Wedding Trader - issue 38 by Love Our Wedding

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Retailer events

ARE THEY REALLY WORTH IT? FOR E R E H GREAT THE ITISH BR WEAR AL BRIDTAILERS RE

ISSUE 38 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

The 2024 exhibition schedule GET INTO PLANNING MODE NOW

The right audience THE ONES THAT SAY YES

Harrogate highlights THE DRESSES TO LOVE

Heading off THE CURRENT GROWTH IN DESTINATION WEDDINGS

WT37_Romantica DPS

BRITISH BY DESIGN A huge thank you to our partners old and new for a busy fair at Bridal Week Harrogate. We are grateful for your continued business and support and look forward to catching up again soon.

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Atelier ELYSEEBRIDAL.COM

Contents 11

NEWS New collections, people and places

F I RST P E R SON Laura Daly and sustainability

L ET TE R FR OM AMER ICA Peter Grimes on cautious optimism

T HE P ERFECT A PPOINTMENT Get the structure and content right and your brides will spread the word

EX H IBITIONS OF THE F UTURE Sue Lovell looks at yesterday, today, and ahead to tomorrow

SHOW TALK The atmosphere in the halls, the views of buyers

COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS Peta Hunt picks her fave frocks

RETAILERS’ QUESTIONS Christine Skilton on the Harrogate FAQs in her advice clinic

HARROGATE HIGHLIGHTS Wendy Adams on what made the September show special

T W IA 2024 Applause for the Retail finalists

VIEWPOINT Emma of Miss Bush on the sense, or nonsense, of certain promotions

IN CONVERSATION WITH... Wedding Club’s Claire Thompson

HOW FIT T ING Get it right from the start, says Laura Daly

S HINE AND S PA R K LE CME is a name to know

YOLANCRIS One of Spain’s absolute best

THE RBA AWARDS Happy in Harrogate

DESTINATION WEDDINGS The places and the people

B R IDESTAL K Home or away?

T EC HNO Drawing the right picture

S HOW DAT ES 2 0 2 4 Diary at the ready

STRICTLY L EGAL Terminating contracts

ELIZA JANE HOWELL

The Wedding Club Knightbridge

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www.belovedbycasablancabridal.com

ELYSEEBRIDAL.COM

Ed’s Letter

e’re getting an increasing number of comments – and thanks – from readers for opening up our platform to include more in the way of retailers’ views, and the questions they want to ask others. The answers, they find, often underpin their own thoughts and it is the sense of community that results that serves to forge new and better relationships within the industry. Perhaps it is the difficult times that create a togetherness that we all value. One boutique owner told us recently that having seen something in Wedding Trader she had made contact with another retailer in the same area who, in the past, she had regarded as “the competition”. A couple of conversations and a shared bottle of bubbly later, they are confidantes, and working together to strengthen their separate businesses. Stories like that are heartwarming and show how much can be achieved when you compare and share. With Christmas nearly here, and a new year to look forward to, there is an air of optimism in the industry, with wedding figures heading up – although styles of weddings and budgets may necessarily be more tightly controlled than ever before. We must all get used to the new world and the new way of business and keep our expections realistic. Those who stay aware and ahead of the game will WEDDING undoubtedly be the winners. Our very best to you for a happy, healthy and successful 2024.

Trader WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE 38 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

Retailer events

The 2024 exhibition schedule

ARE THEY REALLY WORTH IT?

GET INTO PLANNING MODE NOW

FOR HEREGREAT THE ITISH BR EAR ALW BRID AILERS RET

Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding “I found it fascinating to read about what Maggie Sottero is doing to help protect our planet.” (p80) Martha Cooke Head of Ad Sales “Having a complete schedule of next year’s trade events makes forward planning a real doddle.” (p94)

THE ONES THAT SAY YES

Harrogate highlights THE DRESSES TO LOVE

Susi Rogol susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Deputy Editor Jade Pepperell jade@meanttobemedia.com

Sales Manager Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com

Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com

@WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader

weddingtradermag.com

Trader WEDDING

The right audience

EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND Andy Allen Art Director “We’ve heard how successful the advice clinics are at Harrogate. Expert advice is the best.” (p48)

Editor

Heading off THE CURRENT GROWTH IN DESTINATION WEDDINGS

Cover image: Adelaide by Casablanca Bridal

Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 18 Taylors Lane, London SE26 6QL. Tel: 0785 558 7219 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com

Wedding Trader magazine is an online magazine read by the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is the trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish:

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ENZOANI.COM

LOVING DEMETRIOS Demetrios is a heritage bridal company that was founded in 1980 by its namesake designer Demetrios James Elias. The brand was established in New York City and today has grown into a globally-recognized bridal brand with authorized retailers in more than 80 countries. The focus is on beautiful design, superb quality, and making bridal luxury accessible to all. The brand portfolio consists of five bridal lines, Demetrios, Platinum, Cosmobella, Oreasposa and Destination Romance, and one occasionwear collection, Demetrios Evening. The company is known for innovative designs and by constructing transitional elements that allow brides to customise and personalise their dream look throughout the day. The possibilities are really endless. Talk to Billy Fitzsimons on 07774 410701 or email billy@demetrios.uk.com to find out more.

TALKING POINT

The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 11

THE BIG MAC STORY Mac Duggal has made his mark on women’s fashion by merging his sophisticated design aesthetic with the rich, opulent hand-beading traditions of his native India. Since launching in 1984 with just ten dresses, Mac Duggal has become one of the most sought-after names in occasionwear, and is known around the world for creating exceptionally flattering pieces for women of every age, shape, and size. s A favourite among celebrity stylists, Mac Duggal has dressed A-listers like Gwyneth Paltrow, Carrie Underwood, Vanessa Hudgens, Kylie Jenner, Eva Longoria, and Khloé Kardashian. In 2015, Mac’s daughter joined the fashion house and launched her own collection, IEENA. While staying true to the Mac Duggal standards for quality and luxury, Ieena’s designs have a signature style that’s all her own – blending edgy modernism and timeless sophistication. Mac’s innovation in evening wear has gained him international recognition through hundreds of awards, as well as an induction into the Smithsonian National Museum of American History in Washington, DC in 2017. Season after season, the Mac Duggal Design House continues to showcase one-of-a-kind collections featuring their signature luxe fabrics, intricate hand-beading, and feminine detailing. From couture one-of-a-kind styles fabricated for red carpet, to cocktail dresses and gowns to mark special occasions and milestone moments – these are the gowns that make a timeless and ageless fashion statement. For more information, email info@macduggal.com.

LOOKING FOR STAFF? Looking for a job? Helena Cotter has created a jobs vacancy page on her website, aware that there are no employment agencies dedicated to our industry. Advertising is totally free – Helena decided to offer this service as she believes it is important to give something back. “Bridal has been very good to me over the years,” she says. Send her details of any vacancies you have and whether you are a retailer or wholesaler, and she’ll put it on the page and also repost it through her social media platforms. For anyone looking for staff or anyone interested in getting into the bridal industry, this is a great resource. www.helenacotter.co.uk/bridalindustry-job-vacancies

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A WISE RANGE Rainbow Club has introduced an expanded collection of Wide Fit silhouettes for SS24. The edit is comprised of new designs, alongside best-sellers now available in a wide-fit option, balancing style and comfort in equal measure. Available in sizes 4-9 and half sizes, the EE width fitting ensures optimum comfort. All of Rainbow Club’s wide fit styles can be hand-dyed using the brand’s Colour Studio service or bespoke colourmatched with the brand’s Couture service. Prices for hand-dyeing start from £20. The 2024 collection will be available from February 2024. Pre-orders will commence on 4 December 2023. www.rainbowclub.co.uk.

NEWS YOU’LL LOVE Award-winning Australian bridal brand Grace Loves Lace is expanding into wholesale in the UK. What began as a new and creative approach to bridal back in 2011 has grown to extraordinary global acclaim, with the brand opening 26 showrooms worldwide and announcing revenue growth of 115% in the past three years. Launching into the UK with a showroom in London’s Shoreditch in 2017, this space has remained the brand’s only brick-and-mortar location in the UK & Europe, seeing extraordinary demand for appointments, with 80% booked up on average throughout the year. With this type of popularity, it seems logical then that the UK formed part of the initial wholesale strategy, helping to make Grace Loves Lace gowns more widely accessible to brides around the country. The full stockist list is to be announced but given that this is the brand’s first expansion into wholesale globally, it’s huge news for the creators of the most-pinned wedding dress.

Josephine Scott 2024 Robes de Reve, the new collection from this wonderful label, represents a continuous flow of luxurious designs, born from the imagination and creative genius of Josephine Parkhill, who is proud to work with boutiques that listen to, are inspired by and truly understand their brides. Softer silhouettes with luxury 3D appliqué laces, beautiful French leavers lace, opulent jacquards, and soft silk organza feature, along with prints and a variety of textured plains that make each gown stand out. Detachable sleeves and customisation options are offered for most gowns to allow brides to adjust gowns to suit their personal style. www.josephinescott.co.uk

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SOPHIA TOLLI A U S T R A L I A

Fantastictoto see many familiar faces Bridal Week Harrogate and thank you and Fantastic see soso many familiar faces atat Bridal Week Harrogate and wewe thank you and ournew new business partners busy event and support you have given allallour business partners forfor aa busy event and forfor thethe support you have given us. us.

www.sophiatolli.com denise@galaxyagency.co.uk www.sophiatolli.com || denise@galaxyagency.co.uk

First Person

individual espousing the benefit of sourcing Sustainability is the buzzword. prominent a vintage dress, or wearing something less traditional, or even hiring a wedding dress, all in the cause of what Laura Daly has an opinion

o, what do we think about the concept of sustainability? As consumers become more conscious of the potential environmental impact their purchases have on the planet, it’s only normal that this trend will start to spill over and eventually influence their choice of wedding suppliers and, of course, their gown. As it becomes the norm to know where your sweater was made, surely it follows that increasingly brides will be similarly inquisitive about their dress. When well-known mainstream fashion retailers are offering clothing containing recycled fibres and fabrics, and frequently using words such as ‘ethical’ and ‘sustainable’ in their product descriptions, then how long before we are expected to follow suit? I don’t think we’re quite there yet - not with our core customer at any rate - that famous ‘wedding bubble’ is still enabling the majority of mainstream customers to think their dresses are made by fairies out of unicorn tears… but you can be pretty sure it’s coming, sooner or later. And, when this new wave of eco-consciousness hits us, we are going to need to be prepared and know that what we are selling fits our customers’ expectations. As we approach 2024, I’d say it’s more important than ever that we bear this in mind and, when we’re purchasing our stock, we give serious consideration not only to the fabrics and provenance of the gowns we choose, but also to the number we are expected to buy and, indeed, the way we are going to dispose of them once they are no longer relevant by virtue of discontinuation or simply not selling. We need to think about this because, the more we buy, and the less life on the rail a gown has, the more shops spring up in response offering these ex-samples and end-of-line styles at knock-down prices. This might be good for the customer - but, of course, if she buys there, she won’t be buying from you. So another sale is lost. As purse strings tighten across the nation, the idea of a secondhand dress or something discounted off-the-peg becomes more and more appealing to a greater number of brides. Add in to that the occasional celebrity or, how can I put it, other 16 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3

they may very well genuinely believe to be the morally superior thing to do and, ironically, not even outlet sales are guaranteed these days. You will no doubt be aware that some bridal companies are already addressing the fabric issue and, hopefully, in the near future, more scrupulous manufacturers will act similarly. But everything falls down if the subject of minimums isn’t also addressed. Disappointingly, yet again this year, some designers’ minimums have increased, more dresses than ever are getting discontinued, and all this shifts the balance even further to the detriment of the traditional bridal shop model. I heard a few horror stories at Harrogate from retailers who simply couldn’t justify continuing to buy so many samples and ended up locking horns with their suppliers who were insisting they comply or the account would be closed. Sad days indeed. So, what actions can we take to help our industry, our retail sector and our individual businesses survive? Perhaps consider stocking fewer labels - and support labels that are willing to talk to you about skipping an occasional season if necessary or who are flexible regarding minimums. Ask manufacturers about the details of the fabrics and production so that you’re prepared to answer your customers’ queries correctly. If you’re already working with a great supplier who is making a true effort in sustainability, then shout it from the rooftops - let your customers know you’re ahead of the game. Recycle your own dresses wherever possible, so that not so many gowns end up in discount outlets, and the ones that do aren’t ones that will affect your sales so much. In addition, I would urge any wholesaler who would like to think of themselves as ethical, or who claims to have anything more than a passing interest in the notion of sustainability, to consider offering smaller collections and making fewer discontinuations in the hope that it reduces the number of redundant dresses clogging up stock rooms, or filling discount stores, or simply adding to the endless volume of waste at the world’s landfill sites. I could easily go on here to add my thoughts on pricing structures and the need for more private labels… but I WT guess that’s a discussion for another time!

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ronaldjoyce.com

Peter Grimes Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

A LETTER FROM AMERICA

Cautious optimism, with an undercurrent of dread. That would be the mood of buyers and brands at the bridal and special occasion trade events across the US this year

ptimism as the result of a combination of factors – many boutiques reported strong store traffic the second half of August and through the month of September; the excitement and activity at Markets and the enthusiasm put forth by gown and accessory brands; and the anticipation of a return to pre-COVID engagement levels for 2024 as projected by Signet Jewelers, the largest jewellery company in the United States. According to a company presentation at the Goldman Sachs Global Retailing conference in September, Signet CEO Virginia Drosos suggested that nearly 2.8 million couples, on average, get engaged every year in the United States, but for 2023, the number slipped to 2.1 to 2.2 million. Signet expects engagements will increase to 2.4 to 2.5 million in 2024 as it rebounds to pre-COVID numbers within the next two years. (Note: Signet pays particular attention to the trends in engagement and wedding rings as bridal jewellery reportedly accounts for approximately 50% of its overall merchandise sales.) So how does it look? The question, of course, is how those numbers will translate into gown sales and the actual number of weddings in 2024, especially considering the impact of long engagements and other changes in brides’ shopping behaviours. Cautiousness over the unknown short-term effects of increasing costs of consumer goods and services (including gown and dress costs, freight charges, etc) on brides’ budgets; dread (and an understandable somberness) over the other unknown impact of a horrific war currently waged between Israel and Hamas… a visual

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reminder on display within the isolated halls of bridal market by the empty stands of Israeli designers. Although each boutique is planning on addressing any uncertainties and/or disruptions unique to their markets, consistent themes emerging from multiple conversations included these: Understanding and accepting the fact that turmoil such as this also enables a real-time opportunity to reinforce the value of their brand, service and style by providing a solution for the bride’s needs in a caring, non-judgemental, authentic environment that is also particularly sensitive to her increased anxiety levels Utilizing this time before the start of the next bridal season for a thorough review of each step in the process of meeting her needs, including prequalifying a bride prior to store visit via text messages, and a renewed focus on what follow-up procedures are in place for buying brides… and the procedures for reengaging those brides who walk without making a decision Re-envisioning and reformatting on-line calendar and scheduling apps to offer additional information and options for the bride, such as listing different appointment types (VIP, standard and trunk show), wedding party size options, mid-week discounted private appointments, and trunk show alerts A sometime-grudgingly acceptance of the need to further ramp up social media and other marketing and promotional efforts as a long term play to effectively communicate their unique brand… an especially important effort in uncertain economic environments Scheduling and structuring year-end hospitality training for stylists to help them better prepare for a more stressed and indecisive bride.

