Page 1

the

Maisonof

Enchantment


Boutique Van Cleef & Arpels circa 1910 Place Vend么me, Paris


History in the making Surrounded by intrigue, rich in romance, and glittering ZLWKWKHZRUOGœV¿QHVWMHZHOV Van Cleef & Arpels is truly a treasure. From a humble French boutique to an internationallyDGRUHGKDXWHMRDLOOHULH0DLVRQ MHZHOOHU\ORYHUVKDYHZLWQHVVHG its rise to success over the past century, enchanted by the vibrant, innovative pieces that are unveiled every season. On these pages, discover the story of its origins in the dreams of two Parisian newlyweds, XQLWHGE\WKHLUORYHRI¿QH MHZHOOHU\7RWKLVGD\ Van Cleef & Arpels’ designs are infused with the charm and VSLULWRIWKH0DLVRQœVIRXQGHUV Van Cleef & Arpels has MXVWRSHQHGLWVQHZHVW beautiful boutique in 7KH*DOOHULD$O0DU\DK Island, Abu Dhabi, the city’s latest luxury lifestyle destination. Always striving for H[FHOOHQFHWKH0DLVRQ has become a worldwide reference through its

Contents 2 It began with a love story... 6 Inspiring future craftsmen 8 Enchantment through excellence 11 Revealing exceptional treasures 14 Sharing its passion

unique designs, its choice of exceptional stones and its virtuoso FUDIWVPDQVKLSR̆HULQJ H[TXLVLWHMHZHOVDQG timepieces that tell stories and bring enchantment to life. Discover these exceptional creations at 7KH*DOOHULDERXWLTXH

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Van Cleef & Arpels The Galleria, Al Maryah Island, Abu Dhabi Tel: +971 2 643 20 88 vancleefarpels.com Cover: Clip Pivoine MystĂŠrieuse, Palais de la chance collection.

3URGXFHGIRU9DQ&OHHI $USHOVE\+27 0HGLD1RYHPEHU(GLWHGE\+D]HO Plush. Designed by Andy Knappett.


It

began with a

love story...

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I

n 1985, Estelle Arpels married Alfred Van Cleef – a perfect match, in more ways than one. Estelle, the daughter of a precious stone merchant, had grown up in an entrepreneurial family; and Alfred, the son of a precious gem engraver and diamond broker, was equally ambitious. 7KHLUSDVVLRQIRU¿QHMHZHOOHU\UDQVRGHHS that the pair decided to go set up a business of their own. They partnered with Estelle’s brothers Charles, Julien and Louis, and in 1906 opened Van Cleef & Arpels, a boutique at 22 Place Vendôme – a prestigious location in Paris that’s renowned for its grandness. 1HZVRIWKHERXWLTXHVSUHDGOLNHZLOG¿UHDPRQJ the upper echelons of Parisian society, and soon the city’s socialites were glittering with the two families’ opulent creations. Over the next few years, boutiques opened in France’s most exclusive resort towns – Dinard, Nice, Deauville and Vichy – and, after the First World War, in Lyon and Cannes too. As Europe caught its breath after the war, the demand for optimistic, celebratory designs was KLJK9DQ&OHHI $USHOVWXUQHGWRÀRUDDQGIDXQD for their inspiration, as well as motifs from historic DQGIDUÀXQJFLYLOLVDWLRQV¹DPRQJWKHP&KLQD Japan, and ancient Egypt. They also explored colourful combinations of the world’s brightest

precious stones: new pieces, dripping with lapis OD]XOLWXUTXRLVHRQ\[MDGHDQGFRUDODQVZHUHG VRFLHW\œVFDOOIRUDQHZOLQHRIOLJKWKHDUWHGMHZHOV and brought vibrancy into the trend for geometric Art Deco designs. In 1926, Estelle and Alfred handed much of their business to the next generation – their daughter RenÊe Puissant. As Artistic Director of the Maison, she took charge of Van Cleef & Arpels’ artistic direction, working closely with designer RenÊ Sim

