Trader WEDDING
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
New York greats
THE BEST BITS OF HARROGATE... RETAILERS LIST THEIR FAB FIVE
ISSUE 18 • NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019
PRO SUPPOUDLY RT BRITISHING BRIDAL W RETAIL EAR ERS COMING UP ROSES... PINK IS THE PRETTIEST CHOICE
Reactions
THE WINNERS ON STAGE TO GET THEIR TROPHIES
DIARIES AT THE READY SAVE ALL THE DATES FOR THE 2020 SHOWS
NEW SHOP FIT? WATCH WHAT YOU SPEND
Apple facts and all the fiction
INTRODUCING
A new multi-way transformative dress.
To order, visit loopdress.com or contact Michele O’Neill email: michele@dessy.com or call: 0845 838 1041
The Loop Dress Is US and foreign patent pending.
RO M A N T I C A C O L L E C T I O N S BRITISH BY DESIGN
To find out more about our exciting new 2020 collections please contact us. Tel: 01823 674 412 Email : enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk
www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk
www.dandolondon.com
For details on becoming a Dando London stockist contact sales@dandolondon.com Headquarters: DP World Logistics Centre, Ground Floor, North Sea Crossing, Stanford le Hope, Essex. SS17 9ER (+44) 1420 23490 media@dandolondon.com
Dando London
contents
CELEBRATING SUCCESS A toast to this year’s Award winners
W H AT ’ S W HE RE 13 TA L KING P OINT The latest need-to-knows in bridal
68
19 I N MY OP INION Laura Daly is feeling positive
70
22 L ET TER FROM AME R ICA There’s light at the end of the tunnel
72
24 TA L KING SH OP Retailers exchange ideas
76
29 EL L IE Investing in new premises
78
32 S IX O F TH E BEST A whole new look at ballgowns
82
38 G L I TTE R ING P RIZES Award winners’ reactions
84
44 MYR NA Picking up on the new buying habits
88
46 VA R IATIONS ON A T HE M E Dessy’s Loop dress and all the options
90
48 FAVOUR ITE TH INGS The gin bar was a Harrogate winner!
92 S O FT WAR E KNOW- H OW
52
COPYRIGH T You need to know this
96
56 EN ZOANI’S NE W L AB E L Another success story in the making
98
60 T HE BIG 3- 0 Stephanie Hanks celebrates
100
64 A B RIDAL E XTRAVAGANZ A Caroline Clark delivers a treat
102 AND FINAL LY. . .
T HE J U PO N B U ZZ Buying trends on a busy Harrogate stand GU IDE TO... Think pink... it’s perfectly pretty S ECO ND O PIN I O N Impressions of a show
SAVANNAH MILLER
L IFE- C HANGIN G We’re talking batteries here
BLOKES Have we reached Peak tweed? BRIDESTALK Who is who on a first appointment NE W YO R K STY LE The trends that were set in the Big Apple DAY IN L IFE O F. . . Monica Poncelas keeps busy busy TIMEKEEPING Can robots deliver the experience? No way! Understanding online services
T RAINING Festive thoughts and getting it right M O NE Y M AT T E R S Michael Cahill answers your questions Here’s what you have to say this month
SERRANO BY SUZANNE NEVILLE
T HE Y E AR AHEA D Check list of the key 2020 shows
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 7
CO NTACT US
Ed’s Letter
Editor Susi Rogol
It’s coming to the end of another year and the last spate of shows have closed their very glamorous doors... for now at least. But is it time to wind down? No way, no how. Diaries are already filled with 2020 dates for exhibitions across the globe and retailers are reporting a real increase in appointments with so many couples opting for 2020 as their chosen year to tie the knot. The months gone by have seen many an up and down on the bumpy road to retail success but there does seem to be a positive thread to all conversations right now. Increasingly, businesses tell us that they are finding strength through discussion with others who share the same concerns. It’s that level of support that makes a difference and getting answers to questions always helps. Sharing is one thing our industry has always been particularly good at... and long may it continue. My love to you all for a happy, healthy and hopeful very festive season ahead. And my thanks for your support of Wedding Trader; we wouldn’t be here without you. EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND TEAM TALK Andy Allen Art Director “The Harrogate Bridal Show really seems to bring people together to share their worries and their visions.” (p48 and 76) Laura Lismore Fashion Sales Executive “Well done Stephanie Hanks. 30 years on top of the game and so much of value to pass on to others.” (p60)
Trader WEDDING
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
New York greats
THE BEST BITS OF HARROGATE... RETAILERS LIST THEIR FAB FIVE
susi@meanttobemedia.com
Menswear Editor Dominic Bliss dominic.bliss@btopenworld.com
Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com
Fashion Sales Executive Laura Lismore Laura@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07903 858078
Sales Executive Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122
ISSUE 18 • NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019
PROU SUPPORDLY TIN BRITISH G BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS COMING UP ROSES... PINK IS THE PRETTIEST CHOICE
@WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader
weddingtradermag.com
Reactions
THE WINNERS ON STAGE TO GET THEIR TROPHIES
Martha Cooke Head of Advertising “Pink is my colour and to see so much variation across bridal, occasionwear and accessories is great.” (p72) Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding “Fact and fiction when it comes to Apple products was a real eye-opener and shows how little we know!” (p68)
DIARIES AT THE READY SAVE ALL THE DATES FOR THE 2020 SHOWS
Apple facts and all the fiction WT18_Cover try4 paloma 1aa_s_c.indd 1
28/10/2019 16:13
Cover image: Sleek satin gown for 2020 by Paloma Blanca
CONTRIBUTORS Carina Baverstock, Dominic Bliss, Michael Cahill, Caroline Clark Helena Cotter, Laura Daly, Rebecca Doyle, Peter Grimes, Stephanie Hanks, Anneleise Jones, Maria Kelly, Jessica Letheren, Sue Lovell, Emma Meek, Maria Musgrove, Russell Newton, Chris Partridge, Andrew and Robert Pearce, Jade Pepperell, Myrna Plaisir Daramy, Monica Poncelas, Ellie Sanderson, Gary Wilkins
8 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019
Trader WEDDING
NEW SHOP FIT? WATCH WHAT YOU SPEND
Wedding Trader magazine is distributed to hundreds of the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is a new trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.
MEANT TO BE MEDIA Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 68a Oldham Road, Manchester M4 5EE. Tel: 0161 236 6712 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish: F IND YOUR
LOV E OUR
DREAM DRESS
www.fredabennet.co.uk hello@fredabennet.co.uk 01322 537741 fredabennet fredabennetbride
Glamour since 1991 Poirier is specialized in bridal bodywear and accessories for the contemporary bride. By focusing only on using the best designs and materials our mission is to make our brides glamorous and beautiful. Enjoy the best bridal accessories on your journey of love.
www.jupon.com
01753622922 gary@jupon.com @jupon.petticoats
@jupon_petticoats
@juponpetticoats
TALKIN G POINT The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now
New York Calls For a round up of the 2020 looks presented in New York’s recent shows across the city, see page 84. Some of the biggest international brands strutted their stuff from showroom to hotel suite to exhibition arena, including laid back UK designer Hermione de Paula, a graduate of Central St Martins with an enviable track record that includes working with Dior Couture, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano and in Hollywood with the head of costume at Warner Bros. Her portfolio is dazzling. Call +44 (0)20 7646 2498 to discover more.
HEAVENLY HEELS Ruth Shaw, the big talent behind luxury shoe brand Harriet Wilde, has introduced her 2020 collection, and it is a stunner. Intricatelywrought jewelled heels – often metallic branches studded with crystals – are her signature, but there are some amazing, towering stilettos to delight in, scallop-edged, or bow tied. +44 (0)20 7263 4147 / contact@harrietwilde.com N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 13
BLACK WATCH F R O M WILVO R ST Black Watch is a classic pattern which owes its name to the 3rd Battalion of the Royal Regiment of Scotland, of the 18th century. The classic tartan pattern from the past has been reinvented for an elegant and fashionable dinner suit in Wilvorst’s Cool Classics collection – seen here in blue and green, with the satin lapel in blue. Slim fit, this one promises to be a celebration favourite. Andy Roberts at andy@ara.uk.com for details.
Stats Worth Knowing
Hitched, the UK’s largest wedding website, recently released results of The National Wedding Survey 2019. The 14th annual wedding industry report, the most comprehensive of its kind, surveyed over 2,800 couples to reveal their spending habits and biggest wedding trends in the UK. In 2019, the average wedding cost in the UK is £31,974, which has risen 54%, from £20,799 in 2014. 42% said they felt under pressure to have a Pinterest- or Instagram-worthy wedding and 30% spent more than their budget to make it happen. The survey found that the top five wedding costs are: 1 2 3 4 5
Venue hire: £5,406 Honeymoon: £4,645 Food: £3,887 Engagement ring: £2,419 Drinks: £1,587
Brexit – it had to come up – 26% of couples worried about the impact of the vote to leave the EU on their wedding costs. One in three couples reckoned Brexit had made their wedding more expensive while 28% of couples surveyed were worried about their honeymoon travel plans and 30% said Brexit put them off organising a wedding abroad. The report also reveals that time-honoured British wedding traditions are seeing a decline: • 62% of couples opting not to have pageboys and • 52% opting not to have flower girls at their wedding. • Less than half (43%) of brides toss their bouquet; • Only 15% follow the silver sixpence tradition; and just 28% of couples choose to carry their partner over the threshold. 14 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9
DE TAIL ON DETAIL Italian Designer Elisabetta Polignano is tireless in her constant stylistic research and as a result every single gown reflects the meticulous attention paid to the choice of fabrics and detailing. In the 2020 collection there are magical three-dimensional effects with soft wavy shapes, flower petals perched on skirts like butterfly wings, puffy bows, coloured embroidery, pintucks, lace appliqués and cascades of ruffles. If you are looking for something very different and with a powerful personality, this collection could be it. elisabettapolignano.com
The Ballgown Game See our faves on page 32, and check out Mark Lesley’s latest, too. We love this Mikado number, below, style 7416 – the plunging neckline and intricate beadwork put it in a class of its own.
CHICAGO – BRIDAL’S KINDA TOWN More stats... these from the National Bridal Market in Chicago: 208 exhibitors 432 labels 14 categories 7.13% increase visitors 32 countries represented 3,800 lunches served 161 pieces in the fashion show 390 photobooth pictures taken 1 epic 370-person dance party All in all, pretty good stuff! N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 15
FANCY A B I T O F SEASO N A L D R ES S I NG ? Bloomsart is the place to check out for fab faux flowers and plants – perfect for windows, instore and best of all exterior flower features.
This is floral WOW, that doesn’t curl up and die within a week. +44 (0)20 3371 8113 bloomsart.co.uk
LUXE BRIDE UPDATE The Luxe Bride directors have made the decision to radically change Luxe Bride from a membership-lead organisation to a business consultancy. The rebrand and redefinition is a work in progress and coincides with Leonie Lawmon’s business review after her first full year in charge. Despite news of this being confidential and shared only with our clients, misinformation abounds. To correct rumours, Luxe Bride is not closing. Its aim will be to offer the training and mentoring services they have provided to date, tailored to meet the needs of individual companies, whether retail, wholesale or
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within the wider wedding industry. These will be costed and quoted individually on a project by project basis. The existing membership offer was, and is, simply too broad to deliver with a single full-time team member, to a diverse group of retailers, all with different needs, for a fixed fee. Additional products and services are in development. Watch this space! Luxe Bride really wanted its Directory to work. The membership wanted the Directory to work. Luxe Bride would love to be able to demonstrate that its Directory was working. Sorry, no can do. Directories don’t work. Has anyone seen a Yellow Pages recently? Domino’s Pizza puts more weighty and highbrow marketing materials through people’s front doors. Lists are not compelling reading. Directories have been overtaken by direct ‘brand to consumer’ conversations. Luxe Bride decided to focus on empowering its members; teaching and coaching best technical practise. Digital and social media marketing training has been requested by all their membership going forward. There will still be a private membership community, free to access, positive and supportive, but the business advice, training and project management will be bespoke.
Valmont Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week To find inspiration for the 2020 event, VBBFW has worked closely with twelve professionals from different artistic genres – including fashion, the cinema, gastronomy, music, sports, dance and literature – who have offered their own visions of Barcelona and the concepts of beauty and creativity and how they affect people and their environment. Under the slogan ‘Join the dream’, the VBBFW ‘manifesto’ advocates the beauty of a diverse world. According to Estermaria Laruccia, the trade show’s director: “In a world dominated by images, we wanted to give value to words and share our vision with the industry; we’re moving towards a new event, committed to people and the environment and more open to the world,” she says. The group of professionals is made up of pastry artist Christian Escribà, model and writer Martina Klein, haute couture collector Alessandro Cannavo, journalist and writer Enric Calpena, plastic artist Yamandú Canosa; film and TV director Silvia Quer, audiovisual artist Franc Aleu, art director and designer Javier Gutiérrez, creative director Xavier Escolano, dancer and choreographer Thomas Noone, athlete Anna Tarrés and creative director Xavi Lanau.
A selection of models of different ages, cultures, characteristics and backgrounds feature in the new VBBFW 2020 image, an artistic composition framed within an architectural space displaying sculptor Xavier Corberó’s maze-like home, a surprisingly lesser-known place in Barcelona. For show dates, see page 96.
DOING IT THEIR WAY... something to think about Beverly Hills-based Winnie Couture, a world-renowned brand that brides, celebrities and fashionistas have come to love, recently opened its seventh store – this one in Bay Bay, Boston – to be followed by San Francisco and, next year, Nashville and Las Vegas. Housing over 120 gowns, the Boston space is complete with three large bridal suites, where brides and their guests can privately experience the intricacies of Winnie’s designs. We asked the team there to tell us more... “The romantic ambience in our lavish salons is illuminated by opulent chandeliers and intimate fitting spaces, complete with plush furnishings, glamorous décor and an overall feeling of richness and relaxation created to provide the
perfect backdrop for the most special bridal moment. Our salons are every bride’s fantasy shopping paradise and they visit the salon with a high set of expectations. “Since every bride is unique, our salons offer customisations to accommodate and create every bride’s dream wedding gown. We deliver the ultimate bridal shopping experience and guarantee this through our in-depth process of training. Stylists undergo intensive training sessions and must pass all training tests to reach the expected Winnie standard prior to seeing brides. When franchising with us, we provide support in site selection and our creative team will produce a customised floor plan along with providing assistance in decor, furniture and stock to turn your
salon into the ultimate bridal dreamland and turn key ready!” Something worth thinking about.
N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 17
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In my opinion Positivity is proving to be a winning formula for Laura Daly and team at her award-winning Bellissima
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hatting to my industry retailer friends, it really does appear that the predictable sales patterns of old have well and truly died. Gone are the days of just about ticking along during the week only to find ourselves without enough hours or staff or energy to cope with the inevitable onslaught at the weekends. Overstuffed January diaries and eerily quiet August sales are but distant memories. From what I hear, this is something of a national trend and I draw a certain amount of comfort from that. It’s good to know that we’re almost all riding the same rollercoaster together – and the same occasional shrieks of joy, or panic, or sheer bewilderment can be heard in bridal stores across the land. At Bellissima, in recent times, we’ve seen midweek days that have been busier than the best of good oldfashioned Saturdays; and Saturdays when I swear there’s been tumbleweed rolling around the shop floor and more thumb-twiddling going on than any other activity. To keep the customers coming in, we extended our December 2018 sale into January but then we very nearly collapsed under the pressure of a super-busy summer diary that saw record sales. ‘Unpredictable’ sums it up pretty accurately. Believe me when I say I know just how easy it is to go home depressed when things are quiet and convince yourself that it’s just you and that every other shop has countless brides queueing at the door, wildly waving their credit cards in the air. You start
to question whether or not you really know what you’re doing and, if the week had been particularity quiet, how on earth you’re going to pay the bills. Then, woo-hoo, the next day is busy, the till is ringing and all the previous day’s angst is forgotten. But is it really? I’m sure it’s not good for anyone to live such an extreme bipolar existence for any length of time. Without a doubt, it will have a huge influence on our general wellbeing and we run the risk of casting a negative influence over our staff as well. The chances are that the difficult or pessimistic atmosphere will soon be affecting the customers, too. At this point, even the good days in the shop may not be properly capitalised upon because the atmosphere created in the shop isn’t conducive to selling. Either that, or everyone is so desperate for a sale that they become needy and pushy and frighten off their customers! A light bulb moment, complete with the free gift of a coping mechanism came to me via one of my oldest friends who works in the entertainment industry. She started out as an actress but has now moved on to become a film director and writer. Swimming resolutely against the tide, and with little track record, she secured the funding from Amazon to finish her second feature film. Against enormous odds, this film has just made it into a film festival in New York and she’s
walking the red carpet as I write. To make ends meet, and whilst working on her next couple of scripts, she’s been working part-time as a sales assistant. I asked how she copes with rejection, how she is always so positive, and how on earth she keeps the faith that money will appear to pay her bills. She told me simply, ‘I bank the wins’. Every slight victory, every compliment, every positive meeting goes into the bank. Nothing negative goes in. Slowly her bank balance of wins grows, until she is rich in wins. This helps her keep positive and believe in herself. So, as an experiment, the next day at our staff meeting I told the girls to start banking their wins. Every customer’s smile, every happy dance, every life changed – bank it. Even on the most dire of days there’s always something to bank. Bolstered by their banks full of positivity, my team have just achieved a 15% increase on their sales for August and September. I can feel the positive effect that it’s had on me, too – recently my Basil Fawlty moments have been tamed and it feels uplifting to let yourself feel good! I’m not by any means claiming it’s the magic bullet to end all problems, but banking those wins may just help to keep you happier, keep your team happier, keep your customers happier. Give it a go... bank the wins!
