Discover albania september 2014 journal

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September, 2014

Discover Albania

It’s already September The month of golden autumn.Nature offers the colors of a redish painting! The leaves covers the streets. The coast calms down from the chaotic tourism and gently offers it self to those who have waited out the summer month to enjoy by themselves only its solitry beauty. In Autumn Albania pleanty to local and foreign tourists, but we would set apart:

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September, 2014 1. Pogradec, the city that has inspired painters and poets, with his beautiful lake, authentic villages that sorrount it, generous and hostige people, its cleanes and its flowers; 2. A trip from Tirana to Pogradec; 3. The exquisite taste not easily forgotten of koran fish with nuts; 4. Rareand unknown places from most of us in the city of Gramsh; 5. The exposition of artist Simon Shiroka.

Pogradec, the most beautiful of autumn! Pogradec, the most beautiful of autumn! This city, “Albanian to the marrow” – as the great Lasgush describes it – “immersed in the bosom of the mountains like brains in a human skull”, on the bank of Ohrid Lake, is the place where everyone can enjoy nature, touch it and be part of it. The whisper of leaves, the tweets of birds, the green landscape, the boats, the swans and the willows make this poetic city one of the most preferred in Albania. New and old, modern and traditional coexist in harmony in the city without taking away from one another.

Pogradec is one of the most important tourism points in Albania. This city has a surreal light during all four seasons of the year: but we have chosen autumn to tell you about and why you should definitely go to visit. Pogradec lies in southeast Albania, on the south-western bank of Ohrid Lake. In the North it borders with the region of Librazhd, in the East with Macedonia, in the South with the region of Korca and in the West with the region of Gramsh. It is outlined by high mountains, extensions of Mokra Mountains, forming a stunning crown. On both waterside borders of the city, there are two very much visited attractions: the rocky extension of Lin and the village of the fishermen which bears the same name, while in the east of the city, 5 km away, is Drilon tourism point and Tushemisht village where innumerable crystal clean water springs flow from the bases of the hills.

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September, 2014 A city full of history The Area of Pogradec has been inhabited from the Late Neolithic period (6000-2000 years before Christ). Discoveries in Lin and Leska River give more credibility to this theory. In antiquity, the region of Pogradec was inhabited by Enchelei and Dassareti Illyrian tribes. Most likely, these tribes were able to organise a powerful state by building an entire system of antique fortifications, including the castles of Enkelana, Bausa, Seljana and Pelion. Archaeological excavations have been commissioned in recent decades in different settlements such as in BllacĂŤ, Tushemisht, Selca e Poshtme, Lin and in the Castle of Pogradec. Only 40 kilometres from Pogradec, in the mountainous area of Mokra, in Selca e Poshtme, there are 5 monumental 2400-years-old tombs, built at the end of the V century B.C. These tombs are among the most special tombs in Europe, as they are carved into the rocks. The Christian Basilicas in Lin village and the mosaic in the very same place as the basilicas date back to VI and VII century A.D. Archaeological excavations show

that the inhabitants of this area were engaged in agriculture, fishing and different crafts. They had trade relations with the neighbouring centres. During the reign of the Slav Emperor, Stefan Dushan, the city was invigorated and acquired a very favourable economic position, serving as a point of connection for the entire region. Many researchers think that is was at this time that the city was known by the name of Mokra which was later adopted also by its mountainous region. During the Ottoman invasion, the city developed rapidly as it traded many of its agricultural and livestock products. In 1878, Pogradec had 2.000 inhabitants who were engaged in agriculture, crafts and viticulture. The most widespread crafts were carpenters, tailors, wool-weavers and coppersmiths. At this period of time the city acquired it physiognomy as a trade and artisan centre with all the essential features of a city, similar to the surrounding region, such as Korca, Ohrid, Kostur, Manastir, etc. During the reign of Ahmet Zog (1930s) Pogradec was a Municipality.

