Visit Uzbekistan 27th Issue by Visit Uzbekistan Magazine

2021, №27

14 New Openings

Your Personal Travel Magazine Lover's 34 Art Guide

Make the 44 People Place

A PARTNERSHIP FOR TOURISM GROWTH Now your favourite magazine Visit Uzbekistan offers original experience tours to the regions of Uzbekistan. Discover Uzbekistan with our Editor-in-Chief Dinara Dultaeva. Off the beaten track experiences with immersion into culture, art, history, gastronomy and authentic lifestyle of local people. Read more about our previous experiences on pages 44-51

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. LET’S MAKE THE MOST OUT OF YOUR TIME IN UZBEKISTAN.

To learn more about our unique approach to travel or discuss a customised tour for you please contact us: Tel: +998933900098

Email: info@dinara.co

2021 | №27

Editor’s note

Founded by

Editor-in-chief Dinara Dultaeva Editor Megan Eaves Graphic designer Ekaterina Nikonova Sales & Distribution Nigora Jamolova PR Department Innessa Anokhina

ife is a journey. But not every journey is easy. Today, when humankind is going through a special journey, our perception of travel is changing as well as our lives. This edition of Visit Uzbekistan magazine, the first in 2021, we devoted to trends, new openings (p.14) and an expectation of “new normal” in travelling. First of all, we researched health and safety (p.12), current travel regulations and event calendar (p.10) for you. The good news is that Uzbekistan is relatively open for easy travelling and most of the infrastructure is working fully, following all the sanitary rules of course. Still we focused more on nature (p.36) and socially distanced experiences (p.16) to be on the safe side. We collected inspiring ideas of outdoor travel, discovered cross-border paths in Central Asia (p.20), highlighted birding (p.28) and historical legacy of spirituality (p.40) in this land. And as usual art (p.34), fashion (p.32) and gastronomy (p.52) were also in focus in our trends watch. Visit Uzbekistan magazine’s team has also started inbound experience tours, very much welcomed by expats. The details of our spectacular trips to Bukhara and Khiva are on page 48. We all understand that life will never be the same again. But we can make it better than before. You can go, where the life leads you. Or you can lead life, where to go. Stay inspired. Dinara Dultaeva

Contributors Islyam Kabirov, Nigora Kosimova, Jamshed Safarov, Alena Gorbacheva, Irina Perova,Guzal Khamida-Kamol, Kamola Makhmudkhodjaeva, Olga Veklich, Odina Ulugbekjanova, Mardonova Luiza, Maksim Mitropolskiy,Dmitriy Kostyushkin, Rashid Kholikov, Photography Feruz Rustamov, Umid Yakubov, Luiza Mardonova, Mukhiddin A Lee Visit Uzbekistan magazine 2021, №27 Official partner The State Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan for Tourism Development Dinara Media Relations PC Dinara&Co. Trademark Tel.: (+998 93) 500 55 65

www.dinara.co info@dinara.co The magazine is registered by Press and Information Agency of Uzbekistan on 12.05.2017. Registration number №0915 ISSN 2181-9254 Printed by “Print.uz” 41/2,Mirabadskaya street, Tashkent, Uzbekistan. Order №208 All rights reserved. © Dinara&Co. © Dinara Dultaeva

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CONTENTS

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

14 New Openings

20 ACROSS THE BORDER

COVER Photographer: Feruz Rustamov Model: Yulduz Radjabova Venue: Registan, Samarkand

CONTENTS

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

People Make The Place

44 52 Gastronomy and Drinks Trends for 2021

Organic food company is the official distributor of the world’s most established organic and gluten free companies including Bob’s Red Mill, Dr.Schar, UBB Sin Free Sugar, Farabella, Lazaroni ( GF and Sugar free lines) and more. Moreover, our company is the first and sole producer of gluten-free bread and pastries in Uzbekistan. The doors of our health conscious food store are always open for you! Come in and enjoy our delicious Italian coffee with desserts that nourish your body, while satisfying your cravings. You can find us at the following address Address: Mirzo-Ulugbek district, C1, Shastri street 26 organicfoods.uz glutenfreeuz@gmail.com @organicfood.uz t.me/organicfoodtashkent + (998) 97 4218887 + (998) 71 2090771

CALENDAR

January

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February

Jan 5-31 Navoi State Academic Theatre Winter Season Festive and winter-themed ballet, opera and musicals for the winter season, including Swan Lake, L'elisir d'amore, Kumush and La Bayadère. Buy tickets online or at the box office. Navoi State Academic Theatre, Tashkent

Mar 8 & surrounding week International Women’s Day All month Winter Sports & Festivals Various winter sports events, family festivals and pro championships, as well as Maslenitsa (Carnival/Pancake Week) festival the last week of the month.

A variety of concerts, performances, discounts and events related to International Women’s Day. Look for news and announcements at specific venues. Across Uzbekistan

Mar 20 & surrounding weeks Navruz

Winter flower and botanical fair held by Tashkent-based garden and flower centre Bahor Gullari. Khasanboy Zone, Tashkent

The annual Central Asian New Year festival is celebrated with various events, including concerts, fairs, cooking traditional dishes, kupkari (Uzbek polo) and other local sports competitions. Across Uzbekistan

August

September

Feb 1-5 Bahor Gullari Co Winter Flower Fair

July

March

mid-Aug Bogi Baland Anjir Festival Boutique fig-harvesting event held in the Bogi Baland fig tree garden founded by Amur Timur. Activities include music, dancing, history events and plenty of fig treats to try. Samarkand

Jul 18 – Sep Mongol Rally

Last week of Aug Sharq Taronalari International Music Festival

Annual international car rally starting in the United Kingdom and finishing in UlanUde, Russia, crossing through Central Asia, including stops in Bukhara and Samarkand. theadventurists.com/guides/mongol-rally

The biannual ‘Melodies of the Orient’ traditional music festival features performers from around the world. Concerts and grand ceremonies take place at the Registan. Samarkand

early Sep (TBC) Maqom International Art Forum Maqom (also known as mug’am) is a traditional local musical art of Turkic and Persian origin. The international festival features singing competitions, a music conference, lectures, crafts fairs and a grand ceremony in Oqsaroy complex. Shakhrisabz, Kashkadarya Region mid-Sep International Festival of Handicrafts Participants from across the globe demonstrate their skills and offer masterclasses in traditional Uzbek handicrafts, such as ceramics, puppeteering and embroidery. There are also concerts and a grand ceremony. Kokand, Fergana Region

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April

Last week of April Boysun Bahori Festival Spring cultural festival in the village of Boysun, including folk music, dances, cuisine, crafts and other traditions of this unique part of southern Uzbekistan. Boysun District, Surkhandarya Region

Whole spring Uloq, Kupkari This is one of the most ancient national games of the peoples of Central Asia. It was celebrated mainly on the occasion of victory and harvest festivals, weddings and celebrations. You can find Kupkari games in Surkhandarya, Qashqadarya and Fergana valley.

October & November

May

May 14-15 Stihia Festival of electronic music, arts and science. Annual EDM rave held at the infamous Ships’ Graveyard on the dry shore of the Aral Sea. All events support the social and economic revival of the local community and environment in this of this area impacted by ecological catastrophe. Moynaq, Karakalpakstan

First half of June (TBC) International Strongman Tournament Local and international strength athletes compete in lifting, pushing and dragging different objects, set against the background of iconic Ichan Kala citadel. Khiva

Last week of May Silk & Spices Festival Music and dance performances, food and crafts demonstrations, fashion shows and more. The highlight is the parade on the first day. Bukhara

late Oct/early Nov Samarkand International Half Marathon Charity run with a series of events organised by the Arts and Culture Development Foundation of Uzbekistan, with an aim to raise public awareness about the problem of inclusivity in arts and culture, while also promoting a healthy lifestyle. Samarkand

First week of Oct Anor Agro-touristic Festival Pomegranate harvest festival, including national crafts, sports and folk music. Varganza village, Kashkadarya province mid-Oct Nurli Navolar Festival Traditional folk-arts festival, with art exhibitions, performances by folklore ensembles, culinary offerings and competitions. Nurata, Navoi Region

June

early Nov International Tashkent ‘Tourism on the Silk Road’ Fair Annual large-scale event and conference bringing together travel companies, media and the general public. Tashkent

December

Last week of Dec New Year Carnival Festival with parade, performances and concerts in the newly opened business quarter of the capital. Tashkent City 31 Dec New Year's Eve Celebratory festivities are staged with fireworks to ring in the new year at midnight. Tashkent and other major cities

HEALTH

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TRAVELLING IN UZBEKISTAN POST-COVID

Kamola Makhmudkhodjaeva tells us how travel in Uzbekistan has changed due to COVID-19, and tips for what to expect during a visit to the country this year. In the spring of 2020, quarantine measures were introduced in Uzbekistan as COVID-19 spread around the world. The pandemic paralysed tourism in Uzbekistan, as it did in most places globally. Despite the sharp decrease in the number of tourists in the first half of last year, the easing of quarantine measures in the autumn opened tourism back up in Uzbekistan. The ban on international tourism was officially lifted on 1 October 2020 in a decision by Uzbekistan’s Special Republican Commission. This has allowed for travel in and out of Uzbekistan based on a stoplight system that categorises arrivals from various countries as ‘Red’, ‘Yellow’ or ‘Green’ according to the epidemiological situation in each country. The colours are monitored and updated regularly by the Commission. As in most places, the pandemic has changed things forever in Uzbekistan and the situation will no doubt continue to shift throughout 2021, as vaccines are rolled out and restrictions further lifted.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE Uzbekistan’s stoplight system categorises travellers into three colourcoded groups: Red, Yellow and Green. Additionally, airlines may have their own measures in place, so it’s important for passengers to check the requirements before they travel. Anyone arriving on a direct flight from a Green country (or who has been in one for 14 days prior to travel) is temperaturechecked in the airport but does not have to quarantine or self-isolate. People from Green countries may travel freely within Uzbekistan immediately.

OUT AND ABOUT:

Those travelling from countries categorised as Yellow or Red (including transiting through one) must present a negative PCR test for COVID-19, issued up to 72 hours before departure. Anyone arriving with a fever must undergo an airport medical check, and those who test positive for COVID-19 are immediately hospitalised for treatment. All travellers are required to fill in an Acknowledgement Form provided by their airline giving their consent to abide by the national health and safety rules.

WHAT TO KNOW

Once all of the health boxes have been ticked, travel around Uzbekistan is, wonderfully, now possible again. This still comes with some new rules and changes to accommodate the ‘new normal’ we find ourselves in. Hotels, restaurants and sightseeing attractions are open across the country. Sanitary conditions must meet national requirements, including disinfection, provision of antiseptic, multilingual hygiene signage, temperature checks, compulsory masks and gloves for employees, and a limit of two guests per room or three guests if members of the same family.

Common Questions Do I need to wear a mask?

What do I need to know about taking public transport (any new requirements or changes to schedules/ticketing)?

Yes, it is compulsory to wear a mask everywhere in public in Uzbekistan.

All work, but passengers should wear masks etc. Train and planes’ schedules are not fully back to normal yet

In restaurants, can I take off my mask to eat and drink?

What happens if I get sick while I am in Uzbekistan?

Yes, masks may be removed while dining or drinking.

If a visitor feels unwell and suspects COVID-19 infection, they must seek medical attention (via their tour guide/hotel reception desk or otherwise) and be PCR tested. Treatment can be both in a hospital or in another location, depending on conditions.

Is hand sanitiser widely available or should I bring my own? Hotels, restaurants and shops must provide hand sanitiser for guests; however, it’s a good idea to bring your own supply, as well.

Is there any kind of national track and trace scheme, such as needing to ‘check in’ via an app when you arrive at a restaurant or other venue?

