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March & April 2012 Year 10. Issue 102 €4.50 ISSN 1790-3114

insider athens

| March & April 2012


Travel issue Greek Hospitality / Prelude to Easter at Skyros / Travel accessories Plus: Titanic centenary celebrations / Investing in Art / Sofka Zinovieff’s new book / Re-creating the city-centre / Interview with Chef Jacques Le Divellec / A guide to Athens’ Michelin restaurants PLUS: ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, MAPS AND MORE

Celebrate Easter at the Athens Ledra Marriott Hotel in warm and welcoming surroundings with an endless variety of traditional delicacies accompanied by live entertainment. Saturday April 14th, 2012 Resurrection Night Dinner Buffet 22:00 - 01:30, a 36.00 per person (a 16.00 for children 4-12)

Sunday April 15th, 2012 Easter Sunday Buffet 12:30 - 16:00, a 49.00 per person (a 20.00 for children 4-12) (Including unlimited house wine & soft drinks)

FREE parking! For reservations please call 210 930 0060

Athens Ledra Marriott Hotel 115, Syngrou Avenue, 117 45 Athens, Greece Tel: 210 930 0000, Fax: 210 935 8603 Email: Website: •

Sudha Nair-Iliades

April always has a special allure as it usually heralds the beginning of the holiday season. The change in weather alters the spirit, but this year, for austerity-weary Greeks facing the prospect of imminent elections, the mood hovers somewhere between despair and uncertainty.

publisher’s note It is also a month when hoteliers and their peers in the tourism industry start gauging the first arrivals as an indication of bookings to come for the peak summer season. While there is some frustration on the part of the hospitality industry that there were no concerted efforts to control the damage in the aftermath of the February events, most CEOs of luxury hotels in the city hope that the worst is behind us. In fact, exasperated by the lack of action on the part of authorities, several private initiatives have sprung up in the capital mobilizing Greeks to take pride in their country and to take stock of the situation. The Onassis Foundation’s decision to recreate Athens’ much-maligned city-centre is not just a positive step but one we hope will put Athens back on the centre-stage for all the right reasons. But Easter is when Greeks join their families around a weighed-down table laden with traditional delicacies. And even if the discussion around dinner-tables and kafeneia are very likely bound to be political, it is a time for appreciating customs and the simple pleasures Greece has to offer. Kalo Pascha kai Kali Anastasi!

Sudha Nair-Iliades

Publisher - Editor Sudha Nair - Iliades Art Director Eliza Mouzenidou Client Relations Eleni Setta, Eleni Bakagianni Photos Aris Roupinas, Eleni Bakagianni Web Design

Contributors in this Issue Eleni Bakagianni, Danylo Hawaleshka, Alexia Kefalas, Marie-Diane Messirel, Elena Panayides, Marq Riley

Distribution Hellenic Distribution Agency

Interns Katie Prentiss, Rosie Belpaso, Dana Horowitz

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contributors Elena Panayides

Elena, a Greek-Cypriot by origin, was raised and educated in the UK before pursuing a career in diplomacy and foreign affairs in the US which took her to Washington DC and the UN in New York. After working as a broadcast journalist, Nike DJ and event organizer and full time New Yorker for six years, Elena decided to pursue a different career path – that of Marketing and PR in the entertainment industry with Fox International Channels in Greece. Regulars at the Hilton Hotel Galaxy Bar will also recognize her as the Resident DJ - Miss El P on Friday nights. Elena lives in the centre of Athens and keeps a close watch on the trends in music, events and entertainment in the capital

Alexia is half-French, half-Greek and lives between Paris and Athens. Alexia has been a correspondent for French newspapers such as Le Figaro and for French television channels such as France 24, TV5 Monde, Canal+ and RTL, and also writes for the Greek daily, Kathimerini. Alexia has been contributing regularly to Bonjour Athènes and Insider for the past seven years.

Danylo Hawaleshka

Dan grew up in Canada and moved to Athens in 2007. After a long stint with newsmagazine Maclean’s he continues to write for the Globe and work for the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation. He was the deputy editor at the Athens News for two years before taking on his current assignment with Al Jazeera International.

Marq was born in The Netherlands, where he graduated as a theatre director from the Utrecht School of Arts. He moved to Greece in 1999, working as a music events organiser. He is now a freelance writer, and as a concert photographer covers a wide selection of festivals and shows. Marq has covered everything from music to spa reviews and diplomacy for Insider and has been a regular writer with the magazine for the past four years.

Aris Roupinas

Eliza Mouzenidou

Eleni studied literature & visual culture in Spain and the UK and has since worked for several cultural organizations in Greece. Fluent in several languages, she loves photography, is a keen runner, likes walking around the city and enjoys a cup of good coffee. Eleni joined Insider in December 2011 and has already made a mark in this issue.

Half Scottish & half Greek Christina studied Management but soon after found her passion was marketing. Former Marketing Manager of Classical Hotels and current Marketing Director of Travel Plan in Greece, Christina enjoys highlighting all around the world the wonderful experience of travelling. Her restless spirit, artistic character and love for Athens drive her to discover new aspects and hidden treasures of a city that is nothing less than breathtaking.

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Marq Riley

Aris is an independent photojournalist and has been covering the very colourful political and social life of Greece for the past two decades. He founded and runs the photo agency Photo Press News and is co-founding member of the photographer’s society, Phoebus - an organization that protects the intellectual rights of photographers. He has also participated as an artist in group and solo exhibitions in Athens, Vienna and other metropolises in Europe.

Eliza Mouzenidou was born and raised in Athens. She studied Technology of Graphic Arts and graduated with the highest GPA amongst her colleagues. For the last four years she has been working as a graphic designer and has attended numerous seminars on the subject. Her true passion is photography and during her free time she enjoys playing tennis.

Eleni Bakagianni

Alexia Kefalas

Christina Tsiliakou


20 22 28

Features Investing in Art Beatrice Spengos shares her thoughts on investing in art

Departments 14

Playing the Goat 34 Danylo Hawaleshka steps back in time with the acophonous, kid-clad dancers of Skyros

On the Town








Fast Lane






An epic of love and loss 18 An interview with Sofka Zinovieff on the launch of her new book, The House on Paradise Street

Flights of Fantasy 38 Eleni Bakagianni compiles a list of travel paraphernalia

The business of hospitality 24 Four General Managers of leading luxury hotels in the city share their hopes for decisive policies in the tourism sector

The World is his Oyster 40 The charismatic Jacques Le Divellec charms with his profound humility and impresses with his mastery in the kitchen

Recreating the city-centre 28 A bold initiative announced by the Onassis Foundation to re-imagine, re-build and re-inhabit the city-centre

And the Michelin goes to... 44 Four restaurants in Athens were singled out for their excellence in gastronomy. Athens Insider congratulates them







10,000 leagues under the sea 30 Elena Panayides speaks to National Geographic Explorer-inResidence, Dr. Bob Ballard, the first oceanographer to discover the wreckage of the Titanic

Unusual dining 46 For a nostalgic meal in a charming neo-classical home, Edodi, run by George and Michael Litrivis is an experience Insider recommends



The enduring allure of the Titanic 32 Tim Maltin shares a few startling findings on the Titanic

Food with soul! 50 Two interesting new eateries that blend affordability with attitude

Area-wise listings 51

Restaurant reviews 48 Restaurant Index




30 34 38 40 72 Cover picture:

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Arts & events



0708 07 &



Technopolis Easter Meet Market


The Easter edition of the Meet Market takes place at Technopolis on Saturday, April 7, and Sunday, April 8. The event features 80 stalls displaying designers clothes and accessories, food, furniture, records, homewares and Easter gifts. The Meet Market is open Saturday from 3 p.m. to midnight and Sunday from 1 to 11 p.m. For details, visit

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Easter Bazaar

Athens House of Photography

Athens Concert Hall

The Filothei-Psychico Society for the Protection of Strays is holding an Easter Bazaar on Saturday, April 7. The bazaar, which takes place at the Blue Bell Cultural Centre, Vassileos Georgiou Square in Psychico, includes mezedes, baked goods, homemade jams, jewelry, books and more. The event runs from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. For more information, call 6977.582.583 or 210.683.4448

Ferdinand Schmutzer 02 The Athens House of Photography has the honour of hosting the work of Ferdinand Schmutzer (1870-1928), the famous Austrian painter, etcher and photographer. Schmutzer’s photographs include landscapes and street scenes, but for the most part they are composed of studio portraits. Schmutzer has photographed Albert Einstein, Sigmund Freud, Pablo Casals, Richard Strauss as well as numerous other politicians and artists of his era.

Netherlands Dance Theater The acclaimed Nederlands Dans Theater (NDT) comes to the Athens Concert Hall for a series of performances from April 5 to 8. The Dutch dance company will present two new works choreographed by its artistic director Paul Lightfoot and choreographer Sol Leon. The shows start at 8 p.m.

On the town For location details see listings on page 63






08 1012 11





Onassis Cultural Centre

Technopolis Athens

Half Note Jazz Club

Greek National Opera

Era Povera Can we live in a city which prevents its people from moving freely? Are illusions danceable? These questions and others are addressed by choreographer Patricia Apergi and the Aerites Dance Company in “Era Povera,” a work inspired by contemporary cityscapes at the Onassis Cultural Center. For more information, go to

Bonnie & Clyde 03 Based on a true story, the play takes place in the turbulent years after the financial crash of ‘29, documenting the last few hours of one of the most notorious couples in the world in a compelling way. A legendary duo known for their stormy relationship and criminal activity, Bonnie and Clyde is a funny, tough, tender and deeply existential play, apt for our times.

Eleni & Souzana Vougioukli Eleni and Souzana return to Half Note Club to present a programme especially for Easter Week entitled “Legends and Lamentations”. Hymns and gospel, purifying tarantella, redemptive laments, songs of nature, in an ideal rite of spring.

Easter Concert 04 In this year’s traditional Easter Concert, the Orchestra and Chorus of the National Opera perform works by Antonio Vivaldi (Stabat Mater), Gabriel Fauré (Requiem) and Aaron Jay Kernis (Musica Celestis) at the Olympia Theatre.

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Arts & events






19 1927 21 until





21 april

Bernier/Eliades Gallery

Athens House of Photography

Cervantes Institute

Ekfrasi Gallery & Fizz Gallery

Ulrich Rückriem 05 Widely known fοr his massive abstract stone sculptures in pure forms, design and material, Rückriem believes that a sculpture should be simple, and that a piece of stone should not mimic any other material. The process of creating a work is more important than the result. His work is engraved in stone. “I grew up with stone, he says, and I love it more and more. The stone is enough for me.”

Lydia Panas: The Mark of Abel Apeiron Photos and Athens House of Photography host an exhibition of the works of well-known American photographer and photography teacher, Lydia Panas. “The Mark of Abel” consists of colored portraits outdoors. Lydia Panas’ work has been published in many magazines and has been exhibited in various festivals around the world, and her work is included in permanent museum collections such as the Museum of Contemporary Photography of Chicago.

Ouka Leele In collaboration with the Spanish Embassy in Athens, the Cervantes Institute presents an exhibition of photographs by Ouka Leele. The show, “Transgressive Utopia,” features black-and-white images by the photographer, who was born Barbara Allende Gil de Biedma in Madrid in 1957.

Tracing Traces 06 A group exhibition by 13 artists which activates dialogue and negotiation to determine the concept of space through different visual arts both morphologically and conceptually. Participating artists: Alexis Avlamis, Pantelis Chandris, Christoforos Doulgeris, Yiannis Grigoriadis, Giorgos Gyparakis, Georgia Kotretsos, Andreas Lolis, Pinelopi Manousaki, Babis Papayiannis, Konstantinos Patsios, Artemis Potamianou, Costas Tsironis, Antonis Volanakis., www.

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On the town For location details see listings on page 63











22 april


22 april

Art Zone 42 Gallery

Benaki Museum of Islamic Art

Benaki Museum – Pireos St

Herakleidon Museum

Umanita Nostra 07, 08, 09 The exhibition Umanita Nostra presents two artists, Ifigeneia Apostolopoulou and Kristian Zara, whose works are shaped around the theme of man and his identity. With their unique personal style they create a reality interwoven with mystique and lyricism, which is evident through their forms.

NOUR: Elena Syraka Jewelry 10 Drawing on Islamic art, Elena Syraka’s exhibition of jewellery is inspired by objects of the East. The geometric shapes of objects, floral motifs of silk fabrics, armours, helmets and swords, are points of inspiration for designing jewellery. Nour means ‘light’ and stands for the unique glow emitted by the precious and semiprecious stones that adorn Syraka’s handcrafted jewellery in 18 k gold.

Made in Britain: Modern Art from the British Council Collection 11 A rare opportunity for art lovers to experience first-hand the creative journey of some of the most prolific contemporary British artists of the past thirty years. The exhibition features around 150 works by a wide range of artists, including Paul Nash, Graham Sutherland, Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth, David Hockney, Gilbert & George, Rachel Whiteread, Sarah Lucas, Damien Hirst, and Mark Wallinger, reflecting the breadth and diversity of British art throughout the period 19802010.

Mathematics and the Arts of Japan Sculptor Ntina Anastasiadou’s exhibition comprises 60 sculptures, ceramic works and constructions inspired by Japan’s rich culture. She has held eight solo exhibitions in Greece and two in Japan, and has taken part in several group exhibitions. During the period of her exhibition, she will participate in educational programs for schools held at the Herakleidon Museum on “Mathematics and the Arts of Japan”.

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Arts & events





26 2625 28 until





28 april

Benaki Museum – Kerameikos

Bernier/Eliades Gallery

Manifactura Gallery

Parnassos Hall

Mounajat: Music night with Lamia Bedioui 12 Tunisian singer Lamia Bedioui and her collaborators Nektarios Stamatelou and Nikos Souliotis will present a special musical evening titled Mounajat (‘supplication’). The performance is dedicated to religious folk songs and hymns from the religious heritage of the Arab world and the mystical tradition of Islam, and the songs and hymns of Arabic-speaking Christians. Between the songs will be read representative poems of the Sufi poets selected from classical Arabic tradition.

Carroll Dunham 13 The first solo exhibition in Greece of paintings by Carroll Dunham – an artist widely acclaimed from the late 1970s for his conceptual and emotional approach to painting which wavers between the figurative and abstract, defying and redefining the very gesture of painting throughout history. Dunham’s work is characterized by colorful painted compositions and biomorphic subjects unfolding in an intricate narrative framework that borders poetically on the psychedelic and overtly sexual.

Paper 14 15 artists participate in this exhibition dedicated to paper creations. They design, fold, cut and color highlighting the beauty and individuality of paper. Drawings, etchings, watercolors and small paintings on paper will be exhibited.

Ricardo Gallén: “Four guitars in Spring” Internationally renowned guitarist Ricardo Gallén will perform works by Giulio Regondi, Federico Moreno-Torroba, Isaac Albéniz and J.S. Bach. In the same concert, the young talented guitarist, George Tossikian will perform works by Domenico Cimarosa, Joaquin Rodrigo, Maximo Diego Pujol, while the Duo ChristAl (Christos Sarkatzis and Alexandros Hirtoglou) will perform works by D. Scarlatti, E. Granados and Κ. Tzortzinakis.

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On the town For location details see listings on page 63



2930 29 &








25 may

Athens Concert Hall

Benaki Museum

Kinitiras Studio

Gagosian Gallery Athens

Vienna Philharmonic – Christian Thielemann – 15 Antonio Pappano Wagner described it as one of the best orchestras in the world. The historic Vienna Philharmonic will be returning to the Athens Concert Hall for two concerts. On 29 April the Sir Antonio Pappano will conduct a programme that includes Symphony No. 22 (“The Philosopher”) by Joseph Haydn, “Teufel Amor” of Jörg Widmann, and Symphony No. 4 by Johannes Brahms. On 30 April, under Christian Thielemann, and joined by the violinist Rainer Küchl, the Orchestra will present a program featuring works by Robert Schumann

Persecution and Population Exchange (Greece - Turkey 1922-1924) Director and exhibition curator Maria Iliou and historian Alexander Kitroeff bring back to the audience images that were forgotten in dusty archives, and a fresh perspective on the manner of narrating history. The documentary and the accompanying photographic exhibition are documented by rare material drawn from exhaustive searches of archives in America and Europe. The audience will have the opportunity to see photographs of the population exchange between the two countries.

Les Enfants Terribles: Anais + Henry. A Love Song The group Les Enfants Terribles presents the performance «Anais Henry. A love song », which refers to the life and relationship between two writers: Anais Nin and Henry Miller. The show is based on the diaries of Anais Nin, the novels of Henry Miller, their correspondence and biographical sources.

Dan Colen: Blowin’ in the Wind 16 Colen’s art combines the intensity of real life with reflection on the subjects of immanence and belief, taking up with the objects encountered along his path in order to revitalize the syntax of painting. “Blowin’ in the Wind” consists of three related groups of work. In the first, pages from a nudie calendar have been manipulated with paint and pasted trash to create interplay between control, chaos, beauty and abjection. The second is a grouping of collages that use mismatched letters cut out of stained, smeared wrappers and packaging. The third is a selection of readymade trash objects.

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On the town For location details see listings on page 63



0326 26 until






Astrolavos Artlife

Ileana Tounta

The Breeder

Sofia Tounta The new work by Sofia Tounta consists of a series of metal sculptures that depict plants, fruits and parasites. The possible forms, adding brightly colored, are provocative and yet attractive to visitors. They look like fossils of a bygone era, but bearing the freshness and intensity of today.

Maro Michalakakos 17 The exhibition title «I Would Prefer Not To» is inspired by the enigmatic character of Herman Melvill’s Bartleby. Facing space as a philosophical entirety and not just as an environment where things just happen, the artist presents two installations; “Red Carpet” and “Happy Days”. For the first one, the pile of the velvet is being removed and for the second the process of abstraction; the sound and the red fluff falling down, become artwork. Both these installations have direct references to authority, power, as well as the forced intimacy between life and death.

Mindy Shapero: Blinded by the Light The exhibition will be introducing sculptures, objects and large paper works giving a manifold outlook on Shapero’s onerous latest creations. All of her works rotate around a complex mythology she herself created in the last decade. For Shapero the material she works with, often recycled and full of traces relating to the narrative or to precedent artworks, is a necessity to convey the intangible. By shifting constantly between her oneiric eye and reality Shapero charges the empty material with extraordinary meaning, giving us the opportunity to widen our own perspective.

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03 june

Byzantine and Christian Museum Yiannis Lassithiotakis: Faces 18 Yiannis Lasithiotakis presents a group of paintings entitled “Faces” at the Byzantine and Christian Museum. His painting focuses on studying the human form, a matter the artist has been exclusively interested in for the last 10 years. The metaphysical and psychological interest of the portraits, the stillness and contemplative and melancholy figures, the frontal and the frequent absence of background are some of the elective affinities with the paintings of Byzantine art. The exhibition features 31 works of recent years, many of which were created especially for this exhibition at the Byzantine Museum.

Indonesian Festival at The Westin Athens, Astir Palace on 19 -29 April 2012 Indonesian chefs Tomi Siswanto and Meindrabayu Sunjaya from Hotel Mulia Senayan in Jakarta prepare unique dishes that will introduce Athenians to the exotic world of Indonesia, using traditional recipes executed with genuine products and fresh ingredients from different regions of Indonesia. Indonesian cuisine is known for the deliberate combination of conflicting flavors and varies greatly from region to region, combining many different influences from India, the Middle East, Europe and China. During the festival, visitors will be able to be transported on a wine tasting trip and get acquainted with Indonesian cuisine in a part of the hotel that will momentarily transform itself in decor and spirit to a part of exotic Indonesia. As part of the Festival, guests will have the opportunity to enjoy dance performances and interactive musical melodies using the traditional musical instrument, anklung Travel to the exotic flavors of Indonesia daily from 19:00 -00:00 pm and weekends from 12.30 - 16.00 and evenings from 19.00 - 00.00. Round trip tickets for two to Bali and a stay at a luxurious five star resort to be won at the end of the gastronomic festival. Special early bird offer for reservations before 19 April, 2012: a complimentary bottle of wine for tables of 4+. Fixed menus at 30 euros per person. For reservations, call: 210 8901767




The Astir Palace Beach Resort 40, Apollonos street, Vouliagmeni 16671, Greece Tel.: 2108902000


Program Highlights April 2012


© Reveille

Copyright Disney ABC

NEW SERIES CAMELOT PREMIERE Sunday April 8th @ 22.30 In the wake of King Uther’s sudden death, chaos threatens to engulf Britain. When the sorcerer Merlin has visions of a dark future, he installs the young and impetuous Arthur, Uther’s unknown son and heir, who has been raised from birth as a commoner. But Arthur’s cold and ambitious half sister Morgan will fight him to the bitter end, summoning unnatural forces to claim the crown in this epic battle for control. These are dark times indeed for the new king, with Guinevere being the only shining light in Arthur’s harsh world. Faced with profound moral decisions, and the challenge of uniting a kingdom broken by war and steeped in deception, Arthur will be tested beyond imagination. Forget everything you think you know…this is the story of Camelot that has never been told before. Starring: Jamie Campbell Bower, Joseph Fiennes, Eva Green

NEW SEASON LIFE AND TIMES OF TIM 3 PREMIERE Friday April 13th @ 21.25 It’s been a long wait for fans, but at last, The Life and Times of Tim is back on FX with brand new episodes this month, as Season 3 premieres. Look for new funny and awkward situations for named Tim (voiced by series creator Steve Dildarian), Amy, Stu and the rest of Tim’s friends and coworkers.

