Trader WEDDING
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
ISSUE 29 MAY/JUNE 22
Talents
PR SUPPOUDLY O BRITIRTING S BRID ALWH RETA EAR ILERS
MEET BRIDAL’S MOVERS AND SHAKERS
Bestsellers at LBFW THE NUMBERS RETAILERS LOVED
Randy Fenoli SAYING YES TO THE FUTURE OF BRIDAL
From the catwalks THIS SEASON’S SHOW REPORTS
ELYSEEBRIDAL.COM
Contents 11 News New collections, people and places
60 Demetrios Delivers The Dreams Five lush and lovely labels to discover
14 First Person Laura Daly looks back over 21 years
64 Pressing Matters In conversation with Tim Oliver of Propress
20 Best Sellers At London Bridal Fashion Week Top names on the gowns in demand
66 European Bridal Week They said they’d bring back the magic, and they did
34 Letter from America Peter Grimes on Busy shows and price 70 Barcelona Bridal Week hikes An astonishing few days, waving the flag for bridal 38 Second Opinion Sue Lovell on the world thus far in 2022 76 Social Media How to create your YouTube channel 40 The Importance Of That Trophy Guides for Brides looks at the value of 78 Peta Puts It Together different awards Separate numbers for that perfect pairing 46 Retailers’ Talk… So how was LBFW for you, we asked 84 Techno: Mapping Your Progress The business benefits of directions 52 The Man Who Knows apps Billy Fitzsimons on today’s market 86 Planning For A Better Future 54 Yes, Yes, Yes Eco-friendly and eco-conscious, It’s none other than Randy Fenoli the way to go 92 Going Legal Green claims and cybercrime
KATE FEARNLEY
TWIA
96 And Finally Where you can voice an opinion
ROMANTICA PURE
57 Meet The Designer Melanie Metcalfe, jewellery supremo, in love with bridal
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BRITISH BY DESIGN Introducing the stunning 2022 bridal collections from Romantica. Please visit our website at www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk to view the ranges and contact sales@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information about becoming a stockist.
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Reports from all the key shows have been coming in and, in the main, are glowing. It does feel like we’re all into a new chapter in bridal and hugely enthusiastic, but of course, treading carefully to ensure that every buying decision is the right one for each of our businesses. That caution will pay off, no question about that, and pave the way to a better business tomorrow. While there was, understandably, caution in the UK about buying from abroad, with import duties in place, and vastly increased transportation costs, there was so much at London Bridal Fashion Week to delight retailers. We asked a handful of exhibitors to fill us in on their best sellers at the show, and separately, a small group of retailers about what they enjoyed most at the Excel event. Being back, was the first comment from one and all. In this issue, in our legal section, starting on page 92, the experts look at green claims and just how green they actually are; consumers are wising up and want to know that the messages they are getting can be verified, so it is vital we understand what is, and more importantly what isn’t, allowable when it comes to making product and production claims. Get it wrong and it could be seriously damaging to your business reputation. There are many ideas from Helena Cotter, too, on WEDDING page 86, on what you and your team can do to help make this planet healthier. Enjoy this issue. It has been a pleasure putting it together, PR Talents SUPPOUDLY O based on your views MEET BRIDAL’S B RTING BRIDRITISH MOVERS AND A RETALWEAR SHAKERS ILERS and wishlists.
Trader WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND
ISSUE 29 MAY/JUNE 22
Bestsellers at LBFW Randy Fenoli
From the catwalks THIS SEASON’S SHOW REPORTS
Cover image: A real show stopper from Nicole Milano
Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding “From London to Essen to Barcelona, this seasons key shows are really delivering.” (p66) Martha Cooke Head of Ad sales “Randy Fenoli has such a huge following and getting his views on trends really shows the direction bridal is taking.” (p54)
susi@rogol-goodkind.com
Deputy Editor Jade Pepperell jade@meanttobemedia.com
Sales Manager Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com
Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com @WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader
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Trader WEDDING
THE NUMBERS RETAILERS LOVED
SAYING YES TO THE FUTURE OF BRIDAL
Andy Allen Art Director “Cybercrime is on the increase and challenging us all. I enjoyed knowing how to cope with it.” (p94)
Editor Susi Rogol
Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 18 Taylors Lane, London SE26 6QL. Tel: 0785 558 7219 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com
Wedding Trader magazine is an online magazine read by best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is the trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.
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To make an appointment to view the new collections, please contact: Michelle Blackburn: 07935 156275 | michelle@casablancabridal.eu
NOW AVAILABLE ON
TALKING POINT More news – and new products that make the wedding world so special GOING DUTCH Claes Iversen Bridal might be a new name to you, but it is one you need to know about. This Dutch designer has produced a semi-couture bridal collection of 50 tops, skirts, trousers and accessories that can mix and match to create something like 150 combinations. Iversen drew inspiration from his extensive design archives. For instance, a wide belt that is a nod to his 2018 collection, the gold details reminiscent of his 2019 collection, and the statement corset with ruching reinvented from his 2020 range. The Iversen signature is also visible in the use of fabrics – mikado paired with ̂crepe, tulle, and light silk georgette. www.claesiversen.com
BRIDAL’S KIND OF TOWN If you are planning to attend the big US show, the National Bridal Market, 28-30 August, at The Mart, Chicago, book ahead for the Chicago Bridal Ball on the opening night. Wear your finest and enjoy an evening of cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, music and dancing. For ticket information and to book, visit www.nationalbridalmarket.com/events/2022/8/29/ the-chicago-bridal-ball 10 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 2
PALOMA BLANCA’S TWIST ON THE TIMELESS Canadian house Paloma Blanca aims to redefine timeless romance with its new fall/winter 2022 collection. Traditional silhouettes are elevated with sheer lace and chic features, and sleeve designs are a highlight and include detachable drapes and grandiose puffs. Elegant off-theshoulder necklines have made a comeback in a big way throughout this collection, too. www.palomablanca.com
STATES-SIDE America’s top design names strutted their stuff in private show in New York. Ines di Santa showed a gloriously extravagant collection called Wonderland. “Join me as I look to my childhood in Buenos Aires, reflect on my time studying couture in Paris, and see how I discovered opulence in Dubai. This season’s collections are a glimpse into my fantasy world from my explorative years and discover how my travels led me to collect the skills I have spent my career trying to perfect.”
SHOE-BE-DO Rainbow Club has released a selection of new season styles that are guaranteed to elevate any bridal look. With a focus on intricate floral beading and vintage-inspired appliqué, these elegant profiles embody the glamour of the Hollywood era, while exuding contemporary sophistication. We love this style, Bridgitte, which retails at £149. Order them at www.rainbowclub.co,uk
Get The Beckham Look Anna Georgina has created three gowns –Kalley, Bellise and Karolina – with Nicola Beckham, nee Peltz, in mind. Each one has that special touch. www.annageorgina.co.za M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 11
First Dance Favourites Research by jewellerybox.co.uk has resulted in a list of the most popular first dance choice. Take note – it is worth having them as background music in your shop – could be a clever move. 1. Perfect, Ed Sheeran 2. Thinking Out Loud, Ed Sheeran 3. At Last, Etta James 4. All of Me, John Legend 5. Say You Won’t Let Go, James Arthur 6. You Are the Reason, Calum Scott 7. You Are The Best Thing, Ray LaMontagne 8. Can’t Help Falling in Love, Elvis Presley 9. Speechless, Dan + Shay 10. Can’t Help Falling in Love, Haley Reinhart
HEAD TURNERS Halo & Co had a big audience at White Gallery and no surprise – the collection was a dream. Pearls, pearls and more pearls, softly gleaming and framed in delicate silver metalwork. Large headbands and imposing tiaras were in demand, and there was plenty to choose from. Interestingly, Nicola and Stephanie found that an increasing number of retailers were ready to up their game and invest in top-of-the-market products. Visit www.haloandco.com to see the newest pieces. 12 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 2
Lihi Hod Spring/ Summer 2023 Collection The new collection by Lihi Hod, Mystic Flower, draws inspiration from the glamorous 20s and 30s – a period marked by this sense of optimism, love for luxurious fabrics, rich textures, and the beauty of the female form – and a collection of reinvented classics was born. Timeless silhouettes, depth of shades, transparencies, and rich layers of silks feature. Expect to see silk organza, mikado and crepe, adorned with hand-embroidery made especially for Lihi Hod. www.lilihod.com
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First Person
much more than a twinkle in its creators’ eyes. Websites were, to put it mildly, very basic, and Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, etc, were yet to be invented. Smart phones were not particularly smart, and you needed a camera if you wanted to take a photograph. “Customer experience”, “journey” and “expectation” were all buzz words waiting in the wings. We had to rely mainly on the Yellow Pages and bridal fairs to spread some dresses, re-invest in more the word, and most of the wedding dresses, and keep the profit – anyone dresses we saw at the twice-yearly could do it! Harrogate bridal exhibition, were All these years later, it transpires made in the UK, Europe, the US or that (with the notable exception of beyond, with only a smattering of the bit about making lots of money), Chinese imports thrown in for good it could indeed eventually be done. measure. That is to say, provided there’s Imported beaded gowns from a commitment to hard graft, no China were only just filtering their holidays for over a decade, neverway through into to the market, and ending expansions, a great deal of they very quickly took hold, owing help from ever-increasing numbers to the cheaper prices and excellent of staff, and enough fingernails to finish. Some of the original beaded bite during all the moments of worry gowns we stocked from Benjamin about the cash flow. Roberts in those very early days In 2001, social media was not were true works of art that, if made
Looking back over the past two decades, Laura Daly remembers the days before social media, and the dresses that had something special to say
T
he other day, while sorting out some clothes, I realised I have a coat that is actually older than some of our youngest staff members, and it dawned on me, not only that I am now officially old, but that Bellissima is nearly as old as Lily, Lizzie, and Nicola, too. So, yes, 21 years ago, it was all systems go in the Daly household. We were slap bang in the middle of setting up Bellissima Weddings and looking forward to making lots of money. After all, it seemed so simple; buy some dresses, sell
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2001 – 2022 Bellissima has come of age, and grown up so beautifully. Laura has overseen change after change not only in bridal fashion, but in the attitudes and wants of brides themselves
in the UK, would have cost a fortune. the strapless revolution. Long gone And there we were, able to offer this were the top hats and riding habits of almost couture finish on a gown that the late 80s, and even the large puff would retail at something like £500. sleeves and high necks, confectioned Chinese manufactured gowns in shiny silk and lace, were firmly on quickly became the saviour of so their way out by the time we saw our many brides-to-be over the following first customer. couple of decades offering, as they In my first year, I’d say that every did, great value other phone call for money, with ‘During her reign, the swag I took was from high fashion someone asking detail took on a million styling and lots whether or not we of beading. stocked Maggie guises. Left to right, right to Given that Sottero (we didn’t the alternative left, straight, at an angle, at the time). The was to have a dress they were front only, all the way dressmaker hoping to find was try to recreate around… you name it, the the one that started the look, which this revolution. It swag did it!’ nearly always was the new kid ended in on the block and disaster, or to buy a plainer dress at came with a matching handbag. a significantly higher price from a UK I had to move quickly and find an or European label, you can see how alternative. quickly the bling took hold! Mori Lee came up trumps with the 5507, and I taught myself how to Arriving at the scene make a matching handbag! A-line, It so happened that Bellissima strapless with a swag or, if you opened her doors just at the start of prefer, drape across the middle, she
was perfect, and my little bags were hitting the spot. Then Ellis Bridals made a taffeta version, and in a marketing masterstroke, photographed it as if in a fairytale – and the ‘Princess and the Frog’ dress was born. My phone rang off the hook! The swag bag During her reign, the swag detail took on a million guises. Left to right, right to left, straight, at an angle, front only, all the way around... you name it, the swag did it! And, when craftily teamed with a corset back and either a straight or sweetheart neckline, the swag could make every bride’s dreams come true with relative ease. Nipped-in waists were achieved in seconds; tummies camouflaged, muffin tops were things of the past, and busts were minimised or maximised as required with the pull of a corset and the correct neckline. Whether it was satin, silk, taffeta, organza, chiffon or even lace, there really was a swag for everyone.
