HP MAGAZINE VOLUME 23 DECEMBER 2020

HP MAGAZINE EUROPE

VOLUME 23 | DECEMBER 2020

SHOES YOU CAN'T LOSE

The Best Of The Season

WHAT'S NEXR FOR LUXURY FASHION?

PENTHESILEA

On Beauty, Fashion And Her Lifestyle

FASHION MODEL

BEAUTY'S IT LIST

New Products That Will Change Your Life

GARIMON ROFEROS

DOLCE & GABBANA

HP MAGAZINE CONTENTS

VOLUME 23|DECEMBER 2020

Interview

15

Saint Laurent to debut spring/summer 2021 on December 15

18

Luxury sales to fall 23 percent, back to 2014 levels, says report

24

Fashion & Culture News

26 This Floating Spaceport in Japan could 28 bring space travel to the city

lookbook Canadian Designer Aurora James is Honoured at The Fashion Awards 2020

32 38

6 ways to balance combination hair if you have dry ends and an oily scalp

50

Having a bad skin day? Here are the expert-approved quick fixes that will get you through

55

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CLOTHES 路 BAGS 路 SHOES 路 COSMETICS 路 LIFESTYLE

2020 MEDIA KIT

PRACTICE WHAT YOU PREACH AN INTERVIEW WITH PENTHESILEA BY HARSHIT PATEL

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HP MAGAZINE

INTERVIEW

Hi, could you start by telling us a bit

Who have been some of your favorite

about yourself?

collaborators so far in the industry?

Hi dear readers, I’m Penthesilea, 34, from

My favorite collaboration so far was with FHM

Amsterdam and I work as a model and have

magazine, I dreamed about being in the FHM

my own cosmetic brand Be Glamourous.

since I was 12.

How would you describe your style?

What first piqued your interest in

My style is feminine, sexy, classy. I love

fashion and modeling?

wearing skirts or dresses and I wear 5 inch

Ever since I was a little girl I would dream

heels every day.

about being a model, I’ve always loved fashion, hair & make up.

Tell me about your experience as a model.

What is fun and rewarding about

I love modeling, it gives me the change to

modeling? And what is not?

wear amazing clothes, travel, meet new

It’s fun to be able to travel, it pays well and

people and I love having beautiful pictures of

the beautiful pictures. What I don’t like is

myself.

waiting for hours and always being judged on your looks.

2020 has been the strangest of years, how did you find lockdown? Any

10.What is the biggest highlight of your

lessons or discoveries?

career so far?

To be honest, I don’t really mind the

The biggest so far are my covers on different

lockdown, we should have this every year for

magazines.

a month of two, to get all the rest you need and to de-stress. This year we’ve all learned to

Do you have a favorite designeror high

take a step back, reflect on life, and for me,

street brand?

now when we spend time with our loved ones, it’s really all about spending quality time; cooking together, watching a movie etc.

What are your hopes for the future of the fashion industry?

I think the fashion industry portraits a certain type of woman, mainly Caucasian or really dark skin women. There should be more diversity.

I love Balmain, Versace, D&G, Elie Saab.

What is your greatest strength My strenght is my extreme intelligence and that most people underestimate me.

What are your goals as a model?

My goal is to be on the cover of a high end fashion magazine.

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INTERVIEW

What are your greatest accomplishments so far?

Graduating from university.

What sorts of settings/clothes/brands do you prefer to shoot for or wear?

I really like wearing clothes that matches my own style, but unfortunately it’s not up to us models what we get to wear.

We are huge fans of your Instagram. Do you have any tips or tricks for achieving an aesthetically awesome Instagram page?

Aawwww thank you so much! Well to be honest I really don’t think much about what my Instagram page or what I post, I just post work and now & then a selfie.

So I really don’t have any tips.

What’s the one habit you have that changed your life for the better?

I think that will be my ability to have self-reflection, to learn in life you have to be able to self-reflect. Many of us can’t do that, it’s always another person. Be like Ghandi; “Be the change you wish to see in the world.”

What’s something people would be surprised to learn about you?

That I love to clean and that I’m a nice person, most people assume by my looks, that I’m not nice.

