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very first café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (€8,90), or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic devices or use the free wifi. Best of all are the digital toys that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or play Xbox games.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W

Nightlife BARS AUFSTURZ The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable and the place looks good, with changing modern art exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger Straße haunt.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 67, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, kontakt@aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from 12:00. EB berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte Schützenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte (Nähe Checkpoint Charlie) www.currywurstmuseum.com

Anfahrt | Directions U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie) U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)

EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN. TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART. DER MAUERWINZER The‘Vintner by the Wall’serves around 100 wines from all 13 wine regions in both east and west Germany. Cosy up by the fireplace in winter or spread out on the terrace in summer to make the most of the fine wines, or get some bottles to take home.QWolliner Str. 20, Mitte, MU Eberswalder Strasse, tel. +49 30 48 49 15 01, www.mauerwinzer.de. Open 16:00 - 23:00. ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMP An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a stage, plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in the back yard shows foreign films in original version.QG‑3, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, post@eschschloraque.de, www.eschschloraque.de. Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW MEIN HAUS AM SEE It’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the ‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7, it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On the menu are drinks, exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers, pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG‑2, Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, info@meinhaus-am-see.com, www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours Open 24/7. €. TUENGBSW REINGOLD A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with an oversize drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn offspring, Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though it often has a DJ, no one dances here. It’s a setting for making stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF‑2, Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 38 76 76, info@reingold.de, www.reingold.de. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

CLUBS GRÜNER SALON Chandeliers dress up this occasional club venue, talk-show stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for standard evenings like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing.QG‑2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 24 59 89 36, www.gruener-salon.de. Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. HOUSE OF WEEKEND The old Weekend Club moved from 12th to the 17th floor of the beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on the corner of Otto-Braun-Straße. Probably the best rooftop view in town!QG‑3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 (0) 152 24293140, www.houseofweekend.berlin. Open Thu-Sat 23:00-04:00. KAFFEE BURGER The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-inthe-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba. QG‑2, Torstraße 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open from 21:00. E

CASINO SPIELBANK BERLIN The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette, American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book a tour including game instructions.QE‑4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission €2,50. Minimum age is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual. December 2016 - January 2017

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Mitte ROTER SALON This place probably began with a faded elegance, but let’s say it’s just settled in after ten years of clubbers bouncing off its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop, electro lounge, and electroclash - the music Berlin is known for.QG‑2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU RosaLuxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175 12, www.rotersalon-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.

PUBS KILKENNY IRISH PUB The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station offer more than enough space for natives and tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make sure that you won’t miss a single goal. Irish and German beer, whiskey and other cold beverages flow freely. QG‑3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, info@kilkenny-pub.de, www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW

Sightseeing LANDMARKS BRANDENBURGER TOR Berlin’s landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torch-lit marches through it, the war badly damaged it, and then the Wall essentially bricked the patched-up gate in for decades. Berliners celebrated the Wall’s fall in 1989 by standing on it in front of the gate, and after renovations the gate is the proud focus point of the renewed square again.QF‑3, Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor. NEUE SYNAGOGE The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from 1866, with preserved evidence of

26 Berlin In Your Pocket

its destruction, first on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle but effective sound installation adds to the experience.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 28-30, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00, www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:0020:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat closed. Admission €3,50/3. POTSDAMER PLATZ Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the war, and suffered again when most remaining buildings were demolished to make way for the Wall’s death strip. Hotel and office skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt. The most popular public space and architectural attraction is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting. The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F‑4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz. NIKOLAIVIERTEL Berlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche. The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday in the area in which the fishermen’s settlement first began. No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that the GDR government could afford. The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river. On Rathausstraße, there’s a row of restaurants that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the EphraimPalais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits related to Berlin.QG‑3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, www.stadtmuseum.de.

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Mitte REICHSTAG The name together with its monumental size make most people associate Germany’s neoclassical parliamentary building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fire just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999. Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps the most public federal building in the world through its glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting the building’s history circle the rim above the parliament chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome, an engineering feat even more fascinating than the panoramic view from the top. It’s best to book an entry time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of the building in advance online; otherwise queue up for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the road. Photo ID is required.QF‑3, Platz der Republik 1, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/ htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.

CHURCHES BERLINER DOM The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from 1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side exhibit rooms and good views.QG‑3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission €7/4. DEUTSCHER DOM The baroque ‘German Church’ from 1701 was completed with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged by fire in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s.

Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an exhibition about the development of parliamentarian democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows and the impressive building models on the top floor. Free tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking is required for individual visitors.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www. bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/ wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. FRANZÖSISCHER DOM The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkt’s grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and French only), dedicated to the thousands of French protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century. Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40 metres above street level, with great views all around.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open 12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. Admission €2/1, viewing balcony €2.50/1.

MEMORIALS FÜHRERBUNKER One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by walking to the end of In den Ministergärten, off Ebertstraße. A parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated apartment complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed off during the complex’s construction in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstraße.QF‑3, In den Ministergärten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR Checkpoint Charlie Friedrichstraße 47 / corner Zimmerstraße | 10117 Berlin-Mitte Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Visitors’ service info@bfgg.de More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de

HERE, CONTEmpORARy HIsTORy COmEs ALIvE facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

December 2016 - January 2017

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Mitte MUSEUMSINSEL The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of impressive collections of art, history and ethnology, covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as well as their cross-overs into modernity. ALTE NATIONALGALERIE Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are some of the artists whose works hang around this museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully battered colonnade.QG‑3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. ALTES MUSEUM This neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG‑3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS OF EUROPE This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims. The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a field of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, creating an undulating landscape that fills two city blocks. The memorial has an undergound information centre which is not suitable for children.QF‑3, Cora-Berliner-Straße 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36, besucherservice@stiftung-denkmal.de, www.stiftungdenkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00-20:00, OctMar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Deutsches Currywurst Museum

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266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. NEUES MUSEUM Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular finds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has finds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany. One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were considered to be ‘degenerate art’ by the Nazis.QG‑3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6. PERGAMON MUSEUM The Pergamon museum is undergoing major renovations, with the north wing and the hall with the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG‑3, Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.

MUSEUMS BLACK BOX COLD WAR The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and texts highlights the main events that took place here. QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, info@bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €5/3,50. DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM According to the myth, currywurst is Berlin’s very own fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that first became popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be found at train stations and street corners across the city. This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this culinary creation. There’s a shop with sausage accessories and you can taste currywurst too.QF‑4, Schützenstraße 70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47, www.currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €11/8,50. DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLIN Inside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war building on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the Daimler company’s art collection is presented in four well-curated exhibitions per year. The collection has mainly abstract artworks from the 20th century until now, and a few of the berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte larger sculptures are on permanent display in the streets around the museum.QE‑4, Alte Potsdamer Straße 5, Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14 20, www.sammlung. daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free. DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM The imperial Zeughaus - a pretty, pink, early 18th century arsenal building by the Spree - houses the impressive German History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main building illustrate the best and worst episodes of Germany’s history, and there are regularly changing exhibitions in the dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent an audio tour set for €3 or join the English-language highlights tour on Saturdays at 13:00.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8/4. Under 18 free. GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER The excellent national memorial site for the divided Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin Wall’s history in text, slides and dramatic film footage. An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for several more open-air exhibitions.QF‑2, Bernauer Straße 111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467 98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:3019:00, Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition open 24hrs). Admission free. GEMÄLDEGALERIE Berlin’s largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters include Dürer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians are represented by Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch rooms are especially good with a Vermeer and the world’s largest Rembrandt collection.QE‑4, Matthäikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, service@smb.museum, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4. HAMBURGER BAHNHOF Berlin’s wonderful modern art museum is situated in a converted train station. It’s well worth a visit by those curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fixated by bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection.QE‑2, Invalidenstraße 50-51, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, hbf@smb.spkberlin.de, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

PANORAMAPUNKT

© Landesarchiv Berlin

PANORAMAPUNKT It takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th and 25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans Kollhoff’s magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to New York’s skyscraping glory days but also resembles the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the top floors there’s a short film and an exhibition about the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which went from a world-class entertainment district to a Wall-divided wasteland and back again within a generation. The café and rooftop terrace offer great close-up views of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and Tiergarten park.QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Nov - Mar 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €6,50/5, family ticket €15,50.

KUNSTHALLE The private collection of the Deutsche Bank contains works by world-renowned contemporary artists; regularly changing temporary exhibitions show selected works in this space on Unter den Linden designed by Richard Gluckman. The annual ‘artist of the year’ exhibition focuses on one young artist. There’s a nice ArtCafé and shop too. There are free tours every day, several on Monday between 11:00-19:00.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 13-15, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 202 09 30, www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.com. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission €4/3, Monday & under 18 free. Free guided tours at 18:00. MEMU MENSCHEN MUSEUM A much-discussed exhibition of real, plastinated human bodies, aiming to show visitors how their bodies and individual organs work, how we can live healthier and longer, and what disease really looks like.QPanoramastrasse 1a (Fernsehturm tower), Mitte, www.memu.berlin. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €14/12. December 2016 - January 2017

29


Mitte VIEWPOINTS FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER) The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops certainly brings a level of humour to Berlin’s skyline. The 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969, 70m higher than the Eiffel tower and the tallest building in Germany, has an observation deck and the Sphere restaurant with a rotating floor. Photos point out the landmarks for you.QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.tv-turm.de. Admission €12/8.

Shopping Wall Panorama

MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the personalities that gave it glamour and style came from Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country with a strong film-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting of Olympia (1936) and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda films will impress ‘seen-that’ film buffs. The museum ends with special effects and science fiction.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 2 (Sony Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 300 90 30, www.deutschekinemathek.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission €6/4,5.

ALEXA CENTRE A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafés. There’s a massive kids’ area with a cinema and the LOXX model train exhibition.QG‑3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00, www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:0019:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00. GUDRUN SJÖDÉN Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjödén in a bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. There’s two floors of clothing and a cozy café corner.QMarkgrafenstr. 32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere there’s the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites, the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla Bobby from the primates hall.QF‑2, Invalidenstraße 43, Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85 91, info@mfn-berlin.de, www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,50.

RITTER SPORT CHOCOWORLD The flagship store of Germany’s famous Ritter Sport chocolate brand has hundreds of chocolatey products to try and buy, an exhibition about how chocolate is made, a restaurant and a workshop where children can create their own chocolate bar.QFranzösische Str. 24, Mitte, tel. +49 30 20 09 50 80, www.ritter-sport.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

WALL PANORAMA The round structure near Checkpoint Charlie houses an incredibly detailed 60 by 15 metre panoramic painting of the Berlin Wall and its scruffy surroundings as it looked in the mid-1980s. Artist Yadegar Asisi has incorporated his personal experiences of the time and the everyday banality of the Wall with fascinating small scenes of life, on both sides of the divide. Join the English tour on Thursdays 11:30 at no extra cost.QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 205, Mitte, tel. +49 34 13 55 53 40, www.asisi.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mid-July to mid-Sept 10:00-19:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission €10/8.

