Horse journal online april 2014 uploads

. . .Online

A PDF of all the articles uploaded to www. horse-journal.com in April 2014

Rain Rot Treatments for Horses It thrives in warm, moist conditions, showing up as crusty scabs.

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ooner or later, you’re going to encounter a horse with rain rot. It’s found most often on horses maintained outside in times of high rainfall, especially if they have thick, winter coats.

If untreated, these spots will spread and often coalesce. Any horse can develop this infection, but it is most likely to occur in horses with compromised immune systems from malnutrition, old age or diseases like Cushing’s.

The organism thrives in the warm, moist conditions against the skin.

However, it can also occur as a result of bug bites, too. The same organism (Dermatophilus) also can cause severe heel dermatitis (scratches).

The lesions begin as multiple small bumps/scabs, which can spread and grow together to form large patches if not detected and treated early. The scabs are tightly adherent to the skin and painful to remove. They come off with the hair and leave open sores. Once the scabs are off and medications can

Because mixing the wrong ingredients together can worsen a skin problem, we like the twin-pack options like this one from Absorbine.

get to the skin level itself, healing is usually rapid (see below for help removing scabs).

Treatments

A variety of treatments can be used. Iodine-based shampoos and other medicated or herbal shampoos with tea-tree oil may work on mild, early cases, but when crusting is heavy the most they can usually do is slow the appearance of new lesions.

We’ve round the combination of EQyss Micro-Tek shampoo and Gel or the Absorbine Medicated Twin Pack Shampoo and Spray are both good for moderate cases, although they may not penetrate heavy areas of scab.

This is a bacterial skin infection.

For areas of thick scabbing, we like the application of a tea-treeoil based sheath cleaner, like Exapplying it, as it is very dusty. calibur from Farnam. Wet the area Sprayed-on original Listerine is and leave it on five to 10 minutes a popular treatment for mild to then rinse. Crusts/scabs may come moderate cases of rain rot. After off after a single treatment. The spraying, just leave the Listerine animal can then be bathed with on the horse. Remember, though, a tea-tree-oil shampoo and open that it can be painful on open skin, areas protected with a tea-tree-oilif there are open areas under those based cream. Note: Some horses are crusty lesions. Once the initial sensitive to tea-tree-oil, so do a spot sting is over, though, its mild anestreatment and wait 24 hours to see thetic and anti-itch properties kick if there’s a reaction before using the in. treatment.

A very highly effective is the Fungus antifungal dust, captan. Bathe the In the fungal category, horses can horse to remove surface dirt and get ringworm, a highly infectious any loose scabs then rinse a solufungus that can also be transmittion of ½ oz. Captan to 150 oz. of ted to people. Ringworm infections water over the infected areas. Pour are circular lesions that start as an it on or apply with a sponge. Scrape inflamed and scaly area, very itchy, away the excess, then let it dry on which grows out from the center. the coat.

Because of how easily it is spread, Some vets advise to just sprinkle ringworm is best treated with antithe dry powder on the horse while fungal medications. still wet from the shampooing. CapCaptan also works well on ringtan is an EPA-registered fungicide, worm, or you can use a topical intended for garden use, so be sure antifungal cream from your vet or to follow safety instructions on the a human product made for fungal package. Captan should never be foot or vaginal infections. used around the horse’s eyes, as it is The most severe form of ringworm a severe eye irritant. Wear protecis caused by the fungus Trichophytive gloves and eye goggles while tum, which can spread to humans.

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antimicrobial effects.

Some shampoos still include iodine but their concentrations are only half of what you find in iodine-based skin scrubs. Iodine’s drying and irritating effects can only be prevented by skin conditioners and aloe.

Phenol (carbolic acid) was the first disinfecCaptan has its critics, but there’s no disputing the fact that it tant used for surgeries, works. back in the late 1800s.

Trichophytum infections usually It’s also an effective local anesthetic cause itching, while milder infecin open wounds, but concern about tions with other fungal strains will potential for tissue damage has led not. If your horse has an infection to use of more modern disinfecthat looks like ringworm and is also tants. itchy, call your veterinarian. You Benzalkonium chloride is the acwant the heavy guns (prescription tive ingredient in hand sanitizers, remedies) to deal with this, and you diaper wipes and some dandruff don’t want to risk it spreading from shampoos. Triclosan is a widely horse to horse to you. used antibacterial with antifungal Very young, debilitated/malnouractivity as well. Another common ished and immunocompromised ingredient is PCMX (chloroxylenol), horses are at greatest risk for which is a rapid acting antibacteringworm. Bacteria as the primary rial and antifungal with very low cause of skin problems is rare, but toxicity. secondary infection can occur in any area with broken skin.

Bottom Line Other fungal species can also The best antimicrobial in the world cause problems, especially on won’t do any good if it can’t get at the face and at the tail base. They the organism. The ability to eftypically do not cause as intense fectively soften and release dense an itching. The lesions are hairless buildups is therefore important. patches with varying degrees of For treatment of difficult problems scaling but are not as angry looking like rain rot and heavily scabbed as true ringworm and are slow to scratches, we got the best results spread or enlarge. combining a medicated shampoo These less serious fungal infecwith a medicated topical spray or tions usually respond well to iodine cream to use between baths. We’ve shampoos, tea-tree oil products, found that combining products EQyss Micro-Tek system, and the with different types of active ingreAbsorbine Twin Medicated system. dients runs the risk of creating additional problems, such as chemical Medicated Shampoos burns. And, as much as we like Medicated shampoos aren’t everyCaptan for really difficult cases, it day shampoos, so save them for isn’t our first choice. when the horse obviously has a For that reason, our top choices skin problem that calls for antimiinclude a number of spray/shampoo crobial effects. If you need a daily combination products that we have shampoo, are favorites are Corona, had success with over the years: Orvus, Lucky Braids and Absor• Chlorhex 2X shampoo/spray bine. On the herbal end, again, tea• Ketochlor shampoo/spray tree oil is a good ingredient choice • Vetericyn spray for both antibacterial and antifun• EQyss Microtek shampoo/spray, gal effects. Aloe is a common incluand sion and helps by soothing and • Absorbine Medicated Shampoo/ encouraging healing rather than Spray.

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EHV/EHM, aka Herpes virus:

It’s Baaack . . . Keep Your Horse Safe This potentially fatal disease has been appearing every year it seems - and spreads.

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reactivates it. The virus is endemic, meaning it’s everywhere and most horses are exposed to it at some point in their lifetimes. Large outbreaks such as the current one are the exception, not the rule.

signs will you see

Depending on the exact type of EHV-1, you might see mild respiratory signs with your horse having a slight fever and that’s it. Fevers are often the first sign of illness.

Some horses will show no signs from initial exposure but can shed virus both then and later. Pregnant mares may abort.

Horses who develop the neurologic form will generally shows signs of weakness and incoordination of the hind legs. In severe cases, they will go down and may die or be euthanized.

HV stands for Equine Herpes Virus – in the current outbreak it is EHV-1. Horses can get other herpes viruses as well. Within the EHV-1, there are different genotypes or “family members.” Those different family members are more likely to cause abortion, respiratory illness or neurologic signs.

EHM stands for equine herpes myTreatments No need to stay home. Just use the right disinfectants in new places. eloencephalopathy, Since EHV-1 is a vithe neurologic form of the disease travel from the respiratory system rus, treatment options are limited. caused by this virus. For neuroto the uterus or spinal cord.

The goal is to support your horse by logic and abortion forms of herpes Herpes viruses are notorious for treating symptoms and hope your infections, the horse must have a causing an illness—maybe just a horse’s own immune system kicks large number of virus particles in mild respiratory problem—then in to fight the virus. the bloodstream, a condition called lying dormant within your horse’s viremia. Those virus particles then body until stress of some type vaccination The available vaccines decrease the severity of signs, may prevent any active infection and do reduce shedding of the virus. Vaccinat■ Vaccines are labeled to protect against the respiratory ing for equine herpes is not a “core recommendation vaccine” from form but not the deadly neurological form. the AAEP, but we recommend the vaccine for high-risk horses, such ■ The neuropathic strain of the virus differs from the as those that travel or are in barns respiratory and abortion strain by a mutation in one with a lot of horse traffic in and out. gene. The mutation allows the virus to reproduce Your horse’s health, age and lifemore rapidly, leading to blood and tissue levels 10 style are all factors to be considered times higher than with other strains of EHV-1. in making the decision.

Quic k Facts

■ Horses with neurological EHV-1 don’t necessarily show respiratory symptoms, but their nasal discharges contain high levels of the virus, and they can spread it this way.

■ Infection with the neuropathogenic strain of EHV-1 can be confirmed by PCR testing of nasal swabs and blood.

Minimize Risk

When traveling to events, practice safe hygiene. Do not share equipment between horses. Wipe your hands with a disinfectant before handling different horses. Clean all your horse equipment thoroughly

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between events. Grab The Right Product Different disinfectants are effective against certain organisms, so it’s important to select one with a broad spectrum of activity against viruses, fungus, and bacteria. It must also hold up well under the barn environment.

The least expensive choice is chlorine bleach, like Clorox. Chlorine bleach kills a host of organisms, but it doesn’t do well in dirty environments. Once the bleach begins to get dirty it isn’t as effective. It will also remove the color from wood, so you may get into trouble at a new barn.

There are better options. DuPont Virkon S (about $35/50 tablets or $85/10 lbs.), Pfizer Roccal D ($125/ gallon), and Pfizer Nolvasan S ($75/ gallon) all have strong germicidal and fungicidal properties and are made for use in agricultural/animal settings.

Our preference is Virkon S tablets to mix solution in spray bottles.

We also use Lysol spray for boots at the entrances to clean areas as the secondary defense.

You may also find Grainger/Zep and Odoban disinfectants at your local home-improvement store.

Carefully follow label and mix in correct ratio with water. Wear eye protection and gloves.

If your horse is exposed to an ill horse, you’ll need to follow through on quarantine to prevent any further spread of the disease.

Dots of Inexpensive Bling Koper’s Dots are simple, fun and ingenious.

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ho doesn’t want to have a little fun once in a while? Koper’s Dots make it really easy to add some “bling” to your tack - or virtually any piece of leather. And they’re pretty inexpensive, too, starting at $4 a pair.

We told our readers about these dots and their easy on/easy off reins stops three years ago. Since then, the company has exanded their line to include all Chicago screws are easy to use and secure easily. sorts of leather pieces and color choices for the dots, from leather-matching colors to flat colors to metallic or even jeweled choices. We found the quality high and the price reasonable, such as $19.95 for reins stops. Additional dots are sold in pairs at $4 and up. You can also get browbands, zipper pulls, leads and leashes in a variety of leather colors.

The dots connect and disconnect with Chicago screws, also known as screw posts. Western riders will recognize them, as they’re used on Western bridles to hold the reins to the bit and the cheek pieces to the bit (see photo of Chicago screw). They’re also used to attach a breakaway leather fuse to turnout halters.

The only tool you need to attach them is a straight screwdriver, although some people have trouble keeping the flat end of the screw still while screwing the post in. If that’s the case, grab something grippy—like a flat rubber jar gripper—and press it against the end to keep it still while you screw the pieces together.

We’ve had so much fun with our dots, we just had to tell you about them again!

Koper’s Dots make rein stops an easy-on, easy-off piece of tack (you can use leather-matching or colored dots).

More Dot Uses With a hole punch and some of the spare dots, you can add inexpensive bling to your tack (see browband photo). We also used the dots to identify tack, such as Dobbin’s We easily added inexbridle has a blue dot pensive bling to our on it or Red’s halter browband with the dots. has a red dot on it or use the shank with the pink dot. These dots are inexpensive, simple and fun.

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Stolen Saddle Protection: Saddle Network Saddle Network involves is a small tag, an online “filing cabinet” and social media.

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ike many smallbusiness owners, in 2009 Mary Braly was struggling to keep her business, Braly Woodworking, alive.

With the economy in decline, owners and trainers had stopped buying their custom-made tack trunks. But for Braly, of Copperopolis, Calif., necessity became the mother of invention— and the Saddle Network (www.saddlenetwork. com) was born.

Braly noticed that an increasing number of Put a Saddle Network sign on your tack room door, along with a lock. clients, mostly on the hunter/jumper show circuit, were asking if she could “We never realized what the theft She added, “Thieves range from fix their broken trunks instead of capacity was out in the field. As we the people in the industry stealing buying new ones. She wondered researched it further, we found out and selling back to other riders to why so many trunks—hers and there was a phenomenal amount of those who may not have any assoothers—were breaking, and she was theft going on,” said Braly. “We did ciation with horses but realize that a surprised to discover the answer: further research on the theft issue saddle can still get them a few hunsaddle theft. Thieves were smashand found out that it was prolific dred dollars at a local pawn shop or ing the trunks apart (at shows and and touched all equestrians and auction.” at stables) to steal the saddles and disciplines, from the professional to Braly and her staff considered other tack stored in them. the backyard enthusiast.” making an impregnable trunk, but decided that was impractical. They decided they needed to develop something that wasn’t too big or prohibitively expensive, something that anyone with a saddle could afford and use. They wanted a plan that was pro-active, a system that So far, since the company’s founding in September 2012, no Saddle prevented saddle theft, that didn’t Network member has reported a saddle stolen. That may be a sign of came into play only after the saddle the system’s effectiveness—it’s a sign that the saddle tags, the placwas gone. ards and the social media connection do deter thieves.

“We needed to come up with something that everyone could be a part “That’s how we judge our success—because if a bunch of alerts are of, to, first and foremost, prevent the going out that means it’s not preventing the theft from happening,” theft from happening,” she said. said founder Mary Braly. “But we haven’t had any alerts, because no Braly launched the Saddle Netone is taking the saddles that are tagged.” work in September 2012. It now has, according to Braly, more than 1,000 She said that the only alerts they’ve sounded have been tests, which members, all across he country. they run every six months to test the notification system.

Its members are hunter/jumpers, eventers, dressage riders, endurance The Saddle Network system also lets you share your records with anyriders, Western riders, trail riders one you want, like police or an insurance company. and more.

Can Saddle Network Find Your Stolen Saddle?

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Place the Saddle Network tag on the left flap, behind your leg.

How Does Saddle Network Work?

The Saddle Network operates using three elements: A tag (2.75” X .75”) riveted conspicuously to the saddle left flap that has both a QR (quick-response) code and an ID number specific to that saddle; registration in a secure online database for tagged saddles and for almost any other equipment or items (even pets) you’d like to record; and the instant communication of modern telecommunications and social media.

In addition, the Saddle Network provides all members with numerous placards and decals to place on your tack room door, barn door, front gate, trailer or anywhere else. These signs notify potential thieves that these saddles can be tracked. Braly believes that they’re a real deterrent to most thieves.

A QR code, or quick-response code, is a two-dimensional bar code in a square box that’s been in use for five or six years. You’ll find them on a variety of items, from U-Haul trucks to Jamba Juice coupons, and they allow instant identification or recognition using the camera on a smart-phone or tablet.

The tag Saddle Network tag becomes to your saddle as the VIN number is to your car. It should never be removed—if you sell the saddle, you should encourage the new owner to become an SN member and transfer the registration.

Even if the new owner doesn’t take your advice, the saddle will remain recorded with the Saddle Network.

If you have a QR code reader app (most are free; just search iTunes or Google Play, for example, for apps) and your phone or tablet reads the QR code on a tag, it takes you to the Saddle Network website (www. saddlenetwork.com). Once there, you can navigate to identify the owner of the saddle and see whether or not it’s been reported as stolen or lost. This kind of instant verification has never been available before for saddles.

So, when you sign up as a Saddle Network member and fill out the registration information for your

saddle, the staff mails you a tag to affix to the outside of the left flap of your saddle.

Registration includes the serial number, brand, size, color and other information for the saddle, but they won’t send you the tag until you record photos of the saddle from four angles.

Mid-priced and top-quality saddles made in the last 10 to 15 years will have a serial number imprinted under the panel (if it’s a monoflap saddle) or under the flap (if it’s a duo-flap saddle). Most saddles older than that, and some of the lowpriced saddles, will not have a serial number. But a serial number isn’t required for archiving the saddle with the Saddle Network.

Like An online Filing Cabinet

Filling out the registration information is a user-friendly process, and taking and uploading the photos is relatively easy, so they whole process requires 10 to 15 minutes (including taking the photos) per saddle. Each member’s section also allows you to record other tack and personal equipment, jewelry, furniture, antiques, farm equipment or more. “It’s like an online filing cabinet, a filing cabinet that you can

access wherever you are,” said Braly.

But the real power of the Saddle Network, Braly believes, is modern telecommunications and social media, especially Facebook and Twitter.

If you change your saddle’s status to “stolen,” the network’s automated technology swings into action. The SN computer sends an email and/or a text message to all SN members, plus a Facebook and Twitter alert that goes to a much larger group of people in and around the horse world. Braly said that thousands of people will immediately receive an alert, including numerous tack shop owners who sell used saddles on consignment.

“So now if you’re saddle is stolen, the word is out there—sort of like an Amber alert for your saddle,” said Braly.

And when the thieves try to turn around and sell it to another person or on at a tack store or auction, they face the danger of running into someone who’s just seen the alert that the saddle has been stolen. Plus,

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Braly and her staff have opened communication with the U.S. Pawn Brokers Association so that their members can be quickly informed about a stolen or missing saddle.

Bottom Line

The cost is low, at $6.95 per month for basic membership, $19.95 per month for professional membership, and $499.95 for lifetime membership. It deters prevents theft and registers your saddle’s serial number and SN number, along with photographs, a solid way to prove a missing a saddle is yours, whether stolen or lost.

If you wish, you can also record bridles, breastplates, girths, bits, halters and more. Photographs are the most important part of recording these items, as they are usually identical and rarely have serial numbers.

SN registration may be useful for proving ownership of all kinds of goods and valuables in the event of a disaster like a fire, flood, tornado or hurricane—from pets to tractors to antiques. Your records of these items, if they’re kept in a filing cabinet or on a computer, could easily be destroyed by such a disaster. But with Saddle Network, those records are in a secure database off site, so they’re safe.

