Creative Edge
From sushi to sustainability, Hualālai’s innovators are carving a new path.
Hualälai Realty
AT HUALĀLAI REALTY,
it is our privilege to help you nd the perfect Hualālai home. As Hualālai Resort’s exclusive on-site real estate o ce, we are the experts in this luxury niche market, having closed more than $3 BILLION since 1996.
We focus 100% of our e orts on sales at Hualālai. We look forward to sharing our insights and unique listings with you, and providing incomparable service for all of your real estate needs at the world’s premier residential resort.
Vivian Tobias
April Mistersaro
A curved infinity pool with wet deck takes center stage in the backyard of this stunning Hualālai property.
ALOHA
E komo mai, welcome: a letter of greetings and good tidings to our Hualālai ‘ohana of residential Members and Resort guests.
6 HUALĀLAI
MOMENTS
Indelible images of Hualālai at sunrise and sunset, from a golf course in the gloaming to the wedding tree of many an “I do.”
THE FRONT NINE
A quick swing through the latest news, views, and happenings at Hualālai.
22 TABLE FOR 12
With the grand reopening of ‘Ulu restaurant comes the new second-floor space Noio—which includes a dozen of the most sought-after omakase seats. BY SHEILA GIBSON STOODLEY
30 LOCAL LEGENDS
The impact of these small farms on Hualālai and the community at-large is immeasurable. BY
LAURA FENTON
◗
PHOTOGRAPHY
BY
40 THE ISLANDS ILLUMINATED
ANNA PACHECO
Hawaiians’ age-old way of life is a beacon to today’s conservation leaders working toward a sustainable future in the archipelago. BY KEALIʻI THOENE
This gorgeous home, with its expansive views, exclusive location, and high-end finishes, is a wonderful example of Hualālai’s residences. BY FAN WINSTON ◗ PHOTOGRAPHY BY
The spellbinding vistas from this estate’s covered lānai are real, despite how otherworldly they might seem.
48 RARE BEAUTY
ETHAN TWEEDIE 56 ROOM WITH A VIEW
ON THE COVER
Nuri Piccio, head sushi chef at Noio
Photography by Anna Pacheco
Rob Kildow
Director of Residential Sales, Principal Broker
Charlie Parker
Regional Vice President, General Manager Four Seasons Resort Hualālai
Violet Terawaki Director of Marketing
Allison Tan Marketing Coordinator
HUALĀLAI MAGAZINE
Lori Bryan Editor
Fan Winston Senior Editor
Mary Franz Art Director
Nikki Prange Copy Editor
Contributing Writers
Laura Fenton
Sheila Gibson Stoodley
Margaret Kearns Keali‘i Thoene
PUBLISHED BY
Bruce Wallin bruce.wallin@candrpr.com candrpr.com
Hualālai 72-100 Ka‘ūpūlehu Drive
Kailua-Kona, HI 96740
808.325.8500 hualalairealty.com
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES
ALOHA KĀKOU,
HAPPY HOLIDAYS and welcome to our winter issue of Hualālai magazine. We’re fi lled with gratitude for the incredible community we share here at Hualālai Resort and Four Seasons Resort Hualālai. This time of year, we’re reminded of the strength of our ‘ohana, and it’s a joy to reflect on what we’ve achieved and to share a few of the inspiring journeys that lie ahead.
The heart of Hualālai is, of course, its people and culture—dynamic forces that bring innovation to every corner of the Resort. In this issue, we invite you to explore some of our newest and most exciting developments, starting with the reimagined ‘Ulu restaurant and its new counterpart, the sushi lounge and omakase-focused dining experience Noio. Our chefs continue to push the boundaries of fl avor and sustainability, partnering closely with local growers like Hirabara Farms and Adaptations Inc., both of which are also highlighted in these pages. Sourcing fresh produce from island farms, we honor Hawai‘i’s incredible bounty and create dishes that reflect our commitment to culinary excellence and environmental responsibility.
We also feature the Ahupua‘a Accelerator Initiative, a Hawai‘i Conservation Alliance program rooted in sustainability, dedicated to preserving and protecting Hawai‘i’s land and waters. This initiative aligns with the wisdom of the traditional Hawaiian land management system, and we’re proud to support such impactful work.
Our readers’ favorite section, the Front Nine, is packed with goodies this season. From fun outings for both golf enthusiasts and non-golfers at the Hualālai Golf Hale to fresh experiences at the newly renovated Hualālai Salon, the Front Nine has it covered. Discover beautiful jogging paths on property, specialty cocktails on our menus, and a Charles Bartlett art collection on display in ‘Ulu restaurant that’s well worth savoring. Also, meet Randy Nakagawa, our sommelier, who brings a wealth of knowledge and passion to every glass served, and check in on the esteemed Hualālai ‘Ohana Foundation, whose programs continue to give back to our community, embodying the spirit of generosity that defi nes our Resort.
Last, don’t miss this issue’s featured home: Our look at this stunning residential retreat shines a light on the many thoughtfully designed homes within our Resort.
As we close another year, we remain dedicated to providing an unparalleled experience that celebrates our island, community, and shared values. Thank you for being part of our Hualālai ‘ohana. We look forward to seeing you around the Resort and wish you and your family a warm and joyous holiday season.
With aloha,
Charlie Parker
Regional Vice President, General Manager, Four Seasons Resort Hualālai
Rob Kildow Director of Residential Sales, Principal Broker, Hualālai Realty
MASTER STROKES
A painterly scene on the Keʻolu driving range at sunrise, with Hualālai Mountain and Maunakea in view.
A PERFECT SETTING
The heliotrope tree (kīpūkai) near Hualālai’s 17th hole, as the sun—just before its “green flash”—sinks into the horizon.
