Insider 100

insider athens | Dec 2011 - Jan 2012

Arts and Events Galleries Art Culture Photography Books Society Education History Busi My Athens Big Apple Beat Music Sport Fashion Art Review Literature Time Lapse THE CITY OF Talking PointMAGAZINE Education Cityscope Diplomacy Travel Leisure Phoro Essay Greek Life Ene Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Agora Fashion Grape Ideas Green Living Greek C Secret Gardens Restaurant Reviews ATHENS Escapes Design Urban Living Media Tribute Kosmik City Scope Adventure Ecospeak Nightlife Oenophile Insider News Restaurant Index Kaleido Area-wise Listings Fast Lane Greek Chic Business Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Arts and Events Galleries Art Culture Photography Books Society Education History Busi My Athens Big Apple Beat Music Sport Fashion Art Review Literature Time Lapse Talking Point Education Cityscope Diplomacy Travel Leisure Phoro Essay Greek Life Ene Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Agora Fashion Grape Ideas Green Living Greek C Secret Gardens Restaurant Reviews Escapes Design Urban Living Media Tribute Kosmik City Scope Adventure Ecospeak Nightlife Oenophile Insider News Restaurant Index Kaleido Arts and Events Galleries Art Culture Photography Books Society Education History Busi My Athens Big Apple Beat Music Sport Fashion Art Review Literature Time Lapse Talking Point Education Cityscope Diplomacy Travel Leisure Phoro Essay Greek Life Ene Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Agora Fashion Grape Ideas Green Living Greek C Secret Gardens Restaurant Reviews Escapes Design Urban Living Media Tribute Kosmik City Scope Adventure Ecospeak Nightlife Oenophile Insider News Restaurant Index Kaleido Area-wise Listings Fast Lane Greek Chic Business Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Arts and Events Galleries Art Culture Photography Books Society Education History Busi My Athens Big Apple Beat Music Sport Fashion Art Review Literature Time Lapse Talking Point Education Cityscope Diplomacy Travel Leisure Phoro Essay Greek Life Ene Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Agora Fashion Grape Ideas Green Living Greek C Secret Gardens Restaurant Reviews Escapes Design Urban Living Media Tribute Kosmik City Scope Adventure Ecospeak Nightlife Oenophile Insider News Restaurant Index Kaleido Arts and Events Galleries Art Culture Photography Books Society Education History Busi My Athens Big Apple Beat Music Sport Fashion Art Review Literature Time Lapse Talking Point with: Education Cityscope Diplomacy Travel Mr. Leisure Phoro Essay Greek Life Ene Interviews Minister of Culture and Tourism Pavlos Geroulanos, Best-selling author Victoria Hislop Agora Fashion Grape Ideas Green Living Greek C Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Insider 100 issues special: Not just a decade of decadence / The euro: Tribute the end Kosmik Secret Gardens Restaurant Reviews Escapes Design Urban Living Media of an affair / Being Hundred / Inside Out and Upside Down / Wishes from Insider’s City Scope Adventure Ecospeak Nightlife Oenophile Insider News Restaurant Index Kaleido clients / Reader’s reactions Plus: Gift guide / Secret gardens Area-wise Listings Fast Lane Greek Chic Business Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Dec 2011-Jan 2012 Year 10. Issue 100 €4.50 ISSN 1790-3114

100 issues!

PLUS: ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, MAPS AND MORE

Sudha Nair-Iliades

This time, it is with more than nostalgia that we look back on the year that was. For us, at Insider, it was a particularly mixed year. On the one hand, the excitement and build-up to our 100th issue was palpable – on the other, it was impossible not to have been affected by the extraordinary events that have swamped our tiny nation.

publisher’s note The good thing about milestones is that it gives you perspective – it lifts you from your immediate burning concerns to look back at a decade that was packed with such life-altering, cathartic, changes. Greece gained access into the big boys club and shortly after the switch to the euro, came the pressure to deliver for the Olympics. And with it, a slew of infrastructure projects that completely transformed the way we live, commute, work and play. After having won the Eurovision contest, the Euro 2004 and outperformed all expectations to deliver a magnificent Games - it seemed that Greece had got it right every time round.

When I took over, the after-glow had started to wane and the slide in the economy had begun – it was just that everyone was too busy having a good time to notice.

So it is with a lot of pride, but also with a lot of humility that we look back on our role as chroniclers of this extraordinary decade, as recorders of changes that the metropolis went through as our magazine evolved in content and circulation.

None of that would have been possible, if it hadn’t been for the unwavering support and loyalty of our readers, advertisers, partners and talented team of contributors to see us through every trying day of keeping production levels high while balancing higher payouts. Every word of encouragement we have received, every compliment and every criticism has spurred us on to keep going – on shoestring budgets and skeletal staff, but with oodles of energy and creativity to get here!

Thank you for your support. We will need ever so much of it to see us through to the next 100!

Wishing each one of you an interesting year ahead.

Sudha Nair-Iliades

Publisher - Editor Sudha Nair - Iliades Art Director Eliza Mouzenidou Client Relations Eleni Setta Photos Angelos Giotopoulos, Marq Riley, Christina Anid Web Design www.studiozip.com

Contributors in this Issue Christina Anid, Katie Prentiss, Marq Riley, Mike Sweet, Nick Malkoutzis, Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou Sophia Velissaridis, Christina Tsiliakou, Interns Katie Prentiss, Rosie Belpaso, Dana Horowitz, Founder Steve Pantazopoulos Legal Counsel Christos Christopoulos Prepress, Montage and Printing Ellinoektipotiki

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insider athens | December 2011 1

contributors Nick Malkoutzis

Deputy-editor of Kathimerini English Edition and Athens Plus, Nick moved to Greece from London in 2003 after spending part of his childhood in Athens. He has worked for the BBC and the Associated Press and jointly set up Archon Media. Nick has a passion for sports and tries to satisfy this by playing 5-a-side football every week.

Journalist and photographer, Christina Anid has travelled all around the world to write about and photograph travel destinations. Over the years, she has also specialized in cultural and environmental matters. Multi-cultural and multidisciplinary, she hails from Lebanon, Greece and France and her activities range from journalism, jewellery design and collage making.

Eleni Setta

After having studied graphic arts and interior design, Eleni worked for the last 23 years as a graphic designer in the Marketing departments of multinationals and publishing companies. Fluent in English and Greek (and learning Italian), Eleni is a fanatic cinephile, nature lover, eco-warrior and adores cooking and fashion. When not working at Insider as Clients Relations Manager, she loves going for long walks with her 3 dogs and indulges in a bit of singing.

A documentary producer for the BBC Television in the 1990s, Mike worked in broadcasting in South Asia before relocating to Australia in 2002, where he established his TV production business. A correspondent for the English language edition of Australia’s largest circulation Greek newspaper Neos Kosmos, Mike combines his writing with producing independent documentary films. Having lived in Athens since 2007, Mike has now relocated to Melbourne and continues contributing to Insider from Down Under.

Katie Prentiss

2 insider athens | December 2011

Cordelia Madden Kanellopoulou

Born in Australia, Angelos is currently based in Europe working as a freelance photographer. He is the co-founder of Falcon Photo Agency (www.falconphotoagency.com) which specializes in documentary, conceptual and travel reportage. His photographs and texts have been published in magazines such as Italy’s Travel Panorama, Australian Traveller and Time Magazine, as well as in various Greek publications

Marq was born in The Netherlands, where he graduated as a theatre director from the Utrecht School of Arts.

He moved to Greece in 1999, working as a music events organiser. He is now a freelance writer, and as a concert photographer covers a wide selection of festivals and shows.

Eliza Mouzenidou

Mike Sweet

Katie Prentiss is a journalism student at Northwestern University in Chicago. Following her love of the classics and her Greek heritage, she is spending a semester studying abroad in Athens. She enjoys learning journalism, and hopes to eventually make documentary films. She spent last winter making her first documentary about refugees in Chicago, which was shown at a small film festival in the United States.

Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou is a freelance journalist based in Athens since 1999. She has written for publications ranging from the Athens News to Marie Claire Australia and the South China Morning Post, and was editor of Insider between 2008 and 2010. She contributed the lifestyle sections of the Time Out and Dorling Kindersley guides to Athens, and her own guidebook, Shopping in Athens, was published in 2004. She lives in Athens with her husband and three cats, and spends her spare time running marathons and trying to improve the lives of street cats through the charity www.ninelivesgreece.com. Cordelia is currently Brand Ambassador for Kiehl’s.

Angelos Giotopoulos

Christina Anid

Marq Riley

Eliza was born and raised in Athens. She studied Technology of Graphic Arts and graduated with the highest GPA amongst her colleagues. For the last four years she has been working as a graphic designer and has attended numerous seminars on the subject. Her true passion is photography and during her free time she enjoys playing tennis.

contents

14 16 20

Features

Departments

Earnest compositions 12 Claire Tsalouchidi-Hadjimina captures the age of innocence

Being a hundred means...

38 The Insider team looks back on what a 100 issues really mean

Greece: Beyond the headlines 14 Minister of Culture and Tourism Mr. Pavlos Geroulanos on promoting the real Greece

Inside Out, Upside Down and Round and Round Katie Prentiss tracks down the history of the magazine from its initial days as Inside Out to its 100th issue

Weaving a thread of hope 18 Mike Sweet in conversation with Victoria Hislop, author of the best-selling The Island on her new book, The Thread More than a decadent decade 20 Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou, who has been involved with Insider since its inception looks back on Athens’ makeover The end of an affair 30 Nick Malkoutzis on the souring of Greece’s affair with the euro and the giant question mark that looms over the currency’s fate Words worth a thousand images 34 Excerpts from some of the responses we received from our readers, facebook friends and twitter followers on Insider’s 100th issue

Arts and Events Art

4 10

40

Wishes we hold dear 44 Insider’s clients wish the magazine on its 10 year anniversary Gift Guide 48 Insider draws up a list of goodies to bring some affordable cheer Hidden sanctuaries 52 Christina Anid unravels verdant escapes in the city centre for hearty Sunday lunches and quiet evenings Its been good knowing you 88 Celebrities who have graced the pages of Insider over the years – from Jean-Paul Gaultier to Diane von Furstenberg to Chef Nobu and several other eminent personalities.

Its been a privilege.

In Good Company 14 Society

16

Books

20

Talking point

30

Time Lapse

48

Agora

50

Secret Gardens

60

Gastronomy

64

Kaleidoscope

88

24 38 40 44 50 Cover picture: Insider covers

insider athens | December 2011 3

Arts & events

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For location details see listings on page 79

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Gallery Kappatos

The Breeder

3rd Biennial of Athens

Gagosian Gallery

Vasilis Salpistis 01 A native of Thessaloniki who studied at the Institute of Fine Arts in St. Etienne, Salpistis explores the relationship between contemporary concerns about the status of the image and the inherent instability that characterize them. The exhibition includes paintings and video works. www.kappatosgallery.com

Vangelis Vlahos, No event for Monday, Feb. 15, 1999 The work of Vangelis Vlahos, through collections of found material, engages with the recent history of Greece, endeavoring to de-center official narratives and open up potential new ones. For his second solo show at the gallery the artist presents three new projects, two of which focus on the capture of the founder of the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK) Abdullah Ocalan, and its impact on the Greek domestic affairs of the time. Vangelis Vlahos’ work draws attention to the way we understand the past. His work is concerned less with re-narrating the history of these events than with examining their impact from today’s point of view. http://www.thebreedersystem.com

Monodromos The third Biennale of Athens revolves around an unlikely encounter: that of the Little Prince and the German intellectual Walter Benjamin. At a time when Athens and Greece are at the epicenter of an earthquake with social and economic shocks becoming more violent, the Biennial is a study of current sociopolitical and economic events through a humane and poetic narrative. www.athensbiennial.org

Anselm Reyle: Meissen Broken Acropolis 02 The Gagosian Athens presents Anselm Reyle’s Meissen Broken Acropolis. For over 2000 years the Acropolis ruins have stood the test of time. Anselm Reyle creates a direct connection to the city with this exhibition.

Reyle’s work is also characterized by the repeated use of particular objects, debris and the remains of a repertoire which is the basic structure for his compositions, especially in collage. Reyle has presented a solo exhibition of sculptures and paintings at Kunsthalle Zurich and has participated in many international group exhibitions including those of the Tate Modern in London and the Palazzo Grassi in Venice. www.gagosian.com

4 insider athens | December 2011

Ίδρυμα ΕΊκαστΊκών τΕχνών καΊ μουσΊκήσ Β & μ ΘΕοχαρακή B & M THEOCHARAKIS FOUNDATION FOR THE FINE ARTS AND MUSIC

Μεγάλοι Ρώσοι Ζωγράφοι 1920-2010 από τη Συλλογή Manege στην Αγία Πετρούπολη

Great Russian Painters 1920-2010 from Manege Collection in Saint Petersburg 15/12/2011 - 11/3/2012 Ίδρυμα Εικαστικών Τεχνών και Μουσικής Β. & Μ. Θεοχαράκη • Βασ. Σοφίας 9 & Μέρλιν 1, Αθήνα B. & M. Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts and Music • 9, Vas. Sofias Av. & 1, Merlin Str., Athens T: (+30)-210-3611206

•

www.thf.gr

Ώρες Λειτουργίας: Δευτέρα, Τρίτη, Τετάρτη, Σάββατο, Κυριακή: 10:00 - 18:00, Πέμπτη, Παρασκευή: 10:00 - 20:00 Opening Hours: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Saturday, Sunday: 10:00 - 18:00, Thursday, Friday: 10:00 - 20:00 Υπό την αιγίδα της Α.Ε., του Πρέσβη της Ρωσικής Δημοκρατίας στην Ελλάδα, κ. Vladimir I. Chkhikvishvili Under the auspices of H.E., the Ambassador of the Russian Republic in Greece, Mr. Vladimir I. Chkhikvishvili

Χορηγοί Επικοινωνίας / Communication Sponsors FLASH96 Τ Ο Δ Ι Κ Ο Σ Ο Υ ΡΑ Δ Ι Ο Φ Ω Ν Ο

Arts & events

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17 december

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21 2022 29 until

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Kappatos Gallery Athens

Pallas Theater

Technopolis

Vasilis Salpistis The exhibition includes paintings and works of large videos.

Salpitsis’ work explores the potential reactivation of the painting medium through its interaction with contemporary concerns relating to the status of the picture, painting or not, the identification of mechanisms and inherent instability that characterizes them. www.kappatosgallery.com

Night of the Navire Marguerite Duras with Fanny Ardant 03 Each night in Paris, hundreds of men and women use the anonymity of telephone lines dating back to the days of the German occupation, to speak of love.

These survivors of love and desire are brilliantly captured in Marguerite Duras’ play with Fanny Ardant delivering a stellar performance. www.ellthea.gr

The shortest days, documentaries Technopolis, the French Institute, the Drama Festival, radio station Athens 9.84 present selected short films from France, Europe and the US. The screenings are aptly titled the shortest days as they coincide with the shortest days of the year, just ahead of Christmas. Awardwinning films will be creened at Yannis Ritsos Auditorium of Athens 9.84 at Pireos100 in Gazi, at the French Institute of Athens at Sina 31 and in Drama, the screenings will take place at the auditorium of the Municipal Conservatory of Drama. www.technopolis-athens.com

6 insider athens | December 2011

december

Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Best of: Highlights in Jewellery and Couture 04, 05 The best of the permanent collections of the Lalaounis Museum and the Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation are brought together in an exhibition structured as a visual dialogue between jewelry and couture.

Jewels from 50 collections created by Ilias Lalaounis and the Lalaounis house between 1947 and 2008 are presented alongside selected highlights from the extensive costume collections of the PFF. Through a display that addresses fashion as evidence of material culture, the exhibition challenges distinctions between high art and low art, elitist and mass culture, the contemporary and ‘the classic’ as well as between ‘eastern’ and ‘western’ forms and styles. www.lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr

On the town

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Megaron Mousikis

French Institute

Art & Culture Wishes

Swan lake 06 Book early to relive the magic of one of the most-loved ballets of all-time: Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake. Twenty two performances with stellar performances by stars from Covent Garden, the Kremlin Ballet, the English National Ballet, the Mariinsky Ballet and the American Ballet Theatre, the Megaron offers a great way to spend Christmas with the family. Afternoon shows start at 4p.m. and evening shows start at 8 p.m. www.megaron.gr

Journey to the East 07 The Le Corbusier Foundation holds three conferences in three major cities that the renowned architect, Le Corbusier visited in his early years: Istanbul, Athens and Naples. Through these meetings, the Foundation highlights how these cities, landscapes and cultures influenced the architect’s sensibilities and approach to architecture.

The young Le Corbusier’s first encounter with the Acropolis in September 1911 was explosive.

To his eyes, the pure forms and clean lines of ancient Greek monuments confirmed his classical vision, but also held the promise ofradical modernity. www.ifa.gr

Athens International Airport The cultural organizations that the Athens International Airport has collaborated with throughout the years are participating in “Art & Culture Wishes”, a cultural initiative with a “Voyage” theme accompanied by wishes for the airport’s 10th anniversary. Participants include the Foundation of the Hellenic World, the Museum of Greek Folk Art, the Benaki Museum, the Goulandris Natural History Museum, the George Zongolopoulos Foundation, the Museum of Greek Children’s Art, the Byzantine and Christian Museum, the Herakleidon Museum, the Museum of the Hellenic Nobel Collection, Militos Editions, the Onassis Cultural Centre and the B&M Theocharakis Foundation. www.aia.gr/aia10years

until

31 december

Museum of Jewelry Ilias Lalaounis Nine young artists 08 In the second part of its tribute to contemporary jewellery, the Ilias Lalounis museum presents creations designed by nine young jewelers representing nine countries and five continents, providing a global perspective on contemporary design.

These young artists push spectators to pose universal questions such as the notion of memory, hidden emotions, the need for self understanding and the distinction between substance and form through jewellery. www.lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr

insider athens | December 2011 7

Arts & events

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10

2102 05 until

january

Parnassos Literary Society Christmas Concerts The Music Department of the Parnassos Literary Society presents a rich repertoire of compositions by Brahms, Schumann and Bruch for the festive season. Young, award-winning Greek and foreign musicians such as Spanish clarinetist Jose Franch-Ballester and Ali Basegmezler on the viola peform alongside Greek soloists in a series of concerts starting from December 21 to January 2. www.specsnarts.gr

8 insider athens | December 2011

january

11

until

08 january

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10 january

Bernier-Eliades Gallery

Theatre Apo Michanis

Megaron Mousikis

Christmas Group Exhibition 09, 10 Bernier/Eliades Gallery presents a new group show of major works of the prominent artists Pier Paolo Calzolari, Jannis Kounellis, Konrad Lueg, Marisa Merz, Sigmar Polke, Thomas Schütte and Keith Sonnier, sculptures by Lionel Estève, Jim Shaw, Franz West and Dionysis Kavallieratos, photographs by Walead Beshty and Katerina Zacharopoulou and drawings by Nikos Navridis, Raymond Pettibon, Christiana Soulou, Kara Walker and Robert Wilson. www.bernier-eliades.gr

Tuesday at Monoprix A contemporary French play translated into Greek and directed by Katerina Berdeka, Tuesday at Monoprix is a touching and funny tribute to the loneliness of a transvestite. Awarded at this year’s Edinburgh Fringe Festival and nominated three times at the Molières 2011awards in France, the play is a poignant monologue of a man, a transvestite who no longer wishes to hide who he is. Jean-Pierre becomes Marie-Pierre – and returns to his childhood home after several years, on hearing of the death of his mother, to keep his father company. But then it means learning to cope with the disapproving looks of the village community as he goes grocery shopping at the local supermarket on Tuesdays.

Panayiotis Tetsis 11 Artist, teacher and academician Panayiotis Tetsis presents works that date back to his earlier period and lesser known works from his personal collection as well as from private collections in a retrospective on the artist’s life and works. www.megaron.gr

Christmas Tea Party

This year, decorate your Christmas Tree with friends at a Tea Party

mo n a n n i c e l tea s A pp a m t s i r Ch flavoured small saucepan Preparation: In a any cups as your add water (as m d k of cinnamon an guests) with 1 stic boiled, remove 4-5 cloves. Once s as many pyramid spices and add e nnamon tea as th of Lipton apple-ci e u want to fill. Leav number of cups yo e their aroma for pyramids to releas y, if stir in a bit of hone d an es ut in m -4 3 en a sweeter. For ev you’d like your te d some slices of more flavour, ad and tea into a teapot apple. Empty the ones! serve your loved

Tea loves chocolate Chocolate fondue is an ideal treat with Christmas apple cinnamon tea.

Melt 200 gr of dark chocolate, 2 table -spoons of Vitam, 1 teaspoon honey and a little bit of cognac. Dip cookies and fresh or dried fruit.

A party of wishes Remember! Each guest should hang a decoration and make a wish.

Arts & events

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15 january

14

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29 january

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15 1210 february

march

Institute of the Hellenic World

Herakleidon Museum

Onassis Cultural Centre

Jonathan Meese

Myths and Monsters Do monsters really exist? Are they just creations of fantasy?

Why does man create such forms? The exhibition on loan from the Natural History Museum in London will show at the Institute of the Hellenic World until January 15. www.hellenic-cosmos.gr

Sol LeWitt Line and Colour Photo credit: © 2011 The LeWitt Estate / ARS (Artists Rights Society, N.Y) OSDEETE, Athens 12 The exhibition comprises 15 works by Sol LeWitt - mainly prints (such as lithographs, etchings, and woodcuts), but also his first oil painting as well as gouache, monotypes and photographs. The artist’s works are known for their geometric shapes and rich colours. He became known in the late 1960s for his wall drawings and his sculptures or “structures” as he called them.

He is considered by many to be the father of Conceptual Art. His works are in the permanent collections of many major museums all over the world and is also installed in public parks and buildings. www.herakleidon-art.gr

Robert Mapplethorpe 13 The Onassis Cultural Center devotes an exhibition to the celebrated American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe in collaboration with the Mapplethorpe Foundation in New York.

