Institut Dermed Healthy Skin Lifestyle Magazine January 2024 Edition

INSTITUT’ DERMED CLINICAL SKINCARE

Healthy Skin Lifestyle

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JANUARY - APRIL 2024

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INSTITUT’ DERMED PRODUCT K N OW L ED G E and

PROMOTIONS Table of Contents

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INTRODUCTION with Lyn Ross, L.M.E.

JANUARY Celebrating new Skin Resolutions

FEBRUARY “Love Your Skin” Celebrating Ethnic Skin

MARCH Women’s History Month

APRIL SunSmart Awareness Month

MED-TALK Skin care and the Hormonal Balance

WHERE CAN I FIND Institut’ DERMed™

#LEARNWITHLYN Live in 2024

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Institut’ DERMed™ Clinical Skincare

Healthy Skin Lifestyle Healthy skin is slightly moist, smooth, soft, disease and blemish-free.This perfect protective covering for the body is not prepared for a life of too much sun, pollution and poor lifestyle choices. with Lyn Ross, L.M.E.

Most skin problems are seen on the epidermis, the surface layer of the skin, but trouble can begin in the dermis, the layer just below the epidermis.

Epidermis

Dermis

The Institut’ DERMed Healthy Skin Lifestyle philosophy is to offer individuals with problem skin professional education, targeted treatments, and active products that help them resolve their problematic skin issues quickly and affordably.

We dedicate our time and focus to helping our clients have clear, healthy skin at every age.Think of your Skincare Specialist as an expert with a deep understanding of how the skin works and how different product ingredients react at the cellular level.

We consult with you one-on-one to help guide you to the best combination of ingredients for your skin type and condition for accelerated immediate correction and long-term maintenance.

Our goal is to give you the knowledge and tools to help you take control of your skin health.The aging process can cause the skin to go through many different changes.

What our skin needed as a teenager is quite different from what it will need when we’re 30, and different again at 50 and beyond.

We believe that choosing a healthy skin lifestyle is all about empowering yourself to make educated decisions when it comes to how you take care of your skin. Regular sessions with an Institut’ DERMed Skincare Specialist will help to inspire, educate, and motivate you to do the right things for your skin and for your life.

What your skin reflects when you look in the mirror is in your control!

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CELEBRATING NEW SKIN RESOLUTIONS

The first week of the new year is a time of new promises and commitment. And it's the perfect time of the year for New Skin Resolutions. Add a chemical peel to your skin care routine to exfoliate those dry winter skin cells.

Although you can choose to get a chemical peel any time of the year, the best time to have one is now! A chemical peel during cool, winter months means your skin is better protected as it heals because the sun is less intense.

Discover the magic behind each of the Institut' DERMed Chemical peels: TCA+ CREAM PEEL Our number 1 gold standard for skin transformation. Unleash the magical skin-renewing power of this Trichoracetic Acid blended with Mandelic Acid to lift aged skin layers, soften the appearance of deeper wrinkles, and fade dark spots.

Perfect Lifting Acid Peel This 14% Jessner's like Acid Peel is crafted based on Dr. Max Jessner's legacy, and blends Resorcinol, Lactic, Glycolic, and Salicylic Acid for a medium-depth peel targeting skin concerns like dark spots, sun damage, acne, and fine lines.

Classic Lifting Acid Peel This 7% Jessner's-like peel formulated with Salicylic, Lactic, Resorcinol, and Pomegranate Extract is excellent for the accelerated fading of dark spots and discoloration.

Micro Lifting Acid Peel A creative modification, perfect for more sensitive skin types, combining Ascorbic, Salicylic, and Malic Acid, Papain, and Bromelain Enzymes in a liquid peel-blend to improve the skin’s texture, diminish the appearance of uneven skin tone, and encourage collagen production.

Learn more about our Chemical Peels by taking an

Institut' DERMed Peel Certification Class. https://www.idermed.com/shop/Online-Classes Make a difference in your client's skin. Get Certified!