ADLON KEMPINSKI The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy 1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin. QF‑2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, adlon@kempinski.com, www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles €240 - 379, 304 doubles €216 - 478, 78 suites €531 - 7100). PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh

30 Berlin In Your Pocket

Hotels OVER €200

berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App HILTON Maybe it’s the excellent breakfast and not the privileged view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back. The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants and exotic spa treatments.QF‑2, Mohrenstraße 30, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@hilton.com, www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles €145 - 345, doubles €145 - 345, suites €220 - 1145). Breakfast extra. PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh HOTEL DE ROME Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a magnificent former bank building from 1889. Wooden panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade the high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the bank’s vault is now a 20-metre pool.QF‑3, Behrenstraße 37, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, info.derome@ roccofortecollection.com, www.hotelderome.com. 146 rooms (103 singles €395 - 495, 103 doubles €395 495, 43 suites €595 - 4100). MARRIOTT Ten floors of superb rooms and conference facilities overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning 3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one wall plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make this one of Berlin’s finest hotels.QE‑4, Inge-BeisheimPlatz 1, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22 00 00, www.marriott.com. 379 rooms (350 singles €159 - 219, 350 doubles €159 - 219, 9 suites €350 1200, 80 executive room €199 - 259). Breakfast extra. PHAFLGKDC hhhhh WESTIN GRAND Enviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy of the

Adlon’s marble staircase situated in the lobby, a round pool, an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler service.QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 158-164, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 202 70, info@westin-grand.com, www.westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles €136 - 350, 273 doubles €136 - 375, suites €379 - 930, 15 junior suites €279 - 565, 1 presidential suite €986 - 1930). Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

€150-200 MANDALA Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and longterm stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstraße 185190 are close to all the action.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00 00, welcome@madison-berlin.de, www.themandala.de. 157 rooms (157 suites €130 - 5800). Breakfast extra. PHAUFLKDW hhhhh

€75-150 HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence (Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer.QF‑2, Tieckstraße 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50, info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond.de. 24 rooms (singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225). AG PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germany’s third-largest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are all renovated and stocked with a coffeemaker and ironing board. By far the best choice for the direction-impaired.QG‑3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 238 90, berlin.hotel@ rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn-berlin.com. 1012 rooms (318 singles €89 - 125, 671 doubles €89 - 125, 23 suites €130 - 185). Breakfast extra. POARFGKD hhhh

asisi Panorama Berlin Friedrichstraße 205 10117 Berlin Checkpoint Charlie

Tickets and Service +49(0)341.35 55 34 0 service@asisi.de

Free Guided Tours Thursdays 11.30 a.m. in English – for Berlin discoverers

Opening hours daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Getting there U6 Kochstraße U2 Stadtmitte M29 Kochstraße

facebook.com/ asisi.berlin www.asisi.de

ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN asisi.de

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

In cooperation with

December 2016 - January 2017

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Charlottenburg & the West Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN APRIL This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.net. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS KNESE Alt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on offer at rustic Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes, the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some good South-African wine.QC‑4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TB RENGER-PATZSCH Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen. QD‑5, Wartburgstraße 54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€.

Zillemarkt

SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNE Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree, sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote Grütze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD‑5, Motzstraße 61, Schöneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21 96 98 61, schoeneberger_weltlaterne@yahoo.de, http://schoeneberger-weltlaterne.mycylex.de. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB

RESTAURANT SCHLOSSGARTEN A stone’s throw from the elegant Charlottenburg palace and several other top-class museums, the Schlossgarten is an excellent restaurant with a bright interior, a separate small ‘Jägerstübchen’ room and a large 80-seat Biergarten that’s delightful in summer. Schlossgarten specialises in German and game dishes, using fresh and seasonal regional products. Try the spicy venison goulash soup, a game Bratwurst, one of the fresh fish dishes or the Berliner calf liver.QB‑3, Schlossstr. 64, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 36 70 22 99, www.restaurant-schlossgarten-berlin.de. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00.

Local cuisine Wartburgstraße 54 Berlin - Schöneberg Open daily from 18:00 Tel. 784 20 59 www.renger-patzsch.com Renger-Patzsch

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December 2016 - January 2017 GEBE42_RengerPatzsch_ad.indd 5

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Charlottenburg & the West AMERICAN HARD ROCK CAFE This is the place to head to meet both foreigners and locals looking for huge piles of food and un-Germanly friendly staff. America dominates the menu, with nachos, wraps, fantastic hamburgers, steaks and chocolate peanut butter pie. When the kitchen closes, the bar continues, allowing visitors to party on.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 224, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 88 46 20, www.hardrock.com. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 00:30. (€10-20). P­A­E­G­B

ASIAN Suksan

ZILLEMARKT It’s easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous for his charming portraits of Berlin’s lower classes, stroll in and order a jellied boiled pork, stuffed cabbage leaves or a Berliner Currywurst. Zillemarkt serves breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner, and you can down a Zillebräu beer in the glass-ceilinged bar.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, info@zillemarkt.de, www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TB

JJ

Zillemarkt

Caféhaus • Restaurant

Over 100 years of comfort and quality Traditional German cuisine

SUKSAN A short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials, or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD‑4, Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de, www.suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.

AUSTRIAN OTTENTHAL The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh, seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town, Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil, are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite spots.QC‑4, Kantstraße 153, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. VGB SCHNITZELEI Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre, with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations, though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB‑3, Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-WagnerPlatz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS

Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00 Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00 Tel. 030-881 70 40 Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg www.zillemarkt.de 34 Berlin In Your Pocket

FINE DINING FIRST FLOOR A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieter’s restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who can’t move well after a seven-course meal make a point of staying at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and the Far East, berlin.inyourpocket.com


Charlottenburg & the West and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu.QD‑4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, www.palace.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. G h GROSZ A true old-fashioned Grand Cafe and restaurant, conceived in the same style as during the Ku’damm’s heyday, a century ago. Grosz not only looks magnificent with its architecture, the fine dining is as good as it gets in this part of town. Settle down for an exquisite dinner - perhaps even private dining? - or drop by earlier for the Plat du jour lunch special or the cakes from the house patisserie.QKurfürstendamm 193/194, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrasse, tel. +49 30 652 14 21 99, www.grosz-berlin.de/. Open 09:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:30.

SUKSAN

TRAVEL FAR. EAT AT HOME Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip to the land of smiles.

HUGOS The InterContinental’s Michelin-starred French restaurant on the 14th floor has stunning views across the park to Potsdamer Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeier’s cuisine is equally dazzling; expect subtle creations blending fine flavours in the lightest of dishes. QD‑4, Budapester Straße 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 26 02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. TUGW h

FRENCH LE PETIT ROYAL Fantastic, high quality French cuisine, focussing on classic dishes, fresh seafood and fish - but there’s great steak too. And it’s no problem to pair whatever you order to one of the 500 wines stored in the large wine room. The beautifully designed space is perfect for a special night out. QC‑4, Grolmanstrasse 59, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 330 06 07 50, www.lepetitroyal.de.

INTERNATIONAL DIEKMANN Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlin’s simple tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients. Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French cheeses.QC‑4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann-restaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB DRESSLER A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling, large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden 39.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurantdressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE

ORIGINA L THAI FOO D

SUKSAN Ansbacher Strasse 4 corner Kurfürstenstrasse U - Wittenbergplatz www.suksan.de

TEL 030.21 01 86 73 December 2016 - January 2017

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Charlottenburg & the West DUKE Creative international crossover meals are served in the aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling 1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary treats.QD‑4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€-€€€€. EINHORN A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only. Every day there’s a completely different menu, with European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC‑4, Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-catering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. NGS

ITALIAN FRANCUCCI’S Francucci’s kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with homemade pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black truffles.QB‑4, Kurfürstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. TVGBSW LOCANDA A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The pasta, fish and meat dishes are simple, and all simply delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite the Schaubühne theatre.QB‑4, Lehniner Platz 2, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69 68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. T­N­G­B­S ZWÖLF APOSTEL The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business lunch options offer good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2, under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. TNGBS

JAPANESE SACHIKO SUSHI An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town, dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, here’s your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC‑3, JeanneMammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. TGBS 36 Berlin In Your Pocket

RUSSIAN SAMOWAR Berlin’s oldest Russian restaurant can fittingly be found in Charlottenburg, the district that has been popular with Russian visitors and immigrants for over a century. Samowar serves Chicken Kiev, Beef Stroganoff, Odessa fish soup and many more Russian classics in a wonderful setting with dark wood, paintings, busts and antiques. For an extra memorable experience book the 3-course Czar menu with borscht soup, shashlik, salmon, veal and bliny desserts - or enjoy a tea ceremony with Russian sweets. QLuisenplatz 3, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 341 41 54, www.restaurant-samowar.de. Open From 11:00.

SPANISH EL DORADO Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just want to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass by.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€. B

CAFÉS CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This café, restaurant and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as well as regional food, coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food served till 22:00.QD‑4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats, polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you don’t have to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout. Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC‑4, Fasanenstraße 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.de, www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€. GB CAFE KALWIL A cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg. Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coffee, quality teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals and more. QD‑4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 - 22:00. €€. ABW berlin.inyourpocket.com


Charlottenburg & the West GRENANDER MORNING GLORY Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your morning.QD‑4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www. grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS WHAT DO YOU FANCY LOVE? Away from the posh cafes along the Ku’damm, try a relaxed cup of coffee, slice of cake, or healthy snack, juice or smoothie at ‘Fancy’.QKnesebeckstr. 68/69, Charlottenburg, www.whatdoyoufancylove.de. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Nightlife BARS GREEN DOOR This dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded, green leather door protects those prone to bumping into things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up, and quite steady on their feet.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße 50, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15, www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. ZWIEBELFISCH The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out the beer or coffee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC‑4, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfischberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW

Café im Literaturhaus

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WEST BERLIN REVIVAL

After the Second World War, the western half of Berlin found itself in a very curious situation. This group of city suburbs, which included the chic shopping and theatre district of Charlottenburg, was suddenly declared a separate entity from the eastern part of the city, which included the entire city centre district. After the fall of the Wall, West Berlin went through a tough decade of reorientation, as investment and visitors headed east to the original city centre. Now however, the West is undergoing something of a revival. Next to the newly renovated Gedächtniskirche stands the gleaming new Waldorf Astoria, overlooking the revolutionary Bikini Berlin concept mall and the linked 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin. December 2016 - January 2017

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Charlottenburg & the West

401 whiskies

■ Berlin‘s first English pub since 1976 ■ British and Irish beer on tap ◄ Drink from the YARD OF ALE (1 litre) mouth-blown exclusively for Union Jack ■ Live Music during winter months Schlüterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00

HEFNER The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner prides itself on having the best selection of Martini cocktails in Berlin.QC‑4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg, MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefnerberlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB

skin offers shelter for almost all of the 75,000 seats. On nonevent days you can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide, or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz 3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30 25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de, www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June - mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-16:00. Admission €7/5.

PUBS

SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace in 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter facade and central tower, took its final form in 1790. You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA‑3, Spandauer Damm 20-24, Charlottenburg, MU RichardWagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues closed. Admission €12/8, New Wing €6/5. Photo permit €3.

THE HARP A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights and live music too. The pub can be booked for special occasions.QB‑4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harppub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 15:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. €-€€. EBW UNION JACK A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this whisky pub is one of Berlin’s first true pubs and continues to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys (from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers. Solid food is available too – home made snacks and Walkers crisps.QC‑4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjackberlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun Open from 19:00. Sun closed.