Known for his black and white portraits and male nudes, the photographer was also a portrait specialist and had a particular fondness for extreme closeups of flowers. The hundred works on display at the Onassis Cultural centre represent these three loves. Headlining the American avant-garde movement, the artist lived life at a hundred miles an hour.

Two documentaries broadcast in conjunction with the exhibition, reflect his fascinating life and his prolific career as a photographer. www.sgt.gr

Marquis d’Octan 14 Tokyo born Meese combines photography, paintings, impasto and collage techniques to create compelling images. Having playfully ‘distorted’ images of Stalin, Hitler and Mussolini amongst others, Meeses’ emblematic works form part of the permanent collections of the Pompidou Center in Paris, the MoMA in New York and the Tate Modern in London. www.bernier-eliades.gr

10 insider athens | December 2011

Art

The Importance of being earnest On the eve of her group exhibition at the Argo Gallery, Claire Hadjimina-Tsalouchidi talks to Insider about her unorthodox route into painting, her inspirations and philanthropical aspirations

F

or someone with such a vibrant personality as Claire, her paintings are understated works in pastels. Her first solo exhibition at the very quaint Argo Gallery two years ago proved to be the beginning of an interesting tryst with her creative destiny. Her paintings then seemed to dwell on two of her favourite themes – miniature olive trees in all their glory with twisted trunks, dwarfed by the elements, but resilient, strong and life-giving, painted against brilliantly hued backdrops in vermillion and midnight blue…and the views of the Acropolis that she enjoys from her roof terrace. “When we moved to our new house, facing the Acropolis, I knew I would play with the view from the small studio on the terrace.” Claire says. It is these pastel pieces illustrating her view of the Acropolis and its surroundings that were featured in her first ever solo show at the Argo Gallery in 2009.

Now her works also reflect more quotidian concerns that she encounters in her neighbourhood – abandoned strays. Claire not only enjoys capturing her new four-legged subjects with their irresistably droopy eyelids but has actually created a series where they even resemble well-known personalities. Her favourite is the Oscar Wilde look-alike – the dog not only has the same irreverential air as the playwright but their mutual physiognomical characteristics are hard to ignore!

Claire had an unorthodox route into the world of art. Her studies had nothing to do with art; she studied Political Science at the University of Athens. But she always knew deep down that art was an inherent part of her life. “I loved art, and was always involved in anything artistic and always surrounded by artists, but it never occurred to me that I could become one of them; even though I always felt it was my natural environment,”she admits. She is happy and content with the way things have turned out for her as an artist – a feeling she eloquently expresses through her brightly coloured, often tranquil pastel pieces. “I want people to feel pleasure when they look at my paintings. If possible the same pleasure I had at the moment my eyes chose to focus on the scenery around me,” she admits.“ Our life is constantly changing - and not necessarily for the best. But some things remain beautifully intact for those who can still appreciate them.”

Claire lived in London and Brussels before moving to Athens in 1987. Before returning to Greece she took a short course in the History of Art at Sotheby’s and then, once in Athens, she worked for Stavros Michalarias, which was “a great experience in many ways - there were auctions, exhibitions, and conservation classes,”she remembers. “But something was missing.

A couple of years later an artist friend asked me to help him copy one of his works, and I lost myself in the procedure. It felt wonderful - I just wanted to be in the studio holding a piece of charcoal, pastel, a brush, anything!” That was the beginning of Claire’s artistic career and since then she has had ample opportunity to develop and explore her creativity.

Claire Hadjimina-Tsalouchidi’s works will be showing at the Argo Gallery, between December 13 and January 13.

See www.argo-gallery.gr for more information.

12 insider athens | December 2011

NEW HOLMES PLACE CLUB IN GLYFADA

JOIN THE CLUB!

Fitness enthusiasts and wellness fans in the Southern suburbs have been waiting for it for quite a while. Holmes Place Glyfada will be opening its doors to welcome its new members in late March, 2012. The modern building on 83 Lampraki Str., in Glyfada will become the ultimate wellness destination for those who choose wellness as a way of of life.

The strict, high standards under which Holmes Place Glyfada was created and the luxurious feel of its facilities, make it one of the most premium Holmes Place Clubs internationally.

Holmes Place Glyfada is housed in an ultramodern, spacious area of 3,400 sqm featuring: • Heated 25-meter pool with Aqua programs and kids’ swimming programs • Jacuzzi & Relaxation Area • Spacious Gym Area with sea view, equipped with the latest cardiovascular machines (treadmills, bikes, rowing, glidex and wave), state of the art equipment for resistance training and free weights • 4 group fitness Studios: Spinning, Pilates, Aerobic, Holistic • Small Group Training (TRX ®, Bosu, Kinesis, Power Plate) in a designated area with special equipment • Nutrition Center • Spacious and luxurious changing rooms • Sauna & hammam • Spa • Indoor & Outdoor Café-Restaurant • Roof Garden for chill out drinks • Parking There is no doubt that Holmes Place Glyfada will be a pleasant surprise and a major attraction for those who live or work in the Southern suburbs of Athens. For those who choose a healthy lifestyle and want to discover the philosophy that distinguishes Holmes Place and its members: move well, eat well, feel well… one life.live it well, Holmes Place Glyfada will provide inspiration to integrate all 3 elements in their daily life and to ultimately gain a better quality of life!

Contact Holmes Place Glyfada today at www.holmesplace.gr, become a founder member and enjoy special membership prices, as well as, many additional privileges, one of which is full access to all Holmes Place Clubs abroad.

Holmes Place Glyfada 83 Gr. Lampraki Str., 166 75 Glyfada Opening Hours: Monday to Friday: 9:00a.m.– 9:00p.m.

Saturday: 10:00a.m. – 6:00p.m.

E-mail: glyfada@holmesplace.gr or visit www.holmesplace.gr

Greece: Beyond the headlines Sudha Nair-Iliades meets the Minister of Tourism and Culture, Mr. Pavlos Geroulanos at the World Travel Market in London on a particularly trying Monday morning, when Greece found itself without a government and with very little credibility. Selling Greece as a utopic tourist destination that week would have seemed daunting to anyone, but Greek tour operators and tourism officials were out there in full force, putting on a brave image. Mr. Geroulanos, whose own political fate was at stake, was reassuringly calm and confident, as he shared his own optimism about Greece’s future and wished Insider on its 100th issue.

How does one sell Greece at a time like this?

Selling Greece is a dream job. What makes Greece special is that it is such a beautiful adventure. Over the years, we have employed different images, different tag lines to tell the story but at the end of the day it is the experience you have here – the people, the values they represent and the imagery that stays with one long after - that is the real story. One thing I have noticed is that even with the strikes, people are trying to find out about Greece. The real Greece. Beyond the headlines.

What strategies have the Ministry of Tourism and the Greek National Tourism Organisation employed to promote Greek tourism?

Well, tourism accounts for around 18 percent of our GDP and if you include indirect effects, the impact on the economy is huge. We have had a record year last year with 16.5 million tourists visiting. Our strategy is focussed on markets, not on products. Despite the crisis, we had a 180 % increase in tourists from Turkey and Russia, 120 % increase in tourists from Israel and a 70% increase in tourists from China and Serbia. Our approach is three-fold: to increase tourist arrivals from our traditional markets - the UK and Germany, to reach out to new markets and to introduce Greece to long-haul markets such as India, China and Latin America.

The most important thing we’re doing is that we have a very targetted approach to who we speak to and that is why social media is very important to us. What we try to look for are signals as to what every particular market wants to do. One of the things we did was a TV spot we created in Russia – it was more effective through the internet than through any other media. Potential tourists viewed it online and because it was in Russian, by Russians who had come to Greece, the impact was immediate. What we have also done is to co-operate with Egypt, Turkey, Israel and Italy to combine destinations – especially for long-haul visitors.

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Have you been happy with the success at the WTM so far?

Yes, the stand seems packed. The information I have had from the people in the industry is positive and I’d like to keep the positive attitude in the coming year and build on the momentum we have had in the past year towards new growth. The design of the stand this year, is very flexible, very modular – we want the world to see Greece through our stand as a transparent place where people work hard to bring business to Greece. We want the stand to be a place for tour operators, airline companies, etc to be together in one place to cross-promote each other and to exchange information.

Any message for Greco-skeptics?

This is reminiscent of the time before the Olympic Games. No one could have imagined by reading the journalists of the time that the smallest country to take them on would hold the best Olympic Games in history. But this is what happened. Because we all worked together, set common goals and believed in our strengths. Greece is going through a completely new period and we’d like the world to see all that Greece has to offer.

What would you like to say to Insider on its 10 year, 100 issue anniversary?

Athens is a city with a tremendous amount of hidden treasures. Insider has been part of the new creativity in the city that has simply been phenomenal in the past ten years. This magazine has always been committed to discovering hidden gems and latent talents and passed them on to a wider audience. It is proven that in every city, every destination, the sum of the lesser attractive parts is always less than the sum of the awe-inspiring, beautiful parts. Insider manages to show the gritty side of Athens with empathy and its beauty and creativity with committed passion, month after month.

In good company

TCDL

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Indonesian Food Festival and Batik Fashion Show

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Insider organised a four day Indonesian Food Festival and Batik Fashion Show in collaboration with the Indonesian Embassy, Travel Plan, Athens Ledra Marriott Hotel and Qatar Airways. The festival kicked off with a spectacular fashion show while artisans showcased Indonesia’s rich heritage in mask-making and embroidery.

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Seen here in pictures: 1. All the sponsors of the event, Sudha Nair-Iliades of Insider, the Indonesian Ambassador, Mr. Ahmad Rusdi, Mr. Detlef Winter of the Athens Ledra Marriott, Mr. Alexandros Michalopoulos of Qatar Airways and Mr. Nikos Bolias, General Manager of Travel Plan 2. The Argentinian Ambassador, Mr. Jorge Mastropietro with Mr. Alexandros Michalopoulos 3.

Mr. Halawani, PR Director of CCC, seen here with Ambassador Mr. Abdel El Ansari of Morocco with his wife, Khadija (the winners of the lucky draw for two tickets to Bali and a three night stay at a five star resort in Bali) 4. An artisan demonstrating Indonesia’s rich embroidery 5. Mr. Detlef Winter, with the Indonesia Ambassador and his wife, Anita 6. Welcome drinks for everyone and 7, 8, 9 and 10. Contemporary designs by Afif Syakur 11. This awe-inspiring figure welcomed guests at the hugely successful Indonesian Food Festival which concluded at the Zephyros restaurant on December 4.

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The Indian Embassy organized a painting exhibition for school children at St Catherine’s British Embassy School to coincide with Children’s Day in India.

The winning entries were as follows: 1. Besi Areti-Angeliki, Untitled 2. Tess Poulimenakou, Tender Teardrop 3. Nicole Slysaryeva, Girl with the Pearl Earing 4. Mara De Meis, Flowers On Board 5. Fay Baxevanis, Amywinehouse Pop Art 6. Kay Megapanou, I Dream 7. Daniel Garcia, Dark Night 8. Aris Protopapas, Abstract Reality 9. Lemuel Hernandey, My Dream Ship 10. Demie Gomez, The Landforms (Plateau) 11. Antonio Campen, Way Back Home 12. Alexcy Jayasundara, Fishing on a Stick

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Books

Weaving a thread of hope Victoria Hislop’s 2005 novel “The Island” was translated into more than twenty languages and topped best-seller lists in the UK, Greece and beyond. Its adaptation into the phenomenally successful 26-part series “To Nisi” for Greek television confirmed her place as one of the most popular storytellers of Greece’s 20th century history.

Last month her eagerly-awaited new novel “The Thread” was published.

Mike Sweet talks to the most popular author writing about Greece today.

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fter a career in PR and journalism, Victoria Hislop published her first novel The Island in her mid 40s. A multi-generational saga set against the backdrop of the Spinalonga leper colony in Crete, The Island was by any measure, a publishing sensation.

Her new novel The Thread is a romantic saga entwined with the turbulent 20th Century history of Thessaloniki, and it continues to reflect a love affair with Greece that is as deep and passionate as that felt by any non-Greek author writing today.

“Yes, the truth is, I think I’m obsessed with Greece,” says Victoria, who I’ve managed to catch before she heads to Athens from London for the Greek launch of The Thread.

Today, Greece is Victoria’s second home. She owns a family house on Crete (near Aghios Nikalaos) and speaks Greek fluently.

Her three-week tour of Greek cities will promote the new novel and its ts launch in Thessaloniki will be the most poignant: The Thread is a homage to that city and its citizens, and their desperate story that unravelled in the first half of the last century.

The new book is Hislop’s most ambitious to date. In both its historical

scope and in terms of its small ‘p’ political, as well as romantic narrative, it interweaves the lives of its characters into the backcloth of Greek history over three generations.

The Thread touches on deep and sensitive themes: the effects of the Asia Minor ‘Great Catastrophe’, anti-semitism and the Civil War. As in The Island, Hislop partly tells the story through the voice of the family today, travelling through time, connecting the past with the present.

In the first chapters of The Thread the reader is transported to Thessaloniki harbour in May 1923.

A teeming mass of Greek refugees from Turkey pours from a ship, newly swapped for Greece’s Muslim population. It is one scene of one of the most painful exchanges of peoples ever conceived.

Among them is five-year-old Katerina Sarafoglou. Separated from her mother in their flight from Smyrna, Katerina is adopted by Eugenia, another refugee. When they are allocated a new home, whose previous occupants have been driven out, Dimitris Komninos, the son of a rich, authoritarian merchant, is among their new neighbours.

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The eventual relationship between seamstress Katerina and Dimitri who becomes a Partisan, forms the backbone of The Thread. Beside the lovers’ narrative, the tortuous story of Thessaloniki is drawn out through the experience of the two families and their friends - Christian, Jewish, and Muslim.

“It is a homage to the city,” says Hislop, who first visited Thessaloniki five years ago when was invited by the University to talk about The Island. “I fell in love with the place.”

Reading about the population exchange convinced the author that the subject would be the starting point for a new novel.

“I hadn’t realised what a huge impact this exchange had on Greece.

I thought if I didn’t know about this, then most who read my books also don’t know.”

One of Hislop’s favourite pastimes on her visits to the city was to sit in a Niki street café and look across the water to Mount Olympus. It was here that the two main characters in The Thread first appeared to her.

“I’m very aware of the different stature, different style of older people in Mediteranean countries. They’re always much smaller: always frail but also strong.

“I was sitting drinking my lovely coffee, and there was a particular elderly couple on the seafront that I watched surreptitiously, if anything, they’re the inspiration for Dimitri and Katerina.”

Given the success of The Island and To Nisi, and the added dimension and scope of The Thread, the new novel promises to elevate Hislop

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Books

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further as an internationally acclaimed author. Her storytelling, as has been proved by the remarkable To Nisi production, can also be transferred to the screen with huge commercial potential.

One thing is clear when talking to Victoria: her passion and empathy for Greece is not something shallow and cosmetic, and far from a commercial convenience.

Hislop was recently approached by a large British film company who wished to make the The Island into a major feature film. But the discerning author isn’t about to agree to just any invitation, however financially appealing.

Horrified to hear that Greek schools’ budgets had been so severely cut, that there was no budget this term for books, Victoria is doing something about it.

“I sat there finding myself saying, ‘no I’m not really interested at the moment’,” says Hislop, “because I don’t think at the moment anything can be better than the To Nisi production. I don’t want to rush into something else.”

Hislop describes the reaction in Greece to To Nisi overwhelming, but that she wasn’t surprised by the audience’s reaction.

“I knew from the first day of filming that it was going to be something out of the ordinary. It had the best actors, the director Theodoris Papadoulakis is immensely talented, and it had the most amazing music and costumes. It’s ecstatic reception was deserved” Talking about The Thread, Victoria says that although she consciously avoided reflecting on Greece’s current crisis and its repercussions, the story nevertheless has some underlying connections.

“I had emails from teachers in schools, people I’d probably met at signings saying we’ve come back to school and the kids just have a note book. To me it’s like hearing they’re not eating properly, they’re being mentally starved,” says Victoria.

As well as donating her own works, she has now embarked on a campaign to persuade fellow authors who are being published in Greek, and their publishers, to donate quantities of their books directly to the schools.

“I’ve got two other British writers on board so far,” says Victoria,“Giles Milton who wrote the very successful book on Smyrna, Paradise Lost and Anthony Horowitz, the children’s novelist. They too are very fond of Greece.”

“I don’t know where it’s going to go at the moment, it’s just in the early stages. I’d like it to snowball. I really want to do something, and this is an area where maybe I can help.”

“I hope people will read it and think ‘gosh this tiny country has had a very rough time, and very often it’s not the fault of the people’.

Plainly, Victoria Hislop’s actions speak as loudly as her words.

“There is a link with now, a kind of a continuum of catastrophe that leads right up to the present day.”

The Thread by Victoria Hilsop is published in Greek by Dioptra and in English by Headline Review.

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Not just a decade of decadence Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou, writer/editor and currently brand ambassador for Kiehl’s cosmetics, moved to Athens shortly before Insider launched its first issue. Here, she picks out a varied and subjective list of ten improvements that have transformed Greece’s capital in the ensuing decade

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Digging for victory!

The Athens metro system is the envy of other European capitals which grimfacedly endure Victorian-era lines stuttering claustrophobically through graffitibesplattered stations. Sleek, spotless, spacious halls featuring nonchalant arrangements of priceless antiquities and modern artworks seem more like exhibition spaces, their function only made apparent by the silver trains swishing in to-schedule every few minutes (well, except when the personnel are on strike). It slices below the gridlocked traffic that seethes on the surface; it’s clean, attractive, safe, and efficient. And, what’s more, it’s cheap, compared to the equivalent (if you can call them that) networks in other capitals. Within 11 years, it has grown to 51 kilometres of line that link up the airport, the city’s business and residential hubs, the key tourist attractions and much more.

Unsurprisingly, more than 700,000 people daily opt for the speed, efficiency and stress-relief (no traffic jams, no parking woes) of the metro, visibly diminishing Athens’ famous mustard-tinged ‘nefos’ pollution, and that number will soar as the metro extends its reach, with extensions planned in the next few years to Piraeus (via the populous western suburbs), Elliniko in the south, and Filothei, Maroussi and Galatsi in the north.

A walk in the past It seems hardly conceivable now to think that less than a decade ago, Dionysiou Areopagitou/Apostolou Pavlou was a busy thoroughfare along which lorries rumbled towards the National Road, coaches thrummed patiently while their passengers ascended towards the ethereal (if exhaust-wreathed) columns of the Parthenon, theatre-goers frustratedly double- and triple-parked on Irodion nights, and night-clubbers raced through the dawn to or from the mega-clubs of Ermou and Pireos streets.

Now, of course, all that happens on the parallel street (I wish I were joking), while Dionysiou Areopagitou/Apostolou Pavlou has been turned into a cobbled promenade that strides elegantly alongside the Acropolis rock, offering peerless views of the Parthenon, the verdant swathe of Philopappos Hill, and the multimillion euro properties that flank the walkway. As popular among Athenian residents as tourists, it offers a rare and much-needed expanse for strolling, jogging, dog-walking, letting toddlers toddle, and just generally enjoying the novelty of wandering along a stretch of concrete unimpeded by parked cars, beeping mopeds, kiosks, rubbish bins, piles of rubbish bags that don’t fit in the bins, pot-holes, entrance steps to a building that just slightly ‘improved upon’ its allotted square-footage, etcetera.

Going the extra mile When the ‘δεν πληρωνω ‘ (I won’t pay) brigade got going, the media was full of images of self-righteous drivers shoving the barriers to the Attiki Odos aside and revving through without paying. I even caught the live version a couple of times.

While I can sympathise with those who find 2.80 euros a bit steep – (however, there are other routes) – in my view, the Attiki Odos toll-road is that rare example of a public project where you can clearly see how your money is being spent. The lines are freshly painted, the verges free of litter, the display boards inform you about what lies ahead, the staff are almost unfailingly polite and helpful, whether you are asking which exit you should take or being rescued by the emergency van that trawls along looking out for those of us whose cars have decided that a working gearbox is a luxury, not a necessity.

And, above all, in my view, if you see an animal on the road, you call up the magic number 1866 and they actually rescue it! I have rung in having encountered bewildered dogs galloping down the fast lane, and kittens floundering desperately across three lanes of traffic; my husband has witnessed electronic warnings, a diversion, flickering lights and an emergency van, all in aid of a tiny kitten in the process of being rescued from certain death, and at the Attiko Nosokomeio Zoon, I have met injured cats and dogs rescued by the Attiki Odos team, being treated and rehabilitated. All of which lead me to my next point:

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Animals matter We’ve all heard that Gandhi comment, about how the greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated, but the Greek government chose largely to ignore it until 2003, when the Olympics were looming and the foreign press broadcast ghoulish stories of streets littered with poisoned animals.

Since then – although of course there is plenty of room for improvement, particularly in terms of law-enforcement – the animal welfare movement here has come on in leaps and bounds. Greece is only the second country in the world to have banned circuses with animals; and Athens is one of few capital cities to run a catchneuter-release scheme for stray dogs, meaning that street canines are not confined to shelters for a certain period until euthanized, but instead are neutered – an essential step in limiting the growth of unwanted stray populations – vaccinated, and put back where they were. Okay, it’s not ideal: there is little provision for puppies, chronically ill or dangerous dogs, city streets are not a pleasant environment for dogs and they are still in danger of an early death, plus there are the associated road accidents, dog-mess, and packs of dogs killing cats and chasing people whose appearance they take against. But it’s more effective, more humane and less costly than any other practical alternative for this country.

Meanwhile, animal welfare groups are constantly growing in number, activity and force – we now have an active Panhellenic Animal Welfare Federation which lobbies the government and advertises on primetime TV, and a quick scan through Facebook gives some idea of the sheer number of individuals and groups working tirelessly to help animals here, from dogs and cats to donkeys and dolphins.