N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 19
Letter from America Peter Grimes, publisher of US trade bible. VOWS, says there is light at the end of the retail tunnel... and that it is coming from an unexpected source
T
here may be a lot of issues making it difficult to succeed in bridal retail these days but, regardless of your location, I see a silver lining in those dark clouds, one that is being overlooked in our collective anxieties about the detrimental impact of e-commerce and direct-to-bride websites. At the risk of being accused of half-full kind of thinking, I actually think the future for bridal speciality retail is not as dark as forecast.
The reason for this guarded optimism? It is the growing and much-touted trend of native online businesses (who have often slammed brick-and-mortar stores as being outdated and so last-century) actually opening physical locations. It’s an emerging and noteworthy trend that’s consistent with what we’ve seen in recent years from high-end luxury brands who continue to expand and fine-tune their story within highly-focused and creativelymerchandised physical spaces. Whether luxury goods or digital native, what is at the root and driving this trend is the reality that in order to continue to grow, they need to provide a much better experience for their customers than they do online. The online-only model, they are discovering, is not the panacea they’ve long believed and claimed. Additionally, as the cost of online marketing increases and ROI decreases, the general realisation is that it is more cost-effective to open
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a physical store to enhance those precious meaningful engagements and relationships… and doing so often results in driving more online sales! For example, according to a recent report in Business of Fashion, the top ten online businesses (such as Adore Me, Bonobos, Untucked and Bauble Bar) have announced plans to open 850 stores within the next five years… which doesn’t account for the growth planned in the number of physical locations by Amazon. A recent State-side example: Le Tote, an online clothing rental service, has announced the acquisition of the nearly 200-year-old, 38-department store chain Lord & Taylor, commenting that the physical locations and Lord & Taylor’s deep roster of brands will help grow their customer base. According to Rakesh Tondon, Le Tote’s CEO and founder, in the press release announcing the acquisition: “Since founding Le Tote, it’s been our mission to push the boundaries of retail. We’ve strived to lead the charge
Taylor, these physical locations are instead labeled ‘pop-up’ (both temporary and permanent), ‘experience’, ‘showroom’, ‘guide shop’ or ‘concept’. Anything but ‘store.’ And sales associates are ‘stylists.’ We are all very aware that it is the experience the customer has within our stores that results in sales... this trend also confirms what we’ve long suspected: it is the experience that customers have in a physical location that drives online success. We’re also following a similar evolution underway in department stores and malls as they attempt to The three core elements they’ve re-imagine and re-create the off-line identified as necessary for their experience to more closely align growth: - Convenience or instant gratification with today’s consumer expectations (which, by the way, seems to involve - An engagement of all the renaming as well... in this case malls consumer’s senses - The importance and need to provide as ‘villages’). The advice of consultants and face-to-face pertinent expert advice results of their surveys suggest they Sounds familiar? And here’s an too must concentrate on similar additional twist in their thinking... areas, and specifically: offline locations are not being called ‘stores’; instead they are described as - Having the right number of people on the floor who have been well the development of “non-traditional trained to insure they service retail.” customers in the most helpful and With the exception of Lord & in developing innovative, intuitive, value-driven ways for customers to engage and consume. We’re excited to bring Le Tote together with Lord & Taylor, a storied brand that has stood for quality, style and service for nearly two centuries. With this acquisition, we continue our journey in creating the future of retail.” Think about that... these online direct-to-consumer companies recognise that convenience of buying is not enough to foster their growth. They need to be more like you.
enthusiastic way - Creating an expert per department or category, following the model that is reinvigorating Home Depot - Creating a showroom environment of curated collections that are hyperfocused on consumer wants, and that are merchandised and displayed dominantly and creatively The takeaway here: while we can’t compete head-to-head on the convenience factor, we can provide some aspect of immediate, emotional gratification. And we’ve clearly got them beat on engaging all senses, and on providing personalised advice. Providing such an experience in your store is not an easy proposition – and very much a moving target – but when you do what you do best, you provide exactly what your brides want and need. The expansion of digital and luxury brands into physical environments (no matter what they call it) also clearly confirms to their customers the importance of an instore experience... even when they label it ‘non traditional.’
Calling all boutique owners! Give this brilliant free wedding magazine as a gift to your brides!
ISSUE FOUR • OCTOBER 2015
STUNNING STYLES FOR EVERY TIME OF YEAR
Trend alert!
THE BEST DETAILS TO MAKE YOUR DAY WOW
REAL BRIDES
BEAUTIFUL WEDDINGS & REAL ADVICE INSIDE
ESSENTIAL PLANNING TIPS TACKLE THE BIGGEST PLANNING WOES WITH OUR HANDY GUIDE
PERFECT REAL-LIFE WEDDINGS
MADISON JAMES
DISCOVER MORE FROM THIS HOT NEW LABEL
FOUR REAL BRIDES SHARE THEIR BIG DAY STORIES, P58
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY THIS SEASON’S MUST-VISIT SHOWS
WIN TICKETS TO THE NATIONAL WEDDING SHOW!
BRIDESMAID HANDBOOK
‘I’m engaged!’ WE FOLLOW A REAL BRIDE-TO-BE ON HER WEDDING JOURNEY
EVERYTHING YOUR GIRLS NEED TO KNOW!
Gift ideas
FOOD IDEAS
GIVE YOUR NEWLYWED NEST A VINTAGE GLOSS WITH OUR BEST BUYS
TASTY DISHES FOR YOU AND YOUR GUESTS, P86
w LOW3_Cover Madison James 6aa JP.indd 1
03/08/2015 20:17
DRESSES FOR EVERY BODY SHAPE FIND A GORGEOUS GOWN THAT LOOKS & FEELS INCREDIBLE
Cute as a button
ADORABLE IDEAS FOR FLOWERGIRLS
GET AN AMAZING 25% OFF YOUR ACCESSORIES! PLUS-SIZE SHOPPING TIPS GREAT ADVICE FOR CURVIER BRIDES
LOW12_Coveridea Elbeth Gillis 3aa JP.indd 1
TIPS TO CREATE THE WEDDING OF YOUR DREAMS, FOR LESS!
ELBETH GILLIS HOW ONE OF SOUTH AFRICA’S BEST DESIGNERS IS SET TO WOW THE UK
Let’s celebrate!
NEW WAYS TO KEEP YOUR GUESTS ENTERTAINED
BEAUTIFUL WEDDINGS REAL STORIES WITH BRILLIANT IDEAS TO STEAL, P70
01/05/2016 18:20
ISSUE 27 • SEPTEMBER 2017
A little something extra for your brides Packed with top planning tips, dreamy details and bridal fashion, Love Our Wedding is the UK’s favourite free wedding magazine, and you can give this handbag-sized treat to your brides, free of charge! Every issue can be delivered to your door in packs of 20, so you can distribute them to your brides as you wish. Proudly display them in store or put them in goody bags for your customers to take away. To become a stockist, email andy@meanttobemedia.com.
FLAWLESS NEW FROCKS FOR YOU & YOUR BRIDESMAIDS
• STATIONERY • DECOR • SHOES • JEWELLERY • CAKES &
MUCH MORE
Photo finish EXPERTS REVEAL THE BEST WAYS TO POSE FOR PHOTOS
Justin Alexander
THE SIGNATURE STYLES YOU’LL FALL IN LOVE WITH
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EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS INSIDE!
SO SASSI
SEE THE NEW STYLES FROM ONE OF BRIDAL’S FAVOURITE DESIGNERS
She’s the one
INCREDIBLE DRESSES FOR EVERY BRIDE, P14
31/08/2015 17:38
50 GORGEOUS NEW DRESSES
WE SELECT OUR FAVOURITE BRIDAL DESIGNS FOR 2017
He’s the one! REASONS TO HIRE YOUR GROOM’S SUIT, P50 WORRIES OF A BRIDE-TO-BE SECRET THOUGHTS EVERY BRIDE HAS
BENJAMIN ROBERTS WHY THE NEW COLLECTION IS THEIR BEST YET!
HOT PLUS-SIZE GOWNS FOR FULLER FIGURES
FIND MY VENUE! WE DISCOVER THE UK’S BEST COUNTRY HOUSE VENUES, P115
Cute
couples 12 PAGES OF BEAUTIFUL REAL-LIFE WEDDINGS
HOW TO DE-STRESS BEFORE THE BIG DAY KEEP THOSE NERVES UNDER CONTROL WITH OUR TOP TIPS
TREAT YOUR LOCKS TO ONE OF THESE CUTE LOOKS
Catwalk chic
A BUMPER 1ST BIRTHDAY ISSUE!
SHOW TIME!
MUST-VISIT FAIRS TO ADD TO THE DIARY FINISHING TOUCHES MAKE YOUR DAY STAND OUT!
Seasonal food ideas DELICIOUS DISHES FOR YOUR MENU
OUR BIGGEST SELECTION OF BEAUTIFUL
WEDDINGS TO INSPIRE YOU
31/05/2016 17:49
REAL BRIDES
BRILLIANT IDEAS AND INSPIRING STORIES
The finer details
FROM STATIONERY TO BRIDAL ACCESSORIES, FIND HUNDREDS OF FINISHING TOUCHES INSIDE
LOW5_Cover idea Allure 5aa NEW COLOURS.indd 1
MINI MAIDS ADORABLE PICKS FOR YOUR FLOWERGIRLS
WIN A N HONEYMOO IN CRETE WORTH OVER £2,500 VENUE SPECIAL FIND THE PERFECT PLACE FOR YOUR BIG DAY
Wedding dress how-to FIND THE DRESS OF YOUR DREAMS WITH OUR BRIDAL GUIDE
You said
yes! OUR PLANNING TIPS FOR NEWLYENGAGED BRIDES
READY, SET, CAKE! WEDDING CAKE TRENDS FROM A GREAT BRITISH BAKE-OFF PRO
Enzoani HOT 2018 STYLES FOR EVERY BRIDE
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Mini maids
PRETTY FLOWERGIRL DRESSES THEY’LL LOVE
DREAMY DISCOUNTS GREAT DEALS FOR EVERY READER!
02/10/2015 12:55
20/11/2017 16:30
Br ides REAL IDEAS, ADVICE AND DETAILS TO INSPIRE YOU
HOW TO PLAN YOUR PERFECT WEDDING!
WOW-FACTOR COLLECTIONS
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• AUGUST 2018
TISSUES AT THE READY FOR OUR BEAUTIFUL REAL WEDDING STORIES
Travel special
FROM MARRYING ABROAD TO IDYLLIC HONEYMOON IDEAS – WE’VE GOT YOU COVERED
Blue by Enzoani WHY WE THINK THIS IS THE BEST COLLECTION YET!
OVER 100 GORGEOUS WEDDING GOWNS
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Wedding trends 2018 EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW FOR YOUR DREAM DAY
Fashion special THE DESIGNERS AND DRESSES YOU HAVE TO SEE
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We love curves! GORGEOUS GOWNS FOR FULL-FIGURED BRIDES
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100+ DREAM S DRESSE YOU AND FOR YOUR GIRLS
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WIN A WEDDING DRESS WORTH £1,500!
LET’S GO OUTSIDE! BEAUTIFUL OUTDOOR WEDDING INSPIRATION
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AMAZING ACCESSORIES DELICATE DETAILS TO FINISH YOUR LOOK
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SAVING TIPS
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LIVE, LAUGH, LOVE & GET MARRIED!
ISSUE 16 • OCTOBER 2016
• APRIL 2018
Stress-free planning
MENSWEAR TRENDS FOR THE NEW SEASON
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A HANDY GUIDE TO MARRYING OVERSEAS
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Dress up!
‘I do’ abroad
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Gorgeous Weddings BE INSPIRED BY THESE THREE REAL-LIFE CELEBRATIONS
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• MAY 2018
Spring in her step CELEBRATE THIS SEASON WITH OUR BRILLIANT TIPS
Get the look GORGEOUS STYLES FROM VINTAGE TO GLAMOUR SO MUCH TO DO, PLENTY OF TIME! OUR CHECKLIST MAKES PLANNING A BREEZE
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• JUNE 2018
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@LoveOurWedMa g 283 LoveOurW edding She’s in Save in style fashion! get loveourwLet’s ed married! dingmag Trends for 2019 LoveOurWedMa g
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Martin Thornburg A MON CHERI COLLECTION THAT’S FIT FOR A PRINCESS
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• OCTOBER 2018
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• NOVEMBER 2018
WAYS TO IMPRESS
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PASTEL PERFECTION LAVENDER, BLUSH & MORE PRETTY SHADES FOR YOUR MAIDS
FROM THE LATEST IN BRIDAL FASHION TO THEME IDEAS FOR YOUR RECEPTION
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TA L K I N G SHOP
Comparing experiences gives an invaluable insight into how others in the same business are doing. These four retailers share views but also have different stories to tell
CARINA BAVERSTOCK COUTURE Where: Bradford on Avon Year opened: 2010 Main labels carried: The very best of the British designers including Suzanne Neville, Sassi Holford, Caroline Castigliano, Jenny Packham Average price achieved over the past year: £2,800 Busiest month in 2019: We have had a steady year but noticed an increase in sales in June as next year appears to be a hugely popular year for weddings with the fabulous 2020 date line. Percentage of your brides planning to marry abroad: As always weddings abroad in guaranteed sunshine remain popular, covering 25% of our brides, which leaves 75% wanting traditional British weddings in village churches, marquees and manor houses. Silhouette most in demand: The full skirt is worn with a real sense of enjoyment at being a ‘real bride’, wishing to be glamorous and feminine on her big day and a bride that everyone will remember. At the same time, we are seeing a continued love affair with long sleeves and open backs, creating a mood of innocent flirtation. Your opening days/hours: Tuesday to Saturday 10am-5pm with VIP
appointments available out of hours. Have brides been challenging your pricing? Our price point is always accepted as brides have often been to visit other local shops and seen similar prices but can immediately see a difference in the quality of the British designers we offer. Have you bought more or less than in previous years? We offer a wide variety of dresses from each of our designers and we are premiere stockists for Suzanne Neville and
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Caroline Castigliano holding some 30 dresses of each designer, as well as soft countryside-feel dresses from Sassi Holford, theatrical glamour from Eliza Jane Howell, and chic sophistication from David Fielden. Do you reckon department store closures will benefit independents? Online shopping and department stores do not affect us as our type of bride wants personal service and individual advice and styling, as well as superb after sales fittings, all of which are guaranteed at Carina Baverstock Couture.
CREATIQUES Where: Southsea, Hampshire Year opened: In 2004, but we have been in the industry for 28 years this year, designing and making from scratch before becoming a retailer. Main labels carried: Justin Alexander, Sincerity, Mark Lesley, Maggie Sottero, Sottero and Midgley, Lillian West, Eliza Jane Howell. Average price achieved over the past year: £1,200-£1,800 Busiest month in 2019: July and August Has business been better or worse than expected – and what do you put it down to: It started slower this year, with a number of brides opting for 2020 weddings, but we are now on par with last year. Percentage of your brides who are planning to marry abroad: The numbers are Increasing more and more. We estimate that at least 25% of our brides will be opting for destination weddings. Silhouette most in demand: Crepe fit and flare with an illusion back, or sumptuous Mikado ballgowns. Accessories carried: We certainly do! We stock Ivory & Co and Twilight Designs Hair Accessories and veils by Daisy Day and Bianco Evento. Menswear: Not at present. However, we do stock Mother of The Bride by Gill Harvey, Ian Stuart, Ellaboo, Lizabella and Gina Bacconi. Your opening days/hours: Tuesday to Saturday 10am-5pm with late night appointments available on Tuesday and Thursday until 8pm. Have brides been challenging your pricing: Absolutely not. However, we do find that there are shops in the surrounding area who are trying to undercut significantly. Have you bought more or less than in previous years? Minimums haven’t changed, but we have adapted the way we buy. We no longer buy everything we like but rather work out what we are missing from our
collection or what we are selling well and we plan our buying from there. We also consider the mark ups on dresses, and analyse our location, ensuring that we are sticking within our average bride’s spend. Saying that, there will always be a couple of dresses we fall in love with and simply HAVE TO HAVE! Which trade events have you visited? London Bridal Week, Barcelona and Harrogate. Harrogate – was it good for you? There were some extremely strong collections, and we found the majority of it easy to buy. Mark Lesley was a real stand out. It’s always great to connect with our designers. Were you planning to see existing suppliers or to look for new names?
Mainly existing, although we are always open to new collections especially if we feel that there’s something we are missing. Did you spend more or less than you planned? Of course we spent more! Do you reckon department store closures will benefit independents? Yes, and that’s another reason why we have recently launched Mother of the Bride instore. In our area alone, we’ve seen the closure of John Lewis and we are set to lose Debenhams shortly, too. We are now able to offer the same level of service to Mums of the bride and groom, as well as other members of the bridal party, that we offer to our brides themselves. Will 2020 be a good year for bridal? It certainly seems to look that way…
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THE PANTILES BRIDE Where: Tunbridge Wells Year opened: 1997 Main labels carried: Enzoani, Jesus Peiro, Sassi Holford (since we first opened 22 years ago!), Suzanne Neville (for 20 years) and Willowby. Average price achieved over the past year: £2,500 Busiest month in the past year: Unbelievably, December! We doubled our target for that month which put us ahead of our annual target by about 10%. Has business been better or worse than expected – and what do you put it down to: Better in the sense of selling more and a higher conversion rate and at a higher average price point. I put this down to how we qualify and pre-sell to our brides and particularly charging for Saturday appointments. I would prefer three quality appointments rather than a packed diary of eight who are “just getting ideas” and just wearing out my carpet and my team. We are a tight team of three who have 18, 19 and 28 years’ experience in bridal so we’re pretty skilled. Worse in that the brides are more demanding and are still taking longer to make up their minds. And don’t get me started about what happens on fittings days! Silhouette most in demand: There isn’t one! The trend is for comfort over corsetting with more relaxed, outdoor weddings trending at the moment. Have brides been challenging your pricing? Not at all. When they make an appointment we’re very transparent over pricing and what our average price point is. If they want to spend under £2,000 (unless it’s Willowby) we direct them to our sister shop Go Bridal. At the other extreme my customisation queen – Alexandra – did a £13,000 bespoke Sassi Holford complete with monogrammed veil; this was also what helped our bumper December! Have you bought more or less than in previous years? Much, much less as we dropped three brands this year.
