April newsletter 2014

April 2014

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Former Touring Car Champion, John Cleland, backs Advanced Driving: A former British Touring Car champion is backing a scheme to get young people to improve their driving skills. The skills for life programme is aimed at reducing the numbers of fatalities and casualties on roads in the Scottish Borders. Up to 400 young people will now be able to take their Advanced Driving Test free of charge, thanks to funding from Scottish Borders Council. Those behind the scheme, including former racing driver John Cleland, hope it will set a benchmark for the rest of the UK. Source Border News Observer Training: The Group is running an Observer Training Course, starting on 4th May. Trainee Observers are Mark Nattrass (Car); Darryl Francis (Car theory only); Martin Hirst (Bike); Andy Houghton (Bike) and Richard Lowe (Bike). The course starts with a full day of Theory followed by an intensive on-road training period, which is spread over a number of weeks. The Observers will be trained to the new Local Observer standard.

 Call for 20mph speed limit: Residential streets in cities, towns and villages should all be targeted to slash fatalities, says charity group Brake.

Nearly eight of out of ten members of the public backed the move with many complaining that speedy drivers were often a Inside this Issue: menace in their neighbourhoods.

2. Editorial 3. Defensive Driving 5. Driving Licence on line 5. Showing courtesy to others 6. Servo assisted brakes 7. Biker Corner: 7. What if it goes wrong in a bend?

9. Always give up position for safety 10. Motorcycle safety 10. Skidding 11. Annual subscriptions 12. CWCAM Committee members

But motoring groups said cutting the speed from 30mph would be a “backward step” and was simply “bashing” drivers. Brake’s demands could revive plans for lower speed limits by Labour, which were shelved when the party lost the last election.

Researchers found about 80 per cent of people think it should be the norm around schools, in residential streets and in village, town and city centres.

The GO 20 campaign is about defending everyone’s right to walk and cycle freely without being endangered: to learn more, click the following link; http://www.brake.org.uk/take-action/20splenty.htm Source: Express

+ Reminder for those who have not paid their £12 Subscription to the Group. Please support your Group in our efforts to improve road safety in our area!!

(See page 11 for payment methods and details).

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Fancy a new coffee table ladies?

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Defensive Driving: (Everything said in this article about defensive driving, applies equally to defensive riding!)

Defensive Driving is a term often used, but what exactly is it?

‘A Defensive Driver is one who is constantly aware of road related hazards, whilst always trying to reduce the risk those hazards present.’

That could equally be a definition of Advanced Driving, so when you were learning from your Observer and preparing for the Advanced Driving Test, you were learning Defensive Driving techniques, whether the term ‘Defensive Driving’ was used or not.

Advanced Drivers are taught to apply the SYSTEM of car control. By doing so, the driver is constantly taking in Information using it and giving new information to other road users by simply concentrating on the road, observing what is going on and anticipating all possible outcomes. The best Position is then taken on approach to any real or potential hazard: that is the position that minimises risk to the driver and all other road users likely to be affected by the hazard. Speed is then adjusted (normally reduced) until the driver obtains the appropriate speed that allows the hazard to be dealt with safely. The relevant Gear is taken to match this appropriate speed and when safe to do so, the driver Accelerates away from the Hazard gaining speed –if safe to do so- as the risk reduces.

When driving in a SYSTEMATIC manner, you are driving defensively!

Defensive driving therefore heightens your awareness of everything happening on the road around you. By developing defensive driving techniques and by realising that every time you drive there is risk to your safety, you reduce the chance of being involved in an incident. Bikers in particular consider that everyone on the road is out ‘to get them’ and they ride accordingly: the Advanced Rider in particular is very aware of the effects that mistakes made by other road users may have on their safety!

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I tell all my car and bike trainees, at whatever level they are learning, to be as pessimistic about safety as possible: always think the worst will happen and prepare for that eventuality. This philosophy was well and truly drummed in to me during my diver training in the Royal Navy: when diving, the environment alone is hostile, even before you do anything operational. Being pessimistic about safety applies equally well to driving a car and riding a motorcycle as it does to diving and has stood me in good stead over the years: both below and above the waves!

