HP MAGAZINE | VOLUME 40 | APRIL 2021

HP MAGAZINE VOLUME 40 | APRIL 2021

STRESS, GUILT, SHAME?

The Way Out

CAYE PALMA GOITE “help people, even when you know they can’t help you back “ FASHION MODEL

THREE CELEBRITY LOOKS YOU NEED TO ACE NOW

BOLD BEAUTY

Loud Lips, Molten Eyes & Statement Lashes

VALDRIN SAHITI

GRAFF

HP MAGAZINE VOLUME40 | APRIL 2021

Fashion

Fashion’s obsession with the ocean is more than just a trend—it’s a call to action

Luxury

Irreverent or insane? A $76K sandal cut from real Birkin bags

Architecture

Construction Begins On MVRDV’s Geology-Inspired Mixed-Use Tower In San Francisco

Lifestyle

Over The Moon Makes It Easy to Curate a Stylish Yet Practical Wedding Registry

Beauty

The 4 Rules of NaturalLooking Blush, According to Beyoncé’s Makeup Artist and More

15. INTERVIEW 20. ALESSANDRO MARRO 30. LOOKBOOK 54. ALBINA DYLA 64. CHANEL BEAUTY

www.marciano.com

Marciano

CLOTHES · BAGS · SHOES · COSMETICS · LIFESTYLE

2021 MEDIA KIT

AN INTERVIEW WITH CAYE PALMA GOITE BY HARSHIT PATEL

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INTERVIEW

Hi, could you start by telling us a bit about yourself?

I am Caye Palma Goite, I am the eldest of 2 siblings. I was born in a small City in the Philippines " DIPOLOG CITY". Growing up in Dipolog is fun memories I've had. I always missed my Family and friends way back home since I moved here in San Francisco California. Been years since I visited my country, the Philippines. I am a very simple person and living in a simple life here in the US. I am a type of person who loves to travel and see many things in the world.

Tell us about your journey so far?

Journey in life is not easy as what others say. Many obstacles before you will reach your destination.I am a very ambitious person. I don't stop until I get what I want in life.

Dreaming a good life is easy to say but hard to get but as a strong woman journey will always be part of life.

How would you describe your style?

I always have my own style. Sometimes I can be sexy on my way or maybe messy look when I feel like I want to be comfortable with my looks depending on the days but when I'm at work I make sure that I am more professional than a model looking HAHA. My style is my style, never try to copy people's style. I love making my own style in terms of fashion and lifestyle.

Tell me about your experience as a model.

Way back in the Philippines I remember my first ever shoot. Someone asked me on Facebook if we can do fun shoots like the sun set concept as young women. I was so excited to do it and do glam make up with the glam team.But never really focusing on modeling until Instagram is out and the few collaborations i worked with here in the US. Always feel so honored to work with all these young and talented photographers in the Bay area. and can't wait for more projects in the future.

2020 has been the strangest of years, how did you find lockdown? Any lessons or discoveries?

Family matters more than what we realized.Family may be the best medicine of all.. Now we know if we cant see and hug our family is the hardest part of my 2020. My family lives in the Philippines and I am alone here in the US. I realized that despite the struggle and uncertainty in the world we need to be strong and positive. There is always hope and tomorrow.You can share your life's wisdom from a distance.These coping skills may be the greatest gifts of COVID- to an older generation and rightly fears isolation.I discover that Self Care is not Self-Indulgence. Not only does self-care have positive outcomes for you, but also sets an example to younger generation snd something to establish and maintain for your entire life.

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INTERVIEW

What are your hopes for the future of the fashion industry?

The fashion industry is changing and evolving. Fashion has found itself in a strange double bind recently. On one hand it is far from exciting time.The industry is evolving and while the rising tide is definitely not lifting all or most boats, it seems to open up doors and broader range of possible models.I truly hope that people can pay more attention to how their clothes are being produced and through that. Hopefully more people can appreciate what we are doing and realized what fast fashion is actually doing to people in our industry.

Who have been some of your favorite collaborators so far in the industry?

There are so many collaborators now in social media i don't have really favorite but i appreciate all of the content creators and artist in the industry.If you want to collaborate with fashion brands there are specific tips and advice.Making your own unique content will make you stand out among others.I love everything i appreciate creativity and style.For that that will make me my favorite.

