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ISSUE NO. 113 |

12 MARCH – 25 MARCH 2014




Rp. 25.000





issue 113 indonesia expat



indonesia expat issue 113

issue 113 indonesia expat



Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership

Editor in Chief

Dear Readers,

Angela Richardson

front lines of climate change... It’s not an exaggeration to say to you that your entire way of life that you live and love is at risk.”

Editorial Assistant Gabriella Panjaitan

Management Edo Frese

Still in environmental news, Indonesia has been facing devastating forest fires in Riau Province of North Sumatra, with the National Disaster Mitigation Agency (BNPB) warning that the worst is yet to come. The Indonesian Forum for the Environment (WALHI) urged the government to clamp down on companies and financiers who were responsible for starting these fires, caused by primitive slashand-burn clearing techniques. The Forum stated that 117 companies, both local and international, like neighbouring Singapore, were responsible for the fires that had now spread to six provinces. Singapore responded by demanding to know the names of the Singaporean companies involved and the evidence against them. An ongoing hot topic, which many believe requires the support of ASEAN to be resolved.

Sales & Distribution Dian Mardianingsih Betty de Haan

Graphics Frederick Ng

IT FEELS LIKE only a few days ago that we entered 2014, and here we are in mid-March and already on our third issue as Indonesia Expat. Indonesia has not been quiet in international headlines since the turn of the New Year and continues to be a focus for many. Indonesia earned recognition as one of the four ‘MINT’ countries - Mexico, Indonesia, Nigeria and Turkey – said to be the emerging economic giants by the BBC’s Economist Jim O’Neill.

Finance & Admin Lini Verawaty Andre Fajar

Contributors Nithin Coca Gail G. Collins Bill Dalton Ken Dinsmore Paul Enrich David Metcalf Julian Lee Guy Nelson Qraved Francesco Ricciardi Hans Rooseboom Eamonn Sadler Kenneth Yeung

Editorial Enquiries

Circulation Enquiries



Last month we had a visit from US Secretary of State, John Kerry, urging Indonesia, the world’s third largest greenhouse gas emitter after China and the United States, to take steps to combat climate change before putting the nation’s resources at risk and damaging the economy. Kerry warned, “This city, this country, this region is really on the

In mining news, the controversial mineral export legislation came into effect in January this year. The law, which was enacted in 2009, requires miners to process

minerals inside Indonesia prior to export in a bid to boost jobs and the overall value of mineral exports. The law aims to boost domestic processing, however hardly anything was done since the enactment in 2009 in preparation for this change, leaving the country without the capacity to process the minerals with adequate smelters and refineries, all of which also require powering and are oftentimes in hard-to-reach places. The $US6 billion annual mineral export trade virtually ceased overnight after the ban came into effect, threatening hundreds of thousands of jobs. Indonesia is the largest exporter of nickel ore, refined tin and thermal coal, supplying around 16% of the world market in bauxite, exporting a major amount of copper, gold, iron, zinc, titanium and manganese. It is reported that Japan is preparing to take Indonesia to the World Trade Organisation to test if the export ban violated WTO rules and Indonesia’s export revenues are expected to drop by about 10 trillion Rupiah ($833 million) this year. Also in recent headlines, last month saw the release on parole of Schapelle Corby, who spent nine years in Kerobokan prison in Bali on charges of smuggling 4.2 kilograms of marijuana into Indonesia in 2005, which she

has always denied. Her parole conditions stipulate that she must not cause unrest and leave Indonesia until 2017, of which during this time she could be detained again to complete her sentence. Currently, the Indonesian government is evaluating whether an interview given by Schapelle’s sister Mercedes for an Australian documentary could revoke her parole and see her thrown back in prison. In entertainment news, Joshua Oppenheimer’s The Act of Killing, a documentary that challenges former Indonesian death squad leaders to re-enact the murders they committed in Indonesia’s anti-communist purge of 1965 1966, was nominated for an Oscar under the Best Documentary category, but unfortunately did not win. Oppenheimer wasn’t disheartened however, saying, "Whether or not we won the award, the nomination led the government to acknowledge what happened was wrong.” As many people say, there’s never a dull moment living in Indonesia! I hope you enjoy this issue of Indonesia Expat.

Angela Richardson Editor in Chief

Published by PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia Jl. Kemang Raya No. 29A Kemang, Jakarta,Indonesia Phone: 021 7179 4550 Fax: 021 7179 4546 Office hours: 09.00 – 17.00 Monday – Friday



DEAR ANGELA, (In response to The Smoking Issue #112) I have a very simple response: no government or any other authority should have the right to tell us what we are allowed or not allowed to do as far as food consumption, alcohol, cigarettes and even the use of drugs are concerned. All those fanatical anti-of-something people will of course also die of something. I don't think their fanatical (although well meant)

attitudes are in line with the basic human rights. Perhaps the world should not only have an International Court to handle war crimes, etc. It may even be more important to protect ourselves against anybody trying to dictate our lifestyles. Whether this is for the better or worse should be the choice of the individual and no one else. Rainer Koehl

Connect with Us The Cover A Contemplative Buddha at Borobudur Temple Pictured by Angela J. Richardson Location: Borobudur, Jogjakarta


indonesia expat issue 113

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Issue 113


06 06

13 Featured For Japan: Our Sister Looking Back at How Indonesia Responded to Japan's Tohoku Earthquake


Meet the Jakarta Expat Dr. Titus Leber


Meet the Jogjakarta Expat Camille Massard Combe


Travel Soroako, South Sulawesi Home of Indonesia's Deepest Lake


Faces of Indonesia Siti: The Dayak Dancer


Food and Drink Stockroom Dishes


Music The Gamelan Group: All Nationalities, Ages and Motives Welcome


Lifestyle Path vs Facebook: How Indonesia's Present is the World's Social Media Future


Business Profile Rick Creamer: Owner of Rick's Pub Crawl

27 16

Business Advice Indonesia Expat Entrepreneur


Property Watch Hotel Trends 2014


Health The Physical and Emotional Connections of the Five Vital Organs


Scams in The City Cheating on the Buses


Conservaiion The Surabaya Zoo: "The Zoo of Death" A Concentration Camp for Animals


Light Entertainment The Thin Light Blue Line

24 26

Announcements Events



Festival Java Jazz 2014: A Decade of Jazz


28 30

Classifieds Business Directory PT ARIPA MAKMUR PERSADA Graha Aktiva (American Express Building) 4 th Floor, Suite 405, Jl. H. R. Rasuna Said, Kuningan, Jakarta 12950 - Indonesia

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for japan: our sister Looking Back at How Indonesia Responded to Japan’s Tohoku Earthquake By Julian C. H. Lee

March 2011: In the streets of Jogjakarta some unconventionally dressed young Indonesian men and women carry boxes marked “Jogja Care for Japan”. There’s a boy in a bright red vest, blue shorts and a straw hat, and girl dressed in a Japanese school uniform. They are ‘cosplayers’ (costume players), collecting donations to send to Japan.

and seeking to show their support for Japan. For many weeks near my local supermarket I saw a booth at which passers-by could donate money and fold origami cranes, which would be sent to Japan. With support from The Sumitomo Foundation, I was able to collect stories from across Indonesia, Malaysia and Vietnam about what different people did to support Japan at this time.

On 11 March 2011, Japan was shaken. There was first the magnitude 9.0 earthquake that hit the Tohoku region, followed by a devastating tsunami. The earthquake and tsunami were Japan’s deadliest, with nearly sixteen thousand people from twelve prefectures perishing. Over two thousand five hundred people have not yet been found.

In Indonesia I collaborated with filmmaker Mahatma Putra and photographer Tasha May to interview Indonesians from an array of backgrounds and with some fascinating stories. Among these were members of the Atsuki Tokusatsu Community in Jogjakarta, who raised funds by taking ‘Cosplay on the Road’. Cosplay is an activity originating in Japan, which involves dressing up as characters from Japanese anime and tokusatsu (live action anime). Aryo Ari Wahyoyo and Muryadi Saputra were among those collecting donations in the streets of Jogjakarta. With the money they collected, and a thousand origami cranes, their community folded, they sought to present Japan with ‘a sign of gratitude’ for its cultural contributions. Muryadi noted, “If the cosplayers in Japan did not exist, there wouldn’t be any anime, tokusatsu, or cosplay.”

The earthquake and tsunami was soon followed by another calamity. Regular and emergency cooling systems at the Fukushima-Daiichi nuclear power plant were damaged, leading to meltdowns that have had significant consequences for the people and agriculture of Fukushima prefecture. In the wake of the ‘triple disaster’, foreign governments acted to provide support in various ways. The Maldives, for example, sent 600,000 cans of tuna to Japan. Children around the world sent postcards to Japanese children with messages of moral support. Among those postcards were a thousand from children in Indonesia. In the weeks after 11 March 2011, I observed in Malaysia, where I lived at the time, various groups of people raising funds 6

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Muryadi’s and Aryo’s efforts were part of a larger event initiated by Megarini Puspasari. Mega, as she calls herself, studied in Japan and cofounded the hoshiZora Foundation, which seeks to give Indonesian street children greater access to education. She spoke of her fondness for Japan, where she has friends as a result of her years of study there. She also noted the thanks that the Foundation owes to its many Japanese benefactors, including the Nippon Foundation, which assisted with start-up costs. Mega described how, following the earthquake and tsunami in Japan, she developed the idea of a charity concert, Jogja Care for Japan. The event came to involve a wide array of people and groups who were keen to express their support for Japan. In describing people’s participation in the event, and how it impacted on those there, she said

… it was extraordinary, the people who came for the concert. Even though the preparation was only two weeks, there were so many people who attended and a representative from the Embassy of Japan came too. And we had a teleconference with a friend in Japan to tell us live how the situation was there, how the people were dealing with the situation. And it was not only for Japan, but for us it was a lesson too…that although Japan was facing a disaster, they were surviving. They didn’t fight over food, they queued, didn’t loot and so on. It was a lesson for us. So there was a mutual benefit. Whereas some of those interviewed had lived in Japan, there were other surprising connections. Ardini Suryati, Head of the Salman Al-Farisi School in Bandung told of how the inspiration for her school came from the Japanese book Totto-chan, which

tells the story of how a young Japanese school girl benefits from going to an unconventional school after being expelled from another school. Mr. Mohammad Ridwan of that school described how their activities in the classroom in support of Japan were designed to help children “arouse their empathy with other people.”

employee in Japan working to establish a branch there. Mohammad Sabed Abdi Lawang of Dompet Dhuafa described how the employee’s presence was a “blessing in disguise”, as he was able to mobilise Indonesians in Japan to render assistance in temporary accommodations that housed displaced people.

In addition to activities in Indonesia, there were those who gave direct on-theground assistance in Japan. At the time of the earthquake, the Muslim charitable organisation Dompet Dhuafa had an

Rokhima Rostian was also there at the time, a lecturer at Universitas Gadjah Mada. She was in Sendai and experienced the enormity of the earthquake. Although evacuated, she soon returned to lend a hand along with some other Indonesians. “Besides helping people, we made Indonesian food every weekend and distributed it in the camps.” And with a view of helping Japanese children through this difficult period, “We played a lot of Indonesian games with them.” We found the stories that we collected to be compelling and heart-warming, and they said a great deal about the closeness that many Indonesians feel with Japan. While for some the bond was a result


Julian CH Lee is a lecturer at RMIT University where he teaches International Studies. He has published several books, including The Malaysian Way of Life and Thinking Through Malaysia. He writes a regular column for a Malaysian magazine, the B-Side.

"As Indonesia is familiar with the hardships caused by natural disasters, it was no surprise that one of the things that came through was a sense of solidarity with those in Japan in this respect." of having lived and made friends there, others shared a worldwide appreciation for Japan’s culture. Furthermore, as Indonesia is familiar with the hardships caused by natural disasters, it was no surprise that one of the things that came through was a sense of solidarity with those in Japan in this respect. As Reni Ekifitriati of the hoshiZora Foundation noted, “We need to

help them. Especially when there was the earthquake, because we’ve experienced that too.” To see some of the people described above telling their stories, including Muryadi Saputra who was interviewed in full cosplay attire, watch the short documentary on YouTube, For Japan: Our Sister.

