Sedona - Oak Creek Country

HIGHu.JAVS MAY FORTY

1959 CENTS

IN THIS ISSUE:

Sedona-Oak Creek Country

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HI GH UJ A.VS MAY 1959

VOL. XXXV NO. 5 R AYMON D CARLSON, Edi tor

G E ORGE M . A VEY, A rt Editor J A MES E . STEVENS, Business M anager

LEGEND

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B ELL F OR S EDO'J"A

SEDONA SCHNEBLY I.EFT HER MA RK AMONG THE R ED RocKs. TH EY S T ILL

T1-11sAWAY AND

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TH ATAWAY 1:-s: T H E R E D R o cK CouNTRY

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MovIF. MAKERS FIND PERFECT SCENERY FOR W ESTERN MOVICS. GRAND T OU R O F T HE R E D R OCK COU N TRY

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LEAVE Tl-I E MAIN ROADS AND YOU FIND HIDDEN PI.ACES OF CHARM. SEDON A S UJ\l i' vl E R ART C ENTER

A 1n STUDENTS FIND INSPIRATION I N TI-IE LAND OF THE R ED RocKS.

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CRA ZIEST

F1 s1-11NG

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OAK CREEK MAY NOT BE BIG llUT FISHERMEN STILL LIKE IT.

PAUL FANNIN G overnor of A rizona ARIZO N A HIGHWAY COMM ISSION

L. F. Q uin n, Chairman . . . . .

Frank L. C hristensen, V ice-Chairman . . . . . .

Milton L. R eay, Member . . . . . • . . • . .

J ohn J. Bugg, Member vV ilbur F . Asbury, i\llcmber . . . . vV m. E . W illey, State H wy. Engineer Justin H cr man, Secr etary . . . . .

. Miami Flagstaff . Saffor d Florence P hoenix P hoenix P hoenix

A RIZONA H IGHWAYS is published monthly by t he A r izona H ighway Department a few m iles north of the confluence of the G ila and Salt in A rizona. Address: ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, Phoenix, A rizona. $• .50 per year in U .S. and possessions; $4.50 elsewhere; 40 cents -e ~c h. Seco nd Class P ostage paid at P hoen ix and at additional m ailimr offices under Act of M arch 3, 1879. Copyrighted, 1959, by th~ Arizo na H ighway D epartment . ~116

F R O NT COVE R "RED R OCK CROSSING" BY TOMMY THOMAS. 4x5 Crown Graphic camera; Ektachrome; f .11 at ½ sec. (N ote : This w,1s one of t he infrequent times when the photographer used a Polaro id fi lter. This helped subdue the glare on t he water, and brought o ut t he r eflections more.) G rall.ex 13 5mm O p tar lens; O ctober; m id -afternoon, bright sun ; AS A rat ing 12. Scene sho,vs R ed Rock C rossing, with Cat hedral R ock in the background. T his landmark, also kn own as "Baldwin's Crossing" by oldtimers, is in Sedonaland, abou t seven and one-half miles southeast of Sedona.

O PPOSI T E PAGE "W ILSON MOUNTA IN - SEDONA - O A K CR EEK COUN TRY" BY L. 0 . RAACKE. Ciro-Flex-E 2 ¼x2 ¼ camer a; E ktac hr ome; f. 22 at 1/2 5th sec. ; G raflex Graftar F 3.5 85mm lens; A ug ust afternoon; bright sunlig ht with cloud shadows; GE DW68 meter r c:1d in1.r 20 ft. can d les, cover closed; ASA rating 32 . V iew is of \ Vilso,; Mountain, elev. 7, r 16 ft. in O ak Creek Canyon country; ta ken from north end of Sedona-O ak Creek Airport, built on T able T o p Mountain at an elevation of 4,826 feet w ith runway of approximately 4,000 f t., located in the fa bulous R ed R ock country o ne and one half miles so uth of Sedona, just off U.S. 89 A lt. T his air port is listed by Arizona Aviation Authority as follows: L at.

34 ° 50' ; Long . r ro 47'. Elevation 4,826- ru nways: N / S 38. Landing an d t,1kc-o ff from t his airport gives one a 360° panorama view of the beautiful R ed R ock countr y .

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In this extravagant p alette of color c alled A rizona, t here are many areas where masses of red rock lend adornment and° effulgence to the landscape. O ur c oncern and our pleasure t his issue is to devote our pages to t he most r adiant of all the R ed R ock areas in this state- or any state, for that matter- t he R ed R ock Country _of Sedona and O ak C reek Canyon. Many traYelers w ith knowledge of the grandeur of G rand Cany on, t he massiveness of Zion, and t he spired resplendence of Bryce, consider the R ed Rock Count ry of w hic h \\·e speak t he most r adiant of all, wit h an intimacy and w armth not . p ossessed by the others.

It is contended by many residents there t hat t he casual traveler on U .S. 89-Alternate misses m uc h of t he w o1'1derful scenery of t he area by not taking a fe" · of t he side roads and tarrying a day or so in t he back count ry where t he sculptured landscape drips w ith color and t he vistas are majestic to behold. To better acq uaint y ou with t he hidden scenic surprises to be fo und by t he t raveler ·w ho li kes "to poke about a bit," we have a G rand T our of t he R ed Rock Country mapped out both for your reading and travel pleasure.

We give y ou a short history of movie making among the Red R ocks (Western movie makers with an alert eye for scenery r eturn t here time and time again ); w e tell vou about a summer art sc hool (what an inspirational setting fo r an artist ) j \\'e dip into t he ink pots of biography w ith an account of the Schnebly family, early settlers in the O ak Creek Canyon area (such heroic peop le helped build the West); and we invite you to go .fishing w ith us in a small stream w it h lots of fishing· p leasure throughout t he y ear ( no, you don't have to bring y our own rock ) .

And, we w ould li ke to say in closing, t he count ry is a'building up. Folks in t heir golden years fi nd t he Red Rock Country delightful, w it h weather nei t her too hot nor too cold, and t he p lace just an hour or so aw ay from Phoenix. Yep, the country is a'bui !ding up, but t he country is so big it' ll never get too c row ded o r lose its neig hborliness and friend liness.

We hope y ou like our R ed Rock Country ... R.C.

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COLOR CLASSICS F ROM A RIZONA HIGHWAYS

T his Issue

3511m1. slides in 2 " mounts, 1 to 1 > slides, 404· eacl.1 ; 16 to 49 slides, 3yq, eac/.J; yo or more, 3 for 'if,1.00. Catalogue o f prev ious slid es issued available on request . A ddress: A RIZO NA H rGHWAYs, P/.Joenix , A rizona.

O C-32 R ed Rock Crossing, cov . 1; OC-33 , N ilson M ou ntain-ScdonaO ak Creek Count ry, co v. 2; O C-34 Frog H o llow- Oak C reek, cov.

3; O C-3 5 Road Through Upper O ak C reek Can)·o n, cov. 4; O C- 36 Cliffs of Color-Oak Creek Canyon, p. q ; O C-37 D evil's Bridge, p.

14; O C-38 Merry-Go-Ro und, p . 15U; O C-39 C hapel o f the Holy Cross, p. r5L ; O C -40 F arm near Sedona, p. ,6 U ; O C-4 r Summer D ay, p. 16L; O C-42 Shee p G r azing near Sedona, p . 17U ; O C-43 Slide Area- Oak Creek, p. 17 L; O C-44 Panora ma- Red C liffs of Sedona, center spread ; O C-45 Red C liff V ista- F ro m Schnebly H ill, p. zoU ; O C-46 The R oad and Oak Creek, p. zoL ; O C-47 Lazy O ak C reek , p. 21; O C-48 R ainbow o ver the R ed C liffs, p . 22 U ; O C-49 Rock Fo rmations near Sedona, p. 22 L ; O C-50 Lo nesome Road Th ro ugh Red C liff Countrr, p . 23; O C -5 r Fire in t he R ed C liff · o f Sedo na, p. 24.

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e1,1 to be passi_·_n. g....··. . ·..... i1·1-trig··T·.1ed ···· · · T· _·. C. ,:~}J,J1e'"'~;veloped .wl'~; !f 'Sedona calle 1 cl·/ / // 01T- :a ,SJ,V}:::,,,,,. . _',' ~~1.} p ;=.I1.¥ . '{ 9?t;ib" i.~~~:f~~ lc d_ay mornmg_, ,v hen~ e be~] ~t \Vay- ''' ' ' ·-·-At lastt m 1901, when Ells1 p>rth wro~e o!,,, eta L1,y " .IS' side Chapel is sendmgit me out acres that c&t(ld b~ bo~ght °,/1,:t he banks ot ,.9 ' ' e~k, v~ ~ t,~({ acros~ Oak Creek Can~on . . ',~rT. C. sold dW his iVhs~Q;JI·! i mterests, a J h fa mily '\. · ~$'.~ ber'1. t111g from th_e chfl'.s ar~d 'bz.e.i~:.;>;:>,½ started West .. '\.,_ . , ,;;<;;/ . ,;, agam to harmo111ze w ith its own ,,.~,,"""'" . They shippe,d >an t1:1e,g;,,.p , . . . furniture, c lear echo ... stop and listen, for there is a story behind livest5ck; · ~n,ci ,J ii•l!l;) r1acliiuery;:, as well as feed and supt hat bell. plies,,,,,:,::t 'ih an emigrail.t ,,,p r on\ the Santa Fe, by way of Th e ~own of Sedona w as nam ed for a woman, .. ,,r."'"' "'F,li g's_taff and Jerome Junc'i:'io1i;, T'l;ere it required three of .,,/ ' ' Sedo1:ia !\hll er Schnebl y . At the turn of . the....,£5I1-!:li!i1',Y"""' the little narrow gauge cars of'"t-hc~"~p mted Verd ~ ~i!Jl,,,"'"""' Sedona ,·vas a busy. .:yo1,1gg "J]J,,9Q];,~ ;;:.0?.,~-:,{'F""?Z:1.'fs's'6ui:i farm, road to move their belongings afopg '1'i"t:~~.- hrse·t , Venty caring for her hu sband, "T. C. ," and their tw o small chi!seven miles of twisting track, actually,.a distance of onl y dren, with ne ver a thought of li ving elsewhere. seven miles "by crow." ,, Letters began corning from T. C. 's brother, E llsWelcomed happily by his brother, T ~ and Sedona w orth, who had gone to Arizo na th e y ear before. His soon had their family settled in a small clapb'o-w;.d cabin, glowing accounts of a fertile farm land in a protected which, though inadequate for the family's need ~'''tvtt&,. valley , never-failing water from O ak Creek, and the shelter. unbelievable red and white cliffs pointing up Mogollon Although she quickly learned to love the Rim to th e feathery pines on top, all th ese stories so beauty around her, there were times when S~g f you should h~

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ing the many miles between her and her old home, was beset by loneliness. So much work had to be done on the farm, however, that there was little time for thinking.

E ven the children had daily tasks to perform while the crops were being established. Welcome company of helpful neighbors, as well as the plans for the new house, helped her to forget herself, and the completion of the home a year later found her solidly established as an Oak Creek resident.

