Line 56

LINE 56

SUBCULTURES MAY

2018

Vol 001

NATURE’S ART

by Bradley Smith

The definition of art Is a human form of expression To create work that will be appreciated For its beauty and emotional power But the natural allure Was not made by man It is to be appreciated At one with our peace If an artist has a canvas Then nature has this sphere A gallery all around us To escape and dream There is beauty and art Open for admiration Hidden by our cycle But never to be concealed Earth without Art is Eh But the world without It’s wonders Is empty 1

LINE 56

‘To Be Or Not To Be’: Original Words Spoken by Hamlet, Act 3, Scene 1, Line 56

Since the 1950’s, teenagers and young people have been surrounded and immersed in subcultures and trends.

From the emergence of Mods and Rockers in the 50’s, the Flower Power 60’s, 70’s Disco, 80’s Goths & New Romantics transforming and the Grunge kids & Britpop fans of the 1990’s. But today, with social media and the internet becoming a necessary part of everyday life, there are seemingly no authentic subcultures left. It’s no longer about being different; it’s about being the best. Numerous media platforms allow us to consume cultures and subcultures. We live in a world where we can consume culture through digital media due to the wealth of culture available at a person’s finger tips. The internet has allowed us to use a search engine to find anything they want us to consider; music, fashion, languages and religions. The ability to consume media and cultures is far easier in today’s digital era, provoking the question as to whether or not television, magazines and forums are still necessary.

As music has always been so influential on fashion, particularly in the 80’s with punk, goth, new romantics and the like, it is no wonder that today’s fashion has stalled when so has the standard of music in the charts. In a world of fast fashion’s fashionable today and not tomorrow, a music industry where if your first two singles flop, you get dropped, it is clear to see that the creative world is stifling its own reinventions. Therefore, the subcultures that we have birthed have all but disappeared; we are lacking expression. Everyone is looking the same and everything on the radio sounds the same.

Line 56’s first issue is called “eARTh without ART is just EH”. In my opinion, every one of us is “art” and we are all unique. No two same people exist, thus why do people want to be like someone else?

All subcultures have their own beliefs and rights they stand for; but the main focus is the appearance and how they express themselves through clothes as fashion is considered to be an art that is the tool to broaden people’s minds. These photos are designed to interpret these subcultures and to visualise them in my own way. They are inspriational and the idea is to show the world how exciting it is to be true to yourself. Not to be afraid to wear different clothes or unusual makeup. This magazine will analyse the most infamous and popular subcultures; punks, skaters, skinheads and drag queens. And it will also look at the subcultures that were born in Eastern Europe and remain unknown to the rest of the world, “gopnik” and “stilyaga”. For Line 56 a range of subjects have been photographed and interviewed who have strong style and personalities, to discuss how people can be more open to innovations and “difference”.

We need that shock factor back, we need to let alternative bands flourish, we need fashion influence to allow young people to discover and build their own identities. We need to let new subcultures grow, because it’s the things we love passionately in our teenage years that makes us who we are as adults.

2

contributors 1. DO YOU THINK SUBCULTURES ARE IMPORTANT? WHY? 2. WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE SUBCULTURE? 3. DO YOU CONSIDER YOURSELF TO BE IN ONE?

4. NOWADAYS WE CAN SEE THAT THERE ARE BARELY ANY SUBCULTURES LEFT. WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE REASON? 5. WHAT WOULD YOU ADVISE TO PEOPLE WHO WANT TO BE “DIFFERENT” AND TRUE TO THEMSELVES, BUT MAYBE ARE AFRAID?

ADELINA BIDASCA styles the MU for DRAG QUEENS, p6 1. ‘To me and hopefully to everyone, subcultures are really important. A lot of them changed the course of history throughout politics, fashion and art and changed the way we look at these nowadays.’

2. ‘There are too many!! Punk, Hippie, Goth, Rocker, but my favourite will always be the Drag subculture due to its complexity, creativity and freedom that it allows to almost put on a mask and be the person you are maybe scared to be, even just for a night.’