1. Members of the Atsuki Tokusatsu Community in Jogjakarta collecting donations for “Jogja Care for Japan”. Picture courtesy of Atsuki Tokusatsu Community. 2. Muryadi Saputra in cosplayer attire. He is dressed as a Kamen Rider. Photograph taken by Tasha May. 3. A screen shot from the short film For Japan: Our Sister, by Mahatma Putra and Julian CH Lee. Available on YouTube. 4. The cover of Totto-chan, a Japanese book that has had great influence in the field of education. Image taken by Julian CH Lee.

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Dr. Titus Leber An Austrian filmmaker who transformed Borobudur into interactive multimedia By Gabriella Panjaitan

Do you consider yourself an expatriate in Indonesia? Certainly. Even though I move around a lot, I lived the greater part of the last four years in Jakarta and Jogjakarta for my project. How did you get into the film industry? It started when I was 10 years old and had a dream to become a movie director; I filmed my first ‘Super 8’ kind of movie and made some short films with my very first 16mm camera. But really, my entrance to the film world was through classical music; I did a lot of what you would call today ‘extended classical music video clips’ about Schubert, Mozart, you name it. I used a special method of superimposed imagery, which was very avant-garde at the time. That got me awards and sent me places. How have you developed since then? I studied directing at the American Film Institute (AFI) in Hollywood and went back to Europe to do my first feature film which was accepted at the Cannes Film Festival. The Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) apparently had seen my film and encouraged me to work there; they eventually gave me a grant and I became a research fellow. That was in 1984. I guess you could say this was ‘year no.1’ of interactive multimedia — they had just came up with touch screen technology which became the foundation of my work. As a movie director, I found multimedia very interesting; there are challenges in trying to integrate my audience interactively. To take it to the next level, I fused my knowledge of high-tech material from America and cultural values from Europe, that’s what I was eventually known for; large scale high-end cultural projects using interactive multimedia.

When did you first encounter Indonesia? In 1991 where I was part of a UNESCO expedition tour. That was the first time I saw the majestic Borobudur temple. Why did you take an interest in making Borobudur the subject of your interactive multimedia? I was invited by the King of Thailand to do a big cultural project on the life and the teachings of the Buddha. I spent several years doing an interactive project linking the emerald Buddha temple in Bangkok to the original sites of Buddha’s life in India. With that background of knowledge on Buddhism and the culture surrounding it, we moved to Indonesia, home of the largest Buddhist temple in the world. What aspect of Borobudur fascinates you most? The fact that our ancestors told stories using the same means we do today; through writings and imagery. The Borobudur is essentially one big picture book, or if you prefer, one big movie. If you spend some time looking at the Borobudur, you may only see stones and some simple relief panels on it, but as the shadow shifts and the cloud moves, you can see other sides of the story. It’s like an animated movie. What was the purpose of the project for you? With my PhD background in art history, my passion for cultural multimedia projects and my knowledge on Buddhism, I felt it’s my role to translate what our ancestors have expressed. That was the goal of the project; to create edutainment for young people who might not have time to read books anymore but can access such knowledge through technology. I wanted to bring Borobudur

Borobudur — Paths to Enlightenment by Titus Leber

to everybody’s pockets and in turn bring the world to the Borobudur. How did you start the project? I proposed the idea to Pak Darmono, who is chairman of PT. Taman Wisata Candi Borobudur, and he liked it. We received funding and filmed it. We filmed for two years in Jogjakarta and did post-production in Jakarta for another two. I know this is a large-scaled virtual tour, but walk me through a bit of it, please.


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Were there funny or memorable stories during the shooting? I had people telling me that ghosts were involved during the shooting; that they

"I wanted to bring Borobudur to everybody’s pockets and in turn bring the world to the Borobudur" First of all, there are multiple paths to start with. Whether the user has very limited understanding or very advanced knowledge on Borobudur and Buddhism, both can easily start using the program. And the path they can choose ranges from a typical two-hour tour for tourists to the 65GB worth of journey, like that of Buddhist monks who circumambulate the temple 10 times in great detail. That’s why the title carries the word ‘paths’ (plural); it is a multiple approach ‘virtual tour’ with, as its backbone, 400 panorama shots which lets you go instantly to any point of the temple, as well as any angle in any lighting or shadow gradient. There are 6,460 panels of the temple and each has a story. We linked every panel’s story to the original sutras and Buddhist texts. So when you click on one relief in a panel, the corresponding story will pop up in film, narration and text. You can use this information for edutainment or to reach enlightenment; there are many ways to explore the Borobudur. Did you come into difficulties? Looking back, I think it’s nothing short of a miracle that we could complete this project.

Borobudur — Paths to Enlightenment by Titus Leber

Most of the challenges are on the style of work and bureaucracy with my crew. It took me a while to put together a great team but in the end, the ensemble works like a welloiled machine; a beautiful collaboration. I had a team of 3-D programmers, video editors, animators and obviously a spiritual advisor.

stole the scripts and whatnot. How do you like living in Indonesia? We were very privileged to live in the summer house of the governor of Central Java, waking up every day to the sight of the Borobudur. The natural beauty of this country is fascinating. It’s like living in a wide screen movie. Does your wife travel with you through all your postings? Yes. We met in Hollywood, she was an actress and I was a young director. It’s beautiful; she’s involved on a lot of the things I’m doing. What do you think of the film industry in Indonesia? Any advice for filmmakers? I notice young filmmakers ask for money before coming up with an idea that holds together. Instead, do it the conventional way; develop an idea, give it treatment, get it approved, start polishing a script then execute the project. Another advice is to get a sense of literacy on great films — build a library of knowledge — then apply it.



Meet Camille Massard Combe (aka Chef Kamil). Camille is the proud owner and chef of Mediterranea, a traditional French and Mediterranean restaurant in Jogjakarta, Central Java. To meet Chef Kamil, visit Mediterranea Restaurant, Jalan Tirtodipuran no 24A, Jogjakarta, Indonesia Phone: +62 274 371052

Bonjour, Camille. Firstly, please tell us how you adopted the Indonesian name Kamil? There’s a simple explanation for this. When I arrived, I realized that people started to write my name in this way and I found it quite fancy and local, so I adopted the name ever since! Where are you originally from? I’m from France bien sûr madame. But both of my parents’ families were originally from the North of Italy. I was born and grew up in Paris. I stayed for three years in the southwest of France, working as a chef as well. You came to Indonesia in 2008. What was the reason for this visit and why have you stayed ever since? At first I came to visit a friend for a holiday and I really liked the place. Then I decided to try my luck with a small restaurant, which has been quite successful, so I decided to stay. What is it about life in Jogjakarta that you love so much? How does it compare to Bali or Jakarta, for example? I like that it is a human-sized city, with a kind of village feeling, despite fast changes that have happened over the last five years. Jogjakarta is known as a big city but I still like it. Bali and Jakarta are definitely too packed for me. What would you say would be the best day out in Jogjakarta, for someone who has never been before? And where would be the best place, in your opinion, for breakfast, lunch then dinner? Of course you have to visit the main attractions like Borobudur temple and Prambanan temple, and so on. Also visit the southeast coast where they have beautiful white sand beaches. Finish up by climbing Mount Merapi, one of the most active volcanoes in the country. For breakfast, I would say have it in my kitchen with my wife and I, for lunch definitely enjoy it in my restaurant, and for dinner as well! I work 15 hours a day, six out of seven days a week, so you are most likely to find me there. There are plenty of other nice restaurants in south Jogjakarta as well. You opened a now well-known eatery in Jogjakarta called Mediterranea Restaurant, serving traditional French and Mediterranean cuisine. How did you go about starting this venture? After a few experiences, I wanted a large

space with my own decorations. I tried to upgrade this place regularly and apparently the people like it. The restaurant is a full concept; food has to be very good but the cosiness is also important. I like that my customers take their time to eat, so they need also a nice place to enjoy the food and their surroundings. What is the most popular dish on your menu? Have you had to make any of your recipes more Indonesian to better suit the local palate? Mushroom risotto with duck breast on the grill is the most popular, I would say. I stick to the French traditional taste and I really enjoy that my Indonesian customers have discovered new flavours from my restaurant. It’s a part of my job. Why did you choose Jalan Tirtodipuran for your venue’s location? I fell in love with the post colonial house that the restaurant is in. Jalan Tirtodipuran is also one of the nicest and most quaint streets in Jogjakarta where you can find some antique shops and famous batik factories. What challenges have you faced training local staff to cook French food? It’s a daily challenge. I have to make my staff excited to cook using French techniques to prepare the meals. I also have to introduce them to new flavours and tastes. It’s not always easy to make them embrace a new culinary culture

but it’s a very interesting challenge for me and I enjoy it. Where do you get your produce from? Is it locally sourced? I really try to use local products as much as I can. It’s a real issue for me. I feel extremely concerned about this matter, but of course, for example, olive oil is imported. I only use imported products when I cannot find it here. In the future, I really would like to grow some organic vegetables and use them daily in my restaurant. This will happen soon. What are your future plans? Any plans to expand? I have many plans in my mind, but I will keep it in the box for now. Do you see Jogjakarta being your home for the foreseeable future? Yes, for sure. I have one kid and the second one is on the way so we won’t be moving anywhere. I still feel that Jogjakarta is a nice family-friendly place to live. Where is your favourite place in Indonesia? This is a difficult one, but I would say the majestic volcanoes around Java. And finally, what is your favourite Indonesian expression? Nanti dulu, which means ‘later on’!

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Hans Rooseboom is a long term resident of Jakarta. He has visited nearly all of Indonesia's provinces and worked for many years in Ambon, Aceh, Manado and a number of smaller and larger towns on Java. He now enjoys a leisurely life, playing tennis most mornings and writing his blogs and other articles.

Tylomelania snails © Wikipedia Commons

soroako, south sulawesi

Home of Indonesia's Deepest Lake

Cardinia Shrimp © Wikipedia Commons

By Hans Rooseboom


Soroako, a small nickel mining town in East Luwu regency, South Sulawesi province, is located at the top of Sulawesi's eastern leg. It is accessible by road and by air from Makassar.

southern shore of Lake Matano and consists largely of company owned houses and other buildings. The narrow sliver on the shore, north of the airport is the Soroako of indigenous and non-Inco residents.

The mine and the largest part of the town was constructed in the late 1960s by PT Inco, now called PT Vale Indonesia. The great majority of Soroako's residents are either employed by this mining company, or by its contractors and subcontractors. The rest of the population is largely engaged in farming, fishing and the service sector.

And then of course there is the lake — in the lingo of the town this is Lake Matano. It is used for boating, fishing, swimming, diving and any other water-related activity. It is famous for its many endemic species of fish, shrimp and crabs like the Tylomelania snail, Caridina shrimp and Parathelphusid crab. The endemic fish of Matano have been compared to the species swarms of the Rift Valley Lakes of Africa. On the western side there is a fairly unexplored cave, one chamber of which contains hundreds of skeletons said to be the remains of a PKI (Indonesia Communist Party) rebel force from the 1950s. Others claim that it is a cemetery (similar to the cemetery caves of Tana Toraja).

PT Vale Indonesia operates the largest open-pit nickel mine in Indonesia. And although open-pit mining involves clearing the vegetation and top soil of large areas, the company manages a well regarded rehabilitation programme and awardwinning sediment control systems. It should, however, be kept in mind that in order to counter erosion, the vast areas of rainforest lost to the mining operation cannot be replaced by the same species. A mono-culture of largely non-native trees thus has created a serious loss of biodiversity. The intensive rehabilitation programme includes landscaping and placing layers of planting soil, terracing and the development of drainage systems. This first phase is followed up by revegetating and replanting. Some 700 hectares have been revegetated to date. Soroako, located in the Verbeek Mountains, is surprisingly beautiful. It is surrounded by three lakes; Lake Matano (the deepest lake in Indonesia and the tenth deepest in the world), Lake Towuti and Lake Mahalona. The town is located on the


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The waters of Lake Matano are exceptionally clear, visibility is good, even though some mining sediment washes into the lake. With a depth of almost 600m (1,940ft), it is the deepest lake in Indonesia. As the surface elevation from mean sea level is only 382m (1,253ft), the deepest portion

Country: Indonesia Province: South Sulawesi Elevation: 382 m Population (2009): Desa Soroako Desa Magani Desa Nikkel TOTAL

8,200 9,200 6,800 24,200

HOW TO GET THERE From Makassar by Indonesia Air Transport (Outsiders US$157, booking at counter IAT, Makassar, 0811 423 955) or an overnight bus ride (10 hours)

WHERE TO STAY Hotel Grand Mulia — 0812 4115 2151 Hotel Matano Sunrise — 0852 3097 3729 Krakatau Guest House — 0813 4278 1771 Duta Inn — 0475 321 794 WHERE TO EAT Restaurants in the hotels, also: • Pondok Bambu • Almaidah • Transisco Resto • TAB (the Vade Club, outsiders pay US$8 per person entrance fee)

“On the western side there is a fairly unexplored cave, one chamber of which contains hundreds of skeletons said to be the remains of a PKI (Indonesia Communist Party) rebel force from the 1950s. Others claim that it is a cemetery (similar to the cemetery caves of Tana Toraja).” of the lake is below sea level. In short, and apart from the skeletons, an attractive set of facilities and resources, and more than enough to warrant a visit.