Advanced drivers are taught to question what is going on and to anticipate what might happen; the following phrases should be familiar: ‘What can I see?’

‘What can’t I see?’

‘What might reasonably be expected to happen?’

‘What is the greatest hazard?’

‘What will I do if the hazard changes?’

‘Can I stop in the distance I can see to be clear, whilst staying on my own side of the road?’

By asking and answering these questions you are developing your ability to drive defensively. The actions taken should then be in accordance with the SYSTEM of car control and by applying the SYSTEM you will reduce the risk from any actual or potential hazard.

This style of driving that we have called Defensive Driving –or Advanced Driving if you like: it’s very hard to distinguish between the two- is based on the driver’s ability to Concentrate; Observe; Anticipate and Plan the drive at all stages.

When driving defensively, you should have control over your emotions and you should not easily be affected by other road users who may exhibit bad driving behaviour and practices.

A defensive driver is both observant and cautious and is quick to identify real and potential hazards and to take the appropriate action to reduce risk.

Take a look at these basic concepts of Defensive Driving: 1. Don't start the engine before checking that everyone is properly belted in and secure: especially children! Any load must be properly secured and pets should be under full control; 2. Expect the unexpected by asking the above ‘what if….?’ questions; 3. Slow down whenever the hazard warrants. E.g. when approaching a blind bend or summit; when approaching a narrow gap; when driving in the dark or fog; when the road conditions are poor etc.

4. Do not exceed the speed limit and do not drive at a speed that is inappropriate for the prevailing conditions, even if that ‘safe speed’ is less than the speed limit in force; 5. Develop your skills of Concentration; Observations; Anticipation and Planning. Plan the drive and drive the plan and if the hazard changes, the plan changes!

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6. Plan for escape routes and be respectful of other motorists; 7. Never drive if you are tired or under the influence of drink or drugs: even prescription drugs can cause drowsiness, so seek medical advice if unsure!

8. Read the road by scanning from far ground; to middle ground; to near ground; check mirrors; check speed; eyes back up the road to far ground….etc. Repeat this change in focus every 10 seconds or so. (The scan frequency depends on the hazard density; with many hazards present, increase the frequency of your scan!)

9. Assume that every other road user is going to make a mistake; in other words, be a pessimist when it comes to your safety! (E.g. plan for the worst case scenario; if it happens you are prepared, if it doesn’t happen, you were prepared!)

10. Follow the rules of the road. Give way, even if you have priority, if you consider the other road user presents a real danger if you stand on.

Advanced Drivers should be driving defensively at all times: that, after all, is what Advanced Driving is!

George Cairns

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Driving licence online: If you need to update your name or address, replace or apply for a driving licence online, visit: Driver licensing online

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Showing courtesy to others: My latest exposure to unacceptable behaviour in another driver happened a few days ago when, having dropped my pupil off at the end of her lesson, I was driving my ‘L-car’ along Eastern Way in Carlisle; which has a 30mph speed limit. Another driving school car, driven by a learner, joined the road ahead. I slowed to match their speed (about 22mph) and kept a safe distance back so as not to pressurise the learner.

However, the car behind closed right up on my bumper, so close in fact that I couldn’t see a scrap of road between our cars, the young female driver was gesticulating wildly, at times with both hands off the wheel: she was clearly annoyed at having to drive at this speed, apparently oblivious to the needs of the learner ahead of me dictating the speed: worse still, she may have even thought that my car was being driven by a learner.

All of my ADI colleagues could tell you of instances when “experienced” drivers have pulled right out in front of their training car, having assumed that it is being driven by a learner and will therefore be

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slow; when in fact the car is being driven by the ADI, who has to take immediate evasive action to compensate for the other drivers gross incompetence and poor judgement!

The “experienced” young female driver behind me was presumably of the opinion that by driving as close as possible to the learner car ahead would somehow transform the ‘learner’ and miraculously give them the confidence boost they so badly needed, allowing them to speed up and drive “properly”!

