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Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Berlin August - September 2017

Wannsee & Potsdam

The perfect Berlin day out: by boat, by bike or by train. Or all three!

Hertha 125

Berlin’s oldest football team kick off their anniversary season

inyourpocket.com N°88 - €1.75


Contents

Arriving & Transport

5

Getting around by S&U

Basics

6

Essential travel tips

Berlin’s Districts

7

Sports in Berlin 8 All about Berlin’s top teams

Culture & Events 10

Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema

Daytrips

20

Visit Söhnel Werft

Berlin Mitte

22

The delights of the city centre

SYMBOL KEY

© Anibaltrejo | Dreamstime.com

Berlin Charlottenburg & The West

36

Genteel western Berlin

Berlin Friedrichshain

43

Worker’s paradise, student’s playground

Berlin Prenzlauer Berg

45

The gentrified north

Berlin Kreuzberg

49

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

E Live music

N No credit cards

M Nearest S/U-Bahn station

City Tours

B Outside seating

G Non-smoking room

Guided walks, bike rides and drives

S Take away

R Internet

River Tours

59

Directory & Street register

60

W Wi-Fi Additional symbols for hotels P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

L Guarded parking

H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre

K Restaurant

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Dinner price guide The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level based on a main course with a glass of wine. €€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person. €€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person. €€ Middling; from €10-20 per person. € Cheap; less than €10 per person. facebook.com/InYourPocket

Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters 57

Maps & Index

61-63 64-65 66

City map Public transport map Index

BERLIN BOXES Scattered throughout the guide you’ll find boxes with more information about these topics: Berlin in Books Erasmus Student Network Food with a View Museum Insel

18 6 24 30

August - September 2017

3


Foreword Berlin is an amazing city at any time of year. In high summer, with the sun in the sky and the city’s residents in holiday mode, more relaxed than ever, it goes beyond amazing and becomes possibly the greatest place on earth. What’s more, so vast is Berlin, so many its attractions that it never feels crowded, despite half of Europe and North America often appearing to turn up. Some cities crumble under the weight of visitor numbers. Berlin thrives. Berlin is also a city that, unlike many other European capitals, packs its summer months with cultural events. Musicals, classical, pop and and rock concerts, exhibitions and festivals take place across Berlin throughout the summer and offer a wealth of opportunities for visitors looking to go beyond the museums and the regular sights. We have a definitive and quite frankly essential guide to What’s On in Berlin right here, starting on page seven.

Publisher In Your Pocket GmbH Axel-Springer-Straße 39 10969 Berlin Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81 Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50 germany@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1611-9037 Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin. Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly The public transport map is used under license no. BVG‑0079.11. Editorial Editors Craig Turp, Jeroen van Marle Research Cecilia Engvall; Layout Tomáš Haman Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG) Maps Kartographie Eichner Cover © TomasSereda | iStock

Sports fans are well taken care of too. Berlin has a number of professional sports teams and most of them are back in action this August after the summer recess. Union and Hertha - the German capital’s football teams - are the headline acts (with Hertha kicking off their 125th anniversary season) but there’s also basketball, volleyball and even international ice hockey to watch.

Sales & Circulation General Manager Stephan Krämer Production Manager Philippe Krüger Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt Advertising Managers CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de) Copyright notice & Editor’s note Text, photos and maps (unless otherwise stated) copyright In Your Pocket GmbH. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Berlin is best however simply taken as it comes. Multicultural, truly international, tolerant and open to all its wide streets were made to be explored, preferably on foot. There’s something happening on almost all of them at this time of year: an exotic new restaurant, a new beergarden, a street festival or just a busker putting a smile on everybody’s face. Berlin is where Europe comes to party, where hedonism is the only religion that counts and where just about anything goes. Get out on the streets and join in.

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4 Berlin In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Transport Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great empty vastness of northeast Germany, it’s very well connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn and air. Once in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had such good public transport.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Berlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn, underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just remember the number or colour and end station of the line you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like stations like a local. Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights, with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights. Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train services. Vending machines have instructions in English and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport. With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,80, ABC €3,40) you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier-FahrtenKarte, €9). Buy a €1,70 Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning; €7,00) or the seven-day pass (€30,00). Groups of up to five people are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €19,90). The multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (€19,5042,00) is valid for transport and some attractions. Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll be fined €60 on the spot. BVG The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www.bvg.de/en/Service.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, info@bvg.de, www.bvg.de/en.

TAXIS Berlin’s friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre is €3,40; then up to 7km it’s €1,79/km, thereafter €1,28/km. Waiting costs €25/ hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction facebook.com/InYourPocket

you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke tarriff; €4 for 2km. By the way, Funk means radio. CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de. FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, www.taxifunkberlin.de. TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de. WBT FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, www.funk-taxi-berlin.de. WÜRFEL-FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 01 01, www.wuerfelfunk.de.

CYCLING As long as it’s dry, getting around Berlin is really best done by bicycle. It’s a flat city, there are plenty of cycle paths and wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you fined, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town may take a while, though for €1,60 you can take your bike on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental places, most charging €10-12 per day. The urban bike trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-traffic and cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.

CITY CARDS Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning to travel around town a lot and see more than one museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students and youths may get better reductions at museums using their student ID cards. BERLIN WELCOMECARD The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours, etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes Potsdam and Schönefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48 hours (AB €19,50, ABC €21,50), 72 hours (€27,50/29,50), and 4 (€31,50/34,50), 5 (€35,50/40,50) or 6 days (€41,50/45,50). There’s also a 72-hour variety (€42/44) that includes free admission to the five Museumsinsel museums. Cards are sold online and from BVG ticket machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels and kiosks. The similar Berlin CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.com) is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club discounts geared towards younger travellers; a 48-hour ticket costs €17,50 for AB, €19,50 for ABC, and there are also 72 hours, 4, 5, and 6-day tickets.Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de. MUSEUM PASS BERLIN 50 museums, including the permanent collections of the Staatliche Museen (state museums), can be visited with the Berlin Museum Pass (€24/12, valid three days). It’s for sale at the museums, tourism offices and online. Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de. August - September 2017

5


Basics BASIC DATA Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725 Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km. The Spree is 403km. Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m Highest natural point of Berlin: Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m Berlin’s territory: 900 square kilometers

CRIME & SAFETY Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty crimes are low compared to other Western European capitals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walking in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom occur in Berlin’s touristed central areas.

ELECTRICITY Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and many hotels will have them at the front desk too.

ERASMUS STUDENT NETWORK How do international students get to meet locals and the city during an academic exchange? The best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network (ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student associations in Europe. It was developed to help internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36 countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam. 6 Berlin In Your Pocket

MONEY Germany uses the euro (€). Banknotes come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, whose design depends on in which country they were minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents and €1 and €2. Credit and debit card payment is possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife venues, though always have cash on you for small payments just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process. Exchange offices can be found at the major train stations.

VISAS AND ENTRY FORMALITIES EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though registration at a Bürgeramt office is officially required for stays more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90 days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply for a German visa in advance. Note that there’s no passport control between Germany and the other 14 European ‘Schengen’ countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.

CLIMATE 30

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Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately Berlin’s local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weiße, is only really palatable ‘mit Schuss’, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (‘kloob mah-tea’) ice tea, made with extract of the South American maté plant, caffeine and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to just below the top label and top it up with wodka).

Temperature °C

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berlin.inyourpocket.com


Berlin’s Districts Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, you’re still left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners often find everything they need. Public transportation is far-reaching and effective though, and you’ll grow to love it as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights: Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg.

MITTE (MI) Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel, whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. It’s on these streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery to sidewalk café, pointing out directions to tourists seeking out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass deportations of the Nazi era.

CHARLOTTENBURG (CB) If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets, crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin. Much of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the 1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufürstendamm, Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting becomes more genteel where you can’t see the buildings for the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I.

TIERGARTEN (TG) Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare park that began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around the Siegessäule (Victory Column). Slicing though the park’s length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl.

KREUZBERG (KB) Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off facebook.com/InYourPocket

© dreamstime.com

room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987 social and economic frustration exploded into violence and vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May 1st is essentially Kreuzberg’s way of reliving its 15 minutes of fame. The rest of the days are marked by backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting on the Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular drags Oranienstr. and Bergmannstr. Two major museums, the House at Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum, are planted in the staid parts of the district.

PRENZLAUER BERG (PB) On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old working-class district in the former East Berlin that came through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and along Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.). Prenzlauer Berg’s few attractions include the Vitra Design museum and a 19th-century brewery complex that is now the Kulturbrauerei culture centre. A good time to visit is Saturday when the eco-market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or Sunday when everyone sits outside being cool and eating breakfast all day.

FURTHER AFIELD Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife scene are Schöneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of Zehlendorf (ZD). August - September 2017

7


Sports in Berlin

Hertha BSC Olympiastadion | © Frankinho

Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports – the city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing five exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union, the Eisbären, Alba, Füchse and the BR Volleys. Home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlin’s stadiums; every season over two million tickets are sold. In addition, Berlin’s streets regularly host huge sports events such as the public viewing festivals during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts countless amateur sports matches. Despite being rivals, Berlin’s six professional sports collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional sports in Berlin, promoting Berlin’s image as an international sports event destination. The home matches of Berlin’s pro teams are easy to visit: you don’t need to understand German to be able to follow a match and unlike in other European countries, sports matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning it’s no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium for an afternoon or evening of fun. Finding out about which matches are playing where can be problematic for visitors however, as websites are not all available in English, and some make it difficult to find the upcoming playing dates. In the club details here we have listed all home matches for the following months, though always keep an eye on the club websites for changes or additional matches. Berlin’s official English-language sports website www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about all the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site www.eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches. 8 Berlin In Your Pocket

HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)

Berlin’s main football team plays home matches at the impressive Olympiastadion, Germany’s second largest stadium, built for the 1936 Olympic Games and renovated for the 2006 World Cup. Hertha was founded back in 1892 - so is this year celebrating its 125th anniversary - and is known as the Alte Dame, the old lady. Its most successful years were between 1926 and 1931, although Hertha did make the semi-finals of the UEFA Cup in 1979. Shortly after however, dark times hit the club, who spent much of the 1980s and early 1990s in the second division. Back in the Bundesliga this time since 2012 they now look set to stay. Last season, after their best start to a campaign ever, Hertha ended up in sixth, guaranteeing them Europa League football this coming season.QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion), Charlottenburg, MS Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets €15-89. 19.08 16:30 » VfB Stuttgart 10.09 16:30 » Werder Bremen 20.09 21:30 » Eintracht Frankfurt berlin.inyourpocket.com


Sports in Berlin EISBÄREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY) Originating in 1953 in East Germany’s Dynamo sports club, the ‘polar bears’ are Berlin’s popular professional ice hockey team. They won the national league 7 times, have also bagged the European Trophy. Their home matches at the Mercedes-Benz-Arena are true familyfests, with a festive, good-humoured atmosphere. Champions EHC Red Bull Munich snuffed Berlin’s dream of this year’s final but it could not have gotten any closer, with a 2:1 loss in overtime in a deciding 5th game. Overall the Eisbären had a good season with a great run at the end and memorable semi-finals. QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets €14-45. 18.08 19:30 » HC Ambrì-Piotta 20.08 14:00 » Sparta Praha 08.09 19:30 » Thomas Sabo Ice Tigers 17.09 14:00 » Grizzlys Wolfsburg 22.09 19:30 » Kölner Haie FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)

Nicknamed Eisern Union (Iron Union), FC Union is traditionally the working man’s Berlin team, originating in East Berlin in 1966 and often a counterweight to the GDR’s state-influenced (and very much unloved) Dynamo club. Union is still fiercely independent, based in a charming stadium, An der Alten Försterei. The club has resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem sung by punk legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium partly owned by passionate fans. Currently enjoying one of their best periods for some time under coach Jens Keller, they finished fourth in the 2. Bundesliga in 2017, narrowly missing out on promotion. They are odds-on favourites to do even better this season.QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten Försterei), Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656 68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets €12-43. 04.08 18:30 » Holstein Kiel 27.08 13:30 » Arminia Bielefeld 15.09 18:30 » Eintracht Braunschweig 25.09 21:35 » Kaiserslautern facebook.com/InYourPocket

ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL) Also known as the Albatrosse, Berlin’s basketball club is Germany’s most successful, and has the largest fanbase; home matches easily attract 10,000 spectators. Since going pro in 1991, Alba has won the German League eight times and the German Cup seven times. After a very good start to the 2016-17 season Alba tailed off towards season’s send, finishing sixth. They were then eliminated in the first round of the play-offs.QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 1805 57 00 11, www. albaberlin.de. Tickets €8-65. BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL)

Berlin’s professional volleyball team originates in the western district of Charlottenburg, but plays home matches at the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR Volleys have been particularly successful since the late 1990s, winning the German Bundesliga title six times, including 2016 and 2017. The new season begins in October with the German Supercup against VfB Friedrichshafen in Hannover. The regular season begins the following week.QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www.berlin-recycling-volleys.de. Tickets €13-16.

FÜCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL) The Foxes, Berlin’s handball team, is part of an old West Berlin sports club, and now plays home matches in Prenzlauer Berg’s Max-Schmeling-Halle, named after the boxing legend who was world champion heavyweight between 1930-32. The Füchse finished last season fourth in the Bundesliga, meaning that they will be playing European handball this coming season.QG‑1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 30 44 30, www. fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets €12-50. August - September 2017

9


Culture & Events GALLERIES

Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets - and an annual cultural budget of over €900 million to fund it all. Sports lovers can choose from a wide variety of matches played year-round.

OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC

OM-D PHOTOGRAPHY PLAYGROUND in den Berliner Opernwerkstätten © Jens Hohmann

Berlin’s museum and gallery world is constantly in flux, and perhaps now more than ever. Several large museums are closed for lengthy renovations that will last until the end of the decade, and the contemporary art scene is on the move, with artists fleeing the rising rents in the Mitte district for atelier space in outlying districts and galleries regrouping in new cultural nodes like Potsdamer Strasse. On this page we highlight a few of Berlin’s many excellent galleries and exhibitions. BERLINISCHE GALERIE This museum for modern art, photography, architecture, and artist archives concentrates a century worth of creativity forged in Berlin between 1880 and 1980. Artists represent the Secession, Expressionist, Dada, New Objectivity movements, and those representing the divided city. Giants of German art include Heinrich Zille, Otto Dix, George Grosz, Hannah Höch and Wolf Vostell.QG‑4, Alte Jakobstraße 124-128, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00, www.berlinischegalerie.de. C/O BERLIN Recently rehoused in the historical Amerika-Haus near Zoologischer Garten, the C/O gallery presents changing exhibitions of fantastic photography. The current exhibitions of protest photos by Gordon Parks and conflict photography by Broomberg & Chanarin are well worth seeing.QHardenbergstr. 22-24, tel. +49 30 284 44 16 62, www.co-berlin.org. SLOW PHOTOGRAPHY BERLIN Ukrainian artist Oleg Farynyuk photographs subjects using old techniques, especially the wetplate method which was invented in 1851 and was the first time photos could be shot with short exposure times. At the gallery and shop you can view the resulting high-quality photos, and have one made.QSlow Photography Berlin, Christinenstr. 15, tel. +49 152 17 55 00 74, www.slow-photography-berlin.com. KÖNIG GALERIE, ST. AGNES A strikingly brutalist 1967 church in Kreuzberg has been transformed into a modern art gallery for Johann König, the bare concrete walls forming the perfect background for though-provoking art.QSt Agnes, Alexandrinenstraße 118-121, tel. +49 30 26 10 30 80, www.johannkoenig.de. 10 Berlin In Your Pocket

KOMISCHE OPER Starting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the building’s monumental neo-baroque main hall survived wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF‑3, Behrenstraße 55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets €9-150. KONZERTHAUS BERLIN Together with the Deutscher and Französischer Dom churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacular architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821, it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays at the venue.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.de. Tickets €10-99. STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER The venue for Daniel Barenboim’s award-winning Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on Unter den Linden are completed.QC‑3, Bismarckstraße 110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets €14-220.

SHOWS ADMIRALSPALAST This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret, operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlin’s roaring 20s. Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private box so that he could watch his favourite operetta ‘The Merry Widow’, and Brecht tried out his new theatre here from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on plays, concerts and musicals. QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets €21-79.

ASK THE CONCIERGE Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you about current events, book tickets, make restaurant reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels of their jackets. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events DEUTSCHE OPER DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN West Berlin’s 2000-seat opera building with its excellent acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances. Originally opened in 1912 as the modern, ‘democratic’ counterpart to the royal opera house on Unter den Linden, it has a reputation for modern works and underrepresented composers. Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB‑3, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de/en_EN.