ALL AGLOW
A golden-hour vista over Waiakauhi Pond to the “wedding tree” where many couples exchange vows.
The gastronomy experience continues to emphasize Big Island ingredients –75 percent of all of the kitchenʼs ingredients are sourced from the island, tapping more than 160 local farms - ensuring the freshest and most sustainable options. The menu celebrates a variety of preparations such as oven roasting, flame grilling and wok firing, while integrating Hawaiian flavors with pan-Asian techniques.
the front nine
A QUICK SWING THROUGH THE LATEST NEWS, VIEWS, AND HAPPENINGS AT HUALĀLAI
QUITE A STIR
Mixologists at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai’s dining venues are making a serious impression with their latest tantalizing concoctions. Guests’ current favorites, according to the hotel’s director of food and beverage, Michael Hofstedt, include the Kona Coast, at Miller & Lux Hualālai; Pause for Sunset, at Beach Tree Bar and Lounge; and Poni Yuzu Tonic (pictured), at ʻUlu restaurant. The Kona Coast combines Kuleana Huihui rum, Cardamaro, Licor 43, Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur, Velvet Falernum, and lime juice, for a taste profile that incorporates sweet, bitter, umami, and sour, says Hofstedt. Pause for Sunset—an homage to Beach Tree’s spectacular views at sundown—is a layered drink that starts with violetcolored Empress gin, followed by fresh-pressed watermelon juice, lilikoʻi lemonade, and a lemon crown. “It’s beautiful, refreshing, and delicious,” he says. ʻUlu’s Poni Yuzu Tonic, he adds, also pays tribute to the Kona Coast’s renowned sunsets, with the same violethued gin. 808.325.8000
A Big Hit 2
There’s nothing but fun to be had in the Hualālai Golf Hale’s Topgolf Swing Suite—one of the Hale’s three indoor hitting bays that attract everyone from serious golfers to keiki (kids) and non-golfers of all ages. “This entertaining suite is especially big with families, featuring a relaxed lounge atmosphere with music, big-screen TVs, and games sure to please everyone,” says Jake Belveal, director of golf instruction. Also available to private and corporate groups, the suite rents on an hourly basis, with dining options ranging from snacks and beverages from the Hale’s pantry and pizza from the Resort’s Residents’ Beach House to lunch and dinner items ordered in advance from Four Seasons’ in-room dining menu. Guests can eat, drink, and take full advantage of the simulator bay, playing on some of the world’s best driving ranges. Non-golfers, fear not: The virtual games also include football, soccer, baseball, and Zombie Dodgeball. 808.325.8000
GRASSROOTS EFFORT 3
Led by Erin Lee, Hualālai’s director of landscaping, the Resort’s landscape team is in the midst of a project that includes converting 20.8 acres of Bermuda grass lining the Resort’s roadways to seashore paspalum. “The existing grass was literally dying of saltwater poisoning from the brackish water used for irrigation from our wells up mauka (toward the mountains),” says Lee. “Not only is the seashore paspalum a beautiful grass, providing a carpet-like appearance, but it’s also salt tolerant and durable.” The replanting of the Resort’s common areas is being steered by the Hualālai Community Association, after the conversion by Hualālai’s golf maintenance team of both the Ke‘olu and Hualālai golf courses, which are now finished. The rest of the work will be done in 2025 and 2026. “Once completed, the appearance of the grass lining our streets that are adjacent to golf courses will be absolutely seamless,” Lee says. It’s a huge undertaking and one that Lee says is being executed flawlessly by her talented staff: “I’m so grateful for each and every one of them!”
RAISE A GLASS 4
Miller & Lux Hualālai recently welcomed Randy Nakagawa, who came aboard as the sole sommelier among the staff of the Resort’s fine-dining restaurants. The San Francisco transplant says he’ll add about 100 wines to the 143 labels the establishments now offer and create a more diversified list. “Most of the current wines—some of which were inherited from the Hualālai Grille’s remaining inventory when Miller & Lux opened at that location in December 2023—are from California vineyards,” Nakagawa explains. He aims to add more European wines that, he says, “just go so well with our cuisine.” He foresees not only steakhouse-worthy reds from the likes of Bordeaux and Tuscany but also notable white wines (Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Roulot are among his favorites). Also in store: special quarterly wine dinners at Miller & Lux, hosted by Nakagawa himself. 808.325.8000
Show of Support 5
The inaugural Hualālai’s Got Talent event recently raised more than $300,000 for the Hualālai ‘Ohana Foundation, a nonprofit organization that supports the Resort’s employees and their families. Held this past summer, the new program, which included a family-friendly paddle raise and a talent show featuring staff performances, was “created to promote community engagement,” says Nico Leilani Verissimo, executive director of the Hualālai ‘Ohana Foundation. The donations from the event’s 190 Member audience will go toward the provision of fi nancial awards for Resort staff and their families’ educational and medical needs. Since its founding by Hualālai Members in 2002, the ‘Ohana Foundation has provided such assistance. “The foundation and its contributing partners raised $3.2 million in 2023 and look forward to continuing to connect meaningful giving opportunities with grateful recipients,” adds Verissimo. “In this period of growth for the foundation, the summer event is just one example of the new outreach programs to come.” 808.325.8177
GOODS LOCATION
Seaside Beach Boutique is making its activewear and spa apparel more accessible. The Hualālai store’s offerings—popular men’s and women’s clothing lines, including Lululemon, Vuori, Alo, and Beyond Yoga—previously were situated in a small, back-of-the-shop location, according to Susan Welch, director of retail. “They now have a new home in the spacious spa reception area [pictured] that’s more frequently visited by customers looking for these specific products,” Welch says. “The move also frees up more space in Seaside Beach for designer lines of men’s and women’s everyday resort wear and accessories. The boutique will continue to be the place to find all your swim and beach needs—cover-ups, sun hats, beach bags, and casual athleisure wear.” 808.325.8549
Fine Art at Four Seasons 7
Gracing the walls of Four Seasons Resort Hualālai’s ‘Ulu restaurant are three Charles W. Bartlett woodblock prints to be savored: Surf Rider (above; depicting Duke Kahanamoku riding a wave), Surf Riders (Kahanamoku and friends surfing), and Hawaiian Fisherman (right). The Resort’s long-time curator, Murti Vinayaga, says that Kahanamoku, the beloved Hawaiian swimmer, was good friends with Bartlett, the 20th-century English painter and printmaker who made his home in Hawai‘i. The Bartlett trio is among 130 artworks that Vinayaga has curated for the Resort since 1997. “This single suite of woodblock prints, created in Japan in 1919 from Bartlett’s watercolor paintings, is quite significant,” he says, “as the original blocks were destroyed by fi re during Tokyo’s 1923 earthquake.” 808.325.8000
Mood Board: Huala-lai Spa lmprovements
8
CHANGE OF SCENERY
Just in time for the festive season, Hualālai Salon is getting a makeover. Hualālai has teamed up with the San Francisco–based interior design group Bamo to create a space that’s more open, airy, and contemporary. “This is the first major renovation the salon has undergone; a facelift
was needed,” says Jay Uyeda, Hualālai’s vice president of development. “It will be a top-tobottom transformation, including enhanced overhead and undercounter lighting, new wood-like ceramic flooring, neutral-colored furnishings and walls, and new mirrors.”
