jela starih barda
Buko ka Mar na Gazarov ća M
Forty years after the death in Venice of our greatest Renaissance playwright and comic writer, Marin Držić from Dubrovnik, an exile from his own city, in 1607, in an afflicting
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dissident environment his Hvar literary successor from Hvar, Martin Benetović, commoner of a restless spirit, was also to meet his end.
Pustolovine
Martina Benetovića
The adventures of Martin Benetović veljko barbieri fotografija: damir fabijanić
Četrdeset godina nakon što je 1567. u Veneciji završio život našega najvećeg renesansnog dramatičara i komediografa Dubrovčanina Marina Držića, izgnanika iz Grada, u mučnom disidentskom okružju, završit će 1607. i život njegova hvarskoga književnog sljednika,
jela starih barda
pučanina nemirna duha, Hvaranina Divljač na malogrobljanski
Game a la Malogroblje
Viške srdele na ražnju
očišćene prepelice očišćen fazan očišćen zec kapula ili crveni luk bijeli luk ili češnjak dimljena slanina maslinovo ulje prošek kvasina ili vinski ocat crno vino kaduljin med brašno grančica ružmarina list lovora klinčić sol i papar
4 oko 1 kg oko 1 kg 3 1 glavica 100 g 2 dl 1 dl 1 dl 2 dl 2 žlice 1 žlica 1 1 6
plucked and cleaned quails 4 cleaned pheasant 1 kg cleaned hare 1 kg onion 3 garlic a head smoked bacon 100 g olive oil 200 cc prošek 100 cc wine vinegar 100 cc red wine 200 cc sage honey 2 spoons flour 1 spoon twig of rosemary 1 bay leaf 1 cloves 6 salt and pepper
srdele sol i papar
1 Prepelice, fazana i zeca razrezane u polovice i komade properite u razblaženoj kvasini pa pirjajte na maslinovu ulju i sjeckanoj kapuli, češnjaku, slanini u trakama, dok se sve ne zazlati. 2 Zalijte prošekom, kvasinom i crnim vinom tako da prekriju meso. Dodajte med, ružmarin, lovor, klinčiće, sol i papar. 3 Pirjajte dugo dok sve ne ugusti pa pojačajte šug žlicom brašna razmućena u čaši vode. (Recept tete Marije Toničine, 19. stoljeće).
1 Rinse the jointed quails, pheasant and hare in diluted vinegar and sauté in olive oil and in chopped onion, garlic, bacon in strips, until golden brown. 2 Pour it with prošek, vinegar and red wine, to cover the meat. Add honey, rosemary, bay, cloves, salt and pepper. 3 Braise it for a long time over a low heat until it becomes thick, and thicken the sauce with a spoonful of flour first dissolved in water. (Recipe of Aunt Marija Toničina, 19th century)
Martina Benetovića.
Vis sardines on the spit 1 kg
1 Na ražanj od šiblja veprine, može i od česmine, nanižite srdele poprečno po sredini, tako da im kralješnica ostane na donjoj strani. 2 Stavite ražanj na žar, tako da mu krajeve pridržavaju dva kamena ili cigle, pa kad je ta strana pečena, okrenite srdele kralješnicom prema gore i blago ih izravnajte rukom. 3 Kad su nakon nekoliko minuta potpuno pečene, skinite ih s ražnja, posolite krupnom soli, popaprite i poslužite vrele.
sardines salt and paper
1 kg
Iako nisu bili suvremenici, dijelili su slična sudjelovati u razdiobi vlasti kakvu je Držić stvaralačka nagnuća, i jedan i drugi neko mogao tek snivati i sanjati. Daleko od vosu vrijeme bili orguljaši u kaptolskim cr- ljenog ali izrazito vlastelinskog Dubrovnikvama – Držić u Dubrovniku, Benetović ka i njegova elitističkog zakonika, statuta u Hvaru – putovali su često i izbivali dulje i Senata. Jasno Benetovićev se život i djelo ne vremena iz zavičajnih sredina, istina iz oprečnih razloga, premda se Benetović može i ne treba uspoređivati s Držićevim, kao izaslanik hvarske pučke kongrege ali neke ih analogije vežu i snažnije nego u Mlecima, gdje ga je i dočekala smrt, što se čini nakon strogo prosuđenih mogao slobodnije odnositi prema svojoj usporednih životopisa i njihove osobne također oligarhijskoj otočkoj komuni jer bibliografije. Pučanin i jedan i drugi, istina je bila čvrstim sponama i zakonima ve- Benetović iz imućne liječničke obitelji, a jela starih barda zana uz liberalnu Serenissimu i, zajedno Držić skromnijega podrijetla, osjetili su na sličan način vrijeme i o njemu s građanskim slojem je pripadao fun of kojem the everyday and icertainly rural proključalo conditions, at least insofar as the ability svojim djelima oštre procjene,ingredients was po statutu hvarske komune, lookout of the tako Hvarizravno communeuand at the toizražavali obtain more expensive
very beginning conveys Raško’s desire for Cvita in terms of food: The devil take him, how shall I kill myself, without doing myself a harm. When you are dead, you’ ll never chew bread... you are dearer to me than cows and sheep, lambs and kids, of all my horned livestock, and the potions and lotions of Mikleta di Zorzi Jurosavić wind through the comedy, with the miraculous aphrodisiac characteristics of aromatic herbs and plants as if come from the lips of the Gipsy Woman of Mikša Pelegrinović, one more Hvar Renaissance bard, and at the end a great feast is prepared at which for a surety there was no want of meat, cheese and all kinds of commoners’ delicacies. But all this, with the best of intentions, is not enough for any full gastronomic or nutritional analysis. So it is more important to point out that all the important writers of the first phase of the Hvar Renaissance were of noble origin. The last winner of renown for them was a citizen, a commoner Martin Benetović, which tells directly of the social changes in the Hvar commune and the more democratic gastronomic
116
1 On a spit of butcher’s broom, perhaps from holly, arrange the sardines horizontally across the middle, so that their backbones are facing down 2 Lay the spit across the coals with the two ends being supported by two bricks or stones, and when this side is grilled, turn the sardines backbones-up, and gently straighten them by hand. 3 When after a few minutes they are thoroughly grilled, take them off the spit, salt with coarse sea salt, pepper, and serve very hot.