Two of them we had carried for 18 years. Sadly, for two to three years they hadn’t been giving a good enough Return on Investment and one label was making unrealistic demands for minimums so the time was right to say goodbye. Which trade events have you visited? London Bridal Week, Barcelona and Harrogate. Harrogate – was it good for you? Most of my buying had been completed for this year. However, I was at Harrogate to buy for Go Bridal where I am venturing into Prom so needed a couple of days to get my head around that market as I have my ‘L’ plates on there! Were you planning to look for new names? As well as prom I’m open to a label that would complement and not compete with my existing brands as that would just confuse my bride and increase my costs. Do you reckon department store closures will benefit independents? Not many department stores have carried bridal over the past few years so I don’t think that it will make a difference. Will 2020 be a good year for bridal? There is a certain ring to ‘2020’ and lots of weddings planned for 20.06.20 so possibly it will be a good year. If a retailer keeps their costs down and
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focuses on Return on Investment and measures conversions as a KPI (Key Performance Indicator) then I think that any year can be a good year.
MISS BUSH Where: Ripley, Surrey Year opened: 1988 Main labels carried: Jesus Peiro, Suzanne Neville, Lilly Ingenhoven, Eliza Jane Howell, Anna Kara. Average price achieved over the past year: £3,000+ Your busiest month in the past year? Revenue, June and August; number of weddings, May. Has business been better or worse than expected – and what do you put it down to? Better; strong branding, unique identity, status as a destination retailer, excellent sales and customer service personnel and a highly-skilled atelier. What percentage of your brides are planning to marry abroad? Circa 15% Silhouette most in demand: No single standout silhouette, bestsellers range from fitted to soft to full skirted dresses. There is a stronger trouser and jumpsuit presence than ever before. Accessories? Veils by the dozen, a steadily growing headdress offer (nowhere near yesteryear but showing a move away from flowers) and the odd pair of shoes here and there. Your opening days/hours: Monday to Saturday, 9am to 6pm, Tuesday evenings for fittings, Sunday evenings and VIPs by demand. Have brides been challenging your pricing? No, very few cases of price comparison but the products are all now unique, bespoke and customisable so less prone to suffer from the discount culture. Have you bought more or less than in previous years? Far, far less samples. Which trade events have you visited? None since Harrogate 2018. Direct meetings with the brands at their own events work far better for me. Do you reckon department store closures will benefit independents? Our competition hasn’t been from department stores for years. Will 2020 be a good year for bridal? Define bridal. I think the strong shops will continue to do well, hobbyists will struggle and those approaching the ‘10 Year Itch’ will be looking to their break clauses. Sadly, in the brutal commercial climate the strong tend to get stronger and the weak get weaker.
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E L L IE ’ S
New P L AC E ON SHOW Every area of Ellie’s new Woodstock store has been carefully thought out
I
have written about ROI in the past and referenced it to stock but in this article I want to reference it to renovations and shop openings. Having recently opened a new boutique in Woodstock, Oxfordshire, this subject is still buzzing in my head. At the end of the day, it all comes down to pound notes and common sense. Crunch your numbers, create a budget and determine what you can afford to spend on your renovation with a return time in mind. Even if the bank will lend you £45,000 to renovate or open up a shop, that is not a financial indicator for what you should spend.
Return on Investment is something Ellie Sanderson feels is key to any business scenario. She’s spent years working with start-up businesses ensuring that before they spend one pound they have fully considered what its return will be Remember, every financial investment has to have a financial return. It is also vital to consider what needs to be renovated or upgraded: be clear and unemotional about the plan, learn when to draw the line between what’s desirable and what’s essential. Almost any renovation will add value, or at least protect the value of your brand. New start-ups have to establish a brand profile and, at the same time, goodwill value of the business. So getting your money’s worth is vital. Renovating your current space You may be renovating and rebranding at the same time which is a good way to do it. I always say be careful not to throw the baby out with the bath water at this stage. Upcycling current fixtures and various
pieces is a great way to save money and adding some new statement fittings can be just as refreshing. I always think It’s about evolution not revolution. Don’t let the desirables take over. If you plan to move within a few years, you must question whether the renovation is worth it. Will it pay to have expensive new fixed items when your business may need to re-locate and they won’t be making the move? Starting up a new business – think long-term It’s best to take a long-term view when you’re starting up because your needs are bound to change as time goes by. What your business needs in year one will NOT be what it needs by year three. Trust me, I learned the hard way; I burst out of my space after 18 months and had to re-lay
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SPEND WISELY Relocating, or expanding? Think carefully about what fixed fittings you invest in
your clients will see when they enter the premises and how they will feel. Do a pinterest board of all the things that excite and inspire you; test them out on others. Know what’s possible. Talk to lots of builders and professionals; check out their ideas, get three quotes for everything. Decide what you can do Evaluating your return yourself, what others can help you I always think retail space needs to be modernised every 30-36 months... to do. Do the maths. Most skilled labour more if your space has high traffic. charge £250 a day plus materials. So how much should you spend? Create a plan that has labour costs This is not as easy as it seems. I and material costs. You may not be suggest between £5-£8 per square able to change much about the labour foot. That includes, walls, ceilings, costs but you will be able to shop upgraded lighting, flooring, curtains and soft furnishings. It doesn’t include smart for materials. Once you have the numbers, re-building space or adding new loos do your financial plan and project etc. If your shop is 750sq feet then your ROI. This is the point where it is expect to spend between £4k and essential to make sure you are not £6k. If your shop is 1,000sq feet then spending more than you should. expect to spend £5k to £8k. Pick your suppliers. Work with those who understand your needs, How soon should you expect it to who you feel you can trust, who were pay for itself? No longer than 24 months, otherwise speedy with quotes. It may not always be the cheapest, but solid people you will be paying for the next who will work Sundays and late nights modernisation before you’ve paid are worth their weight in gold. Have all off the last one. ROI is a simple case work certified, if they can’t do that – of evaluating how much additional sales you have taken as a result of the don’t use them. Get it in writing. Simple really – get upgrade, minus what have you spent. it all in writing and check on costs as Or it can also be a case of evaluating what you would have lost if you hadn’t you go. You will no doubt ask for extra things to be done so make sure you upgraded your premises. get a quote for those too. Don’t be surprised when asked to pay some The process money up front but don’t pay it all. Establish your plan and visual ideas: Agree the time lines. Build in time Do a layout sketch, consider what and re-furbish. Try to build the most flexibility and long-term usefulness into your plans. Factor in your sales being double in year two compared to year one and then look at what you are about to do to the space – does it work for you?
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for ‘builders’ slippage’ – you know what I mean, it’s when they juggle two jobs and your project slips. Agree a date for your opening/re-opening. Make this a non-negotiable part of the deal, consider offering an incentive to the team to finish on time. Inspect as you go. Don’t wait until the end to say you don’t like it. Keep a close eye on the finish etc and put in an appearance at the end of every day to check out that day’s achievements. Give the final thumbs-up. Make sure you snag the project before you hand over the final monies or you will never see them again. I honestly believe that getting it right is all about being canny with your cash, I am proud to say that my gorgeous new shop in Woodstock which is 1,000sq feet cost me £3.8k and I am totally delighted with it. Fixed £800 flooring – purchased from B and M (includes fitting) £200 new window. £1,000 wallpaper, paint – purchased in B and M and Amazon £300 Lighting – Amazon (my one indulgence) £450 spot lights – electrician’s bill and fittings total fixed items £2,750 Transferable £400 signage £450 Soft furnisings, TKMaxx, Sue Ryder on Amazon £100 new mannequin covers £100 shelves and frames- Ikea total transferable items £1,050 TOTAL £3,800 That will be paid for within the year. So, before you borrow money from the bank, or stick it all on a credit card, first evaluate what your vision is, how much you should spend using the rough calculator and don’t blow the budget. I will be honest and say mine was £3500 but I just had to buy the most amazing lights; always build in ten per cent for those little items that you just gotta have.
Ballgowns
Forget the big skirts and bustiers of yesteryear, the new season’s ballgowns are tailored and detailed, sleek and contemporary… just what a modern-day princess wants
E LBE TH G I LLI S Style: Vivian D4019 Fabric: Mikado Colours: Ivory Special features: High bateau neckline, deep V armholes, plunging back and hidden pockets. All that and a detachable statement bow! Size range: Made to measure RRP: £2,024 T: +27 21 423 2220 E: info@elbethgillis.com W: elbethgillis.com
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L A DY B IR D CO UT UR E Style: 220-406 Fabric: Lace over tulle over organza Colours: Ivory/nude/gold Special features: Full rippled skirt, illusion back, plunge illusion neckline, heavily embellished bodice and skirt Size range: UK 6-34 RRP: £2,025 T: +44 (0)1423 876380 E: Richard.lill@lionheartportfolio.com W: ladybird.nl
SOTTE RO AND MI DG L EY Style: Allen Lynette Fabric: Tulle skirt, Swarovski crystal embellished bodice Colours: Diamond white or ivory with pewter accents; nude with rose gold Special features: Half sleeves, illusion bateau over sweetheart neckline, Size range: UK 2-30 RRP: £2,025 T: +44 (0)151 482 3000 E: contactus@maggiesottero.com W: maggiesottero.com
RO NA L D JOYC E Style: Carola, 69472 Fabric: Tulle skirt, Swarovski crystalembellished bodice Colours: White, or ivory/Champagne Special features: Sparkle tulle ruffled layered skirt Size range: UK 6-30 RRP: £1,700 T: +44 (0)1636 593483 E: enquiries@ronaldjoyce.co.uk W: ronaldjoyce.com N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 33
MO RILEE Style: Reina, 2082 Fabric: Satin skirt, net and lace bodice Colours: Ivory/Champagne; ivory/ivory or white/white Special features: Deep V-neckline and illusion sleeves with Alençon lace appliqués, pearl and crystal beading. Also available with full-front bodice lining Size range: UK 2-30 RRP: £1,500 T: +44 (0)1636 700889 E: ukmarketing@morilee.com W: morilee.co.uk
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L E PA P IL LO N BY M O DECA Style: Hope Fabric: Tulle skirt and lace Colours: Blush blue; ivory Special features: A flowing pleated skirt and subtly coloured lace along the neckline that adds a floral touch Size range: EU 30-56 RRP: £1,600 - £1,900 T: +31 854 899 270 E: info@modeca.com W: modeca.com
ronaldjoyce.com
CORRINEA
ALLUREBRIDALS.COM
G LI TTE RING P RI ZES
British Bridalwear Designer of the Year
Feels pretty good when you are declared a finalist in any awards scheme, but especially so in the long-running Bridal Buyer Awards. But it doesn’t get much better than walking away with that coveted trophy on the big night THE WINNERS Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – England Pure Brides, Norwich Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – Ireland Peony Bridal, Hillsborough Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – Scotland Olivia Cameron Bridal, Falkirk Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – Wales Laura May Bridal, Cardiff New Bridalwear Retailer of the Year Adella Bridal, Norwich
Bridalwear Manufacturer of the Year Morilee Occasionwear Supplier of the Year Gill Harvey Collection Bridal Accessories Supplier of the Year Miranda Templeton Bridesmaid Manufacturer of the Year True Bride Best Supplier Customer Service of the Year Enzoani
“It was an honour to win this award which is dedicated to British design. Designing and producing in the UK is at the heart of the Charlie Brear brand. In a category with many other great designers nominated I was thrilled to win, thank you!” Charlie Brear
New Bridalwear Retailer of the Year
Marketing Campaign of the Year Enzoani Emerging Brand of the Year To the Nines
Long-standing Retailer of the Year Ellie Sanderson Bridal Boutiques
Employee of the Year – Supplier Laura Hodson, Customer Service Advisor & Accounts Administrator, Retailer Customer Service of the Year Rachel Allan UK Ltd Emma Hartley Bridalwear, Colne Wedding Dress of the Year Symphony Retailer Website of the Year Romantica of Devon Ellie Sanderson Bridal Boutiques Best In-Store Design Ian Stuart Blewcoat, London Employee of the Year – Retailer Danielle Wallace, Bridal Stylist, Emily Bridalwear, Sheffield
British Bridalwear Designer of the Year Charlie Brear Student Designer of the Year Jenna Martin
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“It’s just incredible. We were in total shock! There were some amazing retailers in our category and we really didn’t expect to win at all so we are over the moon! It took a while for it to really sink in. So much hard work goes on behind the scenes to give brides the experience that we offer and it feels amazing to have that recognised by some of the best in the industry.” Amy King, Adella Bridal
Long-standing Retailer of the Year
“I was utterly stunned to win best retail website for the fourth time and second year in a row. I am hugely driven to ensure our clients have the right experience on our site and constantly look for innovative ways to improve their journey through it. “I was still revelling in our Best Retail Website win when they called our name for Best Long-Standing Retailer. I didn’t really feel worthy given the other
finalists who have been working in the industry longer. “I know that my contributions to magazines like Wedding Trader and Bridal Buyer together with coaching has had a positive impact but I was totally blown away with this incredible award. I attribute it to my team, who are loyal, patient and utterly proud to do what they do. They are what makes everthing special.” Ellie Sanderson
Retailer Customer Service of the Year
Employee of the Year – Retailer “For the business to win an award is incredible, for it to be an award for an employee, to be recognised within the industry is amazing. “I entered Danielle because she champions our ethos continually, with high conversion rates and fantastic customer feedback; she was an easy choice in my eyes! She also deserved the recognition for being a woman who is a mum still making huge achievements in her career. Regardless of the time she spends with us, she still makes a huge impact on our business. For women to see that you can still make waves in your chosen field on
less hours is not only inspiring, it is necessary to break down the barriers that mums face in their working lives. A woman should never feel she has to choose to be a mum or have a career, she can have both, although a little different, it can still be rewarding and she can still achieve great things.” Emily Harrison, Emily Bridalwear “When I heard my name being read, it felt like I was dreaming. What a feeling, it is the biggest compliment and achievement I have ever received.” Danielle Wallace
“We are absolutely delighted to have finally got back on that stage after winning Bridal Retailer in 2006. Having entered every year for 22 years I know it’s not that simple! “On the night we were finalists for three awards and had already clapped politely as two of them went to other retailers; Customer Service was our last chance. I had already had a Champagne celebration with my team to celebrate being finalists and had prepared them and myself for coming away empty handed. When our name was read out I was shocked but delighted. My girls were on their feet but it took me a second to register we really had won. Then all hell broke loose as we whooped all the way to the stage. It was an amazing feeling to be up there with my fabulous team, I was so happy to win Best Customer Service, we have worked hard to up our game and it was such a special moment to have our efforts recognised.” Emma Hartley
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Best In-Store Design
Occasionwear Supplier of the Year “I was in complete shock as winning the award was such a surprise.” Gill Harvey
“When we heard our name was announced as the winner for Best In-store Design, we felt so proud and honoured to be singled out for such an award. Ambience, and experience for the client is paramount and it is such an honour to be praised for that.” Ian Stuart
Employee of the Year Supplier
Bridal Accessories Supplier of the Year “Totally stunned just about sums it up! As winners last year we had absolutely no expectations this year. Claire and I just sat looking at each other in utter disbelief. Needless to say we are completely delighted and overwhelmingly proud of our little team. After a successful show, a Bridal Buyer Award was the very sweet icing on the cake.” Melanie Metcalfe, Miranda Templeton
Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – Wales
“I was completely overwhelmed when we won. We really didn’t expect to pick up the trophy for the second year. We love what we do and winning this award just confirms to us we are doing something right. From the moment they announced our name to taking us for a quick interview I couldn’t stop shaking. And we haven’t stopped celebrating since!” Laura Cable and May Pearson, Laura May Bridal 40 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9
“Being nominated for the supplier Employee of the Year award was a real honour, and working in accounts it’s certainly not an award I ever expected to win! I have forged great relationships with all our customers, and was so humbled to read the testimonials that were submitted by them. I’m so lucky that I have been recognised for doing the job I love, in an amazing industry, whilst working with the wonderful team at Rachel Allan.” Laura Hodson, Rachel Allan
Best Supplier Customer Service of the Year Marketing Campaign of the Year “Being the first year of the Marketing Campaign of the Year category, we didn’t know what to expect. The other finalists were so strong, we absolutely didn’t think we would win. The moment our name was read out is a bit of a blur. What made it so special was the whole European Marketing team were there to share the moment. We all just went crazy cheering and jumping up and down. We most definitely did not play it cool… which just shows how much it meant to us. Marketing tend to stay in the background so it’s amazing to be recognised for all the hard work the entire global team put in every day. I’m so proud to be part of such a passionate and dedicated team. Go Marketing! “ Tracie Williams, Enzoani Europe
Bridalwear Manufacturer of the Year “We are so proud to be named Bridalwear Manufacturer of the Year. It means so much to us that the judges picked us and appreciate all the hard work that goes into our designs and customer service. This really is a massive team effort by everyone at Morilee and we will strive to continue to be the best and make all our brides’ dreams come true.” Graham Connell, Morilee
“It’s no secret that delivering outstanding Customer Service has always been at the root of Enzoani since we opened, always striving to deliver the best possible service in every department. Being a finalist, every year has been amazing, and so encouraging for the team, but equally heart-breaking in prior years when we’ve not come home with the award and seeing their genuine disappointment when they work so incredibly hard to deliver the best service they possibly can. Wondering why, what else can they do to support our customers better? “This year, to hear those words, ‘The 2019 Supplier Customer Service of the year goes to Enzoani’ was an incredibly emotional moment. Very precious and still fills my heart with pride thinking of it. I wanted to shout it from the roof tops, hug and squeeze every single member of the team (even though most were five hours away), hence a significant volume of Enzoani Group Chat social media screaming, emoji and emotional communication going on until the early hours on awards night! “Team Enzoani are like family, we genuinely do like each other (quite a lot) and the pride, respect and support for each other is incredibly special. Let’s just say on our return to the office we had our own party, involving plenty of cake and speeches. Huge shout out to Jade Yee, our inspirational, awesome Customer Service Manager who already is looking how she can take her team onwards and upwards even further! I for one will not forget the 2019 Awards in a hurry and neither will the team. So overwhelmingly proud! “ Jeanette Stevens, Managing Director, Enzoani Europe
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Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – England