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September, 2014 The beaches The entire lake shore, from Lin (20 km) to Tushemisht (5 km), is a big beach. The most famous is the beach lying along the city’s promenade. It is beautiful with fine sand and gravel. The shade of the nearby park provides “an

escape” from the sun during hot days. Another beach is Pjoska beach. Along the entire beach, from Lin to the city you can rest in the small hotels nearby. Between Volorekë and Tushemisht you will find beaches that stand out for their beauty and quietness .

Churches

The Mosques If you go to Pogradec, your visit to the city’s mosques will be hard to avoid. The city has two mosques, one is in the centre and the other one is in the Gorica neighbourhood.

Pogradec has the old Orthodox Church, called the church of Saint Mary and the new church, built with a special style. You can visit them any time, but you can enjoy the true atmosphere of an Orthodox Church during Sundays’ mass, weddings or baptisms.

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September, 2014 The monumental tombs of Selca They are unique from the architectonic point of view and the way they were built. They date back 400 years before Christ and are 40 km away from the city of Pogradec. Tombs similar to them were discovered only somewhere in Lebanon. They are situated on a high hill, above Selca e Poshtme Village.

They feature scenes of deeds of the Illyrian kings at war with the ancient Macedonians. Legend has said that in one of the buried ones is Kliti, the Illirian king of Pelion.

The Mosaics of Lin They are in the Lin peninsula and date back to the VI century before Christ. They are 22 km away from the city of Pogradec. Lin, the Byzantine mosaic from the VI-VII centuries, is the biggest in the Balkans, covering a surface area of 220 square metres. A visit to the nearby church will

unveil before your eyes an exceptional view of all the directions above the lake. Besides the surrounding walls of the church and the mosaic, you will notice an antique cistern, about 3 metres deep. The cistern was used to collect water both in the Roman and Byzantine periods.

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September, 2014 The Castle of Pogradec On the hill, above the city is the castle of Pogradec. Not too much has remained of the former castle, but the place is exceptional for all of them who want to see the lake surface from above. It is 789 m over the sea level. It was first inhabited in the V century Before Christ. At this time, the castle was fortified with protective walls. Once it was small with barn-style high buildings and it was used as a citadel for the surrounding region. The castle of Pogradec was considered by the researchers as an Illyrian-Albanian castle,

because life here continued until the formation of the Albanian nationality. The castle of Pogradec continued to be inhabited even during the Roman invasion, although not fortified and not with the same intensity it previously had. At the end of V century B.C. the castle was fortified again with walls and it served to the local population to protect from the barbarian invasions. Because of its good strategic position, it became once again an important habitation centre and remained so until the Slavic invasions in the IX century.

Where you should definitely go

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September, 2014 Drilon Its old name is Voloreke, and is 4 km from the city of Pogradec, on its southern end where a small river flows into the lake. The crystal clean streams and the landscape are amazing. All around there

are willows and deciduous trees. Swans add more to its beauty. If you admire nature, you can go to Drilon on foot, following the street from the city park along the lake shore.

Tushemisht Tushemisht from Drilon is well within walking distance. Tushemisht is known in the entire area for the great number of streams flowing under the village houses from the lake hills.

The village does not have a lot of houses, but the old XIX century church is very much visited by the inhabitants of the area.

Lin Today, Lin is a picturesque village on the shores of Ohrid Lake. The percentage of the Muslim and Christian inhabitants are almost equal. The church and the mosque, almost very close to another are the best indicators of religious harmony. The houses are almost all on the lake shores. Lin is not only known for its beauty, but also for its interesting history. Here you can sunbathe on a virgin sandy beach which you can reach after going through some pleasant gardens.

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September, 2014 Potkozhan It is a very interesting village in the region of Pogradec. The houses are very beautiful made of stone and covered with flagstones. The streets in between the houses are narrow and covered with

cobblestones. In the middle of the village there is the Church of Saint Friday with old graves that carry stone crosses carved with great skill. .