Additionally, the space has been slightly expanded, he says, to accommodate two more hair and makeup stations, two new manicure stations, a retail display counter, and a private area for the ultra-comfortable J&A Lenox LX pedicure spa. 808.325.8440
Great Strides 9
Get your daily dose of cardio on Hualālai Resort’s scenic jogging paths, mapped by the team at the Hualālai Sports Club and Hualālai Spa. Each of the three paths is clearly marked with signage, begins and ends in the parking lot fronting the club, and affords inspiring views of pristine shoreline, tropical flora, and dramatic lavascapes. “The jogging paths intersect with one or more streets and golf cart paths throughout the Resort, so we suggest use during daylight hours only,” says Eric Kittay, director of the club and spa. The paths include the 2.4-mile Makala Lua, the 3.4-mile Makala Kolu, and the 4.8-mile Makala Lima, all of which follow a loop, traveling from makai (toward the ocean) to mauka (toward the mountains) and back. A map is available from the concierge in the lobby at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai. 808.325.8000
SECTION BY MARGARET KEARNS
FACES OF HUALĀLAI
Hawaiʻi is rich in unique traditions that have been handed down for generations. Here, two exceptional employees of Four Seasons Resort Hualālai talk about how following Hawaiian traditions has shaped their work and their lives.
> Kaleo Barton has been with Four Seasons Resort Hualālai for almost a dozen years, having worked his way up from his initial job of houseman. As housekeeping manager for Hualālai Villas and Homes, he and his team of 12 are responsible for the upkeep of 68 residences.
Barton double-majored in hospitality management and Hawaiian studies at Brigham Young University–Hawaiʻi in Lāʻie on the island of Oʻahu, a satellite campus of the Utah institution; and, as a student in 2012, he spent six months aboard Iosepa, a 57-foot double-hulled canoe commissioned in 2001 and completed over the course of eight months. While most vessels of this type rely on fiberglass, Iosepa was built from Fijian dakua wood, which makes it markedly heavier. It weighs nine tons dry and 13 tons when fully crewed and provisioned. While Barton was aboard, it sailed within the Hawaiian Islands and docked where its crew could perform community service projects, such as beach cleanup.
Barton had a dual role on Iosepa, serving as its quartermaster and cook. The former job didn’t just task him with securing and inventorying the goods needed for the journey; he also had to distribute the weight of everything evenly across the vessel to keep it in balance, including himself and the 11 other members of the crew. “It was a little bit of a sensitive subject at times,” he says with a laugh.
Cooking for the crew posed its own challenges, as he often had to work while Iosepa was sailing. “Sometimes, I didn’t have to stir,” he jokes. He can clearly remember the best meal he prepared on board: fresh-caught ahi fried with garlic and butter.
Barton still dreams of his voyage on Iosepa, and he hopes to sail it again someday. “One thing I learned from the experience was navigating by the stars. We had to learn all the stars, all the constellations, and their Hawaiian names are different from the Greek. We had to learn where they’d be in the sky in that time of the year, and we had to learn the stories behind them, the Hawaiian legends,” he says, adding that he still does star “tours” for family and friends. “I want people to know the stars are beautiful, but they’re also tools that can connect us to the past and where we want to go.”
—SHEILA GIBSON STOODLEY
> Few have mastered the art of hula like Michelle Kaulumahiehie Amaral has. For more than five decades, Amaral—who is mea hoʻokipa, or hospitality ambassador, at the Kaʻūpūlehu Cultural Center—grew up with the traditional Hawaiian dance, joining in the fun at family celebrations and taking hula classes as a girl. When she was 18, her hula instructor gave Amaral her first paying gig in a dinner show at a venue on the Kona Coast. “My knees were knocking, but my teacher, who was so wonderful, took me by the hand and said, ‘We’re going to do this,’” Amaral recalls. That show marked the start of a three-year performance contract. Amaral stresses that she had many mentors in hula, but that teacher—Sally Kalala Alohikea Lyons (known as Aunty Sally), a hula legend in her own right—saw something in her that she herself did not. When the contract ended, Lyons told Amaral that her life would be hula: “[She said] it would take me places around the world, and I would be an ambassador of hula.” Amaral remembers being skeptical of Lyons’s declaration, but notes, “It was one of the greatest blessings of my life. Everything she said became true.”