• •

•

• •

Other issues talked about at Market covered a broad range of topics, many showing that retailers have much to consider ongoing. Topics included: Open-to-Buy: Boutiques are benefiting from a more selective approach to their buying, as they continue to focus on those brands performing well in their stores, while looking critically at the strength of and support offered by new resources they might be considering. The approach/attitude is essentially determining what ‘holes’ exist in their current selection that could be filled by a trusted vendor; investigating why a collection is underperforming to determine if it might need to be dropped from the mix; as well as re-evaluating an existing vendor’s customer service and store support vis-à-vis its increasing minimums and product costs. Private-label collections: Private-label bridal and social occasion as a category appears to be having an increasing impact as boutiques showed an active interest in considering the possibility of incorporating private-label within their merchandising mix to complement off-the-rack and branded goods offerings.

success that appears to have enticed others to revisit this niche. Indecisive brides: Boutiques are struggling to help their stylists work through the frustration of lower sales due to the continuing indecisive nature of today’s brides who, though convinced they’ve found the gown and loved the experience, cannot make a decision nor be dissuaded from going to their next appointment. Hints of vibrancy: The evolving style, design and fabrication of gowns and accessories displayed at Market hinted at the industry’s continued vibrancy, as did the number of brand new resources… a combination that helped encourage their cautious optimism for WT the coming season.

CHICAGO

Stores buying direct: Boutiques shared stories and opinions about the options and dangers of buying direct from off-shore factories boasting non-verifiable claims of being the primary producers for well known and established brands. MOB sales: Mothers-of-the-wedding clients continue to be a bright spot in bridal retail, as boutiques active in this category report consistent sales through Q3 into Q4… a

AT L A N TA

LAS VEGAS

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For more information, please contact: Michelle Blackburn | Tel: 07935 156275 | michelle@casablancabridal.eu or Stephen Whitty | Tel: 07825 789650

www.casablancabridal.com

PRETTY PERFECT Sue Lovell on creating the best possible appointment structure that will spread the word about your business, and the way you look after your brides

Step 1: Set the stage ear Bridal Retailers: we are Before the bride walks through our the masterminds behind doors, with her wedding dress dreams glittering window displays and aspirations, let’s ensure she and bright lights. We make dreams come true (and we can crush knows what to expect when she is them too with the slightest misstep or with us. It starts with the website, our virtual misunderstanding). Yes, we’re in the business of selling window, and how we communicate with our potential clients, the ease wedding dresses, but it is more than that, we sell dreams. It isn’t all about spreadsheets, bottom lines, and “It is better to let a sale bank accounts, latest collections go, if every fibre of your and signing contracts; it’s about so being is telling you that much more than just transactions. It’s all about transformation, new you are going to regret it.” beginnings and adventures. And trust me, every bride needs her fairy of our booking system and how godmother, and that’s the role we we interact in all our social media can fill perfectly. We were born into platforms and online presence. this role – you wouldn’t be in bridal if Our website is often the first port of you weren’t a people pleaser, and if call, the very first interaction with us, you didn’t get huge satisfaction from so make sure it is fresh, friendly and seeing others see themselves as reflective of your store. Make sure she beautiful, often for the first time. knows the price range, to avoid any We know what makes us good at financial embarrassment, and find out what we do, and we know we make ahead of time if she knows what she magic happen! But what makes for a is looking for. If she clearly states she perfect appointment?

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Sue Lovell Owner of Susan Nicholas Opulent Bridal, Cambridgeshire

wants a t-length, and you do not have a single short dress available to try, it is better to make that clear before she leaves home, than when she excitedly walks into the store. Step 2: Welcome in! A bridal appointment doesn’t begin with the sparkle of a veil or the train of a gown. It starts with the aura of our store, the untouchable, but the discernible. The ambiance, the lighting, even the scent - every detail whispers a promise of the magic to unfold. Grab her attention by soothing her senses, not assaulting them with

overpowering air fresheners or loud music. I have spent a lot of time researching the scents that I have in my studio, as I want my brides to be calmed, but feel excited and to know that cleanliness is a top priority, without being hit in the nostrils with the smell of bleach or cleaning fluid. Step 3: Assemble your dream team Just as every bride needs her trusted entourage, we need our dream team. Even those of us who work alone, we often have a team behind us, or if totally flying solo, we know that we know our products, we have years of experience and we are trusted professionals. We know we offer a service and an experience that is far more than clothing related. Our team doesn’t have to be employed directly by us, they could be third party seamstresses, marketing agencies and of course our designers. If we have a good designer, we have the confidence in knowing that their team is our team, and on our side. A good rep is part

of our team, being part of a Trade association provides back up and support, so even if you are on your own, you are never isolated. The very best bridal consultants are the ones with the empathy of a best friend and the keen eye of a fashionista. The ones who know that behind every “It’s lovely” is a world of unspoken thoughts. We can read people’s body language and we listen to not only what is said, but what is communicated by not saying much. We listen and we observe and most of all, we care. If you have staff, then training is key, but remember, we’re not just teaching our consultants to sell dresses. We’re teaching them to listen, to interpret, and to guide. We want our brides to feel not just seen but understood. It isn’t always easy to open up to a complete stranger, so we need to give our brides the confidence and the space to be honest, with budget, areas of body concern or the style they want.

Our brides needs to know we are on their side, we want them to have the dress they truly want – we don’t have an agenda (other than of course we want a sale) but sometimes a bride needs help expressing her own opinions and requires validation, that perhaps she knows she won’t get from everyone in her bridal party. Step 4: The alchemy of choice Yes, we pride ourselves on our vast collection, but offering a myriad of choices isn’t just about quantity. It’s about quality, variety, and, most importantly, understanding. As curators of wedding day dreams, it’s essential to balance the latest trends with timeless classics. Every bride, whether she dreams of boho chic or vintage elegance, should feel like her dress was crafted just for her. She should feel seen for who she is, not just what she is wearing, and most importantly she should feel like herself, as that is where the confidence comes from, being authentic.

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Step 5: Crafting the moment Ah, the climax of our tale! That sigh, that tear, that indescribable emotion when a bride finds her dress. Our role? To create an atmosphere where this moment can naturally unfold. Remember, we’re not pushing for a sale; we’re facilitating a discovery. Sometimes, it means stepping back. Sometimes, it means offering words of affirmation. Always, it means being present and attuned to the moment. It is not a time to mentally start paying bills; it is time to stay focused, ensure she understands delivery dates, sizes and cover all the options. Step 6: Beyond the sale: building memories Closing the sale is a milestone, but the journey doesn’t end there. From that first fitting to the final pickup, every interaction is an opportunity to reinforce trust, offer reassurance, and craft memories. Let’s not forget, our brides aren’t just buying a dress; they’re investing in a dream. Our job is to make every step of that investment feel worth it, and by keeping them up to date, keeping up the conversation over the weeks and months, and developing a rapport

that goes beyond the appointment time, we can continue to build up the trust, and the anticipation. Like Uber shows you where your taxi is, that its on its way to you, offering you a sense of security knowing it’s heading towards you, rather than hoping and guessing it’s close, and having to call to be reassured - by keeping in touch, we keep up the confidence and reassurance that we are seen and our needs will be met. In my opinion, the perfect bridal appointment is when a bride wants to buy, before she has even found her dress she knows that a dress, will be her dress, and you will be with her every step of the way. She knows that you understand her style, her figure and her budget, and she knows that she can trust you to deliver on every promise you make. She and her family or bridal party know that they can leave your store, confident in you and your product. Now, sometimes we get a feeling, deep down that tells us that something is not right, and I honestly don’t know how to explain it. It’s a little voice, or a screaming red warning sign, that a customer is not going to be ‘your’ customer. They may sign the contract, and give your money, but

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you know deep down that they are not going to bring you peace, joy or any satisfaction. Whether a connection is not made, or we just do not gel, it is important to know that not every customer is a good match. The needs of some are better served elsewhere. That tingling sensation that we get needs to be heeded. It is better to let a sale go, if every fibre of your being is telling you that you are going to regret it. A few days in your bank account is not worth the stress that you know is going to come your way. We can make sense of so much, but sometimes there is no reason, other than instinct to know that a customer is not a good fit, and it is best to part ways amicably, avoiding the drama that you know will unfold. Some people come into our lives for good, some are best to be avoided, and often we can spot them, but as we want to maximise our sales and our people pleasing DNA can’t be supressed, we quieten that instinct; we ignore that little version of us, waving hands around maniacally saying “run for the hills”. But it is okay to listen and to walk away, on good terms – but quickly. Don’t look back, don’t second WT guess yourself,

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Sue Lovell Owner of Susan Nicholas Opulent Bridal, Cambridgeshire

Exhibitions; Present And Future

From Harrogate I brought back more than a fabulous new collection as Covid, for the third time, wrapped its tendrils around my respiratory system and rendered me horizontal for a week. Sue Lovell reports

hilst making the most of my enforced down time, I got to thinking about the changes that have been made, and wondered what more we can do when we socially interact in the future. As we get to grips with living with the realities of Covid, and being free to spread it without restrictions in public spaces, we are all far more aware of our impact on the planet, as we endeavour to be more environmentally friendly. Even the most diehard of climate change deniers surely know the stupidity of confusing climate change and seasonal changes. The planet has undoubtedly heated up, and the fires, floods and all round catastrophic climate-related disasters cannot have gone unnoticed. They may not have directly affected us, but as we watched Rhodes and Maui burn, holidays, weddings and honeymoons were disrupted, livelihoods were devastated, and lives were lost. We cannot continue to ignore what isn’t always on our doorstep – because our doorstep may be next. Climate changes are not just happening to other countries, we are all on one planet, and we are all connected. We may think that if we pull up the drawbridge, we will be safe – those days of moat-related safety precautions are over. We must move our thinking into modern times, we must watch and learn and look to build new protections, and to limit our actions that add fuel to the fires, and ferocity to the floods!

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Close to home In the swirling landscape of modern commerce and interaction, exhibitions have always held a magnetic allure, especially Harrogate. It has a special place in our hearts and is the perfect place for brands to showcase, network, and forge lasting connections. I am very pleased to hear Yorkshire will hold the Spring shows once again, and very impressed with the commitment to sustainability that the Harrogate Conference Centre (HCC) has shown. However, it isn’t just in Harrogate: the tapestry of the UK’s exhibition industry has undergone profound transformations in the face of Covid and the clarion call for sustainability. The word ‘unprecedented’ may have been overused in recent times, but it’s hard to find a better descriptor for the meteoric impact that the pandemic had on our industry. At the onset of Covid, bustling exhibition halls turned eerily silent, and glittering displays stood dormant. Yet, amidst the challenges, emerged innovation and adaptability. The physical became digital. Virtual exhibitions, augmented reality showrooms, and interactive webinars to sharing screens, from in-person pitches to virtual walkthroughs. Zoom calls are an everyday event now; we are regulars in virtual meeting rooms, and dab hands at having sales pitches offered through the screen in Teams. The shift was not merely a stop-gap, but an evolution,

searching for a useable station, or sitting for a few hours in a queue to get an available pod. I do recommend the train – it was fast, efficient, and relatively low cost. I also had time to chat to the very lovely Suzanne from Sonsie, who not only kept me company, but got me on the right connection, and ensured I had my suitcase with me, as I initially left the Greater space train empty handed! Thank you, my lovely lady, I would I noticed at Harrogate that we didn’t seem to be have been lost without you! crammed in the aisles and packed in to seminars as in At the show, I managed to see and order from the previous years. We did seem to have more space to Sonsie collection. Their stand was fresh, friendly and the breathe, but although mandatory masks, and sanitisation models were so engaging and ready to showcase the stations are no longer compulsory, I do think there is a dresses. If you are in the market for affordable, and very newfound emphasis on attendee health and safety. well made and designed, plus size gowns, then definitely We are more aware, and take more notice of our take a look at Sonsie. surroundings, we bring our own hand sanitiser, we hug I was very grateful to see EDit in the flesh, too! As and kiss less, but as I proved with my own little petri dish you know I was seriously perturbed when I heard that of incubating virus, we are not free from Covid... we just Elizabeth Dickens was retiring, but all is learn to live with it. Our own little world “The challenges have well, as I saw for myself the quality and may shut down, but the greater world around us doesn’t have to. been many, but so are the production values that EDit have, Thankfully, even before Covid the opportunities” under the tutorship of Nina and Alan. My top styles have been replenished, cast its shadow, a green wave was and my veil faith restored. It is good to see products in sweeping across the exhibition sector as sustainability person, and although I like a zoom pitch as much as the ceased to be just a buzzword — it transformed into an next person, you can’t replace the senses, and the feel of imperative. a veil is very important to me. The days of single-use banners, non-recyclable Interestingly, the pandemic inadvertently furthered the brochures, and wasteful giveaways are fading. Instead, sustainability cause. The move to virtual events slashed stands made of recyclable materials; digital catalogues, transportation emissions. Reduced physical footprints and eco-friendly merchandise are on the rise. meant less waste and decreased energy consumption. The lessons from this inadvertent experiment? Flexibility Saving energy and adaptability can lead to both health & safety and The illumination of an exhibition hall can rival a small environmental conservation. town’s energy consumption! Forward-thinking event As we gaze into the horizon, it’s clear that the future of venues such as HCC are transitioning to LED lighting, exhibitions in the UK is not just about bouncing back but some are using solar-powered equipment, utilising rain about leaping forward. The emphasis will be on creating water, and show organisers are choosing exhibition hybrid models: events that marry the tangible benefits spaces with high energy efficiency ratings. of physical exhibitions with the accessibility and reach of Zero-waste goals are no longer lofty ideals. From digital platforms. compostable cutlery at food stations to dedicated Moreover, sustainability will be at the core of this recycling zones, waste management has become a evolution. Not just because it’s expected, but because focal point. HCC is working with Green Circle Solutions it’s essential. As stewards of commerce and industry, we to develop a carbon-reduction strategy. It all goes a long bear a profound responsibility to lead the charge towards way to reducing the damaging footprint we leave behind a greener future. In bridal, we don’t just sell fabric, we sell when we order our stock and catch up with the catwalks. the future - we sell new beginnings – so it is important that we contribute to the success of that future. Travel options We must let our exhibitors and event organisers know With transportation being a significant contributor to that we see the changes made, and we appreciate carbon emissions, for the first time ever, I travelled by them. Let’s craft exhibitions that are not just showcases train to Harrogate, mainly due to the fact that I was of products and services, but beacons of innovation, worried my EV wouldn’t get me there without charging, resilience, and responsibility. The challenges have been as I am still not confident with the reliability or availability many, but so are the opportunities. of charging stations. Range anxiety is still a big issue for Here’s to forging a future that’s safe, sustainable, me, even with 250 miles in my car, it is not enough to get and resoundingly successful. me to Yorkshire and back, and I wasn’t looking forward to WT bringing broader global reach and 24/7 accessibility. We embraced the new technologies, and now I don’t think we are in a hurry or even of a mindset to return to how things used to be; we enjoy the freedom the virtual and remote world has offered us.