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Mak i n g a di fference Above, left to right: Bejamin Roberts 930; Hollywood Dreams; Ellis Bridals, the Princess and the Frog; Laura, with one of the many trophies she has been awarded over the years
Thanks to the fact that social media was still not a big thing, brides couldn’t measure quite how popular this style actually was, and we heard: “Oh my god, I love it – it’s so different” time and time again for several years! Although there were always fitted styles being sold or sought, the trend was definitely leaning towards larger and larger skirts. And, when the swag did eventually die away (may it rest in peace), the strapless bodice was still a firm favourite and could be teamed with a jacket if arms were an issue! Think big Alongside the very popular polyester satins and tulle, silk came at a price that meant it was still a viable option, so we saw amazing full-skirted silk gowns
appear, with Hollywood Dreams, Ian size of them, and the space needed Stuart, and Dizzie Lizzie just some to take up even a hem! Sadly, the of the designers who made these era of the over-the-top ballgown styles their own. Coloured silk and came to a dead halt the day the first satin were the Big Fat Gypsy norm for their Wedding was ‘Some of the original creations, in aired. Literally. beaded gowns we stocked To the point glorious pinks, lilacs, blues, from Benjamin Roberts in that we had golds, and of brides who had those very early days were already ordered course, the Hollywood their gowns true works of art that, if Dreams signature calling in tears scarlet red – pleading with us made in the UK, would teamed with long to change their have cost a fortune’ red gloves for dress as they that extra touch didn’t want to of drama. look like those girls on the telly. Our storeroom and shop rails Actually, this was probably the groaned at the weight of them all, first time that our brides had been and our seamstresses groaned at the so influenced by images that they’d
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seen outside of wedding magazine adverts, and it opened the floodgates that have not closed since. During the swagathon years, we had sold a slim-fit silk gown (Benjamin Roberts 930) with more of a ruche than a swag over the tummy and bust area as an alternative, and it had done very well, But now we had a problem. Silk and taffeta were not only becoming more expensive, but they were also becoming a bit boring to a generation of brides who had seen their peers in nothing else. Cue the arrival of lace… Social media was now coming into its own and, the minute that models, actresses and these new beings, ‘influencers,’ were photographed in slimmer-fitting red-carpet-worthy lace gowns (filtered to within the proverbial inch, of course) that’s what suddenly became the ‘look’.
And how we embraced it! Slim lace gowns that took up so little space, didn’t show the wrinkles, and were so forgiving. Then they started growing. Lace on lace, with lace trims and lace hems. They got bigger, then they got shorter. They got blinged up, they got lined with colour, lined with sparkle, or left entirely unlined. You name it. They got so technical in their construction that it could take days just to unpick a hem. Trains have got longer and longer while backs got lower and lower or disappeared altogether. Lace has even merged into boho, and into Cottage Core… Whatever label you wish to put on it, there’ll be a lace dress somewhere with its hand up saying “pick meeee!” Looking back at these and the other changes in bridal fashion over
the years that we’ve been trading, one thing is apparent: the styles of the early days made the Mum happy and the bride feel like her shape had been enhanced, with the ‘good bits’ on show and the ‘bad bits’ hidden. Nowadays, for the most part, gone are the hang-ups about body image. We no longer say “it’s so flattering” or “look at your tiny waist in that”. Our customer is more focused on how she feels and the image she has in her head rather than whether or not her bum looks big in this or that. In truth, the correct answer to that particular question nowadays is most probably yes – and, if not, then don’t worry, we can sew some pads in it! Given that the normal rule of fashion is to repeat key looks on a loop with some minor adjustments, I’m off to source some riding hats now before the rush starts. Tally-ho!
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Modern, glamorous and unforgettable... Let us introduce you to the AW 22 collection from Pure Bridal, where all gowns retail below £999. Please contact kerry@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information on becoming a stockist.
www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk
LONDO N BRI DA L FASHION WEEK
The Best Sellers The capital’s first big bridal buying event since the pandemic changed all plans, turned out to be a bonanza, delivering great names, new trends, and real choice. We asked some of the top exhibitors which of their gowns performed exceptionally well
MORILEE Style: Feliciana (Style 5988) Fabric: Sparkle net Best selling colour: Ivory/ almond/honey In demand size: UK12 RRP: £1,300 Minimum order: Discussed with stockists Shipping: 12-weeks lead time Contact: T: +44 (0)1636 700889 E: ukmarketing@morilee.com www.uk.morilee.com
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VICTORIA JANE Style: 18669 Fabric: Crepe, lace and beaded lace Best selling colour: Ivory/ivory In demand size: UK14 RRP: £1,000 Minimum order: Discussed with stockists Shipping: 12-weeks lead time Contact: T: +44 (0)1636 593482 E: enquiries@ronaldjoyce.com www.ronaldjoyce.com
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DANDO LONDON Style: Suzi Quatro Fabric: Heavy crepe Best selling colour: Ivory In demand size: US14 RRP: £1,995 Minimum order: Eight styles Shipping: Late August Contact: T: +44 (0)1420 23490 E: sales@dandolondon.com www.dandolondon.com
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KATE FEARNLEY Style: Ivy Fabric: stretch crepe satin, stretch lace, 3D flower embroidery Best selling colour: Ivory In demand size: UK12 RRP: £1,575 Minimum order: Four pieces Shipping: June/July Contact: T: +44 (0)1642 63847 E: sales@katefearnley.com www.katefearnley.com
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Style: Chloe top and Scarlet
DANIELA DI MARINO Style: 6378 Fabric: Soft tulle and lace Best selling colour: Nude/ivory In demand size: UK14 RRP: £999 Minimum order: No minimums Shipping: Before end July Contact: Rob Bevington Agencies T: +44 (0)7852 999079 E: monicaloretti@outlook.com www.monicaloretti.com
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ROMANTICA Style: Jayla Fabric: Zibeline Best selling colour: Ivory/light rum pink In demand size: UK14 RRP: £1,275 Minimum order: Suggested: six pieces Shipping: Before end July Contact: T: +44 (0)1823 674 412 E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk
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Style: Chloe top and Scarlet
IVORY & CO Style: Wonderland Fabric: Mikado, with hand stiched Italian lace appliqués with illusion beading Best selling colour: Porcelain In demand size: UK12 RRP: £1,895 Minimum order: No Minimums Shipping: May-June Contact: T: +44(0)1684 592030 E: info@ivoryandcobridal.co.uk www.ivoryandcobridal.co.uk
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ROLLING IN ROSES Style: The Obsession Dress Fabric: Satin and crepe Best selling colour: Ivory In demand size: UK12 RRP: £2,020 Minimum order: Six pieces Shipping: Lead time 16 weeks Contact: T: +44 (0)1904 652892 E: hello@rollinginroses.co.uk www.rollinginroses.co.uk
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Style: Chloe top and Scarlet
MONICA LOTETTI Style: 8245 Fabric: Silky chiffon Best selling colour: Ivory In demand size: UK14 RRP: £999 Minimum order: No minimums Shipping: Before end July Contact: Rob Bevington Agencies T: +44 (0)7852 999079 E: monicaloretti@outlook.com www.monicaloretti.comms
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SOPHIA TOLLI Style: Y22267 Darcy Fabric: Sequined Schiffli lace, misty tulle, glitter mesh Best selling colour: Ivory/Champagne In demand size: UK14 RRP: £1,450 Minimum order: Suggested: six pieces Shipping: Before end July Contact: T: +44 (0)1823 674905 E: enquiries@moncheribridals.co.uk www.sophiatolli.com
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ANGELA BIANCA Style: 1061 Fabric: Chiffon and illusion lace Best selling colour: Ivory In demand size: UK12 RRP: £900 Minimum order: No minimums required Shipping: Before end July Contact: Rob Bevington Agencies T: +44 (0)7852 999079 E: monicaloretti@outlook.com www.monicaloretti.com
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Introducing the stunning Martin Thornburg collection from the Mon Cheri Bridals group. For more information on any of the collections and to enquire about becoming a stockist, please email enquiries@moncheribridals.com or ring 01823 674 905.
www.martinthornburg.com
Letter from America Peter Grimes of VOWS magazine, the leading trade title across the pond, looks at busy markets...and those inevitable price increases
T
he Fall 2022 bridal market season in the US was very active, with boutiques buying deeply and enthusiastically… though they looked warily beyond the current volatility in costs and availability of goods, and the continuing issues of understaffing and over burdened stylists. All venues, including the round of pop up markets taking place in five US cities during March and April, showed a surprising and welcome buying intensity that was not limited to bridal apparel. Accessories, and prom, bridesmaids and mothers of the wedding apparel categories were also well shopped and pursued. Exhibitors and venues also reported a surge in attendance and
excitement by boutique owners preparing to open new businesses, and/or existing boutiques expanding their merchandising into bridal and accessory categories. Regardless of the category, design was front and centre, whether from an established brand or witnessed in new ‘private label’ bridal collections introduced by prom and special occasion houses. The trends For bridal, it was all about lots of lace and sparkle and exaggerated details; clean, modern styles; dramatic and eye-catching necklines; lots of slits (some not so subtle); a variety of hem lengths; stylish suits and jumpsuits; bigger, bolder sleeves,
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and finely detailed and embellished accessories. For prom, short dresses with open backs featuring lots of glitz and sparkle, many in iridescent colors, were one very visible trend. In general, the market venues and exhibitors worked diligently to create an exceptional experience for buyers, providing perks such as Instagram-worthy photo booths, some with props or 3D capabilities; informative educational seminars on topics ranging from digital marketing to boutique branding; mini cafes filled with sweet treats and custom cocktails, and knowledgeable reps showcasing gowns and accessories. In addition to the up-beat enthusiasm of boutique buyers and owners, often expressed as “the joy of being back and conducting business,” there was an undercurrent of exhaustion and concerns of maintaining a high level of boutique brand experience amid the crush of appointments with limited staff.
Selling success Many reported brisk selling activity and (for many) “record sales” to start the season and preceding market. These reviews were echoed by apparel and accessory exhibitors as they confirmed their own brisk sales while lamenting the added pressures of increasing product and transportation costs, delivery extensions, and the struggle to pass along some of those costs to the boutiques and eventually to the bride. One intriguing market discussion… rising interest rates, increasing inflation, product cost increases, delivery snafus and worldwide turmoil do not appear to be negatively affecting the bride, her purchasing power, nor her desire for the experience she has been anticipating but unable to attain during the COVID years. Though product costs were definitely part of lively discussions, they were secondary to questions
about deliveries and specific product availability. Buyers appeared to be buying deep in anticipation of hopefully short-term supply chain issues. And judging from conversations with exhibitors, the price volatility we’ve seen this past six months will continue at least for the remainder of the year as manufacturers will be periodically and continually passing through price increases and transportation surcharges. Based on market discussions, continued volatility for US based boutiques (and those UK boutiques working with US vendors) appears inevitable and will be upon us sooner than later. A suggestion increase your prices now in anticipation of what’s to come. To be clear, I am not advocating major price increases that take advantage of the circumstances, nor those that appear to gouge brides.
It is, however, prudent to reflect on the cost and transportation increases you have already received from your designers/brands, to anticipate additional increases of about the same in the coming months, and to take those steps necessary to avoid the administration headaches that unexpected or unplanned cost increases can create. In addition to staying ahead of those costs, this is a rare moment in our industry’s history in which there is little-to-no pushback from brides against the cost of their gowns and accessories. They are very well aware of increasing costs of everything they purchase, yet for bridal continue to equate the cost of their gowns with the value of the experience they have in your boutique... regardless if you’re based in the US or UK. Don’t be hesitant; be proactive. Acting now will help alleviate some of the additional stresses you’re bound to face soon.
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To make an appointment to view the new collections, please contact: Michelle Blackburn: 07935 156275 | michelle@casablancabridal.eu
Second Opinion Who would ever have thought that world events, political sanctions, the war crimes of a madman, would ever affect the day to day running of a Bridal Shop? But here we are. Sue Lovell voices her thoughts
that we would have to get used to the word ‘no’. To not see that as a negative, but as a positive. With the anticipated supply chain issues, I needed to prepare my brides that sometimes it is better to give an honest ‘no’ rather than a hopeful ‘yes’, if it means that alternatives can be found, or contingency plans put in place. Wedding planning, I predicted at the tail end of 2021, may not yet be plain sailing, and preparation, ell, 2022 is turning out planning and a willingness to to be a corker of a compromise may be key to stress-free year. Globally, it’s the nuptials. Obviously, in those heady equivalent of being days of coronavirus, I was still thinking punched in the gut, whilst suffering horrific food poisoning, from a bacteria of the knock-on effects Covid would have on us all, but I did not foresee contracted whilst enjoying the first genocide, and the threat of nuclear proper meal eaten since you found annihilation, and the resulting effect on out you had an aggressive intestinal the world in general. But here we are. parasite. I have talked to suppliers and shops And while it may be seen as a alike since the London show, and there stretch to how our bridal business is is no doubt, that whilst we are trying to linked to world politics, if we want be optimistic, we are also cautious and to run ethical businesses, if we want careful with our buying. Our hearts are to do the right thing, whilst still preparing for big weddings, and big supporting our customers and our industry, then we need to put plans in spending brides, but our heads are still focused on supply chains, petrol place. Back in December, I told my brides prices, inflation – the same issues our
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brides are thinking of when budgeting for and planning their day. We are all independent, but we are all linked, and we are part of a worldwide chain of events, whether we want to admit that or not. Think about this… I was reading the “about us’ page of a particularly beautiful bridal shop, stocking so many prestigious and well-known designers, and accompanied by photographs of the beautiful staff, fabulous premises, and the most spectacular shop window. It said: “The salon team will be happy to help make the most cherished dream of every bride come true and make your wedding day truly fabulous and unforgettable. In the variety of world brands presented in the salon, you are sure to find your perfect dress. On the appointed day and hour, a personal consultant and fitter awaits you. They will do everything to make the dress fit perfectly on the figure. It’s nice to know that a whole team of professionals carefully and painstakingly works to create your unforgettable image.”
