Fiona Andrew

Star Trek Research journal

Costume designer: William "Bill" Ware Theiss

Dress uniform stiff polyester (silk like?) shiny with gold trim

Bones comments that it is uncomfortable

Paisley patterns in flowy fabrics very popular style in the 60s

Red shirts are in the normal jersey, soft and easy to move in

Short trousers as uniform with a ploom around the bottom and heeled boots

Sarek triangle cut to the bottom of his dress shirt

Amanda A-line style dress, which was popular in the 60s and cape high cape collar

Lots of plasticky fabrics everything is sparkly

Crimpling

60s style hairstyles

Bright colours and bold prints

Ponchos for Chain mail for the Andorrans with a leather bib

Pig aliens in shiny silver plastic has a space race vibe to it

All the original uniforms have black collars sewn in rather than the under shirts used in the modern Uhura mini dress with shin high boots

1510 woman in background in mini skirt and crop top

Lots of Velcro used in costumes

Bones’ medical uniform has a boat neck in a similar material to the dress uniform but dull (not shiny) and the sleeves are short for practicality

Fur used on costumes

There are more captain uniforms than in the reimaginings and he also wears green a lot rather than yellow

Nurse Chapel has slightly shorter sleeves than the other woman’s uniforms

Amanda wears a lot of capes and shawls which were popular in the 60s

Even the medical fabric is shiny

StartRekthe origionalseries notes

I chose to look at this episode as it has a lot of different Alien's in it, who all have different costumes depending on their spicies

You can see that historical costume even influenced the original series, as these Andorian Aliens are wearing chain mail and leather bibs, which you would think of as more medieval than sci-fi

Episode10Season2 (journeytoBabel)

fig 2: Block colour and sketch Procreate fig 1

Star tRek the re-make Director jj

Time stamp: 0.00.00 to 0.09.50

Abrams - notes

Initial costumes are blue and green/yellow (verry muted colours to those of the main uniforms) and all white and plastic for the doctors/ medical staff

Women wear skirts more so than trousers

The material is that of a tight cut jersey with long sleeves for all genders

The medical ‘rain mack’ style coats have a short collar end (draw example)

Curves and straight lines imitating those of 1960s fashions with a more modern look

Aliens (Romulans) have high collars up to their ear lobes and wear dark colours (browns and blacks) featuring a spider web like design

The hairstyles chosen also to give a 60s inspired vibe.

Geometric 60s inspired patterns

Time stamp: 0.12.07 young Kirk

Costumes have strong lines

Leather snakeskin style jacket

The police robot imitates a lot of space race design

Costume designer: Michael Kaplan

Triangle design on the bottoms of young kirks trainers give a futuristic design

Time stamp: 01424 Young Spock

Oval neck on the Vulcan school uniforms has a retro futuristic feel to them that I have seen designs from the 60s look like 0.16.15- Spock’s Dad Sarek wears browns (much like the Romulans), again the shirt has a geometric pattern to it and the way the leather/pleather is cut includes these geometric shapes congruent with the 60s, also with a high neck.

Time stamp: 01721 adult Spock

Amanda Grayson wears a head scarf with a pixie cut. Her costume is heavily padded and structured Spock’s jumper appears homely, and hand made

Vulcan minister- shiny drapey yet structured fabric has the same feel as some of the Original Series costumes

·Time stamp 02000 Bar fight scene

The female cadet uniforms have a similar design to some of Mary Quant’s dresses from the 1965 held by the V&A

At exactly 02007 a woman can be seen wearing a green dress in the background who looks like she could have come from the set of a 60s drama. Katie Brittain who I was watching the film with commented that she was “giving Twiggy”

Kirk is is dressed like your stereotypical “bad boy” in a white t-shirt and leather jacket (0.21.17)

The hats warn by the cadets remind me of 1960s boys school caps

Time stamp 0.29.00 at the academy

Cadet uniforms have high boots and mini skirts

0.33.00 shoulder pads of the commanding officers/ academy officials have a feel like the original series and that of the 60s/80s

Time stamp: 03934 on the enterprise

Uniforms are now the traditional red, blue, and yellow with a black shirt underneath Some dresses and boots feel very 60s with the A-line dress

Trousers have a military/ utility feel to them

Women’s uniforms do not have ranks on them (only if they are wearing trousers)

