Flavor
IN KC
In the Kitchen BY
Cody Hogan Aaron Leimkuehler
PHOTOS BY
A
s we quietly slide into autumn, sweet and savory squashes like Delicata, butternut, acorn, and Hubbard find their way to the farmers markets, restaurants, and my home table. This year, in addition to the butternut I always cultivate, I grew Delicata. Its name is literal—it is a more delicate squash in both flavor and storability than most of the longer keeping “winter” squashes—I’ve kept and used butternut squash up to a year after harvesting it. But Delicata’s nature makes it a perfect vehicle for accentuating flavors and textures. If you garden, or over-purchase squashes at the market (because they are all so beautiful and make great seasonal displays), keep in mind that the Delicata is the one you want to use up first. If you can’t find it, acorn squash is a perfect substitute. This is a recipe to make your own by varying ingredients and technique to fit your palate and your lifestyle. For the sweet-sour element of the hon-
ey-lime drizzle, you could substitute balsamic vinegar or a maple syrup and lemon reduction. Different herbs could be used in place of the mint, such as basil, sage or cilantro. Instead of sautéing in a skillet, the squash could be roasted until tender on a parchment-lined sheet pan to achieve similar results. For the cheese, you can approach it from different directions: a tangy fresh sheep or goat’s milk cheese as a counterpoint to the sweetness, or something nutty and mellow like a local cheddar-style cheese that goes with the almonds and provides textural contrast. You be the judge. If you can wait, the dish improves with a few hours (or day or so) of marinating. Just remove the squash from the refrigerator and allow it to return to room temperature before serving, or quickly heat it if you prefer it warm. Just before serving, garnish with the cheese and almonds. I think it is an excellent accompaniment to almost anything, but it is especially lovely with grilled fish or quail.
In Your Pantry
CHEESE, PLEASE Green Dirt Farm “Plain” Fresh Sheep’s Milk Cheese
“Plain” is probably the last word to describe this cheese from Weston, MO. It has a mellow quality that haters of goat’smilk cheese might just love. Served at room temperature or slightly warmed, this is like velvet. Available at better grocery stores everywhere.
Cottonwood River Cheddar
Hailing from the Jason Wiebe Dairy in Durham, KS, this beautifully aged raw-milk cheddar has a nutty complexity and granular texture that keeps you coming back for more. Nibble with nuts and a nice beer. Available at Cosentino’s Markets.
OCTOBER 2018
Baetje Farms “Bloomsdale” One of the most celebrated cheeses of Missouri, this fresh flat-topped pyramid of goat cheese is an earthy delight that, if you allow it to age to the point of an almost runny texture, reveals deep notes of blue cheese. Delicious at any age, always allow it to come to room temperature before serving. Available at Whole Foods.
| 106 | INKANSASCITY.COM
Flory’s Truckle
Another delicious cheese in the cheddar style made by the Flory family in Jamesport, MO. Aged in lard-coated cheesecloth, this 12-month-aged cheese has notes of butter and dark caramel and a lingering finish. Pair with friends and a glass of your favorite wine. Available at The Better Cheddar.