Article by Performance Editor John Strassburger.

You can also put a Saddle Network sticker on your trailer’s tack room door.

Who’d Win The Kentucky Derby?

NBCSports put together a video of the last 20 winners Click the link here to see NBC Sport’s video of the last 20 Kentucky Derby horses virtually racing against each other.

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Stumbling: The Trip You Don’t Want to Take If your horse frequently stumbles, you need to put on your detective hat because it doesn’t happen without reason.

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t’s probably happened to you: you and your horse have just finished a good workout and you’re headed back to the barn on a loose rein full of love for all mankind.

Suddenly your horse catches a toe, and in a nanosecond you’re lying flat on your back looking at the sky or the quizzical expression on your horse’s face.

Was it a rare event, or is this happening more and more? When does that “bad step” become a problem?

How do we even define stumbling?

Mason’s Farrier, published in 1889, states, “All horses stumble, but there is a very wide distinction between a light tip or touch, and a stumble that will bring a horse and sometimes his rider flat in the dirt.”

Whatever that distinction might be, we’re going to investigate those missteps, and we’ll call it “stumbling” if it happens to either such a degree or with enough frequency to set off alarms. The problem should

not to be ignored; some of our best riders have suffered permanent disability and even death from a seemingly innocent bobble.

Have you read much about stumbling? There’s very little out there.

So we queried our team here at Horse Journal Online, asking them to weigh in on the subject. We especially wanted to know what, in their diverse and lengthy horse histories, they felt were the major causes of stumbling. We’ve included their responses; you might agree, or you may be surprised.

Footing

Let’s start with the easy one.

There’s little debate rough-going is a contributing factor to stumbling.

Even a change of footing from gravel to sand will take a few strides of adjustment. Any deep, rocky or irregular surface can trip up even the most agile horse if he’s had no previous experience with the

A Tale of Two Horses One spring years ago, I started two young geldings, Maggot and Boo. If they had been human students, Maggot would have been sitting in the front row of class, raising his hand and trying to answer every question. Boo would have been in the principal’s office, probably on Ritalin.

In spite of their polar personalities, they were progressing at pretty much the same pace. One day I added ground poles to their longeing routine, with a single pole placed at 3-6-9 and 12 o’clock on a 60 meter circle. Maggot, Eagle Scout that he was, studied the poles, dropped his head, lifted his back – and then proceeded to hit or step on EVERY pole, some with his front feet, some his back, oftentimes three out of four feet. He got a little better with repetition, but not much.

Even when I simplified the exercise by walking him slowly toward a single pole, there was a 50/50 chance he’d strike it with at least one hoof.

When it was his turn, Boo came out and was immediately mesmerized by my neighbor painting his mailbox. As far as I could tell, Boo took no notice of the poles or their placements. I started him in trot on the circle and he skipped through the whole exercise, never coming close to a pole and still fixated on the activity across the road. I tried to regain his attention by first doubling up the poles, then setting them at weird stride intervals, and finally putting all of them in a fan arrangement. It didn’t matter; totally inverted, he still danced cleanly through all my booby traps as if they weren’t there.

Boo blithely schooling gymnastics in the snow.

Maggot eventually learned to trot poles safely once he was under saddle, but it always required his full concentration. Boo, in the hands of a trainer, had careers in eventing and competitive trail; he remained a mountain goat in a horse suit to the end.

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It’s All About Balance Steve Krause, Contributing Farrier Editor and Cornell’s in-residence head farrier, feels correcting hoof imbalances can eliminate stumbling in almost all cases where pain, neurological disease and rider error have been ruled out. In his experience, heavy-on-the-forehand conformation exacerbates the low heel/long toe (LHLT) syndrome common in stumblers.

Once the LHLT hoof is properly balanced, Steve will decide on the need for corrective shoeing. He has had good success with either rolled or rockered shoes with good heel support and pads, if warranted.

Steve has worked on many horses with a history of stumbling that were sent to Cornell for neurological consultation; when he provides them with a balanced trim, the neurological signs and the stumbling disappear.

For a second opinion we contacted Mike Piro, John Strassburger’s farrier from Petaluma, Calif. A cuttinghorse rider, Mike’s clientele is mostly dressage and event horses. He, too, feels LHLT syndrome, either from poor conformation or poor shoeing, is one of the major causes of stumbling. (He also has strong opinions about bad riding!)

Long toes are a big cause of stumbling.

Mike explains that a correctly balanced hoof will follow a naturally symmetrical arc with each stride. In contrast, LHLT hooves will demonstrate an arc with a sharp rise, and these horses tend to trip just prior to hoof impact. Conversely, horses trimmed or shod with short toes and high heels will show a very gradually-ascending arc and then set their hoof down abruptly; these horses will trip at the beginning of their stride.

Other causes of missteps which Mike has seen include: “Pipe-panel” babies – horses raised in small dirt lots with no exposure to different footing; Over-shod horses – carrying unnecessary weight on their hooves causing fatigue. He believes “1 ounce on the hoof = 3 pounds at the withers multiplied by thousands of strides.”

Neglect – trying to eek out an extra week or two between trims or shoeing; he’s adamant horses be kept on a schedule.

Mike’s approach to eliminating stumbling differs from Steve’s. He feels rolling the toes and attempting to speed up break over with rockered or set-back shoes “just makes it easier for the horse to be lazy.” He, like Steve, insists on a balanced trim and then feels it’s up to the rider to make the horse move correctly.

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footing. A coddled performance horse never worked in anything but perfectly groomed and level conditions is ripe for a stumble when he’s asked to traverse novel grounds.

Performance Editor John Strassburger claims to have the least amount of experience with stumblers, in spite of the number of horses he’s ridden and trained over the years. He attributes this to his insistence on fitness and his use of natural, hilly turnout to familiarize all his mounts to uneven terrain.

Clearly there’s a trade-off between acclimating your horse to all commonly encountered ground conditions versus the risk of injury.

Associate Editor Margaret Freeman feels restricting your riding to only manicured footing does nothing to develop familiarity with less-thanideal surfaces when they unexpectedly appear – and they will.

Get out of that ring and slowly introduce your horse to mud, slopes, natural pasture and trails. You’ll both be more confident if you take the time to accustom yourselves to any terrain you could possibly encounter.

Conformation

A normal stride involves planting a balanced hoof with the heel striking just prior to the rest of the hoof, and the horse’s mass then swinging forward over that hoof. The foot is then quickly lifted and swung forward in preparation for the next weight-bearing stride. When the “quickly lifted” part is delayed, stumbling becomes a possibility as the horse scrambles to catch up with his body.

In addition to the hoof and veterinary issues we’ve addressed in side bars, the horse’s natural stance and stature can negatively affect break over.

Stop and consider how each of the following might delay a well-timed step: • downhill conformation • a low-set, heavy neck • obesity: horse AND/OR rider • back-at-the-knee (calf-kneed) • a hindquarters-only growth spurt.

Not only will a low, heavy and/or short neck contribute to stumbling,

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but because the neck is used to regain balance, horses with these faults are less likely to be able to recover from even a mild misstep.

Assuming an equal level of alertness, short-gaited horses are less likely to stumble than those with long, reachy strides. (Think how you alter your own walk when you encounter an icy patch.) Groundcovering “daisy cutters” are especially vulnerable. You’d expect warmbloods to be more susceptible due to their extravagant trots, but they normally show a marked period of suspension at that gait, which allows those feet to lift and swing through easily.

Type A’s vs Type L’s

We probably all associate hot, uberalert horses with agility. They seem catlike in their movement and have an uncanny sense of the location of every part of their body, including their hooves. Contributing Writer Beth Hyman runs the Squirrelwood Equine Sanctuary, a rescue facility in New York. However, she has mileage in many disciplines from hunters to polo, feels there are just some horses with enhanced proprioception. “They are naturally handy and surefooted,” as well as being “engaged” with their environment, she said. (See sidebar: A Tale of Two Horses.)

How can we help our less-reactive horses develop more body awareness? Ground poles and cavaletti are the classical answers. Linda Tellington-Jones and her TTEAM method describe many exercises that she feels activate unused neural pathways, teaching the horse to listen to signals from previously ignored areas of his body. Several approaches involving the lower leg and hind end could be very relevant. You can give the techniques a try without becoming a disciple.

Don’t disparage the Type “L” – Lazies, though. From a survival aspect, the horse who spent his day conserving energy was not the one at the back of the pack when pursued by a predator over a long distance; the horse whose tank emptied first was lunch. (Contributing Writer Linda Layne claims to have owned a horse so lazy it

The Big Elephant With all this talk of stumbling, one of Horse Journal’s Veterinary Editors, Dr. Grant Miller, could not help but weigh in on lameness as a principle cause of stumbling.

Did you know that statistically, about 90% of lameness in horses comes from below the fetlocks in the front feet? Of course, a great number of horses will have what Dr. Miller calls “house of cards” lameness in which they have little aches and pains contributing to lameness from different locations. But - for the stumbling horse, lameness originating in the front feet should be at the top of the list of potential causes.

If the horse stumbles continuously, having the vet place a lidocaine nerve block in one or both of the front feet should yield an instant result (at least for a long enough period to convince you that the stumbling is due to foot pain). For those horses with more infrequent stumbling, having the vet prescribe anti-inflammatories for a week while the horse is ridden can help to determine if the stumbling is due to pain.

All the Usual Suspects Since horse after horse has taught us that stumbling is a symptom of lameness, and that lameness comes from the front feet most of the time, the next logical step in the investigation involves determining what structure(s) within the feet are causing the pain. This subject could be a whole article in itself, so we will cut to the chase. Most commonly, horses that stumble due to front foot lameness have one or several of the following problems: 1.

Navicular syndrome/ caudal heel pain

2.

Ringbone

3.

Thin soles/ sole bruising

4.

Deep digital flexor tendon insertion tears

5.

Torn collateral ligaments of the coffin joint

6.

Coffin joint arthritis (independent of ring bone

Simple radiographs can rule out some of these problems, while others may require magnetic resonance imaging or “MRI.” Of course, there are several other potential causes of lameness that can come from the front feet, but they are less prevalent relative to the list above.

Bass Ackwards For those horses that stumble behind, especially when going down hills, make sure to check those hock joints since they are the most frequent cause of stumbling behind. Horses with arthritic hocks tend to not want to bend them, which causes them to drag or stub their toes, which leads to tripping in some instances.

As with the front feet, other potential causes exist, but the hocks should be at the top of the list when investigating hind end tripping.

Flexion tests +/- radiographs by the vet are in order to help determine if pain is emanating from the hocks.

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11

After

Before

This horse was sent to a training barn for work. When he arrived, he “walked like a duck to get his toes out of the way,” so the horse didn’t begin training until after the farrier visit. And, even then, the trainers gave him another week off before starting work. Note the long toe and underrun heel in the before photo. The farrier made as much of an adjustment as possible for one trim (after photo). It takes time to make drastic changes to a horse’s feet. Making too large a change at once can result in a sore horse.

would even stumble and fall to its knees in slow motion.)

Fitness

Fatigue and injury go hand and hand. We can add stumbling to that duo. A tired horse is a careless horse. It’s the rider’s responsibility to assess when to call it a day.

A wise horseman knows at what point an optimum amount of work has been done without unduly depleting the horse’s reserve. Stumbling occurs when “just one more flying change” or “one more shot at that oxer” drowns out the voice that says “enough is enough.”

Several widely-published injuries from stumbles have occurred in recent years to seasoned professionals who failed to consider the inexperience and/or lack of fitness in their young mounts. A horseman who retires on course or scratches a class earns our respect.

Referred Pain

Nearly all our experts listed “saddle pain” as a cause of stumbling.

Once you’ve made sure your saddle fits your horse, make sure you fit your saddle. Attempting to squeeze a large behind into a tiny saddle is not only unsightly, but it intensifies the pounds of pressure the bars place on a too-small area of the horse’s back. If you can’t fit the 12

width of your hand between your buttocks and your cantle or your thighs are obscuring your saddle flaps, you need a bigger saddle.

Clearly the back is a long way from the hoof, but pain in one area that presents in another is more common than you might suspect.

In humans who have suffered blunt trauma to the abdomen, complaints of pain in the left shoulder signal a ruptured spleen almost 100% of the time. After over 40 years in an ER, I can tell you almost every patient with an isolated UPPER extremity injury will present to triage limping.

Our farrier editors – Steve Kraus and Lee Foley - were united in linking stifle pain to stumbling.

And, it’s not infrequent to find stories of frequent missteps finally diagnosed as equine dental pain.

Contributor Susan Quinn rode a “stumbling mare” for 15 years with some memorable over-the-head catapults and a spectacular down the centerline near-crash. Only when the mare became lame did radiographs reveal probably longstanding pedal osteitis.

What this all means is that you, the horse’s owner, have to become both a detective and an advocate.

You need to marshal every resource to determine why your horse is stumbling: your vet, the farrier, and

your instructor. If they are all stymied, you have to keep searching beyond the obvious.

The Rider

We’ve already given you some assignments: balanced shoeing, a comprehensive vet work-up, all-terrain schooling, cavaletti, TTEAM and a correctly-fitted saddle. Now it’s time to look in the mirror.

Get an honest evaluation of your riding skills from an experienced instructor, not necessarily your own. Are you allowing your horse to fall on his forehand? Are you actually teaching him that? Some hunter and western divisions now require horses to show with as little animation as possible, heads positioned at the level of their knees and feet dragging. Are you rebel enough to ignore the trend and ask your horse to engage his backend and lighten his front?

We’ve all been to clinics where a demo rider is trotting around the ring on a sleeping horse with little puffs of scuffed dust following. The clinician gets on, shifts the horse’s weight off his forehand and transforms the horse into an Olympic prospect. That’s your goal.

Change those Type L’s into Type A’s, at least for the duration of your work session.

Even during walk breaks, your

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horse should be alert and working.

Sing “Seventy-Six Trombones” or something by Sousa, and keep that horse marching. (I whistle the piccolo part to “The Stars and Stripes,” which all my horses find entertaining, since I can’t whistle.)

An FEI rider friend confessed that every fall she’s ever had occurred on a loose rein at the walk when her horse caught a toe.

Bottom Line

Don’t overlook the legal ramifications when buying or selling a horse with a significant history of stumbling. “Does he stumble?” or “Has he ever fallen to his knees?” should be a mandatory conversation. Our own editor Cindy Foley once tried a horse at an upscale barn. The mare was fine on the flat, but fell on landing after the second jump, tossing Cindy into the dirt.

The owners “forgot” to tell her “the horse had been nerved and would sometimes stumble on uneven ground.”

It should be obvious by now that stumbling is a complex issue. Horses don’t want to stumble. (Except for those crafty guys who figure out stumbling makes you jump off and lead them back to the barn.) When they trip repeatedly, they’re trying to tell you the only way they know how that something is very wrong.

Hopefully we’ve given you much to think about and lots of ideas and approaches for your stumbling horse. Now you understand why one of the greatest epitaphs a horseman can give a beloved mount is: He never put a foot wrong.

Article by Contributing Writer Beth Benard.

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13

Is Adequan or Legend Best?

These injectable drugs have research and anecdotal evidence to support their use, even given as a preventative measure.

P

rofessional reining trainer Dianne Sommerfeld of 3D Performance Horses in Petaluma, Calif., knew one day her champion cutter and reining cow horse stallion Brudder would show signs of wear and tear. His long competitive career surely had caused some joint-related problems, but the heart of this stallion endured until recently, at the amazing age of 31, Dianne started to notice that Brudder was stiff on his hind end.

After long conversations about cortisone injections in his hocks and joint supplements, Dianne decided to try a Legend injection.

Within days of his injection, Brudder not only began to feel better under saddle, but he also started to act like a young energetic horse again.

She was amazed at how this simple monthly injection could make such a positive difference for her horse.

From reining to endurance, dressage to racing, horse owners in every discipline seem to find themselves in situations like Dianne’s, pondering the use of joint supplements.

Two of the most popular injectable joint supplements are Adequan and Legend, and both research and anecdotal evidence suggest that they can help horses with joint-related issues. More than that, they can help slow the onset of arthritis, making them a good preventative measure, as well.

Inflammation Defined.

No matter what you do, repeated trauma or stress to the joint during everyday riding, athletic training or performance will result in joint inflammation at some level in your horse. This is the start of “arthritis.”

Inflammation symptoms include: • Heat • Pain • Swelling • Loss of function.

To counter inflammation, joints 14

Unless you see a slow-motion video or photograph, it’s easy to overlook the amount of trauma a horse’s joints endure.

try to regenerate the damaged structures, including cartilage. But because cartilage has a poor blood supply, it regenerates slowly. In fact, the rate of degeneration usually exceeds the rate of regeneration.

Consequently, cartilage continuously erodes over time, leaving the ends of the bones exposed.

When that happens, bone reacts by adding extra bone, called “bone spurs.” That’s osteoarthritis, or inflammation in a joint with permanent bone remodeling. Once new bone production begins in your horse, it won’t stop.

Can it be preventED? There are thousands of research articles regarding the use of joint supplements in horses, and true to form, many contradict one another. This can make it difficult for an owner to decide whether or not to endure the expense of theses products.

However, one universally agreed upon point is this: Joint supplements do far more to prevent inflammation and joint breakdown than they do to treat it once it has started. In other words, don’t wait until your horse has a problem to start using joint supplements.

joint stiffness. There are dozens of indicators that a problem has developed, but the most common are: • Lameness • Decreased range of motion • Swelling /excess fluid in a joint • Pain reaction to flexion tests • Abnormal joint shape/contour • Reluctance to perform • Agitated or unhappy behavior • Unwillingness to hold a gait (especially cantering) • Difficult for the farrier.

Signs or no signs, we feel it’s a good idea to give your horse a joint

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supplement now because it may well prolong the usable life of his joints. They’re expensive, though, and many people need more justification. That’s understandable.