Uzbekistan has not employed widespread use of a track and trace app, so you will not be expected to ‘check in’ at venues you visit.

“Uzbekistan. Safe travel GUARANTEED” is set of measures designed to ensure safe stays for tourists in Uzbekistan. As part of this scheme, if a foreign tourist catches COVID-19 while traveling in Uzbekistan, they are entitled to up to US$3,000 compensation their treatment. To qualify, travellers must be on an organised group tour. If you contract COVID during your trip, the money will be paid to reimburse medical expenses.

Where can I get more information? The State Committee for Tourism’s official website has detailed information on COVID-19 for visitors: https:// uzbekistan.travel/en/o/covid-19-in-uzbekistan/ More info about flights: uzairways.uz More info about trains: railway.uz

LIFESTYLE

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NEW OPENINGS Text by Kamola Makhmudkhodjaeva

Despite the global shutdown due to the pandemic in 2020, a lot of fantastic new openings took place in Uzbekistan. We watched what was happening with admiration, because even at such a time people did not give up on moving forward with their amazing ideas. Here, we spotlight some of the cool new businesses that opened their doors in the strange year that was 2020, and glance ahead to what we can expect in 2021.

Hilton At the beginning of 2020, Hilton Tashkent City began opened its first property in Uzbekistan. Due to the fact that a lot of large projects were initially planned for 2020, many international travellers and business visitors arrived in the country early on in the year, so the opening of the hotel came in handy. Located within walking distance of both Chorsu Bazaar and Alisher Navoi Opera, the 21-story new-build has 258 rooms, including eight presidential suites. There are three on-site restaurants, including City 21, a pan-Asian restaurant located on the top floor, with panoramic views of Tashkent. Visit Uzbekistan magazine hosted its 25th edition’s launch at spectacular banroom of the hotel. Find out more: hilton.com/en/hotels/ tastchi-hilton-tashkent-city

Centre for Contemporary Arts The country's first centre for contemporary art opened in the spring of 2020. The Center for Contemporary Art (CCA) is located in a historic brick building, erected in 1912 by the architect Wilhelm Heinzelm. Prior to the 1917 Revolution, the building was a diesel power station that generated energy for Tashkent’s tram line. The CCA’s mission is to establish intercultural dialogue with foreign countries and to integrate the visual art of Uzbekistan into the global cultural context. It will also develop a programme of performances, film screenings, exhibitions and seminars aimed at fostering the understanding of contemporary art in Uzbekistan, as well as serving as an incubator for new works of art. Find out more: ccat.uz

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Courtyard by Marriott Tashkent The first Courtyard by Marriott property in Central Asia opened in Tashkent at the end of 2020. This is also Marriott’s first property in Uzbekistan. The four-star hotel is located in the south part of the city, partway between the airport and the city centre. The hotel has 131 rooms and suites, including some rooms with balconies.There are also multi-use conference rooms with a capacity of up to 250 people. Onsite dining options include MEATme, an all-day European buffet and grill, and the Ugolёk Terrace, which offers a la carte Uzbek cuisine. Sports bar in the lobby and “Reading room lounge” on the 8th floor. Find out more: marriott.com/hotels/ travel/tascy-courtyard-tashkent

Silk Road Family Resort A new beach resort has opened on the shores of Tudakul Lake in the Navoi region. The Silk Road Family Resort officially opened to guests on 16 August 2020, although construction is set to continue on parts of the resort until 2022. Facilities include a lakeside beach with sun loungers, a summer terrace and swimming pool along with a familyfriendly water park, a small theme park with rides, a 50-room hotel, a restaurant styled like a ship, spa, medical suite and wellness centre, a sports centre and equestrian facilities. Private water transport will be offered and the resort

plans to host various open-air concerts and shows. Find out more: instagram.com/tudakul

Magic City Touting itself as the largest family theme park in Central Asia, the new Magic City is under construction in Alisher Navoi National Park in central Tashkent. Magic City will feature a host of rides and entertainment attractions, including a water park, a singing fountain and a laser cinema (similar to IMAX) with six screens – the first of its kind in the country. A 4500 sq m aquarium – the

first oceanarium of its kind in Central Asia – is also in the works. It will feature a 20m water tunnel, children's 'research zone' and some 500 aquatic species. A Parisian-theme shopping street will be home to a number of designer Uzbek and international brands, restaurants, cafes and much more. Find out more: facebook.com/magiccityuz It is expected that there will be many more openings including a variety of tourism organisations, hotels, restaurants and cafes, which will no doubt aid in growing tourism in Uzbekistan as the sector starts to recover in 2021 and beyond.

JOURNEY

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

GETTING AWAY FROM IT ALL SOCIALLY DISTANCED EXPERIENCES IN UZBEKISTAN

Text by Jamshed Safarov and Alyona Gorbacheva. Photos by Feruz Rustamov One of the main tenets of successful business is the ability to see the prospects and positive sides in any situation. This rule applies to life as well. It became especially relevant during the global pandemic, when the coronavirus and forced selfisolation at home divided reality into ‘before’ and ‘after’. For most of us, lockdown has been in some ways a crisis, causing a constant state of stress, apathy and fear of the unknown. But despite the rigid rules, the pandemic has been a chance to grow – a unique opportunity for radical self-examination and positive change. While it’s true that life will never truly be the same in a post-COVID world, we don’t think that has to be a bad thing. Carpe diem, we say! Let’s seize this once-in-a-generation chance to reinvent our world for the better. A good start is humankind’s renewed appreciation for space, the outdoors and nature: we’ve reconnected with our natural world. In celebration of that, we’ve rounded up the best of Uzbekistan’s naturally socially distanced experiences, where you can truly get away from it all.

HEAD FOR THE HILLS Uzbekistan is blessed with magnificent mountains and picturesque hillsides that make the perfect spots for various outdoor experiences. There are experiences for all types of travellers, from seasoned climbers or mountain bikers to anyone just wanting a soft hike or long walk in the countryside. Just an hour's drive from Tashkent, is the beautiful village of Suqoq with its surrounding pine forest. A walk deep into this mountain forest brings you to the legendary Singing Cave, where you can stop for a picnic (take your rubbish with you afterwards!) and then hike to the top of Shakh-Kurgon hill for amazing panoramic views. If you’ve a couple of days to spare in the Tashkent region and feel strong enough for a more vigorous hike, you can hire a professional guide to take you to the legendary Urungach ‘Jade’ Lakes.

Suqoq

And from Samarkand, it’s not far to the Urgut or Ohalik mountains, which are famed for their ancient history and natural beauty.

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EXPLORE ANCIENT ROCK ART Central Asia is abundant with evidence of the first humans and very ancient civilisations. And one of the most significant sites is in the Sarmishsay Gorge (Navoi region, between Samarkand and Bukhara). There are in fact two huge sites containing around 10,000 petroglyphs (rock carvings), which date back to the Stone Age. They depict people and animals (some of which are long extinct) in various scenes of daily life and religious rites. Walking and enjoying this ancient art gallery in the rocks squeezed between the steppe and the Kyzylkum Desert is truly a jaw-dropping experience!

SWIM IN A DESERT LAKE Lesser known, properly remote and surrounded by mountains and the vast Kyzylkum Desert, Aydarkul Lake is now the largest water basin in Central Asia. Drive north from Sarmyshsay and you will reach its shores, which are heaven for birdwatchers and skinny-dippers alike. Lay out a towel on the sandy shore and sunbathe, swim in the warm, salty water, or hire a boat and cruise around under the desert sun. In the evening, escape to the nearby yurt camp and spend a night stargazing with a cup of tea made over an open fire, or strong local camel milk booze. Head to bed early so you can nip back over to the lake to watch the sunrise.

Sarmish

Urungach ‘Jade’ Lakes

Suqoq

JOURNEY

SEE A DRIED-UP SEA Sound gloomy? The Ship Graveyard in Moynaq is indeed a sad (and educating story) of how humans managed to destroy the entire Aral Sea and almost everything around it in a mere 40 years. The Aral Sea was once the biggest body of water in the region, with a flourishing fishing industry and unique ecosystem. However, it has now all but dried up because of intensive farming and irresponsible use of water resources from its tributary rivers during the second half of 20th century. The former fishing town of Moynaq and its notorious ‘ship graveyard’ – a collection of rusting, hulking boats now leaning sadly on the desert floor – has become a monument to this tragedy. Thanks to joint international efforts and some creativity, the area’s long-suffering inhabitants are now welcoming tourists and have engaged in a programme of environmental rehabilitation through planting trees and endemic bushes Moynaq

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

to stop salt storms. Moynaq now also hosts several festivals, including the annual Stihia Festival, an electronic music fest that aims to draw attention to the Aral Sea disaster. Hire a 4x4 or desert-appropriate car and local driver from Nukus (capital of autonomous Karakalpakstan) – it takes several hours to reach Moynaq.

WANDER THE LAND OF FIFTY CASTLES Remote, vast and scarcely populated, Karakalpakstan is an ideal place for social distancing. But this far western part of Uzbekistan is extremely rich with unique cultural heritage and nature. Aside from must-see Savitsky Art Museum in Nukus, Karakalpakstan is home to dozens of fortresses and other monuments dating to the pre-Islamic era. Some of them, like Chilpik (Tower of Silence) represent the Zoroastrian religion, while others were important military outposts and political centres of the Kingdom of Khorezm. These now lay half-ruined and semi-forgotten after centuries of nomadic invasions and climate change, which turned once-green valleys here into a desert several centuries ago. Make sure to visit Ayaz-Kala, which comprises the ruins of three mighty fortresses. With the combination of ancient skyline and expansive desert landscape, this could be another planet. Or a scene from Star Wars.

UNCOVER THE FORTRESS OF AMAZONS Speaking of films and mythology, if you are fascinated by stories of archeological adventurers and legendary fighters, head to the Surkhandarya region in the very south of Uzbekistan. There are many wonders in this land, but the Kirk-Kiz (Forty Girls) archeological site is the best place to get lost. Located a few kilometres away from Termez (a city itself founded by Alexander the Great and taking its name from the Greek word for ‘hot’), Kirk-Kiz was either a fortress or a religious site. But local legend attributes it to the Princess Gulaim and her forty shield-maidens, who bravely fought against invaders and used the fortress as their base. The abandoned rooms, half-ruined arches and empty hallways are both fascinating and naturally distanced.

GET ACTIVE IN THE CITY The pandemic created a whole new way of life for urbandwellers, with outdoor activities and sports taking centre stage. Uzbekistan’s main cities offer excellent opportunities for walking in the fresh air, sports and other active pastimes. Numerous municipal parks and urban green spaces allow jogging, rollerblading and bicycle hire. In Tashkent, two of the best places are the Ecopark and the area along the Anhor River, while in Samarkand, head to University Boulevard. Taking up a new sport is also an option. A number of sports clubs offer the chance to train under the clear guidance of an

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instructor. There is a big range of choice, whether it's yoga, strength training, pilates, tennis or golf. The best fitness centres in Tashkent are Ozone (facebook.com/ozonefc.uz) and BeFit (befit.uz/en), which offer a range of modern gym facilities.

GO FOR A RIDE Horse riding has a long history in Central Asia, which is home to traditional breeds like the Akhal-Teke and Karabair. There are lots of opportunities to get in the saddle around Uzbekistan. Experiences range from easy outings for beginners to lengthy treks for seasoned equestrians. There are a number of horse yards in the outskirts of Tashkent and several other cities, or you can sign up for a guided day ride or multi-day trek through the mountains.