The Bridge of Goliku If you turn left on Qafa e Thanes – Tirana road and continue on the village road, you would be able to enjoy the picturesque valley of Shkumbin

River. Near Golik village you will see an ancient bridge dating back from the XVIII century, known as Goliku Bridge with three characteristic arches.

Near goes the Egnatia Road, one of the most renowned arteries of the Ottoman Empires. This road ended near Thessaloniki and continued to another segment towards Constantinople. The old

road can be identified from the big stones which we still find in the LlĂŤnga gorge, near the Valley of Shkumbin River.

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September, 2014

Lake Ohrid Lake Ohrid, along with the surrounding region, shines like a unique ecosystem. Because of its historic values, and its unique flora and fauna, the Romans from the time of Julius Caesar named it Lyhnidas (the lake of light). What makes this lake special is its old age, 2-4 million years old. It is considered to be one of the four oldest lakes in the world. The lake is 358 square kilometres and one third of its entire surface falls in Albania. It has an oval shape with regular shores and the beautiful and picturesque Lin peninsula. The Albanian shore stretches out from the village of Tushemisht to the village of Lin, with a shoreline of 88 kilometres. The lake has an average depth of 145 metres and a maximal depth of 289 metres. It is mainly fed by Lake Prespa inflows. It is important not only environmentally but also economically.

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September, 2014

Economy and Tourism Pogradec is a region with great potentials for developing economy and tourism. The city attracts a great number of visitors, especially during summer. Tourism developed early in Pogradec. In the 1920-1930s, the rich classes of the nearby cities, mainly from Korca and Elbasan, built the first summer houses. Since then, the culture of welcoming guests during the summer started to develop in Pogradec and in the regions. In the region of Pogradec is the Lake Ohrid watershed region, laying from Mali i ThatÍ to Lin, including the valley of Çerrava.

This area stands out for its characteristic landscapes, either agricultural or with forest vegetation and for its water surfaces surrounded by the crown of mountains, always very attractive for tourists.

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September, 2014 Transportation Pogradec is an important transportation junction. Through the city goes the Elbasan-Korรงa car road which connects the southeastern regions of the

country with Middle Albania and Macedonia and Greece. The region of Pogradec has a railway network too.

Industry and agriculture

The food industry is very much developed in the city. The factories of flour, wine, alcoholic and refreshment drinks, as well as food and vegetable preservation factories best represent this industry. The food industry is favoured by an agriculture, which is mostly dominated by fruits and

vegetables, forage plants and cereals. Viticulture is very well developed while chestnuts are becoming a priority. Cows and cattle are mostly grown for animal farming. Pogradec is famous for its honey quality. The tourism industry is also very much developed.

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September, 2014 Natural resources Pogradec is rich in forests and pastures which cover 27.000 hectares. The main types of trees are beech, oak, fir and pine. The chestnut forest is the green crown of Pogradec city and its lake, and it lies on a surface area of 1050 hectares and is still being regenerated. A great natural and tourism resource is the lake. It is famous for the Ohrid trout and belvica fish as well as for the lake eels. About 60 % of living organisms are unique in the world. Some of the water birds are the pelicans, swans, cormorants, ferruginous ducks, spotted eagles, eastern imperial eagles and wild ducks which feed on fish and other water organism.

Tradition and customs

In the area of Pogradec, the folk costumes are very diverse. A typical dress is the women’s costume from Mokra e Siperme, with white stones and embroideries on the chest, long and colourful wool socks. A typical costume from Mokra e Poshtme and Lin consists of a white vest with pleats and colourful socks with geometric motifs. A back cape, apron and kerchief were worn in Nice and Llëngë.

The most distinguished folk costumes are the kilts from Mali i Thatë, the costume from the region of Gora, the costumes of Mokra, and especially those from Radokal. Women and men dance separately. In general, dances in the region of Pogradec are accompanied by songs. Twin dances are characteristic.

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September, 2014 Climate and clothing The city is known for its Mediterranean alpine and pre-alpine climate. It is ranked among the driest cities of Albania in relation to precipitations. Snow

starts to fall early in the city, near the end of September and the beginning of October. Average annual temperature is 8-11 degree Celsius.