NEW AIRING TERRA NOVA Thursday April 19th @ 21.45 Don’t miss your 2nd opportunity to enjoy, exclusively on FX, from executive producers Steven Spielberg, Peter Chernin, René Echevarria and Brannon Braga comes the epic family adventure 85 million years in the making. TERRA NOVA follows an ordinary family on an incredible journey back in time to prehistoric Earth as a small part of a daring experiment to save the human race. In the year 2149, the world is dying. The planet is overdeveloped and overcrowded, with the majority of plant and animal life extinct. The future of mankind is in jeopardy, and its only hope for survival is in the distant past. When scientists unexpectedly discovered a fracture in time that made it possible to construct a portal into primeval history, the bold notion was born to resettle humanity in the past – a second chance to rebuild civilization and get it right this time. © TERRA NOVA Copyright 2011-2012 Fox and its related entities. All rights reserved.

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Program Highlights April 2012


NEW SEASON SAMANTHA BROWN PRESENTS PREMIERE 27 Apr Fri @ 18.30 (Wed – Fri) Samantha Brown travels to exotic locations around the world and presents the people, culture and experiences from these places. Where to go and what to do during your vacation just got easier with Samantha Brown as your guide. The Greek islands, Ireland, Jamaica, the wine regions of Napa and Sonoma, Puerto Rico and Vancouver are all on Samantha’s vacation map in the Foxlife series, Samantha Brown Presents.

NEW SCHEDULE CRIMINAL MINDS 6  From Monday 2nd April @ 17.40 (every day) Don’t miss the entire 6th season of Criminal Minds, every day on FX watch the elite team of FBI profilers who analyse the country’s most twisted criminal minds, anticipating their next move before they strike again. David Rossi (Joe Mantegna) comes out of retirement to help the the Behavioral Analysis Unit lead by Aaron Hotchner (Thomas Gibson), a family man who’s able to gain people’s trust and unlock their secrets. Also on the team are Emily Prentiss (Paget Brewster), the daughter of an ambassador and a surprise addition that neither Hotchner or Gideon signed off on; Derek Morgan (Shemar Moore), an expert in obsessional crimes; Dr. Spencer Reid (Matthew Gray Gubler), a classical misunderstood genius whose social IQ is as low as his intellectual IQ is high; and Jennifer ‘JJ’ Jareau (A.J. Cook), a confident young agent who acts as the unit liaison for the team. Also helping the team is Penelope Garcia (Kirsten Vangsness), the team’s audio/visual technician. Each member brings their own area of expertise to the table as they pinpoint predators’ motivations and identify their emotional triggers in an attempt to stop them.

RAISING HOPE From Tuesday 17th April @ 22.40 (every day) RAISING HOPE is the critically acclaimed single-camera comedy from Emmy Award winner Greg Garcia that follows the Chance family as they find themselves raising the newest addition to the household: a baby named HOPE (guest stars Baylie and Rylie Cregut). Hope is the product of JIMMY’s (Lucas Neff) one-night stand with a wanted felon, whom his mother, VIRGINIA (Martha Plimpton), helped capture and send to prison. Virginia and her husband, BURT (Garret Dillahunt), who had Jimmy at the tender age of 15, find themselves back in the baby game - but now with their granddaughter, they have a chance to get it right. The Chances live with Jimmy’s great-grandmother, MAW MAW (Cloris Leachman). Once the rock of the family, she now forces everyone to stay on their toes. In her mind, the house is infested with mongooses, she’s cheating on her dead husband and it just might be World War II.

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The art of investing in Art Art advisor Beatrice Spengos shares her insights on the trends in the art world and on what to look for when investing in art. 1. Why would you recommend investing in art when any kind of investment today seems purely speculative? Art investment is something that must be approached very carefully. In a sense, investments in art are also very speculative and art itself has only begun to be regarded as an asset class very recently. Unlike stocks and bonds, each work of art is unique, and one cannot be certain of its value, really, until the work is actually sold. However, increasingly sophisticated tools and market monitors can help a collector keep track of his collection’s theoretical trading value. On the other hand, and again unlike stocks and bonds, a work of art means more than money; it is an object that speaks about its owner and is often rewarding to look at. You can hang it on your wall and interact with it. The value of a work of art balances between the financial and the cultural spheres, and often it does not exclusively adhere to the global financial market movements. It is true that more and more speculators and investors are entering the global art market. This is due to the fact that there is a surge to put money in tangible assets as a store of wealth. 2. How do you select the art you want to invest in? How do you estimate the expected growth potential of a work of art? One selects works of art based on personal preference and taste, but also based on other external factors. One has to examine who the artist is, what is their background, which gallery represents them, where they have shown their work, and if known, which collections (private or public) own their work. The interest and support shown for an artist is a good determining indicator for that artist’s mid-to-long term performance. Overall, I avoid talking about investing in art, and I discourage people who don’t have a genuine interest in the arts to pursue this. Having a good eye and developing a sophisticated aesthetic and an instinct is key to making the right purchases for the long term. But that really means being a smart and sophisticated collector, regardless of the investment side. Approaching art collecting as an investment and expecting there to be an accurate and reliable way to predict growth and performance is misleading. Each artist follows their own path and development. Although often the secondary market sales are directly affected by the movements of the financial markets, the majority of transactions happen behind closed doors, on the primary market, and that is information not available on the public domain. Art indices and market analysis websites provide an immense amount of information, including market trends and confidence reports, to aid collectors in gauging their position. However, all these tools are by no means entirely reliable, neither do they pretend to be offering undisputed, hard facts. Experience, instinct, and subscribing to artists one believes in are the things that allow collectors to form an idea on the value and future of their collections, combined with the available market research tools. 3. You mentioned in your lecture at Athens College that how far an artist can go depends on his provenance. Could you elaborate on it. That is not exactly what I said. When trying to assess a work of art and an artist it is helpful to have as much information on the artist as possible. Knowing where they completed their MA, which gallery represents them, how many solo exhibitions they have had and where, but also who else owns their art is very useful information. Of course, one has to know how to interpret that information; how different galleries compare to one another, how important an article is in one publication as opposed to another, etc. As the art market can be temperamental (it relies heavily on taste, after all) and is not fully transparent, such information helps one position the particular work of art they are considering buying, within a wider context. In a way, the more an artist is validated by his course to-date, the more the risk of buying their art is minimised. 4. Should one invest in something one finds aesthetically repulsive only because it has a high market value? I would never advise someone to buy a work of art they don’t like, or don’t appreciate in some way. However, people buy for different reasons and have different priorities and considerations.

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Beatrice Spengos has enjoyed a career in the arts since 2002.Having gained valuable experience working at Christie’s London for a number of years after gaining her MA from the Courtauld Institute of Art. Previously she completed her BA at Yale University and worked at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. She has worked with private and corporate clients and understands the particular needs of both individual collectors and institutions. As an art advisor she focuses on providing independent and impartial advice, Based in London, Beatrice is fluent in Greek, French and Spanish, as well as English.

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Personally, I would advise collectors to choose art that they can engage with and appreciate, even if that means choosing something challenging, or something that someone else might not find immediately aesthetically appealing. I discourage the notion of looking at art in pure financial terms, because that is neither its purpose nor its function. The market for art is incidental. Having said that, in reality sometimes people do buy art purely for its financial potential and are not interested in its aesthetic qualities. 5. When investing in real estate, the mantra is location, location, location. What would be the formula for investing in art? Comparing real estate to art is very tricky indeed. Artists and works of art abound and are not finite, like for instance, living space in Manhattan. If there was anything at all I could consider the number one rule for collecting and especially for new and young collectors, it would be: do your homework, know what you buy, and engage with it. This means, by extension, not buying with one’s ears, but with one’s eyes. Even if you hear of a hot new artist with a bright future ahead of them go see the work and form your own opinion. Or let yourself be convinced, without getting carried away. 6. What role does an art advisor play? Well, to continue on from your previous question, considering the vast amount of information out there, an art advisor assumes a role similar to that of a private financial or legal adviser. Some collectors are very hands-on and are only interested in buying art they have themselves ‘discovered’. But even those collectors occasionally need an additional pair of eyes and ears. At the end of the day, you don’t need to become an art professional yourself in order to collect art. Nor do you want to buy art without consulting a professional. In a nutshell, an art advisor is an enabler, an intermediary, a scout. A good art advisor is also a mentor or therapist of sorts: someone who can read and understand you, who knows what makes you tick and can guide you in expanding your horizons. An advisor can be proactive in discovering or sourcing new material for you, oftentimes not necessarily openly available. It is a relationship much more intimate than the one you might have with your private financial advisor because you engage on multiple levels: cerebral, emotional, and of course financial. 7. What are the trends in the art world today that will define the way we perceive art in the next decade? The opening up of the Chinese and Middle-Eastern markets and the proliferation and expansion of Art Fairs have contributed to the art market’s global outlook. Nevertheless, physical presence is important for the development of relationships, and the art world is most definitely relationship-driven. 2011 has seen many established galleries and agencies opening spaces across continents, not only in Asia and the Middle- East but also within the Western world. New media and the internet in particular, will play an increasingly important role in the way we perceive art, but also in the way we buy it. For instance, there are rumoured to be another 20 online art fairs planned to take place within the next 2 years, following on from the pioneering VIP art fair that was held for the second time this year. There are also increasingly important websites that seek to either streamline the buying process or keep collectors up-to-date. Art websites are embracing new technologies and are developing new ways to engage with the public (e.g. apps). Online auctions and digital art sold through the web are also establishing themselves firmly within the global market.

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In terms of what to look for, and where to look for it, the art world is turning its attention beyond the traditional and expected. Africa is attracting a lot of attention, Nigeria, South Africa and Cameroon in particular. There is also increasing interest in Indonesia, Vietnam and Korea. 8. What would be the recommended time frame to invest in art (short-term or long-term)? Usually long-term carries less risk, and might bring higher returns. However, if an opportunity arises in the short term it should not be ignored. The truth is, it is difficult to predict which new artists will go up in price within 10 months and which will go up in 10 years. Nevertheless, one rule of thumb is that reselling art at a quick pace is not good for the artwork itself. It shows the market, in a way, that the work of art is not worth holding onto for long, and therefore casts doubt on its merits. 9. From a personal and investment point of view, who would you pick? Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst, Pavlos or Vlassis Caniaris. This is a particularly difficult question, as each of these artists is established and well respected, and whose work I admire greatly. They also represent different movements and each has a very distinct visual aesthetic, preferred material and style. On the one hand, Koons and Hirst are well established ‘blue-chip’ artists on the international arena. Caniaris and Pavlos, on the other hand, appeal mostly to a more localised, Greek market. You almost can’t compare them on paper. One would have to choose which artist to collect on the basis of their existing collection, its focus and its theme. Unless money is no object, in which case the most secure investments are the most expensive ones on the most blue-chip of artists. But there are many different issues to be addressed here, and once again the term ‘investment’ is not appropriate. To begin with, Koons, Hirst and Pavlos are living and still producing, whereas Caniaris is recently deceased, meaning his output is finite. Additionally, the market values of each of these artists differ quite dramatically. No point recommending Hirst, when one likes Koons, but can afford Caniaris. Essentially, what I am saying is that you cannot approach collecting through investment alone. You have to be a collector first, and then assess your position in financial terms. 10. Five golden rules to be followed when investing in art… 1. Just buy: Don’t be afraid to start buying. You have to start somewhere, and there is nothing like the feeling of actively collecting to get you started. Buy what you like, and like what you buy. And if you feel you have made a mistake, move on – it is part of the process and your collection’s development. 2. Take your time: and think about it. Impulsive buys are sometimes good, but for the most part it is a better idea to take it slow and sleep on it. For instance, to give you a personal example, in last year’s PARIS PHOTO art fair, what I was considering buying at the start of the fair was very different from what I ended up taking home. 3. Spend as much as you can safely afford: You don’t have to have hundreds of thousands of euros to spend on art, but it is always a good idea to set a budget. 4. Be informed and disciplined: There is a lot out there, so go out and see (exhibitions, shows, fairs), meet (artists, galleries, auction specialists), read (magazines, newspapers, websites). There are hundreds of art works out there and you have to be choosy. Sometimes choosing what not to buy is just as important. 5. Get an advisor: Don’t be afraid to seek the advice of a professional.

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T 7 ZR An epic tale of love and loss After two successful books, Eurydice Street : A Place called Home and The Red Princess, Sofka Zinovieff makes a triumphant foray into the realm of fiction with the riveting story of a young mother caught up in the tides of the Greek Civil War in her new book, The House on Paradise Street


fter reading the book in one sitting, Sudha Nair-Iliades speaks to Sofka Zinovieff at her beautiful apartment in Vouliagmeni overlooking the Saronic Bay. Sofka, what prompted you to make the switch from writing non-fiction to fiction and how intimidating was the experience? I’ve always loved reading fiction; my favourite choice really. I always hoped I could write fiction but it seemed quite daunting. Its quite frightening for a writer to be let loose in huge wide open spaces – Its quite like a caged lion being set free. In non-fiction you’re held in line by the facts while in fiction you can run in any direction and that can be paralyzing or tricky. Writing fiction is like dancing naked in front of your friends…. It reveals your preoccupations. Where do you look for inspiration for your characters and story-lines? A lot that comes out is through the sub-conscious. In the end, things bubble up. Ideas come quite mysteriously. Any personal similarities with the lead character, Maud, who like you, is English, an anthropologist by training, and is married to a Greek? It was a way of exploring Englishness in the Greek context. The similarities we have in common are not in the character but in comparable experiences we both shared. Why did you decide on a touchy, taboo subject like the Greek Civil War ? The Civil War has always fascinated me for many reasons. The scars and divisions it has left, the fear and suspicion of powerful outsiders, and the way that it forces politics right into the heart of the individual

and the family. You can’t ignore politics in Greece when it has been behind why people in your family were killed, imprisoned or exiled. Politics is in the blood, but because of all the bloodshed, it is a dangerous subject. Does the book explore the disillusionment of the youth today and their mistrust of recent Greek history through Orestes’ character? Orestes is a classic example of a disillusioned student, though his anarchism is also a kind of idealism, if in some ways, misguided. I hope that Tig, his younger half-sister is the person that gives us hope for the Greek youth of today. She does not pay too much attention to the mistakes of the past and so is freer, and she is looking to a better future. Do you think your book will, in its own way, dispel some of the myths and even introduce foreigners to slices of Greek history that have remained obscure? I hope that my book might contribute to the discussion of Greece’s modern “myths”, and because I do think that twentieth century Greek history remains amazingly opaque outside the country, I’d be delighted to introduce foreigners to the subject. Your next book? My next book takes me back to non-fiction and back to another strand of my family (which is doing a great job so far providing material for my books!). This is the bizarre story of my English maternal grandparents and their ménage a trois with Lord Berners - an eccentric composer, painter and writer. The working title is Lord Berners, Mad Boy, My Grandmother and Me.


“I can’t remember when I was so totally absorbed by a book... Enthralling, moving and wise.” Cressida Connolly

d on

As rea

In 2008 Antigone Perifanis returns to her old family home in Athens after 60 years in exile. She has come to attend the funeral of her only son, Nikitas, who was born in prison, and whom she has not seen since she left him as a baby. Nikitas had been distressed in the days before his death and, curious to find out why, his English widow Maud starts to investigate his complicated past. In so doing, she reignites a bitter family feud, and discovers a heartbreaking story of a young mother

BBC 4 Radio

The House on Paradise Street was launched in March 2012 simultaneously in Greek and English. Published by Shortbooks, ISBN 978-1- 907595-69-1 Praise for the book include,The Guardian, “’A fiercely absorbing and passionate book’”

caught up in the political tides of the Greek Civil War and forced to make a terrible decision that would blight not only her life but that of future generations... The House on Paradise Street is an epic tale of love and loss, which takes readers from the war-torn streets of Nazi-occupied Athens through the military junta years and on into the troubled city of recent times – and shows what happens when ideology threatens to subsume our sense of humanity. isbn 978-1-907


£12.99 Cover design: Cover photographs: © Leanda Xavian © TopFoto

18 insider athens | March & April 2012

The Observer, “Sofka Zinovieff’s debut novel is an engrossing saga of a family riven by ideological conflict and fractured by war…..”“Zinovieff’s historical gaze is scrupulously fair and does not shirk from uncomfortable truths.” The Economist, “…with its breadth of historical detail, this novel offers compelling insight into the pathologies that Greeks still bring to their relations with outsiders.

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Fantasies in ice-cream

A very red affair

Kayak plays on traditional flavours one associates with Easter to create ice-cream and frozen desserts such as kaimaki with tsoureki and tsoureki with Grand Marnier chocolate and of course, a whole range of Easter eggs, chocolate lollipops and chocolate CDs to make the Easter experience an over-indulgent one.

The Martinos Gallery in Kolonaki has an exhibition all in red!! Disparate objects – in the strongest of the primary colours that dominates the most beautiful moments of our life, from celebrations to passion in red from old works of art, furniture and objects from the collection of 20th century antique design (Ettore Sottsass, Achille Castiglione, Marco Zanini, etc.) to sculptures, paintings, ceramics, jewellery, accessories, lamps and other small and large items – with price tags that match all budgets. The exhibition lasts until late June.

An oasis of art and cuisine Always a great spot for a coffee or lunch, Aethrion, the revamped café-restaurant at the Museum of Cycladic Art, offers even more reason to adopt it as a meeting point in the city centre. The restaurant is in a brightly lit ‘conservatory’ with a secret garden, right in the heart of the museum – a great excuse to

visit one of Athens’ finest museums or to combine it with a quick bout of gift-shopping while enjoying creative Mediterranean cuisine. The venue has free WiFi and you do not need to buy a museum ticket for entry. Neofytou Douka 4, Kolonaki. Tel. 210 7228321.

Vintage watering- hole For some funky soul music, in a cosy setting and a distinct vintage vibe, Tasaki Bar in Syntagma is a terrific new spot to have an after-work drink. A long wooden bar dominates the space. The décor is sophisticated, the drinks aren’t ‘spiked’ and the music and the lighting immediately set up your mood. Tasaki Bar Miltiadou 16, Syntagma. Tel. 210 3310666.

20 insider athens | March & April 2012

Nail Power

Sweet nothings at the Poseidonion The Poseidonion Grand Hotel in Spetses has a new surprise in store for lovers of gourmet cuisine: starting this April, award-winning chef Christoforos Peskias will add a contemporary gastronomic flare to the traditional cuisine of Spetses and the Peloponnese served in the restaurants of the hotel. Guests will enjoy a new menu devised by the famous chef (pastichio with foie gras, local lamb and greens in a summer fricassee, or special chicken with a crust of lemon marmalade and soy, served with Middle Eastern rice and a refreshing yoghurt sauce) along with new breakfast selections made with local products, homemade jams and mouthwatering cakes. A new addition for romantics or those looking for something different will be the unique experience of a “Chef’s Table” dinner under the stars in the hotel’s organic garden. Plus an imaginative cookbook featuring local confectionary recipes.

Sephora lets you decide the woman you want to be – every day of the week! In hues that vary from turquoise to mint green and purple, Sephora stock nail varnishes from Nails Inc., Sally Hansen, OPI and a whole lot more. This April, take advantage of a fabulous offer – if you buy two nail polishes and a Sephora buffer, you get a free manicure! Offer valid on all Mondays and Tuesdays until April 30 at Sephora’s 24 stores in Greece.