And that's what those who were born or have worked in Soroako seem to be doing — going back time and again. They are uniformly fond of Soroako and the time

they have spent there. They have formed social network groups and keep each other informed of their present-day activities. Reunions are organised; lunch meetings in a Jakarta restaurant for residents of the metropolis, or long weekends in Soroako. The latter is quite remarkable, as apart from the cost there is also a time factor. The flight from Makassar to Soroako gives priority treatment to Vale employees and often there are no seats left for outsiders. The only alternative then is a ten-hour overnight bus ride. But every time a reunion is organised many show up. The reason, they say, is they want to see their friends again, and the beautiful place of their youth. And they want to swim in the clear waters of their beloved Lake Matano. These strong bonds were formed when they moved from nursery to primary school and on to SMP (middle school) and SMA (high school), with the same classmates! In Soroako there was but one of these schools, and unless you moved out of town, that's the one you attended. As a result, some know each other since kindergarten! And after school they played together, went swimming together, had their first Budweiser together (mind you, Budweiser, the company store stocked many American products, including Skippy peanut butter). They still remember who went steady and when and why they broke up. That's a lot of shared memory from a pleasant small town at the end of the road from Makassar. Outsiders, that is those not employed by PT Vale, or not on a nostalgic reunion, would best travel overland to Soroako and add a visit to Tana Toraja to their itinerary. This would be best arranged in Makassar.

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The Dayak Dancer

Words and Photos By David Metcalf

Siti is an extraordinarily beautiful and determined young woman. Her story is one of courage and determination and a desire to represent her culture through the spirit of dance. And she has a dream. This talented dancer was born twentyfive years ago in a small village, Mungku Baru, about a two-hour boat journey from Palangkaraya in Central Kalimantan where she now lives. Her father is Javanese and moved to Palangkaraya under the transmigration program. Siti’s mother is Ngaju Dayak. Her village is very traditional and she shared some of her beliefs with me, “My village is full of many spirits, some good, some bad. The Shaman in my village drives away the bad spirits and we feel safe and secure in our traditional beliefs.” Siti started dancing when she was just five years old and has never really stopped. In 2012, after leaving university she decided to make a career of teaching traditional Dayak dance and in January this year opened her own dance studio called Darung Tingang which means big bird. A typical day begins at 6.30 in the morning and Siti often teaches or practises until 7.00 in the evening, sometimes sleeping in her studio, which is a reflection of how determined she is to make the studio a success. The majority of her students are children aged four to 12 years and she does teach some older high school children. Siti told me, “I believe every Dayak child who wants to dance should be allowed that opportunity, so if they come from poor families and cannot afford the Rp.200,000 per month, then I will teach them for free.”

feel strongly connected with my culture. However, I want to learn about other cultures also. I hear there are other people similar to us, like the American Indians and I would love to dance with these people one day. My mother is afraid that our culture is losing its way and we are becoming disconnected with the land as more Dayaks leave the forests and rivers and move to the cities, like I have done. Dance is a very important way to teach the younger generation to value our history and ancient beliefs,” said Siti. Watching Siti dance, it is clearly apparent that this beautiful young woman loves what she does. There is such expression in her dance, which embraces joy and happiness. It is obvious to me that she was born to dance and it would be a great shame if audiences all over the world do not see this beauty and grace. Through her Dayak traditional dance, her culture is beautifully represented and should be shared both locally and overseas.


Want to help Siti achieve her dream? Contact David Metcalf who is supporting Siti’s dance academy. The dance school needs traditional musical instruments and financial support to perform in other countries. David arranged for Siti and her group to fly to Jakarta to perform at his book launch at the Museum National, which took place on March 6th. The book titled Indonesia’s Hidden Heritage — Cultural Journeys of Discovery is a showcase of Indonesian culture. Siti and her group are featured in the book and it looks like her dream is starting to come true.

This kind-hearted woman sometimes has to survive on Rp.500,000 a month but is determined to make Darung Tingang a success. She is able to supplement her income by performing at weddings and government functions and occasionally for tourist groups, although few foreigners visit Palangkaraya, but Siti has a dream. “I want to perform in other places in Indonesia and overseas. When I dance I try and evoke the spirits of the past and I 12

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David Metcalf is the co-author of a new book — Indonesia’s Hidden Heritage — Cultural journeys of Discovery including over 300 of his photographs, available via his website. David lives in Bali and loves travelling around Indonesia and also organises photography tours.


Stockroom Dishes

Qraved Team is a group of passionate people in food & tech. We love sharing stories of eateries around town as well as building Jakarta's first online restaurant reservations at

By Qraved

If you’re the adventurous kind of foodie then Stockroom Dishes might do well to satiate your curiosity for new eateries. Located a little off the grid on the small road next to Anomali Kemang, everything about this place is just right. The ambience is very much inviting, as well as the food and the drinks. Divided into two main areas, the bar and the sofa next to it makes a cosy lounge area to dine and chat with friends comfortably, while the rest of the room is painted with vintage decorations that screams out rough and underground. Now on the belly fulfilling menus, Stockroom Dishes have what might be one of the most delightful burgers in Jakarta. It is well grounded and offers the option to choose how you like it cooked. Going medium-rare would be the best way to go, as it keeps a good amount of juice that adds flavour to the already superior patty. It also comes with fries that are well-seasoned which make a great companion to the burger. A combo you should not miss. Also, their rendition of modern milkshakes is top notch. Imagine Pop Corn Milkshakes or Marie Milkshakes. If a picture of the Marie biscuit or Pop Corn pops in your head, then you’re right; the drink is inspired by this and used as the main ingredient. It might take a sip or two to get acquainted with this, but once you’re hooked, then you might even want to go for a second round. Food, drinks, and finally desert. A few options are available from the mouth-watering Nutella Lava Cake that suit those with a sweet tooth, to the scrumptious Mocha Pot De Crème, which caters to those who prefers to end their meal with something pleasant for the tongue yet not on the sweet end.

STOCKROOM DISHES Belle Point Jl. Kemang Selatan 8 No. 55A Jakarta, Indonesia Phone: (021)-719 0393 Opening Hours: Monday – Thursday: 10.00 – 22.00 Friday – Sunday: 10.00 – 24.00 Twitter & Instagram: @stockroomjkt

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the gamelan group

All Nationalities, Ages and Motives Welcome

Gail Collins writes internationally for magazines and has co-written two books on expat life. She feels writing is the perfect excuse to talk to strangers and know the world around her better.

By Gail G. Collins

As Pak Parno threads his way through the gamelan, he claps his hands to guide the tempo and calls out to beginners who have lost their place in the music. Eyes focus on notes as mallets tap out a lancaran or simple song. The cyclical melody is carried by the metallophones, embellished by the ringing tones of bronze, knobbed kettles. This is punctuated by hanging gongs and led by the beating of the kendhang drum. Repetitive lines pulse on counts of two and four. These crescendo and accelerate before winding down to pause for the strike of the massive gong gede, followed by the musicians’ final note. It is mesmerizing music. The players awaken from their reverie to see three newcomers have arrived. They are welcomed, and members call out, “Come on, it’s easy - everyone can play.” The guests are handed music and encouraged to sit on cushions in front of the saron, an easy instrument. After some quick instruction, the newbies play along, and smiles of accomplishment bloom on each face. This is the joy of gamelan. Pak Parno has taught this gamelan group in South Jakarta for eight years, but he prefers another term. “I don’t teach,” he says, “I help people to learn. I am happy and love the arts.” The wizened instructor began studying gamelan, or Indonesian orchestra, more than four decades ago, and he plays professionally throughout the country. The group boasts both accomplished and novice players, who enjoy Pak Parno’s gentle direction. After two years, expat Cheryl Parker has gained the confidence and competence to play the bonang, two rows of bronze kettle gongs. These horizontal gongs can introduce a beginner’s song and elaborate with a countermelody. “I joined this group to do something cultural,” she says. “You can pick it up quite easily. Gamelan is a calming break, rather hypnotic.” Andrew and Ashley Goldman from England agree. “It’s a stress relief to concentrate on one thing. And you must concentrate, or you’ll get lost,” Ashley says with a laugh. Gamelan is the indigenous instrumental ensemble of Indonesia, with variations from the islands of Bali and Java. The music is a hallmark part of puppet performances, traditional dance ceremonies, rituals and orchestral productions.


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The gamelan consists of various gongs, which are suspended or flat, plus tuned, metal instruments struck with padded mallets, called tabu. Gamelan instruments generally fall into three types: balungan or melody, elaborating and punctuating. Balungan instruments create a song’s skeleton through various xylophones or saron tuned in octaves. These are easy for beginners to play. The percussive punctuating instruments are gongs, either suspended from a frame or enormous, horizontal kettles. They are struck at rigidly defined places in the melody, and the largest gong marks the end of each rhythmic line as well as the song’s completion. The elaborating instruments include two sizes of bonang, plus a zither, violin and bamboo flute. There can also be a singer. These elements independently weave texture over the melody within established guidelines. Lastly, the kendhang drums pace the song.

Gamelan is the indigenous instrumental ensemble of Indonesia, with variations from the islands of Bali and Java. Gender


Each gamelan is a unique entity, with instruments tuned to one another as opposed to a standard. There are two tunings or lara, comparable to Western music’s major and minor keys. These are pelog and slendro, respectively. The two instruments’ tunings are set at right angles to one another in the gamelan.

Saron Peking

Gamelan instruments are treated with the utmost respect by all people for their traditional and spiritual nature. Musicians do not wear shoes when they play and tread carefully, so as not to step over any instruments. Periodically, during rehearsals, someone in the group calls out, “All change.” At that, the musicians move from one instrument to another. Some are cautious about trying something new, but others, like Ashley Goldman, eagerly jump at the opportunity to move from the saron to the kenong. The huge, gong pots are like a Western drum kit with more options. Everyone is urged to have a go at any instrument, though some


To join the gamelan group, contact:

take more practice. There is no pressure for perfection, just pleasure in participating and learning. American Carol Walker heads up this Javanese gamelan group, helping others to delight in Indonesian culture through music. She and Tim Buehrer have grown their collection of pelog and slendro instruments since 1995, and the complete orchestra crowds one large room. “At times, the gamelan is half Indonesian and half expat - it’s a revolving door of musicians,” says Walker. Some come for the social night out, and the goal for others is to advance their musicianship. “Everybody is welcome here and possibilities for performing opportunities do arise.” These provide goals for practice. Originally, the term gamelan was a broad one, encompassing a wide variety of music. Indonesians appreciated foreign instruments and styles and adopted their use. Over time, however, the rise of Western musical categories branded a standard form of gamelan music. It is enjoying a resurgence of interest in classes like Walker’s. As the evening closes out, people chat, and a Western tune replaces the cyclical gamelan songs still swirling in many heads. Walker immediately recognizes it and grins. Pak Paron is jamming on a saron demung while a group member picks out the jazzy notes of When the Saints Go Marching In on a banjo. It is a madcap, magical moment. And originally gamelan.



how indonesia's present is the world's social media future

Nithin has taken his international upbringing to the maximum, having lived and worked in the United States, France, Spain, Nepal, and currently, Indonesia, where he hopes to play a role in protecting this country's amazing environmental and cultural heritage.

use social media — gossip, information, relationships — is firmly with newer, specific networks like Path.