‘Grace Kelly, Marlene Dietrich and Ava Gardner brought Van Cleef & Arpels to Hollywood’ Lacaze. The pair reinvigorated the brand with their enthusiasm and energy, and applied innovative twists to traditional techniques. Examples of their originality include the Ludo bracelet, with LWVĂ€H[LEOHJROGIDEULFEDQGÂąWKHÂżUVWRILWVNLQGÂą and the Passe-Partout, a snake-like necklace that transforms into a bracelet. 7KH0DLVRQDOVRPDGHLWVÂżUVWIRUD\LQWR watchmaking in the 1920s, blending practical WLPHNHHSLQJZLWKKDXWHMRDOOHULHFUHDWLRQV7KH Châtelaine design, in which a small watch dial was concealed in an ornate brooch, pioneered the

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IXVLRQRIMHZHOOHU\DQGFKURQRJUDSKVDQGE\WKH end of the decade women were accessorising their ball gowns with Van Cleef & Arpels wristwatches. A little later, in 1935, the Maison created its most famous timepiece, one that has been a permanent feature of its watch collections ever since: the &DGHQDVZDWFK,WZDVKDLOHGDVGH¿QLQJWKH marriage between beauty and functionality, the stunning symbol of a union that, as legend has it, was born of an idea for a watch suggested to the Maison by the Duke or Duchess of Windsor. Julien Arpels’ sons, Claude and Jacques, VRRQMRLQHGWKHEUDQGKHOSLQJLWWRH[SDQGLQWR international circles. 1939 was a seminal year for 9DQ&OHHI $USHOVDV&ODXGHVHWXSWKH¿UVW1HZ York boutique in the Rockefeller Center – but such optimism was short-lived. The Second World War broke out later that year, and the future of the brand looked bleak. As war raged, the Arpels brothers and nephews

remained in New York, while RenÊe Puissant tended to the Maison in France. But among the desolation, some of the brand’s most beautiful pieces were created. The Oiseaux de Paradis™ design, set with rubies and sapphires, was created in 1942 – a vibrant motif, still popular today. The Fourragère pin, patented in 1943, is an iconic piece RIUHVLVWDQFHMHZHOOHU\ After the war, Pierre Arpels, brother of Claude DQG-DFTXHVMRLQHGWKHEXVLQHVVDQGWKHVHFRQG JHQHUDWLRQṘFLDOO\WRRNRYHULWVPDQDJHPHQW Times were more restrained, but the Maison worked to perfect yet another unique piece: that of the Zip™ necklace, which was conceived in 1939 ¹DQG¿QDOO\¿QLVKHGLQ5HQpH3XLVVDQWœV daring design transformed from a necklace into a bracelet, using an intricate zipper mechanism – and it has been one of the Maison’s most iconic FUHDWLRQVVLQFH7KH¿UVWSLHFHLQ\HOORZJROG was presented to the United Kingdom’s Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef & Arpels’ timepiece collection also underwent a transformation: in 1949, Pierre Arpels created a round wristwatch with an ultra-thin case, a design which was celebrated in 2012 with the Pierre Arpels chronograph.

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Previous pages: Zip necklace/ bracelet, 1951; DĂŠcor Egyptien bracelet, 1924. These pages: Clip Chrysantheme; Clip Pivoine, 1937, P. Gries.