concerned. As we have seen with the other parts, meat was not abundant, but was still considered a privilege of the palace of rich trenchermen, and was in Benetović’s time prepared in various ways, if one is to judge from the fragment from Hvarkinja. The never-held feast of Master Mikleta and his unrequiting love Mrs Polonia hence could have begun with roast pork garnished with sausages and aromatic herbs, in exceptional circumstances with prosciutto as well. Then came a soft paprikash of blackbirds with cornmeal, pigeons roasted in bacon, from the dovecot of Petar Hektorović, which Benetović, the son of his friend, must have visited, like his Tvrdalj in Stari Grad, particularly after his death, when he painted the altarpiece of St Michael in the cathedral in not-verydistant Dol. With them would be roast poultry, ducks, geese, hens, and the firm and pungent if young goat, sheep and cows’ cheese from Plame and from the Comedy of Raško and at the end torte, and separately cviti [flowers], that uncommon and ancient dessert in the form of petals, memory of the beauty Cvita, Raško’s not-to-be love. And then, at the end, a good glass or goblet of old wine
Although they were not contemporaries, they did share similar creative propensities, and both of them were at one time organists in cathedrals – Držić in Dubrovnik, Benetović in Hvar – they often travelled and were long away from their home settings, although, it is true, for different reasons, although Benetović, as envoy of the Hvar commoners’ assembly to Venice, where death lay in wait for him, was able to relate more freely to his oligarchic island commune, since it had tight connections with and laws in common with the more liberal Serenissima, and together with the popular class he belonged to according to the statutes of the Hvar commune, he was able to take part in the division of power in a way of which Držić could only have dreamed. This was far indeed from the Dubrovnik he loved that, with its elitist code, statutes and Senate, was firmly in the grip of the gentry. Naturally, Benetović’s life and work cannot be and should not be compared with Držić’s but certain analogies link them more strongly than would seem to be the case after a quick view of their comparative biographies and personal bibliographies. For, commoners one and the other, although, it is true Benetović was from a wealthy family of physicians and Držić of more modest origins, they felt in a similar way about all their turbulent times and made sharp comments on them in their works; in the case of Držić at a high social and literary level, and in that of Benetović in sallies of a sometimes vulgar humour with which he limned the social classes of Hvar, on the lines of the Italian learned comedies, from Benetović’s table, which is being and the still commedia arte, in but, completely poured fromliving the flasks in thedel fresco
u Držića na visokoj socijalnoj i književnoj razini, u Benetovića u salvama ponekad vulgarna humora kojim ocrtava društvene slojeve Hvara, na tragu talijanskih učenih komedija, i još žive commedije dell arte, ali sasvim sigurno i na izravnu Vidrinu tragu, koji Benetović bez skrivanja slijedi. Nisu dakako mogli biti prijatelji, Benetović je podosta mlađi od Držića, ali onako kako učeni Bartolomeo Platina usvaja neke odrednice utemeljitelja humanističke gastronomije, toliko puta spominjana maestra Martina di Rossija, tako i vrli Hvaranin, perom i kuhačom, slijedi buntovnoga Vidru. Jer Držićev Pomet sredinom 16. stoljeća opisuje slavnoga pečenog kopuna kojeg su on i njegov Ugo Tudešak pojeli zajedno s pečenim jarebicama, kosovićima i zečićima, pa pečenom teletinom i kobasicama, a Benetović mu epigonski reciklira gotovo istu hranu kroz usta dubrovačkoga vlastelina Miklete di Zorzija, koji je stigao u Hvar i zaljubio se u mladu udovicu Poloniju, pa zbog nje šalje svoga slugu seljaka Bogdana iz Plama po namirnice za gozbu koju bi želio pripremiti u čast nesuđene izabranice. Evo što kaže Mikleta di Zorzi, neka vrsta Dunda Maroja, na čistom dubrovačkom, svome sluzi, u ovom slučaju nekoj vrsti otočkog Pometa, koji govori dijalektom istočnoga dijela otoka, dok mu daje novac za gastronomsku svečanost koja bi trebala pomoći da se slomi srce neumoljive žene u snazi te od njega mnogo mlađe gospođe Polonije: Nu ti brače ovu mošnjicu (kesa za novac, op.a.). Tu je munite (sitnih novčića, op.a.) pet škuda. Pođi, spenđaj na svoj način da se banketa. Čini da je svega gospodski, kupi kokoša, pulastara, gusaka, pataka, golubica, kosovića, jarebica. Čini da je vedeletta (obilje, op.a.), lonzu praščevu, kobasica. Čini da su torte dopo pasto. Veće nađi načina ko se dilata lijepo spremnijevati i hodi, veće se ne obziraj i donesi što ti ostane. S druge strane lukavi sluga, nasuprot pomalo senilnu, ali ipak promućurnu, premda od ljubavi zaslijepljenu gospodaru, uspjeh u osobnoj ljubavnoj misiji koju je preokrenuo u vlastitu korist također izražava napadno držićevski, ali vlastitim književnim jezikom u kojem jezik trbuha doslovce oslobađa jezik sretna duha i, što je ne manje važno, jezik i običaje njegova malog malograđanskog Hvara: U dobar, u dobar, veseli se Bogdan: Ovako se čini. Ko ne umi, njegova škoda. Ova ni gora od današnje. Neka nam se i trbuhe vesele, a jur mi criva roroću (krulje,
op.a.) ur, ur, ur, ter govore - blaguj, blaguj i javit ću se toverni (krčmi, op.a.). Dakle Benetović govori i jezikom hvarske ulice i hvarskoga trga, gdje se i odigrava njegova Komedija od Bogdana, poznatija kao Hvarkinja, tamo među krčmama u kojima se gasi žeđ i glad i nadasve troši novac, kao što će ga na kocki u jednoj takvoj toverni izgubiti i sluga Bogdan, i to upravo onu količinu koju mu je stari zaljubljenik dao za namirnice za svoju ljubavnu gozbu. Benetovićeva Hvarkinja prepuna je takvih lascivno gastronomskih asocijacija kojih se ponekad ne libe ni likovi iz viših društvenih slojeva. Jer cijeli taj njegov mali opus, taj književnim sredstvima izražen užitak u životu shvaćenu kao stvarnost, čini da izravno ljubav bude osnovna vodilja, a neizravno trpeza koja joj daje snagu. Tom sklopu ne mogu pobjeći ni starac Mikleta ni njegova čestita i nedostižna udovica Polonija, ni njegov sin Fabricio, također nesretno zaljubljen u još nesretniju ljepoticu Izabelu, koja je na silu bila udana za starog odvjetnika Nikolu, na koncu ni Bogdan, koji je nakon svih peripetija i zapleta uspio oženiti upravo Izabelinu sluškinju Goju, ali ni stara svodilja Barbara, koja ih sve podučava ljubavnim vradžbinama i umijeću svođenja te od koje svi ti ispremiješani likovi stalno traže pomoć. Tako i sluškinja Goja, koja ljubavnim pripravcima od sastojaka od kojih su bili složeni onodobni pučki obroci mami svoga Bogdana uz pomoć receptura stare svodilje: Draže mi je da sam se saznala s ovom staricom... Naučila me je da ako ću da se mami za mnom, da vazmu iz ognja jednu pinjatu (posudu, op.a.) ka ni kuhala, i da vazmu livom rukom iz priko sebe sedam zrn boba, da zagrizu i stavim u tu pinjatu na on oganj, pak da ju sedamkrat kroz noge pronesu, a osmon popišam i da to stavim kad priko praga projde, da neće moći hipa brez mene biti. Dakle sasvim lascivno i nimalo gastronomski, a opet na svoj način kulinarski, kada malo dalje nastavlja. I naučila me... da vazmu puži golac i da jih svarim u svojoj vodi dočim se razvare, pak procidit kroz peču (krpu, op.a.). Kad ostinu (ohlade se, op.a.) stavit četire bilanjka (bjelanjka od jaja, op.a.).... Dakako i ta receptura za ljubavni napitak završava podjednako kao i prva, ali ipak u svom zametku govori i o receptu za pripremu boba i puževa s jajima, te sirotinjske hrane puka, sluga i siromaha, nasuprot onim gospodskim
the Franciscan monastery, experienced adventurous past in the uncertain and challenging present.