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HITTING THE HARROGATE SPOT Two award-winning retailers recall their favourite things at Harrogate

Rebecca Baddeley The Dressing Rooms Halesowen, West Midlands

pink meets subtlety! It was so much fun! The dresses were, of course, beautiful and again very commercial. arrogate was a really Josephine Scott had a fabulous interesting mix this new capsule collection called The year for us. The most Avenue, which was inspired by a visit outstanding Collection to TDR, which is lovely to know, with for us was Ronald Joyce; Veni just affordable, high-end luxury suffused keeps pulling it out of the bag and with fashion-forward styles. her collection this time around was Morilee were right on point as not only breathtaking but also very always and we loved our time at the commercial. gorgeous Ellis stand. Casablanca, too, We also loved our time at Allure – the set up was amazing – think Barbie were stunning.

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We didn’t take on any new collections at Harrogate because, to be honest, there was nothing that was the right fit for TDR. We gained lots of content which we are able to use throughout the winter months, in particular the catwalk main where Rachel Allen stood out, and the Allure stand. Our best-selling labels right now? They are Morilee, Enzoani, Ronald Joyce, Casablanca, Justin Alexander and Allure.

Rose Calvert, Vicky Robinson and Diana McMann The Little Pearl Pickering, North Yorkshire

his show was a great one for us. We came away feeling really inspired about where the boutique and collections go next. It helped us make some firm decisions and it was great to see designers more flexible on terms and ways of working together. I personally loved offering advice to other retailers as part of the BRSA clinics. It was great to see other retailers wanting to learn and develop their skill set. There was a real buzz in the academy area! We loved the gorgeous new dresses from Stella York, with a few show-stopper gowns that are a bit different for Stella but which I think will be great for our brides. We took on WToo, which we are really excited about, and we bought into a new shapewear collection. With in-house alterations we are getting asked a lot about these so from Patricia Eve was the perfect choice! We also added a new Rainbow Club shoe collection for January delivery –brides often struggle to find the perfect footwear. On top of all that, I found a new short dress collection which I’m super WT excited about.

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HARROGATE Helena Cotter took the opportunity that Harrogate presented to gather opinions and garner attitudes from visiting retailers. We asked for her findings...

always look forward to this show. It is one of the reasons I enjoy working in the industry. Meeting up with likeminded people, be they retailers or designers. Admiring new gowns and seeing which direction the fashions are going always excites me. It is staggering to me how companies can come up with different dresses every year. Also, who doesn’t want a fantastic few days away in Harrogate which is such a beautiful town. To me, and I am sure many other people, Harrogate is simply the home of bridal. Catching up with all the latest news in the industry is important, too. And, of course, seeing sales training customers of mine. This is obviously crucial to ensure I stay on top of my courses enabling me to continually tweak and deliver relevant services to customers. As the industry evolves, so do I. Plus, this year, I have been working with Alan and Marguerite Hannah and have been appointed the agent for their MiaMia label. The icing on the cake is that they had a super show in Harrogate, which is fantastic.

Buying trends There was definitely some nervousness regarding purchasing this year. Speaking to numerous retailers during the show, it would appear they are becoming much more cautious now than they have ever been about where they spend their hard-earned cash in comparison to previous years. Times are tough for everyone it seems, so buying decisions are now honed to perfection with little or no room for error buys or wild, off-ona-tangent purchases, to the extent that some retailers in passing told me they don’t wish to deviate at all from their trusted existing labels, be they wedding dresses, prom or bridesmaids gowns. Having said that, several retailers I chatted to had taken on a new label at the show which they believe they can truly sell in numbers. Sometimes, we have to take a gamble, don’t we? As the saying goes: “Fortune favours the brave”. In years gone by, the good old days one might say, buying was easier. Now today, it isn’t the same at all as small businesses try to stay

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one step ahead of any apparent competition in a very diluted marketplace. Some retailers told me they have made lists in advance of where they were going in terms of gown suppliers and were not really venturing away from that list. Some were there simply to top up, in their words. This is interesting, as historically Harrogate September was always seen as the main show of the year and not a fill-in show. I didn’t see many retailers going up and down and up and down the aisles as we all did in previous years. And I didn’t often see the same retailers go by several times, which in my experience, happened a lot previously. It was really much more targeted. Perhaps that’s no bad thing. After all, when brides do the rounds it can drive all of us mad! Duration of the show? I was very surprised at how many retailers I spoke to who were only at the show for one day – the Sunday. One person I talked to had travelled well over four hours to get there on that day and went home later that evening. This is interesting as in previous years, most retailers were there for at least two days, and many for the full three. Again, in times gone by I can remember leaving the bridal shop I worked at on the Saturday late afternoon and wouldn’t be seen

TALK again at work until the following Thursday! In the days when the show was from a Sunday to Wednesday, it was full on. And, as for the parties, well. Yes, we all worked hard and played hard back then. I didn’t get the feeling there were too many do’s or events this year. Maybe I just went to bed too early and missed them! I don’t mean to say the fun has gone out of the industry now, it just seems to be more serious, in line with how hard businesses are working to be able to enjoy continued business success, whilst at the same time trying to have a smaller piece of what appears to be an ever-diminishing pie. Teamwork or solo trip? Many of the people I spoke to were on their own or with partners. There were some with their staff also, but in the main, solo. It can be difficult to galvanise everyone who works in a boutique together at the same time, so this is understandable. Also, if the boutique needs to be open, someone has to run it in the absence of the owner/manager. Noone wants missed opportunities, and it would be a shame for a business to fail to get customers in because they are closed, due to having to attend a trade show. Customers, after all, often have short attention spans and will definitely feel no qualms about going to another boutique if you are shut.

Wages may come into it, too. Paying people to attend plus accommodation, food costs, etc can really mount up for a small business. Minimums, lead times and purchasing habits Minimums are always an issue with some companies having very high ones and others not so much. Where minimums are quite high, retailers really do need some flexibility. For some small businesses it simply isn’t possible to keep ordering more and more and more every year. The other side of the coin is that where the minimums are lower, a retailer does need to take a reasonable number of sample gowns in order to fully invest in a label. Lead times are also important, particularly post Brexit and all the complications which can arise from dresses being manufactured overseas, so questions about this were often asked. Customers enquired quite a lot about where gowns were made and by whom as a growing number of retailers prefer to stock ‘Made in the UK’ labels exclusively where possible. International shows Footfall, in my humble opinion, felt like it was down this year at the Harrogate show. I’ve spoken before about the sheer number of international trade shows and how the buying calendar is now full to the

brim. The business model of staying in the UK for all one’s buying trips are, I believe, over. A lot of retailers I know didn’t go to the Harrogate show this September simply because they had already completed their buying in Barcelona earlier in the year and were off to (or had been to) New York and other cities around the globe. Everywhere is so accessible today, it must make sense to spread out far and wide to experience what other shows offer when trying to keep the edge in business. Where does the UK show go from here? This is a difficult one because my areas of expertise absolutely do not include organising international trade shows. I cannot imagine how difficult it must be to pull together. From the other side of the fence though, how do you encourage more footfall, how do you stand out in the overcrowded trade show market? The hardworking organisers could perhaps take a leaf out of the other shows around the world, particularly the Barcelona show, which I have been to a couple of times. It is the pinnacle of a wow factor experience both for buyers and sellers. The whole run up to it generates excitement and anticipation. I feel it... and I don’t own a bridal boutique! It is a stunning show, beautiful, bountiful and appeals to buyers and sellers WT from all over the globe.

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PETA’S PLACE

Unique Selling Proposition stood out, for all the right reasons and had a point of difference. Handwriting was what I was looking for, a strong style with personality. This is so important now, especially as fabulous dresses demand great images. Websites and social channels are the first introduction for many brides in their dream dress search. They all scroll through dress after dress after dress, on all platforms at a dizzying speed. To make them stop, look and take note we need inspiring images of timeless wedding dresses that will turn dreams into reality, and whether it’s a refined style or a majestic ballgown the dress needs to stand out and get added to the wish list. This season, I was determined to not look at another strapless dress with a cascading handkerchief pointed tulle skirt, or a dull A-line gown with thin straps, trumpet skirt and a mean train. I wanted to see a touch of drama, not the same old same old thing on 20 different stands. Having a point of difference and arrogate, along with seeking standing out from the crowd has to out future winners, is also be in the right way; it’s the USP, the about meeting up with handwriting, the reason a retailer designers. We all need a is drawn to a stand. Whether that little catch up/warm hug. I had had a few lattes so the conversations flowed collection comes from a new designer freely from my side anyway, or is that a or old friend doesn’t matter; dresses need to have identity and personality. monologue? Wandering round the exhibition, my There’s a tricky line to walk down mission was to search for dresses that when you’re designing and shooting

A unique selling point (USP), also called a unique selling proposition, is the essence of what makes your product or service better than that of the competition

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a collection – there are so many constraints. It needs to appeal, be on budget, be a showstopper, illustrate the details and have a hint of romance about it - not always an easy combination. Of course, everyone will have a high-neck lace dress; everyone will have a slinky dress. But it’s the design, the cut, the fabric and details that make great collections. The combination of the dress and the image has to set the mood in a more, as we used to say, “editorial way”, driving the bride to lookbooks. This is a tricky stage as the untrained eye can be fooled into seeing what appears to be the same dress repeated over and over and over. And while looking online, you can’t feel the difference between one lace or another, you can’t see how well a dress is made, or the internal corset’s structured, or the lining or the weight and flow of a dress. On top of that, what looks great on a model may not translate on a ‘real’ person. Sadly, a couple of designers had tales of being blatantly ripped off. I spoke to one at Harrogate who had had her collection bought by somebody, then returned with design notes on each dress – basically, how they were copying them. Now that is blatant. No matter how many cease and desist letters are sent out, people will copy. It must be soul destroying

MIA MIA

ELLIS

ALAN HANNAH

PURE BRIDAL

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JUSTIN-ALEXANDER

CATHERINE DEANE

and they might not all be the most commercial, but they do fill your heart with joy. (See more about them on page 56.) E&W Couture is a Welsh company whose dresses are figure flattering and comfortable. Made in Wales, I love their statement that they want “To make your guests salute you for So what I did love... being you.” Bravo. At Harrogate, I had planned to scout Also, nice to see Scandinavian around picking dresses that all have something slightly different to say and designer ByMalina showing; they design easy-to-wear dresses reflect the brand’s USP; this is more for the modern bride. They are a important than ever right now. well-respected name in their home I walked through the doors of the country, known for their mix of fashion Conference Centre, intent on finding dresses that to my mind were original, and bridal. It was a pleasure to see the new window-worthy, and demand to be Casablanca collection – just because tried on. What makes a dress resonates with they’re a big manufacture doesn’t you? If only we knew, and could bottle mean that they don’t have dresses with a point of view. And Freda Bennet it. In a weird way, after a while I think you begin to almost get a sixth sense is always interesting, creating big dresses that look fresh and modern. about what draws you to a particular Of course, you can spot Eliza Jane label... Howell’s handwriting a mile off and I was delighted to see my lovely friend Walter on the Yolan Cris stand, the line didn’t disappoint with plenty of beading, fun feathers and a nice every dress on there makes me smile. You might not love all of them new fresh look. The Alan Hannah

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ALLURE

when you spend all that creativity, time, money and effort developing a dress just to have it copied – or rather stolen – by someone often selling it for less. That’s why strong relationships and sharp eyes are so important.

SASHA LOOCHI

SOTTERO-AND-MIDGLEY

REBECCA-INGRAM

KELSEY ROSE

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cool, unique bridesmaids dresses but there was a very super cute mini bridal dress, perfect for an evening wedding, dancing, a wedding abroad, or, if in the US where they love a three-day wedding with pre, post, actual wedding dresses, and evening dancing dresses – a retailer’s dream to sell four dresses to one bride. Ellis Bridals, a great British heritage brand that has moved with the times, had a strong beautifully thoughtout collection with many highlights. Sister brand Kelsey Rose is another that should be on every modern bride’s shopping list. I was not the only one who loved the collections and also the design of both the stands – they created the perfect exhibition environment. (I will be using the black and cream inspo for my new house, if I ever get one!) Romantica basically took over The Crown Hotel. There were highlights in all the collections. I liked the fabrics used, 3D flowers and beading in the Pure collection, and I loved the red carpet/Hollywood vibe of Jennifer Wren. The new images got a gold

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star from me. I thought James had put a lot of effort into identifying who their bride is and really went for it. Strolling up the hill – I say strolling because I had new white Birkenstock clogs on, risky I know but thank heavens there was no rain... white suede and puddles do not mix! I stopped off for an ice cream – thank you Allure, not only for a huge variety of collections, each with something special, but for a great ice cream tub with biscotti crumbs!! I really enjoyed seeing the Justin Alexander Signature collection. I can’t help it, but I simply do love a crepe dress, so understated and lux looking. Out of the thousands of dresses at Harrogate I definitely scythed my way through acres of gowns and found plenty of beautiful eye catching dresses, well worth the early Sunday morning start, seven hours in the car with the lovely Sara Groom from Hitched. There is nothing like a garage sandwich, bag of crisps and a bottle of water to fuel the post WT Harrogate analysis.

FREDA BENNET

E_W-PORTMIERION

BELOVEDBYCASABLANCA

and MiaMia stand was packed, but I managed to spot a couple of well-cut but stylish dresses. I am a huge fan of how they combine their separates. It’s all about the fabrics, too. New to me was a company called Sasha Loochi, who steers away from fast fashion, and aims to create beautiful dresses, with a strong look. On a confident bride they’d be stunning, so they’re on my list. Another newbie that interested me was NR Couture… drama queen alert. Josephine Scott had a very interesting collection; I wouldn’t be at all surprised to see Holly Willoughby in a few of those dresses in the near future. Upstairs, it was great to see Maggie Sottero taking over, they really go above and beyond to help. There was a buzz around the pink ballgown and I loved the draping and floaty sleeve on the Maggie dress. And Rebecca Ingram’s short dresses were a joy. Spotted Dama Couture, pretty dresses and fresh ideas with plenty of 3D fabrics. TH&TH not only had

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MIA MIA

LILLIAN-WEST

JOSEPHINE SCOTT

ELIZA JANE HOWELL

CASABLANCA BRIDAL

JENNIFER_WREN

ANSWERING RETAILERS’ NUMBER ONE QUESTION Christine Skilton of Christine Skilton Marketing was one of the experts who took part in Harrogate’s Bridal Retail Success Academy, in which shop owners could learn from the best. We asked her about the most-frequently asked question, the one that comes up time and time again

ost asked at the Advice Clinics over the past three years has been: “How can I get more appointments and reduce cancellations?” Covid has caused consumer shopping behaviour to shift drastically, leaving bridal retailers struggling when it comes to attracting new customers because they either have chosen not to address this or simply just don’t know how or what to do. Starting with your website: this is where 95% of your customers will

first come across your business, and one of the most used touch points for visitors to your store. Visitors might not be booking appointments with you for a number of reasons: 1 The visitors to your website are genuinely not interested in your products and services. 2 Your content isn’t clear and is not speaking to the right audience. 3 A change of customers’ shopping behaviour These issues can result in your business not having the quality, quantity and qualified leads that

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you need to get visitors booking appointments. Let’s have a look at what we can do to fix this. Problem #1: Lack of visitors A serious lack of visitors to your website may lead to you finding yourself stuck in the Fast and Furious cycle. You are now rushing to do ‘The Sprint Method’, which is not consistent, and a sudden rush of appointments that could result can be incredibly stressful. What causes inconsistent appointment generation is: • No plan • Relying on referrals • Attending events occasionally • Random marketing campaigns When you rely on referrals, inconsistent event marketing, and do not have a plan in place to generate the majority of your appointments, then you’re only going to attract appointments around the time of your events. Solution: Work harder on marketing If you want to gain consistency with getting more visitors to your website

then you should advertise regularly on Google, Facebook and other relevant social media platforms, which should bring you a reliable feed of visitors that in turn give you more appointments. Another great option to consider is continuous SEO (search engine optimisation) to help your website rank higher on Google and other search engines. Also, having in-house events on a regular basis will lead to visitors talking about your business online and to their friends, giving your business the valuable word of mouth and added-value marketing boost. Problem #2: Low volume of high quality leads If you have a low volume of visitors coming to your website you may not book appointments, and those who do book may cancel or result in low conversion rates because they may not be the high-quality leads you need. A low volume of high-quality leads may be caused by a number of things including: • Little or no marketing • Not doing the right type of

marketing on the right platforms • Relying solely on referrals from previous customers • Relying only on your website and SEO to attract clients • Not giving enough reasons to book an appointment Solution: Start with planning and researching a marketing strategy for your business and implement it as soon as possible to attract more customers. You will find that a combination of online advertising, SEO and email/text marketing can help your business achieve improved results. You need to nurture your visitors. This is where your social media planning comes into play alongside your email and/or text marketing. Your target audience needs to find something of continuous interest, otherwise they will most likely forget you. A nurturing strategy will also weed out unsuitable visitors. You can also send out emails and texts reminding them to book an appointment with you.