Fashion forward with Malene Birger The first By Malene Birger Boutique in Greece has just been launched in Kifissia and the boutique reflects the philosophy of the brand: luxury and elegance. Malene Birger’s multifaceted talent is evident in every corner of the boutique, which celebrates style, art, fashion and, above all, women. The boutique offers award-winning designer Malene Birger’s complete collections: clothing, footwear and accessories using fabrics of exceptional quality, unconventional colour combinations, and special hand-crafted details, creating a feminine image for the modern woman. Kolokotroni 12, Kifissia. Tel. 210 8086217.

insider athens | March & April 2012 21


Paradise Gained Guests at Costa Navarino share their impressions of what touched them most about their stay


nyone familiar with the Peloponnese knows that the entire region bathes in a distinctive, golden sunlight, and so it is no surprise Costa Navarino is close to the ancient temple of sun god Apollo Epicurean at Bassae, one of the oldest and most unusual temples in the world. The archaeological site fits with the Costa Navarino ethos about enjoying the day and relaxing at night. Describing the drive to Costa Navarino from Athens, Allison Spaxman gushes; “Every time I cross the Corinth Canal and go from dryness to the lush vegetation of the Peloponnese, I enter a completely different world. And I discover something different every time. We are close to Olympia, Sparta, Koroni, Methoni and of course the coast of Mani, which is absolutely stunning. The first time I saw the Mani coast I had a flash of the Amalfi coast. Or if you go towards ancient Messenia and pass the Byzantine monasteries and churches, I look at the topography of the landscape and it feels like I am in Tuscany. We’re definitely going back this spring” For Marie-Diane Messirel, the standard of produce available in the region, from wines, cheeses, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and a wide array of vegetables and fruits rival those of Spain and Italy. “On my drive to Costa Navarino I discover new wineries every time - one of the many secrets that Greece has to offer.” The story of Costa Navarino itself is a romantic one. Years in the making and still a work in progress, Costa Navarino is an entire area within Messenia that has been turned into a real-life paradise set to host a number of resorts, hotels and properties along the Navarino coast, with a distinct sensitivity and awareness to ecology of the area. It does sound too good to be true, but it’s all very real, and it started in 1982 with the vision of one man. After 21 years at sea, and a further eight developing a successful shipping business, Captain Vassilis Costantakopoulos began quietly purchasing pieces of land along the Navarino coast in his native Messenia. Word has it that he always paid more than the going price. A keen environmentalist, Costantakopoulos’s intentions were clear. He wanted to create a sustainable development where international

22 insider athens | March & April 2012

visitors could discover his beloved Messenia, at the same time providing his fellow Messenians with the opportunity to work and share the beauty of their home with those who came to become part of it. And very little has changed from this original desire, with the Costantakopoulos family continuing the vision of the Captain since his passing. And that vision finally became reality when the Westin Resort and the Romanos Luxury Collection opened their doors on the Navarino Dunes site. Costa Navarino Natura and Natura Hall are all designed to link back to the eco-culture and the eco-systems within the area. The design of our hotels are linked to the eco-systems and linked to energy saving. And the connection to the environment does not only extend to the design and scope of the development. The educational component behind the Westin, which offers a fully interactive learning environment for young guests is based on a completely different philosophy. For Eleni Papadopoulou, who visited with two boisterous kids, “It’s not about throwing toys or games at kids. It’s interactive. Children actually come to one of these daily to weekly events and study things related to nature, history and culture of the area in a fun, intelligent way. They learn about the turtles, which lay eggs on parts of the beach, about olives, produce, oil, nature and come out excited. They create little clubs on Facebook and there is a certain amount of correspondence.” And as the children learn, there is no reason why adults should not partake, either. “When it comes to olive groves, olive oil productions, oranges and production of sweets, and also organic products used in recipes for food and spa treatments, everything is integrated here.” Food is prepared using local ingredients based on ancient and not so ancient recipes, while spa products and therapies designed with the same philosophy. “Recipes with stories behind them are what Costa Navarino is all about; we are bringing back a lot of nice, good, warm memories. That’s the luxury.” Real is good. Real is what makes Greece beautiful. For more information, visit, or

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Greek hospitality


he Grande Bretagne is a world of its own, anybody who has ever entered its majestic foyer, stayed in the hotel’s regal rooms or indulged in a GB Spa treatment will tell you. Located at the heart of Athens on Syntagma square, the Grande Bretagne has been a witness and even host to the city’s evolution since the 1840s. A long-standing definition of luxury, the complete renovation of 2003 restored this masterpiece of hospitality to its former glory.

Tim Ananiadis Grande Bretagne Hotel

The man in charge of continuing this establishment’s renowned reputation is General Manager and Starwood Area Manager Tim Ananiadis who, as you can imagine, had been ushering the hotel and its dedicated staff through one more phase of history taking shape outside its marble doorsteps. True to the hotel’s legacy, highlife within its walls continued unperturbed. “Of course travelers from abroad have concerns when they watch the news,” explains Ananiadis, as we take tea in the ground floor Winter Garden to the sounds of Vivaldi. “What I did for the most part was convince a potential guest or foreign journalist otherwise. These were not everyday occurrences, and when they did we personally made sure guests got here from the airport without inconvenience.” The extra service provided to secure a visitor’s comfortable sojourn received high praise , and certainly contributes the rebuilding of Greece’s image. But Ananiadis insists that it is high time to invoke a strong positive campaign for the city. “Especially for the four winter and spring months, we should make a special effort to attract the culture and lifestyle traveler, because even in 2007 which for Athens was probably the best year in tourism ever, those winter months were still down to 40 percent occupancy.” Grande Bretagne’s general manager suggests large and attractive events during winter would be excellent incentives for Northern European city break seekers, as the weather will still be much better than in their home nations. “It needs organisation and a specialised arm of the municipality that coordinates with a dedicated private sector. What is lacking are events that give Athens foreign headline exposure, Olympic-type events on a much smaller scale.” In order to compete with European cities that have an established events culture, Ananiadis says Athens needs to focus on its exclusivity, utilizing its unique features. “Archaeological sites, the lifestyle, food culture, the proximity of Athens to the sea. They can be here for a week and really live this lifestyle. Our concierge and myself have never heard the complaint from someone that they came here for three days and had nothing to do. Our city’s offerings really improved over the years.” In essence, the culture that defines Athens resembles the basis of the Grande Bretagne’s brand value: A unique environment where personal care is taken in the wellbeing of its guests, a special touch that never diminished in either hotel or city.

24 insider athens | March & April 2012

Four CEOs from the luxury hospitality industry on the urgent need to re-establish Athens as a city-break and conference destination



ll across Greece, ancient sanctuaries adorn the most unique locations. The Astir Palace Resort on the pine-dotted private peninsula of Vouliagmeni actually harbours a number of archaeological sites, the most prominent being a temple devoted to Sun God Apollo right on the beach. “It’s no wonder why the ancients chose this place to build a couple of temples,” says Astir’s General Manager Michael Metaxas. “There is another temple a little bit into the forest and there are monuments adjacent to the helipad.” Metaxas made the decision to transform the forest paths, making them more accessible for nature strolls between the settlements. “I used to come here as a child and continued as a youngster to enjoy the surroundings. When my daughter was born we used to come to the beach, and later on in life I end up managing this property.” Many Athenians have this relationship with the resort, he adds. “Astir becomes part of your genes.” Astir Palace Resort has been an institution since the 1960s, a 5-star retreat and center of international highlife on the Athenian Riviera which today comprises of the Arion Luxury Collection Resort and Spa as well as the Westin Athens. A village in itself with Greek, Italian, Asian and nouvelle cuisine restaurants, during the summer months Astir employs 500 personnel catering to the needs of up to 700 guests.

Michael Metaxas Astir Palace Resort

That isn’t to say Astir has remained unaffected by the crisis. “People have changed their habits,” explains Metaxas, “they used to stay two, three or four weeks. Now they’ve reduced that, they have cut their spending power and will perhaps not go to the restaurants everyday.” To accommodate these changes, Astir has made its pricing more competitive, as well as facilitating banqueting conference business and family services even more. “My philosophy,” says Metaxas, “is that we have to become even more friendly, you need to go that extra step to provide the service equivalent to the image we give out.” This manifests itself in user-friendly details from providing infant and child amenity choices during online booking to translating menus and room directories into Chinese and Russian. What Michael Metaxas would like to see materialize in the future is a concerted effort to develop the Athenian conference product, which most upmarket city hotels depend on in low-season periods. “As a destination, Greece has the best of everything, but Athens is missing a large-capacity conference center. We need this concept at the Tae Kwon Do center in Paleo Faliro to happen, this would give us a better edge over other European countries. You always have to work at this together as a team.” With full weekend opening hours for museums and select shopping areas, Athens would become a highly attractive stay-over and city break destination. And once the confidence has returned, Astir will also be able to implement its vision for an on-site conference facility and the W at the peninsula’s southern tip. “It all complements each other,” Metaxas concludes. Just as Astir and Athens have for so many decades.

insider athens | March & April 2012 25

Detlef Winter Athens Ledra Marriott


or someone with a widely-traveled career that started in the 80s with an apprenticeship at the renowned Steigenberger chain and continued into general management of award-winning hotels and resorts in Asia and the Middle East, Detlef Winter treats his posting here in Athens as a challenging experience both at the personal and professional level. “Athens as a city still has a lot of untapped potential a unique business destination. It is what I like to call at the ‘trans-Occidental’ crossroads between the Middle East, North Africa and Europe. As a city, it has history, the sea, a vibrant nightlife and is a hub for visitors who want to hop onto the islands.” The Athens Ledra Marriott, since its inception, had positioned itself as a business hotel, close enough to the city-centre but distant enough to assure unsure guests. “As a hotel and company our strength is our ability to adapt to change and adjust our strategies to market behaviour. We believe in the dynamics of on-line media and the opportunities this offers. Through these channels we are able to offer innovative proposals aimed toward customer needs.” The Ledra Marriott’s Loyalty programme, the I-DEAL package providing customers a choice of services including internet, breakfast, late check out, Pay TV and more at a reasonable price and it’s award-winning Kona Kai Asian-fusion cuisine and Panorama roof top pool bar with a view of the Acropolis have earned it a loyal clientele. “Our biggest challenge at the moment is cultivating the ground to reinstate the image of the city in being the attractive and vibrant destination it always has been, and ensuring them that Greece as a country has a lot to offer any visitor whether the purpose of their travel is business or pleasure.”Having been here for less than a year, Winter has had little time himself to explore Athens or Greece’s fabled islands. But he promises to make amends this summer. “As a hotel, we promote Greece through Marriott’s sales offices as a safe destination. We have been contributing to the current drive to rebuild the image of Greece abroad through FAM trips for journalists and tour

26 insider athens | March & April 2012

operators to give them a first-hand idea of the Greek experience. We have also been opening up to new markets such as India and China and focusing on pushing Athens as a ‘city break –conference’ destination.” Winter, however, hopes for some decisive policies by various tourism bodies in Greece. “Everyone in the tourism sector should be pooling resources to have a cost-effective, result-oriented campaign.” Winter believes that direct flights from new markets such as India and China could have a positive impact on tourism. In Winter’s experience, it is hotels like Ledra Marriott that have “adaptability and great service that will have the upper hand in a volatile market.” Challenging times or not, for Winter, a career in the hospitality industry was almost destined. His first name Detlef, means ‘son of the people’ and this is a profession where “you need to mingle constantly with your guests and your staff.” He continues with fervour, “Most managers in this sector have started from the floor. I have never forgotten where I started from.” Sharing the experience he has gained with students who come to intern at the hotel and to be thought of as a team player by his colleagues is how he’d like to be remembered within the industry. Being part of a multi-national chain has meant that Winter has been fortunate to have been posted in several interesting destinations. “Part of my work experience has been to live and appreciate local culture, and in my case, the influences seep into my cooking.” Winter’s antidote to crisis-induced stress is creative cuisine to the strains of Strauss in the background. He adds, “Strauss’ music is a bit like the Aegean sea. It can relax you and excite you at the same time - affect your mood by calming you down or stimulating you.” Just as the view from the Ledra Marriott rooftop that stretches from the Acropolis to the azure Aegean is one that can fill your senses.

Cyril Manguso Sofitel Athens Airport


or Cyril Manguso who just moved to Athens from Warsaw just in time to celebrate Sofitel’s tenth anniversary, his hotel is often the first point of contact for a traveler visiting the Greek capital. Only too aware of first impressions being lasting ones, Manguso proudly points out that Sofitel was awarded the Best Front Line Team Award from the Greek National Customer Service Institute in 2011. Manguso believes that despite the huge potential of Greece as a destination for business and tourism, economic recovery of the destination must take place simultaneously with attempts to resolve the debt issue. He continues, “I regret to observe that little discussion has taken place on the health of the tourism sector. This area should be considered high priority and provide a working basis for current and future leaders.” Urgent steps need to be taken to “regain the confidence of tourists stung by sad images seen recently in the centre of Athens. I’m very much for the recent discussion on the repositioning of Greece and rebranding of Athens as a destination, highlighting its numerous advantages: an unmatched cultural heritage, its unique landscape and innate Greek hospitality. It should soon wipe out images of February, which are those of localised, one-off events, but very present in the minds of our visitors.” Continuing on the theme of the need for Greece to capitalise on its strengths, Manguso suggests a strong “Made in Greece” approach. Not only should the trend of consuming natural products be developed, both in restaurants and in export, Greece should also be promoted as a unique destination at the crossroads of three continents. “It must promote trade and use the leadership of its maritime activity to become a business hub. The repositioning of the country’s image could also help other sectors such as pharmaceuticals, chemicals, natural energy and of course, tourism.” To promote Athens as a destination, Sofitel relies on providing attentive service and by combining “French elegance with local culture.” It is through such messages, and through new communication on a dynamic, welcoming and enterprising Greece that Manguso hopes to encourage the market to regain confidence in the destination.

Despite the crisis, the results in tourism in 2011 were extremely encouraging. While a significant increase was largely due to the instability of some Mediterranean countries, like Egypt or Tunisia, the security of Greece as a destination played a role in reassuring visitors. Manguso also hopes that high-profile highlights such as the Posidonia shipping exhibition in June, a major event for the global maritime industry, attracting an estimated 17,500 trade visitors should boost the country’s image and revenues. Manguso observes that while the islands had healthy growth figures it was the hotels in the capital that suffered from negative publicity. “Today we distinguish two clear trends in terms of attendance on destination: the relatively optimistic leisure destinations and one tinged with more pessimism in the capital.” And what made him choose this industry? “Tourism as a career choice was dictated by my thirst for discovery and travel from a very early age. Early on, the human values of the Accor Group and the pride of belonging to a French leader in the world of international hospitality led me to opt for a career in this industry.” Being in Greece at this challenging time in its history is also an opportunity “to lead with humanity. If by good luck and perseverance, commitment and motivation, we can leave the crisis behind us and open up prospects for growth, by actively contributing to a repositioning of the destination, this will be my greatest reward.” And if it were to share his city with a few special guests, who would they be? Cyril Manguso replies unflinchingly, “I think I would be very happy and honoured to host an exceptional duo, the co-founders of Accor, Paul Dubrule and Gerard Pelisson, and offer them a view of Athens from the Lycabettus Hill. To share a moment of reflection on the future of Athens with these two visionary builders, contemplating the city’s skyline and its history, would be a perfect moment.”

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A city-centre for the people O

ne of the fall-outs of myopic Government policies and rampant vandalism of the post-Olympic years has meant that the city-centre has become a husk of its former glorious self. From being the centre of all cultural, commercial and social activity it has now been taken over by drug peddlers and pimps. Small businesses have had to close shop and move out, most residents have already abandoned their homes, luxury boutiques have suffered with fewer Athenians venturing into the centre to shop, and five star hotels that prided themselves in their once-prime locations have seen a dramatic drop in bookings.

Riding on a new-found dynamism in the capital, The Onassis Foundation announced its intention of organising and funding a European Architectural Competition for the creation of a renewed city centre, in the presence of the Prime Minister Lucas Papademos, key ministers from the Government and leaders of all political parties. According to Mr Antonis Papadimitriou, President of the Onassis Foundation, “The Re-thinkAthens project is a multifaceted intervention centered on Panepistimiou Street, extending from Amalias Avenue to Patission Street and ending at an upgraded Omonia Square. Looking for sustainable mobility, the project includes the extension of the tram line and allows for the roadside circulation of private cars and public means of transportation, while the centre becomes exceptionally pedestrian and bicycle friendly.� As in major metropolises elsewhere, the project aims to make the city centre a destination for people instead of a traffic area for automobiles. Functionally, it aims to aesthetically and environmentally upgrade the city centre and to reinforce the commercial, administrative and financial activities of the city. The project hopes that this in turn will encourage Athenians to re-inhabit the city centre. By creating an aesthetically pleasant environment, the project aims to highlight the historical and cultural profile of the capital and consequently, offer a better quality of life to all citizens. Pre-empting the skeptics, Papadimitriou remarked, “We all know that the situation is extremely difficult: unemployment, wage cuts, recession, poverty and gloom. We must respond to the misery of our times with positive actions; actions of substance rather than mere window dressing; with actions that will bring growth and jobs; with actions that will make us change our mindset and improve our lives.

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City The bold initiative announced by the Onassis Foundation to re-imagine, re-build and re-inhabit the city-centre has struck a chord with Athenians. But questions on the practicality and implementation of a brilliant and much-needed project remain.

We have accustomed ourselves to Athens... an ancient city built in the last 40 years; a city that was inhabited since the Stone Age ... but one with no planning, no vision.” Drawing the analogy with a heart surgery, he continued, “The challenge is high. The city needs a ‘transplant’. We need to rebuild our city starting from the heart, from the city centre.” The ‘primary area of intervention’ has been identified as the axis defined by Amalias Avenue, Syntagma Square, Panepistimiou Avenue, Omonia Square and up to the Archaeological Museum, Klafthmonos Square and the byways. Aware of the very ‘public’ and ‘political’ nature of the project, Papadimitriou states the need for a partnership with the State in creating the conditions for a fruitful debate. He adds, “This study cannot be a theoretical paper exercise. It is naturally necessary to involve all institutions who have come to represent us, all commercial and hotel operators, as well as active citizens, architects, planners and civil engineers (who are jointly responsible for a lot of what’s happening in our city), Ministries of Environment and Transport, the Municipality of Athens, the Metro, the OSCE and the Organisation for Zoning Athens...and of course, the inhabitants of the city.” The new design of the public space will be the result of a European Architectural Competition organized and funded by the Onassis Foundation. The first of this two-stage architectural competition will be held exclusively through the website The project will be funded with European funds designed for the support of European cities and their incorporation into networks and cultural galaxies. The architectural competition will last a whole year (including the final design), after signing the contract. Other studies are being undertaken in parallel and will be incorporated into a final design for the project to be tendered. The construction will last 1.5 to 2 years after the auction. The project is expected to be completed by 2015. The Re-Think Athens project hopes to send a message of optimism both inwards to the residents and outwards to Greece-watchers, but is realistic enough to note that only independent initiatives such as this one might work after all, in Greece. The flyer ends with the message, ‘Let us re-think Athens…because there is no better way to predict the future than to design it ourselves!

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10,000 leagues under the sea Elena Panayides speaks to National Geographic Explorer-in-Residence, Dr. Bob Ballard, the oceanographer to discover the wreckage of the Titanic. Interestingly, Dr. Ballard has most recently been working on exploring volcanic activity near the waters of Santorini, for a future National Geographic Channel documentary that will air this year exclusively on Nova. Dr Ballard, you are the titan of the Titanic - amongst the most accomplished deep sea explorers in the world. Can you tell us a little about the Titanic? Well as you know it was top of the list for all the ships in the ocean to find the Titanic and for many, many years people tried and there were four attempts before we went out and then we were the ones that got lucky and found her. And then it really set off a whole chain of events because the Titanic in many ways was the first pyramid of the deep. But we went on to find the Bismarck, and other contemporary shipwrecks. And then we began to look into the ancient world and over the last 10 years we have found more ancient shipwrecks, many of them Greek shipwrecks, than any other organisation on the planet. It is a realisation that the deep sea is a museum. It is the largest museum on the planet. And yet there is no guard on the door. I am deeply concerned about not only the Titanic but all the ancient history that is now at risk. And so one of the things we are doing on the hundredth anniversary, with National Geographic Channel, is doing a programme called ‘Save the Titanic with Bob Ballard’(airing on NGC Greece on Monday April 9th at 8pm.) And our goal is that if you cannot save this iconic ship then there is very little hope we can save ancient ships. What we are trying to do is to get the world to realise that you don’t have to go down and take everything and you do not have to go treasure-hunting. That this is our heritage and it is a common heritage of all of us and if we really want to take steps to preserve human history in the ocean and we want to start with the Titanic. Do you ever regret not taking something from the Titanic therefore it would have been yours at that point? Well, actually I went to the Courts and asked them about that and they said well yes, if you go down to the Titanic and recover a plate and come to us, we will make you the owner but only under one condition that you remove the Titanic from the ocean floor. And I said well, I do not want to remove the ship. And they said well then you cannot be the owner. It was a very ancient Maritime Admiralty law written in the 17th century, that was still operative when I went to the courts. We need to update that law so that you can actually find a ship and preserve it. Some of the ships we are finding in the Black Sea for example that are in high state of preservation, we are actually building underwater museums at the site, that you can then visit. I am all for visiting. But right now with the Titanic series on the channel, they are loving it to death. They are landing on it, they are hitting it, they are leaving lots of trash. And we want them to understand that this is a pretty special place and you don’t leave all your trash down there and you don’t just take what you want.