Hvar cviti (flowers) 117
eggs sugar flour lard salmiac vanilla sugar milk mištro*
Torta od rogača mljeveni rogač šećer jaja prosijane krušne mrvice prošek rastopljena čokolada
250 g 250 g 4 50 g 1 ½ dl 2 dl
8 100 g 1 kg 300 g 60 g 50 g 25 cc 200 cc
1 Separate the whites and yolks, beat the egg whites till stiff, and mix with the yolks, lard and sugar, and go on mixing until you obtain a smooth mixture. 2 In a 1-litre pan mixed 250 cc of milk, add the ammoniac, add in the mištro, vanilla sugar and flour, and at the end the egg and lard mixture, and mix them all until you have a smooth paste. Roll it out thinly, shape the cviti with moulds, and fry them in oil until they are crisp and have a crust on the outside. 3 Serve the cviti sprinkled with icing sugar. *Mištro is a drink similar to anise or arak.
1 Oko pola sata miješajte šećer i žumanjke pa dodajte mljevene rogače i krušne mrvice koje ste ostavili nekoliko minuta u prošeku i na kraju snijeg od 4 bjelanjaka. 2 Sve lagano izmiješajte i uspite u premazani okrugli kalup za tortu i pecite oko ¾ sata na umjerenoj vatri. 3 Izvadite i ukrasite rastopljenom čokoladom. (U Benetovićevo vrijeme torte se ukrašavali snijegom od bjelanjaka.)
Hvarski cviti Carob torte
jela starih barda
vićevoj, pokušavala odagnati mora vlastite svakodnevice, ali i komune u zaostajanju za svijetom oko sebe, i već posrnulom Republikom Lava Sv. Marka. Preostaje u ovoj bukolici samo ono najvažnije, vino, nezamjenjiv, uzvišen i opojan eliksir svih sredozemnih pa tako i hvarskih i viških povijesnih postaja. A svi su naši stari bardi bili skloni proizvodnji i uživanju u dobru vinu. Hektorović bi nam ponudio, ako je vjerovati njegovu ribaru Paskoju, pehar muškatila, izvornoga hvarskog muškata, po svojoj prilici darnekuše, strogi Hanibal Lucić iznio bi tada vrlo cijenjeno vino tibidrago, vjerojatno vjerojatno staru sortu crljenak prethodnika plavca, koje je po jednom spisu iz 1529. sam proizvodio. Zanimljivo je da je i Marko Marulić izvozio isto vino u Mletke, a i naš Marin Gazarović u svojim stihovima
tvrdi da je tibidrago, vrlo dobro vino. Ipak, nijedno od tih vina nije se moglo usporediti s njegovom višćinom, starom vugavom iz vlastitih viških vinograda, kojom je ujedno krijepio, smirivao ili budio svoj čas vedar, a čas melankoličan značaj. Pa bi podigao pehar i zazvonili bi iz iz njega stihovi kao klokot žednih gutljaja: Ovu čašu, radost našu, / Jel istino Viško vino! / Vavik rodi ti Višćino, / Vavik rodi ti Višćino! A sa stola s kojeg su se umiljavali mirisi ribe, aromatičnoga bilja i meda, pomiješani s vonjem pirjanaca od divljači i kozletine, uzdigutih pehara odgovarali bi njegovi plemeniti uzvanici: Lip junače, vina slače, / Ka daš piti, htij naliti / Ovu čašu, radost našu, / Jel istino Viško vino! / Vavik rodi ti Višćino, / Vavik rodi ti Višćino!, pa onda i putene gospe sa otoka, stvarne ili nestvarne, žive ili
Ribanje Petra Hektorovića 130
The Fishing of Petar Hektorović veljko jelabarbieri starih barda fotografija: damir fabijanić
tek rođene u njegovim stihovima: ... Tvardi and relishing good wine. Hektorović would like the gurgle of parched swallows: “This have offered us, if his fisherman Paskoje glass our joy I raise / Is it real wine from ratnici, / Vi ljubljenici, / Oružje vi znate / is to be believed, a cup of Muškatil, the Vis / Always give birth to Višćino / Only Ko u vas imate, / Svi hod te veseli, / Bit se original Muškat of Hvar, the Darnekuša, give birth to Višćino”. And from the table koji želi. / Ujmi, Ujmi, svaki viči! / Oružjem strict Hanibal Lucic would have brought from which gently rose the scents of fish, tim ljuto siči! out the then highly valued Tibidrago, herbs and honey, mixed with the smell of Pa je tako puteno polegla noć na Gazarovićev život. Ohladila se hrana na praznom probably a Plavac, which according to a sautéed game and chevon, with goblets stolu njegova ljetnikovca, vino je isparilo iz document of 1529 he produced himself. It raised, his noble guests would reply: … and zanesena duha i tijela. Uspeo se Marin u is interesting that Marko Marulić expor- then the sensual ladies of the island, real Nebo svojoj voljenoj kćeri i nesretnom sinu. ted the same wine to Venice and that our or unreal, alive or born only in his verses: Potom je naišao mračni oblak kao i toliko Marin Gazarović in his verses claimed that “You hard soldiers / You skilful lovers / puta dotad u njegovu životu i svod je postao Tibidrago was an excellent wine. Indeed You know what weapons / You all have / nevidljiv. Od vremena do vremena, u dugim none of these wines can be compared to Come unto us lusting/ Each who wants to razmacima, pomaknulo bi se posve tiho koje his Vis wine, old Vugava from his own join the combat / Take, take, each one yell rame, kuk ili koljeno, tražeći u tijesnom groVis vineyards, which he used to restore, / With his sweet weapon thrusting.” bu Gazarovića eliksir života, pečenu ribu, calm or awaken his at times cheery and And just so did night lie down uupon at times melancholy temper. And he would Gazarović’s life. The food cooled on the meso ili pehar vina, snagu za spasonosno čudo, ili tek povoljniji položaj za spavanje, u raise the cup ring out verses from tablewhich of hisof villa, Ribanje petra hektorovića It is notand possible to determine withit anyempty certainty the the wine evaporavječnosti koja se polako približava. Ne može se sa sigurnošću tvrditi koji je od dva hvarska two Hvar centres is the native town of Petar Hektorović, for središta rodni grad Petra Hektorovića, budući da i za Stari there are plenty of arguments in favour of both Stari Grad Grad, u kojem je proveo najveći dio svog života, u bukoličkoj – where he spent most of his life in the bucolic atmosphere of atmosferi polja i pašnjaka, kao i za Novi Grad, kako ga pje- its fields and meadows – and Novi Grad, as the poet calls it snik naziva u svom najpoznatijem djelu Ribanju i ribarskom in his best-known work Fishing and Fishermen’s Talk, today’s prigovaranju, današnji grad Hvar, onako okrenut moru i Hvar city, oriented to the sea and the large port, then the svojoj velikoj luci, tada zimovalištu mletačke mornarice, ima winter quarters of the Venetian navy. In the spring of 1487 the Hektorović family had for centuries dovoljno argumenata. Jer Hektorovići su tog proljeća 1487, u tom za Petra presudnom trenutku, već stoljećima bili stari been