KELSEY CHOW DOUBLE LIFE:
COLUMBIA & HOLLYWOOD AN EXCLUSIVE ON BREAKING INTO FASHION BY NYTIMES’
SHOPPING DEALS JUST FOR STUDENTS!
WHEN COSMETICS EXPIRE ARE WE LABEL OBSESSED? MUPPETS AT THE MUSEUM OF MOVING IMAGE
for your daily dose of style and coverage of campus’ fashion events!
Interview with Bloggers Tessa Mu of CoutureLust dishes on what it’s like to be a style blogger!
CU Closets Check out other Columbian’s enviable wardrobes!
A Week in the Life Get a peek of a week’s worth of amazing style of our uber-stylish menswear director, Martin Hamery.
In This Issue
Letter from the Editor
Hot @ Hoot
Student Profile: Jordan Sholem
Neighborhood Profile: NoLIta
Are We Label-Obsessed?
More is More Fashion
Menswear: Where to Shop
Rise of American Fashion
Cathy Horyn on Breaking Into
Cover Story: Kelsey Chow
Creative: Guys and Gals
Menswear: Temperature Drops,
Style: Best of the Boroughs
Fashion Week Backstage Pass:
Tory Burch Spring/Summer 2011
Kelseyâ€™s impression of our beloved Hoot owl.
Health + Beauty 46
Beauty: Split Personality
Benefits of Yoga
Beauty Products to Try
Life Span of Makeup
Winter Munchies in New York
Jim Henson and the Muppets
Artist as Jeweler Exhibit
Food Trucks HOOT www.hootmag.org
Masthead Editor in Chief Anna Cooperberg, CC’12 Secretary & Managing Editor: Shelby Maniccia, BC’14 Creative Director: Michele Levbarg-Klein, CC’12 Style Director: Vivian Luo, CC’12 Menswear Director: Martin Hamery, CC’13 Beauty + Health Director: Jina Lim, CC’13 Art + Design Director: Sharon Wu, CC’13 Features Director: Julián Mancías, CC’12 Arts + Entertainment Director: Nicole Estevez, CC’13 Copy Chief: Katie Lee, CC’14 Public Relations Director & Publisher: Nam Phatraprasit, CC’14 Blog Editor: Rubii Pham, CC’14 Web Editor: Eric Wong, CC’15 Treasurer: Donia Abdelaziz, CC’12
Creative Assistants Lydia Ding, CC’13 Alex Memmi, BC’14
Assistants Julia Baum, BC’15 Jade Bonacolta, BC’15 Molly Gleeson, CC’15 Jennifer Ong, CC’12 Sissi Qiu, GS’12
Assistant: Shelby Maniccia, BC’14 Writer: Andrew Gonzalez, CC’15
HEALTH & BEAUTY
Health Editor: Nora Mueller, BC’15 Beauty Editor: Stephanie Balakrishnan, CC’15 Writers: Jennifer Mayrock, BC’15 Tiana Takanaga, CC’14
Writers Olivia Aylmer, BC’15 Ivan Cheng, CC’14 Abena Gyebi, GS’12 Kelila Kahane, BC’14 Aliza Narin, BC’15 Copy Editors Emma Goss, BC’15 Sasha (Alexandra) Henriques, BC’15 Dana Melanz, GS’14 Nora Rose Mueller, BC’15 Hilary Price, GS’15 Bianca Sanon, CC’14 Tiana Takenaga, CC’14 Hannah C. Tippett, BC’14 Louisa Ying, CC’14
ART & DESIGN
Editors Alejandra Arrue, BC’14 Jade Bonacolta, BC’15 Amanda Jones, CC‘14 Hannah Keiler, CC’14 Nora Mueller, BC’15 Assistants Amy Fu, CC’15 Mora Grehl, BC’15 Yael Wiesenfeld, CC’14
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Writers Alina Abazova, BC’13 Emma Goss, BC’15 Daniel Gutsche, CC’12 Antonia Kuhr, CC’13 Jennifer Mayrock, BC’15
Editors Olivia Aylmer, BC’15 Lydia Ding, CC’13 Angel Jiang, CC’15 Esther Jung, BC’15 Maitland Quitmeyer, BC’14
PUBLIC RELATIONS & PUBLISHING
Assistants Keenan Burton-Sessoms, CC’14 Jessica Chen, SEAS’14 April Chye, CC’14 Ariel Fan, BC’14 Amanda Ju, BC’15 Ashley Kim, BC’15 Jun Jun Lau, CC’14 Fay Surya, BC’15 Jennifer Xiong, SEAS’15
from the Editor
ecently, walking with a classmate after class the conversation turned to our extracurriculars. I mentioned this publication, to which he sarcastically replied, “You mean Columbia has a fashion scene?” Good one. The fact is, though it is small, there is a burgeoning fashion community on campus. Fashion and Columbia are not mutually exclusive, and nothing proved this to me more than Hoot’s general interest meeting early in the semester, which attracted enough eager students to fill up a medium-sized lecture classroom to the brim. At that moment, in a full room of people with style on the mind, I realized how far Hoot has come in our short time as a college magazine. We started out as a group of six on the editorial team of the nowdefunct fashion club CU Couture who later set off on our own to form Hoot. This is my first letter to readers as editor in chief, and my fourth issue overall. In my first semester I’ve learned so much and have been honored to work with driven and talented students who have, in turn, inspired me. It’s been a privilege and a pleasure to meet with countless interested in the magazine, from freshmen who wrote about Hoot in their college applications to those already active in the fashion industry who want to be a part of something similar on campus (either way, we end up gabbing about fashion blogs). In honor of that interest, our fourth issue is all about us – the students of CC, BC, SEAS, and GS. Fashion might not seem the most accessible subject for everyone, but we have tried our best to at least make it fun for you to read. In that vein, I’m proud to introduce our cover girl, Kelsey Chow, who is a student at Columbia College – the first current student we’ve ever featured on our cover. As an actress on Disney’s Pair of Kings who’s also working on an upcoming movie, Kelsey represents a well-rounded lifestyle that so many of us Columbians embody. We’re athletes, journalists, actors, volunteers, activists, inventors – but we’re all students. We have that in common. Well, that and the fact that we’re all so busy, all the time. Let’s call it multi-tasker syndrome.
Our models laugh it off while shooting spreads for Hoot. From top to bottom: Andy Patrick, Alexandra Memmi and Shelly Xu.
This issue represents the hard work of so many of those multi-taskers dedicated to showing you what Hoot is all about – our voice on fashion and culture. We show you what trends we are fans of and where to shop, but also explore pertinent questions, like the label obsession pandemic, if you will. And for the style-philes among you, we have an exclusive article from Cathy Horyn, The New York Times fashion critic and alum of Barnard College. She reveals how she got her start (just a few blocks from campus) and gives a few pointed tips on getting your foot in the door, pointily heeled or not. This issue would not be possible without a sponsorship from the Gatsby Charitable Foundation, our advertisers, and generous donations from private parties. We’re so grateful for your help.
Editor in Chief HOOT www.hootmag.org
1. I love a pop of red-orange Poppy King for J.Crew lipstick to brighten up a winter white day, and rely on Burt’s Bees Almond Milk Hand Creme to keep my hands moisturized when there’s a chill in the air. 2. Updating my blog, livgracefully, always takes my mind off of required reading. 3. My family counts on me to perfect the playlist for our holiday gatherings. 4. Topping my wish list is a Uniqlo premium down ultra light parka to throw on for traipsing through the city on a snow day.
1. I swear by St. Ives’ Soothing Oatmeal and Shea Butter Lotion 2. As a former dance major, I LOVE ballet and always make time for classes. It keeps me focused and gives me a much needed stress release. Plus, it’s just fun. 3. I was a personal chef for 3 years, so when my whole family gets together for Christmas, they make me cook the whole thing! 4. About a year ago I fell in love with the Nikon D3100. Sigh. One day...