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FASHION

Saint Laurent to debut spring/summer 2021 on December 15

With the traditional fashion calendar thrown to the wind for now in the wake of coronavirus, brands are still debuting spring/summer 2021 collections. Saint Laurent will be debuting their spring/summer 2021 collection on December 15 via a video format.

No further details about Saint Laurent’s video have been provided, including if anyone major is starring in it, where it was shot, or the inspiration for the video. For their spring/summer 2021 men’s show, Saint Laurent featured models leaping over rooftops and landing on a raised runway attached to the Eiffel Tower.

Saint Laurent shows are often known to be a bit of a spectacle, so its anticipated this video will not disappoint. Other competing luxury brands that have recently opted for a video format include Chanel, which just revealed their Métiers d’Art collection last week, and Dior, which just revealed their men’s pre-fall collection online yesterday.

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FASHION

Dior to unveil men's pre-fall collection on Twitch

Well, this is certainly a first in fashion history. Dior has announced their latest pre-fall collection will be debuting on streaming platform Twitch in lieu of an in-person fashion show. The collection will also feature Dior’s latest collaboration with artist Kenny Scharf. The show will debut on December 8 at 2 p.m. CET on Dior.com.

With the global coronavirus pandemic upending travel, Dior’s usual approach to showing pre-fall had to take a different format. Last year, the brand debuted their men’s pre-fall collection at Art Basel in Miami Beach, but this year Art Basel has been cancelled.

Brands have been trying to find new ways to debut collections in the wake of the upheaval of the traditional runway show format. Balenciaga recently debuted their latest collection via a video game and Chanel did a video format show for their Métier d’Art collection where A-list actress Kristin Stewart was the only guest in attendance.

AQUAE

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BUSINESS

Luxury sales to fall 23 percent, back to 2014 levels, says report

2020 has been a reckoning for the fashion and luxury industries, recording one of the worst years with sales down 23 percent over 2019. A new report by Bain shows the drop is the largest recorded fall since it began tracking the luxury industry. The overall market, it says, shrunk for the first time since 2009.

Other findings show e-commerce luxury has doubled its share from last year to 23 percent and consumers demanding the luxury sector to demonstrate real and sustained commitment to diversity, inclusion and sustainability.

The findings were released by Bain in association with Italy’s Fondazione Altagamma for the 19th edition of the Bain & Company Luxury Study. “We have all experienced a difficult year of rapid, unexpected changes and luxury has not emerged unscathed,” said Claudia D’Arpizio, a Bain & Company partner and lead author of the study. “While the industry has suffered from a pause in global travel and ongoing lockdowns, we believe it has the necessary resilience to manage through the crisis. We have faith in its ability to transform its operations and redefine its purpose to meet new customer demands and retain its relevance, especially for younger generations.”

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BUSINESS

The outlook for 2021 remains invariably subdued, with Bain forecasting growth somewhere between 10 and 19 percent depending on macroeconomic conditions, the evolution of Covid-19 and the speed of return to travel globally as well as the resilience and confidence of local customers.

The changes brought by Covid-19 increased the presence of online in every aspect of life. In the luxury market, online sales made up EUR49 billion in 2020, up from EUR33 billion in 2019, the report said. The share of purchases made online nearly doubled from 12 percent in 2019 to 23 percent in 2020.

Online is set to become the leading channel for luxury purchases by 2025. This dramatic increase comes at the expense of bricks-and-mortar. Bain expects no growth in the number of stores operated directly by brands in 2020 and possible decline in store networks in 2021. Brands will need to adjust their footprints to the new map of luxury buying, evolve the store role and its ergonomics, and maximize the customer experience.

“Luxury brands have faced a year of tremendous shifts but we believe that the industry will come out of the crisis with more purpose and more dynamism than ever before,” said Federica Levato, a Bain & Company partner and coauthor of the study. “By 2030, this industry will be drastically transformed. We will not talk about luxury industry anymore, but of the market for insurgent cultural and creative excellence. In this new enlarged space, the winning brands will be those that build on their existing excellence while reimagining the future with an insurgent mindset. Luxury players will need to think boldly to rewrite the rules of the game.”

Article source Bain & Company; Image Louis Vuitton travel campaign via Louis Vuitton website

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CULTURE

Christian Dior exhibit coming to McCord Museum

The designs of the original master of his namesake fashion house, Christian Dior himself, will be coming to the McCord Museum for a major exhibition.

