Wedding Trader - issue 22 by Love Our Wedding

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Sharing... THE LESSONS LEARNED DURING LOCKDOWN

ISSUE 22• JULY/AUGUST ’20

DLY G U O PR ORTIN P SUPBRITISHEAR ALW RS D I R B ETAILE R

SHOWCASE DOZENS OF GOWNS DESTINED TO BE BEST SELLERS

Open for business

NEW WAYS OF WORKING NEW COLLECTIONS NEW CUSTOMERS

EXHIBITIONS

WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FRONT... FROM VIRTUAL TO ACTUAL

ALLUREBRIDALS.COM

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WHAT ’ S WHE RE

10 UPDATE Things worth knowing about

47 V IE WPO INT Let’s hear from Sharon MacPherson

16 L AURA’S TH OUGH T S Business zones and how they work

V E NU E- S PE AK Top venues of what they are finding

18 BA RCE LONA Exclusive: Where it goes from here

T IM E WE L L S P E N T Creatiques has never been busier

20 L ET TE R FR OM AMER ICA What’s happening in retail in the US now

M AKING AN IM P R ES S I O N Amy Mair Couture takes control

24 EL L IE’S P LACE Getting change in place

BY AS S O C IAT IO N What the industry associations are doing

26 TA KING TH E LE AD Straight talking from Abi Neill

30 EMBRACING ‘NOR M AL’ Making your communications work

36 T HINKING IT TH RO U GH We will prevail says Sue Lovell

38 N OW H EAR TH IS Emma Meek does not mince words

40 TA KING CH ARGE Maria Musgrove charges foward

44 I DID IT MY WAY Lessons to learn from Emma Hartley

GROOMS’ ROOM How the guys will choose to dress T EC H N O The way forward for trouble-free fittings T RA I N I N G Get the troops pulling together

HE ADSTART Meet designer Rachel Trevor Morgan

G O I N G LEG A L Where you stand with deposit returns FINANCE Advice for post-Covid management A N D F I N A LLY Your views, your news

EUROPEAN BRIDAL WEEK It was just great FR O M B R IDAL TO P P E Essense of Australia for a new company B O L D AND B R I LLI A N T Olvi’s makes a big style statement B R IDESTAL K They are talking dress – of course! LO O KING GO R G EO U S Welcome to the Wedding Trader showroom

RACHEL TREVOR MORGAN

ANNA GEORGINA

contents

JULY/AUGUST 2020 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 5

ENZOANI.COM

CO NTACT US

Ed’s Letter

Editor Susi Rogol

It’s been a very very long few months, and an experience we hope will not have to be repeated. But we have come through it, we have learned from it and, in the main, although a bit battered and bruised. we have emerged with positive attitudes and pioneering instincts. So many retailers reported their concerns about the regulations governing shop reopenings but, when it came to it, found that their customers were accepting of the new conditions and respected shop owners adhering to them. And, best surprise of all, appointment books for many have been filled to capacity and conversion rates higher than the usual. And think how much we have had to learn about the value of communications. Retailers have developed skills they never knew they possessed, taking charge of their social media activity and control of their website, producing their own video presentations to showcase new collections to their potential customers. Who would have thought a year ago – or had the confidence – to pick up a mic and smile at the camera, and talk, talk, talk about trends, about fabrics, about designer detailing? The behind-the-scenes (AKA working from front lounge rather than back office) experience has been invaluable to so many of us, giving us time to think, focus and analyse what is important and what can be improved. Retailers have evaluated everything from the labels carried to the lighting in changing rooms, from ROI to buying habits and from website efficiency to relationships with suppliers. And the virtual presentations from many of the top manufacturers – presentations packed with expert advice as well as the line-up of new frocks – have made a key difference. Will they carry on with them? This could also be great way to buy across the year. Yes, 2021 looks like being action packed from start to finish. We could find there is no ‘season’ next year but that that the whole year is wedding season and that business is better than we possibly could have hoped for during those few long months that wiped out a chunk EDITOR of 2020. SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND TEAM TALK Andy Allen Art Director “Pages and pages of new season dresses. It’s like having our own showroom right here.” (p82) Martha Cooke Head of Advertising “It is amazing to read about what shop owners were doing during lockdown. Harder work than ever before.” (p56) Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding “Will Harrogate go ahead in September? What will the new venue be like? Wendy Adams explains the possibilities.” (p36)

susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Menswear Editor Dominic Bliss dominic.bliss@btopenworld.com

Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com

Head of Advertising Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122 @WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader

weddingtradermag.com

Trader WEDDING

Wedding Trader magazine is distributed to hundreds of the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is a new trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

Cover image: Gorgeousness... Danila by Ronald Joyce

MEANT TO BE MEDIA Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 7 Derbyshire Road, Manchester M40 1QN. Tel: 0161 681 1771 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish: F IND YOUR

LOV E OUR

DREAM DRESS

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TALKING P OI N T The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now

Newer than new We might be seeing new collections many months later than usual, but some things are certainly worth waiting for. Starting on page 70 we’ve hand-picked the gowns that promise to be best sellers, and gathered information that will help you make that allimportant buying decision. We reckon this one, Jasmine Grace by Sophia Tolli Australia, with beaded schiffi lace appliqués on misty tulle, glitter tulle and organza, will be one of the big stars.

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Could This Be The Change Bridal Needs?

REAL R OM A N C E

Norway-based Digi Sposa has launched what they say is the first digital platform for the bridal wholesale industry where brands can showcase their ranges and connect with retailers, allowing them to view and purchase collections, simplifying wholesale transactions. Digi Sposa believes that this technological development could well change the bridal industry. “Imagine a single marketplace where bridal brands can showcase and sell their collections and where bridal retailers can directly chat with the brands they are interested in buying from at anytime from anywhere,” says Hamid Sadoni, founder and CEO of Digi Sposa . Hamid has over a decade of experience in the bridal industry, both as a sales director and as the creative director behind the Sadoni bridal label; that experience and knowledge served as the base for Digi Sposa, a tool that ultimately sparks business growth. The platform comes with several integrated tools that allow businesses to manage all transactions and communication in one place, taking into consideration the perspectives of designers, sellers, buyers and software developers. For more information visit www.digisposa.com

The enchanting Romance Collection by Kobbus Dippenaar of Anna Georgina sees signature silhouettes embellished with decadent embroideries in luxurious fabrics and a palette of soft blush and ivory. This lavish line up features dotted jacquard, silk tulle, Chantilly lace and introduces dramatic highlights – feather capes, hand-beaded bodices and wide-legged satin pants – all the ingredients for an out and out success story. The message to women from Kobbus is: “Dress powerfully, be powerful, and don’t underestimate the power of the feminine.” www. anngeorgina.co.za

Deliciously Different Woná Concept is a Ukrainian bridal and luxury fashion label (Woná means ‘she’) with a flagship store in the heart of New York City. The look is luxurious and self-assertive and the detailing remarkable in its quality and always innovative. We feel that the new ‘cruise’ collection, called Catching the Wind, fits the contemporary bridal bill perfectly.

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A Fairytale Wedding Colchester store Fairytale Bride issued a message via social media to front-line workers announcing an amazing giveaway – a gown up to the value of £2,000 and five runner-up prizes of high-value discount vouchers. The response, unsurprisingly, was huge. The winner was Chloe Bayes who, during the pandemic, has been caring for sick premature and newborn babies, while her partner Will, also an NHS nursing professional, has cared for critically unwell patients. Because of shift differences the couple have gone for days without seeing each other and have also had to put their wedding planning on hold. But when the time is right, Chloe will be wearing a dream of a dress as a result of the Fairytale Brides’ generous offer.

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DON’T MISS THE BIG EVENT Tony and Claire Bromilow of AB Agencies are getting their show on the road with a series of pop-up events across the UK, featuring the newest collections from Modeca, Randy Fenoli, Herve Paris and Libelle, and looking to replicate the success of Bridal Event Amsterdam, which was staged just before lockdown. The pop ups, in Carlisle, Bolton, Hemel Hempstead and the Midlands will give retailers the opportunity to see, touch, love and buy from these great labels and they’ll be run in line with the health and safety rulings. Book an appointment now – call Tony on 07962 226543, Claire on 07876 089704 or email abagenciesltd@gmail.com

ronaldjoyce.com DAWN

Hyve Announces New Show Dates After the cancellation of the SS21 shows, it has been confirmed that the next editions of Pure London, Pure Origin, Scoop and Jacket Required will now take place in the capital on 14-16 February 2021. Organiser Hyve is currently working on a digital forum designed to unite the fashion industry. Called Fashion Together, it recognises the importance of connecting people and will provide an exclusive seminar programme and practical advice designed to educate and inform delegates. This will take place from 1-2 September 2020 and is open to fashion brands and buyers.

FOOTLOOSE?

According to flipflop makers Havaianas, the new slim Flatform Glitter are the perfect elegant slipon for any wedding. They sparkle in gold, they shimmer in silver, and if not the bride’s own first choice, they make a great gift for maids.

A JEWEL OF A LOOK Renowned shoe designer Freya Rose, along with the fabulous footwear with her signature mother of pearl and metallic highlights, also creates deliciously different evening bags and jewellery. This beautiful pair of outsize earrings, called Freya Echo Flower, suspends silk and freshwater pearls on fine gold-plated chains.

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R O SA C L A RÁ L AU NC HES BR IDA L COATS A ND CA PES Spanish house Rosa Clará, now in its 25th year, has launched a capsule collection of capes, coats and jackets to complement its bridal collection, perfectly timed for autumn and winter weddings, which are on the increase this year. Long and bracelet sleeve designs are included in the collection. Crepe and georgette, lace and tulle are among the fabrics in this perfectly-timed range, along with mikado and taffeta; styles go from voluminous and floaty to sharply tailored, and ethereal fantasy to chic minimalism.

www.morilee.co.uk

ADDISON

In My Opinion No question, it’s all very different now, and will continue that way. Laura Daly is back in the ‘new’ shop

’m writing this sitting in my office at the shop. With the door shut. In my bubble, as it were. Hand sanitiser bottle on the desk, fighting for space with the anti-bacterial wipes and a bottle of Zoflora for good measure. I’m now on permanent email, phone, and social media duties, and I’m back working in my shop six days a week. Half of my girls are still on furlough as the childcare issues are many and varied. I’ve made a promise to myself never again to take a day off for granted. I’ve worked every single day of the lockdown and, quite honestly, I need a break! The responsibility and the long days are physically draining. Emotionally, I’m a wreck as well – so many 2020 brides with ruined plans and even a handful of cancelled weddings from couples who didn’t make it past three months of being locked up together. Our 2020 brides deserve medals – all of them – they have been wholly pragmatic, accepting and remarkably unfazed, but being the shoulder to cry on has taken its toll!

The other side of my door, Lily is on a charm offensive with her first customer of the day. With social distancing in mind, we’re currently limiting brides to one guest each and we make this very clear when the appointment is arranged. Poor Lily is now having to explain why the bride’s second guest (her sister) must stay outside.

that we’d bend the rules once they’d arrived.

Getting procedures in place There’s the ‘please use the sanitiser’; the offering of masks if anyone feels they need them; the serving of refreshments and the laughter over the fact that the posh china and biscuits has been replaced by biodegradable It’s all happening paper cups and a wrapped cookie, These ladies don’t sound happy and and the form to be signed declaring are demanding to know why they can’t customer and guest ‘Covid-free to the all pile in, just like they did last year best of our knowledge’. when the sister bought her dress… A polite explanation to the bride’s To a background of Apple Music’s Mum on how to dress her daughter in finest chill-out mix, I can just about the changing room follows, and a chat hear Lily going through the reasons, about the pre-booked dresses the even though these ladies have had two bride has requested to see. phone calls and an email informing There’s a quiet seriousness on our them each time of our operational part about it all, punctuated by a joke changes and single guest policy. here and there and a fit of giggles when As a compromise, a chair is found the Mum asks her daughter if she had and, if I squint through the spy hole in remembered to put on her underwear. my door, I can see the sister sitting in Meanwhile, in zone two, owing to the doorway, clearly not amused at the fact that our appointments now all. Turns out Mum had decided not have staggered start times, Mel is to tell her the one guest policy, based still waiting for her guest to arrive, on her completely wrong assumption preparing her area by wiping down all

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the surfaces, spraying the carpet and curtains, and checking that all the hand sanitising units in her part of the shop are replenished. Action all over the shop In zone three, our seamstress is already in her face mask and ready to pin fit her first bride of the day. Because, yes, there are still brides who are having to ‘go along’ with their venues and keep their fingers crossed that they will still have their July wedding. Forced into a sad game of ‘Chicken’, if they don’t want to lose their hefty deposits, they are made to wait until around ten days before the wedding date, at which point the venue will decide if the wedding can take place or not. Heartbreaking. That was then... Three months ago, how different it all was – we didn’t work in zones or bubbles; we happily accommodated more or less as many guests as we could cram in; we cleaned once a day; and, if anyone had said they were considering wearing a mask during a bridal appointment, we’d have laughed them out the shop! We hugged, we air-kissed, we highfived, and we all had our lunch together in a tiny room, happily sharing the same crockery. Our brides were well on their way to putting the finishing touches to their summer weddings at which they were looking forward to welcoming 150-or-so guests. And this is now Fast forward to 20 June 2020 and, my, how it’s all changed. How we’ve changed. We’ve had to – there’s been no choice. To comply with all the various health and safety guidelines and mandates, we’ve had to adopt a way of working

that is, at least for the time being, our ‘new normal’. For the most part, we are operating in a way that is totally alien, if not the polar opposite, to how we’d normally conduct business. Shared views On the many online chat groups of which I’m lucky to be a member, there was a general consensus that bridal shopping habits would probably be different – that brides would return to us fearful, with little money, they wouldn’t want to shop around, and they would be happy to buy on the first visit, so as to keep their mums, their sisters and their friends safe. At our various staff Zoom meetings, we’ve gone over and over how we could best serve our customers, how we would reassure them in their re-emergence into the big bad world under the shadow of a world pandemic. We discussed how we would make a big show of cleaning and sanitising the dresses in front of them to show how careful we were being. But, you know what… you’ve got to love a bride – because, well, at least in my neck of the woods, she’s back – just as indecisive as ever, with the same need to go to various other shops and, if anything, with an even bigger budget. She still wants all her girls with her and having limited guests is actually quite an annoyance to her. She understands, of course, about all the new rules and procedures… but, then again, she’s a special case, and Nan’s in the car, and surely we can just let her come in… We’ve changed. Our brides haven’t. They seem to expect to be able to carry on from exactly where they left off. They’re searching for the ‘old normal’. Let’s hope we can give it back to them soon, for all our sakes!

WOW FROCK !

We Love... Addison is from the new Justin Alexander collection, which takes the best of classic silhouettes and dresses them with thoroughly modern detailing in lace, organza and tulle. justinalexander.com

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BA R C E LON A... TO DAY A N D TO MO RROW

As the world-renowned and most influential of all bridal events changes its format in observance of the new health and safety measures, Wedding Trader talked to Estermaria Laruccia, VBBFW Director Business has changed as a result of the pandemic and the possibility of further outbreaks. How should/can retailers persuade future brides to buy from them when the lockdown no longer applies to bridal stores? The consequences of the health crisis generated by the pandemic have certainly disrupted our personal and professional habits and they’re also changing the dynamics of the market and, above all, the way we relate to each other, shop and do business. The new technologies are playing – and will continue to play – an increasingly important role, as was made clear in the study titled The Shops Of The Future For Millennial Brides that VBBFW asked IESE Professor Nueno to conduct. The future has arrived in an unexpected and dramatic manner and it has also accelerated changes that were pending in the retail channel. Bridal stores will also have to change the way they seduce their customers, facilitating virtual shopping journeys and welcoming the bride to the store solely for the final phase of the purchase. They’ll obviously have to adapt their premises to the health safety standards stemming from the pandemic, but this will be the final

