Page 1


CONT Features 20

The Martin Racing Special

Event

70

Unorthodox Origins Craig Bugajski’s ’55 Chevy 210

How a Prewar Model A Lakester Became America’s Most Beautiful Roadster

82

Big Boss ’Liner

42

David Walsh’s ’50 Ford Starliner

Rodger Vagg’s ’32 Ford Coupe

Dick Flint’s Other Model A

The Expatriate

56

Made Man

28

2018 Grand National Roadster Show

Seven Decades of America’s Most Beautiful Roadster ... and More

96

Dick Flint’s ’28 Ford Coupe

Ty Reoh’s ’66 Lincoln Continental

Tech 48

Installing Holley’s New LS Accessory System Simplifying the Serpentine System

62

Reap What You Sew

Do Your Own Upholstery, Part 1: How to Thread an Industrial Sewing Machine

76

On a Roll

What You Need to Know When Selecting Wheels and Tires

STREET RODDER (ISSN 0277-5735), July 2018, Vol. 47, No. 7, is published monthly by TEN: Publishing Media, LLC, 1212 Avenue of the Americas, 18th Floor, New York, NY 10036. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing oices. Copyright ©2018 by TEN: Publishing Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. Printed in the USA. SUBSCRIPTIONS U.S. and U.S. possessions $29.95 for 12 issues. Canadian add $12.00 postage and all other countries add $24.00 (for surface mail postage). Payment in advance, U.S. funds only. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 707.4.12.5); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: send address corrections to STREET RODDER, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235.

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TENTS JULY 2018 VOL. 47 NO. 7

Departments

08

On the Road

10

For Starters

14

Window Shopper

16

Street Corner

17

OnDemand

102

Fix’Ems

104

Street Shaker

106

Early Iron

108

Shop Manual

130

Professor Hammer

88

A Classy Chassis For Our Traditional Truck

Part II: The 2018 United Pacific/STREET RODDER Road Tour ’32 Ford Pickup Presented by Ford Performance Parts

•On the Cover: Tim Sutton captured the 2018 America’s Most Beautiful Roadster–winning Martin Special ’31 Model A roadster in our L.A. studio immediately following the 69th Annual GNRS—both of which you’ll find plenty pages dedicated to in this month’s issue. •Table of Contents: Hot Rods & Hobbies in Signal Hill, CA, took on the task of creating the award-winning Ford roadster owned by Dave Martin—and for all intents and purposes, achieved what they set out to accomplish … and then some. Photography by Tim Sutton. STREET RODDER ◆ JULY 2018

5


ON THE

ROAD By Jerry Dixey

Speedway Motors Tour to the Street Rod Nationals x I have spent the last 22 years crisscrossing our beautiful country and have been fortunate enough to visit some amazing places over the years. Of course I have my favorites. I enjoy everything that goes along with our hobby, from the cars to the vintage accessories and artifacts that tell the story of rodding. We have visited many fantastic auto museums in our Road Tour travels. The one that really stands out for its size, quality, and scope is the Smith Collection of American Speed, or as it is now known, the Speedway Motors Museum of American Speed. I was very fortunate to meet Bill and Joyce Smith many years ago. Bill and I shared a love of pedal cars and cool vintage hot rod items. Bill and Joyce’s passion built

Q We had a great trip to Louisville last year on the Speedway Motors Road Tour. We have another fun week planned as we travel from Lincoln, NE, to the NSRA Street Rod Nationals.

2017 Cruisin’ the Coast Road Tour Web Links: • http://bit.ly/2FPtSgo • http://bit.ly/2FPudQc •http://bit.ly/2IAy2Xe • http://bit.ly/2u9nBa3 8

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one of the largest speed shop warehouses in the world and it also built the museum that is the mecca for so many of us enthusiasts. The Smiths’ passion has carried onto their sons and the team at Speedway Motors. We are all very lucky to be able to enjoy the fruit of their hard work and dedication to our hobby. The Speedway Motors Road Tour will kick of in Lincoln, Nebraska, on Friday, July 27, with a get-together with The Rebels Auto Club and local rodders. On Saturday morning we will be special guests at Cars and Cofee at Speedway Motors. We will also get a special look at the incredible Speedway Motors Museum of American Speed. On Saturday afternoon we will drive west to Kearney, Nebraska, where we will visit the amazing Great Platte River Road Archway Monument. We will also visit the huge Classic Car Collection in Kearney. On Sunday we will set our sights on the town of Peculiar, Missouri, just outside Kansas City. We will be special guests at Pete and Jakes Hot Rod Parts and spend the evening with hot rod legend Jerry Slover and

