SAINT LAURENT
TIMELESS SIMPLICITY
WOMEN’S WINTER 24/25
BY INDIA ALLEN
FOLLOWING ON FROM THE FASHION PRODUCT MODULE, I WILL BE CONSTRUCTING THE JACKET I DESIGNED, AS WELL AS STYLING AND VISUALLY COMMUNICATING IT IN THE STYLE OF MY CHOSEN BRAND, WHILE KEEPING THE TARGET AUDIENCE IN MIND. IN ORDER TO DO THIS, I WILL BE RESEARCHING MY CHOSEN BRAND, SAINT LAURENT, TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THEIR BRAND IDENTITY AND HISTORY. I WILL ALSO USE THIS RESEARCH TO UNDERSTAND THEIR COMMUNICATION STYLES, AS WELL AS THEIR PHOTOGRAPHY, MODEL AND STYLING CHOICES. FROM THIS, I WILL RESEARCH STYLISTS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS THAT I COULD TAKE INSPIRATION FROM. THIS WILL LEAD ME TO FINALLY STYLING AND SHOOTING THE JACKET TO PRESENT IT IN THE STYLE OF VISUAL COMMUNICATION I FIND MOST FITTING FOR THIS BRAND.
CUSTOMER PROFILE
THE TARGET AUDIENCE FOR THIS COLLECTION IS INFLUENCED BY SAINT LAURENT’S CUSTOMER. THIER TARGET AUDIENCE IS SAID TO BE MADE UP OF MEN AND WOMEN BETWEEN THE AGES OF 20 AND 40. DESPITE THIS, THEY HAVE TARGETED AN OLDER AUDIENCE ON MANY OCCASIONS. THIER TARGET AUDIENCE INCLUDES MIDDLE TO UPPER CLASS, FASHION CONNOISSEURS, AND PEOPLE WHO CARRY A MORE PROFESSIONAL IMAGE. THIS COLLECTION TARGETS MORE OF THEIR YOUNGER AUDIENCE, FITTING IN WITH THE CONCEPT OF BEING TIMELESS AND LETTING CLOTHES GROW AND MOVE WITH YOU.
TIMELESS SIMPLICITY
‘TIMELESS SIMPLICITY’ IS A COLLECTION FOR AUTUMN/ WINTER 24/25. INSPIRATION FOR THIS COLLECTION COMES FROM THE CONNECTION THAT PEOPLE HAVE WITH CLOTHING.
DESIGNING TIMELESS PIECES THAT MOVE AND GROW WITH YOU WILL BE AT THE HEART OF THIS COLLECTION, BY EXPLORING IDEAS AROUND DOPAMINE DRESSING, HAVING A PERSONAL CONNECTION TO CERTAIN GARMENTS AND FINDING POSITIVITY THROUGH CLOTHING. THIS COLLECTION IS HEAVILY INFLUENCED BY CLASSIC FASHION, AND FINDING A WAY TO DESIGN PIECES THAT CREATE A POSITIVE FEELING AND A SENSE OF COMFORT.
BRAND COMMUNICATION
BRANDS COMMUNICATE IN DIFFERENT WAYS DEPENDING ON THEIR TARGET AUDIENCE. SOME OF THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF COMMUNICATION INCLUDE;
ADVERTISING (EDITORIAL FASHION FOR MAGAZINES AND BILLBOARDS), WEBSITE (SALES AND COMMERCE),
SOCIAL MEDIA (BRAND PROFILE), EVENTS (RUNWAYS AND SAMPLE SALES), COLLECTIONS (LOOKBOOKS)
ADVERTISING & EDITORIAL FASHION COMMUNICATION
EDITORIAL FASHION IS A WAY OF CREATING A VISUAL STORY THAT CONVEYS A POWERFUL MESSAGE OR FEELING. IT ALLOWS THE PHOTOGRAPHER TO CONNECT WITH THE AUDIENCE.