Painting the town green A decade ago, the green movement was seen in Greece as a weird, rather absurd foreign foible. Recycling bins didn’t appear in Athens until 2005, and for the first year were mainly filled with normal household rubbish, so you would open one up to deposit a cardboard box and be greeted with a stench of rotting watermelon skin and fish bones. Now, unless they have been set fire to in a demonstration, almost every street in Athens boasts blue recycling bins, into which you can toss plastic, paper, glass and tins and they are separated and processed at Europe’s biggest recycling plant, right here in Athens.

In 2008, when I used to bicycle to work at Insider, I felt intrepid and, often, foolhardy; since then there has been a surge of pedal power – the price of petrol and the frequency of public transport strikes make self-powered wheels an increasingly attractive prospect; the Freeday bike rides across the city on Friday nights pull in thousands of eager cyclists; a network of no less than 17km of cycle lanes has been created in the northern suburbs, and –theoretically at least – bicycle lanes will also be carved out from Athens University down to the coast.

Further, there has been a boon in eco-friendly home construction over the last decade; hotels and businesses are falling over themselves to win more prizes for their environmental credentials, and tree-planting and clean-up sessions gain large followings, not least those organised by SKAI, a dedicated eco-conscious TV channel.

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10 years 100 issues On the run

Until recently, the annual Athens Classic Marathon race was considered of minor significance, relegated to a small slot on the news where disgruntled Sunday lunchers complained about having their plans derailed by some crazies.

Thankfully, by 2010, the authorities finally twigged that, not only did they hold a unique gem in their hands, but that it was about to celebrate its 2,500th birthday. Participation surged from 3,000 Marathon participants in 2009 up to 12,000 in 2010, and stayed high at 10,000 runners this year, buoyed by enthusiastic reports from last year’s splash.

The Athens Classic Marathon is one-of-a-kind. It’s the original race from which dozens of imitators have spawned. They might be able to boast live rock concerts (the Rock & Roll Marathon series in the US), wine-tasting (the Marathon du Medoc in France), or fast, flat courses where elite runners break records and we amateurs can clock a personal best time (Berlin, Rotterdam). But nowhere else on the globe can market their marathon as the very first place where a 42.2km race against time was run.

Marathon-tourism is big business, a chance to fill Athens’ hotels in the first week of November with runners, their friends and families, who will certainly spend at least one night, but most likely three (they need to attend the expo the previous day to pick up their numbers, and in most cases are too frazzled to face flying home immediately), and who will definitely eat at least one blow-out repast, possibly complete with champagne. For hoteliers and restaurateurs, what’s not to love about that? Here’s hoping that the Athens Classsic Marathon organisers won’t hit the wall, but instead pick up the pace to strive for record-breaking numbers of participants through the next decade and beyond.

Shopping goes up a size When Insider launched, I was asked to prepare a shopping section for each issue. At the time, I was writing a fashion column for the Athens News, and was thrilled to expand into the magazine as well. Now, looking back, I wonder – what on earth did I find to include? Clothes shopping back then in Athens was pretty much a few smoky boutiques with three things brought back in someone’s suitcase from London, a couple of wildly overpriced designer emporia where the staff were so haughty I rarely dared set foot inside, and Zara. Think about it next time you’re strolling down Anagnostopoulou, admiring the come-hither vitrines at Hermes, Prada, Tod’s, Mulberry, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Bulgari (to name but a few), or when you saunter around Kolonaki to browse the new-season’s collections at Lanvin, Balenciaga, Burberry’s, Marc Jacobs or Diane von Furstenburg. Or, perhaps, you are spending the morning at Attica Department Store on Panepistimiou, or at its shimmering counterpart in the upmarket Golden Hall shopping mall in Maroussi. Maybe you have chosen Golden Hall’s more family-oriented bigger brother, The Mall, instead, so that you can break up your shopping time at all the possible permutations of Inditex (Zara, Stradivarius, Oysho, Pull&Bear, Massimo Dutti etc) with a film or a meal, or perhaps you are wandering around the Metro Mall, where high-street clothing and accessories are interspersed with such delights as Cinnabon.

What’s next? A branch of Abercrombie & Fitch? Alexander McQueen? Victoria’s Secret?

Shopping trips to London, Paris, New York and Milan are fast becoming obsolete.

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The art of the matter A few weeks ago, an invitation to a Damien Hirst exhibition at the Benaki Museum plopped into my inbox. I’m not big on art (as you can tell by the fact that this comes in at number 8, below animals, transport, running and shopping). But even a Philistine like me has realised that the Athens art scene has undergone a transformation. Our city boasts a Gagosian Gallery, one of only 12 globally (most of which are in the US), as well as other galleries like The Breeder, Rebecca Camhi and Bernier/Eliades, which may not have the world-renowned name, but attract top-notch international players. Since 2007, Athens hosts a Biennale which draws in artists like Terence Koh who are so famous that even I have heard of them. Gilbert & George have exhibited here, so has the late Cy Twombly. Further, not to concentrate solely on contemporary art, the Greek capital was chosen for the global debut of the original versions of all 74 Degas sculptures. Bearing in mind that one of the world’s most significant art collectors, Dakis Joannou, is Greek (well, Cypriot), expect to see plenty more Jeff Koons, Hirst and other pre-eminent artists coming our way, but also more homegrown talents like Jannis Kounellis and Pavlos being snapped up and introduced to the international art-buying public.

Eat, drink and be merry From the rise of neo-tavernas (see Psomi & Alati, Kuzina, Tzitzikas & Mermigas) and upmarket souvlaki joints (think Kolonaki Kalamaki ) to the advent of eateries with a decent wine list and wines by the glass (like Cucina Povera and Scala Vinoteca), to the opening of first-rate restaurants like Nobu’s Matsuhisa and the excellent New Greek and Twenty-One hotel restaurants (not to mention the upgrade and relocation of Michelin-starred chef Lefteris Lazarou’s Varoulko), the dining scene in Athens has really tweaked its apron in the past decade. It even features a simple but super vegetarian/vegan eatery, Avocado (the top-rated Athens restaurant on Trip Advisor, when I last looked, which must be galling to some of the most chichi affairs), which recently opened near Syntagma. With the Greek version of MasterChef luring record numbers of TV viewers (in all honesty, though, there’s not much else on), and the show’s judges and contestants attaining demi-god celebrity status, loosen your belts, spread your napkins, and get ready to tuck into even more ambrosial offerings.

Home suite home Now that we’re feeling highly ‘indignant’ about any and every ostentatious spending of public money in the past, it is hard to look beyond the derelict hulks of the Olympic venues and remember some of the more positive ways in which cash was spread about in those rushed, dusty, drill-throbbing days before the Athens Olympics in 2004. A case in point is the City of Athens’ Facade programme, a system of subsidies to property-owners for the renovation of their buildings (and, I just learned reading a cached page of their website, the replacement of clusters of individual TV antennae with one central one). According to Athens municipality, more than 4,000 buildings were given a makeover – anything from a lick of paint to complete remodelling of the facade, depending on the depth of the owner’s pockets and location of the house. On certain streets, one example being the lower part of Adrianou, houses were given the full treatment free of charge, just to look nice for the Olympic TV cameras and tourists. Well, we couldn’t have them catching a glimpse of graffiti or peeling paint, now could we? Joking aside, my point is that it helped to bring about not only a quick-fix facial but a lasting, look-no-wrinkles-ever-again facelift to certain parts of central Athens. Because the subsidies were marginally higher for listed buildings, it also helped owners of some of those gorgeous but disintegrating Neoclassical pearls in central Athens get them pulled together and polished. The Facades programme was such a success that the City of Athens continued it for three years, and then managed to persuade the European Union 3rd Community Support Framework to adopt it for a further two. Whether it continues, given the current crisis, looks improbable, but even if the buck stops here, it has achieved a substantial aesthetic upgrade to the capital.

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Greece and the euro: As Insider celebrates its 10th anniversary, that saw a shift from the drachma to

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few weeks ago, I was interviewed by a Danish journalist in front of Parliament. He took out a 2-euro coin, flipped it over and showed me the engraving depicting the mythological story of Europa being whisked off by Zeus, who transformed himself into a bull to achieve the task. It’s a scene that is usually known as the seduction, or even abduction, of Europa. “This coin shows the Rape of Europa,” the journalist said. “Do you think Greece is raping Europe or is Europe raping Greece?”

After picking up my jaw from the floor, I gave an inadequate answer about Europe and Greece having a consensual relationship that was going through a rough patch. “We knew all about each other when we climbed into bed together,” was my final repost to his jarring question. Of course, the truth is that seduction only really works when you don’t know all about each other. And, as we’ve discovered over the last few months, Greece knew little about itself, let alone about Europe, before becoming part of the euro.

Greece’s story over the last 10 years or so has been defined by its relationship with Europe and the currency that the Danish journalist held in his hand. Greece’s entry into the euro, the economic and political developments it gave rise to and the social and cultural changes that followed it have provided the context for the Greek narrative through the last decade and the beginning of this one.

Just like Europa, the Phoenician woman that so bedazzled Zeus, Greece was seduced by the power, prestige and promise of happily-ever-after that came with entry into the single currency. Who could forget, for example, the excitement and sense of achievement that many felt when Prime Minister Costas Simitis withdrew the first euro

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10 years 100 issues The end of the affair Nick Malkoutzis analyses the end of a decade the euro and the end of a torrid affair

banknotes from and ATM at the beginning of 2002? It was confirmation that - as former Premier Constantine Karamanlis had once said - “Greece belongs to the West.” It was the culmination of a long and often bumpy road from the collapse of the military dictatorship in 1974, through the partisan but gradually progressive years of the socalled metapolitefsi, to – what many thought – would be guaranteed stability and prosperity. From being a fringe player in terms of European affairs, Greece now had access to the VIP lounge.

The potential rewards of joining the euro meant that Greeks were mostly willing to overlook the austerity program that Simitis applied to get the country into the single currency. But all good Greek myths have some kind of danger lurking in the background, and austerity was the one that defined this era in the country’s history. Entering the eurozone led to Greece casting off the shackles. We will come to the perils associated with this abandon later but for now, let’s focus on some of the positives.

Apart from newfound prestige, entry into the euro bestowed on Greece something much more practical: access to much cheaper credit. This formed the platform for an unprecedented period of sustained growth. It seems a long time ago now but, for a while, Greece had one of the strongest growth rates in the eurozone. These credit lines

allowed Greek companies to spread their wings and soar beyond Greece’s borders. It was not long before Mastiha was on the tip of everybody’s lips and Korres was under their skin. Greek banks and business were able to establish dominant positions in neighboring countries as Greece became the big player in the Balkans. Maybe it was a big fish in a small pond but things were going swimmingly.

The flow of cheap money from Europe also allowed many Greeks to realize dreams of living like their friends in other parts of the continent. They were able to travel abroad for holidays and weekends more easily. They could stock their homes with the latest electronic and white goods and drive the same cars as Europeans from London to Lisbon and Paris to Prague. Young people suddenly had the chance to buy homes and cars – purchases that their parents would have only been able to make in their late 30s or 40s after putting money aside.

Flourishing Greek banks were also happy to loan money to start-up businesses, allowing younger entrepreneurs to put their knowledge and skills to good use.

Rundown working class neighborhoods in Athens such as Gazi and Psyrri were transformed into hip urban hotspots. Greece rediscovered its own cuisine, albeit with a modern twist, as boutique tavernas and

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trendy eateries opened up one after the other. Athenians and visitors fell in love with the ancient sites, particularly the Acropolis, as the pedestrianization of Dionysou Aeropagitou allowed them to imagine walking with Socrates or lunching with Pericles. The opening of the new Acropolis Museum in 2009 was the crowning achievement in the effort to reconnect Greece’s past with its present.

In this positive atmosphere, Greece culture also blossomed. For a while, there wasn’t a wedding in the world that wasn’t big, fat and Greek, meze became the new tapas and the opening ceremony of the Athens Olympics a cultural reference point for people in all corners of the globe. Greek theater enjoyed somewhat of a revival and for only the second time, a Greek film – Dogtooth directed by Yorgos Lanthimos - was nominated at the Oscars. Greek music also reinvented itself, in some cases drawing on the influences of the past and present, such as through Imam Baildi’s fusing of rebetiko with hip-hop, to create a distinct sound – that of east meeting west and the past meeting the future. Even Greek sport enjoyed an unlikely moment in the sun with the national football team winning the European championship in 2004 and the basketball team doing the same a year later.

Entry into the euro also allowed Greece as a country to borrow at a cheaper rate.

Enjoying a bond spread that was not far above Germany’s, the Greek government was able to finance better wages for public servants and major infrastructure projects. Plans for roads, bridges and public transport that had remained on the drawing board for years were being put into practice. The metro, a new airport and the Attiki Odos were all completed in time for the Athens Olympics in 2004.

The Games were a confirmation to the world that Greece had truly arrived. But they were also the point at which Greece had reached the end of the runway. Few realized then that even more effort was needed to get the country off the ground, rather than careering along the ground towards disaster.

No attention was paid to the fact that all these positives were also mirrored in negatives that nobody was prepared to tackle. While entry into the euro granted Greece a place alongside the big boys, everybody overlooked that free lunches aren’t served at this particular table. Joining the eurozone was the opportunity for Greece to create the basis for a dynamic economy that could survive the rigors of competing with the other members. The chance was missed. Instead, Greek governments were happy to lap up the structural funding and cheap credit that was served to them without think-

32 insider athens | December 2011

10 years 100 issues

ing about how the country would eventually feed itself. There was no concerted effort to overhaul the public administration that stood as an obstacle to the country’s progress. It was not so much a question of size or cost of the public sector as of efficiency. But tackling this required a level of political will and vision that was largely absent during this period of Greek politics.

Simitis lost his way and control of his party soon after joining the euro and despite his successors as prime minister, Kostas Karamanlis and George Papandreou, being Greece’s youngest-ever premiership combo, the sound emanating from the political machinery was old and tired. Irrespective of euro membership, PASOK and New Democracy continued to treat Greece as their personal vehicle. Too much time, effort and money was spent on protecting their interests through the awarding of public contracts or hiring of personnel in the public sector. They promised reforms but rarely delivered them.

In terms of the public, there was a complete disregard for the implications of being part of a single currency. People were ill-prepared for the transition from the drachma to the euro, resulting in prices being rounded up and consumers being squeezed. The response was for cheap credit to bridge the gap. In the private sector, people turned to loans and credit cards while in the public sector, the government borrowed more to increase the pay of civil servants so they could keep up with the rising cost of living. In fact, if you go back and look at the statistics, Greeks proved to be the biggest patsies in the eurozone: while their wages rose during the last decade, the cost of living rose by much more. Even before the crisis struck, many people were worse off than they had been under the drachma – not that a return to the old currency now would be a panacea.

However, the borrowing and lending that went on to make up for this discrepancy left very little of value behind. The construction boom, for instance, proved little more than a bubble. Apart from providing work for day laborers, many of whom were paid off the books, its impact on the economy was far from what politicians and contractors - big and small - were making it out to be. The money that was lent to many entrepreneurs often proved little more than an avenue towards personal enrichment. The easiest, and most popular, thing for Greeks to do over the last decade was to open a store or business selling imported goods. The owner could sell at a big mark-up and make a tidy

profit but the impact of this on the broader economic scale was death by a thousand paper cuts.

It is telling, as brand strategist Peter Economides has pointed out, that Greece had the most state-of-theart broadcasting center in the world thanks to the Athens Olympics but after failing to find anything else to do with it, turned it into a shopping mall, and a luxury one at that. This move was symptomatic of the consumerist fever that afflicted Greece during the last decade. Borrowed money was being lavished on imported goods and little was being invested in research and development or production. Even Greece’s comparative advantage in tourism, boosted by the successful hosting of the Olympics, dissipated under the challenge of Croatia and Turkey. Rather than Athens, Istanbul became the place where west and east met. The seeds of catastrophe had been sown.

However, Greece also failed to realize that it was part of a fundamentally flawed currency union in which the countries on the periphery would struggle to stay afloat even if they paddled hard, let alone rested on their laurels. Greece’s greatest sin was being seduced by the idea that it could ride the euro into the future without making any effort on its own. Like many others, it overlooked the blinkered monetarist view that the European Central Bank subscribed to, or that a currency union without fiscal, economic and political unity would be doomed.

It was satisfied with taking a back seat when France, and Germany in particular, began to shape policy in their own interests.

Greece also ended up being a passenger when the crisis really began to take a stranglehold on the country. It’s acceptance of the terms and flawed thinking behind the bailout exacerbated an already dangerous situation. And, as we stand on the precipice, waiting for either a grand response to this spreading crisis or the big fall, it is clear that Europe – not just Greece – is trying to discover itself. As it delves into its political reserves to find an answer to its existential questions, Greece should realize that it won’t be able to ride into the future on someone else’s back. The road ahead is long and full of obstacles and regardless of whether Greece remains in or out of the euro, Greeks will have to walk it. It started with a seduction but the affair is now over.

insider athens | December 2011 33

Words worth a thousand pictures D. TSITSO

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Insider sent out a set of questions to its readers and here are a few of the responses.

Thank you for your precious contribution!

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The Insider is a Cosmopolitan, Knowledgeabl Beautiful fr iend e, .

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Insider is a delic ate figure!

Plaka

He would be really interesting , modern with an outgoing personality. He would apprec therefore, visiting art galleri iate art and es and attending theatrical plays would be some of his ties. Nevertheless, spending main activitime wandering around the city center, shopping as we a cup of coffee with his fav ll as enjoying orite book would be a great part of his everyday life. He always know how to enjoy would his life and find interesting places to hang around with his friends.

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34 insider athens | December 2011

sybil

enter

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ic, I ir-Iliades, enic Republ Dear Ms. Na to the Hell da your na Ca of y of it Ambassador llent qual As the new on the exce u yo te la ngratu wanted to co cceed eveory, you su . ne zi ga eece’s hist ma Gr portuniin op me d ti icult hievement an ac ve ti At this diff si ailing po of the prev celebrating counter some but ry month in to es c ng ni le to needed icant chal ties, a much faces signif utes of ib ce tr ee at Gr ve m. imis ny positi Helleno-pess brate the ma neurs, artant to cele rt eek entrepre po Gr im of is s it se es cc su e y and th this countr the vators. terpoint to s, and inno er it wr , welcome coun ists a l to ia es nt id te ov zine pr om the po Insider Maga o n detract fr st te o of ev h st ic pi wh nes Greek “Ego in daily headli id sa ve re. As I ha in be found he vma.” ntribution llenico pneu he to important co an . s athana re ke tu ma fu y pe for the ne certainl there is ho Your magazi e er wh ce a Gree highlighting ely, Yours Sincer ck Republic Pe Robert W e Hellenic Canada to th of or ad ss Amba

10 years 100 issues

Ambassad or Mr. Ro of Canada, bert Peck

What gift would you of

fer Greece in 2012?

A gifted leader for 2012.

I will try to offer as much aes thetics and beautiful jewelle ry I can through my work in order to help reestablish Greece’s image abr oad!

Innovative new jobs for the unemployed! and the ete rnal spirit of the Olympic s Lots of optimism to deal with the challen ges

My taxes!!

A new society based on me

ritocracy and the rule of law

.

Peace A garden

my life ch is the elixir of More work whi e More free tim of contribution!

The “pleasure” began in 2011. all the projects i te ple m co to y ilit The ab

Now that we’ve entere d our triple-digits, wha t anti-aging, beauty ti ps would you sugges t for Insider?

vangelis

i

Monastirak Monastir

And yourself?

A glass of ouzo with ice and a big smile.

To always surprise us an d keeps us informed abou t what is going on in the constantly evolving on its city and to be design and looks!

Insider does a great job in including a variety of featur es but it could perhaps add some of these ideas: • Any interesting Athenian/ Greek story that rises Noted! to the level of a feature art icle!

• 30 Things you can do this month in Athens • We all need to laugh mo re these days! Feature sho rt, funny happenings or stories .

More travel articles ; the best way to re juvenate yourself!

Add a section just for kid s and another for teena gers...

A glass of cour age!

aki

insider athens | December 2011 35

10 years 100 issues

n Athens gem or hangout

A description of your secret hidde

zeri Lagonissi. livia and Grand Resort Ou Trigono Steak House in Ka area of Plaka! If I ens and most of them are in the place which I like one e I have many secrets gems in Ath giv l wil y ret anymore so I onl share them they wont be a sec k. It’s the Tower of the Winds (Oi Aerides) wal I n whe e tim to spend some Belvoir restaurant be Alpine Center’s award-winning ld wou this but it, ve belie ’t won You invitation! This is where lic, can be visited and enjoyed by that, although not open to the pub eyes of master chef tice their skills under the watchful our advanced culinary students prac s. instructors and guest celebrity chef y absorbs hidden, but it reall Well, it’s not that ns from the he At the view of y: da e th of s res the st Galaxy bar! t preserved of all the Temple of Iphaesteus. it is the bes the is gem ens Ath e orit fav My beautiful garden. temples and is surrounded by a

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in athens every what’s going on I want to know advance. my activities in month and plan

36 insider athens | December 2011

I would choose one of my

your 100th issue?

favorite places invite all my fans and launch a nice pa rty.

• Publish a double issue tha t contains a guest book wit h wishes from all the reader think is what you are doing s (which I with this interview) • Dress me up with a very special cover • Or be very innovative by featuring inviting entrepreneurs and bus a cover story with a title “Reinvigorating Greece”, iness men and women to con tribute bright and innovative ideas to boo st the economy! We need to cheer up the population! Insider can • 100 tidbits. One tidbit fro take a lead in this!

Point m each of the 100 issues.

We wil taken! l I would organize a nice party be having a party with friends an We’ll k in late Jan! d partners eep yo u post All the friends to ed. gether! Ι would have a party and ask all the guests to br ing a non-peris ha ble food to give to char ity.