his family. On Monday morning we are going to be visiting the Auto World Car Collection in Fulton, Missouri. We will spend Monday evening in the historic town of St. Charles, Missouri, on the banks of the Missouri River. On Tuesday we will visit Old Dog Street Rods near St Louis. On Tuesday afternoon we will make a stop at Mike Linning’s Restaurant to take part in their annual Street Rod Nationals Cruise. We will arrive in Louisville, Kentucky, on Tuesday evening. On Wednesday a number of the Speedway Motors Road Tour participants will be part of the annual NSRA Kick-Of Parade to downtown Louisville. All weekend, starting on Thursday, we will have special parking and a hospitality tent during the NSRA Street Rod Nationals at the Kentucky State Fairgrounds. It is going to be another great Speedway Motors Road Tour to Louisville. Go to streetrodder.com to register. Call the Road Tour Hotline at (800) 664-1362 with any questions.


FOR

STARTERS We are driving our hot rods but now we drive them harder! xOur hobby has its roots in “do-it-myself” attitude followed closely by driving the cars often and everywhere, and inally in some form of competition (paved road or of-road acceleration contests). It’s in our nature to tinker, and after tinkering to test our results … and then tinker some more. This is what led to the highly popular act of driving to far away sanctioned events. Driving to those events allowed us to crisscross the U.S. during the ’70s and ’80s, ending up at fairgrounds where we were hosted by the likes of the National Street Rod Association. Oftentimes I would ind myself going through the event grounds keeping tabs on how many “out of state” license plates I could ind. For starters, all of the following events ofer the latest craze at outdoor events … the autocross. But these events are more than an autocross. These events are part of a bigger picture … if you will. In some fashion or another all of them have a show ’n’ shine, vendors/ manufacturers rows, other hot rod–related interests, and all is going on (Goodguys AutoCross), simultaneously. But it’s the while the likes of the autocross that’s bringing NSRA have jumped in in a new refreshing with their version called atmosphere of enthusiasm the StreetKhana (AutoCross and a bit of excitement to NSRA Style), which brings our hot rod hobby. Clearly back memories of the the competitions have fun driving events from the but even the spectators early NSRA events. (Does (as we have noted) ill the anyone remember the bleachers and enjoy the Gymkhana or the Texas competition. Star?) To go along with Among the popular these street rod sanctioning sanctioning bodies bodies you have the likes known to all hot rodders of Holley Performance Goodguys has probably Products who have enjoyed been hosting the autocross a good deal of success with event the longest their LS Fest, now titled 10

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER

LS Fest East in Bowling Green, Kentucky, which has branched out and moved west to Las Vegas, and this event is titled the LS Fest West. And I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Optima (yes, the battery people) who hosts the Optima Ultimate Street Car Invitational held the Saturday after the SEMA Show in November. It is the result of a yearlong quest of seven events (Optima Search for the Ultimate

Street Car Schedule) providing an opportunity for competitors in diferent classes to earn an invitation to the yearly inale in Las Vegas. All the associations/ manufacturers host their events across the country, giving all hot rodders more than one chance to participate in the autocross fever that is beginning to get a grip on rodders. I ind these events particularly interesting in that it allows those wishing to actually compete and others who

enjoy the entertainment value to sit back in the bleachers and root for their favorite. But most of all it reminds me of the days when we used to build, drive, and compete with our hot rods. Today, while there are many who still drive, I don’t see the long-haul contingent from either coast visiting the other, nor do I see much in the way of the heartland of our country driving east or west. There is a fair share of trailers. (Remember back in the day you could have your window sticker pulled if you trailered your car to an event!) The last time I drove was with Steve Coonan (of Rodder’s Journal fame) in his '32 highboy roadster (sans top!). We drove to Louisville and I remember how much fun it was. I have a goodly number of crosscountry trips in a hot rod and every one is an experience unto itself. I guess it’s time for me to make one more crosscountry trip, and while I am at it try my hand at some autocross driving. It sure has breathed some excitement back into what had become a sedentary hobby.