Time stamp: 04430 destruction of Vulcan

Amanda’s dress has a 60s silhouette

The Starfleet emblem has the characters division on More colourful costumes than in the “past2 costumes o 0.50.40 the jump suits they use are in the division colo campy feel as the original series

Rank Stripes

2 solid stripes and a half = captain,

2 solid stripes = commander,

1 solid stripe and a half stripe = lieutenant comma

1 solid stripe = lieutenant, half stripe = lieutenant, junior class, nothing = ensign

Time stamp: 1.11.56 space planet Delta Vega

Kirks coat is very structured which is how I think of structured)

For Leonard Nimoy’s Spock he has the original series

the hood opens up into four and that the knitted jump

Time stamp: 1.20.22 Scotty and Keenser

Keenser 60s style shirt

Ribbed jacket has a futuristic vibe

Metallic style fabrics

Time stamp: 14500 Ending Symmetry

and asymmetry can be used to create sci-fi/ futuristic worlds

fig 3

Screen shot at 0-20-07

This dress looks just like the sack dresses of the 1960s, and the extra looks like she could have just walked off the set of a 1960s film instead of Star Trek.

fig 5: pencil and watercolour fig 4 fig 6

Intro

notes

The new fabric they’ve used for the uniforms have a wetsuit like quality, and are bright yellow, red and blue, the boots no longer have the small heel of they had in the original series.

The uniform still has the black under shirt

These uniforms have a much more military look to them than the other remakes

Costume designer: Sanja Milkovic

When Kirks shirt is ripped it is a lot less dramatic and “camp” as the original series. The rank badges are very prominent on the sleeves of the uniform. McCoy’s uniform matches everyone else’s with long sleeves, unlike the episode of the original series I watched where he has short sleeves more practical for work.

The A-line dresses and boots again have a 60s feel just like the other films

Hays

Only the women wear dresses though in Star Trek Next Generation where men can be seen in the background in dresses

Yorktown

The crowd have been costumed in bright block colours and geometric designs drawing in the 60s influence

There has also been a lot of 21st century influence as to what the future may look like added in Childs suit has strong lines and is straight cut.

The York town uniforms also have a much more military like feel

Back in Space

Uhura now has her rank on her costume that wasn’t there in the last 2 films

Bad guys have a videogame like appearance and design to their costumes

All female officers appear to be wearing dresses (even the security officers who you would expect to be wearing trousers for practicality)

After the crash

The Kelvin pod uniforms also have a military like uniform

You can see women wearing trousers in the capture scene but their tops are way longer than the men’s and have a tunic like look

Scavengers and Jaylah

Large shoulder pads and interesting collars

There seems to be a stronger focus on the choices of fabric in creating a futuristic design than just the costume

There isn’t as much 1960s influence in this film with the costumes than the other two remake films

Overall the production design has more of a 60s feel than the costumes do Rescued Spock

He is wearing a uniform from the USS Franklin which is meant to be over 100 years old but is very similar to the brand-new uniforms from the Kelvin pods

Scotty has also found a leather jacket with the Starfleet logos on the arms- the jacket has a bomber jacket style which has a 60s feel.

Attack on Yorktown

The crowd scene again has a very 60s feel through the use of fabrics and hairstyles.

StartRek:BeyondDirectorJustinLin

Spaceage/race fashion

With the beginning of the space age people were adopting an optimistic and hopeful approach to looking at the future. After the success of the Apollo 11 mission to the moon this excitement continued, and started to influence culture and art (Dolon, 2021) Many designers took inspirations from these developments in science and technology such as Paco Rabanne , André Courrèges, and Pierre Cardin (who’s work influenced my sketch on this page), all releasing space age themed collections. They experimented with bright whites and strong colours, different textiles such as lycra, vinyl and PVC, and hemlines of skirts became much shorter. Cardin was even asked by NASA to design the space suits for them in 1969 (McDonald and Nergaard, 2022).

fig 7: pencil and black ink

Retrofuturism is the idea of looking at the future through the eyes of the past or alternatively the eyes of the past looking towards the future. This is commonly done through a blend of science, fiction, and art (Brahambhatt, 2021). Popular features of retro futuristic design are: a focus on machinery and technology, vintage influence, smooth geometric shapes (including spheres, ovals and polygons), and vibrant colours (Smart, 2022). We can see this in the sketch I have done of a Paco Rabanne dress from 1967 which is made from plastic and metal (Breward, Gilbert, and Lister, 2006).