What joint supplements do. When horse owners see

components such as hyaluronan, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and chondroitin in diagrams of cartilage, it seems intuitive to supple-

ment a horse with them since they appear to be “building blocks” to cartilage structure. Unfortunately, it’s not that simple.

Think of cartilage like a tree. The roots, trunk and branches can all be represented by hyaluronan, GAGs and chondroitin. However, if a tree falls down (analogous to cartilage being damaged) simply throwing pieces of trees on top of the fallen trunk will not make it regrow. So

what are these joint supplements doing?

Joint supplements mainly function as anti-inflammatory agents throughout the body. Since joints in constant use always have some degree of inflammation, it makes sense to give a joint supplement on an ongoing basis to counter the inflammation.

Legend and Adequan. Vet-

The New Guy: Pentosan How pentosan and PentAussie compare to Adequan and Legend injections for arthritis.

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e think it’s important to discuss a third injection that is a strong option in the fight against arthrtitis. Pentosan is a nutraceutical with impressive anti-inflammatory properties. It works along the same lines as all of our other joint supplements: It helps to combat inflammation by stopping the release, or preventing the action, of inflammatory mediators.

Some studies have found it to be 10 times as potent as other joint supplements in stopping inflammatory mediator releases. But, you may ask, do these laboratory observations transfer over into the real world and to horses? Yes! Pentosan is currently approved for use as a post-surgical joint lavage. This means that if a surgeon opens up a joint (arthrotomy), he or she can squirt pentosan all over it just before joint closure. Even though this is the official label use, thousands of veterinarians worldwide use pentosan systemically via intramuscular injection as a general joint supplement. It’s available in the United States by prescription only, and some veterinary distributors (such as MWI, Inc.) will sell it to veterinarians. It is given intramuscularly, usually at the rate of 1 dose per week for four weeks, then backing off to once monthly.

A particularly popular brand of pentosan is PentAussie (www.matrixanimalhealth.com). It’s a good product because it has been cleared for distribution by the Australian equivalent of the FDA, in other words, it is NOT compounded.

PentAussie is also attractive because it comes joined with an injectable form of glucosamine. In essence, you’re getting two joint supplements for the price of one. PentAussie comes in individual 12 cc vials (12cc constitutes one dose) that should range around $60.

This puts it between Adequan ($50 per vial) and Legend ($90 per vial).

Overall, both lab research and owner testimonial indicate that pentosan does combat joint inflammation and improve performance. Why the “overall”? Because, just like every other joint supplement on the market, it works better in some horses than in others. But this is more likely a function of the horse it’s given to than the product itself.

If you recall, inflammation is governed by hundreds of chemical mediators. The drug Legend may knock out some of them, and Adequan may take care of others, while pentosan has an affinity for a different group.

The ability of any given joint supplement to work depends largely on whether or not the inflammation the horse is experiencing is mediated by the particular set of inflammatory mediators that the supplement targets.

Of course, dose amount and frequency also influence an injectable joint supplement’s ability to show results in a sore horse.

Bottom Line. Pentosan is another type of injectable systemic joint supplement available on the market.

Do your homework to determine whether or not the pentosan that you are using is compounded or “approved.” Beware of the dangers of compounded medications, especially injectable ones! The risk is to high, in our opinion.

Pentosan may work in your horse (depending on the chemical mediators that predominate his inflammation) and is worth a shot if you are experiencing ongoing lameness or performance issues that would require a joint supplement. You may also want to consider switching to it if you are getting lackluster results with your current joint supplement.

It’s available by prescription, so consult your veterinarian to see if it is the right fit for your horse.

Article by Contributing Veterinary Editor Grant Miller DVM.

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15

erinarians frequently recommend Legend and/or Adequan, possibly because they’re injected into your horse, rather than fed. That means they bypass digestion and absorption and get directly into your horse’s body, making them potentially more effective. They’re also FDA-approved.

Many folks prefer Adequan over Legend because it costs less and is easier to administer. Adequan is polysulfated glycosaminoglycan (PSGAG), which is proven to have an anti-inflammatory effect in the body. It’s a prescription item, administered intramuscularly and usually involves a loading dose regimen initially and then tapers off to one injection per month.

Adequan (seven vials) sells for around $280 or $40 per injection.

Chances are you can give it to the horse yourself.

If you consider it at $40/month, it’s relatively low compared to Legend or to most oral supplements.

Adequan is safe. Few reactions or side effects have been reported, and horses seem to tolerate the 5cc injection well. It’s legal for most competitions and clients who use it usually report improvements in

their horse’s movement and performance within a couple of weeks.

Legend is also a prescription injectable. It consists of 4 ccs of hyaluronan given intravenously. It can be given as a series of loading doses like Adequan, and it eventually will also taper off to one injection per month for most horses.

Because it must be administered intravenously, in most cases, you’ll need a vet to give it. Herein lies one of the challenges.

Legend can be purchased in a six pack, which is competitively priced at around $468 (or $78 per dose).

That is almost twice the cost of Ad-

equan and still doesn’t include the costs involved with the vet coming out and giving the injection.

For those who wish to try intravenous injections themselves, there can be serious reactions to Legend if it is accidently injected into an artery rather than a vein. It’s best given by someone skilled in intravenous injections.

Legend also has an excellent antiinflammatory effect in the body and is legal for most competitions.

Legend works within days of it being given, which makes it a great last-minute choice to help tune a horse up for a show.

Bottom Line. You can feel confident using either Legend and/or Adequan, although we’ve seen slightly more noticeable results with Legend than with Adequan.

Some research indicates that the two given in conjunction will have a much greater positive effect in your horse than if you just used one or the other alone.

Whatever you decide, being proactive about joint supplements appears to be wise. Oral or injected, joint supplements do far more to prevent osteoarthritis than they do

Preventative Management Two major factors that will influence the health of your horse’s joints are weight and movement. If your horse is overweight, each pound will create a noticeable strain on joints. It’s absolutely vital to keep your horse at an ideal weight. We suggest between a 5 and a 6 on the Henneke Body Condition Scale, which runs from 1 (extremely emaciated) to 9 (extremely obese).

See http://www.kentuckyhorse.org/hennekebody-condition-scoring for further information.

Be sure you find someone who can be objective about your horse’s weight. Much confusion exists as to when a horse is at the right target weight.

Access to turnout makes a huge difference in joint health. It’s no secret that bodies in moRelaxing hacks after a work are good for mind and body, horse and rider. tion tend to stay in motion. When we make our horses stand in a stall for extended periods, they stiffen up quite a bit. This stiffness represents an unnatural, unhealthy state in their joints. If a horse is allowed to move about freely and constantly, the joints are much happier.

Finally, don’t neglect proper warm-up and cool-down practices. They’re also an important part of joint health.

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Legend vs. Adequan vs. PentAussie LEGEND

ADEQUAN

PENTAUSSIE

Chemical agent

Hyaluronan

Polysulfated glycosaminoglycan

Pentosan polysulfate and Nacetyl glucosamine

FDA Approved?

Yes

Yes

Not for arthritis

Competition Legal?

In most cases

In most cases

Yes

Prescription Required?

Yes

Yes

Yes

Cost

$90 per vial

$50 per vial

$60 per vial

Route of Administration

Intravenous (may require veterinary help)

Intramuscular (horse owner may be able to inject)

Intramuscular (horse owner may be able to inject)

Loading Dose

Recommended

Recommended

Recommended

Frequency

Once monthly

Once monthly

Once monthly

Ease of use

Difficult due to IV route

Relatively easy

Relatively easy

Noticeable results

Days

One to two weeks

One to two weeks

Oral Or Injectable? Which Is Best?

Most of us use oral joint supplements because they’re available without a prescription or because we prefer not to give injections.

Although the risk of having a bad reaction or an infection from an injection is relatively low, it can happen. In addition, about a third of horses jump or twitch when poked with a needle. All this makes feeding a supplement preferable. And maybe it is for you.

However, you should also consider that:

Radiograph of a horse carpus (knee). Bone spurs can form on the edges of the joint space and cause pain.

to treat it once it has started.

Article by Grant Miller, DVM, Contributing Veterinary Editor.

• Oral joint supplements cost more than injectable ones (sometimes by over $2 per day).

• The digestive process can substantially lower the amount of a fed supplement actually getting into the body (a phenomenon known as bioavailability), meaning money in the manure pile.

• The biggest downside of an oral supplement is the dreaded concept that it might not contain what the label claims. Because joint supplements are classified as nutraceuticals, the FDA doesn’t verify label claims, and so it’s a matter of trust (products from members of the National Animal Supplement Council, or NASC, may be audited—see www.nasc.cc or call 760-751-3360).

• The efficacy of oral or injectable varies on a horse-by-horse basis. Adequan may work wonders in one horse, while oral glucosamine helps another. Owners may try an oral joint supplement for three months, and then try an injectable one to see if it yields better results. In other words, finding the right choice can be a long process.

Note: If you’re decide to stop your nutraceutical to see if it really “works,” be sure you’re aware that it can take up to six weeks for the product to be completely out of your horse’s system. Consider, too, that the biggest benefit of these products is as a preventative.

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17

Horse Pal Remains Our Top Fly Trap Choice The EPPS trap caught more flies, but we didn’t like all the work it took.

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ith 350 species of horse flies in North America, no area of the country escapes this plague. And the horse fly is no sissy. The female is responsible for the transmission of equine infectious anemia (EIA—the thing Coggins tests look for) and for the painful biting and blood-sucking action that drives your horse crazy.

She laughs at herbal repellents.

Even heavy-duty chemical sprays are but a brief deterrent.

A single female horse fly lives for about four weeks and produces five to six batches of eggs, with each batch containing between 100 and 1000 eggs. That’s scary. If you could just locate those females and wipe them out, your horse would have a much more enjoyable summer. Fly traps can help you do that, and we found two good choices.

The Horse Pal fly trap works on the theory horse flies are “sight feeders.” This means they find their victims by recognizing their shape.

The Horse Pal’s large, swinging shiny ball looks (to a horse fly, anyway) like the rear end of a horse.

You might laugh, but we’ve caught a bunch of flies in that trap.

The EPPS trap operates on a similar principle, except the horse-like components are large black sheets of polypropylene tarp with open areas underneath, much like the side of a horse might appear to a horse fly.

The Horse Pal traps the flies in a clear jar at the top of the escape route where they decompose in sunlight. The EPPS uses plastic panels that deflect the escaping flies into water where they drown.

The water is treated with dish soap, breaking the surface tension of the water and preventing the flies from swimming out of the catch pan.

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The EPPS trap requires regular attention. You need to keep the trays filled with water and dish soap, and you must remove dead flies every 48 hours.

This is a slightly revolting task that can’t be ignored. If the dead insects start piling up, the dazed flies—apparently recovering quickly from the traumatic brain injury sustained when ricocheting off the plastic—can use the accumulating insect bodies to escape their watery death.

Location Matters

We found the Horse Pal trap required little effort to use.

Placement of the traps is important, as you want to target the prime spots. We placed the traps near where the horses normally congregate, with mown grass underneath, and safely out of the reach of curious equines. Most importantly, there was a good “sight” line, away from woods, buildings or obstructions.

The EPPS maker claims it will trap one pound of horse flies a day and 80% of all biting flies. The Horse Pal manufacturer makes no numerical predictions, although we had used that trap for several prior years.

Horse Pal sent us an unpublished two-year study by Mike Stringham, an entomologist at North Carolina State University, that showed Horse Pal and EPPS caught similar numbers of flies the first year. The second year, the Horse Pal caught more flies than the EPPS. However, the study does not state whether or not they replaced the plastic deflectors on the EPPS for the second year.

Maintenance

Finding the most productive trapping spot is a challenge, but both manufacturers agree that nothing’s more important. Be prepared to experiment. The difference of even just a few feet can dramatically change your results. Both traps claim to attract deer flies, but we never caught any, as our traps were placed well away from wooded areas, as instructed.

In an attempt to see exactly how important placement was to catch volume, we loaned out the original Horse Pal to a horse owner who reported she had many horse and deer flies. She reported poor catches, in spite of moving the trap to several locations on her property.

However, when we investigated further, we noted that there was an active machine-repair shop on the premises, and fumes like these will discourage flies in the area. This reminded us how important location is in setting the trap.

We noted many more horse flies around our horses when they left the trapping area and came down to the gate to be stabled for the night.

We thought moving the Horse Pal to the gate area would take care of that problem, but we trapped only a few. When the horses left the area, so did the flies, underlining the importance of placing the traps near the herd’s normal loafing spot.

Bottom Line

Both these traps will, with consistent proper use over the years, reduce the overall number of horse flies on your property. We believe they are worth the investment.

If you decide to invest in a fly

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trap, figure out if you have an ideal location for trapping and if you’re willing to do whatever it takes to find one. Nothing is more important in catching flies than location.

Next, ask yourself how much time you’re honestly willing to spend on maintenance. If you’re a “set it and forget it” type, Horse Pal is for you.

If all that matters is body count, and you don’t mind tending to the trap every day or so—and going through the effort of moving it until you find the ideal trapping spot— the EPPS might be the one for you.

When all’s said and done, we admit we are the “set it and forget it” type, so the Horse Pal is our top choice.

Article by Beth Benard, Horse Journal Contributing Editor

The EPPS fly trap is a large device that requires you use T posts to anchor it.

Biting-Fly Traps HORSE PAL

EPPS

Assembly

Easy. Assembly took 36 minutes.

Slightly confusing. Required 2 ½ hours to build, including T-post pounding.

Effectiveness

We got 96 horse flies in an 84-hour period. Flies die and degrade quickly in the plastic container exposed to full sun. The odor of decomposition, which we couldn’t detect, did attract cadaver flies, which were also trapped and killed.

We got 502 total flies (including 390 horse flies) in the same 84-hour period as the Horse Pal. And yes, a few were beneficial insects. To our surprise, however, our second largest category was Japanese beetles. Horseline claims the EPPS also kills many mosquitoes, but because they are small and decompose quickly, they weren’t present for our “body count.” It stands to reason, however, a stagnant pool of water would attract egg-laying mosquitoes.

Comments

Odorless, chemical-free, no noise, no bait or scent lure.

Withstood a 56 mph wind with no damage or shifting of position. Can be carried intact by one adult, although it’s easier with two. It’s secured by a small step-in stake, which can be pulled out of the ground with minimal difficulty and taken to another spot.

Slight odor of decay, which worsens if water in trays stand more than a few days. Chemical-free, no noise, no bait or scent lure. Withstood a 56 mph wind, although there was a small “tsunami” in the trays and dead insects were washed out. This occurred with every rain significant enough to overflow the trays. Must disassemble unit to move it. Requires accuratelyplaced 7-foot T-posts to hold the trays and panels. Horseline tells us a more portable trap will soon be available.

Maintenance

Must empty the plastic jar when the dead flies pile up to ½ the depth of the screen cone. During our trial, that was only three times the summer, which we believe was due to the rapid rate of decomposition occurring in the jar.

The water trays need to be refilled due to evaporation or replaced if the water gets funky. In our test farm’s high precipitation area, the trays only needed refilling due to evaporation four times. Trays need to be cleaned of dead, drowned insects every 48 hours, which we did. A handy aquarium net is provided. Horseline recommends replacing the clear plastic sheets every year or so, depending on the amount of sun exposure ($7.95 for a set).

Price

$280

$335, plus four seven-foot T-posts, which cost us $22

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19

Managing Cranky Mares

round, but predominantly will be active when days are long. So, between March and September, most mares are in full-swing heat cycles. Because mares gestate for about 335 days (11 to 12 months), it makes sense that they would be most sexually active during the warmer seasons - not only pring is in the air as the so that their offspring will fare buds and blossoms poke well in mild climate, but also their way out of the thaw because food is most plentiand the sun lingers in the afterful in the spring and summer noon sky. For many, spring is when the mare needs to be a time of jubilance and appreproducing milk. ciation for outdoor recreation Unlike humans who experiespecially with horses! Winter ence a menstrual cycle, mares coats have all but shed, and it’s function on an estrous cycle time to hit the trail or head to that is dominated by alternata show. ing waves of estrogen and However, for some mare ownprogesterone, the two sex horers, spring marks the beginning mones instrumental to reproof a cyclical battle to achieve duction. The average equine harmony amid a hormonal estrous cycle is 21 days, with roller coaster. In this article, 5 to 7 days of estrogen domiwe’ll discuss ways to manage nance called estrus (“in heat”) the mare in heat , so you can and 14 to 17 days of progesterenjoy a smooth ride. one dominance termed diestrus (“out of heat”). The two What’s going on in major phases of the cycle are there? separated by ovulation, when The mare’s reproductive the egg erupts from the ovary system can be active all year to begin a migration through Is this the look you get in the spring from your cranky the uterine tract. mare?

During the time of the migration, Identify The Stage of Your Mare’s Heat Cycle the tract environment changes so that conditions are optimal for Stage of Heat Signs of Each Stage Significance to Conception fertilization and subsequent conCycle ception. The chart here depicts the Early heat (Day 1-3) Mixed signals. She will squeal The mare wants to excite the stallion and rise and fall of the predominant and squirt urine, but will kick increase his libido. She needs to keep him hormones involved in the mare heat or move away if a stallion tries interested, but not let him breed quite yet cycle. Kind of looks like that rollerto mount. on account of her egg not ovulating. coaster, doesn’t it?

We have more tools at hand then ever before.

Unfortunately, there is no one-size-fits all solution.

S

Full heat (Day 4-5)

The mare will be fully receptive to a stallion. She will give off all the signals such as lifting her tail, squatting and squirting urine, plus she will stand still to be mounted and bred.

At this stage, the egg is near ovulation.

Having sperm in the uterine tract at this time will maximize chances for conception.

Late Heat (Day 6-7) (Some mares do not show signs of late heat.)

Mare will again give off mixed signals just as in early heat.

Some will still submit to being mounted and bred by aggressive stallions.

While it’s far less likely, egg fertilization can take place if sperm is introduced into the uterine tract several hours after ovulation.

