Visit Uzbekistan 29th Issue by Visit Uzbekistan Magazine

2021 • No. 29

Your Personal Travel Magazine

Karakalpakstan

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

2021 • No. 29

Editor-in-Chief Dinara Dultaeva Project Manager Sabina Odinayeva Graphic Designer Barot Rakhmatov Sales & Distribution Zafar Anvarov PR Department Ekaterina Ustinenko Proofreader Sophie Ibbotson

Karakalpakstan is not only a place of endless desert, cold winds, and the dry shores of the Aral Sea. It is also a land full of history, legends, traditions, and rituals. In this issue of Visit Uzbekistan magazine, you can get to know this autonomous republic better and make many discoveries for yourself. Your journey through the region will begin with the seven wonders of Karakalpakstan (p. 14), where you can find must-visit places for yourself and feel the atmosphere of the Karakalpak land. Nukus, the capital of the Karakalpak Republic, offers tourists many museums, attractions, and shopping opportunities (p. 19). It will be interesting for you to read an interview with the Karakalpak opera singer Zhenisbek Piyazov (p. 21), whose name is familiar to the whole world, as well as to learn more about the culture of this nation (p. 30). The team of Visit Uzbekistan magazine shares with you their impressions and emotions from participating in the recent Stihia Festival, which brought together people from different parts of the world and united them in Moynaq (p. 24). This issue would be meaningless without the mysterious Aral Sea (p. 40) and the Ustyurt Plateau (p. 44). Bright and colourful photos will transport you to this world for a while. Also, you will find an article about the national cuisine of Karakalpakstan, which is very different from the dishes of other regions of Uzbekistan (p. 48). The materials collected in this issue demonstrate how beautiful Karakalpakstan is and how many undiscovered mysteries hide there. Visit Karakalpakstan with us! Dinara Dultaeva

Dinara Dultaeva

@dultaeva

Contributors Fatima Arifdjanova, Irina Perova, Zahra Kazimova Guzal Kambarova, Inna Anokhina, Odina Ulugbekjanova, Alya Apassionata, Alena Gorbacheva, Sabina Odinayeva, Shodiya Khamidullaeva, Yulya Darkova, Valeriya Galikhanova, Guljamal Uzakbergenova Photography Feruz Rustamov, Marat Nadjibaev, Yelena Yunes, Umid Yakubov, Almaz Aleyev, Andrey Arakelyan

Visit Uzbekistan magazine 2021, No. 29 Official partner The Ministry of Tourism and Sports Dinara Media Relations PC Dinara&Co. Trademark Tel.: +998 (93) 500 55 65 www.dinara.co | info@dinara.co The magazine is registered by Press and Information Agency of Uzbekistan on 12.05.2017. Registration number No. 0915 | ISSN 2181-9254 Printed by “Print.uz” 41/2, Mirabad street, Tashkent region, Uzbekistan. Order No. 1576 All rights reserved. © Dinara&Co. © Dinara Dultaeva

CONTENTS

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

ISSUE NO. 29

JOURNEY: 7 Wonders of Karakalpakstan Where to go and what to see in Karakalpakstan?

INTERVIEW: Jenisbek Piyazov Interview with a famous opera singer from Karakalpakstan

EVENT: Stihia Festival The largest non-proﬁt open-air electronic music festival in Central Asia

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Mahalla by Shosh feel the warmth and taste of traditional Uzbekistan

Tightrope walkers show every Friday and Saturday. Address: 2, Islam Karimov str., hotel Hilton Tashkent City Telephone: +99894 940 10 18 | +99871 210 88 88 Open daily from 19:00. @MahallabyShosh

@MahallabyShosh

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VISIT UZBEKISTAN

ISSUE NO. 29

CULTURE: Integral parts of Karakalpak culture Some interesting aspects of Karakalpak culture which epitomise the rich history of this land

FASHION: Azucar Moreno Collection (backstage) Azucar Moreno’s team’s photoshoot in the most beautiful places of Karakalpakstan

VISIT: Aral Sea What was it like to swim in the Aral Sea?

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CONTENTS

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LANDSCAPE: Ustyurt Plateau Everything about this magical landscape

GASTRONOMY: Gastronomy of Karakalpakstan Features of Karakalpak cuisine

Photographer: Almaz Aleyev Designer: Azucar Moreno Venue: Barsakelmes, Karakalpakstan

COVER

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Your Personal Travel Magazine

Karakalpakstan

INFO

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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE AND DURING YOUR VISIT TO UZBEKISTAN

- COMMON QUESTIONS Do I need to have a PCR test and/or have been vaccinated for COVID-19 before travelling to Uzbekistan? Yes, you are required to have a negative PCR test, issued not more than 72 hours before arrival. However, it is not obligatory to be vaccinated against COVID-19.

Do I have to take an express-test at the airport before entering the country?

Do I need to wear a mask? Yes, it is compulsory to wear a mask everywhere in public in Uzbekistan, but masks may be removed while dining or drinking.

What do I need to know about taking public transport? Are there any new requirements or changes to schedules and ticketing? Passengers should wear masks while in the transport. Train and flight schedules are not fully back to normal yet.

No, foreign visitors can enter the country without taking an express test at the airport as long as they have a negative PCR test which meets international quality standards.

More info about flights: uzairways.uz More info about trains: railways.uz

How are people from “yellow” and “red” zone countries admitted?

What happens if I get sick while I am in Uzbekistan?

Independent travellers arriving from yellow and red zone countries fill out a questionnair and are expected to self-isolate at home or in a hotel for 14 days. However, those on an organised tour are exempt from quarantine and can begin their trip straight away.

If a visitor feels unwell and suspects it may be COVID-19, they must get a PCR test and seek medical attention. Tour guides and hotel staff will provide assistance with this. Treatment may be provided in a hospital, or in another location, as per individual circumstances.

Can I visit entertainment complexes and visitor attractions during my trip? Yes, all entertainment venues - including theatres - and tourist attractions in Uzbekistan are open. They must meet strict sanitary standards, including temperature checks and mask wearing for employees.

Are cafes and restaurants open? Yes, they are. Yes they are, and the previously restrictions on working hours have been eased.

If a foreign tourist does become infected with COVID-19 whilst in Uzbekistan, they will receive compensation of up to $3,000 towards their treatment cost. This is provided under the Uzbekistan: Safe Travel Guaranteed scheme, which covers all travellers on organised tours. The Ministry of Tourism and Sports’ official website has detailed information on COVID-19 for visitors: https://uzbekistan.travel/en/o/COVID-19-in-uzbekistan/ or contact the dedicated call centre on 1173. Information is relevant by the day of publishing and may be changed in accordance with decisions published by the special commission.

INFOGRAPHIC

FACTS ABOUT REPUBLIC OF KARAKALPAKSTAN Karakalpakstan is a sovereign republic within Uzbekistan It has its own state symbols, including a ﬂag and emblem

Map of Karakalpakstan Karakalpakstan has its own constitution and parliament It is the biggest region in Uzbekistan and occupies 40% of the total land area Population: 1.8 mln Area: 166,6 sq km2 80% of Karakalpakstan is a desert Capital: Nukus

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Photo: Yelena Yunes

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Largest cities: Nukus, Khojeili, Turtkul, Beruni, Chimbay, Takhiatash Languages: Karakalpak, Uzbek, Russian, Kazakh, English Currency: Uzbek sum Karakalpak means black hat because of the hats local people used to wear, which were made from black sheep’s wool The first settlements in the region are from the Neolithic era and date back to 6,000 years BC From the 6th century BC until the 20th century, century, the ancient state of Khorezm was located on the territory of Karakalpakstan There are more than 300 archaeological sites Karakalpakstan has many outstanding ancient monumbers, including the Desert Fortresses of Khorezm, which are included in the UNESCO Tentative List for World Heritage Site status. Ancient Khorezmians followed Zoroastrianism and had their own language The country is rich in natural resources, such as oil, gas, gold, metals, minerals, etc. Main industries: agriculture, electricity generation, chemical and petrochemical GRP (Gross Regional Product): 1,99 million USD (2020)

FOR INVESTORS: USEFUL INFO Foreign companies that conduct oil and gas exploration in Karakalpakstan are exempt from all taxes and state contributions for the period of exploration;

Small industrial zones are being created for developing the import and export opportunities in the region.

