Ourcover wascreated by SALINAS PACKAGING GROUPin line withthe concept ofluxur y inthe circular economy. Salinas adopted a â100%sustainableâ approachthrough design, materials treatment, innovation and end oflife. Collaboration throughoutthe sustainable luxur y packaging supply chain was key for theproject.
When it comes to innovative product sectors, beauty isnât the ïŹrst that springs to mind. Space travelperhaps, automotive, technology, medicine? And yet, as thisissue of Formes de Luxe at tests, recent initiatives show that innovation is alive and well in the beauty space. Ca rtierâs latest fragra nce launch is one illustration The French ma ison is ta king personaliz ation seriously with Les Ba sesĂ Pa rf umer: an oïŹerdesigned to let the consumer modu late how âintenseâ its sent shall be by applying or oil drop by drop into an unscentedcrea m ba se This play fu l, DI Y approach may not be revolutionar y, but it shows that there is room for reinvention.
Another ne wc omer is knoc ki ng on be auty âs do or : or al ca re, and thereâs no shor ta ge of in novation here No, weâre not ta lk in g to ot hpaste and mout hw ash, but anti-a gi ng formul asand en amelseru ms for te et h and gu ms , and formul as conc eive d to ke ep the or al microbiota in pr ime work in g order. Re ad ou r up on wh atâs happ en in g in th is prem iu m spac e, as or al-c are br ands look to be come a st aple in consumer sâ da ily be auty rout ine. Whoe ver sa id th at ne ce ssit y wa s the Mother of Invent ion? n
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Luxury writing instruments brand MO NT BL AN C has launched itsïŹrst fragrance collec tion Dubb ed Montblanc Collec tion, it consists of foureaux de parfum. A glass inkwell inspired the besp okeïŹaconwith ïŹat base and verticalgrooves An engraved metal plate on the facing is intended to evoke the clip on Montblancâs MeisterstĂŒck pen. The bottle of the Black MeisterstĂŒck perfume features aninternal black lacquer. The texture of the boxis designed to evoke SaïŹano leather.
DI OR âs Capture Totale Hyalushot multi-wrinkle corrector comes in Cosmogenâs Needle Tube, made ofABLwithanaluminum ïŹnish. Availableingoldandsilver versions, is decoratedviascreenprinting. TheïŹnealuminiumapplicator canbeunscrewedand reused on a reïŹll AnembossedCD monogram featuresonthecap withaluminum overshell
AVAN T SK IN CA RE SĂRUMMULTITĂCHE RAJEUNISSANT REJUVENATING MULTITASKERSERUM
Formulated withupcycled ingredients, UK-basedcleanbeauty brand AVA NT SK IN CA RE âs Supercharged Cocoa Rejuvenating Multitasker Serum comesin a glass jarwith a cutaway base. It isplaced verticallywhenfull, then at a 45° angleasthe formulagets used; theproduct canbe dispensed almost to thelast dropthanks to a pipette with a slightlycurved tip The unused amount of formulaissaid to be just5%, compared to 8%with a traditional dropper.
OL D PU LT EN EY âs oldest single malt to date, Bow Wave, is housed in a mouth-blown egg-shaped decanter that rests on a chiseled slab of Caithness stone.
The 1.5 liter vessel is hand-etched with complex cuts and transitions from transparent, textured glass at its base to a deep blue hue at the top. A hand-crafted silver adornment encircles the decanter.
SI SL EY âs SupremĂża At Night antiaging skincare uses Lumsonâs Techno Airless Glass (TAG) system, featuring an inner multi-layered PE pouch. The bottle is customized via specially developed inner gold lacquering. Externally, shaded semi-transparent gold and UV screen printing is used. The PP cap is ïŹnished with a brushed gold aluminum overshell showcasing the brandâs debossed logo brushed gold aluminum
Greekbrand HO LI ST ON âs extra virgin olive oilisbottledinEstalâs BobberJRbottlemadeof WildGlass It isdecoratedwith a labelprinted on UPM RaïŹatacâs Ice White RP30stock, and ïŹnishedwithgoldleafprinting andUVspot varnish. The cork closure islaserengraved with thebrand name. Anembossed, double -walled cardboard box constitutesthe secondary packaging.
Designed to be added to a laundr y load in place of fabric softener, French brand MA RI NE CO TO N âs laundr y fragrance perfumes both clothes and the home. It is available in three diïŹerentscents and hasa perfume concentration of 25%. The produc t comes in Estalâs Philos glassïŹacons,ïŹtted with apump dispenser.
AlUla is a new addition to the PE NH ALI GO NâS TradeRoutes fragrancerange. The bespokeïŹacon hasa PP gold label that is laminated andïŹnished with aïŹexo matte varnish and relief varnish.
A transparent Surlyn cap combines with a jacquard ribbon and golden zamak collar The fragrance comes in a recycled grayboard rigid bell box with bio-sourced foaminsert The box is sheathed in brown paper embossed with a natural leather grain
For its 2024 Hors DâĂąge limitededition collec tion, CO UTAN SE AU X AĂ NĂ called on ar tist Tess Dumon. Hand -car ved balsa wood pieces were treated to resemble the aged oak of cognac barrels. They adorn boththe 5- liter La Belle Jeanne cognac decanter and its coïŹret made of 10 0% recycled grayboard wrapped with white FSC- certiïŹed paper. Two golden âhoopsâ on the coïŹret are meant to recall barrel hoops.
Haiti-based RH UM BARBAN CO UR T released a special- edition coïŹret to mark 160 years of business The rhum is housed in a cr ystal decanter that is decorated with etching and handbrushed gold It nestles in a wooden coïŹret with veneered side panels covered in blue imitation leather and sliding cardboard doors. The coïŹret is decorated via embossing and hot foil stamping.
InïŹniment Coty Paris, CO TY chose a bespoke ïŹaconthat isstackable thanks to a recessedslotinitsbase Decorated with a simplewhite label, the ïŹint glass ïŹacon features aïŹat backandmultiplefacetson itsfacing. It iscrownedwithanoïŹwhite sphericalstopperand comes in a plantïŹberwrapdesigned to hug the contoursofthebottle
DI PT YQ UE X CA FĂ VE RL
AM OI FRAGRANCES
Capot/ Cap: MINELLIGROUP
Designducapot / Cap design: JEANLOUISMATHIEZ(CINQPATS)
Parfumeurs / Perfumers: MARIE HUGENTOBLER HĂLĂNEVONESCH (SCENTMATEBYDSMFIRMENICH)
Well-beingfragrancesproven by neuroscience isthepremise behindnew Frenchbrand AMO I Basedontheability of certain biochemicalmolecules to stimulate neurotransmitters, its fourfragrances claim to boosteitherenergy, joy, relaxation,or concentration. Independent veriïŹcationisdone by a neuroscience laboratory. The reïŹllablefrostedïŹaconsare topped withmonomaterialbeechwoodcaps (MinelliGroupâs LegnaPin)engraved withthebrandâs logo
Cartierâs in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent set out to create a new body ritual with Les BasesĂ Parfumer The range consists of unscented bases a body oil anda cream and alcohol-free concentrated perfumes available in four of the Maisonâs iconic scents Consumers eitherapply the cream or oil to the skin and then place perfume drops on pulse points or add the drops directly into the cream jar or the oil according to their desired instensity
This year, Armagnac Darroze is turning 50. On the occasionof its anniversar y, Marc Darroze, CEO and son of the Founder, discusses the companyâs positioning and how it is renewing the category to attract tomorrowâs consumers.
âOur challenge is to maintain our image of quality and authenticity that we hold dearâand that underlies our good resultsâwhile exploring new consumer trendsâ
Wha t do es th is an ni ve rsa ry me an fo r th e company?
Ma rcDa rroz e:
Fi ft y ye ar s is the ag e of matu rity, and today the va lues of our ma ison are we ll es ta bl is he d: authenticity, respect, independence and plea sure reïŹec t ou r ambition to be the qu ality le ad er in the Ar ma gn ac ma rke t. Thes e 50 ye ar s ha ve en able d us to as su me th is le ad er sh ip role
But weâre only a pa rt of Armagnacâs 70 0-ye ar histor y!
Ar ma gn ac Da rr oz e come s fr om a fa mi ly of re st au ra te ur s. Ho w ha s th is in flue nc ed th e br an dâs constr uc tion?
Wh en my fa th er st ar te d ou t 50 ye ar s ag o, he wa s wo rk in g in th e fa mi ly re st au ra nt , wh er e th e se le ct io n of ea ux de vi e fo r th e
Marc Darroze, PDG dâArmagnac Darroze/ Marc Darroze, Armagnac Darroze CEO
of soil and the gr ap e va riet y. The re su lt wa sa un ique co ll ec ti on of some 30 estate s and more than 40 vi nt ages.Th an ks to th is,our product s qu ic kly found thei r plac e in the world of Arma gnac at theïŹnest tables in France andat export. My fa th er wa sa vi si on ar y: wi th hi s common sens e and hi s love of Ar ma gn ac an d Ga sc on y, he wa s theïŹ rs t to re al iz e th at Ar ma gn ac co ul d be ma rk eted li ke wi ne or ch ampa gne. Tr ac ea bi lity wa s al so a priority for hi m.
Ho w is yo ur pr od uc t of fe r st ruct ured ?
The Collec tion Un ique embo dies th e DN A of th e br an d: on ea ch bott le youâ ll ïŹ nd the na me of the estate and the di st il lation vi nt age. For th is ra nge, we work with some 30 winegrowers on nu merous vinta ge s, re su lt in g in a collec tion of ov er 30 0 di ff er en t Ar ma gn ac s.
La gamme des Grands Assemblages. The Grands Assemblages range
Ar ma gn ac me nu wa s ba se d on a de ep re sp ec t for thei r or ig in s. He ca meup withthe id ea of nolonge r bu yi ng bo tt le s fr ompr od uce rs to se ll the spir it by the gl as s in th e re st au ra nt , bu t to ac qu ir e 40 0-litre un it s and bott le it hi mself.The label on each bott lenoted th e or ig in of th e Ar ma gn ac , th e na me of th e pr od uc er, th e ty pe
M ai so n Da rr oz e
To day, they are either be in g ag ed or are alre ady for sa le
Thes e two ra ng es cu rrently represent arou nd 90% of ou r sa le s. Then we have the Bl anche Ar magnac ra nge,which is quite diïŹerent fr om th e re st ofou r of fe r, as th e eaux de vie are not ag ed ; they are essent ia lly used as cock ta il ba se s.
Wh at ab ou t yo ur âu lt raprem iu mâ oïŹ er ?
Th roug h ou r Lu xe Ga sc on ra ng e, we of fe r ve ry ra re an d ve ry ol d ea ux de vi eâ fr om ar ou nd 1930 to 19 50 âi n sm a l l ba tc he s of 80 to 15 0 de ca nt er s. Th es e ar e pr odu ce d by gl as sm ak er Wa lt ersperge r in Fr an ce
Is th e lu xu ry se gm en t sh ow in g st rong grow th?
Ou r sa le s ha ve ri se n sh ar pl y in re ce nt ye ar s, dr iven by th e pr emi um an d ul tr a- pr em iu m
La gamme bio de la maison Darroze. Darrozeâs organic range.
s e gm en ts Pa ra do xi ca ll y, th e pa nd em ic wa s an ac ce le ra to r as du ri ng th at pe ri od co ns um er s spent le ss on travel and re st au ra nt s and more on plea su re . La st su mme r, th e bu si ne ss ca lm ed do wn somewhat and weâre back to ïŹg ures that look more li ke 2021-2022.
Is or ga ni ca bu oy an t ma rk et for Ar ma gnac ?
We work withth re e or ga nic pr odu ce rs fo ra ve ry sm al l ra ng e, Da rr oz e Biolo gi c. Ob vi ou sl y cl imate change is a seriou s chal lenge fo r wi ne gr ow er s, an d ma na gi ng or ga nic vi ne s is much more compl ex be ca us e th ei r pr ot ec ti on is mo re su bt le In 20 23 , we ha d to sp end tw ic e as mu ch ti me in the vi ne ya rd s,wh ic h me an s hi gh er diesel consumpt ion, more work ing hours (a nd thereforea much higher cost pric e) and lower produc tion
ProïŹta bi lity in the or ga nic se ctor is cu rr en tl y un de r pr es su re . We
ta ke th is into ac co unt, with di fferent cont ract s from what wesign with ou r convention al produc er s, but or ga nic fa rm in g is a very fr agi le econom ic model, and one that ra ises question s. And al l the more so in Arma gnac: when we produc e wi ne for di st il lation, thequ antity of wi ne we ne ed to ma ke one liter of Ar ma gn ac is mult iplied by si x. So, itâs no me an fe at to go orga nic for eaux de vie.