What first piqued your interest in fashion and modeling?

I am very dedicated and passionate in fashion. Making new friends with fellow models and photographers will help you learn through exchanging tips for modeling. In terms of fashion being passionate and creative makes you create networking with professionals in the modeling industry.

What is fun and rewarding about modeling? And what is not?

New Experiences. Being a model will expose you to a lot of different skills, such proper posture, communication skills and poise that also you can apply to other careers. Having Free Stuff, Salary, Paid partnership, Publicity and exposure those are rewarding part of modeling.Modeling is a fun job but i dont consider it as career choice.

What is the biggest highlight of your career so far?

My greatest accomplishment occurred in my medical field career aside doing modeling on the side. I love taking care patients hearing their life stories and see them fixed with their illnesses and pains. In my job right now when patients or my boss and colleagues appreciate me those are my biggest highlights and achievements in my entire career so far.

Do you have a favorite designer.or high street brand?

My Favorite designers for clothing is MICHAEL CINCO, He is Dubai-base Filipino Designer, I am always dreaming to be one of his model and wear his creations.He is well-known for jaw droppingly beautiful, Fairytale-esque gowns.

What sorts of settings/clothes/brands do you prefer to shoot for or wear?

I usually do casual Shoots, Classy look, sometimes i wear Gucci, Prada or Chanel i love their clothing stuff.

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INTERVIEW

How has your style changed over the years?

The influenced of fashion industry and social media i think my style changed a lot better than years ago.Style is not about the high end brands your wear but how you carry and Five Dollar top and Ten dollar bottom. I love to be creative in my fashion style. When i look at myself in the mirror if that clothes looks good in me i will wear it but of course you need to have an eye for matching clothes.

What is your greatest strength My greatest strength is attention to detail. I've always been detail-oriented person. From my work to my photoshoot im kinda perfectionist type.I love to see perfection although theres no perfect in the world but we can create our strength and perfection.I am also Enthusiastic and respectful. I respect people's opinion and weaknesses.

What are your goals as a model?

I would like to have a good career in modeling in an international company to grow both personally and professionally. Maybe one day i will be part of the biggest modeling agency in the USA and EUROPE. Thats my goal and i am still working for it.I cant wait for that time to happen.

How do you imagine a typical day in work?

I imagine that i will always come on time early morning. I will check the day schedule meet my boss and our patients. Ask about task for the day task and if theres meetings for that day. After that i will maybe grab some coffee and bite.

We are huge fans of your Instagram. Do you have any tips or tricks for achieving an aesthetically awesome Instagram page?

My only tips is be Unique and creative. Make sure your content is eye catching for your followers. Theres a lot of competition in Instagram now a days. Content creators are 100% focus to make their content stand out from the others.

What’s the one habit you have that changed your life for the better?

Nobody can go back and start a new beginning, but anyone can start today and make a new ending. MY responsibility for my own self and for my family changed my life for the better.

What’s something people would be surprised to learn about you?

That i am introverted person i believe people think i love going out but i love being alone. I love spending time alone. I love my me time. And i think theres nothing wrong to be like that. HAHA. I love eating rice but i dont get fat that much. I love sweets so much. Sweet is my next boyfriend LOL.

Fashion’s obsession with the ocean is more than just a trend—it’s a call to action

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FASHION

Starfish have no brains, no blood, and eyes at the end of each arm. Although there are more than 2,000 species, they’re largely solitary creatures, spending their lives crawling alone along the seabed and eating what they find en route by extending their flexible stomachs out beyond their bodies to dissolve and digest clams, mussels, oysters, and more. Some look pearled, spiked or polka-dotted, while others come decked out in maximalist colours: bright blue, bubblegum pink, orange and purple.

They are striking creatures. No wonder the fashion world loves them.

These showy echinoderms took centre stage at Versace’s SS21 show alongside a number of other marine motifs. They crawled across printed silk and came bejewelled on mini dresses and blazers worn by wet-haired models. This isn’t the first time Versace has dabbled in marine life. The show was a direct homage to Gianni Versace’s SS92 Trésor de la Mer collection, which featured a similar array of eye-poppingly bright sea creatures.