Businesses resident in the Nukus-Pharm Free Economic Zone, created to develop the pharmaceutical sector, are exempt from paying taxes.

In 2017, the total amount of investments in the Republic of Karakalpakstan came to 210,350 USD.

JOURNEY

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7 WONDERS OF KARAKALPAKSTAN Text: Fatima Arifdjanova

What to see in Karakalpakstan? Perhaps everyone who has been to this remote part of Uzbekistan will answer this question in their own way and be right. I would like to share my experience and talk about those places which I consider to be the most interesting and worth visiting.

1. THE STATE MUSEUM OF ART NAMED AFTER SAVITSKY I.V. IN NUKUS The Savitsky Museum is one of the largest museums in Uzbekistan. Its Russian avant-garde collection is recognised as the second largest in the world in terms of its volume and significance. Only the Russian Museum in St. Petersburg has more. The formation of the collection began before the foundation of the museum. After moving from Moscow to Nukus in 1957, Savitsky actively participated in archaeological research and formed an archaeological team, the purpose of which was to collect art objects of ancient Khorezm. At the same time, Savitsky was fond of collecting avant-garde works prohibited in the USSR. He managed to accumulate a large number of artworks, which became the basis for the creation of the museum. For several years, Savitsky formed one of the most comprehensive collections of fine art of the Russian and Turkestan avant- garde,

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over several decades, Savitsky established a comprehensive collection of Russian and Central Asian avant-garde art, and a notable collection of the decorative and applied arts of Karakalpakstan, as well as unique archeological finds from Ancient Khorezm. In Soviet times, it was unacceptable for a museum to hold such a collection of avant-garde works. It was due to the remoteness of Nukus that Savitsky’s activities went unobserved and unrestricted. Today, the Savitsky Museum is often called the Louvre of the Steppe with its exhibits being displayed at various venues in Uzbekistan and beyond, and the museum itself is visited by more than 70,000 tourists annually.

2. SHIP GRAVEYARD IN MOYNAQ When you first arrive in this place, it hardly seems real. Why are these ships here when they are dozens of kilometres away from the nearest water? What unknown force left them to die among the hot desert sands of Karakalpakstan? 70 years ago, Moynaq was a quite prosperous city on the shores of the Aral Sea, which supplied the whole Soviet Union with canned fish. Fish were caught in the Aral Sea, where the fleet included 158 ships, which employed 2,200 fishermen in 1965. The trouble came in 1950, the proposal to build the Karakum Canal was announced, which took almost 50% of the Amu Darya water that fed the sea.

You can get to Moynaq by bus or taxi from Nukus, though the bus runs there only twice a day, so a taxi will be more reliable, even though it is more expensive. If you wish, you can stay in Moynaq for the night in a hotel, and then hire a jeep (or rather two, no one drives there by themselves) and drive 100 km to the present shore of the Aral Sea.

Nature took revenge so such an affront, and the Aral Sea - which had been one of the four largest lakes in the world - began to dry up rapidly. Where once fish swam, desert sands now spread. The Aral Sea steadily became the Aralkum, the Aral Desert. The fish factory closed, but the city survived, adjusting itself to life among the sands. It is not for nothing that Moynaq translates as “tenacious”.

3. TOPE AUL If you are interested in ethnography, want to take part in a master class on weaving traditional Karakalpak mats, or are interested in learning how to cook Karakalpak cuisine, then you need to visit the small village of Tope Aul in Chimbay district. Here lived Zhizimgul-opa, one of the oldest keepers of Karakalpakstan’s mat weaving craft. Under her guidance, you can also try your hand at this seemingly simple craft. You can not only taste, but also learn how to cook, traditional Karakalpak dishes, such as jueri gurtik. Your adventure will be accompanied by beautiful Karakalpak songs, and if you are lucky you will see one of the most popular horse games in Asia - kopkar.

JOURNEY

4. MIZDAKHAN Mizdakhan is a necropolis with more than two thousand years of history which grew up near a Zoroastrian place of worship. The most famous and visited place in Mizdakhan is the mausoleum of Erzhep Khalifa. The mausoleum which dates from the dawn of Islam’s spread across Central Asia, is the most mysterious place of Mizdakhan, and shrouded in legends. Pilgrims believe that Adam’s grave is located here, and the mausoleum itself is a world clock counting down life on Earth. The mausoleum was built in the 9th century and every year one brick falls from it. As soon as the last stone has fallen to the earth, the end of the world will come. Those who come here seek to prolong worldly life by making pyramids out of fallen bricks. According to tradition, the pyramid should have seven stones, which is the same as the number of companions of the prophet buried here, and the number of domes above the shrine of Shamun. Having made a pyramid, you can make a wish and believe that it will come true. It should go without saying that you can’t break other people’s pyramids to build your own, or take stones as a keepsake. In general, a lot of legends and beliefs are associated with the number seven in Mizdakhan. According to one of them, it is believed that if on Thursday you come to Jumard Hill, next to the tomb of Shamun, and roll off it, having trolled head over heels seven times, you can get rid of infertility.

5. SUDOCHYE LAKE Sudochye Lake is one of the richest and most biodiverse places for avifauna in Uzbekistan. Here you can see flamingos, pink and curly pelicans, cormorants, herons, golden eagles and more than 200 other species of birds. To protect this wildlife,, in 1991 the Sudochye State Ornithological Reserve was created here, and in 2008 Lake Sudochye received the status of Important Bird Area (IBA). Once, Sudochye Lake was a large, albeit shallow, water basin. There were fish factories on its shore, and up to 2,000 tons of fish were caught here each year. After the water level in the Aral Sea began to fall, Sudochye began to dry up, too, as most of the water in the rivers which flowed into it was taken for irrigation. So, by the end of the 60s, this once large lake had broken into several small reservoirs: Akushpa, Bolshoi Sudochye, Karatereny and Begdulla Aydin. Now Sudochye is one of the favourite places for nature photographers and birdwatchers.

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6. USTYURT PLATEAU

One of the most beautiful and unusual natural places in Karakalpakstan is the Ustyurt Plateau. An area of 200,000 sq km, it is divided between Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. Sometimes Ustyurt is referred to as an island and this is not surprising. If you look at the plateau from a bird’s eye view, you can see huge stone walls, cliffs, up to 300m high, towering above the sandy desert. These walls are so steep that you can climb a plateau in only a few places. The colour scheme of this stone is striking; it shifts with gradients from white to pink, from pink to red, to yellow and even blue.

JOURNEY

However, despite its inaccessibility, the Ustyurt Plateau was not a place devoid of people. More than 60 Neolithic sites have been discovered on the plateau, and traces of the presence of Scythians and Mongols were preserved. The Great Silk Road passed through Ustyurt as well. Unfortunately, time does not spare evidence of the past, and only a few dilapidated ancient monuments have survived to this day. The best time to visit the Ustyurt Plateau is in April-May or early autumn. Summer is hot and long. The average July temperature is 26-28°C, and in some years the temperature reaches 40-60°C.

JOURNEY

7. BARSAKELMES The name Barsakelmes translates as “You will go but not return”. Barsakelmes is a Salt Lake located on the site of the former Tatis Sea, which disappeared many millions of years ago. It covered exactly the same territory that is now occupied by such deserts as Karakum and Kyzylkum. Calling Barsakelmes a lake is not entirely correct, since there is no water here and only in the spring does a small layer of brine - saturated saline solution - appear on it. In fact, Barsakelmes is a basin at the foot of the Ustyurt Plateau, filled with a huge reserve of salt formed in the days of the ancient sea. It’s not safe to go far out into the lake; you should always remember the meaning of its name. The reason is that under a thin salt crust there may be dips of unknown depth or wet sludge. It’s best to come here closer to sunset and enjoy the view from the plateau as the setting sun disappears in white silence.

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CAPITAL

NUKUS CITY Text: Irina Perova The capital of Karakalpakstan, the city of Nukus, is rarely the man reason for visiting the country. However, considering that travelling through Karakalpakstan usually starts in Nukus, as the main airport is located here, we decided to tell you more about this city so it is not just a stopover spot of your trip. A relatively young city, Nukus is full of signts, amazing architecture, and an exciting art scene. We will tell you where to go to get inspired, what to eat, and what gifts to buy for friends and family.