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step; beforehand they’ll have to activate effective communication focused on very specific targets and make the experience more enjoyable. Generally speaking, companies will have to compete in a new environment marked by social distancing, accelerated digitisation, a reconfiguration of the global supply chains and the need to show that they’re sustainable in the face of a more aware and demanding society. It’s essential for everyone to reconnect with the professionals from the sector and future brides. And getting used to doing so in this new environment is fundamental if we want to be ready and well-prepared as soon as the situation improves. Weddings haven’t been cancelled, they’ve just been postponed. What style will the weddings of the future adopt? Weddings represent a very intimate and social moment. They’re a celebration of love accompanied by the important people in the lives of the bride and groom and their families. And we’ll continue to hold lots of weddings. In fact, 2021 could combine those that have been postponed this year and those scheduled for next year. The budget may be lower in some cases, and this will particularly affect some of the items that make up the cost of the wedding, such as the reception, the number of guests and the honeymoon. However, the bride’s dress in particular, but also the groom’s and guests’ clothes, will continue to be regarded as priorities. Bridal brands will have to adapt the delivery schedule to the new reality, and proper planning of supplies and operations will be essential. What will the event of the future be like? Will it be very different in the case of, say, VBBFW? How and when will retailers be able to see and touch the latest collections? The new VBBFW will reward them with a Phigital experience bringing together the best of the physical and digital worlds. But, due to the

uncertainty of the current times, the commercial contacts and the presentations of the new collections at the next show in September will be organised in our digital space to guarantee our customers’ safety. This will be an immersive and interactive space that’s virtually connected with the sector’s operators all over the world. The fashion shows will be pre-recorded on an innovative 400m2 stage consisting of LED screens seven metres high and over 20 metres wide. It will be able to adapt to the artistic needs of each designer, thus creating an immersive and unique experience for each presentation. The shows will be prerecorded with the necessary safety measures in place and streamed from 4 September onwards. They will be accessible to a global audience who will experience the show in an interactive manner. The platform will also permit the establishment of a network of business contacts with a global audience, facilitating the interaction of the brands with buyers, wedding planners, influencers and specifiers in an online environment so as to showcase the collections, create an impact with direct communication and reveal the latest news and opportunities within the industry. The digital space will provide different services such as the online showroom, chat and video conferences and the chance to collect audience data segmented by countries, ages or preferences. The VBBFW app will be designed in a simple and intuitive way so that buyers and influencers can browse, chat and meet up virtually with brand representatives, at any time and from anywhere, via a mobile phone or computer. We’re developing this with La Fura dels Baus, the theatre company specialising in the production of disruptive shows, the one that organised the opening ceremony for the Barcelona Olympics in 1992 and which, since then, has continued to create subversive performances for circuses, the opera, theatres, parades and the performing

arts in general. This partnership will enable us to combine creativity and technological innovation to overcome the limits placed on us by this new context, thanks to the creation of a digital space to reconnect the protagonists of bridal fashion and revive the passion of our industry in a different global setting. VBBFW will seek, more than ever before, to provide the industry with all the support possible in order to relaunch business at a particularly complex time. We will maintain this digital exchange channel in future years, even when things have returned to normal, because it offers a wonderful opportunity to multiply the connections between the domestic and international stakeholders in the sector in a direct and immediate manner. And it will also facilitate on-site visits to the next show in 2021. This year, retailers will be able to see the collections of the participating brands in a virtual environment and view those of the other firms connected to the digital platform. On this occasion they won’t be able to ‘touch’ the products, but they’ll have the chance to talk to the manufacturers, distributors and designers, make appointments and complete orders. Will weddings themselves change in terms of style and budget? They’ll change but, as I mentioned, I’d like to stress that the weddings scheduled for 2020 haven’t been cancelled, they’ve been postponed. Weddings will become more intimate, with fewer guests. The costs may be lower than usual, but couples will still want to celebrate their big day with their family and friends, and brides won’t forego the chance to wear the dress of their dreams. This, now more than ever before, is what instills us with optimism, strength and hope with regard to this year’s VBBFW, which will undoubtedly mark a new beginning for the industry. We look forward to seeing you all enjoy the fashion shows on our digital

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Letter from America Peter Grimes, publisher of VOWS magazine, the key trade title in the US, believes it is vital that retailers have a carefully planned strategy and a process in place to inject positivity into the new chapter in the life of the bridal industry

n the US – as in the UK – retailers, their teams (and their brides) are worried, apprehensive and anxious about the health of their families and staff, and about their own short-term financial well-being as they struggle to meet the changing COVID-19 precautions, and adjust to fewer appointments and smaller bridal parties. Stores’ success through this period ranges from low traffic and disappointing sales to near 100% closing ratios and strong sales in a limited appointment environment.

Though there is rarely a single reason for this disparity, I do believe that how we rise to this challenge exhibited through all interactions with staff and customers may be the deciding factor. Essentially, the store owners we see succeeding here understand that they play a critical role in easing concerns and providing reassurance, comfort and confidence, and are very aware that what they say and do can bring positivity and balance into times rattled by widespread uncertainty and fear.

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The next issue of VOWS addresses this ‘new normal,’ and includes the following suggestions and encouragements: • Embrace your entrepreneurial spirit: Entrepreneurs are risk takers and doers. As a retailer, you’ve already confronted fear and unease. You’ve opened a store. You’ve dealt with challenging, tough customers. You’ve likely endured an economic downturn or two. You’ve stared at debt and confronted shifting market conditions. And being here, remaining open after the unexpected hit COVID-19 delivered, proves your resiliency. Lean on that for inspiration as you navigate these challenging times. Honor thy mission: Every business should hold some mission statement – or at least possess a guiding purpose behind its actions. Leaning heavily on that mission, letting it direct decision-making and communicating it often, pushes conversations away from fear or uncertainty and into

something positive. And in the case of thoughtful responses. many retailers, that’s ensuring brides Practice empathy and compassion: With employees as well as customers, have a magical day. Prioritise communication: A failure to work to understand their challenges and concerns. Staff might be taxed as communicate will likely spark angst and unease. Provide clear information they juggle work and home life. Brides might be concerned about the ability to customers and staff on store policies regarding safety protocols or of beloved relatives to attend their changes to the ‘normal’ appointment. wedding. Show genuine concern. If you sense an employee is Regular, open communication will overwhelmed, encourage them to help put people at ease and nudges take a walk or find a sub for their everyone onto the same page. Yet hours. If you see a bride having a more, using different vehicles to particularly stressful experience, communicate, from video to even encourage her to take a private vignettes in store windows, can all project positivity and reinforce the key moment for herself. Offer individuals the time and space messages you want to share. Celebrate positive moments: Counter as well as the support to discover balance and inner peace. negativity by recognising positive Respond appropriately to bride’s moments in the day. When a bride says yes to her dress, virus or political rants: As boutiques reopen, consultants have encountered give that moment its proper weight: everything from Ring a bell. brides with zero Blast some Remaining open after the fear who seem music. Pop annoyed by safety some bubbly. unexpected hit COVID-19 precautions and When a stylist aren’t shy about closes a sale, delivered, proves your sharing their acknowledge a resiliency. Lean on that for opinion that the job well done. Share photos inspiration as you navigate virus is majorly overblown, to or notes from brides who are these challenging times recent brides so nervous they on an in-store call ahead of bulletin board. time to quiz you extensively about Where goodness exists, celebrate it. Be honest: Though transparency can whether masks are required and staff be tough amid challenging, uncertain temperatures are taken daily, then arrive for their appointment practically times, acknowledge concerns, give wearing a full hazmat suit. straight answers and be as clear and Promote teamwork: During times honest as possible without stirring of fear, people often feel alone or added stress and fear. If supply isolated. Bring consultants together chain issues arise, for example, over morning coffee or an afteracknowledge those and suggest alternatives to brides. If the business is hours gathering to help them feel facing financial difficulties, share those connected and part of a bigger unit. with staff and brainstorm solutions or Side with optimism: Even if the future is cloudy, continue to look ahead and note actions being taken. plan for it. Such transparency helps people Brainstorm ways the boutique can understand present realities, prevents adopt and pivot – something so many rumours or misinformation from sending people down dark paths and retailers did with curbside pickup and virtual meetings amid the novel assures others that you’re actively coronavirus pandemic – and be open involved, listening and crafting

to ways your business can find its footing amid a new normal. Continue marketing: Put events on your calendar. Stay active with creative and appropriate social media campaigns. Look to your resources, brands and designers. Keep championing your brand promise. Insist on walking forward.

Feedback from VOWS social media poll 71% of boutiques surveyed in a VOWS social-media poll say they have been subject to some kind of ‘virus rant’ from a bride over the past month. And that is not the only hot topic on peoples’ minds: some brides are bringing up the Black Lives Matter Protests during their appointments, too. It puts the stylist in an awkward position regarding how to respond. Should she ignore it? Agree with the bride? Engage in meaningful dialogue? Knowing the right move to make feels a bit like navigating a minefield, especially given the sensitive nature of these topics and the importance of building a rapport with (not alienating) any customer. While generally speaking you want to mimic your client’s mood to gain her confidence, in this specific case, it’s best to reassure the bride while returning her focus to the dress search. The best approach allows you to acknowledge the customer’s viewpoint without getting involved in a potentially emotionally charged, alienating discussion.

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WILDERLYBRIDE.COM

All change Ellie Sanderson has thought long and hard about the different way of working that is essential to the growth of our industry dresses for our brides – I salute you. In fact, I salute any small business that has come out the other side of this insane time intact. Many shops didn’t, my town of Beaconsfield has casualties as does Woodstock – at least ten percent didn’t make it. So well done to all of us who did.

about marriage ceremonies, which have frankly paralysed our industry. From venues to photographers and florists to bridal retail, these ridiculous ‘guidelines’ have been the kiss of death, not life. The day after that fateful announcement we saw a huge uplift on postponements for the rest of the year. Our brides have spoken Facts and figures and they don’t want to have small I re-opened on 15 June and so far weddings. so good – we have sold dresses. I We also have potential local do however remain in the ‘cautious lockdowns on the horizon and it looks camp’ about trading. I think it’s unlikely likely that true recovery won’t really that we will return to a recognisable get going until spring 2021. I remain “business as usual’ any time soon. hopeful that next year will be incredible Sorry to chuck a bucket of cold water if we can all handle the volume. over things but we are facing many oming out of lockdown This year, though, is going to be challenges, some of which haven’t has been an interesting tough. Many of the retailers I talk even happened yet. and somewhat stressful to about turnover predict that 2020 To start with, there is a significant time for many of us. Not figures will be between 40%-50% downturn in consumer demand; this least because a number lower than we had hoped for. Let’s sits alongside people about to come of us missed out on the lockdown pray these rules are lifted soon off furlough only to face redundancy. ‘holiday’ that many non-business and the virus R rate remains under Despite unprecedented government owners enjoyed. one percent so we can get back to support, financial wellbeing has It’s been a stressful time because business. deteriorated drastically. Consumer we have each managed hundreds confidence is dropping sharply of postponed weddings and all the Strategic planning to levels not seen since the 2008 unpicking that go with it. It’s really Making one’s business Covid-secure financial crisis. According to 55% taken a lot of stamina and drive means that retailers who rely on a of respondents in a recent survey* to plough through most days and large volume of clients will start to they expect the general economic weekends. It’s also taken a huge feel the pain first. Bridal shops that situation to get a lot worse in the next have six fitting rooms are probably amount of wine! 12 months. And talking of wine, I want to raise down to three or four. Even if they Then on top of that are the a glass to those suppliers who carried manage to convert the same number ridiculous Coronavirus guidelines on during the pandemic to make of brides this will mean that 30% less

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I have to say that Jesus Peiro ➢ w New stock investment can be seen. With that in mind, now is the time to re-think your short-term This is a tough one as we all want new has been a shining light in this disastrous mess. Marion tentatively stock, but stock remains one of our business model. If your capacity is biggest costs. Investing too much now asked if we wanted to take a look down by 30% your sales will match it. at the new dresses; she has put no will mean your new stock could be Increasing your Average Transaction pressure on any of us, she has been hanging on the rail to go out of date. Value is always on my radar, but Not buying now will mean you cannot there throughout with a nod and sadly the past few weeks has shown a hello-how-are-you. Marion has satisfy demand when it happens. It’s a number of us that increasing the singlehandedly given JP average spend at this juncture stockists positive hope and will not fill the gap. So what strategic planning Many of the retailers I talk to about news from Spain who reopened first. She has helped should we be looking at: turnover predict that 2020 figures us with the new collection and not forced us w New bottom line turnover will be between 40%-50% lower than choices in any way. This partnership This is the one to chase as we all and considered, professional know; busy selling with a poor we had hoped for. approach has encouraged us bottom line is frankly pointless. to buy safely and with plans Set your target for this then a juggling game and your figures and to pay discussed on an individual review the following areas. basis upfront. instinct will guide you. ➢w New sales targets Shame on you suppliers who have Set a new sales target for 2020. Use bullied poor novice or scared retailers the knowledge you have gained in the Consider these points before to buy at this time. Shame on you spending: past few weeks and use it to predict suppliers who haven’t partnered or • We only had our new 2020 your trading. Plan for the worst and collections on the rails for 16 weeks communicated with their retailers hope for the best. Once you have a but instead gone silent. It really has until lockdown – they are still new clear target in place you can take a been ugly. and still coveted. hard look at your cost base. • We have sold nothing for 12 weeks Remember to review this monthly Looking ahead during lockdown – this makes at this time. And bear in mind your evaluating your return on last year’s However onwards we will move. reduced appointment capacity; you I know it’s easy to feel safe and investment impossible. Use your cannot take the same money if you comfortable now we are open and history and use your instinct. see 30% less people. I am open seven I think it’s good to feel positive and • We are unsure what the economy days a week and cannot get near my will do but we know we are heading upbeat as brides are spending. But old appointment capacity. This is a there is a gap that will not be filled in towards a global recession. key factor – don’t ignore it. • Treat with caution suppliers who tell 2020: the big question is will it be filled ➢w New staff costs in 2021 to make up for this commercial you that: “everyone is selling and What was your staff cost ratio before loss or do we need to just wipe it off everyone is busy – its YOU”. It is not lock down in % to sales terms? Do the slate and move forward? you... they just need to sell too. you need to cut this now that sales Whatever happens, I know 2021 are lower? Don’t forget furlough ends • Develop a relationship with your is going to be one hell of year and suppliers and work with those who soon so you need to be planning if our production plans have already work with you. you can afford to get your all your started. Holiday schedules are in girls back. If your sales predictions are place and we are trying to enjoy a At this point I have to mention the now lower than your original for 2020 year off fittings and late nights. We are (and I expect 90% of retailers will have insane pressure many bridal shops all going to need to get our trainers on have been under during lockdown. lower targets) then you will need to for next year. There has been pressure to seriously consider this cut. Bring it on, I say. I love a big manage their brides, pressure However, if your business is in a challenge. to juggle the money, pressure to growth spurt you may be safe. This take deliveries into their homes so will be new businesses that are suppliers can send out invoices, still developing. Fortunately I sit in pressure to buy new collections with this bracket with my new shop in x no re-opening date. Some suppliers Woodstock as we were about to have shown their true colours and recruit pre lockdown; I won’t make some of what we have all seen has those cuts now and at least it means * source – Resolution Foundation: The Economic Effects of Coronavirus in the UK been blooming ugly. everyone’s hours are safe.

Ellie

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Taking the lead

Wedding Trader welcomes on board retailer Abi Neill who is widely regarded as an industry influencer. With a vast number of awards under her belt, she has a clear vision of what is needed in today’s environment to build a better business

hen I launched my little bridal shop way back in 2005, the UK bridal landscape looked and felt very different. So much has changed and those of us old enough to glance back a few bridal decades will conclude that not only has bridal evolved but the marketing efforts and activity we are now required to carry out as retailers in order to engage with our customers and drive brides into store is quite different. Once upon a time a speedy, wellconstructed website packed with enticing visuals and a few regular print ads was largely what it took. That, in addition to the acquisition of a well-advertised and sought-after bridal brand on your rails, plus a few Sunday wedding fairs at local venues was the icing on the cake for many of us bridal retailers. Lead generation, or enquiry building, is an entirely different game now. It involves a seamless blend of both traditional advertising and digital methods and it all starts with understanding your target bride and knowing her habits. Understanding things things like what she likes, where she shops, how she lives her life (virtually and literally) is important.

In marketingspeak this is often referred to as your ‘customer avatar’. Once you understand your customer avatar you can begin to develop your brand with consistent messaging and create appropriately-curated social media content that will appeal to her. The physicality of your store, your collections and products that you sell and your online style and social media content all need consideration and must be cohesive. Communicating the story behind your retail store and the ethos is important. Ask yourself – are you attracting the right customers? And does the design of your shop and online presence align itself with the style and personality of your target bride? Leading labels We all know who the enquirygenerating brands in bridal are these days and if you’re lucky enough to have dresses from a strong name on your rails you may have to work less on your digital, advertising and marketing strategy. Secure the right brands, back them up with a fantastic experience in-store with a savvy sales team and providing your sales approach is on point, the sales may come relatively easily.