By Nithin Coca

Closed networks. A limit on friends. Strong privacy settings. It's Path, of course. The social network, launched in 2010, received scant attention from users in the US after an initial publicity spike, but quickly gained footing overseas, especially in Indonesia. That's why Path received an investment of $25 million from the Bakrie Group, one of Indonesia’s leading conglomerates, in January. At the same time, Asia's social media clout is growing, particularly in the continent's third most populous country; Indonesia. The country has a large, young population (unlike Japan), cheap and reliable wireless broadband (unlike India), and few government restrictions or censorship (unlike China). Silicon Valley ignores Jakarta at its own peril. In fact, as social media becomes more and more fragmented, Path's popularity among Indonesia's internet savvy netizens, through increased depth and engagement of the user experience, may point the way forward in a fluid, connected, mobiledriven future. Networks Building upon Networks Social Media Usage Among Internet Users





100 %

Indonesia Malaysia China United States Japan Source: Data: Global Web Index Survey 2010 of Facebook, Twitter & Social Chat Apps

By Paul Enrich

Jakarta tweets more than any other city in the world, accounting for 2.4% of all tweets globally. In fact, Indonesians Tweet with far more regularity and with larger circles of followers than their American brethren, which demonstrates a critical point. Not only are vast numbers of Indonesians using social media, but they use it more often, in a wider variety of ways, and often, simultaneously with other networks. Tweets highlight Instragram photos, direct friends to Facebook posts, or invite them to join their private Path. A clear reason for Path's rise here is its integration with Twitter in early versions. Twitter users found that having a private Path network was a perfect complement to its open chatter. Each site could be used simultaneously for different purposes; one to talk to the world about traffic, the other, to plan a night out with your closest friends. In fact, Path is claiming the niche that Facebook abandoned for global growth years ago. Few in Asia realize that Facebook was originally a closed network. By the time Facebook began to grow in Indonesia in 2008 (then, as a marketplace to buy and sell goods, foretelling Indonesia's now rapidly growing e-commerce markets), it barely resembled its university, privacy-focused start. Path's introduction was adding a new dimension to social media never seen before. Like Facebook circa 2005, Path was gobbled up by students and then, middleclass Indonesians. Social Media's Capital Facebook is now used, as many Indonesians told me, as a web-version of a photo ID. Like when entering a nightclub, it’s your gateway inside, but, once you've passed security, the real reason that Indonesians

They focus on mobile technology and cater to specific niches of the user experience. In fact, Indonesia is an early adopter of new social communication apps that have barely penetrated many Western markets. Mobile apps Kakao, WeChat, and Line all count Indonesia as one of the their top markets. More than 60% of Indonesians with web access use mobile phones or handheld devices to access the internet, and for those who use smartphones, it is apps that are the initial entry point onto social media. That's why, in Jakarta today, getting people to use email or PCs is nearly impossible — if you want a quick response, you had better send a Tweet or a WhatsApp message. This fits in perfectly with Path's goal, which according to CEO Dave Morin, was to build a network that allows for richer, deeper communication, allowing for social media to strengthen personal relationships. It understands that we can only have so many real connections in our lives — hence, a limit on friends (currently 150). Other features include a mobile focused interface, private chat, and, notably, no way to post other people's posts or photos on your profile or wall. Perhaps telling, since its release, Path has been moving in the opposite direction of Facebook, towards more privacy, recently allowing users to designate inner circles and share content to as few as two or three people, and no one else. It’s certain that Path won't be the last social media tool to make its mark in Indonesia. Right now in Jakarta, Path sits along Facebook, Twitter, Whatsapp, and WeChat on local Blackberrys and Android smartphones. Thus far, Indonesians have mostly adopted social media tools developed outside of the country. That might be changing. As start-up incubators and technology networks expand in cities like Jakarta, but also Bangkok, Manila, and Singapore, perhaps the next Path, Kakao, or WeChat will come directly from the Twitter capital of the world.

Eco bottle caps double as Lego blocks Created by Brazil-based innovative packaging developer Clever Pack, the caps are designed to seal bottles initially. Once the bottle cap purpose has been served, the ridges on top and underneath allow each one to be clipped onto another. Clever Caps can be saved each time a bottle is finished and used to create a collection of building blocks, either as a children’s toy or as a tool for innovators to design with. The caps even work with existing brands such as Lego.

App promises clean water for kids in need when users simply ignore their phone UNICEF’s Tap Project app helps provide a day’s worth of clean water to children in need for every ten minutes users refrain from touching their phone. UNICEF is challenging smartphone users to make a difference by ignoring their devices through the Tap Project app. After starting the app, the program detects if the phone is being left untouched. For each ten minutes users can spare, the project will donate cash to help provide one day’s worth of clean water in areas where it’s most needed.

Bike light deters dangerous activity behind cyclists Fly6 is a rear bike light with an embedded HD camera that warns drivers that they’re being filmed. It aims to discourage bad behaviour on the part of motorists by warning them that they’re being filmed, so not to engage in risky driving or attempting to annoy cyclists in much the same way speed cameras act as a deterrent to dangerous speeds. The Fly6 can be charged via USB and offers five hours runtime. Video is stored on an 8GB microSD card located inside, and filming can be set to loop so that riders can simply leave it to continuously record.

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owner of rick's pub crawl

Bill Dalton has been writing travel features, book reviews, interviews and guidebooks about Indonesia for more than 40 years, starting with his groundbreaking Indonesia Handbook first published in 1976. Bill lives on a farm with his Indonesian family deep in the countryside of West Bali.


too drunk, then we will slow down the service of shots, stop them completely or we will leave the venue. We work with our venue partners in order not to cause any damage or create a bad reputation. We want our guests to remember the night free of any issues or injuries.

Rick Creamer was born on the Gold Coast in Queensland, but his family moved to Victoria when he was still a child. He grew up in the Geelong region. Rick has worked in the hospitality industry since the age of 15, starting as a dishwasher and working his way up to management positions in restaurants and hotels. Rick has owned a marketing company based in Australia and he’s a fully qualified hospitality trainer. In 2005, Rick set up the first pub crawl in Indonesia since the Peanuts Pub Crawl in the late ‘80s and ‘90s. When was your first visit to Bali and why did you visit at that time? I received a trip to Bali as a gift on my 18th birthday. However, the 2002 Bali bombings happened. We were due to fly to Bali the following weekend, but the Australian government cancelled all flights so we went to Penang instead. We came back to Bali six months later because my mother wanted to show my sister and I the island. Why did you decide to live and work in Bali? I lived in Bali in 2005 for 18 months while managing a little pub in Legian called Ye Olde Foo-Kin Pub. It has since been torn down. I also started a small pub crawl at the time, called The Foo-Kin Pub Crawl, which took groups of eight to 12 people around to the local venues in the area. It was very successful. When I decided to leave, I always knew I would be back to give it another go. And that’s exactly what happened after I returned in 2012. What is Rick’s Pub Crawl all about? Rick’s Pub Crawl is the best way to get your night started in Bali. With five of Bali’s hottest venues on our party map you are guaranteed to have an awesome time! Participants are guided by our own crew along with private security from venue to venue to make sure you are safe and most importantly, having a great time and meeting new people. A lot of the venues, guests would not normally visit, so it is a great way to educate them about the different options available in Bali for a night out. 16

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Why do you call it “The Official Pub Crawl”? Rick's Pub Crawl is the only organized pub crawl in Indonesia. There are no other party tours like us. Some have tried to open but they have not survived for very long. We trademarked the name Rick's Pub Crawl and our slogan, “Can You Survive…?” so no one can try and trade on our success as happened once back in 2006. That competing pub crawl is no longer around. Where and at what time does it start? We meet at Eikon Bar on Jl. Legian Kuta every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday nights. Rick’s Pub Crawl starts at 8pm, but because traffic can be bad around Kuta we don’t really expect people to arrive until 8.15–8.30pm. It’s important to be on time as it gives the group time to get to know each other and build friendships that will develop even more during the course of the evening. Every guest receives an official whistle, shot glass and special Rick's Pub Crawl t-shirt that he or she has to wear while on the pub crawl. This allows us to know who they are at all times. How do you get from pub to pub? Rick’s Pub Crawl is a walking and party bus tour. Fully trained professional party hosts will guide you from club to club. You don't need to worry about a thing. We take care of it all for you. Staff are positioned along

the paths to make sure you are guided from club to club in a fun and safe manner. We are here to help you enjoy yourself. What are pub crawl participants allowed to do in Bali that they would not be able to do in, say, Australia? As liquor licensing laws here in Bali are a lot more relaxed than in Australia, we are allowed to do a lot more than we could there. But we are playing by the rules at all times and using our knowledge of the rules and regulations to create a fun, safe and entertaining night out. Our guests’ safety is our main concern on each and every pub crawl, so we quickly bring people back into line if things start to get carried away. How long do participants stay at each venue? Approximately 45–50 minutes; plenty of time to engage in the Rick’s Pub Crawl drink specials and bust out on the dance floor. Are the drinks free? No. Guests must still pay for their drinks in the venues we visit. The shots that we do provide are included in the ticket price. We have a set amount of bottles that we provide each night and once they run out, that’s it. We do not encourage guests to become too intoxicated, as that would be no fun for anyone. If we feel the guests are becoming

Are drinks watered down or are they served full strength? The shots that we provide are a mixture of 9 Vodka, which we buy from Bali Moon, flavoured syrup and filtered water mixed at a ratio of 1/5 vodka to 4/5 syrup and water. We tell all our guests what is in the shots when they arrive. We don’t substitute the vodka for anything else. If our guests do not want to drink the shots we do not force them to. What safety measures do you have in place to prevent mishaps? As we cap the number of guests we take each night to 50, it allows us to have a great staff to guest ratio; 1:5 (including security). First of all, RPC visits only safe alcohol venues, a very big issue in Bali at the moment. All staff members are fully trained in first aid. As we know which route we take each night, we always go out beforehand in the afternoon to look for any hazards along the path. When crossing roads, we utilize staff and security to stop traffic to allow the guests to walk across safely. What is the highlight of the evening? For most, the main highlights are the party buses and the drag queen bar.

For more information on Rick’s Pub Crawl, visit:, www.facebook. com/rickspubcrawl, or read the reviews on Trip Advisor.


acceptance of social media and access to new forms of personal credit. Indonesia’s population of 240 million exceeded 300 million mobile phone subscriptions last year, as many subscribers carry two or more handphones. Naturally the technology start-up opportunities are mainly mobile-focused, and others are in social media, e-commerce, payment systems, digital advertising and businessto-business markets.

Indonesian Expat Entrepreneur By Guy Nelson

As an expatriate in Indonesia you probably chose to live here for a job assignment, or an extended visit or retirement, preceded by one or more preliminary visits to Indonesia. Now you ’ve settled into your expat lifestyle, and like others who became expat-entrepreneurs, you see potential for developing a new business in Indonesia. Surmountable start-up details aside, your primary challenge is to choose a business to start. As a foundation to a new enterprise, Indonesia’s economy is quite stable. Gross domestic product ranges between 5% – 6% annually, largely produced internally since 60% of Indonesia’s economy comes from domestic consumption. With GDP of nearly $850 billion last year, Indonesia is the world’s 16th largest economy, following only China, Japan, India and South Korea in Asia. Indonesia has significant exports of raw materials but limited exports of manufactured goods. The government is now slowing exports of natural resources, and imports into Indonesia are relatively limited, so economic dependency on trade with other countries is minor compared to most. Consequently, the country can weather storms in the global economy better than others. This capacity for Indonesia to drive its internal economy means your new business will largely be shielded from world economic changes, especially if you target internally at the increasing purchasing power of the country’s growing “consumer class”. It should impress you to know McKinsey (2012) reported Indonesia’s consumer group could increase from 45 million currently to more than half the population at 135 million by 2030 — an increase only to be exceeded in India and China. By then, Indonesia’s economy will be the 7th largest in the world, greater than the economies of Germany and the UK. Let’s assume you are persuaded to focus your new business on this growing consumer group. That’s a big target which you can further narrow down. With Indonesia’s burgeoning middle class at an average age of 28, the youthful demographics promise their attachment to new technology and will boom for a long time. The business drivers here are increased access to the internet and e-commerce via mobile phones, especially smartphones which are rapidly dropping below the Rp.2 million price point. The boom is also cheered on by broad

Large numbers of new businesses have chosen the tech sector, with enterprise creation speeding up since 2010. Don’t worry though; there is plenty of open space for more. If this sounds too fast-paced and hightech for your taste there are plenty of other new business opportunities in Indonesia. Beef is popular in the country but there is limited selection of good beef products, so high quality beef is mainly imported from Australia. Why not develop excellent beef here? Also, someone needs to develop a strain of wheat that will survive in Indonesia, to support the increasing demand for wheat products. After-sale customer service is not a regular concept in Indonesia and enterprises that provide it will generate businesses that succeed more easily. Apparent areas of ineptitude in Indonesia that slow things down and irritate you and other expats are potential areas for change. However, seeing business and life in Indonesia move more slowly than in your home country does not make Indonesia a lesser country. The order of life is different here. It takes some time to appreciate the local culture and find related weaknesses in your business plans. Spending a few months doing reconnaissance will be worth the time. After that it just comes down to doing it. As an expat you have two paths to instigate a registered Indonesian business. The most costly path is to set up a ‘PMA’. Some business sectors are allowed 100% foreign ownership through a PMA company, while other sectors require an Indonesian partner. The expensive part of the PMA is the government requirement for US$1.2 million in investment; luckily only 25% (US$300 thousand) is needed as ‘paid-up’ capital. For some this may not be affordable and the second route is via a ‘PT’ company with an Indonesian partner, whereby the foreigner is not allowed to own the PT in their own name. This path naturally has more risk. Whatever business direction you choose, take the precaution to establish relationships with a recommended lawyer, notaris and accountant to help guard your rights and investment as you navigate the setup process.