Do you see consumer dema nd for or ga nic spir it s?
The or ga nic oïŹer in spir it s is fairly li mite d; it âs evol vi ng a litt le in French wh isky, but un fort un ately th er e is nât su ff ic ie nt de ma nd to enable us to add more va lue to eaux de vie, so as to be tt er re mu ne rate the work of the produc er
Fr an ce re ma in s yo ur le ad in g ma rk et , ac counti ng for ar ou nd 40 % of yo ur bu si ne ss . Wh at about ex port s?
We are fortunate to have âbalancedâ ma rket s; no export countr y represe nt s mo re th an 12 -14% of th e companyâs s a le s,wh ic h is a rather co mf or ta bl e po si ti on gi ve n th e cu rr ent fr ag ile ge op ol it ic al situ ation France rema in s nu mber one, where we pr ioriti ze the re st au ra nt tr ad eâ an exce llent showca se for our products âand, of course, wine me rc ha nt s. Ne xt co me s Eu ro pe (i nc lu di ng Ru ss ia ), As ia (C hi na , So ut h- Ea st As ia an d Ja pa n) an d Nort h Americ a, with 80% of sa le s in th e US an d th e re ma in de r in Ca nada .
Te llus ab ou t th e Ar magn ac la un ch ed fo r yo ur 50 th an niversa ry.
Tout en resp ec tant la tradition, la maison Darroze explore denouveaux territoires de consommation While staying true to it s heritage Maison Darroze is investigating new mo des of consumption.
mu lt iply in g the comp anyâs stoc k at th e ti me by fi ve ; 20 05 , th e cons tr uc ti on of pa rt of ou r bu ildi ng s an d ce ll ar s; 19 94 , th e ye ar I join ed the comp any; 20 02 , the la unch ofou r wi ne tour is m bu sine ss ; an d 2011, th e co mp an yâs move to a ne w site
As you ca n im ag ine, these arom atic prof iles ar e hi gh ly va ried : the 2011 eau de vie is fruity and ed gy, wh il e 19 74 wi ll be ro un de r an d more comple x.
Ho w do es th e pa ck ag in g fo r
Un ique As sembla ge st and out?
It come s in a Sa ve rg la ss de ca nt er sl ippe d into an em br oi de re d cotton pouch produc ed in Cata lonia. The wo oden he ad cap is the work of Py rene an cr af tsma n Cy ri l La rrouy, who also produc es the he ad s for our Lu xe Ga scon ra nge. A small co rd wo un d ar ou nd th e ne ck is glue d to the cork with a wa x se al; th is ensu re s that the bott le ha s not been opened, forgoing the need for a capsule. The de sign of thedeca nter, the fruit of an in-hou se brainstorm ing se ssion, wa s conc eived by Anaëlle Ba rome s.
Wh at pr od uc ts ar e in th e pipeline?
In Ap ri l, we la un ch ed a pr od uc t th at do es nât ha ve th e Ar ma gn ac ap pe ll at io n, as th e fi ni sh es ar e made in ba rrels of sauterne s, chardonnay, pi not noir and port wi ne The controlled appellation does not al low the use of ba rrels other than those used for Arma gnac
Are you look in g toat tr ac t younge r co ns um er s to th e ca te go ry withth is ra ng e?
Da rr oz e ha sa ve ry tr ad it io na l im ag e. Ou r ch al leng e is to ma inta in ou r im ag e of qu al it y an d authenticity th at we hold de ar an d th at un de rl ie s ou r good re su lt sâ wh il e ex pl or in g ne w consumpt ion trends
More and more ba rtenders are looki ng for niche ar ti sana l pr oduc ts for thei r cock ta il s, and ou r Mi xologie ra nge is pa rt of this trend. We are de veloping two Arma gnac s for co ck ta il s: an un ag ed wh it e an d
a yo un g th re e-ye ar-o ld Fo r th is ra ng e,wh ic h la un ch es in Ma y 2024, we chosea ca rdboard bott le with a plastic pouch, sourced from Fr ug alpac. Fe w spirit s houses have da red to adopt th is format, and we decided to da re!
How are you reducing the impact of your pa ck ag in g?
For the pa st two ye ars, weâve been oïŹ er in g ou r cu stomer s the option of a bo tt le with ou ta bo x, pa rt icu la rly for re st au ra nt s. Ou r ca se s have also been re worked to use le ss in k and paper; wework direct ly on the ca rd bo ard ra ther th an glui ng printed paper onto it
So me ma rk et s, su ch as Ca na da and Nort he rn Eu rope , nolong er wa nt se co nd ar y pa ck s. On th e othe r ha nd , el im in at in g or ev en si mpli fy in g the box is impo ss ible in Asia and pa rt ic ularly in Ch ina. Rather th an produc in g in Fr ance or Sp ai n for thes e ma rk et s (9 0% ofou r ca se s come fr om ou r lo ca l pr od uc er Ca rt on na ge s du Ga scogne) for ultra-lu xu ry coïŹret s, we ca n have them produced in China, wh ich avoids transpor t.
Co gn acis cu rr en tl y fa ci ng a ch al le ng in g ma rk et ; is th is al so the ca se for Ar ma gnac ?
Su mm er 20 23 sa wa sl ow do wn in cons umpt ion. The US ma rk et is ve ry pr ob le ma ti c fo r cogn ac today as consumers are tu rn ingto tequ ila to thedetriment of cognac. Al th ou gh we ar e le ss af fe ct ed , Ar ma gn ac of te n fo ll ow s wh at âs happening in cognac . Having sa id that, the ma rket for artisanal spirits ha sde veloped well in recent time s, and Ar ma gn ac is pa rt of it a nd thatâs a good th ing! n
Despitea favorable reputationwhen it comes to the environment, solid cosmetics lack recognition, especially in the luxury sector. The avenues to explore include making formulas more eïŹective, creating diïŹerent gestures, working onproduct and packaging designand innovating the in-store customer experience. The brands that believe in this sectorâs potential are doing just that
In re ce nt ye ar s, a wi de va ri et y of sh am poo s an d ot he r hy gi ene pr oduc ts ha ve be en ap pe ar in g in th e fo rm of ba rs modeled af ter soap. Powder s, ta blet s, and wa xe s ar e al so be in g us ed to re pl ac e ty pica l ïŹu id solution s such as ge ls , mi lk s, creams , an d se ru ms Wh il e th e ma rk et
ha s la rgel y re ma ined the doma in of st ar t-up s, le ad in g ma ss br ands su ch as Ga rn ie r, Do p, an d Yv es Rocher are ma ki ng in road s. Af ter a slowdown in 2023, perh ap s due to ex ac er ba te d co mp et it io n, th e ma rket now pa ints a mi xed picture.
The br and 90 0.ca re , wh ic h de velo pe da conc ep t ba se d on ta bl et s th at ca n be di lu te d in re fi ll ab le pack aging, ha s ju st ra ised a furt her âŹ21m in capita l and is counting on sa les of âŹ100m in three yearsâ time, co mp ar ed wi th âŹ10m in 20 23 Preferring to rely solely on it s ow n fu nd s and ba nk loan s, the fa mi lyow ned company Comme Avant is st ep pi ng up th e nu mb er of bo utiques it plans to open in France (it wi ll have a dozen by the end of the ye ar); it s sa le s in cr ea se d fr om
The adva nt ag es of solid co smet ic s are well known:formulas that prioritize natura l ingredients; compact, li gh tw ei gh t pr od uc ts th at of fe r ad va nt ag es in te rm s of lo gi st ic s and stor ag e by avoidi ng the ne ed to tr an sp or t wa te r (w hi ch ca n ac count for up to 80%ofa liqu id sh ampoo); and si mpler pack ag in g that consists of recycled ca rdboard boxe s. In any ca se , solid co smet ic pa ck ag in g do es aw ay with di sp osable plastic bott les and the cosmetics them se lves are su ited to re ïŹl l sy stem s and bu lk sa le s.
Al th ou gh fe w re li ab le li fe -c yc le analyses ex ist that cover the entire produc tion ch ai n, ma ny fe el th at this ty pe of cosmetic s generates less wa st e an d fe we r CO 2 em is si on s. This, howe ver, may not be enou gh to support widespread development of solid solutions.
Pu sh ing formula in novation
âWe no w ne ed to move clos er to ârea lâ co smet ic s. In the ea rly days of solid co smet ic s, wewere of te n cr it ic iz ed fo ra la ck of se ns or y ex pe ri en ce , wi th fr ag ra nc e- fr ee
Ot he r comp an ie s ha ve emba rk ed on a proc ess of cont inuous improveme nt âWe us e cu st om er fe edba ck to adju st ou r produc ts to be more plea sa nt an d conv en ie nt to us e. Ou r ne w formul as ar e re gula rl y se nt fr ee of ch ar ge to hu ndred s of beta-testers,â says Thoma s Arnaudo, Co -fou nder of 90 0.ca re. Th is co ll ab or at iv e as pe ct is cu stoma ry for st ar tups , and Comme Av ant al so mo di fi es it s formul as ac cord in g to cons umer fe ed ba ck
âS om e pr od uc ts ar e st il l in ve rsionone,wh ile ot hers are in thei r four th version,â explains Co -fou nde r Soph ie La ur et . âC ha ng es ar e indicated transparently on the packa ging, and we post this histor y on our website.â
Thes e formul a mo di fica tion s ar e so me ti me s de si gn ed to fa ci -
Axilone has capitalized on its technical expertise and creativity to delivera new full-aluminum oïŹering, Pure MetalÂź, which reconciles premium luxury with sustainability, according to Lucie Ray-Lalanne, Marketing and Communication Manager, and Reynald Trochel, Innovation Director.
How does Pure MetalÂź combi ne lu xu ry with su st ainability?
Lu ci e Ra y- La la nn e: Ou r fu ll-a lu mi nu m of fer reconciles premiu m lu xu ry with su stainabi lity. We of fer an integrated serv ic e span ni ng the tran sformation of alum inu m, the cu stom iz at ion of de cors and ïŹnishing to propose unique and durable solutions, right through to the assembly of complex parts.
Reynald Trochel: Luxuryâs sensory codes are inherent to aluminum The material is cool to the touch, dense, ha s su it able sound ch ar ac teri st ic s, is sh iny, ca n be formed in comple x shapes, and ac cept s a wide ra nge of decors, includ ing anodizing, double anodizing, laser, matte or gloss ef fect s, or a combinat ion of both, chiseled eïŹects, and color gradients. This material is also su st ainable because it is circular: 75% of the aluminum produced since 1880 is still in circulation. Full-aluminum packaging can be integrated into existing domestic recycling ïŹows, already well established in the US andEu rope And in the solid lu xu ry pa rt s segment, aluminum scores better in life-cycle analysis than other traditional dense materials.
How is it used?
Re yn ald Troc he l: Ou r complete of fer ex tend s from perf ume and sk inca re to make-up. This includes lipsticks for which we have developed full-aluminum standard
mechanisms and casing, and the possibility to develop customized products with our customers. We also have full-a luminum compacts, made with 98% aluminum including the mirrorâand a mascara range with various formats and standard sizes. Lucie Ray-Lalanne: As the market leader in premium lipsticks, Axilone has complete in-house expertise in full-aluminum packaging and mechanisms. Several industrial successes testif y to this expertise and the recogn it ion ofou r cu stomers: the Hersee Beauty fu ll-a luminum compact and LipL ab âs LipBalm, presented in a 10 0% aluminumdispenser, including the mechanism We are delighted to announce that other applications will be launching in the near future.
What are your current areas of focus?