Sightseeing LANDMARKS OLYMPIC STADIUM The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936 Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly floating roof whose translucent 38 Berlin In Your Pocket

CHURCHES GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s landmark attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germany’s culpability is declared on a plaque: ‘The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of God’s judgement, which befell our people during the war years.’ The 1895 church was once a symbol of national pride: even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many of them free.QD‑4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Charlottenburg & the West MUSEUMS ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM) The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied (US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135, Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818 19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission free. BRÖHAN MUSEUM A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and craft design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by so much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy and indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent collection (spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases, and furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter Behrens and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions. QB‑3, Schloßstraße 1a, Charlottenburg, MU SophieCharlotte-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00, www.broehanmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/4. C/O BERLIN The famed C/O photo gallery is now based in the iconic Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There are multiple exhibitions on at any time, by both unknown and renowned photographers. Don’t miss the cafe and the museum shop either.QC‑4, Hardenbergstraße 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Admission €10/5. MUSEUM FÜR ASIATISCHE KUNST Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian Art museum has an impressive permanent collection of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts.QTakustraße 40, Zehlendorf, MU DahlemDorf, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3.

PARKS AND GARDENS TIERGARTEN This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and waterways is the most genteel of Berlin’s parks, but it’s still a fine place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue, or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessäule (Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from 1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout point in the middle of the park. The park’s café and beer garden, Café am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end. QC/D/E‑3/4. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Hotels OVER €200 DAS STUE The luxurious, family-owned ‘living room’ hotel, set in the 1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting mix of creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style bar and many rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches and antelopes peering back at you. The rooms and grand suites are spread across the old and new wings, adorned with beautiful wooden and copper details. A small pool can be found in the spa area, and there’s the first-class Cinco restaurant. Q­D‑4, Drakestraße 1, Tiergarten, M­U Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.com. 80 rooms (70 doubles from €200, 20 suites €290-740). P­H­ U­F­G­K­D­C­W­ INTERCONTINENTAL Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park, the InterContinental offers quiet nights in modern and spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent business solutions. After work, there’s gourmet food at Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further relaxation options can be found in the large spa complex, with several saunas and fitness facilities.Q­D‑4, Budapester Straße 2, Tiergarten, M­S/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 260 20, berlin@interconti.com, www.interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles €165 350, 498 doubles €170 - 400, 60 suites €215 - 2500). Breakfast extra. P­T­H­A­U­F­L­E­G­B­K­ D­C­W­h­h­h­h­h­ KEMPINSKI BRISTOL The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home - out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on a swank corner of Ku’damm.Q­C‑4, Kurfürstendamm 27, Charlottenburg, M­U Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 43 40, reservations.bristol@kempinski.com, www.kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles €265 - 326, 249 doubles €322 - 447, 52 suites €470 - 1800). Breakfast extra. P­H­A­R­U­F­L­G­K­D­C­ h­h­h­h­h­ PALACE Near the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak panelling and fireplaces. The staidly furnished rooms are large.Q­D ‑4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, M­S/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20, hotel@palace.de, www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59 singles €200 - 300, 191 doubles €225 - 325, 32 suites €325 - 2150). P­H­A­R­U­F­L­G­K­D­C­ h­h­h­h­h­ December 2016 - January 2017

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Charlottenburg & the West SAVOY BERLIN Utterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode once made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who knows who you’ll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop near the clubby Times Bar.Q­C‑4, Fasanenstraße 9-10, Charlottenburg, M­S/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 10 30, info@ hotel-savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com. 125 rooms (45 singles €142 - 222, 62 doubles €152 - 232, triples €192 - 272, 16 suites €202 - 292). A­R­F­KD ­ ­h­h­h­h­ SOFITEL BERLIN KURFÜRSTENDAMM The 11-story, French-style Sofitel impresses with sleekly designed rooms with fine woods, contemporary art and fantastic views from the upper floors. The curved corner suites have sliding walls and elegant free-standing bathtubs.Q­C‑4, Augsburger Straße 41, Charlottenburg, M­U Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 800 99 90, H9387@ sofitel.com, www.sofitel.com. 311 rooms (singles €230 280, doubles €240 - 300, 44 suites €280 - 950). Breakfast extra. SWISSÔTEL BERLIN Every room here has a Lavazza espresso machine and suites are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. When you’re done playing in your room, downtown western Berlin beckons. You’ll never want to go home.Q­C‑4, Augsburger Straße 44, Charlottenburg, M­U Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 22 01 00, berlin@swissotel.com, www.swissotelberlin.com. 316 rooms (219 singles €160 - 310, 219 doubles €160 - 310, 14 suites €310 - 480, 11 junior suite €260 - 410). Breakfast €21. P­H­A­R­F­L­G­D­ h­h­h­h­h­ WALDORF ASTORIA Berlin’s newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies a prime spot near Kurfürstendamm and the Kadewe department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand New York heritage, it’s decorated in lavish Art Deco style, with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms, and a café and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library on the 15th floor with its concierge and great views is a comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run by star chef Pierre Gagnaire offers fine dining and 650 wines.Q­C‑4, Hardenbergstraße 28, Charlottenburg, M­S/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www.waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles from €250). P­H­A­U­F­L­G­K­D­C­w­W­

€150-200 BERLINER HOF AM TAUENTZIEN Enter through the Europa Center mall to reach this surprisingly light and modern hotel. Comfort rooms have big beds, kitchenettes and a sitting area behind a sliding door; rooms overlooking the courtyard are quieter, larger and have balconies.QD‑4, Tauentzienstraße 8, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 25 49 50, www.berliner-hof.com. singles €105  - 151, doubles €130 - 174. T­A­R­L­G hhh 40 Berlin In Your Pocket

SHERATON BERLIN GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADE Overlooking the Bauhaus museum between Kurfürstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and impresses with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harry’s New York Bar and a sizeable spa and fitness centre.Q­D‑4, Lützowufer 15, Tiergarten, M­U Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 25 47 80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms (singles/doubles from €99, 40 suites from €139). P­T­H­A­U­F­L­ G­K­D­C­W­h­h­h­h­h­

€75-150 BERLIN, BERLIN Mostly known for its conference facilities, this large 1958 hotel is in a central but rather bland area just south of Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and restaurant give way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a variety of styles. Peace can be found in the summer garden restaurant.Q­D ‑4, Lützowplatz 17, Tiergarten, M­U Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50, info@ hotel-berlin.de, www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms (103 singles €100 - 195, 569 doubles €100 - 245, 29 suites €220 - 900). P­H­A ­R­U­F­L­G­K­D­ h­h­h­h­ BERLIN PLAZA The Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen and free wi-fi. The in-house Knese restaurant has solid traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace. Q­C‑4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, M­U Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, info@plazahotel. de, www.plazahotel.de. 131 rooms (singles €80 150, doubles €79 - 180, triples €105 - 200). H­L­ G­K­W­ ELLINGTON HOTEL Set in a beautiful 1920s building near Kurfürstendamm and named after the American jazz legend, the Ellington’s rooms have clean, understated and elegant design, with the Tower Suites offering great views. The Duke hotel restaurant serves up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings, and has regular jazz brunches.Q­D‑4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg, M­U Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 68 31 50, contact@ellington-hotel.com, www.ellington-hotel.com. 285 rooms (singles €108 - 238, doubles €118 - 248, suites €168 - 428). P­J­H­A­RU ­ ­F­L­K­ SYLTER HOF Sylt may be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these suites in a high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in Berlin, you get a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket is across the street) and rates go down for longer stays. Q­D‑3, Kurfürstenstraße 114-116, Schöneberg, M­U Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, info@sylterhofberlin.de, www.sylterhof-berlin.de. 160 rooms (80 singles €69 - 120, 40 doubles €99 - 180, 40 suites €129 - 210). H­A­G­h­h­h­ berlin.inyourpocket.com


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ASIAN GLORY DUCK Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with gingermango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other toppings. Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or one of the vegetarian options. There’s a good selection of drinks and Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason to drop by; the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting perspective lines, there’s a large harbour scene on one wall and the toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic stickers.QI‑4, Sonntagstraße 31, Friedrichshain, MS Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.de. Open 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. AUBSW

INTERNATIONAL SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service – what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian options.QI‑3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 24:00. €. TUNGBS CUPCAKE BERLIN The very first thing that we learnt to bake together with our mothers is now a fashionable little dessert snack with its own café dedicated to it. Try ‘The King’ cupcake (with Elvis’ favourite ingredients), the sweet 42 Berlin In Your Pocket

© visitBerlin, Photo: Wolfgang Scholvien

‘Pretty in Pink’ or any of the other 20-odd creations. There’s a good breakfast and coffee served at Cup Cake too.QJ‑4, Krossener Straße 12, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 25 76 86 87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00. TUVNGBSW

CAFÉS KAUFBAR At this homey café you can wash down your chocolate croissant with either a coffee or carafe of red wine. Excepting the wine, you can buy everything here to-go: the lampshades, art work, chairs and even the ashtrays. The only thing not for sale in the “Buy Bar” are their board games.QJ‑4, Gärtnerstraße 4, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 77 88 25, www.kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 15:00 - 24:00. TUNGBSW MACONDO Macondo was the setting of García Márquez’ novel 100 Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful ‘reading café’. There’s old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday market, good coffee and original South American mate tea, sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI‑4, Gärtnerstraße 14, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, info@mancondo-berlin.de, www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW berlin.inyourpocket.com


Friedrichshain BARS

MUSEUMS

ASTRO-BAR A firm Friedrichshain favourite, this incredibly scruffy sci-fi themed bar is open late - very late - and serves good cocktails at great prices. Visited by a wild variety of people, weekend evenings are the best times to come, when DJs from Berlin’s underground party scene spin their electropop and retro records. No real dancefloor unfortunately, but nobody will stop you from just wiggling anywhere. It has an Attacks From Mars pinball machine.QI‑4, Simon-Dach-Straße 40, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße. Open from 20:00 - open end. DJs every night from 22:00. B

COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM The world’s first computer games museum presents six epic decades of gaming history, including the Giant Joystick, Painstation, Arcade Hall, the legendary Pong machine and the Wall of Hardware. With 300 exhibits, rare originals and working classics you can try several games yourself.QI‑3, Karl-Marx-Allee 93a, Friedrichshain, MU Weberwiese, tel. +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.computerspielemuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission €8/5.