03.09 14:00 » GRAND OPENING OF THE 2017-18 SEASON

Throughout the free, festive Grand Opening the Deutsche Oper Berlin and the Staatsballett Berlin will not only be presenting excerpts from their current musical and staged productions; they will also be providing glimpses into the artistic process. A technology show will reveal what the new stage machinery is capable of and visitors will be able to try on opera stars’ costumes in the foyers and watch dancers from the Staatsballett rehearsing in the ballet studios. The open day will include workshops, concerts, mini operas, film shows and instrument presentations in rooms that are normally out of bounds to the general public. This will be your chance to familiarise yourself with everything on offer at the Deutsche Oper Berlin and the Staatsballett throughout the year – ranging from large-scale operas to the experimental musical theatre in the Tischlerei and encompassing the many activities geared to children and teenagers led by Staatsballett and the Young Opera department. Amidst all this there will be ensemble performances in the foyers by musicians of the Deutsche Oper Berlin , the Children’s Chorus will be putting on a show on Götz-Friedrich-Platz and a film lounge will play excerpts from successful past productions.QFree. TIPI AM KANZLERAMT Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for an evening in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten park. Before the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then it’s over to the artists featured that night to entertain the audience.QE‑3, Große Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de. Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00. Mon closed. Tickets €20-55. FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST No one does over-the-top better than the producers and long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast. This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest revues in town.QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 107, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.showpalace.eu. Tickets €18-106. facebook.com/InYourPocket

30.08, 02.09, 06.09, 09.09 19:30 » LA TRAVIATA

Verdi’s magnificent, timeless melodrama in three acts, sung in Italian with German and English surtitles. Salome Jicia takes the role of Violetta, Ido Arad conducts. Directed by Friedrich Götz.Q€25-95.

31.08, 30.09, 13.10, 27.12 19:30 » THE MAGIC FLUTE

A family performance of Mozart’s fairytale opera in two acts, which means that tickets for under-18s cost just €10. Q€22-95.

08.09, 22.09, 27.10, 18.11 19:30 » THE FLYING DUTCHMAN

Richard Wagner’s romantic opera in three acts. Ante Jerkunica s Daland.Q€29-95.

10.09, 16.09 18:00 » LOHENGRIN

Wagner’s romantic opera in three acts. Donald Runnicles conducts.Q€39-128.

13.09, 17.09 19:30 » LUCIA DI LAMMERMOOR

Donizetti’s dramma tragico in 3 acts. Pretty Yende is Lucia. Q€22-95.

18.09 20:00 » MUSIKFEST BERLIN IN THE PHILHARMONY

A special gala concert performance, featuring excerpts from Romeo and Juliet and The Valkyrie. The list of soloists performing includes Bryn Terfell, Anja Harteros and Allison Oakes. Donald Runnicles conducts.Q€29-95.

23.09, 29.09, 02.10, 07.10 19:30 » AIDA

Verdi’s masterpiece, with Tatiana Serjan taking the title role.Q€39-128. BLUE MAN GROUP The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as it has little spoken German, and now has been thoroughly revamped, with many new sketches and elements.QE‑4, Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows Tue - Fri 20:00; Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets from €59,90. WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉ One of Berlin’s famed variety theatres was revived here as a dinner theater. Seated around tables, you’ll enjoy a show with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more. Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are served during the break. New shows are put on several times per year.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun 18:00. Tickets €37,20-70,20. August - September 2017

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Culture & Events MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU

THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or not, come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the little black box’s stage.QF‑5, Fidicinstraße 40, Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 691 12 11, tickets@ etberlin.de, www.etberlin.de. Tickets €14-18.

Double Portrait 

© The Lucian Freud Archive, Bridgeman Images UBS Art Collection

22.07 - 22.10 » LUCIAN FREUD: CLOSER

Lucian Freud (1922-2011) was born in Berlin yet is regarded one of Britain’s most renowned artists. In 1933, being the grandson of Sigmund Freud, he was forced to leave Germany with his family and flee to the UK. His figurative works number among the masterpieces of the twentieth century. Fifty of his etchings are now being shown in Berlin for the first time, all on loan from the UBS Art Collection. Freud developed his works through the close observation of people, and his portraits are examples of intensive analytical contemplation and, at the same time, they are moving studies of transience.QF‑4, MartinGropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, €12/7, www.berlinerfestspiele.de/en. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue.

KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUB Laughing matters at this comedy club, which has alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights every month: Kim Eustace on the first Tuesday, and the interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaie’s show “How to become a Berliner in one hour”.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 184, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets €5-16. Shows Tue-Sun. QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB “Quatsch” is the delicious German word for nonsense, and there’s plenty of it in the shows held in the Friedrichstadtpalast theatre basement. Most are in German, but look out for special guests and the regular English-language “Strictly Stand Up” nights. Drinks and snacks like nachos and hot dogs are available.QF‑3, Friedrichstr. 107, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00 09 69, www. quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets €25-35. Shows Thu-Sun.

What’s On BALLET & DANCE 15.09, 21.09, 03.10, 09.10, 10.10, 15.10 19:30 » SLEEPING BEAUTY

Polina Semionova and Mikhail Kaniskin dance the lead roles in Tschaikovsky’s masterpiece.QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €22-95, www. deutscheoperberlin.de.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 28.09, 29.09, 30.09 10:00 » CHAMBER MUSIC FOR TOTS

Head and Shoulders of a Girl, 1990 

© The Lucian Freud ArchiveBridgeman Images UBS Art Collection

12 Berlin In Your Pocket

Concerts for babies? Why not? The savouring of music, the enjoyment of sounds both new and familiar, the urge to move in time to the beats… these are as present in the first months and years of life as they are in older children and adults. That’s why the Deutsche Oper is inviting tots up to two years of age to this workshop to experience their first ever concert. On a floor strewn with cushions and blankets the little ones are free to spend half an hour, with their parents, crawling and romping with a diverse programme of music as an acoustic backdrop.QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €5, www. deutscheoperberlin.de. berlin.inyourpocket.com


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Culture & Events EXHIBITION: DER LUTHEREFFEKT 12.04 - 05.11 » DER LUTHEREFFEKT

As part of nationwide celebrations to mark 500 years since the Reformation, the Deutsches Historisches Museum takes - for the first time - a look at the history of the worldwide impact of Protestantism from its origins in Germany to its development across four different continents. The exhibition deals with the global diversity and manifestations of Protestantism in Germany, Sweden, North America, Korea and Tanzania, but also examines its potential for conflict between different cultures and religions. The museum brings together outstanding objects from national and international lenders, many of which have never before been displayed in Germany. Numerous educational programmes and parallel events accompany the exhibition. A short yet informative guide and a richly illustrated catalogue with separate English and German editions provide information on the exhibition.QF‑3, Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, €12/€8. Free for under-16s, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00-18:00.

EXHIBITIONS 30.06 - 28.08 » FRANZ KAFKA: THE ENTIRE TRIAL

More than 100 years after it was written, the entire manuscript of Franz Kafka’s novel The Trial is going on show at the Martin-Gropius-Bau in Berlin. It will be displayed page-by-page in the order given to it by Kafka’s friend, executor and editor, Max Brod. The Berlin presentation is based on the 2013/2014 exhibition The Entire Trial at the Museum of Modern Literature in Marbach; the manuscript is part of the collections of the German Literature Archive in Marbach. The precious manuscript was purchased at a London auction in 1988 for approximately DM3.5 million in a collective effort by the German Federal Government, the Cultural Foundation of the German Federal States, and the State of Baden-Württemberg, and at the time was the most expensive manuscript ever to be bought at auction. The exhibition is complemented by screenings of Orson Welles’ 1962 film adaptation and photographs from Klaus Wagenbach’s collection. The photograph selection was curated by Klaus Wagenbach and Hans-Gerd Koch. Translations of The Trial in more than 60 different languages will also be on display. QF‑4, Martin-Gropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, €7/€5, www.berlinerfestspiele.de. Open 10:0019:00. Closed Tue. 14 Berlin In Your Pocket

Luthereffekt - Martin Luther im Kreise von Reformatoren, 1625; 1650  © DHM

29.07 - 29.10 » REGINA SCHMEKEN: BLOODY SOIL. SCENES OF NSU CRIMES

Regina Schmeken is one of Germany’s internationally acclaimed photographers. Her work is about the perception of reality, its different levels of meaning and their condensation. Regina Schmeken began taking photographs of the NSU (National Socialist Underground) crime scenes in early 2013. With her new exhibition project “Bloody soil. Scenes of NSU crimes” in the Bundeswehr Museum of Military History in Dresden, she seeks to commemorate the victims of the murders and to confront the public with places that, at first sight, seem to bear no traces of acts of violence. Between 2013 and 2016, she paid many visits to the twelve crime scenes in Germany. Her journeys resulted in a series of large-format, disturbingly impressive black-and-white pictures. Eight male victims were of Turkish origin, one was Greek and one was a German policewoman. They were found on the ground brutally executed by right-wing terrorists. This exhibition rises up against oblivion. It commemorates those who were killed and requests to think about what happened and about the future common life.QF‑4, MartinGropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, €4/€3, www. berlinerfestspiele.de. Open 10:00-19:00. Closed Tue.

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Culture & Events

August 11 to October 1 Theater · Restaurant · Beer Garden // Tickets from EUR 20,- // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de Suitable for international guests

02.09 - 14.01 » WENZEL HABLIK: EXPRESSIONIST UTOPIAS

Utopian architectural designs, expressionist interiors, fantastic worlds of colour – all of this is only a fraction of the work of Wenzel Hablik (1881-1934), who dedicated himself to a synthesis of the arts as a universal artist. Hablik is considered one of the most important representatives of the German expressionist avant-garde in architecture and design. Even if the paths of modern art seem extensively researched his work still offers up surprises. The focus of the exhibition in Berlin is comprised of his architectural visions and his colourful 1923 masterpiece of spatial concept as reconstruction. These are complemented by the presentation of paintings and designs, as it is in combination that the basic idea of the synthesis of the arts as pursued by Hablik first becomes comprehensible. This is the first extensive solo exhibition of his work in BerlinQF‑4, Martin-Gropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, €11-€9, www. berlinerfestspiele.de. Open 10:00-19:00. Closed Tue.

FESTIVALS 22.08 - 25.08 » UFA FILMNÄCHTE

The seventh UFA Filmnächte takes place this August and will over four evenings present a series of early Kinogeschischte films, as well as a new German production, shown in the open air with accompanying music and spectacular scenery. US DJ Jeff Mills will also be performing as part of the event. Qwww.ufa-filmnaechte.de. Every Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri. facebook.com/InYourPocket

TIPI

11.08 - 01.10 » CABARET

The incredible story of Berlin’s wild 1920s and 1930s still amazes visitors. And where better to see it than the German capital itself? Relive the atmosphere of the era at Tipi am Kanzleramt at the musical version of Cabaret, made famous in the 1972 film with Liza Minelli. The show is fabulous, a bit naughty and full of fun - and even if several of the songs are translated into German (English notes are available) it’s easy to follow the story. With seats from only €20 it’s a must-see if you’re in Berlin and interested in the 1920s revue show scene.QE‑3, Tipi am Kanzleramt, Große Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, From €20., www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. August - September 2017

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Culture & Events INTERNATIONAL GARDEN FESTIVAL

Wolkenhain viewpoint

© Dominik Butzmann

Garden and design fans are in for a treat this year in Berlin, with the International Garden Festival (IGA) taking place in the hilly landscape around the Kienberg, amidst the prefabricated housing estates of the eastern Marzahn district. Reached in just 30 minutes on the U5 from Alexanderplatz, plus a short glide in a new 1,5km cableway, visitors can enjoy a variety of garden styles, landscapes and attractions. The existing Gardens of the World park has been greatly expanded for this festival; there’s a quaint English garden, modern ‘garden cabinets’ by landscape designers from South African, Brazil, Chile, China and elsewhere, and works by ten artists. Great views across Berlin can be had from the Wolkenhain platform. Among four restaurants there’s the Warung Bali serving Indonesian delicacies and snacks, and a Chinese café with special Asian sweets. Smartphone users can download the IGA-Guide Berlin app, which includes an audiotour and a complete overview of concerts and other special events held at the festival. 13 April-15 October 2017. Tickets €20/5. Hellersdorfer Str. 159, U5 Kienberg Gärten der Welt, tel. +49 1801 442 20 17, www.iga-berlin-2017.de. Open 09:00-20:00.

19.08 18:00 » LONG NIGHT OF THE MUSEUMS

The Long Night of Museums, first organised here in Berlin in 1997 and now copied worldwide, is this year planned for Saturday, 19th August, when from 18:00 until 02:00 (although times do vary for some attractions) just about every museum across Berlin (80 in all) will open its doors, with over 800 special events, exhibitions, tours, children’s activities and concerts. You can walk between museums or use free shuttle buses. Tickets cost €18 (€12 when bought before 8th August) and include access to all museums, the shuttle buses, public transport (from 15:00-05:00) and the boat to Charlottenburg. You can buy them from all participating museums as well as the Berlin Tourist Information offices. For more information and the free smartphone app see the English-language site www.langenacht-der-museen.de/en. Tickets can be purchased online, from BVG and S-Bahn ticket machines and participating museums.Qwww.lange-nacht-der-museen.de/en.

LIVE MUSIC 29.07 20:30 » CAMILLLE O’SULLIVAN

Irish songstress, posessor of a fine voice and unique style. QF‑3, Admiralspalast, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, €16-39.

11.08, 12.08 18:30 » PINK

Currently in the process of recording a new album, Pink takes time out to hit Berlin with not just one but - due to demand - two back-to-back concerts.QWaldbühne, Glockenturmstrasse 1, MU Olympia-Stadion, €70-75.

15.08 19:00 » PATTI SMITH & HER BAND

Do you know how to pony?QZitadelle Spandau, Spandau, Berlin, MU Zitadelle, €52.55.

24.08 20:00 » ANDREA BOCELLI

Legendary tenor, performing here with a full orchestra and choir.QWaldbühne, Glockenturmstrasse 1, MU Olympia-Stadion, €59.90-€249.90.

FILM FESTIVALS Aside from the Berlinale film festival in February, Berlin hosts over 40 smaller international film festivals throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme. Those taking place in August and September: 19 Aug: Long Night of Film Festivals www.festiwelt-berlin.de 13-24 Sep: Fantasy Film Fest www.fantasyfilmfest.com Englischer garten

16 Berlin In Your Pocket

©kitty_kleist-heinrich

20-24 Sep: Favourites Film festival www.favouritesfilmfestival.de berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events CINEMAS Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled films; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU (original version with German/English subtitles) and OF or OV (original version); DF means German version.

The best Berlin has to offer in one great app

ARSENAL A little art house cinema screening international films in the basement of the Sony Center.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 2, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 95 51 00, www.arsenal-berlin.de. BABYLON MITTE A 1920s filmhouse with a great, varied programme, but beware of dubbed films. The building itself is a fine example of New Objectivity. Ocassionaly there are screenings of silent films, accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG‑2, Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de. CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL CineStar IMAX has blockbuster films and documentaries in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original cinema has Germany’s widest range of Hollywood and arthouse movies in their original English version. QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center), MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00, www.cinestar.de. HACKESCHE HÖFE Mainly shows foreign films in their original language.QG‑2, Rosenthaler Straße 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe.org. KINO IN DER KULTURBRAUEREI The multi-screen cinema in the beautiful KulturBrauerei complex screens films in original language every Monday.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, www.cinestar.de. SPUTNIK Berlin’s highest cinema screens a lot of indie films, many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a bit dicey working your way to the theater, but it’s safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the furniture.QG‑5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU Südstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnikkino.com. Tickets €5-6,5.

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E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

August - September 2017

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Culture & Events BERLIN IN BOOKS: BERLIN HEARTBEATS Many newcomers to Berlin may lament having missed the wild 1990s, when the city opened up, big commerce hadn’t arrived yet and anything was possible. 1990s stories and images by 17 diverse Berliners come together beautifully in the fascinating German-English book “Berlin Heartbeats - Stories from the wild years”. Clubstarter Dimitri Hegemann tells about bringing house music to Berlin and setting up the legendary Tresor club in 1991; modern dance choreographer Sasha Waltz describes getting inspiration from the many spaces available in Berlin and writer Judith Hermann describes moving from West to East and how people managed to communicate and collaborate when nobody had a phone. Photos by Ben de Biel, Berghain doorman Sven Marquardt and others show what went on in the Berlin underground; the parties, riots, experimental theatre, squatted and abandoned buildings. Philipp von Recklinghausen contributes images and stories from 1992 police night shifts, encountering criminals, prostitutes and partygoers. You might regret having missed it all but one conclusion of the book is that in essence Berlin hasn’t changed, and the wild energy that put our split city back on the map is still there - it’s just up to you to make the most of it.