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TCA + CREAM PEEL C E L E B R AT I N G

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LOVE YOUR SKIN CELEBRATING ETHNIC SKIN

Carter G. Woodson was a scholar whose dedication to celebrating the historic contributions of Black people led to the establishment of Black History Month. Woodson fervently believed that Black people should be proud of their heritage.

Source: https://naacp.org/find-resources/history-explained/civil-rights-leaders/carter-g-woodson

At Institut' DERMed™ we are experts at treating Ethnic Skin and educating others on how best to care for it.

Since 1975, skin color response to sun exposure has been classified on a measurement scale that was developed by a dermatologist,Thomas Fitzpatrick. His scale became known as the "Fitzpatrick Scale” and is still employed today as an easy way to make a skin type color assessment.This scale is important because it helps to project how human skin, which derives most of its pigmentation from melanin, will react to treatments.

An overproduction of melanin can lead to hyperpigmentation. Over-irritation of darker skin types can actually make hyperpigmentation worse because it triggers the melanin response mechanism.This does NOT mean that professionals cannot apply these ingredients to darker skin tones; rather, they should know how to condition the skin using a lower percentage active ingredient to begin with and gradually, over time, increase that percentage.

In general, a Jessners or Jessners-like Peel (the Institut' DERMed™ Classic Lifting Peel) is recommended for darker skin types to effectively target pigment imperfections in darker skin. Other indications for a peel treatment include acne, melasma, photodamage, and pseudofolliculitis barbae (often referred to as "razor bumps" or "ingrown hairs").

There are a number of recommended topical homecare solutions for pre-treating skin of color prior to a professional exfoliation, (which significantly helps to avoid a post-inflammatory pigment (PIH) response).

Skincare ingredients such as: Azelaic acid, Kojic acid, Arbutin, Vitamin C and Licorice Extract help to slow down melanocyte cell activity. Applying these ingredients in a home care regimen six weeks before an exfoliating peel treatment is ideal!

Different ethnicities can respond unpredictably to a peel, so it is important to get services only from trained professionals familiar with the properties of each product.

Learn more about our Classic Lifting Peel by taking an

Institut' DERMed Peel Certification Class. https://www.idermed.com/shop/Online-Classes Presented by Master Esthetician Lyn Ross, Founder of the Institut' DERMed™ Clinical College of Advanced Aesthetics. In this class you will learn the key to safe, effective application how to predict the influence of a peel on the skin.

Make a difference in your client's skin. Get Certified!

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MARCH IS WOMEN’S HISTORY MONTH

Celebrating Women is worth more than one monthly mention; there are so many women who have been influential entrepreneurs in the beauty industry, not least of whom is Institut' DERMed™ founder and AIA Academy legend, Lyn Ross, L.M.E.

Lyn was one of the first licensed estheticians in the United States, and opened her Institut’ DERMed Spa in Atlanta in1989 – The very first MedSpa in the Southeastern United States.

Lyn wanted to give other women the ability to feel great about themselves by providing the best skincare ingredients available and providing effective facial treatments that would boost their self-esteem.

"My work in the treatment room took me into the daily lives of women as they navigate through different stages of their lives. What I found was a direct correlation between skin conditions and self-esteem, and my life's work has been to address that."

Since then, Lyn has helped women, men, and teens overcome skin conditions like acne, rosacea, and sun damage using her non-prescription medical-grade skincare brand.

Lyn's vision also included providing training on her advanced treatments and products to support other spa owners and estheticians. She founded the Institut’ DERMed College of Advanced Aesthetics, an Esthetician Training Center for licensed skin care professionals, in 1995, where she continues to offer professional certifications for licensed skin care specialists in advanced clinical and medical skin health care modalities.

While we celebrate the achievements of women all month, one day in particular, International Women's Day on March 8th, is a great time to share information about the females in your life who have inspired you and to gift a woman in your life with a Spa treatment or a skincare product regimen to say, "Thank you for Being You!"