RetroFuturism

These ideas from retrofuturism can be seen in both the original Star Trek and the remakes. The original using contemporary 60s (to us vintage) costumes and technologies to look towards the future, and the remakes use the 60s to create their own perception of the future.

fig 8: procreate

Mary Quant is often credited with the ‘invention’ of the mini skirt Something both her and Pierre Cardin claimed to have done in the late 1950s (Breward, Gilbert, and Lister, 2006). Quant’s clothes were designed to be worn by anyone, as she said; “I want free-flowing, feminine lines that compliment a woman’s shape, with no attempt at distortion. I want relaxed clothes, suited for the actions of everyday” (Ibid, pg. 40). This contrasted with the fashions of the last decade, of high heel and waisted trends (lister, 2019, pg. 124). This mirrors the attitudes to Uhura’s costume at the time as the mini skirt allowed a wider range of movement than a longer skirt would I also realised that Michael Kaplan’s design for the female cadet uniforms in the first of the remakes looks very similar to this dress by Mary Quant from 1965. Showing the influence the 60s had on the costuming for the remakes.

MaryQuant

11:

fig

Biro pen

9 fig 10

fig

The mini skirt was an important development in women’s liberation. As the 1960s were a time for social change and sexual freedom, as women now had access to birth control. The mini skirt became a symbol of this freedom.

Protestsforthe MiniSkirt

In 1966, Dior chose not to include the popular trend of the mini skirt in their fashion show (Stefani, 2021). This caused a group of women who called themselves “British Society for the Protection of Mini Skirts” to stand outside the fashion show with with banners saying things like “mini skirts forever” (Ramos, 2022). These women were also called Ya-Ya girls due to the popular cat call of the time “yeah yeah” (Stefani, 2021).

fig 13:

Procreate sketch

fig

Star Trek has always pushed the boundaries of the hegemonic societal views. Featuring the first interracial kiss between a white actor William Shatner, Captain Kirk, and a black actor, Nichelle Nichols, lieutenant Uhura on popular tv (Pilgrim,2007). It has also pushed the boundaries on gender identity and has a strong representation in the LGBTQIA+ as shows and characters are still being created. Notably in the series Star Trek: The Next Generation the new uniform of the ‘Skant’ was worn by anyone regardless of gender (Cooley, 2017). It was created as

“a logical development, given the total equality of the sexes presumed to exist in the 24th century” (ReevesStevens, 1997). However, it only really appeared on extras in the background of the first season of The Next generation and was then fazed out. Though this is still quite progressive for a show made in the 1980s.

GenderInstarTrek

fig 14: Oil pastel on procreate fig 15

Gendrerandthe CharacterofUhura

As mentioned on the previously the 60s where the area of the mini skirt and though many people comment that the shortness of the skirt in the Original Star Trek are sexists and purely for the male-gaze. However, the actors wearing the costumes enjoyed wearing them and felt liberated by their costumes. In her auto biography Nichelle Nichols talks about her costume saying:

“In later years, especially as the women’s movement took hold in the seventies, people began to ask me about my costume. Some thought it “demeaning” for a woman in the command crew to be dressed so sexily. It always surprised me because I never saw it that way. After all, the show was created in the age of the miniskirt, and the crew women’s uniforms were very comfortable. Contrary to what many may think today, no one really saw it as demeaning back then. In fact, the miniskirt was a symbol of sexual liberation. More to the point, though, in the twenty-third century, you are respected for your abilities regardless of what you do or do not wear” (Nichols, in H, 2016)