Amaral rose to become a hula soloist—one who is entrusted to dance alone—and has retained that distinction for 40 years. She is also one of only two professional hula soloists with multi-decade tenures at resorts in Hawaiʻi. In addition, she became a Kuma Hula (a master teacher in hula), an honor bestowed upon her when the Kuma Hula she learned from deemed her ready to share the art with others.
In her role as mea hoʻokipa at the Kaʻūpūlehu Cultural Center, she leads hour-long classes in hula, taking care to meet the guests where they are before opening their eyes to the art form’s subtleties and complexities. “Some see it as a dance. I make sure to take them through the history of hula,” Amaral says. “It’s very important for them to understand the seriousness of hula. Yes, it’s entertainment, but it’s history, and part of a hula dancer’s responsibility is to tell a story as best they can.” —S.G.S.
Kaleo Barton
Kaulumahiehie Amaral
mea hoʻokipa, Kaʻūpūlehu Cultural Center
housekeeping manager, Hualālai Villas and Homes
Highlights of the new Noio sushi lounge and omakase bar helmed by chef Nuri Piccio (opposite) include (from top) tsukidashi oysters and ikura (salmon roe); mackerel; hairy crab; and sea bream.
TABLE FOR
When the beloved ‘Ulu restaurant reopens, a new second-floor omakase bar will offer some of the most sought-after seats.
BY SHEILA GIBSON STOODLEY
“This is the first time the property has ever had a dedicated omakase sushi bar. If you are one of the , two to three chefs will focus just on you.”
—EXECUTIVE CHEF RICHARD POLHEMUS
ushi has been on restaurant menus at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai since the property opened in 1996, but late this year, the ever-popular Japanese cuisine will claim its very own space. In December, ‘Ulu restaurant—a long-standing favorite at the Resort—will reintroduce itself following renovations that commenced in July 2024, returning with a new sibling: Noio, a venue located on the second floor, will be wholly devoted to sushi. In addition to 65 seats with magnificent views of the sea and surf, Noio will have a 12-seat omakase bar that will host just two seatings per night.
Noio (pronounced “noo-yoo”) and its omakase bar—created partly in response to ‘Ulu patrons’ appetite for sushi—are destined to be a hot ticket. Four Seasons’ executive chef Richard Polhemus observed that on any given night before ‘Ulu closed for renovations, as much as half of its sales would come from its sushi menu.
The omakase bar will be the heart of Noio, and in a roundabout way, it inspired the restaurant’s name. Omakase is a Japanese word that translates as “I leave the details up to you,” and describes a multicourse dinner in which the guests entrust themselves to the chef, eating what the chef chooses to present rather than making selections from a codified menu. Noio is the Hawaiian name for a seabird that is also known as the black noddy. Hawaiian navigators would search the skies for noio, which would help them find land. Just as the noio guided Hawaiians to new and thrilling shores, the omakase chefs at Noio will guide guests through new and thrilling culinary experiences.
“This is the first time the property has ever had a dedicated omakase sushi bar,” says Polhemus. “If you are one of the 12, two to three chefs will focus just on you.”
The one-two punch delivered by the masterful chefs and the spectacular setting will set Noio apart, both within the Resort and among the sushi offerings in Hawai‘i in general.
“We have uniqueness; we’re one of three total on the island [offering omakase sushi], and we are the only one on the Kona Coast,” says Michael Hofstedt, director of food and beverage.
“There isn’t another restaurant on a second story so close to the ocean, with unobstructed panoramic views of the ocean.”
Chef Nuri Piccio has been part of Four Seasons Resort Hualālai since 2017. Having led the sushi program at ‘Ulu, he will head it at Noio as well, anchoring its omakase bar. He entered the restaurant world as a dishwasher at the age of 14, not long after he and his family emigrated from the Philippines to New Jersey. He came to Hawai‘i at 19, after
Richard Polhemus
Hualālai prawn with Kona mango, Thai basil, and chili relish.
BEST IN CLASS
Learn firsthand with top chefs from ‘Ulu and Noio.
Before it was made into the new omakase space called Noio, ‘Ulu restaurant’s second floor was considered a possible site for cooking classes. While culinary tutoring isn’t provided there, the restaurants’ star chefs can be hired for private lessons.
Executive chef Richard Polhemus is available for afternoon sessions in which he will teach you, step by step, how to work with the freshest Hawaiian products to create an irresistible meal.
Chef Nuri Piccio, who led the sushi program at ‘Ulu and will lead the sushi program and the omakase presentations at Noio, can be booked year-round, every day except Saturday, for tutelage in prepping and slicing fish, cooking and seasoning rice, and assembling the whole into a delectable piece of sushi. —S.G.S.
From slicing kanpachi (above) to prepping mackerel sushi with osetra and kelp (right), Piccio and his team of chefs are masters of their culinary art. Opposite: Chris Damskey, ‘Ulu’s chef de cuisine.
his mother married his stepfather, who was a Maui local. “I have always been a sushi person,” says Piccio. “I grew up in Japanese kitchens.”
His mentor, Chris Damskey, works at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai (when ‘Ulu reopens, Damskey will be its chef de cuisine). In 2017, Damskey invited Piccio over to have a look around. “I was told they were looking to improve the sushi experience for the guests,” recalls Piccio. “I flew here, stayed here a couple of nights, and fell in love with the property.”