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* https://www.internationalwomensday.com/Resources

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Excerpt from President Jimmy Carter’s message to the nation designating March 2-8, 1980 as National Women’s History Week.

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"From the first settlers who came to our shores to the first American Indian families who befriended them, men and women have worked together to build this nation.Too often, the women were unsung, and sometimes their contributions went unnoticed. But the achievements, leadership, courage, strength, and love of the women who built America were as vital as that of the men whose names we know so well."

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The greatest power of a woman, is to be a woman!

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INTERNATIONAL MARCH 8 TH

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APRIL IS SUNSMART AWARENESS MONTH

Spring has sprung, and for most of us, it's time to head outside to work in the garden or take off for the beach, or the lake.That's why April is a good time for sun smart awareness, there's a long summer ahead, and reviewing your Ultraviolet (UV) radiation protection starts now.

UV is the main cause of skin cancer. The World Health Organization's Global Solar UV Index measures UV levels on a scale from 0 (Low) to 11+ (Extreme).

The effects of too much UV radiation on your skin are premature aging and photosensitivity. 80% of fine lines and wrinkles are the result of UV damage, and it causes skin sagging, blotchiness, and roughness.

The first step is prevention and the daily applications of a broad spectrum SPF is a must, but over the years, dark spots, uneven skin color, and broken capillaries are likely to still appear on your skin from environmental stressors.

Sun protection is recommended when UV levels are 3 (Moderate) or higher.

• UV can't be felt and isn't connected to the temperature.

• UV levels can be damaging even on cool, cloudy days.

A professional Vital A Peel (the Institut' DERMed Retinol Peel) combined with a topical Vital A Serum and Vital C Serum for homecare helps to fade existing hyperpigmentation and uneven skin color.

• Fortunately, most skin cancer can be prevented by using good sun protection when the UV is 3 and above.

Learn more about our Retinol+ Peel by taking an Institut' DERMed Peel Certification CLASS!

• Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least 15 SPF and reapply every 2 hours.

https://www.idermed.com/shop/Online-Classes Presented by Master Esthetician Lyn Ross, Founder of the Institut' DERMed™ Clinical College of Advanced Aesthetics.

In this class, you will learn the benefits of a retinol peel and how to apply it safely, along with best practices for stimulating natural collagen production as well as diminishing the appearance of photo-aging, fine lines, and wrinkles.

Make a difference in your client's skin! Get Certified!!

Sources: https://www.who.int/health-topics/ultraviolet-radiation The Science and Theory behind Facial Aging http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4174174

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Skin Care and the Hormonal Balance nderstanding hormones and their effect on the skin, from the teenage years to perimenopause and meno pause, is challenging for many skin care specialists. Journeying through the roller coaster with many clients can be rough sailing. Understanding the prominent hormones in the body is essential in order to correctly diagnose, treat, and prevent hormone-related skin conditions. Estrogen and progesterone are the main partners in this delicate balancing act. Designed to work together as a team, when that balance leans more to one direction than the other, a whole host of problems occur.

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Estrogen - is one of the most important hormones for women. Not only does it regulate a woman’s reproductive cycle, but is can also have very positive effects on the skin, but only if the levels are in balance. Estrogen can reduce the size and activity of the oil glands inside the pore, help tighten pores, influence how quickly, cells divide in order to create strong collagen and elastin, help increase the hydration levels within the skin, and slow hair growth.Without estrogen, the skin ages quickly, this is why women see rapid changes in their skin as they enter menopause.

Hormone levels in the blood stream play a significant role in the skin rejuvenation practice as they affect the shedding of cells in the epidermis and the building of cells in the dermis.

Understanding hormones and their effect on the skin.

Progesterone – named because it is involved in the gestation or maturing of a fetus in the womb, stimulates a woman’s uterus, and prepares the lining for a fertilized ovum. Progesterone also stops ovulation from occurring when pregnancy occurs.