— WHERE THE ADVENTURE BEGINS

Nukus is the capital of Karakalpakstan, located on the right bank of the Amu Darya River, and one of the most north-westerly cities of Uzbekistan. It became the capital in 1932, so it is relatively young, but with longstanding roots. The city was erected on the site of the ancient settlement of Shurcha, the history of which dates back to the 4th century BC. According to archaeologists, this settlement was used as a defensive structure built to protect the border of the Khorezm state and the waterway. Today, Nukus is in the centre of the modern Republic of Karakalpakstan. It is 1,255 km away from Tashkent. The southern and eastern parts of the city are surrounded by the Kyzyl Kum desert, and the northern part of the city borders on the Amu Darya delta. Summers are hot and dry, and winters are very cold.

— WHERE TO GO First of all, upon arrival in Nukus, make a plan for a dawn or sunset walk along the Kyzketken Canal. The canal, which celebrated its centenary in 2019, takes its water from the Amu Darya River and stretches through the city centre. In the meantime, discover Nukus’ interesting architectural mix with modern buildings, Soviet era structures and ancient monuments. For art lovers, there are incredible museums here, and for seekers of ancient history, a couple of exciting spots in close proximity to the capital.

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— MUSEUMS

— WHAT TO BUY

• State Museum of Arts named after I. V. Savitsky The must-visit museum is the State Museum of Arts, better known as the Savitsky Museum. However, we also recommend checking out other museums in the city which impress visitors with their unique collections and exhibits.

Applied art has been developing in Karakalpakstan for many centuries. Here craftsmen create handicrafts from wood, leather and various other materials. The region is also famous for its traditional ornaments that are applied to clothing, carpets and fabrics. The Karakalpak headdress, Shogirme, is the first must-have souvenir. Also, do not pass by traditional musical instruments: dutar, girzhek, kamys-nai (flute), and the duduk (reed pipe). Local shepherds play a hand-made flute called a balaman, which is also worth a look.

• Regional Museum of Karakalpakstan The Museum of Local Lore of Karakalpakstan in Nukus is one of the oldest museums in Central Asia. The history of the museum is about 80 years old. It consists of 21 halls and includes more than 56,000 exhibits. The natural history halls give an idea of the flora and fauna of the republic. The archaeology hall contains models of ancient settlements and objects found during excavations. • Museum named after Berdakh Museum In 1998, to mark the 170th anniversary of the great Karakalpak poet-thinker Berdakh, a museum was created in his honour. The building, which has one large and six small domes, is a treasury of the cultural heritage of the Karakalpak people. Here you will observe the entire historical path walked by the population from ancient times to the present day.

— WHAT TO EAT

Traditional Karakalpak cuisine does have something in common with the gastronomy of other Central Asian countries. The main dishes are plov, manti, samsa and fish. Here, fish is is prepared according to special recipes, so this is the first must-try when in Nukus. Residents cook dishes not only from beef and lamb, but also from horse meat and camel meat. Here they use potatoes, rice, beans, and other vegetables as side dishes.

— MONUMENTS • Chilpyk Kala The Chilpyk monument was erected in the 2nd-4th centuries as a Zoroastrian dakhma (funerary tower). Later in the 9th-11th centuries, the locals used it as a signal tower. You can find the Chilpyk monument on the top of a conical hill, located 43km south of Nukus. • Tok-Kala (Darsan) Tok-Kala, an ancient settlement covering 8 hectares is located 14km west of Nukus, on a small natural hill. The monument consists of three parts - one each from the antique and medieval periods, plus a burial ground. Also recommended for visitors are the city park named after Amir Timur, Doslyk Avenue, and Nukus’ main city square.

INTERVIEW

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SONOROUS TALENT OF KARAKALPAKSTAN INTERVIEW WITH JENISBEK PIYAZOV Text: Guzal Kambarova

How did you get into the world of opera? What was the reason for choosing this particular genre of singing? - As a child, I never thought I would work in the opera industry. Born into a family of artists and raised in that environment, music and singing were always a part of my life, and from 2nd grade, I started singing modern pop songs. As I became older, my voice began changing, and it became difficult to sing even a simple song. Top, high notes were challenging to hit, and my voice became lower. When I entered high school, I went to my vocal teacher, Abad Khalikov, an artist from Karakalpakstan, for advice. Together we started adjusting my voice. It was a hard work as for three years I tuned my voice, sang operas and arias, won various competitions, and was then admitted to the State Conservatory of Uzbekistan without an exam. What is music to you? - My teachers used to say: “Don’t sing to please people, sing from the heart.” A real artist has to make others emotional

without crying themselves. That way, the pain that bothers the listener can go away on its own. Music is more than art, it is a therapy, and when it comes from the heart, it has healing properties. This issue is dedicated to the history, culture, and art of Karakalpakstan. What connections do you make between opera and the traditional songs and instrumental performances? - Traditional Karakalpak music is familiar to me and very dear to my heart, because my parents are representatives of this industry. They sing and play traditional instruments, such as dutar, dombra, gijjak, and gobyz. I also studied traditional music for four years and played the dutar. I am familiar with the art of bahshi (traditional folk singing) as the history and art of Karakalpak culture are concentrated in this traditional form of performance. Our folk songs are focused on topics such as heroism, patriotism and love, and in opera it is almost the same. Music is the universal language. What can you say about the art of

bahshi now? Is there any effort to pass it on to younger generations, or are young people not interested in this art form? - Although many think that bahshi is the echo of the past, this art is still developing. Today the representatives of bahshi are doing their best to preserve this style of singing. The good news is that there are young people who are really interested and are learning this art with love. They understand that it is a precious part of the intangible heritage of their land that must be preserved. A simple example is my brother Janibek Piyazov, a bahshi singer, who sings in the traditional jirau genre. As long as there are such devotees, I can say that folk singing is in safe hands. You were the first performer from Uzbekistan to sing at the Italian opera house La Scala. How did you overcome difficulties on the way to your dream, and what advice would you give to young musicians? - First of all, I worked tirelessly until I reached the goal of performing on

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the stage of the La Scala Opera House. Talent alone is not enough. It is said that behind success lies 1 percent talent and 99 percent hard work. Therefore, it is necessary to work hard and seek out opportunities in order to perfect your talent. Secondly, I was spiritually indebted to many good people when I went on this stage. They helped me along the way and were great supporters of my achievements. Third, is a culture of communication, and I try to establish a sincere relationship with people around me and my audience. Fourth, I always try to think ahead and come up with different plans and options if the main one doesn’t seem to work out. Fifth, my stubbornness and life experience do not allow me to get discouraged easily and I do not stop until I achieve what I set for myself. Sixth, being patient helps a lot in my life. Patience seems rare in today’s youth. They leave before the end of the concert. I always sit at concerts until the end to show my support and gratitude. Such a seemingly insignificant action lifts people’s spirits. Most importantly, obstacles can be overcome if the goal is clear. You have to be patient, not doubt yourself, and keep following your dream. What are your impressions performing at La Scala?

about

- I didn’t know Italian very well, but I could partially understand something. After all, we sing Italian songs. Once you get into the environment, you’re still learning the language in some way. Our teachers have good techniques, but to be honest, the academy didn’t even believe I was going to La Scala, because one can’t go below the age of 28. I said I had to stand my ground and go to La Scala. Once my performances were approved by the agents, we planned to take part in big concert programmes next year. Due to the pandemic, this year’s plans have been postponed to next year. You got a chance to sing in La Scala. Do you plan to perform opera on other big stages in Europe as well? For example, the French Grand Opéra, the Palais Garnier, or at the Royal Opera House in London? - Of course my plans are big. I want to

say something at this point. In Europe, or in other countries, opera singers are viewed primarily as independent artists. They work on a contract basis. Suppose the French Opéra Garnier enters into a contract with you for an opera, and so on. If you sign a contract with three or four countries, you will have secured two to three years of work. I also received offers from France, England and Austria. I could not go to auditions because I had an agreement with Italy and Oman. As you can see, all plans were cancelled due to the pandemic. Do you have an idol, that you dream of singing on the same stage with? - My favourite opera singers have passed away. In fact, I didn’t look at any artist as

a fan. Now, when it comes to singing a duet together, we sang on the same stage with a great tenor named Diego Flores from Peru. I took a master class from him. At our conservatory, students learn by listening to his songs. Now you, as a well-known opera artist, have begun to appear on the world stage. To get to that level, traditional music has motivated you as a starting point. Tell me, what do you think should be done to make Karakalpak traditional singing and melody world famous? For example, how to arouse the interest of a tourist visiting Uzbekistan in Karakalpak music? - I think it is necessary to adapt traditional musical instruments: dutar, gobyz, gijjak, etc. to orchestral instruments. For