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Website A well-constructed, visually pleasing, up-to-date,quick and impactful website is essential. There’s no point working hard to generate enquiries but then falling at the last hurdle with a poorly-performing or unprofessional website. Brides will want to learn more about your brand and your values and in addition to your social media they will visit your site and assess what you have to offer. Owning a well-designed website is a priority and ensuring it is mobilefriendly is a must! Don’t forget to sign up for a free listing on the Google business directory as this helps improve your organic search ranking. A properly-written and fullyoptimized Google My Business page can help your business to appear in local searches and research indicates that four out of five consumers perform a local search before committing to an appointment or a purchasing decision. You must ensure that you have an SEO (search engine optimisation) strategy in place for your website. Your aim should be to ensure that your site will rank well ‘organically’ when the relevant search terms are typed in the search bar such as

Strategic partnerships Building relationships with local businesses such as hairdressers, photographers and venues could be useful. Working in tandem on social media projects or formulating a Social Media mutual recommendation partnership In the business and marketing world may prove fruitful for all and of today social media is king! The could drive enquiries. Becoming content you generate on your social platforms is one of the keys to driving a recommended partner or, even better, a sole supplier can be really bridal enquiries. The most popular platform is Instagram followed closely advantageous and although those by Facebook and Pinterest. Tik-Tok is relationships are hard to find they are certainly ones to aim for. certainly where the most fun is and although the content is entertaining Email marketing you do need to keep an eye on time Thanks to email software like Mail spent versus the enquiries received. Social media is a daunting prospect Chimp (compatible with Bridal and is all consuming! Knowing what to Live), it’s really easy to set up email post and when can cause a headache. marketing campaigns. Potential customers can opt to sign up for Remember, it needs to be on-brand, newsletters through your website and relevant and of interest! you can use your email campaigns Strive to inform or entertain and to advertise promotions, designer create content that covers all areas. events, and news stories that relate to Share behind the scenes info, your beautiful dress images, inspo pics and your brand and its core values. A captivating subject title really boutique pics. Upload entertaining pays off and will improve open rates content and utilise the marketing so take some time to think about how assets that your designers make to grab attention.. available. Don’t be afraid to share Often underrated, newsletters can glimpses of your home life and your team as well as real bride images too. be really effective in developing your business fan base and an informal This mix will really showcase your customer referral programme long boutique’s personality. Brides want after a wedding has passed. to shop at relatable businesses and connect personally with your people Wedding shows / Open days in order that they can enjoy real experiences. Let your guard down. Be Providing you’ve conducted show or venue research and asked the authentic, be real and be you. organiser relevant questions and understood anticipated footfall, these Digital advertising can be a Sunday well spent. Even Paid digital advertising is a strong generating a handful of prequalified and consistent lead-building appointments or leads where you option but without understanding have the opportunity to talk to and the technicalities of social media connect directly with your target advertising your money will be market might be beneficial. wasted! Agreeing to attend an open day Ensure that you know what you to assist the venue by showcasing are doing before you spend on wedding dress mannequins Facebook or Instagram advertising throughout the building would be a or invest in someone who can teach great opportunity to catch the eye of you or, budget permitting, do it for your potential brides. Add to that a you. Ensure that you can access and competition or product giveaway in interpret the stats and analytics or have an expert take a look at these – it exchange for an email address and is wise to learn what works so that you you are on the road to developing can spend your future pennies wisely. a marketable database lead list ‘wedding dress shops near me’. It isn’t enough that your site looks good, it also needs to perform well to drive brides to your boutique.

for newsletters or special event promotion. Recommendations and reviews Never underestimate the power of recommendations, referrals and online reviews. Develop a strong instore experience to impress your brides and you will automatically create loyal fans and store advocates. They will spread the word and tell their friends and family. Often retailers find that grateful brides who have been made to feel really special love being asked to write reviews. In many cases brides are happy to be given the opportunity to do something for the retailer in return for the memory of an amazing experience so don’t be too self-conscious about politely and directly asking for reviews. Press / editorials Developing good relationships with local press and lifestyle magazine editors is worthwhile. Google ‘press release templates’ and gem up on how to write a good press release and you could find that your charity efforts, most recent award win, business birthday, new label, special wedding couple or your latest competition are considered newsworthy. And your existing customer base will love seeing you in the papers! As you can see there are many ways to lead generate and drive brides into your store and the list above is in no way exhaustive. We all know that the bridal business is competitive. Perhaps consider finding your marketing niche or establish which of the above suits your business and focus some effort there. Trying to do all of the above will be ambitious so don’t feel inadequate if you are ticking the boxes on only ‘some of the above’ – most retailers are doing the same. Abi Neill of Abigail’s Collection is available for coaching and advice at www.abineill.co.uk – she specialises in new business start-ups, staffing matters, marketing and social media. Connect with Abi on Insta @AbiNeill or DM with enquiries.

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Embracing Your New Normal

US guru Myrna Plaisir Daramy advises on the best ways to get your message out there to a wide and interested audience and to thrive in the wake of Covid-19

OVID-19 has caused us all to pause. I, like you, have been going through the motions of various

emotions throughout each day as we all navigate through the current pandemic. But one thing that does bring me comfort is that we are all in this together… the entire world is facing this right now and globally we must face this new normal. Here in the US, our bridal industry has been hit very hard, as salons have been forced to close and figure out how to serve their brides while social distancing. In an industry that is based on tradition and relies heavily on hightouch service, business owners have had to get really creative in order to survive. One thing for sure, technology has had to play an instrumental role in keeping businesses connected with customers, communicating what actions are being taken, and maintaining some sense of community. In fact, it has been the one thing that has kept us going during these turbulent times. Based on what I have learned from my clients, it appears that virtual appointments, live-streaming bridal trunk shows, recording designer interviews, and engaging more on social media have been the most popular ways they continue to serve their brides. But this leads me to pose the question… With all this great content being created online for brides, what has

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been happening on the single most important real estate that you own on the web? I’m referring, of course, to your digi-home also known as your website. Business owners have been so proactive towards serving their existing brides online, that they have seemed to forget about the webspace that plays an essential role in converting prospective brides into customers… their websites. In order to be proactive and prepare your web presence for what is to come after COVID-19, I have several tips to share on what you could be doing now in order to thrive in the months ahead. 1. While you have the time, take a moment out and audit your website from your mobile device. It’s important to do this from your cell phones because mobile-optimised websites are more trusted by 51% of consumers than those that are not. In addition, it is more likely that brides will visit your website from their phones first. Here are some important things to ask yourself while you review your website: • Is my site responsive? Does it respond or change in appearance when I am on a different device? • Is the content on my homepage still current? Do I need to refresh any of the information?

• Do my social links take visitors to where they should go? • Am I even active on those social platforms? (If not, remove them from my website) • How many clicks does it take for a visitor to convert? Three or less is ideal) • Do I have CTAs (call to actions) on my site? Am I helping to steer my website visitors along or are they left to figure out what I would like them to do? • Do I have any testimonials? (They help with authenticity and trust) • Is there any old content on my site that I should repurpose or just remove? Google looks at your site as a whole and old content that is no longer relevant may be hurting you. • Do I need to add additional FAQs (frequently asked questions) that provide insight on how we will be addressing social distancing, store closings, etc.?

There may be several new policies and procedures that your brides will need to be aware of. In addition, I suggest that you create a checklist for your customers that you send them prior to their appointment with clear directions on what they need to know. 4. Now that you have had a chance to see how technology has played a role in how you can connect with your brides, consider keeping some of these practices in order to continue to offer exceptional customer service. Consider incorporating what you have learned by having virtual bridal party Zoom sessions and virtual stylist appointments in order to keep the quantity down of store visitors as well as streamlining the process so that appointments are more effective.

5. Be sure to incorporate video into your marketing strategy. Stats show that it is the preferred method of communication these days and one of the gifts that this pandemic has 2. Make sure to take advantage of local SEO (search engine optimisation) given us is learning how to feel more strategies. I strongly suggest that you comfortable in front of a camera as well as more forgiving with the create a Google My Business Profile production quality. In fact, 72% of all – if you do not have this already – consumers between the ages of 18-34 and make sure that it includes your updated hours of operation as well as prefer to watch a video in order to learn about a product or service. any updated details about how you You have the opportunity to showare serving your brides. case your beautiful store as well as I also recommend that you make the one commodity that brides view sure that it is very clear on your website how brides can connect with the most online - wedding dresses! So I highly advise that you become you, whether it is by appointment creative and have fun with video. request, call, or email. The way to do Now that governments are starting this is by making sure that your phone to emerge out from quarantine number is clickable on both the and the reopening of businesses desktop and mobile version of your will begin, I can’t stress enough website and making sure that your the importance of preparing your address is in several places of your business now in order to thrive in the website like your contact page and months to come. home page in the footer. 3. Update your FAQ section on your website and make sure that you are informing your brides on how your business is handling social distancing.

Myrna is widely regarded as the expert when it comes to retailing techniques in the US. You can connect with her as @ myrnapdaray

WOW FROCK !

We Love... Madeline Gardner was running some brilliant virtual presentations during lockdown, which gave such a good feel for the new collection. This one, Anastasia, was of our many favourites. morilee.co.uk

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RO M A N T I C A C O L L E C T I O N S BRITISH BY DESIGN

View our stunning new 2020 A/W collections digitally, with beautiful images and gorgeous videos at your fingertips. Please go to: romanticaofdevon.co.uk to explore the collections. Our stunning gowns wholesale from ÂŁ150 to ÂŁ425. Please contact our Sales Director James Waddington for further information, tel: 07977 139 403 - email: james@romanticaofdevon.co.uk www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

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Thinking It Through

Sue Lovell, of Susan Nichols Opulent Bride, has become a regular contributor to Wedding Trader with a series of heart-felt features behind her and many a thought to share for the future

sung joyously, confetti thrown, cake Staff training and run throughs, inally shops are starting to cutting and Champagne flowing toasts risk assessments and re-arranging reopen, and as we grapple with group photographs of laughing with social distancing in such changing rooms and furniture are loved ones, first dances and gorgeous all part of the big opening plans, a personal environment, it’s flower girls, will not be able to fulfill with a focus on cleaning, protecting fair to say it’s been a very productive that vision. Which is why most shops and quarantining dresses and still and somewhat exhausting time. have been taking more distressed providing a bride with a magical We are all on a learning curve – but calls, with more new wedding dates experience and her dream dress. happy to share what we are doing to added to 2021. promote a safe and still welcoming This is obviously causing retailers Planning for a different event environment for staff and customers. some major logistical issues. Storing As the new guidelines from the Shops have really stepped up to the of dresses, increased insurance, Government were announced, it challenges, reorganising the way collecting balances for dresses we work and interact with no longer required as wedding each other whilst keeping everyone safe, but without So deep breaths everyone – masks up, plans change. Looking after future brides at the beginning dampening the fun and excitement every new bride crowns on, and let’s focus on supporting of their dress journey, whilst still caring for brides who wants and expects when should have been preparing dress shopping. each other. We will prevail for their big day, or enjoying Sanitising stations, mask married life by now, is still a wearing, temperature checks priority. There is no question, 2021 is became increasingly clear that and defined seating areas are all going to be incredibly busy with two the postponements were going to standard now, and early indications years of weddings squeezed into one. continue, probably late on into the are that brides are returning, ready I have brides who were forced to year. Whilst small weddings are to buy, and happy to accept the new postpone just a few days before their romantic and intimate, those who protocols. Facetime appointments March wedding, and now their Autumn are proving popular, involving excited had planned a bigger event and wedding is being rescheduled – in dreamed of walking down the aisle bridal parties, from a safe social some cases to 2022 – as dates for 2021 with their dad by their side, hymns distance.

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visiting via social media, videos and blog posts and comforting emails, showing that we take our responsibilities to staff and customers’ health as seriously as we do our desire to help them find their dress. That applies to our suppliers too. Shops need to know that suppliers are aware of the challenges we are facing and that we need to be able to count on them, too. Without being able to sell much of the 2020 collections, funds for investing into 2021 will be limited, and we may have to choose more wisely and have extra consideration of payment terms. But it works both ways… we must also support our suppliers. If we can’t attend Harrogate, if it goes ahead, then we need to make sure we see reps and make ourselves available. And most of all we need to really be honest. We all need some security, some reassurance and to know that we are seen and understood. If you aren’t concerned about where we are heading, you aren’t paying attention, but if you recognise that by confronting potential difficulties head on, preparing for future lockdowns and disruptions and by putting plans in place to minimise the chaos, we won’t And that is where independent have already been snapped up. just survive, we will thrive. Ensuring everyone gets the service bridal stores will always beat online, We need nerves of steel as there or big box conveyor belt stores. and attention they require is my top may be a rough six-12 months ahead. Stack-them-high-sell-them-cheaper priority, but logistically I can’t store stores cannot begin to look after their People are counting on us to keep dresses for two years and I can’t focused. We need to be seen, not customers like we can. Brides now hold off getting balances in as brides need more than a dress, they need to blindly promising fairy tales, but don’t want to try on their dress just honestly addressing the worries, and know they are looked after, too. They yet. Tough decisions have to be made showing we are prepared for difficult may not be able to see all of the face in order to survive and still be here times. We have our plan, and plan behind the mask, but they need to to provide a service in 2021/22 and B and plan C. Acknowledging the recognise that they can trust us. beyond. challenges we face and reassuring Right now brides need some customers that we are ready to face certainty. We can’t make Covid Getting organised them will bring confidence and trust. disappear, but we can do everything Giving our brides a sense of security Once this all over – and it will possible to keep It at bay and limit and reassuring them that they will be be – let’s never speak of 2020 ever the spread, and work hard to keep looked after is key. Our ‘21 alterations again. The year hugs and kisses were diary is already bursting at the seams, staff and customers safe. We can reassure all our brides that we take our banned when we needed them most; but with careful planning and firm the year grey hairs were visible and organisational skills, we will prevail. No commitment to them seriously and smiles were hidden behind a mask. most of all, that we are here to help. bride will be left behind, every bride So deep breaths everyone – masks Shops are sharing their new deserves to be excited, and every up, crowns on, and let’s focus on store layouts with brides, showing bride needs to know her wedding supporting each other. customers what to expect when matters.

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Now hear this

Emma Meek of Miss Bush Bridal has a powerful voice and speaks with passion and without fear of reprimand. She is fast to criticise, but not without thinking. And she demands what she herself delivers

he only way that anyone in the UK bridal industry has survived Covid is on the strength, ingenuity, selfsacrifice and tenacity of the few. In an industry that conspires to prevent retailers from making a profit, that encourages a retail base that is too big to be sustainable, that cashes in 38 â&#x2122;Ś W E D D I N G T R A D E R â&#x2122;Ś J U L Y / A U G U S T 2 0 2 0

on impossible dreams of the majority, a minority of inspirational and indefatigable women have held their ground in the most remarkable way. The non-furloughed director, social media star and probable home educator, who has been putting in a full working week while fighting banks, insurance companies and

evolving contingency strategies, should now be invited to envisage future retail. I want to thank the group of boutique owners who have been my ‘bubble’ for the past three months. Business owners who have helped me tune out the noise and rage, have helped evolve communications and strategies for our clients, shared risk assessment documents, owned up to some dark nights of the soul and felt able to collaborate freely. Not for us home baking and suntans. Not for us a clamour to buy new wedding dresses. For the serious – the business owners who may have a ‘passion’ but not a ‘vanity’ – this has been three months of tightened belts and, ironically, elasticated waistbands. The emotional toll has been great. It started with emergency firefighting, adrenaline-fuelled and furious. It passed through ugly crying, despair at reaching out to Councils, banks and MPs. Anger and hostility at trade shows and brands that couldn’t read the room as far as pushing new collections and then, after finally hitting a wall, pushing through it to re-imagine retail. None of us know if a sample dress is ‘safe.’ Relative to the normal insanitary condition of some best sellers, the ones you can’t bear to release from the shop floor, the stock looks pristine right now. Lockdown cleaned and refreshed, the dresses are safer than a supermarket sweep. Now, whether we are waving carcinogenic wands at the dress, creating a viral soup of steam or spraying with disinfectant, soon our we could be left with a laboratory set of samples with competing chemical reactions; fizzing and radiating dubious health benefits. Quarantine for 72 hours? Stick them though at 60 degrees? Communicate risk to brides, already fragile and fearful? What now for our balance sheets when we value our samples at zero to reflect the rigorous abuse they are about to face? New dawn, new day; declutter, deep clean and communicate care. Brave faces and big girl pants for all.

Reopening is a myth. Most of us we were never closed. Three solid months of digital marketing, virtual appointments, flash sales on Insta stories, of-the-scale customer service, sending out dresses, having deliveries to home and credit control. We became the whole of our companies, not just directors. I have enviously eyed the furloughed, my feelings moving to insane jealousy. Upskilling? More like racing to keep up. I am numb and knackered and yet, now, I have to emerge from my chrysalis of crisis, wings fluttering, projecting joy and confidence whilst staring into the abyss of a still paralysed events industry. Full diaries, even with weekday appointment charging, are encouraging. The BBL sitting, untouched, gives a sense of security. My clients paid their balances, I have paid my bills and I go back to work at zero; flat lining on what was looking like a phenomenal year. My lesson from lockdown is that I have no casual clothes. I made feature of it on Instagram. “Ha, ha, ha, I only have capacious black dresses with weird sleeves.” I have no casual clothes because I have precious little leisure time. I have never had time to walk or bike ride other than

in a ferocious spin class, condensing exercise to 45-minute bursts. I don’t see the summer or weekends. I don’t have two tandem days off a week. As British boutiques go, Miss Bush is one of the oldest, successful to a point. Successful if you put aside the self-sacrifice of not owning beige shorts with pockets in the side. Success, now, needs to be measured by change. Should my self-sacrifice, and those like me, help hold up an industry that knowingly pollutes, over supplies and doesn’t listen? The talent that exists in bridal retail should be given a say, not an award. The vox pop of our industry is written off as rabid or we hear the same sententious voices. The dynamic group of woman and men that I have been in regular contact with have shown that the Bridal House of Cards depends on them. They have flexed, pivoted, pushed and shown the way. Authentic voices, compassionate customer service, innovative thinking, solid digital skills and contingency planning. Empty platitudes, pointless shoe pics, sterile social feeds and ‘Friyay’ memes are for the past. These are serious times we need serious business owners to take the industry forward.

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Taking Charge Lockdown has given us the time – and incentive – to review how we do things and examine if there is a better way. Maria Musgrove has come down in favour of paid-for appointments

known quote “To be or not to be” this is We need to ensure that every bride hen life gives you counts and that we have the maximum a question of life or death. lemons, make chance of selling to her. The questions should be: “To have lemonade is a BC shopping for a wedding gown proverbial phrase used our time wasted or not?” and “To value to encourage optimism and a positive our expertise or not?” If ever there is a was a recreational hobby for many brides with comments like: “I’m going can-do attitude in the face of adversity time to introduce a charge it is NOW! everywhere with everyone or misfortune. Lemons suggest to try on everything and then sourness or difficulty in life; In the first week of re-opening, I I’ll make a shortlist of my making lemonade is turning favourites and go back to all of them into something positive or took 11 appointments at £35 (£385 those shops again”. Even Randi desirable. almost paid for my PPE, infrared Fenoli himself would have zero I’m sure that we would all agree that Covid-19 falls into thermometer, LED ring etc) and eight chance of a “Yes to the Dress” to this bride with her FOMO the category of both sourness out of 11 brides bought (Fear of Missing Out) mindset. and difficulty so how to turn this I had two other catalysts around to something positive? that helped my decision to charge for Why now and how to do it? With a BC (Before Covid) many boutiques robust risk assessment of quarantining all appointments and not just Saturday wanted to charge for appointments dresses, a cleaning protocol that rivals appointments. One happened BC and but were too scared to, fearing it the other was DL (During Lockdown). that of Mrs Hinch and a stockpile of could be the kiss of death to their At my Go Bridal boutique I didn’t PPE and hand sanitiser, it inevitably business. Five years ago I was filled charge for Saturday appointments means that our cost of sales will with fear when I started charging £25 and our no shows and last minute for Saturday appointments as the first increase and the number of brides few requests were met with refusals to we can see will decrease. I’ve already cancellations in January and February were at an all-time high. So I started spent £1,000 across two boutiques pay! To charge or not to charge? That charging a £20 booking fee refundable and I’m reordering masks already. is the Question. Like Hamlet’s well-

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Go Bridal, refundable upon ordering a new gown (not on purchase of a sample gown or with any other discounts or designer day offers). The result is that from reopening on 15 June in the first week I took 11 appointments at £35 (£385 almost paid for my PPE, infrared thermometer, LED ring etc) and eight out 11 brides bought. Boom!