The ocean’s treasures have always offered great riches to designers. Shells, nets, sharks, waves, reefs, seaweed, coral, creatures of the deep: the aesthetic and symbolic potential found in the sea is vast. Sometimes the plundering is relatively straightforward. The fanned lines of a scallop shell or gauzy movement of a jellyfish translate perfectly into the patterns and silhouettes of fabric in motion. Imaginative possibilities abound, too. The sea—vast, unknowable, volatile, both life-giving and lifetaking — provides a seductive setting for myths, tales and speculation about what lies beneath the surface.

Alexander McQueen’s SS10 runway collection, before his untimely death in February 2010, was titled Plato’s Atlantis, after the Greek philosopher’s fictitious sunken island.

Presenting an apocalyptic vision of climate change in which melting ice caps forced sea levels to rise, McQueen’s models embodied an evolutionary process of adaptation: dressed as eerie human-animal hybrids slowly morphing back into creatures that could survive a liquid future requiring gills and shimmering scales.

More than a decade later, McQueen’s concerns remain prescient. The return of marine influences to the catwalk epitomises a now-familiar split between the imaginative spectacle of the sea and deeper, more dystopian worries. In the former camp, we might place Simone Rocha, with her signature, often surreal, use of pearls and frequent references to watery tales (her AW20 Aran Islands-focused collection was inspired by the loss and baptism of the sea).

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FASHION

Serre is among the growing number of designers using textiles made from plastic bottles recovered from the ocean. No one knows precisely how polluted our seas are, but one estimate from 2015 suggested that the ocean had already accumulated more than 150m tonnes of plastic — a figure forecast to triple by 2040 unless drastic action is taken.

Since its inception in 2017, menswear label Botter has made this environmental plight one of its core concerns. The Dutch duo’s AW21 show came with a manifesto warning “without the sea, no human, no us.” The collection’s long, loose tailored lines were complemented by fishing tackle embellishments, scuba suit-style necks and windbreakers made from ocean plastic. It wasn’t just a question of fashionable solutions either. Botter also announced that it has set up an underwater coral nursery in Curaçao, an island in the Caribbean.

Even couture is getting in on the act and inevitably it has fallen to the ever-innovative Iris van Herpen to lead the charge. Following on from a collection last year titled Sensory Seas, which explored the lines between sea-life organisms and the human nervous system, Van Herpen’s recent SS21 couture show borrowed from the ocean in a different way: the Dutch couturier collaborating with the anti-pollution campaign Parley for the Oceans on a tessellated dress made from recycled plastic. As Herpen told Vogue, “There’s not a lot of reason not to use sustainable materials anymore, other than changing your mindset.”

Right now, the sea presents several opposed options to designers. It yields myths and thrills, buried treasures and biological splendours. It can be a place of freedom and fantasy, which is perhaps welcome right now. But it also captures the human capacity for destruction, as well as our chance for innovation. This darker, more future-focused strain seems set to expand, especially if Matty Bovan’s AW21 collection is anything to go by. The avant-garde designer characterised the sea as “terrifying and incredible” during a presentation imagining the chaotic aftermath of a shipwreck—invoking troubling images of natural disasters.

Much like the sea itself, inconstant and metamorphic, the ocean’s current presence in fashion continues to offer many things at once: refuge, escapism, potential resources, potent dystopias and a way of grappling with an uncertain future.

This London Designer Makes the Largest Extreme Scrunchies

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FASHION

Hannah HRH’s signature scrunchies for the London-based label HRH, when worn on the wrist, look like a stack of baroque bracelets in violet, tangerine, blush pink, and emerald. When worn in the traditional way, they take up the majority of the wearer’s head. Each scrunchie is made from nylon and individually stitched and is roughly the size of a watermelon. HRH, who debuted with the fashion collective Fashion East for fall 2021, has been creating her scrunchies for a year and designing accessories since 2018. At first, she began to make things for herself and then her friends. “I like to make things for myself or for my girlfriends,” she says. “It’s like giving a moment of extreme pleasure, like a special treat.”

As for sourcing, Rebecca goals to make every thing sustainable. “It can be quite fun and frivolous, but all of the materials are quite thought-out and luxurious. All of the padding for the scarves and the puffer items are made of unbleached lamb’s wool from this farm in Yorkshire, and the puffer material in the smaller bags is made from recycled bottles. Hopefully, next season all of the nylon will be able to be recycled as well.”