part of a wealthy patrician clan that was proud of its i imućni plemićki rod koji se dičio svojim posjedima, kućama estates, houses and palaces in both Stari Grad and Hvar, as i palaćama, podjednako u Starome Gradu, koliko u Hvaru i well as on the island of Vis. Nor did their commune lag behind na Visu. No ni njihova komuna nije zaostajala u sjaju. Naime in its fame. When at the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries kada Hektorović na prijelomu 15. i 16. stoljeća počne poha- Hektorović went to the commune school of Hvar, where they đati komunalnu školu u Hvaru, gdje ga podučavaju „gramati- taught him grammar, rhetoric, the whole art of poetry and ci, retorici, cijeloj pjesničkoj umjetnosti i naukama koje budu the sciences that will be required for the pupils of this district, potrebne učenicima ovog distrikta“, Hvar je već obećavajući Hvar was already and island and community that promised otok i zajednica koja uskoro doseže komunalni prihod od and that would soon achieve an annual commune revenue of blizu osamdeset tisuća dukata godišnje, ubiran ponajviše od eighty thousand ducats, mostly derived from the tax on salted poreza na trgovinu usoljenom, čak i suhom ribom, mesom i fish, dried fish, meat and cured meat, mainly lamb and kid, as suhim mesom, ponajprije janjećim i kozlećim, ali i kaštradi- well as on bullocks and arable products, herbs and good wine. nom, poljodjelstvenim proizvodima svog agrara, začinima i This was the biggest export in the whole of Venetian Dalmatia, dobrim vinom. Golem iznos za ono vrijeme, najveći u cijeloj so rashly sold by Ladislav of Naples to La Serenissima at the venecijanskoj Dalmaciji, tako brzopleto prodanoj od strane beginning of the century in which Petar was born, for an only Ladislava Napuljskog Serenissimi u lagunama, na početku slightly larger sum of money, one hundred thousand ducats. stoljeća Petrova rođenja, za tek nešto veću svotu, od sto So then, at the time when Hektorović was born, the island was tisuća dukata. Dakle, otok, u doba kada je na svijet došao well nigh capable, from tax alone, of redeeming the whole of Hektorović, mogao je potencijalno samo od poreza na dobit Dalmatia in a single year. But of course the distribution of od svojih namirnica, plodova svog mora i kopna, onodobnih the surplus from the commune’s budget, and the revenues gastronomskih potrepština i vina, vjerojatno bajama i pro- from the lands themselves went, apart from to Venice, above šeka, gotovo sam u jednoj godini otkupiti cijelu Dalmaciju. all to the landowners, which was to cause one of the first No raspodjela viška komunalne kase, ali i sami prihodi od revolutions in Europe – the Hvar commoners’ insurrection of imanja, osim Veneciji, bili su namijenjeni prvenstveno vlaste- 1510-1514. This bloody social revolt was led paradoxically by li, što će i prouzročiti jednu od prvih građanskih revolucija the wealthiest commoner on the island, Matija Ivanić, a wine Europe, Hvarski pučki ustanak (1510-1514). Krvavi društve- merchant, a major landowner and ship owner. The social ni prevrat, paradoksalno predvođen upravo najbogatijim lines of force crossed practically directly because of the profit pučaninom na otoku, Matijom Ivanićem, trgovcem vinom, on food and wine, which would have a direct effect on the latifundistom i brodovlasnikom. Dakle, socijalne su se silnice whole of Petar’s life. gotovo izravno ukrstile zbog dobiti na hrani i vinu, što će Hvar festivities izravno obilježiti i cijeli Petrov život. A život pjesnika Ribanja i ribarskog prigovaranja, ali i And the life of the poet of Fishing and Fishermen’s Talk, the graditelja starograjskog Tvrdalja, a da on toga sam nije bio builder of the Tvrdalj in Stari Grad, even if he was not himself u potpunosti svjestan, doslovce je vezan uz hranu, pučka i completely aware of it, was bound up with food, the dishes vlastelinska jela koja se u njemu probavljaju u sokovima na- of the commoners and the gentry that were digested in juices bijenim poetskim izričajem i doživljavaju kao istinski užitak u packed with poetic expression and experienced as a genuine životu i bašćini, shvaćenoj kao božanska priroda i najviši izraz pleasure in life and in the heritage, understood as the divine njezine istinske i iskrene ćudi. Bilo da se dopisuje s dubrovač- nature, and the highest expression of its genuine and sincere kim pjesnikom i redovnikom dum Mavrom Vetranovićem, temperament. Whether he was corresponding with the Dukoji mu je poslao sadnice za njegov Tvrdalj kako sam kaže u brovnik poet and religious Mavro Vetranović, who had sent poslanici od 3. travnja 1539: ... i razlika voća držeći rod svaki him plants for his Tvrdalj, as he himself says in an epistle of / od kojijeh još voća jakno raj zemaljski / i tvoj golubinjak i April 3, 1539: And various fruit of every race / The earthly paodrine gizdave / tvrdi most i ribnjak i ostale naprave/, bilo radise to grace / Your dovecote and pergola ornate / Bridge, da sa Nikolom Nalješkovićem, također renesansnim dubro- fishponds, the whole estate, or with Nikola Nalješković, also vačkim bardom i osiromašenim trgovcem koji je izabranici a Renaissance poet from Dubrovnik and impoverished mersvog srca slao na dar ribu i uživao u karnevalskim delicijama, chant, who sent fish to his beloved as a present and relished raspravlja o biti i vrijednosti pjesništva i života kojemu su se carnival sweetmeats, he discussed the essence and values of podavali svaki na svoj način. Hektorović u ruralnoj atmosferi poetry and life to which each of them in their own way were Staroga Grada, a Vetranović i Nalješković u renesansnoj vrevi equally devoted. In the rural atmosphere of Stari Grad Heknjihova Dubrovnika. Pa ipak u činjenici da je oligarhijski Du- torović, and Vjetranović and Naljesković in the Renaissance Kokoš u crnom vinu
ted from the enthusiastic body and soul. Marin climbed to heaven to his loved daughter and unhappy son. Then a dark cloud came by, and as so many times before in his life, the vault became again invisible. From time to time, in long intervals, very quietly an occasional shoulder, hip or knee would move, seeking in the still grave Gazarović’s elixir of life, the grilled fish, meat or the goblet of wine, the power for a revitalising miracle, or perhaps just a better position for sleeping, in the eternity that was slowly coming closer.