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Adventure Can I take it back to 1 September 1985 and could you describe for us your sensations when you first saw the rubble, the wreckage from Titanic and the boiler room? As you know the expedition was almost over. We were getting very nervous that we were not going to succeed and we were going to join the ranks of the people that had tried before and failed. It is now the night of 1 September and it is midnight and we changed over the watch. We have watches, we go around the clock, but every four hours we have a changing of the guard. And because I was chief scientist, I have to be at every one of those watch changes, so I don’t get a lot of sleep. We changed over the watch and I said well, I am going to go and see if I can catnap. I went up to my stateroom and I could not fall asleep. Then at 2:00 in the morning there was a knock on the door and the cook put his head in the door and I said what are you doing, I mean the cook was never at that part of the ship. He said well the guys think you should come down. He did not finish his sentence. I blasted past him and I almost killed myself going down six decks in the middle of the night. Going out on the open deck, into the control room we had a picture of the boiler on the wall and heads went back and forth from the picture and we realised that this wreckage was the Titanic. There was a huge explosion because we were so pent up with anxiety and we found it is like scoring the winning goal. And then someone on the wall looked at the clock on the wall and said “She sinks in 20 minutes”. And with that innocent comment we realised how inappropriate it was to be celebrating anything. It was like someone took an emotional switch and just went click, and our mood changed and we realised this was not something to celebrate. And so we stopped this ship, we raised the vehicles, we went out on the fantail, we raised the flag of ‘Harland and Wolff’ and we had a memorial and then we went back to work, but our mood never changed. And we realised that this was a very special place. And it was not just the ship it was the place. It was no longer lost, we now knew where it was and we felt almost surrounded by the lifeboats of all the people that were in the water at that very spot. On this 100th Centenary of the Titanic sinking, what do you think the legacy of the Titanic will be and what is the most fitting memorial for the relatives of those that were lost at sea? I think it was a sea change and caused the realisation that the ocean has a tremendous amount of history. And because of its darkness, its cold temperatures and its great pressures it is in a high state of preservation. It is like putting something in suspended animation. I think that is the realisation and I think the best we can do is to preserve it for future generations to visit just as you preserve the Acropolis. It is not something that you let crumble. I actually think you can go down and clean it and paint the hull. And when I tell children they ask “what colour”. And we think we would like to keep it the colour it is right now. But we now have that technology and so just as you do the wonderful conservation that is happening throughout Greece, on its great history, we would like to do the same to the Titanic. Finally, what will your next project be? We are presently getting our ship ready for exploration, as you know we have been doing a lot of work over the years on Santorini and on the volcano to the north of Colombo. We will continue our explorations and then we are going to begin a trip around the world and end up probably in the Western Pacific near New Zealand and Australia. Will there be any more documentaries for National Geographic that we can look forward to? Absolutely. We have a wonderful National Geographic Channel documentary later this year on our work on Santorini and Colombo, so stay tuned!

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The Enduring Mystery of the Titanic Tim Maltin, who has been obsessed with the Titanic, since he first saw a film on the majestic luxury liner as a seven-year old, shares a few startling findings from his years of research on his favourite subject Tim, can you tell us about your fascination with the Titanic and what led you to write the book ‘One Hundred and One Things You Thought You Knew About The Titanic But Didn’t’? Well, I watched a film, a black and white film, about the Titanic, called ‘A Night To Remember’ when I was only seven years old, and it really made a big impression on me. And so as a young boy, I started reading all of the survivor accounts that I could find. And then as I grew older I realised that the Titanic was one of the best documented disasters in history and that she was the subject of public enquiries in America and in the UK. And I read all of the enquiries as well, and that survivors wrote many letters about their experiences and I really tried to read everything. And then having read everything, I realised that all of the things people think about why the Titanic sank, did not stack up. On that note. Could you tell us a few of the things you’ve uncovered that have never seen the light of day? Things that came up from your research. I think the main thing that came out of it was that the nearby ship which was seen from the decks of the Titanic as she was sinking was absolutely certainly ‘The Californian’ and she was almost exactly ten miles away from the Titanic. But that night she appeared to be only five miles away and indeed, the ship that they could see from ‘The Californian’ appeared to be only five miles away, but the Titanic was in fact ten miles away, and this distance... this difference in distance was caused by abnormal refraction which was bending the light differently. And this was caused by the very freezing waters of the Labrador Current, suddenly arriving in the very warm waters of the Gulf Stream. Wow. Is it also true that the captain waited forty five minutes before the distress signal was heard? That’s correct. That’s another one of the facts in my book, we actually know that the distress signal was sent from the Titanic forty seven minutes after the collision. But the National Geographic Channel doc-

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umentary, ‘Titanic - Case Closed,’ is based on my new book, ‘A Very Deceiving Night’, and this focuses on my original log book research, where, what I’ve done is gone back in time, I’ve found log books that were written one hundred years ago, and that have not been looked at since. And I’ve used those log books to analyse the air and sea temperatures and many of the ships at the time recorded causing miraging and abnormal refraction. And the German ones recorded a mirage. What do you consider to be the greatest myth about the Titanic? I think there are so many. But one of them is that people say the metal was weak, this is totally not correct. In fact ‘Harland and Wolff’ who built the Titanic were paid on a percentage of what they spent on making her. Which means they were actually incentivised to spend more and not less. For example, another thing is people say if she’d had binoculars in the crow’s nest, they would have seen the iceberg earlier, this is totally untrue, because the best way to spot ice at night, is with the naked eye, and binoculars actually restrict the field of vision. And then just to throw you a couple of others, people say if she’d been travelling slower, she could have turned quicker, but that’s not really that true. Because in fact, Titanic’s turning circle at eleven knots is about the same as her turning circle at 22 knots. And people said that her rudder was too small, but it wasn’t because she had the same sized rudder as her identical twin sister, the ‘Olympic’, who performed extremely well in the First World War, even ramming and sinking a submarine. So what I realised was, all of these facts, were not true. So then I was left with, well what did cause the Titanic disaster? And what I realised was, from the research of solving The Californian incident, I realised that if these conditions were causing the Titanic’s rockets to appear low, and if these conditions were causing her morse lamp signals to become scrambled, then could they also cause the haze, the mysterious haze which the look outs described that night. And in fact, on that subject, the reason why the lookouts were not believed is that the judges at the time thought that the lookouts were

Adventure lying, to make an excuse for hitting the iceberg. Because everyone else that night said it was the clearest possible night. But what my research discovered was that sailors describe mirages as haze, or a fog bank on the horizon when they do not know that it’s a mirage that they’re looking at. And so in fact, the haze the lookouts were seeing was caused by the extreme clarity of the air because they could see so far, it was caused because you could see so far around the curvature of the earth, they could probably see maybe forty miles. And in that depth of air, you get scattering of light due to the molecular structure of the air itself. So what’s amazing about the haze the lookouts saw, is it’s a haze caused by clarity. Wow. Fascinating stuff. Could I ask you what would you like to see happen to the wreck of the Titanic now that we’ve reached the Centenary of its sinking? I think that Titanic is a cultural artifact, she is an important graveyard to those who died that night, the one thousand five hundred people, who all have relatives living today. I think it’s important that the wreck is protected as well, but it’s also important that people are able to go down and film it, and that we’re able to continue to learn from the wreck. So I think we need to have a balance, but I certainly do agree with Bob Ballard that the Titanic is a museum and really the door is open and there are no guards and I think that needs to be addressed. As a historian, what do you consider will be the legacy of this most famous vessel? I think what the Titanic teaches us, is that the best that human achievement can attain will never be able to withstand the power of the universe. And can you tell us a little about the experience of making the documentary ‘Titanic - Case Closed’, which will air on the National Geographic Channel in April around the world, and in Greece on the 10th of April at 8pm? I absolutely loved making the show, in fact I have an admission to make, which is I had never been to America until I made the show, which will perhaps surprise people. But it was an awesome trip, we went to Death Valley to learn about miraging in the desert, I actually went kayaking with icebergs, which was an awesome experience for me, because I enjoy kayaking but to be able to be in such a vulnerable craft, next to these monsters of the sea, was a very, very powerful experience. And I also got to go around the world to the archives where these original log books are kept, underground, where no one has seen them before. And I went to Hamburg in Germany to look at some of those, and I also enjoyed going to Asheville in North Carolina, where they have the largest weather archive in the world. And we also tour the UK as well looking at the meteorological office, but most of the work is outside in the open air and it was very invigorating and it was very physical. And in fact I learnt new things about my research through making the documentary. And one last question. Do you think you’re going to write another book, film or documentary on the Titanic? Or are you going to move on to another subject? I have promised my wife that now that I have written three books and a film on the Titanic, that after the 15th April 2012, that that’s it, Case Closed! In April, a century after the shipwreck, National Geographic Channel (exclusively on Nova) will present exclusively a series of documentaries about the legendary Titanic, led by explorers Bob Ballard, James Cameron and Tim Maltin. See your local listings for further information and visit

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Skyros is part of the Sporades archipelago that runs along Greece’s eastern coast. It is accessible by ferry ( or plane (, although the island doesn’t exactly encourage tourism and keeps hotel development in check. That makes it all the more appealing for those visitors looking for an authentic experience, and not Disneyland. 34 insider athens | March & April 2012


Playing the goat Danylo Hawaleshka steps back in time with the cacophonous, kid-clad dancers of Skyros


e’re lost. And we know we’re lost because it’s dark out and we’ve just driven onto the military base on the Aegean island of Skyros. We make a quick U-turn, followed by a phone call to our genial host-tobe - a bon vivant by the name of Dimitris - who offers to meet us nearby and guide us down a dirt road in the proverbial middle-of-nowhere. Soon enough we arrive at his hobbit-like hovel, disembark and shuffle toward a beacon of fluorescent light streaming from a tiny doorway. Inside we go back in time, into a male bastion where the local menfolk congregate to escape their wives, to eat and drink in peace. And, on this night - the eve of the island’s famous Goat Dancers’ Festival marking the start of Lent - to belt out a few songs. The ancient traditions that permeate the Goat Festival - a sort of Greek Mardi Gras - cause it to stand out among the many held in Greece during the three weeks prior to the period of fasting and prayer that ends with Easter. The goat dancer himself is a fearsome sight. His costume, rooted in pagan ritual, consists of a mask made from the pelt of a kid that was either stillborn or too weak to live long. The dancer, known as the yeros, or old man, soaks the mask with ouzo to drown out its stench. He wears a long-haired, hooded coat made of heavy black wool. A pillow is stuffed under his jacket to give him a hunchback’s appearance. Goat bells, perhaps 30 in all and some as big as cantaloupes, are tied

securely around his waist. With the whole outfit weighing as much as 70kg, the yeros must be powerful if he is to parade at night through the narrow streets of the island’s capital. Dimitris Mikes, 22, began wearing the clothes of the yeros when he was just five years old. In broken English, he grapples to find the words to describe what it is like to be a yeros. “You feel better,” he says, having just dressed for the evening’s festivities. Unsatisfied with his answer, he pauses before landing on the right word: “Ecstasy.” With a series of distinctive gaits, the yeros modulates the din of the bells. Carrying a wooden staff, he travels alone or in packs of a halfdozen or more. At times the cacophony borders on the demonic. Kendra Chapin, an American who now makes Skyros her home, says she’s never heard anything like the clanging of the bells. “It’s overwhelming,” Chapin says. “There are no words to describe the feeling. You have to experience it for yourself.” The locals start celebrating early. On the night before the first wave of visitors arrives for the long weekend (the influx more than doubles the island’s 3,000-strong population), our host Dimitris and his buddies gather around his oblong table. There are about eight or nine men seated around it at any one time, passing around plates laden with stewed rooster. A comforting fire crackles gently in one corner, warding off the chill that lingers outside in these dying days of winter.

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The goat dancer is a fearsome sight. His costume consists of a mask made from the pelt of a kid, soaked with ouzo to drown out its stench

A hefty bottle of homemade tsipouro is passed around. Religious icons and family photos share wall space with the remains of a bull’s dried, metre-long penis. This is a man’s world, after all. One of the men launches into a soulful ballad about Smyrna (modern-day Izmir in Turkey). “I love you because you’re beautiful,” he sings mournfully. “I love you because it’s you - and I love the whole world because you live in it.” The man serenades his wife with it every year on her name day. Considering that these men gather like this most nights of the week, one visitor wondered aloud, “So when do you get to see your wife?” Without missing a beat, the singer looked up from his plate and retorted: “You don’t know my wife.” It is said that the tradition of the goat dancer started in ancient times, when a sudden and particularly severe snowstorm killed a shepherd’s entire flock. Distraught, he skinned the goats, dressing himself in some of the pelts, and he tied their bells around his waist. In mourning, he paraded through town. The next year, the townsfolk commemorated the event by recreating his walk, and thus a pagan tradition was born. Or so they say. Today, the yeros is accompanied by the masked korela (often a man dressed as a woman wearing a traditional blouse and skirt). “She” is the wife of the yeros and trails him with the swirl of a waving kerchief. The frangos is the third and last of the festival’s central characters. Usually a man, he is dressed in ludicrous clothes limited only by one’s own imagination. He is known as

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Religious icons and family photos share wall space with the remains of a dried, metre-long bull’s penis

either the fool or foreigner. While the night remains the realm of the yeros, korela and frangos, the days belong to a couple of outrageous parades, one held on the Saturday, the other on Sunday. Participants dress in drag, derisively portray Orthodox priests, or wear just about anything that could easily serve as an elaborate Halloween costume. The parades can be political - this year the priests were pilloried for selling land for a massive wind farm planned for the southern part of the island. Regardless of theme, the parades end up in the capital’s central square, which is crammed to the rafters with onlookers -many quite literally hanging from the rooftops. On Clean Monday, the wildness tames, the yeros disappear, and the townsfolk don their traditional costumes, many dating back more than 100 years. They walk about the centre, and begin dancing in the square at noon. Soon, anyone can join in, and many do. The dancing goes on well into the evening. Amanda Simpson, who breeds the rare Skyrian horse in the hamlet of Molos, marvels at the care and attention that the families put into preserving their traditions. Some of the costumes smell of mothballs, she says, an odour that makes her think of the many generations of Skyrians who have worn these clothes. Watching them all stroll through the capital, says Simpson, “You’ll feel like you’ve walked back in time.”

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Espadrilles Brightly-hued footwear from TR2 Thission Revisited.

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Voyage d’Hermès perfume Light and fresh, the perfect fragrance to perfume your travels.

Bree Alicante 1 purse Alicante brings a touch of softness to each tough financial transaction. Exquisite workmanship, the playful tassel – a tactile treat and easy on the eye, with an outer zip-coin-pocket; inside note pocket and 4 card

London in a Box Iconic cityscapes in wood depicting some of the most famous landmarks in London including the Big Ben and the London Eye by Muji’s ‘City in a box range.’

Let your fantasy take flight Kusmi Tea Saint Petersburg Metal tin containing 125 g of a blend of black teas from China flavoured with citrus fruit, summer fruits and caramel, created to mark the tercentenary of the foundation of the city of St Petersburg, where the story of Kusmi Tea first began back in 1867.

Korres Holiday in Greece This delightful set contains everything you could ever need on your travels to warmer climes. This set is an ideal introduction to Korres products or as a gift.Only available in KORRES stores

L’Occitane Marseille Soaps Gift Set Made with a pure plant base, in the Marseille tradition of soap-making, and blended with mineral pigments so that bars are delicately tinted, the soaps are infused with fragrances such as lavender, linden, milk, honeysuckle, rose and verbena harvested in Provence.

Moleskine City Notebooks Ideal for both visitors and city dwellers alike, this guidebook lets you organize things you want to keep for future reference or for your records such as the names and addresses of restaurants, shops, friends, hotels, or tourist

Crumpled City Maps The absolute easiest way to fold a travel map: scrunch it up into a ball and stuff it in your pocket. Printed on durable, flash-spun hi-density polyethylene fibrous material, it’s rip-resistant and waterproof.

In keeping with our ‘travel’ theme, Athens Insider compiles a list of must-haves this spring, inspired by the vibrancy of the cities they’re named after Starbucks Caffè Verona Ground Coffee A passion for the culinary romance of Italy inspired this seductive, full-bodied blend of Latin American and Asia/Pacific coffees, with Italian Roast added for depth. Aptly named for Verona, it is available at Starbucks stores.

Destination Boxes New York & Paris Set of 4 Disguised as books, images of two iconic cities cover these destination boxes that can be used on a coffee table to hide remote controls, or on a bedside table to house jewellery, or simply empty as great accent pieces.

Sequoia Capri purse in mustard Purse in glazed calf leather and black calf leather interior.