CRACK BELLMER A barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking however; there’s film screenings, and a good-sized space for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Straße.QI‑4, Revaler Straße 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, www. crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. U­N­B

CLUBS BERGHAIN A legendary techno club. Pretty much anything goes on the main dance floor, in the Panorama Bar and in the dark rooms of this huge old power plant. The doorman picks from the queue of hopefuls to create the right mix, so parties are always varied and exciting. Arrive early Sunday morning for the best atmosphere. There are concerts and events on weekdays too, and in summer an outdoor Diskogarten.QI‑3/4, Am Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 29 36 02 10, www.berghain.de. Open Fri 24:00 Sat 12:00, Sat 24:00 - Mon 09:00. U­N­G­B­W MATRIX Directly underneath under the Warschauer Straße U-Bahn station DJs lay down tracks of R’n’B, straight house, soul, electro, disco and pop on seven dance floors within the vaults that date back to 1901. There’s always a party here, 365 nights a year. Thursday is student night, Friday has party classics with free champagne before midnight for ladies, Saturday is Fruity Night, with juicy cocktails.QI‑4, Warschauer Platz 18, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 36 99 90, www.matrixberlin.de. Open 22:00 - 06:00. Admission €3-6. U­G­B­W POSTBAHNHOF CLUB Popular with students and others in their 20s/30s, this well-run club set inside the former mail station next to Ostbahnhof has three dancefloors and an outdoor bar. The music varies nightly depending on the party theme; everything from 90s, RnB and rock to house and electro. Unlike other clubs in the area, this is no overhyped favourite - you can simply expect to have a good time here. Also known for concerts and other events. QStraße der Pariser Kommune 8, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 698 12 80, www.postbahnhof.club. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-04:00. Admission €4-7,50. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

DEUTSCH-RUSSISCHES MUSEUM In the southeast, the building where Germany signed its surrender on 8 May 1945 now serves as the GermanRussian museum. More rooms focus on World War II, but exhibits include Soviet relations to both East and West Germany and ‘the presence of the war following the war’. QZwieseler Straße 4, Lichtenberg, MS Karlshorst, tel. +49 30 50 15 08 10, www.museum-karlshorst.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. STASI MUSEUM East Germany’s State Security Service or Stasi was responsible for intelligence gathering both at home and abroad. It spied on its own citizens, sometimes employing the friends, colleagues, and family of those they wished to keep an eye on. Today, this humble museum shows the office of Erich Mielke, the feared Stasi minister for 32 years, in its original dull state. There’s a video of him testifying before a panel in 1989, symbols of Communist kitsch, and many documents in German.QRuschestraße 103, Haus 1, Friedrichshain, MU Magdalenenstraße, tel. +49 30 553 68 54, www.stasimuseum.de. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 18:00. Admission €5/4. Closed until 17 Jan. STASI PRISON The most hard-hitting of all GDR-related museums, the Stasi Prison shows the sheer brutality of this dictatorship. Used by the Soviets and the GDR’s secret service to extract confessions in advance of (show) trials, the Hohenschönhausen prison swallowed thousands of people who underwent horrific physical and psychological torture in the chilling ‘submarine’ cell block and the interrogation rooms. A short film is followed by an excellent 90-minute guided tour, vividly explaining how efficiently the prison system worked, and how nobody ever escaped. Take tram M5 from Alexanderplatz to Freienwalder Straße and walk 600 metres.QGenslerstraße 66, tel. +49 30 98 60 82 30, www.stiftung-hsh.de. English tours on Wed, Sat, Sun at 14:30. Admission €5. THE WALL MUSEUM (MAUERMUSEUM) Right next to the East Side Gallery, the longest remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall, this new museum uses films of historic events and interviews with witnesses plus some exhibits to tell the story of the structure that split the city from 1961 to 1989. Not to be confused with the Mauermuseum at Checkpoint Charlie. QMühlenstrasse 78-80, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strasse, tel. +49 30 82 71 77 17 40, www.thewallmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €12.50/6.50. December 2016 - January 2017

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Prenzlauer Berg On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old working-class district in the former East Berlin that came through the war relatively unscathed. After 1989, the cool brigade pounced on the area, and houses that were once home to East German punks were renovated in odes to pastel. The number of wine shops and young parents pushing pricey prams indicates the level of gentrification here. The best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz, Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer Berg’s best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre, set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the west.

POCKET WALK: PRENZLAUER BERG Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstraße from U-Bahn station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn into beautiful Husemannstraße, which was already restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistraße where you’ll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead; enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Straße and amble down Lychenerstraße to pretty, café-lined Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstraße west, turn left down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn station to Eberswalder Straße; you’ll soon reach the popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Straße with its excellent Wall Memorial.

HOTEL PRECISE MYER’S Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myer’s is an upmarket private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms overlooking the garden. On the ground floor, a tearoom has a pleasant summer terrace.QH‑2, Metzer Straße 26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 40, info@myershotel.de, www.myershotel. de. 51 rooms (8 singles €75 - 135, 33 doubles €85 Erich -We 10 Premium €115 - 265). - ei185, 1 suite €195 Rode - 345, Schivelb iner ner Str. nber t-St gr. Kug HARG le er

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Prenzlauer Berg Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN DIE SCHULE Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk. Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can have all the German food classics, and even better: you can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG‑2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-dieschule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW METZER ECK Opened 1913, time seems to have stood still in the oldest tavern in Prenzlauer Berg - and that’s the way the regulars like it. The Eck serves inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages, Boulette (hamburger), and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes), and has a letter from artist Heinrich Zille to the first tavern owner hanging on the back wall, as well as a savings box that regulars once contributed to.QG‑2, Metzer Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 442 76 56, info@metzer-eck.de, www.metzer-eck.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €. N­G­B­S

DAILY 11.00 – 24.00

Die Schule

RESTAURATION 1900 Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options. Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at the weekly market, and on Sundays to fill up at the allyou-can-eat breakfast buffet.QH‑2, Husemannstraße 1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 23:00. €-€€. TBSW

FAST FOOD KONNOPKE’S IMBISS The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin wrapping).QG‑1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65, www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €.

INTERNATIONAL

Modern and light German food on Berlin‘s catwalk no.1 KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN FON: (030) 78 00 89 5-50 info@restaurant-die-schule.de www.restaurant-die-schule.de U2

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facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

FLEISCHLUST A spot for those with healthy lust for flesh can grill ‘n chill. Staff in 1930s outfits serve excellent steaks, cooked anything from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the undecided, there’s a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve into the wine and cocktail menu.QH‑1, Pappelallee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 67 54 14, http://fleischlust.jimdo.com. Open 17:00 - open end. GUGELHOF During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrification, the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state: Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; this is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.QH‑2, Knaackstraße 37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, gugelhof@t-online.de, www.gugelhof.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A December 2016 - January 2017

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Prenzlauer Berg ITALIAN PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB

JAPANESE SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd this five-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki, California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak English.QH‑2, Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€.

SANTIAGO This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a somewhat dodgy interior – leather sofas and glitzy girl statues that wouldn’t look out of place in a nightclub – but manages to get the punters in with a range of attractively priced offers like cocktails during the happy (before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). There’s an eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at weekends.QH‑2, Wörtherstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open 16:00 - 03:00. WEINSTEIN An older crowd savours an evening of conversation and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better places to try the outstanding German whites that usually don’t make it out of the country and there’s also a selection of sherries.QH‑1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42, weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.

CAFÉS ANNA BLUME Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts, it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just reading. Intriguingly, it also sells flowers (Blume) from the connected shop next door – and the smell of coffee and fresh flowers combines very well.QH‑2, Kollwitzstraße 83, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00. SCHALL UND RAUCH ‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar at night together with a variety of artists, students and young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent hotel has modern and affordable double rooms.QG‑1, Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

Nightlife BARS AUGUST FENGLER A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley) too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco, and funk in the small back dance room.QG‑1, Lychner Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. 46 Berlin In Your Pocket

@InYourPocket WOHNZIMMER If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDRera tables are constantly being shuffled to make room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s coffee and pastries in the morning.QH‑1, Lettestraße 6, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00.

CLUBS GEBURTSTAGSKLUB Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of this otherwise spacious cellar. Don’t miss the mad monthly drag party with Nina Queer. Like at many clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.QH‑2, Am Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Schillingstraße, tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00. SODA CLUB In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with a lesson hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five dancefloors with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get in for free until 01:00.QSchönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 443 151 55, info@sodaberlin.de, www.soda-berlin.de. Open Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00 Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Prenzlauer Berg Sightseeing LANDMARKS KULTURBRAUEREI Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century brewery and you’ll eventually find an entryway into a nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is filled with bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only thing you won’t find is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to live bands.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52, www.kulturbrauerei.de.

MUSEUMS ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZEL’S MIETSHAUS Gentrification has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating museum shows master carpenter Brunzel’s apartment in its original state, with extensive information about its construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid living conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and Berlin.QH‑1, Dunckerstraße 77, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.de. Open 11:00 16:30. Closed Wed. Admission €2/1.

PARKS AND GARDENS MAUERPARK The immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery to speak of; this is an intensely used piece of former border strip that’s especially busy on Sundays when it hosts a flea market and the immensely popular Bearpit Karaoke (every second Sunday from 15:00), where anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a crowd of thousands.QG‑1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark. info.

Shopping BOOKS SHAKESPEARE & SONS An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language books as well as coffee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH‑1, Raumerstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Raumerstr. 8 [Helmholtzplatz], 40301770 www.tausche.de

FASHION & SHOES TAUSCHE TASCHEN Bags with exchangeable flaps in over 100 different designs. Two flaps are included and various insets equip the bag to suit any occasion. QH‑1, Raumerstraße 8, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 70, info@ tausche.de, www.tausche.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 18:00. Closed Sun.

MARKETS FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative souvenirs and antiques - it’s all available (though not particularly cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark flea market. Arrive early to avoid the crowds.QG‑1, Bernauer Straße 63-64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Straße, tel. 0176 29 25 00 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun 09:00-15:00.

Full contents online: berlin.inyourpocket.com December 2016 - January 2017

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POCKET WALK: KREUZBERG Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der Luftbrücke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards and walk along genteel Bergmannstraße, perhaps visiting a café or the market hall, before walking south to Columbiadamm for access to the the former Tempelhof airport, now a wonderful park. Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through ‘little Istanbul’ to Oranienplatz and follow the park to the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across Landwehrkanal into the trendy ‘Kreuzkölln’ district for cupcakes and cocktails.

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Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a bong at, Kreuzberg feels neither east nor west. It was the black sheep of West Berlin, literally cornered up against the death strip and left alone to play loud music and draw on the walls. By now, the protesting students of 1968 have grown grey alongside the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987, Kreuzberg relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional May Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into a long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise, Kreuzberg is aMITTE perfectly safe district to wander through, and it’s all about backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular Oranienstraße and Bergmannstraße drags. This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors in summer, and the upcoming Neukölln district. Here, the Kreuzkölln area around Reuterstraße is increasingly attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird nightlife spots.