INTERVIEW

instance, playing dutar to orchestral accompaniment will further enrich the music. National music can be brought to the world stage, and it can take deep root. Undoubtedly, such projects should be financially supported, because it’s not something which happens with just the will of one person. I believe that if people get acquainted with the sounds of traditional Karakalpak and Uzbek instruments on the world stage, eventually they will seek out more musical experiences when they visit the country. What do you think people look for in music now? - With the Internet and other technologies, our lives seem to have become easier, and life passes quickly. People are in a hurry, they are impatient. Like any other area of life, it has an impact on music. Opera performance used to last 4-5 hours, but now they are trying to reduce it to 2 hours. World classics are shrinking, because that is the demand of the time. Everything has to be fast. It’s like running in a closed circle. We should try to slow down the pace of life and truly enjoy the music as it is supposed to be enjoyed, without a rush. Do you have any advice for slowing down? - Time is actually something that doesn’t exist. We can speed it up or slow it down ourselves. My advice to those who are looking for a way to slow down the pace of life is to go to remote areas, for example Turtkul in Karakalpakstan, and live there for a week. Away from the hustle and bustle of the city, people do their daily work quietly, without rushing. If you want to know the value of time and really enjoy life, you need to disconnect from time to time and go to countryside to live a simpler life. Where else do you recommend tourists visit in Karakalpakstan? - In Karakalpakstan we have castles that have been preserved for centuries. For example, Toprak Kala, Akchahan Kala, Kizil Kala, and others, and they are worth visiting to get acquainted with the

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ancient history of the country. Everyone should visit the famous Savitsky Museum, known as the Louvre of the Steppe. I would also recommend visiting the old shore of the Aral Sea, or the graveyard of ships. Outdoor concert programmes are also available in the evening in different regions of the country, where bahshi singers perform traditional songs, and one doesn’t need to speak Karakalpak to understand their meaning. Berdakh National Drama Theatre in Nukus is also a great place to get familiarised with Karakalpak culture. What are your plans for the future? - As I said before, I have no intention of stopping anywhere. Once the pandemic is over and the borders are open, I intend to re-establish ties and continue my creativity on the European stage.

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EVENTS

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Text: Innessa Anokhina | Photo: Feruz Rustamov

A HUNDRED EXPERIENCES ON THE ARAL SEABED

Every year the small town of Moynaq in Karakalpakstan attracts thousands of people from all over the world to the STIHIA festival. The largest non-profit open-air electronic music festival in Central Asia, Stihia embraces an abstraction-fuelled line-up which transcends standard electronic music. Featuring luminaries such as Nina Kravitz, Jamaica Suk, Alien Rain’s, Fragment Project, and other wellknown DJs from Europe and CIS, the event brings unique emotional experiences to a very distant part of the world.

While being primarily a music event, the project quickly grew into a solid movement and expanded its boundaries beyond playing techno sounds at the edge of the dead sea. Started in 2017 as the enthusiastic project of Otabek Suleimanov, a DJ from Tashkent, in four years, Stihia became the main cultural and social event in Karakalpakstan. It is a lodestone for not only punters, but also activists caring about environmental issues. Today, Stihia is a combination of several projects which include a collaboration of musicians, artists, scientists, engineers, and entrepreneurs. They all unite to raise public awareness of the ecological disaster of the Aral Sea. In 2021, Stihia transformed from a music festival to an art and science festival and brought together more than 3,000 participants from 10 countries (Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Russia, Turkey, US, Latvia, France, Spain, India).

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MEMORABLE IDEAS TO DO AT STIHIA: — DISCUSS THE FUTURE OF THE ARAL SEA REGION

— PLANT A TREE ON THE SEABED

Besides two nights of techno raves, guests of the festival can involve themselves in a wide range of side activities. In the daytime, guests can participate in a discussion at environmental science forum Stihia N+1 about the upcoming future of the Aral Sea region and steps to improve the environment and livelihood of locals, as well as how human activity impacts our present and future.

The desertified part of the Aral Sea is approximately 40,000 sq km. Within the Six Billion Trees project, each guest of Stihia can contribute to the regeneration of the damaged ecosystem in the Aral Sea region. In 2021, guests together with the artists planted 5,000 trees in Muynaq and its surroundings.

— BUILD A YURT

— THE ARAL SEA Visiting Stihia is a great opportunity to come and see the sea itself, which is about two hours’ drive from the festival site.

— STARGAZING The Aral seabed has some of the lowest light pollution levels in the world, creating an indescribably majestic night sky. Do not forget your cameras and telescope!

— MAKE A PHOTOSHOOT IN A FUTURISTIC SETTING Desert, rusting ships, saksauls and camel’s-thorns, sand storms, and a bizarre landscape have the vibe of post-apocalyptic future from Mad Max scenes. Dress up as a desert wayfarer or space pirate, or paint yourself with fluorescent colours, and shoot this experience to share with your friends and close ones.

WHERE TO GET TICKETS: Stihia is a free non-profit festival. But to get an entrance bracelet, you need to sign up on the stihia. org website and get your QR-code. It is free and takes one minute.

ROAD TO STIHIA: Moynaq is a very distant place, 1,284 km from Tashkent. Getting there is quite a journey. From Tashkent it takes 1.5 hours by plane (or 20 hours by train) to reach Nukus, the capital of Karakalpakstan.

On the second day of the event, the local history museum conducted a workshop on assembling a yurt – a traditional dwelling of Karakalpak nomads. Guests could see the process of pitching nomadic tents and hear the story of how Turkic nomads transfer this knowledge through generations.

— STROLL AROUND THE SHIP GRAVEYARD Down from the main stage stands Moynaq’s ships’ graveyard. Once this was a thriving fishing port, where every day Moynaq’s fishermen would load their boats and sell the fish across Karakalpakstan and beyond. Now, it is a desert, the lonely boats are rusting through and remind us of the lively life which is lost. Walking alongside this memorial, you appreciate the extent of the Aral Sea tragedy.

Then you can take a 3-hour car or bus ride to arrive in Moynaq. Organisers offer shuttles from Nukus to the festival, but you need to reserve your seat.

WHERE TO STAY: For the festival, you have three types of accommodation available: rent a guesthouse, a B&B in Moynaq, or stay in a tent. The most authentic option for accommodation is to reserve a place in a yurt on the festival campsite to experience the lifestyle of oriental nomads.

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Text: Odina Ulugbekjanova | Photo: Marat Nadjibaev

U N TO U C H E D

B E AUTY

O F

KA R A KA L PA KSTA N

Nature conservation is a duty of each and every person, but in recent decades human intervention and advancement in living standards have led to the extinction of many species of flora and fauna. To combat this loss, many wildlife sanctuaries and national parks have been established, and Uzbekistan is no exception. Today, we will be heading to one of the most beautiful nature reserves of Uzbekistan, Badai- Tugai, which is located in Karakalpakstan close to the Amu Darya River.

Badai-Tugai Nature Reserve was founded in the 1970s with the aim of preserving the tugai (riparian) forests of the area, as well as protecting the habitat of the Bukhara deer. The riparian ecosystem of the reserve (which covers an area of 6,462 ha) accommodates more than 91 species of birds, 15 species of mammals and 15 species of fish, some of which are included in the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. We recommend taking a day trip there, departing from Khiva so you have plenty of time exploring reserve’s unique flora and fauna. Put your comfortable shoes on, bring sun block, mosquito repellent and some snacks, and embark on this unforgettable adventure.