Post-renovation ‘Ulu will cede sushi, in Piccio’s capable hands, to Noio, but, lest we forget, it was at ‘Ulu that Piccio proved that omakase sushi had an eager audience. In 2018 and 2019, the restaurant offered the service on request, but demand was so emphatic that Piccio, who performed the bulk of the work during these dinners, had to limit them to two eight-person seatings on Saturdays. Even then, omakase at ‘Ulu was booked six months into the future.
To make things easier on himself, Piccio came up with what he dubbed the “cycling” method, in which he trained every member of his team to assist with any given course in an omakase presentation, from the “snacks” that inaugurate the meal to the desserts that end it.
The seven or so individuals who will work alongside Piccio at Noio’s omakase bar have quite a long history at the Resort. Piccio began building the team in 2017, and two of the people he hired that year are still with him. “I call them
my family,” he says of his colleagues. “I trained them as I was trained. We have a really tight bond.”
In late October, Piccio was in the process of hiring two more chefs: “I look for chefs with open minds, who are able to think out of the box. Closed minds become a hindrance when you’re tied to tradition.” He adds, “We want to make it fun, not an uptight dining experience. It’s Hawai‘i, we have a view of the ocean. It should be relaxing.”
A Noio omakase menu will include five to six courses, with “each course [consisting] of two or three items or more, depending on what’s available from Japan or locally,” explains Piccio. A diner can expect nearly two dozen morsels in all. The chef’s spin on omakase will include tsukidashi, small sashimi bites, a soup or savory custard course, a grilled course (which can include offerings such as A5 Wagyu beef seared over Japanese charcoal), and more sushi—“different types of fish, all nigiri style, prepared differently.” The last course will present desserts, “tiny bites of sweets” such as a single macadamia nut coated in chocolate and matcha.
The hardest part of this endeavor, it seems, is counting the days until the return of ‘Ulu and the arrival of Noio. Polhemus says, “I can’t wait to see what Piccio does upstairs.” And Piccio, despite knowing firsthand what’s in store, matches his colleague’s enthusiasm for the grand opening. “Everybody is excited for sushi to have its own restaurant, its own profile, its own home on the property. I am excited to provide that for my team, and I am excited for them to come to work at Noio and be proud of it. My team is very talented. I can say that for sure.”
Left: Snapper otoro kanpachi. Below, left to right: Snapper nigiri with bottarga; otoro nigiri with uni; and kanpachi with mentaiko.
ANNA PACHECO
“Everybody is excited for sushi to have its own restaurant, its own profile, its own home on the property.”
—CHEF NURI PICCIO
The growers at Hirabara Farms, in Waimea, specialize in lettuces.
Below, from left: Hirabara’s Ray Echavez, Jason Higaki, Freddie Castillo, and Betty Richard.
Local Legends
These farms may be small , but their impact on Hualālai and the community at-large is immeasurable.
BY LAURA FENTON / PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNA PACHECO
arming in Hawai‘i is different from farming just about anywhere else. “We’re lucky because we don’t have the typical mainland seasons; we can pretty much grow everything year-round,” says Ray Echavez, the manager of Hirabara Farms, a nearly three-and-a-half-acre farm in Waimea that specializes in lettuces. There are, of course, challenges that are unique to Hawai‘i, too, including burnout from the year-round growing season, heavy rains that can pummel crops, and no frost to kill off pests.
There’s also the matter of land. “The majority of farms in Hawai‘i operate on parcels of less than 10 acres each,” says Maureen Datta, co-owner of Adaptations Inc., a seven-acre farm in Honaunau that grows tropical fruits and microgreens. “But rather than seeing this as a disadvantage, we see this as a superpower,” she adds. “Most [farmers we work with] live on their land near their crops,
At Hirabara Farms, Eldrid Mandac preps the soil for planting, while (opposite) Wilfredo Pagay and Ernesto Aleste harvest by hand, and Betty Richard washes mixed greens for packing.
Adaptations—a sevenacre farm in Honaunau that is co-owned by Tane Datta (below)—grows tropical fruits and microgreens.
which attunes them to the variations in weather conditions and allows for rapid response and fine-tuning.”
And, although Hawai‘i, like many places, has seen a decline in local agriculture due to urban development, Hirabara and Adaptations are two pioneering farms that aren’t just surviving in today’s challenging environment, they’re thriving—and laying the groundwork for farming in the islands well into the future.
◗ When Tane Datta, Maureen’s husband, came to Hawai‘i to farm in 1979, the state was moving away from plantation crops like pineapple and cane. Tane saw small, sustainable family farms as the alternative. At the same time, the USDA was developing its organic standards, but tropical agriculture wasn’t included, so Tane came up with his own tropical organic growing guide, which was later incorporated into the organic standards. It’s an example of the many ways the Dattas have led the way and supported other small farmers: case in point, Adaptations also runs a regional distribution network of 230 small farms.
Like Tane, Kurt Hirabara, the original owner of Hirabara Farms, was a pioneer in sustainable farming in Hawai‘i. Hirabara, who passed away in 2017, started farming decades ago in the Big Island suburb of Glenwood, with a focus on soil health and self-su ciency.
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Below: Adaptations’ Datta tends to edible flowers. In addition to farming, his outfit runs a distribution network that connects small farmers with restaurants and other customers.
He wanted to farm without having to import fertilizers. “Kurt was the smartest guy. People were always amazed by how he figured out how to produce a large amount of product off of a small amount of land,” says Echavez. “A big farm can let the ground [lie] fallow, but we don’t have the luxury of doing that, so it’s essential to keep the soil healthy.”
Hirabara and his wife, Pam, moved the farm to its current location in Waimea in 1998, and around that time, in the ’90s, local chefs were developing what they called Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine—a meld of multicultural influences and local ingredients—to highlight the islands as a culinary destination. The Dattas and the Hirabaras were among the farmers to provide specialty produce to this nascent local food movement.