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Kreuzberg Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN ALTES ZOLLHAUS A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities featuring things such as goat’s cheese, dumplings, mustard sauce and compotes. QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.altes-zollhaus.com. Open 18:00 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. TUGBW

youtube.com/inyourpocket HENNE Who knew that the Germans fried chicken? Other than a few Wursts, chicken is all that’s served in this cosy corner tavern, along with sides of coleslaw and mayonnaise-filled potato salad. The crisp, salty skin gives you another reason for quaffing yet another beer or wine. For a few euros, you get a lot of wood-paneled atmosphere.QH‑4, Leuschnerdamm 25, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 614 77 30, www.henne-berlin.de. Open Tues-Sat from 19:00; Sun 17:00-22:00. Mon closed. €€. N­G­B­S

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

PAGODE Simply one of the best Thai restaurants in town. It feels crowded, steamy and noisy, but that’s just part of the authentic selfservice atmosphere; wait till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are flown in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. VBS

KARTOFFELPFANNE The best-tasting potatoes in Berlin, Wiener Schnitzel and vanilla pudding with Rote Grütze (fruit sauce) are all found at the Pfanne. The good beer selection includes Warsteiner and Weihenstephan.QF‑5, Burgherrenstraße 11, Tempelhof, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 892 59 49, www.kartoffelpfanne.de. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €-€€. T­U­N­G­B­S­W

December 2016 - January 2017

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Kreuzberg

THAIRESTAURANT traditional healthy Thai cuisine fresh and dainty

Sarod’s

ASIAN KIMCHI PRINCESS Though this is not Berlin’s first Korean restaurant, Kimchi Princess is being hailed by the capital’s gourmets as the first one to serve authentic dishes – that is, not drowned in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. It’s indeed excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be difficult to find a free table in the evening.QH‑4, Skalitzer Straße 36, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02 03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBSW KIM QUI The popular ‘golden turtle’ serves authentic Vietnamese food in pleasant surroundings at incredibly good prices, with delicious hot pho soup dishes. Hot and cold rice and noodle meals are complemented by fruity shakes and exotic ice cream desserts.QF‑2, Oranienstraße 168, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 27 58 31 68, www.kim-qui.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. €. T­N ­G ­B ­S

Open daily 12:00-24:00 Sundays from 14:00 Friesenstraße 22 tel. 69 50 73 33 www.sarods.de 50 Berlin In Your Pocket

KINNAREE THAI Named after a mythological creature representing female beauty and grace, Kinnaree is a friendly and affordable Thai restaurant serving everything from Satay Gai chicken skewers in peanut sauce to spicy green curry with shrimps and bamboo. There’s a range of cocktails and quality wines too.QSüdstern 14, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 57 79 41 99, www.kinnaree-thai.de. Open 12:00–23:00, Sat 13:00– 23:00. SAROD’S Kreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent, healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat with roast rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good selection of wines too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. TGBSW berlin.inyourpocket.com


Kreuzberg AUSTRIAN AUSTRIA Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and antlers on the wall.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 30, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www. austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUBS RIEHMERS The elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves a fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope), amongst seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes with roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and simple, while the calm summer terrace in the garden overlooks a historic apartment complex for Prussian officers.QF‑5, Hagelbergerstraße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmers-restaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€-€€€. T­G­B­S­W

FAST FOOD CURRY 36 If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, you’ll order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you might earn an iota of respect from the hardboiled Fraus who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin specialities you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables are the fried burgers, Boulette.QF‑5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www.curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. €. S GLÜCK TO GO This unusual fast-food restaurant was inspired by a trip to India’s Gujarat province and serves happiness to go: delicious protein-rich vegetarian/vegan burgers, fries with ayurvedic spices, and healthy juice concoctions; all home-made with organic and regionally sourced ingredients. The delicious Orient Express burger has beet root, spices and special date chutney, and there’s three other burgers to choose from. Finish off with a low-fat Shrikhand yoghurt. Set menus from €6-8,50.QF‑5, Friesenstraße 26, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 623 10 04, www.glueck-togo.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-20:00. €. B

INDIAN AAPKA Tasty and affordable Indian curries, rice and tandoori dishes, lassi and desserts in an orange-coloured space overlooking a lively street crossing and the Landwehrkanal. The Sunday brunch, from 11:00, is especially recommended, but book a table.QMaybachufer 23, Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 30 613 55 47, www.aapka.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €€. A­B facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Fantastic Berliner Currywurst, quality organic and vegan snacks, and a range of hot chili sauces. Open daily 12:00-24:00 Sunday 12:00-21:00 Bergmannstraße 88 Berlin-Kreuzberg www.bergmann-curry.com AMAR A large, cosy restaurant with modern furnishings, Indian elements and big windows overlooking the terrace, filled with eating locals and visitors in summertime. Amar serves attractive Indian weekday lunch menus from just €4.40, and delicious dinner courses, just as spicy as you need it to be. After dinner, the cocktail menu usually convinces the young clientele to stay longer. One of the most famous and beloved Restaurant for good food, service, atmosphere and cheep prices.QI‑4, Schlesische Straße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 69 56 66 73, www.amar-berlin.de. Open 11:30-01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. €€. T­U­N­G­B­S

BERGMANN CURRY A friendly fast food joint with quality organic Currywurst, fries, meat balls and more. The menus include the upmarket ‘Rockefella’ dish (served on porcelain, with a glass of champagne), and there’s vegan wurst and burgers, and sweet potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot chilli sauce from the bottles on the ‘board of pain’.QBergmannstraße 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmann-curry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. December 2016 - January 2017

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Kreuzberg WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE Within a historic market hall building, the rustic Markthalle restaurant is long and tall, with wainscoting, simple wooden furniture and a bar that locals belly up to. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t let its looks carry it: the kitchen takes pride in its nouvelle takes on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes weekly, but count on Spätzle, Schweinebraten (braised pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to American-style, and as late as 16:00. After dinner, check if anything is going down in the Auster Club in the cellar.QH‑4, Pücklerstraße 34, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurant-markthalle.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. B

INTERNATIONAL ANKERKLAUSE The bohemians that hang out here are late-risers who come to watch the Turkish market unfold and witness how peacefully gulls, swans and cruise boats can co-exist. On a good day, the French toast with fruit can come out looking like it’s auditioning for the Waldorf-Astoria’s buffet. The Mexican breakfast will tide you over for two meals.QH‑5, Kottbusser Damm 104, Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 30 693 56 49, www.ankerklause.de. Open 10:00-04:00, Mon 16:0004:00. €. T­U­N­G­B HOPPETOSSE An elegant white ship moored along Treptow’s Arena complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional and international meals to go with good sunset views towards Oberbaumbrücke bridge, just upstream. For daytime visitors there’s drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit up on deck to catch the sea breeze.QI‑5, Eichenstraße 4, Treptow, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 40, www.arenaberlin.de. Open 12:00-23:00. €-€€. N­G­B­S­W SAGE RESTAURANT If there’s such a thing as industrial charm, this is where to find it; a fantastically designed restaurant with starkly modern and white furnishings contrasting with raw factory bricks, peeling paint and chains. The food served is imaginative gastronomy; in summer, Sage opens earlier to serve lunch on its riverside terrace with deckchairs and a beach bar.QH‑4, Köpenicker Straße 18-20, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 755 49 40 71, www.sage-restaurant.de. Open from 18:00. Closed Mon. €€€. T­U­E­G­B­W VAN LOON Where better to eat fish than at this lovely restaurant ship, moored in the peaceful Urbanhafen habour on the Landwehrkanal: the downstairs lounge has large windows, but the view’s better from the sundeck. There’s salmon, 52 Berlin In Your Pocket

herring and smoked fish specialities as well as a range of special fish & chips. The daily menu has meat, vegetarian and vegan meals too.QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 7, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 62 93, www.vanloon.de. Open 09:00-01:00. €€. T­E­N­G­B­W

ITALIAN +39 PIÙTRENTANOVE Plus 39 is what you dial to reach Italy - but ringing won’t be necessary here as a corner of that country can be found in this cosy restaurant right opposite the Viktoriapark. Italian chefs dish up great XXL pizza, fresh pasta, risotto, homemade bread and other delicacies.QMöckernstraße 73a, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 70 09 42 06, www.piu39.de. Open 11:30 - 00:00. CALIGARI A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez neighbourhood of Neukölln, with freshly made pasta, soups, salads and deserts. They’re planning Supper Club nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things could happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neukölln, tel. +49 30 52 64 98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00 - 23:00. CICCIOLINA Dedicated to divas such as Jeff Koon’s porn star ex-wife La Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious Italian restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food, and a great terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try the Strasburgo flammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard and Tirol bacon. QH‑4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60, www.cicciolina-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €-€€. TUNGBSW GORGONZOLA CLUB An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the green outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner cocktails simply go next door to the Würgeengel bar.QH‑4, Dresdener Straße 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €. B

+39 piùtrentanove

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Kreuzberg OSTERIA N°1 Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from different parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six different lunch menus from €7.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße 71, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. B TRENTASEI Try home-made tortellini, regional ingredients, Italian wines and fresh fish specialities at Trentasei, referring to the ‘36’ nickname for this part of the district. The warmly-lit interior has a cabin feel, with plenty of brick and wood, plus old-fashioned chairs around the tables.QSkalitzer Str. 34, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 69 50 69 30, info@trentasei.de, www.trentasei.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.

JAPANESE RICE UP A tiny onigiri kiosk on the platform of the U-Bahn station sells delicious organic bento box take-away meals, consisting of nori seaweed, rice and various fillings: vegan, veg, fish or chicken. There’s coffee, chai, lemonade and smoothies too. Also in Mitte, at Friedrichstraße 114.QH‑5, Kottbusser Damm (Schönleinstraße U-Bahn station), Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 151 50 10 13 88, www.rice-up.de. Open 07:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. Closed Sun. €. S

BEER GARDENS DAS EDELWEISS The goods platform of the old Görlitzer Bahnhof train station now serves as a lovely deck-chaired terrace for the Edelweiss restaurant and café. There’s all-day breakfast, great German cuisine with seasonal and regional products, drinks, and live Jazz sessions on Tuesday nights. It’s especially well-positioned for people-watching; Görlitzer Park attracts Berlin’s most varied crowd.QH‑5, Görlitzerstraße

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Möckernstraße 73A Berlin Kreuzberg tel. +49 30 70 09 42 06 info@piu39.de Open 11:30–00:00 1-3 (Görlitzer Park), Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 07 48 58, www.edelweiss36.com. Open 09:30-02:00. €€. T­U­E­B­W GOLGATHA The most gruesome end you’ll meet at this Biergarten at the southwest end of Viktoriapark is the sunrise. Those watching their melanoma sit under the red umbrellas near the tablefootball and grill, while sunbathers go to the rooftop for a view of the playground and football field. DJ music begins most nights at 22:00 inside on the small dance floor.QF‑5, Katzbachstraße (Viktoriapark), Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 785 24 53, www.golgatha-berlin.de. Open from 10:00. €. TUBSW

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Kreuzberg BEER HOUSES DOLDEN MÄDEL BRAUGASTHAUS A fun little brewery bar named after hop flowers, with 20 craft beers on tap and many more great beers in bottles everything from Pilsener, IPA, Belgian beers and Trappist to Bock. Order the full board for 5 samplers of their best beers. There’s also cider and wine, and the varied food menu lists meals and snacks from steak and schnitzel to vegetarian dishes.QMehringdamm 80, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 77 32 62 13, info@doldenmaedel.de, www.doldenmaedel.de. Open 11:30 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:30.