HIT THE SLOPES Uzbekistan’s eastern mountains are a playground for winter sports. Skiing, sledding and snowshoeing take social distancing into an icy fairy tale. The rush of conquering a frigid, snowcapped mountain on skis or a snowmobile will wipe away the past year’s worries. Then, in the evening, you can cuddle up by the fire, sip a steaming cup of tea or warm your cockles with a glass of Uzbek wine and let the world drift away. The recently opened Amirsoy ski resort (amirsoy.com) offers all this plus a hammam and spa, restaurants and gorgeous chalets to sleep in. You won’t have to see another person for days.

Ayaz-Kala

Aydarkul

CENTRAL ASIA

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Across The Border Text by olga veklich

EXTENDING YOUR VISIT TO UZBEKISTAN’S NEIGHBOURS Central Asia lends itself naturally to cross-border travel. The region’s five countries – Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan – share borders, histories and other elements of culture. Heritage has mixed here over centuries of the Silk Road trade that passed through them all, yet each country has something different for travellers to experience and try, whether grand historic monuments, unique culinary treats, scenic mountains, vast deserts, outdoor sports or exciting cities. Recent years have seen positive changes that have opened borders, flight and train routes and new visa schemes that have eased travel within the region. Once you’ve made it to Uzbekistan, it’s easy to add a cross-border excursion onto your trip. With more careful preliminary planning, a much longer journey through the region is also a popular option.

FROM UZBEKISTAN TO KYRGYZSTAN A trip east to Kyrgyzstan – a country of high mountains and nomadic cultures – can be easily done overland. The most well-used and convenient border crossing is in the Fergana Valley, between the cities of Fergana (Uzbekistan) and Osh (Kyrgyzstan). It’s worth noting that one border crossing point often has two different names in the two countries, but there is usually a prevailing version known to pretty much everyone. This particular border to Kyrgyzstan is known as ‘Dustlik’. After crossing, you will need to acquire local currency (som), and it is advisable to purchase a local SIM card for mobile data. From Osh, it’s an adventurous route to the capital city via a number of wild and beautiful places, including Toktogul Lake, Son-Köl Lake, and the pearl of Kyrgyzstan, Lake Issyk-Kul. Following this route, you also pass through the incredible Jeti-Oguz gorge and the cosy town of Karakol before finally arriving to Bishkek.

Although COVID-19 has thrown a spanner into the freedom of movement for now, it’s still possible to make cross-border trips. And it is our great hope that, in 2021 and beyond, the world will be healthy and free travel across the region will once again be open to all. Read on for our tips on how to independently build a crossborder trip across Central Asia from Uzbekistan. .

Lake Issyk-Köl.

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THE ROAD TO THE KAZAKH STEPPE The most convenient overland route from Uzbekistan north to Kazakhstan lies across the ‘Zhypek Zholy’ border, located between Tashkent and Shymkent in Kazakhstan. After crossing the border, you will also need to purchase the Kazakh currency: tenge. From here, it’s easy to reach several key Central Asian sights, the most important of which is the city of Turkestan, the ancient settlement of Otrar. After that, a short flight is the best way to reach the Kazakh capital, Nur-Sultan, with its unusual modern architecture, or leafy, cosmopolitan Almaty, which makes a great base for exploring the Tien Shan Mountains and further afield.

Charyn canyon

BY ANY ROUTE TO THE TAJIK MOUNTAINS Uzbekistan has more working tourist borders with Tajikistan than any of its other neighbours. The most popular of these is the ‘Oybek’ border, located between the cities of Bekabad (Uzbekistan, 180km south of Tashkent) and Khujand (Tajikistan). Upon arrival in Tajikistan, you’ll also need to exchange money for Tajik somoni and, if possible, purchase a local SIM card. If you’re planning a short trip, bear in mind most Tajik accommodation has decent wifi. From Khujand, the road continues south to the Tajik capital, Dushanbe. But if you’re interested in hiking, then it’s an easy drive from this border to the Fann Mountains. Several alpine camps are reachable by car, and then a several-day trek to the fine scenery of the turquoise Alauddin and Kulikalon Lakes.

Childukhtaron

CENTRAL ASIA

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Another very popular and convenient tourist border is ‘Jartepa’, located between Samarkand and Penjikent (Tajikistan). This location is particularly convenient because it allows you to build interesting tourist routes without adding too much extra time onto your itinerary. From Samarkand it takes no more than 30 minutes to reach the crossing, and from there carry on to the medieval city of Penjikent a few kilometres across the border. One of the most notable places in this area is the settlement of Sarazm (15km from Penjikent), where traces of Neolithic and Bronze Age cultures have been discovered. From here, head to the colourful Marguzor and Iskanderkul lakes, the latter of which is named after Alexander the Great. It’s worth spending an extra night on the shore and taking some hikes into the surrounding mountains. This itinerary finishes in Dushanbe, and can be done in as little as five days if you’re in a hurry. There’s also a border into Tajikistan within the Fergana Valley at a crossing called ‘Andarkhan’. This border connects Fergana (Uzbekistan) with Khujand (Tajikistan), which offers a slightly different entry point for the itinerary described above. One final, lesser-known crossing into Tajikistan is ‘Saryosie’, located between the cities of Termez (Uzbekistan) and Dushanbe (Tajikistan). Few tourists use this crossing, as there isn’t much in the way of sightseeing and there are very few places to stop overnight. Likewise, the roads are not in the best condition and the checkpoint is remote, but travellers looking to dip into Tajikistan across an off-the-beaten-track border might find this to be an unusual little excursion.

Dushanbe

THROUGH THE KARAKUM DESERT TO TURKMENISTAN Visiting Turkmenistan is tricky for international travellers, as all visitors must be booked onto a guided tour. This makes taking a quick add-on journey across the border almost impossible. Your best bet is to book with a reputable travel agency, who will arrange all of the paperwork and transport for an overland crossing from Uzbekistan south into Turkmenistan (or the opposite way). One of the borders between Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan is the ‘Farab’ border between the cities of Bukhara and Mary. You’ll need to exchange currency for Turkmen manats, as regional currencies aren’t accepted in Turkmenistan. Near Mary is the ancient city of Merv, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and once one of the largest cities in Central Asia. From Mary, most tourist itineraries head directly to the capital, Ashgabat, by car or air. The second popular border between Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan is the ‘Shavat’ crossing, located between Khiva and Dashoguz (Turkmenistan). Immediately after the border formalities, you can visit the settlement of Kunya-Urgench, once the largest city on the Silk Road.

Darvaza

A PARTNERSHIP FOR TOURISM GROWTH Supporting Uzbekistan’s economic and touristic growth is key for the Visit Uzbekistan team. With our international partners, we are launching a new partnership for public and private sector stakeholders to develop and promote the tourism sector, enabling Uzbekistan to realise its potential.

Benefits of joining the Visit Uzbekistan partnership includes: Collective B2B and B2C marketing;

B2B networking opportunities;

Hospitality and communications training;

Access to international consultants and service providers;

Representation at international trade shows and consumer travel events;

Designated website and social media channels.

Market reports and analysis;

ADVISORY COUNCIL OF THE BUSINESS PARTNERSHIP VISIT UZBEKISTAN: Sophie Ibbotson, Ambassador of Tourism of Uzbekistan in the UK, Founder of the Maximum Exposure Agency, UK. Provides strategic development planning, market research and reports, PR and logistics services, and introductions to business and policy leaders.

Egor Sharai, chief editor of Concierge Magazine, United Arab Emirates. The magazine is published in Dubai in 4 languages for a quarter of a century and plays a leading role in the UAE tourism market. Company provides support in entering the market and promotion destinations in GCC countries.

Axel Porsch, founder of Porsch Communications, Germany. Communication consultancy firm (media planning, media purchasing, media optimization), works with advertisement agencies as well as with direct clients.

Yulia Shukina, founder of the Know-How Media agency for the promotion of countries, Russia. The company is an integrated approach to promotion touristic-products of the National Tourism Offices, hotels, airlines, travel companies in social networks and in the media.

Tan Bilge, head of media buying agencies in Turkey and Germany. Media Ltd. is an Istanbul based international media groups with expertise of TV, print, digital and outdoor media. Covers media buying in Germany, France, Middle-East, Italy, UK, India and China.

Karen Anand, Karen’s Gourmet Kitchen Pvt Ltd, India. Karen is a famous businesswoman, food writer, founder of gourmet manufacturing in India. Since 2018 she started organizing luxury tours to Uzbekistan from India.

Mauro Lovecchio, founder of Studio Lovecchio in Italy, the Czech Republic, China, and Uzbekistan. The company consults on investment in real estate and tourism infrastructure (Italy, Estonia, Uzbekistan). Gleb Borukhov, Investment Director, Realia Capital Group, London. Investment management company works in a multifamily office format and manages the capital of private wealthy clients. As part of its investment activities, Realia specializes in structuring and managing direct private investments. Giorgi Tskhakaia, co-founder of the Azerbaijani company GLCC Solutions for state reform consulting. The consulting company covers the entire range of public sector reforms.

If you want to get more information about the Business Club Visit Uzbekistan, we are ready to provide you with a presentation or answer your questions by phone.

Tel.: +(99893) 390 00 98

info@dinara.co

TRANSPORT

Afrosiyob Ahoy!

GE T T I NG A ROU N D UZ BE K I STA N BY T R A I N

Text by Rashid Kholikov History knows no greater international route than the Great Silk Road. Over ten thousand kilometers long and spanning the lands of two continents, the Silk Road had Uzbekistan at its very centre. Here, the trading city of Samarkand stood at the intersection of several key caravan roads. This great, ancient city marked the midway point for most journeys across its length. Exhausted caravan guards must have breathed a sigh of relief approaching Samarkand after weeks of journeying, knowing they were now halfway across the vast expanses from China to the Mediterranean. Today, we cross Uzbekistan more comfortably. No longer by camel, horse or on foot, instead our caravans trundle over the landscape in the form of high-speed trains. Here’s everything you need to know about making a journey through Uzbekistan by train.

UZBEKISTAN RAILWAYS Today, a network of trains, operated by Uzbekistan Railways, connects most of the cities and main tourist points in Uzbekistan. High-speed, electric trains carry travellers between Samarkand and Bukhara, where the country’s main historic and Silk Road sights are preserved. You can also take a non-high-speed train from Bukhara to Urgench, the jumping-off-point for the UNESCO-listed, open-air city-museum, Khiva. Also by railway you can reach the lesser visited Fergana Valley in the eastern part of Uzbekistan, which is home to sights related to the Kokand Khanate (1709–1876). Trains run to the Fergana city of Margilan, where you can visit the famed Khan-atlas and adras fabric factories for an up-close look at Uzbek silks. The journey itself is a tremendously scenic train ride. The railway line runs through the Kamchik Pass via a 19km-long tunnel through the mountain range that separates the Fergana Valley from the rest of Uzbekistan, offering scenic views at every bend.

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HIGH-SPEED TRAIN Uzbekistan’s high-speed railway network, known as the ‘Afrosiyob’, continues to grow, with trains running between Tashkent, Samarkand, Qarshi and Bukhara, and a line expansion in progress to Khiva. Built and implemented by the Spanish railway companies Renfe and Talgo, the trains have an aerodynamic design, reaching operating speeds of 250km/h, and excellent safety record. Afrosiyob trains are roomy and comfortable. All passenger seats are equipped with streamlined recliners, a table and footrest, reading lamps, a built-in audio-video module and monitors for watching TV. There are overhead racks and luggage space at the ends of the carriages; officially the limit on luggage allowance that passengers may bring on board is 36kg per person. All of the carriages on these trains are non-smoking. Each car is equipped with an information board that displays details about the route, carriage number, air temperature in the cabin and the train’s current speed. Windows have sun shades and are made of special laminated glass for sound insulation, ensuring a quiet journey. The Afrosiyob is also equipped with accessibility features for travellers with disabilities. All floors are level for wheelchair access, and in the third car there are zoned wheelchair areas equipped with fasteners and conductor call buttons. There is also a wheelchair accessible toilet on board. Afrosiyob trains have a ‘Bistro’ carriage that serves Central Asian and European snacks, as well as soft and alcholic drinks, tea and coffee.

