Van Cleef & Arpels Guide Nov'13

the

Maisonof

Enchantment

Boutique Van Cleef & Arpels circa 1910 Place Vend么me, Paris

History in the making Surrounded by intrigue, rich in romance, and glittering ZLWK WKH ZRUOGÂśV ÂżQHVW MHZHOV Van Cleef & Arpels is truly a treasure. From a humble French boutique to an internationallyDGRUHG KDXWH MRDLOOHULH 0DLVRQ MHZHOOHU\ ORYHUV KDYH ZLWQHVVHG its rise to success over the past century, enchanted by the vibrant, innovative pieces that are unveiled every season.

On these pages, discover the story of its origins in the dreams of two Parisian newlyweds, XQLWHG E\ WKHLU ORYH RI ¿QH MHZHOOHU\ 7R WKLV GD\ Van Cleef & Arpels’ designs are infused with the charm and VSLULW RI WKH 0DLVRQœV IRXQGHUV Van Cleef & Arpels has MXVW RSHQHG LWV QHZHVW beautiful boutique in 7KH *DOOHULD $O 0DU\DK Island, Abu Dhabi, the city’s latest luxury lifestyle destination.

Always striving for H[FHOOHQFH WKH 0DLVRQ has become a worldwide reference through its

Contents 2 It began with a love story...

6 Inspiring future craftsmen 8 Enchantment through excellence 11 Revealing exceptional treasures 14 Sharing its passion

unique designs, its choice of exceptional stones and its virtuoso FUDIWVPDQVKLS R̆HULQJ H[TXLVLWH MHZHOV DQG timepieces that tell stories and bring enchantment to life.

Discover these exceptional creations at 7KH *DOOHULD ERXWLTXH

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Van Cleef & Arpels The Galleria, Al Maryah Island, Abu Dhabi Tel: +971 2 643 20 88 vancleefarpels.com Cover: Clip Pivoine MystĂŠrieuse, Palais de la chance collection.

3URGXFHG IRU 9DQ &OHHI $USHOV E\ +27 0HGLD 1RYHPEHU (GLWHG E\ +D]HO Plush. Designed by Andy Knappett.

It

began with a

love story...

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I

n 1985, Estelle Arpels married Alfred Van Cleef – a perfect match, in more ways than one. Estelle, the daughter of a precious stone merchant, had grown up in an entrepreneurial family; and Alfred, the son of a precious gem engraver and diamond broker, was equally ambitious.

7KHLU SDVVLRQ IRU ¿QH MHZHOOHU\ UDQ VR GHHS that the pair decided to go set up a business of their own. They partnered with Estelle’s brothers Charles, Julien and Louis, and in 1906 opened Van Cleef & Arpels, a boutique at 22 Place Vendôme – a prestigious location in Paris that’s renowned for its grandness.

1HZV RI WKH ERXWLTXH VSUHDG OLNH ZLOG ¿UH DPRQJ the upper echelons of Parisian society, and soon the city’s socialites were glittering with the two families’ opulent creations.

Over the next few years, boutiques opened in France’s most exclusive resort towns – Dinard, Nice, Deauville and Vichy – and, after the First World War, in Lyon and Cannes too.

As Europe caught its breath after the war, the demand for optimistic, celebratory designs was KLJK 9DQ &OHHI $USHOV WXUQHG WR ÀRUD DQG IDXQD for their inspiration, as well as motifs from historic DQG IDU ÀXQJ FLYLOLVDWLRQV ¹ DPRQJ WKHP &KLQD Japan, and ancient Egypt. They also explored colourful combinations of the world’s brightest

precious stones: new pieces, dripping with lapis OD]XOL WXUTXRLVH RQ\[ MDGH DQG FRUDO DQVZHUHG VRFLHW\ÂśV FDOO IRU D QHZ OLQH RI OLJKW KHDUWHG MHZHOV and brought vibrancy into the trend for geometric Art Deco designs.

