HOWLER C o s ta R i c a L i f e s t y l e , T r av e l & A d v e n t u r e
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World Cup Fever
Costa Rica in Russia: Do You Believe in Miracles? TEAM TICO: How will they fare? 4x4 AROUND ARENAL: Road to Castillo
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JUNE 2018
WORLD CUP PROFILE: Keylor Navas RINCÓN DE LA VIEJA : Cool Places
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F E AT U R E D Cover Story FAN FEVER
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KEYLOR NAVAS
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CR SOCCER HISTORY
18
World Cup Special
Costa Rica in the World Cup
World Cup Special
HERE COMES TEAM TICO World Cup Special
14 ROVING AROUND ARENAL Featured Adventure
20 HAUNTED HOSPITAL
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Off the Beaten Path
28
CO N T E N T S 6 Up Front 6 - Editorial 8 - Community Services 10 - Cover Story - World Cup Fever 14 - World Cup Special - Team Tico 16 - World Cup Special - Keylor Navas 18 - World Cup Special - 1899 Debut of Soccer in CR
RINCร N DE LA VIEJA
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POISON DREAMS
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Cool Places
20 Travel & Adventure 20 - Featured Adventure: Road to El Castillo 23 - Simply Spanish - On the Road 24 - Creature Feature: Oncilla 26 - Cool Places: Rincรณn de la Vieja 28 - Off the Beaten Path: Haunted Hospital 30 - Travel & Adventure Directory
Behind the Image
32 Arts & Entertainment 32 - Spotlight: Hidden Garden Art Gallery 34 - Arts & Entertainment Calendar 36 - Dos Locos: TTZ - A River Runs Through It
38 Lifestyle 38 - Behind the Image: Poison Dreams 40 - Fashion Flash: Where Sport Meets Fashion 42 - Wellness: Protect Your Hearing
46 Community 46 - Feature: Ironman Triathlon Returns to Coco 48 - Building CR: Wastewater - Septic Systems 50 - Pet Care: Good Reasons to Spay and Neuter 52 - Legal Ease: Corporations in Costa Rica 52 - Simple Spanish: Tico Sayings 54 - Community Directory
57 Dining Guide 69 - Contributors
IRONMAN RETURNS TO COCO
Community Feature
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EDITORIAL
HOWLER T r o o p
C
osta Rica is a draw not only for tourism and adventure travel but also for people wanting to relocate and live in a place of peace and beauty. The belief that paradise exists here can be as compelling as the notion of simply opening up your life to the gift of pura vida and receiving it automatically. Many who are similarly inspired to settle in Costa Rica encounter a more difficult reality. Paradise might still be attainable for each of us in our own way, but even our relatively tangible expectations for living the dream will seldom be met instantly or easily. I personally have had to fight for certain pura vida promises that proved false, including assurances of a property developer’s compliance with health, safety and environmental standards and regulations. Unfortunately, there was no more reason here than anywhere else in the world to believe every fast-talking salesperson was telling the truth, or that every word in a fancy marketing brochure was accurate. It’s a time for optimism and excitement in the booming beach area of Guanacaste. Plans for the new Flamingo Marina have the full green light, with the promise of opportunities for jobs, development and expansion in many sectors, along with higher property values. It’s a great time to be here witnessing the growth. Upgrades to local infrastructure include the recent addition of high-capacity water pipes to supply communities in the Tamarindo, Flamingo and Playa Grande areas. Road paving projects undertaken recently are significantly improving access throughout the same region. The short-term inconvenience of small traffic jams will be well worth it. Construction of new homes, commercial centers, a new movie theater and grocery stores provides further evidence of this upswing. As the area grows, responsible development is the key to ensuring healthy growth. It is important to keep in mind Costa Rica’s renown as a role model for environmental conservation and ecofriendliness. For tourists, investors and expat home buyers alike to perceive paradise in this ethical light is a selling point that carries weight. As noted earlier, what I learned from my own experience is that claims in a sales brochure about a company’s
June 2018 Vol. 23 No. 06 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF John B. Quam BUSINESS DEVELOpmENT Martin Svoboda M A N A G I N G PA R T N E R S John B. Quam Martin Svoboda D i r e c t o r o f O p e r at i o n s Marynes F. Chops
commitment to environmental protection are no guarantee of honesty or integrity. Actions portray a more accurate truth. As stewards of the environment, we all need to share responsibility for exposing truths that are being manipulated and misrepresented. If planning to become, or remain, part of a community, do all the research you can to be fully informed. The internet is a great source of information. Be knowledgeable about who you do business with. At the same time, never stop discovering for yourself why Costa Rica is becoming increasingly visible and desirable to the outside world as a place to visit and live. The resounding response of every tourist I ask about their reasons for coming here is the promise of adventure. Well, we do deliver on that promise, perhaps like nowhere else on earth. There is a place for all all of us here; each area is unique and special. Go out and visit as many local spots as you can and sample the traditional foods prepared by family members who own sodas. Keeping the perspective of guests in this country, and respecting the local ways of life, is how we get to know the real Costa Rica. The people are wonderful and welcoming; meet them and forge new friendships. Over the next few months, the Howler will feature articles about ecotourism, yoga retreats, culinary adventures, medical tourism, and investing and doing business in Costa Rica.
It’s a time for optimism and excitement in the booming beach area of Guanacaste.
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E d i t o r i a l S ta f f Debbie Bride - Production Director Marian Paniagua - Admin Director Karl Kahler - Staff Writer Jessie Rowen - Intern Graphic Design Team Martin Svoboda - Art Director Debbie Bride - Design Consultant M. Alauddin - Design Layout Marian Paniagua - Photo Procurement WEBMASTER Maria Focsa Cover Art Photo: Danilo Borges, Uruguay and Costa Rica match, FIFA World Cup, June 14, 2014 C o n ta c t John Quam: headmonkey@howlermag.com Martin Svoboda: martin@howlermag.com Editor: editor@howlermag.com Advertising: info@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 US Office: (720) 507-7596 (leave message) Facebook: Howler Magazine Costa Rica Twitter: @thehowlermag The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of The Howler organization or its advertisers. Copyright © 2018 by The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to: info@howlermag.com The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements
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ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS TAMARINDO | Waves of Sobriety Mon / Thur • 5:30 pm | Wed / Sat • 10:30 am Behind the Tamarindo circle, through Pedro´s Surf Shop Ellen 2653-0897 / 8484-1360 ellenzoe@aol.com Jacqueline 8332-5540 jacqueline.haskell@yahoo.com VILLARREAL (Español) |Vida Real Jose Chops 8720-1984
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If you have updated or additional information for useful numbers, please contact editor@howlermag.com or +506 4701-5942
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Fans on Fire by Karl Kahler
COVER STORY
As Costa Rica heads to Russia, true believers keep hope alive
Costa Rica has the best fútbol team in Central America, backed by a man who is among the best goalies in the world.
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S
creams of agony and ecstasy will erupt simultaneously in the early-morning hours all over Costa Rica. Productivity in the workplace will grind to a halt, and a mysterious illness may prompt thousands of people to call in sick. Grown men will give bear hugs to total strangers in front of big-screen TVs — if not sob tears of grief in their arms. Unless you’ve been adrift at sea for the last few months, you probably know that the Costa Rican soccer team is going to the World Cup in Russia this month, and people are a little bit excited. Costa Rica has the best fútbol team in
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Central America, backed by a man who is among the best goalies in the world. This will be the Ticos’ fifth visit to the World Cup, four years after they defied all expectations in Brazil by surviving to the quarterfinals. As luck would have it, their second match in Russia will be against powerhouse Brazil. The favorites to win it all in the 32-country tournament are defending champion Germany, followed by Brazil, Belgium, Portugal and Argentina. One oddsmaker in December gave Costa Rica a 1 in 250 chance of winning. But hope springs eternal.
Set your alarm Unfortunately for fans (and sports bars) in Tiquicia, the Ticos’ first two games will begin at 6 a.m. Costa Rica time. They play Serbia on June 17 in Samara, Russia, and then face Brazil on June 22 in St. Petersburg. (The game against Switzerland on June 27 in Nizhny Novgorod will be at noon Costa Rica time, so don’t be surprised if the entire country takes the world’s longest lunch break.) The timeline presents a problem for sports bars and other venues that would normally be packed wall-to-wall with screaming fans swilling beers. In most places it’s illegal to sell alcohol before 11 a.m., and many fans may be disinclined to toast their team with a cup of coffee or a glass of orange juice. (Maybe bring a flask?) Time zones were not a big problem four years ago, as most of Brazil is just three hours
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 11
ahead of Costa Rica. World Cup 2014 was a huge money-maker here for bars and big TVs. This year, probably not so much. But maybe it’s good practice for 2022 in Qatar, which is in the same time zone as Moscow.
Juan Carlos and Manfred already have paid around $5,000 each in fixed costs, and they’re looking at spending a total of about $10,000, “counting fiesta.” So what drives this kind of fandom?
‘Fan’ is short for ‘fanatic’
A lifelong passion
Two fans who will be going to Russia this month are Juan Carlos Ruiz, 40, and Manfred Robert, 43, of Playas del Coco — and they should be easy to spot in the stands in their red-white-andblue face and body paint. Juan Carlos said he learned to paint his body from a man who paints naked women (good work if you can get it). At the 2006 World Cup in Germany, Juan Carlos posed for a photo with former president Oscar Arias and got paint on the Nobel laureate’s fancy jacket. Juan Carlos and Manfred went to the World Cup in Brazil in 2014, and they’ll be spending three weeks in Russia this year with a group of 16 friends. In 2022, they say, they’ll be there for the World Cup in Qatar, too. “Brazil was madness,” said Manfred. “We were the Madonna.” “Costa Rica was the sensation of the World Cup,” said Juan Carlos, “because they beat the ‘Group of Death,’ against England, Italy and Uruguay — all world champions.”
“It’s a passion, since we were little, the passion for football,” said Manfred. “You live football since you’re little, in grade school, in high school, in the neighborhood. To play football all you need is a ball, and it can be made out of paper. So it’s a sport that is very, very popular here in Costa Rica.” The fútbol fans will be skipping the first game, with Serbia, but will be there to watch the Ticos play Brazil. “Sincerely and realistically, I predict an honorable loss,” said Juan Carlos. “We need to beat either Serbia or Switzerland, and at least tie with the other.” The pals will also be there for the game against Switzerland. If Costa Rica advances, they probably would play the winner of four-time world champion Germany vs. Mexico. Do you believe in miracles? “The experience of a World Cup is … it’s better than the Olympics,” said Manfred. “It’s like going to the Super Bowl, but every day for a month.” Manfred Robert and Juan Carlos Ruiz on their way to a World Cup 2014 match in Brazil. Photo: Juan Carlos Ruiz
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WOOD FIRED OVENS Now Available in Costa Rica
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Freestanding or built into existing construction. Same design concept used hundreds of years, but now improved with state of the art materials and perfected by science.
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For more information: Call Jim 2695-8567 (shop), Cel: 8887-7175 About the builder: Jim Aoki, a master builder from Alaska, “retired� in Costa Rica doing specialty construction projects. Started building wood fired ovens here in 2015. Bakes sourdough bread that he sells at the local Farmers Market in Guanacaste
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WORLD CUP SPECIAL
Team Tico by Elliott Almond
Above: Costa Rica's World Cup qualifing team, Sept. 5, 2017 at the National Stadium game against Mexico, tie 1-1. Costa Rica team entering the field before the World Cup game against England in Belo Horizonte, Brazil, June 24, 2014
What Are Their Chances?
SPOTLIGHT
We asked Elliott Almond, a sportswriter who covers soccer for California’s Bay Area News Group, to review Costa Rica’s past and present pursuit of World Cup glory. Elliott has been all over Costa Rica, is friends with Marcos Ureña, speaks pretty good Spanish and cheers in his heart when the Ticos are playing.
C It would be a mistake to underestimate Costa Rica, which is enjoying a golden age of talent. 14 | Read. like. share. | online
osta Rica had a promising World Cup finals debut in 1990 in Italy, where the Ticos defeated Scotland and Sweden to advance out of group play with Brazil. But Czechoslovakia eliminated Costa Rica 4-1 in the first stage of the knockout rounds. Costa Rica didn’t return to the tournament until 2002, where it again drew Brazil in group play. It lost to the South American powerhouse and drew against Turkey but was unable to advance. Four years later, the Ticos lost all three group games, including one with eventual champion Germany. The team failed to advance to the 2010 finals in South Africa. But everything fell into place at the 2014 World Cup in Brazil. No one gave Costa Rica a chance when drawing world champions Uruguay, Italy and England in 2014’s “Group of Death.” However, it won the group with victories over Uruguay and Italy and a scoreless draw against England. Costa Rica advanced to the quarterfinals, losing in a penalty shootout 4-3 to highly regarded Netherlands.
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Chances in Russia
It’s going to be difficult for No. 25-ranked Costa Rica to duplicate its stunning performance in Brazil four years ago. Few give the Ticos much chance of reaching the knockout rounds from Group E, where they will play Serbia, Brazil and Switzerland. “You never know,” said midfielder Anibal Godoy, who helped Panama qualify for its first World Cup finals. “They have so much experience for this World Cup. Now they have more confidence. Maybe if they play like last time it is possible to have something good for them.” No. 2 Brazil is a favorite to reach the championship game, whereas Switzerland enters the tournament ranked sixth. Yet Costa Rica could build momentum the way it did in 2014 with a victory in the opener June 17 against No. 35 Serbia in Samara, Russia. Then it might come down to the outcome of the Ticos’ final group game 10 days later, against Switzerland. But Oscar Ramirez’ team is also talented enough to hold its own against Brazil. Costa Rica, after all, finished second only to Mexico
in qualifying in the North and Central America and Caribbean region known as CONCACAF. It would be a mistake to underestimate Costa Rica, which is enjoying a golden age of talent similar to Mexico’s. It starts with captain Bryan Ruiz, a left-footed attacking midfielder who plays for Sporting CP in Portugal. The Ticos also have a worldclass goalkeeper in Keylor Navas, who plays for Spanish power Real Madrid. Versatile forward Joel Campbell is on loan from Arsenal to La Liga’s Real Bettis. Defender Bryan Oviedo plays at Sunderland in England. Costa Rican internationals also are highly valued in North America’s Major League Soccer, with such standouts as Kendall Waston (Vancouver Whitecaps), Marcos Ureña (Los Angeles FC), Ulises Segura (D.C. United) and Francisco Calvo (Minnesota United) dotting the rosters. Godoy, who plays for the MLS San Jose Earthquakes, said a strong World Cup showing allows a small country such as Costa Rica to develop talent because players get signed by more competitive foreign teams.
The scene in Russia
The 2018 World Cup is being held across 11 cities in the sprawling Russian Federation. Games will be played as far east as Yekaterinburg, as far west as Kaliningrad on the Baltic Sea, as far south as Sochi on the Black Sea and as far north as St. Petersburg. Each city will hold a soccer fan fest, a site outside the stadium for ticketless spectators to gather to enjoy the action on big-screen telecasts. Russian organizers created similar festivals around the 2014 Sochi Winter Games, but they were among the most soulless Olympics that I’ve experienced. Many people argue Russia is the wrong country to play host to the world’s most popular sporting event. They are concerned that the World Cup experience will be less than satisfying because of Russia’s destabilizing role in the global landscape, including its alleged meddling in the U.S. presidential election, its military alliance with Syria and its role in the government-sponsored sports and drug scandal.