Guy Nelson is a Canadian expat, living and working in Java and Bali since 1997. He initiated BizPlanPlus ( an Indonesian business consultancy to help expat clients “avoid failure on your way to success”.

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Paul Enrich is a freelance writer covering tales and topics as diverse as life around us. Always in transit mode, he’s continually on the move: one moment here, the next there in search for that tale to tell.

Hotel Trends 2014 By Paul Enrich

Marriott Singapore ©

MGM Grand Hotel & Casino ©

Hospitality technology continues to evolve — and fast. Everything from inroom entertainment options to meeting room technology to effective use of social media in marketing, keeping up-to-date with the latest trends can prove to be an exciting task for hotel owners and operators. In this edition of Indonesia Expat, we explore 10 key hospitality technology trends that will keep prudent hoteliers at the forefront of their industry. 1. Technical Autonomy Hotel guests are now travelling with an increasing number of personal devices (one industry survey concluded that 45 percent of hotel guests travel with two devices and 40 percent with three or more). With guests arriving with their own information and entertainment content, one hotel group, the Marriott, has responded to this trend through hotel room design, ensuring guests have the electronics (adequate and easy-toreach plugs, bandwidth capabilities) and ergonomic support (seating and surfaces) they need. When thinking about technology, the design of a room that enables free movement and mobility — anywhere in that room — needs to be taken into account. Guests need to be comfortable with any devices they bring to a hotel room. 2. The New Extras To keep guests entertained, hotels are increasingly providing e-readers. The devices are preloaded with books and magazines, and guests can request personalised uploads. Also, ‘business bars’ stocking iPads guests can use are becoming more frequent. For families that forget to pack — or don’t have — tablets, courtesy iPads stocked with games and entertainment content are big hits with bored kids. 3. Automated Check-In Changing trends see guests now preferring to interact with hotel staff through the use of technology rather than using the phone. The Hyatt Union Square New York offers three check-in options for guests: an iPad check-in, a self-serve check-in kiosk, and a traditional front desk. About 40 percent of guests at the hotel select the iPad option. Marriott recently launched a test in 31 hotels that will allow for remote check-in. A message is sent to guests 24 hours ahead of arrival asking for their planned checkin time, and the hotel answers back to let them know when their rooms will be ready.

Hard Rock Hotel San Diego ©


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4. In with Digital Signage, Out with Printed Signs Digital technology is replacing traditional printed signage information boards in hotels. Behind the front desk of the MGM

The Hyatt Union Square New York ©

Grand Hotel & Casino in Las Vegas is a huge video wall. One application allows guests in line, or anyone in the lobby, to send Twitter messages. Also, the hotel’s food and beverage outlets use digital signage boards to promote specials or events. 5. High Tech Meeting Spaces For meeting and event planners, high-tech electronic communication with hotels where they’ve scheduled events is streamlining this facet of the industry. Connecting in real time through smart technology allows the planner a link to a customised application days before an event, which the planner uses to make requests before they arrive on-site. During the event, the planners can request more drinks, a change in room temperature, or whatever is needed without leaving the room. This technology is facilitating a new way, in the way the planner, the hotel, and the customer connect and do business. 6. Free Wi-Fi According to a poll taken by the SmartBrief online service, 85 percent of travellers believe Wi-Fi in hotels should be free. Hotels approach the Wi-Fi topic differently to each other, with some offering the service for free, some it’s free for guests who enrol in a loyalty program, and others it’s not. It ultimately comes down to whether the hotel can afford to do it. Many travellers, especially the business demographic, now expect the service for free. Perhaps the middle ground is giving people the amount of Wi-Fi they need to check their emails and adding pricing tiers to the higher usage group. 7. The Centralised Tech-Lobby Lobby information centres are becoming a way for hotels to minimise, if not eliminate, the frustration of guests standing in line to ask a simple question, such as directions or a restaurant recommendation. Putting digital technology in lobbies provides pertinent information, such as news, stocks and weather. Additionally, further functionality,

such as flight information, local information about restaurants and concerts, and quickresponse code capabilities enable the guest to get information on a smartphone. 8. Social Media Continues to Play Its Part Hotels know they have to keep on top of the social media evolution and adopt the best practices in optimising marketing, communications and guest-service capabilities. The focus is now on investing in listening technology to ensure the hotel keeps in touch with guest reviews, comments and reactions. Some hotels are asking the public to share their ideas on a number of different categories, such as technology, space design and more. The next evolution of social media for hotels is talking to the community and making it part of their business. 9. Techno-Luxe Technology can have a luxurious effect on guests. There are a variety of ways hoteliers are increasing their luxury offerings through technology, including high-definition TVs embedded in bathroom mirrors, high-end sound/entertainment system brands, iPods, and even offering customised set lists of music downloads as offered by Hard Rock Hotels. 10. The Hotel Office Marriott now offers a Workspace on Demand service which allows non-hotel guests, such as small businesses and entrepreneurs, to book a meeting space at Marriott properties on half-day or full-day basis. Larger groups can book a meeting space that includes audio-visual equipment and Wi-Fi. Marriott found that in hotels there is a lot of underutilised space during the day, and they took the initiative and invited people in. So far, 35 hotels in the Marriott system have opted into the program, and they’ve received about 120 bookings in the first 90 days the service was offered.

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The Physical and Emotional Connections of the Five Vital Organs

Ken Dinsmore has a Bachelor of Science degree (Australia) and specialises in Traditional Chinese Medicine. Ken is currently residing in Bali and can be contacted via email: dinseys@gmail. com or by phone on 085857139015 for appointments.

By Ken Dinsmore

The foundations of traditional Chinese medicine dates back some five thousand years. The concept of Yin/Yang, together with the five elements, has permeated Chinese philosophy over the centuries and is radically different to any western philosophical idea. The earliest reference to Yin/Yang is in the “Book of Changes” dating back to about 700BC. In this book Yin and Yang are represented as broken and unbroken lines. The combinations of these form the eight trigrams. Finally, the various combinations of the trigrams give rise to the sixty-four hexagrams. These are supposed to symbolize all possible phenomena of the universe, and it therefore shows how all phenomena ultimately depend on the two poles of Yin and Yang. The diagram below shows the configuration of the eight trigrams in relation to nature.

medicine, music, military strategy, and the martial arts. The system is still used as a reference in the martial arts like Qi Gong, Kung Fu, and Tai Chi. The Elements The five elements are usually used to describe the state in nature. • Wood/Spring: (72 days) A period of growth, which generates abundant wood and vitality • Fire/Summer: (72 days) A period of swelling, flowering, brimming with fire and energy • Earth: (72 days = 4 x 18 days; 4 transitional seasons of 18 days each) The in-between transitional seasonal period, or a separate 'season' known as late summer or long summer - the latter case associated with levelling and dampening and fruition • Metal/Autumn: (72 days) A period of harvesting and collecting • Water/Winter: (72 days) A period of retreat where stillness and storage pervades

The following diagram (below) shows the five elements and their corresponding relationships within the human framework. Each element represents a solid vital organ, a hollow bowel, the five senses, five tissues, five pure emotions, the corresponding season, environmental factor, the five sounds, five colours, five tastes/flavours, direction, and time of day (activity).

Together with the theory of Yin/Yang, the theory of the five elements constitutes the basis of Chinese Medical theory. The early Greek philosophers such as Empedocles called the elements “roots”. Plato referred to them as “simple components” and Aristotle called them “primary form”. Whatever words were used, the Greek philosophers were unified that the elements were the basic building blocks or constituents in describing the qualities of natural phenomena. The system of five phases was used for describing interactions and relationships between phenomena. After it came to maturity in the second or first century BC during the Han Dynasty, this device was employed in many fields of early Chinese thought, including seemingly disparate fields such as geomancy, Feng Shui, astrology, traditional Chinese 20

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1 2

The doctrine of five phases describes two cycles; a generating or creation cycle, whereby water generates wood, wood generates fire, fire generates earth, earth generates metal, and metal generates water. The second cycle is called the controlling cycle whereby water controls fire, fire controls metal, metal controls wood, wood controls earth, and earth controls water. The mutual generating and controlling relationships among the elements is a fine model of the balancing processes to be seen in nature and the human body.

The concept of Yin/Yang is probably the single most important and distinctive theory of Chinese Medicine. It could be said that all Chinese medical physiology, pathology and treatment can, eventually, be reduced to Yin and Yang. The concept of Yin/Yang is extremely simple yet very profound.





Control/ Restriction

Eye Tendon Anger 7 Spring 8Wind 9 Calling Sound 10 Green 11Sour 12East 13 11pm-3am 4

1 2







Ear 5Bone 6Fear 7 Winter 8Cold 9 Deep Sighing 10 Black 11Salty 12 North 13 3pm-7pm

Tongue 5Blood Vessel Joy 7Summer 8Heat 9 Laughing 10Red 11 Bitter 12South 13 11am-3pm



1 2










1. Viscera 2. Bowels 3. Five Elements 4. Five Sense Organs 5. Five Tissues 6. Emotional Activity 7. Season 8. Environmental Factor 9. Sound 10. Colour 11. Taste 12. Direction 13. Time of Day

Mouth 5Muscle 6 Overthinking Late Summer 8Dampness 9 Singing 10Yellow 11 Sweet 12Middle 13 7am-11am 4

Nose 5Skin & Hair 6Grief 7 Autumn 8Dryness 9 Crying 10White 11 Spicy 12West 13 3am-7am


The diagram above shows corresponding patterns in cyclic form, and the table below shows the patterns in linear forms.













Mental Quality












Vital Organ






Hollow Organ

Gall Bladder

Small Intestine Stomach

Lage Intestine


Sensory Organ






Body Part






Body Fluid






























Life Phase




Old Age








THE PHYSICAL AND EMOTIONAL ASPECTS OF THE FIVE VITAL ORGANS The Heart The heart is considered to be the most important of all the internal organs, and is said to be the ‘ruler’ or ‘monarch’ that resides over the internal organs. The physical functions of the heart are to govern blood, control the blood vessels, manifest in the complexion, houses the mind, opens into the tongue, and controls sweat. The emotional aspect relates to mental activity. If the heart is strong with abundant blood, there will be normal mental activity, a balanced emotional life, clear consciousness, a good memory, clear thinking and good sleep. If the heart is weak and blood deficient then there may be mental problems such as anxiety, depression, poor memory, dull thinking, and insomnia with dream-disturbed sleep. The Liver The liver is often compared to an army general from where the strategy is derived, hence courage and resoluteness manifest

from the liver. The physical functions of the liver are to store blood, ensure the smooth flow of energy, moistens the sinews, opens into the eyes. The emotional aspect relates to the smooth flow of energy and blood. Long periods of unresolved anger, resentment and frustration can stagnant the flow, leading to stiff tight muscles, digestive disturbances, menstrual problems in women, and thinking becomes dull and foggy. The Lungs The lungs are like a minister from where the policies are issued. The physical functions of the lungs are to govern energy and respiration, control dispersing and descending the energy, regulate water passages, control skin and hair, and open into the nose. The emotional aspect relates to long periods of unresolved grief and sadness, which constrains the lungs leading to shallow breathing to the top lobes of lungs.