◗ Since its opening in 1996, Four Seasons Resort Hualālai has also played a large role in this vital farm-to-table network, purchasing produce from local farms, including Hirabara, Adaptations, and the many small farms in Adaptations’ distribution network. “We always try to support our local farmers and
our community,” says Hualālai’s executive sous-chef, James Ebreo. “When people travel, they want to eat local food, try local beer, and taste local produce.”
Patronage from Hualālai and other resorts helps keep farms in business, but it wouldn’t be possible without food hubs like the one the Dattas operate. “A lot of small farmers don’t like dealing with hotels directly,” says Ebreo. Adaptations has streamlined the process, making it easier for those on the supply side and the demand side. The farms specify what is available, then Adaptations shares that information with 95 wholesale customers. Chefs place their orders, and Adaptations tells the suppliers what to harvest. Finally, Adaptations delivers the produce to the restaurants and resorts. “By working with many small growers and backyard gardeners, we capture the abundance that might otherwise be food waste and convert it to income for these food producers,” says Maureen.
Beyond employing local farmhands, these farms support their communities in important ways. Adaptations, for example, is focused on stewarding the land and has completed soil conservation projects
License #CT-23947
and replaced invasive trees with indigenous ones. It also offers Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) shares, in which local home cooks pay in advance for a weekly produce box from Adaptations that is less expensive than comparable produce at the grocery store. The advance payments help the farmers reduce their risk and stabilize their finances. During the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, Maureen recalls, “We had to quickly pivot. Our CSA went from serving 125 families to 450 families.”
The farm-share model is a practice Hirabara Farms has embraced as well, but instead of a subscription, it offers a weekly box of whatever is fresh, for purchase when needed. Customers can also drop off a reusable bag, and the farm will fill it for $20. “We want people to have access to fresh, local produce,” says Echavez.
◗ Chef Ebreo notes that Hualālai doesn’t just buy from local farms because it’s the neighborly thing to do; he’s also searching for the best produce to use in his dishes. “Local tastes better; it tastes fresher. Yes, it’s more expensive than a case of cucumbers that comes from Mexico, but the quality is so much better.” Plus, he enjoys experimenting with the crops that the small farms send him. “Even if it’s a small quantity, I’ll take it and figure out how to get it on the menu as a one-off,” he says. “I’m not just using rainbow baby carrots from Adaptations; on the menu, you will see the farmer’s name, and the carrots will be equal on the plate [to] the protein.”
The farmers and the chefs influence one another. Maureen remembers how she and Tane were invited to the Hualālai property when it was being built. “We brought seed catalogs with us and looked at what kind of crops they were excited about and what we could grow.” Echavez, who was once a chef himself, adds, “We’re always trying to keep it interesting because chefs get bored. They want different stuff.”
Maureen appreciates that chefs like Hualālai’s Ebreo champion the farms they source from. “I think it gives the diner a greater appreciation for the produce to see the animation of the chef and waitstaff as they describe where the ingredients come from and the relationships they have with the farmers.” Echavez offers a similar perspective: “When you sit down and see this beautiful, local salad, it’s important to understand the time and care that went into it. There are a lot of hands along the way.”
“ When people travel , they want to eat local food, try local beer, and taste local produce.”
—JAMES EBREO, Hualālai’s executive sous-chef
Greens ultimately used in salads at
Hualālai’s restaurants first take root at Hirabara Farms.
NATIVE HAWAIIANS’ AGE-OLD WAY OF LIFE IS A BEACON TO TODAY’S CONSERVATION LEADERS WORKING TOWARD A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE IN THE ARCHIPELAGO.
BY KEALIʻI THOENE
TWO
YEARS AGO, IN THE FALL OF , THE GLOBAL POPULATION REACHED AN INCONCEIVABLE BILLION PEOPLE .
Those born 50 years ago have seen the number of people on Earth double in their lifetime. While population growth is predicted to continue, the number of known planets that support human life remains at one. Now is the time for reflection.
In the late 1400s, a population increase in the pae ‘āina (Hawaiian archipelago) began to stress the island chain’s resources, and as the population grew, so too did the need for new approaches to cultivate and care for ancestral lands. For hundreds of years, the responsibility to steward a particular area of land had been determined by a father’s or mother’s lineage—until an O‘ahu chief named Mā‘ilikūkahi reworked the societal structure so completely that what could have been a tragic story of extinction instead became a remarkable story of roughly 400 years of abundance.
Mā‘ilikūkahi invented a new system of land tenure. He divided the island into sections, or slices if you will, and further divided each slice into parcels. Mā‘ilikūkahi then took the responsibility for specific lands away from family clans and gave it to ali‘i (chiefs). Ali‘i became the decision-makers within the land divisions, and controlled the natural resources, focusing primarily on water quality, food production, and labor specialization. With collective unity and the goal of sharing abundance, ancient Hawaiians enjoyed a time of plenty without a single import or export (today, more than 99 percent of Hawai‘i’s staple food is imported).
Mā‘ilikūkahi’s ahupua‘a system offers lessons in conservation and restoration for our changing world today. A group of educators, stewards, and practitioners, including Hualālai Resort, has been working since 2021 to revisit and appropriately accelerate the holistic functions of an ahupua‘a through a Hawai‘i Conservation Alliance program called the Ahupua‘a Accelerator Initiative, or AAI.
To care for Hawai‘i’s land and water, native Hawaiians are harking back to the ahupua‘a system of resources management and implementing a new program—the Ahupua‘a Accelerator Initiative, or AAI— inspired by it.