to purchase, but if thousands of hard to make dreams happen, I think about this shop every Claires and Karas make an informed day. Situated in the heart of Kyiv, and choice - then that affects the brands marked as ‘Temporarily Closed’ I can’t So, can we make a difference? Well, the first thing is to make sure that we stock and sell. That affects the help but wonder how the brutality of manufacturers we buy from. when this horror is over, we support the Russian invasion has affected the The power of the people is not Ukrainian designers, in whatever lives of these beautiful women. At way we can. Ukrainian brands should just a cliché, it is a fact. We can Christmas, they would have had overlook the provenance of many be promoted, shouted about, and the same staff parties, family get things, to make a profit, but can we displayed, brides will want to buy togethers that we had. At New Year these labels, brides will want to show really overlook genocide, can we they would have made the same really support designers who buy their support. One day ‘Made in Resolutions that we had, knowing from factories, who support Russia? I Ukraine’ will be the must-have label. they would probably be broken know I can’t. I know many brides who The second thing is that we make by 14th January, but made with won’t. So, we need to find suppliers, a conscious decision not to support determination all the same. A glass designers, who support Russia. China factories that are on the right side of of bubbly, a new year’s kiss, or in humanity. bed with a good book or a loved So we choose. We choose one, or a random one, would We are part of a worldwide chain where we buy from, and who we have seen In 2022 welcomed in support. We choose not to be with hope, just like we did. And of events, whether we indifferent. they hoped that Covid would want to admit that or not. For me, it is an easy choice, the abate, and life would get back to beautiful faces of three bridal normal. Just like we did. shop consultants, colleagues of us If you pop on over to the website of has not come out against Russia as all, who up until late February made I write this, but as an industry we Ukrainian designer Eva Lendel, there dreams happen for brides and who is a heartfelt message letting us know need to be in a position to support faced all the shop joys and struggles the manufacturers who do support of how their lives have changed. that we all do. I know that I may never our freedoms, who do not support Making items for the military as well know where they are today, I may as bridal gowns. So full of hope, pride, Russia. Sanctions are made by and a fearless resilience, asking us for Governments, but whether you are an not be able to offer them a place of support and prayers. Asking us not to industry leader or a small independent sanctuary, and I may never know if they are refugees, are safe, or even shop, we can all make decisions on look away and be indifferent to what if they are still alive, but I know that who we buy from. our Ukrainian colleagues are facing. I will not support any designer who I had a few ladies in my shop Showing us how we can help. supports the Russian government, recently who made it very clear that Making sense of the madness is they will not be purchasing any items that has deliberately put these futile, there is no sense to be made women, their friends and families and that come from China if the Chinese of genocide, nor can we process their country in the cross hairs of war. Government does not come out to the brutal images coming out of Google those beautiful shops in Ukraine. But what we can do, what we denounce Russia. Now I know that Ukraine, see who they stocked – who Putin will not be shaking with fear must do, is look to see how we can they supported. Let us hope that these support our Ukrainian colleagues. The hearing that Claire from Cambridge, big, beautiful brands support them and Kara from Kettering will actively bridal consultant, the bridal owner, now. Let the big brands show too, that look into where their wedding dress the seamstress, the Saturday girl, the they are not indifferent.. WT is made, before making the decision people who just like us, who worked
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THE IMPORTANCE OF THAT TROPHY H advertisers on Guides for Brides with no entry fee. Director Alison Hargreaves explains: “As weddings become increasingly experiential, venues and suppliers do so much more than simply provide a product or service. Couples want to choose businesses that have been recognised for both the quality of their work and their customer care. They Which of the programmes should want to be guaranteed a stress-free, you enter? special experience and therefore There are various industry awards; look scrupulously at reviews and some are specific to a sector such as recognitions. bridalwear, or to a particular region, “The awards process has a double while others are national. impact, especially for those too modest Aim high but be realistic. Most to ask for praise. It gives companies awards programmes have a nominal a great reason to ask couples to cost either to enter, or to attend the awards ceremony, or to cover the cost leave a review, and the more reviews of the award or certificate. It’s important a business has, the more enquiries to weigh up the cost versus benefit for they tend to get. Even if the business only makes the shortlist for an award, your business. it shows industry recognition, and Guides For Brides, for example, provides good reason to post about use their awards scheme specifically their achievements online. For winners, to elevate the most proactive and there is considerable free publicity and customer-focused businesses listed a trophy to display in their business on their website with their annual premises (or at fairs and shows they Customer Service Awards. attend) to remind themselves and their Based on reviews left on business clients of their standing in the industry.” listings on guidesforbrides.co.uk throughout the year, each review How much does it cost? acts as a nomination for the awards Industry awards tend to fall into three so the business doesn’t have to put categories. themselves forward. Those with the highest number of 5-star reviews, 1. Commercial awards These are run relative to business size, are put primarily for the organiser’s financial forward to a panel of independent gain. They tend to have high charges judges. The awards are open to all olding an Award winner title can be a good indicator that a business has been trading within the wedding sector for a reasonable amount of time as most awards initiatives have lengthy nomination, assessment, and judging processes.
Choosing a venue and suppliers they can trust to look after them has never been more important for couples planning their wedding. Industry specific awards can demonstrate that a business stands out above its competitors. Guides For Brides advises…
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they represent, so have removed any barriers to entry. Most of the finalists attend the black-tie awards night which covers the costs of the awards, but it’s entirely optional. Alison adds: “To charge a fee to enter 2. Sponsored awards These have It’s worth understanding the motivation or make it a prerequisite to buy tickets a headline sponsor, for example for the awards night would seem behind the awards before deciding a business bank, covering the which ones are right for your business. inauthentic. Our winners are chosen costs of the awards in return for Most wedding industry awards fall into based on their achievements, not the an opportunity to promote their the third category, and these are seen amount they can pay. I’m not saying business to those involved in the that others shouldn’t charge a fee, it’s as the most credible type of award as process. For sponsors, it is a good just not a route we have taken.” way for them to reach a very relevant there isn’t a commercial bias. Guides for Brides, for example, don’t audience. Credible judges charge an entry fee as they want to The credibility of an award isn’t just highlight the best of the businesses 3. Client awards The costs of these to enter, a compulsory awards ceremony and a cost for winners to display the awards logo or receive the award.
types of awards are covered by a secondary benefit, perhaps client loyalty, increased publicity, social media coverage, or in added benefits to the client.
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dependent on how many other businesses you are up against, but also relies on having totally unbiased judges with relevant experience. This can be a challenge in a relatively small industry where a business’s good reputation stands before it. Most awards use industry experts (for example, Wedding Trader’s Susi Rogol is a frequent and well respected judge) but often from different sectors from within the industry, so that they know what will be relevant judging criteria, without necessarily knowing the finalists. It’s common to use a panel of judges and take an average score across the judges in order to remove any possible risk of bias. However, adjudicators would agree that there tends to be a clear consensus of opinion.
Repeat Awards Any business already achieving success tends to build on that success by continuing to do the same as they have in the past, but better – it’s the primary reason that businesses often hold the same award year after year. But although this helps demonstrate consistency, it can also add unnecessary pressure in ensuring no one overtakes you! Professional wedding photographers, Sam and Steve Vaughan, recognise the benefit of repeat awards: “We have been honoured to be awarded two Customer Service Awards for Photography and one Highly Commended over the last three years” say Sam and Steve. “Our status as award winners give prospective
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customers the confidence that they are booking experienced, professional wedding photographers with lots of satisfied customers over the last three years, and that has definitely helped us book more weddings!” Making the most of the opportunities For awards where there are several stages. For example, regional rounds before the national finals or a short list being published prior to winners being announced, make the most of the opportunity to shout about it at every stage. That way, if you don’t go beyond that stage, your business has already had positive publicity. If you do go further, you’ll find your supporters are even more invested if you win, as they have felt they were with you throughout the
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whole process, from start to finish. Most awards organisers will supply a badge for you to display on your website, your social media platforms, and in your email footer. Some will also help you write a press release for your local paper. You know the tone of your local paper and what’s important locally, so adjust any press release to fit that and always include a photograph of you or your team either showcasing the service you offer or with the award itself. You may feel camera-shy, but awards are all about the people behind them, so it’s your time to shine! Charitable Aims The publicity around awards can be the perfect springboard to raise funds, and raise the profile of a charitable
cause. The 2022 Guides for Brides event resulted in funds for their charity partner, VOW for Girls, who are working to end the global child marriage crisis. Thanks to the generosity of the finalists in attendance, and those who donated raffle prizes, Guides for Brides raised over £1,400 at this event. When asked about the charitable aspect of the event, Clay Dunn, CEO of VOW for Girls said: “The wedding industry at its heart, celebrates couples’ choosing each other, making it such a natural alignment with VOW for Girls and our work to help girls choose love on their own terms. We’re thrilled that Guides for Brides chose VOW for Girls as their charity of choice for their 2022 Awards Ceremony. “The amount raised is enough to cover all of the costs for ten girls to
attend school for a year – from school fees to supplies and transportation. “The longer a girl stays in school, the less likely she is to become a bride. She meets friends and mentors who encourage her to dream big. She gains self-confidence and learns that her voice matters. School also gives her more economic opportunities, which lets her own her future.” Think industry awards may be for you? Your next steps will be to start researching the best awards for you and how to enter them. It’s important to assess the costs against the benefits, but if the award is relevant to your business and is from a credible and respected company, they can be worth their weight in gold! WT
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Contemporary, Opulent and breathtaking - The new AW 22 collection from Jennifer Wren Bridal offers your brides unique glamour on their big day. Please contact kerry@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information on becoming a stockist.
www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk
RETAILERS’ TALK… ON LBFW Were suppliers on a high? What did you think of the newest trends? Did you buy more/less than you’d planned? Did you discover new names? Did you come away with a new sense of positivity? These were the questions we asked retailers after the Excel show TDR Birmingham Rebecca: “London Bridal Week was the first show we have looked forward to since the start of the pandemic and it didn’t disappoint. It was lovely to see so many familiar faces and catch up with friends. There was a calm, relaxed vibe, which enabled us to focus on buying. “We are experiencing our best year yet at TDR Bridal Birmingham and we are extremely positive for a successful 2022.”
Collections carried Badgley Mischka Elysee Enzoani Blue Etoile Justin Alexander Lillian West Love Madison James Morilee Rebecca Ingram Ronald Joyce Signature Sottero and Midgley Wilderly New arrivals Casablanca Ellis Sassi Holford 46 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 2
C R E AT I Q U E S BRIDAL BOUTIQUE Southsea Andrew and Rob: “Firstly, it was great to be back in London seeing everyone. Planning was the main focus of this show for us; having had two seasons of disruption, we felt like a new business attending the hall, but with the power of our knowledge knowing exactly what we needed, we were not going to be persuaded any other way. We had already discussed the plan moving forward with designers, and none failed to deliver on that count. What was a forefront runner was the new trend for the ‘lingerie look’ in bridal with boned exposed corsets, nude panelling with beaded boned sections, the walking split, and new satin fabrics, with ruched detailing bringing back the 80s and 90s vibe. “Mark Lesley’s new beaded bodice covered in pearls, style 7595, was a favourite from the show alongside Scarlet in red from Maggie Sottero, and jumpsuit style 11225 from Adore by Justin Alexander. “It was lovely to finally meet up with friends again, not only to have a good old catch up about business but to take time out and see a West End show . Collections carried Adore by Justin Alexander Justin Alexander Lillian West Maggie Sottero Mark Lesley Sincerity Bridal Sottero and Midgley Sincerity Bridal, New arrivals: Donna Salado, Rebecca Ingram Occasionwear: Ella Boo, Labella, Lizabella
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PURE BRIDES Norwich Anna: “It was great to be back and it felt like I’d never been away as soon as I walked into the hall. It was just lovely to catch up with so many industry friends and suppliers. It was also brilliant to be back in amongst the dresses again, as virtual buying can be so hit and miss, and there is absolutely no substitute for seeing a style in the flesh to give you more confidence in your buying decisions. “It was disappointing that some of the bigger designers had chosen not to exhibit, and having been away for so long I felt that they were letting their stockists down by not committing to a trade show in the UK. “In general, I felt the show seemed quiet and although
most of the big bridal names were there, and apparently busy on their stands, there were less of the smaller labels exhibiting; White Gallery in particular felt more subdued than it has in the past. “I went with the intention of seeking out a new label to give us something a little different, but didn’t find a designer that really excited me, so I spent less than I would have been happy to. However, overall I did enjoy the show, and was really happy with the gowns I ordered from my existing suppliers – I felt the new Evie Young and Etoile collections were particularly strong. “I’m very positive about the future in general but would have loved to have seen more effort on the part of our designers to demonstrate their efforts to support more sustainable production. This will certainly be issue for retailers in the next few years as Gen Z brides become more aware of the impact that their gown has on the environment.”
