CARING FOR YOUR ARENA- Hoofbeats

Photo courtesy Greystone.

CARING FOR YOUR ARENA

by Kaye Meynell

Constructing an arena is a costly endeavour and for those lucky enough to have one of their own, regular maintenance is important to ensure the lifetime of the surface is maximised.

The benefits of properly looking after an arena don’t end there either, with a welllooked after manège also helping to reduce injury risk in the horses worked on it.

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Manège is the French term for an arena a rectangular area for horse training and dressage.

T

he level of care afforded to arenas can differ between owners, with factors such as time and equipment being two of the main variables that impact on the standard of upkeep.

ARENA SURFACES AND INJURY RISK Studies have shown that numerous characteristics of arena surfaces influence the risk of injury in horses see Hoofbeats June July 2017 for a guide to the types of surface and the injury risks associated with each. Furthermore, the chance of injury can actually be reduced if owners ensure proper ongoing maintenance of the footing in their arena. Recently, scientists have focussed on looking more closely at particular management techniques - such as watering, harrowing and rolling - and how they can affect surface behaviour and, subsequently, a horse’s movement.

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Caring for your arena continued...

It is known that both the amount of loading placed on horses’ limbs during exercise, and how quickly moving limbs are brought to a stop upon impact with the ground (vertical deceleration), affects the risk of injury. The higher the load and the higher the rate of deceleration, the higher the risk of injury to joints.

The chance of injury can actually be reduced if owners ensure proper ongoing maintenance of their arena.

IDENTIFYING A GOOD SURFACE

In one study, for manèges comprised of a waxed-sand and fibre mix, maximum vertical deceleration and maximum vertical load significantly decreased after harrowing. For arenas made with a sand and rubber mix, however (a popular choice of surface), there were no differences in either of these after harrowing compared to before, suggesting that different maintenance techniques may be more suitable for different surface types and that there is no one-size-fits-all.

A similar study looking at horses landing after a jump on a sand and fibre mix surface also found that maximal vertical deceleration and the energy of vibrations during the impact phase of a limb were strongly affected by the preparation - both decreased with harrowing and increased with rolling of the arena surface. The authors concluded that a rolled surface probably brings about a quicker vertical loading of the limb during stance therefore harrowing should be recommended for surfaces that are prone to compaction.

WHAT SHOULD A GOOD SURFACE PROVIDE?

Left: a hard surface with high shear resistance does not allow the toe to dig in during push-off. Centre: a surface with moderate impact and shear resistance allows the toe to dig but then offers resistance as the hoof pushes off. Right: a soft surface with low shear resistance gives way and does not offer sufficient resistance as the hoof pushes off.

A good surface should reduce concussion when the legs make contact with the ground, provide enough traction (grip) for the horse to move efficiently in all gaits and have low levels of dust so as not to irritate the respiratory system of horse and rider. Even the highest quality surface can become sub-optimal however, if it is not looked after properly, with poor care resulting in problems such as insufficient drainage and pooling of water or soggy footing, patchiness in surface depth and unevenness.

Maintenance requirements depend on the size of the arena (smaller = more foot traffic per given area) the materials used, the number of horses ridden on it each day and the local weather/

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environment. Arenas most usually consist of a 4-6 inch base of sand, dirt or stone dust with another product (or several) laid over the top to a depth of 3-4 inches; this footing can be a waxcoated product, washed sand (e.g. silica sand), PVC, rubber or woodchips. In general, the more horses that are ridden on the surface each day the more frequent the maintenance needed to ensure it remains uniform.

SURFACE MAINTENANCE Harrowing/Dragging

With continued use, the arena footing becomes uneven due to areas frequently travelled over by the horse versus those that see less foot traffic. This leads to a surface that is looser in some places and more compacted in others. This is undesirable for reasons related to the loading of joints in the legs (as discussed above) and also because the horse cannot expect a consistent feel beneath its feet across the whole school. It can also affect water drainage (impeded in areas where the footing has built up) and can leave the base susceptible to damage (in areas where the footing is thin).

In order to remedy this, owners can harrow or ‘drag’ the manège to redistribute the footing evenly; this can be done for both sand and mixed-media footing. If this is not initiated until after wear patterns have begun to become apparent (e.g. thinner footing where circles are often performed or around the edges of the school on the track) then the task becomes harder. It is always preferable to set up a harrowing schedule from the time at which the surface is first laid down. Once per week is the generally

Maintenance requirements depend on the size of the arena, number of horses ridden on it, surface and weather. accepted frequency for harrowing of arenas ridden a handful of times a week, with daily harrowing for those subjected to heavier workloads – though personal preference of the owner plays a big role. Sometimes, more than once per day is required for commercial arenas.

When harrowing, be sure to remove all jumps and other obstacles to allow all areas of the surface to be groomed/conditioned. Many people like to also keep a rake handy for levelling small areas as Continued

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Caring for your arena cont...

While a commercial arena rake is more efficent, there are many D.I.Y. options and when needed throughout the day, for example at jump take off/landing points.

There is nothing wrong with (a lot of!) hard work and elbow grease and dragging an arena by hand if specialised equipment is not feasible, however most people prefer to use a drag or harrow manufactured specifically for this purpose – they are quicker and more effective at conditioning the surface. For schools with larger areas that have been hollowed out during riding, a quick hand raking prior to using the harrow/drag is sometimes advisable.

Harrows come in many variations but basically consist of a set of flexible blunt metal teeth - known as ‘tines’ – that dig down into the footing to loosen, aerate and redistribute it.