TRANSPORT

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

‘SHARQ’ SIGNATURE TRAIN Branded ‘Sharq’ (meaning ‘East’ in Uzbek), this express train connects the three ancient cities of Uzbekistan – Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara – slightly faster than local stopping trains do. Reaching a maximum speed of 160km/h, the Sharq train zips the 616km between Tashkent and Bukhara in six hours and 40 minutes – five hours faster than travelling on a regular train. On the way, the Sharq makes a 20-minute stop in Samarkand. The train has comfortable sleeper carriages with two-bed compartments, as well first- and second-class seated carriages. First-class accommodation is in three- or six-person couchette seats, while second-class carriages have open-plan rows of seats. There’s also a buffet car serving snacks and refreshments. Each carriage has TVs where passengers can watch shows and music videos, listen to the radio or music, and read a variety of news outlets. On the way, passengers are offered a light breakfast (included in the fare) and a wide range of drinks, including beer and wine. Sharq trains are comfortable and kept to an international standard. Seats are ergonomic, there’s good noise insulation and temperatures inside the carriages are kept comfortable year-round.

TASHKENT-BUKHARA NIGHT TRAIN If you prefer to sleep and travel at the same time, the Tashkent-Bukhara night train (train no. 661/662) is a great option. The service departs daily from Tashkent in the evening just after 8pm, arriving to Bukhara at 6am the next day, so tourists arrive well-rested and can drop straight into a day of sightseeing in the old town. The return service leaves Bukhara at 9:20pm. Carriages are comfortable, allowing passengers to get a good night's sleep. There are several classes: first-class has cosy, two-bed compartments; second class has four-bed compartments, and there are several dorm-style carriages with 54 openplan beds, suitable for budget travellers. The train is formed of 20-22 cars (the number varies from service to service) and includes five or six SV-class (double deluxe) carriages, which are kitted out with TVs. There’s also a dining carriage serving Uzbek and European-style meals, snacks and drinks.

NATURE

TAKING FLIGHT UZBEKISTAN’S BEST BIRDING EXPERIENCES

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The Bukhara tit

Crowned pendulum TEXT BY LUIZA MARDONOVA & MAKSIM MITROPOLSKIY PHOTO BY LUIZA MARDONOVA

Uzbekistan is a birder’s paradise. Its unique territorial location in the middle of Central Asia lies along the routes of two large migratory paths: the Afro-Eurasian and Central Asian flyways. The result is a rich diversity of avian life, with some 465 bird species found in Uzbekistan. Luiza Mardonova from the State Ecology Committee and national Ramsar coordinator, and Maksim Mitropolskiy, one of Uzbekistan’s foremost ornithological guides, offer an introduction to sounding out and spotting the country’s many feathered creatures.

irdwatching involves observing and studying birds with the naked eye, or with binoculars or a telescope. A camera with a long focal length is also often used. Taking photographs of birds is an aesthetic pleasure and also makes it more likely to identify the species that has been spotted. In addition to visual observation, the term birding encompasses the act of listening to birdsong, as many species can be most easily recognised by their sounds.

Uzbekistan's diverse terrain and natural world combines the vast deserts of the west with high mountains in the east. The dry desert areas are home to a number of endemic Asian birds: the Pander's ground jay (Podoces panderi), Eurasian tree sparrow (Passer montanus) and the Bukhara tit (Parus bokharensis, also known as the Turkestan tit). All of these are interspersed with rivers and water features that attract huge numbers aquatic bird species. Birding can be done all year round, but the optimal time is from the end of April through mid-June. This is the high season for international avian tourists looking for migratory species and comfortable weather. But for local birdwatchers, the winter

period is also interesting, when birds from the north arrive in Uzbekistan in order to spend the winter. Visitors interested in avian tourism often combine birding activities together with visits to Uzbekistan’s tremendous historical sights: the ancient cities of the Great Silk Road – Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. Outside the cities, a typical birding tour usually takes in visits to a number of mountainous areas: Beldersay tract on the Chatkal ridge and Aman-Kutan tract on the Zeravshan ridge, or explorations of the Kyzylkum Desert, along the ancient road from Khiva to Bukhara. Evenings can be spent soaking up the atmosphere of Central Asia, tasting traditional Uzbek food and enjoying the country’s warm hospitality.

UP IN THE MOUNTAINS

he mountain ranges of the Western Tien Shan and Pamir-Alai attract their own set of species. Here, you may come across larger birds of prey; for example, the bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus), Himalayan vulture (Gyps himalayensis) and booted eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), as

NATURE

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Tern

OUT IN THE DESERT Saxaul Jay

well as smaller species like the white-winged woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucopterus), Indian paradise flycatcher (Terpsiphone paradisi), chestnut-breasted bunting (Emberiza stewarti), rufous-naped tit (Periparus rufonuchalis) and yellowbreasted tit (Parus flavipectus). Not far from the Uzbek capital Tashkent, Beldersay tract is located in the spurs of the Chatkal ridge. Although altitudes here only reach 1800 to 2400m, it is a transition zone from walnut to juniper forest and is home to mountain bird species that, in other places such as the Himalaya, live much higher up. This makes spotting rarer mountain birds much more accessible, as they live at lower altitudes in Uzbekistan than in other parts of the world. Among these species are the mountain warbler (Sylvia althaea), rock bunting (Emberiza cia), blue whistling thrush (Myophonus caeruleus), brown dipper (Cinclus pallasii), white-crowned penduline tit (Remiz coronatus) and others. Just outside the legendary city of Samarkand, the Aman-Kutan tract is located in the spurs of the Zeravshan ridge at an altitude of 1600-1800m. Here, in the zones of forests and low mountain meadows, you can find the paradise flycatcher (Terpsiphone paradisi), the common greenfinch (Chloris chloris), the shortbilled lark (Calandrella acutirostris), the black-faced shrike (Lanius minor), bilious bunting (Emberiza bruniceps) and the white-collar nightingale (Irania gutturalis) are the most interesting species to observe in Uzbekistan.

lthough much of western Uzbekistan is desert, the most accessible and lively desert for birders is the south-central part of the Kyzylkum Desert, which stretches between the cities of Khiva and Bukhara. This area is home to the entire complex of desert fauna. Among the birds: the Pander's ground jay (Podoces panderi), Asian desert warbler (Sylvia nana), desert finch (Rhodospiza obsoleta), scrub warbler (Scotocerca inquieta), steppe grey shrike (Lanius pallidirostris), common owl (Athene noctua), black-bellied sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis). Those who are very lucky indeed may even encounter the endemic MacQueen's bustard (Chlamydotis macqueenii). During your avian spotting adventures, don’t forget to look out for other desert mammals. In this area you may see large gerbils, yellow and thin-toed ground squirrels and reptiles, the most interesting of which are the Lichtenstein's toadhead (Phrynocephalus interscapularis), the steppe agama (Trapelus sanguinolentus), and the grey desert monitor lizard (Varanus griseus).

ON THE WATER

ou’ll want to plan several days for visiting aquatic areas, several of which are within striking distance from Uzbekistan’s main cities. Near Tashkent, the Chirchik River and the Tuyabuguz Reservoir are full of birdlife, and not far from Samarkand are the Zeravshan River and the Chelek fish farm, located at the Akdarya Reservoir. Just outside of Bukhara

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are Tudakul Lake and the Amu-Bukhara canal, both prime birding locations. These easy-to-reach locations offer a variety of species to look out for: cormorant (Microcarbo pygmaeus), little egret (Egretta garzetta), purple heron (Ardea purpurea), night heron (Nycticorax nycticorax), Eurasian oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus), gulls such as the laughing gull and slender-billed gull (Chroicocephalus genei), and terns including the Caspian tern (Hydroprogne caspia) and little tern (Sternula albifrons). Among the reeds live the Turkestan warbler (Acrocephalus stentoreus), paddyfield warbler (Acrocephalus agricola), bearded reedling (Panurus biarmicus) and others.

RAMSAR SITES

zbekistan has several designated Ramsar sites, recognised for their birdlife. These are wetlands of international importance recognised by the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands for containing representative, rare or unique wetland species. Uzbekistan has several reservoirs of international importance, including Dengizkul Lake in the far south, the Aydar-Arnasay lakes in Jizzakh and Navoi regions, and Tudakul and Kuyimazar reservoirs near Bukhara.

Lake Dengizkul is located 75km south-southwest of the city of Bukhara, near the border with Turkmenistan. It is of decisive importance for migratory and wintering waterfowl, as it is located on the migration route for birds from Western Siberia and Kazakhstan to their Indo-Pakistani wintering grounds.

31 The Aydar-Arnasay lake system is located in the eastern part of Uzbekistan, near the border of Kazakhstan and falls into two administrative territories: the Jizzakh and Navoi regions. Spanning 4000 sq km, Aydar-Arnasay is the largest aquatic avian habitat in Uzbekistan, with the Ramsar site covering 5271 sq km within it Being at the centre of the migratory waterfowl route, the lake system plays an important role as a place of mass wintering, as well as a migratory stop. Some 200 species of waterfowl are found here, and of these, more than 20 are included in the Red Book of the Republic of Uzbekistan – the national record of rare and endangered species of flora and fauna. Additionally, 12 of these species are included on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Red List, meaning they are threatened. The Tudakul and Kuimazar reservoirs are of international importance for the migration, wintering and breeding of waterfowl. The birds of this region are well studied. The territory of the two reservoirs is an important stopover for migratory birds on the Central Asian flyway. According to the bird census, over the past five years on average more than 40,000 individual birds wintered in these reservoirs. These bodies of water are inhabited by 229 bird species, which is 91% of the region's total bird species, 24 of which are listed in the Red Book of the Republic of Uzbekistan. Connect with Uzbekistan’s birding community at https://uzbekistan. birds.watch, where community members post photos, videos, diaries and bird observations, as well as a complete list of bird species and short species descriptions.

FASHION

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Designers

T O WA T C H T H I S Y E A R Text by Irina Perova

Uzbekistan’s dynamic fashion industry gets better all the time, with new names showing up on the catwalk and established designers continuing to make strides at home and abroad. A distinctive and unique feature of Uzbek fashion is delicate taste and flourishes of traditional national style in every design. Irina Perova rounds up 10 designers to keep your eyes on this year.

MOEL BOSH Moel Bosh collections are a symbiosis of chic and ready-to-wear clothes created with eco-consciousness in mind, including a method for recycling the fabrics used. Classic, clean silhouettes like suits and overcoats take on new meanings with ikat patterns and traditional Uzbek fabrics. The brand launched its debut collection in 2012 under the Transfiguration project. Over the years, Moel Bosh has presented its creations at Mercedes Benz Fashion Weeks in Russia, and Tbilisi, Astana Fashion Week, the Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival and Riga Fashion Week.

LALI FASHION Lali Fashion House has, for years, been showing Uzbek fashion to audiences abroad, including in Turkey, Japan, Russia, France, Monaco and elsewhere. Artisans in Margilan create fabrics exclusively for each look, so Lali’s whole process for creating their collections is localised. In the Lali Fashion Couture 2020 collection, designer Lali Fazilova conjures ancient traditions and aesthetics of the Far East and expresses a rich pan-Asian essence, from Uzbekistan to Japan. Lali’s dynamic approach were reflected in the designs it showed during at Tashkent Fashion Week in 2019.

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DILDORA KASIMOVA Dildora Kasimova has risen quickly in the Uzbek fashion industry since 2006, when she showed her collection at Style Uz in Tashkent. Kasimova produces compelling collections that combine traditional Uzbek fabrics and patterns with contemporary silhouettes and accessories.