Among other animals living here, you can spot jackals, and badgers dwelling in scrubby thickets, as well as reed cats and foxes. The insectivores are represented by long-eared hedgehogs and piebald sand shrews. Among the ungulates in the reserve there are wild boars boars, and the Bukhara deer are everywhere. Beside these, you can also see one of the strangest-looking animals, the saiga antelope which migrates here in late autumn.

From your very first step, you’ll be entranced by the wilderness, and overcome with a burning desire to see the deer with gorgeously patterned horns. If you’re lucky, extraordinary-looking antelope will frisk past you. Straight away you will admire the diversity of birds chirping in the woods, and be soothed by the sound of water flowing beside you. it is as if you have entered into a Disney cartoon about animals’ pastimes.

Badai-Tugai is a perfect place for lovers of birdwatching. The existence of water and a variety of nesting places attract an abundance of birds to the reserve. Among the migrant species there are grey flycatcher, redstart, and others. The goshawk, East Siberian sparrow hawk, swamp owl, black lark, and different species of thrush, which come here from northern regions to overwinter in the reserve.

In the reservoirs there are lake frogs, water snakes, arrow snakes, and the patterned whip snake. About 15 species of fish live in the waters of the Amu Darya.

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PROTECTION OF BUKHARA DEER The Bukhara deer is the smallest deer species native to the riparian forests. The rapid development of agriculture and cutting down the forests have led to a reduction in the number of deer, which were at one time under threat of extinction. However, in 1981-82, 24 deer were relocated into the Badai- Tugai Reserve, and their number has risen to 582 deer, which is 1/3 of the world’s population of this deer. To this day, the reserve is working hard on the protection of these species and cares for the biggest population of Bukhara deer in Central Asia. Uzbekistan’s landscape is a wonderful blend of mountains, steppes and deserts, and home to an outstanding contrast of wildlife. Rich flora and fauna, some species of which are unique to the area, are worth seeing for those who carry the sense of adventure in their hearts. Badai-Tugai is a special place on a map of unforgettable experiences of Uzbekistan, and we believe that no sooner than leaving such an atmosphere, will you look forward to coming back again to feel the extraordinary energy of Badai-Tugai.

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Celebrate the most significant milestone in life and make your dream wedding come true at Hilton Tashkent City. A wedding often combines both excitement and anticipation. One of the top goals and priorities for the couple is to host a flawless reception filled with joy and dear memories for years ahead. Selecting the perfect venue is key to success. Hilton Tashkent City, the most luxurious and reputable hotel, located in the heart of Tashkent, offers its precious gem, the Ballroom. The modern, yet exquisite interior of the spacious banquet hall, the size of which is 728 sq m, and the attached terrace zone is a unique space for a wedding. Additionally, the Ballroom can be conveniently divided into three independent halls; hence, the flexibility of the space caters to a celebration of any size or grandeur. Moreover, the adjacent foyer could be utilised for guests to lounge and enjoy refreshments during pre-reception. The wedding packages offered at Hilton Tashkent City have been developed to accommodate all the requests of the bride and groom. The offers include full guidance of an event specialist, divine dishes from the hotel’s top chefs, and outstanding service quality. Planning a dream wedding at Hilton Tashkent City comes with numerous privileges. The engaged couple will be allowed to access exclusive areas for a photoshoot. Furthermore, food tasting and selection of either buffet or plated service is offered alongside room deals.

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INTEGRAL PARTS OF KARAKALPAK CULTURE

WHERE EVERYTHING TELLS A STORY

Text: Alya Appasionata Photo: Yelena Yunes

Anyone who has ever visited Karakalpakstan will forever remember the special steppe romance of this ancient land scorched by the sun. History, people, their traditions and customs, decorations, music, national cuisine and, of course, costumes are distinctive landmarks of this magnificent country. In this article we will dive into some interesting aspects of Karakalpak culture which embody the rich history of this land.

NATIONAL CLOTHING National costume is like a chronicle that encompasses and explains the life and history of the people. If you look closely at the costume and pay attention to its details, you can get a picture of the religious and economic development of people. Outfits rich in embroidery, like an open book, can tell the history of the family, and describe their occupations and preferences. The costumes of Karakalpakstan are very interesting in this regard. Beautiful embroidered jengse oversleeves are a very interesting element of Karakalpak clothing. Jengse used to be sewed from red fabric and then decorated with embroidery. Following the shape of the sleeve, the jengse slightly tapers at the wrist.

The original style of Karakalpak clothing includes the kimeshek, a complex headdress. At the front of it is a red cloth triangle with a hole for the face. At the back is the tsuyrytssha (tail), a cape made from Bukharan silk, trimmed with embroidered cloth and a fringe. Another interesting piece is a headdress for Karakalpak women called a seukele. It does not look like the saukele of Kazakh women, but just like the latter, it was an accessory of brides and young women. The term “seukele” is found in the Karakalpak epic Kyrk Kyz, the plot of which describes the exploits of 40 Amazon girls. It contains a description of the assembly of these girls for the battle, led by their leader Sarbinaz. Before rushing into battle, while jumping on her horse, Sarbinaz puts on a seukele.

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JEWELLERY Silver jewellery is an essential part of a Karakalpak women’s folk costume. The main items which were part of the dowry were: a massive breast ornament with oval and colourful stones and pendants in the shape of rhombuses and bells (haykel); heavy cast bracelets (bilezik); rings (zhuzik); earrings (syrga). “When you look at the jewellery, you only see stones, gold, cut and polish. The jeweller sees the whole story,” wrote Giovanni Lorenzo Bernini. It is important that this story is not only saved but also recreated. The Karakalpak master Adil Tajimuratov makes replicas of ancient jewellery, as well as creating his own jewellery, while preserving the old traditions of his people. Tajimuratov’s workshop is located in the house of his father, Daribay Tajimuratov, a famous Karakalpak artist and sculptor. Clay, wood, paints: everything influences his work, and so his workshop is a kind of small museum, which contains paintings, drawings and sculptures made of wood and clay. In the courtyard there is a furnace, and we happened to see the laying of goods and the kindling of the furnace. Each master has his own special ritual.

MUSIC Music is an integral part of Karakalpak culture. By the Accompanied by ancient musical instruments, people led a nomad’s life in the vast steppe looking for the Land of Happiness... The kobyz is an old musical instrument which, according to legend, was created by the great shaman and storyteller of the steppes steppe, Korkyt Ata. In ancient times was used for religious rites. Very beautiful songs from these heroic epics are still performed with this instrument. It is also an accompaniment to the traditional throat singing performed by special zhirau singers.

Another musical instrument, dutar, appeared among shepherds in approximately the 15th century. At the beginning, dutar strings were made from the guts of animals. Later, due to the development of trade along the Silk Road, they began to make strings from twisted silk. Silk is used in modern strings as well. Those are just some aspects of the unique culture of Karakalpakstan. We hope they will inspire to learn more about them and immerse yourself into the story of this nation.

HERITAGE

FOREVER FROZEN ROYAL PALACES Text: Alena Gorbacheva | Photo: Feruz Rustamov, Alo Surataliev

All that you need to take today on a «virtual» journey through the Land of a Thousand Fortresses is empty luggage. Because from your adventure trip you will return with a full one. It will contain fragments of grey history and centuries-old legends about fearless heroes, a map with dotted lines along the silent ruins and, of course, an irresistible desire to see the fortresses of the Kala clan with our own eyes.

We press the “start” button and go to one of the most ancient historical and cultural points of Central Asia - Ancient Khorezm. Amongst its endless waterless steppes, majestic ruins, which were once ancient settlements, powerful defensive fortresses, and royal palaces, have forever frozen. The civilisation of Ancient Khorezm arose in the lower reaches of the Amu Darya, on the border with the Kyzylkum desert in the middle of the 2nd millennium BC. This is now the territory of Karakalpakstan. This area is rightfully considered to be the cradle of the unique culture of the Khorezmians and one of the oldest world religions Zoroastrianism. It was here that their sacred book, the Avesta, was written. Here, scouts from Ahnenerbe looked for the mythical city of Asgard. And under the hot sands of the Kyzylkum, scientists and archeologists discovered irrigation canals and fortress walls, of which there are more than a thousand. Today in this sandy world, the Ayaz-Kala, Toprak-Kala, Kyzyl-Kala, Kyrk-Kyz-Kala, Chilpyk-Kala Khodjeylinskaya and other architectural monuments of Ancient Khorezm live their own separate lives.

