photo courtesy: LORENE HOLMES
Many days later, I arrive in the beautiful city of Leon with an aching back and decide I am still carrying too much. I tear out the pages of my guide book of the towns I have already passed; I throw away my small towel. I discard my compass and ask Jesus to guide me. The yellow flechas are replaced by shiny brass conchas, or shells, embedded in the city’s sidewalks that will guide me onward on the Camino. Most people here have smart phones. When you can find it, Internet is available mostly in bars or in alburges where you have paid to spend the night. The computer is down a dark hall, and the only light is sensor controlled. You type awhile, the light goes off; you wave your hand and the light returns. I am ecstatic. Today is my 80th birthday. My daughter, Barbara, has emailed everyone asking that birthday wishes be sent to me. There comes a flood of emails. I sit here crying and waving my hand for the light to come back on. A fellow peregrino has produced a chocolate cake. Life is good, and God is great! It is another tough day. It is bitter cold, with blowing rain. I lean over so much into the wind that I almost fall when the wind quits gusting. The countryside is covered with acres and acres of beautiful wild flowers. The locals report this as February weather. There are fences with miles of crosses made by peregrinos that are woven into the
fence and left in memory of someone or something. I need to find a refugio. I am so cold and tired. Thinking that the drizzling rain will stop, I keep my rain poncho inside my mochilla. Now I am soaked and my pants stick to me. No use to put on the Top: Cahors poncho now. The sign says there is a refugio in Rabe Valentre bridge de las Calzados, which is another two hours, at least. on the route to I trudge on and finally locate the refugio and it is Santiago. Above: FULL. I take off my hat, and with my grey hair all Alto de Perdon, over everywhere, I plop down in the nearest chair. A or Mountain fellow peregrino tells the proprietor he should find of Forgiveness. me a bed. He produces a cot and puts me in a room Opposite: A pause with four bunk beds. My cot is against a wall, and I >> for reflection. November-December 2013 95