Many of the items really feel like they could possibly be plucked out of a renaissance period, like the scrunchies that may double as ruffled crowns (or perhaps a ruff!), or the nylon purses that may be additionally worn as a fur muff. Instead, Rebecca is influenced by ladies in sports activities. Her personal Instagram is dotted with footage of the late Flo-Jo, the quickest girl in the world who was additionally identified for outré observe appears, the “Magnificent 7” gymnastics crew of the 1996 Olympics who donned American flag print leotards, and gymnast Alicia Sacramone in a hearth engine purple leotard at the 2008 Olympics in Beijing. She particularly cites gymnasts as the inspiration for her scrunchies. “I’m really obsessed with decorations in sports and femininity and how we dismiss aesthetics versus performance,” she says. “There is this kind of camaraderie of these wonderful teams of gymnasts. They are sitting around, waiting for their results, and are in their tracksuits, makeup, and their scrunchies. They have these adornments that almost build it [the look]. They are like their lucky charms.”

And now? They could be an on a regular basis wearer’s very personal fashionable talisman, too.

VALENTINO

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LUXURY

Irreverent or insane? A $76K sandal cut from real Birkin bags AUS art collective has ripped apart four Hermès Birkin bags in order to create what could be the world's most expensive sandal.

The Brooklyn-based group MSCHF, which has made headlines for its series of irreverent art projects, spent $122,500 in new Birkin bags -the luxury fashion item made famous by British singer and actress Jane Birkin -- to use as raw materials for the project.

The figure doesn't include the cost of the sandals' cork-latex sole, custom-made gold vermeil buckle and the actual production of the shoe -- the latter of which was challenging given the first handful of leather workers approached by MSCHF refused to participate. That reticence may be indicative of the bag's cult status -- a diamond-encrusted Birkin for instance has broken the record twice for the most expensive handbag ever sold at auction. First in 2016 for over $300,000 and again in 2017 for nearly $400,000.

The pair of so-called "Birkinstocks," which has no official affiliation to German shoe brand Birkenstock, are priced between $34,000 and $76,000.

"Just the act of cutting up a Birkin bag scared so many people," Lukas Bentel, MSCHF's creative director, said in a phone interview. "A Birkin bag is like an art object. It's so sacred, you can't damage it."

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LUXURY

MSCHF were fascinated by this fear, which goes beyond a respect for fashion and into economics. "Birkin bags have an average 14% annual return on investment," read a manifesto published on the project's website, "consistently beating the S&P 500" -- an index used to gauge the value of large-cap US equities.

"It's also something where to actually benefit from that value increase, you should not do anything with your Birkin bag, you should keep it in your apartment (and) in your closet," said Bentel.But adding value to items in counterintuitive ways is a specialty of MSCHF, who sold three six-foot-tall hand-painted replicas of US medical bills to a New York gallery for $73,360 last October. The money was used to pay off three participant's medical debts.

And they are no stranger to destruction -- especially when it comes to using expensive objects, as material for their works. In May 2020, the group purchased a $30,000 Damien Hirst print painting, and then cut and sold it in individual pieces, turning a profit.

The Hermès Birkin bag has enjoyed a steady rise in popularity ever since its creation in 1984. First flaunted on the arms of celebrities such as Kate Moss and Victoria Beckham (who reportedly owns 100 versions of the iconic bag, costing around $2mil in total), the Birkin bag is now a favourite of many US rappers.

Artists Saweetie, Cardi B, Drake, City Girls and Meek Mill have all made their penchant for the accessory clear through either Instagram posts or lyrics -- bypassing the fabled waiting lists and bringing a new demographic to the luxury signifier. There are fewer than ten Birkinstocks available to buy on a made-to-order basis. R&B singer-songwriter Kehlani and rapper Future were among the first to buy a pair before Monday's official drop, according to MSCHF. The assimilation of Birkin bags into hip-hop culture was important for MSCHF, who believe it's this multiplicity that makes them such compelling cultural objects. "Cardi B purchased a Birkin bag and all sudden it was trending on Twitter, and you're just like, why?" said Bentel, "But the symbol of the bag is just so powerful culturally, it's the perfect building block to make something even crazier."