‘RenĂŠe Puissant’s first Zip necklace was presented to the United Kingdom’s Duchess of Windsor’ Over the following decades, the brand went from VWUHQJWKWRVWUHQJWKOHDGLQJMHZHOOHU\WUHQGVVXFK as the large chain necklaces of the 1970s, and the more pared-down designs of the 1980s. Van Cleef & Arpels remained one of the world’s PRVWGHVLUHGMHZHOOHU\0DLVRQVLWVOLVWRIFOLHQWV and collaborators growing to include some of PRGHUQKLVWRU\ÂśVPRVWLQĂ€XHQWLDOIHPDOHV7KH likes of Grace Kelly, Marlene Dietrich and Ava Gardner brought Van Cleef & Arpels’ designs to Hollywood, while the likes of Queen Sirikit of Thailand, Princess Fawzia of Egypt and the Empress of Iran Farah Diba made it a truly international name. ,QWKHODWHV9DQ&OHHI $USHOVMRLQHG the Richemont group, and began to create annual

FROOHFWLRQVÂąMXVWOLNHWKHKDXWHFRXWXUHFORWKLQJ designers. Key collections include ‘L’Atlantide’ in 2007, ‘California RĂŞverie’ in 2009, ‘Bals de LĂŠgende’ in 2011, ‘Couleurs de Paradis’ in 2012, and ‘Palais de la chance’ in 2013 – all of which have been worn by actresses and socialites all over the world. In 2011, when Her Serene Highness Princess Charlène of Monaco married His Serene Highness 3ULQFH$OEHUW,,RI0RQDFRRQO\RQHEULGDOMHZHOOHU would do: Van Cleef & Arpels. The Maison now has a presence in Europe, North and South America, the Middle East and Asia. As the world of luxury continues to evolve, the poetry and grace of Van Cleef & Arpels is eternal – and the spirit of Estelle and Alfred’s love lives on through the decades.

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he art of creating ¿QHMHZHOOHU\LVOLNH DSUHFLRXVJHPLWVHOI KDQGHGGRZQWKURXJK JHQHUDWLRQVIURPPDVWHUV WRWKHLUDSSUHQWLFHV 9DQ&OHHI $USHOVUHQRZQHGIRULWV LQQRYDWLYHDSSURDFKWRGHVLJQDQG FUHDWLRQKDVFRQWLQXHGWKLVWUDQVIHUHQFH RINQRZOHGJHVLQFHLWZDVIRXQGHGLQ ±DQGQRZDVSLULQJDUWLVDQVFDQOHDUQ IURPWKH0DLVRQ¶VFUDIWVPHQWKHPVHOYHV LQDGHGLFDWHGVFKRRO /¶e&2/(9DQ&OHHI $USHOVRSHQHGLQ 3DULVLQ)HEUXDU\ZLWKWKHDLPRI FDVWLQJOLJKWRQWKHVHFUHWZRUOGRIKDXWH MRDLOOHULH2SHQWRDQLQWHUQDWLRQDOSXEOLF WKHLQVWLWXWLRQZHOFRPHVERWKSURIHVVLRQDO DQGQRQSURIHVVLRQDOVWXGHQWVSURYLGLQJ WKRVHZKRDUHSDVVLRQDWHDERXWMHZHOOHU\ DQGWLPHSLHFHVZLWKDWKRURXJKO\XQLTXH LQVLJKWLQWRWKHLUKLVWRU\DQGFUHDWLRQ (YHU\OHVVRQLVOHDGE\DQH[SHUWWHDP RIDUWKLVWRULDQVMHZHOOHU\H[SHUWV JHPRORJLVWVDQGYLUWXRVRFUDIWVPHQIURP WKH0DLVRQ¶V0DLQVG¶2UŒZRUNVKRSV $OODUHSDVVLRQDWHDERXWWKHLUDUW±DQG

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‘The school casts light on the world of haute joaillerie’

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,QVSLULQJ

future FUDIWVPHQ Left: Exploring the history of Van Cleef & Arpels. Below: The embroidery of a craftman’s coat.