Around the new home trees and flowers grew surprisingly fast. Today, just south of the ranger station, stand the tall poplars and cottonwoods in a spot of cool :md serene beauty. Beyond, on all sides, are the ageless r ed cliffs} whose protecting arms sheltered the gro}ving crops fro in the storms of the Mogollon Rim. The;1 Iong growing f eason and the abundance of Oak Creek jvater made it a veritable Eden. i Flag:staff, to the north, was gro wing rapidly. Bl cause of its hig·h altitude, home-grown vegetables were/ unattainable-! The lack of a road was all that stood b&tween Oak q teek's fresh produce and the hungry pe0ple in t he t!Jriving lumber town. T. C. and E IJswof th had thought about a road for some time, reckoning i~creased prod;uce prices against the high freight rates on ~he West Coast vegetables. The old stage road, requir~hg three of travel, was impractical. Burro trails l,Pd up the in the only direct route. ; A campaign for the road was soon sftarted, the ; chneblys putting the first three hundred do)Iars toward i;J:. N eighbors contributed smaller amounts, atid soon T. C. lfad six hundred dollars in cash with pledges for several Yrnndred dollars more. Seeing this eviql'ence, County Sdpervisor George Babbitt at Flagstaff decided that the Oal2o~reek settlers really did want that ~oad. The county /then 'agreed to put up another six hptndred dollars to / match \it. i/ / As ',soon as the surveyors had 9bmpleted their job, the \\·orlf with picks, shovels, and / 'lynamite was begun.

I Many oq th'e··,s,ettlers worked out ~heir pledges at a dollar l ; a day, eafing a11,d sleeping on tl1e hill. T. C. made daily trips wiq1 supplif s for the ¼ ,frn, sometimes carrying Sedona's fresh-balz"ep pies as ~Pspecial treat. She took on his farm ;\ vork at ho,me to _ffee him for these trips.

Aftet· a couple \ >f n10nths it became evident that more mpney would b' ql eded. Coconino County added another/six hundred dcjJ:Tors, and in a few weeks the road was c<f h1pleted to t\il !!top of the plateau. At places it clung/ to a cliff sh~,lf, v¥ th only inches to spare between was·on wheels a_ l),d a st1eer drop. Here provisions were n}r'de so that r:"'grade /existed, always sloping into the rocky wall. ,/· i " In late,t yyears son,le of the grades proved to be toq I steep f~.r:<cars, and th,e road was rerouted in places. q:& of the,st difficult stre,tches may still be seen from Sed,ona, as t"diag-onal slash a'cross the mountain's side. " In --July of ,.tl; e second year after the Schr1eblys' arrival, the roaµ '\ vas ready for use. T. C. had)1is vegetables ready p f go up over it. Four horses w7re required to pull tJ;i,e ' wagon, which was loaded wJt'h fruits and veget;ibJes. A few melons and pumpkit}S' were hauled, ,but'\1s a rule, their prices did not justify ,tl'i'e transportation.

T. C. took an average of three .days, or two trips a week, to market. Eleven hours v\:.e fe generally required for one way, averaging about tl}ree miles an hour. Some-

times he w ould go part way up the hill in the evening, there making camp for an earl y start the next day . By using w et sacks to cover his bo xes, T. C. alway s got his produce to Flagstaff in good condition. Because it w as always in demand , the family prospered, and T. C.'s wagon w as loaded on return trips with lumber for the larger, two-story house he w as building, and w ith canned goods and supplies for the little store he operated.

With the opening of the Schnebl y Hill road, life at Oak Creek took on new zest. It soo n became the halfway station betw een Flagstaff and J erom e, th e busy mining town on the flanks of Mingus i\1ountain. i\!fony travelers stopped overnig!1t at Oak Creek; oth ers spent a few days fishing and htmting, and some just cam e to rest awhile in the scenic f cany on. H ealth seekers began ; to arrive as soon as w or9 of the dry m ountain air and ·,• the mild w inters was sp j-ead. Innumerable w agons preceded today' s throng of {ars and trailers.

As the new house v~'as completed, Sedona found the , extra rooms in great denjand. Meals at first were t wenty - _:'. fi ve cents, but the bou1.itiful table soon justi fie d a raise . to thirty -fi ve, for passej's-by. Never did room and board; at Oak Creek's first t01,frist mecca exceed a do llar a day ,· By this time the gf ow ing community neede d a m:1i,l exchange, and T . C. applied for a post office. H is r egues,t: w as granted; howeve¼', he was told that the name "02-k Creek Station" was t;oo long for postal cancellation. H,e received a blank to b,i filled out w ith the ne w name aloi1g with the rejection c1f the old.

Brother E llsw(/rth, w ho did most of the store i nd farm bookkeepingf read the government letter to "the family one morn$h g at breakfast. Suddenl y he g h ~1ced up at Sedona, at/ her dishpan across the room. Hi s· eyes twinkled. "By S / illy 1 \Ne' ll just call it Sedona! " P1}'\ mptIy the new naJi1e was in the mail, and the tO\vf,n w as christened. · "( As the y:dars passed, Sedona Schneb ly's life .t ook on a richness th:,1~ she never dreamed possible. A ne\v daughter, Genev\~ve, came to join the busy family. / Each day brought new fa ces to the hospitable table, and always the fami E'ar ones of family and friends w ei!t there. As travel c ;fo tinued to increase, Sedona had m'nple opportunity ,tc> extend her homespun hospitality/ and a cor dial welcofne to all who came. In return, she ) vas never forgottc11 by her guests. , The vegetable business was even Ql tter. Orders for tl1eir produce came from towns fafrher afield. The ~chneblys w ere busy every minute of the day, and hap/ piness kept apace. · Then came tragedy. Pearl, the little daughter just past five, was killed. T. C. had be:m in J erome that June day, selling strawberries and ot her produce that little .

Ellsworth and Pearl had helped to pick.

Late in the afternoon, Sedbna on horseback w ith t,he baby in her arms, young E lls,Xlorth on his horse, and Pci1rl on her pony , went after ,the cows. On the way back Pearl dismounted to go dgJ\vn a steep bank. On remounting, she had, childlike, Jooped the lead rope around her neck, so as to have both hands free for rega~ning her saddle. Noticing this, her mother had just raised her voice to correct the child, but it was too late. One cow had turned back, and the w ell-trained pony wheeled to head it off. Pearl clutched w ildly to keep_her seat as the cow and pony both pivoted sharply. She·was thrown off

over the pony's neck, to be jerked and dragged as the friohtened animal bolted home.

0 Sedona, sobbing hysterically and encumbered with the baby in her arms, vainly sought to stop the pony, but she was left far behind. A t the house were those who saw th e running pony and the bruised !ittle ~ody behind it as the hoof-beats came nearer. The little girl had been tenderly carried in and laid upon a couch w hen the mother arri ved, followed by little Ellsworth, w ho had sobbingly stopped in the dooryard to pick up _a small shoe.

The w eeks followed endlessly . The little funeral and wa rm sy mpathy of friends seemed like a dre~m to Sedona, who repeatedly blamed herself_ for_ the accident.

Neither her husband's love nor her faith 111 God could dispel the nightmare of a bolting pony and its dragging burden. The doctor advised T . C. to take her completely aw ay from the scene that constantly accused her. Only w hen she had left Oak Creek Cany on did the bitter . memory begin to fade for her.

Once more back home in Missouri among old fnends and familiar scenes, Sedona began to pick up the threads of the family's life. T. C. was satisfied for the first few months to work for others, but his independent spmt led him to go at last into business for himself. During the years that fo llowed, a son, Daniel Henry , was born, and Sedona was happy once more.

A fter a few years of operating the O ak Creek Station and the vegetable business the strain began to tell on the health of the elder Ellsworth and he sold the farm.

About this time the large house w as destroyed by fire, never to be rebuilt.

T he pioneering spirit -w hich so c haracterized T . C. could not be satisfied behind t he counter fo r long. A fter four years he sold his mercanti le business and filed on a Colorado homestead. There two more daug hters, Clara and Margaret, were born.

T wenty years saw bu~ little c han,ge in th ese de~oted people. H ard work had qmeted T. C. s dnve only slig htly . T he childr en, now grow n, were nea rly all gone from th e fa mily group . .. war service, schooling, and training shaping t he future of each. ~ ow T. C. and ?edona found a deeper companionship. Neit her could easily re_member a time w hen they had not been a team, overcom111g each ¡ obstacle in the course together.

In , 93 1 , influenza, broug ht on by the fig ht against a fierce plains blizzard, finally accomplished on T. C. w hat y ears of hard work had not been a_ble to do .. . . he took to his bed. H is doctor, remember111g Phoemx as a warm, dry area, suggested t hat T. C. go tl: ere, _wa rr~ing him that his health mi g ht be permanently impaired if he tri ed the higher altitude of O ak Cre_ek. Sedona was at t he bedside of her mot her and was not mformed of her husband's illness until he was on his w av to A rizona.

After three mont hs in Phoenix, T. C. decided he w ould have to return to O ak Creek, come w hat may. An old fri end assured him a job, so with w elcome and work waitino, he return ed to his r ed-wall ed canyon. In spite of t he ha~d wo rk on Farl ey's farm, T . C. was astonished to fi nd his health impro ved from t he fi rst, and he knew t hen t hat he w ould spend the r est of his life on Oak Creek.

Sedona joined her husband after a short time, not hesitating to return to t he scene of her tragedy . They had been too much a part of each other . . . she and T . C. ... to be separated any longer. Pearl's li ttle casket had been

Y ozmg Pearl and Ellsworth Schnebly

T . C. S chn ebly O ct . 1953

moved from the farm to the community cemetery, so t hat no reminder remained of the old home among the poplars.

A lthoug h her hair was sprinkled with_gray, and her y outhful litheness had been supplanted w ith plumpness, Sedona's warm brown eyes held the same spark le. If she felt any pangs of memory those first few weeks, sl: e kept them to herself, giving all her time to T. C. and l11S car e. Soon he w as as well as ever.

The Schneblys had alw ays been G od-fearing folk, but as a need for a church organization w as now keenly felt, Sedona put herself w hole-heartedly into t he~e activities. As secr etary-treasurer of t h~ gr~up, she mve?ed t he Sunday School and church savmgs 111 bonds, look111g ahead to the clay w hen a chapel might ~e built. "J\!lot he1: Schnebly" entrenched hers~lf deeper 111 _the hea_rts of neio¡hbors and newcomers alike. She especially delighted t he° children, w ho did not r emember her in t he ear lier years. The warmth of her smile drew them to her, and t he Sunday School grew.

T. C. had passed t he age of legal r etirement w ithout a thought of r esting. True, his step was slowe1:, but he and Sedona kept pace together. They chose for t heir final home a setting of incomparabl e beauty, north of t he tow n, w here t hey could look dow n upon the little church t hey had seen in their minds' eye for many y ears. H ere, too, t hey allowed themselves t he easier tempo of age, as t heir children and orandchildren returned from time to time.

In F ebru~ry, 1947, they r ejoiced in t he privilege of T he chapel today ...

celebrating fifty y ears together , w hile the entire community joined to pay them honor. Old friends, w ho had known t he Schnebly hospitality through the years, came from miles away .

By this time Hig hway 89A project~d th~ to"".n i?to national prominence as part of a scemc dnve nvalmg any stretch of road to be found in t he {!nited Stat~s.

T ourists came and marveled, some staymg to bmld homes for retirement among the red rocks. A rtists, w riters, and other gifted people agreed it was the "Shangri-la of t he West." Dovetailing with this new era, t he community life at Sedona changed but little, w hile the pioneers worked and p lanned for t heir church, grateful for contributions of those who came and u nderstood the need. T heir non-denominational meetings went on in t he old school house until it was leveled by fire. Fellow C hristians of another cong regation offered their church for use on Sunday afternoons. T he building fund gr ew.