The Spleen The spleen is like a granary official from whom the five tastes are derived. The physical functions of the spleen are to govern transformation and transportation, control blood, control muscles and the four limbs, opens into the mouth and lips. The emotional aspect relates to thought; if the health of the spleen is abundant we will think clearly, concentrate and memorize easily. Conversely, excess studying and mental work or agitation over long periods can weaken the spleen. The Kidneys The kidneys are referred to as the root or gate of life, as they govern essence from our parents. They control birth, growth, reproduction, and development, producing marrow for the bones and brain. The emotional aspect relates to fear and willpower. Long periods of fear can weaken the kidneys and lead to a loss of will power. Working long hours with stress also weakens kidney energy.

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

© Wikipedia

Cheating on the Buses By Kenneth Yeung

This year marks the 10th anniversary of the Transjakarta busway: a public transport system beset by financial scams. Even before the project commenced, funds allocated for the busway were diverted to buy marked up equipment for the City Transportation Agency. This included laptops falsely priced at Rp.50 million each and walkie-talkies at Rp.8 million per unit. Fast-forward in the slow lane to 2014 and little has changed. Buses sold for the equivalent of Rp.1 billion ($86,300) each in China were being purchased for Jakarta’s busway at the marked up price of Rp.3 billion. Some of the buses from Chinese firm Ankai broke down within days and were found to contain faulty and rusty parts. Officials in the past have said the buses have an expected lifespan of just seven years. Breakdowns are not uncommon. There have even been fires on some buses. The busway network now spans over 170 kilometres and carries nearly 400,000 passengers each day. With tickets priced at Rp.3,500 (and Rp.2,500 from 5am to 7am), annual ticket revenue can be conservatively estimated at Rp.420 billion. The Transjakarta Management Body operated in 2013 with a budget of Rp.1.3 trillion, of which Rp.886 billion was provided by the Jakarta Regional Budget. Funds allocated for maintenance and cleaning crews do not seem to be put to good use. The busway operates 12 corridors, with fleets that vary greatly in quality. Among the worst are the grey rattletraps plying Corridor 6, which goes through Kuningan, linking Ragunan and Dukuh Atas 2. Seats are broken, door hinges and gaskets are missing, there are holes in some floors, and broken “automatic” doors are tied shut with wire and plastic. The ticketing system is supposed to be fully automated so that all commuters can use e-tickets. In January 2013, several banks began selling durable e-tickets, which are ‘tapped’ at entrance turnstiles and can be topped up with credit. A non-government organisation called the Citizens Coalition for Transport Management Demand led the push for e-ticketing, warning that manual ticket sales could be prone to manipulation and misuse of proceeds. Most tickets are still sold manually and printed on paper that does no favours for the environment. Upon entering a busway terminal or shelter, commuters line up to purchase tickets measuring 15cm by

7.5cm. A stub of the ticket is then torn off and kept by a turnstile attendant, who usually uses an e-ticket to tap each commuter through a single turnstile. The large remainder of the ticket instantly becomes rubbish as the buses have no ticket inspectors. The size of the tickets could be reduced by half or more, if Transjakarta wanted to save money and paper. Ticket vending machines could also be introduced. Transjakarta’s environmental policies are on display at Harmoni, one of its busiest terminals. There, bus guards throw their daily lunch wrappers and other plastic waste into an adjacent canal and onto the road. Harmoni is the same terminal where guards were recently accused of molesting a woman who had fainted on a bus. Some ticket vendors are prone to slowness in giving change. A commuter hands over Rp.5,000 and is immediately given a ticket, while the Rp.1,500 change can take much longer to materialise and is sometimes placed almost out of reach, as if in the hope it will be left behind. Still, that’s peanuts compared to the massive mark-ups in the cost of “new” buses. The case was reported by an NGO to the Corruption Eradication Commission, which is yet to launch an investigation. The city administration confirmed there were irregularities but instead referred the case to the Supreme Audit Agency. Deputy Jakarta Governor Basuki ‘Ahok’ Purnama has suggested Transjakarta should in future purchase buses made by European firms such as Mercedes Benz and Scania. Corruption aside, one of the main problems facing the busway is that its dedicated lanes are often encroached upon and jammed by motorists. Police in late 2013 began enforcing fines of Rp.500,000 for motorcycles and Rp.1 million for cars in the busway lanes. Since then, ongoing enforcement has been haphazard. Police recently launched a website — http:// — where people can upload photos of vehicles transgressing the busway lanes. Supposedly the motorists will then be summoned and fined. Despite the criticism, the busway is great — when it works. Managers just need to learn to have buses running in five-minute frequencies, rather than have five buses travelling one immediately after the other and then a gap of 15 minutes before the next bus.

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Francesco Ricciardi is a freelance photographer and journalist based in Bali. PhD in Marine Biology and diving instructor, he uses his camera to uncover the wonders of Indonesian marine and terrestial wildlife. His website:

the surabaya zoo: “the zoo of death”

A Concentration Camp for Animals By Francesco Ricciardi

Even in optimal conditions, zoological gardens, or ‘zoos’, are often golden jails for the imprisoned animals. When the conditions and the care of these animals are inhumane, a prison becomes a concentration camp. In the Surabaya Zoo, probably one of the worst zoos in the world, animals are dying at an astounding rate.

the last few months, more than 50 animals have died in KBS and about 600 have died since 2010. The Jakarta Globe reported that 43 animals died at the zoo between July 15 and September 17, 2013.

Modern zoos declare that the exhibition of wild animals is primarily for the conservation of such endangered species, as well as for research purposes and education, and secondarily for the entertainment of visitors. I understand that for many people living in big cities, a visit to the local zoo may be the only way to see (ex) wild animals. However, we should expect a guarantee that every effort is made to maintain the animals’ good health, both physically and mentally.

The zoo’s spokesperson declared that these animals died because “they were old or had diseases”. Could these be diseases like that of a Sumatran Tiger (heavily endangered in the wild), whose digestive tract was rotted away after it was routinely fed with formaldehyde-laced meat? There are fewer than 400 Sumatran tigers left in the world. How can it be possible to mistreat such a precious animal? 10 Sumatran tigers (about 3% of the total world population of this species) still live in the Surabaya Zoo, where they will probably die without having the chance to reproduce.

Even when the ‘educational’ and ‘conservation’ purposes are respected, they remain questionable; the creation of natural reserves in the wild and the protection of the habitat of endangered species have been already demonstrated as the right way to get important results in the conservation field. Very few zoological gardens or aquariums in the world are really successful in breeding endangered species, and I have never heard about some of them actively reintroducing endangered animals back to the wild.

“The holding facilities were shocking, wet all the time,” said Tony Sumampau, the head of the Indonesian Zoological Parks Association and now a consultant to the zoo after the former management was removed. “Most of the animals died because they got pneumonia, lung disease, TB, or from digestion problems because of the food supply.” Nothing short of a "total renovation" is needed, he said. "We need to either think about privatizing or transferring out some of the animals."

The Surabaya Zoo, or Kebun Binatang Surabaya (KBS), was founded in 1916 and is one of the largest zoos in Southeast Asia, covering 37 acres and housing over 350 species; home to around 4,000 animals. In

The meat was apparently supplied by a staffrun business. They bought it cheap then sold it to the zoo at a big mark-up to make more money. Another staff-owned company cut weeds from the side of the heavily polluted

Surabaya River to sell for herbivore food. Some other staff are responsible for the disappearance of animals like some Komodo Dragons, probably sold on the black market. Apparently KBS staff is divided into two different factions linked to two former zoo employees, both of them claiming to be the Zoo’s Chief, but was fired in the last few years. This internal conflict even led to the poisoning of a Javan warthog, found with traces of cyanide in his stomach. "One side is always trying to discredit the other," said Ludvie Achmad, head of a local conservation agency. Sumampouw acknowledged he has had little success in controlling the undisciplined staff. Orangutans are left dying in their enclosures, sharing their space with rats, while some nature reserves in Kalimantan are actively working to reintroduce rescued orangutans in their habitat. Elephants, animals that normally walk more than 50 km per day in the wild, are tethered with chains, making it impossible for them to make a single step. The efforts of the animals to get rid of the chains have caused lacerations on their skin, resulting in a painful infection. Avian cages are heavily overpopulated with pelicans, herons and ibises. All of them are not endangered species, so there is absolutely no need to keep so many of them in such a limited space. The breeding of some species is totally out of control. Like almost everywhere in Indonesia, plastic rubbish inside the Surabaya Zoo

Dua Tangan Cukup Positive actions from across the archipelago Dua Tangan Cukup (Two Hands are Enough) is a movement started by Clean Up Jakarta Day, under Indonesia Expat, which encourages actions to clean up the environment, small or big, from people of all walks of life around Indonesia, which will in turn inspire change. We want to hear about what you’re doing to clean up your community and make a difference and we will publish your stories here, every issue. This could be a beach cleanup, an underwater cleanup, a recycling initiative you are putting together where you live, educating people how to separate waste or anything related to cleaning up your community. All you need are your hands and a bit of spare time to make a difference!


indonesia expat issue 113

Staff of Aston Belitung carried out their Dua Tangan Cukup action on the island of Belitung, off the southeast coast of Sumatra. Belitung Island is known for its beautiful beaches, however rubbish washing up on the shores of these beaches is still a problem. This is why the staff of this hotel cleaned up their beach in an effort to make a difference in their community and inspire positive actions from other people. 50 staff members cleaned up Tanjung Pendam beach for two hours, collecting a total of 850 kg of rubbish. Keep up the great work, guys! What’s your Dua Tangan Cukup action? Send it in to inspire change in others! E-mail:

is a huge problem. One giraffe died last year with 20 kg of plastic bags in its stomach after they blew into its cage and weren't cleared. It was relying almost only on the food provided by the visitors, and packed candies were a predominant part of its diet. Groups of Proboscis monkeys are left scavenging in the rubbish bins, which are rarely emptied by the zoo’s staff. Sheep and goats chew on plastic bags. A local group of environmentalists’ called Saatnya Diet Tas Kresek, aiming to stop the use of plastic bags inside the zoo’s facilities, had no success and animals are still eating and chewing plastic. These conditions, as horrifying as they are, have actually improved in the last three years, since a temporary management was installed by the local government to try and stop the bad image and the complaints received. Apparently, even if some little improvements are made, we’re still very far from guaranteeing the animals’ survival in the zoo. It’s not enough and further actions should be taken. A report by an independent team set up by Indonesia’s forestry ministry called for the animals to be moved to other zoos, but nothing has been done yet. Other Indonesian zoos refused to take the animals because of their condition and the fear that many of them carry diseases. Ian Singleton, the director of the Sumatran Orangutan Conservation Program, says Indonesia's 40 zoos are “still highly unregulated and simply milking the small entrance fees”. All but a handful fail to meet international standards. Many important petitions have been launched to ask the Indonesian government to close KBS and guarantee the imprisoned animals the necessary care they need. The petition (http://www. has already reached almost 150,000 signatures, but many other are still ongoing. The imprisoned animals cannot fight for their freedom by themselves; they urgently need our help. Please sign it.

the thin light blue line

* Answers in the next edition!