Learning from the experienced

upon ordering a gown. The first Saturday in March when everyone paid I had the best Saturday I’ve ever had with four new bridal orders, two samples sold, two bridesmaid orders and two prom orders – a 100% conversion rate. And nothing had changed apart from the charge. My next example doesn’t have such a happy ending. During lockdown, a bride who had been back to the boutique in July 2019 contacted me saying her wedding was now in October and she wanted to re-try her favourite dress. She had a new baby, lived 20 minutes away so I said I’d do a mini virtual appointment and take over three dresses – her favourite and others. I flirted with the thought of charging her £150 for my time and as a deposit but, big mistake, I didn’t. The good news is she said “Yes to the dress” but the bad news is that it wasn’t with me. What she did was choose the dress she wanted (courtesy of my concierge dress

deliveroo) and went online and bought it from a competitor at half the price. This gown, from a 2020 collection, was so new that I still hadn’t paid the invoice – I’m not sure I’ve even paid it now! I spent a fair bit of time analysing what had happened. Had I charged for that appointment and she was ‘into me’ for £150, I know that we could have worked out a deal. I naively thought that being kind to a new hormonal mother living locally during lockdown would have guaranteed me the sale. What I learned was that the rule of reciprocity is much more effective if there is some financial commitment. Who was at fault? Not her… but me for not charging. I felt well and truly ‘mugged’ and vowed that I need to either ‘Earn or Learn’. So learning from that (still slightly raw) experience I made a decision that all appointments both weekend and during the week would be chargeable at £35 at Pantiles bride and £20 at

The other way I’ve been making lemonade out of my ‘lockdown lemons’ is to further develop the new Get Savvy membership group. Most days have seen me on a Zoom call with my co-founder Christine Skilton designing and delivering new learning modules from Instagram to Ideal Customer, Pinterest to Partner 100, Mailchimp to Making Money. And our specially-created Get Savvy War Room has been dedicated to reopening with confidence. The main Get Savvy group was created with the aim of unlocking the secrets of successful bridal boutiques. It is a members’-only group that offers online training and networking accessible any time, any place anywhere – with or without a martini. Whether you’re starting up, selling up, fed up, or somewhere in between, this group could be the answer to your problems. Get Savvy is the 2020 way of working on your business rather than in your business. To find out more and get on the waiting list for when membership re-opens, go to https://boutiquepulse.com/ getsavvy-waitinglist37026079%20 %20 or email Christine or Maria on getsavvy@boutiquepulse.com

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I did it my way Emma Hartley and her team were away when news of the pandemic broke and the full implications were realised. Here’s how she coped in the months that followed

e were on a buying trip to Amsterdam when the corona virus situation started to unfold but, apart from taking a bottle of hand sanitiser with us, it was business as usual and we had a fabulous time. Little did I know that two weeks later I would be locking up my shop and saying goodbye to my staff not knowing if and when we would meet again. It felt surreal that, 44 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J U L Y / A U G U S T 2 0 2 0

after 22 years of graft, my business could potentially end this way. I had already sensed a mood change after the Amsterdam trip, as terms like ‘self- isolation’, ‘social distancing’, ‘lockdown’ and ‘R rate’ became part of everyday conversation. I decided to hope for the best whilst planning for a zombie apocalypse. We started contacting brides whose dresses had arrived and asking

them to collect and more importantly which got more sales coming in. I pay for them. I knew that if we were to was even approached by a company survive we needed money in the bank asking me to do a video about my business to be shown in schools to not hanging in a storage cupboard. It inspire children from disadvantaged was difficult dealing with heartbroken backgrounds brides whose so I felt like weddings had I held a virtual lockdown I was doing been cancelled something adding the extra sale and managed to sell 14 worthwhile. inconvenience I also painted of having to dresses donating to Cancer the shop with collect earlier Research for every sale as we the help of than planned; my hubby and however, my would do if we were open daughter and worst fear was had a massive that if we didn’t clear out. It was lovely looking back at survive the pandemic their dresses all the memories of my bridal career. would be locked in our shop. I also In fact, I think I worked harder during worried that if a designer went down lockdown than I have in years and our brides dresses would be lost. actually really enjoyed the challenge of working in a different way. Focusing on the present There was so much to worry about Dealing with suppliers in addition to the obvious concerns But it did feel very lonely being about the health of our nearest and a bridal retailer in those first few dearest. Once the initial shock had weeks. The only contact from some worn off I knew I had to fight for suppliers was emails with links to survival for my business, my team new collections. It felt weird that I and of course our brides. I couldn’t bear the thought of letting was expected to order new samples whilst having a shop full of stock I was anyone down. I have faced many unable to sell. I was still trying to get challenges throughout my years in bridal retail but this is the most difficult dresses in for brides to collect just in case the worst happened but some situation I have ever had to navigate. suppliers closed down completely However, I love my job and refuse to and many were demanding payment let a virus destroy all my hard work. up front. I set up an office in my summer Going forward I would be hoping house and was determined to make for reduced minimums, extended sure we were one of the survivors. payment plans and special deals to I realised that social media was the help and encourage retailers to start secret to our success as it was the spending on new samples. We must only way we could connect with new keep the supply chain moving and brides and keep up the morale of our need to explore ways of doing this existing brides. I had always shied without the retailers taking the brunt away from being filmed but I had no of the crisis after three months with choice but to step up and get on with no revenue. the job. I held a virtual lockdown sale and Moving on managed to sell 14 dresses donating Since reopening, I have been to Cancer Research for every sale as absolutely delighted with how busy we would do if we were open. we are. We have achieved a 100% We had a ‘locked down in your conversion rate with appointments wedding dress’ competition to give fully booked until mid-August. Yes, our brides and my team a bit of light entertainment and they loved it. I held it’s different and, as expected, brides various prize draws and filmed myself are nervous but then so are we! We have been open and honest about the showing off our hair accessories,

measures we have in place and are very aware that we can’t guarantee that everyone will be 100% safe, but let’s face it… we can’t guarantee a bride won’t be run over by a bus as she crosses the street to our boutique! As I look round at all our lovely sparkly dresses it feels like waking up from a nightmare. But I am under no illusions; I suspect it is one of those dreams where as soon as you close your eyes again the nightmare resumes. Opening our doors again is just the beginning. The battle is very much ongoing. We need to stand together as an industry and support each other through the weeks and months ahead; it is not going to be easy. We need to be resilient and prepared to adapt quickly to the ever changing environment.

E M M A’ S TO P T I P S FO R S U RV I VA L • Focus on what you can do and try not to worry about factors you have no control over. • Keep control of your cash. You need money in the bank to pay bills, wages etc, not stock hanging on your rails. • Look after your team they are your brothers in arms. • Celebrate every achievement no matter how small – first sale, first good review. These things matter now more than ever. • Get out into the great outdoors with your team – it is a fantastic way to team build and talk through any worries they may have. • Do everything you can to stay safe yourself but most of all stay strong. • We are bridal retailers. We are a determined, talented group of people. It may take a while but we will come back from this.

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Viewpoint

Sharon McPherson and her husband Stewart own the award-winning highlysuccessful Opus Couture and Opus Atelier bridal salons in West Kilbride

have been in the bridal industry since 1985, that’s 35 years, and I have never experienced anything like this before. We are all in unchartered water. Life has become strange. Life without our businesses open, even stranger. We miss our work colleagues, our teams, our suppliers, our industry, but we miss our customers even more. This unusual time has made me look at just how much we actually put into our work. Every waking moment is overtaken with problem solving, new ideas, financial analysis, staff management and stock control… and that’s not even half of it. We balance everything on a very fine line and it’s not easy. I’m quite sure I’m not alone in realising that bridal has taken over my whole life. It is true that I am passionate about all things fashion, it actually is my whole family’s business. But there is more to life, and this unusual time has proved it. The present situation has made think long and hard about how I would now like to operate within this industry. How do we recover? And I don’t just mean our businesses, but we ourselves. Our world is changing. So perhaps this is a time for our industry to change in line with it. This may be just me but, I feel bridal has always been placed just outside the main fashion industry, not far away but not quite fully embraced. However, the whole fashion industry is now

reviewing its established practices. How will all of this effect our future customer, will it even make a difference? And do we want it to, or are we happy with things as they stand? What would you like to change now we are returning to work? What do we need from this industry to sustain our future and our personal wellbeing, and how does that actually look? The rules of how we operate have been dictated to us by the customer, the industry, the supply chain. Almost everything and everyone other than us, the bridal boutique owners. I personally feel this may be a time that we can use to recover, reinvent and improve our industry as well as our own practices. Could this be a time when we initiate change? I know I have more questions than answers, but is that not how change begins?

What resonates with you? For me, right now this is a time to finish what I’ve started, be thankful for what I have, acknowledge what I have achieved, and work out how to move forward. So I’m not going to moan, complain, or just take what’s given to me from customers, staff or suppliers. I’m setting my own plan, and I’m sticking to it, for the protection and preservation of my business, my own sanity and personal wellbeing. Of course I will adhere to the current guidelines that control our lives right now, and I will live and work safely. Nothing is certain, apart from the fact that this too, will end, but in the meantime we must find our new normal. My hope is that the new normal will be a happier, less stressful, and more profitable place than that we have know in the past.

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VE NUES W ITH A VIEW Last issue, Jill Eckersley talked to wedding planners to gauge the changes they are finding in previously-made but now postponed celebrations. This time round, she’s been speaking to venues to establish the difference they have found in bookings

s yet, we have no way of knowing how Covid-19 will eventually impact on our industry. Dress designers, retailers, planners, venues, and assorted businesses from florists to photographers are still – at the time of writing – left guessing. But one thing is for sure, as we put 2020 behind us and look forward to 2021, people are still going to want to get married, and to celebrate their special day with those they love. Bridal is an industry which has

always looked ahead, and that is especially true now. We have been consulting wedding venues and asking their experts just how their bookings for the coming year are shaping up, given that many couples have been forced by lockdowns to postpone their celebrations. Are these couples staying with the plans they had made for 2020, or are they nervous about job losses and looking at a more restricted budget? If they are cutting down, what aspects of the wedding are going by the board?

Stoke Park

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And are couples who were always thinking about a 2021 date looking for a different style of wedding, perhaps a more modest one? Are popular dates – ie May to July – booking up fast or does there seem to be a lot of hesitation? Stoke Park in Buckinghamshire is a luxury five-star venue just West of London, set in 300 acres of parkland with eight ‘wedding rooms’ in a white Palladian mansion and gardens by Capability Brown. They cater for

weddings for ten guests and upward and offer civil ceremonies as well as receptions following local Church weddings. Stoke Park’s Head of Events, Hannah Adlam, is taking an extremely positive view of the venue’s prospects for 2021. “It does look as though our guests are sticking to their original wedding plans and budgets in the hope that all will be back to normal by next year,” she says. “We are also receiving a lot of enquiries, which is really encouraging. We don’t feel at the moment that the style of weddings will be very different next year, rather that our couples are wanting their dream day to be the one they had originally planned. “We haven’t seen any reduction in budgets either. As we are a five-star venue most of our couples have generous budgets and from what we have seen, they are still prepared to splash out. Dates between May and July are still the most popular, and this year, in spite of everything, we have been very busy, both with enquiries and couples who are keen to come in and have a look around to see what we have to offer.” It seems that 2021 will certainly be an interesting year to launch a brandnew wedding venue. Pan Pacific London is a striking new hotel close to Liverpool Street Station, in the heart of the City of London. The company, whose headquarters are based in Singapore, already runs luxury hotels and resorts in Asia, North America, Oceania and Europe, and specialises, they say, in “modern luxury and unsurpassed hospitality.” Claire Bishop is their Pre-Opening Weddings and Special Events Manager, and she believes that 2021 will be a standout year for weddings. She also feels that couples will not only be changing the date of their wedding but may also change the format of their special day completely. “Nuptials as we know them, much like all other events, will naturally diverge from traditional formats for the foreseeable future,” she says.

Pan Pacific London

“Trends such as virtual weddings, micro weddings, and sequel weddings – a large-scale second celebration after a smaller event the first time – will become more popular. Physical attendance at weddings will undoubtedly be less, but that doesn’t mean that the guest list for the day will be smaller, by any means. While on the ground, attendees might just be immediate family and close friends, online platforms like Zoom will give couples the opportunity to share their day with even more guests than they had originally planned!” Has Claire detected any difference in style between the weddings postponed from 2020 and those which were always planned to take place in 2021? “I wouldn’t say there has been that much difference between those original bookings and what newer

leads want and expect from us,” she says. “As with everything right now, couples are understandably much more conscious of hygiene, and ensuring the health and safety of their guests, and will be for the foreseeable future. As a venue, it’s our job to ensure we have all the measures in place needed to manage their expectations. Thinking outside the box is a must, more than ever now.” Claire also feels that wedding budgets are sure to be affected in some way. “Undoubtedly celebrations will be scaled down,” she says. “Money can be saved on elements like the venue and/or food and drink, which could be invested in other aspects of the day, like styling or decoration. However, budgets may not be affected negatively, depending on the circumstances of the couple. “For some, postponement may

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Sculpture by the Lake

have given them additional time to save and add to their existing budgets. Couples will, I think, be much more conscious of the choices they make. That need not mean cutting down, but being more mindful of how their money is being spent.” As far as bookings are concerned, Claire feels that demand will be exceptionally high for 2021, because so many weddings have had to be postponed from 2020 and many were already booked for 2021. “It may turn out to be a record year for the industry,” she says. “While the key months of May to September will always be prominent, we also envisage a number of weekday wedding requests, which have traditionally been rare. There will also be requests for the quieter months so that couples can be sure of securing the venue and suppliers they prefer.” Couples have such a huge choice of

venues these days from the traditional 200-year-old Palladian mansion of Stoke Park, through the ultra-modern metropolitan Pan Pacific London, to the unique, 26-acre Sculpture by the Lake sculpture park, set deep in the Dorset countryside, which offers a haven of peace and tranquillity for romantic weddings. Owner Simon Gudgeon says that in this year of extreme uncertainly, many couples want to keep their plans as flexible as possible, and that his company will always try to accommodate that. “Some want to roll over their welllaid wedding plans but others, we find, are proceeding with more caution,” he says. “The Covid-19 lockdown seems to have triggered a reassessment of priorities for many of us. Couples just want to share their day with the people they really love, and they are also focusing on the needs and safety of guests. We are being asked about

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downsizing weddings and moving them outside. We’re also being asked about live-streaming ceremonies for elderly or vulnerable family members who may not be able to be there. “Every wedding is different and unique to the couple but everyone is looking to understand the changes which social distancing may bring to their plans. We are coming up with a range of solutions from individual picnic boxes for elegant outdoor dining, to the possibilities of having open-sided marquees. “We do feel that weddings will look and feel very different in 2021. They will likely be far smaller and more intimate, and not just because of social distancing. The pandemic has focused minds on what really matters, and that is being with the people who are most important to you. The showy ‘Big Wedding’ will be a thing of the past, at least for a while. “We expect outdoor weddings to be more popular as open-air gatherings are thought to be safer. Our largest venue, The Retreat, has sliding doors on two sides of the building and an open-air terrace above, to take advantage of its stunning lakeside setting. Of course this means it lends itself to the requirements of the postCovid-19 wedding as well.” Three very different venues… and three very different opinions on the kind of weddings we’ll be seeing next year. But what everyone agrees on, is that weddings themselves are absolutely not going to go out of style. “People still want to celebrate – and so they should!” says Claire Bishop. “Even if traditional weddings can’t happen for the foreseeable future that doesn’t mean ceremonies can’t happen. It’s becoming increasingly common for couples to celebrate their original date with a ‘minimony’, followed by a larger celebration at a later date, and I think this is something we in the industry should encourage. For the time being, destination weddings and honeymoons will be re-thought with couples opting to localise their big day. This will help to inject money back into the industry and help us all get back on our feet!”

Time Well Spent Andrew and Rob Pearce of Creatiques have never been busier! Since bridal retailers have re-opened for business, they’ve had more yesses to more dresses than ever before

e are back... and back bigger, brighter, and better than we were before,” say the Boys. “While lockdown for many was isolating, we were so motivated that it actually did us the world of good. It made us realise that for a small business with two members of staff, we can close for an annual holiday and that we aren’t being held to ransom on the FOMO front; we have actually enjoyed time away to reevaluate and refocus on our business strategy. “We went virtual throughout lockdown. We created dream appointments for brides and sent

out a questionnaire in advance asking for all the information that we would normally gather for a ‘regular’ appointment – ideas, colours, looks and their top five favourite dresses from our collections. “We created a private Pinterest board so they could see their story and we added our suggestions of colour ideas, flowers, items that their partner might like and more and had everything ready for their virtual appointment, (VA). “The programme was a huge success with girls pre-booking the gowns they wanted to see, and we decided it was a process we’d incorporate ongoing when we opened, creating a ‘story’ of gowns in advance of a bride’s appointment. “Since welcoming brides back into the salon on 15 June we have sold to everyone from the selection they had chosen.