Problem #3: Low appointment conversion Okay, you’ve managed to attract a whole lot of visitors and appointments, but most of them cancel nearer the time. You want your visitors to convert into appointments, and become customers. This will not happen if they are not qualified or blown away by your offers. Visitors don’t convert if: • Your content doesn’t appeal to them • Your brand message doesn’t match their standards • Your offers aren’t attractive enough for them • Your website is ‘clunky’ and difficult to use Solution: Sell your appointment to the right customers. Not only has consumer shopping changed, appointment shopping is now a popular practice for brides-to-be. We now have to “sell” appointments and this is a whole new ball game. If you want your visitors to convert quicker and guarantee new

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customers for your business then you need to research and develop a strategy to target the market to your ideal customers. Selling tips for appointments: • Set a clear goal • Know your customer inside out • Ask for the appointment

pursue them and follow up their enquiry then they’re going to go elsewhere with their business. Over my 20 years in business I developed the concept of BEST (Brides Expect Special Treatment), which leads to higher engagement from brides and greater team participation.

Get to know who your target market is and develop content that speaks directly to them. Understand your ideal customers, their demographics and psychographics. This will help you create marketing that will directly target your individual audience. Understand WHERE customers are hiding: • On your customer email list (Build your list) • On other suppliers’ lists (Build your partner 100) • On Social Media (Build your social media audience)

Solution: Develop Automated Processes. The best way to ensure that your team can be quick to follow up on leads is to bring in automation. You can automate text messages, emails and voicemails that will help your team get more appointments scheduled and it involves very little manual input.

A key strategy is to show proof to your audience that your business can solve their problems. Problem #4 : Follow-up If your sales team is out of touch with your customers then you’re going to lose more appointments than you gain. Customers aren’t going to want to work with you if you don’t try to make an effort with them. All customers want to feel special and if your sales team don’t actively

Problem #5: Accountability Your appointment system is broken if you do not have accountability. Some boutique owners understand that accountability is important, but don’t know how to create a culture of accountability. They just hope it will happen. Remember “Hope is not a strategy”. Accountability starts with you. You need to model the behaviours that you want to see in your business. You are accountable for any failures as well as any successes that your business delivers. Attracting more appointments is a major part of this. Accountability is not a one-time thing, it is a job. Those who don’t want to be accountable, or held

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accountable are always looking for any opportunities to get out of it. You need to be seen as being accountable at all times. Accountability cannot be delegated, it is up to you to take accountability for your appointments. Accountability is the difference between success and failure. Solution: Create Your Overall Strategy. Get an accountability partner to ensure you keep driving appointments to your business. Develop your overall strategy that will help you market to the right customer and attract more appointments. This sounds so simple but to get any results you have to take accountability as zero accountability is equal to zero results. Accountability is the secret ingredient that turns all those good intentions into actions and actions into results. At Christine Skilton Marketing we help develop processes and systems that deliver continuous visitors to your website and email list and keep your appointments flowing. If you’d like to learn more about our marketing solutions, accountability partnership and how to build trust, increase your traffic and book more appointments, schedule a free 30minute consultation with us at WT www.christineskilton.com

HARROGATE HIGHLIGHTS Wendy Adams on the September Harrogate bridal show, and the highlights that really stood out for her

his year was a particularly special one: retailers and suppliers gathered from across the globe to celebrate 40 years of bridal exhibiting in Harrogate, the ‘Home of Bridal’ – and I have been involved since 1986! So what made this year special? ♦ We invited everyone to a drinks party on Monday at the close of the show and had drinks and a cake provided by the Harrogate Convention Centre as a thank you for the industry’s support. ♦ This September’s event welcomed new collections from an array of over 300 bridalwear, accessory and occasionwear brands from around the world. ♦ Our catwalk shows saw a dazzling display of bridal fashion. Set against the gorgeously grand backdrop of the Royal Hall, trend-setting looks took to the stage. Applause

goes to Dando London, Diane Legrand, Ellis Bridals, Evie Young, Fox Bridal, Jessica Couture, Jeune Bridal, Kelsey Rose, Lore, Madi Lane, Moonlight Bridal, Rachel Allan Bridal, Rachel Allan Prom, Romantica, Sasha Loochi, Shane Moore, Simply Divine, Sophia Tolli, and White Studio London. ♦ Across the Sunday and Monday, the Bridal Retail Success Academy provided retailers with the perfect opportunity to take their business to the next level. This educational offering allowed visitors to gain one-to-one personalised advice to discuss all things bridal from marketing to financial planning, and social media to sales. Thank you to Abi Neill, Diana McMann, Christine Skilton, Jo Stott, Julia Smith, Maria MusgroveWethey and Megan Garmers for sharing their in-depth knowledge and experience with visitors. ♦ Wendy Rivera and the full Do You Speak Bride team were present for three days of insight and information. ♦ The Gin Bar, Bubbles Bar and Platinum Buyer Lounge (sponsored by Bustle & Bertie) provided complimentary refreshments and places to relax. WT

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Retailers making their mark Throughout this month, the finalists in each of the eight regions in the 2024 RETAILERS ESTABLISHED LESS Awards will gather together THAN FOUR YEARS at individual events to learn West Midlands Annabel Sarah Bridal who is the winner in each. Brides View Elsie May Bridal Ltd Then, on Wednesday 24 Jacqueline Louise Bridal January, at The Underglobe The Bridal House London, the National South Central Margaux Mae Bridal Awards will be staged.

f the total of 27 categories in this year’s awards programme, two are dedicated to retailers – one for those who established their business in the past four years, and the other for those who have been operating for longer than four years. Our very best wishes go to all the finalists. Visit the-wedding-industryawards.co.uk for regional winner updates and also for information on the National Awards night.

Olive Blossom Bridal Ltd The Hideaway Boutique Queen Bee Bridal Your Story Bridal Boutique

East Midlands Ashleigh Richards Bridal Bellamme Bridal Bridal Reloved Caistor Champagne & Lace Bridal Wear Charlotte Elizabeth Bridal Ivory Fox Ivory White Bridal

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South West Bridal Reloved Street Elizabeth Anne Bridal Lara Belle Bridal Boutique South East Beths Bridal Bijou Bridal Studio Bridal Reloved Rustington Lily Jacobs Bridal Boutique Yorkshire and North East Bridal Reloved Morpeth Darling Brides EB Bridal The Bridal Box Boutique The Little White Dress Company East of England Butterworths Bridal Lily Francis Bridal Rock Your Curves Silk & Maple North West Isabella’s Closet Bridal

RETAILERS ESTABLISHED MORE THAN FOUR YEARS West Midlands Aisle of Brides J and J Designs Bridal Tamsin’s Bridal Boutique South Central Creatiques Bridal Boutique Olivia George Bridal Pure Couture East Midlands Alice Rose Bridal Dress Me Pretty Bridal Room La Belle Bridal Boutique The Wedding Room South West 14 & Sixpence Bridal Reloved Street Bride by Design Elizabeth Anne Bridal Lara Belle Bridal Boutique So Gorgeous Bridal

THE JUDGING PROCESS

South East Aurora Bride The Farnham Boutique Yorkshire and North East Bijou Bridal Boutique Dotty Bridal Goldie’s Bridal Pretty Panache East of England Bella Sposa Bridal Boutique Coco Couture Bridal Dress Code Nine Shades of White Enchanted Bridal Boutique Harvey’s of Ramsey Bridal Boutique Oliver’s Bridal & Formalwear The Bottom Drawer Bridal North West Along Came Eve Altergirls Glasgow Isabella’s Closet Bridal Bijoux Bridal BRIDHA Carol’s Bridal Boutique Liverpool Bridal Boutique

All judging is undertaken individually, remotely, independently and without consultation to ensure that no single judge in any category has undue influence over any other judge. The result is the most rigorous judging process in the wedding industry. Abi Neill Bethan McCall Cynthia Grafton-Holt Debbie Cook Ellie Sanderson Laura Daly Melanie Storer Rebecca Baddeley Rhiannon Moore Susi Rogol

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This is why, we are who we are! No minimum order quantities No surcharge for plus-size orders Modifications at very modest pricing World-class customer service Large assortment of immediate hanging stock 60 years of exceptional industry experience

Get to know us better : Krystal Bridal Agency - Michelle Blackburn 07935 156275 Michelle.Blackburn@treschicbridalwear.com

TRESCHICBRIDALWEAR.COM

A HEARTFELT VIEW Emma Meek-Marshall tells it like it is – in black and white

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VIEWPOINT

THINK ABOUT THIS... A question to Emma of Miss Bush: “Designer days or in-store events or dressing up your shop for the festive season - do they actually result in business?”

ith impeccable timing, the morning after a catastrophic flood at The Chapel, an email from Susi asks me for a marketing/ business advice article. Ahead of the good stuff, let me dwell on the bad. Shit happens. Floods can happen and given the excessive development, building and ransacking of the local environment on my doorstep, coupled with climate change, shit will happen more. Back in the day, when I thought Luxe Bride as a trade group was a viable business idea, one of the most valuable courses I thought we could teach was contingency planning. It’s not sexy, just sound. Floods, fires, pandemics, deaths, serious illness, succession, financial hardship, supplier failure and infidelity are not things that happen to the next person. Over the years, I have had to contend with bereavement, divorce, a convicted sex offender as a landlord and a second flood. If your contingency planning is not sound, hosting designer days and events is like arranging the proverbial chairs on the decks of the proverbial Titanic. Designer Days The biggest single problem with designer days is that there are very few designers. Many successful bridal labels are effectively Bridal Banksies. Faceless superbrands whose seductive digital presence trumps any real person and any real-life experience. How can you celebrate the designer when it’s the ‘content creator bride’ that becomes the pin up girl? How do you host an in-person event when brides are referencing real brides whose weddings they are copying

detail by detail. Worryingly, for an ethical old bird like myself, do many clients care about the design and construction of a garment? Do they question the provenance? Do they seek originality? I have hosted designer days in the distant past that were wildly successful. I used to host something called ‘Launch Week’, a full seven days of back-to-back designer events featuring a different designer every day. Fifty plus dresses sold in a week. Numbers that I have never seen since. I have also hosted designer days that have been excruciating. Poorly attended, with truculent designers and/or pushy agents or wholesale teams. I have grouped together a series of thoughts about designers as a marketing construct because until we define their role, it’s hard to know whether to give them floor, diary or grid space. Are they working hard for us, or are we working hard for them? • Designers are not salespeople; most are much happier in the studio. If they are hands-on creatives, they can be unused to the slightly fearsome sales floor. They can be fragile; vulnerable to criticism and not used to rejection. • Designers promising the earth, not delivering or forgetting details entirely is very common. The creative mind is not always the most disciplined when it comes to dotting the i’s and crossing the t’s. • A ‘designer’ is NOT your marketing plan. As an independent multi brand retailer, you always need to be stronger than any label you stock. • If you give a designer or brand too much power, too much of a percentage share of your business, it is an unbalanced relationship. Weirdly, this rarely works

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in a stockist’s favour and very often you are simply amplifying the designer brand, not your own. • The lustre of a designer’s star quality is their branding not their person. Chanel? Saint Laurent? McQueen? Westwood? Their legacies and their products continue to sell long after their passing and arguably archive pieces become more valuable after their death. We don’t need to have met Coco to covet a quilted handbag. • Designers have lost prestige and gain little traction online because they don’t put themselves at the forefront of even their eponymous labels. With the exception of Kate Halfpenny, I don’t know what any designers think or believe.* The level of blandness of opinion in the bridal realm is a perfect shade of beige. (* I obviously have private conversations with designers, but their personal philosophies are not expressed in their branding.) • Wholesale tactics don’t work on the public. The way that labels, whether individual, designer-led or major multi-brand, sell in their collections to boutiques would horrify a private client. In fact, most of the public would be horrified by the gaslighting, coercion and con-artistry I have witnessed over the years in this respect.

n retails sales, genuine interest and connection with the bride are fundamental. A gifted salesperson/ stylist has a true desire to see a bride in the right dress for her. Our job is not a unit-shifting exercise.

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B2B tactics have no place in a B2C world. Designer Days I continue to run two ‘designer’ events a year. Our Suzanne Neville day has been historically successful, however the sales are tailing off from 25-orders-in-a-day peak pre Covid. I expect, though it has never been expressly defined, that one must sell a certain number of dresses to have Suzanne in person. I understand Suzanne is not just a figurehead, but a grafter whose time is immeasurably valuable. To make the most of Suzanne’s time, and to maximise the value, I work on the following basis: • Weekday designer day – makes sure brides are serious and doesn’t block a Saturday. ♦• Ultra pre-qualified clients – usually revisits that are still paid for. All of the bookings come from our marketing effort, rarely does the traffic come via the brand itself. ♦• No discounts – the margins are too small and too valuable to gift away. A designer day needs to be about adding value not losing money. ♦• Perfect to push a 90% sale over the line, particularly if the bride wants a custom design. Customisation and personalisation are an effective USP. ♦• A chance to define the Neville brand in Miss Bush terms for our demographic. ♦• Content creation – a time to make sure merchandising is perfect and images are banked.