Collections carried Ellis Bridals Essense of Australia Etoile Evie Young Maggie Sottero Rebecca Ingram
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WEDDING BELLES OF FOUR OAKS Sutton Coldfield Mel: “We took all of our team to the London Bridal Show, so it was a non-stop whirlwind for 24/48 hours! We didn’t look at any new designers but instead we spent time with our existing and much loved labels. Maggie Sottero had a beautiful stand; it was evident that Jenny and her fabulous team worked hard to put it together. They were constantly busy, which created a great buzz, and their fabulous catwalk show was on the main stage this year. “We loved that they embraced women of all shapes, sizes and ethnicity with their models, their collection offers such a wide range of styles that it’s easy to pick dresses that you know will sell well and our brides will love. “Allure Bridals/Abella had a fabulous stand with their own catwalk show; Tim and his wonderful team always ensure a great welcome as well as refreshments, and fabulous Allure merchandise to take home! We were really impressed with the Abella collection offering the modern bride a couture European look which is so on trend right now. “We were blown away by Savin’s latest collection. We were just sad we missed their catwalk show on Sunday as we did not arrive until Monday afternoon. Their fabrics and their unique styles were breathtaking, we are very excited to have these new arrivals in the boutique very soon. “We didn’t have time to attend any of the seminars, but we did find time for a one to one session with Wendy from Do you Speak Bride. We have been part of Wendy’s training programme for nearly five years now, and we would recommend any bridal boutique to take a look and embrace Bride Country. “Overall we enjoyed our time together as a team and left feeling very excited and positive about our new dress arrivals and beautiful new accessories. “We felt the show was quiet and lacked a bit of a buzz, not sure London will ever have the same feeling as Harrogate! “
Collections carried Abella Allure Bridals Essense of Australia Evie Young Maggie Sottero (all labels) Martina Liana Savin London
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YA P Newcastle-upon-Tyne Danni: “The return of LBFW and White Gallery has been the highlight of our trading year so far. Being able to connect with our industry face to face and see the new season collections in person once again has been such a positive step. Watching the bridal catwalks and seeing our designers creations flourish, really brings such a sense of pride, and the atmosphere at the shows was certainly filled with that bridal buzz. “This season we have been really focused – we’ve ensured that we have covered all bases when buying our latest edits and really chosen the stronger styles that each of our designers is renowned for. Detachable accessories such as bold puff sleeves and pure smooth statement-making fabrics in fuller silhouettes have really come through from every label along with the contrast of head to toe glitter creating shimmering gowns. It’s been inspirational to also visit a few new labels showing at LBFW and see new talent emerging in the capital.”
Collections carried Aire Barcelona Madi Lane Bridal Maggie Sottero Rebecca Ingram Savin London
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EMMA HARTLEY B R I D A LW E A R Colne Emma: “We were buzzing on the way to the show. There was a party atmosphere as soon as we got on the train and met some lovely people also going to Excel for a trade fair. I think everyone was excited to be back out in civilisation and looking forward to a change of scene. “It was highlights all the way for us. We hit the ground running with the Wendy Riviera Do You Speak Bride seminar, followed by refreshments in the Platinum Lounge. Then off to meet our suppliers. We saw some amazing new collections by Randy Fenoli , Allure Bridals, Casablanca bridals and Elysee Etoile, but I felt the mood was slightly less buoyant than September Harrogate when I think we had all assumed 2022 was going to go crazy with new brides. “Chatting to our suppliers, it seems we are all still trading through difficult times dealing with the backlog of two years’ worth of cancelled weddings, and the shortage of wedding venues and dates this has caused. But most of us who have been in the industry a while have seen hard times before and feel confident the glory days will be back, although it might just take a little longer than anticipated. “On Day 2 we got totally carried away on the Poirier stand, ordering the most amazing hair accessories. I think we were craving a bit of sparkle in our lives and they certainly delivered, We saw a lot of dresses with sleeves so its looking like sleeves are back in a big way. There was an abundance of dresses with very sparkly glitter fabrics contrasted by a wide range of simple styles without any beading or lace, so plenty of options to choose from. And we attended Megan Garner’s masterclass and have finally found our Tik Tok feet. “I took my boutique manager Rachel with me on this trip as she has been my rock during the past two years, and I wanted to be able to spend some quality time with her and give her the appreciation (and cocktails) she deserves. All in all it was a fantastic event and we came back feeling very positive and ready for whatever the rest of 2022 may bring.” Collections carried Allure bridals Casablanca Bridal Etoile by Elysee Nicola Anne bridal Randy Fenoli New arrivals: Poirier accessories
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The man who knows “Never open a bridal shop without consulting an expert!” That’s the top tip from Dubliner Billy Fitzsimons - and after more than 40 years in the trade, he should know! Jill Eckersley went to meet the man President, David Lesser. A man of imports from the Far East which were great foresight, his USP was to create selling at much lower prices than a system where his retailers could the Irish versions. The Germans and buy dresses, and if they didn’t sell, Scandinavians were leading us in they could return then – in re-saleable rainwear too, so I felt it was time to condition, of course – for a full refund. move on. I had youth on my side and I “David Lesser’s company was the spotted a niche in bridal. best manufacturer at the time, and “At the time there were only two I believe more manufacturers of wedding Bridal may look glamorous companies should apply the same gowns in Ireland, and sometimes it is, but it principles. He and very few shook up the bridal shops. I is a business, too. It’s not a business and left met someone working in hobby, and there are many his customers knowing that if a childrenswear factors to consider dress they bought who specialised turned out to be a in bridesmaids mistake, they wouldn’t have to live with and flower-girls’ dresses. “That illy Fitzsimons, he of the it forever! David was a major influence company, Special Day, today supplies wild ties and constant on the bridal trade worldwide.” laughter, has been an agent both Irish and international markets with bridal and bridesmaids’ gowns, and representative for countless brands, from the US-based and First Communion dresses. People The times they are changing Naturally Billy has seen a lot of were overjoyed to be able to buy Irish Forever Yours and Allure Bridal to changes in the bridal industry over the products! Catherine Parry – and is currently years he has worked in it. “I became agent for the company, agent for Demetrios and their five “The bridalwear market is and we found that the fabrics they distinctive brands, as well as Tania diminishing now,” he says, “and the Olsen and MonReal. So how did it all had been using to make communion women coming into shops to choose start, and what changes has he seen dresses could be adapted to make their wedding gowns are changing, bridal wear. in our industry over the years he has too. Thirty or 40 years ago, we would “Over the years, I have worked for worked in bridal? some wonderful companies and great be seeing younger girls – say, in their “Back in 1979, I was working in early 20s. Now, the brides-to-be we designers and learned so much from fashionwear, specialising in coats both. I became agent for Forever Yours, see are between 27 and 35, and have and suits,” he says. “At that time one or maybe two children already. and learned a lot from the company’s the market was saturated with
B
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That almost always means they are looking for a dress in a larger size, so shops who buy a lot of stock in size 10 will be missing out. And it’s not just the sizes: some styles are more flattering to women who are size 16 plus, too. Of course it’s possible to let a bride try a larger size and tell her you can alter it if she is slimmer, but that doesn’t work the other way round, so many women leave a shop disappointed. Retailers should look at high street stores like Marks & Spencer, check what sizes they are selling most of, and order accordingly.” Just like everyone else, Billy is aware that the rise on online shopping has had a big impact on bridal sales. “I wouldn’t knock online shopping. We all do it!” he says. “But it does mean that retailers have to try harder and offer brides something that looking at a computer screen can never do. Competition is not always a bad thing. Shops can offer brides an experience, a glass of Champagne, a treat that buying a dress online just can’t give them.” He also emphasises the importance of doing your research before you decide that bridal retail is the job for you. “There are far more manufacturers and suppliers than there used to be,” he says, “But there are more retailers as well, so you need to have something special to offer. For instance, have you found out how many weddings there are in your county, or city, every year? And how many local wedding stores there are to service needs? How can you be sure that you can offer a better service than the others? “At the end of the day, bridal is a business, even if it seems more glamorous than many others. As well as an eye for fashion, customer service, and knowing what brides want, you will need to know about Health and Safety rules, VAT, the taxman, insurance – every aspect of the business you’re in. Perhaps just 20 dresses will perform out of the 100 you bought, and you are left with stock that will depreciate – what should you do then?.” Having seen the business from all
sides, Billy is aware of changes in the relationship between suppliers and retailers, and says he’s not aware of many complaints. “It’s a tough market and we all recognise that,” he says. “We all value our stockists and do our best for them.” Another trend he has spotted is a tendency for bridal shops to steer away from being ‘one-stop’ shops including gowns for bridesmaids and flower girls, and to concentrate on brides alone. Stay focused “It helps if you remember that bridal dresses are your prime business,” he insists. “Plus accessories like veils, of course. With shoes, there’s too much competition online and on the high street. With wedding lingerie, the problem is having to stock so many
Shops can offer brides an experience, a treat that buying a dress online just can’t give them different styles and sizes.” The issue with bridesmaids’ dresses, he says wryly, is that if a bride and four or five friends come into the shop you have to find styles, colours and sizes to suit half-a-dozen girls instead of just the one! “It can be really difficult to get five girls to agree,” he points out. “They will be different heights, different shapes, different colouring; they will all have opinions on what they like or don’t like. Weddings are planned months ahead – what happens if someone loses or gains a lot of weight or becomes pregnant, what can a retailer do about that? Very few shops can keep a stock of bridesmaids’ dresses in all sizes between 10 and 20. It makes more commercial sense to keep size 14s in stock, remembering that brides and bridesmaids are getting bigger.” Of course, two major factors have affected the bridal business in the past couple of years, one being the pandemic, which for a time limited the
size of weddings and meant that some couples postponed their celebrations hoping that things would become easier. The other factor was Brexit. “We found that those marrying during the pandemic tended to go for a simpler, perhaps more boho look,” he says. “Structured styles became less popular. And, of course, when all but essential shops were closed, bridal retail became impossible, although some retailers were able to arrange a loan system so that brides could at least try dresses on in their homes. “Then Brexit of course changed a lot of things for both manufacturers and shops. Some manufacturers chose not to export to Europe because of the customs duties. There is now a 12% import duty plus VAT to factor in, which has had a major impact on cash flow. Freight charges are going up, too. I noticed at London Bridal Fashion Week that prices had increased to take all these factors into account.” Given all the changes that Billy has seen, and the often depressing economic outlook, what would he say to someone starting out in the business in 2022? Are there any grounds for optimism? “I am hoping that anyone who works in bridal realises it is a business,” he says. “It may look glamorous and sometimes it is, but it is a business, too. It’s not a hobby, and as I’ve said there are many factors to consider. There are negative points – there are a lot more bridal stores – and only a finite number of girls looking for wedding dresses. Retailers need to assess the competition and be able to control their stock and their overheads. Some businesses are under-funded. You need to aspire to sell at least 150 dresses a year. It’s not like fashion retailing where you can offer unsold stock cheaply and women will buy a blouse or a skirt and keep it in a wardrobe to wear sometime later. No-one buys a wedding dress to keep in a cupboard just in case! “That said, the retailers doing well, remember the importance of price, quality, and above all exceptional customer service!” WT
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Yes, Yes,
Yes!
Over the years, hundreds of thousands of brides have said Yes to a dress created by the world-famous designer and TV star Randy Fenoli. We caught up with him and got to see a sampling from his latest collection, a huge hit at both London Bridal Fashion Week and European Bridal Week
R
andy Fenoli Bridal was launched in 2017 and took the bridal world by storm. Who, after all, knows more about the women he dresses, than the designer at the creative helm of the famous Kleinfelds store in New York, who made listening a top priority. And taking on board what his brides were saying meant he was perfectly positioned to create what they wanted – with his own handwriting, of course. Randy has been in the business of making dreams come true for 30 years
and in that time he has dressed hundreds of thousands of brides. “It’s impossible to do the maths,” he laughs,” truly, there’s no way to put a number on it.” Each season and for each collection, Randy will produce hundreds of sketches of hundreds of design concepts, before editing them down to what will be his latest line. And his inspiration comes from many directions, but always is based on his personal favourites. In fabrics, he would pick lace as a first choice; in colour would be diamond white or ivory. Silhouette? “I really love girls in fitted
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gowns although I’m most known for ballgowns, I think. I don’t know if I have a favourite silhouette. I love to see a woman in a fitted dress but I also love to see a princess bride in a big ballgown! “I would love to dress Oprah Winfrey,” he says. “I know that she has struggled with body image issues and her weight. She is such a generous and genuine person – I believe she tries to do so much good in the world that it would be nice
to do something to give back to her and make her feel truly beautiful on the most important day of her life.” We asked Randy that inevitable question: Have brides’ attitudes changed as a result of the pandemic? “I think brides are more appreciative of being able to spend time with their families and loved ones, which then makes them understand the importance of a wedding and what it means,” is his verdict. “I think now, since
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they are able to have their wedding, get their dress, and be with their family and friends, it has become an ever grander and inclusive event.” And the biggest bridal trend in the year ahead? “If I could have my wish, maybe a little more modesty,” he says. “I mean after all the see-through dresses and the cut down to the navel, I think brides are going want to be a little more traditional/ conservative.” WT
M E E T T H E DESIGN ER
Miranda Templeton Melanie Metcalfe is the creative talent behind the hugely successful Miranda Templeton collection. Wedding Trader got her talking…
Where did you train in jewellery design? I have no formal training in jewellery design, in fact, I’m a textile designer by trade. However, I designed the accessories for my wedding in 2001 and a lucky encounter then provided the opportunity to work for a leading accessories company. I took a leap of faith, and all my training was acquired on the job. In 2011, I took another leap when Tony Bromilow and I created, Miranda Templeton. In jewellery, were you focused on the bridal/formalwear sector from the start? Yes, when it comes to jewellery design it has, and always will be, bridal design. Over 20 years later, it still inspires me. I adore everything about it, from sourcing components and creating new designs to producing repeats and packing finished
materials will become my favourites for the season. Currently I’m loving the pure glamour of sparkling diamanté particularly the elongated marquise stones in the new City Lights Collection, but pearls will always remain a firm favourite. Your best selling piece ever – what is, and what was the inspiration? There are two pieces which stand out, Gatscombe, from our very first collection and beautiful Anderton, a few years later. pieces, it’s all magical. I could probably Both of these pieces seemed to perfectly live without the paperwork though! capture the mood at the time and both became runaway best sellers. What are your very favourite materials? Gatscombe was a stunning diamanté, These change and I think as a designer bricolage style side piece, inspired by the they should. Over the years we’ve sourced Art Deco revival which was so prevalent in stunning beaded appliques, created our the early 2010s. own porcelain flowers and gone full on Anderton was almost the opposite to with Swarovski crystal. Each collection this, a soft, delicate lace design with a hint has its own personality and those of floral sparkle, which somehow suited
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every bride and perfectly complemented the lace dresses of the time.