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WORLD CUP SPECIAL
Keylor Navas of Real Madrid in action at the Copa del Rey match against UE Cornella on Oct. 29, 2014, in Barcelona. Real Madrid won 4-1.
KEYLOR NAVAS By Karl Kahler
PROFILE
Costa Rican Football’s Not-So-Secret Weapon
C
osta Rica has no shortage of national heroes: military martyr Juan Santamaría, army abolisher José Figueres, Nobel Peace Prize winner Oscar Arias, NASA astronaut Franklin Chang Díaz. But nowadays none is better known (or loved) than Keylor Navas, 31, the humble he-man who tends the net for Costa Rica’s national soccer team and for Spanish powerhouse Real Madrid. He is one of the very best goalkeepers in the world. Just when you thought Navas had few surprises left up his sleeve, on May 1 he pulled off eight — eight! — amazing saves for a 2-2 draw against Bayern Munich to lead Real to the Champion’s League final for the fourth time in five years. And this month, of course, he’s headed to Russia to represent the Ticos as they face Serbia,
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Brazil and Switzerland in Group E of the FIFA World Cup. Navas is no stranger to the 32-team championship, having astonished the soccer world four years ago in Brazil when competing in the “Group of Death,” facing world champions England, Italy and Uruguay. Incredibly, he allowed only one goal in three games as Costa Rica defeated Uruguay 3-1 and Italy 1-0, with a scoreless draw against England. Costa Rica went on to eliminate Greece 5-3 in a penalty shootout, advancing to the quarterfinals for the Keylor Navas celebrates with teammates after defeating first time in history. Manchester United 2-1 during The Ticos finally fell to the Super Cup final soccer the Netherlands 4-3 on match at Philip II Arena in penalties. But Navas was Skopje , Sept. 5, 2017 declared “Man of the Match” in both knockout games.
It was his stunning debut in the 2014 World Cup that cemented his reputation as among the best of the best.
Young Keylor
Navas was born in San Isidro de El General (also known as Pérez Zeledón) in 1986. His parents
migrated to the U.S. when he was young, leaving him in the care of his grandparents. Encouraged by his grandfather, Juan, who drove him to football practice in a rattletrap Toyota, Keylor was admitted to the club Escuela de Fútbol Pedregoso when he was 8. His coach spotted and groomed the boy’s talent, and he remained with the club until age 14. A few years later, he took the bus to San José to join Primera División power Deportivo Saprissa. Navas played in the goal for Saprissa from 2005 to 2010, helping the team win six Liga FPD titles and the 2005 CONCACAF Champions’ Cup. Navas was signed by Albacete Balompié of Spain’s Segunda División in 2010, and later was loaned to Levante UD. In March 2014, he was named La Liga’s Player of the Month, the first goalie to win the award. The same year, Real Madrid triggered his €10 million buyout clause and he signed a six-year contract with one of Europe’s most storied clubs. Many fans were
Playa Tamarindo Ocean View Parcel
Robert Davey
shocked when Madrid tried to trade him to Manchester United in 2015, but the deal fell through because the paperwork was submitted late. Navas continued to dazzle for a team that didn’t seem to want him. Real Madrid went on to win the 2015-16 UEFA Champion’s League title, with Navas setting a team record by not allowing a single goal in his first eight appearances. Representing his country, Navas played in two CONCACAF Gold Cup tournaments, and was named best goalkeeper in 2009, when Costa Rica reached the semifinals. But it was his stunning debut in the 2014 World Cup that cemented his reputation as among the best of the best. Now the world will be watching as he takes the field in Russia, and this time the world knows exactly who he is. Navas married his girlfriend, Andrea Salas, in 2009, and they have two children. He became a Spanish citizen in 2014. But you can bet the Ticos still claim him as 100% Costa Rican.
Navas tends the net in a Spanish League match against RCD Espanyol, May 17, 2015, Barcelona. Spanish Kings Cup match against UE Cornella, Oct. 29, 2014, Barcelona.
Villa La Sata, Flamingo Titled Ocean Front
Villa Alegre Langosta Ocean Front
Villa Amore, Playa Carrillo Hill Top, Ocean View
Casa Blanca, Flamingo Beach Front Jewel
Brian Bratton
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max.arata@ppcire.com Cel: 8407.1898
San José Office 2288-0483
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WORLD CUP SPECIAL
A 1950 match between Alajuelense and Boca Juniors at the National Stadium ended in a 1-1 tie.
by José Gerardo Suárez Monge and Karl Kahler
THE 1899 DEBUT of Soccer in Costa Rica
A passion for historical photos
P
CR HISTORY IN PICS
The old National Stadium, 1960.
T "It appears to be a distraction that is both hygienic and a good deal of fun." 18 | Read. like. share. | online
he game of soccer was apparently introduced to Costa Rica in 1899, judging from this news item on July 4 of that year in the newspaper La Opinión: "On Sunday we were witnessing [the game of Foot-Ball] in la Sabana, played by members of our educated society. It appears to be a distraction that is both hygienic and a good deal of fun. 'Very Well!' " (The last words were printed in English, apparently because the game came from English-speaking countries.) An update followed on July 6 in La Prensa Libre, noting the dangers that this game posed to passersby: "Good and convenient is the game of balls for children because it, more than anything,
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hotos are provided courtesy of José Gerardo Suárez Monge, author of “San José: 280 Years of History.” Suárez is a professional photographer and graphic designer with a degree in electrical engineering from the Tecnológico in Cartago, but his passion is collecting and analyzing historical photos — he has over 14,000. He has six books for sale, which are available at Librería Lehmann and the University of Costa Rica bookstore, or by calling 7062-3086 or 8794-7679.
develops their musculature and gives life to their organism. But to play these games some place should be found like the plazas or La Sabana, and not public streets where there are many passersby. We know that on Tuesday there were various people hit by these balls. The police should take care of this." The press went on to emphasize the dangerous threat to public order posed by this new-fangled game of kickball: "[Again] we refer to the police the groups of children that form in public streets to play ball, with the imminent danger to the noses of passersby; at the corner of La Granja it was impossible to pass; it is apparent that the children from those parts have left school
Costa Rica's new National Stadium in La Sabana Park, San José.
to attend the game; what big matches are played there." By August 1899 the press was noting the increased sophistication of these newbies to this sport: "[The game] of [foot-ball] that took place Sunday at la Sabana demonstrates that the sportsmen have become bigger fans of this entertainment and have more skill at this sport. [In English:] Oy yes, very well, all right. - God save the queen." One of the great differences between soccer and other sports of the time was that it leveled the playing field between the rich and the working class -- unlike, say, polo. It was a game that students from all over the country who attended the Liceo de Costa Rica,
the country's primary education center, could take back to their hometowns. This gradually turned futból into a national sport. On Christmas Day 1899, football got a boost when President Rafael Iglesias Castro attended a game between a Costa Rican and an English team, giving the game a new sense of legitimacy. (In case you're wondering, the English won.) Soccer, one correspondent argued at the time, was a more educated, civilized form of public entertainment than bullfighting or spectacles with barbaric masks accompanied by heavy consumption of alcohol. The sport took off, and Costa Rica never looked back.
Alajuelense welcomes Botafogo of Brazil in a 1957 match at the National Stadium. A game played in Barrio Mexico in the early 1920s, with President Julio Acosto García in attendance.
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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
Inset photo: We were not the first Land Rover on this road, as Castillo has this fine yard art. One of three river crossings on the road to El Castillo.
Story and Photos by Michael Rudd
Road to El Castillo FEATURED ADVENTURE
Exploring La ke Arenal’s Southern Shore by La nd Rover
M We shifted into 4-low and eased into the raging current.
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y wife, Breck, and I secured our paddleboards onto the roof rack of our Land Rover Defender 110, left Playas Del Coco and headed toward Laguna de Arenal via the Inter-American Highway. Two hours later we reached the turnoff at Cañas in our well-equipped rig, eager to head into the much cooler highlands. We had our Waze set for Tronadora, a small town on Arenal’s southern shore where we hoped to find paddleboard heaven. Over the years, we have paddled everything from surf breaks in Hawaii to high-altitude lakes in Colorado but had longed to SUP on Costa Rica’s largest lake, located beneath Volcán Arenal. We got out of our Land Rover, glanced at the washedout bridge on the road to El Castillo, and realized that getting there was all part of the adventure. We had set up the vehicle rental three weeks earlier, and when we landed in Liberia our Land Rover was waiting in the parking lot. We loaded up our gear and headed to the beach, only 25 minutes away. We rolled into Playas Del Coco and quickly found our reservation at Café De Playa, a hip boutique hotel, just in time for happy hour. The next morning we had breakfast at Soda Jardín Tropical, a local favorite, then hit the beach for some amazing paddle-boarding in the bay. After a couple of days in Coco we decided to head for
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a cooler climate and set our GPS for Laguna de Arenal, where we had planned to camp and paddle for the next few days. Costa Rica is a relatively small country, roughly the size of West Virginia. Even though it accounts for only 0.03 percent of the earth’s surface, it contains nearly 5 percent of the world’s biodiversity — more than 500,000 species in all. The varied terrain shifts between forests, valleys, mountains, volcanoes, plains and wetlands, making it one of the best places on the planet for exploration and adventure. Laguna de Arenal is rated one of the best windsurfing spots in the world, so we knew it would be a stretch to find calm waters for our SUPs. After studying a map of the lake, it was apparent that the southern shore near the volcano could offer the calmest waters. What we didn’t know then was that the road along the southern route was rugged, not well marked and frequently closed due to treacherous river crossings. We arrived in Tronadora, stopped to get our bearings and then headed east toward the small village of El Castillo, where we had planned to set up camp. A wrong turn set us back several hours as we found ourselves lost in the mountains heading toward Monteverde. We retraced our tracks from a cattle ranch high above the village of Río Chiquito and asked a local for directions. He
With our set-up, it was easy camping and paddleboarding on Laguna de Arenal. .
explained that the road was easily missed and pointed in the direction of what looked like a construction site. We turned onto the road and realized that the bridge had been washed out, hence all the heavy equipment. If we wanted to make it to our camp we had no other choice but to cross the river. We shifted into 4-low and eased into the raging current. Our approach was slow and steady and we made it to the other side with a sigh of relief. Back on track, we followed the
shoreline to the east and kept our sights set on the picture-perfect conical shape of Volcán Arenal. We stopped for lunch at a beautiful cove and took in the breathtaking scenery. As we enjoyed our snacks we noticed a few howler monkeys in the nearby trees and wondered if they would join us. After lunch we continued on toward our camp, which we guessed was roughly an hour away. We were surprised to find two more river crossings along the
track and noticed that they were flowing heavily. Luckily our Land Rover was well equipped with 33-inch BFG All Terrain T/A K02 tires and an ARB Safari snorkel. The final crossing appeared extremely deep and swift and we couldn’t clearly see the bottom. We decided that one of us should attempt to wade across using a wooden staff to gauge the depth. The water
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We took a wrong turn and ended up in the mountains above El Chiquito
line was just below the bottom of the door of the truck, so we decided it was safe to proceed as long as we took it easy. The Defender handled the river with no problem and we made it to the other side with success. As we continued along the lakeshore, we passed through some of the most beautiful and remote rainforest in Costa Rica. The trees were home to troops of howler monkeys and a beautiful array of bird species. We arrived at the tiny village of El Castillo just before dusk, deployed our GEO Adventure Gear rooftop tent and set up our camp on the edge of the lake. The two of us enjoyed our room with a volcano view and agreed that life was good! The next morning we awoke early to clear skies and calm waters, which we were certain was a gift from the volcano gods. Breakfast had to be put on hold, since we agreed that we should get on the water as soon as possible. Within minutes, our SUPs were fully inflated and our dream came true as we paddled across the glasslike Laguna de Arenal, with Volcán Arenal looming over us. The weather held out for most of the morning and we paddled to our hearts’ content. Afterwards, we devoured a well-deserved brunch and then paddled for another hour before the rain set in, forcing us to call it quits. We hung out in our rooftop tent for the remainder of the afternoon, fantasizing about our next paddleboarding trip ... possibly to the Golfo Dulce. We marked a date on the calendar and drifted off for a nap, despite the unsettling cries of the howler monkeys. Our adventure in Costa Rica exceeded our expectations. We explored remote backroads by 4x4, paddled the largest lake in the country and left with a deeper understanding of what the locals refer to as “pura vida” — pure life.
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SIMPLY SPANISH
COSTA RICA DINNER ADVENTURE Short Estuary Trip to Dinner at The Great Waltini’s in Bula Bula Hotel
On the Road aguja — “needle,” or a bar next to a guard house that stops cars from entering alto/siga — stop/proceed — signs commonly held up where roadwork is going on, usually helpfully colored in red or green carril — lane ceda/ceda el paso — yield right-of-way (used at onelane bridges and lanes that have to merge into traffic on highways) choque — crash contravía — going the wrong way on a one-way street derecha/derecho — “derecha” usually means right and “derecho” usually means straight, but just to torture Spanish learners, “derecho” also means right when applied to a masculine noun. “Toma el carril derecho, siga derecho, y luego gira a la derecha” — “Take the right lane, go straight, and then turn right.” metros — meters, the universal way of describing short distances. Remember that “100 metros” means one block, so one kilometer is roughly 10 blocks. muerto — “dead person,” a slang word for a speed bump (properly a “reductor,” or in some countries, “topes”) parquear — to park; more properly, in some countries, “estacionar” parqueo — parking lot peaje — tollbooth presa — traffic jam. “Vieras qué presa había en el centro hoy” — “You wouldn’t believe what a traffic jam there was downtown today.” ride — ride, as in “¿Quieres un ride?” — “Do you want a ride?” In some countries, this is called “un levantón” or “un aventón.” rotonda — roundabout, traffic circle rótulo — sign (often called a “letrero” in some countries) tránsito — traffic. You might expect “tráfico,” which is widely used in other countries to mean road traffic, but in Costa Rica “Tráfico” usually means the police who regulate traffic. “Hay mucho tránsito hoy en Escazú” — “There’s a lot of traffic today in Escazú.”
View crocodiles, birds, monkeys and more Tamarindo to Palm Beach Estates via boat Enjoy a delightful dinner Return via boat to Tamarindo SEE DINING GUIDE AD PAGE 83
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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
ONCILLA
CREATURE FEATURE
by Vern Veer
Secretive Feline is Rarely Spotted in the Wild These nimble cats are also very good swimmers.
