Hyderabadi baatan august by HydbaatanMag

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12 Ramzaan Mein Kaun Bade? 20 A Desert that cannot be ordered 24 Cover Story: Fast, Pray, Love & Eat 40 The Revelation: Haleem 44 Humara Ramzaan Ghar se Door 48 The King Of Haleem 56 Photo Chronicles:The Holy Month of Ramzaan

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

A LETTER FROM the

E D I TO R The month of August- a time for recurring annual celebrations of our Independence from those smarmy Brits. A new era now dawns upon us with the formation of a certain state seeming more or less a likely event. We try and provide insights into what Hyderabad actually thinks of the new state of Telangana. Also, we cover the auspicious month of Ramadan and try to ring love,joy and happiness. And food. Lots of food. A full cover story of what Ramadan is all about along with what’s trending this festive month,featuring some great clicks of our Hyderabad in a festive mood covered with lights,decorations et al. From varied reviews of Haleem to Ramzan mei kon bade “Dahi bade Dahi bade”, we bring it all to you. And more. From the team of “Hyderabadi Baatan” we wish each and every reader around the world a very happy and prosperous “Eid Mubarak” We are always open for suggestions,feedback and for queries you can always mail into us at: hydbatanmag@gmail.com

Hyder Abadi Editor in Chief

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

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HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Ramzaan Mein Kaun BADE? As the adage goes - Dahi bade, Dahi bade. Season’s greetings Hyderabadis, Ramadaan the holiest month is upon us. On the 11th of July me, like the rest of Hyderabad, indulgenced in abstinence. For me like anyone else Ramadan is not just about abstinence, it is to experience the hunger felt by the less fortunate from dawn till dusk. This also brings us the glad tidings that await us at the end of every day when we break our fasts. At the end of the day everyone fosters a desire to eat the seasons most sought out foods. Hyderabadi Baatan extends our desire to prepare you for full course of Hyderabadi Ramadaan foods.

Dahi Bade This Ramadaan has also bought monsoon along with it. Fried foods and monsoon is like a marriage that will last till eternity. Dahi bade is one such dish. It is supposed to be “Vade”, plural for “Vada”. “Bade” is just how Hyderabadis pronounce it;it is the Hyderabadization(a term I just coined, because that’s what quality writers do-make up stupid stuff) of the term “Vade”. It is an Indian chaat delicacy prepared by soaking Vadas in thick yogurt. Although dahi vada holds a significant place in Indian cuisine and is eaten throughout India, it still finds the number one spot on the streets and Dastarkhwans (laid out ceremonial dining spread) of Hyderabad. These hot deep fried bad boys are soaked in water to bring the softness in them before being transferred to thick beaten yogurt.

Khajoor Fasting throughout the day leaves the body in a lethargic state with low blood sugar levels. Dates replenish blood sugar levels and reinstate your energy. Traditionally it is known as the food to be eaten by Prophet Muhammed(PBUH) when he broke his fast. Dates happen to be an excellent source of sugar, fiber, potassium, magnesium and carbohydrates which make it a slow digesting food.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Chote Samose This is a 4 pm snack which usually goes with some Irani chai but makes an exceptional appearance on the dining tables during Ramadan. Samosas are one of the oldest known “popular” appetizer snacks. It is a fried or baked pastry with a spicy filling consiting of one of or a combination of onions, potatoes, ground beef or chicken. During Ramadaan, these little ones are overwhelmingly popular with the people. Onion samosas a.k.a “chote pyaaz ke samose” are sold all over Hyderabadi streets; people throng to these stalls for some last minute Iftaar shopping. They are crunchy, savory onion delights that everyone looks forward to towards the end of their fasts.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Mirchiyaan Another Indian snack that has made it to the list of must haves is Mirchi Bhajji or Mirchi Bada i.e. Mirchiyaan for us Hyderabadis. It is a spicy, deep fried snack made of tamarind filled chili dipped in gram flour batter. Though its genesis lies in Jodhpur, Rajasthan, it is a favorite snack for most across south India. During Ramadaan, it is seen spicing up things at the Iftaar table.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Haleem The crown prince of Hyderabadi cuisine, rarely do I find myself reaching out for a second helping of anything else apart from Haleem. An exquisite dish that was introduced in the Hyderabadi state by the Arab diaspora during the rule of the sixth Nizam, Mahbub Ali Khan, it was at a later point made an integral part of Hyderabadi cuisine during the rule of the seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan. Ramadaan Haleem is now regarded as an international delicacy. It is a high calorie, nutritious dish which gives instant energy as it contains fast and slow digesting carbohydrates. It is an excellent source of protein and antioxidants.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