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The World is his Oyster Sudha Nair-Iliades has a very humbling encounter with chef Jacques Le Divellec, who claims a few Michelin stars across his restaurants in Europe and is widely considered in gourmet circles as the foremost authority on sea food


acques Le Divellec walks in for our interview at the Première restaurant just as the sun casts an almost celestial glow on the Acropolis. Le Divellec is in Athens for a two-day degustation of his legendary seafood cuisine at the Athenaeum InterContinental - a role he has been only too familiar with as he has travelled the world to discover what abounds in the oceans elsewhere or to teach what he himself has learned. At 80, none of the enthusiasm and passion of sharing his intimate knowledge of the creatures of the sea or of meeting new people and learning new secrets, seems to have diminished. Instead, Le Divellec thrusts forward at punishing speed, managing his three restaurants spread across Paris, Brussels and Geneva over the weekends while working on his publishing deals, travelling to organise his ‘seafood festivals’ or bringing together high-profile personalities from the worlds of industry, politics and finance at his informal ‘Circle de Le Divellec’ luncheons, during the week. “My day starts at 7 every morning, a far cry from my earlier days

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when I used to close the restaurant at midnight and would drive to the central market in Rungis (Paris) at 4 in the morning to be able to pick the choicest vegetables, fruit, fish and meat. I’m now at my restaurant at 8.30 and spend three hours responding to my emails and working on my books.” Le Divellec’s fascination for the sea dates from earliest childhood. Although born in Paris, his family moved to La Rochelle on the Atlantic coast when he was three. Holidays were invariably spent at the grandparents’ home on the Ile aux Moines (Isle of Monks), a small island off Brittany. Le Divellec recalls endlessly roaming the beaches and coves, or going fishing with his grandfather who was a professional sailor. During the school-term in La Rochelle, he often looked by the fishwharf on his way to school to see what the fishermen had brought in. The sea and its creatures were soon to hold no secrets for him, and his mother’s and grandmother’s passion for preparing anything edible he could catch did the rest.


insider athens | March & April 2012 41


Le Divellec earned his first Michelin star, at the age of 30, four years after opening his first restaurant, Le Chat Noir in La Rochelle. By the mid-eighties, the pressure to move to the capital got even more intense and he set up Le Divellec in the heart of Paris, while leaving the management of his hotel and restaurant in La Rochelle in the hands of his oldest daughter. His eponymous restaurant on the Esplanade des Invalides, a stone’s throw from the French National Assembly, Ministries and the Elysée Palace, is virtually an extension of these corridors of power, a smart ‘canteen’ for politicians, diplomats and local lobbyists where deals are made in hushed conversations over a platter of steamed Saint Jacques. All the French Presidents from Charles de Gaulle to the incumbent Nicolas Sarkozy have wined and dined at his restaurant on numerous occasions. If his restaurant attracts the rich and powerful, his apartment in Paris is open to friends who range from CEOs to Prime Ministers but also the local florist and ‘friends’ he might have got acquainted with only a few minutes ago. As if on cue, I am warmly extended an invitation for his birthday celebrations in September! Le Divellec has been coming to Greece for over 35 years and for nine years was a chef consultant at Elounda’s Calypso restaurant, where his protégé and current chef at Première restaurant, Jean- Charles Métayer was the in-house chef. Le Divellec shares a rather special relationship with Métayer and the pride and fondness with which he speaks of the younger chef is touching. “His restaurant has all the potential of being the next Michelin restaurant in Athens.” For the degustation, the restaurant is full. Jacques Le Divellec does the rounds of the restaurant before the meal to greet his guests and comes back around to enquire if they have enjoyed the meal. The meal itself is exquisite with full marks going to the octopus carpaccio and lightly glazed scallops. Le Divellec joins a ‘parea of old friends’ from Crete at one of the tables. “The best reward of this profession is that it easy to make friends around a table. This is where problems get resolved, families air their grievances, friendships get forged.” Building around that theme, Le Divellec has invited rabbis, priests and imams in Jerusalem to partake of a simple meal at his table and

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followed up with a book on the subject. He continues on the joys of being a chef, “The other pleasure I derive from my profession is of training young minds. I have trained over 150 chefs in my career and continue to be involved in supporting the training of chefs.” For Le Divellec, he sees it not only as his duty as a Frenchman to promote “the rich culinary legacy” of his country, now recognized by UNESCO as an “intangible heritage alongside practices and crafts from around the world” but as a chef, his mission to share this cultural treasure with the rest of humanity. Promoting French cuisine and his love for seafood, which he has raised practically to a cult, are his key passions. “Defending the cuisine of the sea, promoting its products and teaching people about seafoods. I am highly critical about a lot of what goes on still. Eating fresh fish is essential. That is why only two types of fishing should be considered - coastal fishing where the fish is sold within 48 hours of being caught, or deep-sea fishing where the catch is frozen immediately. I would also like to see a legal difference made between wild and farmed fish so that people know what they’re eating. We also need to widen the choice.” The other concern that Le Divellec has, is that while there are some 300 edible species in French coastal waters, only 20 different types of fish are consumed, a topic he covers extensively in his book De la Piballe à la Baleine (From Tiddlers to Whales), describing the varieties commonly found around fishing ports. His latest book, out in April 2012, is all about salmon, a fish that has been ‘democratized’ over the past decade. Demonstrating his commitment to inspire young students to opt for a career in gastronomy, Le Divellec has been personally involved in the ‘resuscitation’ of the ‘Le lycée des métiers de l’hôtellerie JeanDrouant’ which had been a victim of neglect and apathy. After our meeting, I’m touched by the drive and perseverance of one human being in making a difference to the world around him, beyond the confines of his kitchen – one perfectly cooked meal at a time. If his stamina and cheerful disposition is any proof, I’d strongly advise that you follow Le Divellec’s seafood regime.


This holiday season, avail of our special 10th anniversary offer and gift a slice of Greece to your family and friends. Win fabulous prizes including flight tickets, hotel stays and spa treatments. To subscribe, call: 210.7298634 or fax:210.7298635 or email: or simply visit our website ATHENS

And the Michelin goes to... Athens Insider congratulates two new entrants and two veterans to have earned Michelin stars this year. Galazia Hytra and Funky Gourmet make their foray into the world of high gastronomy while Varoulko and Spondi, old hats in the game, set the bar even higher

Galazia Hytra For Chef Nikos Karathanos, who had already earned a Michelin Star for Hytra last year (which has incidentally moved to its new premises at the Onassis Cultural Centre on Syngrou Avenue), earning it a second time round for Galazia Hytra is a recognition of his talent on the Athenian gastronomic scene. “I have been working at Galazia Hytra for four years now and we have consistently focussed on improving our fare. Galazia Hytra has been receiving awards continuously over the past few years and I am delighted that we have now received a Michelin star‌.. The idea is to maintain our standards and keep surprising the Athenian public.â€?

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Funky Gourmet Athens Insider was one of the first magazines to feature the funky duo of Nikos Roussos and Georgianna Hiliadaki almost two years ago when they had just launched their restaurant at Kerameikos. So it is with some kind of proprietary pride that we share in their special moment of earning their first Michelin star. The two myths that the duo have managed to shatter has been that of a female chef at the top and of two creative geniuses sticking together over a long period of time.

insider athens | March & April 2012 45

Spondi For Spondi that earned its first Michelin star in 2002 and its two Michelin stars since 2008, the vote for Spondi as the only restaurant in Greece with two stars has not come as a surprise. Christian Potelle, General Manager of Spondi maintains, “It is not a coincidence that Spondi has been a member of Les Grands Chefs Relais & Chateaux since 2004 and a member of Les Grands Tables du Monde since 2009. Spondi has consistently maintained its high standards of gastronomy and was recently voted as the 51st best restaurant in the world by Restaurant magazine.� Meanwhile, the search is still on for an equally eminent chef to sport Arnaud Bignon’s aprons, since his move to London earlier this year.

46 insider athens | March & April 2012


Varoulko Chef Lefteris Lazarou, the chef-proprietor of Varoulko has been awarded a Michelin star consistently since 2002 for creative Greek cuisine based mainly on the riches found in the depths of the Aegean sea. Nobel prize winner Greek poet Odysseas Elytis wrote “Greece is a vine, an olive tree and a boat�. Little coincidence then that Lefteris Lazarou creates poetry in his kitchen masterfully combining seafood, vines and olives.

insider athens | March & April 2012 47

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Restaurant review

Unusual dining Edodi, run by Michael and George Litrivis in a charming neoclassical house on Veikou Street - a ten minute walk from the Acropolis Museum - offers a slightly different dining experience. Allow ample time for an unrushed meal as dinner here is a sacred ritual


dodi is housed in a beautiful neoclassical house, up a flight of stairs that lead to a brightly lit quaint ‘living’ room. It really feels like you’ve accidentally walked into someone’s home with a theatre-inspired décor that reflects an unspoilt old-worldliness - as do the chef and the maitre who served us. Fresh cut flowers and a slew of whimsical clowns, puppets, masks and jesters dangle from mirrors, off the table and even from the extremely well-appointed rest-room. We thought the décor was restricted to the carnival season but apparently it stays all year round. Quirky it might be, but it works. A few special touches such as the menu scrolls and singing toothpick- dispensing toys soon begin to grow on you unless you have a fidgety friend who can’t stop fiddling with it all evening long. Michael and Georgos Litrivis who have been running the restaurant for the past twelve years have felt the brunt of the crisis. On the evening we visited Edodi, we essentially had the whole restaurant to ourselves. But the duo have managed to maintain extremely high standards in both the kitchen and service departments. What distinguishes Edodi from other restaurants is that the choice of selections for each course is presented for you to choose from, rather than having a written menu. So, for each course, the maitre presents 7 to 8 different options “live”...meaning he actually brings out plates of food, dressed with raw seasonal ingredients that are the options for the evening....and describes them in great detail. Extremely reassuring to see that you’re not about to consume a frozen piece of meat. The whole process is quite unhurried and almost certainly, an extremely laborious one. The choice is quite eclectic too – from Saint Jacques scallops to quail with a light morille sauce to an interesting mélange of veal entrecote with ginger and calvados and salmon with a fennel sauce. The ritual of parading the choices is repeated for the second course, and dessert. And the results taste as wonderful as the presentation! The offer changes daily but some perennials such as the lobster in Parmesan sauce and spinach al dente as well as the chocolate mousse for dessert never leave the menu. Michael Litrivis’ cuisine is excellent but perhaps a little too elaborate for a casual dinner in town. His wine-list is very extensive too – not surprising as Litrivis has been awarded consistently not only for his gastronomic talents but also for promoting Greek wines. We’d highly recommend Edodi, but best if you went with a small group of friends than just as a twosome. A bit on the pricey side, but well worth every cent for a different culinary experience in Athens. Edodi, Veikou 80, Tel: 210 921 3013

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Restaurant review

Food with soul Two new eateries in Athens offer quality and panache at affordable prices

Meatropoleos 3 For Andreas Agrios and Socrates Dimopoulos, “the demons of the Greek restaurant business are similar to the ones that have brought the Greek economy to its knees – sloppy, mediocre fare and short-cuts that circumvent quality.” The two young partners believe that reasonable, good quality food is not just a possibility – it is something that Athenians insist on and recognize when they get value-for-money food and service. Right in the heart of Syntagma, Meatropoleos 3 has a fresh approach to fast food. Most of the ingredients are sourced from indigenous organic suppliers from the Peloponesse and the cooking is more slow-paced. Ideal for a quick lunch-break or a bite after work, Meatropoleos serves skewers on charcoal, local sausages with hints of citrus zest grilled to perfection, fresh salads and a tray of home-baked sweets ranging from organic orange pies to semolina halvas. Meatropoleos 3, Syntagma. Tel: 210 324 1805 – 6

Cook Lobby Vassiliki Papazissis, owner of Cook Lobby had never run a restaurant before and has no idea why she launched into the business in the middle of Greece’s most challenging crisis. “I gave up my job and my life as I knew it to surround myself with people, flavours and emotions that made me feel good.” The restaurant reflects the same cool identity and passion as the owner and executive chef Mentzelos Drosopoulos’s ‘nostalgic’ Greek cuisine and traditional ‘mageirefta’ dishes with attitude have customers ‘reliving their childhood memories in a paradoxically modern, minimalist environment.’ Cook Lobby, Ag. Ioannou 13, Glyfada. Tel: 210 9680031-32

50 insider athens | March & April 2012

Insider guide refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details

restaurant index by type AMERICAN JACKSON HALL Kolonaki TGI FRIDAY’S Kolonaki


ASIAN Far East Glyfada Golden Phoenix Halandri Wagamama Maroussi

BAR - RESTAURANTS Apsendi Halandri BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq Eclipse Kolonaki KITCHEN BAR Faliro & Halandri FRAME Kolonaki GINGER Mavili Sq ISLAND Vouliagmeni NIXON Kerameikos SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki

FISH RESTAURANTS Ai Nikolas Syngrou CAPTAIN JOHN’S Piraeus ITHAKI Vouliagmeni JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia Kollias Syngrou LA PECHE Glyfada MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni PAPADAKIS Kolonaki PLOUS PODILATOU Piraeus Psaroma Halandri THALATTA Gazi TO VAROULKO Kerameikos ZEFYROS Piraeus

FISH TAVERNAS Almyra Halandri DOURAMBEIS Piraeus Ichthyes Kifissia KOLLIAS Piraeus MAISTRALI Vouliagmeni PSARAKI Vouliagmeni TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Piraeus


GOURMET Bo Botrini’s Halandri KUZINA Thissio Eclipse Kolonaki Essence Kifissia Fuga Mavili Square Funky Gourmet Kerameikos P-Box Kolonaki Polly Magoo Metaxurgeio PremiEre Syngrou

GREEK 2 MAZI Plaka ATHIRI Kerameikos Berdema Kifissia CUCINA POVERA Pangrati DAKOS Kolonaki DIPORTO Psyrri EDODI Acropolis FASOLI Exarhia IDEAL Omonia KARAVITIS Pangrati KAVOURAS Exarhia MANI MANI Acropolis PLATANOS Plaka PROSOPA Gazi TO KOUTI Monastiraki YANTES Exarhia YDRIA Plaka

GRILL 1920 Halandri Meat Square Glyfada & Halandri Meatropoleos 3 Syntagma Telemachos Barbeque Club Kifissia

INDIAN Indian Kitchen Syntagma Indian Masala Thissio ISKANDAR Alimos JAIPUR PALACE Maroussi

INTERNATIONAL Ache Glyfada Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissia

ITALIAN AGLIO OLIO Acropolis ACQUA AZZURA Kifissia AL BACIO Vouliagmeni AL FRESCO Vouliagmeni AL MILANESE Kolonaki ALTRO Kolonaki BOSCHETTO Kolonaki CANTUCCIO Psyrri DA VINCI Ag. Paraskevi DVLCIS IN FVNDO Voula GENOVESE Voula LA CASA DI GIORGINO Gyfada IL SEGRETO Voula Il Tinello Faliro Mauzac Maroussi Matilde Pizza Bar Gazi MEZZA LUNA Vouliagmeni MULTI 22 Syntagma Nanninela Ag. Paraskevi Pausa Maroussi Piazza Mela Kifissia, Novo Romantico di Antonio Halandri SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki TONY BONANO Piraeus VINCENZO Glyfada

JAPANESE COO Kolonaki DOSIRAK Syntagma FAR EAST Syntagma

FREUD ORIENTAL Kolonaki FURIN KAZAN Syntagma GOLDEN PHOENIX Kifissia INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni NOODLE BAR Syntagma SHOGUN Kifissia Square Sushi Kolonaki

KOSHER KOL TUV Monastiraki


MEDITERRANEAN AIOLI RESTAURANT Glyfada Alatsi Hilton Apla Kifissia BEREKET Glyfada BRACHERA Monastiraki BYZANTINE RESTAURANT Hilton CAFE AVYSSINIAS Monastiraki CAFE BOHEME Kolonaki CAFE TABAC Vouliagmeni Common Secret Kifissia DalI Halandri DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka DORIS Monastiraki Essence Kifissia FATSIO Pangrati GB CORNER Syntagma GRILL ROOM Vouliagmeni HYTRA Plaka IDEAL RESTAURANT Omonia KITRINO PODILATO Gazi KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri MAGEMENOS AVLOS Pangrati Mauzac Kifissia MEIDANIS Monastiraki OCHRE & BROWN Psyrri Olio by Portofino Ag. Paraskevi PARLIAMENT Syntagma PRYTANEION Kolonaki PSARAKI Vouliagmeni RATKA Kolonaki TA KIOUPIA Kolonaki TO KOUTI Monastiraki ZEPHYROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus

MEXICAN AMIGOS Glyfada DOS HERMANOS Kifissia EL TACO BUENO Maroussi Santa Fe Halandri


RETRO Aneton Maroussi


SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi DREAM GRILL Voula Gourounakia Kifissias Kifissia KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki KILIZA Glyfada NAIADES Voula SAVVAS Monastiraki SCHARA Vouliagmeni SIGALAS-BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki Souvlaki Bar Thissio THANASSIS Monastiraki Tike Kifissia

SPANISH Barceloneta Kifissia PUERTA DE ESPANA Pangrati SALERO Exarhia

TAVERNAS FILIPOU Kolonaki LOUIZIDIS Vouliagmeni MAMACAS Gazi Meat Me Kifissia O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas Kifissia SKOUFIAS Exarhia VLASSIS Hilton


VEGETARIAN Avocado Syntagma

WINE BARS L’Enoteca Halandri Whispers of wine Maroussi

Westin Kids Club


MULTI ETHNIC Altamira Kolonaki


Register Now!

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Insider guide SHOP Gifts Greece is for Lovers


Porinou 13 , Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci

Beles 1 and Androutsou Tel: 210.924.7655 Raisin bread, almond shortbread, yummy cookies & tasty loaves


Vitonos 5, Tel: 210.346.4204 Fresh seafood creations

Valtetsiou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with organic ingredients. 20 Euros per person


SHOP Syllektiko Paleopolio Asklipiou 41, Tel: 210.364.1718 Antiques of all sorts and restoration services

Vinyl Microstore Didotou 34, Tel: 210.361.4544 New vinyls & cds; also reissues from the 60s & more

DRINK Circus Bar Navarinou 11, Tel: 210.361.5255 Attracts a hip and happening crowd in a cozy space

Ginger Ale

Butcher’s Shop

Mamacas Persefonis 41, Tel: 210.346.4984 Modern taverna located in an old barrel warehouse offering traditional Greek fare

Themistokleous 64, Tel: 210.381.0202 Dine while enjoying live Rebetika music

Edodi Veikou 80 , Tel: 210.921.3013 Fresh ingredients presented at your table, then cooked to perfection

Matilde Pizza Bar Makriyanni 19-21, Tel: 210.923.8124 Homemade ice cream and waffles

Constantinoupoleos 44, Tel: 210 3411878 Authentic Italian cuisine in a cosy setting

Mani Mani

Kitrino Podilato

52 insider athens | March & April 2012

Andronikou 4, Tel: 210.342.4994 A staple of Athenian nightlife

Grande Dame

Arahovas 56 & Themistokleous Tel: 210.383.5811, One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retro-tinged drink


Falirou 10. Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches



Persefonis 19, Tel: 210.341.3440 Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes


Triptolemou 12, Tel: 210.347.4763 Lounge in a modern atmosphere while listening to music from around the world

Dirty Ginger


Emanouil Benaki 45 , Tel: 210.330.0010 A great meal in an uplifting environment


Themistokleous 74, Tel: 210.330.1246 Enjoy a cocktail or a coffee in a retro pop atmosphere

Kallidromiou 87-89, Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed



Bars, Clubs & Lounges


Asimenia Bakery

Meg. Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.

Lontou 4, Tel: 210.382.8206 Exceptional entrees you are unlikely to find elsewhere

Yesterday's Bread

Mani Mani


Valtetsiou 51, Tel: 210.381.3358 Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia

Keramikou 116, Tel: 210.346.5830 Mediterranean cuisine in a modern industrial atmosphere

Triptolemou 46, Tel: 210.342.3809 Excellent cocktails Persefonis 23, Tel: 210.341.6412 Chic bar serving elaborate champagne cocktails

Nipiagogeio Elasidon & Kleanthous 8 Tel: 210.345.8534, For late-night dancing to funky electronic music

Villa Mercedes Andronikou & Tzaferi 11 Tel: 210.342.2380 Mega club ideal for all-night dancing

Live Greek Music Athinon Arena Pireos 166, Tel: 210.347.1111 The latest in live Greek music acts


Aglio Olio &




Central Athens



Karyatidon 13A Tel: 210.924.5064 Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller

Ilias Lalaounis museum


Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

EAT Alatsi Vrassida 13, Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Cretan specialties

Byzantine Restaurant

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist

To advertise, contact Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400 Simply prepared local flavours. Guaranteed value for money

Milos Garden

Vlassis Neandrou 15, Tel: 210.646.3060 & 210.725.6335, Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food

To Varoulko

Jack in the Box


Pireos 80, Tel: 210.522.8400 Seafood prepared by Michelin star-winning chef Lefteris Lazarou

Haritos 13, Tel: 210.725.8735 Beautiful wooden toys and more

Solonos 8, Tel: 210.360.3775 Classic American sportswear

Marie Chantal Boutique

Elina Lebessi

Spefsippou 11, Tel: 210.722.2029 Old-fashioned chic for little princes and princesses

Iraklitou 13, Tel: 210.363.1731 Ethereal frocks, pretty tea-dresses and accessories from around the world


Ermenegildo Zegna

Kanari 8, Tel: 210.361.7714 Good-quality orthopaedic shoes as well as funkier styles

Skoufa 18, Tel: 210.361.3700 Home of fine fabrics and handsome tailor-finished suits



SHOP Antiques Kilim Hali Valaoritou 9 Tel: 210.363.7056 Antique carpets from around the world

Beauty & Cosmetics Apivita

Kanari 24, Tel: 210.362.7334 Fairytale dresses in lace and embroidery from Greece's doyenne designer

Hugo Boss Amerikis 19, Tel: 210.360.0516 Smart separates for a work wardrobe Kanari 8, Tel: 210.362.7768 Menswear from Armani, Boss and Allen Edmonds brogues


Frattina Kanari 21, Tel: 210.360.4481 Casual clothing and gifts for kids Bespoke Athens

Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1801 Indoor and outdoor pools

Olive Tree Spa Chatzigiani Mexi 4 Tel: 210.724.4425

EAT Funky Gourmet

Bespoke Athens Anagnostopoulou 15-17 Tel: 210.364.5518, Made-to-measure suits and shirts from top international tailors


Kanari 18, Tel: 210.361.4155 Greece's design ambassadors create structural separates and heavenly bridal gowns.