♦• Affiliation and cross marketing – an easy way to amplify your brand message is to work with partners. Currently, the most well-known are The Wedding Present Company and Charlotte Mills shoes. ♦• Enhanced experience – hair, make up and photography. ♦• Gain a strategic advantage over our competitors offering identical products. In the case of Neville this even includes their flagship store. Our other designer event is that for Jesus Peiro – perhaps the simplest and most effective sales promotion comes from our Spanish superstars. It doesn’t hurt that we are the oldest and biggest stockist in the UK: the premise is simple – we offer a time-limited discount on their added-value made-tomeasure or pattern alteration service. The discount is supported by the brand, so they get a double whopper with extra queso worth of orders, and we don’t lose our hard-won margin. And when it comes to Christmas At Bush we lean into the Martha Stewart Happy Holidays vibe. Non-denominational, seasonal and stylish with no allusion to Christianity. Our client demographic is made of many faiths and beliefs so despite our location, the vibe is mid-winter. If you don’t do something, you will look like Ebenezer Scrooge, but one bride’s tinsel is another bride’s tat. All

decorations are neutral and this year we are introducing two new custom seasonal scents for gifting and selling. I can’t even get started on window dressing. Top of my Christmas List is that all bridal shops immediately cease and desist window dressing. If Susi invites me back, I will cover the industry damage committed by seasonal bridal windows. Not just Christmas, any season. Part of the reason why your averagely stylish bride thinks that the local boutique has nothing for her is based on their windows. The sooner everyone gets the ‘studio’ memo with opaque windows and transparency online the better. Learnings When I look at this marketing-speak riddled article that details Miss Bush’s community building, brand defining activities, our ceaseless digital marketing, our measurable email campaigns and constant reassessment of our sales campaigns I know one thing very clearly... Business comes from within. Most brands’ interest in your business will stop after the sample order. The marketing assets will stop after one set of images, and the interest will only pick up if you fall behind on your credit terms. Feedback is generally ignored or defined as moaning ingratitude. Bridal boutiques are the human shield between brides and the trade. Certainly, host events, hold designer days, celebrate any festivity that resonates authentically with your clients. But know, sales come from you...

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HARVEY NICHOLS, BIRMINGHAM

IN CONVERSATION WITH...

CLARE THOMPSON OF THE WEDDING CLUB As Clare opens her new store in Dublin – the fourth in her growing empire – Peta Hunt went visiting to discover what the secret behind the Wedding Club’s success How did you get started in bridal and where was your first store? The Wedding Club started life as a wedding planning company for couples wanting to get married in the US. The company ran from a very small unit in Harborne, Birmingham, which was shared with a photographer. With a love for fashion and style and access to the

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bridal industry, branching out into the fashion side of weddings seemed like the natural progression. Very quickly the space started to fill with designer dresses and then gradually morphed into a luxury wedding dress boutique. We put a lot of time and effort into establishing Birmingham as a network for bridal creatives and a destination for brides from all over the country. We were the only luxury bridal store outside of London, at this stage.

Which designers do you have in which stores? We currently stock 14 different dress designers across all stores: Knightsbridge: Berta, Zuhair Murad, Ines Di Santo, Leah Da Gloria, Vivienne Westwood South Kensington: Kyha Studios, Savannah Miller, Bliss Monique Lhuillier, Jolie, Vera Wang Bride, Rita Colson Birmingham: Berta, Suzanne Neville, Atelier Pronovias, Ines Di Santo, Rosa Clara, Rue De Seine Dublin: Berta, Jolie, Ines Di Santo, Leah Da Gloria Do some designers work better in the Midlands, say, than Knightsbridge? We do find a difference in style and budgets across the regions, which is key to our buying. Our London stores attract a global audience and we find that these brides are very fashion forward and looking for more exclusive and daring styles, whereas the regions tend to play it safer and go for a more modest look. Of all the designers you carry, which label has been the longest serving for you? We have worked with Berta for more than ten years now, having brought them to the UK, and they are still as popular now as they were when we held our very first trunk show with the collection in Birmingham. Their ability to constantly evolve has kept them at the top for longer than all other bridal collections that we have stocked. What makes you determined that your stores stand out from others? Shopping habits have changed so much in the past ten

years and we need to be accommodating of that and be ahead with which products that we offer. The rise of social media has meant that the world has opened up and provided people with a lot more choice. My low boredom threshold also means that I crave new projects and as a result, we rarely sit still. Your starting price seems to be around £2k – any of the gowns off the peg? We offer a selection of store samples for immediate purchase all year round in our sample sale. This allows us to reach a wider audience in terms of budget and also those who are buying last minute. We also hold at least two in-store sale events every year to ensure stock is kept under control. I know that you charge £30 for an appointment – has this helped to weed out time wasters? The appointment fee was first introduced in a bid to prevent no shows, which was crippling to the business, especially on weekends. You would go from having a full day of appointments booked to just a couple of them showing up and not one call to apologise and let you know! Our paid-for appointment system has proved itself from the start. All your stores have a very understated lux vibe, which I think is so important for that VIP feeling; do you have to decorate – or re-vamp – regularly? We are like the Forth Bridge with painting, especially in our Knightsbridge store as it is all white walls and floors! However, it can prove difficult fitting redecoration in when we have such busy store diaries.

KNIGHTSBRIDGE, LONDON

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We have bumped into each other all over the world over the years. We’ve stood in the rain, queued to get into shows, putting long days, late nights and early starts, sat on uncomfortable chairs. I’m looking for inspiration, but you have to invest hard cash into these designers. You are never distracted by industry noise and you are always cheerful. Is it yoga or Champagne? Haha, I love this! Although I do have to focus when on a buying trip, it is also good fun and exciting seeing the new collections and trends coming through. Bumping into you and other like-minded industry colleagues is always a treat for me. Where do you look for creative inspiration? Is it the key bridal markets and the cities themselves – New York, Barcelona and London? Or do films, red carpet and celebrities have a big impact on steering you? We always keep an eye on what the stars are wearing as they have a huge influence on what people buy, especially on the younger generations of brides. The social media-led millennials often mention a celebrity wedding when asked what style they are looking for. What do you look for before you take on a new designer? Or is it one in one out? We look for popularity, quality and a point of difference to the collections that we already stock when looking for new labels. We are very reluctant about letting go of any designer that we invest in, mostly because we have usually built up a very good relationship with their team and it can feel disloyal. It is the toughest part for me. What influences you in your choice of designers, is it their visibility, with a strong online profile, images, and social media presence?

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The popularity of a designer is a key part of our decision making when it comes to which labels we stock. Images are everything in this modern world of social media obsession. However, we also like to champion some lesser-known designers if we love what they are doing. Key to working with a company must be their ability to deliver on time and listen to you? This has made me laugh so much! If you can find a designer who listens to the retailer then please do send them my way! Joking aside, we will part ways fairly quickly with suppliers who consistently miss shipping dates; send faulty gowns; or where the working relationship is not strong. How many exclusive brands do you have? Is exclusivity important? Every designer that we stock is exclusive to us within a certain radius but these distances can vary considerably, which is mostly based on the price range, as the market is relatively small. The higher the price range, the more important it is for us to have a wider area of exclusivity. Are many brides-to-be now looking for more sustainable/ethical fabrics and do they want to know the dress’s journey? The honest answer is not really. However, as a company we are conscious of this and starting to ask those questions of our designers. As many of your dresses have great internal corsets, are you getting more curvy brides now? We have always seen a mix of body shapes come through our doors and we try to accommodate those that require more support with a good selection of structured dresses.

Has the war in Ukraine affected any of your collections? We did have to let go of one Ukranian brand as sadly they were unable to ship orders accurately or on time. It has also affected delivery times for other designers who use Ukranian factories. Did you get the post-Covid rush? And have things now returned back to normal? When we fully re-opened after the pandemic, we were ready to hit the ground running. We knew the demand was high and that we would have shorter lead times on orders as we had remained in touch with our customers throughout. Things have calmed down now and returned to normal in one sense, but we have noticed that the customer expectations today have changed considerably. It’s very exciting that you’re opening in Dublin – congratulations, it’s a fabulous city. How easy has it been to select dresses for there? And do you think Dublin is a very different market to London ? We are super excited about the Dublin showroom; it is a city we love and the Irish brides are a pleasure to work with – they lead the way with trends. We have listened to which styles they want and started with those.

INES DE SANTO

SAVANNAH MILLER

BERTA PRIVEE

BERTA COUTURE

Did it take you a long time to learn to buy with your head and ignore your heart –I know I’d find that very difficult – or is it a bit of a combination? You must have bought some collections that you thought were fabulous. Okay, window dresses... you don’t have to name names... that brides just didn’t understand. We have definitely taken a risk on collections that we adore only to have to then sell off those samples at a much-reduced price in a sale. It breaks my heart every time! We are much stricter with ourselves now, turning our back on some of the most stunning creations.

Are you planning on taking over the world or is this enough for the moment? I am exhausted, so this needs to be it for the time being! We have thrown a lot of plates into the air just recently so I think we need to see how they land and make the next decision from there. It must be very difficult to delegate when you know the product so well, getting the right staff must be paramount. Do you spend a lot of time on staff training? Staff training is mostly on the job and is never ending. The success of our store is mostly down to having good staff who know the product and how to provide excellent customer service. I love accessories and shoes, and so pleased that you are able to stock so many key brands. Are many brides going for veils and head pieces? Or is today’s bride keeping it simple? We offer such a variety of styles with dresses and accessories that we attract both the statement and the simplistic bride. Your team is so good on social media, your daughter has posted before I have even got my phone out! And The Wedding Club are renowned for hosting runway shows; exclusive in-store trunk shows and new collection launches. Is this the way forward for shops? Thank you for noticing – I am very proud of our marketing team and of the events we hold. Social media brings a sense of immediacy and our customers want to try the latest styles straight off the catwalks of New York and Barcelona. A lot of the events we host are a way of offering this, before the collection hits the stores. And we are natural born entertainers and love an excuse for a WT celebration, so this is definitely our way forward! N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 53

HOW

FITTING Laura Daly of Belissima Weddings believes that the perfect result comes from asking the right questions at the start – and having your tape measure at the ready

n a perfect world, every customer’s gown would arrive in store then float up out of its box onto the bride and fit like a glove. Said bride will, of course, have stayed exactly the same shape and size as she was when she ordered it, and

won’t suddenly decide she wants an extension on the train, a hat and a cape to match. However… I don’t find myself living in that world and, being the control freak that I am, I find that offering an in-house alterations service to ensure

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that, whatever the problem, Cinderella WILL go to the ball, is the only way I can sleep peacefully at night! For most of us, the ‘easy bit’ in bridal is the selling of the dress; the part where we can really draw our customer close with a wonderful service and experience. If we muck up at this stage, it’s on us. However, during the fittings stage, ‘situations’ can blossom extremely quickly and the variables are many! Most of the time, problems are not directly our fault, but it’s certainly still on us to mitigate them and, where possible, see them off before they escalate. Here’s my top 20 tips for ensuring that the wonderful service you give in store is replicated during the alterations process. 1. At the time of order, conduct a detailed consultation with the bride to understand her preferences, concerns, and any special requirements.

2. Take precise measurements to determine the correct gown size to order. Ensure that the bride is comfortable throughout the measuring process and provide privacy. 3. Offer professional guidance and suggestions based on the bride’s style and preferences while respecting her choices. 4. Discuss customisation options with the bride, such as neckline changes, sleeve alterations, or adding embellishments. Get any fabric and trim ordered at the same time as the dress to avoid the need to source tulle and beads two days before a wedding! 5. When the dress arrives, set up a clear schedule for alteration appointments and communicate it to the bride. By all means, ensure flexibility to accommodate her

the dress with just the bride, then availability where possible but, invite any guests to come in after if you can only offer certain days you’ve done - fittings run so much or times, be very clear on this from the outset - have it on any quicker like this! paperwork you issue and back it up in your Terms & Conditions. 14. Make it a pleasant and inclusive experience and always ensure 6. Allow sufficient time for alterations that everyone is happy before to be completed before the they leave. wedding date so you don’t give yourself the pressure of cramming 15. Keep the bride informed of the in a number of fittings in short progress of her alterations. Send succession. her reminders of upcoming appointments and provide 7. Manage expectations on timings updates on the status of her gown. - if you know that you’re going to be very busy during a particular 16. Actively listen to any concerns period, the disappearing bride on a or doubts raised about the diet will have to understand that, if alterations. Address these she has lost more inches at a final concerns with professionalism fitting, you may not have time to and kindness. alter the dress again! 17. Be prepared to make adjustments 8. Before touching the garment, be as needed to ensure the gown very clear about what you intend to fits perfectly and the bride feels do to it and how much this is going confident and comfortable, but to cost. Write it down for your bride make sure that you don’t promise and keep a copy - have her sign it the moon and stars if this just as well. It helps to have available isn’t possible with the style of the a price menu of the more popular dress you’re working with. alterations to refer to. 18. Conduct a thorough quality check 9. Be clear when you will require personally to ensure that all payment and how she is to pay; alterations have been completed whether that is after each separate to the highest standard. fitting or on completion of all the work. You need to do this BEFORE 19. Schedule a final fitting session the alterations commence. close to the wedding date to ensure the gown fits flawlessly. 10. Be transparent about any If you can, take a video of the challenges that you foresee completed dress - showing during the process. where the bustle is situated and that any hooks and eyes or 11. During fitting sessions, create poppers are securely attached. a relaxed and welcoming Send it directly to the bride atmosphere. Ensure the bride whilst she is there and then ask feels at ease and is comfortable her to sign off your work. expressing her feedback. 20. Provide the bride with 12. Consider taking progress pictures personalised care instructions of the fittings to refer back to. ensure her gown remains in excellent condition until the 13. Provide seating and mirrors in the wedding day, and make sure fitting area for the bride and her she knows how to store it and entourage, but try to pin and fit transport it safely to the venue. WT

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A Veritable Treasure Trove Without doubt, the right jewellery is the perfect finishing touch to any outfit, and particularly in bridal. Here’s a wholesale company that will let you build your own-name collection

ME is a family-run business that started out in 1975 from modest roots selling beautiful, affordable jewellery from a market stall – unusual and adventurous in the 70s as most precious metal jewellery was sold in traditional jewellers behind glass doors and cabinets. The Queen’s Silver Jubilee in 1977 boosted sales when

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CME did roaring trade with commemorative silver ingots, a success story that resulted in the funding of the company’s first cash and carry wholesale outlet in 1978. As early users of mail order catalogues, CME spread its message to a big and interested audience and its first website was launched back in 2007, replaced more recently by a vibrant new one launched in 2020. “We now work with all sizes of retailer, both online and offline, from large-scale multi-nationals to budding entrepreneurs, at home and internationally and can offer advice and support no matter what level of business a buyer is at,” explains CME’s Debbie Hunt. “We are members of the National Association of Jewellers and the Responsible Jewellery Council, giving customers the confidence to know that all our

products are sourced in the most ethical manner possible.” CME’s aim is to offer customers affordable luxury with the look and quality of branded jewellery, without the high prices and low margins of branded products. “We have over 5,000 products to suit any style, season, or customer for maximum choice. And we supply many specialist shops such as bridal boutiques and have a wide range of products that we feel will appeal to bridal suppliers for the whole bridal party,” says Debbie. What is particularly interesting for

bridal boutiques is the option to brand CME jewellery as their own, allowing them to build a unique collection for their customers and also to create bespoke designs for those with a distinct vision. In terms of bridal, CME believes that jewellery is one of the most truly personal aspects of the bridal ensemble and that when building a range, it is vital to embrace both traditional and non-traditional styles. The low minimum order quantity allows retailers to build collections of the size that suits their business best. And importantly, the competitive

prices will let them focus on their own bottom line and generate a healthy revenue. “We’ve invested heavily in our website, underpinning business systems and carriage options to help us operate at optimal levels,” Debbie explains. “Our website offers a modern and intuitive platform, with easy ordering and retail assets such as full product details, image sharing and blogs offering inspiration and industry insights. “We like to build strong relationships with customers. We aim to recreate the human connection