WEBSITE & COMMERCIAL FASHION COMMUNICATION
COMMERCIAL FASHION COMMUNICATION IS USED TO SELL OR PROMOTE A PRODUCT AND IT INVOLVES CAPTURING THE PIECES IN A WAY THAT DISPLAYS THEIR UNIQUE DETAILS.
SOCIAL MEDIA & BRAND PROFILE COMMUNICATION
SOCIAL MEDIA IS USED TO COMMUNICATE A BRANDS IDENTITY AND CHARACTER.
EVENTS & RUNWAY FASHION COMMUNICATION
RUNWAY FASHION IS USED TO PUSH CREATIVE LIMITS AND TO TAKE TRENDS TO THE EXTREME, USING INGENIOUS ARTISTRY.
LOOKBOOK FASHION COMMUNICATION
A LOOKBOOK CONSISTS OF IMAGES THAT CONVEY THE ESSENCE OF THE BRAND THROUGH CREATIVE STORYTELLING.
SAINT LAURENT BRAND HISTORY
YVES SAINT LAURENT FOUNDED HIS COUTURE HOUSE IN 1962 WITH HIS PARTNER PIERRE BERGE, AFTER LEARNING UNDER CHRISTIAN DIOR. IT BEGAN DESIGNING TRADITIONAL BALLGOWNS, WIDE-LEGGED TROUSERS AND OTHER MORE ANDROGYNOUS STYLES THAT WERE GROWING IN POPULARITY. IN 1966, THE READY-TOWEAR LINE ‘SAINT LAURENT RIVE
GAUCHE’ BEGAN OFFERING WOMEN A FULL SPECTRUM WARDROBE, MAKING HIM THE FIRST DESIGNER TO SUCCESSFULLY CREATE A READY TO WEAR COLLECTION.
YVES SAINT LAURENT HAS MADE MANY CONTROVERSIAL MOVES OVER THE YEARS, AND IS WELL KNOWN FOR PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES. THIS CAN BE SEEN IN HIS ATTEMPTS TO MAKE POSITIVE CHANGES ON GENDER AND ETHNIC EQUALITY.
LE SMOKING
ONE OF YVES SAINT LAURENT’S MOST CONTROVERSIAL MOVES WAS CREATING ‘LE SMOKING’ WHICH WAS A TUXEDO FOR WOMEN. IT WAS CREATED IN 1966, PUSHING THE GENDER NORMS OF THE TIME, DUE TO IT BEING CONTROVERSIAL FOR WOMEN TO WEAR TROUSERS IN PUBLIC.
YVES SAINT LAURENT BELIEVED HE KNEW WOMEN WANTED FUNCTIONALITY, THEY WANTED TROUSERS, A BLAZER. HE ALSO BECAME ONE OF THE FIRST BRANDS TO PARTICIPATE IN THE ‘FREE THE NIPPLE’ MOVEMENT, INTRODUCING TRANSPARENT AND SHEER TOPS INTO HIS COLLECTIONS.
“I PREFER TO SHOCK RATHER THAN TO BORE
THROUGH REPETITION”YVES SAINT LAURENT
SAINT LAURENT BRAND IDENTITY
SAINT LAURENT IS A RENOWNED FASHION HOUSE THAT HAS HAD A HUGE IMACT ON THE FASHION INDUSTRY. THROUGH THE YEARS THE BRAND HAS PUSHED THE BOUNDARIES, AND HAS BECOME KNOWN FOR ITS INNOVATIVE DESIGNS AND ATTENTION TO DETAIL. THE BRANDS CREATIONS WERE OFTEN REFLECTIVE OF THE SOCIAL AND CULTURAL CHANGES HAPPENING AT THE TIME.
SAINT LAURENT’S DESIGNS ALL FOLLOW A TIMELESS STYLE THAT STANDS OUT, MAKING IT A SYMBOL OF SOPHISTICATION.