Reynald Trochel: We are developing new ways of transforming aluminum to extend our range and oïŹer products for perfumes, sk incare, and ma ke-up that have thicker wa lls than trad itiona l pack aging, while minimizing parts and assembly. Another option is to use low-carbon aluminum and characterize existing sources with our products. One of our objectives is to optimize every stage of the product life cycle
Lucie Ray-La la nne: We will continue to expand our product oïŹering and broaden fu nc tional it ie s for al l be auty segments, ma king them available to lu xury brands thanks to our sa les oïŹces in Europe, the USA and Asia.
li ta te wh at is kn ow n as th e cuta ne ou s or capi ll ar y tr an sition. For ex ample, a sc alp ac cu stomed to si licone and su lf at es wi ll ne ed na tu ra l in gr eers are still in the thei r ac cept ance ic s wi ll de pe nd y. l and tech nica lin sa ch al le ng e, ar e ma k i ng the expa nd ing from ude more cuttinges. La Ma ison du er s color- en ha nsh am po os fo r treate d ha ir and ir ma sk ma de th natu ra l keratin. 90 0.ca re ha s applied its diluta bl e ta bl et co nc ep t to a mi ce ll ar wa te r an d a ne w re fi lla bl e ro ll -o n
to s il ic one and at w il l ti me t o ad ap t to n at ur al i ng redients As consumers a re di sc overy ph as e, t heir a cc epta nc e of s ol id c os me ti cs w il l on produc t qua lity Being both nat ural a nd technic ally a dv ance d re ma in s a ch but some bra nd s ki t he eïŹort Ra nges a re e xpanding f rom the ba sics to include cuttingedge references. L a Solide oïŹ ci ng s ha mp oo s color-treate a nd a ha m as k with n at ur al ker an. 900.c are
de odor ant. Comme Avantâs ra ng e of su n pr ot ec ti on st ic ks in clud es a so ot hi ng af te r- su n produc t; the co sm et ic âs ti ck â lend s it sel f we ll to on-t he-go use and by ex tension, su mmer use.
Th e En gl is h br an d SB TRCT is unique in that it chose to focu s on facial products ahead of body ca re, giving it ma ster y over certain active ingred ient s speciïŹc to sk inca re It s Vita mi nC Bo os te r se ru m is on e example. âVitamin C is notoriously unst able, ma king it a tricky ingredient to formulate, even in the ca se of tr ad it iona l liqu id produc ts So, for us to have incorporated it into a solid serum is a great achievement,â explains founder Ben Grac e. The br and ha s other ch al lenges to overcome, such as creati ng a solid mo is tu ri ze r with su n pr ot ec ti on that is both high-per forma nc e and ec o- re sp on si bl e. âC he mi ca l SPF fo rm ul as ar e ef fe ct iv e, bu t th ey are know nto da ma ge aquatic li fe Zi nc ox id e- ba se d mi ne ra l fi lt er s, considered the mo st envi ronmen-
ta ll y fr ie nd ly al te rn at iv e, do nât oïŹ er the us er ex perience and performance that we are committed to delivering,â he explains âThat sa id, in novation in th is ïŹeld is evolvi ng rapidly, and Iâm su reweâl l ïŹnd an answer soon.â
Ge st ure, design, and ot her mode s of di ïŹerent iation
Th e ot he r an gl e th e ma rk et is de ve lopi ng is th at ofplea su re In be au ty, th is of te n in vo lv es ge stu re s. Th e ta ct il e as pe ct of so li d so lu ti on s en co ur ag es a di ff er en t re la ti on sh ip wi thth e bo dy, as se en in re ce nt la un ch es of na tura l de odor ants Ex amples include th e Ca ri ng Mi cr ob io me Sm ar t
De od or an t fr om Sp an is h br an d Fr es hl y Co sm et ic s, a ki nd of le mo n- sc en te d co mp ac t cr ea m th at co me s in a gl as s j a r an d is in te nd ed to be ap pl ie d to th e ar mp it wi thth e fi ng er ti ps : Dr y Po wd er fr om Fr en ch br an d Yo di Be auty,a de odor ant powd er pa c-
Le masque ex foliant de Sisley mousse au contac t de lâeau. Sisley âs ex foliating mask turns into a mousse in contac t with water.
Does this mean that the formulation profession is changing?
SR: It forces us to look for ingredients in solid form that we didnât have before But the key point is that there are more interactions between formulation and the manufacturing process. For example,to pass through an extruder the paste must be malleable. Industrial constraints have to be integrated from the product design stage, which leaves less freedom during formulation. This requires a diïŹerent mindset.
In your opinion, why havenât the big luxury brands goton board yet?
So me br an ds ma ke th e mo st of te xt ur es wi th a tr an sf or ma ti ve aspect, such as powders that metamo rp ho se in to fo am on co nt ac t with wa te r; ex amples includ e the Poud re de Mous se clea ns er adde d to Chanel âs N° 1 ra nge and Sisleyâs Ma sque Ex fo li ant En zy ma ti qu e. Si sl ey al so of fe rs a so ap -f re e
SR: Solid products are mainlydeployed in the hygiene segment, which is not luxuryâs preferred area They are looking for high-per formance skincare which solids donât oïŹer today. The challenge is to ïŹnd other processes in other industries Itâs not easy, given how small the market is Nevertheless, itâs something weâre looking into Squarexper t has teamed up with Tectic and Rheonis to patent a process anda device for obtaining textured, homogeneous products from solid precursors in less than two minutes. In the case of tablet-t ype products, rehydration takes several hours and the resulting product is inconsistent Therefore, we are focused on improving these two points: time and qualit y. This will be achieved usinga machine, currently under development, which can be installed in stores for bulk sales or in consumersâ homes. For greater environmental impact, weâd like to star t at the point of sale n
Phyt o-PĂą te Mous sa nt e,wh ic h ca n be lathered onto a da mp fa ce withthe ïŹn ge rs or a br us h. Pr acti ca li ty fo r on-t he -g o us e ca n al so be an in ce nt iv e. Give nc hy âs Sk in Perfec to ra ng e, for ex ample, includes an SPF 50 day-st ick anda compac t moistu ri zing crea m presente d in a ïŹ at ca se: the twopi nkand-wh ite ma rbled formulas plac e le ss emph asis on natu ra lnes s th an on eïŹcacy and sensor y experience In th is se gm en t, de si gn is an es se nt ia l el em en t of di ff er en ti ati on Without pa ck ag in g, a soli d sh ampo o look s li ke anot he r solid sh ampo o, or even a soap For th is re as on, sy nd et s come in a va riet y of shapes and colors And to ma ke them ea sier to us e in the show er, th ey ca n be wa ll -m ou nt ed us in g ma gnet s and suct ion pads For it s shower gels and shampoos, Freshly Cosmetics oïŹers an original ca se that ma ke s the product ea sier to hold wh il e in us e,wh il e al so extending its shelf life and providing a me an s of tr an sp or t. The br and 900.care ca lled on designer Romain
Le ma hi eu to de si gn so me of it s tablet bott les and dispensers; these plastic packages, which can be reïŹlled at home, need to beboth practica l and resistant. SBTRCT opted for mi ner a l suppor ts and ba mboo boxe s th at en able a sp a-li ke environment at home,â says Ben Grace. Clearly, packaging continues to play a role in this minima list ïŹeld.
As the na me it se lf su gg es ts , solid cosmetics are all about the tangible
Ne w br ands are not content with digital sites to sell and promote themselves. They are also turning to the physic al networks oforga nicstores and pharmacies, and even perf ume chains, as in the ca se of Unbottled, which launched at Sephora in 2022 The most daring brands are investing in their own stores.
Af ter ju st two ye ar s, HomnĂšs wi ll open its ïŹrstboutique in June 2024 in Pa ri s. It wi ll hous e the br andâs ar ti sa na l sh ampo o and so ap pr oduct ion work shop, in fu ll view of the publ ic So ap s re qu ir in ga si xweek dr ying phase will be matured on a wa ll in the st or e, mu ch li ke wine s in a cellar Kety Pe za ku, the companyâs Founder, hope s to open si mi la r lo ca ti on s. âT he ai m is to ex tend th is mo de l of lo ca l, tr an spa re nt pr od uc ti on so th at ea ch bout ique-atelier ca n serve reta ilers in it s loca l ma rket,â she says. By combining ecologic al and ma rketing considerations, Peza ku aims to br oa de n the tr ad it iona l ta rg et audience for solid co smet ic s, and notju st prea ch to the choi r. âI âm inte re st ed , for ex ample, in se nior exec ut ives, those who arenât re ady to gi ve up flyi ng , but wa nt todo something for the planet,â shesays When thou ght of in th is way, the pu rc ha se of a ha nd made soap ca n become a quiet lu xury experience n Pa sc ale Ruchon
âą SaponiïŹcation: a soap -mak ing process involvinga chemical reac tion betweena soda base and a fatt y subs tance. Carried out at high temp eratures, it can be industrialized and makes produc ts of consistent quality Cold saponiïŹcation, however, remains
an ar tisanal process and requires a long dr ying time but preser ves sensitive ac tive ingredient s and fragrances better..
âą Syndetor âsynthetic detergentâ by ex trusion: This âsoap without soapâ is made by combining surfac tants and fats The paste is ex truded througha die, then cut or molded Less aggressive than soap these formulas are used for solid shampoos
âą Hot casting: A process that involves heating the ingredient mixture, then shaping it into jars pans, or sticks It is used for lipstick s, deodorants, balms, perfume concretes, cosmetic waxes, and more
âą Compacting powders: A loose powder is compac ted either in pans common in make -up, or in the form of dissolving tablets or bath balls.
18 & 19 [09] 2024 - Javit sC enter
Jointhecommunity!
Al
lema gne/ Germany
INNOVER SUR UN MARCHĂ EN TENSION INNOVATING IN A CHALLENGING MARKET
Luxury packaging suppliers in Germany continue to invest in innovationwhile contending with increased costs and stiïŹ competition from other manufacturing markets
Coupled with high in ïŹati on an da sl owd ow n in grow th, Germa ny âs ec onomy is conf ronted wi thth e ri si ng co st of ca pi ta l, en er gy pr es su re s, an da ti ght la bo r ma rk et Wh il e th e lu xu ry good s ma rk et it sel f is sh ow in g resi li en ce gr ow in g 1.9% in 2023 ac cord in g to Eu romonitor lu xu ry pa ck ag in g su ppl ie rs in th e co un tr y ar e fa ci ng mult ip le ch al le ng es . In a bi d to re ac h dema nd in g cl im ate ta rg et s, ât he go ve rn me nt ha s se t hi gh er en vi ro nm en ta l st an da rd s to th e in du st ry, wh ic h me an sa co st in cr ea se fo r th e Ge rma n lu xu ry
pa ck ag in g m a rk et ,â co nf ir ms
Leander Kr it ikos , CE O of se conda ry pa ck ag in g ma nu fa ct ur er
Procos, wh ic h produc es in Eu rope but not in Germ any, as we ll as in Ch ina, India and Me xico. Combine d withthe fa ct th at the countr y is se ei ng oneof the highest energy pr ic es in th e co nt in ent, Ge rm an pr oduc tion isha vi ng a ha rd ti me co mp et in g in Eu ro pe , Kr it ik os ad ds Hi gh en er gy co st s ca n be pa rt ia ll y of fs et ; Ri ss ma nn sa ys it co ve rs 65 % of it s el ec tr ic it y consumpt ion with it s sola r pa nels
âThe rema inin g 35% come s from âg re en â en er gy su pp li er s, â st at es Ri ssma nn CEO Soph ie Iven s.