Classic harrows consist of a section of heavy-duty movable teeth that look like a section of chain-link fencing; they are easy to handle, maintain and can be stored hung up on the shed wall.

Others have a solid frame with v-shaped tines that can be reversed once they become blunt, meaning they do not need to be replaced as often. These harrows require no special care, though preferably they should be stored somewhere sheltered from the rain to prolong working life. Some owners like to turn them over – this changes the angle of the tines – to get a more pronounced angle that is useful for digging into very compacted, hard areas of footing.

Many of the newer models of harrows have fully adjustable tines, which is a big advantage if the footing depth is different across the arena or there are areas that are significantly compacted that require a more aggressive action. The main consideration with harrows is to ensure that the tines are not so long that they rip into the base material, as this is time consuming and expensive to fix (and repair will be necessary given the base is very hard and a hazard for delicate equine legs and hooves).

Some of the heavier types of harrows require a three- point tractor hitch function to raise and lower the tines to accommodate different ‘dig’ depths and to lift the harrow off the ground as it is moved between the yard and arena. Some people who have arenas with a fibre footing prefer a harrow that has paddles instead of the usual tines, believing the action of the paddles helps integrate the fibre into the sand better. Some of the newer Continued

April/May 2019 - Page 26

The size of the arena will determine which type of watering system will be most effective,

models of harrows can also level the arena at the same time they consist of several different sections, placed one behind the other. Levelling is important as built-up areas of footing, for example at the kickboards or in areas adjacent to the perimeter fence or wall, need to be pulled back in towards the track where it has been pushed away.

Homemade drags can be used but are unlikely to be as efficient; if money is tight, however, they are a good compromise.

Homemade variations on the traditional harrow include a section of chain link, a mattress stripped down to the springs or an old farm gate or wooden pallet, weighted down with concrete blocks or a heavy rock or two. Then a tow chain is attached to secure to the tractor or quad bike.

Harrow size depends on the size of the arena and the vehicle pulling it, however those who are perfectionists go a step further and purchase a harrow slightly wider than the vehicle pulling it so it erases the tyre tracks in the arena footing!

Manure should be collected frequently, and always before harrowing, since it breaks down quickly and becomes mixed in with the footing adding to dust levels. It can also compromise some waxed surfaces.

The depth of the surface should be regularly checked (a simple measuring stick is all that is needed) to ensure it is even across all areas and to identify where tracks may be beginning to form.

To prevent the footing from escaping from the arena – either being kicked out around the perimeter or blown away if made entirely of sand - chicken wire, netting or mesh can be placed between the ground and the first fence rail. This not only keeps the surface in, but rabbits and foxes etc. out! Large tree trunks

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laid on their sides and lining the edges of the arena are another option, as is an ‘edging’ made of boards/planks of wood, however these should be discussed with the company constructing the arena to ensure they don’t impede drainage.

Watering

The water content of arena footing differs depending on the material, but it is important to preserve moisture in this layer so as to keep dust to a minimum and ensure the surface cushion is maintained. Moisture content is also affected by the local climate with sun, wind and humidity all affecting how quickly a surface dries out, so requirements for watering can differ across the seasons even for the same footing. The goal is to moisten all of the surface to the same degree, i.e. the moisture content should be consistent throughout the arena.

Watering an arena can be achieved in many ways, the simplest being to use a garden hose with a sprinkler attachment. Other options include a sprinkler that attaches to and is pulled along by a tractor or quad bike or, in an ideal world, installation of an automated, permanent system on the posts of the arena fencing, or on the roof if there is one. These are of course much pricier, but more efficient and less labour intensive. The size of the arena, specifically its width, will largely determine which type of system will be most effective, and there is a margin for error with all – though perhaps a larger risk with hand-held systems directly controlled by a human! The goal is to sufficiently wet the surface without flooding it – something easily done if a garden hose and sprinkler is left in one place for too long before the owner

Poor drainage can be helped by harrowing before rain. Wet, ‘soupy’ arenas should not be used until dry.

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COMMERCIAL ARENA RAKE DIRECTION OF TRAVEL Adjust

Height adjustment Applying Firmness

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DRAG HARROWS Decompact, clear hoof and tyre prints

remembers to move it along. As with checking footing depth, using a moisture meter weekly to ensure the surface maintains the desired moisture content is advisable.

Note that, after heavy rain, when the arena is ‘soupy’, horses should not be ridden in an outdoor arena until the water has had sufficient time to drain away. Aside from potentially being more slippery and increasing the chance of injury from a hoof slipping or landing awkwardly, the weight of a horse on mushy (read: compromised) footing can cause damage down in the base - very costly to repair! Decreasing drainage time can be facilitated by harrowing the arena prior to a downfall if there is the opportunity to do so… remember though not to ride on the surface afterwards as this can cause dips and hollows, which will affect where water sits, once more increasing the overall drying-out time.

In summary

Any arena, no matter what the footing type, will require some form of maintenance schedule in order for it to function properly and have a decent lifespan (at least 5-10 years). Owners need to be proactive in seeking professional advice on how to look after their particular surface and consult with the manufacturer to determine their recommended guidelines. Removal of any manure and leaves/weeds is important as, especially with arenas made from woodchip or other biodegradable materials, organic matter that has broken down and become incorporated into the footing can increase the risk of slipping.

Horse arenas are a significant investment and to ensure they function to the highest standard it is crucial that they are looked after properly. With disciplined poo picking, harrowing and watering, and surface top-ups where necessary, they should provide many years of use.

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22/10/2018 PM29 April/May 2019 -7:11 Page

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