CHANEL

STUART WEITZMAN

PER SEMPRE COUTURE

CASADEI

Construction Begins On MVRDV’s Geology-Inspired Mixed-Use Tower In San Francisco

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ARCHITECTURE

Construction work has begun on MVRDV’s geology-inspired mixed-use tower in San Francisco in the United States. Named Mission Rock, the 23-storey mixed-use building is being built in Mission Rock, San Francisco. MVRDV first released plans on October 2019 and the project is developed as one of four buildings in Phase 1 of a multi-phase masterplan developed by the San Francisco Giants and Tishman Speyer.

Designed as part of a collaborative design process, with four architecture firms with Studio Gang, Henning Larsen and WORKac, they are designing their plot in conversation with the other three offices alongside MVRDV within the masterplan. The Mission Rock masterplan turns 28 acres (11 hectares) of asphalt including a windswept parking lot into an exciting new neighbourhood and community gathering point for San Francisco residents and visitors.

The masterplan is an ensemble of mixed-use buildings that are tied together by public spaces that surround the buildings and continues through their ground floors, connecting them seamlessly to the projected China Basin Park. Developed as part of a public-private partnership established by the San Francisco Giants, Tishman Speyer and the Port of San Francisco, the masterplan aims to develop a mixed-use waterfront neighbourhood near Oracle Park.

MVRDV’s design projects onto the block a topography inspired by Californian landscapes, forming an ensemble of low and high-rise sharing a publicly accessible canyon-like space that provides a more intimate space within in the open harbouroriented masterplan. The block, called Building A, occupies a prime location, adjoining the “handshake plaza” that will greet visitors entering Mission Rock via the 3rd Street Bridge.

"Its internal, canyon-like street is an essential part of a sequence of public spaces, extending the landscape from China Basin Park through the building itself and into the heart of the Mission Rock masterplan, connecting the different plots," said MVRDV. "Undulating balconies extend all the way up the western façades of the 23-storey tower, and the many setbacks and overhangs on each level create terraces that add to the vibrant atmosphere of the pedestrian space."

The 395,000-square-foot (36,700 square meters) project includes a diverse collection of apartments and approximately 58,000 square feet (5,400 square meters) of office space with a private lobby and ground-floor retail.

Roof terraces complement internal amenities for the inhabitants, while the canyon is shared with people working in offices on the lower floors. Retails spaces and restaurants are placed at the ground level, aiming to create lively streets.

In order to reduce residences' reliance on cars in between homes, offices and retails, the studio converted a parking lot into a dense and mixed-use block with homes, offices, and retail. The building includes a partial basement that houses on-site bicycle parking, as well as supporting space for the efficient District Energy System. In the building’s external spaces, vegetation is the driving force.

The design includes ample greenery, not only in the canyon and on residential balconies, but also on the roofs of the project’s plinth level. These green spaces provide a variety of amenity spaces for the building’s inhabitants, enhancing user experience while creating ecological habitats for wildlife.

MVRDV collaborated with the San Francisco-based firm Perry Architects acting as executive architect, landscape architect GLS Landscape/Architecture, Magnusson Klemencic Associates as the structural engineer, and PAE Engineers as MEP engineer.

The 4 Rules of Natural-Looking Blush, According to Beyoncé’s Makeup Artist and More

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BEAUTY

Create a Dewy Canvas When it comes to getting HD camera-ready, all experts agree that smooth, hydrated skin is essential. Massaging in a moisturizer, or a hydrating primer if mattifying is a priority, is a non-negotiable first step. For “maximum hydration,” makeup artist Naoko Scintu recommends beginning with a sheet mask, such as the Dr. Jart+ Dermask Water Jet Vital Hydra Solution, as another option. But Sir John likes to take things a step further by pressing another layer of moisturizer onto the face after foundation, so the blush really vanishes into the skin. “The best time to apply blush is when the skin is still wet,” he explains. “The extra layer of hydration makes it softer.”

Choose a Smooth, Shade-Matched Formula “Use blush shades that are no more than two to three shades darker than your natural [flushed] tone, otherwise, you will find it difficult to blend,” says Scintu. For more dimension, he likes to use a darker hue on the inner cheeks, then graduate outward with a lighter complementary option. In terms of color, fair and cool complexions should look to more muted shades, like baby pink or peachy pink, while deeper, warmer complexions can go brighter. So long as the skin was prepped to be smooth and supple, when it comes to texture, a cream, like Glossier's Cloud Paint or Rare Beauty's Melting Cream, or liquid stain blush, such as Benefit’s Benetint Cheek & Lip Stain, tend to be best for a second-skin look.