Select Contributor Biographies
1. What is your winter grooming/beauty essential? 2. How do you unwind during the semester? 3. How do you contribute to holiday meals? 4. What is on your holiday wish list?
1. Tinted Sheseido SPF 30 moisturizer. You still need UV protection in the winter! It’s also a lighter alternative to powder and foundation in addition to being moisturizing enough for winter. 2. Leave campus and go somewhere where I can get lost (which isn’t difficult). 3. By enjoying the food. I can’t cook myself, so I am fairly generous with food related compliments. 4. I usually can’t wait until Christmas to go winter clothing/accessories shopping, but wool, cashmere and fur will still be on my holiday wish list. That and chocolate covered strawberries.
1. I love wild fig body butter by Henri Bendel. It is super moisturizing and smells delicious. Plus it comes in a cute little bottle as typical of most things from Bendel’s--- I’ve always been a sucker for Bendel’s packaging. 2. I go on sporadic outdoor runs. The running path along the Hudson is particularly beautiful. I’d recommend it! 3. Hot apple cider. 4. A trip with my family somewhere warm and not too crowded. And the talking iPhone.
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Hot @ Hoot
our directors share their must-haves for the winter season Clinique Moisture Surge Face Spray Thirsty Skin Relief, $20 at Clinique.
edited by vivian luo
+J Stretch Cashmere V Neck Cardigan, $170 at UNIQLO.
In the winter, this spray goes everywhere with me in my backpack. It moisturizes and helps me stay awake during long nights at Butler.
I love this black cashmere cardigan from +J at UNIQLO – it can be worn casually or be dressed up. And it is +J’s final collection, so so make the most of it!
- Jina Lim, Beauty + Health Director
- Martin Hamery, Menswear Director
Burgundy Zig Zag Scarf, $32 at Topshop.
Kiehl’s Crème de Corps Body Moisturizer, $29 at Kiehl’s.
This season, I’m looking to buy a thick circle scarf. It makes a statement while your outfit is under wraps.
A must have for the season is Kiehl’s Creme de Corps - a classic that is great at healing the effects of the season’s weather.
- Nicole Estevez, Arts + Entertainment Director
- Julián Mancías, Fashion Features Director
Wafer Notebooks, $60 each at Smythson. With their pop colors and cute witty phrases, Smythson’s wafer notebooks make for a super chic place to jot down inspiration or secrets. - Michele LevbargKlein, Creative Director
Aldo Crisson Ankle Boots, $130 at Aldo. Inspired by the coveted Acne Pistol boots, Aldo’s version has the same tough-luxe style that goes with absolutely everything. - Sharon Wu, Design Director HOOT www.hootmag.org
DIH: Did it Herself first-year student’s jewelry line gives back to the big island
by olivia aylmer
or Barnard first-year Jordan Sholem, philanthropy started with a few beads and a desire to give back to the Hawaiian community she spent her childhood summers exploring. This California girl gained an appreciation for the Big Island’s natural elements, unique culture, and warm “Ohana,” (beloved neighbors). Little did she know that stringing seashells and beads together one summer would develop into something amazing.
with and the people I saw suffer from the economic downturn,” Sholem says.
tal, and profits from sales in Los Angeles go to Phase One cancer research.
Sholem handcrafts the bracelets using beads of ebony wood, coconut wood, freshwater pearls, coral, turquoise and diamond charms. These unique touches have attracted celebrity customers such as Megan Fox and Hilary Swank.
Sholem has not ruled out the possibility of bringing the bracelets to the Columbia community. “You know, my goal is to expand it as a business, and I’m trying to figure out what that involves. Since I’ve been in school, I’ve kind of put the process on hold, but I’m looking forward as I have more time and I figure out my adjustment process,” Sholem says.
“It was easier than I had anticipated to turn something that was just a simple little hobby and something fun into something that could be so beneficial for both myself and other people.”
Jewels by Jordan grew out of an effort to help the hardhit island during the widespread financial recession. She started off with a small batch of beaded bracelets, but soon invested some of her own savings to accommodate the growing demand. Her first dozen, presented to the owners of a boutique and spa at a resort in Kailua-Kona, sold out in a matter of days. “To be honest, it kind of just started as a hobby. But it wasn’t until it developed into a business that I realized that it could be something that I could utilize to benefit the community I grew up
“They’re pretty bohemian and kind of zen; while they are genuine diamonds, they’re also kind of funky and edgy,” Sholem says. Sholem donates a percentage of her profits to the Hualalai ‘Ohana Foundation, which helps send Hawaiian students to college and graduate school and provides healthcare to those in need. Donations also support the North Hawaii Community Hospi-
In retrospect, Sholem has realized it is possible for people to do what they love and create a profitable business venture at the same time. “It was easier than I had anticipated to turn something that was just a simple little hobby and something fun into something that could be so beneficial for both myself and other people.”
Neighborhood Profile: NoLIta a hidden gem in downtown new york
Jay Kos. All photos by Abena Gyebi.
by abena gyebi
ander around downtown Manhattan long enough and you are bound to run into a quiet nook of a neighborhood that is home to dozens of fashion designers and fine craftsmen. NoLIta—North of Little Italy—is a tiny cache that offers an interesting contrast to Scotch and Soda The its more bustling surroundings. It shares SoHo’s coveted real estate, Chinatown’s indie shops, LES’ speakeasy allure, and Little Italy’s culinary renown without their less desirable attributes. It is, in short, the epitome of downtown chic. Emerging as a gentrified gem from a once grungy no-man’sland, NoLIta’s streets have been lined with cafés, shops and yachtowning inhabitants since the late 1990s. Some celebrity residents have included Martin Scorsese during his boyhood, su- The Clothing Warehouse permodel Iman and her rocker husband David Bowie, and Tory Burch, whose fashion career was launched there. Nevertheless, NoLIta has had its share of ups and downs over the
years. The currently unstable economy is reflected in the “For Rent” signs visible on every block. Shopkeepers seem to agree on ways to curb costs by downsizing square footage and offering unique pieces at “the-rent-is-toodamn-high” prices. Boutiques tend to carry products with tremendous sartorial, aesthetic and trendsetting value. Because they carry minimally produced or one-ofa-kind pieces, these boutiques are the perfect destination for fashionistas who do not want to land in “Who Wore It Better?” tabloid polls. These unique wares include Jay Kos, eccentric staples for men with tailored tastes and bulging wallets, and Velita, the source for edgy, feminine separates that never go out of style. Clientele who prefer more casual attire can shop Amsterdam Couture by Scotch and Soda or vintage classic tees at The Clothing Warehouse.