ANOR ATELIER Founded by designer Dilnoza Umirzakova, Anor Atelier produces a line of handmade products, which allow customers to see and engage with the creation process. Together with her team, Umirzakova has represented Uzbekistan at fashion weeks in Milan, Singapore and India. Anor Atelier also has a stunning bridal line that incorporates traditional Uzbek patterns and silhouettes to make unique, couture wedding gowns.

DILNOZ ERKINOVA Each creation of the designer is closely related to national traditions and customs, which allows you to plunge into the atmosphere of native motives. Natural silk, taffeta, velvet, chiffon, tweed and velor are the main materials used in the creation of Dilnoz’s collections. She has participated in many festivals and fashion shows such as: Tashkent Fashion Week, Kazakhstan Fashion Week, Festival «National Dress», Tashkent Fashion Perfomance, Bolajonlar-Shirintoylar - Republican Festival of children’s fashion, The Luxury Symposium 2019. New Delhi, India

SUGAR PLUM COUTURE Lush designer, headscarves, turbans and hijabs with complete couture streetwear and dresses to match. Particular attention is paid to detailing and the looks make use of rich textures like velvet and silk in an incredibly beautiful palette of colors. Sugar Plum Couture also offers worldwide shipping

ART

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

ART LOVER’S GUIDE

Text by Odina Ulugbekjanova

The visual arts are among the most pleasurable and authentic ways to get to know another culture. The peoples of Central Asia have always been known for their architectural skills and artistic talents, which are most sublimely manifested in the design and decoration of the region’s magnificent palaces, mausoleums and other religious and historical buildings. Visiting Uzbekistan’s fine monuments and galleries, you’ll quickly spot the main motifs that appear across Uzbek art and architecture: ornament, pattern (particularly geometric designs) and calligraphy. Islamic traditions prohibit the image of people and animals, so the masters honed their skills in abstract arts, bringing them almost to perfection. Later, a new type of Uzbek fine art appeared – the miniature: a type of teeny but brightly coloured, varnished painting that decorated the interiors of wealthy homes. Here we outline a few must-visit places for art lovers, from palaces to photo studios.

SITORAI MOKHI KHOSA PALACE Built by the Emir of Bukhara in the mid-19th century, the Sitorai Mokhi Khosa is one of the grandest buildings in all of Uzbekistan. A feast of latticework, ornamentation, stained glass and lavish interior decor, the palace is an incredible place to explore a variety of Uzbek arts and motifs. Today, the palace operates as a museum where you can see samples of palace furniture and household items, Chinese and Japanese porcelain and a collection of national clothing from the 19th century decorated with the famous Bukhara gold embroidery. The ornate interiors are the real showstoppers here, though. The Bukharian masters who built the palace were trained in Russia, so you’ll spot a mixture of Eastern and Western architecture and flourishes.

AUTOGRAPH ART GALLERY Located in the heart of Tashkent, this modern art gallery aims to support and amplify the incredible art being made in Uzbekistan today, and in particular to support the country’s young and emerging artists. To achieve this, Autograph showcases a huge cross-section of Uzbek modern art styles and mediums. The gallery’s main collection is a set of works by hereditary craftsmen that includes ceramics, silk carpets, suzani, jewellery, accessories and national clothing. Together this collection shows the wealth of Uzbekistan’s distinctive national crafts, all of which are made by hand using traditional, ancient methods. Autograph hosts regular public events, such as exhibitions. masterclasses and private views. More info: instagram.com/galleryart.uz

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STATE MUSEUM OF ARTS The main national art collection of Uzbekistan is held at the State Museum of Arts in Tashkent, and is one of the best ways for visitors to get acquainted with the expanse of Uzbek art. When it was founded in 1918, the museum’s collection included 100 works spanning the genres of art, including a sizeable collection of paintings and graphics, as well as sculpture, porcelain by Russian and Western European masters. Most of the original works were drawn from the collections of Prince Romanov as well as other private art collectors of that time, and became the foundation of the national collection after the Soviet revolution and Uzbek independence. This fine collection has grown extensively over the years, and now includes important works by Uzbek artists as well as those from the Turkestan Museum of Local Lore and special exhibitions from museums in Moscow and St Petersburg. More info: stateartmuseum.uz/en

There is also a guesthouse offering accommodation and pottery-making masterclasses. Master ceramicist Alisher Nazirov has been crafting pottery since he was 12 years old, and now passes his skills on to his apprentices.

BONUM FACTUM Part art gallery, part residency, part event space, BONUM FACTUM is contemporary art gallery in Tashkent. It aims to be a space that fosters new work and open discussion on issues of contemporary art and education in Uzbekistan, and how to elevate and market Uzbek art internationally. It also houses a unique photo archive of the historical and cultural heritage of Uzbekistan. BONUM FACTUM is located in a very unique space: the renovated basement of a former orthopedic hospital that once served as its bomb shelter. Covering 800 square metres, the gallery consists of three exhibition halls, a press room and photo studio. More info: en.bonum-factum.net

RISHTAN: GLAZED CERAMICS The village of Rishtan, 50km west of Fergana, has been famous for its unique pottery since the 13th century. Rishtan pottery stands out for the richness of its decorative elements, which are predominantly blue shades. This unique blue glaze, known as ishkor, is produced by hand from natural mineral pigments and local plants. The ceramics themselves are crafted from a red clay that is only found in the surrounding area, giving this pottery a very special look not found elsewhere. Local ceramic artists have been passing the tricks of the trade down from generation to generation here. There are a number of ceramics workshops in Rishtan, the most well-known of which is the Alisher Nazirov ceramic studio.

LANDSCAPE

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Uzbekistan

THROUGH FOUR SEASONS Text by Kamola Makhmudkhodjaeva

Uzbekistan is a rich country; rich in hospitable people, thousand-year history, centuries-old culture and lively traditions. But what attracts tourists to the country at any time of the year? Each season in Uzbekistan offers something different: a panoramic view of a vast landscape, a joyful cultural festival, or a special dish filled with ingredients only available at that time of year. Kamola Makhmudkhodjaeva takes us on a journey through Uzbekistan in all four seasons..

Winter We begin our excursion to sunny Uzbekistan in the winter season. Sometimes it seems like people who have never visited Uzbekistan are misinformed, thinking that it is always hot and there is no snow. Deserts are just one landscape of Uzbekistan, but in the eastern mountain ranges, there is snow galore. Winter here is best spent enjoying many ski resorts, such as Amirsoy Mountain Resort and Chimgan. Skiing, snowboarding, sledding,

snow shoeing or just warming up in a hot tub away from the hustle and bustle of the city are just a few of the options. Uzbekistan’s ski resorts are top-notch, comparable with any European or North American resorts, but of course with a particular and unique Uzbek spin. And there are fewer visitors in the winter, making this an ideal time to really get away from it all.

Spring Beautiful spring. It's a time to take a walk and enjoy blooming trees and flowers, to get acquainted with local sights in fair weather and to discover something fresh in the newness of a budding year. Spring is a very popular time to visit Uzbekistan, which is not surprising as there is plenty to see in this season. This is the most popular time to organise exhibitions: local street parties where you can browse and buy handmade national clothing, accessories, crafts and art. Perfect for a springtime wander. And, of course, we can’t talk about spring in Uzbekistan without mentioning the most important national holiday: Navruz. The traditional Persion New Year, this holiday is celebrated annually on March 21 across Central Asia, and heralds the arrival of spring. Uzbeks go all-out for Navruz celebrations, with feasts, sporting events, family gatherings and performances. Many people dress up in national costumes. The traditional food to eat during Navruz is sumalak, a festive delicacy of wheat-grain made into a porridge and typically eaten with bread and tea. Sumalak is an ancient dish surrounded by lore; one tradition is to throw a few pebbles into the pot. According to legend, whoever gets a stone in their bowl will soon find happiness. In addition to sumalak, a whole array of national dishes is prepared for Navruz, making spring a particularly good time for foodies to experience Uzbekistan.

LANDSCAPE

Summer Summer is the best time of the year to explore the mountains of Uzbekistan, which offer beautiful views, cooler weather and a variety of outdoor activities, such as hiking and horse riding. Summer is also the season for Uzbekistan’s culinary gold stars: its fresh fruits and vegetables. Uzbek produce is mainly grown organically and eaten fresh from the vine. Though well-endowed with the gamut of fruits, from berries and peaches to grapes and pears, the most beloved of Uzbekistan’s harvest are its melons. Nowhere else in the world will you eat honeydew melon,

cantaloupe and watermelon so juicy and ripe. Visitors come to Uzbekistan in summer just taste them, and it’s really worth it. The best places to shop for fresh summer produce is in the bazaars (local markets), where you can buy fruits and local sweets such as halva, a crunchy, sweet treat made from seeds or nuts. Visiting Uzbekistan in the summer offers a full picture of local life, as people are out on the streets, shopping, cooking, taking in performances and enjoying the long, warm summer days. A good way to dive deeper into Uzbek life is to arrange a tour to a rural farm. There are many just outside Tashkent, where you can tour the farm, meet the farmers and learn about rural life.

Autumn

Year-Round

And so we come to the most mysterious time of the year: autumn. The fall is the best time of year to enjoy Uzbekistan’s natural beauty. The heat of summer has subsided but the cold winter winds haven’t yet picked up, and the leaves and plants are flourishing into their fall colours. Autumn is the best time to see the main sights of Uzbekistan: the Silk Road monuments are particularly beautiful under crisp, blue skies, and there are fewer visitors at these hotspots than during the summer. In Tashkent, a number of outdoor parks and gardens offer respite from the busy city, including the Botanical Garden, the Japanese Garden, the central parks and the Ankhor Canal. Autumn is also the harvest season, and the perfect time to sample Uzbekistan’s lesser known wine culture. A variety of wine tours are organised in autumn, which offer the chance to not only sample local wines, but also see how they are made.

There are plenty of things to do all year-round in Uzbekistan, such as visiting the ancient cities of Bukhara and Samarkand, and checking out museums, exhibitions and sporting events. One year-round highlight in Tashkent is the TV Tower. The country’s tallest building at 375m, it offers beautiful views of the whole city all year-round. Likewise, sampling Uzbekistan’s cuisine is a year-round favourite, and there are seasonal dishes to taste throughout the year. No matter what time of year you’ve chosen to visit. There is so much to see and do all through the year, you’ll have to come back to experience Uzbekistan in every season!

HERITAGE

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

U Z B E K I S TA N

CROSSROADS OF RELIGIONS

Dmitriy Kostyushkin is Programme Officer-Translator at the UNESCO-supported International Institute for Central Asian Studies and is an Academic Guide for Veres-Vert Travel Company. In this new series, Dmitriy takes an in-depth look at Uzbekistan’s rich religious history and cultural legacy.

