Horse & Style Magazine May/June 2016

Page 87

the equestrian world embraced the use of it and wore it happily in the hunt field. While today’s show shirts in the hunter ring come in a wide variety, their basic structure is the same with the following traditional features: tall wrap collar, covered placket, button-down shirt, semi-fitted body, and most often long sleeves. The collar of a ratcatcher is in the mandarin style, and it’s covered by either a separate, matching choker, or a stock tie. This style derives its Western name from the attire worn by Mandarins in Imperial China. A mandarin collar is short, straight, unfolded, and starts at the neckline and rises vertically one to two inches. The edges of the collar either barely touch in the center in front of the neck, or overlap slightly. The overlapping collars are typically a continuation of the shirt’s placket. The term placket refers to the double layers of material that hold the buttons and buttonholes in a shirt. Plackets can be found almost anywhere on a shirt (neckline, cuff of the sleeve), as well as at the waist of a skirt or pants. While the ratcatcher’s style crossed over into the equestrian world via foxhunting, these shirts are still worn today in English riding disciplines. The traditional, classic shirt is white with long sleeves. Recent enhancements, however, include pastel-colored, striped or patterned shirts that complement the jacket as well as shirts with a flash of colorful style inside the collar and the cuffs. Today, equestrians have more options with ratcatchers than we ever could have dreamed. The material is typically cotton or polyester, but some shirts have built-in spandex, or mesh backings for added breathability. Shirts are tailored beautifully, and those for women come with custom, feminine cuts. Both the fabric and the tailoring are designed to give equestrians the mobility they desire. Some have chokers that are built-in, so leaving one behind is a thing of the past. While the ratcatcher may have had a less than glamorous beginning, it has since flourished. Today’s shirts are beautifully constructed with the comfort and fit of the individual in mind. Our stylish ratcatchers or show shirts portray tradition with flair in and out of the show ring – no rodents necessary!

Two examples of beautifully tailored and thoughtfully designed modern show shirts. Both shirts incorporate elements from vintage ratcatchers into a combination of luxury fabrics and flattering silhouettes. Top: Middy N Me “Sweet Jane” Riding Shirt in “Perfect Pink,” $295. Middy N Me shirts are made of crisp premium weight 100% cotton and linens. All shirts are patterned, cut and sewn in their South Carolina factory; Bottom: Le Fash Grey Check Open Placket Show Shirt, $195. Le Fash shirts are the original Magnetic Collar Show Shirt™. The style combines a traditional look with a modern fit and feel.


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