3. ‘I don’t think necessarily, but I do consider myself an outsider of today’s society, which I guess by some definition I could be considered as a part of one. But I am and will always be experimenting within these subcultures, researching and simply adoring what they have done and still doing and what they are leaving behind for the generations to come.’

4. ‘I feel like they are still there, but now they are out there, on social media, in the news and entertainment and its mainly because of how people changed, they are more open, they are courageous enough to explore and understand. These subcultures are now more fashion and art oriented, even though they are and will always be politically driven, so I feel like now they are more approachable to the “normal” eye.’

5. ‘I feel like it’s the same old “just be yourself” but it is in some ways, still accurate. Everyone is different somehow, a lot more than others so the best thing I can say is be brave enough to adventure yourself into the “different”. For me that word tells me I’m not like the rest, I have the guts to explore and experiment whatever I want in whatever art or fashion medium I can and I’m proud I can finally do it, even thought I was afraid at some points.’

PEDRO MENDES styles DRAG QUEENS, p6 1. ‘Yes, subcultures are the mirror of our society, they represent both cultural and social factors through their way of living, however, nowadays with the continuous globalization of our world, everything is becoming more a bit of this and that.’

2. ‘I personally don’t have a favourite, I think every subculture represents something different and for me to be able to have a favourite one, that means I fully know and understand that subcultural group.’

3. ‘To be honest, no!’

4. ‘The reason for the reduce of subcultural groups, is due to the globalization, nowawaydays information travels faster than ever, in ten minutes or less I can learn about a subculture and adapt it to myself. Its not about to which group do you belong anymore, but who you really are.‘ 5. ‘There is nothing to be afraid of, you might as well regret what you did than what you didn’t. In the end all it matters is the moment when you look back and think I have done it.’

LAURA SAMONSKYTE interviews SHALTMIRA, p32 1. ‘They are essential. They allow the creations of something new and unseen. In a modern society they provide us with more colours, new thoughts and ideas.’

2. ‘I don’t really have any.’

3. ‘Couldn’t really distinguish just one. While I couldn’t pare myself to any of the subcultures it doesn’t stop me from appreciating them all, because they prove just how creative the humankind can be.’

4. ‘Personally, I wouldn’t say there’s almost no subcultures left. Yes, a lot of people go for the ‘mainstream’ because it’s convenient. But the world goes forward and so does the new subcultures grow.’

5. ‘Travel. Go around the world, see how people live elsewhere. It will definitely broaden your mind and make you feel more confident to express yourself however you want to.’

3

LEONOR MENESES de CARVALHO styles HIP-HOP, p18

4. ‘I think the main reason is the mass/fast fashion. As

and sexuality, but I feel as long as you’re not showing

we can all notice, the consumerism is growing and the

yourself in everyone’s face that you are somewhat

access of the material items is becoming more reachable

different, people actually don’t care about them and they

to a lot of people. There is still rotten belief that quantity

accept you. Having lived in a place where any divergence

is better than quality and you can be whatever you want

from the “norm” was seen as weird and queer and you

every day. But the saddest thing is that we lose our

could get outcast very easily, UK is actually a lot more

true selves and we are drowning into huge amount of

accepting than my old home in Bulgaria. Though I can’t

information without any meaning which simply do not

say it’s perfect here either. My advice would be to be

stimulate our brains anymore. I mean, that a lot of huge

whoever you want to be. But with a catch: everyone is a

companies do not appropriate any cultures or subcultures

special snowflake, but don’t turn that snowflake into an

anymore and produces items for affordable price just to

avalanche.’

sell, and in that way, we lose the true meaning of being 1. ‘I see subcultures as one of the greatest influences in

in particular culture or subculture. Being in a collective

the evolution of style throughout time, it was a great way

group of people is not only just the appearance (which

to find where you belonged and express your interests

if you will try to create buying from sweat shops, you will

and style. As well as the importance it had in the political

be far away from the true subculture/culture) but it is

matters,as subcultures were linked to rebellion and young

also about your beliefs, values and your understanding

people’s manifestations creating a movement to what

of living.’

they believed.’