Agisilaou 61B, Tel: 210.346.2077 Burgers, a private cinema & an artsy crowd. Open for brunch on Sundays at noon

Kathy Heyndels Patriarchou Ioakeim 21 Tel: 210.729.9966 Greek label selling barely-there gowns and basics with a twist

Kanari 12, Tel: 210.362.7123 Designer items from Prada, Brioni, Donna Karan, Fendi and other top-flight brands



Patriarchou Ioakim 4, Tel: 210.335.6401 Fetish footwear from Prada, Tod's & Casadei


Paramythias 13 and Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 2727 Haute cuisine in art deco interior Plataion 15, Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings

Giorgio Armani


Kanari 5, Tel: 210.339.2597 Designer togs for tots

Hiltonia Health & Wellness Club

Voukourestiou 50 Tel: 210.364.1308 A haven of hip, carrying labels from Balenciaga to Martin Margiela to Marlene Birger

Children Galaxy Bar


Atelier Loukia

Free Shop

Koumbari 8, Tel: 210.361.3603 Suit- and dress-maker to the stars




Solonos 26 Tel: 210.364.0560 Shop natural Greek cosmetics, get a prescription cream made up and have a quick massage

DRINK Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402 Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere

Central Athens

Tsakalof 28, Tel: 210.362.5669 Leather totes and luggage in easy American style

Deux Hommes

Diesel Skoufa 3, Tel: 210.362.2748 A treasure trove of denim, and all the hip accoutrements to go with it

Dior Boutique Voukourestiou 18-20, Tel: 210 361.3014 High-end designer fashion

insider athens | March & April 2012 53

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill! La Perla


Spefsippou 14, Tel: 210.729.9720 Lingerie to flaunt

Patriarchou Ioakim 19 Tel: 210.722.4731 High fashion designer shoes

Lacoste Solonos 5, Tel: 210.361.8030 French take on American sportswear

Lanvin Iraklitou 9 Tel: 210.360.8315 Alber Elbaz's gloriously chic take on the classic French couture house

Linea Piu Sekeri 6, Tel: 210 360.6125 Collections from exclusive fashion houses including Chanel, Galliano, Lagerfeld and Sonia Rykiel

Luisa Skoufa 15, Tel: 210.363.5600 Designer emporium stocked with Chloe, Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, Missoni & more

Marc by Marc Jacobs Xanthou 3, Tel: 210.363.6030 Budget knick-knacks and must-have casuals from America's fashion hero

Nike Tsakalof 34, Tel: 210.363.6188 Trainers, tracksuits and other swoosh-marked sports paraphernalia

Puma Concept Kanari 17, Tel: 210.361.0516 International sportswear for all ages

Rere Papa Skoufa 62, Tel: 210.364.4300 Distinctive creations by two young Greek women and other international imports

Thalassa Collection Patriarchou Ioakim 30-32 Tel: 210.725.8525 Original silk designs for scarves, ties, shawls & blouses

Home Christofle Koumbari 5, Tel: 210.362.0483 Classis silver and crystal ideal for wedding gifts

La Fenetre Irodotou 21, Tel: 210.723.5029 Elegant objects and sophisticated gifts for the house, mostly from France

Parousiasi Patriarchou Ioakim 33, Tel: 210.723.7656, A range of international brands in crystal, china and other eye-catching homeware accessories


Vlassis Holevas


Anagnostopoulou 19 Tel: 210.361.6167, Elegant fashion with a contemporary twist

Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Elena Votsi

Flowers Fleria Patriarchou Ioakim 35 Tel: 210.722.9697

Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175 Browser-friendly cava with helpful service


Solonos 9, Tel: 210.364.6910 The ultimate fashion store

Vas. Sofias & Koumbari Tel: 210.367.1045, Artefacts and jewellery inspired by the museum’s exhibits

Paul & Shark

Liana Vourakis

Anagnostopoulou 6, Tel: 210.339.2334 Casual yachting styles

Pindarou 42, Tel. 2103617705

54 insider athens | March & April 2012

Al Milanese Xenokratous 49, Tel: 210.729.4111 Authentic Italian cuisine for the discerning

Altamira (Multi-ethnic) Tsakalof 36A, Tel: 210 361 4695 Flavours of multiethnic cuisine


Evangelismos Park, Tel: 210.721.0893 Italian food in a lush central setting


Anagnostopoulou 26-8 Tel: 210.362.2564 For unique baptism and wedding gifts, start here

Dinokratous 1, Tel: 210.725.4008 A Mykonos favourite now in Athens


Lylian Syrigou

Tsakalof 6, Tel: 210.894.7040 New-age Cretan specialties


Benaki Museum Gift Shop


Liana Vourakis


Observatory Attitudes

Kriezotou 12, Tel: 210.364.2948/ Loukianou 21, Tel: 210.729.3453 Desserts and cakes

Cafe Boheme




Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Tel: 210.323.0739, Greece's highstreet export stocks affordable watches and everyday bijoux

Anagnostopoulou 12, Tel: 210.361.3350 Handcrafted bijoux and one-off designer pieces.

Solonos 15, Tel: 210.363 6677 Quirky designs with a sense of humour

Irodotou 15, Tel: 210.721.2253 For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more


Folli Follie

Wine Garage



Cava Anthidis

Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards; including Greek labels

Bakeries & Patisseries

Haritos 39, Tel: 210.724.2717 Tiny funky restaurant that specializes in Italian food

Food & Wine



Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation-starting pieces in gold and stone Patriarchou Ioakim 23 Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings

Ypsilantou 13-15, Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers

Central Athens

Haritos 18, Tel: 210.724.0697 Ileana Makri's silver jewellery amid eclectic pieces from New York

Oxette Skoufa 37, Tel: 210.339.0547 Trendy, affordable jewellery

Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails

Eclipse (Bar restaurant) Alopekis 21, Tel: 210 364 1545 Fabulous cocktails and creative Mediterranean cuisine by Yiannis Baxevannis

Filipou Xenokratous 19, Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes


Skoufa 30, Tel: 210.364.2139 Greek silver fashion jewellery

St George Lycabettus Hotel Dinokratous, Tel: 210.721.4368 Exotic cuisine in the heart of Athens

Van Cleef & Arpels

Freud Oriental


Voucourestiou 1, Tel: 210.331.0319 The jeweller of the international jetset

Xenokratous 21, Tel: 210.729.9595 Sushi in a cool setting

Central Athens

To advertise, contact Ouzadiko

Ta Kioupia


Karneadou 25-26, Tel: 210.729.5484 Traditional Greek appetizers & ouzo

Dinokratous & An Polemou 22 Tel: 210.740.0150 Superb set menu of Greek and Continental classics with refined touches

Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.321.7836 One of the most popular hot spots in town

Papadakis Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros' legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens

P-BOX Haritos 24, Periscope hotel Tel: 210 7298556, Simple ingredients, special flavours in a setting designed by Theodore Zoumboulakis

TGI Friday’s Kolokotroni 35, Kefalari sq. Tel: 210.623.3945 American restaurant with real steak and barbecue sauce for casual dining!

W Kanari 24, Tel: 697.270.0712 Private seating areas, speciality cocktails & exclusives events

Cafés Da Capo Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.243.3902 Long-established people-watching hangout


Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot



Iraklitou 21, Tel: 210.339.2090 Sushi fusion

To Tsai Soutsou & Likavitou, Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world

Jackson Hall Milioni 4, Tel: 210.361.6098 Gourmet burgers with all the fixings Ploutarhou 32, Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy

Kiku Dimokritou 12, Tel: 210.364.7033 Fresh, beautifully presented sushi

Prytaneion Milioni 7, Tel: 210.364.3353 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Ratka Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine

Sale e Pepe Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Central

Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.724.5938 The place to see & be seen while sipping on coffee or cocktails

Mai Tai Ploutarhou 18, Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a laid-back atmosphere

Mavili Sq

Kalamaki Kolonaki

DRINK Balthazar Tsoha 27, Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd

Baraonda Tsoha 43, Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats

Briki Dorileou 6, Mavili sq. Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout

Flower Dorileou 2, Mavili sq. Tel: 210.643.2111, Fun, funky and affordable watering hole

Scala Vinoteca L'Abreuvoir Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine

Le Grand Balcon St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.729.0711 Gourmet Greek cuisine

Orizontes Lycavyttou Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065 Gourmet dining with a spectacular view

Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining

Showroom Milioni 12, Tel: 210.364.6460 Missoni-designed interiors, serving unique Mediterranean flavours

Square Sushi Deinokratous 65, Tel: 210.725.5236 High-quality sushi & other Japanese favourites

20% Off! Cut this coupon & avail

of 20% off on all exclusive brands at Sephora’s stores in Greece.

insider athens | March & April 2012 55

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Central Athens

Avissynias 3, Tel: 210.321.7202 Traditional Greek recipes with a European twist overlooking the Acropolis & Observatory

Café Avyssinias

Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7407 Spcializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends


Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2671 Hearty stews & pasta dishes at reasonable prices

Kol Tuv

Normanou 4, Tel: 210.524.4049 The only kosher restaurant in Athens serving traditional shabat meals


Sokratous 3 & Evripidou Tel: 210.324.9073, A menu that is sure to please with speciality oven dishes


Mitropoleos 86, Tel: 210.321.9919 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali

Fuga Vas.Sofias & Kokkali 1, Tel: 210 724 2979 Italian inspired menu by chef Andrea Berton at the Athens Concert Hall

Ginger Dorileou 10-12, Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere



Alexadras 10, Tel: 210.889.4500 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience

SHOP Antiques Darousos

Souvlaki Bar

Food & Wine

Mitropoleos 69, Tel: 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise


Adrianou 7 & Thisiou 15, Tel: 210 5150550

To Kouti


Pandrosou 36, Tel: 210.321.3842 An eclectic cafe & bookshop


Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats

Polly Maggoo

Paleovivliopolio Hiotakis Normanou 7 Tel: 210.324.7835 Historic bookshop houses rare & old books

EAT Bairaktaris Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare

Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri

SHOP Beauty & Cosmetics Korres Ivikou 8 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.722.2774 Natural Greek products made using Mediterranean herbs

EAT Cucina Povera Evforionos 13 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.756.6008, Greek cuisine with a menu that changes daily

Fatsio Efroniou 5, Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip

Karavitis Arktinou & Pausaniou Tel: 210.721.5155 Classic Greek cuisine in a dining room lined with wine casks

Magemenos Avlos


Evripidou 41, Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offers interesting sausages, pasturma & smoked meats


56 insider athens | March & April 2012

Monastiraki Sq. 2, Tel: 210.321.3036 Century-old restaurant serving a variety of fresh dishes

Normanou 7 Tel: 210.331.1638 Small antique shop in the heart of the flea market

Evripidou 31, Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven

Leonidou 80 & Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 1120 Gourmet cuisine in a post-modern and industrial setting. New hot spot for the trendy


Amynta 4, Tel: 210.722.3195 Mediterranean fare, welcoming decor & generous servings

Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora

Puerta de Espana



Orea Ellas

Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021 A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens









Antinoros 42, Tel: 210.725.8666 Spanish cuisine & live music

Department Stores Hondos Center

Omonia Square, Tel: 210.528.2800 Cosmetics, perfumes, luggage, clothing, & much, much more

EAT Ideal Restaurant

Panepistimiou 46, Tel: 210.330.3000 Greek classics in old-world decor


Sophokleous 1 & Aristidou Tel: 210.321.1882, Lavish Italian and contemporary dishes


Trata o Stelios Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9, Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town

Central Athens


To advertise, contact SHOP





Kratinou 5, Tel: 210.374.3000 Home décor superstore

Maritinos Pandrosou 50 Tel: 210.321.2414 Specializes in 19th Century folk art, embroidery & furniture

Food & wine

EAT Cantuccio Lepeniotou & Ivis 1 Tel: 210.323.3670 Authentic Italian cuisine in a friendly environment


Nikis 52, Tel: 210.322.9146 Packaged & fresh speciality foods

Theatrou & Sokratous Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava


Kouzina Cine-Psirri


Amorgos Kodrou 3, Tel: 210.324.3836 Hand-carved & painted furniture

Sari 44, Tel: 210.321.5534 Mediterranean fare & eclectic music

Nara Nara Karaiskaki 26, Tel: 210.331.2091 Lebanese food & dancing


Ochre & Brown

2 Mazi

Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine

Daphne’s Restaurant Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere

Electra Nikodimou 18-20, Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine

Platanos Diogenous 4, Tel: 210.322.0666 One of the few remaining tavernas preserving 1940s Athens

Scholarheio Tripodon 14, Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices



Adrianou 68 & Eolou Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine





Panepistimiou 17, Tel: 210.325.8440 The largest foreign language bookstore in Greece

Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.324.6210, Five floors of gaming, gadgets & books




Stadiou 28, Tel: 210.322.2160 Mostly French books and small selection of English fiction

Filellinon 7, Tel: 210.322.2659 Hand-woven fabrics & souvenirs since 1940

Department Stores


Graf Von Faber-Castell Boutique


Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods



Evripidou 65, Tel: 210.331.0907 Show off your groovy disco moves


Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly


SHOP Accessories Bag Stories

Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.321.8564 Traditional hand-held writing utensils

Kori Mitropoleos 13, Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery

Stadiou 41, Tel: 210.325.7770 Clothes, shoes and accessories for men, women & children

Psarros 1917 Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.322.0908 Executive gifts and smoking accessories

Stock House & Travel Ermou 45, Tel: 210.324.7732 Outlet store featuring brands from Parousiasi, Cook Shop & Bag Stories


Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.323.7405 Luggage & travel bags by Tumi, Porsche Design, Rimowa & Delsey

Fashion - Men’s







Vassilis Amalias 2-4, Tel: 210.323.2220 One of the oldest antique stores in Athens

Fashion Christoforos Kotentos

Beauty & Cosmetics

Sachtouri 3, Tel: 210.325.5434 Glamorous & unique designs

MAC Ermou 44, Tel: 210.325.8260 International cosmetic brand for women who like to play with colour

Baccarat Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.2863 Fine crystal from the venerable French luxury house

Pagoni Akadimias 61, Tel: 210.363.9277 Selling ties and cufflinks since 1933

Voulis 15, Tel: 210.323.2321 Specializing in arrangements with wild flowers, many indigenous to Greece


Food & Wine Aristokratikon Karageorgi Servas 9, Tel: 210.322.0546 Handmade chocolates

Cellier Kriezotou 1, Tel: 210.361.0040 Speciality wine shop

Pentelis 9 & Mitropoleos, Tel: 210.322.9020 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings Voukourestiou 8, Tel: 210.324.7118 Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories

Cartier Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison

insider athens | March & April 2012 57

Insider guide Gofas

Vassilis Zoulias Old Athens


Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.331.7540 High-end timepieces

Akadimias 30, Tel: 210.361.4762 Handmade shoes and handbags inspired by films of the 50s & 60s

Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 International cuisine with Mediterranean accents

Ilias Lalaounis Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller




Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces

Nikis 30, Tel: 210 3237878 Vegetarian restaurant

Cellier Le Bistrot


Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.363.8525 Excellent dishes accompany the extensive list of international wines

Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.7118 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs


Chopard Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the antique & classical periods as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso


Folli Follie


Ermou 18, Tel: 210.323.0739 Trendy & affordable jewellery & accessories

Ermou 63, Tel: 210.322.7590 Pick up a pair of Manolo’s at half price!


Dosirak Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Korean cuisine in the heart of Athens

Far East Stadiou 7, Tel: 210.323.4996 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings

Furin Kazan Apollonos 2, Tel: 210.322.9170 A Japanese favourite of expats & Athenians alike

GB Corner

The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Syntagma Square recommends:


George Economou collection at the new municipal gallery in Metaxourgeio Spondi, 2 star Michelin restaurant in Pangrati Cibus for Greek cuisine and Acropolis view in the Nat.Gardens Varoulko Michelin star with gourmet fish cuisine in Gazi Papadakis good island cuisine in Kolonaki Vanilla Club at Kanari 24 Villa Mercedes at Andronicou & Zafeiri 11, Rouf Messiah Rebirth at Karneadou 25 in Kolonaki Baraonda, Tsocha 43, Ambelokoipi

58 insider athens | March & April 2012

Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Boutique Filellinon 15, Tel: 210.323.1315 Popular Athenian night spot

Explorer’s Lounge NJV Athens Plaza, Syntagma Square, 210.335.2400, Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere

Kalua Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment

Tasaki Bar Miltiadou 19, Tel: 210 3310666

T Palace King George Palace Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.322.2210 Great for mingling & people-watching


Hotel Grand Bretagne Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0750 Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine

GB Spa

Indian Kitchen

Stadiou 4 & Voukourestiou Tel: 210.325.9400, Fully equipped health club with excellent array of classes

Apollonos 6, Tel: 210 3237720


Club Eat

Central Athens

Royal Olympic Hotel Ath. Diakou 28-34, Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop

Meatropoleos 3 Mitropoleos 3, Tel: 210 3241805 Modern greek grill restaurant

Multi 22 Ermou 116 & Leokoriou Tel: 210.331.6766 Italian fare served in a neoclassical house

Noodle Bar Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix

Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0799 Award-winning spa featuring treatments by E’SPA, Valmont & Algoane

Holmes Place

The Palace Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.374.3590 Ideal for rejuvenation after a long flight or a hectic bout of shopping


Zolotas pendant in gold with diamonds

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

EAT Peacock Hotel Hera, Falirou 9, Tel: 210 923 6682 Traditional food with breathtaking Acropolis views

Kollias Syngrou Ave. 303 Tel: 210 940 8620 Excellent seafood in a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere

To advertise, contact Plous Podilatou

Syngrou Ave. 156, Tel: 210 923 2918 Original seafood dishes, fresh ingredients and simple elegant interior

Ak. Koumoundourou 42 Tel: 210.413.7910 Sumptuous seafood & mouth-watering deserts on the waterfront

Kona Kai Athens Ledra Marriott, Syngrou Ave. 115, Tel: 210 930 0000 Polynesian, Teppanyaki and Sushi cuisine in an original luxury setting

Café Zoe

Tony Bonano Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93 Casual dining and terrific buffets for lunch and on Sundays Tel: 210 920 6655



Ak. Koumoundourou 48 Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay


Zorbas Ak. Koumoundourou 14 Tel: 210.411.1163 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean

Indian Masala (Indian) Ermou 129, Tel: 210 321 9412 Amazing Indian food at affordable price in a pleasant environment

Kirki Apostoplou Pavlou 31 Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break

Kuzina Adrianou 9, Tel: 210.324.0133 Inspired traditional recipes in a cozy arty environment




EAT Captain John's Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood

Dourambeis Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna

Jimmy and The Fish

Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084. Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada

Kollias Plastira 3, Tel: 210.462.9620 Excellent seafood but difficult to find; reserve on weekends

DRINK Iguana Ak. Dilaveri 15, Tel: 210.407.8861 Playing disco & techno tracks until 6am

Food & Wine

Big Apple South

All about Whisky

Posidonos 1, Tel: 210.948.5190 Casual cocktails in a modern atmosphere

Zinc “Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Cocktails whith music

Zythos Eleftherias 45, Tel: 210.985.0478 Reminiscent of an Irish pub with several beers to choose from

Vas. Georgiou B' 10 Tel: 210.968.1191, Specialty shop with a large selection of single malts, books, & anything to do with whisky

Provence Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen

EAT Aioli Restaurant


Artemidos 9, Tel: 210.894.0181 Mediterranean cuisine with an excellent “secret” seafood sauce



Eleftheroudakis Lazaraki 27, Tel: 210.325.8440 Book superstore with a large selection of English titles

Kyprou 65A, Tel: 210.898.3167 Mexican flavours in a friendly setting

Bayern Bierhaus Microbrewery Chr. Nezer 19, Tel: 210.894.4439 Authentic German cuisine

Beer Academy


N. Zerva 14, Tel: 210.898.0121 International cuisine in a cozy setting

Enny di Monaco


Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.894.0153 Carefully selected designs by various international designers

Saki Karayiorya 13, Tel: 210.894.3169 Lebanese cuisine & entertainment

Ensayar Donna


Istioploikos Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina

Katafigio Ak. Koumoundourou 4 Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house



Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel : 210 920 6981 Gourmet cuisine with splendid views

Etolikou 72 & Vitolion Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere




Southern & Northern Athens

EAT Il Tinello Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cooking


Amphitheas 6 & Poseidonos Tel: 210.988.6474 Authentic Indian cuisine

Kitchen Bar

Kyprou 55, Esperidon Square Tel: 210.894.3034 Top lines from leading designers with an English touch

Obervatory Attitudes A. Panagouli 17, Tel: 210.894.2113 The ultimate fashion store

Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Comfort food overlooking the sea


Le Petit Sommelier


Zaimi 6, Tel: 210.984.2344 French cuisine & excellent wine list

Metaxa 24-26, Tel: 210.894.6682 Unique jewellery designs

Mikras Asias & Lefkosias 36 Tel: 210.960.9337 Traditional dishes from Asia Minor

Cook Lobby

Ag. Ioannou 13, Glyfada. Tel: 210 9680031-32 Traditional Greek cuisine in minimalist setting

Far East Lazaraki 61, Tel: 210.894.0500 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings

insider athens | March & April 2012 59

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill! Kiliza


Konstantinopoleos 13 Tel: 210.894.4648 Delicious kebabs & decadent deserts

Giannitsopoulou 1, Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch

Southern & Northern Athens

La Casa Di Giorgino Lefkosias 42A, Tel: 210.963.85770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven


La pêche


Meat Square (Grill) Lambrakis 63 & Ag. Nikolaou, Tel: 210 961 1160 Juicy steaks in pleasant family environment

Molly Malone's Zannitsopoulou 8, Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens

Tartare Panagouli 52, Tel: 210.968.0320 Quality French cuisine

Posidonos 88, Tel: 210.894.1629 Beachfront dancing all night long

Balux Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging

Capri Bay Grigoriou Lambraki 2 Tel: 210.894.9995, Excellent cocktails in a Moroccan style garden

Cafes Chocolat Zisimopoulou 9, Tel: 210.894.3442 Satisfies even the most discerning coffee connoisseur


Il Segreto

Zisimopoulou 12, Tel: 210.894.5746 One of the first cafes to inspireGlyfada's coffee culture

Bizaniou 3, Tel: 210.965.9526 Authentic Italian set on a beautiful terrace

Nest Café Bar


Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.898.6035 An all-day hangout for locals & visitors

Seiza Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.968.0545 Cafe with a unique style & hip design

STREET Bar Restaurant is the new all-day meeting point in Neo Psychico. Specialities served include authentic juicy burgers, big healthy salads, perfectly- grilled meat, and last but not least, truly tempting desserts. (Tel. 2106710688) Funky Gourmet: In the warm and living restaurant environment, the chefs offer their guests a carefully designed menu of a modern creative cuisine based on advanced culinary techniques and always featuring top quality seasonal ingredients. (Tel. 2105242727) Salon de Bricolage: The members-only club aims at the promotion of art, gastronomy, winery, and entertainment, as well as wellbeing and conjectural arts. Visit the Acropolis museum with a private tour guide and enjoy lunch at Dionysos a landmark venue, globally well known as the restaurant under Acropolis. The unique view adds an exceptional value to Dionysos, combined to high quality service and cuisine. (Tel. 2109233182)

60 insider athens | March & April 2012

Posidonos 58A, Tel: 210.898.3577 A beach house turned lounge with all the amenities of a home.