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Enchantment through excellence Discover the secret world of Van Cleef & Arpels’ haute joaillerie craftsmen, as they strive for perfection and innovation in every piece

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very treasured item that forms part of Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewellery collection is created by hand in the Maison’s Place VendĂ´me workshops, as has been the tradition for over a centrury. Jewellers, setters, lapidaries and polishers work side-by-side in this tranquil corner of Paris: known collectively as the Mains d’Or™, or ‘Hands of Gold’, they are among the industry’s most gifted artisans. The workforce totals just 40 men and women, all of whom have trained – or are training – for years to perfect their skill. True to the Maison’s YDOXHVRIH[FHOOHQFHUHÂżQHPHQWDQGLQQRYDWLRQ they dedicate their careers to the perfection of beauty – from the initial design sketches and mock-ups, to the casting and stone setting. This is a

space for innovation, too: alongside the traditional craftsmen, a dedicated research and development team works to perfect the Maison’s signature concepts, such as the Mystery Setting™ and Zip™ necklace, while exploring new avenues of groundbreaking design. 7KH0DLQVGÂś2UÂŒKROGVXFKVLJQLÂżFDQFHLQWKH ZRUOGRIÂżQHFUDIWVWKDWWKH9DQ&OHHI $USHOV workshops have been awarded the ‘Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant’ (Living Heritage Company) label by France’s Ministry of the Economy, Finance and Industry. This honour recognises French ÂżUPVWKDWH[FHOLQÂłUDUHUHQRZQHGRUDQFHVWUDO skills which draw on a mastery of traditional or technically-advanced techniques.â€? In 2011, the Maison’s sought-after title was renewed for a IXUWKHUÂżYH\HDUV - 08 -


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The workshops in which the Mains d’Or™ perfect their craft feature state-of-the-art technology, DORQJVLGHWUDGLWLRQDODQGDQWLTXHÂżWWLQJV ,OOXPLQDWHGE\WKHQDWXUDOOLJKWWKDWĂ€RRGVWKURXJK the glass ceiling, the 360sq.m space is newly renovated, although the Maison’s history is clear at every turn: the original beech wood workbenches have been rewaxed and polished, and the interior design combines oak, stone, cast iron, steel and OHDWKHUWRHOHJDQWH̆HFW7KHVSDFHLVXQGLYLGHG ensuring a collaborative atmosphere. Only a fortunate few people may witness the workshops for themselves: hidden from view, the Mains d’Or™ are immersed in their crafts, and the doors remain closed to the public. However, LQDXQLTXHWZLVW9DQ&OHHI $USHOVR̆HUVDEULHI JOLPSVHYLDDƒYLUWXDOWRXUÂąWKHÂżUVWRILWV kind in the world for an haute joaillerie Maison. Access the tour via the Van Cleef & Arpels website to explore the space and discover the crafts, as well as view additional gouachĂŠ jewellery designs, SKRWRJUDSK\DQGFDSWLYDWLQJVKRUWÂżOPVDERXW the Mains d’Or™ by LoĂŻc Prigent. A fascinating introduction to a historically enigmatic world. vancleefarpels.com/ww/en/the-maison/782/ Virtual-tour-of-the-workshops

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‘Van Cleef & Arpels offers a brief glimpse of its workshops via a 360° virtual tour...’

Previous page, top to bottom: Maquettiste; Sertis Mysterieux. This page: Sertisseurs.


Revealing

except ional treasures Van Cleef & Arpels’ mastery is evident in these beautiful high jewellery creations, on show at the Maison’s new Abu Dhabi boutique in The Galleria, Al Maryah Island

Caresse d’Éole Fairy clip Midsummer Night’s Dream collection

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Dans les Étoiles earrings Palais de la chance collection

Zip Antique Palmyre necklace Zip collection

Dans les Étoiles necklace Palais de la chance collection

%XWWHUÀ\7ULFLVFOLS %XWWHUÀLHVFROOHFWLRQ

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CarrĂŠ de Sator necklace

Hirondelles necklace

Palais de la chance collection

Palais de la chance collection

Fleur SacrĂŠe bracelet Palais de la chance collection

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n

Sharing its passion As the luxury partner of some of WKH8$(¶VKLJKHVWSUR¿OHDUWDQG design events, Van Cleef & Arpels is committed to supporting the thriving Middle Eastern creative scene