If the word ahupua‘a sounds unfamiliar to the unaccustomed ear, the ahupua‘a itself remains the most elegant way to manage natural and social resources in Hawai‘i. Ahupua‘a are divisions of land, often delineated by the flow of water through a watershed. Although ahupua‘a boundaries still exist in Hawai‘i today, the ali‘i who regulated human actions within those boundaries do not. This is where the AAI comes in: The AAI program engages multiple caretakers within six ahupua‘a, on six islands, across the state. The aim is to understand and recontextualize lessons from an ancient system and reinterpret them to benefit Hawai‘i’s current regulatory, social, and natural landscape.
Hualālai Resort sits within the boundaries of one of the AAI sites, the ahupua‘a of Ka‘ūpūlehu. The Resort is a member of the Ka‘ūpūlehu Marine Life Advisory Committee (KMLAC), which is an AAI site partner.
“Ka‘ūpūlehu has no surface water—[it] was kind of mind-blowing the first time that I heard that,” says AAI coordinator and biodiversity scientist Pua‘ala Pascua, who grew up in the lush environs of He‘eia and Mānoa on O‘ahu. But even with these tough conditions, where there’s a lack of natural water at or very near to the ground’s surface, Hawaiians of Ka‘ūpūlehu have always understood how to thrive there without flowing rivers and streams or natural lakes. According to
Pascua, the scarcity of surface water “underscores the importance of the different stewardship practices that happen in Ka‘ūpūlehu that allow people to care for the water resources that they do have, and how those limited water resources inform the ways that they interact with the place.”
Individuals who interact with Ka‘ūpūlehu thoughtfully to ensure a thriving environment for years to come include Nicky Tachibana, natural resources supervisor at Hualālai, and her team. They embody the concept that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts: “We are not separate from, we are not above; we are a part of,” she says. “I think the Ahupua‘a Accelerator and ahupua‘a in general really highlight that we are still connected, and we rely on it all for life.”
Centuries ago, ali‘i could make sweeping management decisions designed to protect resources, and they could do so nimbly and quickly. Without these ali‘i in place today, ahupua‘a-scale management decisions are often enacted at a frustratingly sluggish pace.
In 1998, for example, the kama‘āina of the Ka‘ūpūlehu and neighboring Kūki‘o ahupua‘a noticed a decline in the ocean
WITH COLLECTIVE UNITY AND THE GOAL OF SHARING ABUNDANCE, ANCIENT HAWAIIANS ENJOYED A TIME OF PLENTY WITHOUT A SINGLE IMPORT OR EXPORT.
From the dryland tropical forests of Ka‘ūpūlehu (above) to the slopes of Hualālai (opposite), the AAI program engages caretakers to mindfully manage essential resources.
KEEPERS OF KA‘UPULEHU
An ahupua‘a typically begins as a narrow boundary at a mountain peak and slowly widens as it approaches the coastline. The health of the uplands affects the health of the entire ahupua‘a. There are many organizations fiercely protecting the forests mauka (toward the mountains) of Hualālai Resort, so that water can remain abundant and of high quality. Ho‘ola Ka Makana‘ā is an outreach and education stewardship program that aims to protect and restore the extremely rare dryland tropical forest of Ka‘ūpūlehu (only 5 percent of all native dryland forests remain in the state of Hawai‘i). To support efforts by donating, visit piliaina.org. The higher-elevation forests of Ka‘ūpūlehu have been taken care of by four generations of the Duarte family through their family organization Uluha‘o o Hualālai. Visit uluhao.com to learn more and to arrange an immersive, small group tour of the spectacular landscape. To learn more about stewardship efforts along the coast of Ka‘ūpūlehu, visit trywait.info. Finally, those interested in donating to efforts across the ahupua‘a may reach out via huikahuwai@gmail.com. —K.T.
A hard-fought pause on fishing in the Ka‘ūpūlehu Marine Reserve—which, along with Hualālai, is within the boundaries of an AAI site—has thus far yielded positive results.
resources. They were worried the fish population would be depleted beyond recovery. The year prior, in 1997, the KMLAC was formed, with members including lineal descendants of the Ka‘ūpūlehu ahupua‘a, educators, scientists, government agencies, and Hualālai Resort. A management plan was created that provided best practices for fishing and harvesting on the coast. The problem, however, was the voluntary guidelines were rarely followed by the public. So KMLAC devised and championed legislation for a 10-year moratorium on fishing within the Ka‘ūpūlehu Marine Reserve. The “Try Wait” initiative, as it was called, finally went into effect in 2016, 18 years after KMLAC’s first resource-management plan was published.
That said, the eight-year pause in fishing thus far has already yielded promising results. Tachibana has noticed that the diversity of fish species has increased, larger fishes have been coming into shallower water, and the habitat of certain species has expanded. “Ten years is long, but it’s not that long if you think about what it takes to replenish a species. So it’s been amazing to see those little changes happening.”
While the ahupua‘a tenure system of old may be long gone, the AAI is reimagining how ahupua‘a may function in modern times. In April of 2022, the AAI launched a peer-to-peer learning cohort with 15 representatives across the group’s six partner sites and clocked 120 hours of discussions and exchanges. Pascua remembers asking the partners, “What does a healthy and thriving ahupua‘a look like in the present day?”
“TEN YEARS IS LONG, BUT IT’S NOT THAT LONG IF YOU THINK ABOUT WHAT IT TAKES TO REPLENISH A SPECIES.”
—NICKY TACHIBANA , Hualālai’s natural resources supervisor
The common answer, she says, was “having multiple generations of practitioners present on ‘āina and caring for ‘āina.”