komadi oborite ribe jastog kapula ili crveni luk češnjak ili bijeli luk petrusimul ili peršin riža lovor maslinovo ulje bijelo vino sol i papar
1 Zajedno sa sjeckanim češnjakom, na maslinovu ulju zazlatite kapulu isječenu na kolute. Dodajte komade ribe i jastoga pa podlijte vodom i vinom tako da pokrije ribu. 2 Ubacite lovor, petrusimul i začine te kad sve provrije uspite rižu pa nastavite kuhati dok sastojci ne omekšaju i ne uguste se u gustu riblju juhu. 3 Pustite da gregada malo odstoji, pa poslužite vruće. (Danas je krumpir nezaobilazan u hvarskoj gregadi i to izrezan na ploške u istom omjeru kao kapula, ali ga u Hektorovićevo vrijeme još nije bilo na Hvaru ni u Veneciji, a i riža je stigla nedavno. Umjesto nje upotrebljavao se ječam.)
Hvar Gregada pieces of fine white fish from a stony bottom 2 kg lobster 1 kg onion 1.5 kg garlic 10 cloves parsley a bunch bay leaves 2 rice 150 g olive oil 200 cc white wine 100 cc salt and paper
1 Komade domaće kokoši propirjajte na maslinovu ulju zajedno s povrćem i sjeckanom pancetom. 2 Sve zajedno tušite sa začinima, ružmarinom i majčinom dušicom, podlijevajući crnim vinom, prošekom i kvasinom. Kad meso omekša, a povrće se počne raspadati, izvadite komade kokoši, odstranite začinsko bilje, a posteljicu od povrća protisnite u umak. Tada u njega vratite meso, začinite klinčićima, oraščićem i cimetom i pustite da se sve prožme. 3 Služite s domaćim makarunima.
1 Fry chopped garlic and onion rings until golden brown in the olive oil. Add pieces of fish and lobster and cover with water and wine, until the pieces are covered. 2 Put in the bay, parsley and seasoning and when it comes to the boil scatter in the rice, and go on cooking until the ingredients soften and turn into a thick fish soup. 3 Let the gregada stand a little, but serve hot. (Today potato is an essential in gregada from Hvar, cut into slices in the same ratio as onion, but in Hektorović’s time it was neither in Hvar nor in Venice, while rice had come a short time before. Or barley would have been used instead.)
122
Zeleni snovi Ivana Gundulića
The Green Dreams of Ivan Gundulić veljko barbieri fotografija: damir fabijanić
vlaho bukovac, gundulićev san, moderna galerija zagreb
Kada su se u Europi, posebno po sredozemnim grado- When in Europe, particularly around the Mediterranean vima-državama, već raspršile duhovne i hedonističke iluzije city states, spiritual and hedonistic illusions about total o potpunoj slobodi i neograničenoj spoznaji shvaćenoj kao freedom and unlimited breadth of knowledge understood epikurejski, ali i platonistički užitak u ljepoti i pojavnostima as an Epicurean and a Platonic pleasure in beauty and the stvari, svijeta i svemira, a teški nemiri potresli taj obnovljeni appearances of things, the world and the universe had alkontinentalni kozmos, koji je postajao sve manji, koliko su bile ready evaporated, and serious agitations had shaken this veće atlantske i pacifičke miljarine španjolskih, portugalskih, renovated continental cosmos which was becoming ever engleskih, poslije i francuskih i nizozemskih nava i galijuna, the smaller the greater the mileages covered by the SpanDubrovnik je još jače tonuo u već nagriženoj samodovoljnosti ish, Portuguese, English and later the French and Dutch u svijetu i vremenu koje je otkrivalo nova obzorja i kontinente. galleons, Dubrovnik sank still more into its already eroded Trebalo je još jednom posegnuti za iluzijom. Ako nije zaživjela self-satisfaction in a world and time that had discovered new na stvarnosnoj razini, valjalo ju je ostvariti na imaginarnoj horizons and new continents. Once again they had to resort pozornici na kojoj su, činilo se, temeljne vrijednosti na kojima to illusion. If it did not survive at the level of reality, then je počivao poredak i sloboda Republike Svetoga Vlahajela još starih it had tobarda be achieved on the imaginary stage on which, it uvijek bile zaštićene Božjom milošću i pravednošću koja seemed, the fundamental values on which the system and je bdjela nad Gradom u posrtanju. Tu je utjehu, jednom freedom of the Republic of St Blaise were still protected by Juha od raštanog kupusa Soup of borecole važnoj mediteranskoj državici, sada potisnutoj u drugi plan, the Grace of God and righteousness that watched over the ponajbolje darovao najveći pjesnik kojega je Dubrovnik dao, city in its stumbling. This consolation to the once-important
domaća kokoš 101 oko 3 kg suha panceta 150 g kapula ili crveni luk 4 češnjak ili bijeli luk 5 češnja lovorov list 4 majčina dušica 1 stručak ružmarin 1 grančica klinčić 5 ribani muškatni oraščić 1 žličica cimet u prahu 1 žličica kvasina 1 dl crno vino 1 dl prošek 2 dl maslinovo ulje 3 dl sol i papar
2 kg 1kg 1 ½ kg 10 češnja 1 vezica 150 g 2 lista 2 dl 1 dl
1 For about half an hour, mix together the yolks and the sugar and add the ground carob and breadcrumbs that you have left several minutes in the prošek and at the end the whipped four whites. 2 Fold in all the ingredients and pour into a round cake tin and bake for about 45 minutes in a moderate oven. 3 Take out and decorate with melted chocolate (in Benetović’s time the cakes were decorated with whipped egg whites).