From June 11 to September 23, the exhibit will focus on Christian Dior's designs that helped revive the world of haute couture after World War II. The exhibit, produced by the Royal Ontario Museum, will feature couture pieces dating back from 1947 to 1957 as well as pieces drawn from the Royal Ontario Museum's collection of Dior couture. The exhibit will also showcase the process Christian Dior used for couture creation back then. In addition, pieces from McCord Museum's Dress, Fashion and Textiles collection will be featured along with loans from Dior Héritage, Paris.

In 1947, the opening of the new couture house and the revolutionary “New Look” swept away the wartime masculine silhouette of women, making Christian Dior’s postwar fashions desired, worn and copied by women around the world. All of these decades later, Dior is still one of the most world renowned and coveted luxury brands, currently owned by luxury conglomerate LVMH.

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CULTURE

Metropolitan Museum announces spring 2020 Costume Institute exhibition

The Metropolitan Museum of Art will host "About Time: Fashion and Duration" for its annual spring Costume Institute exhibition. On view from May 7, 2020 through September 7, the show will also aid in the museum's ongoing celebration of its 150th anniversary, as it illustrates 150 years of fashion history.

“This exhibition will consider the ephemeral nature of fashion, employing flashbacks and fast-forwards to reveal how it can be both linear and cyclical,” musem director Max Hollein explained in a statement. “As such, the show will present a nuanced continuum of fashion over the Museum’s 150-year history. ”Curated by Andrew Botlon, "About Time" will employ philosopher Henri Bergson’s concept of flowing time to explore the ways in which clothing has generated associations that bring together the past, present, and future.

The exhibition will feature about 160 examples of women’s fashion from 1870 to the today, with most items coming directly from the Costume Institute’s collection.

This year's Met Gala will be held on May 4, with co-chairs Ncolas Ghesquière, Lin-Manuel Miranda, Emma Stone, Meryl Streep and Anna Wintour.

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DESIGN

This Floating Spaceport in Japan could bring space travel to the city

Cylindrical steel and glass towers protrude through solar panels on the vast circular roof of the futuristic, four-story Spaceport City.

The spaceport rises from an island that floats in Tokyo Bay, with the skyscrapers of Japan's capital in the background. It's designed to launch tourists on day trips to space, where they will be able to see the building's huge roof -- as well as glimpse the curvature of the Earth and experience zero gravity.

If that sounds like a vision of the future, that's because it is. But Noiz Architects -- who designed the concept in collaboration with communications firm Dentsu, designers Canaria, and non-profit Spaceport Japan -- hope that the coming years will see a new generation of spaceports constructed as part of the urban landscape.

The spaceport will do much more than offering adventurous tourists the trip of a lifetime. It's a day trip destination in itself, with lifestyle and education facilities designed to help earthbound visitors become "more familiar with space" says Urszula Kuczma, project manager at Noiz Architects.

The mixed-use space includes research and business facilities, an education academy, shops, a hotel, an astronaut-food restaurant, a 4D IMAX movie theatre, an art museum, a gym, an aquarium, and a disco -- all space-themed, of course.

To make the spaceport accessible, Noiz Architects' design incorporates public transport with a network of bridges that carry electric cars and autonomous trains, seamlessly integrating the floating island with the city, says Kuczma. The idea, she says, is to stimulate economic opportunities, while inspiring people to explore the possibilities of technology and the wonders of space.

Commercial suborbital spaceflights are not yet available, but companies including Blue Origin and Virgin Galactic are testing suborbital spacecrafts for space tourism.

Virgin Galactic is leading the way in the development of horizontal-launch spacecraft -- the type that Spaceport City is designed for. The company has flown crewed test flights and has already signed up over 600 passengers for the yet unscheduled $250,000-per-seat, 90-minute spaceflight, which it hopes to launch as early as next year.

The company says its spacecraft will fly at least 50 miles (80 kilometers) above Earth, and travelers will be able to leave their seats for a few minutes to experience zerogravity.

While the spaceflight will take less than two hours, those hoping to shoot for the stars will undergo three days of training before they take off, says Virgin Galactic.

Tokyo's Spaceport City is designed to showcase the benefits of urban spaceports, to get city dwellers on board with having a spaceport on their doorstep, says Hidetaka Aoki, director of Spaceport Japan.