brides simply want to wear something breathtaking. Contemporary designs such as the What do you see as the hot trends right Barcelona band from our City Lights now? Collection capture this aesthetic Following such a restrictive period, perfectly, whereas the delicate details understated elegance is important. Think of the Monaco tiara, with its gorgeous simple, sleek designs but with showopal marquise stones, complement stopping sparkle. Larger stones, diamanté the plethora of pastel dresses which and pearl, in purer configurations are key; are making such a splash on the spring it’s a form of post pandemic escapism, runways.
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Are you finding any price resistance post the pandemic? In all honesty, we haven’t really felt this to date, however I feel that the initial euphoria of freedom may now be wearing thin. The precarious global situation
and recent cost of living increases will inevitably have an effect on our beloved industry yet again. How many retailers are you in, and do you sell direct to brides? We currently have around 90 stockists throughout the UK and Ireland, these are our only retail outlets. We don’t sell online or directly to brides as we feel this would
around 18 new pieces. In the meantime ,the current collection can be seen at www.mirandatempleton.co.uk with the City Lights Collection available by the end of April. be unfair to our lovely stockists. Where can one see the new collection? The new collection will debut at Harrogate in September, there will be
Best contact details Tony Bromilow 07962 226543 info@mirandatempleton.co.uk www.mirandatempleton.co.uk
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Demetrios Delivers The Dreams Wherever you go – whichever show in whatever country – you are certain to see the enthusiastic crowds on the Demetrios stand, buyers who expect excellence... and know they’ll get it
D
ream dresses? That’s exactly what Demetrios is known for and what positions it right up there at the forefront of bridal. The brand unfailing brings together the romantic and the contemporary, and its ability to pour passion into every collection, and every gown within each collection, has formed the personality of the house that has captured hearts across the globe. Here, every gown is magical, every fit is immaculate, every detail is intricate, and every embellishment is beautifully wrought.
The fabrics that feature in the new collections from the Demetrios, Platinum, Oreasposa, Cosmobella and Destination Romance brands, are lush and luxurious, stylish, and effortlessly elegant, skillfully worked to define lines and produce silhouettes that are special, and always different. Each label has a distinct personality and makes a statement about individuality and the importance of one-of-a-kind features. So, unsurprising, the latest collections have a focus on streamlining customisations options.
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Retailers know only too well, that today’s bride wants to be involved in every stage of her final look – thanks to social media she has become increasingly sophisticated in her taste and wants to explore every possibility. Demetrios has made this happen, using its inspirational sense of style, and its dedication to quality. Small wonder it is such a big name. Contact: Billy Fitzsimons T: +44 (0)7774 410701 E: billy@ilissafashion group.com W: demetrios.com
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Meet the PRO & MINI
To put the power of steam into your customer’s hands, contact Propress for reseller opportunities. Tel: 020 8417 0660 | Email: hello@propress.co.uk propress.co.uk | @propressUK
Steaming Ahead Meet Tim Oliver – Mr Propress – the man who supplies steaming equipment to top designers and retailers across the globe, and counts bridal shops as his favourite customer sector “The wedding trade is always very close to our hearts,” promises Tim Oliver, co-founder – with his friend and fellow-entrepreneur Brian Fillery – of ProPress, Britain’s leading manufacturer and supplier of
steamers. “Partly that’s because bridal is an area where presentation is vitally important. Those must-have dresses absolutely have to look a million dollars, both on display in the shop and on the day itself. Steaming is part of that. But it’s also because bridal is a friendly and fun business, while being serious at the same time. We believe that one of the secrets of our success is that we really like our customers!” ProPress was founded in 1980 when Brian and Tim became aware of a serious gap in the market. “Brian was exporting fashion to US stores like Bergdorf Goodman at the time and found that goods were being rejected because they were creased,” explains Tim. “He bought an American steamer and used it, and we could see there was a need in this country for something much more user-friendly. “Steamers were unheard-of at that time in the UK. We had to try to generate business going from shop to shop. At first, no-one was interested, but once we had demonstrated our quality products, fashion retailers
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realised they needed us! It didn’t take long for the bridal trade to appreciate us, too. We took our product along to a wedding show in Paris and everyone was amazed at what it could do. “We now supply a huge variety of companies, from bridalwear shops to Land Rover cars (who use steamers on the upholstery), to charity shops, many of whom are using steamers five or six days a week on their donations. And we also supply fashion companies like H&M, Jigsaw and Stella McCartney. “We make two models for retail customers. For bridal shops, the PRO 580 which sells for £625 plus VAT is our biggest seller.” Tim is willing to admit that if your bridal shop offers an alteration service, then you will still need an iron, but points out that steaming has huge advantages over ironing even on the most delicate fabrics and the most intricate and complex designs. “Steam is a natural sanitiser,” he says. “If you look at the research you will see the steam from a Propress combined with its aluminium nozzle,
COULD HANDHELD STEAMERS BECOME PART OF YOUR STOCK?
kills covid and other germs in just 2 seconds. They don’t like a high temperature – and that includes Covid! Steaming everyday clothes means you don’t have to wash them as often. And on a wedding gown, whether the fabric is heavy satin or the lightest tulle, steaming is equally effective. You can’t iron a heavily embroidered gown, but if you steam a dress from the inside you don’t run the risk of damaging any trim. It’s even possible to steam PVC! “Of course, as a retailer you’ll be aware that sample dresses need steaming to keep them looking fresh on the rails. Ironing compresses the fibres in fabric, while steaming plumps them up.” Buy the best It is possible to buy a cheap steamer for as little as £30, but as with many pieces of equipment, you get what you pay for. Tim says he is often approached by retailers at bridal fairs complaining that cheaper models
don’t produce consistent steam, spit water over garments, or leave a puddle of water on the shop floor. “Ours are much more robust and definitely built to last,” he says, “rather than being disposable after a year. We are specialists and have always sold our steamers on quality, rather than price. “We use the best materials and manufacturing techniques. Our steamers have polished aluminium nozzles, rather than plastic – you wouldn’t use a plastic iron, would you? We are a brand that customers aspire to. We just have the one basic product, we know our product and we know our market really well. “And our customers know we are a good company to deal with. The only way to measure any product is by asking: does this item do what I want? Does it perform well? As a steamer, is it easy to use and does it leave fabrics looking great? Our success in five continents and over 30 countries over the years proves that it does!”
Says Tim Oliver: “Retailers have told me that brides often ask them what they – the brides themselves – can do to ensure that their dream dress looks its absolute best on their wedding day. Not just the brides who are planning to pack a dress up for a destination wedding, but including those brides who are marrying in the UK. So there’s an opportunity for you to show them our recently-introduced hand-held model, which retails at £110 or £130, depending on tank size. Some brides-to-be have seen one of our professional models being used in a shop. Without being at all pushy, sales staff can explain that steaming can make all the difference to the way any dress looks on the big day, whether it’s made from heavy satin or light tulle, with embroidery and beading or without. A very full dress can look flat when it’s taken out of a box, but steaming can give it a princess look. Veils and satin shoes can be steamed as well. So, of course, can bridesmaids’ gowns, mother-of-the-bride outfits and the suit the groom is wearing! And, once your big day is over, steamers can be used around the home for anything from removing the dents in carpets where furniture stood, to getting rid of creases in new curtains. A steamer is not a singleuse product!” Want to know more? Email hello@propress.co.uk
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European Bridal Week KIMBERLY
ARIANNA
It was really magical! When you use the slogan ‘bringing back the magic’, you really have to stand out and deliver. And that’s exactly what this long-standing Essen show did last month
B
rexit has changed so many possibilities with the movement of goods to and from the UK, but while British retailers may be nervous right now about buying from abroad, Europeans shops turned out in full force to celebrate the magic of this year’s big show – the key buying event in northern Europe. Hundreds of brands from across the globe, gathered in Messe Essen to showcase their latest collections, and they
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could not have hoped for a better response, clocking up big orders throughout the three- day event. “It was a dynamic experience,” said event director Siegrid HampsinkGosso. ”The work of an amazing team is an essential ingredient in the success story that is European Bridal Week, and this year, all the stops were pulled out to create an unforgettable event. Messe Essen was buzzing: flower-lined aisles, vibrant catwalk shows and the
opportunity for many catch up with colleagues they haven’t be able to spend time with for close to two years. What has been particularly satisfying, are the reports back from our exhibitors, many of whom chose EBW as their sole exhibiting arena this year. Knowing you are recognised as the key platform in this industry is so rewarding.” Let’s see what some of those exhibitors said...
“The European Bridal Week 2022 edition has been very successful for us. In terms of sales results it has been phenomenal. We had the chance to meet with a lot of stores, even from countries we didn’t expect to see. I know we can always count of the great level of service and flexibility of the EBW team, one of the best in the industry! Thank you and see you next year!” Daniella Gargiulo, General Manager Europe Justin Alexander Group M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 67
“European Bridal Week has been amazing for us this year, with a stand fully packed for all three days. We have been so happy so see all our clients back here in Essen and we will surely be back next year! This show was truly magic!” Lisa Chen, CEO | Amelie
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“For ease of exhibiting, there is no more well-organised show in Europe than that in Essen. European Bridal Week staff are a pleasure to deal with and their experience is entirely evident.” Rebecca Macaulay, European Sales and Operations
MGNY
“This bridal show has been the best we have ever been to – this in relation to visitor feedback and orders, to atmosphere and organisation. The timing was absolutely perfect, and European Bridal Week has proven that they do what they say: Bringing Back The Magic!” Christian Köhlert, Owner | Christian Koehlert
“The fact that I had to put on new shoes on the Sunday afternoon says it all! For the whole time of the show our stand was fully packed, and we have been writing extremely good orders. Meeting so many stores in such a brilliant atmosphere has simply been fantastic! European Bridal Week 2022 was amazing; we will be back next year! Rob van den Wittenboer, Monica Loretti M&R Mode Agenturen
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MARYLISE & REMBO
In my mind I always categorise dresses by trends, as it enables me to remember any new directions with ease. At Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, I chose the following categories/ groupings...
JESUS PEIRO
T R ET N S DS RD EN
1. Bridgerton or puff sleeves high waists 2. City mini dresses, slim shapes and uncomplicated dresses and trousers 3. Classic just say what you see 4. Drama, big and bold 5. Lace, sheer, trimmed or with tassels 6. Sparkle for the bold bride 7. Tulle, ruffles and floaty.