“I was and still am completely stunned to have won – we were up against so many amazing companies, all of whom I admire and am inspired by, so when our name was announced I was speechless for a moment as it was genuinely so unexpected. It is such a huge honour and truly is the most highly-respected award in the industry and so to have been considered a worthy winner just blows my mind!” Anna Hare, Pure Brides
Wedding Dress of the Year of the Year
“I was absolutely thrilled when our name was announced - not for me but for the whole team. I know what the design and marketing departments put into both the dress design and the marketing of it. As the award voted for by brides it is one that means a huge amount to us.” James Waddington, Romantica
Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – Scotland
“I’m still absolutely in shock. We’re just a wee shop in Falkirk so for our peers to vote for us to win is really amazing. It’s an honour to win it. Thousands of shops enter, but they got it down to five for Scotland. Unfortunately I was unable to make it down for the 42 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9
awards, so we had to sit and watch it on Twitter. “We won the Scottish VOWS in 2016 and we’re in that every year, but to win this is different as it’s industry driven.” Fiona Smart, Olivia Cameron Bridal
www.morilee.co.uk
REBECCA
Is the threat of buying online really a threat? Myrna Plaisir Daramy, hot from the New York shows, looks at the ramifications of the latest bridal buying habits industry after experiencing my own salon owners have struggled to adapt. bridal gown shopping experience in The overall consensus that I hear 2005, I couldn’t believe how untapped from bridal salon owners in the US is it was in terms of using the web! Even that while foot traffic has decreased, though magazines the amount of were the primary time it takes to source that brides convert brides into The path to surviving used at the time in customers has and thriving will be to order to learn about increased. bridal fashion, Quick revenuedeliver on the values that designers or store generators like information, there trunk shows or your brides want was a growing sample sales n an industry that is deep-rooted popularity of are no longer in tradition, high-touch service, websites like TheWeddingChannel performing like they used to and and saying “yes”, I find it very brides are now expecting special interesting that bridal retail owners (acquired by TheKnot) and TheKnot incentives every time they make are experiencing so many challenges (now acquired by WeddingWire ). At the time, bridal salon websites an appointment or come into a when it comes to keeping up with were very basic and everything relied store. Gone are the days of a oneconsumer behaviour and the way on a physical transaction like making appointment bride who makes brides are shopping these days. a phone call or visting a store in order her decision fairly easily, for she is But if anything had the potential to rock the boat and change tradition, to get any real information. Everything now equipped with an arsenal of technology would be the thing to do it seemed like it was top secret and the information and a plethora of options. She is also no longer for several reasons – consistent rapid main source of any insight was the bridal salons. geographically restricted. Those change, convenience, accessibility, options have now expanded into the and instant gratification. The sad online market space giving brides the reality is that although wedding dress Fast forward alternative to skip the in-store gown trends and styles have changed over While Generation X’ers, Millenials, shopping experience altogether and the years, the process of shopping for and Generation Z brides have fully a dress in a brick and mortar store has embraced the digital age and all that purchase a wedding dress in the technology has had to offer in order to comfort of her own home. remained pretty much the same. make wedding planning easier, bridal Initially, the sale of wedding When I first entered into this
I
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dresses online was essentially targeted towards the budgetconscious bride looking to save money by buying a used or preowned wedding dress. E-sale is only a small slice of the $80 billion global bridal industry. According to The Knot’s Real Weddings study which surveyed 14,000 couples married last year, only 4% of brides wore a used gown. There does appear to be a slight increase in interest, as Google searches for “used wedding dress for sale” has increased over the past five years. E-commerce platforms like Bhldn, Anomalie, Bluethread Bridal, and Floravere along with designers like Amsale and Anne Barge are entering the e-commerce space in the hopes of shaking up the digital marketing space by offering brides online alternatives to buying pre-owned. What does this all mean for bridal retail? Although this information can seem extremely daunting and very overwhelming, I don’t want it to scare you. Instead, I want to view this as valuable insight that will assist you in making better decisions moving forward into 2020. First off, I think it is important to give this segment of the bridal industry a little grace due to how unique it is. Wedding dress shopping is considered the most intimate of all shopping journey experiences and seems to fester up a lot of emotions. It is also the only segment that has to entertain an average shopping party size of between three and ten who are all expecting a glass of bubbly, even though only one person is converting into a customer – unless, that is, you are one of the salons that carry bridesmaids’ dresses and occasionwear in your offering. Secondly, I think it is important to understand that shopping for THE dress has become a social outing that includes the bride, her mother, or anyone who she considers as part of her inner circle. It is a celebratory
event that is now woven into the fabric of the wedding experience. Last and most importantly, it is essential to focus on your strengths as a retail store and consistently promote those strengths. I believe it was Oprah Winfrey who said that the best business lesson she ever learned was to “run your own race.” By running your own race and staying focused on what you do best, your business will continue to succeed. You need to provide insight that not only solves the problem the bride has (which is finding her dream dress,) but you need to go one step further and solve the problem’s problem (insecurity, vulnerability, trust, feeling overwhelmed). Confirming your value Despite the popularity of online sales, the majority of brides still want a personalised experience and will pay for a high-end, in real-life interaction. Showcasing the experience your bride will have by shopping at your store needs to be relayed through the messaging of your website as well as
any digital touchpoint. As I mentioned in the last issue of Wedding Trader, focusing on how you can extend the customer experience digitally is key. Ignoring the customers’ desire for flexibility and affordability is no longer an option. That is why the path to surviving and thriving will be to deliver on the values that your brides want. Be open to diversifying your offerings and providing flexible options for your customers such as allowing brides to try on at home. Connect with local platforms like Find Your Dream Dress and take notice of global opportunities like Style Locator, a bridal shop members-only online consignment solution that takes away the worry of going e-commerce, and guarantees more control and profit than traditional consignment. By staying on top of what is happening online, creating consistent messaging about your value, and being open to diversifying your business model to incorporate an e-commerce option, your bridal retail salon will challenge any threat.
GET HER ATTENTION You have to get your messages right and deliver what you promise
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VARIATIONS ON A THEME Loop the loop, that’s the latest and the greatest bit of inspired design thinking from designer Carlos Saavedra for Dessy, the brand that totally gets what bridesmaids want
T
The concept comes from a very ake one dress, in seven talented designer, Carlos Saavedra, colours, six sizes and an who grew up in Puerto Rico and, at amazing 13 different ways to the tender age of 14, secretly took wear it; the loop dress has his first sewing lessons with his best to be one of the key stories of the friend’s new season; the fabric is wrinkle-free and machine There are 13 ways to wear mother. washable, and each dress the loop dress which is set The result, a surprise comes in a see-through carry pouch with an to retail at just £115 for the dress for his own mother, instruction card giving all midi version and £125 for and the start the style options. Can the of a passion story get any better? full length for fashion Oh yes, the loop dress that has stayed with him ever since. is set to retail at a highly attractive Soon after finishing his studies £115 for the midi version and £125 for full length. And that is seriously good at New York’s Fashion Institute of news to retailers and their customers. Technology (FIT), Saavedra broke into
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the accessories market, designing his own signature line of scarves and he later worked as Creative Director for the London-based Lulu Guinness brand, then as Head Designer for Kooba Handbags; Vice President of Design for Ralph Lauren Handbags/ Accessories and, most recently, with Henri Bendel as Design Director. His love for fashion has now gone the full circle with this stylish dress for Dessy that is perfect for every occasion – the ultimate convertible. Check out youtube.com/user/ dessygroup for all the possibilities For information contact Michele O’Neill on +44 (0)1909 774471
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FAVOURITE THINGS Well the Gin Bar certainly scored points at Harrogate – thanks go to Peter Posh. And the five retailers we talked to relished the opportunity to meet friends old and new
Jessica Letheren
Allison Jayne Swansea, Cardiff and Bristol
1
We loved the Bridal Buyer Awards – as always. And we thought David Emanuel was a great host!
2 We loved the gin bar and we took away a gin glass as a souvenir.
3 The Maggie Sottero suite was
inspiring; we loved the collections, the one-on-one social media advice and the catwalk shows.
4 The Justin Alexander suite was
extremely educational, they brought in external social media specialists, talked about their designs…and all that in addition to a beautiful selection of the newest dresses.
5 The Ellis stand stole the show for
us. Their stand is always lively, they’re such generous hosts and their new collection was amazing; the epitome of British Bridal, see right.
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Rebecca Doyle Isabella Grace Tunbridge Wells
1
We have just taken on Stella York so bought our first collection in from them.
2 Some gorgeous veils from Nieve
Couture and Joyce Jackson, left – lots of single-tier veils with a lot of 3D flowers and embellishments. Lovely!
3 Catwalk shows – loved the buzz of
these and always good to get an idea of the latest trends and styles.
4 VIP Lounge and Champagne Bar – always a favourite on our trip.
5 Catching up with fellow retailers and comparing notes.
Maria Kelly
The Confetti Box, Eccles, Manchester
1
Viewing all the new gowns from our top designers.
2
The Champagne Bar .
3 Sitting on the Jupon stand drinking Champagne and wearing their new tiara Megan – so funny.
4 Being invited to join the
Maggie Sottero team at the Bridal Buyer Awards and then speaking to David Emanuel.
5 The opportunity to network – we love that!
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Anneleise Jones Chameleon Bournemouth
1
I picked up a fabulous new designer, Madi Lane, below. I’m so excited to be working with this Australian label who has an amazing array of modern laces, on-trend designs and some stunning dresses for the curvier girl.
2
Loved the Essense sweetie stand. This should be a pre-requisite for all designers wanting to exhibit at Harrogate!
4 I enjoyed the awards dinner. It
3 I loved attending the RBA
5 I enjoyed seeing the dresses on
committee meeting. I’ve just been appointed to the board so I’m excited to work with the other committee members who have a wealth of experience. It was so lovely to chat about how shops from up and down the country can improve their offering and customer experience.
was lovely to see the excitement and pure emotion from some well-deserved winners.
the catwalk. Harrogate has such a beautiful theatre where the gowns can be shown off to their full potential. PS: It’s always such a pleasure to catch up with other shops and meet new ones!
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Maria Musgrove Go Bridal Tunbridge Wells
1
My first favourite has to be buying prom for the first time with my 15-year-old Generation Z daughter Isabella, both of us Prom ‘virgins’. We were guided gracefully and patiently by Teresa and the team at Tiffanys and Petronela at Mascara.
2 The Gin Bar! 3 The sensationall blue Alexandra prom dress from Tiffanys, right.
4 Ms Generation Z, all-over-Insta
daughter loved the presentation and organisation and layout of the Halls and how accurate and helpful the maps and show guide were. Mmm... something we old timers/baby boomers take for granted. Well done Wendy Adams, Georgia and the rest of the team.
5 Awards Night. David Emanuel
was professional, polished and pacey and a great improvement on whoever the ‘taking the piss out of bridal’ comedienne was last year! I still like hankie waving/standing on chair risking breaking your neck (or your Jimmy Choos) and the Italian geezer singing Amore best of all though! PS: My Manager Alexandra wants to know what happened to the sweetie bar. Message from Wendy – “It’s gone!”
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Copyright GOING LEGAL
W HAT YO U N E ED TO K NOW Social media and ‘influencers’ are a boon to the fashion industry – but they also represent a risk. The ease with which content can be lifted, copied, posted and shared can make the benefit of going viral a massive burden. Charlotte Kong and Stephen Sidkin of Fox Williams explain the legalities
A
n increasing concern for designers today is that images of their designs may be posted across social media platforms, without their consent and without the designs which they showcase being credited to them. So what steps can designers take to ensure that their rights are adequately protected? Who owns the copyright? Copyright subsists in online images such as photographs of a design. Protection arises automatically and safeguards images against unauthorised copying, misuse or modification, usually for a period of 70 years from the death of the copyright owner. Copyright
infringement extends to making electronic (in addition to physical) copies, for example, by uploading or downloading a copyrighted work, or posting an image to social media without the consent of the rights holder. It is important for any user of social media to understand who owns the copyright of the images which they post. Confusion in relation to copyright ownership has seen high profile celebrities – such as Gigi Hadid – become subject to infringement claims for posting photographs of themselves to social media, of which they are alleged not to have owned the copyright. In a similar fashion, designers may not always own the copyright of
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online images, even if the images are of their own designs. The initial owner of copyright will be the creator of the work. If, for example, a designer commissions a photographer to take photographs of a dress which they have designed, the photographer will own the copyright of the photographs by default, unless there is an agreement in place which provides to the contrary, or the photographs are produced in the course of employment. What to do when copyright is infringed If a designer owns the copyright ofphotographs of their designs, they may consider taking the following actions against an infringer: Contact the infringer Where possible, the first step should involve sending the infringer written notice that their actions constitute infringement and asking them to remove the content. Sometimes, simply putting an infringer on notice, either by way of a ‘cease and desist’ letter or more informal communication from the rights holder, can be effective. Submit a takedown request Most social media platforms have systems in place, usually via submission of an online form, for any member of the
public to make a complaint in respect of content posted online on the basis that it infringes another party’s intellectual property rights, and request that it be removed. Usually, such processes are fairly user-friendly, although success is variable and will invariably depend on how obvious the infringement is. Bring a claim for copyright infringement If a designer faces repeated infringement by a particular user, or infringement is having a serious impact on the designer’s business, the designer could consider issuing a claim for copyright infringement. However, depending on the financial position of the infringer, a designer may not recover all their damages and costs (even if successful), and local lawyers in other countries may need to be engaged if an infringer is based overseas.
designer to take to such platforms in order to share their frustrations in respect of what they consider to be a misuse of their rights. Such action can be effective in attracting publicity and exerting pressure on another party to remove online content or cease taking advantage of a designer’s work or trying to pass it off as related to their own. However, it must be understood that if such action is without basis and causes damage to the reputation of another party, a designer could find themselves in the undesirable position of being caught up in a defamation claim!
Technical steps In practice, there are also technical, pre-emptive steps which can be taken to prevent images being taken without permission from a designer’s website or other online material. For example: w ‘Right click’ mechanisms can be Naming and shaming If a third-party, disabled to prevent images being copied so easily. It is also possible to for example a photographer, is the copyright owner, a designer’s options provide for a copyright notice, or a © to appear in a pop up window when a are more limited. A potential avenue user hovers over or attempts to rightin this situation may be ‘naming and click on an image. shaming’. Social media is a convenient outlet w Designers should add a copyright notice to each page on their website for businesses to communicate with to warn potential infringers that both consumers and competitors, and it would be open to an aggrieved content is copyrighted. Information
about their intellectual property rights should also be included in their website terms of use. w Images can be protected by techniques such as ‘tiling’, which breaks the image up into tiles so that anyone who copies it will only be able to copy one piece at a time, or ‘layering’, which places the image behind a transparent foreground box to prevent it from being copied. w Various plug-ins are available for most browsers to prevent photographs on a page from being screenshotted. Additional considerations Finally, when any designer signs up as a business account to a social media platform, they should check any website terms and conditions carefully so that they understand their rights in respect of content which they themselves post to that platform. They should ensure that by uploading such content, they are not inadvertently permitting a website operator to use their photographs or make their photographs available for other users to use without their permission. Charlotte Kong is an associate and Stephen Sidkin is partner at Fox Williams LLP (fashionlaw.co.uk; foxwilliams.com)
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D D Y F ! w e e v n i l e s h i T e t i s b e w
Find your en dream dress th r track down yout nearest stockis
F I ND YOUR
DREAM DRESS Use our handy tool to search through 1000’s of dresses online for all the bridal party, then click to find your nearest stockist!
www.findyourdreamdress.co.uk
FINAL TOUCHES Fine laces and intricate lace appliqués add to the appeal
Enzoani broadens its offering Despite multi award wins and accolades galore from stockists around the world, US master-brand Enzoani never rests on its very beautiful laurels. Instead, it creates another label for its dazzling portfolio 56 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9
SURPRISES Satin with lucious laces or featherlight tulles make a style statement
E
lysée is the name of the latest offering from international house Enzoani, a glamorous label that will sit and fit between the eponymous range and the much-loved Blue collection. A blend of contemporary and the classic styling, it is also rooted in tradition where the highest quality make and statement detailing are essential ingredients in the mix. “When designing our newest collection,” says Jeanette Stevens, boss of Enzoani Europe, “we wanted gowns that will feel accessible to most brides, without sacrificing the
key elements that Enzoani is so well known for. Élysée is inspired by Neoclassical art and architecture and uses modern silhouettes to accentuate the figure and contour the shape of the body.” The brand name is derived from the Ancient Greek word Elysium, a place or state of perfect happiness. Says Jeanette. “The word was chosen by the team as it references a bride’s wedding day, and the joy she feels.” Timeless and gorgeous is the more modern description, however! And Élysée, of course, sums up visions of Parisian chic.
The new range is a distinctlydifferent proposition to the other Enzoani labels, and looking to capture a significant market segment that is not currently served by the portfolio that comprises Enzoani, Blue, Beautiful and Badgley Mischka. The retail price range – £1,700-£2,500 – is highly attractive and in addition to the core 24 pieces in the range, there are no less than 14 sumptuous accessories – sleeves, veils and the 2020 favourite, capes. The size range, a comprehensive 4-34, goes across the collection but additional special sizing is available on certain styles.