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online to give our customers a similar experience to them visiting us.” Forthcoming trends Currently, pearls have taken the jewellery market by storm and brides wanting to make a statement can choose from a wide range of design interpretations, whether their taste is for timeless classics or modern twists on tradition. For earrings, there is an uplift in the popularity of statement drop and chandelier earrings. Undeniably glamourous, they offer eye-catching dynamism and interest from every angle. Affordable sparkle in the form of cubic zirconia jewellery is also attracting attention and seems to fall into two camps currently; there is a rise in popularity of the tennisstyle chain, which offers a subtle and sophisticated look, and while the classic tennis style with a single row of same-sized stones is still spot on trend-wise, design innovations offer the shimmer/shine of cubic zirconia

combined with the gleam of pearls, or introduce different colours such as a soft pink and turquoise – the perfect compliment to the minimalist wedding gown. Personalised gifts such as birthstones remain a thoughtful choice for bridesmaids and animal or angel charms for the younger ones. And in the collection are men’s bracelets or chains with feature catches for the laid-back vibe, or the embellished curb chain for those wanting a classic look whilst breaking the mould. Anklets both delicate and bold or ear cuffs add opportunities for daring embellishment. WT For further information about CME and the opportunities available to bridalwear retailers, contact: T: +44 (0)116 283 2240 E: sales@cmejewellery.co.uk W: sales@cmejewellery.co.uk

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VIVA ESPAÑ ESPA ÑA Yolancris is one of the hot names from Spain. The twosome behind it, sisters Yolanda and Cristina, never fail to deliver collections that thrill the bridal world with their innovative approach and design bravado. We talked to Silvia Albanese in Spain and Walter Koller who is now representing the brand in the UK AG AT E A + NEW G E N E R AT I O N

When was the brand launched? Yolancris was formed in 2005 in Barcelona, Spain. One year later it widened its network to cover Italy. Today, it is recognised as an international house, selling across the world. Yolancris is in 50 countries. The 2024 collection – what’s the story – silhouettes, fabrics, colours, special features? The new bridal collection, Attitude 2024, lives up to its name – it is for today’s woman, the confident woman who has her own sense of style. Within the collection there are three different lines – Boho, New Generation and Couture – each designed to appeal to a special personality. There is a mix of silhouettes, fabrics and detailing and styles that range from contemporary twists on the classic princess line to our wonderful free-flowing boho designs. The choice of fabrics is equally exciting, with the newest tulles, laces, and dramatic embroideries. Can styles be modified if requested? Certainly – producing bespoke gowns is part of our signature. Where are your fabrics sourced? We choose and buy from across Europe, and always select the best quality and most innovative designs. What do you see as the key trends for the year ahead? I think the more minimal and modern dresses will be the winners for 2024. Crepe is a top choice and detailing more underplayed. That said, the classic gown will remain first choice for many. Cut-outs are a new feature and atemporal design –

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YO C A S TA PA N TA LO N AND ALMONTE BLUSA + BOHO COLECTION – simple and timeless – is an important trend for brides looking for a second dress for their big day. Have brides changed in what they want today? Without question, today’s brides are much more aware than ever before and look to brands they have confidence in. And increasingly they want more exclusive designs. Has Yolancris dressed many famous people? Absolutely. Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, the Kardashian family are among our audience and we also dress influencers, including Marta Sierra and Virginia Varinelli. Size range? The EU size range is 36 to 52 (UK 8 to 24) And the recommended retail price range in the UK? We are looking at £1,500 to £4,000. 62 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3

C I O C C O L ATO + BOHO COLECTION

What do you feel will be the most popular dress length, neckline, and sleeve shape in the year ahead? Proving to be the most popular style are Boca di Leone and Ciliegio, both to the boho line. They have a real sense of freedom and individuality. Number of pieces in new collection? The Attitude 2024 collection has around 63 dresses. Best way to find out more? Contact Walter Kroller, UK & Ireland Sales walterkoller@yahoo.co.uk Silvia Albanese International Sales Director salbanese@yolancris.com and visit www.yolancris.com

A L I R I O FA L D A + TO P COUTURE COLLECTION ORCHIDEA VESTIDO COUTURE COLECTION N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 63

THE RBA AWARDS 2023 Alison Parish of Aurora Bride reports on the delights of this year’s Awards programme staged in Harrogate during Bridal Week

icture a balmy (okay, boiling hot) September night in Harrogate, chilled Champagne waiting at the door and flowing curtains creating a much needed breeze across the dance floor, making the beautiful blossom trees adorning the tables glitter even more. So romantic... and then we all turned up! It was a night where so much fun was had by all. Bridal alumni mixed with brand new retailers, bridal stylists

hit the floor with raffle tickets waving next to long standing designer royalty. This year’s RBA awards proved that awards don’t need to be a stuffy sit down affair with penguin suits and ballgowns. Sometimes you just need your sequin suit jacket or a special pair of heels with your jeans and a tequila rosé in hand to really enjoy yourself. It’s been a good long while since the RBA awards have taken place in Harrogate during the year’s biggest bridal exhibition, and to be honest it was a little nerve wracking in the

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planning stages not knowing if our event would deliver all we had hoped for. But it did – tenfold. And thanks to our amazing guests it certainly was a cracking – and unforgettable – night. Awards for both Designers and RBA retailers were handed out to loud applause and a fair bit of cheering. And an amazing raffle had its special place with stunning prizes including a brand new designer handbag, Air pods, hampers and Gucci scarves. Every detail of the Awards night added to the brilliant atmosphere,

and when we hit the dance floor, or spent time on the terrace, or captured the moment in the picture booth, there was such a shared sense of enjoyment. One of the unsung aspects of the RBA Awards is the opportunity for professionals in the bridalwear industry to connect, share ideas, and forge collaborations. Boutiques discover new designers, designers meet potential stockists, and owners establish connections with bridal magazines as well as potentially forging lifelong friendships. These connections foster creativity and fuel the bridal industry’s growth, something we all want to see happening... and if you are anything like me the best relationships are cultivated at the bar! Next year, there’ll be new Awards features to celebrate, and importantly, additional categories will be added to the line-up. And wait till you see the raffle prizes we have planned for 2024! We really hope to entice new

retailers and established stores to the RBA Awards and the association in general – everyone is welcome. So much professional knowledge being shared and free flowing is such a positive and powerful tool; not to mention the training behind the scenes from both designers and industry professionals that the RBA provides to all its members. The RBA Awards in Harrogate were not just about celebrating bridal fashion; they were as much about celebrating the lighter side of weddings, too. In a world often filled with stress and perfectionism, the RBA Awards reminded us all that it’s okay to embrace the chaos and laugh at the absurdity of it all. After all, isn’t laughter the best wedding gift of all? Until next year and Harrogate, let’s all keep the laughter flowing, the sequins sparkling, and the Champagne chilling… that’s what bridal is all about. In Arnie’s words: “We’ll be back”!

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AND NOW FOR THE WINNERS... Best Bridal Supplier, under £3k Sponsored by Monreal ESSENSE OF AUSTRALIA

Best Supplier team member Sponsored by Maggie Sottero STEVE TOMKINS, MORILEE

Best Bridal Supplier Newcomer Sponsored by Morilee MILLA NOVA

Best Bridal Supplier, over £3k Sponsored by Madi Lane Group MARTINA LIANA

Best Accessories Supplier Sponsored by Ronald Joyce TWILIGHT DESIGNS

Special Recognition / Chair’s award for RBA team member Sponsored by RBA DELLA BOND, THE DRESSING ROOMS

Best Occasionwear Supplier Sponsored by Essense of Australia VENI INFANTINO

Best Supplier Customer Service Sponsored by Madison James ESSENSE OF AUSTRALIA

Best Bridesmaid/Prom Supplier Sponsored by Allure DESSY

Best Social Media for Supplier Sponsored by Stella York MORILEE

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Best Social Media for RBA Boutique Sponsored by Milla Nova DOTTY BRIDAL Most Inspirational RBA Boutique Sponsored by DAMA WEDDING BELLES OF FOUR OAKS

DESTINATION WEDDINGS With an increasing number of couples investigating the option of getting married away, retailers can impress their brides with their knowledge of popular destinations, as well as their choice of pack-and-go gowns

estination weddings seemed a distant dream during the pandemic, but anxiety around postpandemic travel has finally lifted. That said, although it is easier to travel, staffing issues and strikes have led to airline scheduling disruptions, especially with budget airlines, which means that couples need to put a little more thought into encouraging their guests to arrive a few days before the wedding date if they are using budget airlines to travel. Despite these challenges, we are excited to see that online data from destination wedding sites – including BeyondWeddings.com – suggests that destination weddings are back! The greatest shift we have seen in popularity has been Dubai, partly because they have invested heavily in

attracting UK couples to their sunny shores. Dubai’s Tourism and Economy department hosted a group of wedding planners and influencers for a FAM (familiarisation) trip earlier this year, which really put Dubai on the map for destination weddings. Guides for Brides editor, Alison Hargreaves, who organised the group, commented: “We could all instantly see the appeal, and two of the planners were able to confirm wedding bookings there as soon as they’d seen the venues on offer. It’s a relatively short flight on a reputable and reliable airline, with guaranteed sunshine when you arrive. Their hospitality industry is well supported, so the level of service and quality of food is exceptional. “In Dubai, there is a good choice of different venue styles, in the desert, on the beaches and in the downtown area, where the iconic Armani Hotel was jaw-droppingly impressive. The government is committed to Dubai becoming the world’s leading wedding destination, and it really shows.” This year Dubai has also introduced a 0% tax on alcohol, which is expected to continue and is a popular move with UK couples. The Address Hotel Group has seen such a boost in UK couples choosing Dubai for their destination wedding that they are heading to the November UK Wedding Conference in order to meet

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UK planners interested in introducing their couples to the charms of Dubai for their wedding. There is year-round sunshine there and while the summer months can be too hot for outdoor weddings, for those planning a wedding between November and March, Dubai is hard to beat, with temperatures around 25°C and beautiful blue skies. Closer to home For European destination weddings, France is taking over from Italy in terms of popularity. This captivating country beckons couples; with a diverse landscape of venues to cater to a wide spectrum of tastes and budgets, from picturesque vineyards, alluring beachfront locations, and of course the sheer grandeur of their châteaux. The château settings not only offer a magnificent backdrop but tend to have large reception rooms and space to accommodate guests overnight, enabling a couple to turn their wedding day into an entire weekend of celebrations. Brexit initially posed a few problems in terms of using equipment and suppliers from the UK, but our everresilient wedding planners have found ways to address those challenges and the proximity of France to the UK – with the option of driving there available to planners, suppliers and guests – has only added to its allure as a wedding destination. Italy impresses Italy has always been very popular for weddings, with its warm weather, dramatic landscapes, impressive wedding venues and popular cuisine. UK couples should be aware that September is a particularly popular wedding month for Italian couples, so demand for venues is particularly high then, and also that a lot of venues shut for the winter between October and March, especially in coastal areas. Couples heading to Italy have a myriad of options to choose from, with Lake Como, Venice, the Amalfi Coast and the rolling vineyards of Tuscany being consistently popular. Numerous celebrities have chosen to tie the knot in Italy, leading to its reputation for high prices. But if you head away from the beaten track with the help of a knowledgeable wedding planner, there are plenty of affordable hidden gems to uncover. Gorgeous Greece With its warm weather, beautiful cities and stunning ocean stretches, there is no surprise that Greece has always been a popular destination for UK couples to get married. There are a number of luxury venues in stunning locations, from the whitewashed charm of Santorini to the lush greenery of Crete. However, amongst UK couples, Greece is a particularly popular choice for budget weddings, with a relaxed beach vibe that you just can’t replicate in the UK. Although there are travel and accommodation costs to consider, prices for the actual wedding are very low

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to reflect the simplicity of the arrangements. Weddings in Greece often require minimal setup, with ceremonies being held on the beach and receptions held in a beachside taverna. Getting sorted With the exception of Greece, where the weddings tend to be particularly laid back, it is a very good idea to use a destination wedding planner to assist with the arrangements. They’ll be able to sort the red tape, advise on local customs, source and liaise with suppliers, arrange accommodation and flights for guests if needed, and most importantly they will have the local contacts to smooth out any issues that occur on the wedding day. Choose from a UK based planner with knowledge and experience of the area you are aiming for, or a locally based planner with knowledge and experience of working with UK couples. For large and complex weddings it is not uncommon for a UK based planner to team up with a local planner, to give you the best of both options. So, will the popularity of destination weddings continue to rise? Images of idyllic beach weddings and impressive château receptions shared on Instagram will continue to inspire couples looking for something a bit different. However, outdoor weddings are now permitted in England and Wales, so UK venues are fighting back. Only time will tell if destination weddings will return to pre-pandemic levels, but as we head into another British winter, we can all understand the appeal! BeyondWeddings.com helps couples and planners find the best overseas wedding venues, and specialises in luxury destination weddings. It forms part of the Guides for Brides group of online wedding planning resources.

EROSANTORINI

FROM A PLANNER’S VIEW... Jill Eckersley, following up from her previous feature for us a while back, talked to one planner for her perspective on how the market, and couples’ wants are looking today

ooking back three or four years, the wedding industry was in a very different place, especially where destination weddings were concerned. In this country, the Church of England announced that weddings would have to be restricted to just five people – the bride and groom, the Vicar and just two witnesses. Those thinking of marrying abroad had to consider the ever-changing ‘lockdown’ situation in different parts of the world. Uncertainty about the future meant that planning months or years ahead became a virtual impossibility. When Wedding Trader spoke to wedding planners back then, the general consensus was that it would take until at least 2023 for destination weddings, especially, to recover from pandemic restrictions and for confidence to return. “After all, people are always going to want to get

married, and to make their day special,” I remember one said. Since those days, we have learned to live with coronavirus… but then along came the cost-of-living crisis. Has the wedding industry managed to survive one blow, only to be impacted by another? To find out whether destination weddings remain the first choice for many couples, we have been asking the experts… Among those experts is graphic-designer-turnedwedding- planner Tichea Brade of Carmela Weddings. She took over the company in 2019 and is based in Welwyn Garden City, though many of her clients are in London. Tichea offers couples a range of packages, including full-service planning, day-of co-ordination, and honeymoon co-ordination, in a wide range of countries both in Europe and worldwide. Our first question to Tichea was whether destination weddings are as popular as ever, given the cost-ofliving crisis? “The answer is a resounding yes!” she says. “Despite economic challenges, destination weddings are a sought-after choice for couples in the UK. The allure of tying the knot in breathtaking locales, creating unforgettable memories, and enjoying an intimate celebration with close family and friends continues to be irresistible. “Post-pandemic, we have seen a shift in couples’ wedding budgets, however. While some might be slightly more conservative, others opt for more extravagant experiences to make their destination wedding truly unforgettable. It isn’t so much about the budget size, as about how couples allocate their funds to create the wedding of their dreams.” Tichea predicts that Tuscany, Portugal and Malta will be among the most popular destinations for the coming year. “Tuscany remains an enduring favourite in 2024,” she points out. “It’s a timeless and romantic destination that continues to capture British hearts. Rolling vineyards, historic villas and picturesque countryside create a dreamlike wedding setting. Its worldrenowned cuisine and wines add a culinary dimension to the experience. Whether you are exchanging vows under the Tuscan sun, dining al fresco among olive groves, or dancing under the stars, Tuscany offers an enchanting backdrop to any celebration. Wedding venues can include historic castles, luxury villas and charming farmhouses, combining history, culture and natural beauty.” Portugal is a rising star for destination weddings. “The country offers diverse settings from charming vineyards in the Douro Valley to romantic palaces in Sintra and stunning beaches in the Algarve,” says Tichea. “Portugal’s affordability compared to some other European destinations, along with its warm hospitality