Brian Brennan Network Director/Editor

Photography by Nick “The Lens” Licata

By Brian Brennan


PHOTOS: John Jackson


EDITORIAL Network Content Director Douglas Glad Network Director, Street Rod and Super Chevy Groups/Editor Brian Brennan, bbrennan@enthusiastnetwork.com Senior Managing Editor Sarah Gonzales Feature Editor Tim Bernsau tbernsau@enthusiastnetwork.com Tech Editor John Gilbert jgilbert@enthusiastnetwork.com Tech Editor Rob Fortier rfortier@enthusiastnetwork.com Contributing Tech Writer Ron Ceridono Contributing Writer, East Coast Chuck Vranas Contributors Rodney Bauman, Tommy Lee Byrd, Gerry Burger, Ron Covell, Jerry Dixey, Eric Geisert, Ken Gross, Robert McGaffin, Josh Mishler, Dale Moreau, Greg Sharp, Chris Shelton, Jeff Smith, Tim Sutton, Frank Wallic Contributing Artists Bob Hovorka, Jeff Norwell, George Trosley Senior Web Content Editor Ryan Whitehouse Web Content Editor David Hager DESIGN Design Director Markas Platt mplatt@enthusiastnetwork.com STREET ROD GROUP ON THE WEB streetrodder.com classictrucks.com Subscriber Services USA: (800) 777-1849; International: (386) 447-6385 streetrodder@emailcustomerservice.com STREET RODDER P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235 Please include name, address, and phone number on any inquiries. Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to IMEX Global Solutions, P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2. Occasionally, our subscriber list is made available to reputable firms offering goods and services we believe would be of interest to our readers. If you prefer to be excluded, please send your current address label and note requesting to be excluded from these promotions to TEN: Publishing Media, LLC, 831 S. Douglas St., El Segundo, CA 90245, Attn: Privacy Coordinator. ADVERTISING INFORMATION Call STREET RODDER Advertising Department at (949) 705-3100.

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• FIRST-TO-MARKET NEW ITEMS • EXTENSIVE DEVELOPMENT


WINDOW

SHOPPER By John Gilbert

xDouble Up Wilwood’s new swing mount tandem brake and clutch assembly simpliies installing a tandem outlet, single pushrod brake master cylinder in conjunction with a hydraulic clutch master cylinder in a forward position outside the irewall. It features a lightweight, aluminum frame with high strength reinforced I-beam–style forged pedal arms in either 6.25:1 or 7.00:1 ratios. The non-skid waled pedal pads can be laterally adjusted for driver preference or clearance, as necessary. Will it most tandem cylinders available with 3.25 horizontal bolt spacing. Pedal base has additional mount points for vertical mount 2.50-inch spacing tandem master cylinders using 5/16-18 studs (not supplied with pedal assembly).

xClearlight Miller Electric Manufacturing Company, a leading worldwide manufacturer of arc welding equipment, is expanding its ClearLight lens technology to all-digital welding helmets. ClearLight optimizes clarity for welding operators so they can produce better welds with less rework. “To achieve the perfect weld, operators need to be able to clearly see their work. ClearLight Lens Technology optimizes contrast and clarity in both welding and light states—so operators see natural color tones and get a crisp, high-deinition view of the workpiece,” Sam Harvey, product manager of welding safety and health, says. “This innovative helmet technology reduces eye fatigue, increases productivity, and improves performance.”

Wilwood Engineering (805) 388-1188 wilwood.com

Miller Electric Manufacturing Company (920) 734-9821 millerwelds.com

xRidePro-X RideTech of Jasper, Indiana, a leading designer and manufacturer of premium suspension components is proud to introduce the RidePro-X control system. Sophisticated pressure and height algorithms tune air spring rates for proper handling and ride quality. A sleek and stealthy threeposition Control Module plugs into your car or truck’s 12V power port (cigarette lighter) and talks to the ECM via RF. Other features of RidePro-X include “ride height on start” automatic lift and level feature, display and setup via smartphone app, bluetooth connectivity, and all-new LevelPRO height measuring sensors. As with everything from RideTech, this new RidePro-X control system promises to improve the driving experience.

xThreadlocker Since 1909 Permatex has been an acknowledged leader in the development of innovative new products and services for the automotive aftermarket. Permatex SEAL+LOCK Thread Compound resists solvents and common shop luids and is removable with hand tools. In addition to automotive uses, it is extremely versatile in garage and plumbing applications. Key applications include threaded freeze plugs, oil pressure sensors, threaded fuel injectors, coolant temperature sensors, A/C and hydraulic system connections, metal plumbing connections, and pipe plugs. Permatex SEAL+LOCK provides increased reliability and durability of repairs by ensuring sealed connections will not leak and locked ittings will not loosen.