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A SENSE OF SLEEK Brilliant fit that flatters and sculpts the body is integral to the Élysée proposition
Okay so the prices are ideal to attract new customers, but has anything been compromised to arrive there? “Absolutely not,” says Jeanette. “Every gown is a twist on classical forms, targeting the aesthetic of the mainstream bride. Graphic and floral laces have been used and layered over soft tulle, and there is French Chantilly lace that is perfect for those figure-flattering silhouettes. Our motto is ‘simply elegant, dramatically refined… our vision, your dream’ and that says so much.”
Great news is that Élysée will be available to bridal boutiques that are not necessarily current existing Enzoani stockists. The brand represents Enzoani’s first entry into the mainstream bridal market. It is all about high-end appeal with accessible pricing. +44 (0)1792 586615/ infoUK@enzoani.co.uk enzoani.com/en/ collections/elysee
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WINNER Best Supplier Customer Service
WWW.CATHERINEPARRYBRIDAL.COM For further details and to check if your area is available, call +(0)1443 222600 or email info@globalbridalbrands.com
TIME TO CELEBRATE A well-deserved toast to Stephanie, her family and her staff
The Big 3-O! suggested that I take over the shop, it didn’t take long for me to make my decision! Having come from a corporate background in sales, I found that I took to selling dresses like a duck to water.” You can certainly discover a lot about yourself and the great British public whilst working in retail, as plus two free bridesmaids’ dresses. tephanie Hanks, owner of We asked Stephanie to tell us a bit Stephanie learned fast. “I recognised Bride To Be of Reading knows about her bridal store, its history, and that I am quite OCD about everything how to party, planning not being tidy and organised and that has her views on the changes that have just the usual bagels-andactually stood me in good stead for bubbly event but going to town with a shaped and reshaped the industry running a bridal business!” she says. over the years. full-scale lunchtime celebration that “The public’s perception of what The business, founded by Lesley pulled in the public, promoted the wedding dress shopping should be Rathkey, was later sold to Lesley’s business, and included a prize draw, like has completely changed over daughter Stephanie. “It has been a hosted by local celebrity Sir John real labour of love and I have enjoyed the past few years. I think that it is no Madejski, which saw a lucky winner longer viewed as a shopping trip, but every minute of it! When my mum receiving £500 off a wedding dress
In August this year Bride To Be of Reading celebrated its 30th Birthday! Thirty years – that’s three decades – and a hallmark that is something of a rarity in this business
S
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THE EXPERTS Answered key questions about ways to run a better then you are business
more like the start of their wedding! “Years ago, a bride and her mum came into the shop with a couple of magazines and ordered her dress. She was happy when it was delivered, and in those days the dresses were much simpler to alter. “Nowadays our brides cannot put their phones down and they torment themselves constantly looking at beautiful airbrushed images of gowns both before and after they order their own dresses. I think there has been a significant increase in ‘change of mind’ brides!” Advice for others? Says Stephanie: “As experienced retailers, you will all be aware of the challenges that we face nowadays. However, apart from
dealing with the demands of today’s brides, I honestly think that the main key to longevity is to continuously evolve – whether it be installing the latest décor craze or completely re-fitting your lighting system, redesigning your website or arranging some staff training. It all matters. “The other crucial thing to sustaining your business is careful cash flow management. It could be so easy to get onto the ‘slippery slope’ downwards! Unfortunately, I have seen the profitability in the gowns decrease from where it was (back in my mums’ day!); brides make more visits to more shops, they expect fabulous one-to-one service, refreshments, Prosecco, a beautiful
shopping environment and to bring five guests with them to all of their appointments! “Today, bridal shop staff need to be far more competent to deal with the customer’s high expectations (and emotions!) and this in turn has pushed the wages bill upwards – add all that to increased rents and the effect starts to add up. ”Thank goodness for fantastic suppliers – the ones who treat their stockists well, look after them, support them in difficult times, and send the odd treat here and there. They are worth their weight in gold and these fab suppliers have also played an important part in our success over 30 years.”
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HELENA
WT14_Helena Cotter landscape new copy.indd 34
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COTTER
05/03/2019 17:20
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CREATE THE ENVIRONMENT The right event will introduce brides to your business
A New Approach Last month, Droitwich boutique Caroline Clark Bridal Lounge staged a ‘Bridal Extravaganza’, bringing together top-quality local suppliers to stage an exclusive event for her brides. Featuring the latest Aurora collection from Italian house Nicole Spose, it worked a treat! First, some background, when did you open your store? I have owned Caroline Clark Bridal Boutique since August 2015 after purchasing the store from the previous owner. At point of purchase I renamed and branded the boutique creating a private luxurious haven for the modern bride.
& Co. We also have bridesmaid and prom dresses by Romantica.
Were you involved in bridalwear sales, or in any other form of retail, before taking over the boutique? I previously owned a card and gift shop and provided printed stationery to brides-to-be. When I exhibited at my first wedding fair with that range of products I knew instinctively that I Which labels do you carry? We are proud stockists of Stella York, wanted to be involved with wedding Romantica, Aurora by Nicole and Ivory dresses; it was the perfect career
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for me as I had a fashion degree and a love for providing the very best customer experience. Where do you do most of the buying for your shop? The majority of our buying is done at Harrogate and London Bridal Fashion Week. As a small boutique I feel it is vital to see the collections I am interested in before I make a purchase and therefore I try to visit the shows whenever possible.
GLAMOROUS STAGING What better way to view new dresses than under the spotlight?
How did your venture, your ‘Bridal Extravaganza’ come into being? For a few years I had toyed with the idea of holding an event for brides-tobe, but it seemed pointless to think in terms of yet another wedding fair – they can be overwhelming at times. I wished to create a special event for brides to see what is planned for 2020 weddings and enjoy themselves at a fun and exciting evening out – I wanted this to be an escape from the traditional world of wedding planning. We came across Nicole Spose’s Aurora at London Bridal Fashion Week, after having already emailed the company to see what was available in the area. As soon as we saw the dresses and spoke with Rosie and Suzanne, we knew the collection would complement those carried at Caroline Clark Bridal Boutique. Right then, I knew the time was right for a big launch to celebrate the label’s arrival at the boutique. I wanted to shout out about it – I knew my brides would love it. I also wanted to
offer brides an event where they could get tips and advice from the best local suppliers and have an evening of fun where they could plan their wedding. A catwalk with a selection of fantastic and reputable suppliers seemed the natural way to go. There’s been nothing like it in the area, so the project was new in every respect. How did you start formulating your plan for change? To be honest the idea had been forming in my head and this year everything fell into place. Luckily I found the perfect venue quite easily and they were really keen to be part of it and could see the potential benefit it could bring for both of us. Once we got into discussions we were able to formulate a list of suppliers who were able to help and my designers were really keen to support the event as well. We have been saying for a while that retailers need to broaden their
approach, as you have. Now you have been there and done it, how would you advise others? Don’t be afraid to try something different. If you have an idea, do some research and find out if it will work. I think sometimes we are too quick to dismiss a concept, but you know local brides and your local area. If you have an instinct it is normally for a reason, so be ready to try something different. In a busy online society it is important to find a way to stand out and offer your brides something new. Has your Italian promotion set the stage for future special and ongoing events? I hope so, following the first Extravaganza I hope to create at least one a year. Both the brides and local suppliers seemed to benefit from the event, and liked the concept of an alternative offering. How difficult was it to pull all the elements together?
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we raised in support of St Richards Hospice and Primrose Hospice.
MAXIMISE ON ADVICE Brides have a thirst for information and the more you deliver the better
Overall the event went very smoothly. We did encounter a few problems in the weeks leading to it – the makeup artist cancelled and some of the models did not turn up to the try-on session. However, we overcame both problems by finding a replacement makeup artist and arranging another session for the models who could not make it the first time round.
Did you get the local media involved in the run up to the Extravaganza? I sent out a number of press releases prior to the event which gave us some free coverage in the local newspapers and magazines.
option than the typical overwhelming wedding fair. As the event was ticketed I think it appealed to a more focused and serious audience than just posting and advertising online or in magazines. It also was noticed by fashion-conscious brides who wanted to experience something special as the event gave them the opportunity to preview new designs before they launched in the boutique. Overall
The relationships you have forged with local suppliers – will they continue? The suppliers who participated in the event found the evening very useful and I hope to continue working with them in future. I plan that the next event will be held in a more citycentral location to add a different dimension to the offering. However we will continue to support the venue we used this time. Did you sell more dresses and accessories as a result? We have booked in an additional ten appointments as a result of the event, so hopefully yes, we will sell more dresses and accessories.
Any special lessons learned that will shape your business moving forward? So how did you get the message out Through the first experience I have to brides? I have learnt that even seen that these events are worthwhile We use a variety of promotional though it is hard work, and let brides get to know you and methods including leaflet drops, your business. The purchase of a press releases and email campaigns brides appreciate wedding dress is a big investment telling brides who we saw at wedding companies offering and for me it is all about creating an fairs about the event. We also had a extraordinary experience. That is campaign of paid and organic social something different exactly what we offered. media posts, specifically Facebook For future events I would increase and Instagram. Prior to the event, I put the number of suppliers involved to our promotional methods did the in a six-week launch strategy where provide even more variety and I’d job for us and delvered an interested I created the content in advance also ensure that the venue does not audience. and scheduled everything to go out hold any other bridal events within automatically. This combination of the same two weeks (they had held methods worked very well and meant Tell us about the charity aspect… we were able to target and attract the All along I wanted to charge for tickets an open day three days before our Extravaganza, which meant that some to ensure that the brides turned up right brides. of our potential attendees had already on the evening. It seemed natural to visited the location). give the profits to two local charities, Do you feel you pulled in a bigger Overall, I have learnt that even and newer audience than you would as I knew this would add another though it is hard work, brides have done through more traditional dimension to the event, and it would appreciate companies offering also help brides feel good about communications? something different to help them plan attending. Our Extravaganza gave brides-totheir weddings. We were delight with the £200 be a more relaxing and one-to-one
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LOVE IS IN THE AIR Give special day fabrics the care and attention they deserve. Visit propress.co.uk
LIFE CHANGING Your battery life, that is. Macman Russell Newton helps you get the most out of your iPhone, iPad, Mac, Apple Watch, Apple TV and other Apple products
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life. If you turn Airplane mode on you can still turn Wi-Fi and Bluetooth back on individually if you wish to pair with wireless headphones or use other features such as AirDrop.
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. Turn down the brightness of the screen or keyboard. The brighter your screen and backlit keys, the faster your battery will deplete. Generally, leaving these settings on automatic is good practice, but feel free to dim them further to get more out of your battery.
7
. Don’t allow apps to run in the background. In iOS go to Settings > General > Background App Refresh to see which apps are allowed to run in the background. Turn them on or off individually, or simply disallow all apps from running in the background for maximum battery life. On a Mac simply quit any apps you are not currently using. Open applications on a Mac have a little black dot below their icon on the Dock.
pple devices such as iPhone, iPad and MacBook come with high-quality rechargeable lithium-ion batteries. Due to clever software design these batteries can usually get you through a normal day of use. However, here are ten tips and tricks to help you maximise your battery’s performance.
plugged into power they don’t drain the battery at all.
3
. Turn off Wi-Fi and Bluetooth when not in use. This is an especially useful step on Apple notebook computers, but might help with other devices too. If you are not wirelessly connecting to networks or other devices, turn these functions off.
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4
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. Charge the device overnight. Regardless of how much or how little depleted your battery is at the end of the day, put it on to charge overnight. It will do no harm and you will always have 100% charge when you unplug it in the morning. . Charge it whenever you get the chance. Contrary to popular belief, regularly charging your iPhone, iPad or MacBook for a short while will not diminish the lifespan of the battery. Additionally, if Mac laptops are
. Turn on Wi-Fi! Using cellular data (3G or 4G) uses more power than Wi-Fi. Connecting your iPhone or iPad to a Wi-Fi network will actually allow your battery to last longer than using the mobile phone network.
. Use Airplane Mode. Not only is this a legal requirement on many airlines, but it also reduces battery consumption enormously. Airplane Mode deactivates all wireless communications, thus saving battery
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. Keep your software up to date. Apple software updates often include advanced energy-saving technologies, so always make sure your device is using the latest version of iOS, macOS, or watchOS. . Keep an eye on your battery usage. In iOS go to Settings > Battery to see which apps or activities are draining your battery the most. It even suggests tips on how to improve your usage.
.Activate Low Power Mode, in the Control Centre or Settings app. This useful feature will engage several battery saving techniques enabling you to go longer without a charge.
WARNING If your battery overheats, becomes swollen, or you see a message saying ‘Service Battery’, take it to Apple or an Apple Authorised Service Provider as soon as possible. It has likely just reached the end of its useful life and doesn’t necessarily pose a threat. However, there is a risk that the swelling could cause damage to your device. Additionally, if the battery ruptures it could lead to what is termed a ‘runaway thermal event’ – known as a fire to the rest of us. It is better to address the issue before it becomes a danger. Contact your nearest Apple Authorised Service Provider for further information regarding battery replacement.
Fact or Fiction Fact or Fiction: Force quitting apps by swiping them off the top of the screen improves battery life? Fiction! Double-pushing the home button (iPhone 8 and earlier) or sliding up from the bottom of the screen (iPhone X and later) takes you into the app switcher. This allows you to quickly jump between recently used apps. It also allows you to swipe the app off the top of the screen to cause the device to forget the ‘saved state’ – useful if the app is misbehaving. However, it is a common misconception that it improves battery life. Fact or Fiction: Apple intentionally throttles older iPhones so they run slower, in order to encourage you to buy new devices. Fiction! The iOS software purposefully runs a little slower on devices with ageing batteries. This is a feature that Apple added in iOS 10.2.1 in order to reduce the number of unexpected shutdowns users experience. Having the battery professionally replaced will allow the software to run at full speed again - regardless of the age of the device. You can actually disable this feature in Settings > Battery > Battery Health > Peak Performance Capability. iOS 12
actually introduced many features specifically designed to help older devices run faster than before! Fact or Fiction: You should always fully discharge and recharge your battery, rather than topping it up or partially charging it? Fiction! There is no problem partially charging a lithium-ion battery, nor charging it when it is partially depleted. In fact they are designed to be charged overnight, regardless of how much you drained the battery during the day.
TA L K I N G P O I N T S
Russell Newton is an International Apple Trainer who works all over the planet training Apple Technicians and Support Professionals. He is also one of only four AppleCare Mentor Trainers in the world, and the only one outside of the USA. He still uses a five year old iPhone 6 with original battery! You can contact him at me@russellnewton.com
Fact or Fiction: Having an unofficial battery replacement, or even doing it yourself, is just as good as getting Apple to do it? Fiction! DIY or “after market” battery replacements might be good quality and cost effective. But not always. Doing it this way might well void your warranty or cause additional issues with your Touch ID or other functionality. Always check what guarantees the service provider is offering before agreeing to a repair. Apple Stores or Apple Authorised Service Providers only use official Apple-supplied parts fitted by Apple Certified Technicians. Additionally, performing such surgeries yourself may carry risk of damage or injury.