Ge ka He ad of Gl ob al Ma rke ti ng St ef an ie Gu nz sa ys th at br an d de ma nd fo r qu al it y, cu stom pa ck ag in g sh ap es and vi su al eïŹ ec ts co mb in ed wi th re la ti ve ly sm al l vo lu me s ma ke s it di ïŹ cu lt to ru n hi gh ly au to ma te d pr oce ss es or stoc k it em s, with la borin ten si ve pr od uc ti on of ten th e on ly wa y to me et su ch re qu es ts âA lt houg h there is a bigger budget al locate d to lu xu ry pa ck ag in g, itÂŽs st il l ch al le ng in g for Ge rm anand Eu rope an comp an ie s to comp et e wi th As ia .â âI nt er na ti on al co mpe tition is ïŹ erce ,â conïŹ rm s Da hli ng er Ma na gi ng Di re ctor Va lerio dâAd amo. âTh is re qu ires cons ta nt at te nt io n to in du st ry tr en ds an d a co mm it me nt to bo th qu al it y an d di ïŹ er enti at ion to st ay ah ea d in the ma rk et .â Ri ss ma nnâs Iven s ag re es : âTh er e ar e se ve ra l [oth er] ri gi d bo x ma nu fa ct ur er s in Ge rma ny, wh o ar e al so in co mp et iti on wi th As ia n pr od uc ti on To se t ou rs el ve s ap ar t, we st ri ve to br in g th e hi gh es t va lu e to th e pa ck ag in g we pr od uc e, an d al so ta ke ec ol og ic al co ns tr ai nt s in to
ac co un t. We ca n pr od uc e bo xe s wi th or ig in al cl os ures an d pa ddi ng in FSC paper and ca rdboard, as we ll as ba gs with paper ha ndle s and ribb on s, even without glue .â
Su st ai nabi lity st ands out
Su st ai na bi li ty co nt in ue s to be a ke y ma rk et dr iv er, wi th st ro ng de ma nd fo r mo no -m at er ia l an d pa rt ic ul arly pa pe r and ca rd bo ard pr od uc ts âG er ma ny is al l ab ou t su st ai na bi li ty : th e co ns um er is so ph is ti ca te d an d ha s an ec oco ns ci ou s mi nd se t. Th is al so appl ie s to the lu xu ry se gment; the ch al le ng e he re is how to combine lu xu ry wi th su st ai na bi lity,â sa ys Qu ad pa ck Ch ie f of St aïŹ Ca rl os Pa ge s. âWe ac hieve th is th an ks to ou r ex pert i s e in PE T inje ct ion for th ic k-wa lled ai rles s and other packa gi ng fo rm at s, as we ll as hi ghen d de co ra ti on te ch ni qu es li ke fu ll-c over hotfoi l st ampi ng , wh ic h oïŹer sa low- em is sion, solvent-free alte rn at ive to me ta ll iz at ionâ.The be au ty pa ck ag in g su pp li er ha s do ub le d pr od uc ti on ca pa ci ty at
Emballage Re gula Airless de Quadpack Quadpack âs Re gular Airless pack s
it s ma in ma nu fa ct ur in g fa ci lities in Ki ersp e, Ge rma ny, si nc e it ac qu ir ed Lo uv re tt e in 2019 (it al so pu rc ha se d fu ll -c ov er ho tf oi l st am pi ng sp ec ia li st Wi ck le inin 20 21), wi thth e co un tr y no w it s bi gg es t ma rk et in te rm s of sa le s. Wh ile su st ai nabi lity ca n represent a gr ow th op po rt un it y, it is no t with ou t it s ob st ac le s. âS us ta in abi lity re gu la tion s ar e goin g to be th e ma in ch al le ng e aïŹ ec ti ng th e in du st ry in th e co mi ng ye ar s, â Pa ge s comments
Inve st ing inin novation
is ap pr oa ch in g su st ai na bi li ty in pa rt by ex plor in g wa st e mate ri al s th at ca n re pl ac e wo od ce llul os e: hemp, cocoa hu sk s,st raw, gr as s.
Ge rm an pa ck ag in g su pp li er s aïŹ rm th ey ar e ri si ng to th e susta in ab le in no va ti on ch al le ng e. In 20 23 , Ge ka un ve il ed it s sh ado w pr inti ng de co ra ti on pr oc es s de ve lope d in re sp on se to dema nd for lower-impa ct de coration te chni qu es . Su it ed to al l th er mo se t and recycled plastics, the patented proc es s us es he at to create su rf ac e eïŹ ec ts an d en ab le s 36 0° de co ration without the addition ofpr inti ng in k or fo il . âTh is te ch ni qu e is incred iblyïŹe xible and al lows us to oïŹ er comp le x cu st om iz ed element s and patterns onto bott le s or caps ,â says Gu nz Th roug h it s Gr ee nf ibra La bs , an in-hou se entity se t up to de ve lop ne w material s using natu ra l ïŹbers, Germa n pa pe rma ke r Gm un d
Dahlinger craf te d the coïŹret for the 160 th annivers ar y of Rhum
Barbancour t. It combines a wo oden bo dy with vene ered side panels, blue imitation leather, sliding cardboard doors and hot foil stamping
âAt the moment, weâre te st ing jute ca rr ie r ba gs fo r co ïŹe e, as we ll as lave nder, ch amom ile, corn ïŹower, ro se an d ev en pe nc il sh av in gs ! Th e ec ol og ic al ad va nt ag e he re is to source as clos el y as po ss ible to the ma nu facturing site, and to ïŹnd fa st-g ro wi ng pl an ts th atre qu ir e le ss ener gy to pr oc es s th an wo od ce llul os e, â Gmun d CE O Fl or ia n Ko hl er to ld For me s de Lu xe in De ce mb er 20 23 Th e su ppl ie râs Gmund Ha nf, for ex ample, is sa id to be the on ly 10 0% he mp pa pe r in the world th at ca n be produc ed on an industrial sc ale. The line also includes va ri ants cont ai ni ng 50% and 10% hemp
Germ an label pr i nter Voll herbst is work in g with pa rt ners ona paper capsule for sparkl in g wi ne s. Af ter a pr otot yp e pr es ente d in 20 23 , the ïŹne-tu ni ng for ma ss pr oduction is st il l on goin g. The supplier is ai mi ng for fu ll-sca le produc tion with it s ïŹr st cu stomer s by the end of 2024.
In du st ri al pr oc es se s ar e an othe r on goin g ar ea of inve st me nt . Pr oco sâ Kr it ik os ar gu es th at to pu ll ah ea d of th e co mp et it io n, su ppl ie rs wi ll ne ed to re in ve nt so me pr oc es se s an d th ei r pr od uc ti on me th od s, su ch as th e au to ma -
Rissmannâs laser cutting and engraving processes can be combined to deliver unique color result s and customiz able 3D eïŹec ts thanks to the superp osition of layers of paper.
ti on of ce rt ai n ma nu al op er ation s. Da hl in ge r sa ys it is pl ac in g âs ig ni fi ca nt em ph as is â on di gita li za ti on in it ia ti ve s ai me d at op ti mi zi ng an d mo de rn iz in g co mp an y- wi de pr oc es se s. Th e su pp li er no te s th at AI re pr es ents bo th a ch al le ng e an d an av en ue fo r in no va ti on : âE ff ic ie nt in tegr at io n of AI te ch nolo gi es in to o p er at io ns ho ld s th e po te nt ia l to bo os t co mp et it iven es s an d sp ur
cr ea ti ve ad va nc em en ts ,â no te s dâAd am o.
Qu adpa ck for it s pa rt ch an ne lled fu nd s of more th an âŹ2m in 2023 int di gita li za ti on . Th e fu nd s ar e ea rmarked fora ne w ME S (m anufa ct ur in g ex ec ut ion sy st em) oïŹ eri ng en ha nc ed cont rol of plan ni ng an d pr od uc ti on The sy st em wi ll al so opti mi ze ener gy us ag e, usin g re al -t im e da ta fr om th e pr od uction li ne s to br in g impr ovements in su st ai na bi li ty an d ef fi ci en cy, says the company.
Lo ca l su pplier s ar e al so inve st in g in ma rk et s fu rt her af ie ld to boost th ei r pr od uc tivi ty On th e ba ck of in cr ea se d de ma nd fo r ma dein-E ur op e pr oduc ts , Da hl in ge r is no w co ll ab or at in g wi th pr od ucti on pa rt ne rs ac ro ss th e re gi on to pr od uc e âb ox es an d ca se s th at st an d ou t fr om pu re ly ma ch in ema de bo xe s, â hi gh li gh ts dâAd amo by co mb inin g âc reat iv it y, hi gh-qua lity te ch nica l equipment an da to uc h of c r af ts ma ns hi pâ Ri ss ma nn , me an wh il e,wh ic h entr us ts it s op er at io ns re qu ir in g ma nu al fi ni sh in g to wo rk sh op s in Hu ng ar y, ha s al so op en ed a pl an t in Bu lg ar ia de di ca te d to pr od uc in g sh op pi ng ba gs an d bo xe s. Wi th al l th is ac tivi ty, it is ho pe d th at gr ow th is on ca rd s fo r ye ar s to co me . n
Nestled in the hills of Arouca a shor t drive from Porto, family-owned Portuguese manufacturer Camarc creates wood coïŹrets mainly for the wine and spirits trade. As Sales Director Rui Duar tetells Formes de Luxe, Camarcâs âone-stop shopâ positioning is helping to grow its presence in a luxury market where âmade in Europeâ is gaining ground. Ca ma rc
âAsa family-owned company, we favor steady growth That said, wehave the potential to double the production surface at our current siteâ
My father Antonio Duarte founded the company in 1976 At the time it wa sa small ca rpentr y and cabinetmaking workshop and from there we began to specialize in wooden boxes and coïŹrets. Our presence in Arouca playsa central role in Camarcâs identity. Fi rst, in term s of sourci ng as Arouca is wood country with a wide variety of species: a local pine that is particularlyresistant due to the shale and gr an ite-rich soil, oa k, acacia , chestnut, cork oak⊠As a Unesco site recognized for its unique geological heritage, the woodla nds are protected; sourcing is closely controlled. Th e bu lk of th e wo od we bu yâ so li d wo od âi s so ur ce d wi th in a 10 0-ki lome te r ra diusfr om ou r factor y; the rema inder comes from Eu rope and the US for wa lnutor cherry wood, for example. In addition, weâve acquired 32 hecta re s of la ndne ar the factor y and have planted more than 5,000 trees there. Ou r cl ient Ba ron de Rothschild has also sponsoreda parcel of la nd with one tree planted for each coïŹret manufactured.
Antonio Duarte, fondateur, etRui Duarte, directeurdes ventes Antonio Duarte, Founder, andRui Duarte, Sales Director.
CoïŹ ret bois Ă glissiĂšre pour les champagnes Bollinger. A sliding lid coïŹ ret for Bollinger champagne.
Camarc prop ose aussi des solutions carton et bois
Camarc also oïŹers cardboard and wo od coïŹ rets
be come rather ri sk aver se Add to that the ecological impact of shipping great dist ance s. Th is combinat ion of reloca lization and work ing with renewable materials has certainly been a boon for us
What is your current capacity, and what are your ambitions?
RD: Wooden cases donât require the same labor intensit y as do premium coffrets, but overall, we are ta lk ing about more than one mill ion units of pack agingper year As a fa milyow ne d comp any, we favor st ea dy growth.That said, we have the potential todouble the production surface at our current site.
Un coïŹ ret premium pour le porto de la maison Taylor âs A premium coïŹ ret for Taylor âs port
RD: Camarc covers the entire supply chain for wood-based packaging. Yes, one of our diïŹerentiating factors is ou r integrated supply chain. We work with a sawmill directly across the street from our site and purchase the wood green. We dry it in-house using renewable energy, both from solar and by heating production oïŹcuts. (100% of the energy we use is renewable, of which 60% comes from solar power.) The wood is stocked and processed within our four walls: cutting, planning, assembly... Having stock gives us ïŹexibilit y, allowing us to respond to urgent orders, for example. We also do our own decoration, from stamping and branding to hot stamping, silk-screening, embossing/debossing and digital printing 3-D prototyping is also on oïŹer
Beyond your specialty in wood, you are increasingly working with alternative cellulose-based products.
RD: Yes, namely wood-based materi al s: pa pe r, ca rd bo ard and cork . Ot her opt ions , includ in g le at her, are also available. Our dual-material paper/ca rdboard and wood coffrets allow for quitea bit of creative freedom and Camarc is becoming known for these solutions
Eu rope an br ands are look in g to mo re lo ca l pr od uc ti on . Is th is helping to boost your business?
The Covid crisis showed the market how risky sourcing infar-oïŹregions could be, and as a result brands have
Is Ca ma rc poised toente rot he r market sectors?
RD: Today about 90% of our businessis in wine and spirits, but we are open to working with other segments forsecondar y pack s: fragra nce and cosmetics is just one example.
What is in the innovation pipeline?
RD : Weâre lo ok in g to of fer nove l mono-material solutions in line with market demand. Our latest patented model, designed to eliminate the need for thermoformed inserts, illustrates this: touches of cork positioned at key points inside the wooden coïŹret hold the bott le in place, prevent it from turning so that the label always faces out and protects the coiïŹe. Itâs a simple design, but in the luxury space, if an item is well-crafted, thereâs noneed for complicated solutions! And since cork is essentially wood, we are remaining within the monomaterial scope.
Wh at ar e the ch al le ng es fa ci ng your market?