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O
ncilla, often referred to as the little spotted cat, or in Costa Rica as the tigrillo, is the smallest species of wildcat in this country. Living in the mountain forests at altitudes above 4,900 feet, oncillas are rarely seen in the wild. Fortunately, this is not due to endangerment but rather to their secretive nature. Weighing between three and six pounds, oncillas have a tail that is slightly shorter than their body. Their stunning fur patterns vary from tan to ochre shades of yellow, sienna, red and umber. Dark rosettes cover the upper side of their coat while the underside is pale, with just a few spots. About one-fifth of these kitties are completely black. The oncilla’s beautiful fur has made it a target of excessive hunting in the past. Loss of habitat due to cultivation and human encroachment has also threatened the species’ survival. Being a very good climber enables the oncilla to spend part of its life arboreally. The tail is used for balance in moving across the treetops. These nimble cats are also very good swimmers. Oncillas are crepuscular and nocturnal, meaning active at twilight and night. As carnivores, they feast on birds, rodents, eggs, invertebrates
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and small primates. Consistent with their secretive behavior, oncillas are solitary and only interact with each other during mating season. They do vocalize, with sounds ranging from young males purring to adult males growling when they meet each other. Oncillas reach sexual maturity at about 2 years old, mating in spring and summer. Following a gestation period of about 10 weeks, females give birth to small litters of one to three kittens. The kittens are very vulnerable during the first two months of life. They open their eyes between eight and 17 days after birth, develop all their teeth at three weeks and then are ready for solid food at about 56 days. Life expectancy for oncillas in the wild is about 11 years, while captive cats have been known to live for 17 years. Again owing to oncillas’ secretive existence, the likelihood of spotting one in the wild is not very good. Fortunately, it is possible to view these beautiful creatures in one of the wildlife parks and refuges where many have a home in Costa Rica. Four places they live in the wild are Corcovado, Manuel Antonio and Chirripo National Parks, and La Amistad International Park.
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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
RINCÓN DE LA VIEJA by Karl Kahler
COOL PLACES
Thermal wonder offers some really hot attractions
A Rincón has been called Costa Rica’s Yellowstone.
26 | Read. like. share. | online
ccording to legend, a princess named Curubandá, daughter of the chief of the Curubandé tribe, fell in love with the son of the chief of a rival tribe named Mixcoac. Her father put an end to this forbidden love by throwing Mixcoac into the boiling crater of the largest volcano in Guanacaste. Desolate, the princess moved onto the slopes of the volcano and became a hermit. Living out her life alone, she learned about natural cures and became a healer, sought out by pilgrims with physical ailments. Thus the volcano became known as Rincón de la Vieja — meaning “corner of the old woman,” or perhaps “the hag’s lair.” Rincón has been called Costa Rica’s Yellowstone because of its geysers, boiling mud pots, fumaroles and hot springs. The 6,286-foot volcano is the centerpiece of Rincón de la Vieja National Park, which offers fascinating walking trails and beautiful waterfalls. The park is divided into two sectors, Santa María and Las Pailas (“the cauldrons”). Just 15 miles northeast of Liberia, Las Pailas offers an easy, shady, 2.5-mile loop trail where you can see lots of steaming volcanic features up close (but
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don’t get too close). If you’re feeling really energetic, take the 6-mile round-trip hike to La Cangreja Waterfall, a 130-foot beauty with a sky-blue pool below. Or if you’d like to see a really pretty cascada without the long hike, there’s the 82-foot Oropendola Waterfall, a short walk from the parking lot at the Las Pailas entrance. Either of these falls (and there are two others) is a great place to take a cool dip. This being Costa Rica, of course there are multiple resorts scattered around the volcano that offer all kinds of adventures. Among the best of these is the nearby Hacienda Guachipelín, a classy hotel (and a working horse and cattle ranch) with an adventure center that offers ziplining, canyoning, rock climbing, whitewater tubing, horseback riding, hot springs and mud baths. Most of the same adventures are on offer farther afield at Borinquen Mountain Resort & Spa, Buena Vista Lodge & Adventure Center, Cañon de la Vieja Lodge and Blue River Resort & Hot Springs. The latter has an amazing Dino Park with life-size animatronic dinosaurs (made in China) that move, grunt, snort and roar.
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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
Eerie graffiti covers the walls inside, like this ghostly face. Photos: Karl Kahler
OFF THE BEATEN PATH
by Karl Kahler
HAUNTED HOSPITAL Sanatorio Durán is Creepy Good Fun
If this place isn’t haunted, it should be.
Photo: Jessie Rowan
28 | Read. like. share. | online
I
t’s supposed to be the most haunted building in Costa Rica, and whether you’re a ghost hunter or a skeptic, I predict it will give you the goosebumps. Sanatorio Durán is an abandoned old hospital outside Cartago that was used to treat tuberculosis patients between 1918 and 1963. A lot of people died here, many of them children, and there are many creepy tales — and even videos! — of ghosts that still haunt its halls. We’re talking rotting buildings, broken windows, chipping paint, creaky floorboards, spooky stairwells and scary graffiti — in a place where many people took their last raspy breath. If this place isn’t haunted, it should be. But many people really believe it is haunted. There are longtime reports of an undead monk who visits in the night, of a phantom little girl spotted in the hallways and stairwells, of a ghost in the window of the chapel. In fact, the Discovery Channel’s “Ghost Hunters International” sent a camera crew here a few years ago, using super-duper ghostdetecting techniques, and they claim to have captured actual video of a dead girl sitting on some steps. (Judge for yourself at http://bit. ly/2BsZhSn and http://bit.ly/2nVcITB.)
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In places this complex is like a labyrinth, where it’s easy to get disoriented, unsure which way is out. The blue signs on the walls will not exactly alleviate your anxiety: “CHILDREN’S DORMITORY,” “ISOLATION WARD,” “OPERATING ROOM,” “MORGUE.” The sanatorium was founded in 1918 by Dr. Carlos Durán Cartín, a physician who served as president of Costa Rica from 1889 to 1890. Durán’s daughter had tuberculosis, for which there was no known treatment at the time, with a mortality rate of about 50 percent. Located on the road to Volcán Irazú, the hospital had space for 300 patients. It was believed that the altitude, temperature and humidity were ideal for treating this contagious disease — or maybe the healthy people just wanted to keep them far away. Scientists discovered effective treatments for tuberculosis by the 1950s, and Sanatorio Durán was shut down in 1963. Yet it was never demolished or repurposed, and so in the years since it has simply decayed. Today you’ll be charged a mere ₡1,200 to visit, and it’s well worth it — an easy day trip from San José. Just watch out for the rotten floorboards — and the ghosts.
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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY
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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
Through the Eye of the Artist by Charlene Golojuch
SPOTLIGHT
Best of Guanacaste Showcased
Local artists pay tribute to the region and its people.
Photos: Susan Adams
32 | Read. like. share. | online
G
uanacaste is an extraordinary province of Costa Rica, where the mangroves meet the oceans, and the jungles reach the sandy beaches. It’s a land full of lush biodiversity, where the local people have uniquely captivating folklore and traditions. When taking a scenic drive, you will see magnificent landscapes, encounter cattle or oxen working the fields, visit marketplaces and soak in the culture. Or perhaps you will go snorkeling or diving to experience the underwater world beneath us. Local artists pay tribute to the region and its people by painting and sculpting these many sights and scenes. Their flair and ability to capture the essence of the country allows viewers to embark on a journey through the artists’ eyes and souls. The magnificent splendor of this northwestern province of Costa Rica and its people naturally lends itself to a perfect harmony of colors on canvases, and many artists find a never-ending source of inspiration. But where are all these works of art? For many years, Guanacaste lacked a place to showcase the artists that capture this splendid land. However, in 2010, a fine art gallery opened just 5km from the Liberia airport. Today, the Hidden Garden Art Gallery is
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where the careers of professional, well-established and emerging artists are followed, and where students are provided an opportunity to experience visual arts, learn about art and artists, and increase their ability to express themselves creatively. “This is definitely a big change for the region, to have such a space dedicated to the arts,” said resident artist Carlos Hiller, whose career began with painting tranquil imagery of the dense rain forests and jungles of Costa Rica, then later plunged into the sea and marveled at the beauty of the Guanacaste waters. Now known for his captivating underwater scenes, Hiller was instrumental in founding the Hidden Garden Art Gallery, whose mission is to explore and expand culture and arts in Guanacaste. Whether it’s the tropical surroundings, the magnificent seaside sunset, or the characteristics of the Guanacastecan people you encounter, this stimulating region is waiting for you. With more than 60 local and international artists, the Hidden Garden Art Gallery embodies the best of Costa Rica, expressed through art. Stop in for a visit and enjoy the view! More info: www.HiddenGardenArt.com
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT M
Music
Events
T
ONDAYS
LUCY'S Happy hour, 4-6pm LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Club day pass, happy hour, 4-6pm CRAZY MONKEY Happy hour, 4-6pm $4 margaritas & daiquiris COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7 pm Margarita & tequila specials ZI LOUNGE Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm DJ, 9:30pm-2:30am
Food & Drink Specials
W
UESDAYS
EDNESDAYS
COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Karaoke night, 7:30pm Beer bucket $14 ZI LOUNGE Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm DJ, 9:30pm-2:30am MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: Margaritas and tacos—50% off tacos with margarita purchase LUCY'S 6/5 Cinco de Drinko-All-day fiesta Taco Tuesday - c500 tacos Happy hour, 4-6pm LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Club day pass, happy hour, 4-6pm Live music, 7-9pm CRAZY MONKEY Happy hour, 4-6pm $4 margaritas & daiquiris
TAMARINDO/LANGOSTA
Langosta Beach Club Beach Club, Restaurants and Bar All you need in one spot: restaurants, bar, beach access with ocean activities, spa and fitness center. The perfect place for a perfect day. Restaurants always open to the public, facilities require a day pass.
Happy Hours
MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: 1/2 price wine when paired with ceviche CRAZY MONKEY Happy hour, 4-6pm $4 margaritas & daiquiris LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Happy hour, 4-6pm LUCY'S Happy hour, 4-6pm 6/27 World Cup CR vs. Switz, 6am ZI LOUNGE Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm Live music, 6:30-9pm DJ, 9:30pm-2:30am COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Live music, Will Matthews
Karaoke
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HURSDAYS
ZI LOUNGE Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm Live music, 6:30-9pm Ladies’ night, 9:30-11pm COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Vodka lemonade specials LUCY'S Happy hour, 4-6pm 6/14 Trivia Night, 7pm 6/21 Summer Solstice Party MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: Loco Thursday, 10% off all food and beverages CRAZY MONKEY Happy hour, 4-6pm $4 margaritas & daiquiris LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Sunset music, 5-7pm Happy hour, 4-6pm
House whiskey specials, 6:30pm
TAMARINDO
CRAZY MONKEY RESTOBAR Bar, Restaurant & Night Club Boasting spectacular ocean views, great pizza, a huge pool, waterfall and a swimup bar. Great for groups and birthdays! Inside the Best Western Tamarindo Vista Villas Daily, 7am-2am 2653-0114 ayd@tamarindovistavillas.com CrazyMonkeyBarTamarindo
Beachfront, 400m from Pacific Park Daily, 9am-10pm 2653-1127 / 8372-7244 info@langostabeachclub.com langostabeachclub.com Daily: Happy hour, 4-6pm, Daily: Happy hour, 4-6pm, 50% off selection $4 margaritas and daiquiris Day pass for all facilities 9am-6pm Fri: Our famous ladies’ night, live salsa Tue: Live music, 7-9pm music and DJ free drinks at 9pm Thu: Sunset music, 5-7pm Sat: All you can eat pizza and salad Fri: Live music, 7-9pm $10+tax per person, 5-9pm Sun: Live DJ, 2pm-sunset Sun: Afternoon pool party, noon-6pm Activities: Pool, spa, beach, kayak, surf, 34 paddleboard | Read. like. share. | online howlermag.com
BRASILITO
Lucy's Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant Beachfront restaurant and bar originally from New Orleans and famous for our frozen drinks and coastal fusion dishes Free Margarita Main corner, Brasilito Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight mention HOWLER Sat-Sun, 10am-midnight password: Copa Mundial 8688-0651 costarica@lucysretiredsurfers.com Daily: Happy hour 4-6pm Tue: Taco Tuesday, c500 tacos all day, 1/2 off Margs Events: 6/5 Cinco de Drinko 6/9 Salsa Night ¡ayayay! 7-8pm $10 lesson + margarita 6/14 Trivia Night w/ Abriendo Mentes @ 7pm 6/17 WORLD CUP vs. Serbia @ 6am 6/17 Father's Day - Free whiskey sour for dads! 6/22 WORLD CUP vs. Brazil @ 6am 6/21 Summer Solstice Party 6/27 WORLD CUP vs. Switzerland @ 12pm
CALENDAR F
A weekly glance for the month
RIDAYS
WIL-MART
Jam Session, 9pm-late LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Live music, 7-9, happy hour, 4-6 MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: Wings & brews, a free beer with your order of wings CRAZY MONKEY Happy hour, 4-6pm $4 margaritas & daiquiris Ladies’ night, live salsa music DJ, free drinks at 9pm LUCY'S Happy hour, 4-6pm 6/22 World Cup CR vs. Brazil, 6am COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Live music, bucket of 6 beers, $14 ZI LOUNGE Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm
S
ATURDAYS
ZI LOUNGE Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm Live music, Charly Lopez, 6:30-9 COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Live music, Flor de Caña and chiliguaro special CRAZY MONKEY All you can eat pizza & salad $10+ tax per person, 5-9pm MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: Sangria Saturday 4 sangrias for the price of 3 LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Happy hour, 4-6pm LUCY'S Happy hour, 4-6pm 6/9 Salsa Night ¡ayayay!- $10 lesson & margarita 7-8pm
MARINER INN Hotel, Bar & Restaurant Across the bridge in Flamingo Tue-Sun 4pm-10pm, closed Mon 2654-4156 themarinerinn@gmail.com marinerinn.com themarinerinn Daily: Tue: Wed:
Happy hour 4-6pm Margs & Tacos 50% off tacos with margarita 1/2 priced wine when paired with ceviche Thu: Loco Thursday - 10% off food and beverages Fri: Wings & Brews - get a free beer with your order of wings Sat: Sangria Sat - 4 sangrias for the price of 3 Sun: $20 chef’s special & glass of wine
UNDAYS
CRAZY MONKEY Afternoon pool party, noon-6 MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: $20 chef’s special with a glass of wine LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Live DJ 2-sunset, happy hour 4-6 LUCY'S Happy hour, 4-6pm 6/17 World Cup CR vs. Serbia, 6am 6/17 Father's Day Free wiskey sour for dads! COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Sports all day ZI LOUNGE Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm
Live music, Latin Trio, 6:30-9pm
FLAMINGO
S
PLAYAS DEL COCO
COCONUTZ Restaurant & Bar The iconic bar of Coco Beach. Always cold beer, entertainment, sports and good food. Avenida Central, across from El Coco Casino Mon-Thu, 11am till late Fri-Sun, 9am till late 2670-1982 pete@coconutzbar.com coconutzbar.com Daily: Happy hour until 7pm; all TV Sports Mon: Margarita & tequila specials Tue: Karaoke, 7:30, bucket of 6 beers, $14 Wed: Live music with Will Matthews, 6:30pm, house whiskey specials Thu: Vodka lemonade specials Fri: Live music, bucket of 6 beers, $14 Sat: Live music, Flor de Caña and chiliguaro specials Sun: Sports, all day
Meet Me at
Lucy’s!