Testosterone – usually thought of as only a male hormone but is produced in women as well, at a much lower level.

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Skin Care and the Hormonal Balance DHEA – or dehydroepiandrosterone, is a sterone naturally produced by the body’s adrenal glands and is responsible for the production of every sex hormone, such as progesterone or testosterone, in the body. DHEA levels begin to rise during puberty and are at their highest at the end of the teenage years and early twenties, but the levels start to decrease quickly as the aging process continues, and by postmenopause DHEA production is merely a fraction of what it was in a person’s late teens and early twenties.

Human Growth Hormone – is an endocrine hormone like estrogen or testosterone, produced in the pituitary gland and secreted throughout a person’s lifetime but rapidly decreasing as a person ages.

The teenage years, when puberty occurs, is when the body begins producing sex hormones, which can radically affect the skin throughout life as the levels continue to fluctuate. Early to mid-adult life is characterized by outside hormonal influences, pregnancy, and lifestyle factors that affect hormones.Then comes menopause, the time when hormones can wreck havoc on the skin during fluctuations.These hormonal changes that come about during aging are undeniable and inescapable, but they can be eased by a healthy lifestyle and newly emerging anti-aging treatments.

Where it all begins: The Teenage Years Hormones are responsible for the maturation of the oil glands in our skin.This is why children do not experience acne.There are several times in our lives when hormones can become unbalanced and wreak havoc, including puberty, pregnancy, and menopause. Hormones fluctuate, and the skin is influenced tremendously by these shifts.The menstrual cycle, which begins at puberty, plays a role in shifting hormone levels. An increase in progesterone prior to a woman’s period can easily cause breakouts as male androgen hormones increase sebum activity in the sebaceous gland.The acne flare subsides after the onset of menstruation, and the woman’s body moves into the beginning of another menstrual cycle.

Estrogen-dominant women have few acne breakouts during puberty.They continue, throughout most of their child-rearing years, with relatively clear skin, unless something occurs that alters the hormonal balance. However, androgen (a male sex hormone) dominant women can suffer from full-blown acne during puberty, may suffer with excess facial and body hair, and be more prone to oily skin, which may be the cause of breakouts and skin issues.

Many teenagers struggle with acne due to their changing hormones.

To achieve the best possible results for young skin, the face needs to be kept clean, hands need to be washed frequently, and kept away from the face. Oil-free cosmetics like foundation, blush, and moisturizing products that do not cause blocked pores should be used.Teenagers have a tendency to pick at their face or pick, squeeze, or pinch blemishes, which should be avoided to inhibit the development of acne scars.

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Skin Care and the Hormonal Balance Mild glycolic (alpha-hydroxy acid derived from sugarcane increases desquamation to refine, lighten, and brighten the skin’s surface) and salicylic acid (a natural anti-bacterial derived from wintergreen, exfoliates superficial skin cell layers to accelerate the removal of hyperpigmented brown and red skin discoloration) products should be used. Clarifying cleansers and toners containing these acids should be used in the morning, at bedtime, and after heavy exercise. Most sun damage that presents itself during the later stages in life is actually due to sun exposure during the teenage years, so an SPF 15 or higher sunscreen should be applied daily to help avoid acne breakouts and hyperpigmentation. Even oily-skin types need to use a moisturizer with SPF in the morning and a light anti-bacterial moisturizer in the evening after cleansing to protect from surface dehydration.

The best approximate age to start a professional skin health regime is 13 or 14 years old.

By this age, young adults know the importance of hygiene. By devoting a few extra minutes each day to a complete skin care routine, teens can gently ease through these erratic hormonal years with confidence.

Stuck in the Middle: The Mid-Life Skin Care During early to mid-adulthood, a woman’s body is producing skin-enhancing estrogen. If a woman’s estrogen levels are balanced, her oil production will be less, and her skin elasticity will be enhanced. But around the age of 40, a woman’s estrogen levels begin to decline.