RD: One diïŹculty is that there is no lobby thatrepresents the wood packaging industry (as there is in paper). This would help us communicate on the fact that wood, when properly sourced and treated, is indeed a sustainable solution for packaging. The ot her chal lenge is to communic ate to our potential clients what Camarc is all about. For that to happen, the ideal solution is for brands to come see what we do here in Arouca! n
âAll pa ck ag in g th at ente rs th e ma rk et mustbe recyclable.â
Th isis on e of th e key requirements of the European regu lationon pack agi ng and pack ag ing wa ste soon to be adopted by the European Union. The current text of the PPWR (Propo sa l Pa ck ag in g an d Pa ck ag in g Waste Regulation) speciïŹes that this obligation wi ll go into ef fect from 2030 ât he ïŹ rst in the world to be applied at such a scale.
âI f th e Eu ro pe an la w is im pl emented, we ca n assu me that it will spur others like it around the world, and that the best practices it proposes will serve as a model. In any case, we hope that the rules willeventually be standardized, as todayâs recyclabilit y gu idel ines di ffer from countr y to countr y, includ ing within Eu rope
has yet to emerge at the federal level, some st ates are be gi nn in g to ta ke action. One ex ample is Ca lifornia, with its Senate Bill 54,which aims to reduce plastic pollution through va riou s me asures , includ in g re cycl in g. Th e fi gh t ag ai ns t pl as ti c pollut ion is al so the subjec t of an internationa l treaty currently being drafted by the United Nations Environment Progra m (UNEP), which includes managing end-of-life issues raised by materials.
As a resu lt, the noose is tightening around those brands who choose not to heed th is ne w imperative. Cosme tics compan ie s are pa rt ic ul arly conc er ne d be caus e the pa ck ag in g they ge ne ra te is am on g the mo st diïŹcult to recycle, due to its variet y and ab ov e- av er ag e te ch nica l and aesthetic sophistication.
Technica l obstacles
Th e fi rs t di ff ic ulty th es e br an ds fa ce is th at they cons um ea wi de va ri et y ofpl as ti cs , wh ic h ha ve to be pr oc es se d se pa ra te ly. It is im po ss ib le to mi x gr ad es of di ffe re nt ma te ri al s wh en th e go al is to obta in a hi gh-qua lity re cycled
The glass bottle is equipp ed with a cap, pump, and reïŹll, all madeof polypropylene. Only the reïŹll cap is made of polyethylene Quad pa ck
product that ca n be reused in other ma nu fact ur ing proc es se s. Fr ance is at the fore front of packaging regu lation with it s two Agec an d cl im at e an d resi li en ce la ws , and yet the countr y on ly cu rrently re cycles th re e ki nds ofpl astic: PE (polyethylene), PET (polyethylene te re phth al at e), an d PP (p ol ypropylene). Ex tr uded or expa nded PS (p ol ys ty re ne) wi ll so on be ad de d to the list, follow ing the launch of two dedicated recycling plants, one in Belgium equipped with pyrolysis chemical recycling technology, and the other in Spain.
These four plastics are pa rt icularly in demand within the food industry and representa volume of packaging wa ste that ju stiïŹes the ex istence of re cy cl in g ch an ne ls on ec on om ic grou nd s. If we follow th is li ne of thinking, materials used on a smaller scale,whether plastic or not, are removed from the st ream.There is no recycling channel for these materials, so they can nolonger be used in pack aging. Thisis the ca se for ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) and SA N (sty rene-acr ylonitri le), which are highly popular in the cosmetics sector At one time, it wa s thought that these materials mightbe compatible withthe futurePSrecycling channel since they all belong to the st yren ic s fa mi ly. But ac cord ing to Cotrep, the Tech nica l Comm it tee for the Recycling of Plastic Pack aging in France, thisha s been ru led out as they could disrupt theïŹow Both resins have their own particular streng ths. Shock- and scratch-resista nt , and ea sy to ga lv an iz e, AB S ea sily pa ss es the so -c al le d âh andbagâ resistance tests when used in the form of caps, lids, or small technical parts, such as hinges and closures for ma ke-up ca ses. SA N is appreciated for its transparency.
In addition, before pack ag ing ca n be recycled, it must ïŹrst be correctly identiïŹed and sorted. But the process is not without its obstacles. Because they are of ten small in size, beauty products, and ma ke-up products in pa rt icular, pa ss th roug h the fi lters installed in sorting centers to eliminate certain undesirable and potential ly da ngerou s produc ts, such as sy ringes and broken glass. Because of this, they end up with ârejectedâ materials. EïŹorts are being made to re duce the si ze of the hole s in the ïŹ lters, but there is litt le to be done about the packagingâand it would be absurd to make it any bigger Design, on the other hand, can oïŹer modiïŹcations to the shape and deco-
LE RECYCLAGE DES MATĂRIAUX ASSOCIĂS ET SES SUBTILITĂS RECYCLING COMBINATIONS OF MATERIALS: NO EASY TASK
A glass container is easy to recycle, even when thrown away witha capmadeof plastic, metal, wood, or cork In France,this currently leaves the doorop en to ABS.
âInthe case of a glass bottle with anABS cap, the glass bottle is the majo rity element byweight The presence of ABS is not incompatible with recycling in the glass sector
So this type of pack aging is not covered by the Climate and Resilience Ac t, when it prohibit s âpackaging made
whollyor partlyof polymers or st yrenic copolymers which are non-recyclable and unable to be recycled,â as of Januar y 1, 2025,â explains Margaux Valentin, Eco- design Projec t Manager at Citeo.
On the other hand, it is forbidden tocombine anABS cap with a PE T jar. It is also forbidden to pairglass with infusible materials such as porcelain, ceramic, or stone, orwith non-magnetic metals or metals that reac t to eddy currents, such as brass and stainless steel.
The metals isolated in sorting centers are steel and aluminum. Packaging comprising metal alloys will be directed towards the magnetic streamassociated with their majority material The combination of metal and plastic can be problematic. A powder container with a metalpan, for example,could be mistakenly directed to the metal stream ratherthan the plastic stream
Moreover, according to Cotrep, metal interferes with PE and PP recycling and is incompatible with PE T recycling. n
Following an eco-design study led by Cooperative Mu the jar for Givenchyâs Le Soin Noir mask went from glass with a plastic insert to a fully recyclable plastic solution
Quadpack âs Ultra Solo is asinglematerial airless bottle, with comp onents made entirely of polyethylene, including the metalfree pump ac tivator.
ration of packaging. A product that moves on conveyor belts may not be detected,a no -go so round shapes with rigid, non-compressible materials are best avoided. When it comes to decoration, plastics in carbon black or with meta lliz ed su rfac es shou ld be avoided if optical sorting is being used: the former âabsorbsâ the beam, ma king it impossible to analyze the nature of the plastic used, while the latter reïŹects the beam. Another fact to be aware of:a plastic bottle covered with a very large paper label will be directed towardsthe paper stream and not the plastics stream Al l pa ck ag in g de si gn wi ll have to integrate these recyclabilit y criteria âWe need to stop focusing solely on aesthetics and ïŹnda way of expres-
Focusingon an innovative and ethical approach to âsocial sustainabilityâ and concrete solutions, Switzerland-based FR&PARTNERS SA has designed FR.HANDLY Accessor y Kit. The oïŹer aims to help cosmetic brands take a more sustainable and inclusive approach to their products Interview with Federico Reggiani, Founder and CEO of FR&PARTNERS.
How to be st in tr od uc e FR&PARTN ER S?
The Re gg ia ni fa mi ly ha s be en work ing in the cosmetic pack aging indu st ry si nc e th e 19 40 s, fi rs t wi th CA RL O RE GGIA NI s.p. a., sold in the 1980âs , follow ed by MA PL AS T SR L, sold in 2008 . Fo un de d in 2012 ,I re pr es en t FR &PAR TN ER Sâ th ir d ge ne ra ti on The comp any op er at es withth is pe rspect ive in mind: âOnly th roug h st rong kn owle dg e of th e ma rk et an d it s ke y players ca n we eïŹectively anticipate and turn crit ic al issues into opport unit ie sâ FR&PARTNER S is a provider of beauty pa ck ag in g so lu ti on s an da hu b of idea s, insights, and inspiration. We deliver high-value pack ag ing solutions and integrated produc ts that are innovative,
su st ai na bl e, an d at th e fo re fr on t of te ch nolo gy, to le ad in g in te rn at io na l brands in the cosmetic industry. We aim to tu rn ch al leng es into grow th opportu nities by creating va lue with a port foli o th at re f l ec ts ou r fo rw ar d- lo ok in g pe rs pe ct iv e wh il e re ma inin g hi gh ly prac tica l.
Pr io ri ti zi ng tr an sp ar en cy fr om th e beginning of a project to its completion, we promotea su st ai na ble be auty soluti on s ec os ys te m th ro ug ha fu si on of hu ma n- centered ne ss and coll abor at ive expert ise.
Your in spir at ion kit wa s aw ar de d at Cosmoprof Worldw ide Bologna. How is it in novative for cosmet ic br ands ?
FR .H AN DLY KI T st an ds out for it s comm it ment to inclusiv it y, de signed to
ma ke cosmetic products more accessible to consumers with de velopmenta l disabi lities. We explored va riou s ty pologies of limitations in term s of mobi lity, de xterity and visu al impa irment to create a kit of fi ve fu nc ti on al ac ce ss or ie s th at adapt to all cosmetic pack aging, ma king them more ac ce ssible Cosmet ic brands do nât ha ve to de si gn , or ma ke co st ly inve st ment s, but simply choose the prefe rr ed FR .H AN DLY KI T ac ce ss or y th at w i ll ma ke th ei r pa ck ag in g mo re intu it ive and user-f riendly.
Fi rs t there is Soft Prehen sion,a PP ja r with a soft touc h ïŹn is h th atoïŹ er s an
ergonomicopen in g de sign. Combined wi th vo lu me sy mb ol ma rk in gs , it is ea si ly identi ïŹable for people with visu al impa irments. The Adaptive Sleeve brush ha ndle is ea sy to gr ip by th os e wi th li mi te d de xt er it y, wh il e th e Gr ip & Glow si licone or rubber component stabi li ze s the pack age, without slipping or fa ll in g, when ex tr ac ti ng contents . The orig inalit y of the In ïŹnite Ring is that it al lows you to ma nipu late it s two wings with just one ïŹnger, or even grasp it s two wi ng s with your teet h, to apply glos s or lips tick . The LI FT (L im it le ss Inclusiv it y Freedom Tool), for it s pa rt, ex te nd s the re ac h of the ha nd or ar m, with a ha ndle ad apted to grip (f rom the outside or inside of the sphere) and ut ili ze a ma sc ara, pencil or ma rker.
Wh at are the ne x t steps for the compa ny ?
FR .H AN DLY KI T is cu rrently under de ve lopme nt . Af te r Co smoprof Bologna, we made a fe w tech nica l improvement s and are ai mi ng to comple te the de ve lo pm ent pr od uc ti on mo ld in th e next two months From next September, we mu st be able to gu arantee al l of the ma ndator y homologation te st s requ ired by the Di sa bi lity Author it yâ ve ri fy in g qu alit y, sa fety and high performa nc e.
The home fragrance market is expanding its ranges and increasing its oïŹerings to deliver multiform, multi-format, and multi-functional, products thereâs something for ever yonehere.
Itâs no sc oo p: si nc e th e 20 00 s, ho me fr ag ra nc e, le d by ca ndle s, ha s be en ga inin g gr ound wh il e mo vi ng up -m ar ke t. Bu t in 2020 â2 021, th is pi ck ed upmome nt um, and la st ye ar alone, in the prestigese gment and in North America/Europe, the segment generated $450m.
2 02 0â 20 21 , p ic ke d up m omentu m, a nd l as t i n prestige seg ment A merica /Europe, no longer growth during
âWeâre nolonger ex perienci ng the double-digit grow th seen by the category du ring the Covid pa nd em ic , bu t th e ma rk et is hold in g it s ow n, with ov er al l
gr ow th of 4% dr iven by gi ft se ts ,â sa ys Ma th il de Li on of Ci rc an a. âT he se co nt inue to perfor m we ll (+32% la st ye ar) in a ma rket st il l dominated by candles,which account for 63% of sa le s. â Me anwh ile, gr ow th in di ff user s (18% of sa le s) ha s ea se d of f with an increa se of 4% in 2023, while sprays â2% of the ma rketâposte d aboveaverage grow th at +6%.