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Jupon
September. Gary Wilkins reports
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actually start working on Harrogate in May! Poirier launches its full new collection at the Interbride show in Dusseldorf where they have a huge stand which allows them to showcase everything in their collection. I go to the German show and take photographs of the new collection and then showcase them on my social media platforms for four months before the Harrogate event. Although the professional images are on our website I still find it is better to break them down and show the new collection individually on social media. This allows bridal retailers to view the new pieces in advance and take note so that when they come to our stand at Harrogate in September, they already know what is new, have made their buying decisions and are ready to make a purchase. Buying trends The buying market is constantly changing; there is so much uncertainty at the moment and many retailers are feeling the pinch. And let’s not forget that large black cloud hanging over the UK – Brexit. With all this in mind, I think most of the suppliers were not expecting much from the show. However, when it came to it and the doors to the halls were opened, we saw a great turn out and a great mix of buyers who were more organised and driven than in recent years. This time around, retailers seemed to know what they wanted and part of that was gettng business done as quickly as possible. We spoke to a lot of buyers on our stand who were only planning to see one or two of their dress suppliers and then us. They didn’t really want to look or shop around but rather just focused on buying what they needed and returning to their shops. Accessories have been very big for Jupon especially in 2019. The new collections that we are designing are
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W ILDERLY BY ALLURE BRIDALS
AT H ARROGAT E M ODECA’S Jupon’s stand was busy and buzzing NEW STAR throughout the three days of Harrogate in Dutch house Modeca has a new name heading up the design team. Meet Alden Misolas, who says his new role gives him wings to fly
SHOW TIME With a wealth of products on display, the Jupon stand is always packed
proving to be really popular in the UK – this year alone we have sold more headpieces than ever before and it’s great to see them repeating almost instantly. Stockists have been viewing these new products on our social media platforms and other bridal shops have been sharing their images so the word or the picture is definitely getting around and to the right audience. The buyers were coming to our stand to see veils, headpieces and belts mainly; our stand was really attractive and we place headpieces that are eyecatchers
directly in the middle which always draws a great deal of attention from exhibition visitors. New looks We are constantly updating our collection and on average boast some 250 new pieces per year. Over this year, we have had no less than three new launches, starting with London Bridal Fashion Week in March. And this year we tried something different, collaborating with a top designer who also has a dress collection. He created some veils for us, which were launched in May and have been very popular. We have also added to our own collection of veils, and the reception they received, and the repeat rate, have been nohing short of brilliant. The new collection of headpieces included a ‘real flower’ range with pieces guaranteed to last up to two years. Unquestionably, this is a concept brides simply love… especially those who are going for a boho look for their big day. The rest of the collection is always a favourite, with plenty of bling. And yes, we have added even more sparkle this time round and these proved to be among our best-sellers. So how in these tough times do we as suppliers support the stockists? I think customer service has to be
paramount. We try to make ourselves available, even after hours to give out costings, stock levels and lead times and deal with any other questions that a stockist or a bride may have. Customers come first We try to have higher stock levels, and we can offer same-day dispatch on a variety of items. We all know that brides are leaving things until the last minute and want everything yesterday, so we always try to accommodate changes in shopping habits. I am also more lenient on accounts today. In the past year most of us have seen changes in buying trends – the peak times have hit earlier and the times when we should all be at our busiest have quietened down. I’m sure things will even themselves out by the end of the year. If suppliers support the stockist in quieter times they are more likely to respect and appreciate you and what you have to offer. I know it is important to recognise that we all go through bad times but it is how you deal with them that is important. T: +44 (0)1753 622 922 E: gary@jupon.com W: jupon.com
NEWCOMERS Veils are big business today and the more elaborate the better
STAYING ALIVE The ‘real flowers’ range is loved by boho brides
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T H E W E D D I N G T RA DER GUIDE TO
Thinking Pink
Somewhere in between barely-there pales and fuchsia vibes, there are any number of pinks, all feminine, all flattering, and all with their own personality ELLIE WILDE FOR MON CHERI Style: 119003 Fabric: Cracked ice tulle Colour: Rose gold Special features: Sheer illusion back Size range: US 0-26 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)1954 232102 E: katie@moncheri-bridals.co.uk W: elliewilde.com
JOHN CHARLES Style: 26586 Fabric: Crepe Colour: Blush Special features: Cowl back and beaded shoulder detail Size range: UK 6-22 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)20 8888 8833 E: info@johncharles.co.uk W: johncharles.co.uk
ELLIS BRIDALS Style: 17054 Fabric: Tulle and lace Colour: Soft blush and ivory Special features: Strapless, fishtail Size range: UK 6-28 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)20 8888 8833 E: info@ellisbridals.co.uk W: ellisbridals.co.uk
KELSEY ROSE PINK Style: 17524 Fabric: Satin-backed crepe Colour: Rose Special features: Cut out back detail Size range: UK 6-22 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)20 8888 8833 E: info@kelseyrose.co.uk BIANCO EVENTO W: kelseyrose.co.uk Style: Tiffany Fabric: Satin Colour: Ivory Size range: 10-20 RRP: Collection between £700 and £1,200 T: +49 30 330 060 59 10 E: contact@bianco-evento.com W: bianco-evento.com
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JENNIFER WREN Style: Natalia Fabric: Lace and tulle Colour: Ivory / dark rum pink / bridal pink Special features: Illusion long sleeves, lace motifs and full illusion back Size range: UK 6-32 RRP: £1,250 T: +44 (0)1823 674412 E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk W: romanticaofdevon.co.uk
HALO & CO Style: Bloom earrings Fabric: Swarovski crystals and antique gold plate Colour: Fuschia and antique gold Special features: Wow factor RRP: POA T: +44 (0)1745 403137 E: sales@haloandco.com W: haloandco.com
PURE BRIDAL Style: Jacinta Fabric: Tulle Colour: Floral Special features: Pleated detail on the bodice and waist, hand-beaded belt Size range: UK 6-32 RRP: £405 T: +44 (0)1823 674412 E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk W: romanticaofdevon.co.uk
BLUSH BY HAYLEY PAIGE Style: 1912 Phoenix Fabric: Organza and tulle Colour: Tea rose Special features: Open back, cascading ballgown skirt Size range: US 2-28 RRP: £2,750 T: +44 (0)1423 873320 E: info@jlmeurope.com W: jlmcouture.com
KENNETH WINSTON Style: Anokiart Fabric: Chiffon Colour: Available in more than 60 colours Special features: Soft cascading folds Size range: US 0-28 RRP: £230/£257 T: +44 (0)1765 530282 E: contact@privatelabelbyg.com W: kennethwinston.com
IAN STUART LONDON Style: Flamenco Flair Fabric: Olimpia taffeta, beaded lace, ombré tulle Colour: Ivory / blush Special features: Swarovski crystalbeaded bodice, four colours of tulle intricately sewn in a feathered effect. Size range: UK 6-22 RRP: £4,995 T: +44 (0)20 8761 6302 E: enquiries@ianstuart-bride.com W: ianstuart-bride.com
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MORILEE Style: 21645 Fabric: Chiffon Colours: Huge range, including a whole palette of pinks Special features: Draped v-neck bodice, skirt ruffles Size range: UK 2-30 RRP: £200 T: +44 (0)1636 700889 E: ukmarketing@morilee.com W: morilee.co.uk
DRESSED UP Style: 343GS Fabric: Stretch taffeta Colours: Pink Special features: Wide V-neck, three-quarter sleeves Size range: UK 16-18 RRP: £725 T: +44 (0)20 8502 2257 E: avril@veromia.co.uk W: veromia.co.uk /dressed-up
OLIVIA ROSE Style: Jessamy Fabric: Organza Colours: Blush Special features: Lace bodice, low V-back, handbeaded belt Size range: UK 6-32 RRP: £1,250 T: +44 (0)1823 674412 E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk W: romanticaofdevon.co.uk
SOPHIA TOLLI Style: Kaia, Y11973 Fabric: Misty tulle and sequin tulle Colours: Rose / magnolia Special features: Premiere style gown Size range: US 2-30 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)1954 232102 E: sales@sophiatolli.co.uk W: sophiatolli.com
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ENCHANTING BY MON CHERI Style: 119110 Fabric: Schiffli lace Colours: Ivory / petal Special features: Plunge back Size range: US 2-22 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)1954 232102 E: weddings@mon-cheri.co.uk W: enchantingbymoncheri.com
RONALD JOYCE Style: Thandie Fabric: Satin Colour: Rose Special features: Retro fishtail Size range: UK 6-30 RRP: £1,100 T: +44 (0)1636 593483 E: enquiries@ronaldjoyce.co.uk W: ronaldjoyce.com
RAINBOW CLUB Style: Bambi Fabric: Satin and silver fine shimmer Colours: Hot pink Special features: Colour Customisation choices: Capsule Colour Service lets customers choose from a selected range of colours in store or online; the Couture Colour Service allows for a precise match to any fabric swatch, garment or accessories for a small fee. Size range: UK 3-8 RRP: £79 T: +44 (0)1392 207030 E: shoes@rainbowclub.co.uk W: rainbowclub.co.uk
MARTIN THORNBURG FOR MON CHERI Style: Olivia 218228 Fabric: Satin Colours: Rose gold Special features: Criss-cross bodice, side pockets Size range: US 2-22 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)1954 232102 E: weddings@mon-cheri.co.uk W: martinthornburg.com
DRESS CODE Style: 1331D Fabric: Printed jacquard Colours: Pink / rose haze / smoke Special features: Waisted coat Size range: UK 8-20 RRP: £750 T: +44 (0)20 8502 2257 E: avril@veromia.co.uk W: veromia.co.uk/dress-code
SUZANNE NEVILLE Style: Flores Fabric: Hand-painted structured organza Colour: Blush pink Special features: Corseted bodice and big dramatic skirt with rouched train Size range: Made to measure RRP: £15,000 T: +44 (0)20 7589 2659 W: suzanneneville.com
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Second opinion The Harrogate Bridal Show... for many provided a very good experience indeed. Sue Lovell left the halls smiling
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he collections on offer at Harrogate were really exceptional, and the feed back I heard from so many store owners was that suppliers are really listening, and are understanding that the bridal market is challenging and changing. That they are actively looking at ways to help us meet these challenges is very much appreciated. Although their spend is probably down on previous years, I think that retailers are really focusing on their target customer, and concentrating on buying for the customer that they want to attract. So a lot of thought is being put into the purchasing this year. Every pound counts, and every dress needs to see a good return, as nothing is more disheartening than having a poor-performing gown taunting us silently from the sale rail. We can’t afford to make mistakes or take too many gambles; safe and steady seemed to be the order of the
week in this environment. of engaging with our potential The all-things-to-all-brides clients, striking up relationships, and approach may work for some gaining an understanding before the but many owners, realising that appointment takes place. Websites to adequately cover all potential are more informative and personal, purse sizes takes a huge amount and help the bride get an idea of what of expenditure on our part, are now to expect even before she books her honing in on the desired customer, appointment. We can communicate carefully attributing budgets to fulfill with our bride directly, before she the needs of even walks through the now clearlythe door, and that is Especially enjoyable identified bride. invaluable to both No longer parties. at Harrogate is the good are we trying to please company, good food, and Discussion points everyone who The subject that is planning a came up repeatedly the good humour that is wedding, but at Harrogate when we are ensuring found in abundance exchanging views that those who and chatting about come to us know before they arrive our businesses, was our need to what to expect, and understand the always change, keep up and re-invent price points we offer, and the sizes ourselves. It’s exhausting! A winning formula last year does not mean the we carry. tills will be ringing next year. Our Social media is a crucial way
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bride is changing; her buying habits, her timescales and expectations are constantly evolving, and we have to keep listening to what she expects and finding ways of providing it. After all, we are constantly reminded that if we can’t give her what she wants, there are plenty of others who will be able to. But is that really a bad thing? The key is to know what you can do well, what you can offer, and not to stress over what you can’t provide. Attract the bride you want, and you know you can help. If you don’t offer the price point she is looking for, the style she is after, she isn’t your client, so don’t worry that you can’t help her, point her in the direction of someone who you know will have what she is searching for. Brides really appreciate help and guidance, and if you can’t realistically help her find her dress with you, then don’t leave her without options, giving her ideas of where else to go – other Independents, who are perhaps a better fit for her needs. Keep her
worked, is brilliant. Recognition from the industry we represent gives so much encouragement to us all, and the joy In seeing someone celebrated for their achievements is infectious. But for me, the best part of the entire weekend is the laughter. Every bar, restaurant and hotel is filled with smiles, and nothing fills me with joy more than seeing beautiful, hard On the social side -working, wonderful women, laughing One of the most memorable aspects of Harrogate is the social side. Meeting so hard that mascara runs and lippy smudges. We are all independents, up with new people, catching up but sharing, unburdening, celebrating with old friends, and enjoying the and commiserating with each good company, good food and other makes what is otherwise a good humour that is to be found in commercial, strategic buying trip a abundance. No matter how good, real pleasure and invigorates and how mediocre, or how catastrophic inspires us to face the year ahead. your year has been, if you have been Who knows what 2020 will able to purchase a Bentley or robbed bring? But we don’t have to face the Peter so many times to pay Paul you fear your face will soon appear on the challenges alone; there is always someone who is willing to offer us a CrimeWatch wall, there will always be someone to share your highs, lows shoulder to cry on, a hand to hold or an outrageously inappropriate story and inbetweens with. that invokes laughter. And nothing To see people you admire is more welcome or more beautiful nominated for awards, and win them, after a truly testing year. when you know how hard they have pound in the industry pot, don’t send her off to line the pockets of investors in a chain store or on the internet. Make her aware of other independents who in turn support our suppliers. We may be independents, but together we all play a part in the integrity and stability of this industry.
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COORDINATION Forget the blues and greys, browns are key and matching and toning counts 78 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9
IMAGES BY CARYN MANDABACH PRODUCTIONS LTD 2019
Our menswear editor Dominic Bliss looks at the trends set by a TV series that is impacting on a sector of the formal menswear market
W ILDERLY BY ALLURE BRIDALS
Have We Reached Peak Tweed?
IMAGES BY CARYN MANDABACH PRODUCTIONS LTD 2019
Dutch house Modeca an name heading up
C
illian Murphy, aka Tommy Shelby from the hugely popular TV crime drama Peaky Blinders, admits that he and his co-stars have had more than a little impact on the tweed suits that so many British men are choosing to wear. “If something begins to affect the culture, you know you’re probably onto something good,” it is said. “We were clear from the beginning that they had to be sartorially distinctive,” he says of the characters in the show. “They don’t have that much money, but the money they do have, they spend on their clobber. Every man looks good in a three-piece suit.” The latest series of Peaky Blinders, which started airing on BBC One in August, is sure to popularise tweed formalwear even more than ever. You can guarantee British grooms will continue getting married in this Celtic woollen fabric – and its associated accessories – for the foreseeable future. If you analyse it, it’s an unusual style for the second decade of the 21st century. With its origins in Irish and Scottish field sports, where the rough, woollen fabric was warm, durable and moisture-resistant, tweed was famously sported by the upper-class Edwardian country set and their rural attendants. After the First World War, a similar look was adopted
RATHER COOL There is something distinctly elegant about the tweedy look
and then bastardised by working-class men in the cities who need a hard-wearing, resilient outfit for everyday life and manual work. Gang members loved it, too. Grooms choice? But how on earth has a Brummie gangster outfit from the interwar period now ended up – albeit in a much smarter version – on middle-class men getting married a hundred years later? You can lay much of the blame at the door of a costume designer called Stephanie Collie. It was she who worked on the first series of Peaky Blinders, basing her outfits on police mugshots of criminals taken in the early 1920s. Keen to capture that authentic period look, she opted for details such as high-cropped trousers and big lace-up ankle boots (perfect for avoiding the grimy Birmingham streets), peak caps (perfect for hiding razor blades), penny collar shirts, and showy tie clips, collar pins, arm bands and pocket watches. Fortunately, 21st century grooms are pulling off an altogether much more stylish look. Online UK fashion is now awash with tweed suits, and the designers happily admit the influence Cillian Murphy and his gangster colleagues have had. Punch the phrase ‘Peaky Blinders suits’ into Google and you will find N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 79
IMAGES BY CARYN MANDABACH PRODUCTIONS LTD 2019
they displayed their suits, waistcoats, flat caps and accessories at a festival inspired by the show called The Legitimate Peaky Blinders Festival. “I’ve decided, along with some trusted friends, to embark on a clothing adventure,” Knight says of his new collaboration. “Lots of people seem to admire the way the Peaky boys look and it’s hard to find clothes that are of the same quality and cut in conventional shops and outlets.” He stresses how the collection is a contemporary one rather than some sort of period fancy dress. “These are not costumes, they are part of a wider trend towards a new kind of men’s clothing,” he adds. “Since the 1960s the default look for men has been an imitation of American teenage boy attire: jeans, trainers, sweat shirts, T-shirts with logos etc. Nothing wrong with that, but sometimes you want to actually get dressed.” Another tweed aficionado is Dashing Tweeds, a London designer whose suits are manufactured at a mill in the Scottish Borders. “We are seeing more and more men moving away from the traditional top hat and tails, or conventional navy suits for their weddings, as these are all looks that have been repeated over and over,” says Holly Pressdee from the company.
Worth their weight She explains how tweed has always been a great choice of suit material for men who want a bit of colour to get themselves noticed. “With grooms wanting to stand out on one of the most important days of their lives, they are getting more and more creative with what they wear.” One problem with tweed suits for weddings has always been the weight of cloth – not ideal at the altar or for FROM HEAD TO TOE dancing at a reception on a warm summer’s evening. Wear again options “Tweeds were originally woven with woollen yarn in a twill could be what today’s structure, but our ways of modernising the designs are by grooms fancy using worsted (more commonly used in classic business suiting), and by weaving a range of different structures,” Pressdee adds. “So some of our lightweight designs are about 9oz or 10oz in weight, and in brighter more vivid colours; perfect for a hot, sunny wedding.” dozens upon dozens of tailors leaping aboard the tweed With so many British designers choosing this modern bandwagon. “These Peaky Blinders-style suits will have you rocking take on the Edwardian look, have we finally reached peak tweed? (Or peak Peaky Blinders, as you might like a look that Thomas Shelby would be jealous of,” says to describe it?) Since so much of the fashion industry’s London-based Twisted Tailor. money is still invested in this style, the answer is: Not yet. “The Peaky Blinders suit is something that every man Besides, Steven Knight has said there will “almost must have,” says another London retailer, TruClothing. House of Cavani, based in Birmingham, the same city certainly” be at least two more seasons of the show. The gap between each has so far been around 18 months. So, in which the Peaky Blinders ply their nefarious trade, say they are selling suits to a “growing army of fans who want with two more to come, that means that cool gangsters in cool three-piece tweed suits will be gracing our TV to emulate Thomas Shelby and his men”. screens until around 2023. The designer that has perhaps embraced the Peaky The message is clear; now is the perfect time to Blinders look more than any other is Garrison Tailors. They offer your grooms real choice, from classic tailoring to love it so much they’ve teamed up with Steven Knight, unconventional tweeds. Check out Pinterest and you’ll see the creator and writer of the TV show, to produce official the huge variety of the latter. Peaky Blinders clothing. In September, in Birmingham, 80 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9
E: admin@michaelsbridalfabrics.co.uk • T: 01322380480 • W: www.michaelsbridalfabrics.co.uk
We provide a fast, friendly and reliable service on our increasing range of products such as…. Plains • Laces • Embroidered Beaded •Tulles • Edgings • Motifs • Buttons • Accessories COME & SEE US AT: Bridal Roadshow, Droitwich, UK 1st – 2nd March 2020 Bridal Roadshow, Harrogate, UK 8th – 9th March 2020 Textile Forum, London, UK 11th – 12th March 2020 London Bridal Fashion Week, London, UK 22nd – 24th March 2020
Michael's Bridal Fabrics
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“I have to say I was quite relieved to have my first appointment at a bridal shop by myself because it gave me a real feel for procedures and also a chance to forge a relationship with the sales consultant; I don’t think I would have been able to do that if I had friends and family with me. In fact, it was not until I had actually got my dress decision down to three options, that I had a friend join me. No stress at all.”
Out of the Mouths of (Bridal) Babes... One to one, or mob-handed? Some shops have rules about the numbers attending an appointment, but what do brides themselves think? “The worst combination? Mother, mother-in-law and best friend. The two mums seemed to disagree on principle and M-in-L raised her eyes to the heavens every time I came out of the dressing room or shook her head. My BF was trying
to be constructive as was the sales lady, but both got talked over or put down by the seniors. I love my mother and didn’t like seeing her upset or her views criticised. I should never have got his mum involved in the process.”