5. ‘Turn off your TV and explore the world. Very simple,

2. ‘I am personally the most influenced and interested by

not very inspiring, but I think this is where you need to

the early hip hop subculture from the music to the style,

start.’

even though it is really linked to crime there is a great culture that has come out of it and it’s still very visible.’

3. ‘I don’t consider myself part of a subculture as i don’t think they really exist anymore.’

4. ‘With the growth of internet and the amount of information online people don’t really have the need to form a group that they identify with as everything is really accessible and they can find all their interests spreaded around the internet as well as shown their discontent through it. The styles of subcultures have now merged and influences of each one of them is seen everywhere.’

5. ‘Nowadays it’s really a common thing to have your own blended style and there isn’t any pressure to fit in anywhere. Expressing your own thing it’s what will make you stand out as most people are just adapting to what

QUOTE

“Can you remember who you were, before the world told you who you should be? “ — Charles Bukowski, Post Office PETAR PETROV photographs “InstaB*tch”, p32

they have seen from the past. There is only good in the

GRETA JANKEVICIUTE styles PUNKS, p34

1. ‘I think YES. Various subcultures have very interesting history we all should know. Subcultures also very important in fashion, because it’s the main source of designer’s inspiration.’

2. ‘My favourite subculture is punk. Punks had the bravest forms of expression and it’s very inspiring. I love the way punks were braking all the standards. ‘ 3. ‘No….’

4. ‘I think that subcultures still exists but it less defined, they are just different now.’

5. ‘I would remind them already legendary saying -

fact that you are different!’

YOLO. You only live once, that’s why you must do

BRIGITA SERMUKSNYTE styles “STILYAGA”, p26

anything YOU want, anything what makes YOU happy, because life is really short for not being yourself.’

JAMES PARKES styles SKINHEADS, p40

1. ‘I think they are important because they give people, of similar interests, understanding and behaviour for community to reside in and feel comfortable in the way they are. ‘ 2. ‘I don’t really have any favourite subculture. Although 1. ‘I think it is important that there are different ways to express yourself and find your group where you feel appreciated and it fits your beliefs. I think that especially subcultures lets the teenagers to practice and find a collective group of people where they could grow together as personalities.’

2. ‘My favourite subculture is hippies. I relate myself to their way of thinking, because current global citizens are tending at fast living, fast consuming, spending time and money without thinking about other, whereas the following culture presents an opposite way of living.’

the ones that stand out for me are the Skaters and Fandom subcultures (certain Video games, Movie and book genres etc).’

3. ‘I don’t consider myself to be in one... But I would probably say I belong to a nerdy subculture with an “artistic twist”.’

4. ‘The main reason I think is that people have become more accepting and the boundaries that once were

1. ‘Historically, yes. Subcultures paved the way for self-expression.’

2. ‘The early Skinhead movement. ‘

between subcultures as thick as brick walls, now they are

3. ‘No.’

paper thin. Though there aren’t as many subcultures left,

4. ‘I think subcultures still exist, but just in a different

the ones that are still here are very popular, such as Lads

form. We live in a digital age where the internet has

and Clubbers... At least under my observations.’

3. ‘No, I would not consider myself as a part of any

5. ‘As banal as it sounds everyone should be whoever

subcultures, but I am very interested in them and I aspire

they want to be. Now I know the complexities behind

them.‘

such a statement - social and financial position, age, sex

provided a platform for people with similar interests to connect worldwide.’

5. ‘Love yourself. Fuck anyone else’s opinion.’