This behavior may allow for that.

Out-of-Heat

The mare is back to wanting nothing to do with the stallion.

If he tries to engage, she will move away, pin her ears and kick.

At this stage, the embryo is touring through the uterine tract, sending out chemical signals to the mare to let her know that she’s pregnant. This in turn alters the uterine environment to be one conducive to developing a fetus. If the mare is continually bred at this point, it would be counterproductive, disruptive and traumatic, hence the behavior.

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Signs of Heat

Estrus behaviors can vary from subtle to embarrassingly blatant.

These are the more typical behaviors associated with being in heat.

Subtle Signs of Heat: • Slight lifting of tail at rest and/ or when horses walk by • Turning haunches towards other horses or people • Increased frequency of urination • Occasional vocalization (squealing) when touched in perianal or perivulvar area • Throws head and moves away

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when touched in flanks/ belly • Herd-bound more than usual.

Subtle Signs of Heat: • Squatting and urinating frequently • Vulvar “winking” in which the distal portion of the vulva opens and closes • Squealing and/or threatening to kick when touched • Arching back and hopping when brushed over lower back or perianal region • Aggressively backing up to try to kick other horses or people • General agitation and inability to focus The most important thing to remember when you’re enduring a mare in heat is that this is natural behavior for her. While it’s never OK for a horse to kick or be aggressive toward people, owners should keep in mind that the mare is driven by a strong instinct to reproduce and that the behaviors that she exhibits naturally entice stallions.

Therefore, we can hardly blame them for the cyclical predicament that they’re in!

Supplements for Cranky Mares Supplement

Description

Comments

31 Mare Moods

A proprietary blend of edible powder containing Eleuthero, Sarsaparilla, Damiana, Kelp, Red Raspberry, Slippery Elm, Uva Ursi, Valerian, Dandelion, Dong Quai, White Willow and Goldenseal. Scoop included.

Made by Silver Lining Herbs.

Easy Mare

An edible powder or top dress liquid containing Vitex agnus castus seed (also called Monks Pepper seed and Chasteberry seed), Valerian root, Milk Thistle seed, Chamomile flowers, Cramp Bark, Vervain herb, and Yarrow herb.

Made by Hilton Herbs.

Chastetree Berry (Vitex angus)

The chaste tree is native to the Mediterranean and Central Asia. Its berries have long been used for a variety of abnormalities including “corpus luteum deficiency,” mastalgia (breast pain), and menstrual abnormalities.

Www.HerbalCom.com: Select Vitex Angus Castus (Europe) under Bulk Herbs products.

If purchased as a bulk powder, it can be fed for pennies per day.

Hormonise

A liquid top dressing of Chasteberry to assist in controlling crankiness in moody mares.

Made by Animal Health Company.

Evitex

A liquid top dressing of Chasteberry to assist in balancing hormones and reducing discomfort in mare cycling.

Made by Emerald Valley.

Physiology And Behavior

Many of us who have to endure cranky mares in heat find ourselves asking them, “Why all the fuss?!”

Believe it or not, there is a method to the madness.

A heat cycle will reach its pinnacle at the point of ovulation. From that point, there’s a short, finite window of time that the egg must be fertilized by a spermatozoa in order for an embryo to be conceived.

If the mare is bred too early or too late, conception is far less likely.

Therefore, her behavior will change accordingly, as the table on page 24 explains.

A one-month supply is runs around $48 + tax and shipping

1 month supply is around $75 + tax and shipping

Surgical Options for Cranky Mares Surgical Treatment

Description

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Flank Ovariectomy

Surgery that involves general anesthesia and flank incisions to remove just the ovaries.

Can cost upward of $2,500 depending on anesthetic used, size of ovaries.

Mares can be extremely colicky for three to four days following the surgery.

Flank or Ventral midline Ovariohysterectomy

Surgery that involves general anesthesia and either 2 opposing vertical flank incisions or a ventral midline incision to remove both the ovaries and uterus.

Literature suggests that the uterus can be left in the body, however reports of recurring uterine infection following ovary removal may make complete reproductive tract removal a better choice.

Post-operative complications such as colic have been reported.

Laparoscopic surgery

A camera is inserted into the body to visualize the structures. Using specialized instrumentation, the ovaries or the ovaries and uterus can be removed.

This technique is minimally invasive and in some circumstances can be performed with the mare standing under sedation. Healing time will be less due to smaller incisions. Cost can be the same or lower than traditional surgery.

Transvaginal Laparoscopic Ovariectomy

Performed in the standing mare under sedation, this procedure involves making two incisions in the vaginal wall (inside the vagina) to access the ovaries for removal. The surgery is laparoscopic (fiberoptic cameraassisted) and involves specialized instrumentation.

Reduced healing time and no external scarring.

Bottom Line

No two mares are exactly alike.

Some mares show no adverse behaviors during their heat cycles, while others become fire-breathing dragons. The average mare may show signs for about 1 week each month during the spring and summer, while a smaller subset of mares are reported to have heat

Runs a little over $1 per day

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issues up to 10 months out of the year!

Many owners also report that mares seem to have the worst heats as they near the end of their annual cycle. Clearly, no two mares go through it the same. Therefore, management plans must be custom formulated to suit the needs of each horse and owner.

If you’re lucky enough to be able to throw the mare in the back 40 for

one week per month, so be it. But if the mare is in work and handled daily, additional measures will likely have to be taken to calm her.

Natural supplements are a great place to start, and we’ve included our favorites in the chart on page 25. They have a proven track record and in general are affordable, especially if you only give them during the week that the mare shows signs of heat. Remember, no two mares

Medical Solutions for Cranky Mares Medical Treatment

Description

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Marbles

One or several sterile plastic or glass marbles are placed in the uterus permanently (until the owner wishes for them to be removed).

It’s thought that the physical presence of the marbles keeps a mare from coming into heat because they cause continual stimulation to the uterine lining, causing continual release of a hormone called Prostaglandin F2 alpha. This in turn prevents estrogen levels from rising. This procedure does not effectively control heat in all mares. Rare occurrences with marbles shattering have been reported.

Medroxyprogesterone

An intramuscular injection of progesterone is given every 21 to 28 days.

High levels of progesterone can suppress heat behavior yet still allow ovarian function to occur naturally. A mare can ovulate and complete the normal physiologic functions, without the accompanying behavioral signs. Like marbles, this procedure does not work on all mares. Some mares have only a partial response. Dosage and frequency vary depending on the individual animal and “fine tuning” will be likely throughout the season to get the dosage and timing right. Injection works within 24-48 hours. Complications have been reported rarely.

Regumate

Oral administration of progesterone oil given on a daily basis.

This method works extremely well on nearly all mares. The oil is tasteless and can either be squirted in the mare’s mouth or top dressed on feed. Like the hormone injection, it allows the body to carry out the complete heat cycle according to natural physiologic function while masking the behavior that goes along with it. It is costly and labor intensive since the oil must be given daily. Women should be extremely cautious when handling this medication since it can absorb into their skin and cause alterations to menstruation. Special nitrile gloves should be worn when handling since the oil can penetrate latex. Women who are nursing or pregnant should not handle this medication. It has no known deleterious effect in men. The product works with 24 hours of administration. Some give it for 7 days at the first sign of heat. This saves money by only administering it during the estrus portion of the heat cycle when the mare exhibits disruptive behavior. There are no reported negative side effects in horses.

Altresyn

Oral administration of progesterone oil given on a daily basis.

A generic version of Regumate.

Oxytocin

An injection on day 7 and day 14 of the heat cycle.

This hormone, when given in extremely small quantities, can actually prolong the diestrus portion of the heat cycle (when the mare isn’t displaying signs of heat). It is inexpensive but requires injections. If oxytocin is given in too high of a quantity, it can cause violent and painful uterine contraction, resulting in colic. At the described levels, those side effects are rarely seen in mares, but overdose potential does exist.

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are the same, so you may have to experiment a bit with supplements to see which gives you improvement.

Any medication (see chart on this page) must be prescribed, which means that your veterinarian will be involved with the decisions. Medical management is effective in most cases, provided that it is affordable.

Surgery is also an excellent option, with several strides being made in the past decade to both diversify and improve sterilization technique. A chart is on page 25. When you stack up surgery costs to medicines and supplements over time, it can actually save money in the long run.

But, any surgery carries some risk. Post-operative complications such as colic and infection are reported with spaying procedures and if the mare undergoes a procedure involving general anesthesia, there is a small additional risk there. However, for those who want to be done riding the hormonal roller-coaster once and for all, surgery is the only way.

Article by Contributing Veterinary Editor Grant Miller, DVM.

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New Bill Announced for Helmet Safety Connecticut Congressman introduces the Helmet Safety Bill to the House.

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n April 17, Connecticut Congressman Jim Himes announced legislation that would prohibit the sale of “apparel only” riding helmets.

The Christen O’Donnell Equestrian Helmet Act is named for a 12-year-old Darien, Conn., girl who was killed when she was thrown from her horse while wearing an unapproved helmet.

“Unfortunately, many horse riders unknowingly purchase ineffective head gear for themselves or their children thinking it is a real helmet. I am pleased to introduce this bill to help prevent tragedies like Christen’s from ever happening again,” Himes stated.

The bill will use the ASTM/SEI standards we are all familiar with, as these ASTM/SEI certified helmets are required by the U.S. Equestrian Federation for riders in dressage, combined training and hunter/jumper disciplines. Many states also have laws requiring these helmets for all riders under the age of 18.

A quick look at major online retailers turned up no apparel-only riding hats for sale, however, that doesn’t mean local tack stores or small online retailers don’t have them available. As always, we advise you to check inside the helmet you’re considering for the ASTM/ SEI label. If you’re not sure, ask the retailer for verification.

In addition, anytime you’ve had a fall, your certified helmet should either be replaced or returned to the manufacturer for inspection to ensure it continues to offer maximum protection (there may be fees associated with this).

If your helmet is “old,” remember that all riding helmets should be replaced by six years of life, whether you’ve fallen or not. If the

An ASTM-SEI certified helmet is a safety necessity.

helmet begins to look worn – inside or out – pay close attention to the inner surface. Any dents, scratches or dings indicate the need for immediate replacement. Note: We are working on a comprehensive helmet article.

The bill is supported by the Equestrian Medical Safety Association; the U.S. Pony Clubs; Riders 4 Helmets; Charles Owen, a leading manufacturer of certified equestrian helmets; the Brain Trauma Foundation; Safe Kids Worldwide, an organization dedicated to preventing childhood injuries; and The Chronicle of the Horse, a weekly horse-sports news magazine.

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Fly Sheets 2014 – Lots of Improvement Manufacturers are learning that we want affordable, durable fly sheets.

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ly sheets are great for horses, as they do make it more difficult for flies to bite. It won’t stop them from buzzing around or landing on the horse, however. That’s nothing new when it comes to fighting flies.

While chemical fly sprays often have a killing ingredient, the effect isn’t immediate - you rarely see a fly land on a horse wearing fly spray and then drop dead. Herbal fly sprays deter flies, too, The Shires sheet was our overall favorite. but they still land and annoy the horse (and horse owner!).

Pal fly traps also will help stop the To actually reduce fly activity biting flies. on your farm, consider using fly But fly sheets help, too, and many parasites. Ask anyone who has ever of the sheets boast UV protection as used these insects correctly - that’s well, which is increasingly imporextremely important and every tant. For mosquito patrol, you’re time we’ve heard of a failure we’ve going to need the finest mesh you learned of something done incorcan find and, even then, it’s virturectly - and they will tell you the ally impossible to cover every speck difference was dramatic. The Horse of the horse’s body to stop mosquitoes. They’ll bite anywhere.

When using a fly sheet on your horses, you need to take into account the temperature and humidity prior to dressing them. Profuse sweating and possible overheating are real concerns. Think about it – if it’s 100 degrees in the shade, you probably want We loved the material of the Professional’s Choice sheet. as lightweight 24

clothing as you can find.

The second drawback to fly sheets is their propensity to cause shoulder rubs, even when the sheets fit well. This may well be caused by the sweat and trapped heat coupled with the sheet sliding around as the horses move about. Despite flies being at their worst in hot temperatures, we usually left sheets off and fly masks on until it became cooler. Often we used sheets overnight as protection from mosquitoes and gnats and removed them when it became too hot.

In our trial, the PVC-coated nylon sheets helped the horses stay cooler, it seemed, but they had a much longer break-in period before they conformed to the horse. We consider that as a comfort factor. The polyester mesh that just flows over the horse as soon as you put it on appears more comfortable to wear.

But they aren’t as durable as PVCcoated choices.

In this trial, we noticed the fly sheets really trended toward extreme protection. Many we tested included neck covers, belly coverage and very fine mesh to protect from smaller insects and UV rays.

And the Bucas Zebra print sheet has some validity to the “stripes confuse flies” research from a few years ago.

We find two main types of fly sheet on the market: PVC-coated woven nylon: These are usually lightweight but stiff till broken in. We find they’re more likely to cause rubs, so we prefer that these sheets have lining at the

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Fly Sheets Sheet

Cost

Comments

MicroMesh Poly Mesh Bellyband Fly Sheet Schneider’s Saddlery www.sstack.com

$49.99

300 Denier poly mesh, 80% UV protection. Two-buckle front, fleece withers, gussets, nylon lined shoulder, elastic leg straps and stainless hardware. Great value. Matching fly mask available. 64”-86” The matching neck cover is $28.99

Horse Sense Fly Sheet SYRVet www.syrvet.com

$43

Lightweight mesh. Two buckle front, single girth surcingle, elastic leg straps. No lining on shoulders, no tail flap, no nylon in shoulder. 69”-84” White or Purple.

High Spirit Screen Fly Sheet Intrepid International www.intrepidintl.com

$59.99

100% nylon mesh. Double front buckle, shoulder gusset, belly band, tail flap, leg straps and fleece withers.

Extremely durable and lightweight. Excellent choice for hot weather turnout. Great price. XS- 69. SM-72”. MD 75”. L78”. XL 81

D-Tech Ripstop Mesh Euro Fly Sheet Schneider’s Saddlery www.sstack.com

$59.99

Shiny rip-stop nylon mesh. 65% UV protection. Double buckle front closure, fleece withers, nylon lined shoulder, gusset, elastic detachable leg straps, tail flap. Stainless hardware, a departure from the usual brass colored Schneiders hardware. Perfect lightweight cool sheet for hot weather. Excellent value with all the necessary features at a great price. Matching fly mask available. Neck opening runs large. 66”-86”. Neck cover costs $22.49.

Tempest Fly Sheet Shires Equestrian www.shiresequestrian.com

$69.99

Very lightweight reflective mesh. Double front buckle, nylon lined chest, tail flap, rope tail cord. No leg straps, but there are D rings for them. No fleece at withers. We preferred this one for hand grazing, hand walking or stall use, but the manufacturer said it is designed for turnout with extra stitching at the spine to keep it in place. 60” – 87”

SmartPak Classic Fly Sheet SmartPak Equine www.smartpakequine.com

$79.95

Very light poly weave. 95% UV protection. Surcingle front closure, nylon shoulder, large tail flap, stainless hardware. Rope tail cord. No fleece on withers. No leg straps. Good value. 69”-84”

Soft Interlock Mesh Bellyband Combo Sheet Schneider’s Saddlery www.sstack.com

$79.99

Full-featured attached neck sheet with stretch panel. 300 denier poly mesh , 80% UV protection, two-buckle front with Velcro assist. Bellyband with stretch insert in surcingles. Nylon lined shoulders, gussets, reflective stripes and elastic leg straps. Tremendous value. Held up great. Matching fly mask available. 68”-86”

Big Fella Mosquito Mesh Fly Sheet Schneider’s Saddlery www.sstack.com

$81.99

Generous draft size nylon mesh sheet. 60% UV protection. Very tight weave to protect from small insects. VFree withers relief system. Double buckle/ snap front. Lined shoulder, fleece withers, reflective stripes for easy sighting at night. Matching fly mask available. 84”-94” Excellent choice for hot weather protection of drafts and large horses. Neck cover is $29.99.

Centaur Got Flies? Body Shield Fly Sheet w/ Belly English Riding Supply www.englishridingsupply. com

$89.95

Lovely silky soft poly mesh. Attached neck with stretch panel. Belly band with two surcingles. Shoulder gusset. Double front buckle. Elastic leg straps. Generous tail flap. Really nice product at a great price. Extreme protection. One of our favorites. Runs large. Matching fly mask available. Pony 60-64. Cob 66-70, Horse 72-74.

Lg. Horse 78-82. XL Horse 84-86”

WeatherBeeta Airflow Standard Neck Fly Sheet WeatherBeeta www.weatherbeeta.com

$99.99

Soft polyester mesh with tight weave. Two-buckle front, fleece wither, standard shoulder gussets, removable belly closure, oversize Freestyle tail flap, elastic removable leg straps. Available in pony and horse sizes, 48”-87” (in 3-inch increments). Solid construction.

Mosquito Mesh Flyshield Fly Sheet Schneider’s Saddlery www.sstack.com

$104.99

Tight nylon mesh to protect from mosquitos. Full-featured sheet. 60% UV protection. Nylon lined shoulders, fleece withers, V-tek V-free higher coverage of withers. Extends up onto mane, deep cut sides. Reflective stripes, removable leg straps and two buckle front closure. Matching fly mask available 68”-86”. Neck cover is $29.99.

Shires Fly Sheet Shires Equestrian www.shiresequestrian.com

$119

Silky soft reflective poly mesh. Very tight weave. Detachable neck cover. Double buckle front closure, shoulder gusset, lined chest, large tail flap, belly band, nylon mane guard in neck cover. Elastic leg straps. Well made and beautiful to look at. Nice enough to take to a show and use as an extra scrim. Natural color with navy trim and tan stripe. This sheet held up well and provided excellent protection against small biting insects. 66” – 84”

Professional’s Choice Fly Sheet Professionals Choice www.profchoice.com

$119.95

Polyester rip-stop nylon. UV protection. Lined shoulder, fleece withers. Double buckle front closure. West Coast style surcingles and leg straps. Very tailored and fit best on a QH type build. Extremely durable and breathable.