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“I think that before recruiting an entourage to accompany you on a bridal appointment you need to have some serious discussion about the role they are playing. I had a real disaster on my first appointment at a really lovely shop. My mates got over-excited and carried away with the whole thing (I was the first of my group to get married) and they did misbehave, rushing to look through the rails and make their suggestions, checking out the bridesmaid dresses, laughing too loudly, asking for Champagne etc. I was so embarrassed and emailed the shop to apologise. After that, I only took one friend whose opinion I valued to my other appointments. It was a much better way.”
“Right. Whose decision is it anyway? And if, as promised, you have the run of the salon for your first appointment for a full hour or hour and a half, and you are prepared to spend big money on your dress and accessories, that shop’s staff should bend over backwards to keep everyone happy rather than reading the riot act and sighing deeply when you arrive. There were only five of us and the reception we had was anything but warm. The promised experience wasn’t, and they said they didn’t have enough tea cups or glasses to offer us drinks and nibbles – which I have to say I was expecting. In fact, I wanted to say to the sales girl that she needed to go to charm school and learn how to treat the very people who make a shop a business success”
“As soon as he popped the question, having shown no interest when I had suggested we formalise our relationship after eight years and two children, all I could think about was the dress. I never thought – not in a mllion years – that it would suddenly be so important. But it was. And I wanted my three close friends to be with me, my long-suffering mother and my 7-year-old daughter. I started phoning around bridal boutiques. One told me that it was forbidden (her words) to bring more than two ‘others’ with me. It was like being at school and reprimanded for being naughty. Needless to say, that shop came off my list immediately. What happened to respect for the customer? They could have got the message over in a pleasant way.”
“This is a difficult one because you hear so many different stories from brides who ran into problems with too many views being aired. I was very nervous before my first appointment and my lack of confidence would have been evident to everyone else and I think a crowd act would have made me feel totally insecure, even if that crowd was made up of my best friends. Going it alone in the early stages must be the best decision and you can get one-to-one advice from the consultants who do know what works best, after all.”
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ROUND T HE WORLD
New York The recent shows in Manhattan delivered great looks and directional design bravado. This time round, exhibitors were scattered across the city which meant time-consuming travel, but it was worth it to see spectacular offerings from international names
GRACE LOVES LACE
Metallic laces and burnout silks, alongside the brand’s first silk gown capsule - all in comfortable fits and playful silhouettes constructed with dancing in mind.
PALOMA BLANCA
INBAL DROR
Silver beading, stretch chiffon, crochet lace, tulle that’s dotted and embroidered, lots of see-through. Every dress is magical… a real fashion icon. 84 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9
Delicate lace trims, structured satin faille, and feminine floral embroidery. Chic clean lines and eye catching details such as notched necklines and bows.
INES DI SANTO
Capturing the spirit of the Impressionist Art Movement with colour, texture, the shifting effect of light, and the magic of airy transparency.
KAREN WILLIS HOLMES
Delicate clouds of lace, chiffon and tulle invoke both whimsy and drama, contrasted by form-fitting silhouettes that are both poetic and feminine.
DAALARNA
Puff sleeves and midi skirts made with layered and pulled techniques, geometric and floral motifs, as well as lace frills and pearl decorations
ROMONA KEVEZA
Minimalist silhouettes, amazing sleeves, one-shoulder gowns; a five-ply silk crepe gown with a dramatic floral print opera coat.
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A LY N E B Y R I TA V I N I E R I S
Delicate lace, intricate appliqués, flattering structured silhouettes and bold statement capes – grandness with minimalism, opulent but understated.
THEIA
Laser-cut floral petals delicately embroidered on soft tulle; ruffles in parachute taffeta, silk organza and tulle decorated with flowers. And a wondrous print.
JULIE VINO
Slick and sleek, great body show-offs. And Julie V is launching a multi-label house dedicated to emerging Israeli bridal designers. Watch this space!
LAURE DE SAGAZAN
Deliciously different, French dressing par excellence, with design highlights that triumph over the traditional in bridal and set new standards of individuality.
J U S T I N A L E X A N D E R S I G N AT U R E
From sharp and chic uptown tailoring to a romantic and whimsical softness featuring 3D florals, feathers, soft petals, billowing sleeves, and ruffles.
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LES COURONNES DE VICTOIRE
Bridal accessories from Paris – inspired by England and English roses for a Shakespearian heroine, a figure of the English aristocracy or a London punk.
SAVANNAH MILLER
With a bohemian aesthetic, classic silhouettes and pretty vintage detailing, the new collection is true to form: both beautifully feminine and timeless.
EDEM
Couture and demicouture, the fall 2020 collection draws inspiration from the foliage and flowers of French forests to create delicate handembroidered details. SAREH NOURI
From narrow sculpted oneshoulder lines, to structured ballgowns with keyhole neck detail and slender long sleeves, to statement outsize back bows. N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 87
Waking Hours Monica Poncelas heads up the PR team at Chapter Communications (previously Something Blue PR), a leading specialist wedding, parties, hospitality and lifestyle PR, branding and design agency in the UK
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epresenting some of the most pioneering brands, Chapter’s client portfolio includes the likes of Romona Keveza, Motee Maids, Party Guru Johnny Roxburgh, Rosalind Miller Cakes, floral engineers Blooming Haus, wedding gift list company Prezola, venues Millbridge Court, Alrewas Hayes, The Tythe Barn and many more
respond to or tie in with. The wedding industry has definitely picked up interest from the national press in the past two or three years and it’s enabling us to place some really great stories across both the news, fashion and lifestyle pages on a regular basis. The cost of weddings is still a hot topic but bridal fashion, trends, insights and new products that respond to shifts in consumer behaviours, are 6.20am The alarm goes off and I have a becoming more and more interesting peaceful hour to myself to get ready for to the papers and we work hard to come up with engaging news and the day ahead. I love my husband and children dearly, but this one hour is my stories to pitch to the right journalist. 7.30am Time to wake up the children! only me time so I definitely don’t want I have an 11-year-old son and six-yearto be disturbed! old daughter and we have just under an As someone who works with hour to get ready and out the door for people and clients based across different countries and time zones, it is the walk to school. It’s a bit of a military operation and we finally have it down important for me to check any emails to a tee! I’m described by colleagues, that may have come in overnight so I can plan what the immediate priorities family and friends as ridiculously organised so I’d only be letting myself are for when I reach my desk. down if I hadn’t cracked the school As I’m having breakfast, I’ll look at morning routine yet. BBC News online to keep abreast of everything on the news agenda and to 8.20am – 9am Carlito is dropped off first and then Lucia and I wander down see if there are any big or interesting to her infant school. A quick chat with stories that any of our clients can
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a mummy friend or two, then it’s home and in the car to head to the office. 9.30am I’ve been up three hours and finally I am sitting at my desk! I’ve seen the news, but when I get in, I have a quick scan of papers as well as magazines that cover bridal regularly and of course the bridal trade press for industry news. I’ll get a quick update from the team on anything across social that I should be aware of – particularly on the client side – and if there are no fires to fight there or on email, I start to work my way through my to-do list. We have just been appointed to represent two new wedding venues as well as a pop-up restaurant in Chelsea, London, so there’s a mixture of strategy and campaign planning, media and influencer events as well as the day-today running of all client campaigns to keep us busy. It’s such a cliché but there really isn’t a typical day in the life of a PR and that’s what’s kept me so passionate about the profession since I fell into it nearly 20 years ago. So many of my friends think that the
life of a PR is so glamorous – lunches and dinners with journalists, launch parties, lovely trips, but that is just a small piece of the pie. Much of the work of a public relations firm occurs behind the scenes and often, securing a fabulous story in an absolutely target title or pulling together an A-list of media guests for a client event, takes some hard graft. 11am If I’m at my desk, then obviously it’s time for elevenses. With my team, we’ll go through day-to-day client activity, prioritising, or re-prioritising as necessary. Occasionally, we’ll need to re-strategise on something completely and then get the ball rolling. If I’m meeting with the MD or Creative Director, discussion will revolve around agency wide topics – not just budgets, staff and clients, but we’ll often put a few ideas on the table about how we can work smarter, do something better or differently to keep us at the top of our game. Today, I’ve come back to my desk to find an email from a contact on one of the national newspapers looking for some commentary on a royal event that took place the day before. We are so lucky to have such a great mix of clients – from fashion to flowers, food to styling and more – that we can quickly and easily get back to journalists with strong, interesting commentary and insights from those truly in the know. The piece goes live late afternoon and it’s a great hit. If I’ve got journalist meetings scheduled, then now’s about the time I head into London – we’re based just outside of the capital in Surrey and I’m in central London in no time. I’ll try and tie up with as many people as I can, be they journalists or clients. Mid-day onwards I often catch up with my journalist network as well as constantly looking at who the agency should be establishing relationships with. Today’s journalists are so time poor and inundated with PR pitches, so it’s absolutely critical to get your story right. Doing your due diligence on their subject areas, style of copy and what they have covered recently, is
put together an exclusive media and influencer event. Press packs, goody bags, attendee list and re-confirmation of attendance, all at our fingertips, we were ready for an informal, informative evening and we could not have asked for better. A great turn out, some fantastic postevent coverage the next day and story opportunities pipelined for the coming weeks – that’s exactly what we had hoped for and we’re all delighted with the result! 6pm As soon as I walk through the door, the children greet me and start rattling off stories about their days. I do my best to take it all in whilst also trying to chat to my mum (my only source of childcare and without whom I’d be totally lost!) about her day before she heads off for some peace and quiet whilst I start getting dinner Press packs, goody bags, organised. Whilst I’m in the kitchen, Lucia attendee list, and we‘re might read to me for a few minutes or I’ll scribble down ten sums that she’ll ready for an informal, happily whizz through, and I’ll check informative evening Carlito’s homework. The children will still be chattering when my husband comes home and we usually sit down at my desk, I’ll be ploughing through as together for dinner around 7pm. 8.30pm Lucia goes up to bed followed much as I can – strategy documents, shortly by Carlito at 9pm who reads for coming up with new ideas for clients, a bit before I go up at 9.30pm to put new business, writing news releases lights out. I’ll try and squeeze in a quick or copy or looking through written Davina exercise routine in between but materials my team has put together. Not only does this serve to ensure I have to admit, I’m not that disciplined the story and contact is on brand and on the fitness front so it’s definitely not a strict part of my daily routine! that all the information is there, but it’s a learning process for the younger 9.30pm I’ll re-visit my emails and respond to anything that is members of our team. As an agency, straightforward. My brain is usually we are really dedicated to educating, training, nurturing and developing our frazzled by this time so anything external that requires too much staff to be the best they can be and whilst we never want them to leave, if thought gets marked as unread for the morning! I might then watch a bit they do, we want to feel proud of the of TV with my husband or talk about part we’ve played in getting them to our respective days, read a magazine the place they’ve reached. 5.30pm If I’ve been in the office all day, that’s just landed or a newspaper or in town, then I also usually head off supplement I had only skimmed in at this time to get home for 6pm,unless the office, or do a bit of online window shopping! of course, there’s a work event on. 10.30/11pm Lights out and some sleep Just last week, our new pop-up restaurant client launched and as well before it starts all over again with a as driving as much targeted coverage totally different work day ahead to look forward to! as possible in the lead up, we also so important and can make or break any relationship. Having quality face time with key media is a vital part of securing top-quality media coverage and meetings are usually, really effective and successful with at least a handful of stories placed every time. Similarly, if I’m catching up with clients, although we speak over the phone or by emails almost daily, we’ll discuss business over the previous few weeks, any shifts they are seeing in enquiries, news angles, competitors and more. It’s such a valuable time and often shapes any tweaks to our campaign – and something that a client has said might just make a story for one particular journalist. If I’m in London, then I’ll be going from one meeting to the next but if I’m
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payroll, office functions, customer relationship management and so on can require considerable computer power. Operations with several computers will need networking equipment, and this can be expensive if you have several branches and a head office. Stand-alone systems are your responsibility so you will either have to acquire significant computer skills or hire a geek at a considerable cost. On the upside, stand-alone software is often more powerful and has more features than equivalent online services, and because you need not connect to the internet you are more secure and power outages will not affect you. Online software systems, on the device they like – their laptops, their other hand, are available instantly. tablets or even their mobile phones. Just sign up, possibly for a free initial Security is a matter for the software period, fire up the browser on your supplier. Backups? An unnecessary laptop and you are ready to go. They chore, the hippies say. are also cheap – you pay only for the Every small business has capacity you actually need, and if you to choose between these two hire more staff you can get them on approaches. Squares buy standthe system immediately and at low alone systems that are completely added cost. However, the long-term under their control, whereas hippies simply subscribe to business software cost may be higher. One of the joys of online systems services available online. is that you always get the latest There is much to be said for both approaches, but it has to be admitted version of the most secure software, without the need to update regularly. that more and more businesses are And, because the software is running turning into hippies when it comes to on a huge computer somewhere, you software. Stand-alone systems need don’t need a powerful system. In fact, considerable investment, for a start. most online systems also have mobile apps for iOS, Android and Windows Power games 10, so you can work on a tablet or To run a complete software mobile phone when you are out and system for purchasing, invoicing,
Software Know-How When it comes to computers, are you a square or a hippy? Ask our techno man Chris Partridge
S
quares like to keep everything under control, with traditional desktop computers storing all their data inside a good, strong firewall, backed up regularly to a hard disk kept in a good, old- fashioned fireproof cupboard. Hippies, on the other hand, let it all hang out. Their software runs on a new-fangled data farm somewhere in “the cloud,” so they can work on any
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All ON FILE The latest online systems store volumes of information that is easily accessible
handles payments and receipts as chat. The system has access to with regular retail stores, but has your inventory so you can offer your additional features such as an event customers products confident that management system so groups of you have stock available. clients going to one event (the bride, Zoho also automates things such her mother and the bridesmaids, as social media sales campaigns for example) are all and can The downside to online handled collectively automate make sure there business services is that you have to are no slip-ups over workflows numbers, colours to reduce to trust them to keep and so on. Another delays your data secure and is management of sending out invoices, confidential, and you never items bought to store for the big event, or as well as know exactly who has specials that have flagging arrived early, which can up when access occupy valuable shop invoices space and keep capital tied up to the have remained unpaid. One of the great things about Zoho detriment of cash flow. The bridallive.com system is the way it gives each employee focuses on managing the shop and the information they need, from the accountant working out cash flows to the staff, covering scheduling of staff sales assistants following up on leads. and the fitting rooms, bride book Microsoft Dynamics 365 is another appointments and so on. It integrates CRM system with the added strength with iCal and Google Calendar so all staff can be aware of their timings. that is integrates seamlessly with other Microsoft products such as Office 365 and Outlook, to provide you Chris Partridge has been writing about Names to know technology since the days of wireless Take Zoho, an online CRM system that with all the tools you need. sets with real mahogany cases with There are even some online has become very popular recently. glowing valves inside, mainly for Zoho stores customer contact details software systems specially for newspapers such as The Times, the wedding shops. Take a look at and their sales history, enabling you Daily Telegraph, the Observer and the everywherebridal.com for example. to contact them by phone, on social Sunday Times. It tracks clients, manages inventory, media, by email or even computer about. Backup is the responsibility of the service provider. Because the system is accessed by a secure password, your staff can use their own devices to work at home. The downside to online services is that you have to trust them to keep your data secure and confidential, and you never know exactly who has access. It is absolutely vital to read the terms and conditions, and to research them for any past data security breaches. Often referred to as Software as a Service or SaaS, pretty much every retail function can be accessed online these days, from basic office suites such as Microsoft Office (known online as Office 365) to complex customer relationship management (CRM) systems. Indeed, many of the latest and most powerful commercial software systems have been designed from the ground up as online subscription services.
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F IND YOUR
DREAM DRESS
MOST VIEWED… BRIDAL DRESS JUSTINA BY ROMANTICA OF DEVON This beautiful dress has had one of the largest ever rushes of traffic to it on the FYD site! It seems brides can’t get enough of the stunning detailing and figure-flattering shape.
Most searched for... WHAT YOU R BRI DES A R E SHOPPING FOR O N LI N E We look at what trends brides are searching for this month on findyourdreamdress.co.uk MOST READ… BLOG FEATURE LUXE LACE DRESSES FROM BLUE BY ENZOANI Lace has taken a back seat in 2019, but if the drive of traffic to Enzoani’s lace designs is anything to go by, it could be making a big comeback in 2020.
WHAT IS FIND YOUR DREAM DRESS? Brides-to-be can use this super-helpful website that allows them to filter various categories in order to find their dream dress in among FYDD’s database. Then, the site tells the brides where the nearest boutique is to them that stocks their dress of choice. If you’re a designer and you’d like to see your collection of gowns featured here, or if you’re a boutique owner who would love to have your business included in the search results, then visit findyourdreamdress.co.uk to discover more. Alternatively, drop Martha an email at martha@meanttobemedia.com. 94 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9
MOST SEARCHEDFOR… DESIGNER ALLURE BRIDALS Allure has been the top hit this month on the FYD site. With such a variety on offer with their gorgeous collections, there’s something for every bride, no matter what her shape, style, budget or taste.
MOST SEARCHED-FOR… DRESS SHAPE BOHO Ivory & Co are one of the hottest labels around right now, and they perfectly tap into the bohemian trend. By far the most searched-for style this month.
MOST VIEWED… PLUS-SIZE DRESS W443 BY ALLURE WOMAN This elegant figurehugging gown has come out tops for plus-size brides. We love the subtle coloured underlay – a big trend for 2020.