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ARMANI HOTEL WEDDINGS BY EMAAR

and great cuisine, makes it an attractive choice.” Malta, with its captivating history, stunning architecture and Mediterranean charm, is now emerging as a delightful choice for British couples. They may opt for a historic venue in Valetta, a beachfront celebration in Gozo, or a rustic countryside affair, Malta offers a variety of settings. Warm hospitality, an English-speaking population, and accessibility from the UK make it an attractive prospect for both couples and their guests. While it might seem that jetting a couple and their wedding guests abroad to celebrate is an extravagance in these more straitened times, that need not necessarily be the case, Tichea points out. “One question that often arises is whether a destination wedding can offer better value than a more traditional wedding at home,” she says. “The answer depends on several factors, including location, guest count, and personal preferences. “While destination weddings might have higher upfront costs, they often include a more intimate guest list and a built-in honeymoon, making them a costeffective choice for some couples. The number of guests at a destination wedding varies significantly from one couple to another. Some opt for an intimate affair with close family and friends only, while others will invite a larger group. The key in planning is to create a guest list that reflects the couple’s vision and budget.” Similarly, the style of any destination wedding can vary between glitz and glamour and something much more low-key, depending on the couple’s individual preferences. However, while some couples still go for

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lavish ceremonies and opulent receptions, an increasing number are leaning towards more low-key and intimate celebrations, reflecting a desire for authenticity and a focus on meaningful moments shared with loved ones.” Tichea certainly feels that in 2024 destination weddings will continue to offer British couples the opportunity to celebrate their love in extraordinary settings, whether in a Mediterranean paradise or an Italian villa. “Couples are redefining their budgets and preferences post-pandemic, making destination weddings more diverse and customisable,” she says. “Whether they go for grandeur or simplicity, 2024 destination weddings promise unforgettable experiences that will be cherished for a lifetime.” Many of the best-known travel companies also offer wedding packages for those who want a destination wedding. Making all the arrangements for that special day can be a daunting prospect for many couples, even in this country, without having to factor in the complications of transporting your guests halfway across the world – and not to mention dealing with the rules and regulations around weddings in an unfamiliar country! Travel companies with specialised wedding divisions can take all the legwork out of the preparations so that all the bride and groom have to do is decide the country, the venue and the style of their own particular dream day. Specialist companies include Beyond Weddings, mentioned earlier, which is part of the guidesforbrides. com platform. West Midlands-based Perfect Weddings Abroad is another and has been arranging couples’

HÔTEL PARTICULIER MONTMARTRE

dream weddings in different parts of the world for 18 years. We spoke to their General Manager, Melissa Lowe-Woolley, who told us that 2022 was actually one of the company’s busiest-ever years as the pandemic restrictions were being lifted and weddings postponed from 2020 and 2021 had to be re-arranged. “At the tail end of the pandemic restrictions, the floodgates just opened and bookings went crazy,” she says. “Couples were really keen to get their plans back on track. There are so many reasons why people choose to marry abroad, including the weather! That is always a big consideration for British couples as the summer weather in this country is so unpredictable. “Another factor is the cost. It can often be cheaper to marry abroad than it is in this country as with our ‘wedding packages’ everything is included from the ceremony and the venue, to hair and make-up, photography and catering. “Any add-ons the couples might want, including entertainment, lighting, special decor or fireworks, we can arrange for them. We guarantee a price and they know there will be no hidden extras. We are now

booking up to 2026 and have a payment plan with a modest deposit and reasonable monthly payments so that couples can spread the cost of their celebration over two years. This has meant the cost-of-living crisis hasn’t made as much impact as it might have done. We are also independent travel agents so we can shop around for the best prices for travel for the wedding party. Melissa says that the most popular destination for their clients is currently Cyprus - an island which is very wedding-focused and has been for some time! “English is widely spoken so you don’t have to translate your documents,” she says. “That makes marrying a simple process. It’s only a four-hour flight from the UK and has some beautiful venues. Greece and Italy are also very popular. I would say that destination weddings tend to be smaller than those ‘at home’ with about 30 guests on average – although recently we have been booking some for 80 or 100. Our packages start from 20 people so we offer plenty of choice. Some go for extravagance, others for a wedding that is more relaxed WT and laid-back. We have something for everyone.”

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MAKING A DIFFERENCE Maggie Sottero’s Cirenas Volunteering Group

STOP. LOOK. LISTEN. LEARN.

MAGGIE SOTTERO AND SUSTAINABILITY Maggie Sottero stands for LOVE and love for ALL – including Mother Earth. We invited the market-leading brand to talk about their strategy to help build a better planet. Here’s their response:

“W

e are committed to creating a more sustainable future for the next generation and beyond. We’re on a mission to learn best practices, reduce our environmental impact, and restore vital ecosystems, from Maggie’s beloved birthplace, Australia, to the Great Salt Lake Region we call home. We’re reimagining everything we do with a regenerative, future-facing view. The Maggie family is committed to being the change, disrupting the standard, and creating the future to ensure

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our brides’ love stories—and our planet— endure. “We’re implementing systems change throughout our organization, embedding sustainability as a core value for every team supporting a more sustainable wedding industry. We are working as quickly as possible to reduce our environmental impact, taking ambitious action in three key areas: Waste Reduction, Resource Consumption, and Protecting Biodiversity.” • Maggie Sottero is recycling everything possible, as

efficiently as we can, from bulk shipping waste to diverting stock from landfills. We are working towards ZERO waste. • 2000lbs and counting of plastic shipping waste recycled through our partnership with Rocky Mountain Recycling. • 100% of excess stock is diverted from landfills into textile recycling programmes and donation efforts. • 700+ gowns donated to community organizations and design school students in the US and the UK, including OTIS College of Art & Design and Liverpool School of Art and Design. • Donated 300+ discontinued gowns to Brides Across America, a community organization providing free dresses to qualified military, first responders, and healthcare workers. • Supporting textile waste reduction efforts, we’ve provided gowns and materials to fashion students at Otis College of Art & Design, Liverpool School of Art and Design, Rare School of Fashion, Salt Lake Community College, and Brigham Young University for study and upcycling projects. • Eliminating single-use plastics in our offices and at market events, replacing them with reusable dishware and utensils. • Recycling as much as we can, as efficiently as we can, at our Scope 1 facilities to further reduce our municipal waste landfill impact. • We are dedicated to electronic waste reduction, Maggie has a long-standing practice of recycling used printer toners and donating decommissioned equipment to e-waste programmes.

RENEWING THE GOOD Planting trees that will lead to a better future

ON THE COAST Collecting rubbish on the beach in Costa Rica

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MAGGIE SOTTERO Emmanuel, made with yarn-dyed polyester outer shell

• 70% reduction in printed material waste at markets. “Maggie Sottero supports renewable power projects, reducing our product impact and investing in the circular supply chain. We are working to become a regenerative brand.” • Maggie is a Visionary Business Partner with Rocky Mountain Power, reducing our carbon footprint by an estimated 154,000lbs of CO2/year. • We are investing in the circular textile supply chain, sending 2,630lbs (and counting) of excess gown stock to be sorted, recycled, and turned into new fibers and products. • We support 100% zero-carbon energy in our UK facility. • Website and databases are hosted using cloud services that use sustainable practices to power the infrastructure and computing needs. We are also replacing our in-house servers with newer, more energy-efficient equipment featuring a smaller power footprint and less cooling needs. • Shifting to energy-efficient LED lighting throughout our US office.

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REBECCA INGRAM Addison, made with recycled polyester outer shell

• Hybrid/Virtual work environment based on role. • Providing discounted monthly transit passes to staff at our US headquarters. • Reducing resource consumption by switching to water-saving sprinkler systems and drought-tolerant landscaping at our Salt Lake City headquarters. • Optimizing collections brought to market and minimizing product SKUs to create a ‘reduction’ cascade effect in the supply chain. • Transitioning to post-consumer recycled content shipping boxes in all our warehouses, and we’re testing gown packaging made from recycled and recyclable materials. • Transitioning to recycled-content printer paper in our offices and at bridal markets. • Started printing our production swing tags with vegetable-based ink on recycled cardstock. • Digitally optimizing B2B operations, reducing paper resource consumption by 50%. “Maggie Sottero supports efforts to back healthy ecosystems globally and near our Scope 1 facilities,

SOTTERO AND MIDGLEY Jasper, made with recycled polyester lining

from our partnership with One Tree Planted to our volunteer work with regional conservation groups like International Bird Rescue.” • In partnership with One Tree Planted, we’re planting a tree in honour of every Maggie bride, with pergown donations directed to regional projects around the world. Our first project is ‘Ridge to Reef’ in Costa Rica, protecting biodiversity and creating elevational corridors to help species adapt to future climates. • We offer paid time for staff to volunteer in communities and habitats near our Scope 1 facilities. • In the US, we are partnering with International Bird Rescue as a corporate pilot sponsor for their new Conservation Action Programme. Our volunteers successfully cleaned up over 240lbs of litter to protect the biodiversity of the Great Salt Lake. • In the UK, our team is helping to conserve wildlife habitat with clean-up projects at Eastham Country Park near our Birkenhead office. • Offsetting our business flights with Cool Effect. In 2023, we are supporting ‘The Dirt on Dirt’: This project focuses on converting US farmland to sustainable agriculture practices such as adding cover crops and implementing no-till, which removes and stores carbon in one of our largest carbon sinks, our land. • Reimagining our photoshoots to focus on protecting biodiversity, highlighting vital ecosystems, donating photography assets, and volunteering with local groups like CIRENAS Turtle Refuge in Costa Rica. Our Spring 2024 photoshoot team partnered with CIRENAS to plant White Almond Trees to support the regeneration of biological corridors and WT beach ecosystems.”

CHIRPY The international bird rescue volunteering group

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BRIDESPEAK

Destination weddings are on the increase for a whole variety of reasons since we looked at them midyear, and a growing topic of conversation. We asked six brides in the planning stages if they are choosing to head to sunnier climes and why I have long dreamed of a truly romantic wedding and I guess a location that offers something different and incredible settings really hits the mark. My other half, Charlie, is less interested and laughs at my ever-growing stacks of travel articles, printed off the internet, which means that I can actually choose what I want. Also, this is my second time around and I want something very intimate rather than a repeat Peter Grimes of the of bigAmerican bash last time. That’s what Charlie and I will have. I am looking at Greece right now, and Publisher trade magazineSantorini, VOWS and finding out the details of legalities and planning. Our only guests will be our especially two best friends, Chris and Maria, and my cousin Catherine. Sharlene

I’m not a bride-to-be – I’m a bride that has just done it! We were in the planning stages in the early spring and told you that we’d be tying the knot at my family’s house in Spain. Well, everything went to plan, and did so beautifully, although quite a few of our friends who had accepted invites changed their mind because of the increased costs they were facing with the cost of living crisis and mortgage changes. It was sad they weren’t there but we had to be understanding about their situation. We were lucky having the location at no cost and the local caterers did a great job with a really relaxed menu and mainly barbequed dishes. That was also so much cheaper than anything we could have planned in the UK. The only thing that disappointed me was the cake – I would have loved a good old-fashioned fruit cake with all the trimmings, but we ended up with something like a sponge with a bit of icing. Still, that couldn’t mar the pleasure of the whole thing. Most special to me was that I had some quality time with both our sets of parents that we’d never have had back home with everyone working. Martine

We live and work in London, but are both French. We decided to get married in the Algarve, which we visit regularly and love. We found a planner there who is French and can conduct formal services in French, and we liked his laid-back attitude and also his suggestions of venues for the post-formalities party. I found that a great bridalwear retailer, London Bride Couture, has a branch in the town of Tavira. I visited her store in London, said yes to the dress on the first visit, and she has made that whole shopping experience problem free. We have friends and family from France who will join us for the wedding and we’ll be honeymooning up the west coast so we can get some sightseeing and surfing on the agenda. I have to say, we know the Algarve well, but finding the right local planner has made all the difference. I think local is the operative word. Chloe

“Me? Us? No way! I want to be surrounded by everything familiar – people and places, even foods and drinks. That might sound very unadventurous, but I want to go the unadventurous traditional route.” Sheila

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“For us it is a cost and organisation consideration as much as anything else. We visited a number of venues near to us, a couple of which were recommended by the boutique where I bought my dress. They were all lovely and it was obvious that the service they offered would be great. But quite frankly, the cost was way more than we could comfortably afford, and the option of cutting down on things like the menu choices, type of music, etc really was a spoiler. We started looking at what was available abroad and have decided on a small beach wedding somewhere not too far away, with just immediate family and a few friends, all of whom have said they would be paying for themselves. That way, we can have a decentsized completely informal party at home afterwards without budget constraints. Right now, Italy is on our bucket list, and also Portugal.” Sandrine

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Take a tablet Designers, stylists and illustrators need to capture inspiration and ideas on the fly, often in the midst of a bustling fashion show. Chris Partridge says tablets are the greatest aid

n the frenetic world of fashion, the creative process is all about transforming ideas into production as fast as possible. Traditionally, sketching clothes on paper has been the norm, but as technology evolves, many industry professionals are turning to tablets to create computer-friendly images directly on screen. One of the most significant advantages of using a tablet for fashion sketching is the lack of faff. Traditional sketching involves bulky sketchbooks, a bagful of assorted

pens, pencils and markers, erasers and assorted drawing materials. Test setting all this stuff up takes forever and a lot of space. In contrast, a tablet uses no extra space and can be ready for action seconds after pressing the power button. Fashion designers and retailers alike can easily slip a tablet into their bags, allowing them to sketch whenever and wherever inspiration strikes. This is invaluable during fashion shows, where capturing the essence of a collection or a unique runway moment is critical.

Left: Samsung’s new Galaxy Tab S9 series.Above: the Tab Ultra

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All you need Tablets come equipped with a wide range of digital drawing tools, from styluses to touch-sensitive screens, that mimic the feeling of traditional sketching. These tools allow for precision and control, enabling artists to bring their designs to life with fine details and intricate patterns. Moreover, digital sketching offers the freedom to experiment with various colours and textures instantly. Efficiency is the name of the game in the fashion industry. Fashion designers often work on tight schedules with strict deadlines. Using a tablet for sketching not only results in a more organised workflow but also speeds up the design process. Sketches can be easily edited, duplicated, and shared, often directly from the floor of a show to colleagues back in the office via wifi and the internet, allowing for quick feedback and collaboration with team members. Other benefits There are environmental benefits, too. By reducing the need for paper, physical sketchbooks and single-use throwaway marker pens filled with polluting inks, you can contribute to a more sustainable industry. Additionally, tablets promote a paperless workflow, which aligns with the growing trend

of digital fashion presentations and e-commerce. Fashion shows are often a hub for creativity and networking. Tablets enable retailers and designers to share their sketches in real time with colleagues, models, or potential clients. This instant sharing of ideas and concepts can lead to valuable collaborations and partnerships. With a tablet, you can turn a runway sketch into a digital presentation and share it with the world within minutes of the show’s conclusion, generating buzz and interest in the collection you have discovered. Tablets provide the benefit of creating a digital archive of sketches, which can be accessed and reused at any time. This makes it easier to revisit past ideas and incorporate them into new designs. It also simplifies the process of cataloguing and organising sketches, eliminating the need for physical storage space.