RideTech (812) 481-4787 ridetech.com

Permatex (877) 376-2839 permatex.com

•The publishing of products in Window Shopper is not an endorsement of these items by the STREET RODDER staff or by TEN: Publishing Media, LLC. This material is as represented by the manufacturer only; these products have not necessarily been used or tested by us. —Editor. To electronically submit material for your product, email bbrennan@enthusiastnetwork.com. 14

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PROGRESSIVE.COM

1-800-PROGRESSIVE


STREET

CORNER By Tim Bernsau

Chassis Engineering Inc. Continues With Heidts •When Chassis Engineering Inc. founder Roy A. Lewis died in October, the company announced that it would be closing. It was sad news for customers of the company that had been supplying quality suspension parts to street rodders since it was founded in 1966 . Earlier this year, Heidts technical operations have Hot Rod and Muscle Car moved from West Branch, Parts announced that Iowa, to the Heidts facility they had acquired Chassis in Lake Zurich, Illinois, but Engineering Inc. and would will continue to operate retain the company’s name under its well-known and its 52-year legacy. name. Many CEI employees Manufacturing, sales, and have been retained to

produce its products. “Chassis Engineering Inc. is a great it for us and brings decades of experience serving the street and hot rod markets with their quality high-performance parts,” Heidts President and CEO Wallace Leyshon said. Visit Heidts Hot Rod and Muscle Car Parts at heidts.com.

More Fun For Tri-Five Chevys •Meet us at the 4th Annual Danchuk Tri-Five Nationals. STREET RODDER will be in Bowling Green, Kentucky, on August 9-11 for the world’s greatest Tri-Five–only event. The Tri-Five Nationals is open to ’55-’57 Chevy passenger cars, trucks, and Corvettes. This year it’s going to get greater with some changes and additions. On August 9, Beech Bend Raceway will welcome Thursday Night Under the Lights, featuring drag racing action, including heads-up Gassers, wheel standers, and 200-mph exhibition cars. On Friday, original and restored Tri-Fives can gather in a special designated parking area to compete for the American Tri-Five

Association’s Preservation Award, given to the best representation of a factory-appearing Tri-Five. The rest of the event, produced by Woody’s Hot Rodz, will

feature show cars as well as competitive and “fun run” racing on the strip. Ten Painless Performance/ STREET RODDER Top 100 winners will be selected as well. Learn more about the Danchuk Tri-Five Nationals and register to attend at thetriivenationals.com.

local and national level, and their appreciation for preserved and restored classics makes this relationship a perfect it.” To learn more about

Mecum Auctions, and for the full 2018 Mecum car auction schedule, visit mecum.com. For more information about Coker Tire, go to cokertire.com.

Coker Tire Joins Mecum Auctions •The world’s largest collector car tire supplier has partnered with the world’s largest collector car auction company. Coker Tire is now the exclusive tire and wheel sponsor of Mecum Auctions and will be at the 18 Mecum Auctions throughout 2018. Coker Tire’s involvement includes on-site booth displays, product sales, and support. At each auction, Coker Tire and Mecum 16

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER

staf choose vehicles representing the brand. Coker Tire presents some of its favorite vehicles via social media coverage, commercial spots, and airtime coverage, ofering perspectives about auction vehicles equipped with Coker Tire products. Coker Tire President and COO Wade Kawasaki said, “Dana Mecum and his team have built an incredible presence with their auctions, both at the


What’s On Demand This Month? 5/4/18

Auto Mundial Motorsport Mundial 5/7/18 HOT ROD Garage, Ep. 7.2 (62) 5/9/18 Head 2 Head, Ep. 7.5 (102) 5/10/18 FIA World Rallycross, Belgium 5/11/18 Auto Mundial Motorsport Mundial 5/12/18 LIVE! 24H Nürburgring LIVE! European Le Mans Series Qualifying, Monza, Italy LIVE! FIA Formula 3 Championship LIVE! Formula Drift, Atlanta, GA 5/13/18 LIVE! European Le Mans Seriesy LIVE! FIA Formula 3 Championship 5/16/18 Mobil 1 The Grid, Program 7 Junkyard Gold, Ep. 7.5 (8) 5/17/18 FIA World Rallycross, Belgium 5/18/18 Auto Mundial Motorsport Mundial 5/19/18 LIVE! Virgin Australia Supercars 5/21/18 Roadkill Garage, Ep. 7.5 (30) 5/23/18 Engine Masters, Ep. 7.2 (32) 5/25/18 LIVE! 24H GT Series/ 24H Touring Car Endurance Series, 12H Imola, Qualifying and Race Pt. 1 Auto Mundial Motorsport Mundial 5/26/18 LIVE! 24H GT Series/ 24H Touring Car Endurance Series, 12H Imola, Race Pt. 2 5/28/18 Dirt Every Day, Ep. 7.4 (76) 5/30/18 Mobil 1 The Grid, Program 8 Ignition, Ep. 7.6 (192) 5/31/18 FIA World Rallycross, Great Britain 6/1/18 Auto Mundial Motorsport Mundial SCHEDULE KEY: Racing Original Programs * The program information provided is subject to change.