MOST VIEWED… BRIDESMAID DRESS STYLE BB123 FROM BELLA BY DESSY Dessy has arrived on the FYD site and has made an instant impact! Bridesmaids have been drawn to this stunning off-the-shoulder dress in particular. N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 95
SAVE THE DATES ...Lots of them! Here’s a month-by-month guide to the major bridal expos in 2020... HARROGATE FASHION WEEK 26-27 January Harrogate Convention Centre Harrogatefashionweek.com
THE BRIDAL ROADSHOW 1-2 March Birmingham 8-9 March Harrogate Thebridalroadshow.co.uk
PURE LONDON 9-11 February Olympia Purelondon.com
TEXTILE FORUM 11-12 March One Marylebone London W1 textileforum.org.uk
MODA 23-25 February NEC Birmingham Moda-uk.com
ROME BRIDAL WEEK 14-16 March Fiera di Roma Romebridalweek.com
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NATiONAL BRIDAL MARKET 15-17 March 25-27 August The Mart Chicago nationalbridalmarket.com WHITE GALLERY LONDON 22-24 March ExCel, London londonbridalweek.com LONDON BRIDAL FASHION WEEK 22-24 March ExCel, London londonbridalweek.com
ONE FINE DAY 22-24 March JJ Wimborne Studios London N1 6TA onefinedaybridalmarket.com PARIS BRIDAL FAIR 29-30 March Porte de Versailles Pavilion 2.1 parisbridalfair.com EUROPEAN BRIDAL WEEK 4-6 April Messe Essen europeanbridalweek.com
SI SPOSA ITALIA 17-20 April Fiera Milano City sposaitaliacollezioni.fieramilano.it VALMONT BARCELONA BRIDAL WEEK 20-26 April 2020 Fira de Barcelona Barcelona, Spain Barcelonabridalweek.com
THE KNOT COUTURE SHOW 18-20 April 4-6 October Metropolitan Pavilion New York Knotcoutureshow.com INTERBRIDE 24-26 May Messe Dusseldorf Interbride.eu ROME FASHION WEEK 6-8 June Fiera di Roma Romefashionweek.it
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F ESTIVE T H OUGHTS The run up to Christmas provides some great promotional opportunities, says Helena Cotter
I
’m sure, like me, you’ll enjoy your well-earned Christmas and the New Year holiday this year. Historically though, bridal retail can be pretty quiet, can’t it, in the depths of winter. Although sales, promotions and offers can increase your total revenue by 10-40%, they can often prove to be
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ineffective; 20-50% of events generate no increase in sales. Another 20-30% make too little profit to offset costs. With that in mind, let’s look ahead at how you can keep winning over the festive season, with my top tips. 1 Drive traffic to your website by posting on review sites, such as Google and Yelp You can give discounts – for specific sales etc, and special offers, and promotions for the Christmas period. And of course, for future marketing. When the customer has a fabulous experience, they will write a brilliant
review of your business and service. Yelp, for example, make this easy as they allow you to post offers and promotions direct to your listing. They cover all areas of the UK. Useful links here: www.blog.cws.net/how-to-addgoogle-reviews-to-your-website-andwhy-you-need-them www.yelp.co.uk/london 2 Create a loyalty, or gift card programme for the holidays – and then continue to roll it out in the New Year. A Christmas present for your customers Bridal retail doesn’t create too much repeat business, so this is a great way to reward customers for their loyalty. You may be able to offer special deals on bridesmaids’ dresses and accessories should they buy during this period. Add ons are purchases where outside competition is huge. Why not encourage customers, who have already bought their wedding dresses from you, to come back and order their extras over Christmas time? You could give them an incentive if they recommend friends and family to your business; fantastic for maintaining that all-important rapport. It can take the form of a plastic card with your details on, or a paper card version. We’ve all got them in our purses from various places – so why not yours? 3 Be bold with your Christmas visual display Create special holiday merchandising (to include your shop window, and social media) to promote your products and services. Make it bright, exciting and inviting. An antidote to those dark evenings! w Ensure you move your displays and products around regularly – as you clean is ideal. It changes the energy of the boutique, and you’ll be surprised at how many of your brides will spot ‘new’ dresses! w Look to improve any areas of
communications which fall short. w Review how messages are given and received by all members of staff and the business owner. w Analyse how conversations and connections are managed and recorded with your customers. w Always do what you say you are going to do. w Remember always that broken promises do not make for customer satisfaction. 4 Partner up with other local retailers and have a live social event Make Christmas and the New Year a retail celebration by teaming up with other local businesses, be it a local florist, jewellers, hairdressers, beauty salon, bar, restaurant etc. As the nights draw in, we tend to want to stay at home. When you have events at your boutique, you will encourage people out for awhat promises to be a special occasion. Raising awareness of local retailers and companies in your area, will help improve your exposure, and your customer footfall, something which can drop off at this time of the year. When competing against the huge chains, and we know who they are, strength in numbers pays off! You cannot beat an instore event at a local, independent, retail boutique. 5 Maintaining a presence Don’t feel under pressure to have to keep selling. This time of year is a perfect opportunity for you to send out festive greetings to customers past and present. It will be brilliant for relationship-building communications. It is a no pressure, gentle piece of marketing which will keep you on their radar, and remind them you are thinking of them – and not just trying to sell them something! 6 Organise a competition on social media sites Run a competition on a social network to help interact with your consumer base. It is a fantastic way to ensure
your customers feel valued. It’s important to remember your target market and goals when considering a competition; so tailor accordingly. It could be free accessories, a voucher towards their wedding dress, or bridesmaids’ dresses. Let your imagination run wild. Once the prize has been drawn, invite the winning customer to the boutique and present them with their gift. Do invit any local media along. This in turn can help you with business promotion and raise your status and profile in the Industry. It will reinforce your fabulous reputation as a company who cares, and goes that extra yard. At this time of year, when a lot of people are feeling the pinch financially, the thought of winning a prize to help with wedding costs will be a real pull. 7 Making the most of your customer encounters during the holiday season Did you know? Surveys show that only 6% of customers like shopping at this time of year. w Let you staff participate in the organisation of the event/promotion/ competition. They are at the coal face, so to speak, and are often a mine of amazing ideas. w Once organised, all staff should be given training about what is on offer in terms of pricing and discounts. w Be clear about how long the offer lasts, and which dresses and accessories are part of the promotion. w Ensure you have enough staff to cover promotions. w Staff need to be very enthusiastic and keen when trying to raise that all important customer receptivity. w Lastly, enjoy this time of year. Sales and promotions are a super way of bringing your team together, ending the year on a high. T: +44 (0)1582 451238 / +44 (0)7896 944759 E: helenacotter.co.uk W: info@helenacotter.co.uk
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Money Talks...
important that you feel comfortable with the level of spend and you will need to consider your availability of funds so that you can retain sufficient cash-flow to enable the business to continue trading successfully and meet debts as they fall due for payment. I suggest you speak to a number of different people to get ideas for the refurbishment, and at least three quotes for the work you consider to be necessary. It is important to get a detailed breakdown of the quote as the tax treatment for various items of spend may differ and you will want to ensure that any deduction for tax purposes is maximised. I would also recommend that a contingency is built in to any budget, as costs can be higher than expected or further work that was not budgeted for could be required. The tax relief available on the rental property expenditure may be different to that which can be obtained on the commercial property. It is important again therefore to have a detailed breakdown of the expenditure to so that the appropriate tax treatment can be determined. If the upstairs flat is being let out, the profits from this would be calculated separately to those of your main trading business. You should not automatically assume that if there is a loss in either the rental or trading activity that it can be offset against the profit from the other. Careful planning will be required to optimise your position each year. It sounds like the property is a fantastic opportunity but please do speak to your accountant and get specialist advice in advance of completing the purchase.
GOING LEGAL
This issue, our accountancy expert Michael Cahill answers your questions about investing in property for business use and that all-important one about stock holdings and the possible tax relief that a loss might generate I have been offered an exceptionally good deal, through family connections, to buy premises rather than rent them and apart from the ground floor shop and basement storage area, there is an upstairs flat which I could rent out if I choose. The entire property will cost me £350K which is roughly what I have inherited from my late father after paying Inheritance Tax. What I need to know is what is a sensible budget to spend on refurbishment. I want to do the right thing here and not let my imagination run away with me. Purchasing property can be a good investment for a business but you should seek specialist advice before doing so to ensure that you consider who should buy the property (you personally, a company controlled by you, your personal pension etc) and fully understand the tax and VAT positions so that you don’t miss out on any opportunities in connection with the transaction. For example, the VAT position needs to be understood as the current owner may have “opted to tax” the property which may mean that VAT will be chargeable on the purchase price – this would also result in an increase in the stamp duty liability. There may also be an opportunity to claim capital allowances depending on the property’s history and whether capital allowances have been claimed in the past. It is difficult to give you advice on setting the refurbishment budget as this will very much depend on the condition of the property currently and what changes you feel are required for the business. However, it is 100 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9
I recently had a sale on everything in my shop and was pleased to clear out a huge number of pieces. Most, however, I have now lost money on. Obviously, my suppliers aren’t interested, which infuriates me, but there must be a way I can claim something back. You are correct in that it is highly unlikely that a supplier will offer any refund on the items being unsold. Assuming that you have not written down the stock value of the goods previously, the sale at less than cost will mean that relief is automatically obtained through the accounts of the business. The original cost of the item will have been carried forward in your stock figure and will now be released
Get connected with the UK’s most exciting, passionate, new wedding industry magazine against the income received. As the cost is greater than the income, this will create a loss that will automatically offset against the profit made on other items sold during the year. If you still have goods where the cost or carrying value is greater than the net realisable value – ie sale price less any future costs to be incurred to achieve the sale – you are able to write down the value of those items held to net realisable value, which will reduce your reported profits and achieve tax relief immediately. In addition, if as a result of the above, your trading profit becomes a trading loss, you may be able to offset the loss against other income in the year, or carry it back to offset against the trading profit from the preceding year and obtain a refund of some or all of the tax paid previously. The management of stock is crucial to the success of a business and if you have found yourself left with a large amount of old stock it would be advisable to review your current processes to see what improvements can be made. For example, can you agree shorter lead times with suppliers which would allow you to reduce the number of items held for any one stock line? Or are you offering too wide a product range? The answer for every shop will differ depending on their current product range and customer base but it would be advisable to keep this area under regular review.
Email your business finance questions to susi@meanttobemedia. com for inclusion in the first available issue of Wedding Trader. If you’d like to consult directly with Michael Cahill for professional advice, then email michael.cahill@ albertgoodman.co.uk
Trader Trader Trader Trader WEDDING
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
The High Street debate continues WE CANVAS OPINION ON THE FUTURE OF INDEPENDENT RETAILING
THE NEXT BIG THING
WELL, WHAT’S IT TO BE?
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
Justin & Savannah INTRODUCING THE PERFECT COUPLE
BRANDS THAT MEAN BIG BUSINESS
SAME SEX WEDDINGS SOMETHING TO SERIOUSLY CELEBRATE
SOLE MATES STEPPING OUT IN STYLE WITH THE LOVELY RACHEL SIMPSON
SLEEVES
GOING TO NEW LENGTHS, AND ANYTHING BUT PLAIN
ISSUE TEN • NOVEMBER ’18
Changing the game plan
ADDING EXTRAS TO YOUR OFFERING THAT WILL PULL IN NEW BUSINESS
PROUDL SUPPOR Y TING BRITISH BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS
VIVA ESPAÑA SAY HOLA TO THE
LY PROUDTING SUPPOR BRITISH AR WE BRIDAL ERS RETAIL
WEDDING
WEDDING
ISSUE NINE • OCTOBER ’18
WINNERS! WHAT IT FELT LIKE ON THE BIG NIGHT
GROOM SERVICE
Get togethers
ENTER THE NEW-AGE BOYS’ ZONE
WORKING WITH OTHER SERVICE SUPPLIERS
OH KNICKERS! WHAT GOES UNDER THAT BEAUTIFUL DRESS
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
WEDDING
ISSUE ELEVEN • DECEMBER ’18
Survivial of the fittest
PROUDL SUPPOR Y TING BRITISH BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS
WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE? OPINIONS, ADVICE AND HARD-HITTING FACTS
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
ISSUE 15 • MAY/JUNE ’19
IAN STUART TAKES TO THE ROAD AND COMES BACK WITH A SMILE
Chat and snap THE NEW BREED OF PHONES THAT TAKE THE BEST PICTURES
STATEMENT-MAKERS FOR THE MEN IN THE BRIDAL PARTY
JEWELLED HEELS... SIX OF THE ABSOLUTE SPARKLING BEST
WHAT THE WELLDRESSED WOMAN WILL BE WEARING
FAMOUS FACES THE VALUE OF HAVING BIG NAMES ON BOARD
The talk of the shows
THE TRENDS SET IN THE SEASON’S TOP EVENTS
Mum’s the word
A RETAILER’S GUIDE TO SETTING UP YOUR VERY OWN PHOTO SHOOT
OUR GUIDE TO THE PRETTIEST PROM FROCKS
New York
DISCUSSION: SHOULD YOU SHOW PRICES ON YOUR WEBSITE?
THE STARS AND THE SHOW STOPPERS
Trader Trader Trader Trader
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Assessment
IS IT TIME TO RETHINK YOUR BUSINESS STRATEGY?
DOING IT ABROAD THE DESTNATIONS THAT ARE IN DEMAND
More winners
BEST SELLERS CHOSEN BY THE BEST
HAT TRICKS OUR PICK OF CROWNING GLORIES
09/10/2018 13:40
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WEDDING
WEDDING
ISSUE THIRTEEN • FEBRUARY ’19
VALENTINE’S DAY WILL IT DELIVER A WAVE OF NEW BRIDES?
Show business GET READY TO BUY THE BEST – WE TELL YOU WHERE AND WHEN
PROUDL SUPPOR Y TING BRITISH BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS
BLOG IT LEARN FROM THE ABSOLUTE BEST
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
ISSUE 14 • MARCH/APRIL ’19
Showtime
WHAT THE TRADE ASSOCIATIONS CAN DO FOR THEIR MEMBERS
GO AWAY... HEAD FOR THE BEACH DESTINATION DRESSING – OUR GUIDE TO THE VERY BEST
WHO IS IN THE RUNNING FOR A COVETED TROPHY?
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
Y PROUDL TING SUPPORISH BRIT EAR BRIDALW RS RETAILE CAPES... SOMETHING YOU SIMPLY HAVE TO HAVE IN 2020
07/05/2019 12:21
ISSUE 16 • JULY/AUGUST ’19
What you think...
THE BRICKBATS AND BOUQUETS OF BRIDAL TODAY
Getting ready for Harrogate
Closing the doors
FREDA BENNET PROMISES TO BE EVERYONE’S FAVOURITE
ONE RETAILER ON WHAT MADE HER CHANGE DIRECTION
HOW THE BIG NAMES HELP THEIR STOCKISTS
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WEDDING
HOW US TARIFFS MIGHT AFFECT THE UK MARKET
Designer-owned bridal stores
05/03/2019 15:51
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WHY THE SHOW WITH A PROUD HISTORY REMAINS FIRST CHOICE
OUTSPOKEN OPINIONS BIG NAMES – POWERFUL VIEWS
BREXIT THE POSSIBLE POSITIVES FOR BRIDAL
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EMERGING TALENTS NAMES TO KNOW FROM ACROSS THE POND
The Awards
David’s Bridal WILL ITS REPRIEVE HURT THE INDUSTRY?
AND WORKING WITH DESSY
07/01/2019 21:39
ISSUE SEVEN • AUGUST ’18
ON CHANNEL 4’S MOST-WATCHED LIST
Jenny Packham WT13_Cover 4aa 1SR.indd 1
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
06/11/2018 09:56
Ian Stuart
BIG AND BOLD OR EXCLUSIVE AND INTIMATE... WHICH SHOW IS FOR YOU?
DESIGNER SPEAK THE BRITPACK TALK ABOUT FORTHCOMING TRENDS
WEDDING
03/07/2018 18:09
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TO WORK W ITH US, CO NTACT: Head of Advertising Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122
Sales Executive Laura Lismore laura@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07903 858078
Editor Susi Rogol susi@meanttobemedia.com
Finally, it feels that the gap has been bridged and suppliers and retailers are all on the same page, working and talking together. Susi and the fabulous team have recognised this in abundance and created a monthly handbag explosion of fascinating insight, constructive opinions, hints, tips and captivating reads. Truly inspirational! Jeanette Stevens, Managing Director, Enzoani Europe
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“Okay fellow retailers, I want views on prints please. I loved the ones featured in the last issue of Trader and was sorely tempted to buy into a few. But if you’ve stocked them, have they worked for you? A couple of suppliers I spoke to who really specialise in the occasionwear market sell stock rather than samples, and through the sizes, which means I need to buy, say, four of any one design, and then several designs so that they tell a story. I don’t do much in occasionwear currently and am not sure how to approach this. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.”
“This is a message from
“Your Harrogate preview was really helpful and gave exactly enough information about exhibitors to help me make a short list of labels that I wanted to see that are new to me. And having that sneak preview sort of thing also told me who was not right for my particular shop and my very savvy target audience. Finding new names is exciting but at the same time quite scary because everything looks wonderful at an exhibition and sales people can be very persuasive.”
JENNY PACKHAM
my husband. Stop
“I’ve invested in a number of separates now and am finding them very easy to sell, especially the less formal ones that are well priced. My brides aren’t buying them instead of the dress, but very much as an extra for another and more casual look.”
showing glam decor accessories in Trader because the temptation to buy for oneself is huge! I bought the Love light for a dressing room in my shop – it looks terrific – but I feel I need the Soho Home chandelier for me and my home.” “Re your piece on transparent dresses – great images with show-stopping appeal. It is good to know that most designers will actually cover over the flesh to give a bride confidence, even if it is with barely-there tulle. Isn’t that what this term ‘illusion’ is all about?”
...and finally What’s the word on the street? We’ve rounded up who’s been saying what, whether it’s about Wedding Trader or the industry in general
“It is interesting how many successful retailers are offering mentoring services today. I can’t think of anyone better than a fellow shop owner to recognise what I am doing that could be improved.”
“Hats off to Wendy Adams who puts the Harrogate show in a class of its own. Wherever I go in the halls she is there, talking to exhibitors and us retailers, finding out what we need, and making it happen. At so many shows you feel like you are a casual visitor (not, of course when you are on a stand placing an order!) but at Harrogate you are made to feel a part of it.”
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