Crossroads of Religions

long with traditional Islam, the remnants of ancient beliefs and religions continue to be preserved by Uzbek people. We can learn a lot about ancient religion through ritual objects, such as amulets, which were part of traditional costumes or were used in various rituals associated with marriage, childbirth, raising children and funeral rites. Whispers of old belief systems – totemism, animism, fetishism, magic, the cult of nature and others – are still found throughout Uzbekistan. These will be covered in future instalments in this series, which will run throughout 2021. With this series, I will paint a broad picture of the many religious beliefs that have shaped what is now Uzbekistan. We will discover the historical and cultural developments and heritage of seven religious traditions: the ancient religions, ZoroastrianismMazdeism, Manichaeism, Buddhism, Judaism, Christianity and Islam. This is not a simple task, for the religious heritage across the vast territory of modern-day Uzbekistan includes a great many doctrines across epic lengths of time, huge distances and disparate cultural groups. It would be impossible to cover every

ravelling around Uzbekistan, an attentive tourist can’t help but notice the country’s great historical and spiritual heritage. It is one that has been created and passed on by many people over several millennia. In 2001, UNESCO gave old Samarkand World Heritage status under the label ‘Samarkand – Crossroads of Cultures’, encompassing three parts of the historical city: the archaeological site of Afrasiab, the medieval Timurid Old Town and the European colonial part of the city. And indeed, it was culture in all its manifestations – a centuriesold set of cross-cultural processes – rather than wars or international trade along the Silk Road, that positively created and developed the essence of the grand cities in the historical area that covers modern-day Uzbekistan. As a tour guide, I know from experience that not all visitors to sunny Uzbekistan are interested in the religions and beliefs that have left their mark on the country’s cultural and traditional life. At the same time, most international visitors are wowed by our colourful embroideries and brightly-painted ceramics, often asking about the meaning and origins of the decorative symbols and ornamental motifs used in Uzbek folk art and architecture. Many of these motifs have deep religious roots. For example, amulets originally had religious and magical uses, but later came to play an aesthetic role, and became everyday and celebratory adornments in the 19th century.

spiritual teaching and theological and academic detail of these faiths. Instead, this series will offer a broad overview of the main religions that have left their mark on Uzbekistan’s culture, in particular their spiritual and historical developments and their rich contributions to Uzbek traditions and arts, to familiarise visitors to Uzbekistan with the beliefs that have shaped this ancient and mysterious land.

Worship of Fire

ne of the first religions we will cover is Zoroastrianism, which was generally adopted and used by the populations of historical states like Khorezm (currently the Khorezm province of the Republic of Uzbekistan) and Sogd (the Zeravshan and Kashkadarya valleys of Uzbekistan).

Traditionally, but not entirely correctly, the Zoroastrians are called ‘fire worshipers’, and indeed fire and all the other elements of nature – water, air, earth and its derivatives – were symbols of purity, purification and liberation from defilement for the Zoroastrians. They attached exceptional importance and meaning to the vital forces of nature and man, to physical

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purity: all evil is an element of the forces of darkness and evil. Therefore, it was necessary to beware impurity, illness and death. There was also a specific burial rite so that the corpses of the deceased (a symbol of impurity) would not come into contact with the pure elements (water, earth, fire, plants and metal). The corpse was removed from the city to be consumed by wild animals and birds, after which the bones were collected in special ceramic boxes called ossuaries, and only then were buried in the ground. Though this funeral tradition has long gone out of practice, the archaeological remains of dahma (ancient places for laying out corpses) and their burial (naus), as well as a large number of ossuary finds are common around Khorezm, Bukhara, Samarkand and other regions. Though the rituals and ceremonies of Zoroastrianism have all but disappeared, many popular Uzbek traditions are in keeping with its ideas about purity and attention to the forces of nature, and Zoroastrian motifs are found all over Uzbek arts. For example, some species of animals were also highly respected – images of cows, horses, dogs and other domestic and wild animals are present in ancient paintings in the palaces of the Sogdian rulers in Afrasiab (Samarkand) and Varakhsha (Bukhara).

Spread of Buddhism

he influence of Buddhist art can be found in almost all historical and cultural regions of Uzbekistan. Protectionist support from the Kushan kingdom (1st-4th centuries) played a great role in the spread of Buddhism, but trade was the most important factor. The Silk Road was not just a trade route, it was a river of cultural exchange, as craftsmen, artists, musicians, painters and missionaries travelled its length. Immigrants also played a huge role in the spread of Buddhism: second- and third-generation immigrants from Central Asia are closely associated with trade circles that settled in India.

Chinese historical chronicles detail numerous Buddhist missionaries, whose names have clear Bactrian, Yuezhi and Sogdian origins. Natives of Sogd, Bactria and Parthia took Buddhism and Buddhist artistry to China, translated Buddhist sutras into Chinese and helped build temples. We also know from historical records and archaeological finds that Buddhism was practiced in Sogd and Chach (modern-day Tashkent region). Research and excavations by Soviet, Uzbek and international scholars indicate Buddhism was centred in the south of Uzbekistan, namely Termez, from where it spread west across Central Asia. It even reached East Turkestan, where diverse Buddhist sites and complex architectural structures have been found, most of which belong to the Kushan era (from the mid1st century to the mid-3rd century, Buddhism was patronised by the Kushans, extending to China and the Far East via the Silk Road). Early Christianity likewise has deep historical roots. It arrived in Central Asia by the beginning of the 3rd century, and already in the 5th-7th centuries had its own thriving centres in many large

cities, like Samarkand. For now, most of the archaeological artifacts associated with these religions are kept in museums. Visitors who want a more tangible and exciting introduction should visit Old Termez, where you can get up close to excavated Buddhist monasteries and stupas where Greco-Bactrian cultures interacted with Buddhist traditions of India. Likewise, take a trip to the mountain village of Urgut near Samarkand to visit the archaeological site of a 6th century Nestorian monastery.

Meeting of Many Beliefs

urther articles in this series will cover the history of the Jewish communities of the Bukhara Emirate, and offer advice on which ancient and modern synagogues to visit across the country. We will also look into the modern history of Christianity, which was revived in the region in the second half of the 19th century, after it became a part of the Russian empire. We’ll take a walk through Samarkand, a stroll along a single street passes by a Russian-Orthodox cathedral, a Roman Catholic church and an Armenian-Gregorian church.

As for the most widespread and practiced religion in the Republic of Uzbekistan – Islam – we will focus on the mystical pathways of this vast faith. We’ll pay special attention to Sufism, which was practically destroyed during the atheistic Soviet period and revived after independence, especially in Bukhara, where the veneration of the ‘Seven Sufi PirsTeachers’ is especially strong. As the author of this series, ‘Uzbekistan – Crossroads of Religions’, I look forward to meeting readers on the pages of Visit Uzbekistan. As a representative of Veres-Vert, I eagerly welcome visitors to my hometown, Samarkand, where you’ll be awakened by the sound of Orthodox church bells, look out of your hotel and see the shining cross of the Catholic church on the horizon over the windows of the old synagogue with the image of Magen David, while from the side of the Old City the muezzin calls faithful Muslims to morning prayer.

VISA-FREE

UZBEKISTAN A VISA-FREE ENTRY REGIME APPLIES TO CITIZENS OF AZERBAIJAN REPUBLIC GEORGIA REPUBLIC OF ARMENIA REPUBLIC OF BELARUS REPUBLIC OF KAZAKHSTAN REPUBLIC OF MOLDOVA RUSSIAN FEDERATION UKRAINE UP TO 60 DAYS: KYRGYZ REPUBLIC UP TO 30 DAYS: AUSTRALIAN UNION AUSTRIAN REPUBLIC THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA VATICAN THE GRAND DUCHY OF LUXEMBOURG HUNGARY BRUNEI DARUSSALAM STATE THE STATE OF ISRAEL GREEK REPUBLIC IRELAND ICELAND ITALIAN REPUBLIC CANADA PRINCE OF ANDORRA PRINCE OF LIECHTENSTEIN PRINCE OF MONACO THE KINGDOM OF BELGIUM KINGDOM OF DENMARK THE KINGDOM OF SPAIN KINGDOM OF THE NETHERLANDS THE KINGDOM OF NORWAY THE KINGDOM OF SWEDEN LATVIAN REPUBLIC LITHUANIAN REPUBLIC MALAYSIA MONGOLIA NEW ZEALAND UNITED ARAB EMIRATES PORTUGUESE REPUBLIC REPUBLIC OF BULGARIA REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA REPUBLIC OF CYPRUS REPUBLIC OF KOREA REPUBLIC OF MALTA REPUBLIC OF POLAND REPUBLIC OF CAN-MARINO REPUBLIC OF SERBIA REPUBLIC OF SLOVENIA REPUBLIC OF TAJIKISTAN REPUBLIC OF CROATIA REPUBLIC OF CHILE ROMANIA SINGAPORE SLOVAK REPUBLIC UNITED KINGDOM OF GREAT BRITAIN AND NORTHERN IRELAND TURKISH REPUBLIC FEDERATIVE REPUBLIC OF BRAZIL FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY FINNISH REPUBLIC FRENCH REPUBLIC MONTENEGRO CZECH REPUBLIC SWISS CONFEDERATION ESTONIAN REPUBLIC JAPAN ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA BARBADOS BELIZE GRENADA DOMINICAN REPUBLIC MEXICAN UNITED STATES REPUBLIC OF GUATEMALA REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS REPUBLIC OF COSTA RICA REPUBLIC OF CUBA REPUBLIC OF NICARAGUA REPUBLIC OF PANAMA REPUBLIC OF TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO REPUBLIC OF EL SALVADOR ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES ST. LUCIA COMMONWEALTH OF THE BAHAMAS COMMONWEALTH OF DOMINICA FEDERATION OF ST. KITTS AND NEVIS JAMAICA PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF CHINA, INCLUDING THE HONG KONG SPECIAL ADMINISTRATIVE REGION OF THE PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF CHINA. IN ADDITION, CITIZENS OF 53 COUNTRIES CAN TRANSIT UZBEKISTAN FOR UP TO 5 DAYS WITHOUT A VISA AND CITIZENS OF 86 CAN APPLY FOR E-VISA FOR A LONGER STAY.

E-visa: The government of Uzbekistan provides simplified Visa-Free Transit: Passport holders of 54 E-visa regime for the citizen of 77 countries and a 5-day visacountries who are transiting by airplane, can free transit opportunity for 54 countries. An electronic visa is get a 5-day visa-free stay showing an onward issued for 30 days, is single or multiple entries and valid for 90 boarding pass. Foreign citizens can benefit days from the date of its issuance. To obtain E-visa, a traveler from a 5-day visa-free transit procedure upon should apply on evisa.mfa.uz at least three working days before arrival at the international airports of Uzbekithe planned date of arrival to Uzbekistan. E-visa will be issued stan. Passengers need to provide an air-ticket within two working days excluding the day of application. The to the third country and the carrier should issued E-visa is sent to the e-mail of the applicant. The amount inform the border authorities of Uzbekistan of the consular fee is $20 for single entry, $35 for double about passengers who are eligible for transit entry and $50 for multiple entries. Payment for E-visa can visa-free entry. The list of foreign countries be made online from any bank card. An electronic visa is not applicable to visa-free transit stay continues attached to a travel document (passport). When crossing the to expand. You can check the latest data on: border, a foreign citizen provides an electronic visa in paper or mfa.uz electronic form.

BOOK

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People make the place: Visit Uzbekistan’s art tour of Bukhara Visit Uzbekistan magazine and the Bukhara regional government together recently organised a unique experience tour to the ancient city in November 2020. The trip offered an immersive experience in Bukhara’s rich culture and local ways of life and left a lasting impression on everyone who participated. Here are some of the highlights.

A number of events were held in Bukhara for the trip, including: •

• • • •

An introduction to master craftsman Akbar Khakimov’s private collection of suzani and textiles and a masterclass on cooking Bukhara-style pilaf in his home The opening of an exhibition of contemporary art in an 18th century Jewish house project of Bonum Factum Gallery A fashion show held on the roof top of Minorai-Kalon Hotel showcasing designers from Bukhara and Tashkent An exhibition of miniatures at master miniaturist Davlat Toshev’s art school A special visit to the Bukhara Cotton Textile factory.

From the Participants Anna Martusevich – Russia “This was the most extraordinary trip to Bukhara that I have ever participated in. I was able not only to dive into the history and get in touch with the heritage of the ancestors, but also experience modern art. We experienced real, genuine life in Bukhara and felt the indescribable spirit of the city. I especially remember seeing Akbar Khakimov's private collection in his house, the stories that reflect a broad outlook of such a unique person and his vast experience. I was drawn to the charisma of the miniaturist, Davlat Toshev. Despite the fact that I prefer painting, his work changed my outlook. These miniatures are deeply imbued with the philosophy of wisdom about beauty, good and evil, and eternal values. Of course, people make the place. I got a boost of energy, warmth and inspiration after meeting the wonderful people of Bukhara.”