DRAG QUEENS styling, model

Pedro Mendes @baena_pedro

mua

Adelina Bidasca @abxmua

5

12

SKATERS @ London, Southbank + White Ground skateparks

SHALTMIRA | Egle Tamulyte interview

Laura Samonskyte @ccrazyland

Shaltmira is an artist of astounding creativity with a gift for blending diverse themes from grotesque macabre to sex to humor. In her creative process Shaltmira constructs picture detail after detail both visually and in narrative, having composition and final piece in mind but in search for unexpected twists due to the experiment. Every artwork shares the artist’s insights, reflects different emotions, subtle feelings inexpressible by words and is seen as conversations with herself or imaginary lover, friend or foe.

- When did you first become involved with art?

Since forever. I didn’t see art as something separate from me. It was as natural to draw as to eat. I think the simplicity of the environment that I was born into pushed me into a quest of creating my own reality, which I would construct, my fantasy world, when drawing. The social pressure almost made me switch into studying medicine, or biochemistry, but then I felt if I won’t do what my guts are telling me to do, then I will feel like having a rope on my neck for the rest of the life. I decided to live a life that I create for myself. Following my own path. Not tested by anyone before, because I build it as I move.

I’m bridging my ideas into the grid of reality, I AM THE BRIDGE. I think what I do is the Art of Living.

I have visual understanding so I like to see my ideas brought to life. This is how I mirror my thoughts. With the age I was and still am testing different mediums searching new ways to manifest the thought into physical shapes. Making imprints.

- You’re deeply concerned with the human mind when it comes to your illustrations. Why not go for something less complicated?

I used to also wanted to be a psychiatrist. Since my young age I would read psychology books, because I grew up surrounded by them, my mom was into it, so I was always interested how mind and human relationships work. Later volunteered to work at children with disabilities kindergarten, and foster home, while I was in gymnasium, to see the spectrum of the psyche. I’m doing lifelong research on human condition.

16

And it is complicated to understand, accept and be aware of self, and it is frightening to face self, but without it, there’s no moving forward in self development. I explore my shadows with the light, spotting what could be improved. I put myself in other’s shoes, I go the far distances, I meet all people and hear their stories, which I treat as metaphors, archetypes of behaviours, from which I construct the image of self, as consisting of all what is contained by the universe. Emotional awareness, pain is identification that some action asks to be made. It takes courage to make an action, to deal and face the pain, face the emotions. I’m curious how other sees and deals with it, that’s why my life is dedicated to research on human mind via art.

- How does your nationality and your background while growing up has influenced your work?

I felt connected with Freddie Mercury since I first saw him on MTV when I was a baby. I would sing ‘Living on my Own’ before I could speak Lithuanian. I think I always felt like I was not, where I belong. I joked, that I was born in the potato field. But I think this is what helped me to develop my visionary skills.

To create, when there’s nothing around. I am also proud of my pagan roots. I feel very much connected to the nature. My name means spruce and I have it growing in my home in Lithuania, which is planted by my grandfather. I feel connected with the legend of Egle, the Queen of Serpents, that Lithuanians have.

- Does Lithuania inspire you in any way?

It’s my roots, my personal history. I’m the last pagan.

- You’re not located in Lithuania anymore. However, it seems like you try to keep your connection to it? Is it something that’s important to you?

I’m located in Berlin now, I came here again after two years, which I spent living in New York, Mexico and then touring Columbia and United States. I do keep in touch with my friends, family fans and art academy, in which I’m studying Masters Degree in Graphics. I also occasionally do collaborations with Lithuanian artists and brands.

I like to be connected with all parts of the world, to know, what is happening in different places, to keep my finger on the pulse of the world of art, fashion and politics (human rights, LGBTIQ+.) I’m proud of my pagan roots and love visiting my homeland. In Lithuania I come to reconnect with my roots, to get grounded. After long journeys I like to enjoy the peace and nature, so Lithuania is a great option. Each time I come home, I have many people wanting tattoos, so it’s also a pleasure to tattoo them. I also like to share what I learnt with lithuanians, I go to schools to talk to kids about life, career and recently also been talking in Creative Mornings event in Contemporary Art Center, in March, about courage.

- After reading your blog it’s clear you’re passionate about women’s representation. As a female artist do you feel overshadowed or underappreciated in Lithuania?