Matching fly mask available. Ideal choice for warm climates. Leg protectors also sold. 68”-84”.

Cashel Lightweight Fly Sheet Cashel Company www.cashelcompany.com

$126.95

Reflective, lightweight mesh. 70% UV protection. Lining in shoulder with gussets and darts to tailor-fit to horse and help prevent rubs. Wide belly protector with hook-and-loop closures. Elastic leg straps. We had the Crusader Lightweight sheet in our trial. (Also available is the Eco Fly Sheet, which is vinyl coated poly with fleece lining at withers and adjustable straps at a lower price.) Very nice sheet that kept cool even in hot weather. Matching fly mask available. Sizing: 57/59, 66/68,70/72,74/76,77/79, 80/82, 83/85.

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Exselle Fly Bye Fly Sheet Interpid International www.intrepidintl.com

$129.49

Soft reflective poly mesh infused with repellent. Lasts 2 yrs. or 25 cool-water washes. Removable neck, two buckle front closure, shoulder gusset and flank gusset. Belly cover. Stainless hardware. Adjustable nylon tail cord with snaps. Long tail flap with elastic keeper. This sheet is well made with so many different adjustments and features it stood out well above many of the others. It is designed for ease of use and excellent fly protection. 66”-84”

Buzz Off Full Neck Fly Sheet Bucas/Toklat Originals www.toklat.com

$145

Fine reflective poly mesh. Attached neck and removable belly pad. Bucas Power Front padded closure. Sheet made from one continuous piece of fabric. Excellent craftsmanship and design. Stayed in place well. Leg straps included. Tested on large draft and would fit warmbloods as the fall is deep and the cut generous. Matching fly mask available. Non-metal hardware. No lining in shoulders. 69”-86” Price drops to $100 without the neck piece.

WeatherBeeta Supa-Fly Insect Shield Detach-A-Neck Fly Sheet WeatherBeeta www.weatherbeeta.com

$149.99, solid; $159.99, plaid

Lightweight polyester mesh infused with the insect repellent Permethrin 0.52% that last through 25 washings.

Two-buckle front closure, full tail flap, nylon shoulders, mane protector, nylon lining inside tail flap, gussets and detachable neck. Removable belly band with adjustable elastic surcingles. All the bells and whistles with complete horse protection. Plastic front clip closures, but we didn’t have any breakage issues. 60”-84” (3-inch increments)

Bucas Buzz Off Zebra Fullneck Sheet Bucas/Toklat Originals www.toklat.com

$180

Fine reflective poly mesh, Zebra pattern to repel insects, sheet made from one seamless piece. Attached neck.

Elastic removable belly piece that fits close to horse. Power Front closure with padding. Leg straps inc. 69”-84”.

Matching fly mask. No lining in shoulders. Non-metal hardware.

Kensington Draft Protective Fly Sheet www.kensingtonproducts. com

$199.99

1000x2000 denier Textilene. 78% air permeable. 73% UV protection. Very heavy duty fly sheet that also comes in horse, pony and mini sizes. Padded withers, lined chest, detachable leg straps. Removable belly straps with West Coast-style snap and D closure. Kensington has a strong reputation for making very durable sheets that are a good choice for horses tough on their wardrobe. Matching fly mask available. Draft 90-96; Draft, $159.99 Horse Neck Cover $49.95

shoulder. However, they are less likely to snag or rip during turnout than the polyester sheets. Overall, these sheets were cooler for the horses.

Polyester mesh: These fabrics are softer but heavier than the PVC sheets, but we’ve found they tend to snag and tear more easily. Overall, these sheets appeared to be more

comfortable for the horses, but we could be anthropomorphizing things, thinking these sheets would be more comfortable for us.

Of the 19 fly sheets in our trial, you can’t make a bad choice. If budget is your primarly concern, you can run down our chart, choose one solely by price and get through the summer. We weren’t unhappy

The D-Tech Ripstop Mesh Euro Fly Sheet earned Best Buy. 26

with any sheet in the trial. But, after a brutally hot and humid 2013 summer, we do have our favorites and top picks:

Under $100

Over the years, we’ve found consistent high quality at a good price from Schneiders Saddlery, and these sheets are no different, from the draft-size specialty Big Fella Mosquito Net Fly Sheet to their terrific D-Tech Ripstop Mesh Euro Fly sheet. We appreciate the variety of options Schneiders offers in fit, plus we’ve found they offer exceptional customer service with an up-front, detailed warranty statement http:// www.sstack.com/Schneiders-Blanket-Warranty D-Tech Ripstop Mesh Euro Fly Sheet – A top performer for us, as temps soared into the 90s. The white reflective nylon weave fabric kept the horses cool and held up under tough turnout conditions.

It is a very economical choice at $59.99. (Please note the neck opening is large in these. You may need to order a size down.) This sheet did not let us down and handily outperformed many more expensive products.

Centaur’s Got Flies Body Shield - This is a lovely sheet from English Riding Supply that feels silky soft to the touch. It provided extreme

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protection with an attached neck and belly protector. The company inserted a stretch panel at the base of neck to allow the horse to graze comfortably. There is nylon lining in the shoulders and over the mane. This is a beautifully crafted fly sheet that looks and feels wellmade. It tested perfectly both in turnout and in the barn. At $89.95, we think it is a steal.

a luxury fly sheet.

The various keepers and design additions made this sheet easy to use. It stayed in place and offered complete protection with a generous removable neck cover. It is constructed of soft reflective poly Over $100 mesh infused with We had a three-way battle here. repellant said to These sheets featured tons of last two years or 25 pluses, and one had the addition cold-water washes. of insect repellent into the fabric.

If you’re looking for We were concerned about poscomplete protecThe WeatherBeeta SuplaFly has insecticide in it. sible irritation from the repellent, tion, this is a solid though none of the test horses had choice. Retailing a reaction. It would be something to for $115 to $130. watch for when initially trying the WeatherBeeta Supa-Fly - Another Sheets without Repellent product on your horse. (We would mega-protection sheet including the Professional’s Choice Fly Sheet avoid use on horses known to have repellent Permetherin. This sheet – We love this fabric! It’s our favorallergic reactions to fly spray.) All of is made of lightweight mosquito ite fabric of all the ones in this trial. these sheets are well-designed and netting type mesh with tight weave.

It is extremely durable and still solidly built, holding up extremely Durable sheet with only a few breathable/airy. Offers polyester well to our band of equine testers. minor snags during out trial. When rip-stop nylon. Very tailored. We combined with a fly mask, it offered found it fit best on a QH-type build.

Sheets with Repellent almost total protection. It has a Ideal choice for warm climates.

Exselle Fly Bye Fly Sheet - All the shoulder gusset and a fairly deep Shires Maxi Flow Fly Sheet – This bells and whistles you’d expect in fall for bigger-bodied horses. is a beautiful product. Everything from the tailoring to the hardware came out on top. It’s nice enough to use as a scrim at shows with a pretty, natural color and navy trim with a tan stripe.

The polyester mesh fabric feels silky yet breathable while offering UV protection. The generous neck cover is removable and has a nylon lining to protect the mane.

We liked being able to remove the neck cover, especially in hot weather. The large belly protector closes with two adjustable surcingles. Satin lining at the chest helps prevent rubs. It is remarkably well priced at $119.

Buzz Off Zebra Fly Sheet - One of the more interesting products we’ve ever seen. The reason Bucas designed a sheet like this is because the pattern of a zebra’s coat actually repels flies, and we verified such a research study does exist. And, we were amazed to see the research’s conclusion transferred to real life.

We noticed that there were fewer flies bothering our test “horse in Another airy sheet is the AirFlow from WeatherBeeta. stripes,” although it is possible that Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014

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it was the horse’s own chemistry.

That said, the test horse was a thinskinned Thoroughbred, a type usually considered a fly “delicacy.”

This sheet stands above the rest in design and construction. Bucas continues to use heavy duty Velcro and stays ahead of the pack in their commitment to high-end horse wear. Same sheet without stripes is called the Buzz Off Fly Sheet.

Bottom Line

This field trial was a wonderful opportunity to see how the manufacturers are continuing to create innovative products that keep the comfort and protection of horses in mind, while considering caretakers, too, with easy-to-use choices.

We were especially impressed with the budget products in this trial, as manufacturers are picking up on the need for a trend toward more affordable horse products. We saw our must-have features – detachable elastic leg straps, fleece withers, surcingle elastic, and lined shoulders – on all but a few sheets.

Among the standouts were the Professional’s Choice fly sheet with its unique, durable, lightweight fabric. It is the sheet for the hottest climates. And we have to mention the Bucas Zebra sheet. That blackwhite stripe design makes a difference.

Overall, though, our favorites came down to that elusive combination of fit, features and quality, with Shires sheet providing all that and more in their exceptional fly sheet.

Best Buy goes to the D-Tech Ripstop Mesh Euro Fly Sheet. At $59.99, it isn’t our least expensive sheet in the trial, but it offers an awful lot for the money.

We look forward to the spring thaw and pulling these fly sheets back out for a second year of testing.

Article by Contributing Writer Beth Hyman.

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USEF Drug Rules

USEF Communications Department Release

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mportant Changes to the USEF Equine Drugs and Medications Rules for the 2014 Competition Year became effective December 1, 2013 and include the Prohibited Practices to the Equine Drug & Medication Rules.

Remember that: No horses or ponies may be injected within 12 hours of competing.

There are only three exceptions to this rule: · Therapeutic fluids, · Antibiotics, and · Dexamethasone (for the treatment of hives).

All excepted substances must be administered by a veterinarian, a medication report form must be filed, and the drug can’t be administered to a horse or pony within 6 hours of competing.

There are three restricted medications that are affected by this change: Dexamethasone (Azium) - Maximum 24-hour dose has been decreased from 20 mg/1,000-lb. horse to 10 mg/1,000-lb. horse and must be administered in accordance with the new “12 Hour Rule,” which is GR414.

Ketoprofen (Ketofen) - Maximum 24-hour dose 1.0 gram/1,000-lb. horse remains the same, however it must not be administered within 12 hours prior to competition.

Methocarbamol (Robaxin) - Maximum 24-hour dose 5.0 grams/1,000lb. horse remains the same, however must not be administered within the 12 hours prior to competition.

In particular, regarding dexamethasone, no administration should take place within the 12 hours prior to competing; however, one exception is for the treatment of hives for which an intravenous administration of 5 mg dexamethasone may be permitted if the treatment is conducted by a veterinarian and a medication report form is filed.

This administration must not take place within the 6 hours prior to competing.

The details of the GR 414 Prohibited Practices rule are: 1. No injectable substances may be administered to any horse or pony within 12 hours prior to competing, with the following three exceptions subject to paragraph 2 below: a. Therapeutic fluids, which amount must consist of a minimum of 10L of polyionic fluids; and which must be used in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations and guidelines. The fluids must not be supplemented with concentrated electrolytes, such as magnesium. b. Antibiotics. Procaine penicillin G is prohibited under this exception. c. Dexamethasone. This is permitted only for the treatment of acute urticaria(hives). The dose must not exceed 0.5 mg per 100lb (5.0 mg for 1000lb horse) if administered more than 6 hours and less than 12 hours prior to entering the competition ring, and must not exceed 1.0 mg per 100lb (10.0 mg for 1000lb horse) within any 24-hour period.

2. The above exceptions are permitted only when (i) the substance is administered by a licensed veterinarian and no less than six hours prior to competing; and (ii) the “Trainer” as defined under General Rule 404 properly files, or causes to be properly filed, an Equine Drugs and Medications Report Form with the Steward/Technical Delegate or competition office representative within one hour after the administration of the substance or one hour after the Steward/Technical Delegate or competition office representative returns to duty if the administration occurs at a time outside competition hours. The Steward/Technical Delegate or competition office representative shall sign and record the time of receipt on the Equine Drugs and Medications Report Form.

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Barefoot vs. Shoes There’s a lot of pressure out there to leave your horse barefoot, but it isn’t always the right choice.

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any horse owners have converted their horses to the barefoot method of hoof management. Some report that the decision to pull their horse’s shoes was made for philosophical reasons, while others cite economic hardship as a motivating factor. No matter what the reason(s), it appears that barefoot trimming is trending upwards, so much so, that one can’t help but wonder if a day could come when horse shoes are a rare sight.

Many people have taken a critical look at why we shoe horses and sharply questioned its necessity.

Why are we shoeing horses? Is it simply because, “That is how things are done”? Blacksmiths have been around for hundreds of years. This age old profession has diligently shod horses through the world’s wars, revolutions and eras. Very few professions have been around this long… so there must be a good reason for it, right? They wouldn’t be in high demand after all these years if the job wasn’t necessary.

So… which is best for your horse?

Shoes or no shoes? From the vet’s perspective, decisions should be made based on how the horse responds to being barefoot.

When a veterinarian is first approached for his or her opinion on the matter, most vets encourage clients to ponder the pros and cons of this decision carefully, offering thoughts on both sides and what is best for that individual horse. As with many horse-related topics, no two scenarios will play out exactly the same way. Therefore, each case must be handled on an individual basis.

Both shoes and barefoot have perceived pros and cons. For instance, some may view the protection that a shoe provides to a hoof to be a good thing, while others believe that the shoe prevents natural ex-

Hooves that frequently crack and chip may be helped by a patch, like this one, which may require a shoe.

pansion and contraction of the foot that occurs in barefoot horses.

Another example is the ability of a shoe to change the hoof angles significantly with the use of wedge pads. There can be benefits to the horse’s joints if wedges are added to optimize angles. That said, it’s also widely known that the use of wedge pads over time can contribute to contracted and under-run heels. For the average horse owner, the two approaches to hoof management can appear on the surface to be neck and neck.

Here is my advice: 1. No matter which way you decide to go, make sure to do your homework when you select the person to work on your horse’s feet.

Remember, it takes the average horse about one year to grow out a new hoof. That means that someone can cause lasting damage with just a nip here and a rasp there!

Generally, farriers who are certified by the American Farriers Association have a solid baseline level of knowledge and skill. They’re capable of balancing and trimming a hoof and also making and putting on a shoe.

Of course, just because they’re certified doesn’t mean they’re good.

On the contrary, there are plenty of talented folks out there who have

decided not to go the AFA route.

Some may be certified by the Brotherhood of Working Farriers Association, and that’s fine, too.

The thing is, you have to do your research, and that means ask around, check out the hooves of horses that the person shoes or trims, and interview the farrier about his or her training, forte and experience. Ultimately, a farrier must not only get along with your horse, but he or she must also mesh well with you. However, nothing trumps competence developed through formal education, continued education and experience.

2. Don’t buy a line of bull.

If it doesn’t sound right, it probably isn’t. Often, an incompetent farrier will weave a far-fetched fictional explanation of what’s happening when in reality he or she is causing something to go wrong by not knowing what they’re doing.

For instance, if your horse’s hoof starts to look long, your horse begins to trip or stumble, or if your horse is lame, it’s time to put the brakes on and intervene. No matter what the farrier may tell you, the bottom of your horse’s hoof should be level when you look down its surface.

Also, if your farrier becomes angry when you question what’s going on, you may need to reconsider the relationship. Those who lack formal education in anatomy and the physics of trimming will often provide a sensationalized rendition of what’s going on in the foot. If it’s confusing or doesn’t sound quite right, run it by your veterinarian to make sure that you aren’t getting snowed. Or send the question to us.

If we can help, we will.

3. If you pull your horses shoes and go the barefoot route, your horse should not be foot sore forever.

It’s widely understood that most

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29

horses will be sore for a few weeks, maybe even a few months after shoes are pulled. Often, the horse needs to build up callus on his soles to help protect the coffin bones from concussive forces that occur when they walk barefoot on the ground. In some instances, hoof tougheners like iodine must be applied. But, most horses will begin to walk out more comfortably within two weeks to two months after shoes are pulled.

Many barefoot trimmers will tell owners that, after several months of a horse being foot sore, they just need to keep going and the hooves will complete the transformation.

The question that you have to ask yourself is, how long do you want to sentence your horse to pain with every step? Two months feels like the upper limit for most owners. In some more extreme instances, barefoot horses will repeatedly get hoof abscesses. If this is occurring on a repeated basis then the owner must make some executive decisions. No one wants to watch a gimp around knowing that it’s being caused by a decision to pull his shoes.

4. If ongoing lameness occurs from either shoeing or barefoot trimming, it’s time to stop, regroup and find a new direction.

This may require a new farrier, a decision that your veterinarian may help you with.

R

eally well done video that makes you want to go ride your horse!

This is simply 40 seconds of video that makes you want to run straight to the barn and your horse! http://horse-journal.com/video/40-great-seconds-16319

Campaign to Save Land for Horses We take the 6,000 acres a day estimate with a grain of salt, but development is scary.

S

ure, you’ve heard it.

We’re running out of land, and the groups claim we’re losing astronomical amounts of land per day.

We don’t know how they come up with those figures either. But, there’s no doubt that development is bulldozing ahead, with housing, roadways and retail centers.

We know you care, too. All it takes is some planning, and the insistence of each community that it happens. The Equine Land Conservation Resource can help. Volunteer to work with your town zoning committee and town planning board. We need to protect our children’s and grandchildren’s right to own and ride horses. You can also donate to the ELCR to help fund their cause. See video at http:// horse-journal.com/article/campaign-save-land-horses-16347

Heart-Wrenching Story of a Mare’s Love

Bottom Line.

Whether barefoot-pro folks want to hear it or not, some horses aren’t capable of being barefoot. It’s unfair to sentence them to months of continual pain with every step. If your horse doesn’t adapt to being barefoot within a couple of months, you should intervene to avoid sentencing them to a miserable life.

If you asked your horse whether he wanted to be barefoot or have shoes, he would probably tell you that he would prefer not being in pain with every step. If that means wearing shoes, somehow that doesn’t seem so taboo. Perhaps that’s why the practice of putting shoes on horses has survived for centuries.