motortrend.com


feature

THE

MARTIN RACING SPECIAL How a Prewar Model A Lakester Became America’s Most Beautiful Roadster

Hot Rods & Hobbies (HR&H) has had a prominent display at the Grand National Roadster Show ever since the event relocated to the Pomona Fairplex 14 years ago. Scott Bonowksi and his team at the Signal Hill, California, shop have always displayed their best and freshest builds a few paces from the America’s Most Beautiful Roadster trophy. In the inal hour of this year’s GNRS, that 9-foot-tall trophy was moved from the center of the building to stand next to this ’31 Ford roadster, America’s Most Beautiful Roadster for 2018. BY TIM BERNSAU

20

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM SUTTON

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STREET RODDER â—† JULY 2018

21


THE MARTIN RACING SPECIAL The Martin Racing Special, owned by David Martin of Santa Monica, California, has a history that starts long before its recent rebuild by HR&H, and long before its two previous appearances in STREET RODDER. Old stories and photos reveal the roadster’s identity as a racer on the Southern California dry lakes during hot rodding’s earliest years. David was a teenager in the ’50s when his hot rod history began.

David has owned this Model A since 1982. After answering a newspaper ad, he found the car in the desert in San Diego County. At that time, it was channeled, Flathead-powered, and dressed in Candy Apple Red paint and white tuck ’n’ roll upholstery. The owner conirmed the roadster’s identity as a surviving prewar dry lakes racer. When the car (along with David and his wife, Mary) appeared on the cover of the Feb. ’86 issue of STREET RODDER, it was black with yellow Dayton wire wheels and a Halibrand quick-change rear. The Flathead had been replaced by a rare Riley SOHC V-8 engine, which, for reasons never determined, didn’t live more than a few hours on the road. David installed the Flathead that had been in it. The recently rebuilt Flattie lasted two weeks before seizing. The third engine was a success; that blown Chevy 350 powered the ’31 on the irst Hot Rod Power Tour in 1995. By 2003, the roadster was ripe for a rebuild. David turned to Bonowski and HR&H for the task. When HR&H was inished, the factory steel was painted dark blue with amber scallops and the 350 was topped with a trio of Rochester carbs. A year later, the car made its debut at the Grand National Roadster Show, winning First Place in its class. It was back on the cover of STREET RODDER for the May ’06 issue. The feature story, including a full description of the roadster in that version, can be read at hotrod.com/ articles/0605sr-1931-ford-roadster. Street rods are built to move forward. David applied that principle to his roadster one more time when he and Bonowski took the next step with the car—the step that took them to that famous 9-foot trophy. 22

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The rebuild was extensive; there is little recognizable from the roadster we featured 12 years ago—and the changes go deep. Spectators at the GNRS started with its outward appearance, so we will too. The body reshaping includes handmade suicide doors, 6 inches longer than stock and shaped reminiscent of ’33-’34 doors. The Deuce grille and shell were shortened an inch, and the fabricated aluminum hood top and sides were lengthened 3 inches. The underside of the hood was lined with retro-style diamondstitched material. Guide headlights, Alfa Romeo taillights, and ’50s-style Raydyot repro mirrors call out the roadster’s early sports car and racing inluences. Three of the roadster’s most prominent


STREET RODDER â—† JULY 2018

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THE MARTIN RACING SPECIAL

exterior attention-getters are the louvers (almost 300 of them), Bonowski’s custom blue paintjob (with mustard yellow and red beltline striping), and the incredible tube headers created by Gerome Rodela of Rodela Specialty Fabrication. The headers emerge from the lower hood blisters and disappear back into the framerails. Louvers continue underneath on the aluminum full belly pan. No fenders cover the 5.50R16 and 7.00R17 Excelsior Stahl Sport Radials from Coker Tire. The custom-built Evod Industries wheels are modeled after the Halibrand magnesium wheels on mid-’50s Indycars—right down to the three-spoke knockofs. The wheelbase of the modiied ’32 ’rails was lengthened and the track widened for performance. Frank Kurtis’ torsion bar racing chassis from the ’50s provided the inspiration for the front suspension of the Martin Racing Special. David and Bonowski