A trip from Tirana to Pogradec You can come to Pogradec from the air, from the Rinas airport, about 30 km away from Tirana, and then you should take the Highway (140 km) that goes east, through Elbasan. Pogradec has regular bus and minibus lines with the capital. The bus schedule is not fixed, but you can find transportation each hour of the day, from early

morning to late afternoon. The departure from Pogradec is at the Agjencia or “Axhensia” as the locals call it. Pogradec is the last station of the railway line that departs from Tirana and goes through the cities of Durrës, Elbasan, Librazhd and ends in Guri i Kuq.

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September, 2014 Food Pogradec is famus for its special food. Ten different dishes can be cooked only with the trout, the rare fish of the lake: with onions, trout on a fisherman pan, grilled, trout fillets, trout salad, trout on a stick, and pan-roasted trout with walnuts. Other dishes include fried belvica with walnuts, fake meatballs with garlic and yogurt. All the restaurants have European, traditional and oriental cuisine.

A characteristic drink is Buti wine, red or white, handmade by the locals with different varieties of grapes, such as Pamid, Muscat etc., and which you can enjoy in all of the families and restaurants of the area. In restaurants and bars you can also find and enjoy raki made of grapes, plums, mulberries and also drinks produced from factories with a long tradition in Albania, Macedonia and Greece.

The special dish of Koran with walnuts In all of the restaurants of Pogradec you can find trout cooked in different ways. The fish is cleaned, cut and coated with flour and then put on a baking pan. Then, it is sprayed with fat and roasted in the

After a while, hot water is poured in and the oven. food is left to simmer. Mortar crushed walnuts are then poured in and the food is left to cook for a few minutes in the oven. Crushed garlic can be added if you like.

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September, 2014 For 4-5 people Fish - 1 portion, Flour – 2 tablespoons Oil – 2-3 tablespoons Crushed walnuts * 2-3 tablespoons A little salt Lasgush Punch Lasgush Poradeci, the most famous poet of the city, made it a habit to have a long morning walk on the side of the lake. After, he would go and sit in the biggest hotel of the city and order something very special. Then he would write in his notebooks the poetries that made him famous. His order was: two glasses of strong raki from pearl grape, mixed with warm water and a little sugar. Since the time of the poet, the waiters have called this special drink “Lasgush Punch”. Accompanied by a strong Turkish coffee, the punch is good during cool summer mornings along the lake and during cold snowy days.

Gramsci the unknown rare country This small city, with kind, quiet, generous, welcoming and educated people, looks like a lonely swan, withdrawn from the inattention and inferiority of the time. Even though the tourism map of Albania does not have much information on Gramsh as a tourist destination, this city, not more than three travel hours from Tirana, offers much more to see and discover than what we have heard and read before.

Small Gramsh is indeed impressive. This is what you will have to say after visiting it. Even though it has a stunning waterfall it is not mentioned as much as Theth; even though it has many lakes, we do not know it as much as Lura. Its canyons are splendid, but not as known as Osum canyons are, and it has bridges as old as Mesi and Tabakëve Bridges.

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September, 2014 The invaluable treasures of Gramsh The Black Lake, created by ice glaciers, it is 4 km away from Lenie village and 1634 m above sea level. It covers a surface of 3 ha and is 1000-1200 m long and 2000-3000 m wide. It is surrounded by a green crown of beech and mountain pine trees. The lake has a deep blue colour and because of its numerous minerals underneath, it has curative benefits. Its location next to Komjani Lake, adorns even more its view. If you happen to visit this littleknown lake in August, you would be surprised of not being alone. On the contrary, the area is very much populated.

Dushku Lake It is a rare beauty with endless colours and, above all, an unimaginable place. A lake covered with the lily leaves which from time give you the impression of being in a fairy tale. Most of its surface is covered with reeds which create a

variety of colours where the golden, the green, the deep green, the blue and the velvet colour form Mount Komjani are naturally combined. The Lake is 1105 m above sea level. It is 22 ha and it consists of a very rich ecosystem.