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Ruta Mackeviciute – Lithuania To be honest, I’m not a huge fan of organised tours and usually travel on my own. But I decided to join this trip because Bukhara is my favorite city in Uzbekistan and I couldn‘t resist a chance to go there again. This was my sixth trip to Bukhara! The experience I had on this tour was completely different from my previous visits. It was wonderful to see Jewish houses given a new lease on life through either traditional or contemporary arts and friendly hosts, and new production lines – it all fascinated me. But what really touched my heart was the opening of the exhibition of Mr. Davlat Toshev. You definitely should see how passionately his students presented the stories captured in their works, and how passionate Mr. Davlat himself is about the work he’s been doing for the past 30 years! It's amazing. I'm already saving up to buy a couple of works that have stuck into my soul – I’m eager to support this school. And last but not the least: during the tour I met two fantastic businesswomen – Dinara and Marhamat. I was really impressed with how they’ve built their business in the tough conditions, and found a new ways to be current and creative. I really look forward to further experiences and am excited to contribute to the projects they are doing as much as I can.”

Olga selminskaya – Russia “We visited interesting and unusual places in Bukhara. I really liked the art residence and the exhibition of contemporary artists, especially the Windows of Bukhara painting series. An art residence is somewhere that contemporary artists live together in a communal space and jointly produce creative work in onsite workshops. We got to see the house itself: an old 18th century house that belonged to a Jewish entrepreneur. I was also impressed with the visit to a factory where jeans are made. That was the first time I’d ever seen the entire production chain in one place, from the harvested cotton to the output and packaging of finished products. I was delighted. I'd be happy to visit another city in Uzbekistan and then re-discover it all over again.”

Karolina, Constantia and Modestas Kazukauskaite – Lithuania “We will be back again—this is the best description of our experience! The heritage and the lifestyle of this city are very deep and versatile. You can return to Bukhara again and again and discover something new every time.”

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Zhanar Sagimbayeva – Kazakhstan “It was a very unique, cheerful and homey experience. This was my second trip to Bukhara. This time city was not so crowded with tourists; it was very quiet. I would like as many people as possible to see the beauty of this city, its vibrant energy, its architecture and its heritage. Let them admire it as much as I did. On the other hand, if you’re able to be alone with Bukhara, the city opens up as if only for you. You realise the value of this world with even a short time in this atmosphere. I was impressed with the exhibition of miniatures. In my opinion, this type of exhibition defines the future of this city. Bukhara is famous for its crafts and it’s nice to see that young people are studying and continuing to create masterpieces today. There are some very contemporary miniatures that reflect the thoughts, ideas, worries and inspirations of young people today. I also loved visiting the the house in the Jewish quarter of Bukhara, where we saw an exhibition of contemporary art. Markhamat Umarova's fashion show on the rooftop really showed off the unique local fabrics and the creativity of the designers, as well as the ancient arts of gold embroidery other types of handmade work. I would love to have these pieces in my wardrobe. And also I would have taken unique silk carpets with me. My son who travelled with me really liked the Damascus steel knives.”

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Megan Fraser – Australia “When I arrived in Uzbekistan in January this year, I was looking forward to exploring the historical cities of the Great Silk Road such as Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. Unfortunately, since the quarantine was on, I had to postpone my plans. Therefore, the opportunity to spend a weekend in Bukhara immediately inspired me. I loved walking around the old town, close to the caravanserais and to feel the spirit of history. I imagined how travellers of ancient times passed along these ways. I also was quite surprised to learn that Bukhara has such a thriving artistic community. I especially enjoyed seeing the beautiful miniature artworks of Davlat Toshev. My sister is an artist and I instantly thought that she should see this. I look forward to the day when I can explore more of the country in all its glory.”

Maryze Bolou – France “This was my second visit to this amazing city. I was astonished by the authenticity of people's daily lives, which seemed to me full of deep meaning. I really felt surrounded by an atmosphere of hospitality, warmth and peace. Bukhara is definitely worth visiting more than twice.”

Dinara Dultaeva is the Editor-in-Chief of Visit Uzbekistan magazine, and was the visionary behind this project. “The quarantine made us all look at many things more deeply, more consciously. To think about who we want to be and what's left after all. Life is very short and unpredictable. In 2020 I began to travel more around Uzbekistan and become more aware of the depth and diversity of our regions. I wanted to share these discoveries and offer travellers a contemporary view of these places, as well as create an opportunity for real immersion. This year has pushed us to turn to domestic tourism more than in years past, when – with the support of our embassies – we held presentations of Uzbekistan abroad. This time, we decided to create a series of Visit Uzbekistan issues dedicated to the country’s diverse regions. We wanted to create a new impetus for boosting tourist flows and developing domestic tourism. Through our magazine, through the invitation of guests and the organisation of unique events.

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VISIT UZBEKISTAN’S EXPERIENCE TOUR OF KHIVA IN WINTER Text by Islyam Kabirov

Ancient Khiva charms and attracts guests all year round. The city is particularly popular with international expats who already live and work in Uzbekistan. After our successful tour to Bukhara (see p.46), Visit Uzbekistan together with the Khokimiyat (Provincial Administration) of the Khorezm region, organised a second tour to this historical city, which lies in the far west of Uzbekistan. Travellers had the opportunity to immerse themselves in the history, culture, art, gastronomy and way of life of the Khorezm people. Winter provided a special atmosphere for the tour and made the warm hospitality of local residents even more cordial. The experiential tour of Khiva included: -Visiting workshops for the production of Khiva’s famous chugirma (sheepskin hats), as well as papier-mâché dolls and intricate local wood carvings. -Cooking classes, including baking traditional flatbread and uniquely Khorezm dishes such as tukhum barak (dumplings) and shivit oshi (dill-infused noodles). -A visit to Karakol Lake, with a tasting of local fish. -Dinner in a local’s historic home, with a masterclass in lyazgi, the Khorezm dance, conducted by a family ensemble. -An atmospheric tour of the historic Itchan Kala (old town), as well as access to the private rooms of the Nurulla Bai, the summer palace of the Khiva khans.

Vera Afonina

From The Participants ALENA PUSHKAREVA, Andrey Pushkarev and Ksenia Pushkareva – Russia “This was undoubtedly an interesting experience for us. Uzbekistan continues to open itself up and truly amaze. Khiva, on the one hand, seemed unusually cold and unusually free of tourists. On the other hand, its rich history, local traditions and folk crafts will probably draw us back to this northern part of Central Asia. I would like to learn even more about family traditions that have historically developed in this region, more about unique crafts, meet interesting people, etc.”

Kirill Sorokin – Russia “There are a lot of ancient monuments in Khiva, and wonderful, interesting, authentic architecture. What seemed special to me is that this architecture is designed for both extreme heat and extreme cold. There are a lot of open locations; for sure there is something to see in the summer. Naturally, this is a huge piece of cultural heritage for the whole of Uzbekistan. The Khiva Khanate left a big mark on history. We also had wonderful masterclasses on cooking ‘poached eggs in dough’ (tukhum barak), ‘green spaghetti’ (shivit oshi) and Khorezm flatbread. We are very glad that we were able to see the historical sights and we definitely want to come back.”

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Vera Afonina – Russia “Most of all I liked the architecture inside the Itchan Kala fortress and the fact that they managed to preserve the atmosphere of the city, which consists of small streets. It is not for nothing that the fortress is included on the UNESCO Intangible Heritage List. Everything is very authentic and you can immediately imagine how in the past it was all lively and flourished in bright colours. This is rare now, living in large cities, but sometimes you want to feel something real, for the soul. And from the kitchen we liked the ‘green spaghetti’ and the fact that we didn’t eat many dishes either in Bukhara or Tashkent, and that there were a lot of vegetables.”

Feruz Rustamov, photographer – Uzbekistan “I have been to Khiva many times, but this time I learned and saw a lot of new things. The Visit Uzbekistan experiential tour mixed up visits to museums with fascinating masterclasses on cooking the most unusual local dishes, where we could not only watch and taste, but also feel like cooks. There were also many other interesting masterclasses, for example, on making traditional hats or dolls. The tour was intense but at the same time did not tire us at all. We even managed to go out into nature to see a picturesque frozen lake and ducks walking on the ice, which became a separate event for me as a photographer. Special thanks for the incredibly delicious lunches and dinners. Khorezm hospitality is unique.”

Ruta Makareviciute – Lithuania “I have been in Khiva several times, and everytime the temperature was over 20°C. Since it is almost an open-air treasure of Uzbekistan, during these visits it was great to hang out and enjoy the views of ancient culture. This time it was completely different: it was hitting -10°C or so, and this naturally helped me understand several elements of the local culture: why the fresh hot bread coming from tandyr (oven) is so delicious, why fur hats and mittens are still made locally and sold everywhere (I acquired both), and why at the end of the day you want to dance lyazgi to warm up. I strongly recommend experiencing this: family traditions of this heritage are more than alive. And to those who want to be fit all the time, you can have a brisk walk or run around the Itchan Kala in the morning, when the sun rises and the views are amazing. It’s 3km long.”

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Shahzoda Abdukodirova – Uzbekistan “Having visited such famous cities of Uzbekistan as Bukhara and Samarkand, I have long dreamed of visiting the mysterious Khiva. I was deeply impressed by the history of this city and its hospitable people. Considering that I am Uzbek, I still felt that I was in an unknown place, which pleasantly amazed me every moment in different ways. Despite the air temperature, which dropped to -14°C, we all happily walked along the narrow streets of Khiva and enjoyed its beauty. I also remember very much how I climbed the Islam Khodja minaret, and it was really worth it, since it opens onto the most magnificent view of the city.”

Modestas Kaseliauskas – Lithuania “In Khiva, I was surprised that, since ancient times, the city has been entirely preserved within the boundaries of the ancient walls, and not just individual monuments! I was also struck that this is a ‘city of the sun’ and its cultural roots go back to the time of Zoroastrianism. We have proved that you can visit Khiva in winter as well, but you need to dress properly and keep warm! It is also pleasant that this group of expats had already gotten to know each other well and enjoy learning Uzbekistan through personal experience. We are looking forward to new adventures with Visit Uzbekistan.”

GASTRONOMY

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GASTRONOMY AND DRINKS TRENDS FOR 2021

Text by Kamola Makhmudkhodjaeva

In recent years, Uzbekistan’s gastronomic scene has swapped out hearty traditional cuisine for simple and healthy foods. While the traditional calorie-rich, meat-heavy Central Asian dishes will always be available to travellers wanting to sample them, urban Uzbeks are increasingly looking for fresh, vegetable-forward, seasonal foods alongside healthy living and wellbeing trends. Restaurants in Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and many of Uzbekistan’s larger cities have adapted their menus to the country’s increasing numbers of international visitors, who in the past may have struggled to eat heavy Uzbek foods at every meal. If we dive into Central Asian history, though, we can see that healthy eating has always been part of the Uzbek lifestyle. Avicenna (Ibn Sino), whom many consider one of the founders of medical science, was a proponent of healthy eating, nutritional treatment and diet plans all the way back in 11th century. Chefs and foodies in Uzbekistan today are combining local tastes and traditions (and the available products and ingredients) with the principles of the global healthy eating movement. Here are some of our predictions for Uzbekistan’s culinary trends in 2021, and where to sample them.