If you had to pick a Greek mythological ch aracter and a real-life personalit y to have a conversa tion together to be featured in Insi der, who would you ch oose?

Goddess Ath ina and Gianna Daskalaki

Angelopoulo Dionysos and Monica Be u. lucci or Appollon and ou r Greek Minister of Cultu would be interesting. re - both Steve Jobs and Socr ates! Just as the late Steve Jobs who said: “I would tra de all of my technolo gy for an afternoon with So crates!

Ulysses and Paul McCart ney!

Apollon and a glam our “neo-greek’ !

King Odysseus and author Mic hael Lewis

aris

being a hundred

75,000 images

City Scope

Adventure

Ecospeak

Nightlife

Oenophile

7,200,000

News

Restaurant Index

Kaleidoscope

Insider

Area-wise Listings

Fast

Lane Greek Chic Business Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gas-

words

tronomy Agora Fashion Arts and Events Galleries Art Culture Photography Books

Society

Education

History

Business

My

Athens Big Apple Beat Music Sport Fashion Art Review Literature Time Lapse Fast Lane Talking Point Education Cityscope

Diplomacy Travel Leisure Phoro Essay Greek Life Energy Greenspeak Ideas

Giving

Wellness

Green Living

Gastronomy

Greek Chic

Agora

Secret Gardens

Fashion

Grape

Restaurant Re-

views Escapes Design Urban Living Media Tribute Kosmika City Scope News

When stacked in a pile it measures

52 cms tall

the height of a

38 insider athens | December 2011

200,000

Adventure

Restaurant Index

Ecospeak

Nightlife

Oenophile

Insider

Kaleidoscope Arts and Events

Galler-

ies Art Culture Photography Books Society Education History Business My Athens Big Apple Beat Music Sport Fashion Art Review

,

, newborn baby

Literature

creative hours

Time Lapse

Fast Lane Talking Point

Educa-

tion Cityscope Diplomacy Travel Leisure Phoro Essay Greek Life Energy

Greenspeak

Giving

City Scope

Adventure

Ecospeak

Nightlife Oneophile Insider News Restaurant Index Kaleidoscope Area-wise Listings

Fast Lane

City Scope

Adventure

Ecospeak

Nightlife Oenophile Insider News Restaurant Index Kaleidoscope

10 years 100 issues

means...

In

weight it matches a nine-year old at

23kgs

,

100 iconic covers

But what cannot be measured in figures is the goodwill we have earned from our readers, clients, partners and even, our local florist who chose to express himself through a medium he knows best –

flowers!

This is what it looks like when 100 children hold up a

100 copies

.

insider athens | December 2011 39

Inside Out, Upside Down and Round and Round As Insider celebrates 100 issues, our newest intern Katie Prentiss takes the retrospective as an opportunity to have a history lesson in the evolution of the magazine.

A

s a new intern at Insider, I was more than happy to take on the project of looking back at Insider’s last 100 issues in order to learn more about the magazine. Its history as an important resource and quality publication in Athens was even more extensive than I could have imagined.

Starting as Inside Out, the magazine began as a helpful guide for expatriates and tourists. Before long, the magazine had established itself as a serious, sophisticated monthly with articles on art and culture, features on the city’s hidden secrets and interviews with local and international personalities. The magazine had by then distinguished itself with its clean, understated design and its editorial content reflected the changes in Athens as a metropolis in the run-up to the Olympics. A new-found dynamism and a plethora of cultural and infrastructure projects changed the way Athenians worked, lived, commuted and entertained.

The magazine captured the spirit, the eagerness to prove a point as the world watched it’s every move and Insider soon became a reference point for the international community living here and for travellers visiting Greece on business and leisure. By the end of 2003, Inside Out became Insider. A fruitful partnership with the International Herald Tribune and a distribution network with most leading luxury hotels in Greece receiving a copy of Insider in their hotel rooms meant that Insider had now become a household name and advertisers saw value in a product that had a very niche, targeted market. In 2004, Insider covered the Olympics, publishing two issues with the inside scoop of the details of the opening ceremony.

Insider’s annual parties, held for the first time in 2004, turned out to be megaevents. By now, the flagship magazine of Insider Publications had replicated its success with magazines in French, Russian, Japanese and Chinese.

The guestbook feature in the 40th issue (Nov. 2005) looked back at all the amazing people Insider had already featured included an amazing who’s who including fashion designers and their muses, actors, industrialists, poets, musicians and conductors, artists, hospitality executives, sommeliers, academicians, diplomats, art collectors, jewellery designers, historians, ship-owners, curators, politicians, writers, bankers, chefs, restaurateurs, and the list goes on and on...

The magazine also covered articles on ordinary foreigners who had adopted Greece as their home and made an extraordinary difference as well Greeks from the diaspora who combined their Greek heritage with their professional skills to excel both here and abroad. By 2006, Insider had improved on its formula and had increased its circulation to almost twice its levels from 2003.

40 insider athens | December 2011

10 years 100 issues

Nightlife Oenophile Insider News Restaurant Index Kaleidoscope Area-wise Listings Fast Lane Greek Chic Business Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Agora Fashion Arts and Events Galleries Art Culture Photography Books Society Education History Business My Athens Big Apple Beat Music Sport Fashion Art Review Literature Time Lapse Fast Lane Talking Poin Education Cityscope Diplomacy Travel Leisure Phoro Essay Greek Life Energy Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Agora Fashion Grape Ideas Green Living Greek Chic Secret Gardens Restaurant Reviews Escapes Design Urban Living Media Tribute Kosmika City Scope Adventure Ecospeak Nightlife Oneophile Insider News Restaurant Index Kaleidoscope Arts and Events Galleries Art Culture Photography Books Society Education History Business My Athens Big Apple Beat Music Sport Fashion Art Review Literature Time Lapse Fast Lane Talking Poin Education Cityscope Diplomacy Travel Leisure Phoro Essay Greek Life Energy Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Agora Fashion Grape Ideas Green Living Greek Chic Secret Gardens Restaurant Reviews Es-

Kona Kai

Zephyros

Crystal Lounge & Panorama

December 24th, 2011

December 24th, 2011

December 31st, 2011

Christmas Eve Festive Dinner Menu 19:00 onwards a 69.00 per person

Christmas Eve Dinner Buffet 19:00 – 24:00 a 98.00 per person

New Year’s Eve Dance Party with DJ 23:00 onwards a 38.00 per person (includes snack & sweet buffet and 1 drink).

December 31st, 2011 New Year’s Eve Festive Dinner menu with Live Entertainment 20:00 onwards a 79.00 per person or a 99.00 per person (price includes 1 bottle of white/red wine for 2 persons)

December 25th, 2011 Christmas Day Brunch Buffet 12:30 – 17:00 a 89.00 per person

(free entrance for guests who will dine in our restaurants).

For information & reservations please call: 210 930 0060.

December 31st, 2011 New Year’s Eve Festive Dinner Buffet 21:00 onwards a 98.00 per person

January 1st, 2012 New Year’s Day Breakfast 04:00 – 10:30 a 27.50 per person (Live entertainment not included)

January 1st, 2012 Prices are per person and include taxes.

Beverages are included only when mentioned.

New Year’s Day Brunch Buffet 12:30 – 17:00 a 89.00 per person For information & reservations please call: 210 930 0060.

Athens Ledra Marriott Hotel 115, Syngrou Avenue, 117 45 Athens, Greece Tel: 210 930 0000, Fax: 210 935 8603 Email: athensledra@marriott.com Website: athensmarriott.com • ledramarriott.gr

Area-wise Listings Fast Lane Greek Chic Business Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Agora Fashion Arts and Events Galleries Art Culture Photography Books Society Education History Business My Athens Big Apple Beat Music Sport Fashion Art Review Literare Time Lapse Fast Lane Talking Point Education Cityscope Diplomacy Travel Leisure horo Essay Greek Life Energy Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Agora Fashion Grape deas Green Living Greek Chic Secret Gardens Restaurant Reviews Escapes Design Urban iving Media Tribute Kosmika City Scope Adventure Ecospeak Nightlife Oenophile Inder News Restaurant Index Kaleidoscope Arts and Events Galleries Art Culture Photography Books Society Education History Business My Athens Big Apple Beat Music Sport ashion Art Review Literature Time Lapse Fast Lane Talking Point Education Cityscope Diplomacy Travel Leisure Phoro Essay Greek Life Energy Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gasnomy Agora Fashion Grape Ideas Green Living Greek Chic Secret Gardens Restaurant Reviews Escapes Design Urban Living Media Tribute Kosmika City Scope Adventure ospeak Nightlife Oenophile Insider News Restaurant Index Kaleidoscope Area-wise Listings ast Lane Greek Chic Business Greenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Agora Fashion Arts nd Events Galleries Art Culture City Scope Adventure Ecospeak Nightlife Oenophile Insider News Restaurant Index Kaleidoscope Area-wise Listings Fast Lane Greek Chic Business reenspeak Giving Wellness Gastronomy Agora Fashion Arts and Events Galleries Art Culture hotography Books Society Education History Business My Athens Big Apple Beat Music port Fashion Art Review Literature Time Lapse Fast Lane Talking Poin Education Cityope Diplomacy Travel Leisure Phoro Essay Greek Life Energy Greenspeak Giving Wellness astronomy Agora Fashion Grape Ideas Green Living Greek Chic Secret Gardens Restaurant Reviews Escapes Design Urban Living Media Tribute Kosmika City Scope Adventure

10 years 100 issues

2007 and 2008 were characterized by star power, including interviews with Nia Vardalos, access to the set of Mamma Mia!, time spent with Robert Duffy of Marc Jacobs and Glenn Lowry, the MoMA director, a sneak peak into the New Acropolis Museum, and interviews with celebrated Greek artists such as Dimitris Mytaras and Stephen Antonakos as well as literary figures such as Alicia Stallings, Bruce Chatwin, Paul Johnston and Sofka Zinovieff. In the 75th issue, in June 2009, Insider’s founder Steve Pantazopoulos referred to it as “the little magazine that could.” It was evident by this point that the magazine not only “could” but also “was doing.” It was also the year when Insider Publications made its foray abroad into neighbouring Turkey and followed up with a version in Chinese (Mandarin) in 2011.

In recent years, Insider has grown, despite the crisis, to be home to many interesting feature stories, thought provoking supplements, an exhaustive list of all the best cultural events in the city and monthly interviews with Ambassadors. In the meantime, the list of magazines

42 insider athens | December 2011

that were launched that tried to copy Insider outright, and then folded, now number in the double digits. Insider’s sustainability and success has been due mainly to a combination of keeping the quality of its product intact while carrying its clients and readers along, through good times and bad.

As a workplace, Insider is an incredibly creative and cosmopolitan community with highly skilled contributors who have spent time all over the world. This lends itself to an open-minded and all-inclusive environment, which I think is reflected beautifully in the magazine.

I’m proud to intern for such a constantly innovating magazine.

As for you, dear reader, you are the best part of Insider. You are evergrowing with ever-evolving needs which leads to a mutually beneficial relationship because it challenges the magazine to keep improving in order to better serve your needs in Greece.

Here’s to 100 more issues!

Wishes we hold dear Congratulations on Insider’s 10-year celebrations!

We wish you every success in the following years as well!!

wishes Insider many more years of fun exploring Greece

A toast to an interesting, sophisticated magazine Stay healthy, live long

100 refreshing wishes

The Romanos Resort, Costa Navarino wishes Insider a prosperous and successful year for 2012!

Many, many more successful years to come

The Astir Palace Resort celebrates with the Insider Magazine their 10 year, 100 issue birthday supporting their efforts to continue with innovative ideas for their magazine!

FAGE wishes Insider...endurance and many more creative years to come

With 100 colourful issues on your palette, we raise our glasses to the successful continuation of the beautiful city twist that you offer to your readers

Keep looking younger and fresher Doing things differently.

Congratulations, Insider

500 reasons to keep going strong

10 years 100 issues

Congratulations on the 100th issue celebration of Insider! We hope that you continue, as we at Holmes Place say, inspiring people to live well

We wish you that the years to come will be as creative as the past decade, filled with interesting interviews, breathtaking stories, exclusive scoops and elegant suggestions.

May the passion you have for your job be always embraced by your readers...

Air France KLM wishes you many years of Embark on a journey to Indonesia and experience its rich and diverse culinary for many years to come! leading you to new heights! traditions in the Zephyros restaurant. Fromcontinued November success 30th to December 4th 2011,

A JOURNEY TO INDONESIA

you will have the opportunity to enjoy a variety of popular Indonesian dishes in a traditionally decorated environment.

Dinner Buffet: 18:30 - 23:00 hrs

Happy Birthday! We wish you to discover, enjoy and share things intrip lifetickets todayfor and every day!

At the end of the culinary celebration we the will finest draw two round two,

To a magazine that has been a useful guide, a source of inspiration and a good companion

one to Jakarta including a 3 night stay at the JW Marriott Hotel in Jakarta and one

to Baliby including hotel accommodations.

100 wishes 100 yummy issues Mythos for many 50% discount on parking keep cooking them up more great issues!

Add more glamour and luster… and keep going for another 100

For reservations contact our Zephyros restaurant telephone: 210 9300 060 Proudly co sponsored by:

Μπράβο σας ! Φιλοξενήσαμε το INSIDER τα τελευταία 10 χρόνια στο Lobby τουMarriott N.J.V. Athens Ledra Hotel 115, Syngrou Avenue, 117 45 Athens, Greece ATHENS PLAZA HOTEL και σταθήκατε με σεβασμό και αξιοπρέπεια προς όλους Tel: 210 930 0000, Fax: 210τους 935 8603 Email: athensledra@marriott.com πελάτες μας. Σας ευχόμαστε να συνεχίσετε! Για πολλά πολλά Website:χρόνια!!! www.athensmarriott.com • www.ledramarriott.gr

46 insider athens | December 2011

ATHENS VODAFONE SIEMENS ST. LAWRENCE ANNICK GOUTAL THE THINK TANK OUZO PLOMARI AIR FRANCE KLM LIFE GALLERYCELLIER ROYAL OLYMPIC COSTA NAVARINO CROWNE PLAZA

NJV ATHENS PLAZA THAI AIRWAYS LIANA VOURAKIS KOSMOCAR FOLLI FOLLIE CAMPION SCHOOL THE TEA ROUTE UNILEVER APRIATI TOTAL BNP PARIBAS PORTO CARRAS

BUR HAVEAU VER ANA IT OCH C BAS VAN GRARE & BRLU EST CLEEF ND B OWW RETA N SOLIN ATHE & ARPE GNE MELIA NS PU LS CELE B BRIT RAXEVSLIC Y MO KY VERS

CROWN PHILIPS LUFTHANSA EMPORIKI BANK HENKEL HELLAS RECKITT BENCKISER LAND ROVER GULF AIR NOVOTEL MONT BLANC EUROPARTNERS BLUE STAR FERRIES

SEMIRAMIS CAPSIS SOCIETE GENERALE CHIVAS REGAL KONSTANTINO APPLEBEE’S FUJIFILM ALPHA BANK KESSARIS CARTIER MUMM KORRES

LIPTON LALAOUNIS LACOSTE DEREE FRIESLAND CAMPINA TRAVEL PLAN LA CHOCALATIERE DASSAULT WESTIN MERCK CAPSIS

ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL IHT FAGE BEIERSDORF ALFA ROMEO GAP GRAND RESORT LAGONISSI GAVELLO ACS AXA JEEP METROPOLITAN HOTEL MYTHOS BEER RENAULT FIAT WSW

ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS VEET AT&T WIND HERAKLEIDON MUSEUM AUDI NESTLE MARATHIANAKIS JEWELLERY UNIVERSITY OF INDIANAPOLIS KRAFT

AVA LANCIA NOKIA COCA COLA 3E BOUTARI ATHENS LEDRA MARRIOTT EFA ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE DANONE CITROEN COLLEGE YEAR IN ATHENS

HELL ATTICENIC BR ST C A MOEWERIE THE ATHERIN NARCHS OF AT AME A RICAE’S SEPHCLASSICLANTI SA N UN ORA C IVER BEER RUISES SITY F OF AEATER THEN S

IFA TEN HOLMES PLACE ABSOLUT STOLICHNAYA ALPINE CENTRE UBS COSMOTE MEGAPANOS SOTHEBY’S FNAC SSANGYONG MOTOR BAYER ORPHEE BEINOGLOU AMITA SOFITEL

STARWOOD SEPHORA VILLAGE FILMS CHOPARD PAPADOPOULOS BISCUITS ASTIR PALACE RESORT GENIKI BANK SUPERFAST FERRIES BENAKI MUSEUM OPAP DEWAR’S NEW YORK COLLEGE

BMW KYLIX HILTON ATHENS ATHENIAN BREWERY ATTIKI VOLVO GNTO ART ATHINA NOTOS GALLERIES ZOLOTAS AVRA STARBUCKS BACCARAT

10 years 100 issues

FOR SUPPORTING

Incoming

by Travel Plan

Image caption from Santorini

30 years of countless trips, unique destinations & magical accommodations under the Travel Plan brand guarantee; introduce you to Greece‌ the vivid cultural history, the breathtaking landscapes, the exquisite Mediterranean gastronomy & the Greek hospitality.

Travel Plan, Quality that meets your expectations!

incoming@travelplan.gr • www.travelplan.gr

TIME LAPSE

13 November, 11:24

48 insider athens | December 2011

Grey skies made way for a burst of sunshine and a glorious rainbow as the fastest Greek marathon runner at the 29th Athens Classic Marathon, Dimitris Theodorakakos made his way into the majestic Kallimarmaro stadium at a record 2 hours and 24 minutes. The winner this year was Moroccan Abdelkerim Boubker who crossed the line at a record time of 2:11 just ahead of the Kenyan duo of Sammy Chumba (2:13) and Daniel Ndiritu Gatheru (2:16). Elfneshe Melaku of Ethiopia was the first woman to cross the finish line in 2:35. The loudest cheers were however reserved for centenarian Alexandros Moystafa who finished the race in 5:44.

Time Lapse

BB

The winter sun sets on the Panathenaic stadium, ‘stage of all Athenians.’ Also known as Kallimarmaro, or ‘beautiful marble’ the stadium has been home to many a sporting event and was host to the first Olympics of the modern era in 1896. It has welcomed thousands of runners and athletic stars from all around the world. The stadium continues to be a proud symbol of sportsmanship and ideals and attracts thousands of tourists daily who seek the excitement and the thrill of sport.

KALLIMARMARO

24 November, 17:15

insider athens | December 2011 49

For store addresses see page 57

AGORA men

Colourful cufflinks

by Hermes

Art Deco Style fountain pen with red lacquer, palladium-finish, mother-of-pearl cabochon and rhodium-plated 18-carat solid-gold nib by Cartier

Silk ties from Benaki museum

Kindle Fire by Amazon

USB key with Logotype dĂŠcor,

by Cartier

50 insider athens | December 2011

Folding electric bicycle to deal with weighty issues such as body mass index and transport strikes, available at Ideal Bicycles

The fifth limited edition of the Jacky Ickx watch in black with hand-sewn alligator leather strap and steel folding clasp

For snowboarding fans, Rossignol One Magtek Snowboard

For an inspiring read over the holidays, Steve Job’s biography, available at Amazon

Electric cigarettes to keep your environment smoke-free in 2012, available at www.alibaba.com

Sonia Spencer’s witty cufflinks, available at www.soniaspencer.co.uk Handmade velvet house shoes

by Foster and Son available at Thission Revisited II/ TR2

Greece in a bottle – mastiha liquer from mastihashop

Limited edition set eau de toilette & after-shave balm by Korres

insider athens | December 2011 51

For store addresses see page 57

AGORA women

Gatsby Diary

by Longchamp

Earrings from the Imperiale Collection of Chopard in 18 carat white gold entirely set with diamonds

Makeup Studio – a palette with folding legs and a choice of 96 eyeshadows, 84 lip glosses, 6 cream eyeliners, 2 eyeliners, 3 blushes, 1 bronzing powder and 1 mascara from Sephora

52 insider athens | December 2011

Silk scarves inspired by artist Nikolaos Ghika’s paintings, Benaki Museum

Collector’s box of Oriental sweets in red metal from mastihashop

Emerald shoes

by Monsoon

Red calf Belen bag

by Loewe

Red bell hat by Accessorize

Lucky charm for 2012 in 18 carat yellow gold with diamond ring and a long blue satin cord

by Zolotas

Eau de Cartier essence d’orange eau de toilette, 100 ml spray, by Cartier

Agenda Hermes ULYSSE GM notebooks in Togo calfskin / Pencils in plaited goatskin

Royal Blue Magic Sphinx bracelets Ultra, Diva and Miss

by Frey Wille

insider athens | December 2011 53

For store addresses see page 57

AGORA children

Skull soaps by Bobby Citizen Bio available at www.oladeco.com Converse shoes with skull motif www.converse.com

Heely’s for girls with attitude www.heely’s.com

Wii Cyber Bike for young adolescents, available at Public

Finger puppets available at Ikea

Beauty Bear by Sephora - all proceeds from sales of Beauty Bears to be offered to the charity Elepap

54 insider athens | December 2011

Little human cushions available at www.oladeco.com

Chic change purse wallet by Hermes for trendy young things

Rabbit in a hat, Ikea

Veggies in fabric in picnic hamper, Ikea

Children’s watches in different shades and hues at the Benaki Museum Shop

Union Jack Jewellery Box by Accessorize

Fairisle pet jumpers

by Accessorize Christmas cookie cut-outs, Ikea Apple iPod nano with Multi-Touch technology in seven electric colors, available at istorm

Rainbow snake mirror by Niloc Pagen in papier mache, Zoumboulakis Gallery

Fridolin bird

by Robert Mayr in turquoise papier mache, Zoumboulakis Gallery

insider athens | December 2011 55

AGORA home

Alexander Girard’s wooden dolls available at Vitra

George Nelson Ball Clock, at Vitra

Brilliantly hued glasses for the festive season buy Room Service

56 insider athens | December 2011

Candle holder, Ikea Ashtray for cigars, Ianos bookstore

Sparkling Malvasia wine and Jaquesson champagne, available at Kylix

Fruit basket, Room Service

Pot-pourri bags from Ikea

African mirror in recycled metal, Zoumboulakis Gallery

Christmas star decorations, www.oladeco.com

Red tray, Thission Revisited / TR2

Red and white Christmas decorations, Ikea

Festive jug, Ikea

Stores:

Olive tree in pots with Greek motifs available at Fleria

Stack of boxes with palace motifs, Room Service

Accessorize, Ermou 42, Athens, Tel: 210 331 7780 Astrolavos art galeries, Irodotou 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210 722 1200 Amazon, www.amazon.com Benaki Museum, Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue, Tel: 210 367 1000 Chopard, Voukourestiou 2 & Stadiou, Athens, Tel: 210 325 0555 Eleni Marneri galerie, Lebessi 5-7 & Porinou 16 Makriyanni, Tel: 210 861 9488 Fleria, Patriarchou Ioakim 35, Kolonaki, Tel: 210 722 9697 Frey Wille, Voukourestiou 21, Kolonaki, Tel: 210 338 7150 Hermès, Voukourestiou 1, Athens, Tel: 210 323 3715 Ikea, Spata and Pireos Street, www.ikea.gr iStorm, Filikis etairias square 19-20 (Kolonaki square), Tel: 211 999 7590 Ιanos, Stadiou 24 Athens, Tel: 210 321 7917 Korres, www.korres.com Kylix, Karneadou 20, Kolonaki, Tel: 210 724 5143 La Chocolatiere, info@lachocolatiere.gr, Tel: 210 3467660 Loewe, Golden Hall, Marousi, Tel: 210 683 6230 Longchamp, Boutique Longchamp Golden Hall, Tel: 210 683 6220 Mastihashop, Panepistimiou 6 & Kriezotou, Athens Tel: 210 363 2750 Museum of Cycladic Art, Neofytou Douka 4, Tel: 210 722 8321 Monsoon, The Mall, A. Papandreou 35, Marousi Tel: 210 630 0000 Nespresso Club, Tel: 800 11 71 300, 210 677 1300 Ola deco, www.oladeco.com Room Service, Foivis 16, Glyfada, Tel: 210 894 5200 Sephora, www.mysephora.gr Sequoia, Notos Galleries Aiolou & Stadiou, Athens Tel: 210 324 5811 Skoufa Gallery, Skoufa 4, Tel: 210 364 3025 Sonia Spencer, www.soniaspencer.co.uk Thission Revisited II/TR 2, Vasilis 16, Thission, Tel: 346 0096 Vitra, Kifisias Avenue 324. Chalandri, Tel: 210 6746 601 Zolotas, Panepistimiou 10, 210 360.1272 & Stadiou 9, Athens Tel: 210 322.1222

insider athens | December 2011 57

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This holiday season, avail of our special 10th anniversary offer and gift a slice of Greece to your family and friends for just 30 euros a year*. Win fabulous prizes including flight tickets, hotel stays and spa treatments.