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September, 2014 Sotira Waterfall It is southeast of Mount Tomorri and it is a treasure where you can enjoy two splendours in one place: the Sotira Waterfall and Sotira Cataract, hand in hand with one another but not copies of each other. The waters of the waterfall flow from two springs in Mount Tomorri and each of these attractions have its own personality and qualities. The heights of the waterfall vary from 520 m. The landscape of the mountainside, from where water springs forth, has several gradations.

This waterfall has an unmatched beauty which is better to be visited during spring and the beginning of summer because it feeds on underground water resources that cease to feed water after it reaches a certain level. Next to the waterfall is a green area surrounded by a beech forest and rich vegetation which gives the impression of being a perfect natural balcony from where the entire spectacular view can be contemplated and enjoyed.

Grabova If we pass around the Kopaรงi Rock we will reach Grabova e Siperme where fresh air, the green crown and the pastures, valleys and water sources are endless. In Grabova e Siperme, besides the impressive views of Mount Valmara and the surrounding mountains, you can see up-close its cultural and historic values. Grabova flourished during the Late Medieval Age. At the peak of its development it had 12.000 inhabitants. Three stone bridges, one of them dating back to the antiquity period, are vivid testimonies. In Mount Valmara there are three lakes with different sizes, 2200 above sea level, offering a relaxing view and stunning beauty.

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September, 2014

The castle of Irmaj The Holta Canyon The fragments of the remaining wall build with huge stones testify the ancient history of the Illyrian city of Kodrion. The city is located in Mount Tunja, 979.4 metres high. It offers a spectacular view of the entire horizon.

It is formed by the karst and erosion of the Holta stream. It is 3 km long, 10 metres wide and it lies in between Bardhaj and Kabash villages. Once you go inside the canyon you immediately feel that few people might have set there before you. With an impressive depth, on its mountainsides there are numerous niches that are not yet explored. The stalactites and the stalagmites have created a special place to be visited.

The Sinec Canyon It is 2 km long, 200 metres deep and 20-30 meters wide. Inside it, there are niches and caves which are not yet explored. With all the different forms nature has carved into the rocks, the view is as stunning as awe-inspiring. The numerous tubs with crystal clear and cold water surrounded by white-coloured rocks, give the impression as if it is paved with decorative stones from modern times. The white colour of rocks is a work of art in itself.

Inside the canyon there is an entire ecosystem with its microclimate. On one side, cold winds blow along with the currents of cold waters coming from the mountains of Poroรงan, while on the other side, a few metres away, warm thermal water spring forth with their characteristic colour and smell.

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September, 2014 Besides the canyon, the numerous caves on both sides (Tervol and Kabash) should be explored as

well as the ruins of their castles.

In the exhibition of the Artist Simon SHiroka In the context of the joint cultural and artistic calendar between Albania and Kosovo, the Ministry of Culture in Albania and the Ministry of Culture, Youth and Sports in Kosovo, the National Arts Gallery in Tirana in collaboration with the National Art Gallery of Kosovo in Prishtina, inaugurate the retrospective exhibition of the artist,

which will open on Friday, September 19 2014, at 19.00 o’clock. Mr. Erzen Shkolodhi, Director of Kosovo National Gallery, is the curator of the “Simo Shiroka - Retrospective” exhibition. The exhibited works are part of the private collection of Shiroka family. Simon Shiroka (1927-1994) was born in Prizren. He was a great master of filigree art.

Academic Eqrem Basha writes that Shiroka drew from the tradition, not only the mastery of processing silver and other noble metals, but also folk figuration and ornamentations, the ethnography, the psychology and the faith of our people. It is not only the totemism, the folklore, the mystics and the ornamentation of these people and region that makes his artistic creativity so distinguished. It is also his special artistic soul who longed and lived for his creativity. The exhibition will remain open until October 5, 2015.

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September, 2014

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