FORTRESS IN THE WIND AYAZ-KALA The ancient settlement Ayaz-Kala dates back to the 4th century BC. Its main fortress, Ayaz-Kala, is located in the Ellik Kala region of Karakalpakstan, 20km northeast of the ancient capital of Khorezm, Toprak-Kala, among the moving Kyzylkum sands and spurs of the Sultan Uvais mountains. It rises on the flat top of a 60m hill. Ayaz-Kala is famous for being an impenetrable fortress because of the difficulties associated with getting into it. The entrance to the fortress from the south is protected by an intricate labyrinth. The entrance also has its own peculiarity - it was built with the expectation that

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the southern wind ruling in these parts would take out waste and dust from the settlement. Hence the name Ayaz-Kala, “Fortress of the Wind”. Double walls were erected from large, unbaked bricks, each of which is decorated with a tamga motif. What this means still remains a mystery. From the top of the Ayaz-Kala you can see Lake Ayazkol. The water in it is so salty that even in summer it looks like the lake is under a layer of ice.

HERITAGE

In these places, there is a legend about the ruler of the Ayaz- Kala, who was chosen from among the common people with the help of a royal falcon. Whoever’s hand the falcon landed on would become the shah (ruler). The falcon was released and chose an ordinary warrior and landed on his head. The priests, who did not want to recognise his candidacy, drove away the feathered one, but the bird, circling in the sky, again sat on the warrior’s head. The people were forced to approve it. To make everyone remember the origin of the newly elected ruler, the warrior ordered an old, worn-out shoe be hung in a conspicuous place. He ruled very humanely and for a long time.

HERITAGE

EARTHEN OR DUSTY FORTRESS TOPRAK-KALA The settlement of Toprak-Kala is located in the Ellik-Kala region of Karakalpakstan, on a plain which is enclosed by the Sultanuizdag Mountains. Toprak-Kala, which was nicknamed “Earth Fortress” or “Dust Fortress” is among the most outstanding architectural monuments of Khorezm from the 1st-4th centuries AD. Toprak-Kala is one of the most ancient cultural sites in Central Asia and occupies a prominent place among on the UNESCO Tentative List for World Heritage Sites. The settlement belongs to the late antique period of Khorezm, and demonstrates the charactertistic contradition of both developed urban life and evidence of strong tribal traditions. Several halls were found on the territory of Toprak-Kala in one of the ruler’s palaces. Among them is the Hall of the Kings, - a sanctuary with 23 massive clay figures. The origins and purpose of the Hall of Dark-Skinned Warriors remains uncertain, as the ancient Khorezmians were light-eyed and fair-haired, albeit with rather dark skin. In the 5th century, after the decline of the city, Toprak-Kala transformed into a huge necropolis with many ossuary burials.

RED FORTRESS KYZYL-KALA Kyzyl-Kala is a unique architectural monument from Ancient Khorezm, dating from the Kushan-Afrigid period. It stands in the middle of the plain, and was intended to strengthen and provide added protection for the Toprak-Kala. This explains the close proximity of these two fortresses and the similarities in their architectural identity. It was part of a wider system of fortifications belonging to the Khorezmshah state. The fortress, which has double walls and distinctive corner towers, is square in shape and not large. In its centre was a temple of fire, revered in Zoroastrianism. According to one of folk legend, Toprak-Kala and Kyzyl-Kala were connected by a multi-kilometre underground passage. Supposedly, it is inhabited by evil desert spirits and the wandering souls of ancestors, which are surrounded by the countless hidden treasures. But no one knows where the entrance to this tunnel is. Kyzyl-Kala existed until the invasion of Genghis Khan.

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TOWER OF SILENCE CHILPYK-KALA This building is located 45km east of the modern city of Nukus and dates back approximately to the 1st century BC. Chilpyk-Kala is a typical Zoroastrian funerary structure, measuring 15m tall and 65m in diameter. It amazes people with its size, and it is a reminder of the heyday of Zoroastrian culture in Ancient Khorezm. Here, the body of the deceased was left to scavengers and the rays of the sun until the bones were completely cleared of soft tissue. This practice of burial was briefly mentioned by Herodotus in the 5th century BC. The peculiarity of Chilpyk is the relatively small number of ossuaries discovered here. Because of this, the first archeologists studying the site hypothesised that it was a royal burial structure, where the priestss would have laid out the bodies of members of the ruling dynasty to be eaten by vultures. According to local legends collected by ethnographers, Chilpyk was once a fortified castle. The princess who lived here had fallen in love with a slave, and fled to Chilpyk to escape the wrath of her father.

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Sustainable Fashion Azucar Moreno

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Kamola Rustamova, better known as Azucar Moreno, is one of the most talented designers of modern Uzbekistan. She is the winner of the “Best Young Designer of Andalusia” award, has participated in international exhibitions and competitions, and organised shows including Koshechki, Kesha, Tashkent Lights, Seville Flowers, 1,001 Nights, and others. Not only does Kamola create beautiful clothes, but she also cares deeply about their environmental impact and wearability. Together with the organisers of the Aral Rally, the Azucar Moreno team arranged a photoshoot in the most scenic places in Karakalpakstan. Text: Sabina Odinayeva | Photo: Almaz Aleyev

Barsakelmes - a place where time stops, history is frozen in the sands, and swallows nest among the ruins - is located near the Aral Sea. Getting to Barsakelmes Island, the caravan drove through the very depths of the Aral Sea. In some places, it seemed that all these events took place on Mars, and the island itself resembled the surface of the Moon. Because of the strong gale winds, the models could hardly stand on their feet, their long and heavy dresses became like parachutes, and the photographer could barely hold his camera. Work on this collection began last year before the pandemic, and it was being prepared for Paris. Unfortunately, the event was postponed, and the collection remained unpresented to the world. During the pandemic, Azucar Moreno, together with Visit Uzbekistan magazine, began to create illustrations of fashionable travellers of Uzbekistan. They were supposed to be voluminous long dresses. However, after the announcement of the quarantine, it was decided to combine the pyjama style, ethnic Uzbek motifs, the spirit of tradition, and modern realities.

This was the image that became the most relevant after the empty cities began to revive again. But it was hard to part with comfortable home clothes. The peculiarity of this collection is that it is sustainable. After all, today, it is vital for the environment. Through her collection, Kamola Rustamova wanted to show the idea of how important it is today to preserve the environment. It represents awareness and care, not only about yourself but also about other people and the environment. Using vintage fabrics and breathing a second life into them, the collection is already sustainable. No industrial textile, transformed with chemical dye, was used in its creation. As the sewing collection is not mass-produced but more of a slow fashion method, it becomes even more sustainable. ‘I don’t create a trend or fashion. I create clothes that carry meaning and history. These clothes, like real jewels, will be passed on to the next generation. Most importantly, these clothes are not harmful to the environment. That is how fashion can exist in harmony with ecology. Of course, achieving full sustainability is not easy. But striving for it is already sustainability.’ Azucar Moreno.

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Text: Sabina Odinayeva | Photo: Umid Yakubov, Isroilov Ismoil The history of Uzbek art is rooted in past centuries. Love for beauty and morality has been promoted since the existence of khanates. Examples can be found in our historic towns, where every step is a discovery in art. Many techniques are lost, hidden under the depths of earth and soil. But some artisans have continued carrying their skills through the years and passed them on to future generations. The Visit Uzbekistan team visited the workshop of just such a person. Anvar Isroilov is a man who has given his whole life to the art of patterns.