In 1949 the little chapel began to rise. Sedona Schnebly saw t his dream come true, as today it stands, Jiving up to its name, "W ayside Chapel," welcoming the way far er who seeks a quiet place for an hour's devotion.

H owever , before t he chapel could be dedicated, J\ilot her Schnebly was taken to the hospital for major surgery.

T hen, seemingly w ell for a time, she attended the dedication, April 5, 1950. Soon after this, she entered the hospital again and was there for over a month. The doctors fi nally told T. C. t hat her death w as "only a matter of ... and the bell for Sedona

ti me." Facing t his blow, and realizing that his w ife wou ld be happier in her home, he brought her back t o O ak Creek. Because he and Sedona had never held impor tant things from one another, he disr egarded t he doctor's suggestion that she not be told. When she was settled in her cheerful room, he sat down beside her.

W hen he had finished t he brief statement, and w ith her hand still in his, she said calmly, "E veryone must go sometime, and I am ready."

From that time on T . C. spar ed no effort for her care. He never left her side for more t han a few minutes. Friends paid daily visits to her bedside, and t hese she always greeted wit h a smile, never complaining. E llsworth and his family lived nearby, and t heir youngest daughter M argaret, a nurse, came to ease her father 's burden. L ovingly she combed her mot her'5 hair, still T. C.'s pride. O nly lig htly gray , it " had a permanent w ave . . . by N ature," he remembered.

In the long night hours w hen sleep would not come to her, Sedona and her husband talked together. She asked that no one spend money fo r flowers fo r her funeral, rat her that contributions be held for a bell fo r t he chapel. Many times she would glance from her window , during t he day, to see the new building, complete but fo r a bell. Again a fund grew , fed by friends and passersby alike.

On N ovember 13, 1950, Sedona died. T he ~imp le funeral services w er e condu cted in the chapel and w er e at tended by a legion of friends. Her sons, Henry of D enver and E llsworth, of Sedona, and daughters, Clara Schnebly M cBride of Denver, and M argaret Schneb ly W allace, of Silver City, New Mexico, stood beside their father w hile Sedona was buried in t he red earth beside the grave of little Pear l.

After a few months Henry found a bell in D enver, and it w as sent to the chapel for installation. Contributions more than cover ed its cost, so a bronze plate was set into t he wall below t he belfry , where all may read: THE WAYSIDE CHAPEL BELL DEDICATE D IN L O VING MEMORY OF SEDONA M . SCHNEBLY 12-24-50 T he bell w as hung on Christmas E ve.

Mother's D ay, 1951, was a drizz ly morning in Sedona, but t he inside of W ayside Chapel was w arm and brig ht. E very seat was fil led as t he pastor recounted Sedona Schnebly 's life story. Sitting quietly among t heir friends w ere T. C. and his family . Near t he end of t he service, t he congregation joined hands, participating in a responsive reading, dedicating Sedona's bell. Her husband and son, holding t he rope together , at last gave it voice. Across the canyon it sounded, her fi nal dream a reality. T rue, the chapel-full of Sedonans had misty eyes, but there were smi les of happiness, too.

T wo years later, on another Mother's D ay, an organ w as dedicated in Sedona's memory in the chape l.

Again her family gathered beside their father. T his was his last springtime with them, for on M arch 13, 1954, he w as found in the kitchen of his home, w here he had ___ quietly slipped aw ay to join his beloved lady .

T he bell of Sedona calls the members and friends of W ayside Chapel to w orship, but it does more. Its tones w ill keep alive, forever, t he memory of a courageous pioneer woman, whose vision has hung it there.

'ayso·s BRADSHAW

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··: Cop.per Canyon T h e L ast W agon

26 Men 10 sa1 gun feuds and wild towns have disappeared from the West and that outlaws and Indians no longer ride the mountains and valleys of Arizona?

T he sound of gunfire and Indian war cries is not new in the t own of Sedona, Arizona. An average of two major motion pictures a year have been filmed near Sedona during the past fifteen years.

A few oldtime movies like Last of the Duanes, Snio!~y, and Riders of the Purple Sage were made in 1930 and 1932. T hese t hree and Robbers' Roost were fi lmed in Oak Creek Canyon by Fox F ilms, Inc. A lso made in the early days were Stormy by Universal, and RKO's Three W ere Thoroughbreds, starring t he German shepherd dog Lightning and police dog Warrior supported by R ex, King Of Wild Horses, and his colts Rex Jr . and Stormy . Rex and his colts were ow ned by Lee Doyle of F lagstaff, Arizona, ·w ho furnished transportation and livestock for all of t he movies in the early days.

Pictures made since 1 940 are listed below. Some were film ed almost entirely in the Sedona area, while others such as California had onl y a few scenes shot in Oak Creek Cany on. In California, the spectacular covered w agon scenes w ere filmed on Schnebly Hill, and the place wher e the w agons w er e lowered over a steep cliff is called t he Merry-G o-Round Rock. It can be seen on the Schnebly Hill drive exactly six miles from Sedona.

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Movies made all or in part Canyon country are :

111

Sedona-Oak Creek

PARAMOUNT California - R ay Milland, Barbara Stanwyck Cow boy and the Redhec;.d - Glenn Ford, R honda Fleming A lbuquerque - R andolph Scott, Barbara Britto n Desert Fury - Elizabeth Scott, John I-1 odiak, Burt La!1caster Flaming Arrow - Sterling Hayden, Barbara Rush, Victor Jory Copper Can yon - R ay Milland R EPUBLIC A ngel and the Badman - John vVay ne, Gail Russell Fabulous T exan - W illiam E lliot, John Carroll Jo!mn y G uitar - Sterling Hayden, Joan Crawford, 1\ilercedes McCambridge H el/fire COLUMBIA . . _ Strawberry Roan - G ene A utry R elentless - Robert Young, Marg uerite Chapman, Felicia Farr 3: 10 to Y uma - Glenn Ford, Felicia Farr, V an Hefl in G un Fury - Rock H udson, D onna R ecd WARNER BROTH ERS Drum Beat - Alan Ladd, C harles Bronson Cheyenne - D ennis Morgan, Jane vVyman RKD Stations W est - Did P owell, Jane G reer , Agnes Moorehead Blood on the M oon - Ro bert Mitchum, Walter Brennan , Robert Preston, Barbara Bel Geddes H alf Breed - Robert Young, Jack Butel 20th CENT URY - F OX Broken Arrow - Jeff C handler , D ebra Paget, James Stewart L eave H er to H eaven- Gene Tierney, Corne! vVilde, J eanne Craine T /Je L ast ·w agon - Richard vVidmark, Felicia Farr, Susan K o hner Pony Soldier - T yrone Power, T homas Gomez, Cameron Mnchell

HJ G l-1\-V A YS

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1959

R ock H udson-G un Fury

ALLIED ART ISTS Shotgun - Ste rli ng H ay den, Zachary Scorr, Yvonne de Carlo M GM Billy tin K id - R obert T aylor, Bri,11"1 D on lcvy T he following were also fil med in Sedo na: Stranger on J--1 o-rse/Jack - Jocl McCrea, Miroslava, Barbara G ates Apacbe - Bu rt Lanc.1ster, Sus,111 P eters Eagle and tbe l-lawJ.: - Jo hn P ayne, D enn is O 'K cefc __ Coman che T erritory - Macdonald Carey, Ma ureen O 'Hara

Being a photogra pher and not a wri ter , maybe I should have left th is stor y for someone else to write, bnt I t hought I would giv·c it a whi rl as I have worked

G eorge 1l1.011tgo111ery-War Cry

Dick Powell-Stations West

Half Breed

Stations West

as an extra, stand-in, riding double or carpenter in every movie filmed in the area since 1946.

Some of the most interesting work I've done with picture companies is finding locations to fit the scenes in the story and supp lyi ng horses and equ ipment such as wagons and buggies. Companies like to hire as many wagons, buggies and horses as possible on location instead of bringing them from Holl ywo od. Cast horses (the ones t he stars in the picture ride) are usually brought from Ho ll y,1·ood. Occasionall y, loca l horses are used for the stars to ride and quite often local horses are used to double the cast horses, just as an actor's double w ill substitute for the actor in the long shots and fast chases.

Jn this way, the special horse c hosen for the actor is not used unnecessarily and is saved for the close-ups. The horses the local extras ride are usually not fancy-colored, hut just so lid-colored horses like bays, browns and sorrels.

The reason for this is that the actor's fancy-colored horse w ill stand out and will help to identify the actor in the long shots and fast chases. An exception to this rule is when groups of Indians use spotted pinto horses and palominos. All of the trick horses are brought from Ho ll ywoo d. Fal ling horses are trained to fall w hen the reins are drawn hard against their neck. Rearing horses w ill rear when the actor or double raises the reins to a high position. vVith each company making location shots is a represe ntative of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Anima ls to make sure that horses are treated humanely

Jeff Chandler, Jimmy Stewart-Broken Arrow

Flan,zing Arro~w Cowboy and the Red Head Robert Young in Half Breed

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1959

and that nothing shows in the picture which might suggest cruelty to an animal.

There are many reasons Hollywood studios come to Sedona, but the main reason is the variety of photogenic scenery available. There is beautiful rushing Oak Creek, high timbered mountains, and, at lower elevations, even arid desert. The red rock canyons and unusual rock formations provide locations for almost any scene in any western story. One director who has made several pietures in the area summed up this aspect by saying, "We like to come to Sedona because all of the scenery is interesting. No matter which way you point the camera, you find a spectacular background." He also said, "When you get along well in a locality where everyone cooperates with you, you like to come back to make another picture." Perfeet weather is another factor that attracts movie makers.

The Oak Creek-Sedona country benefits from every picture made in the area. A large company will include 1 50 people, counting cast and crew. They will stay usually from two to eight weeks. Some companies will hire quite a few local extras and others will hire only a few. "Walkers" (extras who don't ride) are paid $10 a day, and those that ride horseback are paid $ 15 a day. This work may include wearing hot cavalry uniforms in the middle of summer or Indian breechcloths in the middle of winter. When you ride at full gallop down a rocky hillside with about twenty horses behind you, you sometimes wonder if $ 1 5 for an extra is enough, but you go ahead anyway because there is something about working in the movies that makes you do things you wouldn't do if the cameras weren't grinding away. All of the extra work is done by people who live near Sedona unless a large company of foot soldiers or a large crowd of people

is needed. In this case, more help is called in from surrounding towns. For the picture The Last Wagon, two hundred Apache Indians were called in from the Fort Apache Indian reservation to work in an attack on the cavalry wagons. Actor Richard Widmark, with the help of special effects men, set off a dy namite blast in the wagons which scared off the Indians and scattered them and horses in every direction. Special effects men are important people on any picture. When you see a dy namite blast or burning building in a movie you know the special effects men were there and had it completely under control. Other duties of these skilled workmen include bullets ricocheting from rocks ( done ·with a pellet gun which leaves powder on the rock) and arrows killing the unlucky villain. This is usually done by running the stub of an arrow down a wire (invisible to the camera) and sticking it in a cork vest worn by the actor.

These special effects men are brought from Hollywood as well as are property men (in charge of revolvers, rifles, saddles, and other company props) and wardro be men (in charge of all uniforms, hats, boots, and extras' wardrobes as well as actors' wardrobes).