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TIME FOR A REVAMP Andrew and Rob didn’t wasted a minute, and used the shop closure to redesign and redecorate

“Did we miss London? Yes of course, but we had the opportunity to work with all our designers and see their virtual presentations of the new 2021 collections. This was a real eye opener. “Like many other stores we would never normally make our buying selection from images – we want to see gowns in the flesh. But these have not been normal times and we appreciate now more than ever that

if you know your designers then you know the quality of their product. “As an example, the virtual fashion shows from the team at Justin Alexander were informative, creative and extremely detailed. We were able to partmentalize our store into sections then choose from the collections being showcased exactly we were missing. It worked, and worked really well and proof is that as the new gowns have come through,

SHARING Instagram was where messages where shared of every successful sale

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we love them and know we made the best decisions. “We do love attending the key trade shows but sometime your focus shifts because you have the opportunity to see your bridal friends and colleagues. By categorising the entire shop, we were able analyse which styles were our best sellers, take out the dresses that were not even being tried on, and spend the time concentrating on creative buying. “The virtual system worked for us with many of our designers. Maggie Sottero hosted zoom meetings; Justin Alexander produced designer showcases. We felt empowered with knowledge about the new collections,

NEW ADDITIONS An occasionwear department and a new hair salon are bringing in new business

and had the material to tease and tempt brides with what was to come. “Importantly, we felt that the designers, also, came from a different perspective, and changing the way they dealt with us as clients. “There is no question, this new world we live in sits on a forwardthinking platform – who would have thought this time last year that we would have been hosting zoom parties, wearing masks and literally covering ourselves and our shops in liberal doses of Dettol spray. The pandemic has definitely made us all think outside of the box. “While we were closed, we redecorated the store, and extended the rear of the property to create what is now an ‘inner boutique’ for our brand-new mother of the bride/ groom selection. With the department stores closing in our area we are now one of the only stores in Southsea that focuses purely on this sector of the market. “We had originally planned that the redecoration programme would take place over Christmas 2020 period; lockdown simply brought the schedule forward and we have already had very positive feedback, with mums wanting to see the collections and accessories virtually. “But we didn’t stop there. We wanted to use every minute of the day getting our business ready to move into the next chapter. With the rapid growth in social media as the

did we know then that the pandemic was coming or that the builders’ merchants, plasterers, wood, workers, hair dressing wholesalers and IKEA we had ordered from would all be closed. “But once the builders were ready, deliveries were rescheduled and now, 12 weeks later, the salon is finished, and we are delighted... it looks wonderful Much time was spent trying to decide the colour scheme. We discovered wallpaper online from Zoë Glencross. Her service Looking ahead was unbelievable and three days “Going forward, it will be different to anything we had become accustomed after ordering, and thanks to her helpfulness, the wallpaper arrived – to previously. We have made under‘Bollin Bird’ in gold and deep ocean gowns to go beneath dresses before they are tried on – the concept came for a luxurious texture and touch of from thinking about skin on fabric and shimmer. We had bought mirrors, basins and salon seating from the fact that clothing will need to be Alan Howard, and incorporated a quarantined for 24 hours. combination of natural wood, gold, “As a very busy store, we were rose golds, ink blues and metallics aware of the difficulties that would into the colour scheme. result if best-selling gowns were on “A brand new website – www. a ‘do not touch’ rail. Now our under gowns are being worn throughout the thehairdresssir.co.uk – was built by @sarahbonddesign who also trying-on sessions and then placed recreated the hummingbird logo we in a laundry bin to be washed, that had drawn. The outdoor space is astro quarantine is now lifted. turfed and clients can relax in the “At the same time, we took garden whilst their colour develops. lockdown as an opportunity to “We have created a little piece of remodel our bijou independent hair London in Southsea. And now we salon that is in the grounds of our bridal store. We had already planned are looking forward to watching our business blossom.” for major building works but little key communication tool, accessed on mobile phones, we surveyed what people were looking at, and what platforms they were using. Instagram was number 1 and tik tok second. “Every day at around the same time we posted – whether it was the progress of the store, new gowns we had seen, or going ‘live’ with our hysterical virtual chats online. Yes, we were the old married couple, but we made it fun and had excellent feedback.

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M AKIN G A N I MPR ESS ION Couture designer Amy Mair took the decision during lockdown to rework her website herself and be involved in every stage of the process. The results show what dedication and determination can achieve

ike many, I have had some time to think and be productive during lockdown and some time to rest, too, but with the continuous waves of emotions and moments of feeling drained of any energy, it was

important for me to have a task and to challenge myself to adapt to this new way of life, this new ‘normal’, and use the time that I may not have had before to teach myself about all things tech and, paramount, communications.

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I wondered if I needed a new approach and a new way of reaching clients and making an impact in these uncertain times so I decided to focus on developing a brand new website myself, having control over every aspect of the build from page layouts to fonts, writing about myself, the label’s identity and our pledge to be a sustainable business, considering our fashion-conscious future in the bridal industry. I know that marketing and promotions are a pivotal part of every business but for new independent designers they are key and cannot be ignored today when it is vital that we pour our energies into building a brand story that is appealing to customers. I had to consider how I could ride this storm and have something at the end of it all that would keep my label current and recognised as a contemporary design house in the industry.

“My label has been active throughout the lockdown period as my employees have been able to work from home so I never swayed away from ensuring our brand would survive this pandemic... in fact, it has made me more determined to succeed. We have come up with solutions and proactive ways of engaging with our customers by ensuring that visuals are the focus throughout the socials and website. Our label is niche and original and we knew we could display it best with imagery, developments in the workroom, design processes and detailed production videos on our

social media platforms. The message I wanted to put across is that we use terms like ‘luxurious’ and ‘intricate’, ‘care’ and ‘time’ because we consider our ethics and ethos in the making of every wedding gown. I have also spent time studying what our brand’s voice is, in addition to the visual message the label gives out, thus focusing on every aspect of Amy Mair Couture. I fully understood the importance of underpinning our vision and telling the story of the journey of our label – that we strive to be sustainable and ethical, that we are a Welsh label with all aspects of production being fulfilled in Wales. And that we

are responsible for every stage of production from sourcing fabrics to delivering first-class service to our stockists and our brides. Our aim is to evoke emotion and even though weddings have been postponed and or delayed we can fulfil a bride’s desire to have a personal experience and a unique gown. More than anything else, we want brides to fall in love with our dresses for their ethereal and romantic qualities and value that they are something completely original, quaint and innovative. “With my influence on the website now continuous, I feel I am closer to enquiries and contacts and reaching

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both brides and businesses. I am inspired to keep offering alternatives to what is available from the traditional and conservative competitors. We have completely updated our Real Life Brides stories, and this has proven to be a very popular feature on the new site. And incorporating my own words has made a major difference, too. Our Bespoke Process area; Our Story – which tells of my history with fine art; Our Collections; As Seen On… they all come from a different perspective now... mine. And our contact details

and stockists’ listings have also taken on a new life, because I have been able to pour my own passion and experience into the equation. An added benefit is that the new site is very efficient and easy to navigate, which is vital in today’s busy society. All of this has motivated and inspired me to not let go, and to do more. I would like to start writing blogs and reaching out to customers by answering their questions, be they be about made-to-measure possibilities or the value of handmade. I know these are things worth shouting about that will impact

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on our position. So this is a journey for me that will continue and forge ahead. And it has given me huge confidence in what I can achieve to support, market and promote my brand. Newsletters are part of the plan now and will provide insights, incentives, offers, and news that is of genuine interest rather than a filler for customers’ inboxes. If you haven’t already tried to direct, manage and control your communications, take it from me, you’ll enjoy the journey and your business will benefit

J O I NI N G U P...

What The Trade Associations Are Doing For Members We asked the two key players – the RBA and BBSA – to talk us through what support measures they have had, and continue to have, in place during the pandemic and as shops slowly start to re-open THE RBA Nicola Garton, Chair The first half of 2020 has presented bridal shops with challenges they have never had to face before. It is a huge relief to be in the position to reopen our boutiques and welcome customers back through the doors, yet it is still an extremely tumultuous time as we adjust to the ‘new normal’, adapt our businesses to meet new guidelines and trade in a way we have never done before. As independent retailers, it can feel lonely and isolating at the best of times and feel that there is a lack of support; the COVID-19 crisis has only highlighted this. The RBA has always worked hard to build a supportive community for its members, a place to join together to combat issues and talk through difficult situations and this has never been so relevant as now. During the past few months, we have been offering advice on measures that may need to be enforced in our stores so that risk is minimised and all the necessary precautions are followed to ensure

the health, safety and wellbeing of employees and our customers. Every member has received a set of Health & Safety and Risk Assessment templates in relation to COVID-19 that they can tailor accordingly, as well as key information and guidelines on making redundancies – a sensitive decision for any bridal shop owner. We as an association recognise that the coming months will be rocky so we are putting plans in place to help our members further. We are planning more training seminars and videos with step-by-step guides on topics including health and safety, dealing with tricky customers who are not adhering to guidelines, dealing with negative reviews on social media, staff training and HR practices. Our Facebook closed group forum has always been a supportive network and the place to ask for advice and share concerns but has truly been a lifeline for many when our shops were shut for so long. Members have used this forum to share discount offers for PPE equipment, ask advice on furloughing staff members and how the ‘new look’

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the dress. Also, offering brides the appointments should be carried out. opportunity to invite friends ‘virtually’ Our members also have access to who are not able to attend in person is free legal advice any time they need it. With so many postponed weddings an essential tool that will make them and disgruntled, panicking brides, we feel that they are not missing out or the experience is dampened at all. must keep calm, know the law and Effective communication also navigate complaints and issues with a clear head. Having a helpline in place needs to apply to team members. With many staff still furloughed and reassures and helps our members some back on the shop floor, there decide on the next steps. is a danger of resentment-building, We recognise that with so opposition to new rules in place, and many changes in place there is an frustration at having to navigate longer increased level of anxiety, not only appointments etc. Schedule in regular for shop owners, but for our staff and catch-ups with all your team, ironing customers too. out any issues before they escalate. The RBA Executive Council Having a strong, happy workforce who have been holding regular Zoom committee meetings as we have been are going to work with you, not against you, over unable to meet in the coming person, discussing months, will how the future will We recognise that the make facing look for our stores bumps along and the importance coming months will be the road a lot of guiding our rocky so we are putting easier! members to cope As we with the changes plans in place to help our return to ahead. We are some kind of looking to offer members further normality, we more ‘mentoring’ can also turn support to stores our attention and look forward to the in need and shop visits, suggesting Harrogate Bridal Show in September. changes that could be made to We are so delighted that it is taking ensure standards are kept high. place and it will be a fantastic One of the key areas we must opportunity to catch up with our all continue to focus on is social members in the RBA lounge, hold media.Investing time and money our annual AGM and check out new where possible to ensure we have collections. We will also have our the strongest social platforms is RBA stand, explaining the incentives of utmost importance, especially and advantages to being part of the now. We have been advising our RBA and our aim is to continue to members to update their platforms recruit more members to make our regularly to keep customers in the association stronger. loop regarding the new changes in For many of our members, the place, while offering reassurance that Harrogate Bridal Show will be the they will still experience a great time first buying opportunity this year, in store and providing them with all the information they need to have the although we feel that cautious buying will be on people’s minds. While it confidence to buy. is necessary so have the strongest, Good communication is essential most desirable dresses on our shop right now and will minimise floors, there will be many financial complaints. Posting regularly, videos concerns for owners. It’s never been of how appointments are now being carried out and showing staff adhering more important to have honest conversations with our suppliers to social distancing will encourage about the road ahead, select dresses brides to book an appointment and very carefully and convey how we they are more likely to say yes to

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may not be able to invest in new collections like we would have readily done so in the past. If you are interested in becoming a member of the Retail Bridalwear Association please visit www.rbaltd.org. uk/ – Yearly membership costs £350 +VAT.

BBSA William Dicks, Chair At the time of writing, bridal retailers in England have been permitted to reopen for nearly two weeks. The feedback stores are giving is extremely encouraging, with full appointment schedules and very high conversion rates. It is as good a re-start as any of us could have hoped for. It is my sincere hope, however, that the positive thoughts of change which we all felt during the lockdown are not lost; hose plans we all had, as business owners, should not be forgotten. There are a great number of things we can and should work on together to improve in our industry. As a relatively new Chairman of the BBSA, I want to refocus our efforts on promoting independent retailers and the brands you sell. Before the Covid pandemic struck

we had started to bring together tangible ideas to do just this and I hope we can pick up where we left off now the lockdown has passed. The response of UK bridal retailers in the face of the Coronavirus pandemic has been, from a supplier’s perspective, very heartening. Despite the shocking and sudden lockdown being imposed, many retailers maintained a determined stance. Speaking from my own experience as a supplier, the vast majority of retailers tried their best to keep lines of communication open and work with suppliers to find a way through the lockdown and to prepare for the reopening of stores. It appears retailers are now falling into two camps; the fighters and the delayers. Of course all this must be caveated in the usual way – there are retailers with specific personal reasons for not reopening and they should be supported by suppliers. Broadly speaking though, the fighters were quick out of the blocks – in many cases using the lockdown to refresh their shops and prepare their staff for new, safe, ways of working. These retailers kept answering their phones and replying to emails to build up a waiting list of appointments, ready to start selling again as soon as they were permitted. The delayers are, um… still waiting, although we are not entirely sure what for. Please don’t misunderstand me. I am not referring to those in other parts of the UK who are not allowed to reopen. I am talking about those who are “waiting to see how it goes” – in other words, letting the braver retailers reopen their doors first and see if it is worthwhile. Well, it turns out it very much is worthwhile. So if you are a delayer… I suggest you don’t delay any longer. Brides are placing orders with your competitors, they don’t care if you are unsure, they are not. They want their dresses and accessories and will buy them from whomever will take their order. This is only a reflection of what has always been true – those who tackle

association. We have heard nothing. No discussion about how social distancing might work in practical terms, no discussion about our thoughts on the safety of our staff, no requests for information about the likely footfall based on our conversations with our customers. Instead I, like everyone else, receive warm and cuddly emails about how “[we are] kick-starting our promotional campaign for the show” and “shops… seem excited to meet up with suppliers and fellow shop owners”. These platitudes ignore the reality we are facing, with many retailers It is simply not good afraid or unable to travel, overseas enough to expect retailers buyers unable to commit with to carry on as normal, to quarantine measures in place – not to mention a whole industry shut invest in samples at the down with no income for the busiest same level as a year ago three months of year. This is a great example of how we must change. It is simply not good enough to expect retailers to carry on as normal, to invest in samples at the job of preparing detailed guidance same level as a year ago. In turn, it is for all bridal retailers. He has taken not reasonable for media companies advice from UKFT (UK Fashion and to expect suppliers to make the same Textile Association) and adapted it level of investment in promotional to suit the unique needs of bridal activities. retailers, while ensuring it follows UK The same challenges remain; bigGovernment rules. It can be found online and is available to all, members box retail selling off the rack; pressure to over-buy samples which do not and non-members alike at: www. provide sufficient conversion ratio bridalsuppliers.co.uk/news/view/ to make the investment profitable; coronavirus-guidance-for-bridalretailers who will not adapt to the retailers – a PDF download is also digital revolution and changing needs available from the same page. of brides. Now really is the time to On the supplier side, in the work together, as these challenges immediate term we must tackle the thorny issue of exhibitions. While this are too great for any one organisation is not an issue all suppliers will agree to tackle on their own. The BBSA intends to lead the way on on, we do need to take the time to this and as the only trade association have a proper conversation about it. welcoming both retailer and supplier I hope we can have an honest and members you are very much welcome open dialogue between ourselves to join the conversation as we look to and with our leading exhibition organiser about the best way forward. develop genuinely innovative ways to promote independent retailers selling Unfortunately, at the current time independent designer dresses and there has been no consultation with accessories. suppliers or supplier associations If a trade association isn’t there to which is very disappointing. I speak promote the products we are selling both as a Director of one the largest and defend the unique qualities of our exhibitors (by floor space) and as the industry, then what is the point? Chairman of the only supplier trade challenges head-on perform better; those who “wait and see” or simply expect to carry on without adapting to their changing environment, fall behind. The best suppliers, the majority of whom are members of the BBSA, most definitely fall into the camp of fighters and are extremely keen to support retailers through the reopening process. Great thanks must go to Martin Jenkins, who has done a remarkable

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HEADSTART Designer Rachel Trevor Morgan has been creating stunningly beautiful headdresses for 30 years and is known for her soft, romantic handwriting that always partners the bride’s choice of dress

nspiration comes from many places,” says Rachel Trevor Morgan, who specialises in effortlessly glamorous headwear that is the perfect finishing touch. “A bouquet of fabulous flowers, a vintage print, the golden age of couture – all of these shape my design direction. Silk flowers are a firm favourite be they the slightly stiffer silk taffeta classic roses or soft organza and habotai for a romantic

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edge. Silks can be coloured to match any tone. If a bride is going for a shell pink or blush, the petals can be dyed and shaded paler and deeper to get a ‘real’ flower vibe. “We also use lots of feathers. Always flattering, they add movement and line and work perfectly with a stiff zibeline dress as well as an intricate lace gown. Our goose feather raised Alice band is a big statement for a daring bride but for the not-so-brave

our wide hackle feather crescent gives a more subdued edge.” And what about veils? “We love birdcage veils,” says Rachel. “They are full of romance and allure. On pillboxes, headed bands, with flowers, they add a light touch of drama. We love tulle too, wrapped around roses for romance and made into short integrated veils for a fun playful look.” From timeless classics to avant garde statement-making contemporary pieces, this is a collection that cannot fail to delight.