âC on su me rs re di sc ov er ed ho me fr ag ra nc es du ri ng th e lo ck do wn s, an d de sp it ea
slowdown in the category, there ha s be en nono ta bl e re ve rs al si nce then Wh ile cont rovers y over the impact of home scents on health may deter increa singly we ll-i nfor me d consumer s, the fact rema ins that alongside hi stor ic br ands focu se d on ai r ca re , th er e is gr ea t po te nt ia l fo r fi ne fr ag ra nc e br an ds to ex pa nd pr od uc t li ne s, â no te s Lion.This is particularly true in Europe âwhere the marketlags si gnif ic antl y be hi nd th e US , the leading countr y in terms of
sa lesâ and especially at the top and very top end of the market.
âT he mo st ex pe ns iv e co ll ections are recording the strongest growth, with +12% for products co st in g mo re th an $5 0 an d +31% for references costing over $100, sold at an average price of $140,â she adds
Home sweet home
Th is po te nt ia l fo r ex pa ns io n ha s not es ca pe d the at te nt ion of majorbr ands in ïŹne perf u-
mery or fa sh ion, amon g other pi ll ar s of the lu xu ry indu st ry. Rega rd less of their footprint in the segment, they are all getting up to speed. Puig, for example, cr ea te da de di ca te d Ho me department last summer. âSince th e Co vi d pa nd em ic , pe ople ha ve re fo cu se d on th ei r interiors, anda real ma rket ex ists,â says Xavier Lebouc her, Di re ctor of Pack ag ing De velopment & In no vation âOf cour se, itâs debatable whet her thereâs room for ever yone, but we intend to
as sert ou r pres ence by de ve lopi ng de dicate d collec tion s for all our brands.â
At Pu ig , By re do, Penh al igonâs and LâArtisa n Pa rf umeur already have a foot in the door, and while Leboucher remains discreet about projects in the work s, he insists that the Groupâs ambition is not to limit itself to developing ca ndle s, sprays, di ff user s, and dete rg ents ba se d on the fl agship fragrances of its brands; the established trend of translating sk in frag ra nc es into home fra-
grances has its limits, and some observers say it is running out of steam. The idea here is to develop new, category-speciïŹc references âA nd itâs not that simple: thisis a demanding segment thatrequires sp ec if ic kn ow-h ow. Wh et he r weâre talking about our in-house teams or our suppliers and packagers, we want to structure this new division around people with this core expertise.â
Is th is a ca ll to ac tion for suppl iers?No ne ed : they, to o, are standing ready. Scentys, a major
p la ye r in fr ag ra nc e di ff us io n syst emsâwit h nu merous creations for brands including Diptyque and Jo Ma lone, and more re ce nt ly Se rg e Lu te ns âh as grow n its investments in recent years. âTo move to fu ll service, we have invested âŹ1m in equipment enabli ng us to automatica lly pers on al iz e pr im ar y and secondar y brand pack s, â reports Chairma n Pierre Loustric. This service comes in addition to the deploy ment of 3D printers and the op en in g of a subsid ia ry
in Ne w York, âto be as close as po ss ib le to ou r cu st om er s in a zone th at we know to be strategic.â
For cert ai n te ch nica l pa rt s, as we ll as de si gn el em en ts , th e company is increa si ng ly using additive ma nu fact uring, pa rt icularly for limited editions â3D pr inti ng al lows us to be more re sp on si ve , wh il e ul ti ma te ly prov ing le ss cost ly for ou r cu stomers than creating a conventional mold,â he explains And brands are getting on board: the
Olfactive Stereophonique,a diffu ser co -desig nedby By redo x Ojasand produced in a limited edition of 2,000 pieces, features a st ee l bo dy ad or ne d wi th a resin megaphone that wa s printed using liquid nylon.
Mitigating health risks
There rema ins the thorny question of the toxicity levels of fragr an ce s, an is su e with wh ic h Loustric seems perfectly at ease
âWe donât fa ce the sa me pr o-
blems as thewax ma kers First, because thereâs no combustion and second, in both dr y di ïŹ usion and nebu li zation, we on ly use pu re conc entrates, with no adde d alcohol or solvents ,â he says. âFroma health standpoint, our te ch nologies are cu rrently the safest on the market.â Scenty s cart ridg e hold er s, al re ad y available in recycled polypropylene, now come in a biosourced po ly am id e, ba se d on na tu ra l minera l and plant ingredients. Wa x ma ker Deni s& Fi ls ren-
de rs ca ndle s pu re , wi th Ai r
Label cert if ic at ion to prove it. Gu ar an te ed to re le as e âv er y low em issions into indoor air,â
âBut Eu rope an regu lations are very strict in terms of emission thre sholds and volati le orga nic compou nd em ission s. Because fr ag ra nc es them se lv es ca n be pr ob le ma ti c, we sy st em at ica lly exclude al lergenic materi al s, su bs ta nc es cl as si fi ed as ca rc inogen ic , muta ge nic, and re pr ot ox ic (C MR ) and, more genera lly, SV HC (Substances of Very High Concern) In realit y, we are perfectly capable of developing air-safe candles today.â
Fo un de d in 19 02 an d EP VcertiïŹed, the company launched a 10 0% rapeseed alternat ive to mineral wa xes in 2012.âW hile kerosene wa x oïŹers better olfacto ry re pr od uc ti on an d mo re homogeneou s combustion, we can create beautiful things using a vegetable base, especially since not all kerosene wa xes are create d eq ua l. To da y, fa ce d with compet it ion from ot her indu stries, wa x ma kers are ïŹnding it increa si ng ly di ïŹc ult to source qualit y kerosene, and costs have
soared Thatâs even morereason to lo ok fo r pl ant- ba se d so lution s th at are morere sp ec tf ul of the planet.â Deni s& Fi ls is currently work ing on a new formula made from recycled plant materials, wh ich wi ll expa nd a ca ta lo g of ra pese ed bl en ds more loca l than soyâ enriched with coconut oi l or Fa ir-Trade shea butter for greater smoothness and optimized burn points. Eu rofrag ance is ta ki ng a si mila r approa ch to su st ai na bi lity LâĂm e du Bo is (a ca pt iv e
wi th wo od y no te s) an d Verden ix (a n ac tive ingred ient with anti-o dor prop er ties) are tw o of th e Sp an is h comp os ition houseâs note wort hy in novations,both of which make use of upcycling. âLâĂ me du Bois is derived from furniture industry wa ste in the form of red ceda r sa wd us t, â ex pl ai ns Ol iv ie r Anthony, Global Research and Innovation Manager. âWe develope d Ve rd en ix fr om the oi ly resi du es in he re nt in the Ăm e du Bo is ex tr ac ti on pr oc es s.
Both ingredients can,of course, be transposed to Air Ca re, and more speciïŹcally to Home Care, in the case of Verdenix, which is a contact active.â
Cu rr en tl y be in g la un ch ed , Aqua pu re , anot he r ec o-in nova ti on in th e re ed s ca te g o ry, oïŹers an entirely new approach to capillar y diïŹusion. âIts water ba se is en ha nc ed with su rf acta nt s,wh ic h re qu ir ed us to rethin k the choice of materials and the way we work withthem With no alcohol or solvents, we
achieve performance levels simila r to thos e of a convention al capi llar y ba se, in terms of evaporation, intensity anddiïŹusion time,â Anthony comments.
Lu xury & wellness
But be tw ee n na tu ra lnes s and pe rf or ma nc e ther e is anot he r cr iter ion to me et : the appe tite for holi st ic , we ll ne ss -oriente d produc ts Th is major trend in sk in fr ag ra nc es ha s re de fi ne d th e co nt ou rs of th e be au ty
ma rket and is spre ad ing to the home fragra nce category. âFragrances are moving beyond uses limited to social representation and gifting, and consumers are celebrating perf ume for its own sa ke,â says Ci rc anaâs Lion. âI n our Fragrance Consumer Report fr om 2023, an over whel mi ng majority of consumers said they choose fragra nce for themselves rather than for others, and that it ha s mo od -b oo st in g ad va nta ge s.Ha lf of th es e be au ty sh opp er s al so sa id th ey were
intere sted in sc ents th at could support physical and/or emotional well-being.â
In a st ud y al so publ is he d la st ye ar, Th e St at e of Fa sh ion Beauty, McKinsey high lighted the phenomenon with a fo cu s on ho me sc en ts : in te rm s of fr eq ue nc y ofpu rc ha se an d use, thes e topped the well ne ss oïŹer, fa r ahead of diet ar y supplements and spa-at-home products. In the US âwhere home fragra nces are regu la rly used by almost 70% of consumersâ
Harrod âs / Neom
BI Indu st rial
BI INDUSTRIAL & COSMĂTIQUE DE LUXE : UN PARTENARIAT GAGNANT-GAGNANT
BI INDUSTRIAL & LUXURY COSMETIC BRANDS: WIN-WIN PARTNERS
BI In du st ri al , an ex pe rt su pplier of high-end glass bottles, co nt inue s to ad ap t th e pe rfo rma nc e of it s li ne s to th e re qu irements of qu al it y, ef ficiency, and respect for the environment. âGloba l dema nd cont inue sto grow for ou r high-qua lity glass bott le s and plastic caps,â conïŹrms DavidChen, genera l manager of the company, headquartered in Hangzhou, Zhejiang province. With its glass bottle factories and plastic caps, this one-stop -shop prov ides comprehensive production and distribution worldwide. A tota l of six production lines ma ximize eïŹciency to achievea da ily production of 300,000 glass bottles and 200 million units over the year The construction of a new furnace is expected to be completed by the end of 2025 with a capacity of 120 tons per day. Also in Ha ng zhou, its two plastic factories are equipped with 125 injection presses and4 blowing lines.
New investments
BI Industrial deploysa solid investment dy na mic to supp ort it s cl ient s in thei r
growth âFor our glass production factory, our new 6-stor y building is ready to produce,â he says. There is also a new dedicated decoration line which is starting to work to broaden the choices for personalizing perfumes âIn the BI Industrial workshop, the range of technologies is already signiïŹcant, from classic ïŹocking, coating, screen printing and hot stamping, to the most modern such as ïŹre or hand polishing, plating, ïŹocking and laser engraving. For our plastic factor y, we acquired 20 new automatic injection and bonding machines and invested in many new molds to expand the design possibilities, he adds.A new injection technology is also twice as eïŹcient for large, heav y caps such as those in zamak.
âGrowingâ with customers
In addition to the in st al lation of sola r pa nels, init iative s are well underwayto have production that is both eïŹcient and responsible. Its current furnace, which produces 85 tons per day, consumes less energy thanks to natura l gas. In addition, BI Industrial supports its customers in packaging their products with environmentally friendly materials such as glass, aluminum, or PL A, and integrates a signiïŹca nt portion of recycled glass into its products, all in compliance with FDA, REACH and heavy metals certiïŹcations. âEïŹorts are focused on research into environmenta lly friendly materials such as polypropylene, notes David Chen And we use diïŹerent types of anti-shrinkage techniques to make the surface ofour plasticcaps more aesthetic. BI Industrial âs ambition is to continue to support its clients in their developments to âgrow togetherâ in the direction of a winwin partnershipâ!
The home fragrance market is undergoing majorrestruc turing. How might this aïŹec t you?
Julien Pruvost: The landscape has changed considerably in recent years, and major brands have a ïŹnancial and retailclout that cannot be ignored. That being said we are now well established,and thanks to our histor y and expertise, we have succeeded in winning the loyalt y of a large customer base For several years now, we have recorded double -digit grow th, with peak s of several tens of percent during the pandemic For us, it âs not all bad news when major players create their own candle collec tions:
they have to manufacture them, and we also work on a contract basis. Since the pandemic this part ofour business has risen sharply.
What are your current projects?
JP: Af ter our collab or ation withthe Archives Nationales (Tuileries candles) and the series with tea master MaĂźtre Tseng, we re cently launched the Vers ailles collec tion in collab or ation withthe city of Vers ailles base d onde corations dr awn from the archives of the municipal libr ar y.
As for retail, we will so on be op eninga boutique in London, and we plan to op en a third store in the United States, our leading market In the longer term, we alsoplan to inaugurate other boutiques in China.
Three years ago, you introduced a glass collec tion system in your Paris stores. What has been the response?