24

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aren’t the only ones inspired; Steve Moal at Moal Coachbuilders has repeated Kurtis’ success with this Indy-type suspension alternative and built the frontend for this roadster. A four-bar setup and Bilstein SN2 Series monotube shocks mounted on the drilled and dropped I-beam axle provide further stability in front, and the Unisteer Performance rack-andpinion improves steering. In the

rear, you’ll ind a Winters V-8 quick-change with a Wedgelock limited-slip diferential and straight-cut, six-spline gears. A custom four-link locates Strange Engineering axles—with a Speedway Engineering antiroll bar, PAC Racing coil springs, and JRi Pro Touring shocks for improved ride. Braking is handled by 11-inch SO-CAL front discs and Wilwood rears, fed by a Wilwood master cylinder, proportioning valve, and pedal assembly. A Borla Eight Stack EFI system on an Edelbrock Victor aluminum manifold (with Edelbrock Pro-Flo 3 electronics) and Vintage Restoration Parts inned valve covers from Johnny Law Motors give the engine a retro appearance—but looks are misleading. Tom Malloy at Ed Pink Racing Engines built the 401ci all-aluminum Brodix engine with Edelbrock split-port heads and plenty of high-performance internals. Fuel comes from a


n o i t a n i g Ima shed. Unlea

Every builder has a passion for the creative process. A vision and a willingness to spend thousands of hours getting every little detail of their project just right. The reward comes in smiles from satisfied owners. That’s why Cam Miller of HS Customs, like so many other rising artists, trusts one brand to deliver a perfect finish.

Š2017 PPG Industries, Inc. All rights reserved. www.vibrancecollection.com The PPG Logo and Vibrance Collection are registered trademarks of PPG Industries Ohio, Inc.


THE MARTIN RACING SPECIAL Harmon racing cell in the trunk. The up-to-date engine is rated at 500 hp and 493 lb-ft of torque. A Richmond Super Street ive-speed was built at HR&H, with a clutch, lywheel, and disc from McLeod. The performance engineering that went into the roadster might seem like overkill for a car destined to win America’s Most Beautiful Roadster, but the Martin Racing Special wasn’t built for looks alone. Four months before the Grand National Roadster Show, David was racing it in bare metal in the Silver State Classic Challenge in Nevada, clocking an average speed of 101.5057 mph. Two day later, the car drove into the STREET RODDER photo studio, still with its race number on the doors, a single race seat, no upholstery, three-point rollcage, an aluminum tonneau, and dead insects crushed against the Mattson’s custom radiator. Visit streetrodder.com to see more photos from that session. The GNRS was approaching fast when the car rolled into the HR&H spray booth for its Axalta paintjob, and then over to Mark Lopez at Elegance Auto Interiors. Elegance has created interiors for many AMBR contenders and winners. Lopez used red leather for the panels and the modiied Kirkey racing seats. Crow Enterprizes supplied the ive-point race belts. The loor is rubber covered, like a functioning race car. The race instruments are exclusive one-of hybrids, designed and built by Redline Gauge Works. The Steering Wheel Guy in Alberta built the custom four-spoke Sprint Car wheel mounted on a LimeWorks column. Wiring was completed using a Ron Francis Bare Bonz kit. The Martin Racing Special represents the irst AMBR win for HR&H, the irst for David Martin, and the irst for a ’31 Ford. It’s a proud accomplishment, but it’s not the irst one for David’s long-lived roadster. We predict it won’t be the last. As long as there are more miles to drive, more competitions to face, and more fun to have, this hot rod will keep moving forward. •For the digital experience: https://bit.ly/2GhcA88