In 1926, Estelle and Alfred handed much of their business to the next generation – their daughter RenÊe Puissant. As Artistic Director of the Maison, she took charge of Van Cleef & Arpels’ artistic direction, working closely with designer RenÊ Sim

‘Grace Kelly, Marlene Dietrich and Ava Gardner brought Van Cleef & Arpels to Hollywood’ Lacaze. The pair reinvigorated the brand with their enthusiasm and energy, and applied innovative twists to traditional techniques. Examples of their originality include the Ludo bracelet, with LWV Ă€H[LEOH JROG IDEULF EDQG Âą WKH ÂżUVW RI LWV NLQG Âą and the Passe-Partout, a snake-like necklace that transforms into a bracelet.

7KH 0DLVRQ DOVR PDGH LWV ¿UVW IRUD\ LQWR watchmaking in the 1920s, blending practical WLPHNHHSLQJ ZLWK KDXWH MRDOOHULH FUHDWLRQV 7KH Châtelaine design, in which a small watch dial was concealed in an ornate brooch, pioneered the

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IXVLRQ RI MHZHOOHU\ DQG FKURQRJUDSKV DQG E\ WKH end of the decade women were accessorising their ball gowns with Van Cleef & Arpels wristwatches.

A little later, in 1935, the Maison created its most famous timepiece, one that has been a permanent feature of its watch collections ever since: the &DGHQDV ZDWFK ,W ZDV KDLOHG DV GHÂżQLQJ WKH marriage between beauty and functionality, the stunning symbol of a union that, as legend has it, was born of an idea for a watch suggested to the Maison by the Duke or Duchess of Windsor.

Julien Arpels’ sons, Claude and Jacques, VRRQ MRLQHG WKH EUDQG KHOSLQJ LW WR H[SDQG LQWR international circles. 1939 was a seminal year for 9DQ &OHHI $USHOV DV &ODXGH VHW XS WKH ¿UVW 1HZ York boutique in the Rockefeller Center – but such optimism was short-lived. The Second World War broke out later that year, and the future of the brand looked bleak.

As war raged, the Arpels brothers and nephews

remained in New York, while RenÊe Puissant tended to the Maison in France. But among the desolation, some of the brand’s most beautiful pieces were created. The Oiseaux de Paradis™ design, set with rubies and sapphires, was created in 1942 – a vibrant motif, still popular today. The Fourragère pin, patented in 1943, is an iconic piece RI UHVLVWDQFH MHZHOOHU\ After the war, Pierre Arpels, brother of Claude DQG -DFTXHV MRLQHG WKH EXVLQHVV DQG WKH VHFRQG JHQHUDWLRQ ṘFLDOO\ WRRN RYHU LWV PDQDJHPHQW Times were more restrained, but the Maison worked to perfect yet another unique piece: that of the Zip™ necklace, which was conceived in 1939 ¹ DQG ¿QDOO\ ¿QLVKHG LQ 5HQpH 3XLVVDQWœV daring design transformed from a necklace into a bracelet, using an intricate zipper mechanism – and it has been one of the Maison’s most iconic FUHDWLRQV VLQFH 7KH ¿UVW SLHFH LQ \HOORZ JROG was presented to the United Kingdom’s Duchess of Windsor.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ timepiece collection also underwent a transformation: in 1949, Pierre Arpels created a round wristwatch with an ultra-thin case, a design which was celebrated in 2012 with the Pierre Arpels chronograph.

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Previous pages: Zip necklace/ bracelet, 1951; DĂŠcor Egyptien bracelet, 1924.

These pages: Clip Chrysantheme; Clip Pivoine, 1937, P. Gries.

‘RenĂŠe Puissant’s first Zip necklace was presented to the United Kingdom’s Duchess of Windsor’ Over the following decades, the brand went from VWUHQJWK WR VWUHQJWK OHDGLQJ MHZHOOHU\ WUHQGV VXFK as the large chain necklaces of the 1970s, and the more pared-down designs of the 1980s.