jela starih barda
131
Hvarska gregada 100
jaja šećer mast amonijak vanilin-šećer mlijeko mištro brasno
ground carob 250 g sugar 250 g eggs 4 sifted breadcrumbs 50 g prošek (croatian dessert wine) 150 cc melted chocolate 200 cc
100
raštika ili raštani kupus 1 kg kapula / luk 2 panceta / slanina 50 g juha od kaštradine ili suhog mesa ½ l mast 50 g maslinovo ulje ½ dl papar
borecole onion bacon or pancetta stock of cured meat lard olive oil pepper
1 U vodi pomiješanoj s juhom od suhoga mesa kuhajte očišćenu i sitno izrezanu raštiku zajedno s dvjema sjeckanim kapulama. 2 Kad kupus omekša, protisnite ga kroz cjedilo ili zajedno s juhom sameljite štapnim mikserom. Popaprite i zalijte maslinovim uljem. Na kraju u juhu uspite tek zazlaćenu pancetu koju ste prethodno izrezali na ploškice i kratko prepržili na masti. 3 Dodajte juhi od raštanoga kupusa i tu masnoću pa promiješajte i poslužite vruće.
1 In water mixed with the dried meat (of dried mutton for example) cook the cleaned and finely chopped borecole together with the two chopped onions 2 When the cabbage gets softer pass it through a sieve or together with the soup grind with a mixer. Season with pepper and pour the olive oil over it. At the end scatter into the soup the just browned pancetta that has been previously cut into dice and quickly fried in the lard. 3 Add this fat to the borecole soup and mix, serve very hot.
Ivan Frano Gundulić, zvan i Mačica, kako zbog blage naravi i duha, tako i zbog osobne tjelesne ljepote. Pa ipak, ma koliko djelima dosegnuo vrh naše stare književnosti, koji možda zaostaje jedino za Marulićem i Držićem, od kojih je na svoj način preuzimao i učio, s Ivanom Gundulićem zatvara se i obzorje životnih nagnuća i makar iz prikrajka gastronomskih uzanci koje su još vladale Gradom i njegovim građanima, plemstvom i pučanima, koji su svaki na svoj način vjerovali da vrijeme stoji i da se ni svijet oko njih, ni u njima samima, nije nimalo promijenio. Gundulić je stoga ogledni primjerak svoje sredine i svoga Dubrovnika i nitko od njegovih prethodnika, osim možda udvornoga Nalješkovića, koji je to činio iz osobne životne nužde, nije ideju slobodne i pravedne Republike postavio na više postolje. Pa bilo ono podignuto samo od stihova. Njegovo najpoznatije djelo, nikada dovršen ep Osman, posve je suvremen spjev koji u tragediji mladoga turskog sultana poražena kod Hoćima i uspjehu kršćanskog te sve-
1 kg 2 50 g 500 cc 50 g 50 cc
Mediterranean statelet, was best given by the greatest poet that Dubrovnik provided, Ivan Frano Gundulić, also known as Mačica or Kitten, because of his mild temper and spirit and because of the physical beauty of his person. And yet, however much in his works he scaled the peaks of our older literature, behind perhaps only Marulić and Držić, from whom in his own way he learned and adopted, with Ivano Gundulić the horizon of vital impulses closed, even from that nook of gastronomic pleasures that still ruled the city and its citizens, patricians and commoners, who each in their own way believed that time stood still, and that neither the world around them nor within them had changed at all. Gundulić is thus a model example of his milieu and his Dubrovnik and none of his predecessors, apart from perhaps the deferential Nalješković, who had succumbed out of the exigencies of his personal life, placed the idea of a free and just republic on a higher pedestal. Even if it were composed only of verses. Gundulić’s best known work, the epic, never finished, called Osman, is an entirely contemporary poem that in the tragedy of the young Turkish sultan defeated at Khotyn and in the success of Christian and pan-Slav arms led by Polish King Wladyslaw, discovered serious lines of fault in the Ottoman Empire that was so important for Dubrovnik, as well as the implacable fate that cast down the individual in conflict with state authority, in a work of literature in which for the first time in Croatian literature the topic of politics directly developed into a literary subject. Osman is perhaps the highest step in Gundulić’s literary ascent, but since we are moving in the world of the scents and savours of past times, in this epic of the Kitten we have no footing whatsoever. It is hard to find anything in his few extant youthful dramas and Petrarchan verses, we have literally pluck out a very tiny but still visible culinary and hedonistic signpost from his pastoral drama Dubravka and to some extent in the poetic discourse Tears of the Prodigal Son, although they were written with totally different intentions in life and art. Still, this meagre inventory leaves us enough space to recognise in Ivano Gundulić in a gastronomic sense the inheritor and last guardian of an inheritance that marked the works of his predecessors. Master Ivano Frano Gundulić, the greatest poet in the Croatian Baroque, was born into a wealthy landowning and merchant family in probably 1589, some twenty two years, then, after the death of Držić. He was different from his famous and important predecessor in almost everything, although he inherited from him many seemingly insignificant things that are for us nevertheless important determinations, each of which in its own way painted the pulse of the thalassocratic and oligarchic republic. Držić was commoner and rebel, Gundulić was a member of the aristocratic Senate, and before his death of the highest institution in the city, the Small Council, which was, essentially, the government. Držić was an adventurous soul, a traveller and exile, who died far from the city; Gundulić, by contrast, spent almost the whole of his life in the calm of Dubrovnik in which he was educated, lived, had important duties, and, what is most important, wrote of as the ideal of his own concept of what a city state ought to be, the reverse face of which was so frightened by Svinjska pečenica, pečenice the rebellious Otter (Držić). iStill, they are linked by what are krvavice sa zeljem i suhim for us important crumbs at the common table. First, a kind šljivama svježi svinjski kotleti suha svinjska pečenica duvenica / krvavica slanina mrkva kapula lovorov list kiseli kupus otkoštene suhe šljive bijelo vino mast sol, papar
1 Na gradelama ispecite svinjske kotlete zajedno s ploškama prosušene pečenice (pečenicu valja samo malo prepeći s obiju strana da je tek uhvati žar) i krvavicama. 2 Do tada na masti zazlatite sjeckanu kapulu i mrkvu zajedno sa slaninom pa dodajte kiseli kupus i prijajte ga dugo podlijevajući bijelim vinom dok sasvim ne uvene. Tada ubacite otkoštene suhe šljive, začinite cimetom i pirjajte dalje pomalo podlijevajući vodom dok se šljive ne skuhaju. 3 Poslužite zajedno.