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EVENT

THE 69TH ANNUAL GRAND NATIONAL ROADSTER SHOW Seven Decades of America’s Most Beautiful … And More You know how January is typically “the start of the indoor show season”? (Really, it’s the start of most things that correspond to our calendar system …) But this is California, and unlike most other states, there really isn’t a winter or indoor car show season, per se—we just have car shows year ’round, and some just happen to be held indoors … mostly. It is what it is, and January is the beginning of the 2018 car show season, which kicks of at the Fairplex in Pomona with the 69th Annual Grand National Roadster Show. And … it’s usually when the area gets its initial dose of inclement weather, a factor better suited for events held indoors. I’ve been going to this gala gig (which in a very spiritually communal way. An some refer to simply as The Roadster Show, annual reunion of rodders, if you will, it’s often confusing it with the L.A. Roadsters the one show where four days barely gives event, but we’ll go with GNRS for short) you enough time to see everything—and for many years—from its inal exhibit everyone. at the Oakland Coliseum, its brief stints The “feature” aspect of the GNRS that in San Francisco and San Mateo, to its has remained the same since it was irst inaugural SoCal showing here in Pomona bestowed upon a Southern Californian where it’s much easier to get to for folks by the name of Bill Neikamp in 1950 is like me (sorry NorCal). But despite the the cherished America’s Most Beautiful venue/geographical and promoter changes, Roadster award accompanied by the some things will never change—the aura now-famous 9-foot trophy that show surrounding the GNRS that not only draws founder Al Slonaker originally had created people from far and wide, but does so as potential bait to lure in roadster owners By Rob Fortier Photography by the Author, Brian Brennan & Tim Bernsau

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THE 69TH ANNUAL GRAND NATIONAL ROADSTER SHOW from down south. Don’t imagine Slonaker ever imagined his scheme would do the exact opposite, but he oughtta be real pleased to see how the show’s grown to become the “longest running indoor car show in the world.” This year’s AMBR honors went to the Martin Special, the '31 Ford roadster undertaken by Hot Rods & Hobbies for its namesake owner, Dave Martin. A deinite crowd favorite, the anticipated restoration debut of the Eddie Dye '29 Ford roadster by Circle City Hot Rods and owned by Tom Bobowksi was given the Bruce Meyer Hot Rod Preservation Trophy.

AMBR +CONTENDER+

AMBR

AMBR

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AMBR

AMBR

+CONTENDER+

+CONTENDER+

AMBR

AMBR

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THE 69TH ANNUAL GRAND NATIONAL ROADSTER SHOW I will admit there was one slight diference at this year’s event—the inclement weather that’s usually factored in, well, it apparently decided to take the week of and spend some time back east. Pomona Valley and its surrounding areas below the foothills of the San Gabriel Mountains were clear, dry, and unseasonably warm—albeit a bit windy come Sunday when the 69th (or is it the 70th?!) edition of the Grand National Roadster Show came to a successful end with the traditional closing of the awards ceremony. For more photos visit: https://bit.ly/2DXAKCq

AMBR +CONTENDER+

AMBR

AMBR

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+CONTENDER+

AMBR

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+CONTENDER+

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Presented by

Best Ford in a Ford

This 351-Powered '55 Ford F-100 is Rebuilt and Righteous

YEAR: 1955 MAKE: Ford MODEL: F-100 Pickup OWNER: John Rydzewski STATE: Oregon

xHow many enthusiasts drive Fords because their fathers drove Blue Oval iron? John Rydzewski from Oregon City, Oregon, is the owner and builder of this candy blue '55 Ford F-100. He grew up around his dad’s Fords and developed a love for them, especially fat-fendered trucks. When John purchased his F-100 24 years ago it was stock. After his irst rebuild, it had purple paint with ghost lames, 15-inch Alcoa truck wheels, a gray interior, and a Ford 351W engine where the factory Y-block had been. He and his wife, Tracielyn, started participating in shows and the truck started getting attention.

Six years ago, John was inspired to rebuild the F-100 after stuf in his garage had fallen on it. Secondbuild body modiications include shaved sheetmetal, molded running boards, a frenched antenna, and a rear roll pan. Widened rear fenders house 20x13 Schott wheels, with 18s in front, all wrapped in Mickey Thompson rubber. The House of 38

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER

Kolor paint was sprayed at Ben’s Custom Paint. The F-100 will be back on the street when its showbiz career winds down, so John added a Mustang II independent front suspension and a rear four-link with a Watts link and ShockWaves all around. CSC Custom Upholstery covered the aftermarket bucket seats and

door panels in two-tone leather. The center console holds the B&M shifter, JVC head unit, and Vintage Air vents. The billet cup holders lift to reveal the Alpine amps (speakers are MB Quart and JBL). A billet dash plate holds Dakota Digital gauges. The reliable Ford 351, C6 transmission, and 9-inch rearend from the irst rebuild were retained


for the second project. John chose the 351 to keep his F-100 all Ford. The engine was machined and rebuilt by Portland Engine Rebuilders and topped with an Edelbrock intake, Holley carburetor, and a classic bugcatcher air cleaner. Ford Performance ofers variations on the 351 at performanceparts.ford.com. Dameon Allen of Paciic Styles Car Club contributed to the build and Tacielyn contributed moral support. John’s homebuilt F-100 was at the GNRS to collect points needed to qualify for the ISCA Championship Finals. He accomplished that goal as well as the unexpected goal of winning the Ford Performance/ STREET RODDER Best Ford In A Ford award.