Others in the crew are the director, first assistant director, second assistant director, cameraman, script men and women, hairdressers, makeup men and women, camera crew, transportation department ( drivers of cars and trucks), sound department (handles microphones near actors and records sound in sound truck), lighting department. The lighting department runs big generators far enough from the action so the sound doesn't record on the film track and generates electricity for big arc lights. This department works in cooperation with camera crew to make correct lighting on closeups. This department also handles reflectors to utili ze sun light. Local people are used at various jobs. Carpenters are hired from the carpenters' union, truck drivers and horse wranglers are hired from the teamsters' union, and grips are hired from the theatrical workers union (grips handle reflectors, carry things from place to place, and make themselves generally useful).

Feeding, housing, and supplying all of this personnel plus wages to local people result in a temporary but appreciated gain in Sedona prosperity. As long as there are bright clear days most of the year and plenty of beautiful western backgrounds, stagecoaches will roll, desperados will bite the dust and the Old vVest will live again in the Sedona-Oak Creek Canyon Red Rock country.

And now you TV viewers will see the area as background in TV westerns. 26 Men, being filmed in Arizona, has already shot some scenes in the area. You can't beat pretty scenery for westerns.

The Last Wagon

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ne of the most beautiful scenic areas in the world is the Sedona Red Rock Country ... and I'd like to take this occasion to show you a goodly portion of it. In fact, I have a carefully planned tour all figured out and ready for you. The very same "Grand Tour"-as my friends have dubbed it-that I've personally taken many of our vacationing friends on, ·w hen they've come visiting us here in Sedona.

It was way back in 1950 that I first came through the ( then, but not any more) very small town of Sedona located at the mouth of Oak Creek Canyon in centralnorthern Ari zo na. Unfortunately I was on a vacation with a planned-ahead "schedule" to keep, so I could only stay half a day.

Then the following year-come vacation time again and completely fascinated by the previous year's brief olimpse of the scenic wonders that abounded in the Sedona Red Rock Country-I came back to spend my

entire two weeks wandering around and exploring. It was a wonderful visit that I never forgot .

Finally, six years later-married now and with two small boys to bring up-I moved permanently to Sedona (from Los Ange les). My w ife, the boys and I have been living here ever since, and thoroughly enjoying every minute of it. I've had time by now to explore all of the roads, hike through a good many of the cany ons, and climb most of the surrounding mountains. A nd it just keeps getting more fantastically and enchantingly beautiful all the time, with each of the four seasons bringing new wonders to behold.

I'd like you to see it too!

Close your eyes and imagine a place, if you will, that is composed of an intimate ( and "intimate" is the key word here) mi xture of wondrous scenery such as appears for all th e world like portions of the Grand Canyon in miniature. For "seasoning" in what might be called Mother Nature's Sc enic Salad Superb, throw in addi-

The post office in Sedona

HO USE

MOUN TA I N

HORSE MESA PAGE ELEVE N

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1-l ! G H, VAYS

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1959

tionaJ small portions of Monument Valley and Canyo n de CheJly and other assorted Arizona spots of scertic grandeur and extremely vivid beauty . Now shake these ingredients together well, let them settl e, and then open your eyes to find yo urself viewing w hat can only be regarded as one of the most spectacular scenic areas on earth .. . Sedona and the Oak Creek Canyon country.

But enough of all this grandiose talk 1 Climb into your car and meet me in Sedona , on U.S. 89-A ( just twenty -eight miles south of Flagstaff), and let's get going on an actual ex ploration tour of this fascinating area. So that we can't miss each other, meet me in front of the post office on the south sid e of town.

It's summ er-the best of all times for y our visit-so bring along yo ur bathing suit, in case you decide to stop for a p leasant swim in O ak Creek along th e way. And be sure to wear wa lking shoes (with rubber soles, if possible), t o most thoroughly enjoy any occasional ·w andering around on foot that you may decide to do. Also, by all means, don't forget your camera and pl enty of film ... p referabl y color film in country like this. (Should you have any doubts about w hat exposures to use around here in thi s brilliantly bright and vividl y colorful area, stop

by Bradshaw's Photo Shop in town for some good advice ~

in th.is direction painlessly.)

Th e "Circle" Tour You just arrived this morning, you're likely located in one of the many pleasant motels that abound in this Tourists' Paradise, and you've spent the remainder of the morning wandering around our friendl y and cordial town, visiting the shops and getting acquainted. Now it's just after lunch-which is the very best time to get started-and you 're raring to go.

Okay, so let's get started!

From in front of the post office head south down 89A, exactly 1.4 miles to the turn-off road up towar d the airport and the Lookout Point on top of Table Top Mirnntain. It's only a tenth over a mile up to the top, so let's turn left and head up the red-dirt road. At the top, just before the U-turn in the road, park your car and walk the few feet over to the edge of the mountain for a striking 1 So-degree panoramic view of the country below. The magnificent and awe-inspiring expanse below should provide you with the first of many thrills that y ou w ill experience along this entire tour. Afterwards, if you're interested, from this Lookout Point you can

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,II '* ."* -·· _+f:.' ft . .. .·.·, ..1.:~ ·- · :!;" -. ~ ~ : ~Jf/ ·,# .':_R,. ..J,:IA.~?.·- -~·"!..II.~-~•:::~...... !-¥-/.. ,. :.~··,~•.-.:.. ,.. . 1'if-.)f,._ .... . . . .. • -* .._ ~ 0 P P O SI T E P A G E ' attracts thousands of visitors each year , of all denominations, "C LIF FS OF COLOR- OAK CREEK CANYO~" BY JOSEF beca use of its starkly beautiful architecture and unique setting.

MUENCH. 4x5 G rap hic View camera; Ektachrome; f. 18 at 1/ ,oth Chapel of the Holy Cross was made possible by th e generosity of sec.; 8 ¼" Goerz Dagor lens; March; sunn y d ay . View taken from Marguerite Brunsw ig Staude, sculptress and philanthropist, and was designed by Architect Keith Monroe. The Chapel was dedicated Schn ebly Hill , reac hed on a road tl,at takes off from Alt. U.S. 39 from Sedona. This is one of th e most colorful ,·iews to be had from in i956.

"FARM NEAR SEDONA" BY BOB BRADSHAW. 5x7 Crown t hi s hilltop abm e th e red rock formations of Oak Creek Canyon.

For brilliant ;md exq uisite colors few places in the West can rival Graphic camei·a; Ektachrome; f.11 at 1 / 25th sec.; E lnar lens; Jun e; the massive cliff formations of Sedona-Oak Creek Canyon country. morning average light; light value of 15 on G E meter ; ASA rating 12. View shows Beaver Kreek Ranch, twenty miles from Sed ona on the Bell Rock road. Small farms scattered throughout the area F OLLOWI NG PAGES show up like isolated jew els.

"DEVIL'S BRIDGE" BY W. G. CARROLL. 4x5 Linhof Technika "SUMMER DAY" BY E STHER HENDERSON. The Sedonaca mera; Ektachrome ; f.16 at 1/ 5th sec.; 90mm. Schneider Angulon Oak Creek Canyon red cliff country is always a delight to phole ns and Pol aroid fil ter; A pril; cloudy, but bright. Startin g at to gra ph ers in any sort of weather, but w hen the great w hite clouds Sedona - approx imatel y three miles S. W . on Alt. U .S. 89, turn of summer come boiling in over the Rim, even the blase phonorthwest on Dry Creek road (d irt) and take all ri ght hand forks tographer gets excited. to remain on Dry Creek Ro ad. D evil's Bridge about four mil es "SH EEP GRAZING NEAR SEDONA" BY BOB BRADSH AW. from A lt. U.S. 89. Ru gged Boy nton Can yon cuts into valley's wa lls 5x7 Crown Graphic camera; Ektachrome; f.8 at 1/ 50th sec.; at upper left. Trail lead ing to Sterling and Bear Sign Canyons takes E krar lens; June; afternoon- normal light; GE meter light va lue of one into can yon at upper right.

15 ; ASA rating 12 . Turn left fi ve miles south of Sedona on U.S. "ME RRY-G O-RO UND " BY TOMMY THOMAS. 4x5 Crown 89A. Travel two miles and turn left again, drive half mile and turn Grap hic camera ; E ktac hrome ; f.9 ½ at ½ sec .; Graflex 135 111111. ri ght half mile to find this location.

Optar lens; Nov ember; bright sun, but late in the afternoon; ASA "SLIDE AR EA-O A K CREE K" BY BOB BRADSHAW. 5x7 rating 12. View shows t he Merry-Go-R o und ato p Schnebly Hill Crown Graphic camera; Ektachrome; f.8 at 1/ rooth sec.; E lnar near Sedona. Fi,·e miles up the Schnebly Hill mountain road-and len s; May; bright morning sunlight; GE meter light value of 20; at an elevat ion approac hin g 7,000 feet- is this fantastic rock formaASA rating 12. On Oak Creek at O ak Creek Bridge 7.5 miles ti on that is suc h a wond erful Lookout Point overlooking much of north of Sedona on U.S. 89A. This type of picture is a problem Sedona (j ust below) and th e Verde Valley way off in th e di sta nce. for any photograp her who uses a camera like a Graphic w ith a By all means park your ca r along the roadside (there 's a little parklong focal len gth lens. He must use a fast enough shutter speed to in g area just behind th e formation) and climb the easy trail that sto p the mo vement of the water and still use a small enough lens takes you the couple hundred yards or so to the top of thi s formaopening to keep the foreground and background in focus. The tion . . . for one of th e breath-takin g sce nic views of a lifetime.

Slide area of Oak Creek is a fa vorite recreation place for children A nd, if you are agil e enough, by all mea ns climb down to the visitin g during summers. "belt" ( the strata of w hitish-tan colored rock) and explore amon g th e man y wind-blow n tunn els that haYe been etc hed o ut of the soft CENTER SPREAD "PA N ORAMA-R E D CLIFFS OF SEDONA" BY BOB BRADsandstone.

"CHAPEL OF TT-JE HOLY CROSS" BY J. FR E D AN D FRAN SHAW. 5x7 Eastman View camera; E ktachrome; f.22 at 1/ 10th DODSON. 4x5 Busch Pressman ca mera; E ktac hrom e; f.22 at \!, th sec.; Commercial Elnar lens ; May ; bright sun-mid-day; GE meter sec.; Wo ll ensak 135111111. lens; Jul y; some dark cloud s in sky; GE li ght value of 20; ASA rating 12. Turn left fi ve miles south of meter reading 3 ½ ; ASA rating 12. This picturesque Catholic Sedona on U.S. 89A. Travel about half mile to this location. Such shrin e, a fe w miles so uth east of Sedona in O ak Creek Canyon, panoramic views show the spaciousness and majesty of the area. ..

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ARIZONA

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1959

Q"Devil's Bridge" w.

"Merry -Go-Round"

TOMJ\IY THOMAS

G. CARROLL

"Chapel of the Holy Cross" J.

F.

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"Farm Near Sedona"

BOB BRADSHAW

"Sheep Grazing Near Sedona''

BOB BRADSHAW

· "Summer Day"

ESTHER !fENDERSON

"Slide Area - Oak Creek"

"Panorama - Red Cliffs of Sedona"

BOB BRADSHAW

BOB BRADSHAW[;

"Red Cliff Vista - From Schnebly H ill"

N ORMAN G. WALLACE

"Lazy Oak Creek" "The R oad and Oak Creek"

RAY M AN LEY

TOMMY T HOM AS [ ;

"Rrti77bow Over the Red Cliffs" J . G.