With a nod to vintage fashions, the lace caplet and lily of valley pieces hark back to a romantic era of days gone by, all with a modern twist, while high halo headbands – either feathered or strewn with organza petals – introduce a very different personality. Shapes are hand-blocked and flowers expertly dyed, cut and shaped by hand. Fabrics include fine silks, lace and tulle with embellishments of hand-beading and crystals; each piece is tailored to a bride’s own

vision which means that special commissions are undertaken. The collection, with retail prices from £480 to £980, is available to order from the St James showroom in London. You can see the whole collection at racheltrevormorgan.com – for more information email info@ racheltrevormorgan.com or call +44 (0)207 839 8927 Photography here by Catherine Harbour; dresses Stewart Parvin

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EU R O P EA N BRIDA L WE E K D EC LA RE D A TR I U M P H Within hours of opening up the doors at Messe Essen to the very first live international bridal exhibition of 2020, exhibitors and show visitors alike were in celebratory moods

or the past four months the bridal industry, as so many others, stagnated during lockdown. Designers were unable to see their customers and present their collections, retailers were forced to roll down the shutters on business, and brides have had no option other than to postpone their wedding date. With shows across the world on hold and then cancelled, the outlook has been grim. Many big brands went ‘virtual’, capturing their ranges on

film and using social media platforms to keep their name alive. Smaller labels, without substantial marketing budgets, struggled to stay in contact with their customers and their suppliers. And retailers everywhere have lived in fear for the future of their business. All that changed when European Bridal Week launched its three-day show in Essen at the beginning of July, many months later than originally planned. Showcasing more than 380 labels – international brands included Justin Alexander, Morilee, Demetrios, Allure Bridals, Ellis Bridals, Kenneth Winston, Eddy K, Herve Paris, Madi Lane, Cymbeline, Jarice and Wilvorst – the event attracted over 2,000 attendees – a far greater number than anticipated and only 28% down on the previous year’s visitor figures. European Bridal Week saw retailers approaching the buying opportunities with a new-found enthusiasm: “It is amazing how quickly you can put the problems of recent months behind

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you,” said one bridal shop owner from Munich. “Being here is dazzling. Seeing all things new is inspiring. Meeting colleagues and friends you have not had dealings with for an entire season is exhilarating. It’s like coming out of the grey and into the sparkle. “The restrictions that have necessarily been applied to ensure everyone’s safety are something we are already used to, so it’s no big deal and they certainly do not remove the sheer joy of feeling that you are back in business.” The exuberant atmosphere at the show says so much about the bridal industry itself and its ability to turn negatives to positives and pessimism to optimism and to move on to the next stage of its development. This is encouraged in no small way by renewed enthusiasm from brides themselves who now want to find their dream dress. The buzzword now is 2021 – expected to be a great year for sales; this show has set the pace.

ATTRACTING RETAILERS The three-day show pulled in more visitors than originally expected... over 2,000

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F ROM BRIDAL TO PE RS O NAL PROT ECT IV E EQ U IP M E NT ( P P E) are available for purchase now and ready to ship from our US and UK warehouses.” What about colours? “We have both blue and white masks available for purchase,” says Martine. “Blue masks are traditionally used in medical settings, but since we are a bridal company at heart, we wanted to provide a white option as well.” Supporting our Stores The Harris’s founded Verasano separately to their bridal business, so it would not impact its customer base or bridal operations in any way. The company is Verasano, and we set it t the end of the day, our up to source and sell disposable face dedicated sales and support teams mission is to create a at Essense continue to work around masks and other PPE to help keep safer and better world for our communities and brides safe. The the clock to innovate, ideate, design our loved ones. It’s our and plan for the future of bridal with name is inspired by the Latin words, global responsibility to leverage vera meaning true and sano meaning the success of the Essense network of our expertise, our supply chain and stockists in mind. health. resources in a new and innovative As stockists start to get back to way to do just that,” explains Martine. business, each of the Essense From dresses to masks “Our journey in the apparel and retailers has been sent a gift of 100 global sourcing business began more “What qualifies us to source PPE materials are the strong relationships Verasano disposable face masks than 20 years ago when we started to help keep staff and brides safe Essense of Australia, a wedding dress we’ve built with our reputable and comfortable during their bridal factories across the world. This, design and wholesale company. coupled with our sophisticated supply experience. Since our inception, we have never chain and quality control measures, missed a bride’s wedding due to our Store re-opening resources sophisticated and experienced supply allows us to procure millions of “To further support our retailers in medical grade masks and other chain and logistics experts. their reopening efforts, we have PPE. “Just like our bridal business, “With the onset of the COVID created an exclusive library of Verasano offers quality, reliable and pandemic, we wanted to do our part certified product that has undergone resources and checklists to help them to make an immediate impact within prepare for, and adjust to, the ‘new’ stringent testing by a third-party our communities. We recognised bridal experience,” explains Martine. quality control company. Our we were in a unique position with products meet a range of international “These are designed to help staff feel our proven expertise to help create Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) standards and regulations and, unlike supported and comfortable working many other suppliers, our face masks in this new environment while also and launched a new company. That

Award winning design house Essense of Australia, has some pretty fabulous brands in its portfolio, and an enviable reputation for five-star service. Now the company, under the direction of founders Wayne and Martine Harris, has added another string to its bow and it is one that is helping deal with the impact of the pandemic. We talked to Martine about Verasano

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giving brides the confidence that their experience will still be fun and safe.“ Sample topics include: Setting your store and staff up for success 1. Operational tasks to prepare for reopening 2. Store cleaning and sanitation guidelines 3. General team safety guidelines 4. Prioritising appointment types and scheduling considerations 5. Situational questions/team training Modifying your in-store experience 1. Bride communication and sample scripting 2. Bride experience and safety guidelines 3. New procedures for measuring

the United States who volunteer their time and voice to make a difference in the fight against racial A global family injustice. As Martine explains, the Essense • 2,000 masks to support the Migrant passion goes beyond bridal. “We Education Programme in Southeast have nearly 350 employees across Colorado who help rural areas the globe and believe we must do our disproportionately impacted by part as responsible global citizens to COVID secure supplies to protect take care of the communities where the children and families in their we live and work. community. “To show our support for the changemakers in our communities, we have What’s Next donated thousands of masks to “We are working directly with the those in need, including some of the medical community and public safety following organisations: organisations to determine other • 10,000 masks to Heart to Heart potential PPE needs, beyond masks, International, a humanitarian organization dedicated to improving that will be offered at a later date.” access to health care during times Visit verasano.co.uk/ for more of crisis. information and to order • 50,000 masks to protesters across 4. Touchless payments

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BOLD, BRAVE AND BRILLI ANT It is 18 years since Olga Yermoloff launched Olvis to a world of fashion-forward women who wanted to dress to be noticed. Hers is a look that never stands still, never relies on past success and always breaks through accepted barriers. Christine Marchant is now representing the brand in the UK

ack in 2002, in Amsterdam, designer Olga Yermoloff had one clear vision – a desire to create a luxury fashion label with a special and distinct personality that used feminine French lace with its own unique features. Now unique is a much over-used word – it means one of a kind, and only one – but in Olvi’s chosen fabric that would identify the brand right from the start, it is an accurate description. What makes this lace outstanding, and able the meet the one-of-a-kind description, is the flower patterning

within the design and the stretch quality that smooths and sculpts the body so that everything dress fits like a glove. Right from the early days, the flower pattern in the lace, the stretch capabilities and of course the extraordinary designs, put Olvi on the fashion-forward map. Today, the label offers over 100 (yes, 100) lace colours, the addition of scatterings of Swarovski crystals and, because the company owns its own factories, the possibility of design changes. Sizes range from UK 6 to 24, but that stretch

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element offers leeway – and often a size smaller than usual will provide the perfect fit, and the right degree of comfort. There are around 80 new designs in the latest collection, six new lace colours and two sensation prints in subtle darker shades and a blend of military green tones, mauve and light pinks combined with grey and brown. And white, of course, is the bold bridal favourite. Contact Christine to find out more at Info@olvis.co.uk

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“Don’t laugh. All that talk about increased birth rates! Well we are contributing to that figure now and I am due early next year! I’d like to get married before then, but don’t want to make any plans yet, especially re the frock as I have no idea what size I might be! I will start looking online soon to see what’s available.”

Out of the Mouths of (Bridal) Babes... Unsurprisingly, the current topic is what style of wedding will be first choice in 2021 and if there are changes to original plans “Right now, the traditional ballgown (that my mother loves) just doesn’t seem appropriate for a downscaled wedding but a boho number (which I love) certainly is. I had a fairly healthy budget

for the dress and will probably spend less than half of that now and the savings will go towards my honeymoon wardrobe – of course that’s when a honeymoon will be allowed.”

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‘Okay, so it took a good while to get over the shock of my dream day vanishing into thin air, but I suppose there have been so many changes in our lives one has to adapt accordingly. Not seeing my fiancé for a good few months has been really hard but with daily skype and zoom sessions I actually feel we have got closer and I have certainly struck up a real relationship with my future in-laws that I didn’t have before. We have rescheduled our wedding for October 2021 – lockdown taught me to be patient – and right now we are thinking small. But I will have my dream dress, whether we end up just with us, and guests on a big screen, or manage to have a proper party.”

“We decided that outdoors was what we wanted now, and we’re looking online to see what is available a

“We had been planning a real splash, with friends and family from abroad joining us, and had saved seriously for almost two years. After much discussion in recent months we have decided to use the money earmarked – and use it all! That may sound extravagant or crazy to others but I want to remember my wedding day as being the best ever. If that means we end up in the most expensive hotel

year from now. It will be

having dinner with the immediate family, so be it. I will not

low-key and good fun,

regret the decision. My dress? My thinking has changed. I don’t want traditional any more, I want a touch of slinky

rather than anything

Hollywood glamour.”

formal, as previously planned. I already had my dress, bought off the rail in a local bridal shop sale, but I have spoken to the shop owner and a little later her alterations lady might make some changes so the dress is more casual.” “This whole lockdown thing has changed my thinking and, I guess, my priorities. That coupled with the possibility of one of us losing our jobs, means we have had to take a long, hard look at what will be possible. We haven’t re-scheduled our venue booking – planned for August – we

cancelled it completely a good few months ago, and I have a credit note from the shop I had ordered my dress from. I think we will make decisions in the late autumn about the when and where for 2021. I am not sad… well I am a bit… I know I have to get on with it and make life as easy as possible.” J U L Y / A U G U S T 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 69

Looking Gorgeous

Welcome to the Wedding Trader showroom! Whether you have done your seasonal buying virtually, or are waiting for the next trade event, here’s our first big round up of the dresses destined to be the new best sellers...

Donna Salado

Style: Trinity Fabric: Beaded lace Special features: Boho, floaty skirt E: donna@donnasalado.com W: www.donnasalado.com

Alan Hannah

Style: Renata Fabric: Silk with hand beading Special features: Delicate pink stones E: alan@alanhannah.co.uk W: www.alanhannah.co.uk

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Martina Liana

Style: 1175 Fabric: French lace Special features: Off the shoulder; semi-sheer bodice E: Megb@essensedesigns.com W: www. essensedesigns.com

Randy Fenoli Bridal

Style: Bernadette Fabric: Crepe and lace Special features: Available without sleeves E: info@randyfenolibridal.eu W: www.randyfenoli.com

La Sposa

Style: Becca Fabric: Margot crepe Special features: Delicately crafted curly sleeves E: rmiller@pronovias.es W: www. sanpatrick.com

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Paloma Blanca

Style: 974904 Fabric: Organdy, Paloma Lace Special features: Horsehair edging at hem E: marie@palomablanca.com W: www.palomablanca.com

Special Day European Collection

Style: E20400 Fabric: Crepe Special features: Plunging back with pearl beading E: info@specialday-ireland.com W: www.specialday-ireland.com

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Justin Alexander Signature Style: Caldera

Fabric: Chiffon and crepe Special features: Detachable train E: info-eu@justinalexander.com W: www.justinalexander.com

Mark Lesley

Style: 7432 Fabric: Satin Special features: Beaded bodice E: info@marklesley.co.uk W: www.marklesley.com

Sottero And Midgley

Style: Elias Fabric: Beaded lace over tulle Special features: Lined with shapewear E: contactus@maggiesottero.com W: www.maggiesottero.com/sottero-and-midgley

Allure Bridals

Style: 9758 Fabric: English net, lace Special features: Iridescent beadwork with lace appliqués E: info@allurebridals.com W: www.allurebridals.com

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Herve Paris

Style: Vendome Fabric: Crepe Special features: Bell sleeves E: info@herveparis.com W: www.herveparis.com

Anna Georgina Style: Limia

Fabric: Japanese Mikado Special features: Cheeky skirt split E: info@annageorgina.co.za W: www.annageorgina.co.za

Dando London

Style: Peru/8736 Fabric: Crepe Special features: Detachable Flowing Cape E: sales@dandolondon.com W: www.dandolondon.com

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Phoenix Gowns

Style: PH0070 Fabric: New fabric, a twist on mikado Special features: Circular skirt, optional overlay sparkle skirt E: info@phoenixgowns.co.uk W: www.phoenixgowns.co.uk

Nicole

Style: NI12152 Fabric: Glitter Tulle with beads Special features: Balloon sleeves E: rmiller@pronovias.es W: nicolespose.it.com

Ronald Joyce

Style: Diva / 96555 Fabric: Lace and crepe Special features: Lace cut-out train E: enquiries@ronaldjoyce.com W: www.ronaldjoyce.com

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Adore by Justin Alexander

Style: 911105 Fabric: Crepe and lace Special features: Waist cut-outs E: info-eu@justinalexander.com W: www.justinalexander.com

Ladybird Transparent

Style: 521055 Fabric: Chiffon and lace Special features: Subtle see-through bodice, zip back E: richard.lill@lionheartportfolio.com W: www.ladybird.nl

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Maggie Sottero

Style: Caldera Fabric: Chiffon and crepe Special features: Detachable train E: info-eu@justinalexander.com W: www.justinalexander.com

Lillian West

Style: 66129 Fabric: Lace and tulle Special features: Exposed boning, lined in shapewear E: info-eu@justinalexander.com W: www.justinalexander.com

Essense

Style: 3080 Fabric: Crepe Special features: Sheer back, boning detail E: Megb@essensedesigns.com W: www.essensedesigns.com

Morilee

Style: Alessandra 2193 Fabric: Tulle, Chantilly lace Special features: Crystal beaded embroidery E: ukmarketing@morilee.com W: www.morilee.co.uk

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Elbeth Gillis

Style: Jessica Fabric: Embrodered sequinned tulle Special features: Boning on show E: info@elbethgillis.com W: www.elbethgillis.com

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Modeca

Style: Kimberley Fabric: Tulle and lace Special features: Shinethrough floral lace E: info@modeca.com W: www.modeca.com

Sincerity

Style: Al44212 Fabric: Lace and satin Special features: Removable ‘Jacket’ over sweetheart neckline E: info-eu@justinalexander.com W: www.justinalexander.com

Libelle Bridal

Style: Martello Fabric: Lace and tulle Special features: Lace appliqués, spaghetti straps E: info@libellebridal.com W: www.libellebridal.com

Mikaella Bridal

Style: 2308 Fabric: Crepe and organza Special features: Pockets in skirt, 4” horsehair on hem E: marie@palomablanca.com W: www.mikaellabridal.com

Madi Lane Bridal

Style: Marlo Fabric: Crepe Special features: One shoulder, amazing back E: eu@madilane.com W: www.madilane.com

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Eliza Jane Howell

Style: Yves overdress and Jane chemise Fabric: Hand beaded French net Special features: Beading on overdress inspired by a dress in the Dior Exhibition at the V&A . Chemise in jersey or silky satin. E: andrea@elizajanehowell.com W: www.elizajanehowell.com

Pure White By Lily

Style: 08-4181-CR Fabric: Organdy Special features: Swirling skirt with extra width E: b2b@lilly.eu W: www.lilly.eu

Amare Couture

Style: Elsa Fabric: Tulle with beading and embroidery Special features: Royal-length train E: marketing@casablancabridal.com W: www.amarecouture.com

Brighton Belle

Style: Mara Fabric: Flocked spotted tulle, tulle and satin Special features: Inspired by 40’s Dior E: wendy@truebride.co.uk W: truebride.co.uk 80 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J U L Y / A U G U S T 2 0 2 0

Beloved By Casablanca Bridal

Style: Asher Fabric: Lace, tulle, stretch chiffon Special features: Sequins, cut-out hem E: marketing@casablancabridal.com W: www.belovedycasablancabridal.com

Beautiful Bride Plus Style: B20109

Fabric: Beaded lace, tulle Special features: Lace hem and train E: info@specialday-ireland.com W: www.specialday-ireland.com

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The White One

Style: Romulea Fabric: Lace and tulle Special features: Keyhole detail, soft tulle godets E: rmiller@pronovias.es W: www.whiteonebridal.com

Diamonds By Lilly

Style: 08-4174 Fabric: Lace, tulle Special features: Pearl beading, semi-transparent top E: b2b@lilly.eu W: www.lilly.eu