CAFÉS CAFÉ AM ENGELBECKEN Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michael’s church is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was once a canal. Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond is a sunny terrace café. View of the water and the rustling tall green reeds makes this a peaceful respite from all things city while still being near the heart of Kreuzberg (and can you believe this area was once filled with rubble, and part of the Wall’s death strip?). Pizza and snacks are served and they offer a choice of cocktails.QH‑4, Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte, MU Heinrich-Heine-Straße, tel. +49 157 88 94 70 91, www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €. TUNGBSW CAFÉ RIX A fabulous café that’s completely worth the trek out to Berlin’s shabbiest and most multicultural neighbourhood. Many entertainment halls were built in this part of town, attracting thousands of Berliners at weekends. Rix is one of the last remaining entertainment halls in the area, dating from 1880 and all gold twirls, high ceilings and big mirrors. It’s just perfect for sipping coffee and munching on cake, or for a well-prepared meal. Combine it with a concert at the adjacent Heimathafen or a visit to Rixdorf’s old village square and the lush Körnerpark.QKarl-Marx-Straße 141, Neukölln, MU Karl-Marx-Straße, tel. +49 30 686 90 20, www.caferix.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TUNGBSW SALON SCHMÜCK A crash-pad style neighbourhood café that looks like a time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The food is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast, lunch and fantastic home-made juice - just make your own selection of fruit. Come evening and there are cocktails and DJs, and even the occasional living room concert.QI‑4, Skalitzer Straße 80, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 69 00 47 75, www.salon-schmueck.de. Open 09:0002:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-05:00. €. T­N­G­B­S­W

Read more reviews online: berlin.inyourpocket.com 54 Berlin In Your Pocket

Nightlife BARS FREISCHWIMMER After a five-minute walk south of Schlesisches Tor, follow the bush-lined pathway left after the petrol station to this peaceful bar that hovers over a side canal. In summer use the comfy deck lounges; in cooler weather heat lamps help keep away the chill.QI‑5, Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 07 43 09, www.freischwimmer-berlin. de. Open Mo-Fri from 12:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. TUENGBW GALANDER A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF‑4, Grossbeerenstraße 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E MILCHBAR It is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to cheer on their teams when football games are screened. The murals and dark décor can heighten your wooziness if you’ve had one round too many.QH‑4, Manteuffelstraße 41, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611 70 06, www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00. NBW ROSES It’s all so tactile here - both the fuzzy red walls and people packed end to end in this tiny kitsch-o-mat. The music is clubby and the upbeat energy makes it a good choice for a solo night out. The ladies behind the bar are favourites of Siegessäule, the local gay listings magazine.QH‑4, Oranienstraße 187, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 65 70. Open 22:0004:00. WÜRGEENGEL Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuel’s film El Ángel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50 reasons to delay your departure. To round it all off, there are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH‑4, Dresdener Straße 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00. €€. B berlin.inyourpocket.com


Kreuzberg CLUBS JUNCTION BAR Squeezing onto the bat-cave of a stage is fine for a four-man blues band, but dios mio for the tenpiece Afro-Cuban ensembles. Live music draws an ethnically and generationally mixed audience every night of the week. After the band, a DJ keeps everyone tight on the dance floor.QF‑5, Gneisenaustraße 18, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 66 02, www.junction-bar.de. Open 20:00-04:00. E­N ­G ­B SO36 Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution that’s home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks and metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans. On popular club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party or Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the friendly door staff.QH‑4, Oranienstraße 190, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www. so36.de. Check their website for opening times. UENG WATERGATE This club right on the edge of the Spree River is great for spying on Universal Music headquarters across the water, even if the crowd here would never dance to their pop artists. Also in view (and right next door) is the turreted Oberbaumbrücke, which makes an odd backdrop to techno, house, or any guest DJ on the upper or lower dance floors.QI‑4, Falckensteinstraße 49, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 28 03 94, www.watergate.de. Open Wed, Fri, Sat from 24:00. Admission €812. U­E­N­G­B WILD AT HEART Rock on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs for the stage area.QH‑5, Wiener Straße 20, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB

JAZZ CLUBS YORCKSCHLÖSSCHEN This Kreuzberg institution has been here for over a century, gathering fame in the 1970s as an artists’ watering hole and now a hub of local social life. There’s a busy bar that features regular live music, with the emphasis on traditional jazz, swing and black rhythm’n’blues. Concerts take place on Wed, Fri and Sat night and Sun afternoon. Diner here is very nicely priced.QF‑5, Yorckstraße 15, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 215 80 70, www. yorckschloesschen.de. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 03:00. €€. T­E­B­S­W facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

BERLIN IN BOOKS BERLIN COMPANION One of Berlin’s most fascinating aspects is the sheer endless number of amazing and tragic stories that illuminate the city’s past and present importance. Blogs delight in uncovering the weird and wonderful tales, none better than Kreuzberged.com, whose creator has now published “Notmrsparker’s Berlin Companion – or I Didn’t Know That About Berlin’. Her collection of Berlin facts and trivia includes everything you need to know about the names of streets and districts, remarkable buildings, public transport (ever heard of the Magnet-Bahn?), wonderful things invented in Berlin (computers, seamless condoms and artificial limbs!), illumination (30,000 gaslights), tunnels (and the bunkers beneath Viktoriapark) and of course stories concerning East and West. Essential reading for the heaps of mindboggling trivia. ‘Notmrsparker’s Berlin Companion’ (2016, ISBN 9783864605284) by Beata Gontarczyk-Krampe is for sale for €19 at via www.book-on-demand.de/ shop/14931 and www.amazon.de.

Sightseeing MUSEUMS DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM One of Berlin’s best museums is unmistakably recognisable by the Douglas C‑47 plane suspended above the main building. The huge complex set in and around an old freight station rail depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes, computers, phones, radios and much more. Outside there are windmills and a brewery. There’s a hands-on Spectrum science centre for children too.QF‑4, Trebbiner Straße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40, www.sdtb. de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,5. GAME SCIENCE CENTER The new Game Science Center is a small, interactive museum of the future, run by a team of game developers. Introducing a number of innovative technologies and playful projects, visitors can learn about and try many new ways to interact with computers - for example with gestures or eye movements. Try out the Oculus Rift VR glasses, the Nagual Dance installation, or play table tennis with the computer in Pong Invaders.QCharlottenstr. 1, Kreuzberg, www.gamesciencecenter.de. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission €14/8. December 2016 - January 2017

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Kreuzberg HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE A homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks, tools, videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunneldigging attest to necessity and desire being the mother of invention. Visit this museum for dramatic stories of separated lovers, freedom-seeking families, and fedup senior citizens in the GDR who breached the Wall. The museum also has art interpreting the concrete division of the city, and an exhibit on human rights movements.QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 43-45, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 251 20 75, www.mauermuseum.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission €12,50/9,50. JÜDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many ways in which German life and Jewish history are intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’ for contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF‑4, Lindenstraße 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2,50, special exhibitions €4/2, combined ticket €7/3,50. MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this is the work of Martin Gropius, great uncle of Walter Gropius, a founder of the Bauhaus school of design. The building was completed in 1881 and originally served as a royal art museum. Like most of central Berlin, it ended the war in a badly damaged state and wasn’t re-opened until 1981. Today, under the auspices of the Berliner Festspiele, the MartinGropius-Bau hosts excellent touring exhibitions.QF‑4, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars are all that remain of the palace housing the Reich Security (SS) Office. The fascinating exhibition in the trench and the adjacent pavilion and park uses models, texts and photos to highlight the topography of the Third Reich police, military and security groups that were headquartered in this area, and discusses their organisation and the terror they cast across Europe. The most important lesson to take home is perhaps that these organisation only managed to thrive thanks to the continuous cooperation of many institutes and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF‑4, Niederkirchnerstraße 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission free.

PARKS & GARDENS TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT Berlin’s most amazing space is this historic and wide open airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed in 2008 and 56 Berlin In Your Pocket

was opened as a park in 2010. Now the runways and taxi lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters and kiteboarders. There’s even a Biergarten at the northern end. Note that turnstiles allow exit from the park after closing time as well. Also easily accessed from U-Bahn stations Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse.QF/G‑6, Columbiadamm, MS/U Tempelhof, www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open March 06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May & Aug 06:0021:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00-19:00, Dec, Jan 07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00. Admission free. VIKTORIAPARK Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the corner of Kreuzbergstraße and Großbeerenstraße for an eyeful of the park’s waterfall, constructed in the late 19th century. Kids stripped to their knickers wade in between the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres above, people lean back against the graffiti-laden monument to take in the panoramic view. Towards the back of the park, past a playground and off the Bacci field, is the Golgotha beer garden. Running parallel to Kreuzbergstraße is a small petting zoo where children and goats get to meet and bleat.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm.

Shopping BOOKS BUCHHANDLUNG MORITZPLATZ A good selection of quality books on Berlin, literature, art and architecture. The wonderful Aufbau Haus also has artist’s equipment and a café.QG‑4, Prinzenstraße 85 (Aufbau Haus), Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 61 67 52 70, www.buchhandlung-moritzplatz.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION AND SHOES KONZEPT86 A concept store inside the hip The Wye art house, with unique and high-quality clothes for women and men, accessories and shoes by Berlin-based designers.QH‑4, Skalitzer Straße 86 (The Wye), Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, contact@konzept86.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

JEWELLERY SOUS & CHROBOK The workshop and atelier of jewellery artists Susanne Sous and Kamila Chrobok allows visitors to see the manufacturing process as well as the dazzling final results. Minimalist, patterned and colourful rings, necklaces and accessories are available - including some intriguing intentionally misformed rings.QKreuzbergstr. 26, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 52 28 51 22. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. berlin.inyourpocket.com


City tours

B ERLINER U NTERWELTEN E.V.

Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture

Berlin from below Cold War and WW II bunker tours

Different underground tours • Mar – Nov daily • Dec – Feb Thur – Mon • Subway Gesundbrunnen (U8), Brunnenstr. 105 • www.berliner-unterwelten.de Anzeige in your pocketcorner 2011.indd 1 though you’ll need There’s a story on every in Berlin, a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city and attractions are fairly far-flung, so plan your itinerary well. If you’re here for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings.

BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS BERLIN CITY TOUR Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about two hours; the green ones have live English commentary; red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfürstendamm 14,

BERLIN UNDERWORLDS

‘Berlin Underworlds’ allows you to experience Berlin’s history from an unusual perspective, through its underground installations dating back to the Cold War, World War II and earlier. Though predominantly in the spaces below Berlin´s Gesundbrunnen station, tours are also offered in several other complexes usually not accessible to the public. The following tours are held in English; check the website for all dates and times, and for tours in German, Spanish, Dutch, French, Italian and Danish. Tours take 90 minutes, the M tour is 2 hours. Tour 1, Dark Worlds: a bunker from the Nazi era. Tour 2, From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris: visit the the rubble-filled Humboldthain Flak Tower, a devastated albeit fascinating underground world. Tour 3, Subways, Bunkers, Cold War: a political history of Berlin from an unusual perspective. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

16.02.15 08:52 the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on or hop-off as you like. There’s also a narrated ‘Wall & Lifestyle’ tour taking in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49 30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets €15/12/5.

CITY CIRCLE BUSES Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours. Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen languages. Kurfürstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are the two main starting points, but you can get on and off at some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are Tour M, Breaching the Berlin Wall: subterranean escapes from East Berlin to West Berlin. Unterwelten also has a fascinating seasonal exhibition about the Nazi’s megalomanic plans to turn Berlin into the Welthauptstadt Germania, the ‘World Capital City’, with documents, photos and models. The multimedia exhibition “Myth of Germania – Vision and crime” allows visitors to peek inside Hitler’s mind and explore the complex topic of his city planning , and see what came of the plans. BERLINER UNTERWELTEN, Brunnenstraße 105 (Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station, southern entrance), tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17. Tours €11/9, tour M €14/11. No reservation required, but check tour times and languages online at www.berliner-unterwelten.de. “Myth of Germania” exhibition open Apr-Oct, ThuSun 11:00-18:00, Nov-Mar Sat & Sun 11:00-16:00, admission €6/5, €3 in combination with a tour, www.mythos-germania.de.