Van Cleef & Arpels remained one of the world’s PRVW GHVLUHG MHZHOOHU\ 0DLVRQV LWV OLVW RI FOLHQWV and collaborators growing to include some of PRGHUQ KLVWRU\œV PRVW LQÀXHQWLDO IHPDOHV 7KH likes of Grace Kelly, Marlene Dietrich and Ava Gardner brought Van Cleef & Arpels’ designs to Hollywood, while the likes of Queen Sirikit of Thailand, Princess Fawzia of Egypt and the Empress of Iran Farah Diba made it a truly international name. ,Q WKH ODWH V 9DQ &OHHI $USHOV MRLQHG the Richemont group, and began to create annual

FROOHFWLRQV Âą MXVW OLNH WKH KDXWH FRXWXUH FORWKLQJ designers. Key collections include ‘L’Atlantide’ in 2007, ‘California RĂŞverie’ in 2009, ‘Bals de LĂŠgende’ in 2011, ‘Couleurs de Paradis’ in 2012, and ‘Palais de la chance’ in 2013 – all of which have been worn by actresses and socialites all over the world. In 2011, when Her Serene Highness Princess Charlène of Monaco married His Serene Highness 3ULQFH $OEHUW ,, RI 0RQDFR RQO\ RQH EULGDO MHZHOOHU would do: Van Cleef & Arpels.

The Maison now has a presence in Europe, North and South America, the Middle East and Asia.

As the world of luxury continues to evolve, the poetry and grace of Van Cleef & Arpels is eternal – and the spirit of Estelle and Alfred’s love lives on through the decades.

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he art of creating ¿QH MHZHOOHU\ LV OLNH D SUHFLRXV JHP LWVHOI KDQGHG GRZQ WKURXJK JHQHUDWLRQV IURP PDVWHUV WR WKHLU DSSUHQWLFHV 9DQ &OHHI $USHOV UHQRZQHG IRU LWV LQQRYDWLYH DSSURDFK WR GHVLJQ DQG FUHDWLRQ KDV FRQWLQXHG WKLV WUDQVIHUHQFH RI NQRZOHGJH VLQFH LW ZDV IRXQGHG LQ ± DQG QRZ DVSLULQJ DUWLVDQV FDQ OHDUQ IURP WKH 0DLVRQ¶V FUDIWVPHQ WKHPVHOYHV LQ D GHGLFDWHG VFKRRO /¶e&2/( 9DQ &OHHI $USHOV RSHQHG LQ 3DULV LQ )HEUXDU\ ZLWK WKH DLP RI FDVWLQJ OLJKW RQ WKH VHFUHW ZRUOG RI KDXWH MRDLOOHULH 2SHQ WR DQ LQWHUQDWLRQDO SXEOLF WKH LQVWLWXWLRQ ZHOFRPHV ERWK SURIHVVLRQDO DQG QRQ SURIHVVLRQDO VWXGHQWV SURYLGLQJ WKRVH ZKR DUH SDVVLRQDWH DERXW MHZHOOHU\ DQG WLPHSLHFHV ZLWK D WKRURXJKO\ XQLTXH LQVLJKW LQWR WKHLU KLVWRU\ DQG FUHDWLRQ (YHU\ OHVVRQ LV OHDG E\ DQ H[SHUW WHDP RI DUW KLVWRULDQV MHZHOOHU\ H[SHUWV JHPRORJLVWV DQG YLUWXRVR FUDIWVPHQ IURP WKH 0DLVRQ¶V 0DLQV G¶2U ZRUNVKRSV $OO DUH SDVVLRQDWH DERXW WKHLU DUW ± DQG

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‘The school casts light on the world of haute joaillerie’

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,QVSLULQJ

future FUDIWVPHQ Left: Exploring the history of Van Cleef & Arpels.

Below: The embroidery of a craftman’s coat.

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Enchantment through excellence Discover the secret world of Van Cleef & Arpels’ haute joaillerie craftsmen, as they strive for perfection and innovation in every piece

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very treasured item that forms part of Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewellery collection is created by hand in the Maison’s Place Vendôme workshops, as has been the tradition for over a centrury.