By Eamonn Sadler (

I was in Seoul, South Korea a couple of weeks ago on a business trip and after the conclusion of our business, my partners there arranged for me to visit the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). I had heard of the place and I have always been interested in the Second World War, so after they told me where we were going I was very pleased and intrigued, and, I must admit, a little excited. I know that the purists among you are now thinking “the Korean war is not part of the Second World War”, but I would argue that it is. And you’ll notice that the purists and I refer to the Korean War in the present tense, because North Korea and South Korea have merely been in cease-fire since 1953, so as of now the war is actually still going on — and there have been many deadly cross-border skirmishes since the official cease-fire came into effect. Most purists will also say that the Korean War is the last battle of the Cold War, not the Second World War, but since the Cold War is effectively the last battle of the Second World War (the Russians just became the enemy immediately after Germany and Japan surrendered), I would argue that the Korean War is the last battle of the Second World War and it’s still going on. And since the Second World War was effectively a continuation of the First World War, what you see in the DMZ is real living history, part of one of the immense and bloody battles that have shaped our world. North Korean and South Korean soldiers stare at each other across the border at the DMZ 24 hours a day. On the south side, soldiers of the army of the Republic of Korea (ROK) are supported visibly by the UN in the form of US Marines. On the north side soldiers of the army of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) are supported invisibly but much more ominously by the Chinese. Before you go in, the tour guides warn you not to

point at the North Korean soldiers because they are a bit skittish and may think you are pointing some kind of weapon at them. They also warn you not to wave at them, because apparently the North Koreans photograph everything and they have been known to use photographs of people waving towards North Korea as propaganda in their country, proving to their people that westerners envy them and want to communicate with them. But the most amazing part of the DMZ tour is inside what they refer to as the JSA, or Joint Security Area. Inside this area there is a light blue (UN coloured) hut with a conference table inside. The official border between North Korea and South Korea runs down the centre of this table and the two armies take turns controlling the hut. Tours from the south only operate on days when the ROK army is in control of course, so during the visit you can walk round the table and actually set foot in North Korea — something not many people can claim to have done. While you are there, the amazingly disciplined (and patient) soldiers of the ROK on guard inside the hut live up to their acronym by standing so still that I actually had to look very closely to check if they were real people or statues. Admittedly, I had been somewhat prepared for this confusion earlier in the day by asking a life-size statue just outside the gift shop for directions to the toilet. If you ever get the chance to go there, finish your tour with a visit to the invasion tunnels, which the South Koreans discovered in 1974, 1975, 1978 and 1990. These tunnels were built under the DMZ by the North Koreans and were intended to go all the way to Seoul with the sole (sorry) purpose of taking the capital by force. The ROK government believes there may be many more tunnels as yet undiscovered, and has spent a great deal of money on very sensitive underground listening equipment. To make it very clear how delicate the peace on the border is, every visitor is asked to sign a waiver before entering the DMZ, saying that they will not blame anyone if they are injured or killed or captured by the North Koreans while on site. You don’t have to sign it, but if you don’t you won’t be allowed in. Sign it.

To read more by Eamonn Sadler, go to to find out more about live Stand-Up Comedy in Indonesia please e-mail text or call 0821 1194 3084 or register at

WANT FREE TICKETS TO THE COMEDY CLUB? SMS YOUR NAMES FOR A CHANCE TO WIN 2 TICKETS TO JAKARTA OR BALI COMEDY CLUB! 0821 1194 3084 Congratulations to raymond in Jakarta! You and a friend will be enjoying the next comedy cluB ON US!



1. Cheap table wine (3,9)

2. Receive from a predecessor (7)

9. Alternative - unrelated (5)

3. Monstrous person (4)

10. Survey people for opinions (7)

4. Physician (6)

11. A former name for the Republic of Ireland (4)

5. Matchless thing (8)

12. Renounced with determination (8)

6. Sexually mature adult insect (5)

14. Loathing (6)

7. Tears bent one (anag) - which is worn for

15. Beetle regarded as divine by ancient Egyptians (6)

a special parade (6,6) 8. Knowing no more than before (4,3,5)

18. Rolled about in something liquid (8)

13. Part of aircraft giving lift (8)

20. Shock - move - change course (4)

16. Get-together of old friends (7)

22. Sunset (7)

17. Spiritualist meeting (6)

23. Type of corn (5)

19. Inelegantly tall and thin (5)

24. Marriage of Prince or Princess (5,7)

21. Between (4)

Answers of issue 112 ACROSS — 2. Cape 3. Scimitar 8. Atom 9. Red dwarf 11. Philosophy 14. Oracle 15. Sphere 17. Equivalent 20. Cardinal 21. Mess 22. Resolved 23. Hymn DOWN — 1. Champion 2. Prodigal 4. Chekov 5. Midshipman 6. Tear 7. Riff 10. Colloquial 12. Cemetery 13. Jettison 16. Pirate 18. Scar 19. Arms

spotted pic - send your funny pics to

'TONGSIS' - Tongkat Narsis (Narcissism Stick) Spotted by Adinda Simandjuntak

There are a number of things that I believe everyone should do before they die (other than “shout for help” as the great Jimmy Carr once said). I won’t bore you with my personal bucket list, but I will tell you about something I did recently that jumped on to my ‘recommended’ list as soon as I did it.

IS MADE POSSIBLE BY: issue 113 indonesia expat



Indonesia Announces World’s Largest Manta Ray Sanctuary ACROSS THE ARCHIPELAGO — Last month, Indonesia became home to the world's largest manta ray sanctuary, covering millions of square kilometres, as it seeks to protect the huge winged fish and draw more tourists. New legislation gives full protection to the creatures across all the waters surrounding Indonesia, which for years has been the world's largest shark and ray fishery. Protection group Conservation International hailed the "bold" move and said it was influenced by a recent government-backed review that showed a single manta ray was worth one million dollars in tourism revenue over its lifetime. This compares to between US$40 and US$500 if caught and killed, the group said. Many foreign tourists come to Indonesia every year to dive in some

of the world's most biodiverse waters and manta rays are a favourite sight. "Indonesia now has the second-largest manta ray tourism industry in the world, with an estimated annual turnover of US$15 million," said Agus Dermawan, a senior official from the ministry of marine affairs and fisheries. "Given the huge area of reefs and islands in our country, if managed properly, Indonesia could become the top manta tourism destination on the planet." The new legislation protects manta rays within Indonesia's 5.8 million square kilometres of ocean, banning fishing of the rays and their export. It came a year after the local government in Raja Ampat announced the creation of a 46,000-square-kilometre shark and ray sanctuary.

Cantigi Wine & Dine Relaunch BANDUNG — Cantigi Wine & Dine re-launched its concept in February 2014, to reveal a more relaxed, unpretentious and friendly restaurant. Cantigi, with a seating capacity of 50 persons, is the ideal place to cater to those who wish to have a private, intimate and exclusive dining experience.

SKAL Bali Members Go Italian at Prego BALI —The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali was delighted to host an uplifting luncheon at Prego for SKAL Bali in February. SKAL is an international organization that brings together all sides of the travel and tourism industry. The group meets on a monthly basis to network and share ideas in a social environment. Over 65 SKAL members were in attendance and enjoyed a delicious Italian menu created especially for the occasion by Westin’s Executive Chef, Mauro Bellodi. Since launching late last year, this lively eatery has hosted a number of events for groups such as SKAL Bali.

Menu selections include Asian Fusion Tapas dishes that combine elements of different culinary traditions in exciting, new ways. Furthermore, other menu choices include prime grill selections featuring Australian Black Angus Beef and Tasmanian Salmon. Open nightly from 6pm, Cantigi Wine & Dine is located in The Papandayan Hotel on Jalan Gatot Subroto 83, Bandung. Phone: +62 (22) 7310 799.

One Eleven Declares 30 Days of Chocolate BALI — One Eleven, Seminyak, Bali, shares the decadence of chocolate and new beginnings this April with Chocolate = I II, an experience for chocolate lovers not to be missed. An adults-only luxury abode of nine villas; each with a private pool and a spa gazebo is sure to put everyone in a good mood for what is yet to come. With lovers of this velvety goodness in mind, One Eleven introduces a choice of a 2 Night or 3 Night stay with daily treats to enhance the production of endorphins and for the night, an aphrodisiac of the familiar courtship ritual. The indulgence of chocolate will begin on arrival with a specially concocted April chocolate cocktail and


indonesia expat issue 113

daily at the tipple hour of 5pm, a visit from the One Eleven mixologist who will introduce a daily selection of cocktails, both virgin and not, all inspired by the smooth richness of brown nectar accompanied with a selection of canapés. Also during their stay, guests will enjoy a body and soul rejuvenation with the in-house spa’s signature treatment, TABOO, a treat for two, not to be consumed. Further seduction will follow with One Eleven’s turndown service, where guests can expect chocolate inspired treats to warm the hearts with large loving cups of ice cream, chocolate body scrubs and chocolate fondues to be shared. Book directly at the resort’s website, or e-mail

issue 113 indonesia expat




Komodo Junior Rugby Every Saturday The Jakarta Komodo Junior Rugby Club invites children of 5-14 years of age to join them in a weekly practice session. Children can enroll to the club during practice sessions, from 9am to 10.30am every Saturday until April 2014. Find the Junior Rugby Club at Jagorawi Golf & Country Club, Jalan Karanggan Raya, Cibinong, Bogor. For more information on joining the club, call (0812) 1037-454 or e-mail: Website:

If you want your event to be posted here, please contact (+62) 0 21 7179 4550 or e-mail:

Red Nose in Concert 15 March 2014 Red Nose in Concert will be held at The Foundry 8, in the Sudirman Central Business District (SCBD). The show will start at 7pm and end at midnight. Gugun Blues Shelter, Barr y Likumahuwa Project, Glenn Fredly, and Sandy Sandoro will perform; more to be confirmed. General admission ticket is Rp.150,000 (including one free drink) and VIP ticket is Rp.500,000 (including free flow of beer). 100% of the proceeds ra ised on the night w ill go toward supporting the personal and educational development of more than 240 underprivileged children in the Red Nose centres in Cilincing, North Jakarta, and Bintaro Lama, South Jakarta. To purchase tickets, call (021) 769-1162 or send an e-mail to Concertgoers can also purchase the tickets at The Foundry 8. Please RSVP.


will have players from around the world competing for the championship title. For more information on the tournament, v i s i t w w w. i n d o n e s i a p g a

Jakarta Flea Market is back! Find vintage clothing, accessories, houseware, food & drink and other exciting finds at the Jakarta Flea Market. It will be held on Friday and Saturday (28 & 29 March) starting at 10am to 8pm. Jakarta Flea Market will be taking place at Lapangan Blok S Jalan Suryo, Kebayoran Baru. For more details, call 0816 1147-307. FOOD & DRINK

Bruno Mars Moonshine Jungle Tour 24 March 2014 The talented musician known a s Br u no Ma r s w i l l f i na l ly ma ke a much-a nt icipat ed appearance in Jakarta. As part of his Moonshine Jungle Tour, he w ill per form at the Mata Elang International Stadium at Ancol Beach City 3 rd Floor, Pantai Carnaval, Taman Impian Jaya Ancol. Tickets range from Rp.800,000 to Rp.3,500,000. For more information, visit www. or call (021) 7179-6214. ART

Embassy Night at Ritz Carlton Every Wednesday The Ritz Carlton Hotel in Mega Kuningan has a special deal every Wednesday at Tempus; complimentary light bites and half pr ice draught beer and cocktails. Available starting 6pm. Ritz Carlton Mega Kuningan is located at Jalan Lingkar Mega Kuningan Kav. E 1.1 No. 1, Mega Kuningan, Jakarta. Ritz Carlton can be reached on (021) 25518888. PHOTOGRAPHY

Royal Society of St. George (RSSG) Casino Royale Sokola Rimba Screening 17 March 2014 The Indonesian Heritage Society is holding an open screening for ‘Sokola Rimba’, an Indonesian mov ie by R ir i R iza & Mira Lesmana, adopted from a book by Butet Manurung of the same name. This appreciation for Indonesian cinema features a story of tradition, culture and modernization in Indonesia that will be on show at 10am at the Japan Foundation, Gedung Summitmas I 2nd floor, Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 61–62, South Jakarta. To reserve a seat, e-mail or call (021) 572-5870. Website: www. CHARITY

5 April 2014 Lose your money for charity! The Jakarta branch of the Royal Society of St. George invites you to play your favourite casino games and tricks, all for charity purposes. Tickets are Rp.650,000 per person and includes food, free f low of sparkling, red and white wine, beer or soft drinks. Guests are encouraged to dress accordingly; it is a black tie event. Proceeds go to SOS Children’s Villages charity. Contact Ingrid B a k e r f o r t i c k e t s o n 0 81 3 8281-2682 or by e -m a i l i ng

16–23 March 2014 Viveash is an experienced and a c c ompl i she d l i fe s t yle a nd por trait photog rapher f rom the UK. She’s been liv ing in Jakarta for quite some time and is now having a photography exhibition, displaying the work she accumulated in Jakarta. The exhibition tells stories of the underdogs and the overlooked in Jakarta, titled ‘Ladies of Jakarta’. Check out Viveash’s work at Jack’s Labs Gallery, 14 Jalan Benda Raya, Cilandak. Contact for details of the exhibition. Website: www.