Opt For Veg Today, vegetarian and vegan eating are gaining popularity all over the world, as people become more conscious of their diets and aware of the environmental and ethical repercussions of consuming animal products. The veg movement gained momentum in Uzbekistan when celebrities like DJ Piligrim (Ilkhom Yulchiev) started social media groups dedicated to vegetarian living, and entrepreneurs took risks to open the first health-food shops, such as Botanika (instagram.com/ botanicauz) and Bob’s Red Mill (instagram.com/bobsredmilluz). Some of the restaurants traditionally popular among tourists and expats were the first to jump on the vegetarian-friendly wagon. In Tashkent, Jumanji (instagram.com/jumanji.uz), Caravan (caravangroup.uz) and April Verdant (instagram. com/april.verdant.restaurant) were among the pioneers. In Samarkand, Platan (instagram.com/platansamarkand) and newcomer Oasis Garden (instagram.com/oasisgarden.uz) have led the way, while Minzifa (Khujarushnoy str. 6) is the most well-known veg-friendly spot in Bukhara. Vegetarian diners no longer have to skip out on sampling traditional Uzbek cuisine either. A new generation of chefs have experimented with creating vegetarian versions of local specialties. One of the best places to sample vegetarian plov is at the Hyatt Regency’s Khiva restaurant. Modern Central Asian restaurants Khan Chapan (instagram.com/khan.chapan) and Aksu (instagram.com/aksu.uz) also both offer vegetarian options of traditional dishes.

Veg-friendly international dining – Tashkent Griliaj – Georgian (instagram.com/griliajrest) Obi Hayot – Azeri (instagram.com/obi__hayot) Guru Tanduri – Indian (instagram.com/Guru.Tandoori.uz) Basilic – Mediterranean fine dining (basilic.uz) di Gavi – Upmarket international (facebook.com/ digavirestaurant) Nobile – Euro-Asian fusion (instagram.com/nobile.uz)

GASTRONOMY

Drinks Craze Designer coffee has arrived in Uzbekistan. The matcha latte is quickly replacing the old standby of coffee with cream, and several coffee shops in Tashkent are now combining upmarket hot drinks and creative menus, including B&B (instagram.com/ bnb.uz), Chaykof ( instagram.com/chaykoftashkent/), Black Bear Kofi (instagram.com/kofiuz). Trending drinks are natural and healthy: think freshly squeezed juices, collagen (protein) cocktails, plant-based milks (almond, oatmeal, coconut, soy and rice) and alcohol-free aperitifs. There are also a number of traditional drinks that never go out of style in Uzbekistan: look out for O’rik-sharbat (an apricot beverage) and black mulberry squeeze – two favourites.

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Since last year, more and more cafes and coffee shops specialising in healthy drinks (plus food) have opened:

Tashkent

Arrows & Sparrows (arrowsparrows.com) Sette Bar (Hyatt Regency Tashkent) Hygge Avocado & Coffee (instagram.com/hygge_deli) NEST (facebook.com/nestcoffeestore.uz) BREADLY (instagram.com/breadly_boulangerie) Dietka Cafe (facebook.com/cafe.dietka)

Outside the Capital

El-Merosi – Samarkand (facebook.com/ ElMerosiCoffeeHouse) Café Mazza – Bukhara (Arabon St., near Lyabi Hauz and Toqi Sarrofon trading dome) Traktir Ostrov Sokrovish – Fergana (facebook.com/ traktir.fergana)

Sweet Things What about desserts? Fashion trends have touched them, too, as every sweet treat must be not only delicious but beautiful enough to be splashed onto Instagram. Even so, there is a strong trend in Uzbekistan towards using natural ingredients, without sugar or edible dyes. Look out for cruffins – a cross between a croissant and a muffin – which have also become a big trend and are available in lots of cafes across Uzbekistan. Uzbek bakers and pastry chefs are eager to bring forward Michelin-level culinary design, while mixing it with the baked goodies that locals have always loved (and afforded). The most Insta-worthy places to spot (and indulge in) a beautiful dessert include A Cafe (instagram.com/cafetashkent), Kuranti Bar (instagram.com/kurantibar), CakeLab (cakelab.uz) and Pie Republic (instagram.com/pierepublicuz) in Tashkent; Risotto in Samarkand (Gagarin street 121a); and Ipak Yuli in Bukhara (facebook.com/ipakyoli).

Fish & Sushi Seafood is widely available around Uzbekistan. For exquisite fine dining, go to Humo Restaurant (instagram.com/ humorestaurantuz) by chef Juno Kondo or Vinaryba (instagram. com/vinariba) by Sanjar Maksudov. Sushi is also particularly popular: Teppanyaki (teppanyaki.uz) SUSHI TIME (sushi-time.uz) Yaponamama (yaponamama.uz) Sushi Master Tashkent (facebook.com/sushimaster.tashkent) In Khiva, there are a number of freshwater fish restaurants and teahouses, thanks to its proximity to the Amudarya River and several small lakes: try Karakul or Kharrot (ask your local guide or driver to take you there). Closer to Tashkent, the mountains

surrounding the capital are home to Khonbalik (‘King’s Fish’; facebook.com/xonbaliq), a teahouse in Tavaqsay village where you can catch your own freshwater trout or carp and have it cooked up fresh.

Organic Products In Uzbekistan, too, the popularity of organic food is gaining momentum. Since people began to pay more attention to their health, appearance and nutrition. Naturally, there is a need for stores specializing in organic products. In Tashkent, there are already stores such as Almond @the_ almond_organic_place, Botanica @botanicauz, Organic Food @bobsredmilluz, where you can buy delicious and healthy organic products and ready-made pastries.

The first VEGAN cafe in Tashkent Brand new opening for Tashkent gastro life is the first vegan café, run by local entrepreneur Pavel Wolf and Leon Felekyan. Eco Café is a unique, new business which offers eating in, delivery and take away, as a grocery shop.

“There is no meat, milk, eggs, gluten or sugar in our dishes, says Pavel Wolf, the CEO of Eco Café. - Our dishes are not just healthy food they are like state of the art for us. Because the stomach is our second brain, so what we feed it with is what we get - in the form of thoughts and feelings”. “Our dishes are, first of all, filled with love, and the experience of our Michelin-star chef helps to create exquisite combinations of flavors. We do not prepare ready-to-cook ingredients, all food is prepared from fresh products and from scratch”. At Eco Café you can not only eat tasty food, but also buy healthy products! Fresh supply of Wheatgrass and Spirulina from Ziteria. uz, for example. The very superfoods that help a lot with vitamin deficiency, increase energy, cleanse and fill the body with health. health

We asked Pavel to tell us about the philosophy behind the project. “My search of happiness led me to understanding that I happiness always was there in my heart. A chaotic mind, uncontrolled thoughts and emotions were distracting me from my true self. Among false belief was the one related to nutrition. Proper nutrition helps us to feel happy, that’s why many successful people, in order to maintain youth and health, refuse meat, sugar, eggs and gluten. They know that an excess of these products negatively affects the body, many scientific studies confirm this. So we decided to open a small island of joy and warmth in Tashkent called Eco Cafe, where there is a positive atmosphere, delicious dishes and interesting personalities with whom we meet and communicate every day’.

I recommend to start with lentil cream soup with coconut milk, for the second course try tender ravioli with mushrooms in tomato-cream sauce, and for the dessert – our signature carrot cake. Every day in our telegram channel Eco Cafe posts the menu of the dishes that you can order for the following day. In the menu you can find dishes made according to recipes from different parts of the world, even prominent Uzbek Oshi Sofi with no meat. Location: Mirzo-Ulugbek district, 1st passage Olmachi, 37/39. Telegram: +998946378337 @ecocafetashkent Telegram channel @vegancafeuz Instagram: @ecocafetashkent

PRESENTS ITS CREATORS’ COLLECTION OF JEWELLERY ART Following classic and heritage forms of jewellery-making, AUTOGRAPH Art Gallery’s group of talented designers has created this unusual and vivid collection, which is distinguished by high skill of execution and originality of the jewellers’ techniques and methods. Masters must cultivate a wide range of skills: metal smelting, casting, forging, engraving, embossing and creating their own materials, such as lace, enamel and niello (an inlay surface for engravings and etchings). The art of jewellery has always been of particular importance in Uzbekistan. Its origins go back millennia, and it has long occupied a key place in the cultural history of the nation. Not seen as just aesthetic adornment, jewellery could also serve spiritual purposes, for example as amulets worn by girls from a very young age, believed to provide protection from the evil eye and other types of misfortune. Jewellery continues to be an integral part of day-to-day clothing and national dress, and remains a relevant and important form

of cultural heritage in Uzbekistan today. In fact, this art is experiencing a revival, as interest in the unique styles of Uzbek jewellery grows every year, both at home and abroad. A younger generation of jewellers continues to learn and adapt historical methods, helping to preserve the knowledge and secrets of craftsmanship accumulated by artists over millennia. One of the most important features of Uzbek jewellery is its use of stone, a material that has always carried significant and often spiritual meaning. Natural stones are believed to serve as talismans or bring good luck. Silver, for example, is said to ward off evil spirits, provide protection from poison and symbolises purity. Pearls are believed to offer healing from serious illnesses and impart strength. Turquoise brings good luck in business, while carnelian bestows happiness. For this reason, stone plays a much more prevalent role in Uzbek jewellery than it does in other places.

INFO

AUTOGRAPH is committed to offering a wide variety of jewellery for all occasions, including festive and casual, classic and trendy, and ultra-luxurious. Many of the pieces in this collection feature uniquely Uzbek styles and patterns, including ikat, adras, bekasam (handmade handicraft fabrics) and natural stones. Each piece is a modern creation that embodies new ideas and transforms them into a unique and matchless work of art. And every piece is crafted from the highest quality materials, like noble silver, precious and semi-precious stones, natural pearl, mother of pearl and enamel. Jewellery can be a gift for someone special or a way to express ourselves. At AUTOGRAPH Art Gallery, we believe jewellery should be worn not only for holidays and special occasions, but everyday, from the office to a casual lunch with friends. That’s why our collection features a wide variety styles from festive and casual to classic and trendy and ultra-luxurious. The jewellery art of Uzbekistan continues to develop because of the painstaking and skilful work of talented makers. The traditions of our ancestors and the tremendous skills of modern jewellers give us delightful and unique adornments to wear for each of life’s moments.

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AUTOGRAPH ART GALLERY 1 house, Ataturk st., Mirabad district, Tashkent tel: (+998) 71 203 00 33 web: galleryart.uz

BEGIM PARFUM GALLERY 1. 7, Shahrisabz st., Yunusabad district, Tashkent tel: (+998) 71 233 84 84

HILTON TASHKENT CITY

2. “Samarqand Darvoza” mall 5A, Karatash st., Shaykhontohur district, Tashkent tel: (+998) 71 205 03 64

2 Islam Karimov Street, block 5 Tashkent, 100027, Uzbekistan tel: (+998) 71 210 88 88 web:hilton.com

3. “Kontinent” mall 2, Mirabad st., Yakkasaray district, Tashkent tel: (+998) 71 256 61 66 4. “Mega Planet” mall 2B, Ahmad Donish st., Yunusabad distict, Tashkent tel: (+998) 71 150 87 58 5. “Next” mall 6, Bobur st., Yakkasaray district, Tashkent tel: (+998) 71 230 75 34 6. “Compass” mall 17, Tashkent Ring Automobile Road, Mirabad District, Tashkent tel: (+998) 71 205 15 85 web: parfumgallery.uz

PASADO RESTAURANT & BAR

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT

Yusuf Khos Khodjib st., 72 (Yakkasaray district). tel: (+998) 71 215 50 44 web:pasado.uz

Kichik Beshyogoch Street 126 Tashkent, 100013 Uzbekistan tel: (+998) 71 202 23 33 web:marriott.com

SERENITY SPA st. Islam Karimov 2, block 5 tel: (+998) 71-210-88-95 https://www.facebook.com/ serenityspahiltontashkent/