like Lady Gaga and Sarah Jessica Parker. Beyond apparel, NoLIta offers culinary, cultural and architectural appeal matching that of its downtown neighbors. It is home to the Feast of San Gennaro on Mulberry Street, an annual festival that takes Italian street fare to a new level. Locals also enjoy Ceci Cela patisserie for its award-winning croissants, while Gitane’s Moroccaninfluenced cuisine keeps the sidewalk café packed. Lombardi’s, America’s first pizzeria, always has a line of patrons wrapped around the corner. Peacefully settled in the center of it all are the open doors of the recently renovated Old St. Patrick’s Cathedral. The landmark Puck Building ballroom marks the northwest border of NoLIta on Houston and Lafayette Streets, while the Storefront for Art and Architecture marks its southernmost border on Kenmare Street. Whether you are looking to buy vintage wares or people-watch at a café, trek downtown to NoLIta and you will not be left wanting. Dinosaur Designs
Some chain stores do exist, but their pieces are far from mainstream. Dinosaur Designs, an Aussie innovator, carries jewelry and housewares that resemble polished props from “The Flintstones,” while Resurrection Vintage holds a treasure trove of garments previously owned by stars
An Industry of Labels are columbia students label obsessed? by kelila kahane
abels. We all have them. We all wear them. Some of us wear them inside our shirts, while others wear them outside. Some of us know the difference between Burberry and Mulberry, while others might ask how these two relate to Blackberry. But ultimately, no matter how seasoned we are in the art of recognizing the label, we are all at least passive members of a consumerist culture; our minds are etched with the idea that somehow
gravitate towards these three specific brands. The most obvious answer is for their supposed quality. Columbia student Lisa Cant is no stranger to brands and labels. Cant is a runway model, as well as the former face of Juicy Couture, Van Cleef and Arpels, and Dolce & Gabbana. Cant notes, “I do think for a lot of people wearing brands is a decision made based on quality.” In part, Cant is right. There is a reality to the fact that a bag made by Longchamp
who created it. As CC sustainable development major Peryhan MacDonald notes, “Wearing items that are clearly of a high end label is an easy way of announcing that you have the money to spend on such items …People think that wearing a certain label inherently implies that you are fashionable or stylish.” However, wearing branded clothing also communicates something that
More than shopping for brands based on image, Columbia students shop for brands based on values and ideals. labels matter. But how much do they matter? Do labels simply communicate the ability to spend? Or does wearing a label communicate something else— something more akin to image and identity? At Columbia University, Longchamp, Moncler and Hunter are probably the most ubiquitous labels. With so many nylon bags, puffer jackets, and versions of the Wellington boot to choose from, one might ask why we all
tends to last longer than its short-lived H&M lookalike. But we do not just dress for durability. Clothing is a social communicator, and wearing recognizable labels carries a social cachet. Whether it be Chanel’s interlocking C’s, Tory Burch’s hardware cross, Pucci’s signature print, or the red soles on a pair of Christian Louboutins, more and more designers are putting their labels on the outside of clothing, making sure people know
transcends class and status. Brands carry an image created through the fabrics used, the patterns chosen, or even the scenery displayed in their glossy ads. Designers seduce consumers by advertising that brands are not just what we wear but who we are. By wearing a particular brand, the wearer communicates to others, consciously or not, that he or she identifies with the image and values of the brand. Take, for example, Chanel and Versace. While both hold esteemed positions on Bergdorf
Photo by Kelila Kahane
Goodman’s fourth floor, they occupy very different positions in the realm of branding. Coco Chanel, Chanel’s founder, said that, “Fashion is architecture: It is a matter of balanced proportions.” On the other hand, Versace’s chief designer, Donatella Versace, has said, “I don’t like balance. Balance is not a word you can use in Versace fashion.” These designers use their clothing as a means of communicating images. While Chanel communicates the image of simple, clean-lined elegance, Versace embodies oozing decadence and Italian lavishness. As the face of many brands, Cant acknowledges the many images a brand name can try to convey. By way of example, she called Juicy a brand that communicates “an image of youth, fun and frivolity.” More than shopping for brands based on image, Columbia students shop for brands based on values and ideals. MacDonald offers, “If I hear that a company uses child labor, or has donated significant amounts of money to political candidates or causes that I morally disagree with, I will try to avoid buying their products.” The inverse is true as well. There are certain brands that have positive values attached to them, and therefore they attract a lot of socially-minded students. Take, for example, the iconic canvas shoes, TOMS. TOMS, a canvas shoe company founded in 2006, sells its $50 iconic canvas sneakers with a promise: For every pair of TOMS shoes sold,
TOMS donates one pair to African children in need. In this regard, TOMS wearers are shopping for image as well as for values. While TOMS shoes are not expensive designer shoes, they certainly have a certain connotation. As Cant put it, wearing TOMS says, “I am concerned with the world.” In this case, perhaps the sea of TOMS sneakers pitter-pattering to class say “Columbia students care about the world, or at least want people to think they do.”
social class statements and image. The answer to this question is not necessarily different for each person, but rather a combination of factors. Some of us wear TOMS shoes for their quality. But the rest of us wear them for the statement that we are cool enough to know what they are, wealthy enough to shop at the stores that sell them, and humanitarian enough to choose TOMS. But, hey, what is wrong with making a statement?
The endless parade of Longchamps, Montclers, Hunters and TOMS on College Walk says “We at Columbia wear brand names.” Why we wear brand names is a question that touches on various aspects of quality, style, HOOT www.hootmag.org
Photo courtesy of Style.com
More is More minimalism’s departure and the reign of maximalism
“I wish I was a mermaid,”says Tina. Dress, Versace; shoes, Dior; hair, Big Ass Wigs, golves, Yves St Laurent; hadband, the late, great, Alexander Mcqueen; necklace, Vera wag. OPPOSIITE PAGE: shirt, Burberry; shorts, Chloé; bralette, Sexy Little Things; bracelettes, models own.
by aliza narin
e have entered a new era. Say goodbye to the mantra “less is more” and hello to a new one: “more is more.” Phrases such as “the bigger the better” and “the more the merrier” are taken more literally today than ever before. We add rather than subtract, and in doing so, visual simplicity has become a thing of the past. Many industries have adopted this baroque ideology to their genres. In fashion, music and film, superfluous details are utilized, and crazy, unheard of ideas are now the norm. Long gone is the time when fashionistas lived by Coco Chanel’s words, “When accessorizing, always take off the last thing you put on.” It is now more popular than ever to load up on jewels, wear as many layers as humanly possible, and mix a million prints and textures. The fashion in-
dustry has taken note of this shift, and many members of the field are pulling out all the stops. For Alexander McQueen’s Spring 2012 collection, Sarah Burton presented dresses adorned with large ruffles and feathers, metallic hues, and many strategically-placed cutouts. Models walked down the runway wearing intricate masks and shoes that matched their ensembles to a tee. The music industry has also evolved due to this “more is more” ideal. A simple acoustic rendition no longer constitutes a song, music videos need more than just dancers, and the Grammy’s is not the place to wear simple attire. Lady Gaga’s video, “Born This Way,”,introduces psychedelic imagery, confusing graphics, and a crazy vision in which Gaga depicts many religious and secular figures. And what did she wear to the 2011 VMAs? She
arrived dressed head to toe in men’s attire, and claimed to be her alternate persona, Jo Calderone. Hollywood has a similar story. Great films used to present stories through simplistic acting. Movies have morphed into vividly detailed and enticing works of art. A climactic work that epitomizes this change is “Avatar.” The film presents a marvelous extraterrestrial story in 3-D with colorful scenes and dramatic graphics. Its intense focus on detail and ornamentation captivated audiences all over the world. The fashion, music and film industries are among the many that have conformed to the new trend of extravagance. Detailed, layered, psychedelic, 3-D and over-the-top is in style. Perhaps this is because we are living in a time when everything is feasible and accessible, and if we have it, why not use it? Or, maybe we go to extremes simply because it is fun. After all, more is more, right?
Photo courtesy of Digital Journal
Menswear: Where to Shop simplistic styles for pocket-saving prices by andrew gonzalez
For your basic shirts, sweaters and coats, Uniqlo is the place to go. It offers the staples for any man’s wardrobe, from basic oxford shirts and cashmere sweaters to corduroy button-downs. Their cashmere sweaters come in a variety of colors ranging from blue and yellow to seafoam and teal. Typically more expensive at other stores, these sweaters are more reasonably priced at Uniqlo. With Heat Tech technology, you can also find long sleeve tees that generate heat and keep you warm during the fall and winter seasons. Uniqlo’s clothing provides the basics that help to build any wardrobe. Uniqlo has recently expanded throughout Manhattan and now has three locations: SoHo, on 34th Street and 6th Avenue, and their new flagship store on 53rd Street and 5th Avenue. Head on over for quality clothing at prices that will not make you sweat.
The wide variety of scarves at Urban Outfitters offer trendy yet versatile options for shoppers. In an assortment of colors and patterns ranging from Navajo to stripes, scarves at Urban allow for personal expression while easing the pains that come with the cool breezes of fall and harsh winds of winter. With its multi-hued print, the Urban Chevron Scarf with a white, black, red and brown Navajo pattern works perfectly with a simple white shirt. The Double Cable Knit Scarf and Eternity Scarf are two of my favorites, especially because the acrylic textures are soft and comfortable. These are scarves that you will want to wear and will enjoy wearing.