PHOTOGRAPHY
DAVID SIMS X SAINT LAURENT
PHOTOGRAPHY ANTHONY VACCARELLO
X
SAINT LAURENT
PHOTOGRAPHY HELMUT NEWTON
X SAINT LAURENT
VISION STATEMENT
FOLLOWING MY RESEARCH, I WILL BE CREATING A LOOKBOOK TO PRESENT MY FINAL IMAGES. I AIM TO STYLE THE JACKET TWO DIFFERENT WAYS, AS WELL AS GETTING PHOTOS IN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS. FITTING WITH THE BRAND SAINT LAURENT, I WILL BE STYLING THE MODEL USING A NEUTRAL COLOUR PALETTE. I WILL BE SHOOTING THESE LOOKS BOTH IN THE STUDIO TO GET A PLAIN BACKDROP, AS WELL AS ON THE BEACH IN THE SAND DUNES. THE NEUTRALS OF THE BEACH WILL COMPLIMENT THE JACKETS NEUTRAL TONES.
LOOKBOOK INSPIRATION
STYLING INSPIRATION
FOR MY FIRST LOOK, I AM GOING TO BE STYLING THE JACKET WITH NEUTRAL, TAPERED TROUSERS, A BLACK BRALETTE, BLACK POINTED-TOE KITTEN HEELS, OVERSIZED GOLD EARRINGS, AN OVERSIZED BLACK BELT, AND A BLACK AND BEIGE STRIPED CLUTCH BAG. THIS WILL BE SHOT IN THE STUDIO
FOR MY SECOND LOOK WHICH WILL BE SHOT IN THE SAND DUNES, I AM STYLING
THE JACKET WITH THE SAME BLACK BRALETTE, OVERSIZED GOLD EARRINGS AND BLACK POINTED-TOE KITTEN HEELS.
HOWEVER THIS TIME I WILL SWAP THE TROUSERS FOR A PAIR OF TAILORED BLACK SHORTS, AND I WILL PAIR THAT WITH AN OVERSIZED BROWN BELT WITH GOLD DETAILING.
LOCATION TEST SHOTS
https://issuu.com/indiaallenn/docs/lookbook_pdf
FINAL LOOKBOOK
EVALUATION
Throughout this module, I have had to develop a lot of different skills, including pattern cutting, adapting a pattern, sewing a tailored style jacket, sewing a collar and lapels. I have also used Issuu for the first time to format my lookbook. I feel like my manufacturing skills have improved massively throughout this process, as this has been a huge test for me. I’m not confident with this style of sewing or pattern cutting, so by trying so many different things for the first time I feel it has really challenged me and forced to step outside of my comfort zone. Although I’ve never taken much interest in formal and tailored fashion, I have liked the challenge, so I hope to be able to use these skills in future modules in order to develop them further.
Within this project, I have worked collaboratively with a masters photography student, however I feel this actually held me back towards the end of the project. While I am grateful for the opportunity, I will be cautious collaborating in the future, as my final outcome has been impacted hugely by this situation, having not received a large amount of the photos.
I found working with a brand in mind made it more challenging, as I had to think more critically than I usually would, and I had stricter guidelines to follow based on my the chosen brand.
Throughout this project, I faced a few difficulties. Initially I was falling behind due to not receiving my fabric, meaning once my fabric had arrived I had the task of catching up, to the stage others were at. I also faced a difficulty with the collaboration, meaning I have had to try my best to still end up with a good outcome despite the lack of photos.
I think my strongest area of this project is my construction skills. Although it was all completely new to me, I feel I did a good job of using my initiative in situations and maintaining a good quality of sewing. I also think despite my worries about the styling portion of this module, I managed to stay on brand and create looks that fit my concept as well as the brief too.
One of my weaker points in this project is my digital work, including the adobe workshops, as I found them incredibly confusing. In future I would like to work on these skills and make them more of a priority rather than avoiding them. I found that I managed to avoid that part of this project as I wasn’t creating video for my final outcome, however I will make more of an effort to try new digital techniques and practice with them if I don’t understand rather than giving up with it. I would also improve my time management skills, as I found I was getting behind slightly in this project, this was partly due to circumstances out of my control, but I should have been more prepared in case of things going wrong.