New Attractions Ghawa

Also spelled Qehwa, Kehwa or Kahwa, it is a traditional non milk based aromatic green tea made with cardamom pods, cinnamon bark, green tea leaves, dry ginger served with dates. Its has been seen gaining popularity amongst Hyderabadi locals during Ramadaan.

Mandi

A traditional dish of Hadramaut and many other Yemeni cities, also referred to as the “Arabian Biryani”. It is made with Basmati rice, meat and a mixture of aromatic spices. It is available at ‘Dine Hill’ and ‘4 Seasons’ throughout the year and is a new favorite amongst the middle eastern immigrants and locals alike.

Bakhlava

As exquisite as the name sounds, it is a rich, sweet phyllo layered pastry filled with caramelized crushed nuts and sweetened with honey or syrup. It’s currently available at the ‘4 Seasons’ pastry shop and ‘Ofen Confectioneries’ for the month of Ramadan. It’s also available at ‘Sarvi’ bakery throughout the year.

-Yamani Bin Zubair

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Dessert

that can’t be ordered Most people who have eaten Sheer Khorma have nostalgic, heart warming memories of this wonderful delicacy. Eid-Ul-Fitr, the rewarding festival after the month of fasting is painted with love and is spread through Sheer Khorma. Sheer Khorma is a delightful dessert that is made of roster fine vermicelli noodles called ‘Seviyan’ cooked in milk with fried nuts and garnished with strands of saffron, cardamom and nutmeg powder. Traditionally served after the Eid prayers, it is offered across all countries on the occasion of Eid. This Ramadaan Hyderabadi Baatan shares the recipie of the most beloved dessert of the season.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

INGREDIENTS Fine Seviyan/ Vermicelli noodles 3/4 cup Ghee 2 tbsp Pistachio/Pista 1 tbsp, halved Almonds/Badaam 1 tbsp, skinned and thinly sliced charoli nuts/Chironji nuts 1 tbsp, soaked in water for 15-30 minutes and skinned Dates/khajoor 5 dates halved and stoned Saffron strands/Zafraan 1/2 tsp Raisins/Kishmish 1 tbsp Melon seeds 1 tbsp skinned. Milk 5 1/2 cups Jaiphal/Nutmeg powder 1/4 tsp Green Cardamom /Elaichi powder 1/4 tsp Green Cardamom Pods/Elaichi 1, whole Sugar 4 to 5 tbsp

Method 1. Soak the dates and saffron in 1/2 cup warm milk and keep it aside. 2. Pour milk into a large pan/skillet. Add the seeds of the cardamom to the milk. Add sugar, nutmeg, and green cardamom powder and boil milk in the pan at high flame until itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reduced to one-fourth. 3. In a heavy bottomed pan add ghee/oil and heat it at medium flame. Add the almonds, raisins, pistachio, chironji and melon seeds and stir fry them until golden. Remove into a small cup and keep aside. Use the same oil/ghee to roast the seviyan(vermicelli noodles). Stir them until theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a dark golden. Pour the reduced milk into the seviyan and let it come to a boil once. Add the saffron and the dates soaking in milk. Cover and let it cook for 2-3 minutes. The seviyan might have become soft by now. Remove from heat and serve hot or cold.