MAIN CORNER, BRASILITO
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PLAYAS DEL COCO
ZI LOUNGE Restaurant and Sports Bar Food, drink, entertainment and the longest happy hour in town. Avenida Central, 200m from beach Daily, 11am-2:30am 2670-1978 info@zilounge.com Zi.Lounge Daily: Happy hour, 11am-7pm DJ, 9:30pm-2:30am Tue: DJ, 9:30pm-2:30am Wed: Live music, 6:30-9pm Thu: Live music, 6:30-9pm Ladies’ night, 9:30-11pm Fri: Live music, 6:30-9pm Sat: Live music, 6:30-9pm
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
TTZ (T
ico Time Zone)
DOSLOCOS
A River Runs Through It
M
y latest TTZ adventure occurred this past Christmas Eve. I was with my new partner, Ben, in Lagarto Beach, a local fishing town about halfway down the Nicoya Peninsula, famous for fresh snapper and cambute (conch). While watching the beautiful sunset, we spotted a local fishing boat come in with the catch of the day — snapper galore. We picked out a few choice fish and headed to the bar for a cold one. Once we got our Silvers, a local kid named Harold came up and we got to talking about cambute. I had only tried it once and really wanted to prepare some for Christmas dinner. Harold said his neighbors has caught some fresh cambute that day and he would take us to their house to get one for dinner. Ben is always game for anything, so we told Harold, “Let’s do it” and headed out for what we thought was a quick ride to get the goods. Little did we know it was to be a full-blown rescue mission taking us into Christmas Day. Anyone who’s been south of Playa Negra knows that the dirt roads can be sketchy to drive on, especially when you are off the beaten path. Well, within 10 minutes, we were headed down a winding, twisting off-road course and it was getting dark to boot. Harold instructed Ben to take a left into the riverbed, and that was when I started getting nervous. Ben was practicing his all-Spanish listening and talking skills, and I realized too late that when Harold said, “Zig,” Ben zagged instead … off course and into some soft sand. The Pathfinder started sinking immediately, and things were about to get more interesting.
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Ben decided to slam into reverse, causing us to sink even deeper and skid to the left. We started taking on water and I heard the muffler burbling in the river. We jumped out of the vehicle, only to see it half submerged in the sand. Harold reassured us the way any Tico would in a situation like this: “No problema, lo sacamos pronto,” which means, “Don’t panic, we’ll get it out lickety-split.” I knew we were in for a long night.
We started taking on water and I heard the muffler burbling in the river. Harold went off seeking a rescue crew, while I proceeded to dig out the back tires with my hands. I had to hold my breath and go around the muffler and excavate in the flowing river water. It was tricky, to say the least. To Harold’s credit, he did return with a truck and some rope. We attached the rope and tried to give it a pull, but only ended up spinning the wheels. On the second try, the rope snapped and left us just as deep in trouble. News had spread throughout the neighborhood and a bunch of locals and kids came down to witness the gringos’ ordeal. It was a classic Tico Time Zone situation. We struggled for another hour or so, only to break the rope all over again
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by Johnny Lahoud
… even with a bunch of guys pushing from the front. By this time, Ben had lost interest and wanted to go home, take a shower and hit the party at the beach. He proposed leaving the vehicle running all night and coming back in the morning. I felt bad about still wanting the damn cambute and told Ben I refused to leave the car. He responded by wishing me good luck and jumping into our buddies’ truck. So bye-bye, Ben. Now I was just as determined not to give up, and figured there must be a backhoe or tractor in the barrio. So I asked Harold and he finally agreed — at, like, 11 p.m. — to take me to the local tractor guy. We got there, woke up the tractor guy and I told him he was our only hope. He was reluctant, even when I offered money. So I suggested he might rather come down now than have us come back to summon him on Christmas Day! He finally agreed. Again, word had spread further and our rescuer ended up bringing his whole family down to the river alongside the tractor to see what the tonto gringos had gotten themselves into. Thank God, he had a chain. It still took an hour of maneuvering, but we finally managed to pull out the Pathfinder … still running and good to go! So I headed back down to the beach for the local party at Marbella. When I pulled up with the car, Ben started freaking out with amazement and laughter. He was stoked and learned the lesson of “tingo perseverance.” Now, anytime we find ourselves in a new jam, we say, “Nobody panic” and start the process of figuring out a Tico Time Zone solution.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 37
BEHIND THE IMAGE
LIFESTYLE
POISON DREAMS Everything except my little frog subject would be out of focus. Perfect!
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The scene
F
lash often gets a bad reputation in nature photography. That’s unfortunate. Employed properly and responsibly, flash can look completely natural and help any photographer get the shot when the natural light is less than ideal, all without harming the subject. Indeed, flash saved the day for me with these shots of a tiny strawberry poison frog (oophaga pumilio) in
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by Gregory Basco
a Costa Rican rain forest a few years ago. Strawberry poison frogs are members of the poison arrow/dart frog family. They have toxins in their skin and often sport bright colors to warn predators of their toxicity (scientists call this aposematism). These frogs are a little over an inch long and are diurnal, spending their time on the forest floor in search of fruit flies and ants, the latter of which provide the frogs’ toxin ingredients.
Camera settings While most macro-photographs are taken with small apertures to maximize depth of field, I wanted to do the opposite here to produce a dreamy effect. While shooting in manual mode on my camera, I selected f/4.5. Everything except my little frog subject would be out of focus. Perfect! On a sunny day in the rain forest, dappled light is almost always the rule. In this case, the sun was hitting some green leaves just behind the frog, but the frog and the mushrooms were in relative shadow. The difference between light and dark in such a situation is too much for even the most modern pro cameras. I chose to expose my background properly. This meant that my background looked great, but the frog and mushrooms were way too dark. Landscape photographers are familiar with this type of lighting challenge (for example, bright skies and dark foregrounds at sunset on the beach) and solve it by using HDR or blending different exposures in the computer. But wildlife photographers can’t use these solutions because their subjects are moving. If I tried to combine multiple shots, my frog would likely have moved just a bit between pictures. Flash, by necessity, became the obvious answer. I want to make the flash look natural, but flash aimed directly at a subject — be it a person or a frog — rarely looks good. That’s why I always have a small softbox and radio flash transmitters and receivers in my bag. These gadgets allowed me to move my flash off-camera and soften its light. I held the camera in my right hand and flash with my left hand. The very
natural-looking result comes from getting the flash off-axis and diffusing it.
Composition I took a number of different compositions, both horizontal and vertical. I shot each image to my liking, but also had in mind magazine covers in double-page spreads. It’s always good to envision different uses you might have for a photograph. Holding the camera with one hand and the flash with the other can make composing difficult. But supporting my camera hand with my elbow and choosing an autofocus point covering the frog’s eye, made my job a lot easier. The battery grip on my camera also allowed me to shoot much more comfortably in vertical orientation. That said, it’s very helpful to bring a friend along with you to hold the flash.
At the computer I use Adobe Lightroom for the vast majority of my processing, and these images were no exception. A few simple tools enabled me to get the highlights and shadows just right and also to slightly adjust the colors so they look as natural as possible. This is standard practice for any photo, and processing took no more than a couple of minutes.
The lesson Envisioning the type of photo you want to create, rather than simply shooting a subject, is what takes your photos from snapshots to artistic imagery. Flash can assist you by helping solve exposure problems in the field when natural light can’t provide what you want. Flash can be a great tool for helping realize your creative vision!
Exposing the background properly under natural lighting conditions had good results for the image background, but without using flash, the frog and mushrooms were way too dark.
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 39
LIFESTYLE
Where Sport Meets Fashion
This was the first time a highfashion designer worked with a sportswear company.
FASHIONFLASH
by Patricia Sterman
T
he place where sport meets fashion is a two-way street. Believe it or not, there’s a word for it: “sportsanista,” naturally, means a fashionista who loves sports. This trend can be defined simply as comfortable clothes for a fashion market. It blends sweatshirts with high heels and sweatpants with silky shirts. People are seeking clothes that take them all around the city in style … no hassle to make meetings on time and easy to pack for traveling. Athlete’s wear is no longer a stereotype for the stay-at-home lazy look but now a hallmark of successful business people. In dual-track terms, we are seeing sport brands hiring famous fashion designers, and fashion brands becoming more athletic-oriented. This new look has invaded our wardrobes, creating a high demand for high-end sportswear. Technology has become an important factor with the incorporation of lightweight fabrics and super-soft textures. Adidas was ahead of the pack, launching its first fashion collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto back in 2003. This
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was the first time a high-fashion designer worked with a sportswear company, breaking down the walls between the two target markets. An athletic collaboration allows designers to capture an ever-growing consumer sector: athleisure, which Wikipedia defines as a fashion trend wherein “clothing designed for workouts and other athletic activities is worn in other settings, such as at the workplace, at school, or at other casual or social occasions.” Sportsanistas have also followed with interest an overlapping upturn in consumer demand for wellness services and products overall, including those related to beauty and fitness. A landmark Global Wellness Institute study in 2014 revealed that the wellness market worldwide was worth $3.4 trillion, making it nearly three times larger than the $1 trillion pharmaceutical industry.
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 41
LIFESTYLE
Protect Your Hearing WELLNESS
by Dr. Herbert Weinman
I
s your TV constantly blasting? Is your average day filled with sounds of jackhammers, lawn mowers, lumbering trucks, rock music blaring through stereo headphones or other intrusive environmental noises? If so, your hearing is at risk. Today’s world poses many dangers to hearing, but protection is available. The human ear is one of the most complex and delicate organs ever devised by nature. It contains three chambers: outer, middle and inner. The outer ear, the appendage on the side of the head, focuses sound and contains the opening of the ear canal, a shaft measuring from one-half inch to one inch long, sealed at one end by the eardrum. The eardrum is a piece of tissue in the shape of a flattened cone, its apex facing inward. It attaches to a tiny ring of bone. The middle and inner ear are kept at a constant temperature by the shape of the ear canal and its lining of fine hairs and wax-secreting glands. The middle ear and its three tiny bones transmit sound waves to the inner ear, which is where microscopic hair cells with delicate nerve endings convert vibrations into electrical signals. The brain requires those signals to give meaning to sounds. Intense and sustained noise overload and can kill those tiny hair cells in the inner ear. This can occur suddenly as in an explosion, or gradually with repeated exposure to loud noise such as that
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experienced through ear-amplifying devices. Reducing exposure to loud noise is the key to conserving your hearing power. Noise overload is so pervasive in our society that no one knows for sure how
Less than two hours of exposure to the sound of rock music, jet planes, gunfire and automatic drills can cause hearing loss. much of the so-called “normal” hearing loss associated with aging is actually caused by harmful environmental sounds. The risk from exposure can start in the teen years or even earlier. Sound with an intensity of 80 decibels, such as heavy traffic, office machines or noisy restaurants, can adversely affect hearing. Alarm clocks closer than two feet away, and daily exposure to factory noises for eight hours or longer, can also cause harm. Damage can occur in less than eight hours with repeated exposure to noisy home appliances, shop tools and lawn mowers. Less than two hours of exposure to the sound of rock music, jet planes, gunfire and automatic drills can cause hearing loss.
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THE DOCTOR IS IN
Earplugs or earmuffs are the best way to protect your ears. Earmuffs reduce the intensity of machine sounds such as from chainsaws and power lawn mowers by 30 percent. They have the disadvantage of being large, bulky and uncomfortable in warm weather, and may not fit correctly if you wear glasses or a hearing aid. Earplugs and seals also offer hearing protection in a more comfortable manner. One of the best ways to protect against noise damage is to stay consciously aware of hearing loss threats at all times. Adjust audio devices to lower volumes, and whenever possible, space out the time intervals when your ears will be exposed to sources of dangerous noise levels.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 43
COMMUNITY
by Karl Kahler
Ironman Triathlon Returns to Coco The 2017 women's winner, Leanda Cave of Louth, UK
COMMUNITY FEATURE
I
Roughly half the competitors will be Costa Ricans. 46 | Read. like. share. | online
f you’re feeling in the mood to swim a mile, bike 56 and run 13, it’s not too late to register for the Ironman 70.3 half-triathlon in Costa Rica, taking place June 24 in Playas del Coco for the second year in a row. “I’m looking forward to having another great event,” said Wilber Anderson, the Costa Rican founder and CEO of Miami Tri Events, an Ironman licensee that organizes triathlons in Latin America and the Caribbean, which will be handing out $15,000 in prizes to the first five finishers. The race attracted a capacity field of roughly 2,000 athletes last year, Anderson said, and he’s hoping to see the same interest this year. Top finishers have a chance to qualify for the Ironman 70.3 world championship in November in Nelson Mandela Bay, South Africa. The “70.3” stands for the number of miles: 1.2 swimming, 56 biking and 13.1 running, in that order. Racers start at the central beach in Coco, in front of the Paseo Amor de Temporada, and swim a big triangle in Coco Bay. There’ll be a big corral that will release 18 to 20 waves of 120-125 people every four minutes,
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based on their age, Anderson said. There will be 32 lifeguards, three jet skis, four boats and four scuba divers on hand if needed. (This triathlon costs upwards of $500,000 to stage, he said.) The soccer field in downtown Coco will be a transition area where up to 2,000 bicycles will be stored. Competitors bike down the main street and up the big hill outside Coco, all the way to Sardinal and San Blas, and they have to do this loop twice. Then they return the bike to the transition area, put on their running shoes and head out for a 13.1-mile half-marathon, in part through the La Chorrera residential area, again with a couple of loops. The finish line is right on the Paseo Amor de Temporada, the walkway along the main beach in Coco.
So how was Coco chosen for this event? Anderson is from Alajuela, he’s been swimming since he was 8, and he got hooked on triathlons around the age of 17. He started Miami Tri Events close to 20 years ago and organized the first Miami triathlon. Four years later, he said, he was running the largest Ironman in the world, in Miami, with 3,500 racers. To do a triathlon in Costa Rica, Anderson said, required close access to an international airport, enough hotels to house all the competitors, a gigantic swimming pool like Coco Bay, and terrain that was scenic and challenging but not too mountainous for the biking and the running. Playas del Coco passed all these tests in flying colors, and the 2017 event was a big success. “The temperature is a little tough because of the humidity,” he allowed. But hey, if you wanted to stay in your air-conditioned hotel room all day watching TV, you probably wouldn’t be a triathlete. Roughly half the competitors will be Costa Ricans, Anderson said, and the other half from all over the world — 42 countries were represented
last year. Some of the main countries represented this year so far are Costa Rica, the United States, Mexico, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Chile, Panama, Colombia, Honduras and Argentina, plus Hungary, the Virgin Islands, Barbados, Bermuda and Brazil. Last year the event pledged to donate money to build a footbridge between the Paseo Amor de Temporada and points north, but organizers were unable to obtain the permits because the bridge would have crossed a stream emerging from a mangrove. “I’m going to go ahead and continue supporting the community through schools,” Anderson said. “Last year we donated sporting equipment, balls for football and all kinds of sports equipment. And we’re going to donate books and pens and other items that kids need at school.” The action gets underway at 6:15 a.m. on Sunday, June 24. There will also be an expo June 22-24 in the Pacifico Retail Village behind Hard Rock Café offering all kinds of sports and nutrition equipment and souvenirs.