fig 16: procreate

As previously stated, the representation in Star Trek has been pushing the way forward on social issues despite the limitations of the hegemonic ideology of the times each iteration has been made. These ideologies of course did sometimes leak into the stories being told, and then in other series steps are made try and rectify them. However, that does not take away from the impact the franchise has had on the world. Whoopi Goldburg recounts her first-time watching Star Trek: "Well, when I was nine years old Star Trek came on, I looked at it and I went screaming through the house, 'Come here, mum, everybody, come quick, come quick, there's a black lady on television and she ain't no maid!' I knew right then and there I could be anything I wanted to be." (Star Trek, n.d.). This is why representation is so important in media and one of the reasons I think that the choice not to have long sleeves and rank badges on the women’s Starfleet uniforms is so strange (though they have more of a 60s feel than the Beyond costumes), when the men do. Why isn’t a woman’s rank relevant but a man’s is? What message does that send to young girls watching the first two remakes, that you can participate but your achievements in receiving promotions doesn’t matter. Again, this is why I think that the women’s costume changes in Beyond are so important. It is also interesting to note that the costume designer for the first two remakes is male while the costume designer for Beyond is a woman. This could suggest that he didn’t understand the significance that removing the rank bands would have on the female audience and that his focus was on “[keeping] things rooted in that [the 60s], even if when you look at the movie, you don’t say, ‘Hey, this is the early 1960s.'” (Kaplan in Baker-Whitelaw, 2013).

fig 17: alcohol marker

After the first two remake films there was some backlash about the fact that the changed women’s uniform with short sleeves did not show the audience the woman’s rank, whereas all the men had long sleeves and their rank visible. With a new director and costume designer this was changed. Costume designer Sanja Hays said: “I like my women feminine, but if she’s a Captain we better know she’s a Captain. In the original show they had long sleeves and ranks so we wanted to have that.” (Hays in Bond, 2017, pg. 156). This led me to think about the idea that femininity so often must be sacrificed for a female character to be seen as smart or knowledgeable (Sharma, 2015). Uhura, is one of the smartest characters in the show and films, she can speak multiple alien languages along with having communication and negotiation skills, as well as being able to take over other character’s stations when the need arises. However, none of this takes away from her very feminine and ‘girly’ personality, as she goes around flirting and singing in the original series. Having only seen the promo photos for the latest Star Trek show Strange New Worlds I worry that they have made her costume more masculine with trousers instead of the past mini dress as a way to make her conform to the idea that to be seen as smart in a ‘man’s world’ women must make themselves seem more masculine to be taken seriously, though as I have said I have not watched the show yet so this might not be the direction they go in

Fig 18: Biro pen and watercolour

Figure list:

Figure 1 Screen shot of character cut out of an episode of Star Trek The Original Series.

Star Trek: The Original Series (1967) Season 3, episode 10. Journey to Babel. Netflix. [Screenshot] Available from: https://www.netflix.com/gb/title/70136140

Figure 2

Block colour and sketch Procreate

Andrew, F. (2022) Block colour and sketch Procreate. [Digital drawing] In possession of: the author

Figure 3

Block colour and sketch Procreate

Andrew, F. (2022) drawing of the different rank badges. [Digital drawing] In possession of: the author

Figure 4

Screen shot of back ground character from Star Trek 2009

Abrams, J.J. (dir.) (2009). Star Trek [Film]. Paramount Pictures.

Figure 5

pencil and watercolour

Andrew, F. (2022) Pencil and watercolour sketch of background character [photograph] In possession of: the author

Figure 6

Three models in 1960s dresses

Sessions, D. (2015). 1967 smock party dresses (R and L) [photograph]. Available from: https://vintagedancer.com/1960s/1960s-dresses-colors/ [Accessed 14 December 2022].

Figure 7

pencil and black ink

Andrew, F. (2022) Pencil and black ink sketch of Pierre Cardin style outfit. [photograph] In possession of: the author

Figure 8 Procreate

Block colour and sketch Procreate

Andrew, F. (2022) Procreate sketch of Paco Rabanne style dress [Digital drawing] In possession of: the author

Figure 9

Photo of Michael Kaplan’s costume design for Starfleet Cadet uniform

Pascale, A. (2010). Star Trek’s Michael Kaplan Nominated For Costumers Guild Award + Check Out ST09 Costume Sketches [online image]. Available from: https://trekmovie.com/2010/01/26/star-treks-michael-kaplan-nominatedfor-costumers-guild-award/ [Accessed 1 January 2023].

Figure 10

Mary Quant Pinafore dress

Quant, M. (1965) Hessian and silk trim pinafore dress and black turtleneck. [Garment]. In: Breward, C., Gilbert, D. and Lister, J. (2006). Swining Sixties London: V&A Publications.

Figure 11 Biro pen

Andrew, F. (2022) Biro pen drawing of woman wearing Mary Quant Pinafore [photograph] In possession of: the author

Figure 12 Miniskirt protesters outside house of Dior in 1966

Ellis, L (n/d) in: Ramos, V. (2022). The History Behind This Iconic Mini Skirt Protest Madame Blue [online image]. Available from: https://themadameblue.com/blog/the-history-behind-the-iconic-miniskirtprotest/ [Accessed 14 December 2022].