Anvar Isroilov is a miniaturist and ornamentalist, a member of the Union of Artists of Uzbekistan, a participant in domestic and foreign exhibitions and festivals, a master, and simply a man who loves what he does. Isroilov first became acquainted with the art of patterns at the Pioneer House. At that time, he was still in the 5th grade, but seeing the work process of his first teacher, Rikhsivoi Rasulov, awakened in him a great desire to learn the craft. As a young man, he gradually started studying the national ornamental art of Uzbekistan. On the advice of his master in 1981, he entered Binkov Republican Art School. Fortunately, under An Vladimir Sergeevich’s leadership the Faculty of Miniatures opened for the first time that year. At that time, the art of miniature painting was considered to be a lost art form, and there was a great process of recovery of forgotten techniques. Upon completion of the first year, talented students were sent to the village of Palekh, the ancient centre of the Russian folk craft of lacquer miniatures and icon painting. Here Isroilov learned to work on papier-mâché (pulped paper) and to use gold leaf in his work. A few years later, he returned to the village with his works, which were highly regarded by Russian art critics.

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Upon graduation, Anvar began working on a programme to restore lost arts at Abul Kasim Madrasah. That included techniques for working on miniatures and the art of ornamentation, wood carving, and others. Together with his colleagues, the master consolidates every detail, repeats patterns, and thus gives forgotten techniques a chance to come alive. “The main rule in my work is to follow my style and the techniques of the artwork. The legacy I have received from my teachers I have to pass on to my students the same way. In my work, I follow the style and certain norms that have been handed down over the years.”

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craftsmen town called Suzuk Ota in the old part of Tashkent. It is very enjoyable for visitors to watch and learn about the creative process, and to buy some of the artworks as souvenirs. Here you can purchase khan knives, patterned plates, caskets made in the national style, papier-mâché paintings, and much more. Isroilov’s works are filled with history. A lot of effort, patience, labour, and love is put into them. Each pattern conveys a certain thought, feeling and emotion. Everyone understands and sees these patterns differently. Тhis is the whole meaning.

In his work, Isroilov uses techniques from different schools. But most of all, he has worked on restoring the Khorezm technique of miniature painting. There are only two people in Uzbekistan who create miniatures in this style – Isroilov’s and his Khorezmian apprentice. In the Isroilov’s family, everyone is in touch with art in one way or another. His three daughters and son also know how to make patterns. His son Asror Isroilov has followed in his father’s footsteps and has become an ornamentalist-ceramist. His daughters are also educated as designers. You can find many objects for inspiration in the Isroilovs family home, including wall decorations, tableware for everyday use, and other interior items. Everyone can visit the workshop of Isroilov. It is located in the Address: 40, Suzuk Ota Mosque, Tashkent | Tel.: +998 (97) 425 56 95; +998 (90) 185 56 95 | Instagram: @anvar_miniaturist

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WHAT IT WAS LIKE TO SWIM IN THE ARAL SEA Text and Photo: Yulya Darkova

Can one go to Uzbekistan to dive into the disappearing sea?! Yes, that is possible, and I did it. True, my feelings were very mixed. On the one hand, it’s great to swim in the warm sea water, because for the last three summers I have plowed only the northern seas with an unbearable temperature. On the other hand, every step along the muddy bottom and every splash of bitter-salty water informed me that something was amiss with this sea. Of course, I knew that the Aral was drying up, but I did not expect that there were such consequences around it. Even when I heard that someone had seen the Aral Sea alive, for me these were just words. And here we are. For almost the whole day we travelled along the exposed seabed to find water. We imagined how there was water here 30 years ago, because now it is only sand, shells and colourful bushes. Some areas have no signs of life at all – only cracked earth. We wanted to swim at night, admiring the moon and indulging in the mystery of this place. However, people accompanying us found arguments against it and we went to sleep in the yurts. We got to the sea only at dawn. Imagine our surprise when in the morning it was impossible to enter the sea. Due to the sapropel (fine sediment), it was very slippery and soft, and as soon as I put my foot in, the sea pulled it inward. I managed to walk about 50m knee-deep in the water and then decided to dive with my head and this was a mistake. The salt concentration is so high that the water does not just pinch, but burns the eyes so much. In this case, there is nothing to rinse them with, as you understand. You can swim in such water only on your back. After swimming, be prepared that upon exiting the water your legs will be covered in the same slimy sediment. In general, on this trip I saw what happens as a result of the thoughtless actions of people. Although, swimming in the remains of the sea and seeing even a little bit of life, gave me hope that maybe someday the Aral Sea will be revived and alive again.

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GRAVEYARD OF SHIPS Text: Valeriya Galikhanova | Photo: Feruz Rustamov

A PLACE WHERE TIME STANDS STILL

The abandoned port city Moynaq, a small town in Karakalpakstan, is located on the former shore of the shrinking Aral Sea and annually attracts lovers of extreme tourism. It is definitely worth going there to see one of the most amazing and tragic places on our planet, and to take a fresh look at your own life through the prism of disaster.

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Text: Alya Apassionata | Photo: Yelena Yunes

There are places on Earth which are just different. There is something unfathomable and mystical about them, something that can only be felt but never truly explained. One of those places is the Ustyurt Plateau lying between the Aral Sea and the Amu Darya river. Let’s try and get a glimpse of this magical piece of land.

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“The sky, the earth and the sea still wore the glassy paleness of ghostly twilight; a dying star still floated in the void. But a murmur came, a winged message from dwelling places no mortal may approach, that Eos was rising from her husband’s side; and now it appeared, that first sweet blush at the farthest horizon of the sky and sea, which heralds the sensuous disclosure of creation. The goddess approached, the ravisher of youth, who carried off Cleitus and Cephalus and defied the envy of all the Olympians to enjoy the love of the beautiful Orion. A scattering of roses began, there at the edge of the world, an ineffably lovely shining and blossoming: childlike clouds, transfigured and transparent with light, hovered like serving amoretti in the vermilion and violet haze; crimson light fell across the waves, which seemed to be washing it landward; golden appears darted from below into the heights of heaven, the gleam became a conflagration, noiselessly and with overwhelming divine power the glow and the fire and the blazing flames reared upward, and the sacred steeds of the goddess’s brother Helios, tucking their hooves, leapt above the earth’s round surface”. This is how the sea woke up in Thomas Mann’s novel Death in Venice, and the Aral Sea woke up in the same way. Similarly, the sun rose over the ancient Ustyurt Plateau, which stretches out in a wide strip along the sea, disappearing from the face of the Earth, into the Karakum and Kyzylkum deserts. It’s an incredible place. The combination of rock and sand, flowers, and the rays of the rising sun change the colours of the landscape. For the most part it is dark blue and grey, changing to pure white and orange pink, but interspersed with green islands. The flowers are transparent in the first sunlight and spread out for many kilometres around. Stops on the way are momentary, but by getting out of the car as if from a time capsule, you find yourself in the mystical and interesting natural world of Ustyurt. The ancient ocean of the Palaeolithic era Tethys created the relief of Ustyurt and

LANDSCAPE

generously fertilised it with salt, and later the wind, the sun, water and karst processes completed what had begun in ancient times. Due to the relative isolation of the plateau, quite interesting, and sometimes outlandish plants can be found here. The local flora encompasses many differerent species, incuding rare endemic plants of Central Asia, and some species which only grow here. Various types of wormwood are widespread in Ustyurt: biyurgun, sarsazan, boyalych; saxaul is scattered across the plateau in the form of small groves. In small shallow depressions feathergrasses and bushes of caragana and atraphaxis grow. In some areas, you can find a rapidly growing camel thorn and shrubs with white slightly double flowers. The flora of the chinks (cracks and gaps in the sedimentary rock) is quite interesting. The rock is vertically dissected, its surface often tens of metres high (and up to 150m in the north) and with changing vegatation from the bottom to the top. There are many different salt-tolerant shrubs in front of the chinks; on gypsumbearing clays at the very base, biyurgun, sarsazan and saltwort grow. Above, you can sometimes see teresken bushes and dryloving Siberian wheatgrass, and moisture-loving meadow cereals such as areca, crypsis and reed develop on clay substrates with increased humidity. Somewhere in the area of red chinks we saw an apple bush, and nobody, even our drivers who have been showing these places to tourists for many years, do not know how it got there. So, in spite of difficult conditions, the life of a huge plateau continues, plants adapt, live and even bloom. Is this not a message to humanity? Is this not a reminder to learn from nature? Diligence is the mother of success.

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Salom 4

Soat nechi bo’ldi?