Photos courtesy of Miami Tri Events
COMMUNITY
Part 1: Septic Systems
BUILDING COSTA RICA
by Jarryd Jackson
What to Do With Wastewater A s mentioned in my June 2017 Howler article about plumbing, septic systems play an important role in the treatment, recycling and reuse of wastewater from Costa Rican homes. Many residents here have experienced backed-up septic systems during the rainy season. It’s a very common problem with older systems, most of which are poorly designed and built. More recent options have become available in Costa Rica for treating and reusing wastewater, rather than just disposing of it. What all of these systems have in common is a mechanism for breaking down the organic matter found in wastewater, making it very important to prevent the introduction of harmful and toxic chemicals, soaps and detergents. Wastewater can be categorized into two groups: black water and gray water. Black water comes from your toilet. It contains coliform bacteria and therefore must go into a septic or water treatment system. Gray water comes from sinks, showers and washing machines. The lack of coliform bacteria means it can be separated and reused or sent elsewhere. Since there is no sewer system connected to a public water treatment plant in Guanacaste, every individual property in the area needs its own wastewater treatment system. Typically, these are standard septic systems with an associated drainage field. The system is designed to separate sludge — objects and solids that sink to the bottom — and floating debris such as oil and grease. These remain in the first tank, while water from the middle of the tank passes through the plumbing into the second tank. The second tank
is basically a holding tank for the cleaner water, which then passes slowly into the drainage field. The drainage field should be relatively long and about 6 feet deep. It’s filled with porous materials such as rock, sand or debris that allows the water to percolate into the soil. Eventually this water makes it into the water table below, which is why a correctly designed system is essential to ensure the breakdown of coliform and other bacteria. The importance of proper capacity and construction of septic drain fields cannot be overemphasized, with septic system backup being a fairly common problem here. Every year or two during rainy season, septic system backups prevent toilets, sinks and showers from draining. There is often a foul smell, and promptly a truck is called to drain the tank. In almost all instances, the cause is a saturated drain field. Either the soil itself has flooded and can no longer drain, or the drainage basin is not big enough and cannot handle the load of water being dispersed into it. If this is an ongoing problem, the usual recommendation is to install a new drain field, likely much bigger the the current one. Almost in all instances, the septic tank itself is fine, but the drain field is undersized or incorrectly built. The next Howler article will discuss alternatives to a septic system, including cheap and easy ways to recycle gray water at home. We’ll also look at more expensive systems for cleaning and treating both gray and black water for use in gardens and irrigation, potentially saving thousands of gallons of water a month.
The importance of proper capacity and construction of septic drain fields cannot be overemphasized.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 49
COMMUNITY
Good Reasons to Spay and Neuter PET CARE
By Dr. Gilberth Cavallini
P
reventing unwanted litters of puppies or kittens is not the only reason it’s advisable to have your pet spayed or neutered. Improved awareness of the health benefits makes it a relatively undisputed decision among responsible pet owners nowadays, but this wasn’t always the case. When we started our veterinary practice in Tamarindo 11 years ago, dogs were not commonly sterilized and overpopulation of strays was the sad result. The same was true of cats, which seemed to be regarded more like a pest than a pet. Fortunately, the efforts of animal welfare pioneers in organizing and promoting spay and neuter campaigns in the area have been fruitful. Sterilization surgery has become a commonly sought procedure at veterinary clinics, and not as many homeless animals are seen roaming around. Most of the pets brought here by expat owners are spayed or neutered, and it’s a prerequisite for pets being adopted at rescue centers here. Spayed and neutered animals are less susceptible to cancer of the reproductive organs and other illnesses. Reduction of hormone-related behavior problems is another important advantage. As emphasized in my March 2018 Howler article, a key goal of spay and neuter campaigns in the Guanacaste area is to minimize the spread of venereal transmissible tumors (TVTs). This is a
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significant health threat to unaltered dogs of both genders, and not exclusive to the stray population. Although infected dogs are typically homeless, TVTs can also be spread to our pets when they have free access to streets or beaches.
We suggest waiting until male dogs and cats are fully grown before neutering. Concerns about weight gain being a consequence of having your pet sterilized are often unwarranted. It’s not unusual for dogs and cats of either gender to gain weight after surgery, nor is it worrisome enough to be a deterrent. Weight gain may occur for other reasons relating to diet and exercise, and is seen less frequently in animals sterilized at a young age. Based on our experience, we suggest waiting until male dogs and cats are fully grown before neutering, usually around 10 to 12 months of age. This allows for the proper development of organs and muscle mass, and adequate testosterone levels necessary for overall growth. Even when a young cat has started urinating everywhere as a territorial marking behavior, which often prompts owners to request neutering surgery, he might still
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need more time for proper development. Neutering diminishes fighting and other aggressive or territorial behaviors in male dogs and cats. This reduces the risk of injury and infection through biting and scratching. In the absence of any breeding intentions, spaying is the best choice for female puppies and kittens, with no need to wait for the first heat cycle. In fact, we suggest doing the surgery as soon as her vaccination protocol is finished — right after the rabies shot at four months of age. Unsterilized females have a higher probability of future tumors in their reproductive organs and mammary glands. This is due to hormonal changes associated with heat cycles or even pseudopregnancy, a psychological condition that can induce milk production and nesting behaviors in a female dog or cat that is not actually pregnant. When pregnancy does occur, there can be prenatal, postnatal or delivery complications that put the mother and babies in her litter at risk. Having the odds of neglect, suffering and euthanasia stacked against unwanted puppies and kittens may still be the most compelling rationale for sterilization surgery. But the other assurances it offers of your pet’s well-being should not be overlooked.
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COMMUNITY
SIMPLY SPANISH
Tico Sayings al tarantantán — without even thinking about it. Se casaron al tarantantán — “They got married without even thinking about it.”
by Ivan Granados
LEGAL EASE
Corporations in Costa Rica
U
nderstanding the person of legal age. The capital advantages of setting up a stocks of an SA corporation corporation in Costa Rica are called shares. They can be is important when contemplating transferred through endorsement the relatively unrestricted of the share certificates and opportunities for foreign business proper entry in the shareholder or property owners. Purchasing registry. Shareholders may property through a Costa Rican transfer their interest to a third corporation, for example, may party freely unless otherwise not be a requirement in some stated in the SA articles of circumstances, but it’s still incorporation or bylaws. advisable in the interest of The SRL does not have a flexibility and liability protection. board of directors. Therefore, Furthermore, corporate it could be governed by only ownership of a one individual Seek advice from a property allows (manager), for proper estate Costa Rican attorney making it and tax planning, beforehand. relatively easy and enables and simple. property owners to grant a special The capital stocks of an SRL power of attorney to act in their corporation are called quotas. absence. They are transferred through The two primary types of an assignment agreement and corporate entities in Costa Rica proper entry in the quota holder are Sociedad Anónima (SA) and registry book. However, quota Sociedad de Responsabilidad holders have a right of first Limitada (SRL). In both refusal provision for the sale of cases, liability is limited to quotas. Therefore, quotas cannot the corporation’́s assets and be transferred to a third party totality of shareholder or quota without offering their interest to holder contributions. Therefore, the other quota holders first. personal assets are protected Anyone planning to set up against any of the company’s a corporation here is urged to potential creditors. seek advice from a Costa Rican Notable differences between attorney beforehand. This legal the two types of corporations expertise will help determine include the following. the most appropriate corporate The SA is governed by a board structure required for the of directors comprising at least business or investment you want four individuals. In addition to a to make. It must be successfully president, secretary and treasurer, implemented to avoid problems the comptroller position is with the authorities in Costa mandatory. Each appointment Rica and for your corporation to must be occupied by a different operate smoothly.
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aparece hasta en la sopa — “it appears even in the soup,” meaning you see someone or something very frequently. comemierda — literally “eater of excrement,” this is often used in the expression le da la comemierda, meaning someone gets a wild hair, gets an urge to do something unusual and probably inadvisable. Le da la comemierda also can mean that someone is fed up and irritated with something. But do not call someone a comemierda unless you’re looking for a fight. como las vacas — “not understanding anything.” Me hablaron en francés, y quedé como las vacas — “They talked to me in French and I didn’t understand anything.” The expression detrás del palo has the exact same meaning. como pegarle un chonetazo a una lora — like hitting a parrot with your hat (as if to make it shut up), this expression means that something is easy to accomplish. darle los veinte — “to give someone the twenty,” this means to end a romantic relationship, apparently because bus fare used to cost 20 colones. detrás del palo — see como las vacas. jugársela como un vaquero (o un vikingo) — “to play it like a cowboy (or a Viking),” meaning to do something new like you’re an expert on the subject, to get it right the first time. ni chicha ni limonada — “neither firewater nor lemonade,” meaning neither one nor the other. orinar fuera del tarro — “to urinate outside the bucket,” this means to say irrelevant things that don’t pertain to the topic at hand. pensar en los huevos del gallo — “thinking about the rooster’s balls,” meaning to be distracted, thinking about something else.
COMMUNITY DIRECTORY All times AM to PM unless noted
Main road to Brasilito Sun, 10am 8621-6273 perrycarlile@gmail.com
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Hotel Capitán Suizo Mon-Fri, 9-5 8319-4015 adi@playatamarindo.org
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Huacas Mon-Sat 2653-8365 cepiacostarica@gmail.com
ECO-COCO Community Organization Our mission is to raise awareness and educate the community by organizing cleanups and recycling Playas del Coco Mon-Fri, 8-5 8706-7963
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BEACH COMMUNITY CHURCH Visit and Socialize Love, hope, peace
ADI Community Development ADI is a group of volunteers interested in the welfare of Tamarindo
CEPIA Nonprofit Organization We promote culture, health, sports and education for children
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ALLINSURANCE
ALL INSURANCE CR - TAMARINDO Health, Auto, Homeowners and More Offering the best coverage with customer service a priority Across from Auto Mercado Mon-Sat, 8-5 2653-4300 / 973-536-1191 (24/7) info@allinsurancecr.com
CENTRO DE CARNES VILLA MAR Freshness & Quality is Our Priority Beef, frozen seafood, chicken, pork, sausages. We have San Martin meats Villarreal: 250m to Tamarindo Mon-Sat, 8am-7pm 2249-0710 express service carniceriavillamar@hotmail
LA URUCA, HUACAS Supermarket Food, liquor, fishing gear, and much more - delivery service available 300m W of Flamingo turnoff 7 days a week, 7-8 2653-8714
Tipografía 2
CENTURY GOTHIC ITALIC
COMMUNITY DIRECTORY All times AM to PMB/Nunless noted
CMYK
ESCALA DE GRISES
FITNESS
PACIFIC COAST GYM Stay Healthy — Join Today Training, therapeutic massage, rehab, physiotherapy and nutrition Huacas - next to Super La Uruca Mon-Fri 6-8, Sat-Sun 9-5 2653-9026 / 8718-6872
8794-7679 / 8466-6484 costaricaantigua@gmail.com
EDUCARTE Preschool, Primary, Secondary Private bilingual school 5km south of Huacas Mon-Fri, 8-3:30 2653-6363 info@educartecostarica.com
SCHOOLS
PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOGRAPHY
COSTA RICA ANTIGUA E INEDITA José Gerardo Suárez Monge Photographer and historian, collects and analyzes historical photos
Tamarindo and Flamingo Mon-Fri, 9-1, 2-5 2654-4367 / 2653-2155 info@gmattorneyscr.com
WALDORF SCHOOL Bilingual Education, English & Spanish Foreign languages German and French Pre- Kinder – 8th Grade Canafistula 6km from Villarreal Mon-Fri, 8-2:30 8651-8301 www.gws.ed.cr info@gws.ed.cr
LA PAZ Private School All grades, international baccalaureate program Flamingo / Mar Vista Mon-Fri 2654-4532 paz@lapazschool.org
VETERINARIAN
MASSAGE THERAPIST
MASSAGES BY ELIZABETH Best Massages in Tamarindo Relaxing massages at your hotel or home Best Western Vista Villas Daily, 9-6 8640-6984 massagesbyelizabeth@yahoo.com
GM ATTORNEYS Legal Services Full service in all areas of law
SCHOOLS
PROFESSIONAL SERVICES
MASSAGE THERAPIST
KALISAGE Day Spa and Oxygen Bar Licensed Customized Massages & Facials Plaza Tamarindo #15 Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm 2653-2050 kalisagecr@gmail.com
CAVALLINI VETERINARIAN Animal Hospital Full-service veterinarian hospital for all animals and wildlife Royal Palms Plaza, Santa Rosa Mon-Sat, 8-noon, 1-7, Sun, 9-2 2652-9009 / 8815-5713 (24/7)
THE DOGTOR Vet, Grooming & Pet Shop Export proceedings, delivery, pickup and dropoff service Plaza Palmas #3, Tamarindo Mon-Sat, 8-5 8351-9910 / 4702-5106 thedogtortamarindo@gmail.com
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COMMUNITY DIRECTORY
PLAYAS DEL COCO
All times AM to PM unless noted
KRAIN Luxury Real Estate Member of Leading Real Estate Companies of the World
RE/MAX OCEAN SURF & SUN Nobody Sells More Real Estate Sales of residential condos, homes and single-family home sites
SPECIAL PLACES COSTA RICA Property Management & Rentals Full management, rental and concierge services
REAL ESTATE
KELLER WILLIAMS COSTA RICA BEACH PROPERTIES Helping your dreams be a reality; sales of homes, condos, land and businesses Tamarindo, Sunrise Plaza Flamingo, North Ridge Road Mon-Fri, 9-5, Sat, 9-1 2654-5460 kwcostarica.com
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Flamingo and Playas del Coco Mon-Sat, 8-5 2654-4493 / 2670-2198 specialplaces@crvr.net
Hermosa del Mar Plaza #7 Mon-Fri, 8-5, Sat, 8-noon 4702-7098 / 2665-8746 info@costarica-brokers.com
KRAIN Luxury Real Estate Member of Leading Real Estate Companies of the World
REAL ESTATE
Playa Tamarindo 7 days a week, 9-5 2653-0073 www.remax-oceansurf-cr.com
REAL ESTATE
REAL ESTATE
HORIZON PACIFIC Property Management and Rentals A leader in quality properties and services: Vacation rentals, management, association administration Tamarindo, Plaza Palmas #17 Mon-Sat, 9-5, Sun 9-2 2653-0390 horizonpacificvacations.com
BROKERS COSTA RICA Property Management & Rentals We specialize in luxury rentals and property management
REAL ESTATE SCHOOLS
CHRISTIE'S International Real Estate Specializing in Costa Rica real estate for over 27 years Tamarindo & Flamingo Mon-Fri, 8-5 2654-4004 / 8407-1898 info@plantacionproperties.com
Flamingo, Potrero, Ocotal Daily 8-5 2654-4010 info@kraincostarica.com
REAL ESTATE
REAL ESTATE
ABC REAL ESTATE Fine Selections by the Beach We offer personalized service and a full range of real estate services Plaza Tamarindo Mon-Fri, 9-5, Sat, 9-1 2653-0404 tamarindo@abccostarica.com
All times AM to PM unless noted
Ocotal, Flamingo, Potrero Daily 8-5 2654-4010 info@kraincostarica.com
RE/MAX OCEAN VILLAGE Exclusive Buyer's Agents Roland & Nadene Tipper: Helping buyers find their piece of paradise Pacifico Village, Playas del Coco Daily, 8-5 8371-1520 thetippers@me.com
DINING GUIDE
Costa Pizza: Gourmet pizza at
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DINING GUIDE
PAPAGAYO / PLAYAS DEL COCO / GUANACASTE
Based in Papagayo, serving the Guanacaste region Hours Available every day of the year by reservation
Guanacaste Chef4U: Simply Superb Private Catering
Phone: 8706-2144 ndevenelle@exclusiveresorts. com
The acclaimed French chef Nicolas Devenelle and his team of outstanding cooks will create a dinner experience for you, whether you’re a couple, a family or a wedding party. Their unsurpassed culinary innovations and gorgeous presentation will create an unforgettable dining experience at the place and time of your choosing.