Figure 13

Procreate Sketch

Andrew, F. (2022) Procreate sketch of miniskirt protester. [Digital drawing] In possession of: the author

Figure 14 Oil pastel on procreate

Andrew, F. (2022) Oil pastel sketch on procreate of man in ‘Skant’ uniform [Digital drawing] In possession of: the author

Figure 15

Screenshot of man in ‘skant’ uniform

Star Trek: The Next Generation. (1987) Season 1. Netflix. [Online]. Available from: https://www.netflix.com/gb/title/70158329 [Accessed: 27 December 2022]

Figure 16

Procreate

Andrew, F. (2022) Procreate sketch of lieutenant Uhura [Digital drawing] In possession of: the author

Figure 17

Alcohol marker

Andrew, F. (2022) Drawing of lieutenant Uhura 2009 adaptation [photograph] In possession of: the author

Figure 18 Biro pen and watercolour

Andrew, F. (2022) Drawing of lieutenant Uhura 2016 adaptation [photograph] In possession of: the author

Reference list:

Abrams, J.J. (dir.) (2009). Star Trek [Film]. Paramount Pictures.

Baker-Whitelaw, G. (2013). Star Trek Into Darkness Updates Federation Fashion by Returning to the ’60s. Wired [online]. Available from: https://www.wired.com/2013/05/star-trek-into-darkness-costumesuniforms/ [Accessed 2 January 2023].

Bond, J. (2017). The Art of Star Trek The Kelvin Timeline. London: Titan Books.

Brahambhatt, R. (2021). Retro-futurism and why it matters: a foray into alternative futures seen from the past. ZME Science [online]. Available from: https://www.zmescience.com/other/feature-post/retro-futurism-andwhy-it-matters-a-foray-into-alternative-futures-seen-from-the-past/ [Accessed 29 December 2022].

Breward, C., Gilbert, D. and Lister, J

(2006). Swining Sixties. London: V&A Publications.

Cooley, J. (2017). Celebrating the Skant [online]. Available from: https://intl.startrek.com/article/celebrating-the-skant [Accessed 1 January 2023].

Dolan, L. (2021). A visual history of space-age fashion [online]. Available from: https://www.cnn.com/style/article/space-age-fashion-scn/index.html [Accessed 1 January 2023].

H (2016). Star Trek Miniskirts: Feminist or Nah? [online]. Available from: https://comparativegeeks.wordpress.com/2016/05/07/star-trekminiskirts-feminist-or-nah/ [Accessed 16 December 2022].

Lin, J. (dir.) (2016). Star Trek Beyond [Film]. Paramount Pictures.

Lister, J. (2019). Mary Quant. London: V&A Publishing.

McDonald, P. and Nergaard, T. (2022). Retrofuturism Revived: From ’60s Space-Age to ’90s Hacker Chic to Now — Virtual Fashion [online]. Available from:

https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/retrofuturism-fashion-historytechnology-virtual-space-age-fashion-pierre-cardin-courreges [Accessed 30 December 2022].

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Ramos, V. (2022). The History Behind This Iconic Mini Skirt Protest - Madame Blue [online]. Available from: https://themadameblue.com/blog/thehistory-behind-the-iconic-miniskirt-protest/ [Accessed 14 December 2022].

Reeves-Stevens, J. (1997). The Art of Star Trek. Simon and Schuster.

Sharma, S. (2015). Why Don’t We Believe Women Can Be Smart AND Beautiful? [online]. Available from: https://www.elitedaily.com/women/womensmart-and-beautiful/1226914 [Accessed 2 January 2023].

Smart, J. (2022). Back to the future: why retrofuturism is the look of our times [online]. Available from: https://99designs.co.uk/blog/design-historymovements/retrofuturism/ [Accessed 1 January 2023].

Star Trek

(n.d.). Goldberg [online]. Available from: https://intl.startrek.com/database_article/goldberg-whoopi [Accessed 2 January 2023].

Star Trek: The Original Series

(1967) Season 3, episode 10. Journey to Babel. Netflix. [Online] Available from: https://www.netflix.com/gb/title/70136140

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