Like estrogen, anti–aging hormones, such as DHEA or human growth hormone (HGH), are at a peak during your early adulthood but begin to fall as aging progresses.

The natural aging process can cause a woman’s hormone levels to decrease, but a woman’s lifestyle can also play a big role in hormonal imbalance. In this middle portion of a woman’s life, she may be stressed, be receiving external forms of estrogen, be taking birth control, or even be struggling with the middle age bulge, which can all affect your hormonal levels, and in turn affect the skin.

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Skin Care and the Hormonal Balance The androgen hormone testosterone is produced in a woman’s adrenal gland, and androgen-dominant females may have enlarged oil glands that produce excessive sebum, or oil. While androgen-dominant females may suffer from acne due to excessive oil during puberty or the teen years, factors during this stage of a woman’s life, such as birth control pills and stress, can stimulate the androgens and can even cause hair growth on the face. However, these women can begin to notice a reduction in oil production as they progress in age.

As we age, there is a deceleration of cell renewal in the dermis, contributed to by hormone levels in the blood stream.

The Last Stage: Menopause Menopause brings on many symptoms in a woman’s body internally, but the main place we visibly see the results of the changes is the skin.The body’s essential hormones are lacking, or missing altogether, during this stage in life, and it is important to take extra care of the skin, the body’s largest organ, at this time.

During menopause, a stage in a woman’s life when the ovaries begin to produce less estrogen, the skin may begin to suffer from dryness, loss of elasticity, and previous abuses of the skin (smoking, lifestyle, sun damage) begin to expose themselves.

Not only will the body start producing less estrogen, but it will slow down on the production of collagen and elastin as well.The women, who were estrogen-dominant in their teenage and early adulthood years, usually become more androgen-influenced.These women who escaped their early years without acne breakouts may start breaking out during this phase in life. Rosacea can also come about for these women at this stage.Without estrogen, the skin ages quickly; this is why women see rapid changes in their skin as they enter menopause.

Estrogen Replacement Therapy (ERT) is sometimes prescribed by a doctor to battle some symptoms of menopause, such as hot flashes; however, there are side effects that present themselves in the skin, including rosacea, cherry angiomas, or appearance of blood vessels.

But ERT can also help by adding moisture to the skin, reducing skin wrinkling, and protecting against skin conditions characterized by this age group and menopause. Women who receive hormonal therapy could see greater skin thickness than women who go untreated, and atrophy of the skin cells may be prevented by using an ERT. Estrogen Replacement Therapy is not recommended to everyone and does have some negative side effects,so it is important to consult your doctor before using this Hormone Replacement Therapy (HRT).

Post-menopausal skin care can guard against the typical skin symptoms of this stage.

A woman’s daily regime should include the use of a non-oily, low-foaming cleanser to protect the skin from drying.After cleansing,a non-alcoholic toner should be applied to balance the pH level of the skin, followed by sun protection, retinol, and or peptide serum, and moisturizer.

An exfoliator and mask for weekly skin conditioning maintenance is also recommended.

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Skin Care and the Hormonal Balance Cosmeceutical Ingredients Effective in the Treatment of Aging Skin GLYCOLIC ACID Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane, that increases desquamation to refine the skin’s surface.

L-ASCORBIC ACID

The most effective aqueous topical vitamin C to prevent premature aging.

LACTIC ACID An alternative to glycolic acid derived from sour milk increases cellular desquamation for sensitive and aging skin.

L-RETINOL A pro-drug that can be converted to retinoic acid by the skin to promote the normalization of epithelial desquamation, reducing cellular cohesion.

MATRIXYL 3000 ™ PALMITOYL OLIGOPEPTIDE, PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7 Derived from fatty acids synthesis, collagen and fibronectan reducing wrinkle density and volume.

BLACK CURRANT SEED OIL

Essential fatty acid anti-oxidants with skin-hydrating benefits.

APRICOT KERNEL OIL Increases cellular hydration and moisture retention for prematurely aged skin and skin that is dry and irritated. High in vitamin A and minerals, apricot kernel oil has an excellent texture that is great for all skin types to soften rough, dry skin.