JP: It âs work ingvery well âalmos t to o well! For the time being,the glass collec te d is only re cycled but we are carryingout resistance test s on the tumblers that are returned to us, withthe idea of eventually being able to reuse them Glass hasa memory and depending on the way our customers have used their candlesâ burning them sp aringly or over sessions of 4 or 5 hoursâ it go es without saying that weak points may appear Of course, we donât want to take any risk s. n
Ay me ri c Bo ur do ul es , Me rch an di si ng Ma na ge r Be au ty at Pa ri s de pa rt me nt st or e La Sa marita ine, says , âA long side exceptional ca ndlesâIâm thinki ng of some ofou r bestsel lers such as the Abd el Kader candle (Tru do n), th e Fleu r dâ Or ange r di ff us er (Fra gona rd), and Di pt yq ue âs mu st-h av e Ba ie s ca ndle âs o- ca lled fu nc tion al fragrances, speciïŹca lly designed with well-being in mind (relaxation, conc entrat ion, emot iona l supp or t) are boomi ng , dr iven
by innovative technologies li ke ultrasonic diïŹ usion and microencapsulation.â
Ah ea d of th e la un ch of an ex cl us iv e li mi te d- ed it io n ca ndle de signed with Tr udon, La Sa mari ta in e or ga ni ze da Mo th er âs Da y ha pp en in g in May: an im mersive experience in th e Ho Ka ra n we ll ne ss ce nt er, wher e cu st omer s were invite d to te st the de toxi fy in g an d pu ri fy in g vi rt ue s of on e of th e br an dâs pr od uc ts th at fe at ur es a co mb in at io n of â
hemp terpenes and note s of sea spray from Britta ny.
An object of desire
These de velopment s shou ld nât ob sc ur e the fa ct th at ca ndle s and diïŹusers are not just objects for perf ume(s) ât he y are al so, and perhaps above al l, decorative object s in their ow n right. Indeed, the âluxiïŹcationâ of the segment coincided withthe shift in 20 06 â2 010 towa rd s gl as spoured candles, conïŹrming the
abandon of free-standing molded ca nd les,apar t from a fe w reinterpretation s (Trudon, Loewe, Hay, Stan Editions). Since then, ceramics, porcelain, biscuit, and earthenware have competed with glass in the premium segment. In an ultra-concentrated market where ïŹve internationa l brands, in cl ud in g Di pt yq ue an d Jo Ma lone, sh are more th a n ha lf of the pie (52% of sa le s ac cordi ng to Ci rc an a), st an d- ou t aesthetics count as much as distinctive olfactor y signatures.
Trois
questions Ă âŠ
Three
questions for...
ALBERTO MORILLAS, FONDATEUR DE MIZENSIR FOUNDER, MIZENSIR
Youâve been a wax-maker for25 years, and you were a pioneer in luxury candles. How did the venture begin?
AlbertoMorillas: It star ted out as a kindof âleisure ac tivity â for me, butthe process turned out to be more involved than I imagined Developing scents for candles is nothing like creating fragrances forthe body Candles are ex tremely technical and requirea return to the drawing board. I began by carryingouta meticulous inventor y: I tested each of my materialsâ over 1,50 0 at thetime âburning them, oneaf terthe other, to understandhowthey reac ted and expressed themselves.It wasa colossal job.
Apar t from the technical aspect, what is the fundamental diïŹerence between scents for the home and perfumes for the body?
AM: They are two distinct emotions Fragrance for sk in is a sculpture, while home scents are more like sketches If you work peonies into candles, for example, they must appear immediately, without being overshadowed by othermaterials. You have to get straight to the point. It âs allab out econ omy of means, ïŹguration,and simplicity
The Mizensir collec tions now include over 120 items. What is your favorite scent?
AM: Iâm following the trend: one for ever y ro om! In realit y, it reallydepends on the ro om and the moment In the kitchen, I enjoy lighting Verveine Menthe, which go es equally well with ïŹsh, meatâand raclet te! It âs alla ques tion of harmony: tr ying to mask an odor is futile, you have to work with it n
in du st ry prof es si on al s, an d ca ndle ma ke rs in pa rt ic ul ar, fo r so memo nt hs no w. Wi th the stricter application of European regulation no. 1272/2008, know n as CL P (Cla ssiïŹcation, Labelling, Pack aging), ma ndatory for chemical substances and mixtures, they are in the DGCCR Fâs sights. âWe are well aware of the need to clearly aïŹx pictograms and hazard warnings relating to theuse of our products,â they say, âbut in the case of decorative ca ndles,where the object
merges withthe pack, this alters the image of the product.â Applicable to mixtures since 2015, the current text requires that âlabels be fi rm ly at ta ch ed to on e or moresides of the packaging that direct ly contains t he substa nce or mi xture and be legible horizontally when the pack aging is placed in a normal position.â As it is nolonger possible to af fi x labels on ly to the underside of containers or to secondary packs, br andswi ll ha ve to ge t up to speed to stay in the game. n
Strikingone of these aromatic incense matches provides a ten- minute fragrant interlude: the concept, called Hibi Match, comes from Japan(Kobe Match Co).
T he Haas Mons ter Ball is an incense holder that sp eaks to oneâs inner child. Incense is positioned under the creatureâs porcelain torso and releases it s fragrant fumes through the fantas tica animalâs brass horns
At Oriz a L. Le grand, home fragrances come in sprays paper incense, and even parchment in the form of cotton gauze soaked in perf ume concentrate, intended to be cut into thin strips to scent drawers. It can also be burned The parchment features the fragrance Papier IndienEmpire des Indes, create d in 1886 for Queen Victoria who used it during her travels to sanitize the hotel ro oms she stayed in
OïŹcine Universelle Buly
Son
LâIDENTITĂ DE MARQUE SE MET AU PARFUM TRANSLATING BRAND IDENTITY INTO PERFUME
In the B2B realm, home fragrances are becoming olfactor y signatures. Sensorial marketing is also booming, says Valentine Pozzo di Borgo, head of Quintessence Paris.
ha t is yo ur modu s op er an di at Qu inte ssence?
Va le nt in e Po zz o di Bo rg o: We st ar t with a projec t, bu ild a te am arou nd itâper fu mers, supplier sâ and delivera tu rnke y pr od uc t (i nc lu di ng pa cka gi ng ) to ou r cu stomer s. We work bit li ke outs ou rc ed pr oject ma na gers. For concentrates, we work with co mp os it io n ho us es Ta kasa go and IFF, some ti me s with
What âs the secret of a successfu l olfactor y signature?
VPB: At the point of sa le, weâre wary of scents that are too identiïŹable. We prefer more evasive, le ss ïŹ gu rative fr ag ra nc es Fr agrances that people will imbibe almost unknowingly.
Ca nd le s, di ïŹ us er s, sprays : is ther ea ne w ty pe of me dium emerging?
VPB: Ty pica ll y ca ndle sâ the id ea l gi ftâon mi ne ra l ba se s. So me 95% of ou r cu st om er s prefer mi nera l wa x. For logi sti ca l re as on sâ ve ge ta bl e wa x doesnât hold heat as well,which co mp li ca te s ex po rt in gâ an d fo r re as on s of si mpl ic it y: be ca us e of it s in tr in si c fr agr ance, ve getable wa x re qu ires fr ag ra nc e wo rk th at is le ss ea sily tr an sposed to ot her support s. At the sa me time, we are
also involved in di ïŹ usion, both dr y and by ne bu li za tion, and we re ce ive nu me rous re qu es ts fo r sc enti ng ti ss ue pa pe r an d sh ippi ng boxe s.
Wh ic h se ct or s ar e mo st in dema nd?
VPB: Itâs a mi xe d ba g. Weâve wo rk ed fo r Pi ag et an d th e Qata r Mu seum, on ca ndle s for Re ïŹec tion Copenh ag en, ba rs , guest houses and hotels li ke Le
Ri tz , fo r wh om we cr ea te da collec tion of ca ndle s in spir ed by François Perretâs pa st ries, as
wel l as th ree porc elain ca ndle s fe at ur in g the hote lâs si gn at ure em bl em s: th e sw an , th e su n and the ke y.
When it comes to frag ra nces, have you noticed any pa rt icula r trends?
VP B: No th in g th atre al ly st ands out, apar t from the fact that, genera lly spea king, people ar e wa ry of fr ag ra nc es th at ar e to o di st in ct iv e, an d te nd to go fo r fair ly co nv en tiona l sc ents Th er eâs ve ry litt le risk-t aking. n
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Specializing in wines and spirits, the Cognac-based design studio opened its doors to Formes de Luxe to share both its creative processes and the latest trends
In th e en tr yw ay, ph ot os of th e teamâaround 10 people âline the wa ll âWe wa nt to in st il la fa mi ly home feeling,â points out La ga rde. A show rooom space high lights the latest creations: the premiu m Ne w AngoulĂȘme Gin, dedicated to New York (which formerly bore the name New AngoulĂȘme),a gin distilled and
meaning,â she insists. And this ca n extend to suggesting new ingredients or new tasting notesâsomething that the agency is increasingly doing today. In the workshop, projects come to life. Against the wall, around 100 bottles are displayed. âThese are stock items from glassmakers as well as formats we âve create d for them,â ex pl ai ns Lagarde. âWe are one of the rare agencies that workâin the shadowsâon designing collections for glassmakersâ There are also sa mples of stock and bespoke caps on show.A materials library, with papersmade from natura l fibers, mycelium, cact i, etc., is enriched over time
There are two 3D printers to ma ke PL A protot ypes of modeled bottles. âWe also work in Plexiglas and Pyrex and use glass paste to create ïŹnishing touches, such as caps,â she adds.A press allows for embossing, gilding, etc. âT he de velopment pa rt ofou r work diïŹerentiates us as we ensure a projectâs technical feasibility.â
Keeping tabs on trends
At the back of the workshop,a mood board sets the tone. âArchitecture, furniture, jewelry, leather goods, fashion, perfumery⊠All of these sectors inspire us,â comments Lagarde. âWe look
So what about current trends? Organic, indulgent, enveloping shapes in a spirit of cocooning and well-being, says the designer, and the rise of natural materials, such as marble or linen. Thatâs for the design aspect But itâs also about adapting to novel modes of pu rc ha si ng and cons umpt ion. âThe aim is to bring the increasingly demanding and curious consumer to have an experience: througha ritual, work inga recipe in a new way, openi ng and di sc over in g the produc t with new gestures This can also be a brand for whichthe consumer will be the bartender,â notes Lagarde. All of this, of course, underlined by sustainability concerns.
As the smile becomesa central part of beauty and wellness routines, gone are the days of simple mint toothpastes. The emerging luxury oral care space is pitching anti-aging ingredients and dental serums, talking about the oral microbiota and comingout with packaging that goes against traditional codes. We spotlight ïŹve oral care brands that stand out from the crowd.
The Smilist
CIBLER LE MICROBIOTE BUCCAL TARGETING ORAL MICROBIOTA
âT he luxury oral care market is rapidlyevolving with growingdemand for itemsthat are botheïŹec tive and natural. Consumers are prepared to invest in qualit y and more sophisticated produc ts like mouthwashes and dental serums,â aïŹrms premium French oral care brand The Smilist. Founded in 2022,the brand is resp onding to this evolution by integrating prebiotics into it s formulas to oïŹer âinnovative produc ts that contribute to balanced oral microbiota, essential to our overall wellbeing.â Its range, which includes the Gum Regenerating Toothpaste and Tooth-whitening Night Serum, contains Microbiotic Floral Complex, a combination of patented solidago ïŹower ex trac t and prebiotics aimed âto reduce the presence of seven types of harmful bacteria and stimulatethose essential for a healthy mouth.âIts Ecocer t- certiïŹed formulas are made in France As regards it s pack aging, The Smilist opts for toothpaste tubesmadeof aluminum, whilethe dental serum comes in a glass ïŹacon.Secondar y pack s integrate 40% recycled paper and are printed with soy and water-based inks Sold in pharmacies, parapharmacies, specialist stores and via it s e-boutique (where produc ts are sold individuallyor through a subscription model),the brand says it is expanding its retail presence in it s home market aswell as targeting international development. n
Selahatin FAIRE DâUN SOIN BUCCO-DENTAIRE UN INSTANT DE LUXE A LUXURY ORAL CARE MOMENT
Swedish oral care brand Selahatin launched in 2018 withthe aim of elevating the ritualaroundoral care âOurday star ts and ends withthese produc ts so they setthe emotional tone,â remark s Founder KristoïŹer Vural. From it s debut line of three whitening toothpastes, the company now marketsa port folio of more than 40 produc ts and is stocked in over 30 countries. Formula-wise, Selahatinâs range contains essential oils (t ypicallynot found in oral care) prized fortheir antibacterial prop erties, aswell asantioxidants.And while almost allthe brandâs toothpastes have a mint y base,a few spices, such as cinnamon and cardamom have been thrown in to some items.