BRIDGERTON
BARCELONA BRIDAL WEEK Barcelona once again waved the flag for bridal, with an astonishing few days of designer catwalk shows, followed by the main buying event. Peta Hunt was there
I
was over excited once I had my invitation from the brilliant Eva from XXL Communications (now there’s a genius PR, who has calmed egos from the front row to back stage for years!). I filled out forms, and got into slight panic mode, as the last time I flew to Spain for their bridal Gala Night, I nearly didn’t get on the plane because of my lack of form reading ability, I don’t know about you but as
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soon as I see that form in front of me, I get dyslexic, if that’s possible? Well I am more of a visual person than a numbers one. This time, all the right bits of paper are printed, and in my hand ready, and on my phone, too, I have the magic pass so nothing will stop me seeing the shows – I even arranged to go a night earlier so that I could be there in time and show-fresh for Jesus Piero. Let’s face it, I haven’t seen
PRONOVIAS
MARCO&MARIA
international designer catwalk shows of the standard at Barcelona since the PP (that’s pre-pandemic) days. The shows have always been tremendous. I remember the first time I went, I was completely blown away that they treated bridal as a proper industry, had great models, spent money on staging, and provided amazing images to the press. It was a revelation, and I became a bit of a Barcelona convert, telling anyone who’d listen and many who didn’t how great it was. This time round, I was worried that it wouldn’t live up to my past memories, and fill me with information and inspiration. Although static and online shows filled a gap, there is something magical seeing gowns in motion, and witnessing the direction that designers are moving in. There’s always a general zeitgeist, as if the whole industry moves as one. Catwalks are key, too, for accessories, hair, make up and styling details, which can make
or break a show; you have to create images to resonate with your online viewers... inspiration is everything. You may well be relieved to hear that there was a lot less flesh on show – oh dear, I have turned into my aged Godmother, tutting at excess skin on display, although, skirts with thigh high splits, and two pieces were exciting to see, and had I been shooting for editorial I would have been scribbling down their details. I know they are
brilliant for windows, social media, and for the more adventurous bride, but maybe not so commercial. It’s great that all you retailers have super alterations people that can sew up splits and fill in sheer panels. There were more beautifully cut ‘modest’ dresses. I am not an admirer of the term, but there is something so romantic and bridal about a high neck, long sleeved dress. Lace was everywhere, and I would
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PRONOVIAS
MODECA
MARCHESA FOR PRONOVIAS
NICOLE MILANO
ISABEL SANCHIS
JULIA KONTOGRUNI
CLASSIC
DRAMA like an applause emoji here for Marco & Maria, whose chiffon tulle with dazzling embroidery exhibited such skill, and were a highlight for me, along with the Gala Evening Event which starred Viktor&Rolf with one brilliant dress after another stalking down the catwalk. The mini veil with bow was with the key accessory, which we will be seeing a lot more of. Sitting across the aisle from me was Justin from Justin Alexander. We
chatted briefly about his forthcoming Italian wedding. When you create as many dresses as he does, his finance’s dress is hotly anticipated! It was nice to see older models throughout all the shows, to celebrate the second-time-around-bride or the never-got-round-to-it before bride, and more curvy size models than ever before. Rosa Clara showed modern classics, with the elegant understated
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crepe and lace gowns they do so well. And they threw a fabulous party... the food was amazing. Yolan Cris, is the rock ‘n’ roll of bridal-land, and they demand attention. I loved their tea dress, and their mini, which I’m sure will be seen on many a red carpet. Nicole Milan was a surprise. A very wearable collection, with plenty of variety, and I am assured by eavesdropping on several retailers’
MARYLISE &REMBO
MARCO&MARIA CYMBELINE
HIGAR NOVIAS
LORENA PANEA
HEAD
LACE conversations, that they fit well and are beautifully made! Talking of retailers, it was so nice bumping into Maria and Meb from Mirror Mirror, and Clare and her lovely daughter from The Wedding Club. Poor Peter Langer couldn’t be there – he was a victim of Covid – but his collection was beautiful and we watched a video presentation. I do think designers like Isabel Sanchez need to have a bigger
platform in the UK – please somebody, buy her dresses they are really interesting. Marilyse and Rembo continue to make easy-to-wear dresses for the B2B who doesn’t want fuss, and Sophie et Voila dresses are just fun and make you smile. Once the buying exhibition opened, I took a wander around the two halls, plus the exclusive VIP area showing Peter Lagner, Zuhaid, Tony Ward, Viktor&Rolf and Jenny Packham.
The whole show really was a celebration of how bridal has pulled itself together despite everything that recent years have brought. There was a huge selection of Ukrainian designers, and the plight of their country was acknowledged by other designers. I wanted to see what the British contingent were showcasing, and I had to battle to get onto the busy stands of Alan Hannah and Halo & Co.
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PRONOVIAS
ISABEL SANCHIS
AGNIESZKA SWIATLY
ROSA CLARA
ISABEL SANCHIS
AGNIESZKSWIATLY
SPARKLE
T U L L E / F LOAT Y Without sounding like a complete bridal luvvie, it was comforting to see Mathew from Jenny Packham, it was like a warm hug from the past. The collection was very Jenny – well cut, sparkly and with some great dresses that I can see being worn by the Duchess of C soon, obviously not in white though. Katya Katya was much in evidence, too, so all was well in my bridal world.
Then it was off for a quick change of dress for the grand finale show of the week. I wore black, for a change just in case you’re interested. Pronovias had gathered together every gold balloon in Barcelona and created a wonderful ceiling, and a gold floor. They had influencers, celebrities, dancers, buyers. Zoe from hitched and I sat on a gold stools. The show was a celebration of
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wonderful dresses and Pronovias’s standing in the industry. They covered just about every shape and style you could want and more. The finale was led by a Spanish exsuper model, Esther Canadas, to great applause. We then separated as usual – the buyers to a dinner, and the press to a special party. Flying off on the Saturday with the exhibition still going, I felt that the
ISABEL SANCHIS
CYMBELINE ROSA CLARA
SIMONE MARULLI
JESUS PEIRO
U N D E R S TAT E D C I T Y
world has turned a corner, and that we are slowly getting back to normal. People do care more now about waste, and where things are made, design is alive and kicking, weddings are going ahead and I was happier than ever to be part of this industry. So well done to Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, Eva and team at XXL communications, and, of course, thank you, Spain.
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ALL ABOUT YOUTUBE Jason Granville explain how to set up a YouTube channel that will impress your target audience. First, you have to get the basics right
you may suffer from having unfocused YouTube settings and click on the Verify button. You will be prompted content that lacks cohesiveness and to give your phone number, at which drives would-be subscribers away. point you can select between getting a verification code via text or voice Getting started call. This verification code should If you don’t already have a Google account, you’ll need to sign up for one, arrive quickly. and then head over to YouTube and sign in with your username. Next, you First impressions We all know how important first will find there are certain hoops you hether you are setting have to jump through, such as leaving impressions are. They can set the up your channel for tone for your entire interaction a comment on a video or creating a friends and family, with any given person in any given playlist. a charity, or your circumstance. I recommend the ‘upload video’ business, first you need to know your Your YouTube channel banner will action, as it will give you prompts YouTube channel’s purpose. likely be the first thing viewers and to guide you through creating your This is one of the most important possible subscribers will see when own channel. You will be asked if tips for beginners. Do you want to you want to use the name associated visiting your channel. It’s big and sits share your passion with the world? Is right at the top your channel’s main with your Google account, or with YouTube part of your video content page. Having an effective banner is a brand account. The advantage of marketing strategy to promote your chance to make that good first using a brand account is that you’ll your business? Are you looking to be able to give channel management impression, enticing viewers to stay integrate social media and video and check out some videos. access to multiple people. Once you marketing strategies? Are you trying choose which option you’d like to use, to make your YouTube channel your Artwork business? Knowing what your purpose YouTube will set up your channel. It’s Creating YouTube channel artwork as simple as that. is will help guide you while you start should be no problem if you have creating content. design skills. If you don’t, there are Verification If this is about your business, you’ll several tools and templates online obviously want to brand your channel After you create your YouTube that will make the whole process channel, you’ll need to verify it. This with your company’s name. It is also much easier. will enable certain features that a good idea to link your channel to Canva is one easy-to-use graphic you will not have access to without your website and other social media verification, including having the ability design platform with several YouTube accounts, so everything is reinforcing channel art templates that can help to customize your video thumbnails; everything else. Having a strong you get a jump start on designing your an engaging thumbnail can be the grasp on the purpose can also help own banner. And it’s free. difference between people clicking you seed ideas for the types of video A little tip is to make sure that your to watch your video, or completely content that will most likely resonate logo and text are centralised as your ignoring it. with your audience. banner will have to work on several To verify your account, navigate to As with other social media, if you types of devices. Once you have your go into your YouTube channel blindly, ‘Channel status and features’ in the
W
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Your smartphone could probably While it might be easy to critique the design finalised, go to your channel do the job for now. Instead of getting quality or consistency of your early and hover over the area where your banner would be. You’ll see a camera work, you should be proud of the effort a new camera right away, investigate tools that might make it easier to it took to get there. Plus, early work icon flash up on the top right of the shoot with your phone such as a can still generate subscribers! banner area. Click on the icon and Wherever you are on your learning tripod or stand. Eventually you’ll want upload away! If you have yet to upload any videos, curve, just press record. Start making to upgrade your camera and a solid DSLR should suffice then. your videos as soon as possible. you will need to click on ‘Customize One of the most common mistakes Learning how to start a YouTube Channel’ towards the top right of the channel as a beginner is largely about new YouTubers make is concentrating page. Here you will see a preview of too much on video quality and not pointing that camera and shooting. your channel’s home page. Click on enough on audio. It should be the Play around with camera angles. ‘Add channel art’ where the banner Search for your voice. Figure out how other way around because nothing would be. Nice and easy. to light your shots. Dabble with editing. ruins a video faster than poor sound. If you are building a video content If your audio is not clear, your marketing strategy to promote background music is too loud, an existing business, you’ll An engaging thumbnail can or you speak too softly, you’ll know what services or products you have to offer be the difference between people certainly see complaints in the comments. Make sure that what and to whom you are offering clicking to watch your video, needs to be heard is heard. The them. But if you are getting into best way to do this is by having YouTube with hopes of making or completely ignoring it. strong mics. An often-overlooked it your business, you might YouTube tip for beginners is to have a harder time finding your invest in a good microphone niche. before a good camera. This is your time to start gaining Focus on things you are already As always, a few hundred words experience. Just start filming. proficient in or have established A common concern of beginners is is hardly enough to give you a credibility for. Think of a subject you their camera set-up. Some YouTubers comprehensive guide, but please feel are passionate about and want to might be afraid of looking like a rookie free to contact me if you require any share with others. further assistance. with bad equipment, while others might just be excited for a new toy. Practice makes perfect Want advice from Jason? Contact him Watch enough professional YouTubers Either way, getting the best camera at jason.granville@yahoo.co.uk should not be a top priority. and you’ll find a similar sentiment.
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Peta puts it together
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BLUSH OCCASIONS BY JLM
W
hen I entered the bridal world thousands of years ago, separates seemed quite a normal thing buy. We had a corset top, with or without sleeves and skirt, so nothing unusual there. Then somehow or other they got forgotten and the dress really came into its own. There was a brief period of time in retro land, when girls wanted to wear their corset with jeans, (thank you Posh Spice) to go out post wedding.
HOUSE OF ST PATRICK
Mix and match any way you choose. The designers have gone to town and there are pieces are out there that tell a thousand different stories
CATHERINE DEANE KELSEY ROSE
combinations, wedding day looks can be perfectly tailored to a particular destination – a crop top and skirt for that hot climate, jackets on for a UK wedding. Additionally, choosing a two-piece is quite possibly the BEST way to find ways to wear your bridal look again. Yes, we are back in the 80s, but this time we are celebrating our green credentials, showing that we are not frivolous, but budget conscious and that our future heritage pieces could be repurposed and refashioned. Many of these pretty crop tops, jackets, vests, corsets, can be put with jeans for an evening out, frilly and high-low skirts worn with simple vision, the bargain hunter will be so happy when she can get two looks for t-shirt works for a party or even dinners in the future. her big day, for one price, whether a Separates are easier, too, for mini dress with an overskirt or a fullon ballgown with a body underneath, the bride whose shape requires two different sizes to try and buy. both will transition perfectly from I am certainly not saying fittings day to night by removing one of the and alterations are not needed, pieces involved. but I do think that from the bride’s Let’s face it, the bodysuit is the perspective, it is easier to find a top perfect accessory, it can be worn under gowns to personalise the style and bottom that perfectly captures her sense of style, and find cuts and to the bride’s taste, also allowing silhouettes that flatter her unique for a 2-in-1 look from ceremony to proportions. reception. We are not used to dressing up With the choice of endless
WATTERS
Now separates are back in a big way and not to the detriment of the dress, but as part of the whole bridal wardrobe. Of course, it’s all about our old friend ‘customisation’ and being able to use various components to create your own individual look. (We know how everybody wants to be an individual, following insta trends, of course!) Different times, different looks. Today, we are allowing the bride- tobe to design her outfit. Scary, I know, when there are professionals who do this for a living! Enabled to create her
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ODYLYNE THE CEREMONY
ELLIS BRIDALS
E&W COUTURE
HALO & CO
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simple slip dress or, for the fashion forward, the opportunity to customize her own look. Two-piece wedding dresses let you play with proportions. You’ll never find that with traditional bridal gowns. As ‘Masters of Separates’, Charlie Brear and Kate Halfpenny, interestingly both fashion stylists in Combinations a previous life, have been showing For our old friend the boho bride, retailers how to do it for a long, time, chances are she’s already been because not every bride-to-be wearing a crop top and skirt combo. So by upping the ante come shopping understands how to build an outfit; it does take time, skill and an eye. for her wedding day, a top with Putting on a dress is more delicate flutter sleeves and a flowing straightforward, but starting maxi skirt tick her boxes. from scratch with a basic slip Once the bride has adjusted her dress layering it up takes ability mindset that separates are part of and patience. For me, the joy of the bridal world, we can satisfy the customising a ballgown with a body desires of many, whether they want underneath, is that I can turn a simple a high-street-style trouser suit and dress into my vision. Yes, I want my blouse, or a jacket to dress up a dress to look like a couture gown (I
GRACE LOVES LACE
JESUS PEIRO
in a formal way (I have only just cut the umbilical cord post-covid with my grey tracksuit trousers. Putting on a pair black crepe trousers to go outside I felt so, well, overdressed!) We are gradually getting back to dressing up as the new norm.