REFLECTIVE JOURNAL
Reflection No.1
18th March 2024
Week 1 initial reflection:
The aim of this module is to construct the jacket designed in the previous module. Then to style it and create a collection of images that align with the concept and brand chosen in the last module.
I hope to successfully meet this brief, and develop my styling skills as its not an area I’m confident in.
I’m also hoping I can use this module to work on my time management skills and pace myself better so that I have a sufficient amount of time to spend on each part of this module.
Actions:
I am going to complete my week by week action plan, in order to have a stricter time plan in place to avoid me falling behind.
Reflection No.2
25th March 2024
Week 2 reflection:
I have made a start on my research, looking at the different ways brands communicate.
I am still waiting on my fabric arriving, meaning I can’t get started on my jacket until it arrives. While I’m waiting for my pattern I’m making sure I have everything ready to start making as soon as it arrives. In order to do this, I’m making some changes to the pattern based on parts of my toile that I thought could have been done differently.
I have also made the pattern for the collar as I hadn’t done that on the toile.
Actions:
Begin making jacket as soon as fabric arrives and continue making progress on my process journal.
Reflection No.3
15th April 2024
Week 3 reflection:
I completed my final pattern, and have began cutting the pattern pieces out in the fabric.
I will be starting to sew the outer parts of the jacket this week.
I have started my research on the history of Saint Laurent and have also started looking at brand identity.
Actions:
I hope to be getting ready to do my lining next week, and also to be further along with my process journal.
Reflection No.4
22nd April 2024
Week 4 reflection:
I finished the outer part of my jacket, and have made a start on altering the pattern for my lining.
I am going to be finishing the pattern for my lining and facing, so that I can cut them out.
Actions:
I will have my lining and facing cut out by the end of the week, and I hope to have made a start on sewing them together.
Reflection No.5
29th April 2024
Week 5 reflection:
I have made a start on sewing my lining together, however I have found the hem very confusing, so in future I will aim to understand my pattern and the construction of the garment better so that its less confusing when putting it together.
I have also made the collar.
I have made a start on the styling portion of my process journal.
Actions:
I am going to finish my styling before the shoot next Thursday.
I am also going to aim to have sewn all of my lining and facing by the end of the week.
Reflection No.6
6th May 2024
Week 6 reflection:
I am finishing off the hem of the jacket, which I’m finding difficult due to having never created a tailored style jacket like this before.
Actions: Have everything prepared for the photoshoot on Thursday.
Reflection No.7
13th May 2024
Week 7 final reflection:
I did my photoshoot last Thursday, which went well and I’m hoping I managed to get the style of photos that I was after.
Following the photoshoot, I was led to believe the images would be sent over the following day, however I’m still waiting on my photos, meaning I’m unable to begin editing them for the moment. When I receive these images I will edit them as best as I can with the short amount of time I’ll have left before hand in.
I will also be completing my evaluation and any other missing parts of my process journal.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Bodies and clothing analysis.
Available at: https://www.reed.edu/anthro/adprojects/2011/ greaves_mercado/BodiesAndClothing%20Analysis.html
Haute History.
Available at: http://www.hautehistory.co.uk/yves-saint-laurent-timeline/ category/all
The art of luxury: Dissecting the Saint Laurent Brand Analysis
Available at: https://blog.osum.com/saint-laurent-brand-analysis/
Fashion show: Women’s Winter 24: Saint Laurent Fashion Show | Women’s Winter 24 | Saint Laurent | YSL.com.
Available at: https://www.ysl.com/en-gb/displayname-collectionswomen-winter24-fashion-show
The history of Yves Saint Laurent
Available at: https://www.williamgeorge.com/blog/the-history-of-yvessaint-laurent