Uniqlo Wool blended jacket, Corduroy L/S shirt, Slim fit twill jeans. Uniqlo Lambswool V neck cardigan, denim L/S shirt, no wale corduroy slim fit jeans, wool trilby.
Urban Outfitters Chevron Scarf
For jeans, you can always trust that H&M will satisfy your needs without burning a hole in your pocket. Blue jeans go nicely with a collared shirt and boots, adding that extra touch to an otherwise minimal look. The new “Sliq” and “Drain” designs, which come in black, khaki and blue, might appeal to those looking for a slimmer and tighterfitting jean. For a night on the town, walk out with a pair of slim-fitting khakis or gray slacks. Although a modern cut, these pants add a classy touch intrinsic to the perfectly polished look. I typically struggle to find a nice-fitting pair of pants that I like, but H&M has never failed to have a stylish pair that fits my body type; there is a style for almost every body type, making it a great place to shop for men’s casual, business or formal pants. HOOT www.hootmag.org
The Rise of American Fashion american designers leading the way in today’s fashion by abena gyebi
or centuries, Paris was the universally accepted epicenter of high fashion and society, and anyone who was anyone took his or her couture cues from Parisians. But all that has changed, and the reputation of American fashion houses has switched from imitative to trendsetting. From Calvin Klein’s iconic “cK” forging the monogram-branding trend to hip-hop moguls like Kanye West gracing Parisian runways, America has had a substantial impact on high fashion in the past few decades. The political, economic and social temperature of the day has heavily influenced everything about fashion from styling to marketing. It has allowed American fashion, which was once heavily dictated by Parisian maisons, to set trends in its own right. For much of its history, American fashion was considered largely imitative. The first European settlers brought British style with them when they migrated and continued to import their clothing. But later on, America began to make its own minor marks. The superior quality of Southern U.S. cotton, industrialization and the cotton gin made cotton cultivation a major contributor to the fashion industry throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. However, the U.S. had not yet built or developed a distinctly American fashion style.
Photo courtesy of Rolling Stone
As late as the 20th century, anything resembling high fashion in America fell into one of two categories: they were imported designs from Parisian couturiers, or they were
lesser-prized replicas made by local seamstresses. While couture was an expensive luxury for members of high society, the American business ideal understood it was fiscally rewarding for garment mawnufacturers to commercialize couture than to continue custom-making everything. Couture trends could then be made inclusive and provided at more reasonable prices. The rise of celebrity style and influence changed the game for American fashion. During the Great Depression, American cinema culture provided an escape from their dismal circumstances. The global appeal of “The Golden Age” of Hollywood meant that more viewers, regardless of socioeconomic class, could get a peek into the glitz and glamour that Hollywood exuded. Its film stars and starlets began to represent the ideals of beauty and fashion forwardness, and so both the local and international public started to take trendsetting cues from them. World War II brought its own significant surge to the garment industry. Mass production of uniforms for soldiers created a need for standardized sizing, a need that did not translate into the commercial industry. However, the mid-20th century saw increasingly active women who were volunteering, working, and studying at university. Easily accessible, ready-to-wear fashion became a necessity, and the garment industry happily obliged. Innovations in advertising and surges in fashion magazine subscrip-
Feature Photo courtesy of WireImage
tions also played a hand in commercializing high fashion in the 1930s and 1940s, but nothing had quite the effect of Fashion Week emerging in New York City. Before World War II, it was generally accepted that American designers and stylists depended on Parisian couture for inspiration and knowledge of trends. When the Germans occupied France in the wake of World War II, fashion professionals were no longer allowed into France and were essentially cut off from their source. In 1943, the newly instituted Fashion Week diverted attention away from the loss and brought much-needed publicity to the work of American designers. Moving into the 1980s and 1990s, fashion icons transferred from Hollywood starlets to supermodels who were glamorized in ad campaigns.
Calvin Klein, an American designer who introduced a distinctly minimalist style and launched a label and logo branding craze that would last for decades, ran one of the most famous campaigns of the time. American music icons also made significant contributions to fashion during this era, expanding the business model and catering to oft-neglected youthful and urban demographics. Partnerships between musicians and fashion labels soon transformed into a major industry niche. Since the 1980s,
a number of rappers and music artists appealed to a youthful target audience that associated coolness with labelflashing and hip-hop culture in general. The trend appeared in turn-of-thecentury collections by designers like Dolce & Gabbana and Christian Dior, who also incorporated bold logos into their ready-to-wear offerings. Ironically brought full circle, the most recent installation of American urban culture in high fashion is the debut of rapper/producer Kanye Westâ€™s new line at 2011 Fashion Week in Paris (of all places!). The collection, Dw, abandons the logo-branding trend. However, its fabric selections do not depart from the excess and showiness that American hip-hop culture embraces. From initially borrowing from other cultures to taking cues from Parisian couturiers to finally making impacts all on its own, American fashion has come a long way. As with any art form, it is impossible to tell what innovations the garment industry will come up with next. But it is safe to say American style has solidified its place in the world of fashion.
Photo courtesy of Filmofilia
Becoming a Reporter, and Musings on the Fashion Industry the new york times fashion critic gives us an exclusive look at her start in journalism and reveals what is missing in the blogosphere by cathy horyn
uring my senior year at Barnard, I worked for Diana Trilling—a job I found through the school’s placement office. Two or three times a week I would leave campus or my apartment on W. 113th Street and go to Diana’s home on Claremont Avenue, where I would help with her correspondence. She wrote her letters by hand but tendonitis had forced her to find other means, so my job was
in a small Ohio town where people generally tried to avoid and even notice conflict. Those sessions at the Trilling apartment, with Diana sitting on the edge of the long sofa eyeing me doubtfully as I scribbled down her words, were to be an important part of my Barnard experience. The day after I graduated, in 1978, my parents and I took her out for a fancy lunch at our favorite restaurant (Laurent, now
the Chicago bureau of The Associated Press. My teacher was the great editor Paul Driscoll, who tossed me my first assignment—covering crop damage among Illinois farmers. I continued to work at the A.P. until shortly before I graduated and then applied to seventy-five newspapers. In all, I received two positive replies. One was from The Virginian-Pilot in Norfolk, where in the summer of 1980 I started
Fashion writing—the world of fashion—was not something I considered at Northwestern, and it only became a thought when I answered in Editor & Publisher for a fashion-reporting job at The Detroit News. to take dictation and then return the next day with a pile of typed letters. She corresponded with everyone— Norman Mailer, Isaiah Berlin. Diana was a formidable woman—clear and precise in her thinking—and she let nothing slide. She simply gave no ground in her moral or political beliefs. At first I was a little awed by this capacity to hold strong positions, to call out betrayals; I had grown up
gone), and my father told Diana that she was really my education.
my newspaper career as a school board reporter.
I knew from age fifteen or sixteen that I wanted to be a newspaper reporter. But in the post-Watergate era many young people had the same idea, and so I thought it better (I told my father) that I go to J-school. I went to Northwestern, where I promptly got a job as a copygirl on the weekends at
Fashion writing—the world of fashion—was not something I considered at Northwestern, and it only became a thought when I answered an ad in Editor & Publisher for a fashionreporting job at The Detroit News. Yet the experience I acquired along the way was useful to me on the fashion
beat—and that is what I tell young people who ask for career advice. The direction you take obviously depends on your goals, but if you want to be a journalist, then learn and develop reporting skills. One of the things I notice about a lot of fashion blogs is that the writing is not supported by information or a depth of knowledge about the business or the design process. They lack reporting, which demands specific skills—being a good observer, developing sources, knowing what is relevant. At a time when the options in journalism seem limited to young people, it is worth making the effort to truly understand an area of interest. If you have something original to offer, you will be rewarded with readers. One suggestion I have is for someone to create a blog that covers the luxury-goods companies in Paris. I do not mean the latest products or the shows, although that may be part of the coverage. Rather, I mean the stuff that goes on behind the scenes, in the studios, the comings and goings of designers, the decisions of their bosses. Of course, you will not have access to the houses, but that is why you develop sources. It also helps to have an affinity for the subject. You would have to live in Paris, be fluent in French, and
absolutely accurate in your reporting. Such a blog or site would take time to develop, but if you can get scoops, or introduce people to key players— all while remaining undazzled by the scene—then you will have readers.