Special offer available until 20 February 2012.

ATHENS

To subscribe, call: 210.7298634 or fax:210.7298635 or email: subscriptions@insider-magazine.gr or simply visit our website www.insider-magazine.gr *70 euros a year for subscribers abroad(postage and shipping included)

HOW FAR WOULD YOU GO FOR www.cartier.com

7, Voukourestiou str. - Athens - 2103313600

Hidden sanctuaries Christina Anid explores hidden green oases, shielded from view in Athens’ gritty alleys, that combine nature and gastronomy with a touch of rustic charm

I Lefka, a village square in Athens

T

his family-run taverna is exactly the kind of place that one dreams of in a forgotten little village in the Greek hinterland. Open every day and

all day (except Sunday evenings), you will find all the regular Greek taverna fare: fava, soutzoukakia and imam straight off the stove. In winter, the garden is covered with a tent. With checkered tablecloths in blue and white, barrels of wine lined up against white-washed walls and ubiquitous pots of geranium and basil lending colour and fragrance, I Lefka captures the charm and imagery of a picturesque plateia. Children scramble between tables, cats prowl around looking for Leftovers, dogs laze around, dishes steam out of the kitchen incessantly, laughter rings out from a large group of friends and you’re transported to a happier, simpler place for a while. I Lefka is a delightful hiding place and one worth spending a Sunday afternoon in.

I Lefka, Mavromixalis 121 and Voulgaroktonou Neapoli Exarhia Tel: 210 36 14 038 Nearest tube: Panepistimiou or Victoria (15 min walk) Open Monday to Saturday from 1p.m to midnight.

Sunday from 1p.m to 5p.m

60 insider athens | December 2011

Secret gardens

8H F

insider athens | December 2011 61

Piu Verde Cafe, very ‘dolce vita’ ...

L

ocated just a stone’s throw away from the Ministry of Defence and the Ministry of Transport and Communications off Mesogeion Avenue, Piu

Verde has been attracting Athenians looking for much-needed respite from the chaos of the streets for over a decade. A virtual oasis, this ten-year old cafe-cum-restaurant has a large pond dominating the centre, surrounded by majestic, centennial trees with the tables set amphitheatrically around it.

Open all day long, Piu Verde is ideal for a drink after-work or coffee with friends. With so many little corners and niches to take refuge in, Piu Verde offers an intimate setting to have a real conversation. The music is lively without being too intrusive and if you’re peckish, Piu Verde also offers a reasonable choice of salads, burgers, pizza other snacks. In winter, you can still lounge under the trees and the stars a large part of the restaurant is covered with awnings.

Piu Verde Strat. Alsos Papagou and 8 Merarxias Papagou Woods (Alsos Papagou) Nearest tube: Ethniki Amina (10 min walk) Open daily from 9am to 2am. www.puiverde.com.gr

62 insider athens | December 2011

Secret gardens

8H F

insider athens | December 2011 63

Gastronomy

Simply fast, fresh and fabulous When brothers Aris and Brian Carey opened their first restaurant nine years ago, little did they realize they would be heading a burger empire with 16 stores in Attica and another in Thessaloniki. A Greek success story.

J

ust when prophets of doom focus on restaurants closing shop, here is a young, success story based on a simple philosophy that is not only doing well but is thriving. At the launch of their newest outlet in Halandri, a suburb fast acquiring a formidable reputation as being the foodie capital of Athens, Aris and Brian Carey were on hand to explain their medium, rare and well-grilled success. The underlying premise on which Simply Burgers has built its reputation is its insistence on the quality of its fresh ingredients – a clear distinction being drawn here from ‘fast’ being associated with ‘junk’, its focus on customer-service and its unique taste offering. It seems simple enough, like everything else at Simply Burgers, but it is a formula that works.

At the new Halandri restaurant, the style is minimalistic with an accent on wood and leather, creating a clutter-free but warm and inviting atmosphere. At the far end of the room is a bright sign that reads, Eat Real Food. Simply Burgers marries the efficiency of a fast food joint by encouraging customers to order at the counter but does away with the tedium of having to wait for your order by serving you at your table. In keeping with its transparent, interactive spirit, guests can watch their meal being prepared right in front of them. The owners claim that “the salads here are always freshly cut, all dressings and sauces are made with fresh ingredients, without preservatives and other additives and Simply Burgers even has its own recipe for the burger bun, baked every day to keep it fresh.”

Ideally located on Kifissias Avenue, Simply Burgers draws a steady crowd of office goers for lunch, or on their way home to quell postwork hunger pangs or friends who want to hang out for a casual meal. All 17 branches of Simply Burgers stay open from noon to midnight and boast 300,000 registered customers, 19,000 facebook fans and 1027 twitter followers! Simply Burgers is nimble enough to offer all sorts of possibilities: from deliveries to work or home, to take-aways to dine-ins.

Awarded the Stelios Haji-Ioannou Award for the Business Launch of the Year in 2008, the Carey brothers have since then doubled their number of franchises. Almost as refreshing as the dining experience at Simply Burgers is the inspiration these intrepid entrepreneurs offer young Greeks. A recipe worth emulating.

Simply Burgers in Halandri is located at Kifissias Ave. 228.

Tel: 210 6800 633 For other store details and special orders, check www.simplyburgers.gr

64 insider athens | December 2011

Insider guide refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details

restaurant index by type AMERICAN JACKSON HALL Kolonaki TGI FRIDAY’S Kolonaki

ARGENTINEAN ORO TORO Vouliagmeni

ASIAN GOLDEN PHOENIX Halandri SAIPAN Halandri

BAR - RESTAURANTS APSENDI Halandri BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq CENTRAL Kolonaki ECLIPSE Kolonaki ENTEKA Glyfada KITCHEN BAR Faliro & Halandri FRAME Kolonaki GINGER Mavili Sq ISLAND Vouliagmeni NIXON Kerameikos SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki

FISH RESTAURANTS 7 THALASSES Kolonaki AI NIKOLAS Syngrou CAPTAIN JOHN’S Piraeus FISH BAR Glyfada ITHAKI Vouliagmeni JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia KOLLIAS Syngrou LA PECHE Glyfada MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni PAPADAKIS Kolonaki PLOUS PODILATOU Piraeus PSAROMA Halandri THALATTA Gazi TO VAROULKO Kerameikos ZEFYROS Piraeus

FISH TAVERNAS ALMYRA Halandri DOURAMBEIS Piraeus KOLLIAS Piraeus MAISTRALI Vouliagmeni PSARAKI Vouliagmeni TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Piraeus

FRENCH L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki LE PETIT SOMMELIER Faliro SPONDI Pangrati TARTARE Glyfada VARDIS Kifissia

GOURMET KUZINA Thissio ECLIPSE Kolonaki ESSENCE Kifissia FUGA Mavili Square FUNKY GOURMET Kerameikos

P-BOX Kolonaki, Kifissia POLLY MAGOO Metaxurgeio PREMIERE Syngrou

GREEK 2 MAZI Plaka ATHIRI Kerameikos CUCINA POVERA Pangrati DAKOS Kolonaki DIPORTO Psyrri EDODI Acropolis ELAEA BISTROT Acropolis FASOLI Exarhia IDEAL Omonia KARAVITIS Pangrati KAVOURAS Exarhia LIANA’S KITCHEN Glyfada MANI MANI Acropolis MARE MARINA Faliro PLATANOS Plaka PROSOPA Gazi RIFIFI Exarhia TO KOUTI Monastiraki YANTES Exarhia YDRIA Plaka

GRILL 1920 Halandri MEAT SQUARE Glyfada & Halandri

INDIAN INDIAN MASALA Thissio ISKANDAR Alimos JAIPUR PALACE Maroussi

ITALIAN AGLIO OLIO Acropolis ACQUA AZZURA Kifissia AL FRESCO Vouliagmeni AL MILANESE Kolonaki ALTRO Kolonaki BOSCHETTO Kolonaki CANTUCCIO Psyrri DA LUCIANO Vouliagmeni DA VINCI Ag. Paraskevi DVLCIS IN FVNDO Voula GENOVESE Voula LA CASA DI GIORGINO Gyfada IL SALOTTO Glyfada IL SEGRETO Voula MEZZA LUNA Vouliagmeni MULTI 22 Syntagma NANNINELA Ag. Paraskevi NOVO ROMANTICO DI ANTONIO Halandri PIZZA POMMODORO Kolonaki SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki TONY BONANO Piraeus VINCENZO Glyfada

JAPANESE COO Kolonaki DOSIRAK syntagma FAR EAST Syntagma FREUD ORIENTAL Kolonaki FURIN KAZAN Syntagma GOLDEN PHOENIX Kifissia

INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni NOODLE BAR Syntagma SHOGUN Kifissia

KOSHER KOL TUV Monastiraki

LEBANESE BEIRUT Glyfada NARA NARA Psyrri NARGILE Kifissia

MEDITERRANEAN AIOLI RESTAURANT Glyfada BEREKET Glyfada BRACHERA Monastiraki BYZANTINE RESTAURANT Hilton CAFE AVYSSINIAS Monastiraki CAFE BOHEME Kolonaki CAFE TABAC Vouliagmeni DALI Halandri DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka DORIS Monastiraki ESSENCE Kifissia FATSIO Pangrati GALAZIA HYTRA Vouliagmeni GB CORNER Syntagma GRILL ROOM Vouliagmeni IDEAL RESTAURANT Omonia KITRINO PODILATO Gazi KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri MAGEMENOS AVLOS Pangrati MAGIREVONDAS Kolonaki MEIDANIS Monastiraki OCHRE & BROWN Psyrri OLIO BY PORTOFINO Ag. Paraskevi OMIKRON Kifissia PARLIAMENT Syntagma PRYTANEION Kolonaki PSARAKI Vouliagmeni RATKA Kolonaki TA KIOUPIA Kolonaki TO KOUTI Monastiraki TO POLITICO Glyfada ZEPHYROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus

MEXICAN AMIGOS Glyfada DOS HERMANOS Kifissia EL TACO BUENO Maroussi LA TIENDA Glyfada SANTA FE Halandri

PUB RESTAURANTS BAYERN BIERHAUS MICROBREWERY Glyfada BEER ACADEMY glyfada BIER HAUS Vouliagmeni MOLLY MALONE’S Glyfada

ROOFTOP DINING ELECTRA Plaka GALAXY BAR Hilton IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq

SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi DREAM GRILL Voula KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki KILIZA Glyfada NAIADES Voula SAVVAS Monastiraki SCHARA Vouliagmeni SIGALAS-BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki SOUVLAKI BAR Thissio THANASSIS Monastiraki ZAHOS Vouliagmeni

SPANISH MI SUENO Kolonaki PUERTA DE ESPANA Pangrati SALERO Exarhia

TAVERNAS AMMOS Piraeus FILIPOU Kolonaki LOUIZIDIS Vouliagmeni MAMACAS Gazi MARGARO Piraeus SKOUFIAS Exarhia VLASSIS Hilton

THAI ROYAL THAI Kifissia

WINE BARS CELLIER LE BISTROT Syntagma L’ENOTECA Halandri WHISPERS OF WINE Maroussi

Westin Kids Club

MEZEDES AND OUZO ATHINAIKON Omonia KIRKI Thissio OUZADIKO Kolonaki SCHOLARHEIO Plaka SOLON Piraeus

MULTI ETHNIC ALTAMIRA Kolonaki

POLYNESIAN KONA KAI Syngrou

Register Now!

210.890.2000

The Tea Route reaches everyone The Tea Route • Haritos 5, Athens • Chr. Smyrnis 12, Thessaloniki www.tearoute.gr

insider athens | December 2011 67

Insider guide SHOP CHILDREN Damigos

Central Athens

Salero

Prosopa

Valtetsiou 51, Tel: 210.381.3358 Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia

Meg. Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.

Dimitrakopoulou 40 Tel: 210.922.0317 Toyshop with a wonderful selection, including wooden designs

Thalatta

Karyatidon 13A Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller

DRINK BARS, CLUBS & LOUNGES Almaz Skoufias

Mani Mani Falirou 10. Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches

Lontou 4, Tel: 210.382.8206 Exceptional entrees you are unlikely to find elsewhere

Tramezzini

Yantes

Mani Mani

EAT

Exarhia

Hatzichristou 8, Tel: 210.921.1770 All day italian café bistrot with gourmet street food

Asimenia Bakery Beles 1 and Androutsou Tel: 210.924.7655 Raisin bread, almond shortbread, yummy cookies & tasty loaves

Syllektiko Paleopolio Asklipiou 41, Tel: 210.364.1718 Antiques of all sorts and restoration services

Art Rat Records Zoodohou Pigis 48, Tel: 210.384.8001 Various vinyls

Medusa Tattoo Kallidromiou 85, Tel: 210.825.4593 Athens’ finest since 1995

Aglio Olio & Peperonicino Porinou 13 , Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci

SHOP

Vinyl Microstore Didotou 34, Tel: 210.361.4544 New vinyls & cds; also reissues from the 60s & more

Elaea Bistrot Makriyanni 19-21 , Tel: 210.921.2280 Greek chic coffee and tempting snacks beside the Acropolis Museum www.elaea.gr

Gelato-Café Makriyanni 19-21, Tel: 210.923.8124 Homemade ice cream and waffles

68 insider athens | December 2011

DRINK Circus Bar Navarinou 11, Tel: 210.361.5255 Attracts a hip and happening crowd in a cozy space

Ginger Ale Themistokleous 74, Tel: 210.330.1246 Enjoy a cocktail or a coffee in a retro pop atmosphere

Vox Arahovas 56 & Themistokleous Tel: 210.383.5811, One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retro-tinged drink

Yesterday's Bread Kallidromiou 87-89, Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed

Edodi Veikou 80 , Tel: 210.921.3013 Fresh ingredients presented at your table, then cooked to perfection

Valtetsiou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with organic ingredients. 20 Euros per person

Gazi

Greece is for Lovers

Butcher’s Shop

EAT Fasoli

Mamacas

Kavouras Themistokleous 64, Tel: 210.381.0202 Dine while enjoying live Rebetika music

Barouge Andronikou 4, Tel: 210.342.4994 A staple of Athenian nightlife

Dirty Ginger Triptolemou 46, Tel: 210.342.3809 Excellent cocktails

Grande Dame Persefonis 23, Tel: 210.341.6412 Chic bar serving elaborate champagne cocktails

Nipiagogeio Elasidon & Kleanthous 8 Tel: 210.345.8534, For late-night dancing to funky electronic music

Villa Mercedes Andronikou & Tzaferi 11 Tel: 210.342.2380 Mega club ideal for all-night dancing

LIVE GREEK MUSIC Athinon Arena Pireos 166, Tel: 210.347.1111 The latest in live Greek music acts

EAT Persefonis 19, Tel: 210.341.3440 Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes

Emanouil Benaki 45 , Tel: 210.330.0010 A great meal in an uplifting environment

Triptolemou 12, Tel: 210.347.4763 Lounge in a modern atmosphere while listening to music from around the world

Persefonis 41, Tel: 210.346.4984 Modern taverna located in an old barrel warehouse offering traditional Greek fare

Kitrino Podilato Keramikou 116, Tel: 210.346.5830 Mediterranean cuisine in a modern industrial atmosphere

Hilton

GIFTS

Vitonos 5, Tel: 210.346.4204 Fresh seafood creations

Ilias Lalaounis museum

Acropolis

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

EAT Alatsi Vrassida 13, Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Cretan specialties

Byzantine Restaurant

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400 Simply prepared local flavours.

Guaranteed value for money

Milos Garden

Vlassis Neandrou 15, Tel: 210.646.3060 & 210.725.6335, Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food

To Varoulko

Jack in the Box

DKNY

Pireos 80, Tel: 210.522.8400 Seafood prepared by Michelin star-winning chef Lefteris Lazarou

Haritos 13, Tel: 210.725.8735 Beautiful wooden toys and more

Solonos 8, Tel: 210.360.3775 Classic American sportswear

Marie Chantal Boutique

Elina Lebessi

Spefsippou 11, Tel: 210.722.2029 Old-fashioned chic for little princes and princesses

Iraklitou 13, Tel: 210.363.1731 Ethereal frocks, pretty tea-dresses and accessories from around the world

Mouyer

Ermenegildo Zegna

Kanari 8, Tel: 210.361.7714 Good-quality orthopaedic shoes as well as funkier styles

Skoufa 18, Tel: 210.361.3700 Home of fine fabrics and handsome tailor-finished suits

Kolonaki

Milos

SHOP ANTIQUES Kilim Hali Valaoritou 9 Tel: 210.363.7056 www.kilimhali.gr Antique carpets from around the world

BEAUTY & COSMETICS Apivita

Kanari 24, Tel: 210.362.7334 Fairytale dresses in lace and embroidery from Greece's doyenne designer

Hugo Boss Amerikis 19, Tel: 210.360.0516 Smart separates for a work wardrobe Kanari 8, Tel: 210.362.7768 Menswear from Armani, Boss and Allen Edmonds brogues

Kalogirou

Frattina Kanari 21, Tel: 210.360.4481 Casual clothing and gifts for kids Bespoke Athens

Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1801 Indoor and outdoor pools

Olive Tree Spa Chatzigiani Mexi 4 Tel: 210.724.4425

EAT Funky Gourmet

Bespoke Athens Anagnostopoulou 15-17 Tel: 210.364.5518, Made-to-measure suits and shirts from top international tailors

Athiri

Kanari 18, Tel: 210.361.4155 Greece's design ambassadors create structural separates and heavenly bridal gowns. www.deuxhommes.gr

Agisilaou 61B, Tel: 210.346.2077 Burgers, a private cinema & an artsy crowd. Open for brunch on Sundays at noon

Kathy Heyndels Patriarchou Ioakeim 21 Tel: 210.729.9966 Greek label selling barely-there gowns and basics with a twist

Kanari 12, Tel: 210.362.7123 Designer items from Prada, Brioni, Donna Karan, Fendi and other top-flight brands

Coach

Nixon

Patriarchou Ioakim 4, Tel: 210.335.6401 Fetish footwear from Prada, Tod's & Casadei

Carouzos

Paramythias 13 and Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 2727 Haute cuisine in art deco interior Plataion 15, Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings

Giorgio Armani

Incrocio

Kanari 5, Tel: 210.339.2597 Designer togs for tots

Hiltonia Health & Wellness Club

Voukourestiou 50 Tel: 210.364.1308 A haven of hip, carrying labels from Balenciaga to Martin Margiela to Marlene Birger

CHILDREN Galaxy Bar

Kerameikos

Atelier Loukia

Free Shop

Koumbari 8, Tel: 210.361.3603 Suit- and dress-maker to the stars

Bambineria

CHILL

FASHION

Solonos 26 Tel: 210.364.0560 Shop natural Greek cosmetics, get a prescription cream made up and have a quick massage

DRINK Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402 Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere

Central Athens

Tsakalof 28, Tel: 210.362.5669 Leather totes and luggage in easy American style

Deux Hommes

Diesel Skoufa 3, Tel: 210.362.2748 A treasure trove of denim, and all the hip accoutrements to go with it

Dior Boutique Voukourestiou 18-20, Tel: 210 361.3014 High-end designer fashion

insider athens | December 2011 69

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

La Perla

Preview

Spefsippou 14, Tel: 210.729.9720 Lingerie to flaunt

Patriarchou Ioakim 19 Tel: 210.722.4731 High fashion designer shoes

Lacoste Solonos 5, Tel: 210.361.8030 French take on American sportswear

Lanvin Iraklitou 9 Tel: 210.360.8315 Alber Elbaz's gloriously chic take on the classic French couture house

Linea Piu Sekeri 6, Tel: 210 360.6125 Collections from exclusive fashion houses including Chanel, Galliano, Lagerfeld and Sonia Rykiel

Luisa Skoufa 15, Tel: 210.363.5600 Designer emporium stocked with Chloe, Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, Missoni & more

Marc by Marc Jacobs Xanthou 3, Tel: 210.363.6030 Budget knick-knacks and must-have casuals from America's fashion hero

Nike Tsakalof 34, Tel: 210.363.6188 Trainers, tracksuits and other swoosh-marked sports paraphernalia

Puma Concept Kanari 17, Tel: 210.361.0516 International sportswear for all ages

Rere Papa Skoufa 62, Tel: 210.364.4300 Distinctive creations by two young Greek women and other international imports

Thalassa Collection Patriarchou Ioakim 30-32 Tel: 210.725.8525 Original silk designs for scarves, ties, shawls & blouses

Christofle Koumbari 5, Tel: 210.362.0483 Classis silver and crystal ideal for wedding gifts

La Fenetre Irodotou 21, Tel: 210.723.5029 Elegant objects and sophisticated gifts for the house, mostly from France

Parousiasi Patriarchou Ioakim 33, Tel: 210.723.7656, A range of international brands in crystal, china and other eye-catching homeware accessories

JEWELLERY

Vlassis Holevas

Apriati

Anagnostopoulou 19 Tel: 210.361.6167, Elegant fashion with a contemporary twist

Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Elena Votsi

FLOWERS Fleria Patriarchou Ioakim 35 Tel: 210.722.9697

Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation-starting pieces in gold and stone

Fanourakis

FOOD & WINE

Patriarchou Ioakim 23 Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings

Cava Anthidis

Folli Follie

Ypsilantou 13-15, Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers

Kylix Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards; including Greek labels

Wine Garage Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175 Browser-friendly cava with helpful service

Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Tel: 210.323.0739, Greece's highstreet export stocks affordable watches and everyday bijoux

Liana Vourakis Anagnostopoulou 26-8 Tel: 210.362.2564 For unique baptism and wedding gifts, start here

Lylian Syrigou

GADGETS

Anagnostopoulou 12, Tel: 210.361.3350 Handcrafted bijoux and one-off designer pieces. www.liliansyrigou.gr

Octopus

Magia

Eclipse

Solonos 15, Tel: 210.363 6677 Quirky designs with a sense of humour

GIFTS

Observatory Attitudes Solonos 9, Tel: 210.364.6910 The ultimate fashion store www.attitudes.gr

Vas. Sofias & Koumbari Tel: 210.367.1045, Artefacts and jewellery inspired by the museum’s exhibits

Paul & Shark

Liana Vourakis

Anagnostopoulou 6, Tel: 210.339.2334 Casual yachting styles

Pindarou 42, Tel. 2103617705

70 insider athens | December 2011

HOME

Benaki Museum Gift Shop

Haritos 18, Tel: 210.724.0697 Ileana Makri's silver jewellery amid eclectic pieces from New York

Oxette Skoufa 37, Tel: 210.339.0547 Trendy, affordable jewellery

Central Athens EAT BAKERIES & PATISSERIES Cake Irodotou 15, Tel: 210.721.2253 For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more

Fresh Kriezotou 12, Tel: 210.364.2948/ Loukianou 21, Tel: 210.729.3453 Desserts and cakes

RESTAURANTS 7 Thalasses Omirou 11, Tel: 210.362.4825 Fresh fish with refined service

Al Milanese Xenokratous 49, Tel: 210.729.4111 Authentic Italian cuisine for the discerning

Altamira (Multi-ethnic) Tsakalof 36A, Tel: 210 361 4695 Flavours of multiethnic cuisine

Altro Haritos 39, Tel: 210.724.2717 Tiny funky restaurant that specializes in Italian food

Boschetto Evangelismos Park, Tel: 210.721.0893 Italian food in a lush central setting

Cafe Boheme Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails

Coo Dinokratous 1, Tel: 210.725.4008 A Mykonos favourite now in Athens

Dakos Tsakalof 6, Tel: 210.894.7040 New-age Cretan specialties

Eclipse (Bar restaurant) Alopekis 21, Tel: 210 364 1545 Fabulous cocktails and creative Mediterranean cuisine by Yiannis Baxevannis

Filipou Xenokratous 19, Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes

Frame

Skoufa 30, Tel: 210.364.2139 Greek silver fashion jewellery

St George Lycabettus Hotel Dinokratous, Tel: 210.721.4368 Exotic cuisine in the heart of Athens

Van Cleef & Arpels

Freud Oriental

Ozzi

Voucourestiou 1, Tel: 210.331.0319 The jeweller of the international jetset

Xenokratous 21, Tel: 210.729.9595 Sushi in a cool setting

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Central Athens

Inbi

P-BOX

TGI Friday’s

Iraklitou 21, Tel: 210.339.2090 Sushi fusion

Haritos 24, Periscope hotel Tel: 210 7298556, Simple ingredients, special flavours in a setting designed

by Theodore Zoumboulakis

Kolokotroni 35, Kefalari sq.

Tel: 210.623.3945 American restaurant with real steak and barbecue sauce!

TEA

Pizza Pommodoro

DRINK

Milioni 4, Tel: 210.361.6098 Gourmet burgers with all the fixings

Kalamaki Kolonaki Ploutarhou 32, Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy

Kiku Dimokritou 12, Tel: 210.364.7033 Fresh, beautifully presented sushi

L'Abreuvoir Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine

Le Grand Balcon St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.729.0711 Gourmet Greek cuisine

Alopekis 9, Tel: 210.729.6500 Great Italian specialties

BARS, CLUBS & LOUNGES

CHILL

Central

La Prairie Day Spa

Milioni 7, Tel: 210.364.3353 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.724.5938 The place to see & be seen while sipping on coffee or cocktails

Kanari 24, Tel: 210.360.1550 High-tech beauty treatments in a clinical setting

Ratka

Mai Tai

Prytaneion

Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine

Ploutarhou 18, Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a laid-back atmosphere

Sale e Pepe

Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.321.7836 One of the most popular hot spots in town

Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria

Ten

W Kanari 24, Tel: 697.270.0712 Private seating areas, speciality cocktails & exclusives events

CAFÉS Da Capo Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.243.3902 Long-established people-watching hangout

Peros Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot

Magirevontas ti Mesoghio Vissarionos 9, Tel: 210.338.97.41 Authentic home cooked food with mediterranean flavors for just 15 euros per person

Mi Sueno Akadimias 30, Tel: 210.361.6271 Tapas & other Spanish specialties

Orizontes Lycavyttou Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065.

Gourmet dining with a spectacular view

DRINK Balthazar Tsoha 27, Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd

Baraonda Tsoha 43, Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats

Briki Dorileou 6, Mavili sq.

Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout

Flower Dorileou 2, Mavili sq.

Tel: 210.643.2111, Fun, funky and affordable watering hole

Scala Vinoteca Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining

Showroom Milioni 12, Tel: 210.364.6460 Missoni-designed interiors, serving unique Mediterranean flavours

Square Sushi

Karneadou 25-26, Tel: 210.729.5484 Traditional Greek appetizers & ouzo

Deinokratous 65, Tel: 210.725.5236 High-quality sushi & other Japanese favourites

Papadakis

Ta Kioupia

Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros' legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens

Dinokratous & An Polemou 22 Tel: 210.740.0150 Superb set menu of Greek classics with refined touches

Ouzadiko

Soutsou & Likavitou, Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world

Mavili Sq

Jackson Hall

To Tsai

insider athens | December 2011 71

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Brachera

Avissynias 3, Tel: 210.321.7202 Traditional Greek recipes with a European twist overlooking the Acropolis & Observatory

Café Avyssinias

Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7407 Spcializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends

Doris

Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2671 Hearty stews & pasta dishes at reasonable prices

Pangrati

Central Athens SHOP BEAUTY & COSMETICS Korres Ivikou 8 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.722.2774 Natural Greek products made using Mediterranean herbs

Kol Tuv

Normanou 4, Tel: 210.524.4049 The only kosher restaurant in Athens serving traditional shabat meals

EAT

Meïdanis

Evforionos 13 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.756.6008, Greek cuisine with a menu that changes daily

Sokratous 3 & Evripidou Tel: 210.324.9073, A menu that is sure to please with speciality oven dishes

Savvas

Mitropoleos 86, Tel: 210.321.9919 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali

Fuga Vas.Sofias & Kokkali 1, Tel: 210 724 2979 Italian inspired menu by chef Andrea Berton at the Athens Concert Hall

Ginger Dorileou 10-12, Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere

St’Astra

Metaxurgeio

Alexadras 10, Tel: 210.889.4500 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience

SHOP ANTIQUES Darousos Normanou 7 Tel: 210.331.1638 Small antique shop in the heart of the flea market

FOOD & WINE Arapian Evripidou 41, Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offers interesting sausages, pasturma & smoked meats

Bahar

Evripidou 31, Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven

Miran

EAT

Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats

Polly Maggoo

Paleovivliopolio Hiotakis

Leonidou 80 & Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 1120 Gourmet cuisine in a post-modern and industrial setting.

New hot spot for the trendy

72 insider athens | December 2011

Karavitis

Thanassis

Magemenos Avlos

Mitropoleos 69, Tel: 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise

To Kouti

Amynta 4, Tel: 210.722.3195 Mediterranean fare, welcoming decor & generous servings

Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora

Puerte de Espana

DRINK

Spondi

Orea Ellas

Pandrosou 36, Tel: 210.321.3842 An eclectic cafe & bookshop

EAT

EAT

Bacaro

Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare

Efroniou 5, Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip Arktinou & Pausaniou Tel: 210.721.5155 Classic Greek cuisine in a dining room lined with wine casks

Normanou 7 Tel: 210.324.7835 Historic bookshop houses rare & old books

Bairaktaris

Fatsio

Monastiraki Sq. 2, Tel: 210.321.3036 Century-old restaurant serving a variety of fresh dishes

Sigalas-Bairaktaris

Omonia

EAT

Monastiraki

Fuga

Cucina Povera

Antinoros 42, Tel: 210.725.8666 Spanish cuisine & live music Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021 A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens

SHOP DEPARTMENT STORES Hondos Center

Omonia Square, Tel: 210.528.2800 Cosmetics, perfumes, luggage, clothing, & much, much more

Ideal Restaurant

Panepistimiou 46, Tel: 210.330.3000 Greek classics in old-world decor Sophokleous 1 & Aristidou Tel: 210.321.1882, Lavish Italian and contemporary dishes

Athinaikon

Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri

Spondi

Trata o Stelios Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9, Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town

Plaka

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr SHOP

HOME

ANTIQUE

Notoshome

STORES

Kratinou 5, Tel: 210.374.3000 Home décor superstore

Maritinos Pandrosou 50 Tel: 210.321.2414 Specializes in 19th Century folk art, embroidery & furniture

FOOD & WINE

EAT Cantuccio Lepeniotou & Ivis 1 Tel: 210.323.3670 Authentic Italian cuisine in a friendly environment

Diporto

Nikis 52, Tel: 210.322.9146 Packaged & fresh speciality foods

Theatrou & Sokratous Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava

GIFTS

Kouzina Cine-Psirri

Mesogaia

Amorgos Kodrou 3, Tel: 210.324.3836 Hand-carved & painted furniture

Sari 44, Tel: 210.321.5534 Mediterranean fare & eclectic music

Nara Nara Karaiskaki 26, Tel: 210.331.2091 Lebanese food & dancing

EAT

Ochre & Brown

2 Mazi

Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine

Daphne’s Restaurant Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere

Electra Nikodimou 18-20, Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine

Platanos Diogenous 4, Tel: 210.322.0666 One of the few remaining tavernas preserving 1940s Athens

Scholarheio Tripodon 14, Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices

Ydria

Psyrri

Adrianou 68 & Eolou Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine

SHOP

BOOKS

GADGETS

Eleftheroudakis

Public

Panepistimiou 17, Tel: 210.325.8440 The largest foreign language bookstore in Greece

Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.324.6210, Five floors of gaming, gadgets & books

Kauffman Stadiou 28, Tel: 210.322.2160 Mostly French books and small selection of English fiction

DEPARTMENT STORES

DRINK

Attica

BARS, CLUBS & LOUNGES

Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods

Soul

Fokas

Evripidou 65, Tel: 210.331.0907 Show off your groovy disco moves

Syntagma

Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly

Central Athens

SHOP ACCESSORIES Bag Stories

Stadiou 41, Tel: 210.325.7770 Clothes, shoes and accessories for men, women & children

Stock House & Travel Ermou 45, Tel: 210.324.7732 Outlet store featuring brands from Parousiasi, Cook Shop & Bag Stories

GIFTS Argalios Filellinon 7, Tel: 210.322.2659 Hand-woven fabrics & souvenirs since 1940

Graf Von Faber-Castell Boutique Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.321.8564 Traditional hand-held writing utensils

Kori Mitropoleos 13, Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery

Psarros 1917 Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.322.0908 Executive gifts and smoking accessories

HOME

Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.323.7405 Luggage & travel bags by Tumi, Porsche Design, Rimowa & Delsey

FASHION - MEN’S

ANTIQUES

FLOWERS

JEWELLERY

Antiqua

Dromoloulouda

Apriati

Vassilis Amalias 2-4, Tel: 210.323.2220 One of the oldest antique stores in Athens

FASHION Christoforos Kotentos

BEAUTY & COSMETICS

Sachtouri 3, Tel: 210.325.5434 Glamorous & unique designs

MAC Ermou 44, Tel: 210.325.8260 International cosmetic brand for women who like to play with colour

Pagoni Akadimias 61, Tel: 210.363.9277 Selling ties and cufflinks since 1933

Voulis 15, Tel: 210.323.2321 Specializing in arrangements with wild flowers, many indigenous to Greece

FOOD & WINE Aristokratikon Karageorgi Servas 9, Tel: 210.322.0546 Handmade chocolates

Cellier Kriezotou 1, Tel: 210.361.0040 Speciality wine shop

Baccarat Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.2863 Fine crystal from the venerable French luxury house

Pentelis 9 & Mitropoleos, Tel: 210.322.9020 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Bulgari Voukourestiou 8, Tel: 210.324.7118 Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories

Cartier Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison

insider athens | December 2011 73

Insider guide Gofas

Vassilis Zoulias Old Athens

DRINK

Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.331.7540 High-end timepieces

Akadimias 30, Tel: 210.361.4762 Handmade shoes and handbags inspired by films of the 50s & 60s

BARS, CLUBS & LOUNGES

Ilias Lalaounis

Filellinon 15, Tel: 210.323.1315 Popular Athenian night spot

Cellier Le Bistrot

Explorer’s Lounge

Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.363.8525 Excellent dishes accompany the extensive list of international wines

NJV Athens Plaza, Syntagma Square, 210.335.2400, Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere

Marathianakis

Dosirak

Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.7118 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs

Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Korean cuisine in the heart of Athens

Zolotas

Nikis 58 & Kydathynaion Tel: 210.322.2839 Traditional Greek cuisine combined with modern elements

Kessaris

Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the antique & classical periods as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso

To Ergastirio to Baxevani

Far East Stadiou 7, Tel: 210.323.4996 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings

SHOES

Furin Kazan

Folli Follie

Spiliopoulos

Ermou 18, Tel: 210.323.0739 Trendy & affordable jewellery & accessories

Ermou 63, Tel: 210.322.7590 Pick up a pair of Manolo’s at half price!

Apollonos 2, Tel: 210.322.9170 A Japanese favourite of expats & Athenians alike

Club Eat

See

The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Syntagma Square recommends:

GB Corner Hotel Grand Bretagne Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0750 Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine

Ioannis Royal Olympic Hotel Ath. Diakou 28-34, Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop

George Economou collection at the new municipal gallery in Metaxourgeio

Multi 22

Spondi, 2 star Michelin restaurant in Pangrati Cibus for Greek cuisine and Acropolis view in the Nat.Gardens Varoulko Michelin star with gourmet fish cuisine in Gazi Papadakis good island cuisine in Kolonaki

Noodle Bar

Vanilla Club at Kanari 24 Villa Mercedes at Andronicou & Zafeiri 11, Rouf Messiah Rebirth at Karneadou 25 in Kolonaki Baraonda, Tsocha 43, Ambelokoipi

74 insider athens | December 2011

Boutique

EAT

Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller

Chopard

Central Athens

Ermou 116 & Leokoriou Tel: 210.331.6766 Italian fare served in a neoclassical house Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix

Parliament Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 International cuisine with Mediterranean accents

Paul Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie

Kalua Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment

T Palace King George Palace Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.322.2210 Sophisticated atmosphere for mingling & people-watching

CHILL GB Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0799 Award-winning spa featuring treatments by E’SPA, Valmont & Algoane

Holmes Place Stadiou 4 & Voukourestiou Tel: 210.325.9400, Fully equipped health club with excellent array of classes

The Palace Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.374.3590 Ideal for rejuvenation after a long flight or a hectic bout of shopping

Syngrou

Zolotas pendant in gold with diamonds

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

EAT Peacock Hotel Hera, Falirou 9, Tel: 210 923 6682 Traditional food with an inventive dash and breathtaking Acropolis views

Kollias

Syngrou Ave. 303 Tel: 210 940 8620 Diverse excellent seafood in a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr Plous Podilatou

Syngrou Ave. 156, Tel: 210 923 2918 Original seafood dishes, fresh ingredients and simple elegant interior

Ak. Koumoundourou 42 Tel: 210.413.7910 Sumptuous seafood & mouth-watering deserts on the waterfront

Kona Kai Athens Ledra Marriott, Syngrou Ave. 115, Tel: 210 930 0000 Polynesian, Teppanyaki and Sushi cuisine in an original luxury setting

Café Zoe

Tony Bonano Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93 Casual dining and terrific buffets for lunch and on Sundays Tel: 210 920 6655

Vassilenas

Première

Ak. Koumoundourou 48 Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay

EAT

Zorbas Ak. Koumoundourou 14 Tel: 210.411.1163 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean

Indian Masala (Indian) Ermou 129, Tel: 210 321 9412 Amazing Indian food at affordable price in a pleasant environment

Kirki Apostoplou Pavlou 31 Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break

Kuzina Adrianou 9, Tel: 210.324.0133 Inspired traditional recipes in a cozy arty environment

SOUTHERN ATHENS

Piraeus

Zefyros

EAT Captain John's Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood

Dourambeis Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna

Jimmy and The Fish

Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084.

Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada

Kollias Plastira 3, Tel: 210.462.9620 Excellent seafood but difficult to find; reserve on weekends

DRINK

FOOD & WINE

Big Apple South

All about Whisky

Posidonos 1, Tel: 210.948.5190 Casual cocktails in a modern atmosphere

Zinc “Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Cocktails whith music

Zythos Eleftherias 45, Tel: 210.985.0478 Reminiscent of an Irish pub with several beers to choose from

Ak. Dilaveri 15, Tel: 210.407.8861 Playing disco & techno tracks until 6am

Vas. Georgiou B' 10 Tel: 210.968.1191, Specialty shop with a large selection of single malts, books, & anything to do with whisky

Provence Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen

EAT Ache

SHOP

Kypriou 57, Tel: 210.894.2949 International cuisine & delectable deserts

BOOKS

Aioli Restaurant

Eleftheroudakis Lazaraki 27, Tel: 210.325.8440 Book superstore with a large selection of English titles

FASHION Enny di Monaco

Iguana

Artemidos 9, Tel: 210.894.0181 Mediterranean cuisine with an excellent “secret” seafood sauce

Amigos

Kyprou 65A, Tel: 210.898.3167 Mexican flavours in a friendly setting

Bayern Bierhaus Microbrewery Chr. Nezer 19, Tel: 210.894.4439 Authentic German cuisine

Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.894.0153 Carefully selected designs by various international designers

Beer Academy

Ensayar Donna

Beirut

N. Zerva 14, Tel: 210.898.0121 International cuisine in a cozy setting

Istioploikos Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina

Katafigio Ak. Koumoundourou 4 Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house

Faliro

Thissio

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel : 210 920 6981 Gourmet cuisine with splendid views

Etolikou 72 & Vitolion Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere

DRINK

Glyfada

AiNikolas

Southern & Northern Athens

EAT Il Tinello Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cooking

Iskandar

Amphitheas 6 & Poseidonos Tel: 210.988.6474 Authentic Indian cuisine

Kitchen Bar

Kyprou 55, Esperidon Square Tel: 210.894.3034 Top lines from leading designers with an English touch

Obervatory Attitudes A. Panagouli 17, Tel: 210.894.2113 The ultimate fashion store www.attitudes.gr

Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Comfort food overlooking the sea

JEWELLERY

Le Petit Sommelier

ZerTeo

Zaimi 6, Tel: 210.984.2344 French cuisine & excellent wine list

Metaxa 24-26, Tel: 210.894.6682 Unique jewellery designs

Saki Karayiorya 13, Tel: 210.894.3169 Lebanese cuisine & entertainment

Bereket Mikras Asias & Lefkosias 36 Tel: 210.960.9337 Traditional dishes from Asia Minor

Far East Lazaraki 61, Tel: 210.894.0500 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings

insider athens | December 2011 75

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Kiliza

Vincenzo

Konstantinopoleos 13 Tel: 210.894.4648 Delicious kebabs & decadent deserts

Giannitsopoulou 1, Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch

Southern & Northern Athens

La Casa Di Giorgino Lefkosias 42A, Tel: 210.963.85770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven

DRINK

La pêche

Babae

Meat Square (Grill) Lambrakis 63 & Ag. Nikolaou, Tel: 210 961 1160 Juicy steaks in pleasant family environment

Molly Malone's Zannitsopoulou 8, Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens

Tartare Panagouli 52, Tel: 210.968.0320 Quality French cuisine

Posidonos 88, Tel: 210.894.1629 Beachfront dancing all night long

Balux Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging

Capri Bay Grigoriou Lambraki 2 Tel: 210.894.9995, Excellent cocktails in a Moroccan style garden

CAFES Chocolat Zisimopoulou 9, Tel: 210.894.3442 Satisfies even the most discerning coffee connoisseur

Cosi

Il Segreto

Zisimopoulou 12, Tel: 210.894.5746 One of the first cafes to inspireGlyfada's coffee culture

Bizaniou 3, Tel: 210.965.9526 Authentic Italian set on a beautiful terrace

Nest Café Bar

CHILL

Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.898.6035 An all-day hangout for locals & visitors

Seiza Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.968.0545 Cafe with a unique style & hip design

STREET Bar Restaurant is the new all-day meeting point in Neo Psychico. Specialities served include authentic juicy burgers, big healthy salads, perfectly- grilled meat, and last but not least, truly tempting desserts. (Tel. 2106710688) Funky Gourmet: In the warm and living restaurant environment, the chefs offer their guests a carefully designed menu of a modern creative cuisine based on advanced culinary techniques and always featuring top quality seasonal ingredients. (Tel. 2105242727) Salon de Bricolage: The members-only club aims at the promotion of art, gastronomy, winery, and entertainment, as well as wellbeing and conjectural arts.