Grant Miller, DVM, Contributing Veterinary Editor 30

40 Great Seconds

Mare saves foal from burning barn in Texas.

T

here’s nothing like a mare’s love. Pony Bella saved her foal, Butterscotch, from the burning flames by sacrificing herself. Rescuers are looking for help in covering her veterinary care. Story Reported on WFLA in Decatur, Texas. Link at http://horse-journal.com/article/heartwrenching-story-mares-love-16352

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014

Bit-Metal Choices It absolutely does make a difference to your horse.

T

he array of bit types and shapes displayed in catalogs and hanging on tack room walls is daunting enough to consider, and when you add in the factor of what the bits are made of it’s hard to figure out where to start when selecting a bit.

The choice of a specific bit material matters most in its acceptance by the horse. Some materials are softer or harder, warmer or colder, sweeter or neutral in taste.

Ideally, you want the horse to gently chew the bit while in work and to lightly salivate - a wet mouth is a more-lubricated mouth and thus a softer mouth.

Bit material can also be a matter of appearance. Stainless steel is the easiest to keep shiny. Bits that tend to rust have a duller finish, and bits that contain copper have a gold tinge. Many bits have a mouthpiece of one material and bit rings of stainless steel for the sake of both appearance and strength.

When it comes to price, rubber/ plastics and straight copper are generally lower, while stainless is in the mid range. Lower price also generally corresponds to lower durability. With rubber/plastic and softer metals, you should frequently check the bit to make sure any chewed areas aren’t rough or sharp, which may cause sores.

Metal is usually preferred over materials such as plastic and rubber

Riders want to see some salivation, as a wet mouth is a softer mouth.

because it’s much more durable and also produces less friction. While rubber bits seem to be “soft” because of their thickness and plastic bits appealing because of their taste, they can be too thick for many horses and will tug on the skin at the corner of the mouth. Thicker isn’t softer, in rubber/plastic or metal, if the horse’s mouth inside is relatively small. Rubber and plastic bits also usually have a thin seam that can rub.

There are endless debates on the properties of various metals and how they act in the damp environ-

When You Go Shopping, remember: ■ A bit metal that tends to rust or that contains some copper will likely promote salivation.

■ Synthetic materials have more friction than smooth metals.

■ Stainless steel is the most durable choice.

■ Thicker isn’t softer if your horse has a small mouth.

ment of a horse’s mouth. it’s generally believed that oxidation (rust) or copper promotes salivation. There are also considerable concerns over whether the nickel found in some bits can cause an allergic reaction and mouth sores. Some feel that mixing metals can set up a reaction in the mouth that irritates the horse.

As far as salivation is concerned, yes, certain materials promote a wet mouth better than others. However, the most important element in is the education of the hands holding the reins. A skilled rider can help a horse relax its jaw and flex at the poll, which naturally activates the salivary glands.

If you want to determine whether a particular material will make a positive difference to your horse, you need to swap out bits of the same type and size. Most people, however, don’t have access to such a variety of choices and when they try a bit with a different material it also might be a different design.

In that case, there’s really no way to tell if any positive difference is really a matter of the material over the actual conformation and size of the bit.

Stainless vs. Sweet

For stainless steel, chromium is added to steel to reduce corrosion and make it shiny and strong, while up to 10% nickel is also added in varying amounts for even more durability. there’s really no way for a person buying a stainless steel bit to tell how much nickel is in the steel if they are at all concerned about a nickel contact allergy, although high-grade stainless steel is supposed to coat over the nickel and not cause any problems, even for humans sensitive to nickel.

When it comes to selecting a metal bit, the choice usually comes down to stainless, which is neutral in taste, or a metal that rusts somewhat or contains copper that is so-called “sweet” in taste, naturally encouraging gentle chewing of the bit and salivation. That’s a very individual call. There has been fairly extensive research in Europe, with specific brands touting their own

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alloy, the most prominent being Herm Sprenger’s Aurigan, which contains no nickel. Copper-alloy bits are now very popular in sporthorse disciplines, although stainless is also still common.

Mixing Metals

The concern over whether mixing separate metals, especially steel and copper, could set up a mild electrical charge in the damp mouth of a horse was once so severe that it was specifically forbidden in USEF dressage rules, even to the point of not allowing bits of two different metals in a double bridle.

The issue came to a head a decade ago when copper alloys became widely used in dressage bits. While these bits could differ widely in their copper content, there was little way to tell them apart by their appearance.

While an electrical charge is possible in theory, it really isn’t in practical application. The horses seemed happy enough, and with

Even a plain, properly fit, stainless steel snaffle like this one can produce salivation in the right hands.

no way to any longer consistently enforce the rule, it was tossed out.

This is one area, however, where proponents are polar opposites - some feel mixing copper and steel is a potential irritant, such as with rollers, inlays or separate links, while others feel it is the best of both worlds.

Shopping

The predominant material in most tack shops is stainless steel. De-

pending on where the shop buys its inventory, and the likely interests Western or English - of the customers, You’ll see some rubber, a few plastics and various other metals.

The problem is that most bits rarely have tags that give you any real information about the bit materials.

The price label may have abbreviations (SS for stainless steel, GS for German silver, and so on) for the material and manufacturer in such really tiny type that even the shop assistants won’t be able to decipher it. When it comes to materials, you might be better off working from a catalog or website that can give you more information. However, what you can’t tell from a catalog is whether there are any rough edges on the bit - never buy a bit until you’ve run your fingers over every portion, especially where the rings and mouthpiece join.

Buying used bits can be a huge bargain, but you likely won’t be able to specifically identify the material.

Avoid bits with plating of nickel or chrome that can chip, especially if any worn spots are showing

Comparing Bit Materials Composition/Material

Price/Durability

Acceptance

Comments

Stainless Steel

Mid price, very durable.

Neutral taste. Low salivation.

Shiny. Often combined with other metals.

Nickel/Brass

Mid-high price, medium durability.

Sweet taste. Good salivation.

Dull finish. Also called “Never Rust.”

Cold-Rolled Steel

Mid price and durability.

Sweet taste. Good salivation.

Often called “sweet iron.” Prone to rust, which promotes salivation. Used often in western bits.

Kangaroo Metal (Nickel/copper)

High price, low to mid durability.

Sweet taste. Good salivation.

Dull finish.

German Silver (Up to 60% copper + zinc and nickel)

Mid-high price, medium durability.

Sweet taste. Good salivation.

Often used in dressage bits. Golden tint.

High-copper alloys (no nickel)

Mid-high price, medium durability.

Sweet taste. Good salivation.

85-90% copper. Sprenger’s Aurigan is copper/zinc/silicon. Used often in dressage bits. Golden color.

Copper

Low-mid price, low durability.

Sweet taste. Good salivation.

Golden color. Used only in mouth pieces, combined with steel rings for strength. Warms in mouth more quickly than steel.

Inspect regularly for wear.

Multi-metals (Usually stainless steel with copper inlays or rollers)

Mid-price, medium durability.

Sweet taste. Good salivation.

Combines the durability of stainless with taste of copper.

Plastic/Nylon

Mid-price, low durability.

Sweet taste. Varied salivation.

Can be flexible or have steel core for strength. Happy Mouth most well-known and has “apple” taste.

Rubber over steel

Low to high price, low durability.

Varied acceptance. Low salivation.

Thick. A “grinder” can chew right through it. A latex wrap can turn any bit into a rubber bit with the thickness you want.

32

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014

When You Go Shopping, remember: ■ A bit metal that tends to rust or that contains some copper will likely promote salivation.

■ Synthetic materials have more friction than smooth metals.

■ Stainless steel is the most durable choice.

■ Thicker isn’t softer if your horse has a small mouth.

through. Some older bits may also include aluminum, which is very light and shiny but not durable and can cause the mouth to dry. Always double check the requirements of your specific discipline before buying a bit.

Don’t expect store clerks to know all the rules. They usually won’t.

Don’t accept any advertising claims on face value. Ads often state “legal for showing,” but what might be legal for one discipline, such as dressage, won’t be so for another,

mote salivation, consider copper or a copper-alloy. Certain highcopper alloys also are available without nickel, if that is a priority.

Otherwise, if you’re trying to solve a “problem” in bitting, look first to dental, fit and equitation before testing out an array of bit types and materials.

Article by Associate Editor Margaret Freeman.

such as eventing, and often the rules change before the advertisements do.

Bottom Line

The most basic training bit is a stainless steel, loose-ring, doublejointed snaffle with a short, rounded center section. Stainless should be your place to start when considering materials for any type of bit - it’s durable, attractive, moderate in price and neutral in taste.

If you want to particularly pro-

A Small Piece of Equipment, But Lots of Decisions Bit material may be the least of your concerns when choosing a bit or trying to figure out why your current bit isn’t working as well as it should. Look first to the size and shape of your horse’s mouth, particularly whether your horse has a relatively low palate or particularly thick tongue and lips—something that doesn’t necessarily correspond to the size of the horse. Other things to consider: Size. A snaffle should be roughly a half inch wider than the mouth to avoid pinching the lips.

Thickness. More surface generally means a milder effect. However, a horse with a small mouth or low palate may not have enough room for a thick bit and will be more comfortable in a thinner choice.

Type. Hundreds of options here, depending on performance needs. The snaffle bit most likely to be accepted has two joints and a short rounded center set at an angle (around 45 degrees) that allows it to drape over the tongue when the reins are taken up rather than pointing up into the roof of the mouth.

Adjustment. A snaffle should be high enough in the mouth to have two small wrinkles at each corner. A bit that is too low in the horse’s mouth will bang against the teeth or could encourage too much tongue activity, even allowing the tongue to get over the bit.

Rein attachment. If a bit has multiple rings, placing the rein on lower rings will create greater pressure on the poll.

Cleanliness. Make it part of your routine to dunk the bit in your horse’s water bucket when you unbridle.

When gunk solidifies on the bit, it can rub the horse’s mouth.

Dental. Lack of competent dental care can be a greater source of bit issues than the choice of the bit itself.

Rider. The education of the rider’s hand is the most important element to acceptance of the bit. A rider with a soft, steady connection to the reins and who knows how to encourage a horse to relax its jaw and poll can make most bits look like the “right choice” as long as the size and adjustment is correct.

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33

Habronemiasis Warmer temperatures are favorable to this parasite.

W

hile habronemiasis is often thought of as a southern horse problem, it can occur in horses in other areas as well.

Other names for habronemiasis include summer sores, granular dermatitis and jack sores. The problem is most common in the Southeast United States This is a parasite problem that can range from minor to severe.

The parasites behind habronemiasis are stomach worms. The three nematodes most commonly named are Habronema muscae, Habronema majus and Draschia megastoma. These are all worms that can live in your horse’s stomach.

They pass their embryonated eggs into manure where houseflies and stable flies may ingest them. The larvae then move to the mouthparts of the flies and get deposited on moist areas of your horse while the flies are feeding.

While any horse is susceptible to these parasites, one study showed Arabians at high risk compared to Thoroughbreds. That difference in breed prevalence may be related to how much time the horses spent outdoors in warm weather. Temperatures above 70 degrees F are ideal for the flies that spread the larvae.

Moist areas include around the eyes, mucous membranes near the mouth or around the penis of a stallion or gelding. Larvae deposited near your horse’s mouth will get swallowed and go on to complete the life cycle. Any skin abrasions or open wounds are also potential sites for the larvae to set up housekeeping. The larvae do some damage directly simply by migrating into tissues and causing irritation.

However, much of the reaction is from the horse’s own immune system responding to the invaders.

The hyperreactivity reaction leads to granulation tissue (think proud flesh) and delayed heal34

Credit: Habronemiasis (swamp cancer).

By permission. Knottenbelt DC, Pascoe RR, Diseases and Disorders of the Horse, Saunders, 2003

ing of wounds. The proliferative granulation tissue may contain small yellow granules that are actually the remains of the larvae.

Any of the areas of habronemiasis may be ulcerated, bleed easily and stimulate your horse to itch and rub. Of course, the rubbing and itching leads to more tissue damage and more sites for potential larvae deposits.

The three big areas that habronema parasites and their larvae damage are around the eyes, on the skin and in the stomach. The three areas require different strategies for treatment and prevention.

Ocular habronemiasis generally has lesions on the conjunctiva (moist tissues around the eyeball), on the third eyelid itself or on the eyelids. Owners may first notice what appear to be ulcerated growths, especially in the corner of the eye. Again, horses often rub these areas and make things worse.

Applying corticosteroid ointment may help reduce the reactivity for small and fairly fresh lesions.

Chronic sores may require surgical removal. Prevention is by far the best way to go.

Preventing habronemiasis around the eyes means strict fly control.

A properly fitted fly mask can be ideal. If your horse won’t tolerate a fly mask, consider the “roll on” fly repellants around the eyes. These

will need to be applied at least once a day.

On the skin, habronemiasis may need to be differentiated from cancerous growths, proud flesh and fungal infections. The only way to do this for sure is by a surgical biopsy. Occasionally a skin scrape of the area may reveal larvae when examined microscopically.

Obviously fly control is the best way to prevent habronemiasis on the skin as well as around the eyes. Most flysheets don’t cover the whole body and certainly the prepuce and penis are usually left exposed to potential fly visits. The granulomatous sores on the skin may regress on their own somewhat during the cold months but without treatment, may recur with warmer weather. Since the horse’s own body contributes to the reaction, some individual horses may have more of a reaction that others.

Use of fly sprays, fly repellants and environmental modifications can all help. Be sure to put fly spray around your male horses’ prepuces.

Encourage bug eating birds like purple martins. Consider use of fly parasites – sort of like fighting fire with fire – that lay their eggs in fly pupae and thereby destroy the fly larvae before they hatch. Practice good manure management – cleaning stalls and pastures frequently – dragging pastures, etc. Put fly strips around your barn and consider the use of fans to keep flies away from the horses.

It is important to make sure any open wounds are covered to prevent fly damage and larval deposition. A heavy ointment may suffice or you may need to bandage or cover the area physically.

The sores found on the skin may respond to symptomatic treatment such as corticosteroid ointments, antibiotic ointments and cleaning.

Systemic steroids and anti-inflammatory medications may help.

Silver colloid ointments have also been used successfully. Many end up requiring surgical removal or cauterization to kill the larvae and halt the granulation buildup.

The third area where these nematodes can cause problems is in your horse’s stomach as they

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014

drain nutrients. This is generally a minor problem but attacking the worms here can help to prevent the other manifestations. Ivermectin has been the dewormer of choice but moxidectin also appears to be effective.

If you find habronemiasis infections on horses in your area, you need to be prepared for yearly battles. Fly control and proper management of manure are important with or without habronema parasites. Having a preventive plan in place along with scheduled dewormings, as needed, can minimize your horse’s risk of developing this problem. Try to do a daily visual and hands on check of your horses. As with so many health problems, if this condition is detected early, treatment is generally more successful and less expensive – a win/win situation all round!

Read more here. http://medical-dictionary.thefreedictionary. com/habronemiasis Article by Contributing Veterinary Editor Debra M. Eldredge DVM.

Laminitis Emergency Know how to recognize it and immediately react to it.

M

ost of us know that when laminitis occurs, the hoof’s laminae — “fingers” of connective tissue that make up the white line and help hold the coffin bone in place — become intensely inflamed. If the damage is extensive, the attachments can become too weak to hold the coffin bone and it rotates out of position. It can even sink down closer to the sole.

We also know that laminitis is extremely painful for the horse and that it can have lasting effects.

What many of us may not know is how to recognize laminits as quickly as possible and what to do for our horse if laminitis does set in.

Stages of Laminitis

Early/prodromal stage. The horse isn’t yet lame. If you catch a horse at this stage of laminitis, the feet will feel abnormally cold. What’s going on is that the trigger for the laminitis – whatever it is (see sidebar) - is causing the vessels within the foot to spasm. In experimental models of laminitis, which were induced by carbohydrate overload or blackwalnut toxicity, the severe decrease in blood flow lasts for a couple hours, followed by a return to nearnormal temperatures.

Acute stage. At this point, somewhere between eight to 24 hours after the laminitis trigger, the horse will be lame.

Those initial couple hours of reduced blood flow deprive the feet and hooves of sufficient oxygen and nutrients and cause cell damage.

When the blood flow returns, the damaged tissues trigger an inflammatory reaction that again reduces blood flow to the foot. But this time, the extreme swelling and edema of the tissues literally crimp off small blood vessels, thus further reducing blood flow to vital tissues.

The inflammation again triggers increased blood flow to the foot — which now feels hot — with

The SoftRide boot is a huge help to a horse with laminitis.

pulses in the digital arteries pounding. However, circulation to some areas, most notably the toe region, is still compromised, especially if the bone rotates and physically pinches off blood vessels. Of course, pain is a hallmark component of inflammation, which is why your horse doesn’t want to walk or bear weight on his feet during a laminitis episode.

Recovery. If the laminitis trigger is removed, inflammation normally subsides within 72 hours. Pockets of serum within the foot may make their way to the coronary band or sole to exit as abscesses over the next several months, causing a period of increased pain until they drain.

However, despite these extensive insults, horses with laminitis can return to soundness. Keep in mind, though, that simply having laminitis once now predisposes the horse to laminitis in the future since damaged lamina are known to not heal in a pristine manner.

First Aid

If you suspect your horse is developing laminitis, act immediately.

The first hours are critical to reducing permanent damage and alleviating the intense pain your horse feels.

Remove the trigger. Anything that could be the suspected trigger for the episode should be removed and

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35

the veterinarian contacted immediately. The sooner you can reverse early circulatory problems or put the lid on inflammation, the better.

Cool the feet. Although cooling the feet has been criticized by some, medical research does prove that it is instrumental in helping to manage inflammation in the acute stage of laminitis. It should be instituted immediately if you suspect laminitis.

Ice water is an excellent way to cool the feet. Some horses require sedation in order to stand in an ice water bucket.

Here are a few tips for success: 1. Use a rubber feed bucket. It’s safer if the horse happens to move around in them and provides better traction standing in one.