-Yamani Bin Zubair

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Cover Story

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Ramadaan is one of the biggest festivals in the Muslim world. It is a vey important event in Hyderabad. It is the ninth month according to Islamic calendar in which the Holy Quran was revealed to the entire humanity as guidance. On the onset of the crescent moon, muslims all over the world refrain themselves from consuming food, drinking liquids and engaging in sexual relations from dawn till sunset. It is a time for being devoted towards the Almighty and being more affectionate to each other, helping the poor with alms and charity. Redirecting ones heart away from worldly pleasures and thinking about the less fortunate people, cleansing mind, body and soul from harmful impurities is the main aim of the holy month. Muslims not only fast from dawn till sunset but also engage in far more religious devotion and charity during the whole month. So how is it celebrated in our very own Hyderabad?

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Chand Dikh Gaya: The month starts with the sighting of the moon. Once the moon is sighted with naked eyes or telescope the All India Muslim committee announces the onset of Ramadaan aur apne Hyderabad mei poore masjidon mei Sairan bajte **AAAAAAAAAAAAAA** bolke. The first thing people do is recite the prayer for the sighting of the new moon. Then they go greet the elders of the house for the onset of the new month where the doors of hell are closed and God’s blessings are doubled in the month. Dostaan ek doosre ku callan maarte, ‘Bhai chand Mubarak’, ‘Chand Mubarak’ bolke relatives call each other and greet each other about. In the 90’s when internet was a luxury, every one sent each other paper cards from Archie’s wishing Ramzan Mubarak. The crazy kids these days... aaaa forget it.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Kal se Sehri Karna hai: Basically the “Ammi’s” of every household are more worried about the Sehri or Suhoor (the meal consumed early morning before dawn) for the household. She goes paranoid saying “Arrey ab sehri mei kya pakana ki samajh ich nai aara mereku, kya pakau kya khate ki inloga”. The little kids are enthralled thinking - “kal se subah mei uthna hai, sehri karna hai”. The elders of the house start praying and seek forgiveness from Almighty for their sins. The Teenagers are busy updating ‘facebook’ status “Ramadaan Kareem” or “Ramdaan Mubarak, remember the family in supplications”, regardless every age group is excited regarding the commencement of the new month.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

BHAAG SHAITAAN BHAG: Allah’s Apostle said, “When the month of Ramadaan starts, the gates of Heaven are opened and the gates of Hell are closed and the devils are chained.” [Bukhari]. People take this seriously. Ab sab kya karte Ramadaan ka Ehteraam karte - Arrey Ramadaan hai tum gaane sunre?? gunaah hota. People abstain themselves from watching TV, listening to songs, going to theaters etc. Mtv, Channel [V] are switched to Quran Tv, Peace Tv, Madani Channel (ab TV nai dekhe toh kaisa aadat hai naa TV chalane ki). These channels air religious programs throughout the day, increasing our knowledge and feeding our spirituality. Justin Bieber is replaced by Owais Raza Quadri and songs are replaced by Qawwali’s and Naat’s (haao bhai apne logo ku kuch na kuch karte rehna rehta). There is a very prominent rise in the sale of Qawwali cd’s from Saberi Brothers (especially among autowala’s, They play these cds on their custom music decks and zoom around the city).

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Zakaat(CHARITY):