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WILLOWBY BY WATTERS
ROMANTICA
SAVIN LONDON
RASHA LONDON
SOTTERO AND MIDGLEY
still have Paris Hilton envy!) but not have to pay that top-end money. In my opinion both Charlie and Kate – and I am on first name terms with both of them – are able to show you how to combine half a dozen different pieces into 20 different outfits. They both should hold masterclasses or have a style off… I’d definitely pay to see that! Kate’s separates allow you to select a cool combination of pieces that give you the opportunity to be a glamourous red-carpet bride with something short and sweet that’s perfect for a civil ceremony. If you’re looking for glamour and simplicity, a top and skirt offers the best of both worlds. The inclusion of removable sleeves sold as a separates with the dress really encourages people to be a bit more interesting and brave in their choices. Again, it’s that whole two looks for the day thing and, if a religious ceremony is planned, jackets and sleeves come into their own. It’s great to see people like
that includes a cheeky pair of shorts and a puffy sleeved crop top which may not be perfect for everybody, but for a beach wedding or as a second dress look, it is flaunt-worthy. The message to brides is “It’s your day, your way”, and that maiden aunts (are there any still invited to weddings?) will get over it, a bride in shorts that is. Alan Hannah has a variety of tops and skirts enabling you to be bold with your choice, and Katyakatya always does a fantastic range of cool all-lace numbers; I love the crop lace top with a tulle floaty skirt. Romantica of Devon in its Pure collection also has a tulle skirt and lace top, but aside from the traditional bridal shades, It is available in black with a blush underskirt for the bride who really
wants to make her day her own. Rebecca Ford bridal, a small UK designer, has a really cute jumpsuit with an overskirt which has a slight 1950s Hollywood vibe about it. And Rima Arodaky made a killing online with her famous jumpsuit with attached skirt, it was one of the most popular posts on social channels. Take a look at Theia for its lace over-jacket with a train from its 2023 collection, it really plays up the style stakes, with a simple crepe dress underneath. For me it’s all about being able to layer, whether you’re mixing and matching an embellished crop top with a structured skirt, a lace overcoat over a dress or opting for a chic bustier and trousers pairing – there’s a wedding look out there to suit every taste. WT
TEMPERLEY
LOVE FIRST BRIDAL
Catherine Deane and Kelsey Rose doing great trousers and jackets – blazers and biker jackets ramp up the fashion barometer. E&W Couture is a must for boho beauties. I loved their blossom top with the beautiful 3D flowers and palazzo pants, although I had a nasty accident in a pair of them a few years ago; not good to run in, I ended up in A&E with a broken wrist, but not everyone is as accident prone as me, and maybe running down the aisle is not a thing? For upgrading classic ballgowns, Ellis Bridals and Sottero and Midgley have beautiful jackets and bodies. Gold stars there! New to me is a company called Stately Soirée and I really admired their short skirt with a huge over skirt. Rasha London has done a combination of fabulous separates
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Mapping Your Progress If you drive, you have almost certainly used a directions app to get you where you are going, but, says Chris Partridge, business owners can take real advantage of the lesser known benefits. Your customers will thank you
your website. If you do not have a web presence (and you really really should) Google makes it very easy to construct a basic website where your catalogue can be uploaded. The profile can also feature a reviews section, so brides can rate your performance and you can respond. A properly-maintained review section is now a vital component of any small businesses’ online image.
O
Valuable extras So, you are set up. Brides (and their mothers) can find you easily and quickly with a simple Google search. But don’t just sit back – every web presence needs constant work. Post regular updates with new products or highlighting the latest trends in the industry. Add personal news about great events you have organised. Try and establish a rapport with visitors to your site. A Google Business Profile also gives you access to valuable information about your customers, including the keywords they use to find you, when they call, reviews and bookings, all of which can be used to grow your client base and expand the business.
80 per cent. Apple Maps follows with about 10 per cent, so it is worthwhile registering there too. Step one is to get a Google account in the unlikely event you do not have one already. Log in, and you will be able to get a Google Business Profile at google.com/business. Enter your store’s name and address with capital and lower case letters and spelt correctly (remember it is what your customers will see first and first impressions count.) Choose the ‘storefront’ category (nonstorefront operations are for home ne of the most important businesses where the owners do not ways a bricks-and-mortar want a trail of people arriving and store can connect with irritating the neighbours.) new customers is by Next, choose your business online mapping. Online maps show category. This is very important as people where you are, obviously, but it shows up on Google searches, so can also give them instant access to everything about you from your store make sure you choose a category that reflects the products and services opening hours, how to get in touch you offer. and even your online catalogue. Once you have registered, there will And the good news is that it is free, though you need to be aware that you be a short delay while Google checks you are who you are, and where you give huge amounts of data on your are, usually by sending you a postcard business away in the process. with a verification code. Simply showing potential Now you are on the map, with your customers your exact location is very basic contact details. The next step is important, especially if you are on a side street – the map will make it clear to add all the other stuff. Basic requirements are phone you are still positioned in a smart area numbers, email addresses and with cafes, bars and all the facilities opening hours. Photographs of the for a great day out close at hand. store’s interior and your newest and Literally getting your shop on best products are a good idea, the the map, is very similar for all the more the merrier. Don’t worry about mapping systems out there, but a photo of the exterior facade – that here we will focus on Google Maps because it is by far and away the most should appear in Google Street View. An absolute essential is a link to popular, with a market share of about
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Other cool things you can do with Google Maps Share your location: Going to a meeting? Why not share your location with the other participants so they can watch your progress? It also ensures you are all going to the same place. When you have planned your drive
tap on the three dots, and select ‘Share location’. A bunch of contacts will appear – click on the ones you want to share with and a link will be sent to them via email or messaging. You will also need to select how long you want to share for, either a fixed time or until you close the app. Find your parked car: Finding your wheels in an enormous car park at a venue can be a nightmare, but Maps has a brilliantly simple solution – when you have parked, tap the blue dot that shows your location and select ‘Save parking’. When you decide it’s time to go home, just press the button at the bottom for directions to your car. No need to tie a hanky to the aerial any more! Orient yourself Normally, the phone map has north at the top, as is conventional, but this
is no help if you don’t know where north is. Get oriented while you are following a route by tapping the compass icon at the top right of the map – this will bring up a perspective view of the road ahead. If you are in the ‘Walking’ mode, you can use the rather amazing Live View to help you find your way around. When you have set your route and started out, select the Live View button at the bottom of the screen and raise the phone so the camera
can see the view ahead. It will then use photos from Street View and other clues such as shop fascias and street names to work out which direction you are facing, and put an arrow showing where to turn. And so you don’t have to walk all the way with your phone held in front of you like a dork, Live View activates automatically. simply by holding it up when you need it. Brilliant for navigating unfamiliar cities when you go to trade events.
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Planning For A Better
Helping you run a more eco-conscious and ecofriendly business, Helena Cotter has done indepth research and shares her findings here
PAPER
ELECTRICITY
The nature of this industry means that we generate an awful lot of paper, and waste, so it might be prudent to move over to e-documents where possible. ✔ Trial electronic signatures on order forms. ✔ Instead of printing off dress orders, receipts etc, email them direct to your customers. Always encourage double sided printing where appropriate. ✔ Shred all out-of-date and unwanted paper and recycle it. When it comes to data protection law it is wise to always shred paperwork when not needed. ✔ Remember, when we throw things away, there is no such place as away. It has to go somewhere and usually to a landfill which can pollute and take hundreds of years to biodegrade.
Electricity consumption in this modern world of ours is off the scale ✔ Every single thing we do every day at work (and home) contributes to our obsession with all things electric. From our mobile phones to computers and every other modern appliance which generates electricity costs us – and the environment in terms of the waste produced. ✔ Doing our bit to reduce consumption and waste of electricity is vital. Just switching off appliances at night is a small step to help curb our waste. Pull the plug out of electronic devices and appliances you are not using. Even leaving a mobile phone charger on at the socket – even when not charging your phone, costs money. ✔ It costs just as much to leave electricals on standby as it does to use them. The simple task of turning things off will of course save you money, too.
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Future... LIGHTS
for energy you haven’t used which items, old irons, steamers, paper, ends up in the supplier’s bank cardboard, and all sorts of every accounts earning interest when it day items can be recycled. could be in your bank account. last, do they!) which are a huge cost ✔ The majority of UK councils have ✔ It can of course be more facilities to take all the goods economical to pay by direct debit. I to retailers, so go for the energymentioned above which are no have found though (in my home at efficient ones. The initial cost may be longer used and recycle them. least) it works out cheaper monthly higher however, they last longer and and over a year to pay the actual are better for the environment. ✔ Pop your postcode into the following UK Government website amount owning. ✔ Take a look here for tips about link for further information: gov.uk/ using energy saving light bulbs. ✔ If you do pay by direct debit, do recycling-collections read your meters from time to time energysavingtrust.org.uk/advice/ as your bills – unless you have lighting/ a smart meter – will always be EVERYDAY CLEANING estimated and not accurate. HEATING There are so many products you can choose from today which are better Of course, your showrooms should for the environment. always be a comfortable temperature RECYCLING for customers. However, turning down Try to recycle the following: ✔ Method cleaning products are superb. Fantastic scents and they your heating by just one degree in ✔ Used batteries. Many contain no hideous chemicals. winter and the same for air con in supermarkets now have battery This makes them kinder to the summer – if you have it – can reduce drop off boxes in their entrances. environment and aquatic life. significantly utility bills. Roughly ✔ Old printers, ink cartridges, toner This company also looks very around 10% of your annual costs. cartridges (which take hundreds interesting: ocean-saver.com/ of years to biodegrade and use ✔ It may be better for you to provide pages/spring meter readings to suppliers up valuable space in land fill monthly. It is really simple to set sites) mobile phones, computer ✔ And let’s not forget, toilet rolls, up. This way you’ll not be paying equipment and other electronic printing paper, pens etc. Choose Bricks and mortar premises use vast numbers of light bulbs (they never
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GREENER DELIVERIES There are greener delivery/shipping methods which can and are having to be adopted because 5% of our planets carbon emissions come from the transport industry. ✔ Be it sent by road, air rail or sea, every item under the sun we use/ need pretty much all come from overseas. It is therefore in those delivery companies’ best interests to try and address the levels of pollution linked to their industries. ✔ hankfully, they are aiming to change by, for example, using up excess space in shipping containers, recycling shipping materials etc. ✔ And as for lorries, something as simple as maintaining correct tyre pressure can help with emissions. ones which are recycled – and ✔ Make your own lunch and bring it to work in a reusable container. recyclable. ✔ Living in the flight path of a local airport, I can confirm aircraft ✔ Set challenges to reduce your ✔ You can of course do your own account for huge amounts of air office and showroom waste and research and find products which and noise pollution with run off of offer rewards – perhaps some best suit your needs. chemicals, oils etc. also leaching eco-friendly beauty care products into water courses. as a prize or a meal out in a local BE THE FACE OF CHANGE restaurant. From your customers’ perspective, ✔ I am confident going forward the air industry will clean up their act. showing them you have a genuine They certainly are here. It is simply commitment to the environment FABRIC AND GOWN not acceptable any more for these will help further build trust. Showing PRODUCTION multi billion pound companies to them that you have taken the initiative The international textile industry not do their bit for the environment. is fantastic PR, and will propel you in general is a major contributor to ahead of any competition. manufacturing pollution. Everything from the clothes we wear to fabric THE BRIDAL INDUSTRY ✔ It is such a hot topic for all of us, any small changes you make will used on office/showroom furniture is I truly believe that the bridal industry, help you shine. Be proud of your helping to contaminate the air, water, which is always at the cutting edge ethics and ethos when it comes to and land we live on. of retail, can be a beacon of hope running your business. and lead the way. Whether it is gown ✔ Designers and manufacturers I know are looking at every aspect of production, shipping or retailers ✔ Where possible, support national and international organisations their businesses to try and become selling gowns and accessories, no which are trying so hard to make even more eco-conscious leaders amount of effort is too small. change for the better. And consider in a global and local way. What All the little and meaningful aligning yourself with charities fantastic news for this industry changes in habits we adopt can add which are leading the way. which can be prone to producing a up to collective big changes for the great deal of waste. betterment of our planet. ENGAGING YOUR TEAM ✔ Fabric manufacturing methods, chemicals used, Getting your team on board with Helena Cotter and the production of gowns, changes is easy. Let them see you E: info@helenacotter.co.uk embellishments and accessories are keen to commit to changes and W: .helenacotter.co.uk are all under review. Read some they’ll follow your lead. Insta: hccoaching interesting information about Twitter: @HCSalesTrainer ✔ Recycle all excess packaging and fabrics here:healabel.com/satin/ Linkedin: Helena Cotter plastic.