It saddens me to think that there are drivers on the road with so little empathy for the needs of other, more vulnerable, road users: these drivers have very poor memories and even poorer judgment and courtesy skills! Unfortunately, they are also the ones we will never see as IAM Associates; after all, what could we possibly teach such accomplished and skilled drivers?

George Cairns

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Know the Rules: Cars, goods vehicles not exceeding 1525kg unladen weight, motorcycles, invalid carriages and pedal cycles may be paked without lights on a road (or lay by) with a speed limit of 30mph or less if they are at least 10m away from a junction, close to the kerb and facing in the direction of traffic flow. However, there is an exception allowing these vehicles to park against the flow of traffic at night: do you know what it is?

Turn to page 8 to see if you are right!

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Servo-assisted brakes: Albert Dewandre (Liege, Belgium), an engineer and business owner, was the inventor of servo-brake or brake booster system “Dewandre” in 1927.

It is a brake boosting system that uses the reduced pressure caused by the suction in the intake manifold of an internal combustion engine to reduce the pressure on the brake pedal. The advantage of the Dewandre system is twofold: a softer push on the brake pedal, but also a notoriously shorter braking distance. His invention was manufactured and sold through the Robert Bosch Company.

A brake booster (i.e. other names being the “Servo” System; or the Vacuum Servo System) is used on virtually all vehicles with hydraulic brakes. Vacuum servos are not used on vehicles which use cables, rods (or other mechanical linkages), or pressurized air systems for their primary brake circuits.

The servo is fitted between the brake pedal and the master cylinder. On pressing the brake pedal, the piston within the brake master-cylinder is (indirectly) pushed in and this in turn controls the 6|Page

pressure that activates the brakes. With the engine running, the servo helps you overcome the natural resistance in the braking system, making it easier for you to press the brake.

You can test the function of the brake servo by pressing the brake pedal firmly and maintaining this pressure as you start the car; you should then feel the pedal being “sucked” in as the servo starts to operate. This is in effect is part of the pre-drive static brake check So how does it work?

Within the servo mechanism there is a large rubber diaphragm connected to the brake master-cylinder piston. Air streaming through the engine’s inlet manifold is used to create a vacuum on both sides of the diaphragm. The brake pedal also operates a set of air valves and when pressed, the valve linking the rear side of the diaphragm to the manifold is closed, (i.e. the side closest to the brake pedal), whilst opening a valve that lets in air from outside.

The air pressure on one side of the diaphragm is now greater than on the other side, forcing the diaphragm forward to push on the mastercylinder piston, thereby assisting the braking effort.

If the pedal is held and not pressed in further, no more air is admitted and the pressure on the brakes remains the same.

When the pedal is released, the valve linking the rear side of the diaphragm to the manifold is reopened allowing the vacuum to re-establish itself on either side of the diaphragm, which in turn allows the master cylinder piston to move back, releasing the brake pressure.

Source: Wikipedia

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Biker Corner: What to do if it goes wrong in a bend: We all get it wrong on occasion and if you are going a little too fast for the bend you have three options: Option #1: Keep the power on and lean the bike over harder.

Usually the best way to deal with the problem if you are riding fast as you usually have some grip to spare and the weight transfer to the rear allows the front tyre to carry on with its job of steering .

(Ed’s note: Going on gas loads the rear tyre, whilst taking some weight off the front allowing it to respond to steering).

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Option #2: Pick the bike upright and brake hard for a moment before leaning over again. Although this is often recommended, it is only of any use if you have some space to spare; however, if you DO have space to spare, you could probably make the corner anyway!

(Ed’s note: If braking is an option, it is normally best to use the front only and quickly but progressively increase the pressure to maximum; you’ll be surprised how effective the front brake is on modern motorcycles!)

Option #3: Apply the brakes gently whilst leant over. Modern sports bikes will carry some braking in the bend if you are careful, but remember the tyres are using most of their available grip to turn the bike! However, application of the brakes should be gentle and progressive; if you grab the front brake you are likely to lock up the front or stand the bike up: if you lock the front, you are going to crash. If you stand the bike up, you're going straight on! The back brake can be used gently, but don't stamp on it. The more load you have on the bike, the more back brake you can afford to use.