Jewellers, setters, lapidaries and polishers work side-by-side in this tranquil corner of Paris: known collectively as the Mains d’Or™, or ‘Hands of Gold’, they are among the industry’s most gifted artisans.

The workforce totals just 40 men and women, all of whom have trained – or are training – for years to perfect their skill. True to the Maison’s YDOXHV RI H[FHOOHQFH UH¿QHPHQW DQG LQQRYDWLRQ they dedicate their careers to the perfection of beauty – from the initial design sketches and mock-ups, to the casting and stone setting. This is a

space for innovation, too: alongside the traditional craftsmen, a dedicated research and development team works to perfect the Maison’s signature concepts, such as the Mystery Setting™ and Zip™ necklace, while exploring new avenues of groundbreaking design.

7KH 0DLQV GÂś2UÂŒ KROG VXFK VLJQLÂżFDQFH LQ WKH ZRUOG RI ÂżQH FUDIWV WKDW WKH 9DQ &OHHI $USHOV workshops have been awarded the ‘Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant’ (Living Heritage Company) label by France’s Ministry of the Economy, Finance and Industry. This honour recognises French ÂżUPV WKDW H[FHO LQ ÂłUDUH UHQRZQHG RU DQFHVWUDO skills which draw on a mastery of traditional or technically-advanced techniques.â€? In 2011, the Maison’s sought-after title was renewed for a IXUWKHU ÂżYH \HDUV - 08 -

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The workshops in which the Mains d’Or™ perfect their craft feature state-of-the-art technology, DORQJVLGH WUDGLWLRQDO DQG DQWLTXH ¿WWLQJV ,OOXPLQDWHG E\ WKH QDWXUDO OLJKW WKDW ÀRRGV WKURXJK the glass ceiling, the 360sq.m space is newly renovated, although the Maison’s history is clear at every turn: the original beech wood workbenches have been rewaxed and polished, and the interior design combines oak, stone, cast iron, steel and OHDWKHU WR HOHJDQW H̆HFW 7KH VSDFH LV XQGLYLGHG ensuring a collaborative atmosphere.

Only a fortunate few people may witness the workshops for themselves: hidden from view, the Mains d’Or™ are immersed in their crafts, and the doors remain closed to the public. However, LQ D XQLTXH WZLVW 9DQ &OHHI $USHOV R̆HUV D EULHI JOLPSVH YLD D ƒ YLUWXDO WRXU Âą WKH ÂżUVW RI LWV kind in the world for an haute joaillerie Maison.

Access the tour via the Van Cleef & Arpels website to explore the space and discover the crafts, as well as view additional gouachÊ jewellery designs, SKRWRJUDSK\ DQG FDSWLYDWLQJ VKRUW ¿OPV DERXW the Mains d’Or™ by Loïc Prigent. A fascinating introduction to a historically enigmatic world. vancleefarpels.com/ww/en/the-maison/782/ Virtual-tour-of-the-workshops

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‘Van Cleef & Arpels offers a brief glimpse of its workshops via a 360° virtual tour...’

Previous page, top to bottom: Maquettiste; Sertis Mysterieux. This page: Sertisseurs.

Revealing

except ional treasures Van Cleef & Arpels’ mastery is evident in these beautiful high jewellery creations, on show at the Maison’s new Abu Dhabi boutique in The Galleria, Al Maryah Island

Caresse d’Éole Fairy clip Midsummer Night’s Dream collection

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Dans les Étoiles earrings Palais de la chance collection

Zip Antique Palmyre necklace Zip collection

Dans les Étoiles necklace Palais de la chance collection

%XWWHUÀ\ 7ULFLV FOLS %XWWHUÀLHV FROOHFWLRQ

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CarrĂŠ de Sator necklace

Hirondelles necklace

Palais de la chance collection

Palais de la chance collection

Fleur SacrĂŠe bracelet Palais de la chance collection

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Sharing its passion As the luxury partner of some of WKH 8$(¶V KLJKHVW SUR¿OH DUW DQG design events, Van Cleef & Arpels is committed to supporting the thriving Middle Eastern creative scene

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s the community of artists and designers in the Middle East continues to grow, so does Van Cleef & Arpels’ involvement with their events and festivals. The Maison is renowned for its nurturing approach to creative talent, an approach that has seen it support artisan jewellery makers and timepiece craftsmen since it was founded in 1906.