M OORE

"Lonesome Road Through Red Cliff Country " "Rock For111atiom Near Sedona"

HU.BERT A. LOWMAN

TOM MY THOMAS

Q

get back in your car and continue on another quarter mile or so to t he bigger-than-you-think "private" airstrip. Then you can double back down the mountainside to the main highw ay again.

Now , back on 89-A going southw est again, go 3.1 miles to the turn-off road that really gets you started on the main part of the tour. J ust after you turn left off the highw ay onto this red-dirt road, pause a m oment to study the highway signs here. T he fact that you're on the Red R ock R oad heading toward Red R ock Crossing is w hat's important. Then, as you wind you r w ay dow n this gentle but " curvaceous" road, get set to see some vivid and varied scenery pop up m ore and more in front of you. That's ma jestic Courthouse Butte way off in the distance in the " middle" there. And much c loser in, to t he right, is the huge Cathedral R ock form ation. You' ll get a much better view of it when y ou get down to Red Rock Crossing and can look up at it . .. for it's t ruly · · an imposing sight from below.

I'd rther, fu proceeding Before : OTE N SPECIAL like to mention a "point of confusion" that exists here in Sedona regarding the names of som e of the various rock formations and other scenic points in the ar ea. U nfortunately , through t he y ears, some of these names have been changed around, to t he point now that even t he old-timers of long standing have trouble k eeping t hem str aight. So to be as consistent and clear-cut as pos-

sible, I've used t he names as they are listed on the Forest Service maps and t he posted road signs. If y ou keep this in mind w hen you hear "other" names mentioned (" R ed R ock Crossing" used to be called "Baldwin's Crossing," for examp le . . . and " Cat hedral R ock" behind it was formerly called " Courthouse R ock" ) , then you'll likely save yourself a bit of not-expected wonderment- not to say honest confusion. N ow, let's get back to ou r tour.

Finally, after not quite two miles of down-hill traveling, you'll come to anot her turn-off road. This is where you turn left off R ed R ock R oad onto L ittle Park R oad.

The Little Park R oad goes off to the left by itself nm\ , so just continue on Little Park R oad for about 0 4 mile to still another tur n-off point. T he sign there says t hat Little Park R oad goes to t he right towar d Red R ock Crossing, but let's take a short detour first. Continue on more or less- mostly less- straight ahead, and then wi nd up a little hill road to your right about 0.7 mile from where you just left Little Park R oad. A t the top, which is called " Chavez H eights," t he road divides again. You can either park her e ( betw een the two roads) and walk the few steps, or you can swing your car around the U -turn bend in the road to your left and stop . .. for a marvelous view over looking the Chavez R anch dow n below to your left. If you saw this colorful panorama that was the centerspread photo in the May , , 95 5, issue of ARIZONA H IGHWAYS, t hen y ou'll already have some small

"R E D CLIFF VISTA - FROM SCHNE BLY HILL" BY NORMAN G. WALLACE . 5x7 Eastman Graflex camera; K odachrome; f .6.3 at 1/ 65th sec. w ith tri pod ; Eastman Anastigmat F,4,5- 8 ½" lens; A pril; bright sunshine ; ASA rating 12. V iew fro m Schnebly Hill road looking northwest o ver V erde Valley. O ak Creek mi ddle distance. About eight miles from Schnebly Hill turn off from H ighway 89A near hair pin turn at saddle. Sch nebly Hill road begins at old Sedona store, at junction with U .S. 89A. M any color view s from this road if taken before 3 P .M . Sun after that time against lens. Foxborough R anch in pine forest about four miles ahead.

New Black Canyon-V erde-Flagstaff highw ay fi ve m iles ahead.

"THE RO AD AND O AK CREEK" BY R AY MANLE Y. 5x7 L inh of camer a; Anscochrome ; f. 18 at , / 25th sec.; 8 ½" Schn eider Symar lens; No vember; morning sun. T aken near second br idge above Sedona in O ak Creek Canyon. U .S. 89A follows O ak Creek all the way through t he canyon an d affords inn umerable views of t he charming creek.

"LAZY OAK CR EEK " BY TOMMY T HOMAS. 4x5 Crown Graphic camer a; Ektachrome ; f.1 9 at 1/ roth; Graflex 135mm O pt ar lens; O ctober ; bright sunshine; ASA rating 12. View shows t he slide-rock r apids area in O ak Creek Cany on about eight m iles north of Sedona (and twenty miles south of Flagstaff) on U .S. 89A, w here the highway crosses over the O ak Creek Br idge. Park on t he south side of the bridge, t hen follow the trail down to t he creek and go u pstream past t he main O ak Cr eek F alls to th is w onderful ar ea, about half mile from the highway. This area, unseen and overlooked by most people who go t hrough Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon, is delig htful. H ere the nature lover, be he swimmer, hiker, fisher man, photograp her, or w hat-ha ve-you, will come across such a concentration of varied beauty as is seldom found in such a small area.

"RAINBO W O VER THE R ED CLIFF S" BY J. G . M OORE . 4x5 Busch Pressman camera; Ektachrome; f.9 at r /2 5th sec.; 135mm .

Raptar lens; late J uly ; about 6:45 P .M. ; Weston meter rno; ASA rating 20. Photograph t aken in Broken Arrow , a subdivision in t he Sedona area, looking east into Morgan Stables, a series of cany ons on th e wester n r im of Lee Mountain. The photographer says: "This was strictly a gr ab shot . W e had been invited to a friend's house for dinner. O ne of the su mmer thunder show ers had just

passed. As w e sat down to dinner someone said, 'Look at the beautiful light.' Several ran out to see and, of cou rse, T grabbed a camera out of the car. As the rainbow ap peared to be fading fast, I took a quick r eading and shot t he picture."

"ROCK F ORMATIONS N E AR SE DONA" BY HUBERT A. LO W M AN . Bran d 17 4x5 View camera ; Ektachrome; f.32 at r sec.; 1 , ¼" ( 29 cm.) element of P rotar (breakdown ) lens; summer; sunshine, half-hour before sunset; W eston ro meter reading.

T aken in O ak Creek Canyon, about thr ee miles east of Sedona on the gravel r oad, then on foot about a quarter of a mile north. At the view point where this scene was made, the formations were sci][. qui te some distance away, th erefore the long foca l length lens w as c hosen to enlarge the scene on the film. T he small aperture and correspondingly long exposure were used because the breakdown lens does not "cut it shar p" at larger apertures.

"LONE SOME R OAD THROUGH R ED CLIFF C O U N T R Y"

BY TOMi\!IY T HOM AS. 4x5 Crown G raphic camer a; E ln achrome; f. 16 at ½th sec.; Graflex 135mm O ptar; October; less than one half hour before sundown : "T he sun was going down so fast it changed the light readings faster than I co ul d apply them, so I just guessed as best I could . .. and bracketed," the photograph er says. ASA r ating 12. W hen you d rive out to R ed R ock Crossing (from t he town of Sedona) you can keep on going, ford ing Oak Creek and following t he red -dirt road to the Sedonaland areas known as L ittle Park and Big Park. T his is in Little Park, 1¾ miles beyond R ed R ock Crossing. Driving on the brilliant red-dirt back roads of Sedona is quite an experience. T his was late in the aftern oon, not long after a cloudburst, when the shadows were long an d the colors extr emely vivid . . . and this old cattleguard made a perfect setting for a picture.

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OPPOS I T E PAG E "F IRE IN THE R ED CLIFFS OF SEDON A " BY R . J. FISHER .

Few areas in t he Southwest can so dramatically combine the splendors of earth and sky as the Sedona-O ak Creek Canyon R ed R ock country. T he country itself is fantastically colorful, the colors ·being so varied they defy description. W hen a storm approaches from the Rim and a waning but defiant sun still persists in illuminating the landscape, the result is such a scene as t his.

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BOB BRADSHA\V

TOMMY THOMAS

Down Oak Creek Canyon from Lookout Point

Chavez Ranch and Sedona spires beyond Chavez Ranch

idea of what it really looks like when you see it "in person." Then, without moving more than just your headto the right-you can view an entirely different panorama.

You're quite a bit closer to Courthot!se Butte off to the left now, and just to the right of that huge rock formation you can see the top of smaller Bell Rock just barely peeking up from behind still another mountain of red rock.

The road to "Chavez Heights" leads to a deadend either way you go, so let's go back down the hill again to where we turned off, and then to the left along Little Park Road about o.6 mile to Red Rock Crossing.

Red Rock Crossing I sincerely hope that you have lots of time when you arrive here, because there's quite a bit to do and see in this one spot ... which is perhaps the most beautiful and well known of all the many scenic points in and throughout Sedona.

This is a Forest Service Campground Area with picnic tables, fireplaces, restrooms, changing screens, etc.

There's no drinking water, though. And house trailers are not allowed here (it's not large enough an area) ... but you can camp up until the limit of fourteen days if you wish.

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And a more enchanting place to visit-and rev1s1t many times-it would be difficult to find. Before fording the water, park your car on this side of Oak Creek and wander around a little, orienting yourself. You'll likely see dozens of people (kids mostly) swimming in the not overly deep waters here. During the summer the water is warm and inviting, with countless different types of wading and swimming spots to choose from . . . from little inches-deep places with or without little waterfalls, to deeper portions that average three or four feet in depth. It's a splendid swimming area for the entire family ( a great personal favorite of my whole family, I might add). And by the way, that extremely beauteous rock formation in the background is the one I mentioned on the way down, Cathedral Rock. It will make a perfect background for many of the photos of Red Rock Crossing that you will surely want to take in this area.

Now, if you haven't decided to don your bathing suits as yet-and therefore can't wade or swim acrosslet's get back in the car and ford the creek. Now don't get scared! Just follow the road where it leads into the water and go right on across. It's usually only about five or six inches deep as an average, and the bottom is solid red rock, so you won't have a bit of trouble as long as

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you go straight ahead. There are times, immediately after an especially heavy summer thundershower or in the late fall or winter season of course, that you won't be able to ford the creek ... but you won't have any trouble in making a decision. Either the water is calm and not over eight inches deep · in the very center (at the "fordable most"), or it's practically a raging torrent that will leave not a bit of doubt in your mind as to whether or not you should cross it. But, it's summertime now, and the water is calm and slow. So go on over to the other side; then pull over to the right and park your car again.

Here, on the far side of Red Rock Crossing, you'll discover even more varied scenery to examine ... both upstream and down. I highly recommend that you do a bit of exploring here, because either in the water or out, it's a tremendous lot of fun. And be especially sure to take lots of pictures, because this is really a place to tell the folks back home about, and having those pictures later will make it a lot easier ( and more believable, in the event your friends think you're "extravagating" a bit).

Finally, continuing the tour in your car again, follow the red-dirt road into and through the Little Park and Big Park areas ( see the map). This is an extremely pleas-

ant-though sometimes dusty-five-mile drive along a road that takes you past much more of Sedona's natural red-rock beauty in infinite and dramatic variety. There's a long range of red rock mountains on the left and, about midway, the interesting Verde Valley School on the right . . . a cluster of white buildings snuggled at the base of another mountain. And if you've been watching your mileage, it's almost exactly 5.2 miles from Red Rock Crossing now far behind to the turn-off onto the blacktop highway back to Sedona. Turn left onto the highway, following the direction of the arrow on the sign posted there: Sedona, seven miles. That-a-way!

Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte Once you've turned into the black-top road-which makes for extremely easy riding after the somewhat lumpy and bumpy back roads you've been on for so long a stretch now-you'll see Bell Rock straight ahead of you down the highway.

This should be your next stopping point.

Now I suppose you can continue on down the highway until you're well past Bell Rock, and until you can look back and just sort of admire both Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte "sitting" right next to each other ...

BUT if there's the least bit of adventurer in you, then

by all means stop and explore Bell Rock first, before you drive on by. Just park off the highway right beside the mountain of red rock (which will look completely different and suddenly much larger once you're directly underneath it), get out and walk all around the huge formation. I can promise you that you'll see and discover wonders of nature that you'll never forget, in the form of weirdly beautiful and extremely colorful erosions in this red mountain of weathered sandstone. All yours to see for merely the "cost" of spending an hour or so in a pleasant walk. And, if you're so inclined, you can go part way up the gently sloped side of Bell Rock on your ,vay around.

The view is terrific!

All in all, it's fun for the whole family (my own yo ungsters have been up and down and around it many times, enjoying it more each time). And it makes for another nice stretching place for muscles tired from too much traveling in an automobile. Hey! If you're a photographer-and who isn't ?-and you're looking for something a little "differnt" to photograph . . . you'll find differences by the dozens as you explore Bell Rock, and the even "huger" Courthouse Butte formation right next to it (though I don't recommend "the Courthouse" for climbing, unless you're an expert).

Then, afterwards and with your explorations over, you can travel down the highway a bit before you stop once again, perhaps, to take long-view photos ( or just enjoy looking at) these two magnificent red-rock formations.

Continuing on down the highway a couple of miles more will bring you within easy sight of the Catholic Chapel of the Holy Cross over to the right, nestled under the "saddle" of the big range of red mountains there across the field. In a little bit the Chapel will look very large to you, but right now it's quite a tiny thing nestled there in front of the huge and richly colored mountain range.

Furt her on less than a mile or so will bring you to the turn-off dirt road that takes you right to the interesting Catholic Chapel that has been visited by many thousands of people since being built only a short time ago. Turn right and go down the red-colored road a half mile or so and you'll be right underneath the Chapel.

If you're there during visiting hours (from ro A.M. to 4 P.M. dai ly) , then by all means continue on the road which winds up to the Chapel, park your car in the parking area there and go inside. It's quite an experience, no matter what your faith.

And now, after you've visited the Chapel and while you're driving down the dirt road back to the black-top highway again, I'd like to point out a very special kind of Sedona "scenery" that is a real favorite of mine. It was along this very road that I stopped and noticed a very interesting cloud formation one sparkling blue-sky day. This particular clumping of clouds made me think of a mouse leap-frogging over a mountain, and is only one of the many comic-and sometimes quite "cosmic" formations that are constantly appearing in the Sedona skies. I just wanted to mention this in the event that you too may be a Cloud Lover, and to alert you to the possibilities.

Finally, the main part of this tour almost over now, continue on down the black-top highway again for a

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little over o.8 mile to the turn-off road that leads to the Chavez Crossing Camp Grounds. This is another public picnic and camping area that you may or may not want to make use of (it's not nearly as scenic as the Red Rock Crossing area, yet it's quite lovely in its own right-and it's conveniently close to town) . It's easy to go right on by this little side dirt road that hairpins back a half mile or less down to the creek-side camping area, so look sharp if you decide to make the detour.

And after you come back from this side excursionor whether you decide to go straight on-it's another r.7 miles on down the black-top highway to where you turn to the left and go over the bridge crossing Oak Creek back towards Sedona. I don't usually recommend it at this time-because you should be pretty weary by nowbut instead of going left over the bridge, you can go straight ahead and on up the very scenic Schnebly Hill Tour (which I'll tell you all about in just a moment).

It's best, though, if you leave Schnebly Hill-which really makes for a special tour of its own-until the next morning, and cross the bridge and head back to Sedona for now (see map).

I'll bet you're tired!

Up S chnebly Hill Actually, the trip up Schnebly Hill-and by the way, this so-called "hill" rises up to almost 7,000 feet in height -is best made in the morning, when the sun is at your back and you can most enjoyably see and examine the vast panoramas of landscape that will be exposed. Also, there's so much to see on this round trip of about ten miles, that it's more pleasantly done when you're rested and fresh again.

Start off from in front of the Sedona post office once more, and go o. 3 mile down-south on-89-A to the turnoff road going left ( the same one you ended your tour on yesterday). Then go another o. 3 mile to the bridge crossing Oak Creek and turn left heading up the mountain. The first mile will be nice and asphalt-smooth, and then it turns into quite a bumpy road-more so than any you've likely been on so far here in Sedona. But keep going, for it's well worth it. In fact, the bumps in the road might well slow you down a bit-I hope so anywayso that you can more truly have time to discover many of the uniquely eroded rock formations that you'll see all along the mountainous way. It's exactly 4. 7 miles from the bridge below, where you crossed over Oak Creek, up to the main Lookout Point on Schnebly Hill.

On the winding and twisting way up you'll see huge and impressively colorful mountains of red rock, curiously and fantastically shaped and formed. Sometimes you may get the impression, as I so often do, that giant fingers must have had their hand in molding these sculptured red sandstone formations . . . way back when it was still in a semimolten state. Then, as you drive up higher into the mountain, hairpin turns will often have you facing so that you can see Sedona nestling emeraldlike far below, sliding further and further away from you.

After you have traveled about three-and-a-half miles up from the bridge below, start looking for the "MerryGo-Round" rock formation up ahead and still above you.

It's off by itself amidst the green of the right-side mountain-to the right of the long range of red-rock mountains that you've been paralleling on your way up Schnebly-and is distinguished by being solidly red ex-

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cept for dots of green from the many evergreen trees growing on it, and it has a layer of whitish-colored li111estone roe!? going around its 111iddle (looking for all the world like a gigantic "belt" encircling the huge rock).

By the time you've traveled a bit over four miles or so, you'll see the "Merry-Go-Round" formation for sure, this time off to the left of the road you're on. Keep on going a little way and you'll soon pass over a little "bridge"-it's more of a road-level cement culvert-crossing, actually-and about a tenth of a mile further on past this little bridge you'll see a short pull-off parking space to the left. Park your car there . . . right behind the "Merrv-Go-Round."

Now to start with, if you do nothing else here, w::lk the hundred or two hundred yards up the little h;:ilfhidden trail to the Lookout Point on top of the formation. From here you can enjoy the breath-taking panoramic view over Sedona which is now only a tiny speck below. And that's Verde Valley spreading southwest of Sedona, and Mingus Mountain far off in the hazy distance. In the immediate foreground, just below the "Merry-Go-Round," you'll see a top-side view of the weirdly spectacular red-rock mountains that you just passed a few minutes ago on your trip up Schnebly Hill.

And, for the photographer especially, there's a wonderful old tree up there that's just perfect for "framing" the picture that you'll surely want to take.

Then, after you've oh'd and ah'd over the spectacular scenery far below, look down for some more spectacular scenery right around you, there on the varicolored "Merry-Go-Round" formation itself.

Like Bell Rock, this is another easily climbed mountainous rock formation that is well worth your personal exploration. Go down the backside of the sometimes rather steep rock ( toward where you parked your car), and then swing around the "belt" of the formation in a

clockwise direction. Soon you'll come to a wide she lflike plateau of land and rock where you' ll discover easy walking on the old ( and no longer used) Schnebly Hill road portion that's still there. And be sure to look over the edge now and then, to examine the layer of white rock just under your feet. You'll find a number of weatherworn tunnel-like holes large enough to actually walk through, if you should be so inclined ... and extremely fascinating to examine. Further on you'll even see some weatherworn and long-forgotten old picnic tables along the old road ... and just all sorts of interesting sights well worth the seeing. Finally, after going completely around the "Merry-Go-Round," you'll be back at your car and ready to go back down the mountain again.

Actually, for those of you who are really in the mood for driving right now, you can continue on up Schnebly-and the mad really gets bumpy at the top, and for quite a way--:md take the "side trip" to Flagstaff and past two or three interesting lakes. But, as this involves about fifty miles or so of extra traveling (including coming back to Sedona via 89-A through Oak Creek Canyon), I believe that you'll be better off going right back down Schnebly Hill again. Indeed, it's more fun going doru.:n than up, I think.

This ls Only the Beginning Now I hope that I haven't given you the impression that this is all there is to see on your "Grand Tour of Sedona Red Rock Country," though it is and it isn't.

You can spend a day or so here, and make the tour hurryup-like in the fashion it was presented here. Or you can spend weeks just going back over various portions of the tour that have struck your fancy, further exploring them. You can visit any bit of scenery in Sedona dozens of times, and each time find something different, something new and fascinating ... never-endingly.

Grand view of S edona fro111 1Vlerry-Go-Round Lookout Point

Pottery Instructor

Charles Loloma

Sculptor N assan (rear) and student

PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR

· g class

very once in a while nature or a universal intelligence, if you will, hits the jackpot. In the Summer Art Center at Sedona she has come up with an unbeatable combination of an inspirational scenic backdrop, a dedicated faculty and a zea lous student body from all wa lks of life. \Ve all know that the arts, including music, have always provided man with a broad common denominator.

When the emp hasis is placed on man's creative talents all other distinctions vanish. He is evaluated so lely on achievement. The competitive world of materialism is left to its own devices.

Th is is the pattern at Sedona.

Nassan an

d life drawin

d d Friday morning critique Dr. Harry Woo an PAG r,

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195 9

The idea of the art school germinated in 1956 during a conversation between Dr. Harry Wood of Tempe, Arizona, and Nassan Abiskhairoun, an Egyptian-born sculptor. They talked of art and its importance in a growing America. They both loved Sedona and agreed it would make a perfect setting for an art school which they hope will eventually be international in scope and reputation. An ambitious concept, but well within the realm of possibility in years to come. Nassan was to teach sculpture, Dr. Wood, painting and they enlisted Charles and Otelie Loloma, Hopi Indians, to teach pottery and jewelry. This multi-talented faculty formed the nucleus of the school solidly joined together in a resolute purpose.

T he next step was to get some backing. Dr. Wood is head of the Art Department of Arizona State University at Tempe, so it seemed logical to talk to Dr. Roy Rice, Director of Summer Sessions at the same college.

Dr. Rice was impressed with the idea. After due consideration he gave his consent and that was it-the first summer session located off campus. Action was immediate. The first session was scheduled for the summer of 1956. College credits are given for the full five-week term.

The choice of Sedona has proved to be a good one.

At an altitude of 4,300 feet the summers are cool and refreshing. Sedona is located at the entrance to Oak Creek Canyon. A short drive in any direction provides a wide gamut of subject matter. The ghost town of Jerome and Montezuma Castle are to the south. Flagstaff, with lofty mountains, pine and aspen, is a short distance to the north.

Sedona itself provides desert cactus and the flowing stream of Oak Creek which delights the eve of all art enthusiasts. Then of course there are those 'fabulous red rocks eroded into silhouettes, fantastic in shape. Harry Wood referred to them as "overwhelming Olympian forms." "Getting them on canvas was like trying to seat a friendly herd of visiting elephants around a modest dinner table."

If a football team is no better than its coach, an art school is no better than the inspiration provided by its faculty. The staff at Sedona leaves little to be desired.