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City tours Berliner Bären Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX Sightseeing (www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus Verkehr Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www.berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets €22/11. Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) €16,50/11. LINO CITY TOURS Cruise around Berlin’s main sights in style, seated in an open-top Piaggio Ape Calessino vehicle. Knowledgeable guides drive these cute Italian three-wheeled cars around the city, offering general one-hour highlights tours to longer tailor-made trips around Berlin’s most interesting suburbs. Call to book, or look for them on Pariser Platz near Brandenburger Tor.Qtel. +49 30 80 57 84 70, www.lino-city-tours.com. Tours from €25 per person.

WALKING & CYCLING TOURS ALTERNATIVE BERLIN TOURS After the 4-hour Real Berlin tour (daily at 12:00, €12) you’ll know all about Berlin’s subcultures, the graffiti and stencil art, street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the gay scene, and the squatter and anti-fascist movements. Knowledgeable resident artists poke at Berlin’s dark, fuzzy underbelly on a variety of walks; there are also free short walks (daily at 11:00 and 13:00), twilight tours, a street art workshop and an ‘anti-pubcrawl’. QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162 819 82 64, www.alternativeberlin.com. Tickets €10-20.

BERLIN LOCALS Tailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by limo, lead by local German historians who can often relate historical events to their family’s personal experience. Tour themes range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich to street art, railways and architecture. The guides are also licenced for Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are in English or German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, info@ berlinlocals.com, www.berlinlocals.com. Tours €40 per hour, €250 per day. INBERLIN TOURS Specialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at fixed times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, info@inberlin.de, www.inberlin.de. Tickets €10-16. ISHERWOOD’S NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable ‘Sodom on the Spree’ with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous club and revue theatre scene - in explosive political circumstances. The young gay British writer Christopher Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye To Berlin (of Cabaret movie fame). This excellent one-hour tour through Isherwood’s Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is spiced up with quotes and references to notorious 1920s party-goers like Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich. QD‑4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42, brendan@10777tours.com, www.cabaret-berlin.com. Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand. Book ahead. Tickets €15. ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKS The daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at 10.30 and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third Reich, Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.Qtel. +49 30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets €12/10.

CHARTERTRIPS ON HISTORICAL BOATS ... e.g. Moonlight-Trips with Aphrodite or Oskar 10245 Berlin-Stralau, near Tunnelstrasse 36 Tel. (030) 246 47 99 60 www.schiffskontor.de

58 Berlin In Your Pocket

SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURS The Berlin blog dedicated to ‘slow travel’ offers quirky cultural-historical tours. In small groups you explore Berlin’s most fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in West Berlin, a walk on Kreuzberg’s wild west side, a trip along the Wall, down lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march through Kaiser Wilhelm’s Berlin.Qwww.slowtravelberlin. com/tours. Tickets €15.

RIVER TOURS MS SCHIFFSKONTOR Rent an antique boat and sail just about anywhere on Berlin’s waterways. There’s the rustic open-top Oskar from 1930, or rent the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink beauty from 1950 in which you’ll look dashing with dark sunglasses and a flowing scarf.Qtel. +49 30 246 47 99 60, www.schiffskontor.de. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Wellness

Oderberger Stadtbad | © Martin Nicholas Kunz

With dozens of wellness centres, Berliners are spoiling themselves like never before. A day-pass at most places means at least a work-out with state-of-theart machines, swimming pool, whirlpool and sauna, if not three. To that you can add massages of every imaginable kind (from ‘deep tissue’ for the particularly tense, to oriental, aromatic candle-lit or bubble massages… and then some) and then a mid-way ‘relaxation room’ where you can lay back and slowly prepare to return to the real world. Go on, get soaked. Berlin In Your Pocket is not responsible for wrinkly fingers.

SPA LIQUIDROM Try out ‘urban bathing’ at this combination of a deluxe spa with quirky extras. Apart from the impressive domed warm salt water pool there are saunas and Roman baths, a sunny Japanese terrace with an onsen bath, massages and a hamam ceremony. Float around to a relaxing light and music show with live music performed on Thursdays to Saturdays. Music includes DJ sets, Jazz, electronic music, harp and didgeridoo. QF‑4, Möckernstrasse 10, Kreuzberg, MS Anhalter Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 258 00 78 20, www.liquidromberlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Admission from €19,50 for 2 hours. facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

SALTERO SALZ SPA Two sparkling white salt rooms create a healthy recuperative environment for curing ailments (especially for asthma patients) – though you can also just relax there while undergoing 30-45 minute of halotherapy.QLietzenburger Str. 54, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 176 70 09 91 25, www.saltero.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. VABALI A corner of Indonesia in Berlin, Vabali is a luxurious Balinese-style spa and wellness centre just north of the Hauptbahnhof station with saunas, pools, garden, rest areas, many optional treatments, a restaurant and even DaySpa suites.QSeydlitzstr. 6, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 911 48 60, www.vabali.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00. From €20,50 for 2hrs.

SWIMMING POOLS ODERBERGER STADTBAD After being out of service for three decades, the beautiful and historical Oderberger baths have been renovated, and supplemented by a spa and hotel. The 20-metre pool is open five days per week for swimmers; check the opening hours beforehand.QOderberger Str. 57, Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 30 81 82 80 76 76, www.hotel-oderberger. berlin. Admission pool €6/4, with sauna €19/15. December 2016 - January 2017

59


Directory & Street Register BUSINESS CONNECTIONS AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QCharlottenstraße 42, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 28 87 89 20, www.amcham.de. DEUTSCHE INDUSTRIE-UND HANDELSKAMMER (CHAMBER OF COMMERCE) QBreite Straße 29, Mitte, MU Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 20 30 80, www.dihk.de.

EMBASSIES AUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstraße 76-79, Mitte, MU Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, www.australian-embassy.de. IRELAND QF-3, Jägerstraße 51, Mitte, MU Hausvogteiplatz, tel. +49 30 22 07 20, www.embassyofireland.de.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Emergencies, ambulance, fire tel. +49 30 112; Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31; Police tel. +49 30 110; Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64.

HOSPITALS BENJAMIN FRANKLIN CLINICAL CENTRE QKlingsorstraße, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel. +49 30 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de. CHARITÉ UNIVERSITÄTSKLINIKUM QF-3, Schumannstraße 20-21, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 45 050, www.charite.de.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS

UNITED KINGDOM QF-3, Wilhelmstraße 70-71, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 45 70, www.britischebotschaft.de.

BERLITZ MITTE QF-3, Friedrichstraße 95, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 204 21 24, www.berlitz.de/de/berlin_mitte.

USA American Citizen Services: tel. 832 92 33.QF-3, Pariser Platz 2, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 830 50, www.usembassy.de.

GLS QG-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 78 00 89 16, www.gls-german-courses.de.

Ackerstraße F/G‑2 Adalbertstraße H‑4 Admiralstraße G/H‑5 Albrechtstraße F‑3 Alexanderplatz G‑3 Alexanderstraße G‑3 Alexanderufer F‑2/3 Alexandrinenstraße F‑4 Alt-Moabit C‑3/E‑3 Alte Jakobstraße F‑4 Alte Schönhauser Straße G‑2 Altonaer Straße D‑3 Am Friedrichshain H‑2 Am Karlsbad F‑4 Am Kupfergraben F‑3 Am Ostbahnhof H‑4 Anhalter Straße F‑4 Arndtstraße F‑5 Augsburger Straße C/D‑4 Auguststraße F/G‑2 Axel-Springer-Straße F‑4 Barnimstraße H‑2/3 Baruther Straße F‑5 Bayerischer Platz D‑5 Bebelplatz F‑3 Behrenstraße F‑3 Belforter Straße G/H‑2 Bergmannstraße F/G‑5 Bernauer Straße F/G‑1/2 Bethaniendamm H‑4 Beusselstraße C‑2 Bismarckstraße B/C‑3/4 Bleibtreustraße C‑4 Blücherstraße F/G‑5 Bodestraße F‑3 Bötzowstraße H/I‑2 Brandenburger Tor F‑3 Breitscheidplatz C‑4 Brückenstraße H‑3/4 Brunnenstraße F/G‑1/2 Bülowstraße E‑4/5 Bundesallee C‑4/6 Charlottenstraße F‑3/4 Chausseestraße F‑2 Choriner Straße G‑2 Christinenstraße G‑2 Danziger Straße G‑1/I‑2

60 Berlin In Your Pocket

Dorotheenstraße F‑3 Dresdener Straße G‑4 Dunckerstraße H‑1 Ebertstraße F‑3 Engeldamm H‑4 Erkelenzdamm F‑4 Ernst-Reuter-Platz C‑3 Fasanenstraße C‑4/5 Fehrbelliner Straße G‑2 Fischerinsel G‑3 Französische Straße F‑3 Friedensstraße H‑2/3 Friedrichstraße F‑3/4 Gartenstraße F‑1/2 Gendarmenmarkt F‑3 Georgenkirchstraße H‑2/3 Georgenstraße F‑3 Gertraudenstraße G‑3 Geschw.-Scholl-Straße F‑3 Gipsstraße G‑2 Gitschiner Straße F‑4 Glinkastraße F‑3 Gneisenaustraße F/G‑5 Görlitzer Straße H/I‑4/5 Görlitzer Ufer I‑5 Gormannstraße G‑2 Greifswalder Straße H/I‑1/2 Grolmannstraße C‑4 Großbeerenstraße F‑5 Große Hamburger Straße G‑2/3 Gruner Straße G‑3 Hallesches Ufer F‑4 Hardenbergplatz C‑4 Heidestraße E‑2 Heinrich-Heine-Straße F‑4 Heinrichplatz H‑4 Hohenstaufenstraße D‑5 Immanuelkirchstraße H‑2 Invalidenstraße E‑3/G‑2 Johannisstraße F‑3 John-Foster-Dulles-Allee E‑3 Kaiserdamm A/B‑4 Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee B/C‑2 Kantstraße B/C‑4 Karl-Liebknecht-Straße G‑3 Karl-Marx-Allee G/H/I‑3 Kastanienallee G‑2

Kl. Hamburger Straße F‑2 Kleiststraße D/E‑4 Knaackstraße H‑2 Knesebeckstraße C‑4 Kochstraße F‑4 Kollwitzplatz H‑2 Kollwitzstraße G/H‑2 Konstanzer Straße B‑4/5 Köpenicker Straße H/I‑4 Kottbusser Damm H‑5 Kottbusser Straße H‑5 Krausnickstraße G‑3 Kreuzbergstraße F‑5 Kurfürstendamm A‑5/C‑4 Kurfürstenstraße D/E‑4 Landsberger Allee H/I‑2 Lausitzer Straße H‑4/5 Legiendamm H‑4 Leipziger Platz F‑4 Leipziger Straße F/G‑4 Leuschnerdamm H‑4 Lindenstraße F/G‑4 Linienstraße F/G‑2 Lobeckstraße F‑4 Luisenstraße F‑2/3 Lützowufer D/E‑4 Manteuffelstraße H‑4/5 Marburger Straße D‑4 Mariannenplatz H‑4 Marienstraße F‑3 Markgrafenstraße F‑3/4 Martin-Luther-Straße D‑4/6 Matthäikirchstraße E‑4 Mauerstraße F‑3/4 Maybachufer H‑5 Mehringdamm F‑5 Mehringplatz F‑4 Meinekestraße C‑4 Melchiorstraße H‑4 Metzer Straße G/H‑2 Mittelstraße F‑3 Möckernstraße F‑4/5 Mohrenstraße F‑3 Molkenmarkt G‑3 Mollstraße H‑2/3 Mommsenstraße B/C‑4 Monbijoustraße F‑3