Enjoy Jakarta PGA Golf Championship 27-30 March 2014 The Indonesia PGA Championship — in collaboration with Enjoy Ja k a r t a , Ja p a n G o l f To u r Organization and OneAsia - will commence on 27 March 2014 at the first Jack Nicklaus-designed course in Indonesia, the Damai Indah Golf at Bumi Serpong Damai (BSD), located at Jl. Bukit Golf 1 Sektor VI, Tangerang. This massive US$1million tournament


indonesia expat issue 113

Viveash Photography Exhibition

Jakarta Flea Market 28–29 March 2014

Sri Lanka Photography Tour 4–15 August 2014 David Metcalf is offering you a chance for an odyssey you don’t want to miss; a photography tour to Sri Lanka. Amidst the architecture r uins, w ildlife, beautif ul tea pla nt ations, colourful ceremonies, rainforests and mountain peaks, you can capture some of the greatest images of your lifetime. ‘Sri Lanka – The Undiscovered Country’ w i l l be g uided by sea soned photographers, David Metcalf and Mark Rayner. This tour is set to take place around the full moon time. Photographers will start in Colombo with vibrant street photography to Balipitya with its extensive birdlife, then to Koggara where f ishermen balance themselves on stilts with the sunset on the background. To join this photography tour, send an e-mail to davidmetcalf3@ m a c . c o m o r v i s i t w w w.


Culture and History, as well as Cross-Cultural Communication. The event w ill take place at Aud it or iu m K 10, Gra duat e Studies Program of UNESA (The State University of Surabaya), Ketintang Campus, Surabaya from 8am–4pm. Contact 0813 3030-8890 for more information on the conference.

Sunday Market Re-opening 16 March 2014 The famous Sunday Market in Sanur will be re-opening. It will be open every Sunday, until further notice, from 10am to 4pm at Sand Restaurant, Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur. Vendors will have their products on offer at the market, such as organic fruits and vegetables, fashion items, accessories and recycled products A recycling drop-off point will also be at the market for your convenience. For the first Sunday, 16 March, Bali Bird Park will be joining the Sunday market from 10am–12pm. For more details, contact 0812 1888-3343. HEALTH

Bali Spirit Festival 2014 19–23 March 2014 Intertwining yoga, dance and music, the Bali Spirit Festival is a celebration of a happy and healthy life with a musical lineup that includes artists from Indonesia, the UK, US, Sweden, Australia and more; making this festival a melting pot of the East and the West. The silver lining of the festival is the yoga gatherings; conducted by instructors from a ll over the world, like L es Leventhal from the US, Sumei Shum from Singapore, Nadine McNeil from Jamaica , John Ogilvie from Australia and lots more. Bali Spirit Festival takes place in two locations in Ubud; Purnati Centre for the Arts and ARMA Open Stage & Museum. For hotel packages, tickets and shuttle information, visit www. or send an e-mail to info@balispiritfestival. com


Asia Creative Writing Conference 21–22 March 2014 Surabaya will be the host of the Asia Creative Writing Conference this March. The conference will focus on discussions on the importance of cultural identity in creative w r iting a nd the imagination behind it. Some key aspects to be discussed are Applied Linguistic, Literature,


Ramayana Ballet Performance at Prambanan Every Tuesdays, Thursdays & Saturdays This is a must-see performance of the Ramayana story told in a majestic theatrical performance on show at the indoor theatre of the Taman Wisata Candi Prambanan. This show is purposefully staged at the place where the story of Ramayana took place; the Prambanan temple. You can purchase tickets with prices ranging from Rp.100,000 to Rp.200,000. The performance starts at 7.30pm until 9.30pm for every day of the showing. The venue is located on Jl. Raya Yogya-Solo km 16, Prambanan, Jog jakarta. Call (0274) 496408 for an up-to-date schedule of the performance. Website: temple/ramayanaPrambanan


Borneo Photography Tour 2014 26 May–3 June 2014 Join experienced photographers Dayak Dave Metcalf and Mark R ay ner in an ex pedition to photograph the wild Borneo jungles. This is a photography tour for those who would like to w itness a nd c apture the breathtaking beauty of Central K a limantan, which ha s a vibrant wildlife. The tour will also include the opportunity to capture the Dayak culture and tradition while exploring remote villages. Dave and Mark have a wealth of experience in photography tours that they could share with you. Visit www. for more details and to reserve a space on the tour.


playing two songs, one of which was titled ‘Do You Love Me’. Butler joked around and directed the words ‘do you love me’ on this song to Maya Hasan as he expressed how beautiful she was and pretended to woo her. The audience laughed as Maya blushed. Butler’s raspy yet strong voice is reminiscent of old Motown singers; smooth and soulful.

By Gabriella Panjaitan

India Arie

The energy was high as I stepped onto the premises of Jakarta International EXPO Kemayoran, Jakarta. The 10th annual Java Jazz Festival was in session and it sure brought a big crowd. This year’s special show performances were the ever-so-energetic (and perpetually drunk) Jamie Cullum — who treats the stage and his piano as a dance floor — on Friday, and the graceful Natalie Cole on Sunday. The last day of the festival didn’t show signs of slowing down as the excitement for a climactic finale brewed. As many made their way in on Sunday, bands were playing on the centre outdoor stage, pumping up concertgoers’ excitement. The venue was divided into a couple of indoor stages and an outdoor stage, as well as a couple of rooms on the upper floor of the main building and a couple of smaller café-oriented stages.

Natalie Cole

Joey Alexander & Barry Likumahuwa

Jamie Cullum

All photos above courtesy of

For some reason, show schedules were not printed out as fliers on that last day of the festival; the only way to check for performance venue and time was to consult the directory map at the information desk. The time was 4.45pm and the schedule showed that performers like Joey Alexander was about to wrap up his performance in 15 minutes or so. I wasn’t going to miss out on the chance to watch a 10-year-old jazz piano prodigy in action, so I rushed to the room he was playing in. Lo and behold, Joey was playing with renowned Indonesian bass player, Barry Likumahuwa; it was a fusion of genius and madness. Catching the last 10 minutes of that performance was quite an experience; Joey’s talent is out-of-thisworld. Before Joey Alexander Trio’s final number, Peter Gontha, the man behind Java Jazz Festivals since its birth in 2004, made an appearance and congratulated Joey for being a star in Indonesia’s jazz industry. Joey signed off with an endearing, “Thanks for watching, everybody.” The thing with jazz festivals, or any festival for that matter, is the waiting period between seeing one highly sought-after artist to the next; the tendency to wander around and exploring lesser-known names is high. I, for one, am glad for the waiting period as I had the chance to experience the artistry of a band I’ve heard of but have not paid considerable attention to — Snarky Puppy. For a name that seems unfamiliar to most, Snarky Puppy’s performance drew a sizeable crowd. The seven-man band

that hails from New York and Texas didn’t expect such a turnout at the show. A band whose genre is more funk-fusion than pure jazz, Snarky Puppy’s signature style is their groovy beat and interesting licks. Devoted fans sang along and danced to their songs. As it turns out, Snarky Puppy is a force to be reckoned with. Around 7 pm, the crowd thinned out from some of the stages and saturated the special show venue, all in anticipation of the great Natalie Cole. Others, like myself, chose to see the American up-and-comer Allen Stone instead. The powerhouse singer showed incredible musicianship as he went from the upbeat and funky song titled ‘Satisfaction’ to slower blues-oriented ballads like ‘Million’; an all-around stellar show. Attendees who went to Stone’s Friday performance were stunned at the amount of energy there was on stage at his Sunday performance. “People had a more laid-back approach on Friday, they were sitting down and were more relaxed, but today’s crowd was much more enthusiastic,” said Trina, an Allen Stone fan who went to both shows. Allen’s set consisted mostly of songs from his upcoming album; his soulful Marvin Gayeesque influence is deeply rooted and clearly apparent even in his newer tunes. Towards

The very last show of the day, and the final one for the whole festival, was India Arie’s. Fans of India Arie would know that her deep alto voice and beautiful, tasty riffs are the bread and butter of her music. However, watching her singing live is a whole different experience compared to simply listening to her records. India is truly an engaging performer, taking her audience on a journey throughout the show. She started her set by announcing that this is a “songversation”, a term she used to describe the interactive nature of her show and the title of her latest album. India proceeded with her well-known songs such as ‘Video’, ‘Brown Skin’ and ‘Cocoa Butter’, all the while giving a chance for all her band members and background singers to have solo singing parts - and they all have impressive voices! India’s music has imprints of African as well as Middle Eastern influence amidst her R&B sound. India brought audience members on a spiritual journey when, in between songs, she explained the background behind writing them. She quoted James Baldwin’s “Love is a battle, love is a war, love is a growing up” and stated that most of the songs she wrote are on love – love of yourself, of others, of your body, of your

"Fans of India Arie would know that her deep alto voice and beautiful, tasty riffs are the bread and butter of her music. However, watching her singing live is a whole different experience compared to simply listening to her records." the end of his show, Allen sang a bluesy rendition of Bob Marley’s ‘Is This Love’ and the crowd went wild! Winding down from the highly explosive Allen Stone show, I went to a more intimate one featuring Jonathan Butler. The seasoned singer-songwriter and guitarist, who’s also well-known in the gospel music circuits, played a set of R&B and jazz songs, some more funky and upbeat and others were perfect to accompany a slow two-step dance. Butler’s horn section — one trumpet and one saxophone player — coloured his show with their skilful solos and playful riffs. Butler called to the stage a lady he met the night before to join him; it was Maya Hasan, Indonesia’s famous harpist. Maya joined Butler and the band on her harp

inner power – and that the purpose of her music is to spread love and positivity. India’s mum made an appearance and displayed her vocal prowess on the closing number, a snippet of ‘Soulbird Rise’. The night ended with an encore performance of ‘I Am Ready for Love’. A well-deserved climactic finale, India was. Her performance, and essentially Java Jazz Festival as a whole, came to a close at around 12.30am. For those who feel that Java Jazz Festival is not sticking true to its jazz origins, remember that jazz was the predecessor of many other genres. And like the evolving jazz music, we can only hope that the Java Jazz Festival will bring us even more local and international talent next year.

issue 113 indonesia expat


HAVE SOMETHING TO SELL? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Indonesia Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 15.000 copies bi-weekly. Next deadline: 18 March

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indonesia expat issue 113

Indonesia Expat is recruiting! We are looking for a Distribution Manager (local) to look after subscriptions and distributions of our publications around Indonesia. The position will be based in Kemang, however a lot of work will be done outside of the office checking distribution points. This position would suit someone who is organized, with admin and Microsoft Excel experience, good command of the English language, and friendly over the phone and face-to-face. The ideal candidate will own motorcycle. Attractive package available for the right candidate. Please send CV to Only successful candidates will be contacted for interview. Good luck! Full Time and Part Time vacancies are now available for experienced English language instructors for corporate courses around Jakarta. Competitive rates and travel allowance are offered. Please send your CV to recruitment@ A n i m a l S a n c t u a r y Tr u s t I n d o n e s i a ( A S T I ; w w w. animalsanctuarytrustindonesia. org), a rescue/rehabilitation center for endangered animals situated in Megamendung near Bogor, is seeking a Jakarta-based volunteer to assist with marketing T-shirts featuring ASTI animals. Due to the nature of our work which requires peace and quiet for the animals, we have little traffic through our site. This creates challenges for us concerning developing a market for our T-shirts. We would also welcome an arrangement with a Jakarta-based business willing to handle our line of T-shirts. Please contact Annette at annette. for further information. Maid/Nanny and driver needed. For three months — April to July. Kemang area. Maid/Nanny must speak and read english and have experience with western cooking. Thanks.

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issue 113 indonesia expat


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issue 113 indonesia expat



indonesia expat issue 113

Indonesia Expat - issue 113  
Indonesia Expat - issue 113