(Ed’s note 1: With a pillion on the bike, there is more weight over the back wheel making it less likely that the back will lift under heavy front braking; if the back wheel stays in contact with the road, there is less chance of it locking and the rear brake is then a viable option.

Ed’s note 2: A bike sits up when the front brake is applied in a bend. (Assume a right bend.) Basically, loading the front tyre under braking spreads the front tyre contact patch, creating more rolling resistance on the inner edge of the tyre (i.e. the edge nearest the centre of the bend) this makes the inner edge of the tyre slow down more than the outer edge; net result the front wheel turns in towards the centre of the bend. Effectively, we now have a positive steering effect as though the rider had pushed AWAY on the left bar. This “steering input” tries to turn the bike to the LEFT but in order to do so it must sit up first. When the bike does sit up, the uneven spread of the contact patch disappears so it stays upright and goes straight ahead: simple!)

If you use the front brake in the turn, realease it carefully and slowly to avoid unloading the suspension suddenly as this can unload the front tyre on the rebound, which can make the bike suddenly turn harder and tip into the corner. Be ready for this and minimise the effects by releasing the brakes slowly and use smooth steering inputs.

George Cairns 

When you can park against the direction of traffic flow at night. (HC Rule: 250) The exception is when parked in a recognised parking place or lay by!

Also remember that other vehicles (i.e. other than those listed on p6 above) and trailers and all vehicles with projecting loads, MUST NOT be left on a road at night without lights. 

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Always Give up Position for Safety: Advanced Riders plan their actions using the SYSTEM of bike control; which offers a systematic approach to hazard awareness and risk reduction.

Information Position Speed Gear Acceleration The second element: “Position” dictates the ideal position to be adopted on approach to the hazard; however, there are times when this “ideal” Position must be sacrificed for safety.

A good example of this is on the main road approach to a right bend, with a junction on the left. If the junction is clear, the “ideal” Position on approach to the right bend is as far to the nearside as possible: if it’s safe to do so. This position maximises the radius of the bend, which in turn minimises the un-settling Corner Force on the bike.

But if there’s a vehicle approaching the junction left, such as the HGV shown in the lower diagram to the left, this “ideal” Position is no longer safe and therefore no longer “ideal”!

From the lorry driver’s point of view, the bike approaching from the right on the nearside looks like it’s preparing to turn left into the junction: without signal.

If the lorry driver decides to emerge on the strength of this assessment, the rider is in a very precarious situation!

It must also be assumed that other road users are unaware of the SYSTEM and likely to misinterpret your intentions based on the position of the bike: you must therefore be pessimistic; ask the “what if?” question and expect the unexpected!

The SYSTEM is designed to reduce risk from riding hazards and although it appears the SYSTEM has failed in this case: it hasn’t!

The INFORMATION phase threads throughout the SYSTEM and as the rider approaches the right bend, INFORMATION is gathered, including the presence of the emerging HGV signalling right.

The “proactive” rider identifies the increased risk from the otherwise “ideal” Position to the nearside, when approaching the right bend; risk is then reduced by checking the mirrors; coming away from the nearside and signalling right to confirm the intention to follow the main road – 9|Page

despite the fact that it’s a bend and not a right turn- adopting an “appropriate speed” and then accelerating away from the hazard when it’s safe to do so: fully in accordance with the SYSTEM. The defensive rider therefore reduces speed on approach; looks for eye contact with the lorry driver and observes the wheels of the lorry for any sign of movement; the rider would also cover the front and back brakes when negotiating the bend; in this way, if the HGV pulls out the rider is instantly ready to react. It is well known that if a driver or rider is prepared for a situation, they react to it quicker and more effectively than they otherwise would.

George Cairns 

Motorcycle Safety: A New Zealand study called for increased rider conspicuity, claiming fluorescent clothing, white or light coloured helmets and daytime headlights may reduce motorcycle injuries and death.