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THE HELENA COTTER TRAINING ACADEMY - B R I DA L . E S T. 2 0 0 3 Learn how to work smarter, not harder with a range of Sales Training Courses & services designed specifically for the niche Bridal Industry COURSES INCLUDE In-house training days Online training courses Live chat mini courses Let me help you build a course to suit your professional needs
a a a a
SERVICES INCLUDE Director mentoring Management development Team building One to one coaching FREE ongoing business support.
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Investment costs start from just £225 +44 (0) 1582 451238 and +44 (0) 7896 944759 info@helenacotter.co.uk www.helenacotter.co.uk
hccoaching
Helena Cotter
Providing solutions to the bridal industry for over 30 years. The original shop insurance package built purely for the wedding trade:
• New for old cover on stock • Exhibition cover
• Stock held by seamstresses • Automatic seasonal increase
Get a quote 0161 438 0000 hine.co.uk
ADVERTORIAL
GOING LEGAL
Are you covered for your annual increase in stock? It’s that time of the year when many bridal retailers will be bringing in new stock for the year ahead. As your stock increases in value, now’s the time to review your insurance to ensure you’re not left with a shortfall
H
ine Chartered Insurance Brokers, specialists in providing insurance solutions for the bridalwear industry, explains how underinsurance works and how you can avoid getting caught out. Offer full disclosure For all businesses, it’s essential to make sure that you provide a fair representation of your risks, including all your material assets, to avoid a gap between your policy and how much your business is actually worth. Underinsurance is a huge issue and it’s still happening frequently across businesses in the UK. In the bridal retail industry, there are certain peak times in the year when your
stock is worth a lot more than others, and these need to be accounted for. Otherwise, if something happens, you may not be covered for the full amount. Unless your policy already takes fluctuating stock level values into account, it’s important to let your insurer know in advance so that your cover can be amended accordingly.
PRE-SHOW AND WEDDING FAIR PREPARATION
Will our existing insurance cover us for shows and fairs? All policies are different, so it’s important to check yours to see if you’re covered. Even if your existing insurance does cover events, sometimes they require you to conduct a written risk assessment in advance, whilst others may not. If you don’t get this right, your insurer may fail to pay out should an incident occur.
Want to make sure your show goes without a hitch? As exhibition preparations get into full swing, ensure you take care of the finer details so that you’re covered if things go wrong. Hine Chartered Insurance Brokers answers some all-important questions you may have in advance.
Is it necessary to carry out a risk assessment before every event? Always dedicate some time to assessing any risks prior to the event. You should take all reasonable measures to protect against these before it takes place. Not only will
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this help to keep things running smoothly, it also reduces the chance of people suing you for negligence and, as mentioned above, it may be a stipulation of your insurance policy. Aren’t I covered by the event organiser’s insurance? An event organiser isn’t responsible for exhibitor stands, they only need to meet their own insurance requirements and cover any common areas at the event. Most organisers require you to demonstrate you have certain insurance in place before you can exhibit at the event. Make sure you know these in advance as you may need to take out extra cover if your existing insurance doesn’t meet these requirements.
What cover features do I need for events? Liability cover is vital, so despite this possibly being part of your existing insurance, you will need to check if the level of cover is suitable, and if in fact the policy allows you to carry out activities away from your shop. There also may be some exclusions in your policy so always clarify these in advance. It’s easy to have the mindset that nothing will go wrong, but if it does, and your business is found to be liable, this may not only cause you financial harm but it can also have a detrimental impact on your reputation. If you are taking valuable stock items with you then you should check that these are covered in transit to and
from, and at the event itself. If you are leaving stock at the venue overnight, then please ensure your insurers are aware and have accepted this additional risk.
DO YOU HAVE AN EVENT COMING UP? Our team at Hine Chartered Insurance Brokers can help review your existing cover and provide expert advice and guidance to ensure you’re suitably protected. Call us on 0161 438 0000 or email bridal@hine.co.uk. For more information visit hine.co.uk/bridalwear-retailers/
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WEDDING TRADER GOES LEGAL Every issue we will be bringing you the latest information of new legalities that could affect your business. This is where advice from the experts really matters...
GOING LEGAL
PART
Fashion, 1 Greenwashing And ESG - Are You Sitting Sustainably? The Competition & Markets Authority (CMA) is currently investigating the sustainability claims made by fashion businesses in the UK, and earlier this month, published its advice to government following a public consultation. Stephen Sidkin of Fox Williams LLP explains
I
t is important to know what the CMA’s recommendations are. Accorrding to Sarah Cullen, General Counsel, “…we plan to shine a light on what [fashion]
businesses can and can’t do under current competition and consumer laws, as well as advising the government on changes that will help people shop more sustainably.” As the quote above makes clear, the CMA wants to make it easier for consumers to make choices based on sustainability. It recognises that terms such as ‘recycled’ and ‘carbon neutral’ can be misleading and that consumers would be helped if such terms were defined in law. In turn, this would support the Green Claims Code. The CMA considers that fashion businesses can work together to reduce the impact which the industry has on the environment without breaching competition law. For example, currently, the pooling of resources or expertise to reduce waste by two or more fashion businesses, or via a coordination of its members by a fashion trade
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association ,can give rise to an infringement of competition law. The CMA believes that greater clarity concerning competition law and the issue of sustainability would provide businesses with confidence that competition law infringement would not take place. In this respect, it is worth noting that under both UK and EU competition laws, an agreement between two or more businesses can be written or unwritten as well as formal or informal. Exemption from infringement of competition law can also be achieved where consumers receive what the CMA has described as a “fair share” of the resulting benefits. For example, higher quality goods or lower prices. What is the CMA investigating? The CMA believes that fashion businesses regularly make statements concerning the
environmental characteristics of their goods and their businesses without justification or a lack of evidence to support the claims being made. The CMA points to entire lines being marked as ‘eco-friendly’ or ‘sustainable’ without brands or retailers being able to demonstrate that that the whole process (from manufacture to packaging, sale and delivery) is environmentally friendly. Similarly, where unfair comparisons are made that individual items are “better for the environment” when there is no statement as to how the particular item is better for the environment than another. On this point, Cecilia Parker Aranha Director of Consumer Protection at the CMA said: “I was really sceptical about anybody who is making a sweeping claim that a product is ‘eco’ or “’sustainable’ because the business has to really show that every element of the product from production through to disposal will be good for the environment, not harmful to the environment. “The other thing I would watch is if they say that they’re “made with recycled fibres”. They’re often only made with 16% to 20% recycled fibres”
accuracy of environmental claims. What might the CMA do? Even where such warranties are not At the present time, the CMA is expected to publish in the near future included in the sale contract it is possible that unsupported claims a list of the worst offenders in the could result in goods not being of fashion industry. satisfactory quality and, as a result, Going forwards, having allowed giving rise to claims for damages the industry time to adjust the claims for breach of an implied term of the that are being made, it would be no contract for the sale of goods. surprise if the CMA sought to take • Fashion businesses have an advantage of existing legislation by opportunity to check and make encouraging Trading Standards to changes where necessary to pursue a prosecution against a hightheir supply chains to ensure that profile target in the industry. environmental claims can be supported by evidence. In turn, How should companies respond? this means putting in processes •Businesses should be aware that which will allow such evidence to existing consumer law allows be obtained and maintained. In actions to be pursued against so doing, they may well be able to them by consumers and Trading steal a march on some competitors. Standards if unsupported ESG • Separately, fashion brands are likely claims are made about their goods. to face growing requirements from It follows that it is not a question of major retailers to adjust their supply waiting for new legislation to pass chains in order to ensure that the through Parliament although in the retailers can credibly make their event that there is new legislation, own environmental claims. it is likely only to make it easier • Conversely, brands that make false for claims to be pursued against environmental claims, or claims businesses! • On a B2B basis, increasingly that cannot be sustained by retailers and franchisees are likely evidence, can be expected to to require express warranties by suffer damage to brands and distributors as to the their reputations.
Wedding Trader is working closely with Fox Williams under whose care fashion businesses flourish with everything from securing intellectual property rights to renegotiating agency agreements and commercial leases. (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)
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PART
2
GOING LEGAL
What Should You Do If Your Brand Has Been Hacked? Cyber attacks and hacking generally is not a surprise. A recent Office for National Statistics report showed that whilst most forms of crimes in the UK are seeing a downtrend, crimes involving computers and hacking are experiencing a noticeable uptick. Vladimir Arutyunyan, an associate at Fox Williams LLP updates us
information about employees, suppliers, business partners and customers. Guess was also on the receiving end of a hack in the summer of 2021. In this case, criminals were able to obtain social security numbers, ID numbers (driving licenses and passports) and financial account numbers. Chanel suffered a similar fate with its South Korean operation, which resulted in the leak of names, personal information and shopping histories. When hacks occur, the Information Commissioner’s Office expects companies to deal with them proactively and ensure that serious breaches are resolved effectively. Guidance on how this can be achieved is set out below.
A
What do hackers want and how do they get it? Fashion brands are a gold mine for data that can be exploited. Hackers target: • clients’ personal information.
t the beginning of the year, Moncler made the headlines after a ransomware attack was successful against its systems. The leaked data included
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• financial information. • operations and systems. This is all readily available, especially when brands have online shops. Hackers can do this through: • data breach – targeted attacks into secure log ins, where they obtain information • ransomware – where access to files or systems are blocked until a ransom fee is paid • denial of service attacks – where a system or server is flooded with targeted requests, preventing legitimate requests from being fulfilled What actions should you take if a breach occurs? In the UK, the ICO will expect a brand to do the following if it finds itself the victim of a cyberattack. • Carry out a data breach risk assessment – is there a risk that data subjects will be seriously affected by the breach?
WT
• Inform individuals who have been affected by a high-risk data breach without delay • Inform the regulator as soon as practically possible and in any event within 72 hours When providing details to affected individuals, a brand needs to inform them, in clear language, of the nature of the breach and what personal data was affected. They should also be provided with details of the relevant contact point or the details of the brand’s data protection officer (DPO). It is recommended that individuals are provided with information on how the brand will assist them going forward and any actions they can take to protect themselves. ICO guidance outlines that this may include: • forcing a password reset • advising individuals to use strong, unique passwords • telling them to look out for phishing emails or fraudulent activity on their accounts If after a risk assessment, the
Reporting the data breach If a report to the ICO is necessary, then it is important that the following information is captured: • the approximate number of affected individuals • how many personal data records were affected • the name of the DPO or contact point details • the effects of the breach, and actions taken in response.
include contingency measures. However, as it may be difficult to plan for all eventualities, the following best practices will also limit what can be hacked: • do not store sensitive data in clear text – pseudonymise or encrypt • ensure access is on a strict basis • don’t hold onto incomplete or old data, whilst it may not be relevant to your business, it can expose the data subjects to malicious actions from hackers • ensure the company carries out appropriate security policy and regular cyber security training for staff • carry out regular information risk assessments •maintain a response and recovery plan. WT
Take home points If you find yourself on the receiving end of a cyberattack, it is important to be as prepared as possible. Planning in advance is ideal, and is likely to
Tom Morton is a specialist property litigator and Elizabeth Ruff is a real estate partner at Fox Williams LLP www.fashionlaw.co.uk www.foxwilliams.com
brand has decided that a notification to the ICO is not necessary, it is still highly advisable that the company records information about the breach and actions taken in response. If the ICO decides that an investigation is necessary, the company may be asked to justify the decisions it made.
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“I have been more than delighted in recent months and leading up to the buying season, to find just how helpful suppliers can be – and are. And I am starting to judge the value of new brands by the way their reps work. You good guys know who you are.” “Love views please on best ways to sell shoes. Am I better off to have a selection of heel heights and sizes for customers to try on with the dresses, and to give them websites where they can buy direct? It strikes me that to sell, one needs real space and a great selection of styles and could be left overs later.”
REEM ACRA
“So, I planned a day at the London show, and ended up staying for three - there was much to see, and touch! And so many many people to catch up with. It is only when you see them again that you realise however good and efficient communications via Zoom are, and however delightful chats on Facetime can be, there is nothing, but nothing like the real thing. And all those hugs, each day – I think that’s what I have missed most. in all those long, lonely months, now behind us.”
“At Excel, I was so aware of the lack of international buyers, those from Europe in particular, but I do understand from friends and colleagues in Italy and Portugal that that deliveries from the UK, since Brexit have been a real nightmare, not only in terms of timings, but also with customs charges that must put brands in a whole different price bracket. Will things ever change so that our domestic businesses can thrive with orders from overseas?”
“I recently went to European Bridal Week in Essen for the first time. What a joy! So many labels that I was not familiar with, and so many very different trends, not only in bridalwear, but in occasionwear, too, which is something I was particularly interested in. What I found especially exciting was the whole buying experience; visitors at that show were seriously ordering and from what I could gather from some exhibitors, Up and downs, ins and outs, ordering big. With but so much to look forward to the way the market is changing generally, I wonder now if the time is right to be Want to ask a question, buying stock, as they do in or voice a view, and do it Europe ,rather than samples. anonymously? Surely brides would prefer Get in direct touch: to buy there and then rather email me – than wait – sometimes for susi@rogol-goodkind.com – many months?” and we’ll print it name-free.
And Finally
96 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 2