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Rakhmat 13

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2021 • No. 29

+998 (90) 715 03 05 +998 (65) 221 08 00

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www.komiltravel.com

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ADDRESS: 40, BARAKIYON ST, BUKHARA

GASTRONOMY

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Text: Guljamal Uzakbergenova | Photo: Andrey Arakelyan Gastronomy is one more reason to fall in love with Uzbekistan. Just the smell of Uzbek plov or samsa is capable of making one’s mouth water. You are never going to have a hard time finding what to eat in our country since gastronomy here is extremely rich and varies dramatically from region to region. This time, be ready for dry climate and scorching summer heat as we are heading to Karakalpakstan to show what this land can offer travelling gourmets.

When thinking of Karakalpakstan, those who have visited this north-western part of Uzbekistan will immediately picture the sandy ruins of once lively cities, the vanishing Aral Sea, or the famous avant-garde art collection at the Savitsky Museum. What you might not hear much about, though, is local food. Well, you should, because Karakalpak gastronomy offers so much to explore and it can be a real pleasure for the palate! Without further ado, let’s find out what makes it so special.

The Typical Karakalpak Menu Karakalpakstan’s cusine is so influenced by the cuisine of the Uzbek, Kazakh, Turkmen and other nations residing nearby that describing a traditional Karakalpak menu simply by listing a couple of dishes would be impossible. However, the traditional cuisine of this nation can be characterised by its simplicity with many dishes having only two to five ingredients. Meat-lovers will certainly enjoy their time in Karakalpakstan as almost every traditional meal involves meat (mostly beef, mutton and poultry) as a chief ingredient. In addition to meat, you would notice the

2021 • No. 29

wide use of vegetables (mostly carrots, potatoes and onions) as well as flour and grain (rice, beans, corn) products. Popular first and second courses that you can definitely find on a dastarkhan (table) of a Karakalpak family include besh barmaq, plov, samsa, lagman, manti and many more. Karakalpaks love hearty home-cooked meals, but what they love even more is home-made bread. Almost all dishes are served with bread made from wheat flour. Baursaks (delicious puffy fried bread) and patir (layered bread) are frequent guests of a Karakalpak dastarkhan, especially for weddings and other celebrations. As for drinks, tea is loved here just as much as it is in other parts of Uzbekistan. For a Karakalpak person a good day starts with a pot of black tea with milk, just as for a Finn it begins with a nice cup of coffee.

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What is unique about Karakalpak cuisine? Karakalpak cuisine shares a lot of similarities to the cuisine of its neighbours, most notably the Uzbek and Kazakh nations. Dumplings, broth-based soups with noodles and puffy fried bread are all commonplace, but there are recipes that are ultimately unique to Karakalpak people and a must-try for those who want to the immerse themselves into the local culinary art. Here a the list of dishes and treats that you can taste only on this land: Qarma: Carp meat boiled in lightly salted water mixed with noodles and fried onions. This national fare is popular in northern regions of Karakalpakstan where fish has been a staple food product for decades. Ju’weri Gurtik: Boiled round-shaped dumplings (made from sorgho flour) topped with meat and vegetables. This essential dish of Karakalpak cuisine is often served to highly respected guests. Aqsawlaq: Slices of pita bread covered with vegetables and meat. This traditional feast is perhaps hundred years old and often cooked for weddings and other special occasions. Takhan: Ground millet grains mixed with sugar. Often this powder is mixed with buttermilk and served for dessert. Zaghara: A small round-shaped bread made from sorgho flour. Сhopped сarrots along with sugar are usually added to dough to sweeten the taste of this Karakalpak bread.

Know more about food culture in Karakalpakstan You might be surprised to hear this but Karakalpaks can actually compete with British people when it comes to tea consumption. Any meal here starts with a pot of tea and ends with it. Similar to most nations that reside in Central Asia, Karakalpaks eat with hands. It is believed that eating with hands makes the taste of a meal even more nourishing. It is accepted to start any meal only when all family members have gathered together.

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MY PERFECT DAY

Yulya Darkova

Photo: Yelena Yunes

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

A DAY IN COLOU RFU L TOPE AUL

I looked at these children and saw myself in them. They stared at me with curiosity and laughed fervently, chatting about something in a language that I did not understand. The music began and I rushed to dance. Women from Karakalpakstan’s Tope Aul immediately supported me and began to show me movements with their hands, at the same time encouraging me with joyful exclamations. They also spoke a language I did not understand, but in dance we understood each other very well. Then I noticed the Karakalpak traditional clothes and immediately asked for one of them. I put on a big dress with wide sleeves, a beautiful vest and a bright skullcap with a pompom. A pompom on the left means that you are married, and on the right – that you are single. That day, in the farthest village of Chimbay district, I seemed to have become a kid again. I can’t explain what happened in my mind, but the stress, desire to criticise, analyse and even think disappeared somewhere. - Yulya, we need to shoot how they make the dough. - Will there be a translator? I have a lot of questions. - Yes of course. I rushed after Nazira, who now showed us how to make the dough. A pumpkin was already boiling in a large pot in the courtyard of her house, melons were scattered nearby, reed mats were spread on the ground, the machine for making the mats is in the corner. The geese rumbled around, frightened by strangers. Life boiled over several square metres. I wanted to absorb it, but I remembered that I needed to shoot evertyhing, so I tried not to knock down the settings on the camera and in my head. - Can I enter the house? I am so interested to see how you live. - Come in, please. You may keep your shoes on. I looked around. There were tall ceilings, spacious rooms and a minimum of furniture. I noticed carpets on the floor and on the walls, an old gas stove, and a lot of different shoes at the entrance, since everyone takes off their shoes when they enter the house. I went back outside to watch the preparation of the dough. It turned out that there was still no flour, which is made from jugara (sorghum), so we needed to make it. It was important for me that the process was honest, and the way they do it every day, and not just to impress the foreigners. I asked through the translator whether they always grinded the jugara in a mortar by hand, and then sifted it to remove the husk. - Yes, we always do that.

2021 • No. 29

MY PERFECT DAY

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

I felt bad for thinking they would lie to me. It would not have occurred to anyone specially on our arrival to put a mill in Nazira’s yard and a hefty stupa next to the stove. Nazira pounded the jugara, ground it into flour, removed the pumpkin (which is an ingredient in the dough) from the heat, mixed everything, and started kneading. Mesmerised I caught myself thinking: how great it is that I am here alone, and there are no more people with a camera. While the freshly kneaded dough rested, Nazira decided to show me the making of reed mats which was very interesting. She threw bricks tied with thick black flagella so effortlessly, that at first it seemed to me that those bricks were as light as pumice. However, it turned out that each of them weighed about a kilogramme. A couple of movements and the next reed stem was laid, a few more hand manipulations and it was “stitched” with a durable thread, and a geometric pattern gradually appeared on the mat. While enjoying the artistic process, I was called back to the main celebration venue. Here music played and children danced in the dust. It is impossible to resist Karakalpak music, therefore, I embarked on another dance surrounded by children. Do you think in the afternoon I matured?! Not at all. I wanted to see camels now, but they were a couple of kilometres away along the dusty road. However, in my playful state, the sea was kneedeep and the dusty road was not a hindrance. It is good that there were adults nearby who were ready to fulfil my child-like whim. I managed to walk a little less than a kilometre before a car stopped to ease the journey. We circled along the roads and then through thorny bushes we walked up to the camels. Some of them were lying in the sun, some were gnawing branches, and a small camel was trying to keep its balance. With curiosity and wonder I joyfully observed these beautiful animals.

The guys called me to photograph them next to the camel. The animal even allowed us a little pet and a kiss. True, it never turned into a prince, but that small interaction was enough for me to experience the indescribable happiness and delight that otherwise happens only in childhood. I could talk endlessly about the impressions which overwhelmed me in Top Aul that day, but the space on the pages is limited. I will just say that for me that day was a real revelation - I not only met many incredible people, tasted new dishes and learned dance moves, but also plunged into childhood, where everything is possible. I was truly myself, and for that I say rakhmat (thank you) to Karakalpakstan, Tope Aul and all its beautiful inhabitants.

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2021 • No. 29

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2021 • No. 29

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2021 • No. 29

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