25.09 20:00 » JETHRO TULL BY IAN ANDERSON

Ian Anderson and band perform the music of legendary rockers Jethro Tull.QF‑3, Admiralspalast, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, €52-€83.

29.09 20:00 » TORI AMOS

We’ve been huge fans ever since Little Earthquakes, and she just gets better and better.QF‑4, Tempodrom, Möckernstrasse 10, MU Mockenbrucke, €59.85-€85.15.

MUSICALS 02.06 - 30.07 » THE TAP PACK

Five Australian testosterone-packed hunks will be sweetening Berlin’s summer this year with an extraordinary show. The furious five tap dancers present powerful choreographies to the musical classics of both yesteryear and tomorrow in a performance that is energy-laden, explosive and presented with a generous portion of good old down-to-earth sex appeal. With shimmering tap, songs from Bublé to Beyoncé, from Sinatra to Ed Sheeran, the group sing, dance and entertain their way through a divinely glittering evening, picking up where the legendary Rat Pack left off.QE‑3, Tipi am Kanzleramt, Große Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, €24.50-€34.50, www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. 20:00.

09. - 19.08 20:00 » CATS

Perhaps Andrew Lloyd Webber’s best loved musical returns to Berlin. Based on Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats by T. S. Eliot, and produced by Cameron Mackintosh, the musical tells the story of a tribe of cats called the Jellicles

“Berlin Heartbeats - Stories from the wild years, 1990-present”, (Suhrkamp 2017, ISBN 9783518467688) is for sale for €29,90 at Dussmann and other major bookshops.

01.09 » TRANSMISSION: THE SOUND OF JOY DIVISION

The finest Joy Division tribute act around. Quite brilliant. QI‑4, Privatclub, Skalitzer Str. 85-86, MU Schlesisches Tor, €12.80.

12.09 20:00 » THE SISTERS OF MERCY + THE MEMBRANES

Two bands for the price of one on this bill. And what bands. This gig is our pick of the month.QColumbiahalle, Columbiadamm 13-21, MU Platz der Luftbrucke, €37.75.

21.09 20:00 » MIKE & THE MECHANICS

Better, in our opinion, than Genesis.QColumbiahalle, Columbiadamm 13-21, MU Platz der Luftbrucke, €43€59.50. 18 Berlin In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events

presents

S A Y O N A R A GEISHAS! TAMAGOTCHIS! EDELWEISS! THE JAPAN VARIETY REVUE by Stephan Prattes We invite you to a visually stunning and entertaining journey through the culture, lifestyle and music of Japan – in the heart of Berlin!

www.wintergarten-berlin.de | Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

and the night they make what is known as ‘The Jellicle Choice’ and decide which cat will ascend to the Heaviside Layer and come back to a new life. Cats, first performed in 1981, introduced the song standard Memory amongst many others, and has been seen by more than 73 million people around the world.QF‑3, Admiralspalast, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, €36-97.

SAYONARA TOKYO

SPORT 24.09 » BERLIN MARATHON

With around 35,000 participants, a million spectators, the fastest runners in the world and a series of world records, the Berlin Marathon is a fantastic event that dominates the city all weekend. There’s a men’s and women’s run, a race for wheelchairs, rollerbladers and children. To keep the runners and the audience inspired, dozends of bands perform along the route. The marathon runs clockwise through the city, from Tiergarten park east through Mitte and Friedrichshain, aross the Spree river into Kreuzberg and Schoeneberg and then via the southern suburbs back to Brandenburger Tor. The police have their own marathon to organise, blocking off dozens of streets as the participants come through; count on many blocked streets, and stick to the the U- and S-Bahn if you plan on getting anywhere fast on Saturday afternoon or Sunday morning.Qwww.bmw-berlin-marathon.com/en. facebook.com/InYourPocket

12.07 - 18.02 » SAYONARA TOKYO

Three congenial female friends set out for Tokyo and explore the land of the rising sun, of which they thought they knew already everything. On their turbulent journey through time through the history, culture and music of Japan, they discover a different, exotic and unknown face of this millenniums-old culture. During their adventures in the world of mangas they dance through decades of Japanese-German pop history and let themselves be enchanted by the traditional and modern culture of Nippon. As with all shows at the Wintergarten, you can wine and dine as you watch the performance. Shows at 20:00 daily (except Mon, Tue), 18:00 Sun.QE‑4, Wintergarten Variété, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, €25-59, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Closed Mon, Tue. August - September 2017

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Daytrips

© restaurant-soehnel.de

Berlin is enormous, with more to offer the visitor than just about every other city in Europe. Sometimes however - especially in the heat of high summer - the big city atmosphere can get to be a little too much, meaning that many people take to the road on day trips. Others choose to take to the water. In the first of a regular series, we have put together a short list of things to do in and around the island of Wannsee and the elegant town of Potsdam, southwest of Berlin: long amongst the most popular summer retreats for Berliners.

WANNSEE The vast majority of Wannsee is covered by the Grunewald forest: primarily conifers but you will see birch trees too. Surrounded by lakes, sparsely populated Wannsee was long ago spotted as the perfect place for the wealthy to build summer houses and villas. One of Germany’s oldest yacht clubs is based here, while there is an attractive golf course too. Artists too have for centuries found the required tranquility and inspiration here. Today Wannsee attracts a cosmopolitan crowd as well as increasing numbers of foreign visitors, some of whom are drawn by the infamous Wannsee Conference, which took place in the Wannsee Villa in January 1942. Since 1992 the villa has been a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust as well as an outstanding museum comprising a large permanent exhibition clearly and precisely explaining the Holocaust and the villa’s role in it, as well as smaller temporary exhibitions. 20 Berlin In Your Pocket

Walking paths crisscross the island, and there are a number of well-marked routes, a couple of which can be picked up from Wannsee S-Bahn station. For those of you looking for aquatic pursuits, the Söhnelwerft centre offers just that. From the Söhnel boatyards at the Teltowkanal, canoe trips cross the Griebnitzsee to the Glienicker bridge and the Meierei. Crossing the deep lakes you can paddle as far as Potsdam. It is the perfect way to see the elegant villas of the area. Söhnelwerft offers boats for both beginners and advanced canoers, and there are a number of routes to follow. For the less active there are hop-on, hop-off boat tours which circumnavigate Wannsee. Another heads down through the Potsdam harbour while the longest takes you as far as the Schlanitzsee, returning via the Sacrow-Paretzer Canal. Söhnelwerft is the perfect place for lunch: its restaurant is superb and set in a gorgeous location on the water’s edge. There is also a cafe, a beer garden and sun terrace. A popular event venue, Söhnelwerft can host parties on a variety of boats, as well as in the boathouse. You can get to Söhnelwerft by S-Bahn (S7) to Griebnitzsee, or RegionalBahn (RB21, RB22) to Potsdam Griebnitzsee. Many people also choose to bike here: you can take your bike on the S-Bahn and the cycle from the station. Wannsee itself is perfect for biking. You can also of course get here by boat: the Stern und Kreis Seven Lakes Boat Tour stops here (get off at Kohlhasenbrück). berlin.inyourpocket.com


Daytrips POTSDAM Frederick II the Great loved Potsdam. The ruler of Berlin and all Prussia from 1740 to 1786 built his favourite abode, Sanssouci, here. ‘Without a worry’ was the French name of his palace, though thanks to considerable care taken by its architect Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff, craftsmen, and artisans, it is hailed as the Versailles of Germany. Sanssouci was intended as a summer residence, and though Frederick stretched out the seasons he spent here. The 18th century rococo-style schloss has a gorgeous approach up a flight of vineyard terraces. Frederick loved his little ‘Prussian Arcadia’ and was buried on here at his own request. The original palace rooms and guest apartments host works by Rubens, Van Dyck and Caravaggio. The palace sits within the 290 hectares of Park Sanssouci, which holds a botanical garden, an Orangerie, Roman baths, the Chinese House, the Neues Palais, and Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s Schloss Charlottenhof, whose interior is perhaps the best preserved example of Schinkel’s work. Each sight has its own separate admission charge and changing exhibits. The hilltop Belvedere auf dem Pfingstberg is a romantic folly lookout tower completed in 1863. A pleasant half an hour walk across town (or bus No. 603) is the Schloss Cecilienhof, where twentieth-century history was made in August 1945 as Stalin, Truman and Attlee decided the future of postwar Germany. The half-timber mansion between two lakes in the Neuer Garten was finished in 1917. Besides the palaces and parks, the compact town’s centre, half faded and half restored, makes for a pleasant stroll. The Kolonie Alexandrowka is in a park along Puschkinallee, south of the rise to the Belvedere. Quaintly enough, the log cabins here were built in 1826 for a 12-member Russian choir who had helped the Prussians fight Napoleon. Most of the boys got homesick and eventually left. The redbrick Holländisches Viertel (Dutch quarter) is another failed settlement, but a great place to get a meal and browse in some shops. Friedrich Wilhelm I built the small district in the 1730s to attract Dutch craftsmen. And do not leave Potsdam without visiting the Barberini Museum in the Barberini Palace in the Old Town Square. Opened in January and absolutely not to be confused with the institution of the same name in Rome, this new art museum is the creation of the SAP software magnate Hasso Plattner, whose wealth Forbes puts at $9.8 billion. It is his collection which forms the core of what’s on show. Current exhibitions include Art in the DDR and From Hopper to Rothko: America’s Road to Modern Art. Believe the hype: this place is amazing. BABELSBERG FILMPARK More than 3,000 films have been shot at the famous Babelsberg UFA/DEFA studios, including Fritz Lang’s legendary Metropolis. The studio’s themepark is great facebook.com/InYourPocket

SÖHNEL WERFT

SÖHNEL WERFT Set in a magical location halfway between Potsdam and Wannsee, on the banks of the Teltow Canal just where it meets Lake Griebnitz is this wonderful place, at once restaurant, cafe, beer garden and hopping off point for boat trips and bike tours and all sorts of activities. A one-stop shop you can spend all day here, while it also works as a fantastic lunch or dinner venue when visiting Potsdam, Wannsee and Babelsberg.QNeue Kreisstrasse 50, Berlin-Wannsee, MS Griebnitzsee, tel. +49 30 80 90 78 87, www.restaurant-soehnel.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. for children and adults, and although some the featured films and TV characters may be unfamiliar to foreigners, there’s enough action to keep you amused, including stunt, animal and pirate shows, studio tours and a thrilling behind-the-scenes look at special effects. There’s an English-language audio-guide too. From Babelsberg S-Bahn station take bus N°601 or 690; alternatively take the RE train to Medienstadt Babelsberg station and walk. QGroßbeerenstraße, Potsdam, MS Babelsberg, tel. +49 331 721 27 50, www.filmpark.de. Open 10:0018:00. September closed Mon, Fri. October Open 10:00-17:00. Closed from Nov-Mar. Admission €22, Children €15. BARBERINI MUSEUM Possibly the finest museum to open in Europe this year. An amazing collection of art housed in the rebuilt Barberini Palace, whose reconstruction took almost four years, from 2012-16. QAlter Markt, Humboldtstrasse 5–6, Potsdam, MS Potsdam, tel. +49 331 236 01 44 99, www.museum-barberini.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Every first Thursday open 10:00-21:00. Admission €14/10. HOUSE OF THE WANNSEE CONFERENCE Opened in 1992 this museum and Holocaust memorial is another fine example of how well Germany deals with its past. The Wannsee Conference, at which many of the details of the Holocaust were formally agreed, was held here in 1942. QAm Grossen Wannsee 56-58, MS Wannsee, tel. +49 30 80 50 010, www.ghwk.de/gb. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Free. August - September 2017

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Mitte Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN ALPENSTUECK Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the palate.QF‑2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open 18:00-01:00. €€. T­U­G­B­S MAXIMILIANS So you always wondered what Bavaria is like – the beer, the food, Oktoberfest – but you only made it as far as Berlin? No problem: Maximilians restaurant serves up authentic and delicious Bavarian cuisine just a stone’s throw from Gendarmenmarkt. The menu includes soups and salads, but the real specialities are the delicious Bavarian meat dishes such as knuckle of pork, steak, and a variety of sausages. QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 185-190, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. U­G­B­S MUTTER HOPPE Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided into cosy, low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers sides not served at other German restaurants, including green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further towards the Spree.QG‑3, Rathausstraße 21, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:3024:00. €€. T­E­G­B

BACK TO SCHOOL The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the watering hole for adult students from all around the world who are learning German at the GLS language school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques. DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de. GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 27, www.gls-berlin.de. facebook.com/InYourPocket

ROTISSERIE WEINGRÜN Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what was once Berlin’s old town, Weingrün’s fresh and simple interior is a great place to sample regional grill dishes such as Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar is stocked with wines from the owner’s own vineyards in the Pfalz. The restaurant offers good views over the Spree canal.QG‑4, Gertraudenstraße 10-12, Mitte, MU Spittelmarkt, tel. +49 30 20 62 19 00, www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. T­U­G­B­S­W SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth) and Schnitzel.QF‑3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:0024:00. €€. T­U­N­B­S

@InYourPocket STÄNDIGE VERTRETUNG Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn hangout (named after the West-German ‘embassy’ in the GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politician’s meeting point supplies the homesick with their beloved Kölsch beer and Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst and Saumagen), but the menu has a selection of Berlin food as well.QF‑3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.staev.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. B WEIHENSTEPHANER The one eatery on the sunny square that delivers a “hey, this is Germany!” experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple and satisfying Bavarian specialities (like white sausages). The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-white checked tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant.QG‑3, Neue Promenade 5, Mitte, MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 84 71 07 60, www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de. Open 11:00-01:00. €€. T­U­E­G­B ZILLE-STUBE The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beafstuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG‑3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestubenikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. E August - September 2017

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Mitte FOOD WITH A VIEW

PANORAMA CAFÉ The 1930s-style café at the top of the popular PanoramaPunkt viewing point on Potsdamer Platz is a great place for coffee, cakes and other snacks, before venturing on the open terrace with great views over Berlin. QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt. de. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Nov-Mar 11:00 - 17:00. Tower admission €7,50; family ticket €17,50. SPHERE At 207 metres this is Berlin’s highest restaurant, found at the top of the TV Tower. Gently rotating it gives you a spin around the city in 30 minutes, as you feast on food which is really rather good and well worthy of the surroundings. Soups, salads and light meals accompany your city tour, with attractive daily specials often the best choice. There’s a great breakfast menu too: a very good way to start the day. Reservations advised, especially at lunchtime or in the evenings.QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 247 57 58 75, www.tv-turm.de. Open 09:00 - 22:30. €€€. E

ZUM NUSSBAUM What seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest. When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons don’t care for authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities with curious translations, such as ‘brown rolls with dripping’. QG‑3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. €. G­B ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZ Berlin’s oldest restaurant doesn’t lie on the tourist path, and maybe that’s why German leaders bring visiting heads of state here when everything in Mitte is too noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989, and Gerhard Schröder brought Jacques Chirac over for the Berlin specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003.QG‑3, Waisenstraße 14-16, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Open 12:0001:00. Closed Sun. €€. G­B­S

ASIAN JOLLY Opposite the Pergamon Museum, with tourists, trams and S-Bahn trains gliding by the windows, Jolly is a spacious and modern restaurant with delicious Cantonese Chinese and Thai dishes. Specialities include dim sum and Peking roast duck, served with pancakes and special sauce, but there’s also a wide variety of soups, and good portions of stir-fried meals and Thai curries, with servings of fluffy rice.QF‑3, Am Kupfergraben 4, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 20 05 95 01, service@restaurant-jolly.de, www. restaurant-jolly.de. Open 11:30 - 23:30. €€. A­U­B­S KAMALA Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere, where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are rich and buttery.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. A­B OTITO Staying open later than others in Berlin’s tourist district, Otito is a good choice for fresh Vietnamese food at great prices, to eat in or take away. There’s fried spring rolls, wantan dumplings, pho soup and a variety of rice dishes – as well as an impressive list of sushi options.QLeipziger Str. 30, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 60 53 00, www. otito.de. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. VAN LONG Best visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities, from all parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty Thai options served in a modest space decorated with

24 Berlin In Your Pocket

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Mitte Vietnamese art. Try the specials such as the Cha Ca La Vong fish that you finish grilling at your table, or the Lau chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.QReinhardtstraße 8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 23 570, www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.