RICE BRAN OIL Contains high levels of tocotrienol antioxidants to defend against free radicals generated in the skin by UV rays. It prevents skin aging and damage by oxidative UV rays.

CORN SILK A rich source of vitamin K to diminish dark circles under the eyes and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

ENZYMES Categorized as proteases; proteolytic enzymes break down keratinized protein molecules. As bio-catalysts, which literally mean either beginning a cellular action or causing a reaction, enzymes are capable of effecting changes in the appearance of the skin, such as releasing dead skin cells to decongest clogged pores and soften wrinkles.They also act as protectants, capturing free radicals preventing damage to the skin caused by environmental pollution, smoking, bacteria, sunlight, and other harmful factors.

EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTOR (EGF) Fifty-three amino acids that accelerate epidermal cell proliferation and facilitate the resolution of inflammation following wounding.

SQUALENE Derived from olive oil and used as an antioxidant to prevent dehydration, softening the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

TRICHLOROACETIC ACID (TCA) Found in fermented apple cider, wine, grain, malt, rice, or potato mashes, is known as an ethanoic acid, an organic chemical compound. Considered to be the “Gold Standard” of peeling agents,TCA coagulates stratum corneum proteins, causing a mild sloughing of photo-damaged epidermal cell layers to improve fine surface wrinkles, superficial blemishes, and pigment problems.

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Skin Care and the Hormonal Balance Conclusion While hormones and hormonal fluctuations can have a great impact on a woman’s skin throughout her lifetime, that does not mean she is destined to be helpless against skin concerns. Women should take proper long-term care of their skin with a skin care regime beginning around 13 or 14 years old and continue these preventative techniques throughout their early adulthood and menopausal years. Women (and men) should use proper sun protection, refrain from smoking; hydrate by drinking eight or more glasses of water a day and using a topical moisturizer, exercise to help circulation and blood pressure, eat a nutritious diet, and get adequate amounts of sleep to contribute to healthy skin.

Many skin conditions, including acne, rosacea, thinning of the skin, dryness, hyperpigmentation, and even contact dermatitis, can be related to hormonal deficiencies or changes, and an aesthetician should be knowledgeable of the signs of hormonal skin changes in order to properly treat them and perhaps even refer them to a medical professional for certain effects.

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WHERE CAN I FIND

Institut’ DERMed

®

PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS You will find Institut’ DERMed® Clinical Skincare professional products in a qualified physician’s office, medical spa, or skin clinic. Our homecare retail regimens are available through our Professional network and authorized retailers only. We have Institut’ DERMed® College of Advanced Aesthetics certified professional partners trained to administer our treatment program and dispense our products for in-home use Internationally.

WHOLESALE & DISTRIBUTION If you are a licensed professional and interested in wholesaling or distributing our products, you are welcome to call or register with us online for approval. Institut’ DERMed® is a professional corporation committed to providing our clients with the highest integrity of service, professional-only products, and continuing education in advanced clinical skin care procedures to help every individual you treat achieve optimal skin health and beauty.

https://www.idermed.com

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Join Lyn Ross L.M.E. for FREE LIVE Facebook Training every Wednesday at .

1 p.m. EST in the Instituf DERMed® Healthy Skin Lifestyle Facebook Group.

Every week Lyn helps Skin Care Specialists Estheticians, Cosmetologists, Nurse Skin Care Practitioners and Students of Aesthetics learn more about clinical skincare and practical business tips for optimal client results and business success.

Topics focus on confidence with Enzyme, Acid and Chemical Peels and include knowledge on product ingredients, protocols and how to create a highly profitable skin care practice.

The Instituf DERMed® Healthy Skin Lifestyle Professionals Group is known for helping each other trouble shoot client case studies. As a member of our group you are invited to post questions about active product ingredients, peel layering, and how to manage complications.

See you there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/healthyskinprofessionals

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