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

IFTAAR Karna hai: After fasting for almost more than 14 hours apne Hyderabadis are all hot and bothered about Iftaari (meal for breaking the fast). A typical Hyderabadis Iftaar consists of Dahi Bade(Ramzaan mei kon bade??Dahi bade, dahi bade), Daal, Fruit Chaat, Chote Samosey, Mirchiyan, Aloo ke Bhajiye, Mash ki Daal ke Wade, Haleem aur bhoth kuch. Agar yeh sab nahi raha aap ke Dastarkhan pe toh samajh lo aap ki Iftaari utti acchi nai hui. Many people send Iftaari to their neighbours as a good deed. Usually chote bacchon ku leke jaake do bolte ammi in a tray (Kashti) covered with red cloth (Toreposh) and it is sent over to neighbors house. Iftaar parties are also done as a gathering for all dosts and khandan wala’s where aunties are more concerned about “bête shaadi kab karrain” or “bête job lagi kp nai” and girls are more concerned about “tu shopping kaha se kari?” mai Kashish pe se, Neerus pe se” etc.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Zakat (charity): Zakat is a practice of giving obligatory charity to the poor which is based on the wealth accumulated. Statistics show that Muslims give more charity around the world compared to other religions. The main aim of charity is to help the poor and eliminate inequality as it is a basic pillar of Islam-the poor and the rich both are equal in the eyes of the Almighty. It eases the hardships of the less fortunate and they are able to celebrate EID with the charity given by the rich. This way everyone gets to celebrate EID and no one is left out on this auspicious occasion.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

TARAWEEH: Special evening prayers are conducted during which long portions of the Qurâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;an are recited. These special prayers are known as Taraweeh. Apne Hyderabadis Isha ki namaaz ke baad Taraweeh ku jaate uske baad dosto ke saath haleem, ghawa, chai, paan khaletewe nazar aate.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Someone said “Ab ke teen time haleem khana hai”, and the others “Eid ku kya banao – Anarkali ya fishcut?”. As a city with so much to offer, Ramadaan offers so little time to do it within. Over the years, very little has bene understood regarding the true essence of Ramadaan. Everybody knows the majority of it is to do with fasting from Suhoor(dawn) to Iftaar(dusk). Ultimately we need to read between the lines, understand the nuances of Ramadaan and not restrict the meaning of Islamic fasting to the literal sense of simply locking our mouths from dawn to dusk. “Aaj Iftaar main kya hai?” is something we are more concerned with during our fasts. At the end of the day we are looking forward to breaking our fasts, but the true meaning of our fasting gets lost in translation. Question is what do we seek this Ramadaan? a)Weight Loss b) Exquisite Ramadaan foods c) New clothes for Eid d) all of the above I believe the above question would have different answers from different age groups. Till then I leave you with a thought to ponder over this and may this month bring prosperity and happiness to all of our readers around the world. EID MUBARAK !!!!

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

The Revelation:

HALEEM! -Yamani Bin Zubair

Emphatically the king of Ramadan foods, Haleem is a dish that I would best describe as tantalizingly delicious. During the auspicious month of Ramadaan, when you see a man gorging away on Haleem, where you see binging, I see love. Admittedly the love was a long time coming since Haleem reveals prominently only during Ramadaan every year to excite our taste buds. Those who miss out on the opportunity to eat it are tormented for the next eleven months with the images of mouth watering Haleem. Haleem is a slow cooked stew composed of wheat, lentil & meat garnished with caramelized onions and mint leaves. It is pounded thoroughly with large wooden sticks to stir up a thick paste of aromatic delicacy. Originally an Arabic dish, Haleem was introduced to Hyderabad during the Mughal period when the Arab diaspora whipped it up for the sixth Nizam, Mahbub Ali Khan. It was only later during the rule of the seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan that Haleem made it as an essential part of the Hyderabadi cuisine. Legend has it that an Arab chef Saif Nawaz Jung Bahadur, originating from Hadhramaut, Yemen, was in the Arab diaspora among to the seventh Nizamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s court. Today Haleem is prepared with added local flavors to produce a distinguished taste that is offered by various caterers across Hyderabad. It is also seen appetizing people on the dining tables celebrations, weddings and other occasions. Haleem is yhe undisputed winner over Biryani when during the month of Ramzaan.Nowhere do people eat it better than at this festive seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most sought out Haleem vendors.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Pista House: Established by a pure bred Hyderabadi with a passion for food with exquisite taste - Mr M.A Majeed is the man who is responsible for giving Pista House its cult like status and making it Hyderabad’s most sought out joint for Haleem. Pista House offers Haleem which is made out of 100% pure meat and ghee combined with their secret mix of aromatic spices which take the Haleem eating experience to a whole new level. Pista House is also the first hotel to ever patent a dish like Haleem and boasts of becoming the first ‘Authorized User’ of the registered “Geographical Indication status” for ‘Hyderabad Haleem’. Price: 110/- Per Plate Shah Ghouse Cafe: Second to none, people swear by Shah Ghouse and its Haleem. It gained popularity since the inception of its Haleem and when it was awarded the best Haleem in twin cities by Times of India. Located in Shah Ali Banda, Shah Ghouse has garnered quite a fan following for itself with the unique taste of its Haleem which promises to be made with 100% pure ghee and meat. If you happen to take the route to Mehdipatnam from Toli-chowki you’d see shah ghouse waiters serving Haleem on the road till midnight. Price: 100/- Per Plate Hyderabad House: Another entry in the list which promises to tingle your taste buds is Hyderabad house. Their authentic recipe sets them apart from the rest of the crowd. Their Haleem is made with pure ghee and 100% goat meat which is served with a Lukhmi in a combo offer. Price: 100/- Per Plate (combo offer served with lukhmi) 44