Art Dubai, which has grown in stature to attract scores of international galleries to the UAE, enjoyed a successful relationship with Van Cleef & Arpels until 2012. The Maison held exclusive events and exhibitions in conjunction with the annual festival, celebrating the unity RI ¿QH MHZHOOHU\ DQG WLPHSLHFHV ZLWK the avant garde art world. At the 2011 event, Van Cleef & Arpels debuted its Les Voyages Extraordinaires high jewellery collection – a beautiful collection inspired

‘Van Cleef & Arpels is happy to give artists of the region the chance to unveil their talents to the public’ by the stories of the French adventure writer Jules Verne.

As of 2012, Van Cleef & Arpels has been a luxury sponsor - and partner - of Design Days Dubai, an annual festival which showcases both up-and-coming regional and international design talent. As a highlight, Van Cleef & Arpels collaborates with Design Days Dubai and Tashkeel on an Art & Design initiative designed to unearth talent. ‘Métamorphose’ was the theme of this year’s initiative, which encouraged designers to interpret the extensive nature of metamorphosis.

“For Van Cleef & Arpels, art is intrinsic to the spirit of the Maison and we are - 14 -

Below and top of next page: The new Van Cleef & Arpels boutique at The Galleria, Abu Dhabi.

Next page, top to bottom: Design Days Dubai showcase.

happy to give artists of the region the chance to unveil their talents to the public,” stated Alban Belloir, Managing Director of Van Cleef & Arpels Middle East & India, at the launch of the initiative.

The winner was Salem Al Mansoori, a full-time engineer, who received a week of tuition at L’ÉCOLE Van Cleef & Arpels in Paris as his prize. On completion of his course, he vowed to “explore new concepts, processes and techniques” in his design work, focusing on the creation of rings.

Van Cleef & Arpels also stages the

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annual exhibition ‘The Poetry of Time’, comprised of incredible museum pieces, iconic watch creations and myriad examples of genius artistry and movement innovations. Items previously displayed included Chatelaine watches from the Art Deco period, gentlemen’s pocket watches, table clocks, and many transformable pieces revealing Van Cleef & Arpels’ technical mastery.

Meanwhile, Van Cleef & Arpels is present at the annual Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition, and this year showcased a number of high jewellery

pieces, including the celebrated Palais de la chance™ collection which draws inspiration from legends, symbols, nature and the zodiac. Iconic pieces such as the Zip™ necklace and examples of the Mystery Set™ technique were also displayed – as well as the Mademoiselle Coccinelle diamond necklace and spectacular Scent of Jasmine necklace from the Bals de Légende collection. The timepieces on show included remarkable limited edition state of the art dials – each of them adorned with champlevé enamel, gold sculpting, hard stone marquetry, hand engraving and set stones.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ presence in the Middle East is designed to create a legacy WKDW ZLOO EHQH¿W ORFDO DUW DQG GHVLJQ talents. And as the Maison continues to support the blossoming art scene, its ties with the region are strengthened – invigorating both the work of the Maison and the creations of the Middle East’s budding talent.

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Explore the secret world of jewelry The Maison Van Cleef & Arpels has created a school in order to cast a light on the secretive jewelry mĂŠtiers.

Through innovative and varied courses, l’Ecole unveils, reveals and shares its savoir-faire, enabling enthusiasts to become enlightened amateurs.

www.lecolevancleefarpels.com

Majestic Cadeau Impérial Earrings, two exceptional pear-shaped D Internally Flawless diamonds – 43.14 cts.

Mystery Set rubies and diamonds.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906