The study found that wearing reflective or fluorescent clothing reduced the risk of a crash injury by 37%; a white helmet by 24% and riding with headlights on by 27%.

But even more important than wearing conspicuous safety gear is to develop a healthy attitude to hazard awareness and risk reduction! Riders need to be self-critical; constantly vigilant; conscientious in their application of the SYSTEM (i.e. Information / Position / Speed / Gear / Acceleration) of bike control and willing to undertake continuation training whenever the opportunity arises! 

Skidding: If your bike develops a full skid you are unlikely to have the time and space to correct it. You need full concentration and observation both to avoid skids and to be able to take immediate corrective action if a skid develops.

You can’t call yourself a biker until you come off....

The true meaning of skid marks....

Rear wheel skid: This occurs when the rear wheel loses its grip because of:     

Excessive speed; Excessive banking during cornering; Harsh acceleration; Excessive braking; Not matching engine speed to road speed when releasing the clutch.

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A rear wheel skid can cause the rear wheel to slide to either side. During cornering, the wheel will swing to the outside of the curve. The bike may turn broadside and go completely out of control; it may also fall to the inside of the curve if banked over.

Remove the cause of the skid by easing off the throttle or reducing braking effort and bring the bike upright. Steer in the direction of the skid. When stability is restored, go back on gas or brake but with greater sensitivity than before.

Front wheel skid: This occurs the front wheel loses its grip because of:    

Excessive speed for the circumstances (i.e. “inappropriate speed”); Excessive turn on the handlebars; Excessive banking during cornering; Excessive braking.

If you have the time and space, remove the cause of a front wheel skid. There is very little time to recognise, react to and correct a front wheel skid, so make every effort to avoid it in the first place.

If banked over and the front wheel suddenly regains its grip, the bike will be unbalanced, on the wrong course and in danger of falling to the outside of the curve.

Regain control by bringing the bike upright and reducing speed.

Source: Roadcraft 

Subs payment: The annual £12 CWCAM Membership fee was due on 1st April; so, many thanks to those that have paid on time. However, “….a Treasurer’s lot is not a happy one”; to misquote Gilbert and Sullivan. The problems I have to resolve are as follows: 

Contact those that have paid twice and send them a refund;

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Individually contact the 42 members who have not paid at all and ask them if they could do so, or at least let me know if they have decided not to renew their membership;

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Contact the non-members who have kindly paid, in order to repay them and suggest that they remember to cancel their Standing Order to the Group;

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Close down the books and get them to the Accountant for review;

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Prepare a Treasurer’s Report for the AGM (date and venue to be announced in the next Newsletter);

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Over the past year the Group has gone to electronic banking and I would like to encourage those Members who currently pay by cheque or cash, to consider paying through their bank or on line if they also do electronic banking. The Group Banking details, which are as follows.

   

Bank: Barclay’s Bank Sort Code: 20-18-47 Account name: CWCAM Account Number: 03596591

George Cairns 

CWCAM Committee: Group Officers

Members of Committee and Technical Advisor

Chairman

Neil Stanton National Bike Observer 07919 676739 neilstanton1@btinternet.com

Reverend Ken Wright 01946 833536 kenwright@talktalk.net

Vice Chairman

Glynis Peacock Senior Car Observer 01900 826005 glynispeacock@hotmail.co.uk

Nigel MacDonald Senior Bike Observer 07595 122765 nigel.macdonald4@btinternet.com

Secretary

Maureen Robinson National Car Observer 07740 809628 maureen_rob@hotmail.com

Chris Hardy Qualified Bike Observer Qualified Car Observer 07876 254080 crihod@gmail.com

Treasurer & Newsletter Editor

George Cairns National Car Observer National Bike Observer 07974 826 970 georgecairns@hotmail.com

Steve Topping Qualified Bike Observer 07802 870 282 stevetopps100@aol.com

Technical Advisor to the Committee: Alan Bragg IAM Examiner 07724 165092 alanb113@sky.com

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