RAMON FREIXA Where to dine out in Spain. Ramón Freixa was born in the city of Barcelona. His passion for the kitchen began at the hand of his family owing “El Racó d’en Freixa” restaurant. He cultivated his vocation for haute cuisine in Belgium and France. Upon his returning to Barcelona due to his new knowledge the family restaurant got the first Michelin star in 1998. At that very time he becomes a chef of the “Ávalon” restaurant at Grand Hotel Central de Barcelona. In 2009, Ramón conducts a menu revolution in his family restaurant and renames it “Freixa Tradició”. The same year the chef leaves for Madrid to open “Ramón Freixa” restaurant at Madrid “Unico” Hotel. In 2009 the restaurant is awarded with its first Michelin star, in 2010 - with the second one.
Platos de Ramón Freixa/ Блюда Рамона Фрейша/ Ramon Freixa’ dishes:
I intended to write this article already a year ago but had no idea how to approach such a subtle matter as haute cuisine. I will not, for sure, tell about ingredients the dishes need, as well as about a cooking process, because, firstly, I am not a specialist, and, secondly, I myself find it boring and uninteresting. It is the result that counts. Trying to read some restaurant review articles I found myself overcome by sleep already on the second paragraph. Therefore, being an advocate of the emotional argumentation, I will examine the culinary art of two chefs-cuisiniers from the point of view of complex effect on body and soul. We will talk about two restaurants: Madrid’s “Ramón Freixa” of Chef Ramón Freixa, and Marbella’s “Calima” restaurant of Chef Dani García, both are two-star Michelin. I will write about the best of the best, and lest the article sound their cloyingly sweet eulogy, there will be made a comparison of them to add piquancy. Each of these two restaurants is a brilliant example of where the gentleman is to take his lady to impress her most. It is not just to drop in to eat, it is a theatrical performance. Every detail counts. First of all, it is the design of the restaurant that, for sure, is my hobbyhorse due to the occupation, and it makes me more fastidious than any other visitor. Although, I am confident that the design of “Ramón Freixa” unconditionally tops the chart of the most beautiful restaurants of all Spain. Even if cooking here were of the second rank, a “to-look-at-the-design” visit would be justified by, at least, aesthetic ecstasy. They did not stint on SICIS mosaic stone floor, found a chic ceiling decor. Style is everywhere…even in the choice of plates. Frankly speaking, my desire to visit this
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Interiores de Lujo JOURNAL,
2013
restaurant for the first time was stirred up by the photo I occasionally saw in a magazine. Other two times - because it is really the best restaurant in Madrid. Its exclusiveness is also in the space which is intimate with only ten tables. The Valentine’s Day dinner was to be reserved three months beforehand. Decor of the “Calima” restaurant is more temperate, more restrained, I would rather say, minimal. Yes, modern but not catchy, there is no feeling of exclusiveness one is bound to have in such places. Yet there is some exclusiveness - the public (the foreign one as well) dining here. In this context, both restaurants are quite special since a foreign language is always heard at a nearby table. Marbella sees nothing extraordinary in it due to the multi-national crowd it attracts but in Madrid one should do their utmost because the restaurant is located in a prestigious residential and business district of Salamanca where chance-comers do not appear. Another visual component creating (or not) the atmosphere for an “haute cuisine” show, are the waiters and their appearance. Thus, at Ramon Freixa’s, in addition to the design as an object of admiration, one may go to see the waiters as well: selected boys in velvet jackets and shoes (their clothes, by the way, is updated from time to time) with a straight face tell you of what ambrosia you are to partake now. I do not know by what criteria Ramon selects them but his restaurant looks like a university for “Hollister” boys. The “effect of Cobra” occurs looking at them: they hypnotize with their voice and glance, and you react with a knowing nod and a stupid smile. Of course, looking in the plate you can recall nothing of what just have