Visit the Acropolis museum with a private tour guide and enjoy lunch at Dionysos a landmark venue, globally well known as the restaurant under Acropolis. The unique view adds an exceptional value to Dionysos, combined to high quality service and cuisine. (Tel. 2109233182)

76 insider athens | December 2011

Posidonos 58A, Tel: 210.898.3577 A beach house turned lounge with all the amenities of a home.

LIVE MUSIC Thalassa People's Stage Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.2979 Live Greek acts in a club atmosphere attracting a young crowd

Voula

To do Chill

Eat

The House Project

EAT Dream Grill V. Pavlou 78, Tel: 210.895.5110 Traditional recipes & authentic taste

Dvlcis in Fvndo Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic

Vari Sports Club Vari-Koropiou & Kalamatos 1 Tel: 210.899.0048 www.varisportsclub.com

Vouliagmeni

Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.894.1620 Creative seafood dishes combining Greek & French techniques

BARS, CLUBS & LOUNGES

EAT Café Tabac

Margi Hotel, Litous 11, Tel: 210.967.0924 Delicious variations of Mediterranean food

Da Luciano

Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.2217 Trattoria serving traditional Italian dishes & pizza

Al Fresco The Westin, 40, Tel: 210.890.1709, Enjoy a romantic meal of creative Italian cuisine

Grill Room

Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1794, Mediterranean & seafood flavours on a breathtaking veranda, in the Astir complex

Italian

Ithaki

Genovese

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747 Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood & great service

Vas. Pavlou 99, Tel: 210.895.8400 Italian eats al fresco

Naiades Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint

Louizidis Ermou 2, Tel: 210.896.0591 Traditional Greek taverna popular with the locals

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Matsuhisa Athens Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.896.0510, Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair

Mezza Luna Orpheos 2, Tel: 210.967.1046 Chic Italian restaurant

Mythos of the Sea Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood

Oro Toro Varis-Koropiou 73, Tel: 210.899.4514 A taste of Argentinian cuisine in a cosy atmosphere

Psaraki Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Seafood served in an informal setting

Schara Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Grills with frills in a friendly setting at reasonable prices

Waffle House Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth

DRINK En Plo Posidonos 4, Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay

NORTHERN ATHENS EAT Da Vinci Ag. Ioannou 23, Tel: 210 600 0102 Delightful dishes in fantastic ambience

Nanninela Peloponnissou 13 Tel: 210 600 5622 Authentic Italian cuisine in traditional decor Ag. Ioannou 63, Tel: 210 639 1666, Mediterranean flavours in a chic interior

EAT Apsendi Kifissias 250-254 & Serres Tel: 210 671 7890 Refined cuisine and cocktails in stylish urban atmosphere Pendelis 133, Tel: 210 689 0238 Choice of 600 wines to accompany memorable meals

Almyra Filikis Eterias 39, Tel: 210 6819109 Refined seafood and magical summer garden

27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3809 Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location with views of the Saronic Gulf

Kifissias 336, Tel: 210 685 4004 Multi-ethnic cuisine with original suggestions in arty set-up

Sofa Bar

Ag. Georgiou 30’B, Tel: 210 685 9690 Mexican food in traditional setting

Arion Spa Astir Complex, Apollonos 40 Tel: 210.890.2000

Divani Apollon Palace & Spa Ag. Nikolaou 10, Tel: 210.891.1100

Saipan K. Varnali 9, Tel: 210 685 0644 Exquisite dishes from China, Japan and Indonesia

1920 Ag. Paraskevi 110, Tel: 210 681 3029 Accent on meat in an elegant setting

Psaroma Sokratous 23, Tel: 210 683 9348 Imaginative parade of seafood and fresh fish

L’Enoteca

Dali

CHILL

25th Martiou 21, Tel: 210 689 6891 Authentic Italian cuisine with a modern twist

Olio by Portofino

Island

The Westin Hotel Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1709 Modern lounge bar serving up delectable cocktails

Novo Romantico di Antonio

Kifissia

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely

Halandri Ag.Paraskevi

Maistrali

Southern & Northern Athens

SHOP BEAUTY &

Bakaliko Ola Ta Kala Kifissias 238-240, Mela Shopping Centre, Tel: 210.808.9908 Quality Greek delicacies

Il Salumaio di Montena Poleone Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Milan based company selling high quality produce

Sorpresa Italiana Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more

Stefanidis Finest Foods Dimitrios Square 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen

Varsos

COSMETICS

Kassaveti 5, Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie

Nyhi-Nyhi

Vinifera

Kifissias 230 Tel: 210.623.2824 Stop by for a quick mani-pedi

Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from all over the world

FASHION

EAT

21 Kifissia

Acqua Azzurra

Kifissias 265, Tel: 210.801.3594 Extreme sport parafernelia

Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals

Gap Kifissias 328, , Tel: 210.623.1571 Casual American fashion

Vassilis Zoulias Argyropoulou 1-3, Tel: 210.801.7023 Unique designs reminiscent of times past

FOOD & WINE Aristokratikon Argyropoulou 8, , Tel: 210.801.6533 Decadent handmade chocolates

Apla 135 Charilaou Trikoupi Tel: 210.620.3102 Chrysanthos Karamolegos creates refined Mediterranean dishes

Barceloneta Kifissias 267, Tel: 210.801.3448 Spanish cuisine in a fun atmosphere

Berdema Vas Amalias 20, Tel: 210.801.3853 Traditional dishes from Greece & Asia Minor

Santa Fe

Golden Phoenix Leof. Pendelis 85, Tel: 210 682 5017 Asian cuisine and sushi bar in luxury environment

Kitchen Bar K. Varnali 6,, Tel: 210 689 2015 Delightful gastronomic tour in a relaxing atmosphere

Meat Square Ethnikis Antistaseos 9-11, Tel: 210 683 1300, Juicy steaks in pleasant family environment

Matsuhisa

insider athens | December 2011 77

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Northern Athens

Common Secret

Nargile

Tike

Aneton

Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting

Harilaou Trikoupi 50 Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambiance

Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s

Dos Hermanos

O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas

Harilaou Trikoupi 27, Tel: 210.808.4418 Watch chefs prepare Turkish kebabs and other treats before your eyes

Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas

Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices

Vardis

Ethnikis Antistaseos & Psaron 1 Tel: 210.684.0460 Mexican flavours in a traditional setting

Dragoumi & Andrianou 28 Tel: 210 623 3900, Gourmet cuisine with Mediterranean influences by chef Christos Markopoulos in a cool urban setting

Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.800.1402 Divine food from all over the world

Piazza Mela Kifissias 238, Mela Shopping Centre Tel: 210.623.6596, Classic & traditional Italian dishes

Prytaneion Kolokotroni 37, Tel: 210.808.9160 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Golden Phoenix

Royal Thai

Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet

Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2322 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting

Gourounakia Kifissias

Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Authentic Italian food & fabulous deserts

Kifissias 289, Tel: 210.801.1093 Delicious salads, appetizers, souvlakia & grilled platters

Ichthyes Evagelistrias 36, Tel: 210.620.1572 Seafood taverna

Kastelorizo Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please

Meat Me HarilaouTrikoupi 92 Tel: 210.623.2358 Simple yet discerning cuisine in a funky Greek taverna

Mauzac

78 insider athens | December 2011

Salumaio di Atene

Semiramis Restaurant Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere

Shogun Philadelpheos 2, Tel: 210.623.3622 Promises authentic Japanese cuisine for the truly discerning

Boudoir Deligianni 50 & Georganta Tel: 210.801.8384, Massive club for dancing & sipping on signature cocktails

Divine Kifissias 239, Tel: 201.801.0810 Chic lounge serving classic concoctions

Menta CafĂŠ Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe

Telemachos Barbeque Club

EAT

Fragkopoulou 22, Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection

Altamira

El Taco Bueno

Jaipur Palace

DRINK

Maroussi

Essence

Deligianni 66, Pentelikon Hotel Tel: 210.623.0650-6, Cornerstone of French cuisine in Greece

SHOP Golden Hall Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and highstreet) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion

The Mall Athens Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food

Perikleous 28, Tel: 210 612 8841 Multiethnic cuisine in funky environment

Ag. Konstantinou & Themidos Tel: 210.805.2762 Indian cuisine and fine wines

Leptes Gefseis Fine French food at affordable prices Pindou 22, Pefki, Tel: 210.802.4817

Mauzac Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this cafĂŠ, bar, restaurant a must

Oinopathia Aghias Paraskevis 79 & Diogenous Tel: 210.685.5375, Great selection of wines with Greek and international cuisine

Pausa Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines

Wagamama Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.683.6844 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting

Whispers of wine Ag. Konstantinou 48, Tel: 210.617.9051 Gourmet food with rich wine list and vintage decor

see & do Art galleries

A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psirri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Agalma Troyman, 11635 Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., 106 75 Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938 Badminton Theatre Olympiaka Akinita, Goudi 157 73, Athens, Tel: 211 101 0020 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thisseio, Tel: 210.341.3935 Beyond Art Gallery Haritos 10, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.9744 B&M Theoharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens Tel: 210.361.1206 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxourgio, Tel: 210.331.7527 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a, 10671 Athens, Greece Tel: 210 360 7598 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Vas. Georgiou B 17 - 19 & Rigilis Str. Athens 10675, Tel: 210 9242 111-3 Fizz Gallery Valaoritou 9c, Athens 10671 Greece, Tel: 210 360 7598 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens 10671, Tel: 210 364 0215 Gallery 7 Zalokosta 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.2050 Gialino Music Theatre Sigrou 143, N. Smirni, Athens Tel: 210 9316 101-4 Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st.

11471 Athens, Tel: 210 643 9466 Jill Yakas Spartis 16, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.2773 www.yakas.com K-Art Gallery Sina 54, 106 72, Athens, Greece Tel: 211 401 3877 Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679 Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Tel: 210.642.6573 ww.gallerykourd.gr

Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 201.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries.

Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. Kastorias 34-36, Votanikos. Tel: 210.348.0000.

Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street. Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting.

Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works.

Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589.

Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that marked the boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues.

Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos.

Tel: 210.321.0185.

Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens.

Tel: 210.923.1502 www.spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502 www.history-museum.uoa.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue Tel: 210.367.1000, www.benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos. Tel: 210.325.1311 www.benaki.gr

Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou Tel: 210.345.3111, www.benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Tel: 210.721.1027.

Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. www.hellenic-cosmos.gr Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, Tel: 210.323.4678 www.frissirasmuseum.com Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Tel: 210.722.8321 www.cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio.

Tel: 210-346.1981. www.herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni.

Tel: 210.922.7260. www.lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka. Tel: 210.322.5582. www.jewishmuseum.gr Keramikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552.

Maria Callas Museum Technopolis, Pireos 100, Gazi, Tel: 210.346.1589 National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50.

Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens.

Tel: 210.363.5953. www.nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street Tel: 210.924.1043, www.theacropolismuseum.gr

Just for kids

Tel: 210.322.9705

Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali.

Tel: 210.728.2333 Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am.

Panathenian Stadium “Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden.

Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”.

Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory.

Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries.

Irodou Attikou Street.

Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma (Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changingof-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour.

Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian's Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330.

Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed.

Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora.

Tel: 210.324.5220.

Museums

ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES

Pallas Theatre Skoufa 77 & Staikou 2, Kolonaki Athens, Tel: 210 364 0783 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Tel: 210. 364.0288 The Art Foundation (TAF) Normanou 5, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.323.8757 The Eynard Mansion Aghiou Konstantinou 20 & Menandrou, Athens 104 31, Tel: 210 322 1335 The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 - Vas. Constantinou 1, 115 28 Athens, Tel: 210-7235857 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati, Tel: 210.729.7644 Tsatsis Project/ Artforum 12 Mitropoleos st. & Venizelou PC 54624 Thessaloniki, Tel: 231 025 7552 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, 105 52 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210 331 9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278 Zoumboulakis Gallery Graphics & Editions Kriezotou 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454

Attractions & Sites

ORGANISED TOURS

Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis, Tel: 210.425.6999, www.allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2995.

Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.801.5870, www.gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows!

Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, Tel: 210.322.9031 Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.22621 www.childrensartmuseum.gr

Summit The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.0093, www.summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000 http://www.westinathens.com/en/westin_kids_club/

insider athens | December 2011 79

partner hotels ARION RESORT & SPA

ATHENS LEDRA MARRIOTT HOTEL

DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS

METROPOLITAN

The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants.

Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

314 deluxe guest rooms, 18 suites. Rooftop swimming pool and bar, health club, Kona Kai Polynesian - Tepanyiaki Restaurant and sports bar. Syngrou 115. Tel: 210.930.0000

Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view. Parthenonos 19-25.

Makrigianni. Tel: 210.928.0100

Beautifully renovated property with views of the sea and the Acropolis. Ten minutes from central Athens, the port of Piraeus and main exhibition centers. Syngrou 385. Tel: 210.947.1000

NEW

GRANDE BRETAGNE

NJV ATHENS PLAZA

This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques.

Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools. Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.333.0000

Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Athens Tel: 210 3352400

HOLIDAY INN ATTICA AVENUE

NOVOTEL

New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport.

State-of-the art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center. 40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18. Tel: 210.668.9000, www.hiathens.com

The newly renovated Novotel is designed for natural living. Close to Omonoia square and the National Museum. Open plan bar and rooftop bar and restaurant and pool.4-6 Mikhail Voda Street Tel: 210.820.0700, www..novotel.com

ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS

543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space.

New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants. Syngrou 89-93. Tel: 210.920.6000

Designed by the Campana brothers, NEW, the latest venture of YES! Hotels has 79 luxury rooms, including 18 Studios and 6 Junior Suites. NEW Taste, is the Hotel’s innovative restaurant concept. Filellinon 16, Syntagma.

Tel: 210.3273000 CROWNE PLAZA

ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL

66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine.

Kallirois 32 & Petmeza. Tel: 210.921.5353 ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL

Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis.

Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking. N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka. Tel: 210.337.0000 ATHENS HILTON

Newly renovated, the former Holiday Inn Athens is at a very convenient location and attracts both business and leisure travellers.

Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking. Michalakopoulou 50.

Tel: 210.727.8000, www.cpathens.com DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA

Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa.

Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri-Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.891.1100

HOLIDAY SUITES

Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette. Arnis 4.Tel: 210.727.8000, www.holiday-suites.com

Near the Acropolis Museum. 265 rooms and 45 unique Panorama Suites, overlooking the Temple of Zeus and the Acropolis. Pool, business center, convention and banquet facilities.

Roof Garden Restaurant/Bar “Ioannis”. 28-34, Ath. Diakou Str., 11743 Athens, Greece. Tel. 210 9288400, www.royalolympic.com

KEFALARI SUITES

SEMIRAMIS

Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities. Pentelis 1, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3333

YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows.

Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant. Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia. Tel: 210.628.4400

DIVANI CARAVEL

508 renovated rooms, two pools, banquet rooms restaurants, convention facilities, business centre & spa. The rooftop Galaxy bar has gorgeous city views. Vas. Sofias 46. Tel: 210.728.1000

80 insider athens | December 2011

situated close to major tourist attractions with, rooftop restaurant and swimming pool.

Vas. Alexandrou 2, Tel: 210.720.7000

ROYAL OLYMPIC

partner hotels SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT

TWENTYONE

HERODION

COSTA NAVARINO THE WESTIN RESORT COSTA NAVARINO

Airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities. Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool. Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.354.4000 ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL

A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites. “21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining.

Kolokotroni 21, Kefalari-Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521. www.twentyone.gr

A CATEGORY

Located at the base of the Acropolis and a five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium barcoffee shop. Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni.

Tel: 210.923.6832 HOTEL ELECTRA

AVA HOTEL & SUITES

Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Rooftop swimming pool. Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.729.0711 THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL

Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka.

Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma and Monastiraki. Lysikratous street 9-11, Plaka.

Tel: 210.325.9000, www.avahotel.gr

Within walking distance from all major archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas. Ermou 5, Syntagma. Tel: 210.337.8000

Inspired by old Messinian mansions, the Westin resort’s low-rise villa clusters use natural stone and local design elements to create a motif in perfect harmony with the virgin sandy beach and pristine hillside landscape. Its 445 deluxe rooms and suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic THE ROMANOS, A LUXURY COLLECTION RESORT

PERISCOPE HOTEL

CORAL HOTEL

In an elegant neoclassical building in Kefalari, this hotel has a restaurant, bar, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet and conference facilities. Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3622-6 THE MARGI

The Coral’s 86 rooms and 2 suites offer all modern conveniences. Poseidonos Avenue 35, Paleo Faliron. Tel: 210.981.6441 FRESH HOTEL

Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests.

Café Tabac Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and J-lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne. Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts. Litous 11, Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.892.9000. www.themargi.gr THE WESTIN ATHENS

Designed for people who wish to be part of all that goes on in the city. 17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite.

Part of YES! Hotels. Haritos 22, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.729.7200, www.periscope.gr

Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are wellappointed and comfortable. Offers good value for money in the Acropolis area. Mitseon 3, Makrigianni. Tel: 210.922.3611-4

WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE YOUR Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool. Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

HOTEL LISTED HERE? CONTACT US AT: info@insider-magazine.gr

SANTORINI MYSTIQUE SANTORINI

PHILIPPOS

Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka, Psirri and Monastiraki.

Enjoy the hip Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool. Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous.

Tel: 210.524.8511-6.

The Romanos Resort boasts of 289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with individual infinity pools. Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches sets the tone in each space, where the sparkling blue of the Mediterranean is the preferred hue.

Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre. Mystique, Oia. Tel. 22860 71114 VEDEMA, SANTORINI

@ Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites. Vedema, Megalohori. Tel. 22860 81 796

insider athens | December 2011 81

AUDIOVISUAL OTE video conference service 7.30am-10pm.

Patission 85. Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399 TCS M. Antipa 20 & 2 Prometheus, Tel: 210.976.7086

COMPUTER & CELL-PHONE RENTAL TrimTel Mobile Communications Michalakopoulou 41, Tel: 210.729.1964

Denis Kasimatis - Driving School Zografou, Papagou, Ilissia, Psychiko, Cholargos and Goudi - Tel: 210 778 3157 210 779 6981 Trochokinisi Driving School 28th Oktovriou 126, Ambelokipi, Athens Tel: 231 072 9092 Driving School Highway Amfitheas and Ag. Triados 30, 175 64 Paleo Faliro - Tel: 210 988 8098 / 6997 722 777 Vlachos Bros 25th Martiou 11, Peristeri; Xenofodos 17, Peristeri; Afroditis 39, Ilion Tel: 210 574 4895 / 210 576 9190

RELOCATION AGENCIES

COMMERCIAL OFFICE SPACES Regus Tel: 210 727 9000 Global Business Services Tel: 210-8764 876 Kifissias Ave. 90, Maroussi

COURIER SERVICES ACS Tel: 210.819.0000 DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City Tel: 210.821.9959 Geniki Taxydromiki Tel: 210.485.1100 Interattika Tel: 210.540.5400 Speedex Tel: 801.11.000.11 UPS Tel: 210.998.4000

THE CITY MAGAZINE OF

DRIVING SCHOOLS IN ENGLISH

Allied Pickfords Tel: 210 610 4494 Mourouzi 7, Athens Athens Relocation Centre Tel: 210 96 50 697, Zakynthou 10, Attica Movers Tel: 210 922 7221 19, Syngrou Ave Celebrity International Movers 102, Kapodistriou Ave, Tel: 210 272 0106 Corporate Relocations Athens Tel: 210 800 3510, Ag. Saranta 32 Nea Erithrea Orphee Beinoglou Tel: 210 9466100 27th km Old National Road Athens-Korinth Location Elefsinia, GR-19200 Elefsina Omega Transport Thesi Kyrilos, 19300 Aspropyrgos Tel: 210 947 5500 Octopus Relocation Services Ygeias 7, Marina Zeas, Tel: 210 4599530

June 2010 Year 8. Issue 85 €4.50

insider ISSN 1790-3114

insider athens | June 2010

ATHENS

Summer Fest The Athens Festival’s annual culture–fest / The FIFA World Cup kicks off / Interview with Ambassador Dona Marasha Mandisa of S.Africa / Cycladic Islands Guide On the sets of The Island / Greece has talent / Designer Jans Hansson Plus: Book & Music reviews, spas, beach-side dining at Balux PLUS: ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, MAPS AND MORE

MISSED THESE GREAT ISSUES? 35.000 readers get the best of Greece each month.