Dr. Harry Wood is the Director and organizational head of the Center. His biography is too long to re late here. He paints portraits, landscapes, murals and abstracts; is a world traveler, journalist and lecturer. Santayana, Yehudi Menuhin and Adlai Stevenson are but a few who have posed for him. He has recently been elected president of the Pacific Arts association. Perhaps more important is his consuming desire to make artists out of people and people out of artists. He feels that in close proximity to nature, m an can find his true self; plumb hidden and unexplored depths and allo,v the means of expression to take their own course-from literal realism to the highly abstract. We all hide a great deal from ourselves and the world at large. Strangely enough many of these interesting facets are brought to light by giving uninhibited vent to our artistic talents.

Nassan, who teaches sculpture, sees hidden beauty in each piece of wood and stone. A recognition of the latent beauty in all material is his forte. People can't be taught to be artists, but they can be provided with an atmosphere in which art may flourish. His emphasis is on understanding the oneness of all life and the message of love and beauty contained in inanimate objects and

!

At Montezuma Castle material. A knowledge of the use of tools can be quickly imparted to the student, but what happens from then on rests solely on the shoulders of those who take them in hand. This desire to see, feel and understand nature's message is a great potential force in all mankind.

Nassan who also teaches a life drawing class has had an interesting background and a diversity of experience.

Born in Asuit, Egypt, he graduated with distinction from the Royal College of Fine Arts. He was commissioned by the Egyptian royal family to do sculpture to decorate the palace. He taught art for nine years in Cairo and then came to this country an d graduated with high honors from the Boston Museum of Fine Arts School in 1949. His introduction to Sedona came several years ago when he accepted the post of art instructor at the Verde Va ll ey School.

Charles Loloma and his wife, Otelie, teach the various methods of ceramics which include coil, slab and wheel-thrown methods. Charles also teaches silver-smithi ng, a fa ncy name for making jewe lry. Charles is a graduate from the School of American Craftsmen, Alfred U niversity, A lfred, New York, and owner of a silver and ceramic shop in Scottsdale, Arizona. He has ,von many awards for his work disp layed at the Arizona State Fair.

Both Charles and Otelie believe in a close personal relationshi p between teacher and student. They love to sit around and discuss the problems of art in a light, good-natured way. First they teach technique in terms of using a potter's wheel or applying a glaze in the kiln.

But t hen the student quickly is on his own and develops into an indi vidual craftsman. Charles is hungry for the

sensitive worker who is interested in evolving into a skilled artisan appreciative of quality's importance. This husband and wife make an excellent team. They try hard to inspire their students. Charles does well with some while Orelie reaches others. The net result is usually successful. ' The Lolomas spend the balance of their summers high on the Hopi mesa country of their birth. In a Hopi village, art forms are part of their daily lives. A piece of pottery is made because they have a use for it; that it may also delight the eye is a necessary addition to its functional value.

The student body consists of about forty-five diligent art enthusiasts of all ages and from many sections of the country. They represent a diversity of color and creed and get along beautifully together. Dr. Wood feels that because of their intense interest, more is accomplished in this five-week session than a full semester under normal college conditions. Different groups concentrate on their chosen form of expression. You may attend as many classes as will fit into what is often a twelve-hour day. You may plunge your hands into the oGze of potter's clay and then dash off to join the painters on a field trip.

Each Friday morning Dr. Wood holds a critique, an idea which originated in the French art schools. It is attended by all of the students interested in painting. The week's most recently completed canvases are on display and each one comes in for discussion. Not only do you hear what Dr. Wood thinks of your work, but you also get a chance to know his reactions to the other paintings.

The critique is popular with the students as well as with

M rs. E. . V ¡ Staude teaching scubpture

many people who live in Sedona. Dr. Wood has a manner of criticism which brings his years of knowledge and experience into play. His remarks are kind, helpful and usually witty.

The social aspects of the five weeks in Sedona are both pleasant and informative. Each evening guest speakers are invited to talk informally. These evenings are also open to the public who are showing a growing interest in the art center which has sprung up in their midst. The 19 58 season included the presentation of a wide range of subjects including the history of printing and a background study of the ancient art of rock painting. Robert Church, Director of the museum of the University of Arizona, came up from Tucson one evening. He brought some of the best paintings from their collection which formed the basis of an interesting lecture.

At another evening get-together Jimmy Ernst, son of the internationally famous surrealist Max Ernst, gave a highly entertaining talk. Jimmy, w ho teaches art at Brooklyn College during the school year, was spending the summer at his father's home in Sedona. It was his first exposure to the brilliant hues of the towering red rocks and he had a lot to say about the difficulties of their literal portrayal on the flat surfaces of an artist's canvas.

The last days of the session witness a pleasant "summing up." The best examples of student accomplishment in all mediums are exhibited in the auditorium of the Sedona schoolhouse. The doors are open to the public for this final get-together. Some of the students are wives of local ranchers who welcome the opportunity of seeing "what the little woman has been up to." Some just shake

their heads and take off for the hills while others develop a new respect for the distaff side of the family.

The objets d'art on display all carry a price tag.

An astute buyer with a discerning eye may pick up a masterpiece for a song. Who knows? One of these students may be the Picasso or Renoir of tomorrow.

The year 1959 marks only the fourth year in the life of an art school which hopes for a long and vigorous future. It has made an excellent beginning. Personall y I was greatly impressed by the atmosphere of the sc ho ol.

Mix a heterogenous faculty with an equally heterogenous student body dedicated in a single purpose and the results can be stimulating for all concerned . Thrmv in the scenic beauty of one of Arizona's most attractive locales and success seems guaranteed.

No previous experience in the art world is necessary.

If the urge to create lies within you, bring it to Sedona and give it a chance to flower. (For more information write to Cecil Lockhart-Smith, Sedona, Arizona.)

Enrollment fees are modest. Reasonable lodging is available and there are a multitude of eating places w hich furnish sustenance or better at a moderate cost.

Please excuse any undue enthusiasm which may filter through the words of this writer. I merely feel that this is a fine little organization that interested people should know something about. Its appeal is broad in scope. It brings people together on friendly terms and ¡w ith a common objective. We can't have too much of that sort of thing in our country. Doubtless we need to know more about ourselves before we make that big jump into outer space. The field of art can open some vistas which may both surprise and gratify.

I

by JIM KJELGAARD /J,

he man who stood on the rock and cast an expert fly into the deep pool '".: • ..-../:;,·:1 ~~ we were fishing could be spotted ~'f•'fl ~· • ,; ,; ·,. ·: :;: '.,<;.~ at first glance as a typical westerner. :. ~ . t~-:* ~. ., ,,w.•,* ..,.•.~ ... . r·'•1 ;,·:·:· •• •;•,.,: ,J,~. He wore a sombrero, faded shirt, ·* ·~·*·..,,:::;' ~..... '°*_'\-c*· *~ l>t ,/ bl . an d cow b oy b oots. Wh en ..*•.:; ue 1ev1s, ·~ ,L' · he arrived, his greeting was a solemn nod. Presently he caught and creeled a trout and came wading to our side of the pool. His western taciturnity melted.

"How are you doing?"

"Got a few. How are you doing?"

"Just filled my limit," he sighed happily. He looked at the creek. "Never," he declared, "have so many fishermen owed so much to so few miles of trout water! Wish there was something like it in Ohio."

"Oh," we remembered suddenly that clothes can make the man, "you from Ohio?"

"Yup, but I've been here two weeks and wish I could stay another twenty. It's a great creek."

The man was speaking of Oak Creek, the crazy, mixed-up little rill that courses down Arizona's justly famed Oak Creek Canyon. Its fewer than twenty miles of good trout water-towards its lower reaches it's too warm for trout-are probably one of the most heavily fished twenty miles in the nation. But Oak Creek always offers something for everybody.

A reasonably good trout fisherman, one who wants to work and who knows what he's doing, can catch a

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limit of ten trout almost any day he cares to fish it. Some day;;, anybody with a hook and line, and almost any sort of bait, can take trout there.

It's only fair to say that a lot of Arizonans wouldn't fish it under any circumstances. But it's also fair to say that a lot of Arizonans are rugged individualists who wouldn't do anything as long as somebody else was doing it, and this type don't think they've been fishing unless they've ridden a horse or walked at least nineteen miles beyond the last place where they can take a car. But for every angler who holds Oak Creek up to scorn, a thousand love it. They also visit it at every opportunity, and thence the saying that anyone who goes to Oak Creek had better take his own rock to stand on. It's never quite that bad, though one does bump elbows. The happy part about this is that one always seems to bump with the nicest people.

Once, after striving for and finally reaching a wilderness creek, we not only found a party there ahead of us but found them more than slightly miffed because we'd dared trespass. They wanted the whole stream, all two hundred miles of it, to themselves.

Taking two women to fish from a rock that juts into Oak Creek, we found the place occupied by two men anglers. They stood aside, made no attempt to interfere, and applauded enthusiastically when the ladies caught trout which they themselves might have had.

Any of the tourists who travel U.S. 66 might visit Oak Creek Canyon, and it's definitely worth a visit,

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merely by turning south where 66 and 89A split in Flagstaff. At the very most, forty-five minutes' drive would bring them to what some have called "Arizona's Grandest Canyon." Enclosed by high bluffs and spires, Oak Creek Canyon has the color of Bryce and the grandeur of Zion.

And there is the additional bonus of the creek.

Beginning soon after one has steered his car around the hairpin curves that bring him into the canyon, the creek is fed by mountain springs and cold enough so that one does not care to swim in any of the upper pools for more than a few minutes at a time. However, the temperature is ideal for trout.

And every weekend in tourist season produces the Great Trout Derby.

Carrying thousands of trout, the truck from Arizona's Page Springs Hatchery travels up the canyon.

Buckets of fish from seven to thirteen inches long are dumped into every pool. To be ready for the weekend rush of vacationists, the trout are usually planted on Friday.

Fishermen of all descriptions, from those who are almost too young to hold a pole to those who are almost too old, and everything in between, swarm out for the harvest. The baits used are seldom, if ever, matched on any other creek.

One teen-ager cut a strip from a red inner tube, stiffened it with shellac, and took a limit of trout on it.

An Indian youngster wadded stale bread into small chunks, moulded them onto his hook, and caught ten trout in fifteen minutes. Strips of liver and dough balls are heavily favored. Bits of canned shrimp are used.

Salmon eggs are a great favorite.

In addition, worms, crickets, grasshoppers, and all the standard spinners, spoons, and flies, will be found in use. The rods embrace everything from those cut from a willow thicket near the creek to hundred and fifty dollar fly rods. There are at least two fishermen, and often five or six, in every pool. On any weekend during the season, any pool is fished a minimum of seventy-five times.

Nearly everyone catches trout, though of course not everyone takes a limit. However, not everybody wants it. One Phoenix resident makes the trip every year and stays a week to enjoy the superb scenery. He must catch two trout, both of which he throws back. Another fisherman who's miserable unless he's casting a dry fly catches t rout fast and furiously when they're rising to flies, but he uses barbless hooks and returns his fish to the water as fast as he takes them. Still others catch four or five, just enough for a modest trout fry.

It is suspected by many Oak Creek anglers that the Page Springs Hatchery employs one specialist whose only job is to give the trout a college education.

At any rate, their hooks temptingly laden with the bait of their choice, many anglers have gazed into Oak Creek's crystal-clear pools, found them swarming with fat trout, and cast into this angler's dream come true.