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Sarvi: The contest winner of “Best Haleem” in the year 2008 by Times of India, they still boast of their victory. And why not; they serve authentic ‘Irani Haleem’ which is made by an Iranian chef. The Irani Haleem sets itself apart from its counterparts since the spices used are not the same and it is made with mutton and meat alone. Price: 100/- Per Plate Triple 5: Another Irani Haleem joint that makes no compromises when it comes to taste. It is well famous with its customers for being the only Haleem joint to add the goats tongue to its Haleem, which sets it apart from its competitors. Its Haleem is prepared with 100% goat meat and wheat. Their special Haleem is served with a goat’s tongue, cream, glazed nuts, caramelized onions, topped with chicken 65. Price: 110/- Per Plate Paradise: Though it lies on the other end of Hussainsagar , it is in competition with best Haleems in Hyderabad. This Secunderabad entry is a tough competitor. Its long standing customers, who travel to the other end of the city to eat their Haleem, swear by its magnificient taste. Now it is now available at their Takeaway restaurant at Masab Tank. Price: 110/- Per Plate Rumaan: It hass been seven years since Rumaan has been catering Haleem;it is still popular with most of its customers despite being prepared with beef. Their beef Haleem is a favorite with beef lovers and is most sought after in its category. Price: 70/- Per Plate

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Humara RAMzAAN Ghar se Door Ayiye! Chalte hain Saudi, Dubai, Qatar ki taraf. Yahan ke log, aur inki khususiyaat. Yahan per maujood senior Hyderabadis jab aapas mein milte hain, ek dusre ke tarruf ke dauraan, apne apne ilaqe ki pehchan batana,phir apni apni properties batana “areh aap Samtha colony mein rehte? Wahan apna villa hai, kiraye pe diya.. filhal main Mughalpura mein hun, finish karke jaake Tolichowki mein shift hojana sochraun”. Phir dusra apni pehchaan aur sources batane mein lagjata. “Mughalpura? Apni baithak udharich hai..Charminar ke circle saab humare mamu ke khaas dost hona”. Ye guftuguu ek dusre se mailmilaap badhane mein kafi dilchasp sabit hoti. Ramzaan gulf countries mein ek aisa mahina hota hai jahan din raat jaisa aur raat din jaisi hojati hai. Gulf ki her masjid mein iftar ki sahulat, aur kayi signals pe iftiyari baati jaati hai.aur yahan iftaar ke maene khajur ke baad petbhar khana khane se hoti hai, kahin arabi biryani,kahin khabsa,mandi jaise chawal ke sath gosht wali dishes hoti hai.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