Motzstraße C/D‑4/5 Mühlendamm G‑3 Mühlenstraße H/I‑4 Mulackstraße G‑2 Museumsinsel F‑3 Muskauer Straße H‑4 Niederkirchnerstraße F‑4 Niederwallstraße F‑3 Nollendorfstraße D/E‑5 Oberbaumstraße I‑4 Olivaer Platz B‑4 Oranienburger Straße F/G‑2/3 Oranienplatz F‑4 Oranienstraße F/G‑4 Otto-Braun-Straße G/H‑3 Otto-Suhr-Allee B/C‑3 Pappelallee G/H‑1 Pariser Platz F‑3 Paul-Lincke-Ufer H‑5 Perleberger Straße D/E‑2 Platz der Vereinten Nationen H‑3 Platz vor dem Neuen Tor F‑2 Potsdamer Platz E‑4 Potsdamer Straße E‑4/5 Prenzlauer Allee H‑1/2 Prinzenstraße F‑4 Pücklerstraße H‑4 Puschkinallee I‑5 Quedlinburger Straße B‑3 Rathausstraße G‑3 Reichenberger Straße G‑4/I‑5 Reichpietschufer E‑4 Reichstagufer F‑3 Reinhardtstraße F‑3 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz G‑2 Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße G‑2/3 Rosenthaler Straße G‑2/3 Rykestraße H‑2 Saarbrücker Straße G‑2 Savignyplatz C‑4 Schiffbauerdamm F‑3 Schloßplatz F‑3 Schloßstraße B‑3 Schlüterstraße C‑4 Schöneberger Straße F‑4 Schöneberger Ufer E‑4 Schönhauser Allee G‑1/2

Schönleinstraße H‑5 Schumannstraße F‑3 Seydelstraße F‑4 Simon-Dach-Straße I‑4 Skalitzer Straße G‑4/I‑4 Sophienstraße G‑2/3 Spandauer Damm A/B‑3 Spandauer Straße G‑3 Sredzkistraße H‑2 Stralauer Allee I‑4 Stralauer Platz H‑4 Stralauer Straße G‑3 Straßburger Straße G‑2 Straße der Pariser Kommune I‑3/4 Straße des-17. Juni C/E‑3 Stresemannstraße F‑4 Südstern G‑5 Tauentzienstraße D‑4 Tieckstraße F‑2 Tiergartenstraße D/E‑4 Torstraße F/G‑2 Tucholsky-Straße F‑3 Turmstraße C/D‑2 Uhlandstraße C‑4/5 Unter den Linden F‑3 Urbanstraße G/H‑5 Veteranenstraße G‑2 Voßstraße F‑4 Wadzeckstraße G/H‑3 Waldemarstraße H‑4 Wallstraße F/G‑4 Warschauer Platz I‑4 Warschauer Straße I‑3/4 Wassertorplatz F‑4 Weinbergsweg G‑2 Weinstraße H‑2/3 Werderstraße F‑3 Wiener Straße H/I‑4/5 Wilhelmstraße F‑3/4 Winterfeldtplatz D‑5 Winterfeldtstraße D/E‑5 Wörther Straße G/H‑2 Yorckstraße E/F‑5 Zimmerstraße F‑4 Zinnowitzer Straße F‑2 Zionskirchstraße G‑2 Zossener Straße F‑5

berlin.inyourpocket.com


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Index +39 piùtrentanove 52 Aapka 51 Adlon Kempinski 30 Admiralspalast 12 Adria 14 Aigner 23 Alexa Centre 30 Alliiertenmuseum 39 Alpenstueck 21 Alte Nationalgalerie 28 Alternative Berlin Tours 58 Altes Museum 28 Altes Zollhaus 49 Amar 51 Ankerklause 52 Anna Blume 46 April 33 Astro-bar 43 Aufsturz 24 August Fengler 46 Austria 51 Babylon Mitte 14 Barcomi's Deli 24 Berghain 43 Bergmann Curry 51 Berlin, Berlin 40 Berlin City Tour 57 Berliner Dom 27 Berliner Hof Am Tauentzien 40 Berlinische Galerie 55 Berlin Locals 58 Berlin Plaza 40 Black Box Cold War 28 Blue Man Group 14 Borchardt 23 Brandenburger Tor 26 Brecht Keller 22 Bröhan Museum 39 Buchhandlung Moritzplatz 56 Café am Engelbecken 54 Café am Neuen See 36 Café im Literaturhaus 36 Cafe Kalwil 36 Café Rix 54 Caligari 52 Central Kino 14 Christmas Eco-Market Sophienstrasse 10 Cicciolina 52 CineStar IMAX & Original 14 City Circle Buses 57 C/O Berlin 39 Cocolo 24 Computerspielemuseum 43 Crack Bellmer 43 Cupcake Berlin 42 Curry 36 51 Daimler Contemporary Berlin 28 Das Edelweiss 53 Das Stue 39 Der Mauerwinzer 25 Deutsche Oper Berlin 19 Deutscher Dom 27 Deutsches Currywurst Museum 28 Deutsches Historisches Museum 29 Deutsches Technikmuseum 55 Deutsch-Russisches Museum 43 Diekmann 35 Die Schule 45

66 Berlin In Your Pocket

Dolden Mädel Braugasthaus 54 Dressler 35 Duke 36 Einhorn 36 El Dorado 36 Ellington Hotel 40 English Theatre Berlin 15 Eschschloraque Rümschrümp 25 Eventim 12 Facil 23 Fernsehturm 30 First Floor 34 Fischers Fritz 23 Fleischlust 45 Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 47 Francucci's 36 Französischer Dom 27 Freischwimmer 54 Friedrichstadt-Palast 14 Führerbunker 27 Galander 54 Game Science Center 55 Geburtstagsklub 46 Gedächtniskirche 38 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer 29 Gemäldegalerie 29 Glory Duck 42 Glück To Go 51 Golgatha 53 Gorgonzola Club 52 Green Door 37 Grenander Morning Glory 37 Grosz 35 Grüner Salon 25 Gudrun Sjödén 30 Gugelhof 45 Hackesche Höfe 14 Hamburger Bahnhof 29 Hard Rock Cafe 34 Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 56 Hefner 38 Hekticket 12 Henne 49 Hilton 31 Honigmond & Garden Hotels 31 Hoppetosse 52 Hotel de Rome 31 House of Weekend 25 Hugos 35 InBerlin Tours 58 InterContinental 39 Isherwood's Neighbourhood Tour 58 Jolly 22 Jüdisches Museum Berlin 56 Junction Bar 55 Kaffee Burger 25 Kamala 22 Kartoffelpfanne 49 Kaufbar 42 Kempinski Bristol 39 Keule 41 Kilkenny Irish Pub 26 Kimchi Princess 50 Kim Qui 50 Kinnaree Thai 50 Kino in der KulturBrauerei 14 Knese 33 Koka 36 12 Komische Oper 12

Konnopke's Imbiß 45 Konzept86 56 Konzerthaus Berlin 12 Kookaburra Comedy Club 15 Kulturbrauerei 47 KunstHalle 29 Le Petit Royal 35 Lino City Tours 58 Liquidrom 59 Locanda 36 Lutter & Wegner 23 Macondo 42 Mandala 31 Marriott 31 Martin-Gropius-Bau 56 Matrix 43 Mauerpark 47 Maximilians 21 Mein Haus am See 25 Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe 28 MeMu Menschen Museum 29 Metzer Eck 45 Milchbar 54 MS Schiffskontor 58 Museum für Asiatische Kunst 39 Museum für Film und Fernsehen 30 Museum für Naturkunde 30 Mutter Hoppe 21 Neues Museum 28 Neue Synagoge 26 Nikolaiviertel 26 Nola's am Weinberg 23 Nostalgic Christmas Market 10 Oderberger Stadtbad 59 Olympic Stadium 38 Original Berlin Walks 58 Osteria N°1 53 Otito 22 Ottenthal 34 Pagode 49 Palace 39 Panorama Café 22 Panoramapunkt 29 Papagena 12 Paris-Moskau 23 Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz 31 Patio 23 Pergamon Museum 28 Pizzeria i Due Forni 46 Postbahnhof Club 43 Potsdamer Platz 26 Precise Myer's 44 Quatsch Comedy Club 15 Reichstag 27 Reingold 25 Reinhard's 24 Renger-Patzsch 33 Restaurant Schlossgarten 33 Restauration 1900 45 Rice Up 53 Riehmers 51 Ritter Sport ChocoWorld 30 Roses 54 Roter Salon 26 Rotisserie Weingrün 21 Sachiko Sushi 36 Sage Restaurant 52 Salon Schmück 54

Saltero Salz Spa 59 Samowar 36 San Diego Steakhouse 42 Santiago 46 Sarod's 50 Savoy Berlin 40 Schall und Rauch 46 Schloss Charlottenburg 38 Schneeweiß 41 Schnitzelei 34 Schöneberger Weltlaterne 33 Schwarzwaldstuben 21 Shakespeare & Sons 47 Sheraton Berlin Grand Hotel Esplanade 40 Slow Travel Berlin Tours 58 SO36 55 Soda Club 46 Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm 40 Sous & Chrobok 56 Spielbank Berlin 25 Sputnik 14 Staatsoper im Schillertheater 12 Ständige Vertretung 21 Stasi Museum 43 Stasi Prison 43 Suksan 34 Sushi Circle 24 Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm 46 Swissôtel Berlin 40 Sylter Hof 40 tausche Taschen 47 Tempelhofer Freiheit 56 The Digital Eatery 24 The Harp 38 The Wall Museum 43 Tiergarten 39 Tipi am Kanzleramt 14 Topographie des Terrors 56 Traube 24 Trentasei 53 Union Jack 38 Vabali 59 Van Long 22 Van Loon 52 Viktoriapark 56 VOX 23 Waldorf Astoria 40 Wall Panorama 30 Watergate 55 Weihenstephaner 21 Weinstein 46 Weltrestaurant Markthalle 52 Westin Grand 31 What do you fancy love? 37 Wild at Heart 55 Wintergarten Variété 14 Wohnzimmer 46 Würgeengel 54 Yorckschlösschen 55 Yosoy Tapas-Bar 24 Zillemarkt 34 Zille-Stube 21 Zimmermeister Brunzel's Mietshaus 47 Zollpackhof 24 Zum Nussbaum 22 Zur Letzten Instanz 22 Zwiebelfisch 37 Zwölf Apostel 36

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ENTERTAINMENT HIGHLIGHTS BB Promotion GmbH presents by arrangement with SLAVA and Gwenael Allan

03.-08.01.17 · Admiralspalast Berlin BB PROMOTION GMBH IN ASSOCIATION WITH STOMP PRODUCTIONS AND GLYNIS HENDERSON PRODUCTIONS PRESENTS

24. – 29.01.17 · Admiralspalast Berlin www.stomp.de

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Berlin In Your Pocket