2. Place the hoof in the empty bucket first. Slowly add ice around the foot, talking to the horse while

Typical Causes Of Laminitis The most common cause of laminitis is obesity.

Second to that, horses may become laminitic when consuming lush green grass. Some have been reported to gorge themselves on it and develop laminitis days later, others that live on green grass develop low-grade laminitis over time.

Other causes of laminitis include:

36

•

Plant-Related: Black walnut (shavings as bedding, or ingestion), red oak acorns or buds, Hoary Alyssum, black locust bark/leaves/ sprouts, white clover, Avocado skin/leaves/pits, selenium-accumulating plants (Astragalus species (Milkvetch), Prince’s plume, Woody aster).

•

Toxicities: Rattlesnake venom, selenium overdose (supplements or plants), mercury ingestion, blister beetle (mechanism probably through damage to the intestinal lining).

•

Drug-Related: Corticosteroids, vaccination complication, severe deworming reactions.

•

Illnesses/ Sepsis/ Endotoxemia: Examples include: Complication of colic or surgery. Infections that involve the intestinal tract like Potomac Horse fever, salmonella and colitis. Severe bacterialinfections like strangles.

•

Carbohydrate Overload: The classic “horse got into the grain bin” scenario.

•

MetabolicDisorders: High cortisol levels as a result of pituitary tumors (Cushing’s disease). Insulin resistance.

•

Pregnancy: Late pregnancy, possibly due to increased body weight. Pregnancy-related insulin resistance. Retained placentas.

•

Road Founder: This refers to horses that develop laminitis after working on hard surfaces for a long time. It’s caused by a mechanical tearing of the laminar attachments due to the hoof wall absorbing more concussion and weight than under soft ground conditions, where the sole and frog are more likely to directly contact the ground and/or become packed with a dirt cushion.

Horses with overly high heels that tip the coffin bone down toward the ground, or long toes that shift weightbearing more toward the front of the foot and away from the heels/frog put the horse at increased risk.

you do it to keep him calm.

3. Slowly add water up to the level of the mid-pastern.

4. Stand with the horse (untied is safest).

5. Ice one foot at a time, unless you’re able to sedate the horse for the procedure.

6. Icing for at least 20 minutes is recommended. The longer you can ice, the better, if you are in the early stages of laminitis Ice-water boots and ice wraps are also available from various manufacturers, and they work with varying degrees of success. For laminitis, though, we’d stick with real ice in a bucket. If you have no ability to ice the feet, at least run cold water directly from a hose over the feet for a minimum of 20 minutes to help slow inflammation.

Administer medications. Every case of laminitis is handled a bit differently to address specific issues of each horse. However, it is widely accepted that the use of nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) is a cornerstone of laminitis therapy. NSAIDs - such as bute, banamine and Previcox - each have varying degrees of success on a case-to-case basis. Your veterinarian will determine which is best for your horse.

Some veterinarians also add in acepromazine. Contrary to popular belief, acepromazine does nothing to mitigate pain. It actually changes the deformability of the red blood cell wall, which in theory will increase bloods chances of flowing through compressed arterioles (small blood vessels) in the lamina. Since blood brings nutrients and oxygen to tissues, its flow is literally vital.

Your veterinarian may also use intravenous or topical DMSO as well, under the theory that it can help reduce tissue damage by binding and neutralizing harmful byproducts that the body produces during an inflammatory episode.

A word of advice: Make sure you give those NSAIDS exactly on schedule and at the exact dose the veterinarian orders. If you’re a few hours late and the medications run out, your horse may start an inflammatory cycle (complete with tissue

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damage and pain) all over again. Be consistent and accurate with your medication administration.

Take radiographs. Radiographs help determine if any rotation or sinking of the coffin bone has occurred.

They should be repeated any time there is a worsening or if the horse fails to improve as expected.

These “X-rays” are so important that many farriers now request radiographs are taken each time the hoof is trimmed. Because the coffin bone can move between visits, radiographs give the Styrofoam can comfort the horse with laminitis. You can farrier a fresh perspective on purchase hoof-shaped pieces from EDSS Systems. where and how to trim the hoof. The farrier’s goal is to optimize angles in the hoof to supthis work on a laminitic horse must port healthy blood flow. If he or she be determined by the veterinarian does not have radiographs to guide and farrier on a case-by-case basis. them, then it’s a trim made in their Some horses cannot have their st “estimation.” Unfortunately, for heel trimmed aggressively at first, horses with laminitis, every milliothers may need to stand in special meter counts, so the more precision, boots such as Styrofoam pads or the better!

Soft-Ride boots (more below). The Call in an experienced farrier. Be goal is to remove mechanical forces sure he or she is willing to work that may put tension on the damwith your own veterinarian over aged and weakened laminae and the long term. also redistribute the load to other Rest the horse. Although you parts of the hoof such as the sole may sometimes hear otherwise, and the frog. an acutely laminitic horse should Note: There are a mind-boggling not be forced to walk. The pain is number of trim methods being toutnature’s way of telling the horse not ed by this expert or that for regular to stress the damaged feet. Forced trimming, laminitis and other hoof walking can worsen damage. ailments. We advise you to stick If possible, immobilize the horse with the basics and discuss your in a well-bedded stall or a small options in depth with your vetsand or peat moss paddock. Bederinarian and farrier. It’s best if all ding allows your horse to take presdecisions are made through group sure off the rim of the foot (where communication, preferably with the lamina are) and gives him the radiographs assisting the process. incentive to lay down and take This is not the time to go messthe load off of the already stressed ing around with a new trimming lamina. theory! Your goal is to ensure the stability of the coffin bone, maxiMechanical Care mize blood delivery to all tissues, The time-honored approach for and relieve your horse’s pain. treating the acutely laminitic horse Your laminitic horse can be is to pull the shoes, lower excess greatly helped through the use of heel, back up the toes to establish Soft Ride boots, the ones with the a more parallel position between purple/ turquoise inserts. They are the coffin bone and the hoof wall hugely beneficial for the laminitic and keep the horse on a deep, soft horse, and we find the company is surface. This is a physiologically responsive to the needs of the cussound trim, however, when to begin tomer and the horse. www.softride-

boots.com Or, you can choose to fit the hoof with a layer of Styrofoam, which will help relieve pain and protect the hoof from further damage. You can get precut Styrofoam blocks in a kit of four that can be trimmed for precise fit (sizes 00 to 4). They can be purchased from Equine Digit Support System, Inc. (EDSS Systems, http://www. shopedss.com/categories/Therapuetic/Pads/).

Bottom Line.

If you suspect laminitis, act immediately. It’s far better to be over cautious with laminitis than to dismiss initial symptoms and not call in your veterinarian. Once you’re past the acute phase, successful rehabilitation strives to shift the landing and weight bearing to the back of the foot, where it belongs. Good, regular farrier care, working directly with your veterinarian, is a critical element in your horse’s recovery.

Be prepared to see your farrier every four weeks, since laminitic hooves are dynamic. The bone can move and/or the hoof can grow in a bizarre fashion due to abnormal blood flow. It’s far easier for your horse to have more frequent visits from the farrier where he or she just rasps a bit “here and there” than to handle a full-blown eight-week farrier visit.

Many horses are rehabilitated successfully barefoot, while others require the help of specialized shoeing systems like heart bars or Equine Digital Support System (EDSS). The important thing to remember is that every laminitis case is different and what works for one horse might not work for another.

Work closely with your veterinarian and farrier in order to achieve the best result.

Article by Contributing Veterinary Editor Grant Miller, DVM.

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Horse Journal OnCall Can I Show Bareback?

Our reader wants to know if show rules permit riding without a saddle.

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don’t have a saddle that fits my horse, and I am supposed to ride in an upcoming horse show. I have looked over this certain shows rules, and it says that it follows the AQHA rules. I looked through those and found nothing that said I couldn’t show bareback. However, as always, I could be missing something. Would I be able to show my horse without a saddle in trail classes and gaited classes?

Answer from Associate Editor Margaret Freeman: There are basically two types of shows, those licensed by specific organizations and those that aren’t.

Licensed shows must follow specific rules and must require its competitors to follow that same body of rules; otherwise the show will be fined and can even lose its license for the future. Such rulebooks are usually written to provide a level playing field for competitors and address safety and welfare of both horses and competitors.

Unlicensed shows, such as the one you are entering, will usually state that they follow a specific body of rules, such as those of the American Quarter Horse Association or the U.S. Equestrian Federation, as a shorthand reference to rules that most people know. We did find this reference to western tack in the AQHA Handbook, which could apply to your case: “SHW305.8 In all western classes, . . . horses will be shown in a western saddle and appropriate bridle.”

When a show isn’t licensed, management can also make any exceptions to such rules they want – and often do. For example, your show is offering a gaited class, but the AQHA doesn’t have gaited classes, so that is already an exception.

Therefore, you should first contact the management of your show 38

to see if you will be allowed to compete bareback. It is totally the prerogative of show management, although they may also consult the judge to make sure he is comfortable with any changes from generally accepted procedure. The show needs to allow other competitors to use the same exceptions, not just you.

The prize list for your show refers to English and Western attire but not tack, so there may be some wiggle room in the rules. Don’t be disappointed if they say no to your bareback request, which may be a safety consideration for them. Unfortunately, even though they have games and timed events, they don’t specifically offer bareback classes.

Perhaps you can suggest they do so in the future.

In the meantime, does your horse have a specific saddle-fit issue that would keep you from borrowing a standard type of saddle? Perhaps a corrective saddle pad could help.

As a dressage judge at shows recognized by the USEF (plus Morgan and Arab associations), I have learned over the years that many people just aren’t very good at reading rule books. Rule books can be tough going, but it is a waste of money to not fully understand the rules in advance to arriving at a show, paying your entry fees and then be eliminated for a violation.

Most associations are very good at answering rules questions if you give them a call. Licensed shows also will have some sort of steward who can answer your questions before you tack up.

Last year, I was judging a USEFrecognized dressage show when a competitor stopped by my judge booth and announced: “I just wanted to tell you, I am going to ride my test without holding the reins. I looked in the rule book,

and it’s legal.” I told him it wasn’t and that if he stepped into the ring without holding the reins, I would eliminate him. I had the rule book by my hand and quickly found the relevant rule. He went to talk to the show’s technical delegate who learned he had read the rules in the jumper section, not the dressage section. My jaw still drops when I think about that one.

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Equine Insurance: It’s All About Protection Like any insurance, it seems like a waste of funds, until you need it.

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ention the word “insurance” to most people, and you’ll likely encounter an excitement level similar to that of a horse on ace. Let’s face it. The topic of insurance is boring, and insurance salespeople have a reputation for being some of the most tedious people in the world. Or as comedian Woody Allen once said, “There are worse things in life than death.

Have you ever spent an evening with an insurance salesman?” Click here to download a PDF of this article.

However, when you’re confronted with an injured or dying horse or if you’ve just been slapped with a lawsuit, it’s amazing how quickly insurance becomes important.

START WITH THE AGENT.

Finding a reputable agent who specializes in and is knowledgeable about equine insurance and your type of horses is your first step.

This may involve some research.

Most underwriters and agencies have websites and advertise, locally and nationally. You can also get quotes by e-mail or phone if you complete a questionnaire, but this may not be your best option.

Equine attorney and author of The Complete Equine Legal & Business Handbook Milton Toby suggests you talk to veterinarians, equine clinic staff and barn managers/ trainers. “You can’t beat word of mouth references,” said Toby, who added that equine insurance is a niche industry, which means most insurance companies try to provide good service to their clients. If they don’t, they usually don’t stay in business very long.

SIGN AT THE X.

Remember that a policy is a contract, a legally binding agreement between you and the carrier. As such, both parties owe certain duties to the other.

You, the insured, must know what

the terms of the policy are and what they mean. Since insurance policies have been written by lawyers in boring legal prose, most people don’t read them, or if they do, they may struggle to understand what they mean. Milton Toby says ask for clarification. “You need to know what you’re signing,” he said. Click here for information to help you understand your insurance policy.

You must also notify the underwriter and agent of any changes in the horse’s physical condition, location and/or use as soon as possible. This is particularly important Determining the honest value of your horse is critical. with mortality claims and renewals.

Honesty on the application is recover the financial loss from your imperative, according to Jorene horse’s death. Click here to learn Mize of the Jorene Mize Insurabout “Major Medical” insurance ance Agency, who has been selling for your horse. equine insurance for over 20 years.

Depending on the carrier, equine If you misrepresent or falsify informortality insurance can be obmation, especially the value of your tained for a horse that is 1 day to 20 horse, you may find the insurance years old. However, some insurers company denies your claim. impose an increase in premiums In return, your insurance comafter age 14. Beyond age 18, carriers pany should promptly respond to may restrict coverage only to theft calls and answer questions. Your or deaths resulting from certain agent should explain your policy “acts of God” (i.e., lightning, earthterms and advise you on what types quake, flood or fire). of insurance and limits you need Equine mortality insurance may and pay claims quickly. provide for “full mortality” or “limited mortality” coverage. Full MORTALITY INSURANCE. mortality insurance covers death Many people call mortality covdirectly or indirectly from most erage equine “life insurance.” accidents, illnesses or diseases, and However, since equine mortality will cover death from euthanasia insurance only pays for the value done to prevent further suffering. of the horse (either “agreed upon” (Note: Mortality insurance will not or “fair market value”) rather than cover economic euthanasia.) a horse’s anticipated lifetime future Because colic is a common, often earnings, the analogy isn’t accufatal, condition that is often amendrate. Mortality insurance helps you able to surgical treatment to pre-

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may also cover the cost of transportation of the horse to a surgical facility and aftercare. However, colic supplemental may not be available if your horse has a history of colic prior to being insured.

Along with colic coverage, most mortality policies offer an automatic “Guaranteed Coverage Extension,” which provides mortality coverage for a period of time (usually up to 12 months) after expiration of the policy, if the condition causing death occurred and was reported to the insurer during the policy period.

The less comprehensive “limited mortality” policy, also known as “perils” insurance, only covers deaths Proper, daily care may be required in order to insure under limited circumstancthe horse. es, such as fire, lightning or floods. Because this type serve a horse’s life, you’ll usually of policy is narrower in scope, it’s need to also purchase an emergenerally less expensive and may gency colic surgery supplemental be a reasonable choice when a horse rider with the full mortality policy. owner cannot get insurance for Expect to pay an additional preother reasons. mium for this.

A mortality insurance policy Colic supplementals usually have won’t cover a horse’s death if it’s a monetary limit ($3,000 or 60% of due to owner neglect or intentional the insured value of the horse) and misconduct. Some policies also

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require that your horse be under daily care and supervision. Watch for other limits, such as no coverage if the horse leaves the continental United States, unless you have written approval from the insurer.

Check your insurance company before sending your horse on a cruise.

Mortality insurance also covers theft of your horse. Before a company will pay for that, the horse must usually be gone for at least 30 days after the incident of theft has been reported to the insurer. You, as the horse owner, must report the theft to law enforcement.

LOSS OF USE.

Often added to mortality insurance is a Loss of Use policy, much like disability insurance in people. It provides coverage for a horse that suffers a permanent injury that leaves him unable to perform his intended use but doesn’t require euthanasia.

This type of insurance is geared toward the expensive performance horse. Most limit their Loss of Use coverage to 50-75% of the Full Mortality insurance value of the horse.

In some instances, the policy may allow them to take ownership of the horse or the owner will have to accept a lower payment amount if

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they wish to keep the horse.

FAIR MARKET VALUE VS. AGREED UPON VALUE.

Ask most horse owners what kind of price tag they would put on their horse’s life, and they’re likely to say it’s priceless. However, in insurance, a horse’s value is about real dollars and cents, not affection.

When buying mortality insurance, you must establish the actual monetary value of your horse. It’s critical to know whether your policy is based on an “agreed upon value” of your horse or the “fair market value” of your horse at the time of its death.

“Agreed upon” value is a dollar amount determined by the horse owner. Obviously, the higher the value of the horse, the greater the insurance cost to you will be. However, should your horse die while being insured under a mortality policy with an agreed-upon value, the carrier will pay you the full amount of the agreed-upon value.

Under a “fair market value” mortality policy, the value of a horse is the amount the horse was monetarily worth at the time its death. Predictably, legal conflicts may arise when an insured loses a horse and expects to be compensated for what they thought the horse was worth at the height of its career but only receives a fraction of that amount because, at the time of death, the horse was a retired pasture ornament. For that reason, it’s wise to opt for an “agreed upon” value mortality policy.

WHAT’S THE COST?

The current economy is making most people look carefully at their budgets, so insuring your horse may seem a low-priority expense.

However, having mortality insurance can soften the financial blow of losing your equine investment.

If you have a relatively inexpensive recreational horse and aren’t concerned about paying the veterinarian if your horse colics, you may not need mortality insurance at all. However, if you have a horse in which you’ve invested your money and your time in training and showing, or a horse, which if lost, Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014

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Use the same care choosing your insurance underwriter as you do your equipment.

means a significant financial hit to you, mortality insurance is wise.

Generally, insurance carriers calculate yearly mortality insurance premiums using a formula of 2.5% to 4.5% of an agreed value (or $25$45 per $1,000 of coverage) depending on the age, breed and discipline. An additional major medical policy usually adds $150 to $250.

WHEN THE TIME COMES.

As cold as it may sound, if you have a mortality policy on your horse, you must include your insurer in your decision as soon as your horse has died or euthanasia is indicated.

Because illnesses and injuries can quickly worsen to the point of being fatal, notifying your insurer at the very first sign of illness or injury is extremely important. Failure to do so may result in your insurer denying your mortality claim later on.

“You can never go wrong by notifying too often,” said Milton Toby.

Furthermore, insurance companies may refuse to pay if you fail to get reasonable care from a licensed veterinarian to preserve your horse’s life prior to its death.

This fact makes a strong case for purchasing a major medical policy with your mortality insurance.