If the trout have been recently planted, and regardless of the bait used, the chances are that at least six will rush it and one will get it. The whole proceeding is witnessed by the angler, and when the trout has the bait in its mouth, he has only to set the hook and creel a nice fish . Or at least, that's what he thinks. The chances are even that the only thing he'll retrieve is a stripped hook

while the fish retains the bait.

Oak Creek trout are wonderfully talented bait stealers. Four hours after they're planted it's practically impossible to catch one that isn't bulging with a couple of dozen assofred salmon eggs, angle worms, chunks of liver, or some of the numerous other tidbits that are offered to them. But some fishermen won't stand for this sort of thing.

One, seeing a couple of dozen trout in a pool, decided that he just had to have a foot-long beauty, the biggest fish in the pool. He cast. The beauty obliged by taking the bait. The angler retrieved a stripped hook and cast again. A second time he lost his bait. Three hours and nineteen stripped hooks later, he finally landed his prize and went home happy.

By Monday morning, most of the anglers have departed. So have all the trout that will strike at anything at all every time it's offered to them. But there are plenty left, and after two days of fishing they've learned to be wary. The angler who takes these fish has to be reasonably skillful, for Oak Creek is unique. Anybody who can bait a hook can take trout there.

But it also challenges the best master-fishermen have to offer.

Some of the trout, probably those that combine their share of good luck with natural sagacity, escape the angling rush. The longer they escape, the more sagacious they become. To make a poor pun, they aren't suckers for crudely cast salmon eggs or dough balls.

There are big-perhaps even trophy-trout in the creek and there breathe very few confirmed Oak Creek anglers with souls so dead that they don't know where at least one of these big fish abide and who have a deathless ambition to catch it.

One fisherman has been trying for three years to catch a big trout that lives in one of the most beautiful pools any angler ever saw. Fed by purling riffles, it deepens towards the center, turns shallow at the foot, and pours itself into more riffles.

The big trout, supposedly, spends most of his time under an old, water-soaked tree that floated into the pool and came to rest on the bottom. He's just a shade smaller than the whale that swallowed Jonah and, when it comes to detecting fish hooks, just a shade smarter than Einstein. The angler, who'd scorn to take recently planted trout, happily drives all the way from Phoenix for another round with this one. He had him on once, but the trout wrapped his line around the sunken tree and broke it.

Another big trout has its nighttime abode in a pool so crystal-clear that every pebble on its floor can be counted. His daytime lair is a deep-shadowed neck of water that laps back into a rift. The angler whose special pet he is discovered him when he cast a spinner into that rift. He did not catch the trout, but he saw him follow the spinner into clear water. Since that time, the trout has followed the spinner on six different occasions. One of these days, the angler hopes, he 'll take it.

Every year some big trout are taken, along with a host of smaller ones. If all the anglers who have found such healthful happiness in catching them were laid end to end - - They'd get up at once and take the shortest possible route back to Oak Creek.

TO TOUCH A STO,F. To touch a stone, to touch it with fullness of sense, W ith the knowing mind ali\·c in the finger tips, Is to go deep hack where all beginnings were, To feel the flames and the floods that wrought ·the earth, And know this hand is one with all that was.

Touching a stone declares onescl( a part Of all the \·.ast upsurgin;;s of the world, The long ad\· ancc from formlessness to form, And nature's nmte rcso!Ye to be aware.

The essence of this stone is life's first home; Herc we arc housed a while with hird and tree.

Alone? There is no one of us alone In a world where a lil'ing hand may tmleh a stone.

- ROI ,.\NU

F NGLISH HARTLEY

OLD ARTIST Old artist Springtime brushes tangerine Across this ne utral desert winter-scene; He adds pale purple, Red and lazuli To paint wild phlox, tall cliffs against the sky.

Lays bright cerise where sun lies warm and mellm\· Then adds the pain \·cnlt:'s glowing yellow.

Old artist Spring·time Takes a little nap His hright-hucd blanket warm across his lap.

- .l \1 A UDE RUBIN

GARDEN SPIDERS II\: THE NIGHT Spiders arc Summer's engineers Building lac y bridges Stressed to hear the airy weight Of flies and moths and 111idges.

Sw ift, silent silk suspensions That span the deep, black night Through whose shadowed depths meanders A ri\·er of moonlight.

- LLIZAllETH-ELI.EN LONG

BLESSl·'. D ARE TI-IE BLIND

1-1 is step w,1s firm, His step was hlyrhc As he strode along With unscei111-r eyes.

YOURS SINCERELY L O ST CA VE: . . . Yo ur Februar y issue of ARIZONA HrGII \\'A YS co ntained ma ny fin e pictures and ma n y fa miliar scenes. I note in parti c ul ar "A Lazy D ay on Syca more Cree k." 1\I y brot her A. G. Wood, w ho now li Yes in Prescott, Ar izo na, ow ned t he ra nc h at the mo uth o f Sycamor e Cre ek for many years (this was about fifty years ago). I use d to frequent ly \·isit him and we \\·o uld hunt and fish.

I recaJI th at on one o f our quail hunting trips, we tur ned left in to a small side-can yon on th e V crde abo ut a mile u p from th e mou t h of t he Syca more . A short distance from the Ve rde we noti ced a rath er inconspi cuous ca \·e ope ning on th e left (going up ). W e decid ed to look into the cave so parked ou r gu ns and dog at th e entrance.

The ca,·e quickl y became qu ite a cavern and we we nt in abo ut one quarter mile. W e ca me to a place w here it branc hed out in th ree or fo ur directions, w ith immense slabs of rock all m·er t he flo o r of th e caYe, appare ntl y fa ll en fro m th e ro o f of th e cave.

We couldn't tell ho w hi g h th e roof of the ca \·e was and our ca ndles were about to burn out and as it looked like a bad place to get lost in,. we we nt back o utside. I ne ver saw th e c 1\·e again and haYc ne\·e r he ard it mention ed m an y thin g w ritte n about the co untry .

W. i\ l. \Nooe!

E nc initas, Californi a • Mr. TV ood's cr1'7.:e is anot/.,er fasc iw,;ing mystery in a land fu ll o f mysteries.

OF W EST E R N WRITE RS: . . . A RIZON A HIGHWA YS is always a delig htful master piece, but I w ant to say , and ask you to say to C harl ey l\ iehuis w hen you see him, th at he d id a to phand job in the fishin g stor y, February iss ue, and that \ Vestern Writers of Am erica, Inc ., is mi g hty proud th at he is one of our members.

Ir is part of my bo unden duty as pres ident of W W A to recommend , in all my correspon de nce, our an n ual WW A antho logies of best W estern stori es, generall y a\·ail acble in public libraries and bookstores. The titl es of the enti re seri es to d ate are: TVild S treets (T ales of Frontie r Tow ns), H ound D ogs

and O t/Jers and TVild H orse R oundup (mostly for boys) , Bad 1\llen and G ood, H olsters and H eroes, Tbe Fall R oundup, Branded vVest, H oof T rails and TV agon Tracks. There w ill be two more th is year : A S addle bag o f T ales (mostly for boys) and an adult collection no r ye t titl ed .

It may be of interest to you to know that we ha\·e several member s among A ri zona w riters, some of w hose stories are in th ese rnrious anth olog ies, an d th at Jim Kj elgaa rd of Phoenix edited two of th e boys' books.

Our mo nthl y WWA R oundup is published in Arizo na, at Tucso n, und er th e edi torship of \'e teran wester n novelist L eslie E rn enwein, w ith Nelson C . N ye as ad \·errising manager. O t her Arizona memb ers incl ude D. S. H alacy, Jr. of G lendale, G ordon C. Bald w in of Tucson, Jose ph C had w ick of Tucson, W alt Co burn of Tucson, Ethel A .

Ho pkin s of Tucson, H. A. M einze r of Tucson, J o hn Myers M yers, form erly of T empe, Jo hn Prescott of Phoe ni x, w ith R oscoe G. Willson of Ph oeni x abo ut to become a memb er.

S. Omar Barker , President W estern Writers of A meri ca, Tnc .

Las Vegas, New Me xico • TVe /.,rnrtily reco111711end books listed by M r. Rarker . A nd congratulations to all me>iibers of TV W A f or a job ·well d one.

FTSHT NG IN ARIZONA: . . . Your Februar y ma gazine was an eyeopener to me. Coming fr om w hat I consider th e best fishing stare in the Union, I was afr aid th at w hen I go to A ri zona for a va cation I'd have to leave my rods and reels.

Your fi shin g in w inter so und s exciting. No matter ho w much a person likes to go fis hin g, fishin g through ice in 10-below w eath er gets a little bit tiresome.

W yatt A . Sommer Milwa ukee, Wisconsin • TVe agr ee vVisconsin is a great state for t/.,e fisberman. But wben your beautiful la k es are fro::.en and you get tired of fisbing t lnougl., t/Je ice in 10- belo·w weat/.,er, just co711e out our w ay. vVe prom ise you plenty o f fis/.iing and plenty of m n s/Jine. TV/Jo could ask f or nzore?

A \\·ondrous pair, His dog and he; Only he didn 't know ll is dog couldn't sec.

-AK AKVIK

GRASS How many sharp green swords beneath the sod A wait unsheathing, no one knows hut God, But when Old Earth has turn ed their hour near, Up they 11111st thrust, each blade and spear, To pierce whatever clod may lie between Them and the light. So e\'ery spring the green And undefeated army of the earth Pro\·cs its nndying rnlor- ,md its worth!

-S.

OMAR B ARKER

TO"TO LAKE .

Like a Lost holt of hlue Calico the lake lies, Old, sun-streaked and smudg·cd with shadows Of clouds.

-AllELAIPE COK ER

B AC K COV E R "RO A D THRO U GH UPPER O AK CREEK CANYON " BY BOB BR ADSH A W. 5x7 Cro w n G r aphic camera; E ktachrom e; f.8 at 1 / 50th sec .; Ekrar lens; Jul y ; ave rage ligh t, mid-d ay; G E mere r lig ht rnlu c of 15; ASA ratin g 12 . The photograph was taken in U pper O ak Cree k Can y on a half mile south of Chi pmunk L o dge . The ca n yon narro ws at th e upper end . H erc the \·egctation is lush and hi g h and stee p can yo n wa lls soa r loftil y abm·e t he ro ad on both sides. The motorist on thi s r oad catches glimpses of oak ever y now and th en w here th e re are openings in th e g ree ner y beside th e road, Alte rnate U .S. 80.

OPPOSIT E P AG .F. "F RO G HOLLOW- O A K C RLU(" BY DON D E M U T H . R olleiflex ; D ay lig ht .Ektachrome; f. 10 at , / 50th sec.; Zei ss T cssar lens; Jun e; sunn y aft ernoon , some clouds; D\N -48 15 ; ASA ra tin g 12 . The scene is at Frog Hollow in O ak Creek just a little way do w nstrea m from th e c rossing bcrn·ee n Sedona and Schn ebl y Hill. The camera w as hand-h eld just abou t eig hrec n inch es off th e w ater in mid-strea m. Frog Hollo w is one of th e popular swimmin g holes on popular Oak Creek. vVhen genrl c su mm er takes o ve r the area, youn gsters, spendin g th e ir summ e r \'a cario ns with th eir famili es in th e Sedon a-Oak Creek countr y, find the cool im·imtio n of fro g Hollo w irresisribl c.