Fowl in red wine free range fowl pancetta onion garlic bay leaf thyme rosemary clove ground nutmeg powered cinnamon vinegar red win prošek olive oil salt and pepper
about 3 kg 150 g 4 medium 5 cloves 4 small bunch one sprig 5 1 teaspoon 1 teaspoon 100 cc 100 cc 200 cc 300 cc
1 Sautee pieces of fowl with garlic, onion and chopped pancetta in olive oil. 2 Sweat everything with the seasoning, rosemary and thyme, pour on wine, vinegar and prošek. When the meat is soft and the vegetables are starting to fall apart, remove the fowl, remove the herbs, and puree the remains. Then put back the meat, season with cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon, and let it all infuse. 3 Serve with home-made pasta.
jela starih barda
Mantala
Mantala
mošt ili mast 4l pšenično brašno 1 ½ šalice muškatni oraščić 2 žličice šećer 1 ½ šalica soka limuna ½ čaše naribana limunova kora 1 žlica
must wheat flour nutmeg sugar lemon juice grated zest
1 Kuhajte mošt ili mast dok ne ostane samo polovica tekućine. Na laganoj vatri uz stalno miješanje dodavajte brašno, muškatni oraščić i šećer. Pri kraju ulijte sok i ribanu koricu limuna, pa pustite da ugusti. 2 Izlijte mantalu u duguljastu posudu i ostavite dva dana na hladnom mjestu. Režite na kocke ili kriške i služite s crnim vinom.
1 Boil off the must until it is reduced by half. On a gentle heat, with constant mixing, add the flour, nutmeg and sugar. At the end, pour in the juice and zest, and let it all get thick. 2 Pour this mantala into a longish dish and let it stand two days in a cool place. Cut into cubes or slices and serve with red wine.
Od razmjerna blagostanja do siromaštva,
108 106
101 ½ kg ½ kg ½ kg 100 g 1 1 2 1 kg 50 g 2 dl 50 g
od mladenačkih trgovačkih pustolovina
107
- od Levanta do Venecije - od omiljenosti do
Roast pork, roast sausages and black pudding with cabbage and stoned prunes fresh pork chops 500 g dried pork roasting sausages500 g black pudding 500 g bacon 100 g carrot 1 onion 1 bay leaf 2 sauerkraut 1 kg stoned prunes 50 g white wine 200 cc lard 50 g salt, pepper 1 On a griddle grill the pork chops together with slices of well cured pork grilling sausages (they need to be grilled only a little on each side, just to catch the heat) and the black pudding. 2 At the same time, brown the chopped onion and carrot with the bacon, and add the sauerkraut, and sweat it long, pouring over the white wine until it becomes completely soft. Then throw in the stoned prunes, spice with cinnamon and keep on sweating until the prunes are cooked and soft, adding water. 3 Serve together.
From relative prosperity to poverty, from
109
youthful commercial adventures – from the
amours to lust, from enterprise to astronomy,
pjesništva i komedija, odvijao se dugi život
123
Levant to Venice – from grace and favour to the debtors’ prison of Dubrovnik, from tender
ljubavi do tjelesne strasti, od poduzetništva do stihova, lascivnih maskerata, ponajprije
1 Odvojite bjelanjak od žumanjaka pa od bjelanjka istucite snijeg, koji pomiješajte s žumanjcima, masti i šećerom, te nastavite miješati dok ne dobijete glatku smjesu. 2 U posudi od 1 l ugrijte ¼ l mlijeka, dodajte amonijak, ulijte mištro, vanilinšećer i brašno te na kraju smjesu od jaja, masti i šećera i miješajte sve dok ne dobijete glatko tijesto. Tada ga tanko razvaljajte, kalupima oblikujte cvite i pecite ih u ulju dok ne postanu prhki i ne dobiju koricu. 3 Služite cvite posute sitnim šećerom.
4l 1 and one half cup 2 teaspoons 1 and one half cup half a glass 1 spoon
dubrovačke dužničke tamnice, od nježne astronomije, moralističkih poslanica i nabožnih
8 100 g 300 g 60 g 50 g ¼ dl 2 dl 1 kg
moralistic epistles and devotional verses, licentious masks and above all poetry and comedies – so wen
jednog od naših najvažnijih renesansnih pisaca Nikole Nalješkovića.
Kuh n a čakovečk h Zr nsk h
Iza maske i škura Nikole Nalješkovića Behind the mask and shutters of Nikola Nalješković jela starih barda
jela starih barda
Kupus s prosenom kašom listovi kiselog kupusa prosena kaša sjeckani crveni luk sjeckana slanina maslac sol i papar
12 ¼ kg 2 100 g 80 g
1 Prosenu kašu prelijte vrućom vodom, ocijedite i popaprite. 2 Uzmite list kupusa i stavite u njega kašu, drugim listom pokrijte (ili smotajte kao sarmu) pa lijepo redom složite u lonac, nalijte vode koliko treba, dodajte maslac, dobro skuhajte i dodajte malo upržena luka sa zastakljenom slaninom. * Ovakve svitke ili sarme od kupusa može se puniti i s ½ kg mljevena mesa kratko propirjana na masti, koje se potom prije punjenja kupusa pomiješa s kuhanim prosom ili heljdinom kašom, kako se i danas priprema međimurska sarma od kupusa.) (Svi su recepti iz kuharice Nikole Zrinskoga, a pripremio ih je Ivan Čehok, glavni kuhar čakovečkog restorana Katarina Zrinska) 130
Veal with spinach
Trout
teleći fileti ili meso od kopunovih prsiju ½ kg špinat 1kg brašno 1žlica maslac 30 g prstohvat šafrana đumbir 10 g sol i papar
veal fillet or meat from a capon’s breast 500 g spinach 1 kg flour 1 dessert spoon butter 30 g pinch of saffron ginger 10 g salt and pepper
a trout of chopped onion butter wine wine vinegar honey pinch of saffron salt and pepper
1 Meso skuhajte i ocijedite pa izrežite na ploške te posolite i popaprite. 2 Potom uzmite lijepe listove špinata i skuhajte ih, procijedite i stavite unutra papra, šafrana, đumbira. Stavite i malo umućena brašna i maslaca te sve promiješajte. Kopuna pripremite na isti način. (Meso se može podliti s malo maslinova ulja i poslužiti se zajedno sa začinjenim špinatom.)
1 Cook the meat and drain, cut into slices, salt and pepper. 2 Then take some nice spinach leaves and cook them, drain and put the pepper, saffron and ginger in it. Put in a little mixed flour and butter and mix them all together. Prepare the capon in a similar way (the meat can be moistened with a little olive oil and severed with the spiced spinach).