A

s the community of artists and designers in the Middle East continues to grow, so does Van Cleef & Arpels’ involvement with their events and festivals. The Maison is renowned for its nurturing approach to creative talent, an approach that has seen it support artisan jewellery makers and timepiece craftsmen since it was founded in 1906. Art Dubai, which has grown in stature to attract scores of international galleries to the UAE, enjoyed a successful relationship with Van Cleef & Arpels until 2012. The Maison held exclusive events and exhibitions in conjunction with the annual festival, celebrating the unity RI¿QHMHZHOOHU\DQGWLPHSLHFHVZLWK the avant garde art world. At the 2011 event, Van Cleef & Arpels debuted its Les Voyages Extraordinaires high jewellery collection – a beautiful collection inspired

‘Van Cleef & Arpels is happy to give artists of the region the chance to unveil their talents to the public’ by the stories of the French adventure writer Jules Verne. As of 2012, Van Cleef & Arpels has been a luxury sponsor - and partner - of Design Days Dubai, an annual festival which showcases both up-and-coming regional and international design talent. As a highlight, Van Cleef & Arpels collaborates with Design Days Dubai and Tashkeel on an Art & Design initiative designed to unearth talent. ‘Métamorphose’ was the theme of this year’s initiative, which encouraged designers to interpret the extensive nature of metamorphosis. “For Van Cleef & Arpels, art is intrinsic to the spirit of the Maison and we are - 14 -


Below and top of next page: The new Van Cleef & Arpels boutique at The Galleria, Abu Dhabi. Next page, top to bottom: Design Days Dubai showcase.

happy to give artists of the region the chance to unveil their talents to the public,” stated Alban Belloir, Managing Director of Van Cleef & Arpels Middle East & India, at the launch of the initiative. The winner was Salem Al Mansoori, a full-time engineer, who received a week of tuition at L’ÉCOLE Van Cleef & Arpels in Paris as his prize. On completion of his course, he vowed to “explore new concepts, processes and techniques” in his design work, focusing on the creation of rings. Van Cleef & Arpels also stages the

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annual exhibition ‘The Poetry of Time’, comprised of incredible museum pieces, iconic watch creations and myriad examples of genius artistry and movement innovations. Items previously displayed included Chatelaine watches from the Art Deco period, gentlemen’s pocket watches, table clocks, and many transformable pieces revealing Van Cleef & Arpels’ technical mastery. Meanwhile, Van Cleef & Arpels is present at the annual Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition, and this year showcased a number of high jewellery


pieces, including the celebrated Palais de la chance™ collection which draws inspiration from legends, symbols, nature and the zodiac. Iconic pieces such as the Zip™ necklace and examples of the Mystery Set™ technique were also displayed – as well as the Mademoiselle Coccinelle diamond necklace and spectacular Scent of Jasmine necklace from the Bals de Légende collection. The timepieces on show included remarkable limited edition state of the art dials – each of them adorned with champlevé enamel, gold sculpting, hard stone marquetry, hand engraving and set stones. Van Cleef & Arpels’ presence in the Middle East is designed to create a legacy WKDWZLOOEHQH¿WORFDODUWDQGGHVLJQ talents. And as the Maison continues to support the blossoming art scene, its ties with the region are strengthened – invigorating both the work of the Maison and the creations of the Middle East’s budding talent.

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Explore the secret world of jewelry The Maison Van Cleef & Arpels has created a school in order to cast a light on the secretive jewelry mÊtiers. Through innovative and varied courses, l’Ecole unveils, reveals and shares its savoir-faire, enabling enthusiasts to become enlightened amateurs.

www.lecolevancleefarpels.com


Majestic Cadeau Impérial Earrings, two exceptional pear-shaped D Internally Flawless diamonds – 43.14 cts. Mystery Set rubies and diamonds.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906

Van Cleef & Arpels Guide Nov'13  
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