Resistance from concerned residents has made some spaceport projects in other countries difficult, he says. However, urban spaceports could enable "point-to-point spaceflight" such as flying from Hong Kong to Los Angeles in an hour, says Aoki.

This kind of spaceflight is still decades off, but Spaceport Japan wants conceptual projects like Spaceport City to lay the groundwork in changing perceptions and "educating" the public about "potential business," says Aoki.

Whether elements of Noiz Architects' design will make it into spaceports of the future remains to be seen -- but the project starts a conversation about what space travel could be like.

Kuczma hopes it will give "people a peek and get them primed for the concept of space as part of the contemporary landscape."

Photographer: @spontane_fotografie Mua: @kenzabeauty_ Dress: @rafinityhautecouture Photographer:@fotograaf_f ilm_warda_beny Mua: @sara_oul_mua Dress: @cinderelladressx

Canadian Designer Aurora James is Honoured at The Fashion Awards 2020

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STYLE

The Fashion Awards are usually a glittering night of fashion’s finest gathering to celebrate the top talent in the industry but as with everything in 2020, this year’s awards looked a little different.

As a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, the awards went virtual this year and changed format. Instead of specific awards, 20 people were honoured with awards across four categories: Community, People, Environment and Creativity. The votes were cast by 800 members of the international fashion industry who “were called upon to nominate who they thought should receive an accolade” according to a release. The final list was then determined by comparing the nominations to the criteria for each of the categories, as well as the number of nominations.

The Canadian designer was honoured alongside British Vogue’s Edward Enniful, Lindsay Peoples Wagner and Sandrine Charles of the Black in Fashion Council, designer Priya Ahluwalia for her work in promoting sustainable fashion and raising awareness around the challenges of the Black community, and A-COLD-WALL* designer Samuel Ross, who created the Black Lives Matter Financial Aid Scheme.

In the community category – which “focuses on the impact fashion has on communities in light of the pandemic as well as the role skills and craftsmanship can play in sustaining local livelihoods” – A Sai Ta was recognized alongside Chanel, the Emergency Designer Network, Kenneth Ize and Michael Halpern.

Anya Hindmarch, Christopher Raeburn, Gabriela Hearst, Stella McCartney and The Fashion Pact were all recognized for their efforts in helping to create a circular fashion economy in the Environment category, whilst Grace Wales Bonner, Jonathan Anderson, Kim Jones, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons for Prada, Riccardo Tisci and Burberry were all honoured in the Creativity category for their “global impact.”

CINDERELLA'S CLOSET

HERBIVORE BOTANICALS

TONY WARD

6 ways to balance combination hair if you have dry ends and an oily scalp

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BEAUTY

If you hair is parched or super greasy, finding the right products to mattify, moisturise or balance are easy to pick off a shelf. But if you find your scalp oily and your ends parched, dull and prone to breakage, it can be harder to narrow down on the right routine. We spoke to two experts for their take on what you can do.

1) Find the right shampoo What you need is a shampoo that is gentle on your strands, yet effective enough to clean the scalp. “Combination hair is usually the result of the sebum not being able to travel down the length of the hair from the root; so the scalp remains too oily and the hair ends appear dry and brittle," says hairstylist Daniel Bauer. You want to choose a shampoo that contains ingredients like clay to mop up excess oil, lactic acid to slough away dead skin on the scalp as well as moisturisers like glycerin and dimethicone. “Look for ingredients like salicylic acid and tea tree oil in your shampoo to tackle the greasiness," says Dr Madhulika Mhatre, consultant dermatology, Wockhardt Hospital.

2) Change your shampooing tactic Wash your hair less than you think. Over-washing—especially to get rid of the oil slick—doesn't help, because it causes the scalp's sebum production to actually go into overdrive thanks to harsh astringents. Bauer suggests going between blowouts by spritzing on a dry shampoo. When you do wash your hair, "direct the shampoo more on your scalp and use a diluted version on the hair strands as you need maximum action at the root, and less at the tips,” says Dr Mhatre.