If you have only mortality insurance and must do all you can from a medical standpoint to save your horse or risk having your mortality claim denied, the result could be a deceased horse along with a pile of out-of-pocket veterinary bills.

In cases where a horse must be euthanized immediately, insurance carriers will generally not require 42

pre-notification that might prolong the horse’s suffering.

However, you should have clear documentation that immediate euthanasia was necessary. This can get sticky.

Know your insurance policy’s requirements for notification and have this information, the policy number and the company’s phone number readily available wherever your horse is at the moment. It can be invaluable during a crisis. Click here for information about Insurance Underwriters.

Be sure you know what your policy’s specific requirements are following your horse’s death. You will likely be required to have a licensed veterinarian perform a post-mortem necropsy, and you may be required to preserve your horse’s body pending examination by a veterinarian from the insurance company. Some insurers require a sworn proof of loss statement to be submitted by the owner within 60 days and the company may also reserve the right to question the owner under oath within 30 days.

BOTTOM LINE.

Whether your horse is a beloved family member or a business investment, compensation for its loss can assist you with financial recovery.

However, you need to understand the policy you’ve purchased thoroughly, so you’re prepared if and when the time comes that you need to use it. It isn’t just the price of the policy that matters.

Article by Susan S. Quinn, Esq.

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Connecticut Supreme Court Rules in “Vicious” Horse Case Dangerous horses will be decided case by case.

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he Connecticut Supreme Court has issued its eagerly anticipated opinion in Vendrella, et al vs. Astriab Family Limited Partnership et al, or what has become known as the “vicious horse” case. The lawsuit centers around a horse named Scuppy which bit twoyear old Anthony Vendrella in the face as the child fed it grass while visiting the Astriabs’ farm-plant nursery. It gained national attention because the state’s highest court was asked to decide whether horses belong to a class of animals that is naturally mischievous (i.e naturally inclined to do an act that might endanger the safety of persons or property) and whether the owner (or keeper) of a domesticated horse that has never displayed “mischievous” propensities (i.e., biting) has a duty to take reasonable steps to prevent injuries that are foreseeable because horses have naturally “mischievous” propensities.

In finding for the plaintiff child and his family, the Court rejected the horse owner’s/keeper’s argument that they should be immune from any liability for injuries caused by a horse even if they were negligent in controlling the animal.

The Court summarized its ruling by stating, “We conclude that, as a matter of law, the owner or keeper of a domestic animal has a duty to take reasonable steps to prevent the animal from causing injuries that are foreseeable because the animal belongs to a class of animals that is naturally inclined to cause such injuries, regardless of whether the animal had previously caused an injury or was roaming at large.” The Court further held that “horses, as a species, have a natural inclination to bite” and that owners (and keep-

ers) of horses may be held liable for negligence if they fail to take reasonable steps and an injury results.

What the Connecticut Supreme Court Didn’t Say: While it sounds like the Connecticut Supreme Court justices take a dim view of horses as warm and fuzzy creatures, horse owners can take some comfort in knowing that the Court did not rule that all horses may automatically be presumed to be vicious, nor did it impose a strict liability standard on horse owners/keepers. Rather, the Court held that the issue of a horse’s dangerous nature must be decided on a case-by-case basis. In the Vendrella case (which will be sent back to the trial court for final determination of liability), the court ruled that it is up to the jury to decide two questions: first, whether the horse was dangerous, thus making injury foreseeable, and second, whether the horse owner/keeper was negligent in meeting a standard of care in controlling the horse.

Don’t shoot us. We’re just the messenger here. But predictably this court’s “a horse is a horse, of course, of course” ruling has alarmed many in the equine world who fear that the Connecticut Supreme Court’s decision will open the flood gates to higher (perhaps impossibly higher) insurance premiums. It is important to understand that this decision by the Connecticut Supreme Court is binding (in other words, is the law) only in Connecticut and not in any other states, although other state courts may look to this decision for guidance in ruling on similar cases before them.

In an effort to head off potential insurance rate hikes due to additional liability, Connecticut Governor Malloy proposed legislation

that would specifically designate that horses are not vicious. “While we are still reviewing the opinion released today by the Supreme Court, at first glance, it appears that our legislation is all the more timely,” Malloy said.

The proposed legislation (Connecticut House Bill No. HB05044) was unanimously reported out of the Environmental Committee, one of the first steps to getting the bill before the legislature for a vote.

Connecticut State Representative and horse owner Diana Urban supports the Governor’s proposed legislation and said, “What happens if they take this ruling, which I don’t think is a Draconian ruling, and they decide that this means that horses are vicious and the insurance companies get in the middle of it and make it impossible to have a horse? That’s why I think it’s really good he’s continuing down the avenue he’s on.

Whether insurance companies use this case as grounds to increase their rates is yet to be seen. But in the meantime, horse owners and keepers everywhere would do well to take notice that cases like the Vendrella case are only a horse bite or a kick away and that they should take all reasonable steps to protect others from harm and themselves from liability.

Article by Susan Quinn, Esq.

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Hock Pain Is Prevalent in Horses A horse’s hock problems may begin years before they’re noticed.

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eterinarians can often predict where a horse might be sore, based just on the horse’s athletic endeavors. Jumping, for instance, is hard on the coffin joints.

Roping and driving can be tough on the withers and shoulders. But there’s one ailment that seems to be prevalent in just about every equine endeavor: hock pain. That makes hock problems a subject that we all should understand, especially learning what we can do to free our horses of performance limiting problems arising in the hocks.

SEVERAL JOINT SPACES IN ONE.

The hock joint is a rather unique joint. Midway down the hind leg, it makes up the articular junction between the tibia and the cannon bones. it’s actually made up of several rows of bones, each its own joint pouch. So, in a way, there are several joint spaces in the hock.

Interestingly, three of the four joint spaces hardly bend at all (which more or less negates what it means to be a joint!). They simply are

Note the four joint spaces in the horse’s hock.

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rows of bones stacked on top of one another.

But don’t let this fool you. Just because they move minimally doesn’t mean that they can’t develop bone spurs and pain. Oddly enough, the top space (called the tibiotarsal or tarsocrural space) that does all of the bending, shows signs of degenerative change less often than the lower less-bending spaces. Yes, you read it right: The joint space that bends seems to be OK much of the time, whereas the spaces that aren’t flexing much seem to show all the wear and tear!

So, where is this wear and tear coming from? Commonly, the joint spaces that make up the hock will become inflamed due to the repetitive trauma brought on by activity. Joint inflammation (arthritis) erodes cartilage and results in bone spur production in these spaces.

See signs of hock pain sidebar.

PREDISPOSING FACTORS.

We’ve established that repetitive trauma on the joint from athletic performance can cause degenerative changes to the cartilage and bones. But, why do some horses seem to suffer more from hock arthritis than others? There are several possible reasons: 1) Some types of riding are more likely to lead to hock problems than others. Race horses and futurity Quarter Horses that train heavily in the juvenile stage of their lives often show early signs of hock-related pain. Jumping horses and reiners commonly have hock issues. Even though You’ll still see plenty of hock-sore horses in other disciplines, it seems that some are just more likely to cause problems than others.

2) Genetics likely play a role in arthritic degeneration of joints.

The stop-action element of photography can clearly show the stress a single joint must endure.

Sometimes there’s little to explain why a horse has hock problems.

For instance, a horse that has been given ample time to “grow up” and has been given access to pasture to roam may still show arthritic changes early in life.

Some horses that are worked very hard (like 5,000-mile endurance Arabians) will have beautiful hock joints when radiographed, while other horses that have been worked very lightly (such as a warmblood doing training-level dressage) may have some scary bone spurs.

Can it be that they just have “bad hocks” running in their blood?

Likely yes, since there are hundreds of documented instances in which young, lightly used horses show severe degenerative hock joint changes for no explicable reason other than “being born that way.”

3) Swinging on the genetic coattails is osteochondrosis aka OC or OCD. Known to have a genetic component, this defect in the cartilage lining the joint spaces can lead to premature arthritis. Although it most commonly occurs in the stifle, the hock comes in close second as the joint of predilection. OC is also linked to diet and accelerated growth in foals. Although a relatively few horses are affected by osteochondrosis, it definitely should be counted as a predisposing factor

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to hock pain.

4) Management can play a large role in the exacerbation of hock pain. The saying, “Bodies in motion tend to stay in motion” really rings true with horses too. Their joints can stiffen up at a relatively young age if they’re forced to stand still in a stall day in and day out.

Think about it: If you take a 16hand horse and stand it in a 12x12 stall for 22 hours per day that would be similar to you going into your coat closet and spending most of your time there. We don’t give these horses much room to move! If we stood still for two hours, most of us would complain of some pain.

Since their nervous systems work the same as ours, and their joints are made up of the same components as ours, it’s only plausible that they suffer from the same dolorous sensations that we do when they stand still all day in s stall.

5) Conformation. See hock conformation sidebar.

ADDRESSING HOCK PAIN.

Simply identifying hock pain is half the battle for veterinarians, as some horse owners practically require an intervention in order to get them to admit that their horse has hock problems. But once you can prove that to yourself, you’re well on your way to a happier horse.

We’ve covered subjects such as cortisone, joint supplements, joint health, and physical therapy options in depth in past articles.

All of that information applies to hocks. Here we’ll discuss the most successful methods for managing painful hocks. See hot or cold therapy sidebar.

1) Joint supplements: Adequan, Legend, Pentosan, glucosamine, chondroitin, and MSM are among the dozens of supplements that can aid aching joints. These products must be given in adequate dosages to make a difference, so be sure you read the product label before you purchase it to ensure it can get the job done. Read about Adequan vs.

Legend vs. Pentosan.

2) Management changes such as weight loss and turn-out can make a tremendous positive difference in combating hock pain. It’s no secret 46

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Post-legged conformation can lead to bog spavin and hock arthritis.

that excess pounds weigh heavy on the joints, and that horses standing in box stalls have stiffer joints than those who live out in large open spaces.

3) Topical application of DMSO (generic), Surpass (requires prescription from your veterinarian), arnica liniment (we suggest Sore No-More) or capsaicin (we like Capsa-Cream) or the use of hot/cold therapy (see sidebar) can also alleviate joint pain.

4) NSAIDs. Daily feeding of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory (NSAID) medications is common with hock issues. However, we know this practice can lead to gastro-intestinal disturbances. If you must rely on NSAIDS, using Previcox (yes it’s made for dogs, but you can use it with horses - ask your vet) or Equioxx (both firicoxib) may be a safer choice since these products tend to be gentler on the stomach and colon than bute, banamine, aspirin, ketoprofen or naproxen.

Talk with your veterinarian.

5) Cortisone injections. Injecting the hock joint spaces with cortisone is an excellent way to provide long term anti-inflammatory effect and pain relief in the hock joint.

Depending on management factors such as weight, stabling and the horse’s activity (discipline and intensity), an owner may see a dura-

tion of action that lasts between six and 15 months following hock cortisone injections. The long-term benefit of cortisone makes this option popular among horse owners managing hock pain.

6) Tildren or zoledronic acid administration can help to strengthen the cortices of the hock bones by increasing their calcium content.

Owners who have had limited success with other therapies have reported that the administration of these medications has helped their horses with hock issues.

7) In extreme cases, surgical drilling of the hock joints or chemical fusion of the hocks via joint injection has been able to stabilize painful horses. In most of these cases, performance will still be limited and the horse may still experience some pain, but hock fusion can provide some pain alleviation in a subset of cases.

BOTTOM LINE.

Horses often experience hock pain relatively early on in life, so simply identifying horses with hock pain is a huge step toward solving the problem. Hock-joint conformation variations can either aid or hinder a horse depending on the type and level of your riding.

Hock joints tend to respond well to many types of therapies, so if you’re looking to address a hock issue, call your veterinarian now.

There are many options for horses with sore hocks.

Article by Contributing Veterinary Editor Grant Miller, VMD

Hock Conformation And Lameness Ideally, the horse’s hind legs will not be too far apart (“basewide”), nor too close together (“base-narrow”) because interfering, splints and abnormal stresses on the joints, bones and soft tissues can result. Preferably, the hock joints will not Sickle hocks Straight hocks Normal hocks be turned in (bowlegged”) or out (“cow-hocked”), but rather, they will be oriented so that the point of the hock sticks out directly behind the horse. From the side, a hock that is too bent (“sickle-hocked”) or too straight (“post-legged”) will be abnormally stressed.

That said, there’s no ideal “blueprint” for the perfect horse body. Secretariat, arguably one of the most identified horses in the world because of his incredible racing success, was straight through the hock (also called “post legged”). But that didn’t seem to slow him down!

Conformation “faults” are noted when the position or posture of the body may limit a horse’s ability to perform a specific task or can predispose the horse to lameness. No horse is without conformational strengths and weaknesses. The question is, are those strengths and weaknesses factors that will influence the horse’s ability to complete the tasks being asked of it? That’s because conformation faults don’t directly translate to lameness per se. Rather, the type and intensity of work the horse is being asked to do determines if lameness occurs.

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Muddy Walkways and Horses We horse people love everything about spring except the mud!

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o you want an inexpensive way to stop your walksways from becoming boot-pulling, squishy, wet mudways? Well, visit your local floor-covering store and ask about carpet scraps and remnants. Long, narrow pieces are usually priced cheaply as there is little demand for them. (We obtained ours from the dealer’s dumpster, who encouraged us to take all we wanted.) Try to find a solid color. Horses may only see in shades of gray, but they’re going to get bug-eyed at stripes and patterns on the ground.

Lay your carpet at your gates or along muddy paths, any high traffic area you’d like to protect.

You might want to start with short pieces initially, gradually adding to the length and width. Your solid citizens will take a few tentative steps,

Carpet remnants can help with mud.

but soon stride right out. Most horses seem to enjoy the cushioning and stability, which is a big improvement over slippery, shoe-pulling mud. It will take patience to convince your Nervous Nellies the carpeting is a good thing, but they’ll get there.

Let them sniff it, encourage them to step across a few times before asking them to travel the entire length. Be safe. Take your time introducing the carpet.

Once that spring sun gets things turning green, shift your pathways every few days so the grass underneath has a chance to grow. When the ground finally dries out, knock the mud off your carpet and roll it up for storage until the next muddy season.

Article by Beth Benard, Contributing Writer.

USEF Live Links It’s a GREAT weekend for equestrians! Watch the live streams.

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ou can watch the 2014 Kentucky Reining Cup live on USEF-Network Live TV here: http://www.usefnetwork. com/featured/2014KRC/ Or, you can watch the cross-country action of the Rolex Kentucky 4-star CCI - U.S. eventing’s biggest competition! Watch it here: http://www.usefnetwork.com/featured/2014Rolex/

Amazing Reining Video - Riding Backward, Riderless Spin The winning freestyle ride at the 2014 Kentucky Reining Cup included riding backwards and a the horse spinning while riderless. The crowd absolutely loved it! Here’s Dan James as Tonto!

William Fox-Pitt Wins Rolex Kentucky on Bay My Hero See the excitement of William Fox-Pitt’s winning show jumping ride at Rolex Kentucky.

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Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014

Beautiful Tribute This short piece is well worth a read.

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ometimes it all hits at once, as dressage trainer/ rider, author and actress Pam Stone so beautifully writes. We think it’s well worth a read. http:// www.tryondailybulletin.com/2014/04/24/its-okay/

Rolex Kentucky on TV It’s eventing’s biggest American event - a four-star CCI.

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overage of America’s only Four-Star Three-Day Event, April 24-27 at the Kentucky Horse Park, in Lexington, includes an NBC broadcast – the Rolex Equestrian Championships presented by Land Rover - which will air on Sunday, May 4, from 2 to 3 p.m.

Leading up to the NBC telecast, USEFNetwork.com will offer live, wall-to-wall coverage of the dressage, cross-country, and show jumping phases, which can be viewed on via the Internet.

The live broadcast schedule is listed below and is also available on the USEF Network coverage page, www. usefnetwork.com/featured/2014Rolex/. All broadcast times are subject to change.

So mark your calendars: · April 24: LIVE Dressage on USEFNetwork.com, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. EDT · April 25: LIVE Dressage on USEFNetwork.com, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. EDT · April 26: LIVE Cross Country on USEFNetwork. com, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. EDT · April 27: LIVE Show Jumping on USEFNetwork. com, 1:15 p.m. to 3 p.m. EDT; Awards Ceremony on USEFNetwork.com, 3 p.m. EDT May 4: Rolex Equestrian Championships on NBC, 2 to

Steffan Peters on Legolas 92 at Del Mar This horse has amazing potential. Beautiful ride set to the music of David Bowie and U2. Steffen Peters aboard Lagolas 92 at Del Mar (Calif.).

Good-bye, Blanco

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hank you for your part in Lord of the Rings.

Blanco played Shadowfax in Lord of the Rings.

“Shadowfax will have no harness. You do not ride Shadowfax; he is willing to carry you -- or not.”

Breathtakingly beautiful video. Read more: http://www. digitaljournal.com/pr/1846796#ixzz2ygBSU6n0 See more at: http://horse-journal.com/video/goodbye-blanco-16209#sthash.h4rKeXoA.dpuf

FEI - Horses and Ballet

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echnology is so amazing . . . love this very short film of how they did it! Watch the video below, and read excellent the story from Business Wire here. - See more at: http://horse-journal.com/video/feihorses-ballet-16243#sthash.cv21VIKo.dpuf

Nugget Needs a Home

This 11-year-old gelding is versatile and fun.

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his 11-year-old Appaloosa gelding is in Colorado, ready for a new home. He’s versatile - the photos of him at www.equine.com show him under both English and Western tack - and he’s fun.

He likes to feel engaged and working. His temperament is rated a 5, which is right in the middle of ranks 1 (bomproof) to 10.

If you have room for this 15-hand gelding, you can learn more about him here.

The adoption farm is asking $1500 for him.

Nugget is part of the A Home for Every Horse Program, which was founded by the AIM Equine Network, publishers of Horse Journal, EQUUS, The Trail Rider and many more magazines and websites. You can see additional rescue horses at www.equine.com.

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014

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