Illustration by Shelly Xu
Being a critic is a completely different thing. Today, lots of people have opinions about clothes or red-carpet events. But, again, there is an opportunity for a young person to develop his or her voice as a critic, simply because a lot of the current writing is boring, uninformed or celebratory. I would encourage students to look at the work of writers like Diana Trilling, Kennedy Frazer, Manny Farber, Joseph Roth, Susan Sontag, Ellen Willis, James Wolcott. At the moment the arena seems crowded with opinion, but you may develop a new technique or original voice. It is going to take time no matter what you do.
GUYS &GALS This winter, explore all extremes of your wardrobe, from borrowed-from-the-boys crisp button-downs to feminine body-con shapes. No matter if youâ€™re inspired by home or femme, opt for eye-catching textures like pleated leather, intricate lace and snakeskinprint separates.
styled by michele levbarg-klein photographed by damian bao fashion assistant: alexandra memmi models: fatima diallo, alexandra memmi
Both pages: Fatima: Dress, Liberty London; shoes, model’s own. Alexandra: Blouse and shorts, Zara; shoes, model’s own.
Both pages: Fatima: Lace maxi dress,Qi. Alexandra: Lace sweater, Qi; pants, Zara.
Fatima: Python printed dress, Zara; shoes, modelâ€™s own. Alexandra: Python printed blouse, Zara; fur vest and pleated leather skirt, modelâ€™s own.
Fatima: Dress, Herve Leger; shoes, model’s own. Alexandra: Lurex blazer, Missoni; skirt, Intermix; shoes, model’s own.
The m bra ode v rn wh e th Col eth e co um b er on ol we ian o p an camp athe ts fo d w us r, a r f hite or ddi unct are dow ng a iona l f w nt ne inte own. lash wear on r W o ne clas hile f colo to ve sic rh s, a blac r u r ph t a little k oto nyo gra ne ph stylis sty . er t: m lis
: ass mo amr artin i d s stu m tan el, ita m ham dio ake t, s an az e eq up helb dy umd ry uip : vi y pa ar me cto ma tric k n nt r pro ia ug iccia v a ca ide rte mill d e k by no p
Jacket, modelâ€™s own; shirt, UNIQLO; jeans, Cheap Monday; headphones, WeSC.
Vest, Adidas Porsche Design; Sweater, Lacoste L!VE; Jeans, Cheap Monday; Boots, Nike; Bag, American Apparel.
Scarf, COMME des GARÇONS; Hat, H&M.
Jacket, Zara Man; Polo, Lacoste L!VE.
Puffer Coat, GF FERRĂ‰; Shorts, Adidas; Leggings, American Apparel; Boots, Nike; Gloves, H&M.
Sweater, Aqua by Aqua; Harem Pants, American Apparel; Shoes, Nike; Backpack, Marc by Marc Jacobs; Necklace, Altuzarra.
BESTOF THEBOR OUGHS model & makeup: shelly xu stylists: jade bonacolta, vivian luo photographer: vivian luo
A day in Brooklyn calls for a nonchalant look composed of abstract layers, edgy black leather and lace-up shoes.
Tweed “Dustin” Vest with Black Leather Trimming, BB Dakota, $64.50; Navy Grey Striped Long Sleeve, BB Dakota; Two Part Lace-Up Leggings, David Lerner, $374; Skinny Black Leather Belt, Ralph Lauren, $42; Towwer Platform Peep Toe Booties, Steve Madden, $149.
Maintain the Manhattan look with flattering cape silhouettes and elegant metallic flats—feel free to mix in some vintage favorites.
Toggle A-Line Cape, Jou Jou, $89.50; Portrait Print Skirt, Vintage; Knit Long Sleeve, H&M, $24.95; KneeHigh Socks, H&M, $6.95; Silver Rose Flats, Model’s Own.
Top off a casual day in suburban Staten Island with comfy cowl neck sweaters, a little bit of fringe and personalized DIY hair accessories. Shrunken Cable Cowl Neck Fringed Poncho, Free People, $128; Knit Long Sleeve, H&M, $24.95; Faux Leather Leggings, H&M, $24.95; Biker Wedge Ankle Boots, Alice & Olivia for Payless; Head Accessory from Hooked Bracelets, Simply Vera; Gold Coin Bracelet, Vintage.
Pair uniquely detailed, textured separates with tough wedges for a Bronx look.
Faux-Fur Decorative Vest, Stylist’s Own; Knit Sweater Shorts, Sparkle & Fade, 49; Snake Print Platform Wedges, Stylist’s Own; Knit Long Sleeve, H&M, $24.95; Copper Tone Bracelet, Simply Vera; Pearl Double Ring, Forever 21.
Playful floral prints perfectly top sensible rain boots for a rainy evening in Queens.
Floral Print Corsage Shoulder Dress, Paprika, $62; Floral Fishnet Tights, Lord & Taylor, $12; Matte Rain Boot, Urban Outfitters, $42.
photographer: damian bao styled by: anna cooperberg hair and makeup: nicole rivera All clothing, shoes and handbags: Salvatore Ferragamo
KELSEYCHOW the disney starlet and columbia student, CC’14, on juggling a hollywood career and a full course load, coast to coast by anna cooperberg
hould our daughters be in New York right now?” Kelsey Chow laughs. She is imitating her father, a military general, who recommended she postpone her trip to New York due to Hurricane Irene. He was talking to his friend, father to Chow’s best friend (her freshman year roommate), and they both agreed it was best. But, undeterred, Chow jumped on the first available flight from LA and made it to our New York photoshoot two days after the storm, beaming and hardly looking like she had flown cross-country on an earlymorning flight. Kelsey Chow has a rather unique Columbia experience to offer, juggling a full-time acting career with our school’s, suffice it to say, demanding workload. So, how did the born and bred South Carolinian find herself in the ‘biz? After starting dance at an early age, Chow “loved the productions that told a story.” She elaborates on her start on stage: “I signed up for school plays, and one day at a summer camp, I was asked to audition for… a community theater production of ‘Ragtime.’ I was hooked as soon I began rehearsals!” Through theatre, she explored her love of telling stories. “It is a very unique profession that allows you to walk in the shoes of those characters, real or fictitious, historically, culturally and emotionally,” she explains.