True Bride

Style: Goldie, W380 Fabric: Tulle, lace appliqués Special features: Sequins, pearls and bugle beads, circular skirt E: wendy@truebride.co.uk W: truebride.co.uk

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Jennifer Wren Bridal Style: JW9908

Fabric: Lace and tulle Special feature: Hand-beaded belt, illusion lace back, lace motifs at the hem E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk W: www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Romantica of Devon Style: Aileen

Fabric: Lace and tulle Special features: Plunge neckline, illusion lace sleeves E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk W: www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

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STEPHEN BISHOP Tailor-made choices could well be for darker colours and heavier fabrics

Post pandemic menswear The menswear industry shares the view that 2021 will be a good year, although grooms choices may be different because of seasonal conditions and style of weddings. Dominic Bliss reports

dam McGovern and Eather Quinlan, an engaged couple from New Jersey, had been hoping for a big wedding this year, with plenty of friends and family in attendance. Then Covid-19 struck, scuppering their plans entirely. Unlike most couples, though, they weren’t willing to wait for the pandemic to pass before they got hitched. “We decided that, since we had no idea when the actual, traditional ceremony would take place, there was no time like the present,” said Quinlan. Their solution? An online marriage. McGovern applied to the Governor

of New Jersey and received special permission for him and his fiancée to be married by local officials via the video-conference platform Zoom. On 20 May 20, with the couple at their home and the town mayor a few miles away in his office, the knot was tied. Unusual times call for unusual solutions. Just like every other type of social gathering in the UK, weddings are having to adapt enormously to the pandemic. From 4 July in England, weddings with up to 30 guests were permitted. In Northern Ireland, outdoor weddings with up to ten people are allowed. Restrictions

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are tighter in Wales while now in Scotland, up to 15 people from five different households cn attend an outdoor wedding. What does all this mean for men’s wedding wear? Will post-pandemic weddings have an effect on the suits that grooms, best men and their ushers select for the big day? A move from lightweight fabrics Wedding logistics are sure to impact. Since venues were closed for all of spring and the start of summer, there will be extra demand for the rest of the year. With more autumn

TORRE Narrow cuts and coordinating accessories make the statement here

and winter weddings on the cards, and foreign weddings increasingly unlikely because of travel restrictions, grooms might opt for darker suit colours, or shy away from the very lightweight fabrics. Stephen Bishop runs a successful showroom in the Surrey town of Woking, offering suit tailoring, retail and hire. “There is no doubt the rescheduling of weddings means many more winter or off-peak weddings which will definitely change the type of suits we make for people,” he says. “Suits will be more winter weight or tweedy than is logical for summer weddings, and no doubt colour schemes of entire weddings will change to reflect the season.” Since the coronavirus is less infectious in the open air, there will be many more wedding receptions

Sales could win over hire staged outside. Could this result in Of course, smaller weddings equate less formal dress all round? After to cheaper weddings, which means all, while morning suits look perfect grooms may have more cash to splash in a village church, they are hardly on their wedding suits. And after designed for muddy back gardens. three months of lounging about the Retailers should think about inhouse in T-shirts store social distancing. Suits will be more winter weight and tracksuit bottoms, they will Fearful of or tweedy than is logical for be keen to look infection, sartorially sharp. grooms and summer weddings, and no Bishop other male believes that members of doubt colour schemes will smaller, lowerthe party will change to reflect the season budget weddings certainly be could alter the reluctant to spend hours being suited up in stuffy dynamic of suit hire versus suit retail. fitting rooms. Might this have an effect During normal years he often sells a on the industry’s usual hire-buy ratio? suit to the groom, while hiring suits No groom with any self-respect would to the same groom’s best man and buy his suit online, but he might prefer ushers. But with less money spent to visit a retailer with more shop space on stag parties and receptions, he suspects he might sell two suits to and better ventilation.

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style, plus drainpipe sleeves. The trousers are plain-fronted with slimline legs and side adjusters. Another major label is Torre, from Portugal, run in the UK by Jorge Nuno Correia. He sees blue, grey and, to a lesser extent, burgundy as the most prominent colours across all his collections, with slim jackets remaining popular. Both Correia and Roberts agree that, with much of the 2020 wedding season already lost, retailers would be wise to focus their attention on preparing for a what is increasingly looking like a bumper 2021 season. They have a point: according to a survey by the wedding planner website Hitched, 44 per cent of British couples who have postponed their weddings this year have rescheduled them for 2021. Prepare for the busy time “2021 already looks to be a huge year, but our retailers have to have the cashflow to get there,” Roberts stresses. “With the government furlough scheme, grants, loans and hopefully some autumn weddings to generate cash, it will still be tough. However, being a glass-half-full person, I believe we will make it to 2021 together and all reap the rewards. Positivity, positivity, positivity.” It’s possible that, across the fashion trade in general, there will be a postpandemic bounce; in the short-term, WILVORST at least. But all the positivity in the Classical blues and greys world isn’t going to stave off the plus greens and deep reds major economic recession that is just are the shades of choice around the corner. All retailers must be prepared for a clientele with less disposable income. It’s well known that, during tough each wedding party: one to the groom Andy Roberts is the UK representative economic times, men eschew more for Wilvorst Herrenmoden GMBH, and another to the best man. adventurous styles and find comfort “From a suit company perspective, one of Europe’s largest wedding suit wholesalers. He says that for wedding in traditional, tried and tested fashion. if we sell more suits mixed with When it comes to wedding wear, this suits, his main focus will “continue less hire, ironically we may be must be good news for the classic to be blues and greys in pure wool more profitable due to hire being morning suit. lightweight flannel fabric”, although very labour intensive and costly to Andy Roberts at Wilvorst certainly he is seeing green and deep red suits maintain,” he adds. thinks so. “I am pleased to say classic for the more adventurous grooms. tails still have a following,” he says. For their standard suits, Wilvorst Looking good “There is still no style to compare to offer two-button, peak-lapel jackets So, now that lockdown has been an elegant, timeless tailcoat.” with an extra ticket pocket in a jetted lifted, what suit styles are on offer?

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Getting Real Chris Partridge talks us through the latest technology developed for the fashion industry that works for bridal and the newest musthave gadgets and gizmos

he fashion trade is turning to the latest augmented reality technology to provide a better shopping experience and minimise the added costs imposed by hygiene regulations. Augmented reality is the merging of pictures of the real world with computer-generated graphics, so a bride can see herself pose in a gown she is interested in, experiment with colours and styles and even adjust the lighting to get exactly the effect she wants. All without having to go into the fitting room, strip off and get herself into the real thing. The pictures can be displayed on a variety of screens, such as a laptop, but tablets or smartphones are popular because they are so easy to use. For retailers, however, the device with the greatest potential is

the magic mirror. These look and act like regular mirrors, but have a built-in camera so they can display live video images of the bride. Magic mirrors come in many sizes, from devices that stand on the makeup table to help women experiment with cosmetic schemes to full-length mirrors for trying on clothes. Mirrors such as the HiMirror are touch screens so the user can ‘apply’ makeup as she would in real life, but the distance to a full length mirror makes touch screens impractical as well as expensive, so many systems use smartphones to control the images on the screen. The problem of getting an accurate size without using a tape measure is tackled by systems such as Sizebay which use artificial intelligence to estimate a shopper’s measurements from just three bits of information – height, weight and age, claiming a 98% accuracy when recommending a dress size. Body scanners come it two types: one uses standard cameras such as in smartphones or Microsoft’s Kinect sensor originally designed for gaming; others being specialist scanners based on lasers or millimetre wave technology (effectively radar). Data from the body scanner is used to create an avatar of the bride which can be ‘dressed’ with any of the gowns in stock. Some systems allow side-by-side comparisons and the addition of accessories or changes to the gown itself. Magic mirrors are not yet at the position where a bride can make a final decision without trying on the gown herself, and they do not guarantee a perfect fit first time, but they at the least enable the bride

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to identify the no-hopers without touching them, saving the retailer the expense of washing every reject. The technology is not cheap but can be a big draw for sophisticated shoppers who are now very conversant with buying online and regard digital assistance as a benefit rather than a challenge.

TECH NEWS 5G phone networks are finally arriving in our major cities, bringing broadband to your mobile phone, making it a serious business tool. Smartphone makers are launching new 5G models at all price points. The Sony Xperia 1 II weighs in at the eye-watering end, at over £1,000 simfree, but it is an outstanding phone with a serious camera and a wide screen that makes watching video or playing games just like the TV. That wide screen does make the unit feel tall and thin in the hand, but many people will find that more comfortable to hold. The camera is based on Sony’s a9 professional camera, and offers lots of professional features such as continuous autofocus and autoexposure, making for top quality video. The three main camera lenses give ultra wide angle and telephoto capabilities. The app provides lots of manual settings for those who want total creative control – ideal for creating content for the web and brochures. If you want 5G but regard a grand as too much to pay, the Motorola Moto G 5G Plus costs just £300. It doesn’t have the Sony’s premium design but it looks good and sports four lenses in its forward facing camera – wide angle, a 48 megapixel main camera, a macro lens for close-ups and a depth sensor. Unusually, it also has two selfie cameras, one for regular self portraits and the other wide angle for groups. A very capable phone for not much money. Now the world works from home, laptops are selling briskly again,

but currently the main interest is in hybrids – laptops with screens that fold right round so you can use them like a tablet for ease of use on the move. And, of course, you can pay as much or (almost) as little as you like. At the upper end, at £1,800 comes the new HP Spectre x360 13. Its main selling point is the sparkling 13in amoled screen which makes watching videos a huge pleasure. At the budget end, the Acer Chromebook Spin 311 costs just £230. The screen is only 11in, but that makes the unit compact and ideal for travel: it is robust, with a Gorilla glass screen. You do have to accept the limitations of Chrome OS, but these are now far fewer than they used to be (working offline is not a problem) and the ability to install Android apps brings a new flexibility. One of the major annoyances of modern life is running out of charge on your phone while out and about, so £20 is not a lot for peace of mind on that front. The new Belkin Pocket Power 10K is a spare battery with enough juice to recharge the average phone three times while being light and compact enough to pop in your

BELKIN POCKET POWER 10K

Zeekit is one of the tech companies which is making headway having convinced some major brands to give it a try including ASOS, Macys & Walmart.

bag or pocket without noticing too much. One of the commonest touch points is a person’s phone, so regular sanitising is a must, which is exactly what the UV Sanitizer from Invisible Shield aims to do. Just place the phone inside, close the lid and it is

bathed in UV light for a few minutes to blitz all those pesky viruses and other microbes, including any hiding in nooks and crannies. You can also use it on your keys, remotes and other small objects. It is powered by a USB-C cable so it is eminently portable. It costs £45.

ACER CHROMEBOOK SPIN 311

MOTOROLA MOTO G 5G

SONY XPERIA 1II HP SCEPTRE X360 13 INVISIBLE SHIELD

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The right equation As every retailer has discovered since opening up their doors, needs, wants and musts are very different today. That means looking at delivering the right training, says Helena Cotter

s you prepare for your return to work, how can you ensure your team are motivated, enthusiastic and ready for the challenges ahead? Dynamics will inevitably have changed; there will undoubtedly be an air of nervousness and trepidation for everyone. It’s a bit of an unknown how things will go in the retail industry generally from here. How you choose to run your business now will probably have to be different. It will take time for your team to get into their new groove. On the upside, it can be a hugely exciting time too, full of fabulous opportunity. A new, fresh approach is going to be needed to move your business forward along that path to success. Let’s discover how you can help your hard-working team pick up where they left off, and continue to deliver the very best that independent bridal retail has to offer.

The back-to-work must-haves of employee Training Programmes in the current climate – and for the ongoing future are: ✥ How to run appointments given restrictions which are in place. ✥ Cleanliness of the business. Fortunately, bridal retail is already a very clean environment. However, there will be areas, objects, surfaces, furnishings, electrical equipment, etc which will require extra special cleaning/sterilising after every appointment. Including bridal gowns where possible. ✥ Sales training. Ensure your team are equipped with all the knowledge they need to help you hit the ground running. Every appointment counts – it could mean the difference between success and failure of the business. ✥ Customer service and care. ✥ Learning about any new computer systems and techniques. ✥ Updating your business procedures/practices. ✥ SM and websites. ✥ Product knowledge. ✥ Industry knowledge. ✥ Competitor knowledge. ✥ Admin skills. ✥ Take a fresh look at, and overview of, job expectations and performance skills required. ✥ Ensure each member of staff understands their position within your company and how it fits within the overall structure of your business. ✥ Have everyone in your business communicate with each other. This will help deliver the same message to your customers and suppliers. ✥ Tailor training to individual and group needs. Ask staff members in

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turn which skills they would like to develop. This will vary from person to person. ✥ Work with your team to discover areas that may need improvement in the overall scheme of things. ✥ Organise training needs assessments. ✥ Hold regular meetings to ensure you are all on the same page and working towards the same, clear business goals. ✥ This will be the ideal time to reorganise; re-structure your business model with any ideas and plans you had prior to closing, and may not have been able to complete. The pitfalls of not investing in your team A business that doesn’t invest in its staff will happily coast along. It can, though, become stagnant and stuck in its ways. This will impact a business financially – and affect its reputation. Whilst businesses who do invest; who recognise the value of continued staff development, will thrive and grow to become the new market leaders. Training isn’t just important to any company: it is vital We know bridal retail is a tough, fastmoving industry; it does not stand still, and that in order to get ahead, you need to plan ahead. Ongoing training gives you the ideal opportunity to expand the knowledge base of all your employees. The ROI you will experience from training and development of your employees makes it 100% essential, and obvious in any healthy business environment.

TEAM SPIRIT Communication with you co-workers is vital in the new chapter of retail

definitely want to buy from welltrained staff. It will be an absolute pleasure for them to find their dream gown with you. Employees who are confident and competent will help your business improve and become a force to be reckoned with in the industry. So, if you want to have the edge and keep it – it’s crucial to have your staff firing on all cylinders. Learning on the job This is particularly important as in Utilise your time well. Focus on the basics first because building from the recent weeks during which we have foundations upwards will help provide not been able to be at work. Old habits will creep back in. structure, vision and clarity for you and your staff. Enhanced perspectives Any investments in training that you Improved performance as a business owner make, shows It’s clear that a person who receives employees they are valued. the necessary and required Being known for this in the wider training to carry out their duties industry will create a feeling of and responsibilities is more able to belonging and pride. It is also a perform successfully in their job. perfect advertisement if you are Once individual responsibilities looking to take on new staff members. are confirmed and made concrete, They will appreciate how forward they will feel more confident in their thinking you are. role. Your customers will pick up on Your company will be THE place this and it will make for a mutually people want to work, be part of, and beneficial encounter. help to succeed. Customers want to buy, and they Quality, variety and regularity are the keys to employee training, and satisfaction. Investing in them will pay not only financial dividends, but make for a harmonious, effective and efficient working environment. Most of the above training I have mentioned in this article can be integrated into a working day.

Finally... ✥ Keep learning and development at the top of your agenda. When you have good days or weeks, don’t rest on your laurels. There will always be someone nipping at your heels. ✥ Keep up to speed with what is going on in the industry – and what your customers are looking for. Always think about your next Wow factor. Last week’s or month’s offers etc. won’t be relevant next week. ✥ A well-oiled, seamless shopping experience with an enthusiastic, trained, professional team is going to help propel your business to dizzy new heights. ✥ Success breeds success as the saying goes. The more you practice and learn, the better you will become, and the easier it will be. ✥ From the beginning when I opened my own company, I always maintained that we should all aim to be the market leader, not the follower. Helena Cotter E: info@helenacotter.co.uk Instagram: hccoaching Twitter: @HCSalesTraining

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Wedding Cancellation... W HO IS EN T IT L E D TO W H AT

What should businesses do if a wedding has been cancelled or postponed? Emma Ward, partner and solicitor in Nelsons’ dispute resolution team, explains the options

ith large weddings no longer able to take place across the UK as a result of the

coronavirus pandemic, thousands of venues and suppliers are losing out on business at what has always been one of the most lucrative times of the year. Since lockdown measures were introduced on 23 March, according to a study by wedding planning app Bridebook an estimated 64% of weddings globally have been forced to cancel or postpone, leaving many businesses wondering what they should be doing if this affected them and work they were contarcted too carry out.. On Tuesday, 23 June, the

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government announced that wedding services for up to 30 people will be allowed to take place from 4 July, providing social distancing guidelines are adhered to. “While there is a glimmer of hope on the horizon, the question remains as to what businesses in the wedding industry can do when faced with a slew of cancelled events and requests for postponement or cancellation,” says solicitor Emma Ward. “The changes announced by the government apply only to wedding ceremonies, with large wedding receptions or parties remaining prohibited. Receptions and parties will only be able to take place with a maximum of six people from different households (in which case, the celebrations will need to take place outdoors and with social distancing), or with no more than two households (in which case the party can be indoors or outdoors but again, social distancing will need to be observed). “According to wedding website Hitched, the wedding industry is worth in excess of £10 billion each year – with the average wedding (from engagement through to honeymoon) costing £36,000. These are clearly very large figures but perhaps not that surprising given the number of different businesses that provide their expertise and products to the happy couple. “From venues and florists to photographers and live bands, all these industries, like so many others, will be reeling not only from the impact of Covid-19, but also the refusal of many insurers to accept claims made under either business interruption insurance or wedding insurance.” So what should a business do when a wedding is vancelled or postponed? According to Emma, the first step in most cases will be to have a look at the contract – what did you agree? Is there a clause that dictates what will happen in the event that either party cannot perform their obligations under the contract due to