Subscribe to Insider and never miss another issue! send us an e-mail at: subscriptions@insider-magazine.gr or give us a call at: 210.729.8634 or 210.721.3450

82 insider athens | December 2011

TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING Executive services, translation & interpreting All EU and Balkan languages - legal, technical and medical documents. Athens Tower B. Tel: 210.778.3698 www.executiveservices.gr Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi. Tel: 210.876.4876 IBS - International Business Services Michalakopoulou 29, Tel: 210.724.5541

TRAVEL AGENCIES Travel Plan Tel: 210 333 3300 www.travelplan.gr Amphitrion Tel: 210 900 6000 Meg Alexandrou 7 & Karaiskaki, www.amphitrionholidays.gr TravelPlanet24 Tel: 211 107 9684 241, Syngrou Ave. & 2, Alikarnassou 171 22 Nea Smyrni, Athens www.travelplanet24.com Mid-east Travel Tel: 211 211 8888 Vas Sofias 105-107 / www.mideast.gr

Embassies Cultural Institutes

Business services

useful information

French Institute Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210 339 8600 Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210 368 0900 British Council 17 Kolonaki Square 17 106 73 Athens Tel: 210 369 2333 Instituto Cervantes Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens Tel: 210 3634117 Goethe Institut Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens Tel: 210 3661000 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213 017 8000 Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission [28 Oktovriou] 47 Tel: 210 369 2333, 210 524 2646

ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Tel: 210.687.6200 ALGERIA Vas. Constantinou 14 Tel: 210.756.4191-2 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59. Tel: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Tel: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Avenue 4, Tel: 210.725.7270 AZERBAIJAN Skoufa 10.

Tel: 210.363.2721 BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Tel: 210.360.0314

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3. Tel: 210.641.0788 BRAZIL Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14.

Tel: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.8105 CANADA Ioanni Gennadiou 4.

Tel: 210.727.3400 CHILE Kifisias 317A Tel: 210.807.1020 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.677.1212 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei.

Tel: 210.685.5550 CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A. Tel: 210.373.4800 CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.671.9701 DENMARK Mourouzi 10.

Tel: 210.725.6440 EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3. Tel: 210.361.8612 ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4.

Tel: 210.747.5660 FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5.

Tel: 210.725.5860 FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7. Tel: 210.339.1000 FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3.

Tel: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25.

Tel: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3. Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16.

Tel: 210.674.1436 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7.

Tel: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2. Tel: 210.361.7260 JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri.

Tel: 210.670.9900 JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.4161 KAZAKHSTAN Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765 KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens.

Tel: 210.698.4080 KUWAIT Perikleous 2, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.3593 LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49.

Tel: 210.729.4356 LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38.

Tel. 210.729.4483 LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofitou Vamva 2.Tel: 210.725.6400 MALTA V. Sofias 96.Tel: 210.778.5138

useful information

Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016.

They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer.

Duty Pharmacies Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings.

Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434 Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777 Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coastguard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000

ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 168 Tourist Information Tel: 174

PAEDIATRIC HOSPITALS

EUROCLINIC PAEDON Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.746.7000 PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535

PRIVATE HOSPITALS ADVANCED MEDICAL SERVICES, SYMMETRIA BUILDING Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri.

Tel: 210.677.3573 www.symmetria.gr CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31. Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000 www.centralclinic.gr

PUBLIC HOSPITALS ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL specialized trauma unit. Nikis 2, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.628.0000 TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus.

Tel: 210.451.9411-9

PHYSICIANS (ENGLISH SPEAKING) Ioannis Bitzos, MD Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62 Kifissia. Tel: 210.808.0682 A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD Eye Surgeon, Mesogeion 2, Athens Tower B’ Tel: 210.747.2777 Dimitris Linos, MD FACS General Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.612.5001-2 HEART & VASCULAR CENTRE E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC FSCAI Interventional cardiologist. Southern Athens. Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou Tel:210.897.6276. www.heartline.gr

DR. KOVEOS D.M.D. DENTAL OFFICE

Cosmetic, Implant & Reconstructive Dentistry 20-22 Ipsilantou str., Kolonaki 106 76 Athens-Greece Tel: 210 7242211 Fax: 210 7242212 E-mail: info@drkoveos.com Website: www.drkoveos.com

English media

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

EUROCLINIC diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre.

Athanasiadou 9. (near Mavili Sq.).

Tel: 210.641.6600 EURODENTICA Specialized dental care Patision 150, Tel: 210. 866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.5760-1 El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea.

Tel: 210.956.5365 HYGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.7000 www.ygeia.gr IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER) Areos 36, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100 METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 www.metropolitan-hospital.gr IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.686.9000

NEWSPAPERS The International Herald Tribune carries the English version of Kathimerini The local Athens News comes out Fridays.

RADIO Antenna 97.2 FM news at 8.25am.

Flash Radio 96.0 FM 8.55am, 3pm and 8pm daily.

ERA public radio 91.6 FM for bulletins at 5am and 9am, full news coverage at 9.30pm.

Schools

Greek Language

Emergencies

VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.9169

Health

MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14.

Tel: 210.729.4780 MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei.

Tel: 210.699.0660 MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.4210 NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7.

Tel: 210.725.4900 NIGERIA Dolianis 65, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Vas. Sofias 23.

Tel: 210.724.6173 PAKISTAN Loukianou 6.

Tel: 210.729.0122 PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychiko. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3 PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus. Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU Semitelou 2. Tel: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23.

Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 QATAR Rigillis 16A Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.8875 RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.5235 SAUDIA ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias Annis Tel: 210.671.6911 SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Tel: 210.777.4344 SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.1980 SLOVENIA Mavili 10, Tel: 210.672.0090-091 SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.610.6645 SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Tel: 210.921.3123 SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Tel: 210.726.6100 SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Tel: 210.723.0364-6 TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychiko, Tel: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Tel: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel: 210.680.0230 UNITED KINGDOM Ploutarchou 1.

Tel: 210.727.2600 UNITED STATES Vas. Sofias 91.

Tel: 210.721.2951 URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia Tel: 210.361.3549

The Athens Center 48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636, Greece 210 7015-242 CELT Athens 77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210 3301455 Greek House Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210 808 5186 Hellenic American Union 22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210368.0900 Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210 6122706

insider athens | December 2011 83

Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED) www.oaed.gr, Tel: 210 99 89 000 Public Services Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177, ww.kep.gov.gr

Public Power Corporation (DEI) In case of power failure: Tel: 210, 523 9939 www.dei.gr

Weather Attica, Tel: 148, www.hnms.gr

Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP) In case of water cut: Tel: 1202, www.eydap.gr

Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman: 5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel), Tel: 210 72 89 640

UNIVERSITIES University of Indianapolis Ipitou 9, Athens, Tel: 210 323 6647 DEREE Gravias 6, Aghia Paraskevi, Tel: 210 600 9800

84 insider athens | December 2011

ALBA Graduate Business School Athinas Ave. & Areos 2A, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210 896 4531 American University of Athens Kifisias & Sochou 4, Neo Psichiko, Tel: 210 725 9301 Business College of Athens Tatoiou 2 & Othonos 77, Kifissia Tel: 210 808 8008

International Kindergartens

International Schools

St Catherine's British Embassy School Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210 282 9750 St. Lawrence College Anemon St, Koropi Tel: 210 891 7000 American Community Schools of Athens Aghias Paraskevis Ave. 129, Halandri, Tel: 210 639 3200 Campion School Aghias Ioulianis, Pallini Tel: 210 607 1700 Byron College Filolaou 7, Gerakas Tel: 210 604 7722 International School of Athens Xenias and Artemidos, Kifissia, Tel: 210 623 3888 Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix Chlois & Trikalon, Ag. Paraskevi Tel: 211 300 9121 Scuola Statale Italiana Odos Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia Tel: 210 228 2720 German School in Athens Homatianou & Ziridi, Maroussi Tel: 210 619 9261 Greek German School 25 Martiou & Vernardou, Vrylissia Tel: 210 682 0566

ENGLISH KINDERGARTENS The Cottage Kindergarten Psaron 74, Halandri Tel: 210 682 7629 Early Learning Rizountos 53, Elliniko Tel: 210 961 8763 Hopscotch International Kindergarten Ag. Triandos 93, Vari Tel: 210 965 3985 Kifissia Montessori School Ellinikon Stratou 5, Kifissia Tel: 210 620 7481 Melina’s Kindergarten Harilaou Trikoupi 16, Kifissia Tel: 210 801 2719 Peek-a-boo PreSchool Vougliameni Tel: 210 967 1970 Peter Pan Lakonias 4-6, Voula Tel: 210 895 9654 Prince Allen The English Nursery School Lysimahou 8, Vari Tel: 210 965 6800

Au petit bonheur 50 Iraklitou, Glyfada, Tel: 210 9658 207 Les Alouettes Spartis 36 & Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia Tel: 210 80 11 570 L’Air des Contes 11, Cycladon, Glyka Nera, Tel : 210 600 3196 Le Castelet 18 Gortinias, Kifissia, Tel: 210 808 7760 Mary Poppins 4, Kodrou, Filothei, Tel: 210 677 3803 Play and Learn Kassaveti 22, Kifissia, Tel: 210 801 1428

GERMAN KINDERGARTENS O mikros Antonis Barbayiannis, Pallini, Tel: 210 603 2527

ITALIAN KINDERGARTENS Scuola maternal italiana de Atene Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia, Tel: 210 202 0274 Il Mulino magico Troados 23, Ag Paraskevi, Tel: 210 600 3148 British Council Library Kolonaki Sq. 17 Tel: 210 363 3211/5 American Library Masalias 22 (4th floor) Tel: 210 363 8114 American School of Classical Studies Blegen Souedias 54, Tel: 210 723 6313 Athens College Library Stephanou Delta, P. Psychiko Tel: 210 671 4628 Hellenic American Union Greek Library 22 Masalias St (7th floor), Tel: 210 362 9886 French Institute Library 31 Sina St, Tel: 210 362 4301 German Archaeological Institute Library Pheidiou 1, Tel: 210 362 0270 Goethe Institute Library Omirou 14-16, Tel: 210 360 8111 Italian Institut Library Patision 47, Tel: 210 522 9294 EU Library Vas. Sophias 2, Tel: 210 724 3982 National Library Tzavella 25, Tel: 210 382 0657 Benakeios Library Anthimou Gazi 2, Tel: 210 322 71

Libraires

Road Assistance ELPA: 104

Social Security & Health Insurance (IKA) www.ika.gr

Money

FRENCH KINDERGARTENS Telephone & Internet Services (OTE) New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169 www.ote.gr

LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS

Post Phone

useful information

Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am-1:30pm.

AMERICAN EXPRESS Tel: 210.326.2626 DINERS CLUB Tel: 210.929.0200 EUROCARD Tel: 210.950.3673 MASTERCARD Tel: 00800.1188.70303, VISA Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04

Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00, then the country code.

To call from a Public payphone buy a phone card at the kiosks

Incoming

by Travel Plan Quality that meets your expectations!

www.travelplan.gr incoming@travelplan.gr

!

advertise in our listings, and reach thousands of customers

email us at ads@insider-magazine.gr

getting around

24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE

Car rental

WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service.

Tel: 210.353.0100 www.skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section Getting Around Ada Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.322.0087 Arena Tel: 210.894.6883, 210.614.7400 Auto Union Tel: 210.922.1211/1213 Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8 Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury Rentals Tel: 210.922.2442/43 Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171

AAA Royal Prestige Tel: 210.988.3221 Astra Limousine Service Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996 Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services Tel: 210.322.5090 Limousines Kakaya Tel: 210.323.4120 Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (€1) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 6€.

EXPRESS BUS FROM/ TO AIRPORT To and from Syntagma Square (bus X95, 70 min. approx.), Ethniki Amyna metro station (bus X94, 50 min. approx.) and Piraeus (bus X96, 90 min. approx.). Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board. Buses leave every 10-15 minutes. Fare is €3.20 and the ticket is valid for 24 hours on buses, trolleys and metro. For further information dial 185 or visit www.oasa.gr, www. ametro.gr. For info on trains see www.proastiakos.gr

HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANISATION Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002 www.ose.gr

ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Agios Antonios-Agios Dimitrios) 5.30am-midnight, Line 3 (EgaleoDoukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Egaleo-Airport) 5.30am-22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm.

The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. www.ametro.gr

TRAM Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. www.tramsa.gr

TAXIS from the airport cost about €20 to Syntagma Square, €25 to Piraeus, depending on traffic. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies.

Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171

INTERCITY BUSES Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa, Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100Tel: 210.512.4910-1, www.ktel.org Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia, Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260.

RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada Tel: 210.960.5600 There is a booking fee of e1 added to the meter

SEA PORTS Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888

Sea ports & Ferries

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata.

Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. www.aia.gr.

LIMOUSINES

Public transport

Airport

Airlines

Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France Tel: 210.998.0222 Air Malta Tel: 210.965.2300-22 Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American Tel: 210.361.3373 Air Taxis (Helicopter and plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149 Austrian Tel: 210.960.1244 British Airways Tel: 801.11.56000 BMI Tel: 210.960.0942 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Delta Tel: 210.331.1673-6 Easy Jet Tel: 210.353.0300 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.960.56.08 Gulf Air Tel: 210.322.0851 Iberia Tel: 210.353.6004 KLM Tel: 210.998.0333 Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 210.966.6666 SAS Tel: 210.353.0373 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Turkish Tel: 210.353.7280-2

FERRIES Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000 From the Port of Piraeus Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands:

Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000 www.hellenicseaways.gr, Anek Lines www.anek.gr Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines www.minoan.gr Tel:801 11 75 000

YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus. Tel: 210.458.7100 Ghiolman Yachts Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.0330 Nava Yachts Loudovikou Sq. 6, Piraeus.

Tel: 210.417.7728 Northstar Poseidonos 54, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000 PGA Alimou & Poseidonos, Alimos.

Tel: 210.985.9400 Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula.

Tel: 210.895.2212, 210.895.6733 Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29, Alimos.

Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301 Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki.

Tel: 210.985.0122-8

Gates G & E

Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands:

Gates B, G & D

Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate G

SUPERFAST FERRIES Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens.

Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130 Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700 www.superfast.com

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sales points For central Athens points, see i on map EASTERN SUBURBS Gerakas: Mini Market Milionis: 131, Marathonos Avenue Pallini: Bookshop Bouzas: 63, Marathonos Street Peania: Bookshop Tangopoulos: Agias Triados Street

NORTHERN SUBURBS AG.PARASKEVI: Mini Market Avarakis: 3, Themistokleous Street, Kiosk Theodoropoulos: 8, Polytechniou Street DIONYSSOS: Kiosk Michail: 4, Mitropolitou Kydonion Street EKALI: Kiosk Kyrpoglou: Vassileos Pavlou Square FILOTHEI: Kiosk Roupa: Drossopoulou Square, Super Market Kyriakopoulos: 11, M.Renieri Street, Mini Market Plati: 27, V.Georgiou Street HALANDRI: Mini Market Kyriakou: 3, Lykourgou Street, Kiosk Drizos: V. Konstantinou & V.Georgiou Street, Bookshop Evripidis: 11, V.Konstantinou Street, Mini Market Bakatsia: 46, Pendelis Avenue, Bookshop Vivliostyl: 34, Olympou Street, Mini Market Tsakiri: 76, Ag.Antoniou Street HOLARGOS: Kiosk Bekiaris: 212, Messogion Aveue, Kiosk Tambouridis: 256, Messogion Avenue KEFALARI: Kiosk Glentzis: Patr.Maximou & Apergi Square KIFISSIA: Kiosk Karadouman: 36-38, Kyriazi Street, Bookshop Gioggaras: 34, Elaion Street, Kiosk Koutsodimou: 308, Kifissias Avenue MAROUSSI: Tobacco & Gifts Tsitsilonis: 41-43, Kifissias Avenue, Tobacco & Gifts Raptis: 64, Kifissias Street, Kiosk Stefanopoulos: 46, Kifissias Street, Mini Market Kitsios: 43, Grammoou & Dionyssou Street MELISSIA: Kiosk Manikas: 75, Dimokratias Avenue, Mini Market Koufopandelis: 28, Pigis Street NEA ERYTHREA: Kiosk Anastassopoulos: 142, Harilaou Trikoupi Street, Bookshop Giannaki: 169, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street, Newsstand: 20 klm National Road Athens-Lamia, Kiosk Konidakis: Thisseos Avenue & Papadaki, Kiosk Kallergis: 130, Tatoiou Street NEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Katichidis: E.Makariou & Michalakopoulou Street, Kiosk Doukas: 44, Diamantidou Street, Kiosk Gionis: 25, Chr.Smyrnis & Ag.Georgiou Street PAPAGOU: Mini Market Papavassiliou: 16, Ellispontou Street

PALEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Kyriakou: Solomou Square, Kiosk Gialama: Efkalypton Square, Kiosk Polydoros: Kifissias & Ag.Dimitriou Street, Kiosk Kalogeropoulos: V. GeorgiouSquare, Kiosk Kontabasis: 2, Amaryllidos & V. Pavlou Street, Kiosk Kalfagian: V. Georgiou B’ 11 POLITIA: Kiosk Vovlas: Politia Square VRILISSIA: Kiosk Theodoropoulou: 5, Analypsi Square, Kiosk Aggelopoulos: Pendelis Avenue & Omirou, Bookshop Karystinaiou: 69, Alefiou Street

SOUTHERN SUBURBS GLYFADA: Kiosk Tamourantzis: 3, Metaxa & Maragou Street, Kiosk Tsakanikas: 3, Lambraki Street, Kiosk Mavraki: Pandoras & Ioanni Metaxa, Kiosk Adamopoulos: 20, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Papadakou: 7, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Haikal: 1, Ioanni Metaxa & Fivis Street, Kiosk Bolota: Gounari & Iraklitou Street, Kiosk Bellou: 5, Saki Karagiorga Street, Mini Market Agiokatsikos: 24, Ilias Street HELLINIKO: NewsStand: 43-47, Vouliagmenis Avenue ILIOUPOLIS: Super Market Kokossis: 5, Glastonos Street LAGONISI: Kiosk Vassiliadis: 37,5 klm Athinon-Souniou Avenue NEA SMYRNI: Kiosk Manoussos: 28, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street VARKIZA: Kiosk Paraskevopoulou: Varkiza Square VOULA: Kiosk Leontopoulos: 12, Sokratous Street, Mini Market Pournara: 33, Pringipos Petrou Street, Kiosk Christopoulou: V. Pavlou & Ag. Ioanni Street VOULIAGMENI: Kiosk Andrioti: Armonias Square, Kiosk Chryssikos: 1, Ermou Street, Kiosk Kylitis: 14, Thisseos Street PALEO FALIRO: Kiosk Kombogianni: 1, Ag. Alexandrou Street, Kiosk Kapetanou: 24, Achilleos Street, Mini Market Nikouli: 9, Pliadon Street, Tobacco & Gifts Berekos: 1, Possidnos Avenue & Moraitini Street PIRAEUS: Hand Delivery Telstar: 57, Akti Miaouli, Tourist Chop Siatras: 46, Akti Koumoundourou Street, Kiosk Samarogiannis: 7, Merarhias B’Street, Kiosk Siaho: Akti Moutsopoulou (Kanari Square), Kiosk Kentros: 73, Iroon Polytechniou Street, Kiosk Fotis: 1, Loudovikou Street, Kiosk Spalas: 111, Karaiskou Street, Newsstand: Railway Station Loudovikou Square

www.mysephora.gr

For central Athens stores, see on map ASPROPIRGOS Filis 100 & Bouboulinas, Tel: 210.558.0989 ERMOU Ermou 24 Tel: 210. 331.3167 & 325.7744 KALLITHEA Thisseos & Davaki, Tel: 210.956.5959 - 956.5446 KIFISSIA Kassaveti 6, Tel: 210.623.1741 & 623.1742 KORYDALLOS Taxiarhon 110A, Tel: 210.569.5270 569.5998 THE MALL, Notios Paradromos Attikis Odou, Tel: 210.630.0125 & 630.0126 AVENUE Kifissias 41-45, Tel: 210.610.9739 & 610.9740

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GOLDEN HALL Kifissias Av. 37A & Sp. Louis, Tel: 210.683.7343 PANGRATI Ymittou 110 & Hremonidou, Tel: 210.751.8005 GLYFADA A. Metaxa 33-35, Tel: 210. 894.3378 & 894.5884 KOLONAKI Milioni 2, Tel: 210. 361.2666 & 362.9925 NEA MAKRI Marathonos Av. 117, Tel: 229.409.9661 PERISTERI Ethnikis Antistaseos 12, Tel: 210. 571.0755 PETROU RALLI Petrou Ralli 97, Tel: 210. 569.6596 & 569.7316 PIKERMI 21oklm. Marathonos Av., Tel: 210. 603.9987 PSYCHIKO Kifissias 210, Tel: 210. 677.5527 & 674.0178 VRILISSIA Pentelis Av. 72, Tel: 210. 810.1971 & 810.1972

city map

Map courtesy of Emvelia Publications

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Its been good knowing you Insider has had the immense privilege of meeting and interviewing personalities that made a world of difference in their respective fields.

Philhellenes all – from fashion designers Jean-Paul Gaultier, Diane von Furstenberg and Robert Duffy of Marc Jacobs, Hermes’ creative director Pierre-Alexis Dumas, former foreign minister and ex-mayor of Athens, Dora Bakoyanni, model Adriana Sklenarikova, actress and Chanel muse Anna Mouglalis, pop star and Eurovision Contest winner Eliza Paparizou and chef Nobu – Insider had the pleasure of hosting them between its covers.

88 insider athens | December 2011