Live Music Thalassa People's Stage Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.2979 Live Greek acts in a club atmosphere attracting a young crowd


To do Chill


The House Project

EAT Dream Grill V. Pavlou 78, Tel: 210.895.5110 Traditional recipes & authentic taste

Dvlcis in Fvndo Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic

Vari Sports Club Vari-Koropiou & Kalamatos 1 Tel: 210.899.0048


Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.894.1620 Creative seafood dishes combining Greek & French techniques

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

EAT Café Tabac

Margi Hotel, Litous 11, Tel: 210.967.0924 Delicious variations of Mediterranean food

Al Bacio

Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.0400 Trattoria serving traditional Italian dishes & pizza

Al Fresco The Westin, 40, Tel: 210.890.1709, Enjoy a romantic meal of creative Italian cuisine

Grill Room

Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1794, Mediterranean & seafood flavours on a breathtaking veranda, in the Astir complex




Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747 Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood & great service

Vas. Pavlou 99, Tel: 210.895.8400 Italian eats al fresco

Naiades Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint

Louizidis Ermou 2, Tel: 210.896.0591 Traditional Greek taverna popular with the locals

To advertise, contact

Matsuhisa Athens Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.896.0510, Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair

Mezza Luna Orpheos 2, Tel: 210.967.1046 Chic Italian restaurant

Mythos of the Sea Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood

Oro Toro Varis-Koropiou 73, Tel: 210.899.4514 A taste of Argentinian cuisine in a cosy atmosphere

Psaraki Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Seafood served in an informal setting

Schara Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Grills with frills in a friendly setting at reasonable prices

Waffle House Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth


NORTHERN ATHENS EAT Da Vinci Ag. Ioannou 23, Tel: 210 600 0102 Delightful dishes in fantastic ambience

Nanninela Peloponnissou 13 Tel: 210 600 5622 Authentic Italian cuisine in traditional decor

Olio by Portofino Ag. Ioannou 63, Tel: 210 639 1666, Mediterranean flavours in a chic interior

EAT Apsendi Kifissias 250-254 & Serres Tel: 210 671 7890 Refined cuisine and cocktails in stylish urban atmosphere

Bo Botrini’s Vasileos Georgiou B 24b, Halandri, Tel: 210 6857323


Meat Square

Bakaliko Ola Ta Kala

Ethnikis Antistaseos 9-11, Tel: 210 683 1300, Juicy steaks in pleasant family environment

Kifissias 238-240, Mela Shopping Centre, Tel: 210.808.9908 Quality Greek delicacies

Novo Romantico di Antonio

Sorpresa Italiana

25th Martiou 21, Tel: 210 689 6891 Authentic Italian cuisine with a modern twist

Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more


Stefanidis Finest Foods

K. Varnali 9, Tel: 210 685 0644 Exquisite dishes from China, Japan and Indonesia

Dimitrios Square 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen

1920 Ag. Paraskevi 110, Tel: 210 681 3029 Accent on meat in an elegant setting

Psaroma Sokratous 23, Tel: 210 683 9348 Imaginative parade of seafood and fresh fish


Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely

Halandri Ag.Paraskevi


Southern & Northern Athens

SHOP Beauty & Cosmetics Nyhi-Nyhi Kifissias 230 Tel: 210.623.2824 Stop by for a quick mani-pedi

Fashion 21 Kifissia

Varsos Kassaveti 5, Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie

Vinifera Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from

EAT Acqua Azzurra Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals

Apla 135 Charilaou Trikoupi Tel: 210.620.3102 Chrysanthos Karamolegos creates refined Mediterranean dishes

Kifissias 265, Tel: 210.801.3594 Extreme sport paraphernelia


Vassilis Zoulias


Kifissias 267, Tel: 210.801.3448 Spanish cuisine in a fun atmosphere

Posidonos 4, Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay

Pendelis 133, Tel: 210 689 0238 Choice of 600 wines to accompany memorable meals



Food & Wine

Common Secret

Filikis Eterias 39, Tel: 210 6819109 Refined seafood and magical summer garden


Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting

27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3809 Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location with views of the Saronic Gulf

Sofa Bar The Westin Hotel Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1709 Modern lounge bar serving up delectable cocktails

CHILL Arion Spa Astir Complex, Apollonos 40 Tel: 210.890.2000

Divani Apollon Palace & Spa Ag. Nikolaou 10, Tel: 210.891.1100

Argyropoulou 1-3, Tel: 210.801.7023 Unique designs reminiscent of times past

Argyropoulou 8, Tel: 210.801.6533 Decadent handmade chocolates

Vas Amalias 20, Tel: 210.801.3853 Traditional dishes from Greece & Asia Minor

Dali Kifissias 336, Tel: 210 685 4004 Multi-ethnic cuisine with original suggestions in arty set-up

Santa Fe Ag. Georgiou 30’B, Tel: 210 685 9690 Mexican food in traditional setting

Golden Phoenix Leof. Pendelis 85, Tel: 210 682 5017 Asian cuisine and sushi bar in luxury environment

Kitchen Bar K. Varnali 6, Tel: 210 689 2015 Delightful gastronomic tour in a relaxing atmosphere


insider athens | March & April 2012 61

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Northern Athens

Dos Hermanos

O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas



Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas

Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices

Deligianni 66, Pentelikon Hotel Tel: 210.623.0650-6, Cornerstone of French cuisine in Greece

Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s


El Taco Bueno

Dragoumi & Andrianou 28 Tel: 210 623 3900, Gourmet cuisine with Mediterranean influences by chef Christos Markopoulos in a cool urban setting

Piazza Mela

Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.800.1402 Divine food from all over the world

Kolokotroni 37, Tel: 210.808.9160 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Golden Phoenix

Royal Thai

Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet

Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2322 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting

Gourounakia Kifissias

Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Authentic Italian food & fabulous deserts

Kifissias 289, Tel: 210.801.1093 Delicious salads, appetizers, souvlakia & grilled platters


Kifissias 238, Mela Shopping Centre Tel: 210.623.6596, Classic & traditional Italian dishes


Salumaio di Atene

Semiramis Restaurant

Evagelistrias 36, Tel: 210.620.1572 Seafood taverna

Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere



Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please

Meat Me

Philadelpheos 2, Tel: 210.623.3622 Promises authentic Japanese cuisine for the truly discerning

HarilaouTrikoupi 92 Tel: 210.623.2358 Simple yet discerning cuisine in a funky Greek taverna

Telemachos Barbeque Club



Harilaou Trikoupi 50 Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambiance

Harilaou Trikoupi 27, Tel: 210.808.4418 Watch chefs prepare Turkish kebabs and other treats before your eyes

Fragkopoulou 22, Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection


62 insider athens | March & April 2012

Boudoir Deligianni 50 & Georganta Tel: 210.801.8384, Massive club for dancing & sipping on signature cocktails

Ethnikis Antistaseos & Psaron 1 Tel: 210.684.0460 Mexican flavours in a traditional setting

Jaipur Palace

Kifissias 239, Tel: 201.801.0810 Chic lounge serving classic concoctions

Ag. Konstantinou & Themidos Tel: 210.805.2762 Indian cuisine and fine wines

Menta CafĂŠ



Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe

Vinifera Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from all over the world



Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this cafĂŠ, bar, restaurant a must



Aghias Paraskevis 79 & Diogenous Tel: 210.685.5375, Great selection of wines with Greek and international cuisine

Golden Hall


Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and highstreet) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion

Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines

The Mall Athens Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food

EAT Altamira Perikleous 28, Tel: 210 612 8841 Multiethnic cuisine in funky environment

Wagamama Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.683.6844 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting

Whispers of wine Ag. Konstantinou 48, Tel: 210.617.9051 Gourmet food with rich wine list and vintage decor

see & do Art galleries

A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psirri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Agalma Troyman, 11635 Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., 106 75 Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938 Badminton Theatre Olympiaka Akinita, Goudi 157 73, Athens, Tel: 211 101 0020 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thisseio, Tel: 210.341.3935 Beyond Art Gallery Haritos 10, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.9744 B&M Theoharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens Tel: 210.361.1206 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxourgio, Tel: 210.331.7527 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a, 10671 Athens, Greece Tel: 210 360 7598 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Vas. Georgiou B 17 - 19 & Rigilis Str. Athens 10675, Tel: 210 9242 111-3 Fizz Gallery Valaoritou 9c, Athens 10671 Greece, Tel: 210 360 7598 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens 10671, Tel: 210 364 0215 Gallery 7 Zalokosta 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.2050 Gialino Music Theatre Sigrou 143, N. Smirni, Athens Tel: 210 9316 101-4 Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st. 11471 Athens, Tel: 210 643 9466 Jill Yakas Spartis 16, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.2773 K-Art Gallery Sina 54, 106 72, Athens, Greece Tel: 211 401 3877 Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679 Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Tel: 210.642.6573

Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 201.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries. Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. Kastorias 34-36, Votanikos. Tel: 210.348.0000. Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street. Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting. Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works. Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589. Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that marked the boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues.

Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos. Tel: 210.321.0185. Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens. Tel: 210.923.1502 Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502 Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue Tel: 210.367.1000, Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos. Tel: 210.325.1311

Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou Tel: 210.345.3111, Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Tel: 210.721.1027. Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, Tel: 210.323.4678 Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Tel: 210.722.8321 Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio. Tel: 210-346.1981. Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni. Tel: 210.922.7260. Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka. Tel: 210.322.5582. Keramikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552. Maria Callas Museum Technopolis, Pireos 100, Gazi, Tel: 210.346.1589 National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50. Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens. Tel: 210.363.5953. The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street Tel: 210.924.1043,

Just for kids

Tel: 210.322.9705

Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali. Tel: 210.728.2333 Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am. Panathenian Stadium “Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street. Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma (Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changingof-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian's Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330. Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed. Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220.



Pallas Theatre Skoufa 77 & Staikou 2, Kolonaki Athens, Tel: 210 364 0783 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Tel: 210. 364.0288 The Art Foundation (TAF) Normanou 5, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.323.8757 The Eynard Mansion Aghiou Konstantinou 20 & Menandrou, Athens 104 31, Tel: 210 322 1335 The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 - Vas. Constantinou 1, 115 28 Athens, Tel: 210-7235857 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati, Tel: 210.729.7644 Tsatsis Project/ Artforum 12 Mitropoleos st. & Venizelou PC 54624 Thessaloniki, Tel: 231 025 7552 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, 105 52 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210 331 9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278 Zoumboulakis Gallery Graphics & Editions Kriezotou 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454

Attractions & Sites


Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis, Tel: 210.425.6999, Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2995. Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.5870, Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows! Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, Tel: 210.322.9031 Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.22621

Summit The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.0093, Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000

insider athens | March & April 2012 63

partner hotels ARION RESORT & SPA




The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants. Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

314 deluxe guest rooms, 18 suites. Rooftop swimming pool and bar, health club, Kona Kai Polynesian - Tepanyiaki Restaurant and sports bar. Syngrou 115. Tel: 210.930.0000

Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view. Parthenonos 19-25. Makrigianni. Tel: 210.928.0100

Beautifully renovated property with views of the sea and the Acropolis. Ten minutes from central Athens, the port of Piraeus and main exhibition centers. Syngrou 385. Tel: 210.947.1000



NJV athens plaza

This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques. Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools. Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.333.0000

Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Athens Tel: 210 3352400

Holiday Inn Attica Avenue


New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport. State-of-the art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center. 40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18. Tel: 210.668.9000,

The newly renovated Novotel is designed for natural living. Close to Omonoia square and the National Museum. Open plan bar and rooftop bar and restaurant and pool.4-6 Mikhail Voda Street Tel: 210.820.0700,


543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space. New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants. Syngrou 89-93. Tel: 210.920.6000

Designed by the Campana brothers, NEW, the latest venture of YES! Hotels has 79 luxury rooms, including 18 Studios and 6 Junior Suites. NEW Taste, is the Hotel’s innovative restaurant concept. Filellinon 16, Syntagma. Tel: 210.3273000 Crowne plaza


66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine. Kallirois 32 & Petmeza. Tel: 210.921.5353 ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL

Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis. Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking. N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka. Tel: 210.337.0000 ATHENS HILTON

Newly renovated, the former Holiday Inn Athens is at a very convenient location and attracts both business and leisure travellers. Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking. Michalakopoulou 50. Tel: 210.727.8000, DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA

Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa. Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri-Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.891.1100

Holiday Suites

Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette. Arnis 4.Tel: 210.727.8000,

Near the Acropolis Museum. 265 rooms and 45 unique Panorama Suites, overlooking the Temple of Zeus and the Acropolis. Pool, business center, convention and banquet facilities. Roof Garden Restaurant/Bar “Ioannis”. 28-34, Ath. Diakou Str., 11743 Athens, Greece. Tel. 210 9288400,



Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities. Pentelis 1, Kifissia. Tel: 210.623.3333

YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows. Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant. Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia. Tel: 210.628.4400


508 renovated rooms, two pools, banquet rooms restaurants, convention facilities, business centre & spa. The rooftop Galaxy bar has gorgeous city views. Vas. Sofias 46. Tel: 210.728.1000

situated close to major tourist attractions with, rooftop restaurant and swimming pool. Vas. Alexandrou 2, Tel: 210.720.7000

64 insider athens | March & April 2012

Royal Olympic




COSTA NAVARINO The Westin Resort Costa Navarino

Airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities. Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool. Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.354.4000 ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL

A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites. “21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining. Kolokotroni 21, Kefalari-Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521.


Located at the base of the Acropolis and a five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium barcoffee shop. Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni. Tel: 210.923.6832 HOTEL ELECTRA


Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Rooftop swimming pool. Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.729.0711 THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL

Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka. Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma and Monastiraki. Lysikratous street 9-11, Plaka. Tel: 210.325.9000,

Within walking distance from all major archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas. Ermou 5, Syntagma. Tel: 210.337.8000

Inspired by old Messinian mansions, the Westin resort’s low-rise villa clusters use natural stone and local design elements to create a motif in perfect harmony with the virgin sandy beach and pristine hillside landscape. Its 445 deluxe rooms and suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort



In an elegant neoclassical building in Kefalari, this hotel has a restaurant, bar, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet and conference facilities. Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia. Tel: 210.623.3622-6 THE MARGI

The Coral’s 86 rooms and 2 suites offer all modern conveniences. Poseidonos Avenue 35, Paleo Faliron. Tel: 210.981.6441 Fresh Hotel

Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests. Café Tabac Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and J-lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne. Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts. Litous 11, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.892.9000. THE WESTIN ATHENS

Designed for people who wish to be part of all that goes on in the city. 17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels. Haritos 22, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.729.7200,

Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are wellappointed and comfortable. Offers good value for money in the Acropolis area. Mitseon 3, Makrigianni. Tel: 210.922.3611-4

Would you like TO see your Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool. Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

hotel LISTED here? CONTACT US at:



Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka, Psirri and Monastiraki. Enjoy the hip Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool. Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous. Tel: 210.524.8511-6.

The Romanos Resort boasts of 289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with individual infinity pools. Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches sets the tone in each space, where the sparkling blue of the Mediterranean is the preferred hue.

Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre. Mystique, Oia. Tel. 22860 71114 VEDEMA, SANTORINI

@ Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites. Vedema, Megalohori. Tel. 22860 81 796

insider athens | March & April 2012 65

AUDIOVISUAL OTE video conference service 7.30am-10pm. Patission 85. Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399 TCS M. Antipa 20 & 2 Prometheus, Tel: 210.976.7086

COMPUTER & CELL-PHONE RENTAL TrimTel Mobile Communications Michalakopoulou 41, Tel: 210.729.1964

Commercial Office spaces Regus Tel: 210 727 9000 Global Business Services Tel: 210-8764 876 Kifissias Ave. 90, Maroussi

COURIER SERVICES ACS Tel: 210.819.0000 DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City Tel: 210.821.9959 Geniki Taxydromiki Tel: 210.485.1100 Interattika Tel: 210.540.5400 Speedex Tel: 801.11.000.11 UPS Tel: 210.998.4000

Driving Schools in English Denis Kasimatis - Driving School Zografou, Papagou, Ilissia, Psychiko, Cholargos and Goudi - Tel: 210 778 3157 210 779 6981 Trochokinisi Driving School 28th Oktovriou 126, Ambelokipi, Athens Tel: 231 072 9092 Driving School Highway Amfitheas and Ag. Triados 30, 175 64 Paleo Faliro - Tel: 210 988 8098 / 6997 722 777 Vlachos Bros 25th Martiou 11, Peristeri; Xenofodos 17, Peristeri; Afroditis 39, Ilion Tel: 210 574 4895 / 210 576 9190

Relocation Agencies Allied Pickfords Tel: 210 610 4494 Mourouzi 7, Athens Athens Relocation Centre Tel: 210 96 50 697, Zakynthou 10, Attica Movers Tel: 210 922 7221 19, Syngrou Ave Celebrity International Movers 102, Kapodistriou Ave, Tel: 210 272 0106 Corporate Relocations Athens Tel: 210 800 3510, Ag. Saranta 32 Nea Erithrea Orphee Beinoglou Tel: 210 9466100 27th km Old National Road Athens-Korinth Location Elefsinia, GR-19200 Elefsina Omega Transport Thesi Kyrilos, 19300 Aspropyrgos Tel: 210 947 5500 Octopus Relocation Services Ygeias 7, Marina Zeas, Tel: 210 4599530

CLASSIFIEDS FOR SALE 73m2 apartment near Acropolis Museum with on-site parking space, on 3rd floor, bright, facing street, built in 2007. It comprises one large open-plan living area, separate fitted kitchen, WC, storage room, and 13m2 covered veranda. Equipped with parquet wood floor, independent natural gas heating, Guzzini lighting system, Daikin a/c units, Buchtal ceramic tiles, double glazing, security door. It is located only 220m from metro station, 80m from tram & bus stops. Contact tel. 697 6558 536.

For Rent in Glyfada Top floor apartment, 3 bedrooms, fully furnished. Sunny and airy, central heat and A/C units all rooms. Convenient location, very comfortable. For more info CALL 2291024129.