2015, which confirms that terms in a consumer contract must be fair (this applies equally to the force majeure point, mentioned earlier). “While this should always be a consideration for businesses when drawing up contracts, the Competition and Markets Authority recently confirmed that it considers exceptions to a full refund of deposits paid to be ‘rare’ if the contract has not been performed as agreed,” says Emma. “In times like this, it’s very easy for businesses to get overly hung up on their legal rights; clearly these are important, but they do risk obscuring the commercial reality of a situation. “It might be the case that your contract will enable you to retain a deposit or require that a prepayment wedding ceremonies, with large for a cancelled wedding still be made. In some instances, “In the case of contracts wedding receptions or parties it may be absolutely critical entered into before any news remaining prohibited to the business’ continued reports of coronavirus began existence that those to emerge, it seems pretty wedding, now that weddings can take payments are made. safe to say that a contract to deliver “However, if finances allow the wedding ceremony and breakfast, place again. “While small wedding ceremonies (particularly bearing in mind the for example, would be considered support available to business and even smaller receptions were to be frustrated. If the doctrine of through the Coronavirus Job able to take place from 4 July, it is frustration does apply, the contract likely that couples who were planning Retention Scheme (CJRS), support is immediately brought to an end, grants and business interruption larger ceremonies in the coming with the parties discharged from any loan scheme), it would be worth months will want to hold off on their outstanding contractual obligations.” remembering that the engaged plans due to the restrictions on And what if the contract is couple want to get married and attendee numbers. terminated, does a supplier need to they want to do that at your venue/ “Again, you’ll need to have a look refund money that has been paid? using your flowers/dancing to your at your contract to see if it contains “Under the Law Reform music/wearing that dress.. terms that would deal with a request (Frustrated Contracts) Act 1943, any “It may be possible to reach an to postpone or cancel. Of particular advance payments made before the agreement with them that secures concern for many businesses will be occurrence of the frustrating event whether or not you can keep deposits their business with you in say will be entitled to be recovered, six months’ time – you may find paid or require that the couple make subject to the ability of the receiving that such an agreement is more payment to you for what would (in party to offset any expenses already profitable than insisting on payment the case of a postponement) be a incurred,” says Emma. “If you’re the venue therefore, and variation to the contract or (in the case of what is likely to be a fraction of the amount that would be payable if you’ve already ordered food and drink of a cancellation) be a termination of the wedding goes ahead later in the the contract. for the wedding breakfast and your year or next year.” “In either case, suppliers should contract entitles you to receive a prepayment as at the date the contract is bear in mind not only the strict terms For more information visit www. discharged, you’re entitled to be paid of the contract, but also the impact nelsonslaw.co.uk/businessof consumer protection legislation, for those expenses incurred. disputes or call 0800 024 1976. such as the Consumer Rights Act “Likewise, if you’re the florist who has ordered flowers and your contract circumstances outside their control includes provision for you to be paid (known as force majeure)? Does that in advance, with the date for payment clause stipulate what will happen in having passed, you would be well relation to any money paid or due at within your rights to require that prethe date of the force majeure event? payment be made, up to the cost of “If there is no such clause,” those flowers. explains Emma, “suppliers will need “If the venue or florist’s contract to consider whether the contract does not include provision for has been frustrated by an event that pre-payment (or the time for that was unforeseen when the contract pre-payment has not passed), even was entered into. A contract can be if it has incurred expenses prior to frustrated if: the contract being discharged, the 1. The contract becomes impossible venue/florist will not be able to claim to perform and/or either party’s those from the couple.” obligations become radically One question frequently asked different because of that unforeseen now is what is the situation if the event. 2. The contract does not expressly say couple want to postpone the what will happen in such circumstances. The changes announced by 3. The unforeseen event was the government apply only to not caused by either of the parties.

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Money Matters

GOING LEGAL

LIF E AF TER LO CKD OW N Right now, with business starting up again, there are a number of things you should be considering as a retailer. Michael Cahill of Albert Goodman lists out the key areas for attention

1. Health and safety The wellbeing of your staff and customers will be of paramount importance and when you are allowed to open again, it is likely that certain elements will need to look very different to how they did prelockdown. Business owners should undertake a risk assessment and start to complete any necessary requirements coming out of that so that they are able to be up and running quickly. You may need to change the layout of your premises to enable social distancing, install a one way system on your premises and think about your method of taking payment for example. 2. Cash flow forecasts Prepare a cash flow forecast. I’d

suggest a rolling 13-week cashflow would be sensible at the moment, as well as looking at the position over the next 12 months. For many businesses, managing their cash as they come out of the lockdown will be tougher than going into it. A forecast will give visibility of any points where the business may have insufficient cash available and give the business owner some time to take action in order to overcome this problem. 3. Need cash but don’t want to borrow from the bank The government has provided significant levels of support to businesses in the UK – make sure you have reviewed all of these and accessed what you can. They include: • Grants for some businesses through

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the Small Business Grant Fund and Retail, Leisure and Hospitality Grant Fund and Local Authority Discretionary Grant Funds. • The Job Retention Scheme has allowed businesses to furlough their employees and access funding of up to 80% of the employees wages subject to a cap of £2,500 per month. • For the self employed, support has been made available through the Self Employed Income Support Scheme (SEISS) • Deferral of VAT payments due for payments due between 1 April – 30 June (although the deferred amount does need to be paid in full by 31 March 2021) • Deferral of self assessment tax payments on account due by 31 July (the deferred amount must be paid by 31 January) • The ability for business to reclaim up to two weeks of Statutory Sick Pay related to Coronavirus for each affected employee You can also consider what other payments can be deferred – these might include PAYE/NI or corporation tax where a Time To Pay arrangement is agreed with HMRC, a rent deferral /temporary reduction with your landlord’s consent, business rates, and discussing with existing lenders a temporary freeze on repayments. It is important to remember however that any amounts deferred will ultimately have to be paid at a future point if the business is to survive. 4. Schemes available if you need to borrow funds Bounce Bank Loans (BBL) Where any borrowing requirement is less than £50,000 (capped at 25% of turnover) Bounce Back Loans are a great option where the eligibility criteria is met. These can be applied for online, the loan will be over a six-year term, interest is fixed at 2.5%, there are no arrangement fees, no interest in the first year, and no repayments due in Year. Coronavirus Business Interruption

Get connected with the UK’s most exciting, passionate, new wedding personal when running your business industry magazine Avoid blurring the professional and the

Loan Scheme (CBILS) If you need to borrow more than £50,000, CBILS are an alternative option. The application process will be more involved, but similar to BBLs, there are no arrangement fees or interest in year one. Loans can be repaid over a term up to six years, and lenders will usually offer an initial repayment holiday period. The interest rate depends on the lender and the borrower’s position, but most rates I have seen have been between 1.5% and 4%. Loans can be from £50,000 up to £5m. Importantly, for loans under £250,000 the lender cannot seek a Personal Guarantee. 5. Flexible Furlough – how it is going to work Increased flexibility was brought into the Job Retention Scheme from 1 July to allow employees to work part time and enable the employer to reclaim part of their wages when furloughed. The calculations can get very complicated and further guidance is currently being sought from Government for clarification but the key principles are: • From 1 July: An employer can reclaim up to 80% of employees’ wages for the periods they are furloughed, together with the employer’s National Insurance and employer pension contributions • From 1 August: An employer can reclaim up to 80% of employees’ wages for the periods they are furloughed but the employer will not be able to recover the employer’s National Insurance and employer pension contributions • From 1 September: An employer can reclaim up to 70% of employees’ wages for the periods they are furloughed and will not be able to recover the employer’s National Insurance and employer pension contributions • From 1 October: An employer can reclaim up to 60% of employees’ wages for the periods they are furloughed and will not be able to

recover the employer’s National Insurance and employer pension contributions The job retention scheme will then end on 31 October 2020. 6. Review all areas of your business Use this time to review everything that you do to enable you to return from this stronger. Do you need to strengthen your online presence or improve your marketing material? Do you need to change your range of products and services? Do you need to diversify risk by entering new markets or geographical areas? How can you improve your customer experience? Are there any overhead savings that you can achieve? The list is endless but use this time wisely.

It’s a hard ask to be a leader and a friend, isn’t it? As with your customers, you should always avoid

extreme crossing over of the two;

neither too bossy a boss, nor best

Trader Trader Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE ELEVEN • DECEMBER ’18

Survivial of the fittest

PROU SUPPO DLY

RTING BRITISH BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE? OPINIONS, ADVICE AND HARD-HITTING FACTS

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE TWELVE • JANUARY ’19

Dressing with dash

Repeat performance

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION MAKING THE MOST OF WHERE YOU ARE

PROU SUPPO DLY

BEST SELLERS CHOSEN BY THE BEST

RTING BRITISH BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

HAT TRICKS OUR PICK OF CROWNING GLORIES

BLOG IT LEARN FROM THE ABSOLUTE BEST

HAIR VINES CHECK OUT OUR FAVOURITES

OUR GUIDE TO THE PRETTIEST PROM FROCKS

Letter from America

New York

DISCUSSION: SHOULD YOU SHOW PRICES ON YOUR WEBSITE?

GET READY TO BUY THE BEST – WE TELL YOU WHERE AND WHEN

More winners

WHAT THE LATEST BUDGET MEANS TO YOUR BUSINESS

THE VALUE OF HAVING BIG NAMES ON BOARD

VALENTINE’S DAY WILL IT DELIVER A WAVE OF NEW BRIDES?

Show business

DOING IT ABROAD THE DESTNATIONS THAT ARE IN DEMAND

SAYING “I DO” AGAIN AND AGAIN JEWELLED HEELS... SIX OF THE ABSOLUTE SPARKLING BEST

FAMOUS FACES

ISSUE THIRTEEN • FEBRUARY ’19

Assessment

IS IT TIME TO RETHINK YOUR BUSINESS STRATEGY?

MEET ANNY LIN AND HER UNIQUE MIX OF FASHION FLAVOURS

PETER GRIMES FROM VOWS JOINS THE WT TEAM

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THE STARS AND THE SHOW STOPPERS

WEDDING

06/11/2018 09:56

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

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WEDDING

ISSUE 14 • MARCH/APRILWEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM ’19

Showtime BIG AND BOLD OR EXCLUSIVE AND INTIMATE... WHICH SHOW IS FOR YOU?

Justin & Savannah

INTRODUCING THE WHAT THE PERFECT COUPLE TRADE ASSOCIATIONS CAN DO FOR THEIR MEMBERS

DESIGNER SPEAK THE BRITPACK TALK ABOUT FORTHCOMING TRENDS

David’s Bridal

OH KNICKERS! WHAT GOES UNDER THAT BEAUTIFUL DRESS

ISSUE SIX • JULY ‘18

TAKING STOCK

May I have a discount?

ADDING EXTRAS TO YOUR OFFERING THAT WILL PULL IN NEW BUSINESS

NOW IS THE TIME TO SAY NO

WANT IT QUICK? WE’VE FOUND THOSE WHO CAN DELIVER

BUILDING A LUXURY BRAND FIRST, GET YOUR PRIORITIES IN PLACE

Harrogate

SNEAK PEEK AT THE NEWEST TRENDS

Get togethers

ENTER THE NEW-AGE BOYS’ ZONE

Jenny Packham

07/01/2019 21:39

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

BLUSHING BRIDES OUR GUIDE TO THE BEST OF THE PINKS

GROOM SERVICE

BREXIT THE POSSIBLE POSITIVES FOR BRIDAL

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PROUDLY SUPPORTIN BRITISH G BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

WINNERS! WHAT IT FELT LIKE ON THE BIG NIGHT

WILL ITS REPRIEVE HURT THE INDUSTRY?

04/12/2018 10:33

ISSUE TEN • NOVEMBER ’18

Changing the game plan

With mic in hand

WORKING WITH OTHER SERVICE SUPPLIERS

CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO ON BEING A ROYAL COMMENTATOR

Trader Trader Trader

AND WORKING WITH DESSY

WEDDING

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WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

SEEING RED

PROUDLY SUPPORTIN BRITISH G BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

Our pick of the hot new numbers that everyone will want

Private i A BIG BITE OF APPLE SECURITY

JAMES BOND... KILLER GOOD LOOKS

White Gallery preview time

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WEDDING

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ISSUE 19 • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

Doing something different RETAILERS MAKING THEIR MARK

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

SHARING OPINIONS, EXPERIENCES, VISIONS OF THE FUTURE

New chapters STARTING OVER IN THE BRIDAL BUSINESS

Brand awareness THE LABELS THAT MAKE A DIFFERENCE

11/06/2018 10:43

WEDDING

09/10/2018 13:40

ISSUE 20 • MARCH/APRIL ’20

I t’s buying time WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE BIG SHOWS

PROUDLY SUPPORT BRITISHING BRIDALW EAR RETAILERS

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

OPINIONS

RETAILERS’ SHARED FEELINGS, FEARS AND FORWARD THINKING

ISSUE 21 • MAY/JUNE ’20

Coming together

Well trained

GETTING READY FOR OPEN DOORS

NOW WE ARE WORKING AS ONE

PROUDLY SUPPORT BRITISHING BRIDALW EAR RETAILERS

Looking ahead

WHAT THE TOP WEDDING PLANNERS ARE EXPECTING

THE NEW ‘NORM’ WHAT LIES IN STORE?

CHARGEBACKS... A WORD OF WARNING

BREXIT OKAY, SO WHAT HAPPENS NEXT?

7. Plan for a second wave There is a widespread expectation that there will be a second wave of the Coronavirus at some point. Whilst the timing and severity of this is unknown, should it happen, it could bring with it the tightening of previously relaxed lockdown restrictions. Planning now for how you would deal with it will make it easier to respond should it happen in due course. 8. Further support Visit our Coronavirus information portal at https://albertgoodman. co.uk/ where you can book a support call. You can also book on to one of our upcoming webinars or watch previously-recorded webinars Email your business finance questions to susi@rogol-goodkind.com for inclusion in the first available issue of Wedding Trader. If you’d like to consult directly with Michael Cahill for professional advice, then email michael.cahill@ albertgoodman.co.uk to discuss your specific needs

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07/01/2020 18:47

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02/03/2020 16:14

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17/05/2020 14:10

TO WOR K WIT H U S, CONTACT: Sales Executive Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122

Editor Susi Rogol susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Finally, it feels that the gap has been bridged and suppliers and retailers are all on the same page, working and talking together. Susi and the fabulous team have recognised this in abundance and created a monthly handbag explosion of fascinating insight, construction opinions, hints, tips and captivating reads. Truly inspirational! Jeanette Stevens, Managing Director, Enzoani Europe W ED D I N GTRAD ERMAG.CO M

J U L Y / A U G U S T 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 95

“I would like to thank Wedding Trader – as I am sure many other readers will – for producing an issue during lockdown that let us get our viewpoints over and be able to share our concerns as well as our more positive thoughts. I must say, being at home and using my ipad more than usual, I thoroughly enjoyed accessing the magazine online. The round up of some of the new collections, which obviously I haven’t been able to see first hand, was really helpful, too”

“Now that we are open for business again, I am curious if other shops are finding an increased interest in quite formal, classical gowns, and far less in easy-going destination dresses, which were big business for us before Covid 19 hit. Quite a number of customers have told me that they were planning to marry abroad next year but are no longer considering that, in case there are spikes elsewhere and then quarantine rulings in place, and are making up for it by spoiling themselves here. One bride of mine is planning three weddings for herself, a sort of series of parties with small numbers over a two week period and the opportunity to wear her dress again and again! A great idea methinks.” ALLURE

“Isn’t it amazing! We have had a rush of appointments from the first day we re-opened, with brides falling over themselves to find that dress. Interestingly, more than half of the girls we have seen weren’t planning to marry this year anyway but want to make up for lost ‘searching’ time caused by lockdown. Have to say, I haven’t had any brides-to-be who have said they are worried about budgets – they are just after realising their long-held dream.”

...and finally Everyone, it seems, has so much so say but the one thing shared is the joy of being back at work and seeing customers again

“I have to say, there was much about lockdown that I actually enjoyed. More time with the kids, more conversation with my other half, more opportunity to reestablish relationships with old friends and more distant family. And yes, more time to cook! My values have definitely changed... and changed for the better, I think.”

“Reading about the frustration and fears of others in your last issue made me feel better able to cope with what I was going through and has encouraged me to communicate more with fellow retailers. I was brave enough (well for me, that is) to make contact with some of those who had written in Wedding Trader and feeling there is someone there to ‘share’ with makes such a difference. It was also great to find out what others were doing relating to staff and also shop revamps. When I opened again it was with more confidence than I had before.” 96 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J U L Y / A U G U S T 2 0 2 0

F IND YOUR

DREAM DRESS Use our handy tool to search through 1000â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of dresses online for all the bridal party, then click to find your nearest stockist!

www.findyourdreamdress.co.uk

Th we e ne bs w ite FY is DD liv e!

Find your en dream dress th r track down yout nearest stockis

ELYSEEBRIDAL.COM

Wedding Trader - issue 22

Articles inside

AND FINALLY

FINANCE

GOING LEGAL

TRAINING

LOOKING GORGEOUS

GROOMS’ ROOM

TECHNO

BRIDESTALK

BOLD AND BRILLIANT

FROM BRIDAL TO PPE

EUROPEAN BRIDAL WEEK

HEADSTART

VIEWPOINT

MAKING AN IMPRESSION

TIME WELL SPENT

BY ASSOCIATION

VENUE-SPEAK

I DID IT MY WAY

TAKING CHARGE

TAKING THE LEAD

ELLIE’S PLACE

NOW HEAR THIS

BARCELONA

THINKING IT THROUGH

LETTER FROM AMERICA

LAURA’S THOUGHTS