The pack aging design features a custom typeface and toothpaste tubes are madeof 10 0% aluminum sourced from German company Linhardt Eau dâEx trait Oral described as a âmouth perfumeâ, is a luxury take on a mouth spray and comes in a glass ïŹacon supplied by Coverpla Selahatinâs mouthwash ïŹacons are from glassmaker Heinz Glas and can be teamed with limited-edition sleeves that are handmade in Stockholm using vegetable tanned Italian leather. n
Twice
BIEN-ĂTRE POUR LA BOUCHE, LE CORPS ET LâESPRIT ORAL WELLNESS FOR MOUTH, BODY AND SOUL
US -b as ed or al ca re br an d Tw ice wa s fo un de d in 2018 by tw o br ot he rs fr om a fa mi lyofde nt is ts an d Le nny Kr av it z; th e tr io me t wh il e pr ov id in g fr ee de nt al wo rk in ar ti st âs fa mi ly âs ho me to wn
Tw ice un de rw en ta br an d an d pa ck ag in g re va mp in 2022 wi th th e he lp of To ronto- ba se d ag en cy Co nc re te, wh ic h came up wi th th e ta gl in e, Or al We ll ne ss fo r Yo ur Mo ut h, Bo dy an d So ul in li ne wi th th e br an dâs fo un di ngprinc ip le th at ho li st ic or al ca re is a cr it ic al pa rt of ov er al l phys ic al he al th âWe st ay ed away fr om th e sl ic k ae st he ti c em pl oy ed by ma ny or al ca re br an ds ,â sa ys Co nc re te, in stea d em brac in ga mo re mi ni ma l ap pr oa ch to br an di ng âF or in st an ce, we us ed only a si ng le ty pe fa ce
(C al so n Io ni c, de si gn ed by Pa ul Ba rn es an d Gr eg Ga zd ow ic z fo r Co mm erci al Ty pe) wh ic h fo rced us to fi nd cr ea ti ve so lu ti on s to br in g va ri et y an d hi er arch y in to th e id en ti ty.â
Th e br an dâs co lo r pa le tte, al so mini ma l, be came a dram at ic st atemen t.
âT he or al ca re se ctor tr ad it io nal ly sh ie s away fr om th e co lo r ye ll ow be ca us e of it s as so ci at io ns wi th ye ll ow te eth Bu t th is cr ea te d an oppor tu ni ty to br ea k away fr om su ch li te ra l th in ki ng an d co nn ec t to th e po si ti ve em ot io ns as so ci ated wi th th e co lo r,â th e ag en cy ex pl ai ns
Th e se co nd ar y pa ck ag in g, pr od uced by Acor n Ea st is pr in te d on th e ma tte un de rs id e of pa pe r stoc k. A re gi ster ed em bo ss wa s us ed on th e sm al l acce nt co lo r deno ti ng th e pr od uc t fl av or an da la rg e bl in d embos s of th e lo go fe at ur es o n th e si deof th e ca rton
Tw ice cl ai ms toco mb in e cu tt in g-ed ge sc ie nce wi th cl ea n in gr ed ie nt s, an d it s pr od uc t li ne up incl ude s th e Or al We ll ne ss Im muni ty Ri ns e, a mo ut hw as h th at co nt ai ns co ll oi da l si lv er to su ppor t na tu ra l im mu ne de fe ns es an d re du ce bi of il m bu ildu p; al oe ve ra fo r it s an ti -i nf la mm ator y prop erti es , an d sp irul in a th at is sa id to he lp re du ce de nt al pl aque an d in fl am mati on n
Tw ic e
Bite
FORMULES RECHARGEABLES ET WATERLESS REFILLABLE, WATERLESS FORMULAS
Founded in 2017 by Lindsay McCormick, a former surfer sensitive to the ocean plastic problem, US brandBite launched with pressed toothpaste âbitsâ oïŹering an alternative to traditional toothpaste tubes. Bite highlights the waterless,travel-friendly asp ec t of it s formulas To use,consumers chew untila powder is formed,then brush witha wet toothbrush Formulated in -house andmade in California,Bits are certiïŹed vegan and contain nano hydrox yapatite (the s ynthetic version of hydrox yapatite, which occurs naturally in the body and keeps tooth enamel strong) and plant- derived ingredient s. They are pack aged in glass jars with aluminum lids, while reïŹlls are housed in compos table pouches. For it s paper pack aging,the brand favors FSC- certiïŹed cardboard and water-based inks B- Corp certiïŹed,Bite has since expanded it s produc t oïŹer to includea deodorant in a reïŹllable, aluminum case Produc ts can be purchased individuallyor viaa subscription model. n
vVAR DIS LâANTI-ĂGE DENTAIRE ANTI-AGING FOR TEETH
Dentist duo Doctors Haleh and Golnar Abivardicreated Swiss oral care brand vVardis back in 20 03 with what it called the âthe ïŹrst teeth anti-agingritualâ. Its patented technology is based on researchinto biomimetic science research; at it s hear t is the P11- 4, a small intelligent peptidemadeof naturally occurring amino acids. Bypatentingthe processthat mimics nature to create new Hydrox yapatite cr ystals, scientists at vVARDIS saythey have founda way to regenerate tooth enamel. Produc ts includ ea White En am el Se rum, which is de sc ribe d as âan inte nsive treatm entâ th at create s ne w white en am el in se ve n days th an ks to th e pate nted Hydrox yaPe pt id e500 co mp le x. Th e br an dâs En am el Hi gh li ghte r mo ut hw ash co nt ains Zinc-Pepti de Co mp le x10 fo r âb ri ght an d gl ossy â en am el As fo r it s pa ck ag in g, vVardis opte d fo ra sl ee k, minima list ae st he ti c th at is mo re ty pi ca l of lu xu ry sk in ca re th an or al ca re n
MarlĂšne Huissoud work s for and with insects. Her ecological discourse is based on experimentalar tistic research thatresults in intriguing work s made from unusual materials.
The world of in se ct s is both fa sc in at in g an d ho rr if yi ng âa nd it âs a world th at Ma rlĂšne
Hu issoud ha s decided to in ha bi t an d sh ar e. âI tr y to br in g more unde rs ta nd in g to the way we consider in se ct s, â she te ll s Fo rm es de Lu xe. Hu is soud create s or ga nic sc ulpt ures with troubl in g ca vities , wo rk s th at ar e ha lf an ima l and ha lf pl antâ ge nu ine Ar t
Br ut spec im en s
To un de rs ta nd Hu is so ud âs wo rk re qu ir es a re tu rn to he r co un tr y ro ot sâ a ch il dh ood sp en t in th e Al ps al on gs id e he r fa th er , a beek ee pe r. As a li tt le gi rl , sh e pl ay ed at ma ki ng am us em en t pa rk s fo r in se ct s. To da y, sh e bu il ds th em ho me s, li ke th e ch ai r sh e ma de fo r th e ga rd en s of Lo nd on âs Th ur lo e Sq ua re , in te nd ed to pr ot ec t po ll in at or s, not to we lc ome we ar y wa lk er s.
Hu is so ud âs ex pe ri me nt al ap pr oa ch is in fo rm ed in pa rt by he r t r ai ni ng at Ce nt ra l Sa in t Ma rt in s, where she en rolled af te r st ud yi ng at th e Ec ol e na ti on al e
ties , bu t fe w in di vi du al cl ie nt s, because she prefer s to see her creati on s co me to li fe ou td oo rs Sh e ha s be en ap pr oa ch ed by br an ds , so me of th em in th e lu xu ry se gme nt âI f th e pr oj ec t in vo lv es a de gr ee of gr ee nw as hi ng ,I wo nât do it ,â she wa rn s.
He r wo rk is an yt hi ng bu t fr ivo lo us , an d sh e is ea ge r to co lla bo ra te wi th sc ie nt is ts He r me ss ag e is on e of pr ag ma ti sm . âW ha t is re al ly ne ce ss ar y? Th is is the qu esti on I as k th roug h my work Ra th er th an ac tivi sm , it is a some wh at pr ov oc at iv e pr op os ition inte nd ed to pe rh ap s aw ak en cons cience s, â she ex pl ai ns
Th er e is in de ed a gr ow in g aw are ne ss of th e da ng er s th at th re ate n bi od iv er si ty Co ns id er ed so me th in g of an ec ce nt ri c wh en sh e be ga n wo rk in g wi th in se ct s over a de ca de ag o, Hu is soud says sh e no w re ce iv es mo re an d mo re re qu es ts He r ma jo r pr oj ec t, fo r wh ic h sh e is ra is in g fu nd s, involves creati ng a sort ofNo ah âs Ar k fo r in se ct s in he r Al pi ne home la nd . n Pa sc ale Ruchon
Antoinet te Pois son RAVIVER UNE TRADITION REVIVING TRADITION
Madame de Pompadour, mistress of Louis XVâwas founded in 2012 . At the time, domino paper formed the cr ux of the brandâs of fer along with boxes, lampshades, small pieces of fu rn it ure, cu sh ions al l made by ha nd. Since then, the ra nge ha s expa nded to include wa llpaper and fabrics, with motifs based on those of the domino paper. Several collections are launched every year
Decor and symbolism
Domi no paper fi rst appe ared well before the 18th cent ur y, but it wa s during the latter period that it came into its own as a decorative technique. On an interiorâs walls, the successive owners superimposedlayers of paper, rather than tearing them oïŹ and starting afresh. There were several reasons for this: it was faster, of course, but it also served to insulate rooms for both heat and acou stic s. Al l these layers
te Poisson
permettait aussi dâisoler les piĂšces sur le s plan s thermique et ac ou st ique.
tell a stor y, enthuses Je an-Baptiste Ma rt in,Di rector and Co -fou nder of the company. âIt tells the histor y of a place, of the evolution of st yles and ta stes, and even ofpurcha sing powerâ we see it as a sociolog ic al study anda heritage that deserves to be preserved. This craft isnât about the pompous aspect of the 18th centur y, buta more popu la r and charming side Wealthy people acquired paintings, but the petite bourgeoisie had this paper. â Axelle de Fabr y, dominotiĂšre and Produc tion Ma na ge r at Antoinette Poissonâs Pa ris atelier, explains that the paper wa s used to line the inside of furniture and chests, as well as small rooms in the home, an alcove, or a pantry It was also used on small, ever yday objects: wedding boxes, books,stationery
The rules of theart
What defines domino paper? First, itâs a sheet of paper thatre spec ts a specif ic format: 45x36 cm, the size of the printing presses of the time. The name of the printer, the city and
The coloris brushed onto the sheet throug ha stencil, with finishes for small highlights or gradations, also by ha nd, explains the dominotiĂšre.
âBla ck, indi go, green. we have a lovely colorchart that expresses the spir it of 18 th -c entu ry co lo rs , bu t always with a slightly sepia tone That said, if you look through the archives, youâll be surprised at how vibrant the colors can be!â
The fi ni shed pr oduc t re ve al s the be auty of imperfec tion: each print di ïŹe rs sl ig ht ly, de pe nd in g on the te xt ur e of th e sh ee t, th e in k, th e hu midity, and the ambient temperatu re When applied to their support , the shee ts are la id out li ke a mosa ic: âThe edges are trimmed
La gamme de couleurs resp ec te les nuanciers du XV IIIe siĂšcle The rangeof colors is in line with 18 th centur y color char ts
and layered. The layering is done ac cord in g to the gr az in g li ght, so th at th e th ic kn es s of th at po rti on re ma in s in vi si bl e, â ex pl ai ns de Fabr y.
Th e do mi no pa pe r is pr od uc ed exclusively in the Pa ri s work shop, with arou nd th re e de si gn sa ye ar excluding collaborationsâin spring
2024 Antoinette Poisson launched a limited-edition collection with Fragonard (olive oil, soaps, cook book )â or specia l orders. Some very specia l orde rs inde ed . Du ri ng For me s de Luxe âs visit, a custom-made hatbox had just been lined in domino paper; the luck y customer wa nted a decorative touch for the box that wa s to house his Provencal straw hat.