For Rent/ SALE in Hydra Fully furnished, recently renovated, three bedroom, three bathroom villa with living room, open kitchen, courtyard, and terraces with breathtaking views of the island and the Peloponnese. For more information, contact

66 insider athens | March & April 2012

TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING Executive services, translation & interpreting All EU and Balkan languages - legal, technical and medical documents. Athens Tower B. Tel:Â 210.778.3698 Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi. Tel: 210.876.4876 IBS - International Business Services Michalakopoulou 29, Tel: 210.724.5541

Travel Agencies Travel Plan Tel: 210 333 3300 Amphitrion Tel: 210 900 6000 Meg Alexandrou 7 & Karaiskaki, TravelPlanet24 Tel: 211 107 9684 241, Syngrou Ave. & 2, Alikarnassou 171 22 Nea Smyrni, Athens Mid-east Travel Tel: 211 211 8888 Vas Sofias 105-107 /

Embassies Cultural Institutes

Business services

useful information

French Institute Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210 339 8600 Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210 368 0900 British Council 17 Kolonaki Square 17 106 73 Athens Tel: 210 369 2333 Instituto Cervantes Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens Tel: 210 3634117 Goethe Institut Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens Tel: 210 3661000 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213 017 8000 Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission [28 Oktovriou] 47 Tel: 210 369 2333, 210 524 2646

ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Tel: 210.687.6200 ALGERIA Vas. Constantinou 14 Tel: 210.756.4191-2 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59. Tel: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Tel: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Avenue 4, Tel: 210.725.7270 AZERBAiJAN Skoufa 10. Tel: 210.363.2721 BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Tel: 210.360.0314

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3. Tel: 210.641.0788 BRAZIL Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14. Tel: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.8105 CANADA Ioanni Gennadiou 4. Tel: 210.727.3400 CHILE Kifisias 317A Tel: 210.807.1020 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.1212 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei. Tel: 210.685.5550 CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A. Tel: 210.373.4800 CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.671.9701 DENMARK Mourouzi 10. Tel: 210.725.6440 EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3. Tel: 210.361.8612 ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4. Tel: 210.747.5660 FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5. Tel: 210.725.5860 FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7. Tel: 210.339.1000 FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3. Tel: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25. Tel: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3. Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16. Tel: 210.674.1436 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7. Tel: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2. Tel: 210.361.7260 JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri. Tel: 210.670.9900 JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.4161 Kazakhstan Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765 KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens. Tel: 210.698.4080 KUWAIT Perikleous 2, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.3593 LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49. Tel: 210.729.4356 LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38. Tel. 210.729.4483 LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofitou Vamva 2.Tel: 210.725.6400 MALTA V. Sofias 96.Tel: 210.778.5138

useful information

Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016. They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer. Duty Pharmacies Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings. Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434 Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777 Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coastguard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000

ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 168 Tourist Information Tel: 174

Paediatric Hospitals

EUROCLINIC PAEDON Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.746.7000 PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535

Private Hospitals Advanced Medical Services, Symmetria Building Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri. Tel: 210.677.3573 CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31. Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000


Cosmetic, Implant & Reconstructive Dentistry 20-22 Ipsilantou str., Kolonaki 106 76 Athens-Greece Tel: 210 7242211 Fax: 210 7242212 E-mail: Website:

English media


EUROCLINIC diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre. Athanasiadou 9. (near Mavili Sq.). Tel: 210.641.6600 EURODENTICA Specialized dental care Patision 150, Tel: 210. 866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.5760-1 El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea. Tel: 210.956.5365 HYGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.7000 IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER) Areos 36, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100 METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi. Tel: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.9000

public Hospitals ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL specialized trauma unit. Nikis 2, Kifissia. Tel: 210.628.0000 TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus. Tel: 210.451.9411-9

Newspapers The International Herald Tribune carries the English version of Kathimerini The local Athens News comes out Fridays.

Radio Antenna 97.2 FM news at 8.25am. Flash Radio 96.0 FM 8.55am, 3pm and 8pm daily. ERA public radio 91.6 FM for bulletins at 5am and 9am, full news coverage at 9.30pm.


PHYSICIANS (ENGLISH SPEAKING) Ioannis Bitzos, MD Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62 Kifissia. Tel: 210.808.0682 A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD Eye Surgeon, Mesogeion 2, Athens Tower B’ Tel: 210.747.2777 Dimitris Linos, MD FACS General Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia. Tel: 210.612.5001-2 heart & vascular centrE E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC FSCAI Interventional cardiologist. Southern Athens. Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou Tel:210.897.6276.

Greek Language


VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.9169 VIETNAM Yakinthon 50, Psychiko. Tel. 210.612.8733, 210.675.3080.


MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14. Tel: 210.729.4780 MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei. Tel: 210.699.0660 MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.4210 NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7. Tel: 210.725.4900 NIGERIA Dolianis 65, Maroussi. Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Vas. Sofias 23. Tel: 210.724.6173 PAKISTAN Loukianou 6. Tel: 210.729.0122 PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychiko. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3 PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus. Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU Semitelou 2. Tel: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23. Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 QATAR Rigillis 16A Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.8875 RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.5235 SAUDIA ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias Annis Tel: 210.671.6911 SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Tel: 210.777.4344 SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.1980 SLOVENIA Mavili 10, Tel: 210.672.0090-091 SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi. Tel: 210.610.6645 SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Tel: 210.921.3123 SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Tel: 210.726.6100 SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Tel: 210.723.0364-6 TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychiko, Tel: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Tel: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel: 210.680.0230 UNITED KINGDOM Ploutarchou 1. Tel: 210.727.2600 UNITED STATES Vas. Sofias 91. Tel: 210.721.2951 URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia Tel: 210.361.3549

The Athens Center 48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636, Greece 210 7015-242 CELT Athens 77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210 3301455 Greek House Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210 808 5186 Hellenic American Union 22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210368.0900 Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210 6122706

insider athens | March & April 2012 67

Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED), Tel: 210 99 89 000 Public Services Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177,

Public Power Corporation (DEI) In case of power failure: Tel: 210, 523 9939

Weather Attica, Tel: 148,

Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP) In case of water cut: Tel: 1202,

Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman: 5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel), Tel: 210 72 89 640

Universities University of Indianapolis Ipitou 9, Athens, Tel: 210 323 6647 DEREE Gravias 6, Aghia Paraskevi, Tel: 210 600 9800

ALBA Graduate Business School Athinas Ave. & Areos 2A, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210 896 4531 American University of Athens Kifisias & Sochou 4, Neo Psichiko, Tel: 210 725 9301 Business College of Athens Tatoiou 2 & Othonos 77, Kifissia Tel: 210 808 8008

International Kindergartens

International Schools

St Catherine's British Embassy School Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210 282 9750 St. Lawrence College Anemon St, Koropi Tel: 210 891 7000 American Community Schools of Athens Aghias Paraskevis Ave. 129, Halandri, Tel: 210 639 3200 Campion School Aghias Ioulianis, Pallini Tel: 210 607 1700 Byron College Filolaou 7, Gerakas Tel: 210 604 7722 International School of Athens Xenias and Artemidos, Kifissia, Tel: 210 623 3888 Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix Chlois & Trikalon, Ag. Paraskevi Tel: 211 300 9121 Scuola Statale Italiana Odos Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia Tel: 210 228 2720 German School in Athens Homatianou & Ziridi, Maroussi Tel: 210 619 9261 Greek German School 25 Martiou & Vernardou, Vrylissia Tel: 210 682 0566

68 insider athens | March & April 2012

English kindergartens The Cottage Kindergarten Psaron 74, Halandri Tel: 210 682 7629 Early Learning Rizountos 53, Elliniko Tel: 210 961 8763 Hopscotch International Kindergarten Ag. Triandos 93, Vari Tel: 210 965 3985 Kifissia Montessori School Ellinikon Stratou 5, Kifissia Tel: 210 620 7481 Melina’s Kindergarten Harilaou Trikoupi 16, Kifissia Tel: 210 801 2719 Peek-a-boo PreSchool Vougliameni Tel: 210 967 1970 Peter Pan Lakonias 4-6, Voula Tel: 210 895 9654 Prince Allen The English Nursery School Lysimahou 8, Vari Tel: 210 965 6800

Au petit bonheur 50 Iraklitou, Glyfada, Tel: 210 9658 207 Les Alouettes Spartis 36 & Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia Tel: 210 80 11 570 L’Air des Contes 11, Cycladon, Glyka Nera, Tel : 210 600 3196 Le Castelet 18 Gortinias, Kifissia, Tel: 210 808 7760 Mary Poppins 4, Kodrou, Filothei, Tel: 210 677 3803 Play and Learn Kassaveti 22, Kifissia, Tel: 210 801 1428

German kindergartens O mikros Antonis Barbayiannis, Pallini, Tel: 210 603 2527

Italian kindergartens Scuola maternal italiana de Atene Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia, Tel: 210 202 0274 Il Mulino magico Troados 23, Ag Paraskevi, Tel: 210 600 3148 British Council Library Kolonaki Sq. 17 Tel: 210 363 3211/5 American Library Masalias 22 (4th floor) Tel: 210 363 8114 American School of Classical Studies Blegen Souedias 54, Tel: 210 723 6313 Athens College Library Stephanou Delta, P. Psychiko Tel: 210 671 4628 Hellenic American Union Greek Library 22 Masalias St (7th floor), Tel: 210 362 9886 French Institute Library 31 Sina St, Tel: 210 362 4301 German Archaeological Institute Library Pheidiou 1, Tel: 210 362 0270 Goethe Institute Library Omirou 14-16, Tel: 210 360 8111 Italian Institut Library Patision 47, Tel: 210 522 9294 EU Library Vas. Sophias 2, Tel: 210 724 3982 National Library Tzavella 25, Tel: 210 382 0657 Benakeios Library Anthimou Gazi 2, Tel: 210 322 71


Road Assistance ELPA: 104

Social Security & Health insurance (IKA)


French kindergartens Telephone & Internet Services (OTE) New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169


Post Phone

useful information

Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am-1:30pm.

AMERICAN EXPRESS Tel: 210.326.2626 DINERS CLUB Tel: 210.929.0200 EUROCARD Tel: 210.950.3673 MASTERCARD Tel: 00800.1188.70303, VISA Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04

Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00, then the country code. To call from a Public payphone buy a phone card at the kiosks

Incoming by Travel Plan Quality that meets your expectations!


advertise in our listings, and reach thousands of customers

email us at

getting around

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. 24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE

Car rental

WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service. Tel: 210.353.0100 For info about the public bus lines please check our section Getting Around Ada Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.322.0087 Arena Tel: 210.894.6883, 210.614.7400 Auto Union Tel: 210.922.1211/1213 Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8 Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury Rentals Tel: 210.922.2442/43 Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171


Public transport

AAA Royal Prestige Tel: 210.988.3221 Astra Limousine Service Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996 Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services Tel: 210.322.5090 Limousines Kakaya Tel: 210.323.4120 Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (€1) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 6€.

EXPRESS BUS from/ to airport To and from Syntagma Square (bus X95, 70 min. approx.), Ethniki Amyna metro station (bus X94, 50 min. approx.) and Piraeus (bus X96, 90 min. approx.). Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board. Buses leave every 10-15 minutes. Fare is €3.20 and the ticket is valid for 24 hours on buses, trolleys and metro. For further information dial 185 or visit, www. For info on trains see

HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANIsATION Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002

ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Agios Antonios-Agios Dimitrios) 5.30am-midnight, Line 3 (EgaleoDoukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Egaleo-Airport) 5.30am-22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm. The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week.

tram Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight.

TAXIS from the airport cost about €20 to Syntagma Square, €25 to Piraeus, depending on traffic. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies. Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171


Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000, Anek Lines Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines Tel:801 11 75 000

Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa, Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100Tel: 210.512.4910-1, Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia, Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260.


RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada Tel: 210.960.5600 There is a booking fee of e1 added to the meter

Sea ports Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888

Sea ports & Ferries



Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France KLM Tel: 210.998.0222 Air Malta Tel: 210.965.2300-22 Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American Tel: 210.361.3373 Air Taxis (Helicopter and plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149 British Airways Tel: 801.11.56000 BMI Tel: 210.960.0942 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Delta Tel: 210.331.1673-6 Easy Jet Tel: 210.353.0300 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.960.56.08 Gulf Air Tel: 210.322.0851 Iberia Tel: 210.353.6004 Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 210.966.6666 Qatar Airways Tel: 210.950.8700 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Tunisair Tel: 210 3220104-5 Turkish Tel: 210.353.7280-2

Ferries Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000 From the Port of Piraeus Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands:

A1 Yacht Trade Consortium Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus. Tel: 210.458.7100 Ghiolman Yachts Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.0330 Nava Yachts Loudovikou Sq. 6, Piraeus. Tel: 210.417.7728 Northstar Poseidonos 54, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000 PGA Alimou & Poseidonos, Alimos. Tel: 210.985.9400 Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula. Tel: 210.895.2212, 210.895.6733 Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29, Alimos. Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301 Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki. Tel: 210.985.0122-8

Gates G & E

Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands:

Gates B, G & D

Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate G

Superfast Ferries Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens. Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130 Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700

insider athens | March & April 2012 69

sales points For central Athens points, see i on map EASTERN SUBURBS Gerakas: Mini Market Milionis: 131, Marathonos Avenue Pallini: Bookshop Bouzas: 63, Marathonos Street Peania: Bookshop Tangopoulos: Agias Triados Street

NORTHERN SUBURBS AG.PARASKEVI: Mini Market Avarakis: 3, Themistokleous Street, Kiosk Theodoropoulos: 8, Polytechniou Street DIONYSSOS: Kiosk Michail: 4, Mitropolitou Kydonion Street EKALI: Kiosk Kyrpoglou: Vassileos Pavlou Square FILOTHEI: Kiosk Roupa: Drossopoulou Square, Super Market Kyriakopoulos: 11, M.Renieri Street, Mini Market Plati: 27, V.Georgiou Street HALANDRI: Mini Market Kyriakou: 3, Lykourgou Street, Kiosk Drizos: V. Konstantinou & V.Georgiou Street, Bookshop Evripidis: 11, V.Konstantinou Street, Mini Market Bakatsia: 46, Pendelis Avenue, Bookshop Vivliostyl: 34, Olympou Street, Mini Market Tsakiri: 76, Ag.Antoniou Street HOLARGOS: Kiosk Bekiaris: 212, Messogion Aveue, Kiosk Tambouridis: 256, Messogion Avenue KEFALARI: Kiosk Glentzis: Patr.Maximou & Apergi Square KIFISSIA: Kiosk Karadouman: 36-38, Kyriazi Street, Bookshop Gioggaras: 34, Elaion Street, Kiosk Koutsodimou: 308, Kifissias Avenue MAROUSSI: Tobacco & Gifts Tsitsilonis: 41-43, Kifissias Avenue, Tobacco & Gifts Raptis: 64, Kifissias Street, Kiosk Stefanopoulos: 46, Kifissias Street, Mini Market Kitsios: 43, Grammoou & Dionyssou Street MELISSIA: Kiosk Manikas: 75, Dimokratias Avenue, Mini Market Koufopandelis: 28, Pigis Street NEA ERYTHREA: Kiosk Anastassopoulos: 142, Harilaou Trikoupi Street, Bookshop Giannaki: 169, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street, Newsstand: 20 klm National Road Athens-Lamia, Kiosk Konidakis: Thisseos Avenue & Papadaki, Kiosk Kallergis: 130, Tatoiou Street NEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Katichidis: E.Makariou & Michalakopoulou Street, Kiosk Doukas: 44, Diamantidou Street, Kiosk Gionis: 25, Chr.Smyrnis & Ag.Georgiou Street PAPAGOU: Mini Market Papavassiliou: 16, Ellispontou Street

PALEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Kyriakou: Solomou Square, Kiosk Gialama: Efkalypton Square, Kiosk Polydoros: Kifissias & Ag.Dimitriou Street, Kiosk Kalogeropoulos: V. GeorgiouSquare, Kiosk Kontabasis: 2, Amaryllidos & V. Pavlou Street, Kiosk Kalfagian: V. Georgiou B’ 11 POLITIA: Kiosk Vovlas: Politia Square VRILISSIA: Kiosk Theodoropoulou: 5, Analypsi Square, Kiosk Aggelopoulos: Pendelis Avenue & Omirou, Bookshop Karystinaiou: 69, Alefiou Street

SOUTHERN SUBURBS GLYFADA: Kiosk Tamourantzis: 3, Metaxa & Maragou Street, Kiosk Tsakanikas: 3, Lambraki Street, Kiosk Mavraki: Pandoras & Ioanni Metaxa, Kiosk Adamopoulos: 20, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Papadakou: 7, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Haikal: 1, Ioanni Metaxa & Fivis Street, Kiosk Bolota: Gounari & Iraklitou Street, Kiosk Bellou: 5, Saki Karagiorga Street, Mini Market Agiokatsikos: 24, Ilias Street HELLINIKO: NewsStand: 43-47, Vouliagmenis Avenue ILIOUPOLIS: Super Market Kokossis: 5, Glastonos Street LAGONISI: Kiosk Vassiliadis: 37,5 klm Athinon-Souniou Avenue NEA SMYRNI: Kiosk Manoussos: 28, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street VARKIZA: Kiosk Paraskevopoulou: Varkiza Square VOULA: Kiosk Leontopoulos: 12, Sokratous Street, Mini Market Pournara: 33, Pringipos Petrou Street, Kiosk Christopoulou: V. Pavlou & Ag. Ioanni Street VOULIAGMENI: Kiosk Andrioti: Armonias Square, Kiosk Chryssikos: 1, Ermou Street, Kiosk Kylitis: 14, Thisseos Street PALEO FALIRO: Kiosk Kombogianni: 1, Ag. Alexandrou Street, Kiosk Kapetanou: 24, Achilleos Street, Mini Market Nikouli: 9, Pliadon Street, Tobacco & Gifts Berekos: 1, Possidnos Avenue & Moraitini Street PIRAEUS: Hand Delivery Telstar: 57, Akti Miaouli, Tourist Chop Siatras: 46, Akti Koumoundourou Street, Kiosk Samarogiannis: 7, Merarhias B’Street, Kiosk Siaho: Akti Moutsopoulou (Kanari Square), Kiosk Kentros: 73, Iroon Polytechniou Street, Kiosk Fotis: 1, Loudovikou Street, Kiosk Spalas: 111, Karaiskou Street, Newsstand: Railway Station Loudovikou Square

For central Athens stores, see on map ASPROPIRGOS Filis 100 & Bouboulinas, Tel: 210.558.0989 ERMOU Ermou 24 Tel: 210. 331.3167 & 325.7744 KALLITHEA Thisseos & Davaki, Tel: 210.956.5959 - 956.5446 KIFISSIA Kassaveti 6, Tel: 210.623.1741 & 623.1742 KORYDALLOS Taxiarhon 110A, Tel: 210.569.5270 569.5998 THE MALL, Notios Paradromos Attikis Odou, Tel: 210.630.0125 & 630.0126 AVENUE Kifissias 41-45, Tel: 210.610.9739 & 610.9740

70 insider athens | March & April 2012

GOLDEN HALL Kifissias Av. 37A & Sp. Louis, Tel: 210.683.7343 PANGRATI Ymittou 110 & Hremonidou, Tel: 210.751.8005 GLYFADA A. Metaxa 33-35, Tel: 210. 894.3378 & 894.5884 KOLONAKI Milioni 2, Tel: 210. 361.2666 & 362.9925 NEA MAKRI Marathonos Av. 117, Tel: 229.409.9661 PERISTERI Ethnikis Antistaseos 12, Tel: 210. 571.0755 PETROU RALLI Petrou Ralli 97, Tel: 210. 569.6596 & 569.7316 PIKERMI 21oklm. Marathonos Av., Tel: 210. 603.9987 PSYCHIKO Kifissias 210, Tel: 210. 677.5527 & 674.0178 VRILISSIA Pentelis Av. 72, Tel: 210. 810.1971 & 810.1972

city map

Map courtesy of Emvelia Publications

insider athens | March & April 2012 71










Christos Caras A retrospective on the works of Christos Caras, spanning his compositions from 1959 to 2012 is currently on at the B&M Theocharakis Foundation. The exhibition provides a real insight into the creative influences of one of the most prolific artists of the ‘60s generation – from his earlier somber works, a reaction to the stark violence he was exposed to as a child growing up in war-torn Thessaly to his Pop Art phase rich in colour and experimentation to his more recent geometric abstractions.

72 insider athens | March & April 2012

Insider 102 March - April 2012  

Insider issue 102 March - April 2012

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