360° PANORAMIC VIEW EXHIBITION CAFÉ

AUSTRIAN BRECHT KELLER The recipes served here are those of a busy Austrian actress making do with East German ingredients, so though decent, it’s not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) that’s famous, but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small basement cellar is full of family photographs and original set models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is what could only be described as a romantic brick-lined lounge area. A wall separates the terrace from the cemetery where the couple are buried.QF‑2, Chausseestraße 125, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 38 43, www.brechtkeller.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. B

WITH THE FASTEST ELEVATOR IN EUROPE

TO THE BEST VIEWS OF BERLIN

FINE DINING AIGNER One of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly international, as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate from a famous Viennese café that closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh from the market.QF‑3, Französische Straße 25, Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00-02:00. €€€. T­U­G­B­S­W BORCHARDT Borchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good first impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the building’s original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which comes up with a different menu each day to keep its regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans, the beef dishes here are delectable.QF‑3, Französische Straße 47, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from 11:00. €€€. G­B FACIL At the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare using only fresh, local products direct from the market. The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that retracts.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de. Open . Closed Sat, Sun, Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. U­G­B­ Wh facebook.com/InYourPocket

ition Exhib Views lin of Ber

Opening hours: Platform: 10:00-20:00 Café: 11:00-19:00 Shorter opening hours during winter Potsdamer Platz 1

www.panoramapunkt.de

August - September 2017

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Mitte FISCHERS FRITZ The restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined palate. Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef first trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei (as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, deep carpets and a fireplace.QF‑3, Charlottenstraße 49, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:3023:00. €€€€. P­A­G hh LUTTER & WEGNER Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put the sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt. There’s a warren of rooms in which to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts, and you can trust the national committee that dubbed the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003.QF‑3, Charlottenstraße 56, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-berlin.de. Open 11:00-03:00. Closed Sun, The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while the Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. €€€. A­B PARIS-MOSKAU Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly positioned between new government offices and hotels. Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now. Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust, tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, there’s a lunch menu as well.QE‑3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00-24:00. €€€. A VOX Highly-paid business travellers from New York, London and Hamburg look quite at home in this excellent, minimalist and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. Between the DJ sets and creative cocktails in the adjoining bar and the show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, so don’t drop your sushi in your lap.QE‑4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 53 17 72, www.vox-restaurant.de. Open: Breakfast Mon-Fri 06:30 - 10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30 - 12:00. Dinner Sun-Thu 18:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 18:30 - 24:00. Bar Sun-Thu 18:00-01:00, Fri & Sat 18:00-02:00. €€€. P­A­ E­G­B

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 26 Berlin In Your Pocket

INTERNATIONAL NOLA’S AM WEINBERG Delicious modern Swiss cuisine served on the heady hights of Berlin’s city-centre Weinberg ‘mountain’. Get your tongue around amazing cheese-bread-wine combinations and enjoy anything from healthy breakfasts to nicely priced weekday lunches and Sunday brunches to Alpine dinners including various fondue options.QVeteranenstrasse 9, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.nola.de. Open 10:00 - 01:00. PATIO Surprisingly few restaurants in Berlin make the most of the wonderful river views - but Patio is an exception, located on a boat with huge windows, a fireplace and large terrace areas. Watch the tour boats glide by as you try the international, Italian-inspired cuisine, or order one of the excellent cocktails.QHelgoländer Ufer corner Kirchstraße, Mitte, MS Bellevue, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 00, www.patio-berlin.de. Open 17:30 – 23:00. REINHARD’S Reinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel, and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG‑3, Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00-24:00. €€-€€€. T­G­B­S TRAUBE In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, ‘The Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: crossover food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes or compose their own menus, with or without wines. The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF‑2, Reinhardtstraße 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:0015:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. €€€. T­G­B ZOLLPACKHOF Long one of the best German restaurants in the land, this place recently reopened after the completion of a threeyear renovation project, and the Zollpackhof beer garden looks better than ever. With a superb terrace offering views of the fine main building the menu boasts a wide range of first-class dishes, from homemade potato soup with fresh marjoram and Vienna sausages to duck roasted with oranges. The Schmankerl menu for two is as meaty a treat as you’ll find in all Berlin. The Sunday Brunch (from 11:30) is set to become legendary.QE‑3, ElisabethAbegg-Straße 1, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 33 09 97 20, www.zollpackhof.de. Open from 11:00. €€. T­U­G­B berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte Schützenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte (Nähe Checkpoint Charlie) www.currywurstmuseum.com

Anfahrt | Directions U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie) U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)

EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN. TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART.

JAPANESE COCOLO A completely authentic Japanese ramen noodle soup restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds of fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches and a line of hungry waiting guests. Start off with a bowl of salty green beans, choose from five delicious broths, have an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.QG‑2, Gipsstraße 3, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 172 304 75 84. Open 18:00-24:00. €€. G­B SUSHI CIRCLE This sushi bar caters less to the guests of the upscale hotels in the area and more to shoppers and office workers on the go. If you’re not quick enough to grab the pieces passing by on the bar’s conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle around again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle to whip a request off for you.QF‑3, Französische Straße 48, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 650 60, www.sushi-circle.de. Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:0023:00. €.

SPANISH YOSOY TAPAS-BAR Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this intimate-sized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and a Spanish staff is one of the few to proudly show its roots. High stools and an open storefront give you a nice vantage point from which to watch the crowds flowing towards the Hackescher Höfe.QG‑3, Rosenthaler Straße 37, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 912 13, www.yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. €€. P­A­B

CAFÉS BARCOMI’S DELI Barcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coffee and luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also facebook.com/InYourPocket

salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaffeerösterei outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coffee.QF‑5, Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. TGBS THE DIGITAL EATERY Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very first café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (€8,90), or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic devices or use the free wifi. Best of all are the digital toys that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or play Xbox games.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W

Nightlife BARS AUFSTURZ The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable and the place looks good, with changing modern art exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger Straße haunt.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 67, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, kontakt@aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from 12:00. EB DER MAUERWINZER The ‘Vintner by the Wall’ serves around 100 wines from all 13 wine regions in both east and west Germany. Cosy up by the fireplace in winter or spread out on the terrace in summer to make the most of the fine wines, or get some bottles to take home.QWolliner Str. 20, Mitte, MU Eberswalder Strasse, tel. +49 30 48 49 15 01, www.mauerwinzer.de. Open 16:00 - 23:00. August - September 2017

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Mitte CASINO SPIELBANK BERLIN The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette, American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book a tour including game instructions.QE‑4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission €2,50. Minimum age is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual. ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMP An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a stage, plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in the back yard shows foreign films in original version.QG‑3, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, post@eschschloraque.de, www. eschschloraque.de. Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW MEIN HAUS AM SEE It’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the ‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7, it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On the menu are drinks, exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers, pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG‑2, Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, info@mein-haus-am-see.com, www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours Open 24/7. €. TUENGBSW

REINGOLD A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with an oversize drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn offspring, Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though it often has a DJ, no one dances here. It’s a setting for making stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF‑2, Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 38 76 76, info@reingold.de, www.reingold.de. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB

CLUBS GRÜNER SALON Chandeliers dress up this occasional club venue, talk-show stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for standard evenings like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing.QG‑2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 24 59 89 36, www.gruener-salon.de. Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. HOUSE OF WEEKEND The old Weekend Club moved from 12th to the 17th floor of the beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on the corner of Otto-Braun-Straße. Probably the best rooftop view in town!QG‑3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 (0) 152 24293140, www.houseofweekend.berlin. Open Thu-Sat 23:00-04:00. KAFFEE BURGER The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in-theSocialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.QG‑2, Torstraße 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open from 21:00. E ROTER SALON This place probably began with a faded elegance, but let’s say it’s just settled in after ten years of clubbers bouncing off its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop, electro

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR Checkpoint Charlie Friedrichstraße 47 / corner Zimmerstraße | 10117 Berlin-Mitte Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Visitors’ service info@bfgg.de More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de

HERE, CONTEmpORARy HIsTORy COmEs ALIvE 28 Berlin In Your Pocket

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Mitte lounge, and electroclash - the music Berlin is known for. QG‑2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175 12, www.roter-salon-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.

PUBS KILKENNY IRISH PUB The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station offer more than enough space for natives and tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make sure that you won’t miss a single goal. Irish and German beer, whiskey and other cold beverages flow freely.QG‑3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, info@kilkenny-pub.de, www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW

Let‘s go up!

Sightseeing ATTRACTIONS LITTLE BIG CITY Brought to you by the makers of Madame Tussauds, The Dungeon, Sea Life and the Legoland Discovery Centre, Little Big City is a great new way to experience the story of Berlin on a totally new scale, bringing you closer to history than ever before. Located at the foot of Berlin’s iconic TV Tower, 3D, interactive miniature sets complete with amazing special effects allow you to take a unique look at Berlin’s most famous landmarks and breathtaking cityscapes in a whole new way. You could be forgiven for thinking this is a kids’ attraction: it is, for kids aged 0-99!QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 180 625 71 06, www.officiallittlebigcity.com/berlin. €12.

LANDMARKS FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER) Now as much a symbol of Berlin as any other building, the 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969, is 70m higher than the Eiffel tower and still the tallest building in Germany. Its observation deck (which also houses Berlin’s highest bar) offers predictably amazing views of the entire city and beyond, while the Sphere restaurant on the floor above the viewing deck comes complete with a rotating floor. Photos point out the many, many Berlin landmarks for you. We recommend two visits, one by day, and one by night (it is open until midnight): you will get two competely different perspectives. Tip: buy your ticket online in advance to beat the queues. The main entrance is opposite Alexanderplatz S-Bahn train station.QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.tv-turm.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €13/€8.50. facebook.com/InYourPocket

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online.

Tel: +49 (30) 24 75 75 875

www.tv-turm.de August - September 2017

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Mitte MUSEUMSINSEL The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of impressive collections of art, history and ethnology, covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as well as their cross-overs into modernity. ALTE NATIONALGALERIE Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are some of the artists whose works hang around this museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully battered colonnade.QG‑3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. ALTES MUSEUM This neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG‑3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 NEUE SYNAGOGE The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most eyecatching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from 1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, first on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle but effective sound installation adds to the experience.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 28-30, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00, www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:00- 20:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat closed. Admission €3,50/3.

Deutsches Currywurst Museum

30 Berlin In Your Pocket

266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. NEUES MUSEUM Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular finds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has finds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany. One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were considered to be ‘degenerate art’ by the Nazis.QG‑3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6. PERGAMON MUSEUM The Pergamon museum is undergoing major renovations, with the north wing and the hall with the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG‑3, Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6. POTSDAMER PLATZ Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the war, and suffered again when most remaining buildings were demolished to make way for the Wall’s death strip. Hotel and office skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt. The most popular public space and architectural attraction is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting. The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F‑4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz. NIKOLAIVIERTEL Berlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche. The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday in the area in which the fishermen’s settlement first began. No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that the GDR government could afford. The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river. On Rathausstraße, there’s a row of restaurants that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits related to Berlin.QG‑3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, www.stadtmuseum.de. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte REICHSTAG The name together with its monumental size make most people associate Germany’s neoclassical parliamentary building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fire just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999. Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps the most public federal building in the world through its glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting the building’s history circle the rim above the parliament chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome, an engineering feat even more fascinating than the panoramic view from the top. It’s best to book an entry time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of the building in advance online; otherwise queue up for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the road. Photo ID is required.QF‑3, Platz der Republik 1, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/ htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.

CHURCHES BERLINER DOM The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from 1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side exhibit rooms and good views.QG‑3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission €7/4. DEUTSCHER DOM The baroque ‘German Church’ from 1701 was completed with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged by fire in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s. Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an exhibition about the development of parliamentarian democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows and the impressive building models on the top floor. Free tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking is required for individual visitors.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www. bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/ wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. facebook.com/InYourPocket

PANORAMAPUNKT

© Landesarchiv Berlin

PANORAMAPUNKT It takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th and 25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans Kollhoff’s magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to New York’s skyscraping glory days but also resembles the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the top floors there’s an exhibition about the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which went from world-class entertainment district to Wall-divided wasteland and back again within a generation. The rooftop terrace offers great close-up views of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and Tiergarten park. Indoors, there’s a café too (see p. 20).QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Viewing platform open 10:00-18:00, cafe open 11:00-19:00. Admission €7.50; family ticket €17.50. FRANZÖSISCHER DOM The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkt’s grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and French only), dedicated to the thousands of French protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century. Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40 metres above street level, with great views all around.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open 12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. Admission €2/1, viewing balcony €2.50/1.

Full contents online: berlin.inyourpocket.com August - September 2017

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Mitte which is not suitable for children.QF‑3, Cora-BerlinerStraße 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36, besucherservice@stiftung-denkmal.de, www. stiftung-denkmal.de. Information centre open 10:0020:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

MUSEUMS

Wall Panorama

MEMORIALS FÜHRERBUNKER One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by walking to the end of In den Ministergärten, off Ebertstraße. A parking area surrounded by a prefabricated apartment complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed off during the complex’s construction in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstraße.QF‑3, In den Ministergärten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz. MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS OF EUROPE This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims. The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a field of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, creating an undulating landscape that fills two city blocks. The memorial has an undergound information centre

BLACK BOX COLD WAR The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and texts highlights the main events that took place here. QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, info@bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €5/3,50. DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM According to the myth, currywurst is Berlin’s very own fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that first became popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be found at train stations and street corners across the city. This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this culinary creation. There’s a shop with sausage accessories and you can taste currywurst too.QF‑4, Schützenstraße 70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47, www.currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €11/8,50. DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM The imperial Zeughaus - a pretty, pink, early 18th century arsenal building by the Spree - houses the impressive German History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main building illustrate the best and worst episodes of Germany’s history, and there are regularly changing exhibitions in the dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent an audio tour set for €3 or join the English-language highlights tour on Saturdays at 13:00.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8/4. Under 18 free.

asisi Panorama Berlin Friedrichstraße 205 10117 Berlin Checkpoint Charlie

Tickets and Service +49(0)341.35 55 34 0 service@asisi.de

Free Guided Tours Thursdays 11.30 a.m. in English – for Berlin discoverers

Opening hours daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Getting there U6 Kochstraße U2 Stadtmitte M29 Kochstraße

facebook.com/ asisi.berlin www.asisi.de

ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN asisi.de

32 Berlin In Your Pocket

In cooperation with

berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte The world‘s first

Durchführung: Institut für Plastination e.K., Heidelberg

museum

Alexanderplatz Directly at the TV Tower GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER The excellent national memorial site for the divided Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin Wall’s history in text, slides and dramatic film footage. An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for several more open-air exhibitions.QF‑2, Bernauer Straße 111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467 98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:3019:00, Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition open 24hrs). Admission free. GEMÄLDEGALERIE Berlin’s largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters include Dürer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians are represented by Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch rooms are especially good with a Vermeer and the world’s largest Rembrandt collection.QE‑4, Matthäikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, service@smb.museum, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4. facebook.com/InYourPocket

% www.MeMu.berlin HAMBURGER BAHNHOF Berlin’s wonderful modern art museum is situated in a converted train station. It’s well worth a visit by those curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fixated by bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection.QE‑2, Invalidenstraße 50-51, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, hbf@smb.spkberlin.de, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. MEMU MENSCHEN MUSEUM The Menschen Museum, the world’s first museum dedicated to the human body, invites the visitor to embark on a journey through life and inspires visitors to contemplate what makes us human. The exhibition shows us what connects us, what keeps us upright and in motion, what makes us laugh and what makes us love. It gives the visitor insights into the highly complex, yet fragile and vulnerable structures of the human body. You will find it at the base of the Fernsehturm tower. S-Bahn 5, 7, 75, 9 and U-Bahn 2, 5, 8 will get you here, as well as buses TXL, 100, 200.QG‑3, Panoramastrasse 1a (Fernsehturm tower), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.memu.berlin. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €14/12. August - September 2017

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Mitte KUNSTHALLE The private collection of the Deutsche Bank contains works by world-renowned contemporary artists; regularly changing temporary exhibitions show selected works in this space on Unter den Linden designed by Richard Gluckman. The annual ‘artist of the year’exhibition focuses on one young artist. There’s a nice ArtCafé and shop too. There are free tours every day, several on Monday between 11:00-19:00.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 1315, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 202 09 30, www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €4/3, Monday & under 18 free. Free guided tours at 18:00. MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the personalities that gave it glamour and style came from Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country with a strong film-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting of Olympia (1936) and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda films will impress ‘seen-that’ film buffs. The museum ends with special effects and science fiction.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 2 (Sony Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission €6/4,5. MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere there’s the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites, the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla Bobby from the primates hall.QF‑2, Invalidenstraße 43, Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85 91, info@mfnberlin.de, www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Open 09:30 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,50. SAMMLUNG BOROS (BOROS COLLECTION) A showpiece M1200-type bunker from 1941, previously used for fruit storage and as an infamous techno and fetish club, is now the private art gallery of advertising executive Christian Boros and his wife, who live in the penthouse bungalow on top. It’s full of wonderful modern art which can be viewed on excellent English-language guided tours (booked well in advance). QF‑3, Reinhardstraße 20, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 27 59 40 65, www.sammlung-boros.de. Open Thurs 15:00-20:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission €12/6. WALL PANORAMA The round structure near Checkpoint Charlie houses an incredibly detailed 60 by 15 metre panoramic painting of the Berlin Wall and its scruffy surroundings as it looked in the mid-1980s. Artist Yadegar Asisi has incorporated his personal experiences of the time and the everyday banality of the Wall with fascinating small scenes of life, on both sides of the 34 Berlin In Your Pocket

divide. Join the English tour on Thursdays 11:30 at no extra cost.QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 205, Mitte, tel. +49 34 13 55 53 40, www.asisi.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mid-July to midSept 10:00-19:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission €10/8.