Blend, and Blend Some More “I like to start in with cream blush on my fingers so you can really feel your cheeks, with an added bonus of creating a natural flush through circulation,” explains Soleimani, adding that she’ll use a small fluffy brush, like Shu Uemura’s Natural No. 18 Goat Brush, to blend the edges in a circular motion. After application, she suggests concealing the area around the sides of the nose to further diffuse discoloration. “It will help make you look like you’re naturally blushing, as opposed to blush sitting on top of your skin,” she says.

Finish With Luster Because cream highlighter takes blush to the next level, when Soleimani uses RMS Beauty Living Luminizer on the high planes of the face, she also infuses it with a skincare emollient, like Weleda Skin Food, for extra glow. Scintu blends Marc Jacobs’s Dew Drops Coconut Gel Highlighter on the cheekbones and down the bridge of the nose for a light-catching strobe. For a fresh, final layer that sets everything into place, Sir John mists on Caudalie’s Beauty Elixir, a cocktail of toning rose extract, rejuvenating rosemary oil, and hydrating orange flower water. “You want the skin to be as supple as possible,” he says. “It adds more luster.”

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

ALBINA DYLA

Over The Moon Makes It Easy to Curate a Stylish Yet Practical Wedding Registry

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LIFESTYLE

When Alexandra Macon decided to create a new registry feature for her wedding website, Over The Moon, there was one word that kept coming to mind: timeless.

Timeless, to the Vogue contributing editor, doesn’t mean expensive. Nor does it mean only home items bought by your mother, your grandmother, and maybe even your great-grandmother. “It’s brands that should be part of everyone’s life when they try to build a home together with someone,” Macon says. “We feel like that’s a mix of things —everything from niche artisanal items, to tried and true brands, to objects that can be passed down for generations.”

So, together with former Moda Operandi buyer Emilie Ghilaga—and the boutique design studio and digital agency Gadabout Creative—Over The Moon has created a platform that will help couples find brands that fit that chic-yet-classic criteria. Registry users can technically add a product from any e-commerce site to their registry. But Over The Moon is also there to give you stylish suggestions on which things, exactly, should be your everlasting asks. That could include anything from colorful Le Creuset Kitchenware, to Laguna B glasses, to Pomelo Casa plates and pitchers, and maternity clothes for those who are looking further into the future. “We wanted to share so many things we found from our own research that are beautiful and truly special,” Macon says.

Their hope? A registry experience that feels less sterile and more like you. Sure, picking out dish towels isn’t terribly exciting. But when those dish towels are monogrammable, made by a local artisan, and adorned with a playful white fringe, they may actually spark a bit of joy. (Plus, Macon and Ghilaga will also allow users to add non-home items to their list. Want a pair of earrings for your rehearsal dinner?

Want contributions towards a stay at the Hotel il Pellicano, the Italian honeymoon haunt of your dreams, rather than a blender? All possibilities with Over The Moon.)

You’ll also be able to customize your registry page with colors, illustrations, and images, making sure your personal style shines through.

Alongside the abundance of pretty things, the registry is also deeply practical.

There’s a thank you note tracker that helps organize what offering came from Uncle Mike versus Aunt Pam. Then, there's an option to convert gifts into cash. “Let’s say somebody gives you 10 plates. But then you actually don't want the plates because you're moving into a different house or an apartment, and they just don't work; you can turn those into funds and buy something else,” Macon explains.

After a (mostly) wedding-less year in 2020, late 2021 and 2022 promises a boom of Idos. And, for the betrothed, there’s now an easy and effortlessly chic way get organized as the big day finally approaches.

LENA BERISHA

Prepare your skin for makeup application with LUMINOUS SILK HYDRATING PRIMER.

Correct, unify and perfect your complexion with LUMINOUS SILK FOUNDATION.

Conceal, highlight or contour with LUMINOUS SILK MULTIPURPOSE GLOW CONCEALER.

Add a boost of radiance and color with FLUID SHEER. Finish with semi-matte LUMINOUS SILK GLOW FUSION POWDER to create your enduring Armani glow.

ARMANI BEAUTY

CHANEL BEAUTY

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