Now she has moved beyond the summer camp stage and onto the silver screen, first appearing on “One Tree Hill” before making a jump to the Disney Channel where she acted on “The Suite Life of Zack & Cody” (the stars of which, funnily enough, now attend NYU) and the TV movie “Den Brother.” Last year, she became a main cast member on a new show, “Pair of Kings.” Of her acting experiences thus far, Chow notes that “working with so many creative and talented individuals as a team to bring that story to life is exhilarating.” In spite of a flourishing career, Chow made an unconventional choice for many in her profession: attending college. As in acting, her dedication follows her in academic pursuits. “I have always loved school. I always knew I wanted to attend college, and I wanted to be somewhere that I would be inspired by faculty and students. “ As for Columbia, she has nothing but praise: “Columbia was also the perfect place because it is a smaller community inside this large, iconic city.” The CC’14-er is visibly excited about college, recounting memories and experiences from her first year here. Even the coursework was worth it, as she mentions “U-Writing reintroduced me to anthologies. One of my favorites is ‘The Paris Review.’” Like a true Columbian, she tells me
that embarking on a “spontaneous trip with friends to the Brooklyn Bridge at midnight during a much needed break from studying for finals” is her favorite Columbia-unique experience. Sound familiar? Chow is a diligent student, even though she regularly jets from coast to coast and has had to take semesters off due to her filming schedule. It is tough, she says, and the most difficult is “scheduling fittings,
at Columbia, namely global health. “My father is a physician, his parents were physicians who worked with the World Health Organization in Benghazi, Libya in the 1960s… I knew clinical practice was not for me… [but] I was immediately drawn to the social and political aspects of medicine, and, more specifically, access to health care. I feel strongly that everyone has a right to basic health care. I’m not so naive
to make a living doing what you love is just icing on the cake.” Chow is currently on leave from Columbia, following that very passion; she will appear in the upcoming film ‘The Amazing Spider-Man’ as Sally Avril, who is, fittingly, a student at Peter Parker’s school. Not to mention that she has just signed on to star in ‘The Wine of Summer’ with Marcia Gray Hayden and Ethan Peck. She has
“Being able to work and go to school has really opened my eyes to how great it is to be able to do both. School keeps me grounded and accountable.” events and promotions for a new show in LA and in NY, [and] trying to take advantage of the unique opportunities I suddenly had presented to me in NYC while trying to make it to every class and taking advantage of such exceptional academic experiences.” But, she points out, “this was also the most rewarding part of my juggling act!” Her clear appreciation and enthusiasm for education shines when she speaks about her academic interests
to think that there is an easy solution to this issue, but I would like to be a part of the process to work toward the solution,” she says. It is a tall order for this ambitious student, but Chow has the drive to back it up. Is a career in global health in the cards, though? She clarifies: “I would like to continue acting as long as I can. It is my passion. I was always told that life could be extraordinary if you find your passion, and being able
plans to return to Columbia, though, schedule permitting. The ultimate student multi-tasker, she sums up her experience best: “Being able to work and go to school has really opened my eyes to how great it is to be able to do both. School keeps me grounded and accountable. I enjoy learning, and I think or hope it makes me a better actor.”
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We find beauty in discordant unions: the dualities of passive and aggressive, feminine and masculine, composed and uninhibited come together in a single look. photographer: alon sicherman models: sheila palmer, augusta dayton makeup: sharon shum hair: elizabeth williams styled by: jina lim Tarte Amazonian Clay 12-Hour Blush in Natural Beauty, Tarte LipSurgenceâ„˘ Natural Lip Luster in Flashy, Make Up For Ever Waterproof Eyebrow Corrector in No. 3
BareMinerals Eyecolor in Graphite, Inglot Eye Shadow in 428 and 478, Inglot Lipstick in 139
Inglot Eye Shadow in 320, 371, and 495, Inglot Lipstick in 197, Inglot AMC Face Blush in 66
Inglot AMC Face Blush in 62, Make Up For Ever Rouge Artist Intense in 36
The Benefits of Yoga head on over to a yoga class for a healthy release from stress by: jenny mayrock
ne thing us students have in common is a colossal amount of schoolwork. It can leave us run-down, sick, tired and, most importantly, stressed out. Sleep and healthy eating can relieve exhaustion and illness, but exercise is one of the most useful and healthy ways to cope with stress. If cardio machines and weight lifting are not your thing—or if you just want to try something different—yoga is one of the best stress relievers available. In Sanskrit, “yoga” means to unite the heart, body and mind, and it does just that. Benefits include released tension, both mental and physical, a strengthened core and increased flexibility. Dr. Majorie Seidenfeld, medical director of Primary Care Health Service at Barnard, agrees that stress is a main cause of many illnesses. “So much of what we see in students at the Primary Care Health Service is a result of stress, and there is a mounting body of evidence showing that yoga can be an effective antidote to the health effects of stress,” she says. “Studies have shown that yoga can help lower blood pressure, increase flexibility, and reduce muscle and joint pain. It has also been shown to improve the quality of sleep, concentration and mood. In fact, the deep abdominal breathing practiced in some forms of yoga has even been shown to improve respiratory function in asthmatics.” A recent study funded by the National Institutes of Health’s National Center for Complementary and Al-
ternative Medicine also demonstrated that yoga has positive effects on the body. In October 2011, researchers at Seattle’s Group Health Research Institute reported that the physical aspects of yoga help relieve lower back pain. And what better way to learn about the therapeutic effects of yoga than to
body and mind detox,” she says. For those who want to start practicing yoga, but do not know where to start, here are the five most common forms of yoga: Hatha Yoga: This type of yoga is good for beginners and great for relaxing. It focuses on breath work in combination with slow and gentle movements. Vinyasa Yoga: Fast-paced and including a variety of poses, this type of yoga is best for someone looking for lots of movement. Ashanga/ Power Yoga: A physically demanding type of yoga that involves constant movement, it is perfect for someone seeking a cardio and sculpting workout. Hot Yoga: The room’s temperature is typically 105 degrees with 40% humidity, so prepare to be drenched! People love it because sweating removes so many toxins from the body.
practice it ourselves! We visited Land Yoga, which is located between 115th and 116th Street on Fredrick Douglass Boulevard. Instructor Lara Land showed us the steps to a vinyasa yoga sun salutation, and also spoke about the benefits of yoga. “Because yoga involves a lot of twisting, stretching and breathing, your body releases toxins through your body and improves your digestion; some call yoga a natural
Restorative Yoga: This type of yoga is typically practiced using props, such as bolsters. It involves a handful of restorative poses, both sitting and lying down, that help connect mind with body. It is great for relaxation and for those who have trouble sleeping. The voluntary yoga classes at Dodge Fitness Center are perfect for busy students without time to commute to a yoga studio off-campus. The Art of Living club’s free weekly yoga classes are also an excellent option. With that, we wish you: namaste!
Studies have shown that yoga can help lower blood pressure, increase flexibility, and reduce muscle and joint pain. It has also been shown to improve the quality of sleep, concentration and mood. tion a t u l a S Sun
Step by Step with Lara Land of Land Yoga
by stephanie balakrishnan jina lim 1.
This dry sunscreen can be applied over your makeup to protect your skin from UV rays on your next ski or beach vacation. IQQU advanced sunscreen SPF 35: iqqubeauty. com
This limited edition eyeliner comes in six metallic shades, but our favorite by far is the rich espresso. smolderEYES limited-edition Amazonian clay waterproof eyeliner collection: tartecosmetics.com
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he Freedom System collection of eye shadows, blushes, pressed powders, lipsticks and concealers is housed in special magnetic cases which can be easily combined. INGLOT freedom system rainbow eye shadow palette: inglotusa.com
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When Cosmetics Expire: ong Their Shelf Lives
ics and How to Prol tion Dates of Cosmet
by nora mueller
ohn Keats once said beauty is forever. But makeup? Not so everlasting. We all have that one tube of lipstick or eyeshadow in a bizarre color—an impulse buy that we only used once but cannot bear to part with, hoping it will be useful again someday. These products sit in the dark, aging quietly. They may not smell or look different, but with cosmetic products, going vintage is a bad idea. Manhattan dermatologist Dr. Jody Levine explains that, “Once opened, makeup is exposed to air and bacteria, which cause ingredients to oxidize and break down. While some brands may add preservatives to extend use, the preservatives can lose their effectiveness after three months.” Some consumers are unaware of the risks of expired makeup because the subject has only recently been receiving at-
Image courtesy of 7beautytips.com
tention. Also, it is difficult to recognize when products have expired because the side effects are often attributed to environmental factors. According to Dr. Levine, common irritations like pink eye and skin breakouts may actually result from using expired makeup. Though different products expire at different rates, Dr. Levine warns, “Many natural products contain botanical ingredients (such as natural oils and extracts) that are more susceptible to bacterial and mold growth. In addition, many of the ‘natural preservatives’ are not as effective as traditional makeup preservatives.” Synthetic makeup often lasts longer than organic products. If your makeup changes color or texture, which is an indication of possible bacterial growth, it should be replaced to avoid infections. Here are Dr. Levine’s suggestions for prolonging your makeup’s shelf life: • Keep makeup in a cool, dry area—not a humid area, such as a bathroom. The heat and humidity will promote the growth of bacteria, mold and yeast. • Wash your hands and face before touching and applying makeup. This step will decrease the bacteria introduced into the product. • Change makeup sponges at least once a month, and wash makeup
brushes with a mild soap 3-4 times a month to clean away trapped bacteria and oils. • Keep makeup bottles and containers tightly sealed • Sharpen eye and lip pencils every other week to remove bacteria that may have accumulated. • Do not share your makeup with others. Here are some general guidelines for makeup expiration dates: • Liquid foundation: 3-6 months • Cream foundation: 4-6 months • Concealer: 6-8 months • Eye shadow, blush and pressed powders: 12 months • Mascara: 3 months • Lip gloss and lipstick: 1 year • Eye/lip pencils: 1 year Remember to look for the expiration date symbol in the packaging. If it says “18M,” it means that the shelf life of the product is 18 months. The expiration dates depend on the brand, so some products may expire sooner than the stated guidelines above and should be thrown away. Follow these tips to avoid using expired products and your makeup will last longer than it ever has before!