Magar hyderabadiyon ke liye iftaari, dahi bade, ubli hui chane ki daal,kuch meve, aur juices se hoti hai. Toh aksar Hyderabadi apne ghar hi apni iftaari ka intezaam karte hain. Aur Hyderabad ke Nizam ke taur per iftaari ke baad maghreb phir petbhar khana. Yahan ke log jab iftaari tayyar kar chuke hote hain toh apne janpehchan ke sabhi dosto ko dawat dete hain. Jo apne sath haleem, juice, ya kuch talvi hui cheezein apne sath le aate hain. Bhale hi ek dusre ko apni apni kamiyabi ke khisse kyun na suna chuke ho, maghreb ki namaz ke baad jab masjid se ghar wapas aate hain toh apne apne zaati masael ekdusre se share karte hain. Aur mashvere talab karte hain. (ye aadat ek dusre ki ana ko khatam karti hai) Poora mahina apni lagan aur mehnat se kaam karne ke baad yahan ke log apni tanqua ka intezaar isliye nahi karte kyunke inke akhrajat ka masla hota hai. Balke isliye kyunke inke biwi bache aur maa baap eid ki tayyariyon ke liye betaab rehte hain. Yahan per rehne walon ki khwahishaat kaafi hadh tak ek jaisi hoti hai -pehle kuch property banana -maa-baap

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

ko haj ya umra per bulana -biwi ko kuch mahine ya saal ke liye yahan laana. Magar zindagi ke masael per justujoo karne wala apni kuch hi khwahishon ko poori karpaata hai. Kisi ke wallet mein apne bache ka foto, Kisi ki kitaab mein apni biwi ke mohabbat bhare khat, Kisi ke phonecall per ammi se baat karte hue aansu, Kisi ke dost se naraazgi bhare sms, Kisi ki behen ki shaadi khushi aur mayusi ke wo shaadi ka ruqqa bhi nahi dekhsakta. Kisi ki pareshani ke wo apne baap ke ilaaj ke liye kharza nahi ikhatta karsakta. Kisi ki khamoshi ke wo apni biwi se naraaz hai Kisi ki khushi ke uski chutti manzoor hogayi. Gharwalon ko apne bache ki sehat se sirf itni tawaqqu hoti hai ke wo mota hojaye, tandurust hojaye. Magar haqeeqat toh itni hai ke wo shaqs apne mulk laut aata hai toh zindagi ke aaqri payedaan per ya kisi beemari ka shikaar hoker. -Saad Khan

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

THE

King of

HaleeM: PISTA HOUSE

-Anish Subramanian

Wise elders keep telling me the best gauge of an eatery is the length of the queue of people waiting outside to unabashedly bathe themselves with their food. I don’t know if said elders were around to see the hoards of customers gutting it out here at Pista House, Shah Ali Banda. If they would have witnessed it, I’m guessing they’d let out a wry, all knowing, smug smile. Staying on top of a very, very competitive marketplace for the best part of two decades, Pista House is in Haleem hyper drive mode, with the Ramzan festivities in full swing. The official figure for revenue generated by Haleem sales in Hyderabad during Ramadaan 2012 is Rs.120 crore (approx.). Couple that with a spanking new Geographical Indication status acquired, the Hyderabadi Haleem is more or less Hyderabad’s flagship dish. And ladies and gentlemen, here at Pista House, the Haleem is nothing short of magnificent. The meat and wheat dough are as fresh as they come. The spices are brought in from different parts of the globe (we asked for a recipe; they didn’t tell us-what a shocker. They did tell us a secret ingredient-love). The Haleem itself is extraordinarily popular-ordered by movie stars, politicians, VIPs, the whole lot. “So long as you have food in your mouth, you have solved all questions for the time being”-words of one of the most existential, surreal and influential writers ever; somebody who’s name is now synonymous with any literary work even remotely breaching themes his body of work did. I have no idea what he meant. Unless he meant eat delicious Haleem as much as you can (Haleem from Pista House *wink *wink). Then he and I are in total agreement.

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

PHOTO CHRONICLES

THE HOLY MONTH OF

RAMADAAN

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

-Aditya Kohli

HyderabadiBAATAN | August 2013

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