Specialties Private dinners, events, weddings, culinary workshops, mixology lessons
“TURRIALBA” 4-COURSE PLATED DINNER Organic Green Salad
Wagyu Short Rib
Homemade Lobster Ravioli
Soursop Cheesecake
Fresh asparagus, orange segments, hearts of palm and garden-herb vinaigrette Spinach, lobster, tomato, basil, white truffle parmesan sauce
Slowly braised, served with garlic mashed potato and asparagus With pineapple chips and passion fruit coulis
Located inside Bahía Pez Vela resort, 5 km west of Playas del Coco; always open to the public Hours Daily, noon-9pm
Maracuyá Beach Club: Exquisite Oceanfront Dining
Phone: 2670-0901 info@guanacastechef4u.com Specialties Offering lunch, dinner and full bar, with day passes available to use the pool, plus mixology lessons Weekly Calendar Mon: Catch of the Day Market Tue: Mixology Class Wed: Culinary Academy Thu: Ping-Pong Tournament Fri: BBQ Night, Live Music
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Also operated by Chef Nicolas Devenelle, Maracuyá Beach Club offers fine dining in a pristine setting on an isolated beach near Playa Ocotal. Pamper your palate with culinary excellence in this secluded piece of paradise.
MENU SELECTIONS Mango Salad with Chicken c5,900
Beef Short Ribs
Grilled Jumbo Prawn Salad c6,900
Red Snapper ‘En Papillote’
c12,500
Yellowfin Tuna Tartare
Beef Tenderloin
c13,500
Mixed greens, tomato, mango, avocado, corn, blue cheese, croutons and grilled herb chicken
With mixed greens, mango, heart of palm and Caribbean mojito passion fruit vinaigrette
c7,900
Tuna, wakame, mango, avocado, arugula, and truffle oil, with cucumber carpaccio
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c8,900
With mushroom risotto, creamy parmesan and truffle sauce Served with home-made ratatouille and basil mashed potato
Potato gratin, green asparagus and haricot vert, red wine sauce
Hours Mon-Thu, 11am till late Fri-Sun, 9am till late Phone: 2670-1982 pete@coconutzbar.com Specialties Smoked BBQ Microbrewery Gourmet bar bites Sports bar Live music Private parties
3km south of Huacas, road to Tamarindo Hours Daily, 7am-9pm Breakfast 7am-10am
COCONUTZ BAR & GRILL: Sports Bar Coconutz is your neighborhood sports bar and microbrewery in an exotic tropical setting, complete with gorgeous local hardwood, trees growing through the floor, license plates from all over the world, surfboards hanging from the rooftop, and of course ... our famous swing set! We feature the best tropical drink selection in the area, as well as our on-premise brewed Angry Goats beers on tap. Come visit the premier sports bar in Playas Del Coco.
MENU SELECTIONS Porky Piñas
Walking Taco
Smokey Shrimp Poppers
Chicken & Waffle Burger
Memphis Ribs
Al Pastor Pizza
Pineapple bites wrapped in bacon, topped with teriyaki and sesame seeds Fresh jumbo shrimp, sliced jalapeño and cream cheese, wrapped in bacon and smoked Half rack or whole rack, with choice of two sides
Shredded chicken or beef, cheese, lettuce, pico de gallo, sour cream, fried tostada, grilled in tortilla Buttermilk fried chicken with waffle bun, American cheese, heat and sweet sauce Adobe smoked pork, pineapple salsa, local fresh cheese, house mole sauce
La Playita: Poolside Dining Located at the Seis Playas Hotel, La Playita restaurant and bar is open to hotel guests and the public, and is known for its friendly and inviting environment. It is the ideal setting for sharing good food and drinks with family and friends, or a romantic dinner poolside while enjoying the convenient distance to our six local beaches.
MENU SELECTIONS Phone: 2653-6818 info@seisplayashotel.com Specialties Food cooked to your taste — con mucho gusto Friday Night Texas Barbecue
Broken Yolk Sandwich
$12
Pasta
Breakfast Quesadilla
$12
Open Grill
BLT La Playita
$10
Pineapple Flambé
Fried egg, bacon or ham and cheese on toast, served with seasonal fruit Eggs, tomato, onion, sweet pepper and cheese, served with seasonal fruit Always a favorite for a light bite to eat: bacon, lettuce and tomato
$14
Build your own pasta bowl, with a mixed salad
From $16
Pork tenderloin, chicken breast, ribeye, New York strip, beef tenderloin & catch of the day
$4
Our most popular dessert served hot with vanilla ice cream
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HUACAS
Avenida Central, across from El Coco Casino, Playas del Coco
PLAYAS DEL COCO
DINING GUIDE
DINING GUIDE
PALM BEACH
Palm Beach, next to the estuary Hours Breakfast: 7:30-2:30 Lunch: 11-3 Dinner: 5:30-9 Phone: 2653-0975 frontdesk@hotelbulabula.com Specialties
The Great Waltini's - Bula Bula: American Fusion Cuisine
Daily:
Sunset happy hour 50% off appetizers 4-6pm
Monday:
Mexican all you care to eat buffet 5:30-8:30
Wednesday:
Italian All you care to eat buffet 5:30-8:30
Enjoy casual fine dining and experience “A fusion of the Americas” in a tranquil and inviting setting. At the Great Waltini’s, you can enjoy a sumptuous meal in an attractive dining area or choose to sit under the stars and enjoy your meal on the garden patio. Choose from houseaged steaks, seafood dishes, and down home fare. Top with cocktails and desserts—the complete experience. Located in beautiful Palm Beach Estates next to the estuary. Easily accessible from Tamarindo via boat taxi (complimentary with dinner reservations). Pickup time 5, 5:30 and 6 pm. Please call before 2pm to reserve boat taxi (2653-0975). Happy hour – includes domestic beer, well drinks, giant famous Bula margaritas and appetizer specials.
MENU SELECTIONS Ahi Tuna
Annie's Salad
Double Cut Pork Chop
Hand Carved Turkey
Blackened Shrimp Salad
Aged Filet Mignon
Baked Lasagna
St. Louis Style Pork Ribs
8oz filet prepared tropical, blackened, sautéed or fried Oven roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce and house made gravy
Mahi-Mahi
Blackened chicken breast with avocado over crisp greens and fresh vegetables Blackened jumbo shrimp, sliced avocado over fresh lettuce and fresh vegetables
8oz filet prepared tropical, blackened, sautéed or fried
Italian sausage, beef & pork, tomato, ricotta, mozzarella and romano cheese
Mixed Seafood Combo
Aged New York Steak
Tuna, mahi-mahi, jumbo shrimp, calamari, & mussels in a white wine saffron sauce
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10oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce
10oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce 10oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce Baked tender and served with our famous tropical Bula Bula BBQ sauce
TAMARINDO
DINING GUIDE
Plaza Conchal II, 2nd Floor, Tamarindo Hours Mon-Sat, Lunch: 11:30-2:30 Dinner: 6-10 Closed Sunday Phone: 8404-7887 / 4700-2283 Facebook: @curryontamarindo Specialties Lunch Special: Indian Casado Single malt scotch, local beers, different wines and cocktails
Curry On: Indian Restaurant - V - Vegetarian / VG - Vegan / GF - Gluten Free Guanacaste is one of the best regions in Costa Rica, featuring a large variety of cuisines. Curry On! is yet another feather in Guanacaste´s cuisine cap. We are the first Indian cuisine restaurant in the area. Indian food sizzles and excites. It adds a zing to the senses. We realized the need and decided to fire up the tandoor (clay oven) with the freshest ingredients found in the region. Our best-selling appetizers are our chicken kebabs, with three different melt-in-the-mouth varieties. We are especially known for our curries, notably, tikka masala (cream based),bhuna (homestyle curry), shahi (creamy nut-based curry) and hariyali (spinach based). We offer a variety of breads, all cooked from scratch in our kitchen. We offer vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. If you have something special on your mind that is not on our menu, please let us know and we will work with our chef to bring you choice items in due course. Other than fine dining, we offer our favorite single malt scotch, local beers, different wines and cocktails
MENU SELECTIONS Indian Casado (GF) Lunch Special
Includes rajma, salad, raita, rice and choice of your curry (aaloo gobhi masala, chole, chicken curry or fish curry)
Veggie Pakora (V/VG/GF)
Veggies coated in seasoned chickpea batter and deep-fried
Pindi Chana (V/VG/GF)
Dry chickpea cooked with dry spices
Tandoori Chicken (GF)
Yogurt and spice marinated chicken cooked in clay oven
Rajma (V/VG/GF)
Kidney bean in tomato and onion curry
Chole (V/VG/GF)
Homestyle chickpeas in tomato and onion curry
Aaloo Gobhi Masala (V/VG/GF) Cauliflower and potatoes cooked in homestyle curry
Tikka Masala (GF)
Rich creamy tomato, ginger, garlic sauce cooked with almond puree (chicken, fish, shrimp)
Paneer Kofta (V)
Indian cheese balls cooked in rich tomato gravy
Bhuna (GF)
Homestyle onion, tomato curry with herbs and spices (chicken, fish, shrimp)
Kheer (V/GF)
Slow cooked rice and milk with nuts and saffron
Saffron Shreekhand (V/GF)
Sweetened thick yogurt with fresh fruits
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DINING GUIDE
TAMARINDO / LANGOSTA
Hotel Capitán Suizo, Playa Tamarindo Hours Daily, noon to 9:30pm Mon, 7-9pm, Live Marimba Fri, 7-9pm, Live Marimba Phone: 2653-0075 restaurante@hotelcapitansuizo.com Specialties Healthy dishes made from scratch with local and fresh products
El Barco Del Capitán: European-Tico Fusion, Beachfront Restaurant El Barco Del Capitán is nestled in the beautiful garden of the Hotel Capitán Suizo and offers a modern, healthy and fresh cuisine. The restaurant is open to the public for lunch, snacks and dinner. The chef, Jujo Molina, created his dishes inspired by his European roots and the incredible nature that surrounds him here in Costa Rica. Using products from the on-site organic garden and local producers, he creates entirely homemade plates with no additives or preservatives to offer healthy meals every day, every time.
MENU SELECTIONS Ensalada Pulpo (Lunch) $18 Octopus, capers, green olives, tomato carpaccio with paprika vinaigrette
Croquetas del Chef (Snack) $9 Homemade Spanish croquetas with octopus, fish, chicken or spinach
Tartar Capitan (Dinner)
$13
Tacos Carne (Lunch)
$15
Calamares Crujientes (Snack) $13
Rollo Pollo (Dinner)
$20
The Veggie (Lunch)
$15
Queso de Cabra (Dinner) $11
Linguini (Dinner)
$23
Fish Pita (Lunch)
$17
Tres Vegetales (Dinner) $10
Lomito (Dinner)
$28
Beef, tortillas with mixed cabbage salad, guacamole and tamarindo sauce Grilled portobello, tomato, zucchini, chilealmonds-garlic sauce, homemade bun Pita, grilled mahi-mahi, cucumber, carrot, dill yogurt, green leaf side salad
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Crispy calamari with homemade green pesto and a honey, red onion escabèche.
Organic goat cheese from Playa Avellanas served with homemade tomate mermelade Roasted eggplant-red peppers-onion tartare with homemade garlic bread
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Tuna and mango tartar with capers and a cilantro, ginger and soy dressing
Chicken stuffed with mango, asparagus and bacon, potato puree
Calamari, jumbo shrimps, mussels, Spanish chorizo, cherry tomatoes, white wine
200gr of tenderloin with a tamarind sauce over Swiss Roësti and vegetables All taxes included in price
TAMARINDO
DINING GUIDE
Calle Del Parque at the curve between Condo Diria and Balcones del Pacifico Hours Daily, 5:30pm-10pm Closed Tuesdays Phone: 2653-1510 Call for reservations www.tamarindobarefoot.com barefoot.tamarindo@gmail.com Specialties Fresh seafood, fish and vegetarian dishes with gluten-free and vegan options. Order/reserve online
BAREFOOT Restaurant-Lounge: Poolside and Garden Deck Dining In our tropical oasis, apart from Tamarindo’s crowds and main street, you can experience a quiet dinner and/or a relaxing lounge atmosphere. You can choose the garden deck or our Costa Rican rancho (SHAKALAKA) poolside deck. We serve a healthy combination of fish, seafood, and vegetarian (V) dishes gluten free(G) and vegan (VE) options available. We offer a modern palette of international flavors that includes recipes from Asia, Europe, and Latin America. Check our special order items such as the "Paella" y "Pescado a la Sal" / Salt Baked fish. Our lounge area serves a variety of cocktails including our signature Barefoot Passion "its Hot", Espresso, & Tamarindo martinis made with 100% local/natural ingredients. Make reservations online or call, or place an order online for pickup-delivery, or special order. Vegetarian (V), Gluten Free(G), Vegan (VE)
MENU SELECTIONS Pico Poke (G)
Seared tuna with mango and avocado, over seaweed salad with ginger soy sauce
$9.50 Pad Thai (V/G)
Fine rice pasta noodles sautéed with vegetables and served with peanut sauce
Buddha Platter (V)
$13.50
Venus & Uranus (V)
$8
Octopus Sautéed in Garlic $9
Ocean Potion
$15
OB1 Quinoa Salad (VE/G) $9.50 Tropical Spring Rolls (VE/G) $8
Grilled Local Trout (G)
$16
Barefoot Reef Salad (G)
Trident
$19
Fried risotto spheres filled with spinach, fresh herbs and béchamel sauce Quinoa mix with avocado, cranberries, pineapple, almonds, red peppers & more
$12
Grilled octopus or shrimp “Al Ajillo” (sautéed with garlic)
Rice wraps filled with fresh vegetables, mango, avocado, and fresh herbs
$16 Grilled Mahi-Mahi (G) $15 Fresh seafood & fish with octopus, mussels, Grilled mahi-mahi over a bed of spinach shrimp, calamari, & crab meat topped with caramelized onions
Vegetarian delights. lentil croquettes, quinoa, spring rolls, eggplant & plantain Seafood & fish soup in coconut cream served with avocado, plantain and risotto
Grilled Costa Rican trout served with our house coconut and almond sauce Our abundant blend of local grilled/tempura seafood and fish
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DINING GUIDE
TAMARINDO
Nordico Coffee House Nordico is a cozy coffee shop in Tamarindo that serves specialty barista coffee and healthy organic food and drinks. Everything we make is homemade with love and lots of flavors and we put an honor in serving the best local quality costa rican products and coffee. Nordico Coffee House is spacious, has Wifi and AC and a nice terrace, so it's a chilling place to hang out, or just to enjoy, pura vida.