That vision of everyone—parents, grandparents, children— teaming up to mālama ‘āina (care for land) is not just a quaint reverie. Our climate emergency demands that every generation participates in stewardship. Successful stewardship includes listening to the people who have thrived in these places for generations. According to Pascua, Indigenous-run stewardship programs, led by lineal descendants, such as the Ka‘ūpūlehu Marine Reserve, the Kalaemanō Cultural Reserve, the Ka‘ūpūlehu Dryland Forest, and Uluha‘o o Hualālai, are already happening on Hawai‘i Island. “In Ka‘ūpūlehu, perhaps
more clearly than anyplace else, these stewardship efforts are very clearly being driven by people of place. It’s really beautiful to see that community-driven, community-centered application of stewardship.”
The ahupua‘a system is a model that worked for ancient Hawaiians, and it can be made to work again. If Hawai‘i is a microcosm of our globe, then the ahupua‘a model could be a microcosm of a solution that might be revived, replicated, and scaled for a more sustainable world. It could be, as long as we listen to Indigenous people of place and embody the understanding that the success of the individual depends on the success of the collective.
Rare Beauty
With its expansive views, exclusive location, and exquisite finishes, this gorgeous home is one of Hualālai’s most desirable properties.
BY
FAN WINSTON I PHOTOGRAPHY BY ETHAN TWEEDIE
rand yet cozy. Expansive yet private. Stylish yet simple. This custom-built, no-expense-spared retreat is set on more than an acre of prime real estate at Hualālai Resort—with stunning views of the Members-only Ke‘olu Golf Course, the Pacific Ocean, and Maui Island in the distance. The 5,374-square-foot home was designed by architect Paul Bleck and built by GM Construction to have it all: Highlights include a lush tropical courtyard complete with lily ponds; high-end finishes, such as ipe floors and mahogany millwork; an infinity pool with sweeping ocean views; and covered outdoor areas that add more than 1,800 square feet of living space. There’s even an outdoor kitchen, replete with a commercial-grade wood-burning grill and rotisserie, for the ultimate entertaining flex. But the best part may just be the property’s separate three-bedroom guesthouse, which guests and owners alike will appreciate.
Curve Appeal
To enter the property, one must first walk through a gated, professionally landscaped courtyard featuring palm trees, tropical plants, and two lily ponds. The large, pivoting mahogany front door hints at what lies inside—design that prioritizes exquisite materials and quality craftsmanship. Just beyond the foyer is a great room with vaulted ceilings that feels larger than it is, thanks to sliding mahogany pocket doors that, when open, blur the line between the indoors and outdoors. The award-winning design firm Willman Interiors chose a neutral palette, accented with pops of red and light blue, to keep the focus on the space’s breathtaking view. Curves, in the form of an oversize rounded sofa and undulating cloudlike pendant lights, soften the right angles and straight lines in the room. The design theme continues in the backyard, where a curved infinity pool with wet deck takes center stage. Not in the mood to soak up the sun? Step into the welcoming shade of the vast lānai.
Spirited Design
The interiors skew modern and minimalist, but that doesn’t mean the style is quiet or bland. On the contrary, the home is appointed with bold, statementmaking pieces, like the pair of cherry-red swivel chairs in the living area and the sculptural mirror in the powder room. And throughout the residence, arresting customdesigned lighting animates each room, including the kitchen. The artfully lighted cook space is outfitted with mahogany cabinets, Wolf appliances, Dekton countertops, a glass-tile backsplash, a walk-in pantry, and a window pass-through to the outdoor dining area, making the home perfect for elegant soirees.
Room to Breathe
Yes, the layout of this luxe property is conducive to throwing swanky cocktail parties and fun barbecues, but it also allows for plenty of personal rest and relaxation. The serene primary suite is sequestered on one end of the home and spacious enough to accommodate a sitting area. Large sliding pocket doors lead to a private lānai, where one can take in incredible views of the Pacific. The en suite bathroom, with its walk-in shower and generous picture window, has a spa-like feel. It, too, has access to the outdoors, via a glass door that opens out onto a tropical lava-rock-walled garden with an outdoor shower. Here and throughout the home, the emphasis is on outdoor living: One can lounge, cook, eat, and shower en plein air, all without sacrificing comfort or style.
A glass door opens out onto a tropical lava-rockwalled garden with an outdoor shower.
room with a view
TWILIGHT ZONE
The spellbinding vistas from this covered lānai are real, despite how otherworldly they might seem. Those who settle into the oversize sofas and gather around the firepit at this spectacular Hualālai home (see “Rare Beauty,” page 48), perhaps with sundown cocktails in hand, can take in the island surrounds—including a beautifully backlit Maui on the horizon—while catching up with one another and looking ahead to the next fun-filled day. One option for the day’s events is the pool deck just off the lānai, for those who wish to sunbathe and swim and maybe fire up the outdoor grilling station. But there’s also plenty to do beyond the boundaries of this ultra-private, five-bedroom estate on a 48,110-square-foot lot. From playing the Members-only Keʻolu Golf Course (the home overlooks the 15th hole) to indulging in treatments at the Hualālai Spa and embarking on ocean adventures with the Resort’s Alakaʻi Nalu, Members and their guests can engage in any number of incredible activities from dawn to dusk.
MILLER & LUX HUAL Ā LAI
Acclaimed American Steakhouse with the Distinct Flavors of Hawai'i
Miller & Lux Hualālai offers a refined yet comfortable dining experience curated by celebrated Chef and Food Network Host, Tyler Florence. Guests can expect the highestquality steaks with impeccable flavor from the best ranches in the country; a robust raw bar; fresh sustainable seafood; and farm-direct vegetables – inspired by the cuisine and bounty of Hawai‘i Island. Hand-selected wines and seasonal cocktails complement the cuisine.