Winter Munchies a guide to resisting hibernation, surviving cold spells, and keeping warm with the best eats in the city by daniel gutsche
Curl up with Jacques Torres’ popular hot chocolate or a sinfully sweet treat in the scenic DUMBO location this winter. Image courtesy of The Brooks Group
he cold is back, and, as usual, she is long and bitter. As you prepare to divest yourself of the finer pleasures in life (i.e. happiness, recreation, sunlight) and brace for the Arctic tundra that is New York in the winter, rest assured that warmth does abound on every corner; you only need some cash and a hearty appetite. While the few months ahead will not be without streaks of agonizing gloom, fear not! ‘Tis the season for toasty comfort food in all its gormandizing glory. Note: Your tummies will not be disappointed. For the SWEET TOOTH: Jacques Torres This famed chocolatier boasts three locations in Manhattan, providing the cozy, café-style ambiance we all crave on a rainy day. Jacques Torres is renowned for his chocolate-covered confections, cornflakes, fortune cookies and peanut brittle, to name a few. A tasting from the bar menu, which offers warm beverages galore—mochas, teas, espressos and, most notably, gourmet hot chocolate—is highly recommended. Try the classic dark chocolate, as well as the “wicked” recipe featuring allspice, cinnamon, ground sweet an-
Move over, Willy Wonka! Jacques Torres has shops around the city, including Rockefeller Center. His factory (pictured here) DOES in fact exist and is in SoHo. Image courtesy of The Brooks Group
cho chili peppers, and smoked ground chipotle chili peppers. www.mrchocolate.com Locations: SoHo: 350 Hudson St. (at King St.) Subway: 1-2-3 to Houston St. Chelsea Market: 75 9th Avenue (at West 16th St.) Subway: 1 to 59th St.-Columbus Circle and transfer to the A to 14th St. Upper West Side: 285 Amsterdam Avenue (at West 73rd St.) Subway: 1 to 72nd St. For the SAVORY TOOTH: Good Enough to Eat This Upper West Side establishment is a short trek from campus, perfect for those days when you tend to limit your activity to a three-block radius. A favorite of avid brunch-goers, this kitchen is home to a range of morning classics like scrambles, omelettes and pancakes, but also offers unusual spins like pumpkin French toast (topped with a pear and cranberry compote) and bacon waffles. The dinner menu is notorious for its traditional turkey
Sunday brunch at Good Enough to Eat is well worth the wait in any weather. Photo: Daniel Gutsche, CC ‘12
dinner, which includes all the necessary sides: cornbread stuffing, gravy, cranberry relish, mashed potatoes and sautéed kale. www.goodenoughtoeat.com Location: Upper West Side: 483 Amsterdam Avenue (at West 83rd St.) Subway: 1 to 86th St. For the UMAMI TOOTH: Dumpling House If your schedule permits, make the journey for a meal at this Chinatown eatery. Its twenty-three options are as delicious as they are affordable: five chives and pork fried dumplings for $1, a sesame pancake with beef for $1.50, and the list goes on. You can even take home frozen packages—50 dumplings for $8 or 100 for $15. With its hole-inthe-wall atmosphere and proximity to SoHo, this place is ideal for a Saturday afternoon meal. Location: Chinatown: 118 Eldridge St. (at Broome St.) Subway: 1 to 59th St.-Columbus Circle and transfer to the B to Grand Street.
Some of New York’s cheapest, tastiest dumplings can be found at Chinatown’s Dumpling House. Photo: Liza Weingarten CC ‘12
A&E You forget that you’re in Queens when you look around at the futuristic architecture of the museum.
The original Bert and Ernie Muppets. Henson designed Bert and Ernie with contrasting personalities and body types in order to show that despite numerous differences, they will always be great friends.
The state-of-the-art Museum of the Moving Image was recently remodeled into a modern architectural marvel.
All images courtesy of Museum of the Moving Image.
The Muppet Master Jim Henson Exhibit at the Museum of the Moving Image by emma goss
ach of us had unique childhood experiences that shaped who we are today, but there is no denying that almost all of us share at least one childhood memory: watching “Sesame Street.” The popular television program seems simple enough—after all, it is designed for preschoolers— but few realize the complexities behind the show. “Jim Henson’s Fantastic World” at the Museum of the Moving Image showcases the pioneering creative talent and life story of everyone’s favorite puppet master. The museum exhibit Jim Henson sits among his Muppets as if posing for a family photo. celebrates Henson’s innovative work and ideas. Oscar was later changed to green It displays 120 artifacts and 15 iconic, because Henson believed that the earwhimsical puppets, and traces Henly cameras were not of a high enough son’s developmental process from quality to capture the color adequately. sketches to film. The much-loved Kermit the Frog, Bert and Ernie and Miss Henson’s creative process for proPiggy—fashionably dressed in a wedducing a Muppet involved more than ding gown—are just some of the charjust felt, scissors and glue. While he acters and prototypes on display. The relied on basic materials to create his exhibit traces the lives of these charMuppets, such as fur,fleece fabrics and acters from early doodles to the finpolyurethane foam, it is the mechanical ished Muppets. For instance, Oscar the component to Henson’s designs that Grouch was originally colored purple adds complexity to these simply-made in some of Henson’s early sketches, constructions. With Big Bird, for exand in Oscar’s first televised appearample, Henson’s design called for the ance, he was orange.
Muppeteer to stand erect inside of the puppet’s body. He would extend his right arm through the bird’s neck with his hand opening and closing the beak. The Muppeteer enclosed in Big Bird’s body then had a television monitor strapped to his chest to provide visibility. The museum also features video interviews with Henson, clips of his shows, and behindthe-scenes footage from episodes of “The Muppet Show” and “Sesame Street.” Large screens and beanbag cushions are arranged at the end of the exhibit, allowing visitors to be captivated by the Muppets one last time before exiting. The exhibit closes January 16, 2012 and is free for students with your CUID. With only one swipe of a Metrocard and a short walk from the subway station, navigating to the museum is easily done. There can be no greater way to relive the nostalgia of our “Sesame Street” days than by taking a walk down memory lane. And catching the new Jason Segel movie “The Muppets,” but that, of course, is another story. HOOT www.hootmag.org
The Artist as Jeweler artist-designed jewelry at the museum of arts and design
by antonia kuhr and jenny mayrock
he “Picasso to Koons: The Artist as Jeweler” exhibit at the Museum of Arts and Design (MAD) shows that jewelry is quite a different beast from what we normally consider art. When designing jewelry, an artist’s aesthetic has to be redirected towards making something work in concert with the body. Most of the pieces in the exhibit display sensitivity to this shift, but some artists made only superficial conversions between art and wearable art. The pieces by Roy Lichtenstein, Keith Haring and Jeff Koons, for instance, are all within these artists’ respective “safety zones.” The pop artists stayed decidedly two-dimensional, while Koons merely shrank one of his trademark statues and strung it on a chain. But jewelry design enables artists to explore new media and adapt their aesthetics to a different scale. Wool, neon, matches, nails, rope, balloons, tin cans—these materials and more were all represented and re-imagined. Salvador Dalí, for example, used relatively traditional jewelry materials like pearls and rubies to make a ring into the shape of a mouth. The idiom “pearly whites between ruby lips” is playfully given new visual form in a way that is both true to Dalí and completely wearable.