3) Don't forget to condition your hair Conditioner—a product that contains emollients, silicones and oils—is important as it smooths the hair, closes the cuticles and replenish hair's moisture after it is stripped from shampooing. Dr Mhatre says that conditioning every single time you shampoo is a must-do. Squeeze some of the water out of strands after shampooing it, as excess water dilutes the products and prevents it from soaking up the beneficial ingredients. Apply in long, fluid motions from the mid-lengths to the ends, and leave on for two minutes, she confirms.

4) Try a deep-conditioning treatment Mhatre suggests the application of coconut oil, but only on the strands (and not the scalp and roots). “Coconut oil can penetrate the hair shaft and repair it from within. All you need are four to six drops, rub it between your palms and apply over the lengths of the hair shaft. Use it like how you would a serum,” explains Dr Mhatre. Then rinse after leaving it on for 20-30 minutes.

5) Use heat tools judiciously Blow-drying your hair on a high heat setting can actually worsen both conditions—the heat can dry out the ends and rev up oil production on the scalp. To prevent this, using a heat protector is important. Plus, experts suggest using moisturising products only on the bottom half, and preemptively spritzing the scalp with a dry shampoo or texturiser before you style.

6) Brush your hair “Use a soft bristle comb to safely and gently brush through your hair,” says Bauer. This will help take some of the softening and shine-boosting sebum down the shaft from the scalp down to the ends. This allows for a more balanced distribution of oil.

BIOSSANCE

Having a bad skin day?

Here are the expertapproved quick fixes that will get you through

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BEAUTY

Ever have one of those days when your skin feels a little off from the moment you wake up? Your forehead feels slick, there’s a new zit threatening to push through and there’s a dull tinge to the skin that you’re certain wasn’t there the night before. No matter how vigilant you are with your skincare regimen, sometimes there’s just no avoiding those days. While precautionary measures can help keep the bad skin days to a minimum, if you ever find yourself on the wrong end of a skincare crisis, here are the expert-approved quick remedies that will camouflage just about anything.

1. Puffy eyes Puffy eyes are generally caused by swelling around the eyes due to excessive accumulation of fluids in surrounding skin tissues, explains Dr Sejal Shah, consultant dermatologist at Kaya Youth. “Gently massaging the undereye area with Vitamin E oil helps improve lymphatic drainage,” she says. Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder of Yavana Aesthetics Clinic, adds, “The instant fix for puffy eyes is to reach for whatever cold substance you have at hand, such as an ice pack, chilled vegetable bag, cold eye masks or a cold compress. Apply it on the puffy area for 5-10 minutes as it will bring down the inflammation by constricting the blood vessels immediately.” The Mumbaibased skin expert also recommends keeping a pair of clean spoons in the freezer to be used as an instant fix whenever needed.

2. Skin dullness Feel like the wattage has been turned down on your skin’s glow? “Use a chemical exfoliator containing glycolic and mandelic acid to gently exfoliate the skin and follow it up with a Vitamin C hyaluronic serum to stimulate the skin and make it glow again.,” she says. If you’re looking for a home remedy, she also advises mashing a banana with honey and applying it for 20 minutes to rejuvenate the skin.

3. Skin redness “If your skin has a tendency for redness, the ideal quick fix is to keep green tea bags soaked in water in the refrigerator. Applying the cool solution as a compress will help bring down the redness instantly,” she adds. If you have your makeup kit at hand, celebrity makeup artist Mitali Vakil recommends reaching for a green colour corrector to counteract the redness in the skin.

4. Dark circlesIf you’re looking to mask the effects of a few late nights, you’ll find a few quick fixes in your makeup bag. Vakil says, “Don’t rub your eyes and instead, use a dark peach colour corrector. It is advisable to always go for a neutral-toned concealer, an anything that is too yellow or too pink will make your dark circles look ashy and grey.” If you have the time for a visit to the dermat’s chair, Dr Agarwal recommends asking for a 15-minute hyaluronic acid filler that can work as an instant as well as a lasting solution for dark circles.

5. Oily T-zone Resist the impulse to wash your face and instead, wipe the oily T-zone with a clean blotting paper, she advises. “Oil blotting sheets, such as bamboo and charcoal, can help soak excess oil from the face and eliminate the extra shine on the T-zone,” agrees Dr Shah. Vakil also advises against opting for any harsh measures. “Natural oils are good for your face, as they protect the skin.

A light hand of powder on the oily area should do the trick.”

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