Shopping ALEXA CENTRE A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafés. There’s a massive kids’ area with a cinema and the LOXX model train exhibition.QG‑3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00, www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:0019:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00. DUSSMANN Dussmann is the biggest and unquestionably best bookstore in Berlin, set over five amazing levels with an excellent, separate section for English-language books, and a huge travel section. Besides books there is music, film and gifts, a wonderful stationers and an elegant cafe and restaurant. The place looks fantastic - the vertical garden in a sight in itself - and you could end up spending the whole day here. QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 90, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 20 25 11 11, www.kulturkaufhaus.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. GUDRUN SJÖDÉN Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjödén in a bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. There’s two floors of clothing and a cozy café corner.QMarkgrafenstr. 32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. RITTER SPORT CHOCOWORLD The flagship store of Germany’s famous Ritter Sport chocolate brand has hundreds of chocolatey products to try and buy, an exhibition about how chocolate is made, a restaurant and a workshop where children can create their own chocolate bar.QFranzösische Str. 24, Mitte, tel. +49 30 20 09 50 80, www.ritter-sport.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Hotels €75-150 HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence (Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer.QF‑2, Tieckstraße 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49302844550,info@honigmond.de,www.honigmond.de. 24 rooms (singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225). AG berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte

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August - September 2017

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Charlottenburg & the West Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN APRIL This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.net. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS KNESE Alt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on offer at rustic Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes, the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some good South-African wine.QC‑4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TB RENGER-PATZSCH Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen. QD‑5, Wartburgstraße 54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€.

Zillemarkt

SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNE Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree, sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote Grütze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD‑5, Motzstraße 61, Schöneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21 96 98 61, schoeneberger_weltlaterne@yahoo.de, http://schoeneberger-weltlaterne.mycylex.de. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB

RESTAURANT SCHLOSSGARTEN A stone’s throw from the elegant Charlottenburg palace and several other top-class museums, the Schlossgarten is an excellent restaurant with a bright interior, a separate small ‘Jägerstübchen’ room and a large 80-seat Biergarten that’s delightful in summer. Schlossgarten specialises in German and game dishes, using fresh and seasonal regional products. Try the spicy venison goulash soup, a game Bratwurst, one of the fresh fish dishes or the Berliner calf liver.QB‑3, Schlossstr. 64, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 36 70 22 99, www.restaurant-schlossgarten-berlin.de. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00.

Local cuisine Wartburgstraße 54 Berlin - Schöneberg Open daily from 18:00 Tel. 784 20 59 www.renger-patzsch.com Renger-Patzsch

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Charlottenburg & the West AMERICAN HARD ROCK CAFE This is the place to head to meet both foreigners and locals looking for huge piles of food and un-Germanly friendly staff. America dominates the menu, with nachos, wraps, fantastic hamburgers, steaks and chocolate peanut butter pie. When the kitchen closes, the bar continues, allowing visitors to party on.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 224, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 88 46 20, www.hardrock.com. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 00:30. (€10-20). P­A­E­G­B

ASIAN Suksan

ZILLEMARKT The kind of quintessential Berlin venue you just have to come and eat when visiting the German capital. Serving - in their own idiom - solid Berlin dishes (as well as much else, including a decent selection of fish and seafood) this place just oozes charm and atmosphere. Their homebrewed Zillebrau beer is fantastic and at €3.80 for half a litre it’s one of the top value pints in the city: enjoy it in the big, lovely beergarden.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00. T­B

JJ

Zillemarkt

Caféhaus • Restaurant

Over 100 years of comfort and quality Traditional German cuisine

SUKSAN A short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials, or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD‑4, Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de, www.suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.

AUSTRIAN OTTENTHAL The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh, seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town, Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil, are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite spots.QC‑4, Kantstraße 153, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. VGB SCHNITZELEI Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre, with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations, though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB‑3, Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-WagnerPlatz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS

Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00 Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00 Tel. 030-881 70 40 Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg www.zillemarkt.de 38 Berlin In Your Pocket

FINE DINING FIRST FLOOR A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieter’s restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who can’t move well after a seven-course meal make a point of staying at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and the Far East, berlin.inyourpocket.com


Charlottenburg & the West and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu.QD‑4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, www.palace.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. G h GROSZ A true old-fashioned Grand Cafe and restaurant, conceived in the same style as during the Ku’damm’s heyday, a century ago. Grosz not only looks magnificent with its architecture, the fine dining is as good as it gets in this part of town. Settle down for an exquisite dinner - perhaps even private dining? - or drop by earlier for the Plat du jour lunch special or the cakes from the house patisserie.QKurfürstendamm 193/194, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrasse, tel. +49 30 652 14 21 99, www.grosz-berlin.de/. Open 09:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:30.

SUKSAN

TRAVEL FAR. EAT AT HOME Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip to the land of smiles.

FRENCH LE PETIT ROYAL Fantastic, high quality French cuisine, focussing on classic dishes, fresh seafood and fish - but there’s great steak too. And it’s no problem to pair whatever you order to one of the 500 wines stored in the large wine room. The beautifully designed space is perfect for a special night out. QC‑4, Grolmanstrasse 59, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 330 06 07 50, www.lepetitroyal.de.

100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin

INTERNATIONAL DIEKMANN Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlin’s simple tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients. Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French cheeses.QC‑4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann-restaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB DRESSLER A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling, large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden 39.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurantdressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB DUKE Creative international crossover meals are served in the aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling 1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary treats.QD‑4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€-€€€€. facebook.com/InYourPocket

THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE

ORIGINA L THAI FOO D

SUKSAN Ansbacher Strasse 4 corner Kurfürstenstrasse U - Wittenbergplatz www.suksan.de

TEL 030.21 01 86 73 August - September 2017

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Charlottenburg & the West JAPANESE SACHIKO SUSHI An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town, dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, here’s your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC‑3, JeanneMammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. TGBS

SPANISH EL DORADO Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just want to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass by.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€. B

CAFÉS EINHORN A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only. Every day there’s a completely different menu, with European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC‑4, Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorncatering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. NGS

ITALIAN LOCANDA A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The pasta, fish and meat dishes are simple, and all simply delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite the Schaubühne theatre.QB‑4, Lehniner Platz 2, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69 68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. T­N­G­ B­S ZWÖLF APOSTEL The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business lunch options offer good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2, under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. TNGBS 40 Berlin In Your Pocket

CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This café, restaurant and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as well as regional food, coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food served till 22:00.QD‑4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats, polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you don’t have to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout. Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC‑4, Fasanenstraße 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.de, www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€. GB CAFE KALWIL A cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg. Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coffee, quality teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals and more.QD‑4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 22:00. €€. ABW berlin.inyourpocket.com


Charlottenburg & the West GRENANDER MORNING GLORY Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your morning.QD‑4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www. grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS

ZILLEMARKT BEERGARDEN

WHAT DO YOU FANCY LOVE? Away from the posh cafes along the Ku’damm, try a relaxed cup of coffee, slice of cake, or healthy snack, juice or smoothie at ‘Fancy’.QKnesebeckstr. 68/69, Charlottenburg, www.whatdoyoufancylove.de. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Nightlife BARS GREEN DOOR This dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded, green leather door protects those prone to bumping into things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up, and quite steady on their feet.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße 50, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15, www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. ZWIEBELFISCH The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with longtime owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out the beer or coffee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC‑4, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 73 63, www. zwiebelfisch-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW HEFNER The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner prides itself on having the best selection of Martini cocktails in Berlin.QC‑4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg, MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefner-berlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB

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ZILLEMARKT The beergarden in the courtyard at the rear of the Zillemarkt restaurant is one of those landmark Berlin venues which offers a quintessential experience. The kind of place you would be mad not to visit at least once during a trip to the German capital. You’ll meet locals, travellers, often sharing one of the tables as they down pints of the excellent (and good value) Zillerbrau beer. Add in good food and you have the makings of a first class evening. Get there! QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00. T­B

PUBS THE HARP A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights and live music too. The pub can be booked for special occasions.QB‑4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harppub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 15:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. €-€€. EBW UNION JACK A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this whisky pub is one of Berlin’s first true pubs and continues to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys (from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers. Solid food is available too – home made snacks and Walkers crisps.QC‑4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjackberlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun Open from 19:00. Sun closed.

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Charlottenburg & the West Sightseeing LANDMARKS OLYMPIC STADIUM The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936 Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly floating roof whose translucent skin offers shelter for almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide, or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz 3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30 25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de, www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June - mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:0016:00. Admission €7/5. SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace in 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter facade and central tower, took its final form in 1790. You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA‑3, Spandauer Damm 20-24, Charlottenburg, MU RichardWagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues closed. Admission €12/8, New Wing €6/5. Photo permit €3.

CHURCHES GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s landmark attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germany’s culpability is declared on a plaque: ‘The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of God’s judgement, which befell our people during the war years.’ The 1895 church was once a symbol of national pride: even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many of them free.QD‑4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00. 42 Berlin In Your Pocket

MUSEUMS ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM) The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied (US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135, Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818 19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission free. BRÖHAN MUSEUM A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and craft design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by so much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy and indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent collection (spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases, and furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter Behrens and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions. QB‑3, Schloßstraße 1a, Charlottenburg, MU SophieCharlotte-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00, www.broehanmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/4. C/O BERLIN The famed C/O photo gallery is now based in the iconic Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There are multiple exhibitions on at any time, by both unknown and renowned photographers. Don’t miss the cafe and the museum shop either.QC‑4, Hardenbergstraße 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Admission €10/5. MUSEUM FÜR ASIATISCHE KUNST Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian Art museum has an impressive permanent collection of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts. QTakustraße 40, Zehlendorf, MU Dahlem-Dorf, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3.

PARKS AND GARDENS TIERGARTEN This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and waterways is the most genteel of Berlin’s parks, but it’s still a fine place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue, or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessäule (Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from 1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout point in the middle of the park. The park’s café and beer garden, Café am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end. QC/D/E‑3/4. berlin.inyourpocket.com


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This . locals who .fear Lic they’ll istb onskisvocal Sc Sch S lose r. access menu here is easily a Volkspark match for the chic interior, which has Schpublic ht urg tr. eh Saefkow Prenzlauer Berg waR.Sigfor er chapter rStr ensuburban ridstrits . b r also includes sights east of Friedrichshain. won accolades fantastic design. This is the place to go r z t e Str. . . rg S Str Str . if you’re looking for a full-on dining experience, not just food. Bo Die Da ser . u enb r. nh tric n t a S urg o zig rdtGETTING THERE QSimplonstraße 16, Friedrichshain, önh MS/U H.uaWarschauer er Str effe hh q r c e a K Str. . rM r Sto SS/U-Bahn ap ns From Mitte, hop on a train station Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 04 97 04, hewww.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Pa Arnswalder tr. tr. elleHo st Straße, station Frankfurter Tor. From Open 18:00 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 01:00. €€. TGBS urs Pl. Hu or L.to eU-Bahn llee tr. fel rch r A an ltze the M10 tram, str. Nordbahnhof orHe Prenzlauer Berg catch erge dBo b Nie s . d r E i S m r der as the party tr. Lan known at night.tr. Str. Sy str tr. antram kirc ne-S . Europahne eys r-S .-H e rS P Sport-Palast . m tr. Str . om POCKET WALK: FRIEDRICHSHAIN GLORYAllee DUCK Landsberger Vir zKarl-La R.- dt.-S ran de-Str. in U-Bahn n MWarschauer Straße;Arenjoy aor strchat tr. h s o h S GetFoff the Sthe Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new c s w ri . u s city ed i ri n r m e Apanorama from the bridge and glance back atotthe he dainty place bergserves crispy, Efreshly .-Kutt grilled duck, served with gingerC ne S ands llee tr. curry and other toppings. Or go A red-brick Oberbaumbrücke bridge before heading north into L mango sauce, orange sauce,r-red Fri Volkspark ed Hö e e en theFriedrichshain lSimondistrict. Turn right on Revaler Straße and left on for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or one of the vegetarian l ch A ste st er str. er offeldbars options. There’ tr. Dach-Straße for Friedrichshain’s most touristyrgstretch an s a good Str. selection of drinks and Asian cocktails too. e k ie nsStr. b e nsteis reason to drop by; the dark Feng Shui interior ds cafés. A right on Krossener Straße The design alone r. n- to Boxi, W in-S Lan takes deyou stand tr. Hei ing str. has interesting perspective lines, there’s a large harbour scene on ch Boxhagener Platz, scene of the excellent Sunday flea- market. s n g n n Stor 13000 psychedelic a Storkower Allee Bü S h eli r. one wall and the toilets are h Walk north along Gärtnerstraße and Mainzer Straße to reach decorated Platz der e c b kower e o E l l Herm with K st r. Str. Vereinten Landsberger A .-Bl Friedrichshain, r.stickers.QI‑4, Sonntagstraße 31, t the grand Stalinist-style Frankfurter Allee. Follow this west (it MS s an n Nationen n . r a k t m fs turn right onto Friedenstraße r becomes Karl-Marx-Allee) dand Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.de. Open o ß a r n t r S e n t fe Matst12:00 r. for a stroll and a beer inPuVolkspark Friedrichshain. - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. AUBSW Elden str. aer S Str. tr. str. Eldenaer tr. s m a Dolzig s h g e ü P er Str alisa Alle M idenw dens . e We Strausberger Platz Bänsc tr. Bersarinhstr. ume U R nstr ig aer eg platz Karl-Ma Weidenw w . B n S änsch e chrein eg Str. rx-Allee str. Weid erstr. U Weberwiese Frankfurter Tor K Rigae H.-Jadam arl-Marx-A r S llee U owitz-Str. tr. Singers Frankfurte Samariterstr. Frankfurter Allee tr. r U S Allee Rü U de Box rsd hage Langestr. or f Scharnweb Frankfurter Allee str. Grünbe n er er rg erstr. kind Str. Am Str. er St Wede G rü r n . berger ma Ba Wri S tr e r kt h . z nh en Ostbahnhof str Boxhagener Platz Am of er Wr . Od Os S Kope ers Krosse Kairezene tba rniku We tr. ner A Str r sstr. h r n e ser nho Str. ala der e str f uer Os . tba Pla hn Wüh tz Fo lisch Revale Wies rm str. 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Friedrichshain INTERNATIONAL

CLUBS

SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service – what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian options.QI‑3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 24:00. €. TUNGBS

BERGHAIN A legendary techno club. Pretty much anything goes on the main dance floor, in the Panorama Bar and in the dark rooms of this huge old power plant. The doorman picks from the queue of hopefuls to create the right mix, so parties are always varied and exciting. Arrive early Sunday morning for the best atmosphere. There are concerts and events on weekdays too, and in summer an outdoor Diskogarten.QI‑3/4, Am Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 29 36 02 10, www.berghain.de. Open Fri 24:00 - Sat 12:00, Sat 24:00 - Mon 09:00. U­N­G­B­W

CAFÉS KAUFBAR At this homey café you can wash down your chocolate croissant with either a coffee or carafe of red wine. Excepting the wine, you can buy everything here to-go: the lampshades, art work, chairs and even the ashtrays. The only thing not for sale in the “Buy Bar” are their board games.QJ‑4, Gärtnerstraße 4, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 77 88 25, www.kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 15:00 - 24:00. TUNGBSW MACONDO Macondo was the setting of García Márquez’ novel 100 Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful ‘reading café’. There’s old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday market, good coffee and original South American mate tea, sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI‑4, Gärtnerstraße 14, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, info@mancondo-berlin. de, www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW

Nightlife BARS ASTRO-BAR A firm Friedrichshain favourite, this incredibly scruffy sci-fi themed bar is open late - very late - and serves good cocktails at great prices. Visited by a wild variety of people, weekend evenings are the best times to come, when DJs from Berlin’s underground party scene spin their electropop and retro records. No real dancefloor unfortunately, but nobody will stop you from just wiggling anywhere. It has an Attacks From Mars pinball machine.QI‑4, Simon-Dach-Straße 40, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße. Open from 20:00 - open end. DJs every night from 22:00. B CRACK BELLMER A barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking however; there’s film screenings, and a good-sized space for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Straße.QI‑4, Revaler Straße 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, www.crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. U­N­B 44 Berlin In Your Pocket

MATRIX Directly underneath under the Warschauer Straße U-Bahn station DJs lay down tracks of R’n’B, straight house, soul, electro, disco and pop on seven dance floors within the vaults that date back to 1901. There’s always a party here, 365 nights a year. Thursday is student night, Friday has party classics with free champagne before midnight for ladies, Saturday is Fruity Night, with juicy cocktails.QI‑4, Warschauer Platz 18, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 36 99 90, www.matrix-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 06:00. Admission €3-6. U­G­B­W

Sightseeing MUSEUMS COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM (COMPUTER GAME MUSEUM) The world’s first computer games museum presents six epic decades of gaming history, including the Nimrom - the world’s first game computer - the Giant Joystick, Painstation, Arcade Hall, the legendary Pong machine, a Wall of Hardware and modern 3D games. With 300 exhibits, rare originals and working classics, you’re welcome to try out many games yourself.QI‑3, Karl-Marx-Allee 93a, Friedrichshain, MU Weberwiese, tel. +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.computerspielemuseum.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Admission €9/6. STASI PRISON The most hard-hitting of all GDR-related museums, the Stasi Prison shows the sheer brutality of this dictatorship. Used by the Soviets and the GDR’s secret service to extract confessions in advance of (show) trials, the Hohenschönhausen prison swallowed thousands of people who underwent horrific physical and psychological torture in the chilling ‘submarine’ cell block and the interrogation rooms. A short film is followed by an excellent 90-minute guided tour, vividly explaining how efficiently the prison system worked, and how nobody ever escaped. Take tram M5 from Alexanderplatz to Freienwalder Straße and walk 600 metres.QGenslerstraße 66, tel. +49 30 98 60 82 30, www.stiftung-hsh.de. English tours on Wed, Sat, Sun at 14:30. Admission €5. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Prenzlauer Berg On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old working-class district in the former East Berlin that came through the war relatively unscathed. After 1989, the cool brigade pounced on the area, and houses that were once home to East German punks were renovated in odes to pastel. The number of wine shops and young parents pushing pricey prams indicates the level of gentrification here. The best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz, Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer Berg’s best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre, set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the west.

POCKET WALK: PRENZLAUER BERG Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstraße from U-Bahn station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn into beautiful Husemannstraße, which was already restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistraße where you’ll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead; enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Straße and amble down Lychenerstraße to pretty, café-lined Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstraße west, turn left down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn station to Eberswalder Straße; you’ll soon reach the popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Straße with its excellent Wall Memorial.

HOTEL MYER’S HOTEL BERLIN Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myer’s is an upmarket private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms overlooking the garden. On the ground floor, a tearoom has a pleasant summer terrace.QH‑2, Metzer Straße 26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 40, info@myershotel.de, www.myershotel. de. 51 rooms (8 singles €75 - 135, 33 doubles €85 Erich -We 10 Premium €115 - 265). - ei185, 1 suite €195 Rode - 345, Schivelb iner ner Str. nber t-St gr. Kug HARG le er

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Prenzlauer Berg Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN DIE SCHULE Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk. Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can have all the German food classics, and even better: you can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG‑2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-dieschule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW METZER ECK Opened 1913, time seems to have stood still in the oldest tavern in Prenzlauer Berg - and that’s the way the regulars like it. The Eck serves inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages, Boulette (hamburger), and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes), and has a letter from artist Heinrich Zille to the first tavern owner hanging on the back wall, as well as a savings box that regulars once contributed to.QG‑2, Metzer Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 442 76 56, info@metzer-eck.de, www.metzer-eck.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €. N­G­B­S

DAILY 11.00 – 24.00

Die Schule

RESTAURATION 1900 Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options. Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at the weekly market, and on Sundays to fill up at the allyou-can-eat breakfast buffet.QH‑2, Husemannstraße 1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 23:00. €-€€. TBSW

FAST FOOD KONNOPKE’S IMBISS The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin wrapping).QG‑1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65, www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €.

INTERNATIONAL

Modern and light German food on Berlin‘s catwalk no.1 KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN FON: (030) 78 00 89 5-50 info@restaurant-die-schule.de www.restaurant-die-schule.de U2

Eberswalder Str.

46 Berlin In Your Pocket

U8

Rosenthaler Platz

FLEISCHLUST A spot for those with healthy lust for flesh can grill ‘n chill. Staff in 1930s outfits serve excellent steaks, cooked anything from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the undecided, there’s a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve into the wine and cocktail menu.QH‑1, Pappelallee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 67 54 14, http://fleischlust.jimdo.com. Open 17:00 - open end. GUGELHOF During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrification, the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state: Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; this is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.QH‑2, Knaackstraße 37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, gugelhof@t-online.de, www.gugelhof.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A berlin.inyourpocket.com


Prenzlauer Berg ITALIAN PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB

JAPANESE SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd this five-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki, California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak English.QH‑2, Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€.

SANTIAGO This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a somewhat dodgy interior – leather sofas and glitzy girl statues that wouldn’t look out of place in a nightclub – but manages to get the punters in with a range of attractively priced offers like cocktails during the happy (before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). There’s an eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at weekends.QH‑2, Wörtherstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open 16:00 - 03:00. WEINSTEIN An older crowd savours an evening of conversation and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better places to try the outstanding German whites that usually don’t make it out of the country and there’s also a selection of sherries.QH‑1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42, weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.

CAFÉS ANNA BLUME Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts, it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just reading. Intriguingly, it also sells flowers (Blume) from the connected shop next door – and the smell of coffee and fresh flowers combines very well.QH‑2, Kollwitzstraße 83, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00. SCHALL UND RAUCH ‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar at night together with a variety of artists, students and young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent hotel has modern and affordable double rooms.QG‑1, Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

Nightlife BARS AUGUST FENGLER A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley) too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco, and funk in the small back dance room.QG‑1, Lychner Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. facebook.com/InYourPocket

@InYourPocket WOHNZIMMER If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDRera tables are constantly being shuffled to make room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s coffee and pastries in the morning.QH‑1, Lettestraße 6, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00.

CLUBS GEBURTSTAGSKLUB Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of this otherwise spacious cellar. Don’t miss the mad monthly drag party with Nina Queer. Like at many clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.QH‑2, Am Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Schillingstraße, tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00. SODA CLUB In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with a lesson hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five dancefloors with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get in for free until 01:00.QSchönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 443 151 55, info@sodaberlin.de, www.soda-berlin.de. Open Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00 Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00. August - September 2017

47


Prenzlauer Berg Sightseeing LANDMARKS KULTURBRAUEREI Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century brewery and you’ll eventually find an entryway into a nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is filled with bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only thing you won’t find is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to live bands.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52, www.kulturbrauerei.de.

Raumerstr. 8 [Helmholtzplatz] 40301770 www.tausche.de

MUSEUMS ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZEL’S MIETSHAUS Gentrification has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating museum shows master carpenter Brunzel’s apartment in its original state, with extensive information about its construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid living conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and Berlin.QH‑1, Dunckerstraße 77, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.de. Open 11:00 16:30. Closed Wed. Admission €2/1.

FASHION & SHOES TAUSCHE TASCHEN Bags with exchangeable flaps in over 100 different designs. Two flaps are included and various insets equip the bag to suit any occasion.QH‑1, Raumerstraße 8, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 70, info@tausche.de, www. tausche.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

PARKS AND GARDENS MAUERPARK The immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery to speak of; this is an intensely used piece of former border strip that’s especially busy on Sundays when it hosts a flea market and the immensely popular Bearpit Karaoke (every second Sunday from 15:00), where anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a crowd of thousands.QG‑1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark. info.

Shopping BOOKS SHAKESPEARE & SONS An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language books as well as coffee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH‑1, Raumerstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. 48 Berlin In Your Pocket

MARKETS FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative souvenirs and antiques - it’s all available (though not particularly cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark flea market. Arrive early to avoid the crowds.QG‑1, Bernauer Straße 63-64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Straße, tel. 0176 29 25 00 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun 09:00-15:00.

Full contents online: berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com


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POCKET WALK: KREUZBERG Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der Luftbrücke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards and walk along genteel Bergmannstraße, perhaps visiting a café or the market hall, before walking south to Columbiadamm for access to the former Tempelhof airport, now a wonderful park. Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through ‘little Istanbul’ to Oranienplatz and follow the park to the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across Landwehrkanal into the trendy ‘Kreuzkölln’ district for cupcakes and cocktails.

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Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a bong at, Kreuzberg feels neither east nor west. It was the black sheep of West Berlin, literally cornered up against the death strip and left alone to play loud music and draw on the walls. By now, the protesting students of 1968 have grown grey alongside the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987, Kreuzberg relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional May Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into a long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise, Kreuzberg is aMITTE perfectly safe district to wander through, and it’s all about backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular Oranienstraße and Bergmannstraße drags. This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors in summer, and the upcoming Neukölln district. Here, the Kreuzkölln area around Reuterstraße is increasingly attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird nightlife spots.

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Colu tr. om rel Top es Mauerm l a str. ers nbiad sStr. park Karlsgarte tr. amm r. Rathaus Neukölln S U o st k w t r Eberswalder Str. r. U er lder Str. a w L s Do He illir. Wo Eber st . tr n ns lffring nBoddi Danzig Strochr. Al FlugShafe U Boddinstr. . Fr er Neckarst ls

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Kreuzberg Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN ALTES ZOLLHAUS A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities featuring things such as goat’s cheese, dumplings, mustard sauce and compotes. QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.altes-zollhaus.com. Open 18:00 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. TUGBW

youtube.com/inyourpocket HENNE Who knew that the Germans fried chicken? Other than a few Wursts, chicken is all that’s served in this cosy corner tavern, along with sides of coleslaw and mayonnaise-filled potato salad. The crisp, salty skin gives you another reason for quaffing yet another beer or wine. For a few euros, you get a lot of wood-paneled atmosphere.QH‑4, Leuschnerdamm 25, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 614 77 30, www.henne-berlin.de. Open Tues-Sat from 19:00; Sun 17:00-22:00. Mon closed. €€. N­G­B­S

50 Berlin In Your Pocket

PAGODE Simply one of the best Thai restaurants in town. It feels crowded, steamy and noisy, but that’s just part of the authentic selfservice atmosphere; wait till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are flown in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. VBS

KARTOFFELPFANNE The best-tasting potatoes in Berlin, Wiener Schnitzel and vanilla pudding with Rote Grütze (fruit sauce) are all found at the Pfanne. The good beer selection includes Warsteiner and Weihenstephan.QF‑5, Burgherrenstraße 11, Tempelhof, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 892 59 49, www.kartoffelpfanne.de. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €-€€. T­U­N­G­B­S­W

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Kreuzberg

THAIRESTAURANT Sarod’s

ASIAN

traditional healthy Thai cuisine fresh and dainty

KIM QUI The popular ‘golden turtle’ serves authentic Vietnamese food in pleasant surroundings at incredibly good prices, with delicious hot pho soup dishes. Hot and cold rice and noodle meals are complemented by fruity shakes and exotic ice cream desserts.QF‑2, Oranienstraße 168, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 27 58 31 68, www.kim-qui.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. €. T­N­G­B­S KINNAREE THAI Named after a mythological creature representing female beauty and grace, Kinnaree is a friendly and affordable Thai restaurant serving everything from Satay Gai chicken skewers in peanut sauce to spicy green curry with shrimps and bamboo. There’s a range of cocktails and quality wines too.QSüdstern 14, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 57 79 41 99, www.kinnaree-thai.de. Open 12:00–23:00, Sat 13:00– 23:00. SAROD’S Kreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent, healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat with roast rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good selection of wines too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. TGBSW

AUSTRIAN AUSTRIA Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and antlers on the wall.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 30, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www. austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUBS facebook.com/InYourPocket

Open daily 12:00-24:00 Sundays from 14:00 Friesenstraße 22 tel. 69 50 73 33 www.sarods.de August - September 2017

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Kreuzberg RIEHMERS Gorgeous, contemporary dining in elegant Kreuzberg surroundings. The food is as upmarket as the place itself, and the menu changes with the seasons: the chef uses only what’s fresh and available. It’s always a mix of inventive fusion cuisine and modern remakes of classic dishes, including a wild garlic risotto that will have you doing cartwheels of delight. At this time of year the tables outside on the street are a prize worth reserving well in advance. Prices very good given the high quality.QF‑5, Hagelbergerstraße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmers-restaurant.de. Open 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€-€€€. T­G­B­S­W

Riehmers

FAST FOOD BERGMANN CURRY A fast food joint with quality organic Currywurst, fries, meat balls and more. The menus include the ‘Rockefella’ dish served on porcelain with a glass of champagne, and there’s vegan wurst, burgers and sweet potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot chilli sauce from the bottles on the ‘board of pain’.QBergmannstraße 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmann-curry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. CURRY 36 If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, you’ll order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you might earn an iota of respect from the hardboiled Fraus who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin specialities you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables are the fried burgers, Boulette.QF‑5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www.curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. €. S GLÜCK TO GO This unusual fast-food restaurant was inspired by a trip to India’s Gujarat province and serves happiness to go: delicious protein-rich vegetarian/vegan burgers, fries with ayurvedic spices, and healthy juice concoctions; all home-made with organic and regionally sourced ingredients. The delicious 52 Berlin In Your Pocket

Orient Express burger has beet root, spices and special date chutney, and there’s three other burgers to choose from. Finish off with a low-fat Shrikhand yoghurt. Set menus from €6-8,50.QF‑5, Friesenstraße 26, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 623 10 04, www.glueck-togo.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-20:00. €. B

INTERNATIONAL ANKERKLAUSE The bohemians that hang out here are late-risers who come to watch the Turkish market unfold and witness how peacefully gulls, swans and cruise boats can co-exist. On a good day, the French toast with fruit can come out looking like it’s auditioning for the Waldorf-Astoria’s buffet. The Mexican breakfast will tide you over for two meals.QH‑5, Kottbusser Damm 104, Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 30 693 56 49, www.ankerklause.de. Open 10:00-04:00, Mon 16:0004:00. €. T­U­N­G­B HOPPETOSSE An elegant white ship moored along Treptow’s Arena complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional and international meals to go with good sunset views towards Oberbaumbrücke bridge, just upstream. For daytime visitors there’s drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit up on deck to catch the sea breeze.QI‑5, Eichenstraße 4, Treptow, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 40, www.arenaberlin.de. Open 12:00-23:00. €-€€. N­G­B­S­W VAN LOON Where better to eat fish than at this lovely restaurant ship, moored in the peaceful Urbanhafen habour on the Landwehrkanal: the downstairs lounge has large windows, but the view’s better from the sundeck. There’s salmon, herring and smoked fish specialities as well as a range of special fish & chips. The daily menu has meat, vegetarian and vegan meals too.QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 7, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 62 93, www.vanloon. de. Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. T­E­N­G­B­W

ITALIAN +39 PIÙTRENTANOVE Plus 39 is what you dial to reach Italy - but ringing won’t be necessary here as a corner of that country can be found in this cosy restaurant right opposite the Viktoriapark. Italian chefs dish up great XXL pizza, fresh pasta, risotto, homemade bread and other delicacies.QMöckernstraße 73a, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 70 09 42 06, www.piu39.de. Open 11:30 - 00:00. CALIGARI A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez neighbourhood of Neukölln, with freshly made pasta, soups, salads and deserts. They’re planning Supper Club nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things could happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neukölln, tel. +49 30 52 64 98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00 - 23:00. berlin.inyourpocket.com


Rie mers

Kreuzberg

CICCIOLINA Dedicated to divas such as Jeff Koon’s porn star ex-wife La Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious Italian restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food, and a great terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try the Strasburgo flammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard and Tirol bacon.QH‑4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60, www.cicciolina-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €-€€. TUNGBSW GORGONZOLA CLUB An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the green outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner cocktails simply go next door to the Würgeengel bar.QH‑4, Dresdener Straße 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €. B OSTERIA N°1 Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from different parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six different lunch menus from €7.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße 71, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www. osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. B

WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE Within a historic market hall building, the rustic Markthalle restaurant is long and tall, with wainscoting, simple wooden furniture and a bar that locals belly up to. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t let its looks carry it: the kitchen takes pride in its nouvelle takes on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes weekly, but count on Spätzle, Schweinebraten (braised pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to American-style, and as late as 16:00. After dinner, check if anything is going down in the Auster Club in the cellar.QH‑4, Pücklerstraße 34, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurant-markthalle.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. B facebook.com/InYourPocket

Hagelberger Straße 9 10965 Berlin T 030 78 89 19 80 www.riehmers-restaurant.de

JAPANESE RICE UP A tiny onigiri kiosk on the platform of the U-Bahn station sells delicious organic bento box take-away meals, consisting of nori seaweed, rice and various fillings: vegan, veg, fish or chicken. There’s coffee, chai, lemonade and smoothies too. Also in Mitte, at Friedrichstraße 114.QH‑5, Kottbusser Damm (Schönleinstraße U-Bahn station), Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 151 50 10 13 88, www.riceup.de. Open 07:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. Closed Sun. €. S

BEER GARDENS DAS EDELWEISS The goods platform of the old Görlitzer Bahnhof train station now serves as a lovely deck-chaired terrace for the Edelweiss restaurant and café. There’s all-day breakfast, great German cuisine with seasonal and regional products, drinks, and live Jazz sessions on Tuesday nights. It’s especially well-positioned for people-watching; Görlitzer Park attracts Berlin’s most varied crowd.QH‑5, Görlitzerstraße 1-3 (Görlitzer Park), Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 07 48 58, www.edelweiss36.com. Open 09:30-02:00. €€. T­U­E­B­W

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Kreuzberg GOLGATHA The most gruesome end you’ll meet at this Biergarten at the southwest end of Viktoriapark is the sunrise. Those watching their melanoma sit under the red umbrellas near the table-football and grill, while sunbathers go to the rooftop for a view of the playground and football field. DJ music begins most nights at 22:00 inside on the small dance floor.QF‑5, Katzbachstraße (Viktoriapark), Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 785 24 53, www.golgatha-berlin.de. Open from 10:00. €. TUBSW

BEER HOUSES DOLDEN MÄDEL BRAUGASTHAUS A fun little brewery bar named after hop flowers, with 20 craft beers on tap and many more great beers in bottles everything from Pilsener, IPA, Belgian beers and Trappist to Bock. Order the full board for 5 samplers of their best beers. There’s also cider and wine, and the varied food menu lists meals and snacks from steak and schnitzel to vegetarian dishes.QMehringdamm 80, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 77 32 62 13, info@doldenmaedel.de, www.doldenmaedel.de. Open 11:30 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:30.

CAFÉS BELLE ALLIANCE COFFEE Fresh, seasonal food cooked in a modern, contemporary setting in Kreuzberg. The menu changes more or less every day, and there will always be something to take your fancy. Great coffee, cracking wines and an atmosphere as relaxed as they come. The team who run the place have done a fantastic job in creating a venue that does Berlin dining as it really ought to be.QF‑5, Merhingdamm 56, MU Merhingdamm, tel. +49 30 23 94 82 38. Open 10:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. P­T­V­B­S­W CAFÉ AM ENGELBECKEN Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michael’s church is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was once a canal. Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond is a sunny terrace café. View of the water and the rustling tall green reeds makes this a peaceful respite from all things city

54 Berlin In Your Pocket

while still being near the heart of Kreuzberg (and can you believe this area was once filled with rubble, and part of the Wall’s death strip?). Pizza and snacks are served and they offer a choice of cocktails.QH‑4, Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte, MU Heinrich-Heine-Straße, tel. +49 157 88 94 70 91, www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €. TUNGBSW CAFÉ RIX A fabulous café that’s completely worth the trek out to Berlin’s shabbiest and most multicultural neighbourhood. Many entertainment halls were built in this part of town, attracting thousands of Berliners at weekends. Rix is one of the last remaining entertainment halls in the area, dating from 1880 and all gold twirls, high ceilings and big mirrors. It’s just perfect for sipping coffee and munching on cake, or for a well-prepared meal. Combine it with a concert at the adjacent Heimathafen or a visit to Rixdorf’s old village square and the lush Körnerpark.QKarl-Marx-Straße 141, Neukölln, MU Karl-Marx-Straße, tel. +49 30 686 90 20, www.caferix.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TUNGBSW CAFÉ SAROTTI-HÖFE Lovely Kreuzberg café with a large terrace, a bistrorestaurant serving snacks and meals, and a bar with beers and cocktails. Drop by for coffee with a slice of cake from the brunch buffet (choose from 30 varieties). At Sunday brunchtime they switch on the chocolate fountain, filled with Sarotti chocolate of course, as this building was once their factory.QF‑5, Mehringdamm 53-57, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 60 03 16 80, www.cafesarottihoefe.de. Open 24hrs. SALON SCHMÜCK A crash-pad style neighbourhood café that looks like a time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The food is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast, lunch and fantastic home-made juice - just make your own selection of fruit. Come evening and there are cocktails and DJs, and even the occasional living room concert.QI‑4, Skalitzer Straße 80, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 69 00 47 75, www.salon-schmueck.de. Open 09:0002:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-05:00. €. T­N­G­B­S­W

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Kreuzberg Sightseeing MUSEUMS DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM Not just one of Berlin’s best museums, this place is one of Europe’s top science attractions. It is unmistakably recognisable by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended high above the main building. Spread over a huge area, the Deutsches Technikmuseum is a vast complex set in and around an old freight station rail depot and has planes, trains, cars, bikes, computers, phones, radios and much, much more. Individual exhibitions cover every aspect of technology, from the founding of the printing press to space exploration. There are thousands of hands-on exhibits, and kids of all ages will love it. The highlight for us has always been the exhibition of 40 original trains and locomotives, on display at the former Anhalter Bahnhof station at the museum’s rear.QF‑4, Trebbiner Straße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40, www.sdtb.de/museumof-technology/623/. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/4. Tickets also valid for the Spectrum Science Centre. FEUERLE COLLECTION A new private museum housed in a fantastic former telecommunications bunker restyled by UK architect John Pawson, showcasing Désiré Feuerle’s Southeast Asian art collection. This consists of both ancient artworks (think 7th century Khmer statues and Chinese lacquerware furniture) and contemporary art including photography and haunting minimal music by John Cage.QF‑4, Hallesches Ufer 70, Kreuzberg, MS Anhalter Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 25 79 23 20, www. thefeuerlecollection.org/wordpress. Open Fri 14:00-19:00, Sat & Sun 11:00-19:00 for prebooked tours. Admission €18/11. HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE A homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks, tools, videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunnel-digging attest to necessity and desire being the mother of invention. Visit this museum for dramatic stories of separated lovers, freedom-seeking families, and fed-up senior citizens in the GDR who breached the Wall. The museum also has art interpreting the concrete division of the city, and an exhibit on human rights movements. QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 43-45, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 251 20 75, www.mauermuseum.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission €12,50/9,50. JÜDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many ways in which German life and Jewish history are intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’ for contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF‑4, Lindenstraße 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2,50, special exhibitions €4/2, combined ticket €7/3,50. facebook.com/InYourPocket

MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this is the work of Martin Gropius, great uncle of Walter Gropius, a founder of the Bauhaus school of design. The building was completed in 1881 and originally served as a royal art museum. Like most of central Berlin, it ended the war in a badly damaged state and wasn’t re-opened until 1981. Today, under the auspices of the Berliner Festspiele, the Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts excellent touring exhibitions. QF‑4, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau. de. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. SPECTRUM SCIENCE CENTRE Kids will love this place, offering more than 150 handson exhibits and experiments spread over four floors of a glorious former old industrial building next to the Deutsches Technikmuseum. Why is the sky blue? Can you see heat? Any why does a plane stay up in the sky? These are just three of the hundreds of questions that you will able to have answered at the Science Centre. You can also learn how to play a laser guitar, although the hall of mirrors will probably the biggest delight of a visit here.QF‑4, Möckernstrasse 26, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 42 84, www.sdtb.de/spectrum/startseite/. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/4. Tickets also valid for the Deutsches Technikmuseum. TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars are all that remain of the palace housing the Reich Security (SS) Office. The fascinating exhibition in the trench and the adjacent pavilion and park uses models, texts and photos to highlight the topography of the Third Reich police, military and security groups that were headquartered in this area, and discusses their organisation and the terror they cast across Europe. The most important lesson to take home is perhaps that these organisation only managed to thrive thanks to the continuous cooperation of many institutes and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF‑4, Niederkirchnerstraße 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission free.

PARKS & GARDENS VIKTORIAPARK Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the corner of Kreuzbergstraße and Großbeerenstraße for an eyeful of the park’s waterfall, constructed in the late 19th century. Kids stripped to their knickers wade in between the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres above, people lean back against the graffiti-laden monument to take in the panoramic view. Towards the back of the park, past a playground and off the Bacci field, is the Golgotha beer garden. Running parallel to Kreuzbergstraße is a small petting zoo where children and goats get to meet and bleat.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm. August - September 2017

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Kreuzberg Nightlife BARS FREISCHWIMMER After a five-minute walk south of Schlesisches Tor, follow the bush-lined pathway left after the petrol station to this peaceful bar that hovers over a side canal. In summer use the comfy deck lounges; in cooler weather heat lamps help keep away the chill.QI‑5, Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 07 43 09, www.freischwimmer-berlin.de. Open Mo-Fri from 12:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. TUENGBW GALANDER A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF‑4, Grossbeerenstraße 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E MILCHBAR It is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to cheer on their teams when football games are screened. The murals and dark décor can heighten your wooziness if you’ve had one round too many.QH‑4, Manteuffelstraße 41, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611 70 06, www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00. N­B­W WÜRGEENGEL Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuel’s film El Ángel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50 reasons to delay your departure. To round it all off, there are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH‑4, Dresdener Straße 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00. €€. B

CLUBS JUNCTION BAR Squeezing onto the bat-cave of a stage is fine for a fourman blues band, but dios mio for the ten-piece AfroCuban ensembles. Live music draws an ethnically and generationally mixed audience every night of the week. After the band, a DJ keeps everyone tight on the dance floor.QF‑5, Gneisenaustraße 18, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 66 02, www.junctionbar.de. Open 20:00-04:00. E­N­G­B 56 Berlin In Your Pocket

SO36 Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution that’s home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks and metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans. On popular club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party or Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the friendly door staff.QH‑4, Oranienstraße 190, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www. so36.de. Check their website for opening times. UENG WATERGATE This club right on the edge of the Spree River is great for spying on Universal Music headquarters across the water, even if the crowd here would never dance to their pop artists. Also in view (and right next door) is the turreted Oberbaumbrücke, which makes an odd backdrop to techno, house, or any guest DJ on the upper or lower dance floors.QI‑4, Falckensteinstraße 49, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 28 03 94, www.watergate.de. Open Wed, Fri, Sat from 24:00. Admission €812. U­E­N­G­B WILD AT HEART Rock on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs for the stage area.QH‑5, Wiener Straße 20, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www. wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB

JAZZ CLUBS YORCKSCHLÖSSCHEN This Kreuzberg institution has been here for over a century, gathering fame in the 1970s as an artists’ watering hole and now a hub of local social life. There’s a busy bar that features regular live music, with the emphasis on traditional jazz, swing and black rhythm’n’blues. Concerts take place on Wed, Fri and Sat night and Sun afternoon. Diner here is very nicely priced.QF‑5, Yorckstraße 15, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 215 80 70, www. yorckschloesschen.de. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 03:00. €€. T­E­B­S­W

Hotels HOTEL SAROTTI-HÖFE A charming hotel set in a former chocolate factory in one of Berlin’s most characteristic districts, with sights, dining and nightlife around the corner. The comfortable rooms and apartments are individually decorated in colonial style, and the hotel is known for its cleanliness. Note there’s no elevator.QF‑5, Mehringdamm 53-57, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 60 03 16 80, www.hotelsarottihoefe.de. berlin.inyourpocket.com


City Tours

B ERLINER U NTERWELTEN E.V. Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture

Berlin from below Cold War and WW II bunker tours

Different tours every day • see: www.berliner-unterwelten.de Subway: Gesundbrunnen (U8), southern entrance-hall • Brunnenstraße 105 Anzeige in your pocketcorner 2011.indd1 1 though you’ll need There’s a story on every in Berlin, a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city and attractions are fairly far-flung, so plan your itinerary well. If you’re here for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings.

BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS BERLIN CITY TOUR Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about two hours; the green ones have live English commentary; red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfürstendamm 14,

BERLIN UNDERWORLDS

‘Berlin Underworlds’ allows you to experience Berlin’s history from an unusual perspective, through its underground installations dating back to the Cold War, World War II and earlier. Though predominantly in the spaces below Berlin´s Gesundbrunnen station, tours are also offered in several other complexes usually not accessible to the public. The following tours are held in English; check the website for all dates and times, and for tours in German, Spanish, Dutch, French, Italian and Danish. Tours take 90 minutes, the M tour is 2 hours. Tour 1, Dark Worlds: a bunker from the Nazi era. Tour 2, From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris: visit the the rubble-filled Humboldthain Flak Tower, a devastated albeit fascinating underground world. Tour 3, Subways, Bunkers, Cold War: a political history of Berlin from an unusual perspective. facebook.com/InYourPocket

15.01.2011 6:58:28 Uhr the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on or hop-off as you like. There’s also a narrated ‘Wall & Lifestyle’ tour taking in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49 30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets €15/12/5.

CITY CIRCLE BUSES Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours. Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen languages. Kurfürstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are the two main starting points, but you can get on and off at some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are Tour M, Breaching the Berlin Wall: subterranean escapes from East Berlin to West Berlin. Unterwelten also has a fascinating seasonal exhibition about the Nazi’s megalomanic plans to turn Berlin into the Welthauptstadt Germania, the ‘World Capital City’, with documents, photos and models. The multimedia exhibition “Myth of Germania – Vision and crime” allows visitors to peek inside Hitler’s mind and explore the complex topic of his city planning , and see what came of the plans. BERLINER UNTERWELTEN, Brunnenstraße 105 (Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station, southern entrance), tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17. Tours €11/9, tour M €14/11. No reservation required, but check tour times and languages online at www.berliner-unterwelten.de. “Myth of Germania” exhibition open Apr-Oct, ThuSun 11:00-18:00, Nov-Mar Sat & Sun 11:00-16:00, admission €6/5, €3 in combination with a tour, www.mythos-germania.de.

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City Tours Full contents online: berlin.inyourpocket.com BERLIN LOCALS Tailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by limo, lead by local German historians who can often relate historical events to their family’s personal experience. Tour themes range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich to street art, railways and architecture. The guides are also licenced for Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are in English or German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, info@ berlinlocals.com, www.berlinlocals.com. Tours €40 per hour, €250 per day. INBERLIN TOURS Specialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at fixed times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, info@inberlin.de, www.inberlin.de. Tickets €10-16.

Berliner Bären Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX Sightseeing (www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus Verkehr Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www.berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets €22/11. Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) €16,50/11. LINO CITY TOURS Cruise around Berlin’s main sights in style, seated in an open-top Piaggio Ape Calessino vehicle. Knowledgeable guides drive these cute Italian three-wheeled cars around the city, offering general one-hour highlights tours to longer tailor-made trips around Berlin’s most interesting suburbs. Call to book, or look for them on Pariser Platz near Brandenburger Tor.Qtel. +49 30 80 57 84 70, www.lino-city-tours.com. Tours from €25 per person.

WALKING & CYCLING TOURS ALTERNATIVE BERLIN TOURS After the 4-hour Real Berlin tour (daily at 12:00, €12) you’ll know all about Berlin’s subcultures, the graffiti and stencil art, street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the gay scene, and the squatter and anti-fascist movements. Knowledgeable resident artists poke at Berlin’s dark, fuzzy underbelly on a variety of walks; there are also free short walks (daily at 11:00 and 13:00), twilight tours, a street art workshop and an ‘anti-pubcrawl’. QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162 819 82 64, www.alternativeberlin.com. Tickets €10-20. 58 Berlin In Your Pocket

ISHERWOOD’S NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable ‘Sodom on the Spree’ with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous club and revue theatre scene - in explosive political circumstances. The young gay British writer Christopher Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye To Berlin (of Cabaret movie fame). This excellent one-hour tour through Isherwood’s Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is spiced up with quotes and references to notorious 1920s party-goers like Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich.QD‑4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42, brendan@10777tours.com, www.cabaret-berlin.com. Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand. Book ahead. Tickets €15. ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKS The daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at 10.30 and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third Reich, Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.Qtel. +49 30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets €12/10. SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURS The Berlin blog dedicated to ‘slow travel’ offers quirky cultural-historical tours. In small groups you explore Berlin’s most fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in West Berlin, a walk on Kreuzberg’s wild west side, a trip along the Wall, down lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march through Kaiser Wilhelm’s Berlin.Qwww.slowtravelberlin. com/tours. Tickets €15.