I feel the need to stand up and speak my truth when I see some things are stagnant, ignorant or certain people groups or individuals are being mistreated. Either that would be female, LGBT, kids or elders. Some people are afraid to speak and to defend themselves, to point out the problems of society. They are afraid of ‘what others would think’, the consequences, care too much of their public image etc. Or just are shy, or don’t believe that pointing out the problem will solve it.

I’m choosing different standpoint, the one, that is daring to speak up. I use art to initiate the conversation, to provoke the rational mind.

I identify as a queer person, but like to express myself as a female. For me everyday is like a drag. I am quite androgynous in my nature since I was born, I have two younger brothers, and I felt always like having masculine and feminine sides colliding in me. SO I am a shapeshifter. I do like to see gender equality in all the matters, not depending to which one you identify with.

In the case of Lithuania’s Coat of Arms, which I redrew, replacing a male on the horse with the female, the reaction to this action mirrored the society’s stigmas, which are rooted in dominance of masculinity. People felt uncomfortable seeing a female on the horse, empowered woman, and that was interesting research that I was doing at the time, on human condition. Couple years later the illustration I did became a symbol, representing National Emancipation Day in Lithuania, which was established in 2017. The flag with my ‘Vyte’, female on the horse, was raised in Lukiskiu aikste in Lithuania’s capital, Vilnius, this year, 2018, celebrating National Emancipation Day on February 17th.

The story about Female on the Horse now is a legend. The image itself got normalized and now is interpreted by other artists as well. I was the first to do the feminine version and for doing so, got the strongest reaction, but I’m happy that now it became more casual to the average eye to see the female is the position of action and baring the great power.

- Could you tell us what you believe could be done to fight phobias of the unknown?

By embracing it. Embrace the Void. Fill the void with bananas.

If nothing means nothing - everything is permitted. Universe is mental, so fight is a movement between two poles, between active fight and passive non-fight (peace state), the stick has two ends, between Love and Hate the Life floats. Every step towards Unknown is a step of Courage, because courage is Action. Non knowing what’s waiting in the future rises from not acknowledging self, as the Creator of Your Own Reality. Be responsible for the reality that you created. Be a cause, not the effect.

If you want to read more about SHALTMIRA and her work, visit her website: http://shaltmira.weebly.com/

17

HIP HOP styling

Leonor Meneses de Carvalho @leonorrcarvalho

models ZhanĂŠ Quashie @zhaneee.x Aydn Richards @richthecreator__ Benie-Francisca Waku @beniefrancisca

20

“STILYAGA�

styling

Brigita Sermuksnyte @brigitaser

models Gintare Mikalauskaite @wanillablk Deimante Mikalauskaite @deimante.mik

26

InstaB*tch by

32

Petar Petrov @pepe_pic

This project is a parody of narcissistic behaviour displayed on social media. The photographs themselves consist of self-portraits inspired by the “over the top” style of David LaChapelle as well as the ridiculousness of his “Jesus is my Homeboy”. This combined with direct inspirations from famous social media celebrities created the absurdities caged in a social media we typically associate with photographs online. The aim is to shed light on such behaviour displayed online as well as to humour it.

PUNKS

styling

Greta Jankeviciute @greta.janke

models

Greta Jankeviciute @greta.janke Alanas Plavinas @alan.n_n

34

SKINHEADS styling

James Parkes @jamesparkes_

models

Taylor Young @tyoungy141

40

“GOPNIKS”

model

46

Rutenis Pliuskys @ruteniio

LINE 56 Line 56 is a visual book for teenagers and young adults, both male and female.

It pushes boundaries to be different by documenting underground movements, breaking down the pigeon-holing of identity and fashion, discussing and analysing topics that are taboo as well as showcasing photographs that might be provocative. The magazine reviews topics such as homosexuality, drag queens, body image, sex, drugs, different social movements. The intention is to give the readers something deeper to think about, becoming carried away with the repetitive celebrity obsessed media that is prevalent today.