1 Cook the fish in salted water and vinegar together with sharp soup. 2 Make sharp soup by sautéing the onion in butter, pouring over wine and honey, seasoning with saffron and pepper, and thicken while stirring. This soup, or sauce, can be served with the fish. 3 Serve with pepper butter
Cabbage with millet groats
Pastrva
sour cabbage leaves millet groats chopped onion chopped bacon butter salt and pepper
pastrva sjeckani crveni luk maslac vino vinski ocat med prstohvat šafrana sol i papar
12 250 g 2 100 g 80 g
1 Pour boiling water over the groats, then drain and season with pepper. 2 Take a leaf of cabbage, put the groats in it, cover with another leaf (or roll),and in order put them in a pot, pour over the water as needed, add the butter, cook well and add a little fried onion with the slightly fried bacon. * These rolls can also be stuffed with 500 g of minced meat fried for a short time in lard, which is then, before the leaves are stuffed, mixed with boiled millet or buckwheat groats, as Međimurje cabbage sarma is prepared today. (All the recipes are from the cookery book of Nikola Zrinski, and have been tested and prepared by Ivan Čehok, chef of the Čakovec Katarina Zrinski Restaurant.)
veljko barbieri fotografija: damir fabijanić
Teletina sa špinatom
Kad se rodio negdje oko 1500. te završio školovanje u komunalnoj školi u Gradu, zajedno s ocem, a uskoro i sam, budući da su mu otac, potom i majka umrli kada je imao tek nešto više od navršenih 25 godina - iste godine 1526. kada je za pohare velike kuge umro i njegov uzor i znanac stari bard Šiško Menčetić nastavio je, brinući se sada sam za obitelj i braću, trgovačka putovanja iz jednom razmjerno sigurne obiteljske luke i vratio se natrag kući s teretom trgovačkog neuspjeha koji će ga na ovaj ili onaj način pratiti cijeloga života. Ipak, na svoju sreću i nesreću bio je predodređeni pjesnik, ali i znanstvenik, i tim se sklonostima posvetio čitavim svojim bićem. Tako je u onoj oligarhijskoj, samodovoljnoj i često licemjernoj rodnoj Republici, koja ga je i kao pučanina, a još više kao neuspješna trgovca, dužnika i propala poslovnog čovjeka doživljavala kao nesposobnjakovića i na njega gledala s prezirom, stvorio djelo, neveliko po opsegu, ali nezaobilazno u našoj cjelokupnoj književnosti. Do te mjere da je zbog tih talenata i sposobnosti da premosti razlike među našim humanističkim i renesansnim književnicima otkupio i dugove i prezir i postao cijenjen za života, posebno nakon smrti, a pisana su mu pjesnička i znanstvena djela pribavila u mladosti uskraćeno poštovanje. Jer njegov je književni opus koji je bio dobro poznat njegovim suvremenicima s kojima se dopisivao i razmjenjivao poslanice i slao im hvale i pjesničke laude, doslovce potičući sve oko sebe na književni rad, bio i tada prepoznat kao nadareno i sustavno, umno i duhovito pjesničko i komediografsko djelo, koje se čitalo, prepisivalo i dijelilo s ushitom. Kako je u Povijesti hrvatske književnosti zapisao Slobodan Prosperov Novak: Vodio je živu pjesničku korespondenciju s Nikolom Dimitrovićem…, koji je upravo njemu usmjerio nekoliko opisa Bliskog istoka i Turske. Nekom vrstom Nalješkovićeva društvenog zaštitnika bio je i Nikša Ranjina, koji je kao dječak stvorio najvažniju hrvatsku antologiju petrarkističke poezije... Bio je Nalješković prijatelj s Mikšom Pelegrinovićem, s kojim je podijelio ljubav prema maskeratama i karnevalima, a osobito Nadjeveno teleće pleće (plećka) s Petrom Hektorovićem, koji je pobolijevao od podagre i kojemu je (tu se već dotičemo gastronomije ili barem gastroteleći but oko 1 kg nomske ezoterije, op.a.) uputio zaštitničku pjesmu i obratio jaja u kajgani konavoski pršut ribani muškatni oraščić malo cimeta sol i papar ulje
350 g 2 50 g 20 cc 100 cc 50 cc
2 100 g 1 žličica
1 Teleće meso odvojite od kostiju pa istucite u što pravilniji odrezak. Posolite ga i popaprite, pa na njega položite pršut u trakama i jaja u kajgani u koju ste ubacili muškatni oraščić. Kajganu pravilno rasprostrite po pršutu i mesu pa napravite roladu, koju vežite kuharskim konopcem. 2 Roladu posolite i popaprite, premažite s malo mljevena cimeta pa sa svih strana pecite na namašćenom limu dok ne dobije zlatnu koricu. Malo ohladite te roladu oprezno izrežite na ploške i služite s kuhanom blitvom ili cvjetačom. (Rekonstrukcija prema predlošku Ortensina Landa, Venecija, 16. stoljeće)
Stuffed shoulder of veal veal shoulder scrambled egg konavle prosciutto grated nutmeg a little cinnamon salt and pepper oil
350 g 2 50 g 2dl 1dl ½ dl 1
about 1 kg 2 100 g 1 tsp
1 Bone the meat and beat it into one regular shaped cutlet. Salt and pepper, place on it strips of prosciutto and scrambled egg, flavoured with nutmeg. Spread the scrambled egg evenly over the prosciutto, and the meat, and make a roll, tying it up with string. 2 Salt and pepper the roll, rub a little ground cinnamon over it and roast it on a greased baking tin, turning it on all sides so it gets a golden brown crust. Let it cool a little, carefully cut it into slices, and serve with boiled chard or cauliflower. (A reconstruction from the original of Ortensino Landi, Venice, 16th century)
1 Skuhajte ribu u slanoj vodi i octu zajedno s oštrom juhom. 2 Oštru juhu pripremite tako da na maslacu zazlatite sjeckani crveni luk, podlijte vinom i medom, začinite šafranom i paprom, pa sve kuhajući ugustite. Oštra juha, zapravo jušni umak, može se i poslužiti s ribom. 3 Poslužite s paprom na maslacu.
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Dubrovnik candied orange peel
Dubrovački orancini
seville (type) orange peel sugar water
kore od naranači šećer voda
500 g 1 kg
1 Leave strips of Seville orange to stand in water 3 to 4 days 2 Drain, and toss over half the sugar, and cook, pouring over 100 cc of water, until the liquid evaporates. 3 Drain again, roll the peel in the rest of the sugar, and let it dry in the air until the peel is hard outside and still soft inside. (Original medieval recipe)
½ kg 1 kg
1 Izrezane trake kore divljih naranči ostavite u vodi da odstoje 3 - 4 dana. 2 Ocijedite ih i pospite polovicom količine šećera, pa pirjajte podlijevajući 1 dl vode dok tekućina ne ispari. 3 Ponovno ih ocijedite, uvaljajte orancine u ostatak šećera te pustite da se suše na zraku dok se ne stvrdnu izvana, a unutra ostanu meki. (Izvorni stari srednjovjekovni recept)
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