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River Tours After flowing a bucolic 400km from the Czech border region to Berlin, the river Spree goes out with a bang before disappearing into the Havel near Spandau. Cutting a curvy passage through Berlin, it provides tremendous views of the Dom cathedral, the Reichstag and the government district and the Berlin Wall near Ostbahnhof. Some of the Spree is diverted along park-lined canals, and Berlin has more bridges than Venice or Amsterdam.

APP

Short city centre cruise tours depart regularly from the boat landings near the Museumsinsel, Friedrichstraße, Hauptbahnhof station and the Haus der Kulturen der Welt in the park. The 3.5-hour Brücke (bridges) tours cruise past all the city centre sights, down Landwehrkanal and past the beautiful Oberbaumbrücke. Here we list your options with English narration. Sail away.

MS SCHIFFSKONTOR Rent an antique boat and sail just about anywhere on Berlin’s waterways. There’s the rustic open-top Oskar from 1930, or rent the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink beauty from 1950 in which you’ll look dashing with dark sunglasses and a flowing scarf.Qtel. +49 30 246 47 99 60, www.schiffskontor.de. BERLINER WASSERTAXI One-hour tours of the main sights in the city centre, with departures every 30 minutes from Zeughaus, next to the Historisches Museum, and from Domaquareé opposite the Berliner Dom church.Qtel. +49 30 658 802 03, info@ berlinerwassertaxi.de, www.berlinerwassertaxi.de. Tickets €14/10.

REEDEREI WINKLER Winkler’s one-hour Stadtrundfahrt tours depart up to 10 times daily from beside Friedrichstraße station. The 3-3.5 hour Spreefahrt river tours from Schlossbrücke in Charlottenburg take in the river beyond the city centre sights. There are evening departures too, and check the website for the special culinary and party cruises. QF‑3, Reichstagufer jetty, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 349 95 95, www. reedereiwinkler.de. Tickets: Stadtrundfahrt €12,50/1011,50, Spreefahrt €19-21,50/17-19,50. facebook.com/InYourPocket

CHARTERTRIPS ON HISTORICAL BOATS ... e.g. Moonlight-Trips with Aphrodite or Oskar 10245 Berlin-Stralau, near Tunnelstrasse 36 Tel. (030) 246 47 99 60 www.schiffskontor.de

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Directory & Street Register BUSINESS CONNECTIONS AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QCharlottenstraße 42, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 28 87 89 20, www.amcham.de. DEUTSCHE INDUSTRIE-UND HANDELSKAMMER (CHAMBER OF COMMERCE) QBreite Straße 29, Mitte, MU Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 20 30 80, www.dihk.de.

EMBASSIES AUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstraße 76-79, Mitte, MU Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, www.australian-embassy.de. IRELAND QF-3, Jägerstraße 51, Mitte, MU Hausvogteiplatz, tel. +49 30 22 07 20, www.embassyofireland.de.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Emergencies, ambulance, fire tel. +49 30 112; Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31; Police tel. +49 30 110; Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64.

HOSPITALS BENJAMIN FRANKLIN CLINICAL CENTRE QKlingsorstraße, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel. +49 30 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de. CHARITÉ UNIVERSITÄTSKLINIKUM QF-3, Schumannstraße 20-21, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 45 050, www.charite.de.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS

UNITED KINGDOM QF-3, Wilhelmstraße 70-71, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 45 70, www.britischebotschaft.de.

BERLITZ MITTE QF-3, Friedrichstraße 95, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 204 21 24, www.berlitz.de/de/berlin_mitte.

USA American Citizen Services: tel. 832 92 33.QF-3, Pariser Platz 2, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 830 50, www.usembassy.de.

GLS QG-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 78 00 89 16, www.gls-german-courses.de.

Ackerstraße F/G‑2 Adalbertstraße H‑4 Admiralstraße G/H‑5 Albrechtstraße F‑3 Alexanderplatz G‑3 Alexanderstraße G‑3 Alexanderufer F‑2/3 Alexandrinenstraße F‑4 Alt-Moabit C‑3/E‑3 Alte Jakobstraße F‑4 Alte Schönhauser Straße G‑2 Altonaer Straße D‑3 Am Friedrichshain H‑2 Am Karlsbad F‑4 Am Kupfergraben F‑3 Am Ostbahnhof H‑4 Anhalter Straße F‑4 Arndtstraße F‑5 Augsburger Straße C/D‑4 Auguststraße F/G‑2 Axel-Springer-Straße F‑4 Barnimstraße H‑2/3 Baruther Straße F‑5 Bayerischer Platz D‑5 Bebelplatz F‑3 Behrenstraße F‑3 Belforter Straße G/H‑2 Bergmannstraße F/G‑5 Bernauer Straße F/G‑1/2 Bethaniendamm H‑4 Beusselstraße C‑2 Bismarckstraße B/C‑3/4 Bleibtreustraße C‑4 Blücherstraße F/G‑5 Bodestraße F‑3 Bötzowstraße H/I‑2 Brandenburger Tor F‑3 Breitscheidplatz C‑4 Brückenstraße H‑3/4 Brunnenstraße F/G‑1/2 Bülowstraße E‑4/5 Bundesallee C‑4/6 Charlottenstraße F‑3/4 Chausseestraße F‑2 Choriner Straße G‑2 Christinenstraße G‑2 Danziger Straße G‑1/I‑2

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Dorotheenstraße F‑3 Dresdener Straße G‑4 Dunckerstraße H‑1 Ebertstraße F‑3 Engeldamm H‑4 Erkelenzdamm F‑4 Ernst-Reuter-Platz C‑3 Fasanenstraße C‑4/5 Fehrbelliner Straße G‑2 Fischerinsel G‑3 Französische Straße F‑3 Friedensstraße H‑2/3 Friedrichstraße F‑3/4 Gartenstraße F‑1/2 Gendarmenmarkt F‑3 Georgenkirchstraße H‑2/3 Georgenstraße F‑3 Gertraudenstraße G‑3 Geschw.-Scholl-Straße F‑3 Gipsstraße G‑2 Gitschiner Straße F‑4 Glinkastraße F‑3 Gneisenaustraße F/G‑5 Görlitzer Straße H/I‑4/5 Görlitzer Ufer I‑5 Gormannstraße G‑2 Greifswalder Straße H/I‑1/2 Grolmannstraße C‑4 Großbeerenstraße F‑5 Große Hamburger Straße G‑2/3 Gruner Straße G‑3 Hallesches Ufer F‑4 Hardenbergplatz C‑4 Heidestraße E‑2 Heinrich-Heine-Straße F‑4 Heinrichplatz H‑4 Hohenstaufenstraße D‑5 Immanuelkirchstraße H‑2 Invalidenstraße E‑3/G‑2 Johannisstraße F‑3 John-Foster-Dulles-Allee E‑3 Kaiserdamm A/B‑4 Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee B/C‑2 Kantstraße B/C‑4 Karl-Liebknecht-Straße G‑3 Karl-Marx-Allee G/H/I‑3 Kastanienallee G‑2

Kl. Hamburger Straße F‑2 Kleiststraße D/E‑4 Knaackstraße H‑2 Knesebeckstraße C‑4 Kochstraße F‑4 Kollwitzplatz H‑2 Kollwitzstraße G/H‑2 Konstanzer Straße B‑4/5 Köpenicker Straße H/I‑4 Kottbusser Damm H‑5 Kottbusser Straße H‑5 Krausnickstraße G‑3 Kreuzbergstraße F‑5 Kurfürstendamm A‑5/C‑4 Kurfürstenstraße D/E‑4 Landsberger Allee H/I‑2 Lausitzer Straße H‑4/5 Legiendamm H‑4 Leipziger Platz F‑4 Leipziger Straße F/G‑4 Leuschnerdamm H‑4 Lindenstraße F/G‑4 Linienstraße F/G‑2 Lobeckstraße F‑4 Luisenstraße F‑2/3 Lützowufer D/E‑4 Manteuffelstraße H‑4/5 Marburger Straße D‑4 Mariannenplatz H‑4 Marienstraße F‑3 Markgrafenstraße F‑3/4 Martin-Luther-Straße D‑4/6 Matthäikirchstraße E‑4 Mauerstraße F‑3/4 Maybachufer H‑5 Mehringdamm F‑5 Mehringplatz F‑4 Meinekestraße C‑4 Melchiorstraße H‑4 Metzer Straße G/H‑2 Mittelstraße F‑3 Möckernstraße F‑4/5 Mohrenstraße F‑3 Molkenmarkt G‑3 Mollstraße H‑2/3 Mommsenstraße B/C‑4 Monbijoustraße F‑3

Motzstraße C/D‑4/5 Mühlendamm G‑3 Mühlenstraße H/I‑4 Mulackstraße G‑2 Museumsinsel F‑3 Muskauer Straße H‑4 Niederkirchnerstraße F‑4 Niederwallstraße F‑3 Nollendorfstraße D/E‑5 Oberbaumstraße I‑4 Olivaer Platz B‑4 Oranienburger Straße F/G‑2/3 Oranienplatz F‑4 Oranienstraße F/G‑4 Otto-Braun-Straße G/H‑3 Otto-Suhr-Allee B/C‑3 Pappelallee G/H‑1 Pariser Platz F‑3 Paul-Lincke-Ufer H‑5 Perleberger Straße D/E‑2 Platz der Vereinten Nationen H‑3 Platz vor dem Neuen Tor F‑2 Potsdamer Platz E‑4 Potsdamer Straße E‑4/5 Prenzlauer Allee H‑1/2 Prinzenstraße F‑4 Pücklerstraße H‑4 Puschkinallee I‑5 Quedlinburger Straße B‑3 Rathausstraße G‑3 Reichenberger Straße G‑4/I‑5 Reichpietschufer E‑4 Reichstagufer F‑3 Reinhardtstraße F‑3 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz G‑2 Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße G‑2/3 Rosenthaler Straße G‑2/3 Rykestraße H‑2 Saarbrücker Straße G‑2 Savignyplatz C‑4 Schiffbauerdamm F‑3 Schloßplatz F‑3 Schloßstraße B‑3 Schlüterstraße C‑4 Schöneberger Straße F‑4 Schöneberger Ufer E‑4 Schönhauser Allee G‑1/2

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r.


Index +39 piùtrentanove 52 Admiralspalast10 Aigner25 Alba Berlin 9 Alexa Centre 34 Alliiertenmuseum42 Alpenstueck23 Alte Nationalgalerie 30 Alternative Berlin Tours 58 Altes Museum 30 Altes Zollhaus 50 Ankerklause52 Anna Blume 47 April37 Astro-bar44 Aufsturz27 August Fengler 47 Austria51 Barberini Museum 21 Barcomi's Deli 27 Belle Alliance Coffee 54 Berghain44 Bergmann Curry 52 Berlin City Tour 57 Berliner Dom 31 Berliner Wassertaxi 59 Berlin Locals 58 Black Box Cold War 32 Blue Man Group 11 Borchardt25 Brecht Keller 25 Bröhan Museum 42 BR Volleys 9 Café am Engelbecken 54 Café am Neuen See 40 Café im Literaturhaus 40 Cafe Kalwil 40 Café Rix 54 Café Sarotti-Höfe 54 Caligari52 Cicciolina53 City Circle Buses 57 C/O Berlin 42 Cocolo27 Computerspielemuseum44 Crack Bellmer 44 Curry 36 52 Das Edelweiss 53 Der Mauerwinzer 27 Deutscher Dom 31 Deutsches Currywurst Museum32 Deutsches Historisches Museum32 Deutsches Technikmuseum55 Diekmann39 Die Schule 46 Dolden Mädel Braugasthaus54 Dressler39 Duke39 Dussmann34

66 Berlin In Your Pocket

Einhorn40 Eisbären Berlin 9 El Dorado 40 English Theatre Berlin 12 Eschschloraque Rümschrümp 28 Facil25 FC Union Berlin 9 Fernsehturm29 Feuerle Collection 55 First Floor 38 Fischers Fritz 26 Fleischlust46 Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 48 Französischer Dom 31 Freischwimmer56 Friedrichstadt-Palast11 Füchse Berlin 9 Führerbunker32 Galander56 Geburtstagsklub47 Gedächtniskirche42 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer 33 Gemäldegalerie33 Glory Duck 43 Glück To Go 52 Golgatha54 Gorgonzola Club 53 Green Door 41 Grenander Morning Glory 41 Grosz39 Grüner Salon 28 Gudrun Sjödén 34 Gugelhof46 Hamburger Bahnhof 33 Hard Rock Cafe 38 Haus am Checkpoint Charlie55 Hefner41 Henne50 Hertha BSC 8 Honigmond & Garden Hotels 34 Hoppetosse52 Hotel Sarotti-Höfe 56 House of the Wannsee Conference21 House of Weekend 28 InBerlin Tours 58 Isherwood's Neighbourhood Tour58 Jolly24 Jüdisches Museum Berlin 55 Junction Bar 56 Kaffee Burger 28 Kamala24 Kartoffelpfanne50 Kaufbar44 Kilkenny Irish Pub 29 Kim Qui 51 Kinnaree Thai 51

Knese37 Komische Oper 10 Konnopke's Imbiß 46 Konzerthaus Berlin 10 Kookaburra Comedy Club 12 Kulturbrauerei48 KunstHalle34 Le Petit Royal 39 Lino City Tours 58 Little Big City 29 Locanda40 Lutter & Wegner 26 Macondo44 Martin-Gropius-Bau55 Matrix44 Mauerpark48 Maximilians23 Mein Haus am See 28 Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe 32 MeMu Menschen Museum 33 Metzer Eck 46 Milchbar56 MS Schiffskontor 59 Museum für Asiatische Kunst 42 Museum für Film und Fernsehen34 Museum für Naturkunde 34 Mutter Hoppe 23 Myer’s Hotel Berlin 45 Neues Museum 30 Neue Synagoge 30 Nikolaiviertel30 Nola's am Weinberg 26 Olympic Stadium 42 Original Berlin Walks 58 Osteria N°1 53 Otito24 Ottenthal38 Pagode50 Panorama Café 24 Panoramapunkt31 Paris-Moskau26 Patio26 Pergamon Museum 30 Pizzeria i Due Forni 47 Potsdamer Platz 30 Quatsch Comedy Club 12 Reederei Winkler 59 Reichstag31 Reingold28 Reinhard's26 Renger-Patzsch37 Restaurant Schlossgarten 37 Restauration 1900 46 Rice Up 53 Riehmers52 Ritter Sport ChocoWorld 34 Roter Salon 28 Rotisserie Weingrün 23

Sachiko Sushi 40 Salon Schmück 54 Sammlung Boros 34 San Diego Steakhouse 44 Santiago47 Sarod's51 Schall und Rauch 47 Schloss Charlottenburg 42 Schneeweiß43 Schnitzelei38 Schöneberger Weltlaterne 37 Schwarzwaldstuben23 Shakespeare & Sons 48 Slow Travel Berlin Tours 58 SO3656 Soda Club 47 Söhnel Werft 21 Spectrum Science Centre 55 Sphere24 Spielbank Berlin 28 Staatsoper im Schillertheater 10 Ständige Vertretung 23 Stasi Prison 44 Suksan38 Sushi Circle 27 Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm 47 tausche Taschen 48 The Digital Eatery 27 The Harp 41 Tiergarten42 Tipi am Kanzleramt 11 Topographie des Terrors 55 Traube26 Union Jack 41 Van Long 24 Van Loon 52 Viktoriapark55 VOX26 Wall Panorama 34 Watergate56 Weihenstephaner23 Weinstein47 Weltrestaurant Markthalle 53 What do you fancy love? 41 Wild at Heart 56 Wintergarten Variété 11 Wohnzimmer47 Würgeengel56 Yorckschlösschen56 Yosoy Tapas-Bar 27 Zillemarkt 38, 41 Zille-Stube23 Zimmermeister Brunzel's Mietshaus48 Zollpackhof26 Zum Nussbaum 24 Zur Letzten Instanz 24 Zwiebelfisch41 Zwölf Apostel 40

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The world of original English versions. All day long Germany’s widest range of undubbed blockbusters and Arthouse films under one roof at Sony Center: Explore nothing but brand-new English originals at CineStar Original and dive into both English and German 3D-feature films and 3D-documentaries at CineStar IMAX on Berlin’s largest screen! Info and tickets on cinestar.de

Berlin In Your Pocket  

Essential, locally produced city guide to the capital of Germany, with hotel, restaurant, bar and club reviews as well as sightseeing and ev...

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