Plaza Tamarindo Second floor Hours Mon-Fri, 7:30am-5pm Sat, 8am-4pm Closed Sun
MENU SELECTIONS Acai Bowl
sm. c3,000, lg c4,000
NorTico
c4,500
Pancakes
c3,500
Mayan Tortilla
c4,000
Avocado Eggsplosion
c3,800
Quinoa
c4,500
Fruits & granola/almonds
Specialties Gourmet coffee Lunch combo, noon-close (Sandwich & smoothie) Acai bowl Healthy food and bakery
Served with fresh strawberries, powdered sugar, homemade syrup, almonds & caramel Nordic or paleo bread, butter, avocado, poached egg, homemade tomato salsa
Rice, beans, plantains, sour cream, sausage, scrambled egg and avocado
Organic homemade tortillas, bean spread, 2 organic fried eggs, cheese, homemade salsa and avocado Spinach, arugula, baby tomatoes, avocado, mango, spring onions, dressing & bread of your choice
FLAMINGO
FLAMINGO
400m south of BCR Flamingo Hours Mon-Fri 8am-5pm Sat 8am-3 pm Closed Sunday Phone: 2654-4008
A lo Nico
Fresh & Homemade Our international menu is made with local ingredients with a French touch in a family environment. Dogs are welcome.
Specialties Breakfast, vegetarian options, crepes, smoothies, casados
MENU SELECTIONS
Flamingo - 100m south of road to Potrero Hours Daily, 5:30pm-10:30pm Closed Wednesday Phone: 8532-8613
Vaca Loka
Italian Restaurant True Italian cuisine. Pasta like you are in Roma! Fresh bruschetta served when you arrive. Buon appetito!
Specialties Pizza, pasta, meat, fish
MENU SELECTIONS
Falafel / Shawarma Wrap
c3.800
House Lasagna
Creamy Chicken Sandwich
c3.900
Ribeye c6.500
Shrimp in passion fruit, Tahi chili sauce c4.200 64 | Read. like. share. | online
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c6.500
LAS CATALINAS
DINING GUIDE
At Casa Chameleon, 4km north of the Potrero soccer field Hours Daily, 7am-10pm No children under 12 years Phone: 2103-1200 concierge@ casachameleonhotels.com Specialties Fresh fish, sunset cocktails, "boquitas" menu
Sentido Norte - Fine Dining Sentido Norte, a restaurant and bar at Casa Chameleon, proudly offers an adult fine-dining experience that celebrates the best of Costa Rican cuisine. Your drive through winding roads above the quaint beach town of Las Catalinas is rewarded by an unforgettable but affordable taste of luxury. Just a few steps uphill from the bright and welcoming entrance, your table awaits in a gorgeous, open-air perch framed by a panoramic view of the Pacific. A design motif incorporating responsibly sourced teak adds a sense of warmth and well-being to the romantically lit atmosphere. All food and drinks are inspired by the country’s bountiful abundance, combining uniquely local and native ingredients in the glass and on the plate.
MENU SELECTIONS Overnight Oats
$18
Casa Chameleon Burger
French Toast
$12
Ceviche $14
Knife & Fork Tortillas
$14
With almond milk, yogurt, fruit, cashews, local honey or tapa dulce
With sweet plantains and coconut milk cream
$19
Angus burger with arugula, Swiss or goat cheese and aioli Fresh fish ceviche, leche de tigre, homemade "chilero"
Grilled Chicken Wrap
$12
ChicharrĂłn or vegan huevos rancheros
Vegan Omelettes
Vegan Bowl
$6
$10
Octopus & Mussels
$29
Grilled Skirt Steak
$30
Fresh Tuna Poke
$24
Hearts of palm ceviche, avocado & tomato
Octopus and mussels wok-sauteed in garlic butter and white wine
With greens, avocado & tomato, spicy aioli
With asparagus, mushrooms and caramelized onion
Guacamole and Salsa
$19
Quinoa, mushroom and squash picadillo salad, spicy garbanzo beans
Skirt steak, chimichurri sauce, salad, french fries
Raw tuna, mango, avocado
Prices shown include 13% tax and 10% service / Prices subject to change
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DINING GUIDE
SURFSIDE / POTRERO
1 km east of the Banco Nacional in Flamingo Hours Daily, 6:30am-9:30pm
Nasu: Tropical Creative Cuisine Welcome to Nasu Restaurant, tropical creative cuisine. Join us oceanside, where the freshest catch is prepared every day by our acclaimed chef. Enjoy the culinary treasures of Costa Rica, where tradition and innovation meet.
MENU SELECTIONS
Phone: 2654-4671, 2654-5340
Panzanella Salad
$13
Ravioli della nonna
Specialties Fresh seafood and pasta
Antipasto di mare
$24
Grilled Tenderloin
Lettuce, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, artisan bread, jumbo shrimp in vinaigrette For two: octopus, crab, shrimp, clams, salmon, sea bass, tuna with vegetables
Mediterranean Snack
$14
For two: falafel, tzatziki, tomato pesto, baba ghanoush, feta cheese, pita bread
Potrero, 800m north of Banco Nacional Hours Daily, 11am -10pm Kitchen closes 9pm
$24
Elephant Ear
$12
Lightly breaded chicken, cherry tomatoes, arugula, Parmesan crisps, lime dressed
Private residence on the beach transformed into a quaint restaurant and bar, renowned for its fresh seafood. Come and enjoy incredible food and awesome sunsets and views of the Pacific Ocean.
MENU SELECTIONS Grilled Scallops
c5000
Onion Rings
c3500
Catch of the Day
c9000
Jambalaya
c7500
Pesto Tuna Sandwich
c7000
Grilled in a bath of Cacique liquor, lime and garlic With tropical salsa, grilled vegetables & potatoes or rice
Angus Tenderloin
c11000
Grilled to perfection with vegetables & rosemary potatoes
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Roasted potatoes, grilled vegetables and a mushroom sauce
The Beach House Beachfront Dining
Phone: 2654-6203 Specialties Fresh seafood Epic sunset view
$14
Build your own pasta bowl, with a mixed salad
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Thick-cut battered with a subtle blend of spices, served with garlic mayo and rosada sauce
Sausage, shrimp & chicken with onions, tomatoes & peppers in Cajun sauce over rice or linguini Pesto seared tuna on fresh bread served with lettuce, tomato & pesto aioli
BRASILITO
DINING GUIDE
Main corner, Brasilito Hours Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat-Sun, 10am-midnight Phone: 8688-0651 costarica@ lucysretiredsurfers.com Specialties Only for the brave: Our infamous scorpion shot
Free Margarita
mention HOWLER password: Copa Mundial
Lucy’s Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant: Coastal Cuisine Beachfront restaurant and bar serving unique coastal fusion dishes and cocktails featuring the freshest ingredients in Guanacaste! Lucy’s is more than just a restaurant, it’s a lifestyle. With locations in some of the most tubular spots around the world (New Orleans, Key West, Costa Rica and Aruba), we know how to have a good time. Let the sea breeze and sound of the waves remind you that when you’re here you’re always on vacation. At Lucy’s we’re serious about our grub – we’ve got all your classic favorites like burgers and nachos, as well as our signature coastal bites with a touch of Pacific flair. Our one-of-a-kind drinks are the perfect way to cool down after a long day at the beach, and we keep them flowing all day (and night!) long. Lucy's’ daily food & drink specials are boat-to-table and will give you something new to try every day, and with live music, a radical bar scene, and six large-screen TVs, Lucy’s is Guanacaste's hottest new bar and restaurant!
MENU SELECTIONS Shaka Ceviche
c5,500
The Juicy Lucy
Avocado Fritas
c5,500
Bacon Brie Chicken Sandwich
Cheese Quesadilla
c5,000
Tsunami Tuna Salad
Serious Nachos
c6,700
Blackened Fish Tacos c6,000
Delicious fresh local fish and shrimp in a citrus marinade topped with avocado
Beer-battered avocado slices served with black bean salsa and homemade ranch
Flour tortilla overflowing with melted cheese, served with pico and guacamole
Fully loaded nachos topped with beans, pico, sour cream, and our rockin’ guac
c7,500
Our famous 8 oz. burger served on a brioche bun with Lucy’s special sauce
Grilled marinated chicken breast topped with bacon, brie, tomato, and spinach
c6,500
Freshly seared yellowfin served over spring mix with fresh fruit and feta
Blackened local fish topped with mangopineapple slaw and avocado crema
Pao Pao Shrimp Tacos c6,500 Fried or grilled shrimp tossed in a sassy pao pao sauce, topped with cabbage slaw
Flank Steak Tacos
c6,500
Marinated flank steak topped with jalapeño chimichurri and queso fresco
Whole Red Snapper Casado c8,000 Served with island rice, black beans, and a side salad
N’awlins Surf n’ Turf c10,000 Marinated flank steak served with head-on Cajun BBQ shrimp and roasted potatoes
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 67
BRASILITO
50m west of the plaza, in front of Playa Brasilito
An 8 min. drive from Tamarindo, 2km south Villarreal
El Oasis
Bar & Restaurant
Hours Daily, 7am-10pm Phone: 2654-4596 Specialties Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Happy hour 3-6 daily, serving cocktails
Latin Fusion restaurant serving a mix of Costa Rican classics along with delicious Mexican dishes including fresh seafood. Many glutenfree options.
Rustic Outdoor BBQ
Hours By reservation
Dine with the stars of Guanacaste on a private ranch. Enjoy a delicious BBQ buffet with sides. Wine, beer and sangria included! Call for reservations.
Phone: 8869-9765 Specialties Zipline and BBQ buffet for only $85. Available for private parties and events.
Available for private parties and events.
MENU SELECTIONS
MENU SELECTIONS Chilaquiles Mexican Salad with Shrimp and Coconut Shrimp with Mango Sauce
Black Stallion
VILLARREAL
DINING GUIDE
Mixed BBQ Buffet
$45
Seafood Buffet
$45
Baby back ribs, chorizo and chicken, sides included A delicious array of seafood and sides dishes
RESTAURANT DIRECTORY All times AM to PM unless noted
200m W of Super Compro Daily, 6-9 7028-3264 / 8911-2191 Jimemurillo98@hotmail.com 68 | Read. like. share. | online howlermag.com
EL BARCO AT CAPITAN SUIZO Beachfront Restaurant Entirely homemade dishes, no additives, healthy meals every time Hotel Capitán Suizo Daily, noon-10pm 2653-0075
CURRY ON! Indian Restaurant The first and only Indian cuisine restaurant in the area Plaza Conchal II, 2nd floor, Tamarindo Mon-Sat, 11:30am-10pm 4700-2283 / 8404-7887 @curryontamarindo
PLAYAS DEL COCO
HUACAS
SODA GUAYMY Typical & Rustic Food Breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks
TAMARINDO
SODA GUAYMY
TAMARINDO/LANGOSTA
PLAYA GRANDE
POTS & BOWLS Coffee Shop Surrounded by Plants Food and beverage with vegan options, pastries, coffee selections, matcha, organic wine and cold pressed juices. Playa Grande, Main Road Daily, 8-5 4701-2394 potsandbowls@gmail.com
MARACUYÁ RESTAURANT More Than Dinner, It’s an Experience Pamper your palate with culinary excellence in our secluded piece of paradise Beachfront at Bahía Pez Vela Resort Daily, noon-9 2670-0901 guanacastechef4u.com/maracuya
PORO PORO at Villa Buena Onda Amazing Food, Amazing Views! Ocean-view dining experience in a luxurious and secluded environment From anchor, 200m E, 700m S Daily, 8-8 4031-7707 reservations@villabuenaonda.com
CONTRIBUTORS Gregory Basco. Award-winning professional nature photographer and environmentalist. www.deepgreenphotography.com, www. fotoverdetours.com Gilberth Cavallini. Veterinary Doctor, owner Cavallini Veterinary Services, Villarreal (MegaSuper Plaza). tamarindovet@gmail.com Ellen Zoe Golden. Former entertainment biz PR flack, now living the dream as a travel agent and journalist in my long-time home of Tamarindo. And yes, I surf! Charlene Golojuch. Co-owner of Hidden Garden Art Gallery with husband, Greg; www.HiddenGardenArt.com Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys. He specializes in real estate and corporate law. igranados@gmattorneyscr. com Jarryd Jackson. Owner of J&M Architecture and Construction, Jarryd is passionate about building and surfing. Karl Kahler. Author of "Frommer's Costa Rica 2017," former travel editor of the Tico Times and former national editor of California's San Jose Mercury News. Johnny Lahoud. Owner/broker of Pura Vida Realty, Playa Grande. He loves Costa Rica a lot. pvrealty@gmail.com
Michael Rudd. Photojournalist and fourwheeler enthusiast who has covered offroad races, overland expeditions and wild adventures in some of the most remote places on earth. Patricia Sterman. Argentinian fashion design graduate, living in Costa Rica for 20 years. Owner of Azul Profundo Boutique, jewelry manufacturer and co-founder of SalveMonos animal protection group. José Gerardo Suárez Monge. Professional photographer, graphic designer and author of six Costa Rican historical photo books. Call 7062-3086 or 8794-7679. Jenn Parker. An avid writer, traveler, and nature lover on a mission to surf the earth and share her stories. Jessie Rowan. Multimedia journalist and photographer originally from California. Former Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting grantee and global health reporter. Passion for surfing and traveling. jessierowan2929@ gmail.com Vern Veer Jr. Retired reptile specialist, Denver zoo. Co-owner of V3 Reptile breeders.