NECKLACE Alexander Calder, 1935 A change from the mobiles the artist is known for, this bib necklace by Calder is dynamic in its own way with its coiled brass wire parts. All photos courtesy of the Museum of Arts and Design, by Sherry Griffin.
In general, jewelry has a type of intimacy to it that may not be as present in what we typically categorize as “art.” The pieces on display were often given as personal presents to friends, relatives and paramours of the artist. Now that these baubles have found their way behind glass, it is easy to forget that they were not only conceived with the body in mind, but often with a specific person in mind. Interestingly enough, the exhibition lacks photographs of
NECKLACE Frank Stella, 2008 Gold painted metal, this particle-like Frank Stella piece commands attention
real people wearing these pieces. This absence is felt, especially considering that some of the artists devised jewelry clearly meant to craft or transform the wearer. Case in point: a heavy-looking necklace that resembles an oxen’s yoke by sculptor Louise Bourgeosis entitled “Collier Barre de Metal,” which translates to “metal bar necklace.”
book diagram. Anish Kapoor, whose work is also on display, is known for his room-filling sculptures. Here, it is refreshing to see his aesthetic scaled down more than a few notches. His concave mirrored rings leave museumgoers fantasizing about how stunning they must look, when they refract a moving light source.
Another variation on the theme of jewelry-as-bondage is a ring set by Damien Hirst, shaped like a miniaturized pair of handcuffs. Elsewhere, Miguel Chevalier produces vibrant video installations based on mathematical and biological concepts. A necklace he designed follows this and looks like it magically sprang, fully formed, text-
Exhibits like this one make it apparent how important the mobility and tactile dimension of jewelry are.
PENDANT Roy Lichtenstein Lichtenstein’s Pop artistry mark is seen even with this pendant made of metal and enamel from 1968.
Post-Museum Musings Aside from the exhibit, be sure to view the permanent collection. If you do not make it to “Picasso to Koons: The Artist as Jeweler,” note that quite a few of the drool-worthy pieces are part of MAD’s permanent collection. The museum is also home to artist workshops, where you can visit resident artists and view current projects, and a great gift shop, with plenty of modern design products. In addition, the museum’s only and recently-opened restaurant, Robert, is located atop the museum and offers amazing views of Columbus Circle and Central Park. The interior of the restaurant is very chic, with a menu to match, making it a great place to have dessert with friends after looking through the museum. Across from the museum is the Time Warner Center, a great spot to head to afterwards. From Whole Foods to Godiva, J. Crew to Stuart Weitzman, Bouchon Bakery to
RABBIT NECKLACE Jeff Koons, 2005-2009 The artist made this platinum necklace in a series of fifty for designer Stella McCartney
the reputable Per Se, it is worth a walkthrough. Remember that Central Park is also at your fingertips, with Wollman Rink open for the winter season. With all this (and more) around the exhibit, there is no excuse to not get out of the Morningside Heights bubble!
Picasso to Koons: The Artist as Jeweler is open until January 8, 2012.
Cost: Free with your CUID Subway: 1 Train to 59th StreetColumbus Circle http://www.madmuseum.org/ HOOT www.hootmag.org
NYC Food Trucks: Spiced Up Street will city regulations hinder their success? by alina abazova
ickshaw Dumplings, Wafels and Dinges, Korilla BBQ–these are all names of well-known food trucks regularly spotted around New York City. There is nothing novel about street vending; after all, street carts have existed for decades. What makes food trucks appealing is that they can go to customers. An employee at Rickshaw Dumplings calls this phenomenon “food that moves.” Contrary to popular belief, junk food is not the only type of food available at food trucks. Among the menu options, one can choose from smoothies, yogurt, and a variety of ethnic and healthy foods. Many food trucks emerged because of how popular they are with customers and tourists but given the nature of space in NYC and other regulations, it has become increasingly difficult to conduct business on the street. In addition to competition from other companies, food trucks also face problems with parking restrictions and, because of such strict regulations, decreasing business revenue. Food trucks fall under a unique type of entrepreneurship because they are, essentially, conducting their business on wheels. To receive revenue, they have to go where the customers are. They are usually located in the busiest parts of the city during the day, such as Midtown Manhattan and the Financial District, but if many vendors go to Midtown, for example, there will not be enough room for all of them due to limited parking. The issue, however, is parking Photos: Lucy Schaeffer
regulations. The Supreme Court recently interpreted street food as “merchandise,” meaning that it is illegal to sell food from any metered parking spot in NYC. This law is especially regulated in Midtown. Because of this law, many food trucks are suffering from a severe loss of revenue, as a large percentage of profits come from vending in Midtown. These actions do not affect all food trucks equally, though. Edward Song, one of the co-founders of Korilla BBQ says that, on average, their truck gets one parking ticket a week. He claims this does not have a significant impact on their business because this ticket counts as “street rent.” In addition, most food trucks do not actually mind paying for tickets, provided that they can sell their food elsewhere and still generate revenue. But parking is not the only issue that food trucks face. Starting a food truck business is a big challenge in itself. Obtaining a permit from the Department of Health and Mental Hygiene requires a long application, and it can take up to several years to finally receive one. The obstacle is not the sanitation requirements so much as the limited amount of issued permits by the city, usually about 3,000 a year. Food trucks can also receive a permit from a lottery, but those are even more limited. To avoid this tedious process, some food trucks turn to the black market, but that means risking getting caught. If this risk is added to the list of challenges that they already have to
A&E face, food trucks are obviously not easy businesses to run. While food trucks are very popular among NYC customers, they are not always favored by traditional “brick and mortar” businesses and smaller food carts. If a food truck is located in one area all day, surrounding food businesses can potentially lose a large amount of revenue by receiving fewer customers. Ideally, food trucks and other food establishments would come to agreement as to how many times a week a food truck can be present on a specific street or in a neighborhood. However, it is difficult to enforce a rule or law that will satisfy street vendors, traditional restaurant owners, customers and residents. Completely banning food trucks from Midtown or other areas will cause large reductions in revenue for food trucks. Still, food trucks have an advantage: they can move around to other boroughs like Queens or Staten Island.
Food trucks in NYC have certainly created a revolution in people’s perception of street food and how a business is connected with its customers. Before, people pictured street food as hot dogs and pretzels. Nowadays, food trucks receive national and inter-
nity, individuals work together to fight against severe laws and facilitate street vending. One such association, the New York City Food Truck Association (NYCFTA), works to “promote community-oriented behavior,” and negotiates for fairer laws with city administrations. In addition, many food trucks use social media to connect with customers about menu updates and locations. For example, Korilla BBQ tweets not only about their location, but also if they are kicked off a street or if their truck needs repairs. There is no single way to run a food truck business; it changes according to the city.
Food trucks make the gastronomical experience in New York even more unique.
Customers in front of Rickshaw Dumplings. You can choose from dishes like Chicken and Thai basil, wild American shrimp, and warm chocolate Shanghai soup dumplings. Photo: Evan Sung
national recognition with food awards such as “Top Ten Best Street Foods in the World” (Travel and Leisure) and the “Nine Most Eye-Catching Trucks in America” (Elle Décor) awards. Acceptance has also been seen in the media with the Food Network hit “The Great Food Truck Race.” Inside the food truck commu-
Food trucks make the gastronomical experience in NYC even more unique. How many other cities can claim a truck that sells waffles and green smoothies? One can hope that the city and trucks will find a compromise that promotes creative enterprise without shutting down food trucks or taking customers away.
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edited by anna cooperberg
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The Fall/Winter 2011 issue of Columbia University and Barnard College's fashion and lifestyle magazine, Hoot (hootmag.org), covered by Kelse...