What’s new? The latest tablets offer considerable advantages over traditional graphics tablets, mainly in eliminating the need to be connected to a laptop. There is now a tablet for every taste. At the top end, there are some massive tablets now on the market sporting screens as large as an A4 sketchpad – enough space to really let go. On the downside, however, they are bulky, heavy and expensive. The top dog in the mega-tablet market is Samsung with the new Galaxy Tab S9 Ultra. It is not cheap (prices start at £1,200) but it comes with the brilliant S-pen in the box. Samsung also offers an optional Notepaper screen that lies over the tablet’s screen to provide a more tactile ‘pen and paper’ feel when sketching. There is also an artist’s edition of the s-pen with greater sensitivity to pressure and tilt that professionals find useful. Lenovo has just entered the arena with its Tab Extreme, which

also comes with a stylus but at a considerably more affordable price of £900. If an A4 size tablet is just too big to haul around a show, both Samsung and Apple offer tablets with 12in screens. Below them is the standard 10in variety but many users are going for even smaller, opting for 8in tablets such as the iPad Mini. However, many of these do not support a stylus – the big plus with the iPad Mini is compatibility with the Apple Pencil. A slightly left-field option is to go with Samsung’s new Galaxy S23 Ultra smartphone, which has its own S-pen. The 6.8in screen is small but adequate for sketching, and has everything you need including the phone, a brilliant camera capable of taking high resolution videos and stills, all weighing bag-friendly 233 grams. Of course, this comes at a rather eye-watering price of £1,250 (for starters) but if the alternative is to pack both a phone and a tablet you WT may be actually saving money.

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2024

SHOW DATES

TIME TO PLAN YOUR SCHEDULE For regularly updated details of the brands you can expect to see, and the special show features planned, check the websites weekly. And do contact event organisers to see if there are any travel and accommodation deals

FEBRUARY HARROGATE FASHION WEEK 4-6 February Harrogate Convention Centre Number of exhibitors expected: 180-200 Year show first launched: 2018 Harrogate Fashion Week www. harrogatefashionweek.com

MARCH NATIONAL BRIDAL MARKET CHICAGO 17-19 March 2024 The Merchandise Mart Chicago Number of exhibitors expected: 185 Year show first launched: 1975 National Bridal Market Chicago www. nationalbridalmarket.com

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ROME BRIDAL WEEK 23-25 March 2024 Fiera Roma, Roma, Italy Number of exhibitors expected: 250+ collections Year show first launched: 2018 Rome Bridal Week www. romebridalweek.it/en/

BRIDAL WEEK HARROGATE 24–26 March 2024 Harrogate Convention Centre Number of exhibitors expected: 200 brands Year show first launched: March 1983 Bridal Week Harrogate www. bridalweek.com

APRIL ONE FINE DAY BRIDAL MARKET 3-4 April 2024, during New York Bridal Fashion Week Canoe Studios, New York Number of exhibitors expected: 25-30 Year show first launched: 2015 One Fine Day Bridal Market www. onefinedaybridalmarket.com

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EUROPEAN BRIDAL WEEK 13–15 April 2024 Messe Essen, Essen, Germany Number of exhibitors expected: 500 brands Year show first launched: 2014 European Bridal Week www.europeanbridalweek.com

BARCELONA BRIDAL FASHION WEEK 17–21 April 2024 Fira Barcelona This is the big one, with event after event over five full-on days. 17 April: Barcelona Bridle Night: A catwalk celebration that kicks off the year’s most talked-about bridal happening. 17-20 April: The fashion shows: Four days and one night that will have the bridal world talking. There will be more than 30 international and Spanish design houses strutting their stuff to amazingly staged backdrops, including Carlo Pignatelli, Cymbeline, Demetrios, Isabel Sanchis, Jesus Peiro, Julia Kontogrun, Marco & Maria, Sophie et Voila, Yolan Cris 19-21 April: The trade show, close to 400 bands, in bridal, groomswear, cocktail, communion and accessories BBFW www.barcelonabridalweek.com

MAY WHITE GALLERY 8–9 May 2024 The Truman Brewery, London Number of exhibitors expected: 70 brands Year show first launched: May 2010 White Gallery www. bridalweek.com/whitegallery

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JUNE ROME FASHION WEEK 8-10 June 2024 Fiera Roma, Rome, Italy Number of exhibitors expected: 250+ collections Year show first launched: 2018 Rome Fashion Week www.romefashionweek.it

AUGUST HARROGATE FASHION WEEK

NATIONAL BRIDAL MARKET

4-6 August 2024 Harrogate Convention Centre

25-27 August The Merchandise Mart Chicago

Number of exhibitors expected: 180-200 Year show first launched: 2018

Number of exhibitors expected: 185 Year show first launched: 1975

Harrogate Fashion Week www. harrogatefashionweek.com

National Bridal Market Chicago www.nationalbridalmarket.com

SEPTEMBER

OCTOBER

BRIDAL WEEK HARROGATE

WHITE WEDDING PLATFORM

8–10 September 2024 Harrogate Convention Centre

6-7 October 2024 In the 2023 edition, 24 internationally-known brands from the Ukraine presented their new collections in Milan’s stunning Villa Borromeo. Five speakers gave master classes and outlined trends in the wedding industry and a charity workshop was hosted by photographer Diana Vartanova, the money from which will be used to support Ukraine during the war. For the 2024 event, visit www.platform.com

Number of exhibitors expected: 300 brands Year show first launched: March 1983 Bridal Week Harrogate www.bridalweek.com

ONE FINE DAY BRIDAL MARKET 8–10 October 2024 Canoe Studios, New York Number of exhibitors expected: 40-50 Year show first launched: 2015 One Fine Day Bridal Market www.onefinedaybridalmarket.com

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WEDDING TRADER GOES LEGAL PART

We bring you information of new legalities that could affect your business. Advice from the experts really matters...

Contracts

This month, Stephen Sidkin, partner, and Jess Howard, associate of Fox Williams LLP, explain the importance of getting it right when terminating an agency, distribution, or supply agreement

party seeking to terminate a contract for serious breach can commonly make one or more mistakes, including: misinterpreting a termination clause – incorrectly attempting to rely on the repudiatory – that is serious – breach of the other party – simply not following the correct termination procedure set out in the contract. Sometimes, this is because there is often confusion between the two main grounds for terminating a contract – contractual termination and termination at common law. Contracts typically confer rights of termination, which specify the circumstances in which one or both parties can terminate the contract. For example, if one party commits a material breach, fails to meet certain contractual milestones, or becomes insolvent. However, under common law, contracts can also be terminated if a serious breach occurs. A serious breach is a significant violation of a contract that demonstrates a party’s clear intention to not be bound by the terms of the contract. It is important for the parties under contract to get termination notices right. Failure to terminate correctly can mean losing the right to terminate altogether, or even giving the party in

agreement. Topalsson rejected the termination notice, arguing that the milestones had never been agreed, and affirmed the contract (in other words, treated the contract as continuing). RRMC then sent a second termination notice on the basis that the agreed revised milestones had not been met or, alternatively, that Topalsson’s delay amounted to a serious breach of the agreement. Serious breach case Unsurprisingly, Topalsson again examples compared claimed that the second termination Topalsson GmbH v Rolls-Royce Motor notice was invalid. However, this time, Cars Ltd A few weeks ago, judgment Topalsson elected to accept the was given in a case involving alleged serious breach, and initiated Rolls-Royce Motor Cars (RRMC), proceedings against RRMC for which serves as a reminder of the wrongful termination. principles underpinning termination The Court decided that the first under English law and the significant termination notice sent by RRMC consequences of serving defective relied on erroneous grounds, as termination notices. the agreement did not contain RRMC entered into a supply agreement with Topalsson, a German contractually binding milestones. However, with its second termination software company, to supply digital notice, RRMC had validly terminated visualisation software for its new the agreement as the milestones in model. The agreement included a the revised plan were contractually general timeline for meeting certain binding. milestones and deliverables. A By choosing to affirm the contract in revised, more detailed implementation response to RRMC’s first termination plan was later agreed between the notice, Topalsson had waived RRMC’s parties. breach of invalidly terminating the Subsequently, RRMC issued a contract. Therefore, RRMC had termination notice on the basis that managed to evade committing a Topalsson had failed to achieve the serious breach itself. original milestones set out in the breach the right to terminate and claim damages for wrongful termination! And in the case of the termination of an agency agreement, a claim for compensation or indemnity under the Commercial Agents Regulations or the EU Agents Directive. The mistakes and problems that can occur were illustrated in a recent High Court judgment.

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Alan Ramsay Sales & Marketing Ltd v Typhoo Tea Ltd A few years ago, there was another case concerning termination notices and waivers. The case concerned an agency agreement between Typhoo Tea, and its former agent, Alan Ramsay. The agency agreement included a 12-month notice period. However, Typhoo Tea sent two withoutprejudice emails to Alan Ramsay purporting to terminate the agreement by giving three months’ notice. Alan Ramsay replied by open email accepting Typhoo Tea’s serious breach (of giving notice significantly less than the agreement stipulated) and confirmed that it would treat the agreement as terminated at the end of the three-month notice period. The Court decided that, given that Typhoo Tea’s emails were without prejudice, Alan Ramsay had not been allowed to treat them as serious. As a result, in relying on Typhoo Tea’s alleged serious breach, Alan Ramsay’s was itself in serious breach! In turn, this gave rise to the question of whether Typhoo Tea had accepted Alan Ramsay’s serious breach, thereby bringing the agreement to an end. As was the position with Topalsson’s response to RRMC’s first termination notice, the Court decided

that Typhoo Tea had also waived Alan Ramsay’s breach, given that it had not done anything to signify that it was accepting the breach so bringing the agreement to an end. Consequently, Typhoo Tea lost its right to terminate the agreement and Alan Ramsay was awarded compensation under the Commercial Agents Regulations. What to consider on termination? – It is important to consider the consequences of termination and whether terminating the contract is the most appropriate route for you at that time. For example, consider whether the other party is able to remedy the breach under the terms of the contract, and if so, be alive to any relevant deadlines. – If you decide to terminate the contract, it is essential that you exercise the termination rights correctly in accordance with any relevant termination clauses in the contract: • In what circumstances are you allowed to terminate? • How much notice must you give? • What procedure must you follow? • To whom should notice of termination be addressed? – What is the correct method of

service? – Ensure you communicate your clear intention to terminate the contract through a written notice to the other party, setting out the detailed grounds for termination. – If the other party has committed a serious breach, make sure to act quickly in deciding whether you want to terminate the contract or not: • If you terminate the contract by accepting the serious breach, you may be entitled to seek damages for breach of contract; • If you know about the breach and treat the contract as continuing, you will be at risk of affirming the contract (and will consequently lose the right to terminate and claim damages); • But if you terminate a contract incorrectly for serious breach, you could inadvertently commit serious breach and be liable for damages; • Whether or not a breach amounts to a serious breach will vary on a case-by-case basis. www.agentlaw.co.uk; www.distributorlaw.co.uk; www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

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e invite you to join us in person for our annual Fashion Law seminar on Wednesday 29 November which will be held in-person at our offices at 10 Finsbury Square. The topics we will cover include: 1. Tenancy agreements – why it is important that you properly perform yours and how to do so Real Estate senior associate Tom Morton will look at: - keep open clauses, yielding up provisions, repair and so forth – the practical problems for fashion tenants sleepwalking into leases - actions that landlords can take - why certain actions may not result in performance. 2. The future of fashion – how will sustainability laws impact your business? Commerce and technology associate Hannah McCullagh will discuss: - sustainability legislation in the pipeline – what will be required of you (and those who operate in your supply chain) and what you should do to prepare for it - the issue of greenwashing 3. It’s not simply about registering a trade mark - protecting your intellectual property

Intellectual property senior associate Scott Steinberg will outline potential ways that fashion businesses can and should protect intellectual property – their most valuable asset! 4. Five things we are seeing in the market for fashion businesses. Corporate senior associate Sarah Carlton will cover: - why banks are reviewing private company board appointments - future fund/CBILS could still be problematic if insolvency looms - preparation is key if a shareholder fallout is likely - are M&A transactions taking longer to get over the line? - clean up your skeletons before starting an M&A transaction.

After the formal presentations, there will be an opportunity to ask questions of the speakers and then to network over drinks and canapés. We do hope you can join us. Date: Wednesday 29 November Location: 10 Finsbury Square, London EC2A 1AF Registration: 6.00pm Session: 6.30-7.30pm Networking and drinks: 7.30pm onwards To register, contact Steve Sidkind 44 (0)7788 148537 / sisidkin@foxwilliams.com

The seminar will be chaired by Steve Sidkin, partner and chair of Fashion Law Group at Fox Williams.

Wedding Trader is working closely with Fox Williams under whose care fashion businesses flourish with everything from securing intellectual property rights to renegotiating agency agreements and commercial leases. (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

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“This year I did the rounds. London, Harrogate, Rome, Essen, Barcelona and yes, New York. And I am very tired as a result and, I have to say, quite confused seeing so much – and so much again and again. I have pledged myself to staying within the UK in 2024 and perhaps just one show abroad as a treat – and an opportunity to eat well and do some family shopping!”

“I am finding an increasing number of appointment no-shows for the first time ever and feel it is time I put an appointment charge in place and stick to it (I have always avoided this). I’d be interested to know how others are coping with this unpleasant trend.” “In the past few months I have been getting more and more enquiries about gowns for destination weddings, and interestingly many of those brides want to purchase immediately so I am guessing the casual getting-married-on-hols thing is about to hit the scene. For that reason, I am considering a separate area in my store for those buyon-the-spot choices – not sale dresses, I might add. Can anyone pass on the benefit of their experience with this please, as it will be quite an investment buying across the sizes.”

MAGGIE SOTTERO

“Much as I adore Harrogate – and so happy to be planning to be there twice next year – I did feel in the September show that a number of brands showing were a teense desperate and instead of trying to plan the best ways to work with retailers were simply pushing to get whatever they could in terms of sales, and for that reason their loyalty level seems to have diminished. One brand, that I have been buying from for years, actually said if someone near me – ie a competitor – was ready to commit to a “decent level of minimums” (I quote), they would go with them. Well, I guess you know who is to be trusted.”

And finally Ups and downs, ins and outs, but so much to look forward to

“I would like to thank the team at Wedding Trader for always delivering straight talk, especially from retailers, which gives an honest assessment of how the market is, and how the future looks. I’m not interested in seeing pages and pages ofpretty images – I get those from my own suppliers – it’s the opinions that make the difference and get you thinking.”

Got a view you want to share with like-minded others? Want suggestions from industry colleagues? Email me – susi@rogol-goodkind.com – and we’ll get the conversation going. We are for retailers, and about retailers. N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 87

To put the the power of Propress steam into with your your Bride’Bride’ s hands, Share power of Propress steam s contact us for Propress MINI reseller this Christmas, contact us for Propress MINIdetails. reseller details. Tel: Tel:020 0208417 84170660 0660| Email: | Email:hello@propress.co.uk hello@propress.co.uk propress.co.uk | @propressUK propress.co.uk | @propressuk