PHOTOGRAPHY Jorgelina Agramunt. We document your surf session at the breaks in Avellanas Beach with consistently incredible, rad images and create wall art. 8879-9612. www. avellanassurfphotos.com BADFsh Gregory Basco. Award-winning professional nature photographer and environmentalist. www.deepgreenphotography.com, www. fotoverdetours.com Esteban Delgado. Professional photographer outside and inside the water; aerial photography, drone and videos. San Jose, Costa Rica. 8622-4036 & 2282-642. estebandg7@gmail.com Sergio Quesada. Architect by trade, who has skated, surfed and been shooting photography for 10 years. San José, Costa Rica. 6296-9056, quesada.sergio@gmail.com @calambrefilmc @calambrefilm Jorge A. Russell. Professional photographer from Chile based in Jaco beach. Does outdoor photography and studio photography. 8836-6475. jorgerussellphotographer@gmail.com WSL/Mike Chlala
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 69
HOWLER
SURFING COSTA RICA
COMPETITION RESULTS: The Backyard Surf Series PROFILE: Malakai Martínez
free copy
JUNE 2018
•
•
SURF SPOT: The Boca
TIDE CHART
•
WAVES YOU'VE MISSED
howlermag.com | read. like. share. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 1
COMPETITION RESULTS
SURFING COSTA RICA
COVER: JJ López making airs looks easy at La Curva, Playa Hermosa on May 8, 2018. Photo: Jorge A. Russell June, 6
The Backyard Surf Series
3 Quarter
by Freddy Camacho, La Voz del Surf CR E l Pa t i o , J a c ó ( M ay 5 ) The Backyard Surf Series is an event held for the past 10 years every Friday (masters) and Saturday (open) at 4 p.m, at El Patio, Jacó. It is an open surf contest in "expression session" format. No entry fee and $300 cash prize. Everyone is welcome to come and compete. At 5 p.m. we start with a variety of great bands from all over the country.
June, 13 New Moon
Saturday, May 5, waves were 4 to 5 feet, weather was perfect and the sunset was epic. The winner was Carlos Muñoz, 25, with a perfect combination of innovation and power surf. His technique was impeccable, blowing everybody's mind with unpredictable moves.
June, 20
Results: 1st 2nd 3rd 4th
Ca r l o s M u ñ o z JJ L ó p e z No e Ma r M c G o n a g l e Ja s o n To r r e s
1st Quarter
Photographer: Jorge A. Russell About: A native of Spain, Jorge has been an avid photographer since he was 14 years old. He has been making a living as a professional photographer in Costa Rica since 2004.
June, 27 Full Moon
Based in Jacó 8836-6475 jorgerussellphotographer@ gmail.com @fotografodeaccion
winner Carlos Muñoz (top and bottom) and Jason Torres. Photos: Jorge A. Russell 2 Contest | Read. like. share. | online howlermag.com
JUNE, 1 JUNE, 30
5:17 AM 5:22 AM
JUNE, 1 JUNE, 30
6:04 PM 5:57 PM
TIDE CHART
JUNE 1 - JUNE 30, 2018
DAY
HIGH TIDES
LOW TIDES
HIGH TIDES
LOW TIDES
1 Fri
4:38am 8.45 '
10:33am 1.05 '
4:47pm 8.80 '
11:00pm 0.33 '
2 Sat
5:18am 8.31 '
11:13am 1.26 '
5:25pm 8.51 '
11:38pm 0.57 '
3 Sun
6:00am 8.12 '
11:55am 1.50 '
6:07pm 8.16 '
12:18am 0.87 '
6:42am 7.91 '
4 Mon
12:37pm 1.75 '
HIGH TIDES
6:51pm 7.80 '
5 Tue
1:00am 1.19 '
7:28am 7.72 '
1:25pm 1.96 '
7:39pm 7.45 '
6 Wed
1:46am 1.49 '
8:14am 7.60 '
2:17pm 2.09 '
8:31pm 7.19 '
7 Thurs
2:34am 1.71 '
9:06am 7.59 '
3:11pm 2.08 '
9:27pm 7.07 '
8 Fri
3:26am 1.81 '
9:58am 7.73 '
4:09pm 1.91 '
10:25pm 7.12 '
9 Sat
4:20am 1.76 '
10:52am 8.01 '
5:05pm 1.57 '
11:21pm 7.35 '
10 Sun
5:16am 1.55 '
11:44am 8.43 '
5:59pm 1.09 '
SURF
11 Mon
12:15am 7.73 '
6:10am 1.22 '
12:34pm 8.92 '
6:51pm 0.55 '
12 Tues
1:07am 8.20 '
7:02am 0.81 '
1:24pm 9.41 '
7:41pm 0.00 '
13 Wed
1:57am 8.70 '
7:54am 0.39 '
2:14pm 9.85 '
8:31pm -0.47 '
14 Thurs
2:47am 9.16 '
8:44am 0.04 '
3:02pm 10.15 '
9:19pm -0.81 '
15 Fri
3:37am 9.52 '
9:36am -0.18 '
3:52pm 10.27 '
10:09pm -0.97 '
16 Sat
4:27am 9.73 '
10:28am -0.24 '
4:44pm 10.19 '
10:59pm -0.92 '
17 Sun
5:19am 9.78 '
11:20am -0.14 '
5:36pm 9.91 '
11:49pm -0.69 '
18 Mon
6:11am 9.68 '
12:16pm 0.12 '
6:32pm 9.48 '
19 Tues
12:43am -0.31 '
7:07am 9.46 '
1:14pm 0.46 '
7:28pm 8.96 '
20 Wed
1:39am 0.16 '
8:05am 9.18 '
2:16pm 0.81 '
8:30pm 8.46 '
21 Thurs
2:37am 0.65 '
9:05am 8.92 '
3:20pm 1.09 '
9:34pm 8.05 '
22 Fri
3:39am 1.06 '
10:07am 8.73 '
4:26pm 1.23 '
10:38pm 7.80 '
23 Sat
4:41am 1.35 '
11:07am 8.64 '
5:30pm 1.24 '
11:40pm 7.72 '
24 Sun
5:41am 1.51 '
12:03pm 8.64 '
6:26pm 1.13 '
25 Mon
12:38am 7.78 '
6:37am 1.55 '
12:55pm 8.68 '
7:18pm 0.97 '
26 Tues
1:28am 7.91 '
7:25am 1.52 '
1:41pm 8.76 '
8:02pm 0.80 '
27 Wed
2:16am 8.08 '
8:11am 1.46 '
2:25pm 8.83 '
8:44pm 0.63 '
28 Thurs
2:58am 8.24 '
8:53am 1.38 '
3:05pm 8.87 '
9:22pm 0.51 '
29 Fri
3:38am 8.38 '
9:33am 1.32 '
3:45pm 8.87 '
10:00pm 0.44 '
30 Sat
4:18am 8.47 '
10:13am 1.30 '
4:25pm 8.80 '
10:36pm 0.46 '
EAT STRETCH SLEEP REPEAT #gogrande
We h a v e y o u c o v e r e d . Free 2 hr
Board Rental with surf lesson
simply mention
HOWLER www.frijoleslocos.com
Sunset
Happy hour
Daily, 4-6 2x1 cocktails 1000c beers Discount bocas menu
www.ripjackinn.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 3
SURFING COSTA RICA
Malakai Martínez PROFILE
by Ellen Zoe Golden
W
hen the World Surf League sent out photos from the Banzai Pipeline Pro Juniors Qualifying Series (QS), some of them featured a diminutive figure about to be covered by tubes of 10 to 12 feet. That was Malakai Martínez, whose free surfing experiences during recent winter visits to Hawaii’s North Shore had won him an invitation to participate in the prestigious young surfers’ event. Martinez went on to surf spectacularly in the Pipe Pro Juniors, earning a fourth-place finish in the end. The final finish was Martínez’ best QS result to date, although two years ago he won the 14 and Under Grom national championship of North America in California. Earlier that year, he snatched a nice prize for the Best Maneuver at the Quiksilver Young Guns, at a different California break. But, sometimes, Martínez just goes out and paddles into the biggest waves he can find, such as those at
Todos Santos, off the coast of Baja, Mexico, and, the smaller, but fun ones, of course at home in Tamarindo. “I love surfing the big waves,” he says. “There is a big difference in these kinds of waves. I don’t have to time to decide what to do. Sure, I had fear in the beginning because I didn’t know what to expect. I learned that big waves are not what I thought. Sure, they were a lot scarier at first, but I realized I needed to just take them on and not think about it too much even though I was nervous. Once out, it was easier for me to process that I was just there, and to just go for it and get on the best ones.” Martínez’s surf style is powerful and precise. He stays calm and cool in a heat, and in no hurry. Then he catches that wave he waited for so patiently, and goes off the charts. You could say he makes more airs than most, or in the big ones, just cruises easily inside the barrel. Then, he simply paddles back out to do it all over again. At 17 years old, this super charger’s national accomplishments already include spots on the top 10 national junior surf team, appearing in places
Martínez’s surf style is powerful and precise.
Athlete: Malakai Martínez Sport: Surfing Age: 17 About: Powerful, young surfer as comfortable in big waves as he is making airs off smaller slopes. Loves family, school and of course, surfing. Photo: BADFish
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Malakai has no fear of charging the big waves. He grabbed some cover to place 4th at the Pipe Pro Juniors, his best QS result to date.
Photos: WSL/ Mike Chlala
Sliding down the massive 10-12 foot waves of the Banzi Pipeline. Photo: WSL/ Mike Chlala
like Hyuga, Japan. At home, Martínez has been the national mini-grommets, grommets, and boys champion. In Guanacaste, he just became the 2018 provincial junior champion. “I’ve worked hard my whole life: 100 percent dedication, clean living and lots of practice,” Martínez says. “Even when I don’t want to get out there just to train in all conditions, I think I want to be the best, and do this professionally one day — maybe the CT (Championship Tour) — so I go do it.”
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 5
Crocodiles can be a problem and care should be used when surfing The Boca.
SURFING COSTA RICA
BOCA BARRANCA
by Howler Staff
SURF SPOT
Unidentified surfer sets up for re-entry. Photo: Sergio Quesada
B
oca Barranca is Costa Rica’s second-longest wave, sometimes up to a kilometer in length. It is also considered one of the best longboarding waves in the world. But, when the sandbars align correctly, it is a great wave for all types of surfing, including high-performance. It offers fun carving sections, vertical lips and occasional short barrels. You will be surfing with some of the 55- to 75-year-old pioneers and legends of Costa Rican surfing. The average crowd is 25 to 30, very competitive hardcore surfers, so pay attention and don't come with an attitude. Located very close to Puntarenas, which is known for its unique ocean water scent, Boca Barranca is most certainly one of the smelliest places to surf in the country. Like most river mouths in Costa Rica, crocodiles can be a problem and care should be used when surfing here.
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How to get there
The Boca is located at the Barranca river mouth off the main highway to and from San José, between Caldera and Puntarenas. Just north of the bridge there are a few beach access roads where you can stop and check the surf. You can check the surf from the bridge, but be aware of the traffic. Guarded parking is highly recommended and available directly in front of the break. Also, there are a couple hotels nearby where guarded parking is available.
Where to surf
The wave is very long, and similar to Pavones in that you can take off on a wave anywhere down the line. Of course the most desired takeoff zone is in front of the river mouth, where the wave begins, but currents will often push you north and away from this area. During big south swells, a
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one-kilometer ride is possible. At this point it’s best to walk back up the beach towards the river mouth and paddle out from there. It’s now surfable at all tides, due to sandbar conditions. Get on it early to avoid crowds and onshore winds that normally arrive as early as 9 a.m. Occasionally off-shores will blow all day, and the rainy season can bring afternoon glass-off and smaller crowds.
Local companies and events
Many hotels are to be found in the general area, and Caldera is known to have some great seafood restaurants. Bring your surfing needs with you or Jacó Beach is 45 minutes away. The famous Rabbit Kekai Longboard contest is often held here. Hundreds of surfers come from around the world for this longboard contest on one of the longest and best longboard waves in the world.
The Boca provides an unusual view of the pueblo behind the wave as it pushes on and on. Photo: Sergio Quesada
Photographer Sergio Quesada sets his camera down to enjoy the overhead swell.
Photographer: Sergio Quesada About: An architect by trade. I have skated, surfed and been shooting photography for the last 10 years. San Jose 6296-9056 quesada.sergio@gmail.com @calambrefilmc @calambrefilm Sunset over the mountain range behind The Boca as the wave continues to line up. Photo: Sergio Quesada
Come relax by our pool for only $15! Purchase a Day Pass for $15 per person, and get a $15 credit in our bar and restaurant. Compre un Pase de Día por $15 por persona, y obten un crédito de $15 en nuestro bar y restaurante.
seisplayashotel.com • +506 2653 6818
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 7
SURFING COSTA RICA
Photographer: Esteban Delgado About: Esteban Delgado is a professional land, sea, and air photographer and videographer with more than seven years of experience. Esteban believes that clear communication with his customers is key to capturing the best images and videos. Working in all of Costa Rica 8622-4036, 2282-6429 estebandg7@gmail.com @dg7photo @dg7foto
Unidentified surfer getting slotted at a secret spot in Guanacaste, May 8, 2018. Photo: Esteban Delgado
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PLAYA HERMOSA
Intensive 3.5 Hour Workshop: All Things Chocolate Tamarindo - Google or WAZE By appointment 8883-5832 ron@reinaschocolate.com Reina’s Chocolate
Daily: Workshops by appointment Fri: Closed Sat: Tamarindo Farmers Market 8am-2pm Sun: By special arrangement
Alberto MuñozEmily holding a perfect line inthe Playa Hermosa onin a Gussoni, hitting lip at La Curva, glassy morning,the May 15, 2018. Photo: Esteban morning on May 8th. Photo:Delgado Jorge Russell
WAVES YOU'VE MISSED by Jenn Parker
T
he first half of 2018 brought with it a fair share of fun waves. While there have only been a few very sizeable swells so far, the real swell season is only just getting started. Mid-April through mid-May blessed surfers in Costa Rica with plenty of SSW swells that lit up the Pacific coastline. As it is seasonally characteristic, all the swells that did show up this past month were SSW swells averaging three to six feet. Three to six feet of swell looks very different from surf spot to surf spot, as is apparent in Playa Hermosa and Playa Avellenas. While most afternoons the wind did switch to the unfavorable onshore, early morning surfs were often glassy and gorgeous. There were a few days when the wind didn’t really affect the surf too much though, especially further down south.
Photos Jorge A. Russell HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 9
WAVES YOU'VE MISSED ... cont'd
The overhead wave that was over no one’s head on April 26, 2018. Photo: Jorgelina Agramunt
Estero at Playa Avellanas, March 21, 2018
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Nathan Strom, RVCA advocate, cruising in the Russellon May 16, 2018. shadePhotos of a greenJorge wave inA. Avellenas Photo: Jorgelina Agramunt
SURFING COSTA RICA
PLAYA AVELLANAS
Nick Melanson, walking to the nose at Palo Seco, Pelicans enjoying the surf at Little Hawaii on May 8, 2018. Playa Avellanas, April 5, 2018 Photo: Jorgelina Agramunt
Photographer: Jorgelina Agramunt Company: Avellanas Surf Photos About: We are out there every day documenting your surf sessions so that you can go home with incredibly rad images. Your photographs will be wall art worthy! Take your stoke back home. Based in Avellanas (506) 8879-9612 info@avellanassurfphotos.com avellanassurfphotos avellanassurfphotos.com
Rubiana Brownell slicing the lip at Palo Seco on May 9, 2018. Photo: Jorgelina Agramunt
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 11