STREET RODDER â—† JULY 2018

39


• For more photos and videos of these 10 winners: https://bit. ly/2DZMtjW and https://bit. ly/2Ghv1cS 1932 FORD COUPE | BRET SUKERT | MONTESANO, WA

Bret’s ’60s-style '32 three-window hot rod is built from an unmodified original steel body bought from well-known rodder Dick Page. Fosses Hot Rods handled body and paint chores; Mitch Kim did all that ’striping. The suspension includes a dropped axle and transverse leaves in front and quarter ellipticals in back. The Chevy small-block is topped with a Weiand manifold and '65-'66 GTO air cleaner. Interior elements include Mopar van seats, an N.O.S. Grant wheel, and restored Ha-Dees Stewart-Warner blue face gauges. The coupe won the Suede Palace Best of Show award.

1940 FORD CONVERTIBLE | TONY MILLER | SAN PEDRO, CA

1957 FORD DEL RIO RANCH WAGON | ROBERT FLORINE | VENTURA, CA

Tony cut the top off a standard coupe and added a postwar-style top with quarter windows. At Don Dillard’s Highway 99 Hot Rods the hood and quarters were sectioned, front wheels moved forward, body channeled, doors stretched, trunk shortened, and many other mods were made, including a handmade '40 Merc grille, '39 trim, '41 Stude taillights, and '40 Merc rear bumper. A Plymouth speedo and '40 Ford instruments fill the dash facing Sid Chavers’ red leather interior. A 4V 289 Ford is tied to an AOD trans. The only unmodified parts are the front bumper, running boards, and headlight rings.

Robert wanted a Ford because there is already an abundance of Chevys, and worked with Steve Strope and crew at Pure Vision to build his wagon. The profile was altered with a slanted B-pillar and 4-3/4-inch door stretch (with '57 T-bird handles) to improve proportions. An Art Morrison Enterprises chassis with C6 front suspension parts and Mike Meyer Racing rear torque arms and JRI coilovers beef up the undercarriage. The engine is a Kaase Boss 9 with Borla eight-stack induction. The custom interior is matched in great taste by the Bridgewater Bronze and Avorio two-tone paint.

1929 FORD ROADSTER | JAMES BOBOWSKI | ORANGE, CA

1941 BUICK | CLIFFORD MATTIS | VACAVILLE, CA

James’ Model A exemplifies the historical influence that was strong among AMBR contenders. The Eddie Dye roadster has been lost, found, parted out, and rotated through many owners and styles since the Ayala Brothers built it for Eddie almost 70 years ago. Jimmy White and his Circle City Hot Rods team restored it using many original parts, like the Whitey Clayton nose and hood—and reproducing others, like the belly pan and Crestliner wheel. The Evans Engineering Flathead, Cherry Orchid paint, Ford and Merc hubcaps, and Chris Plant’s recreated white pleated upholstery bring 1952 into 2018.

Clifford and builder Marcos Garcia from Lucky 7 Customs teamed up on this custom. A chopped top, handmade flush skirts, and taillights are just a few of the custom mods. The chassis combines a Mustang II frontend and a four-link rear, with airbags to drop the car. Power comes from a carbed Chevy 350. One-off EVOD wheels (with simulated Caddy caps) roll with Coker Firestones. The vintage-style interior features a Dennis Crook wheel, New Vintage USA gauges, and patterned cloth inserts in the leather upholstery. It took 20 spray-outs to get the right dark olive paint color, but the final result is stunning.


1960 BUICK LESABRE | JOHN BURKE | ALBUQUERQUE, NM

1934 FORD COUPE | DENNIS MARIANI JR. | OAKLAND, CA

John’s radical custom Buick was previously owned by Aaron Lobato of U.S. Kustoms. John worked with Aaron and Jimmy Gutierrez to turn the car into a piece of art. Modifications include the 1-3/4-inch chop, custom grille made from '50 Merc hood ornaments, '60 Imperial bumpers, custom taillights built with '60 Buick and '62 Merc components, and reshaped fins. RideTech suspension drops the Buick to the pavement. The full custom interior features two-tone Camaro buckets, a console created from two '65 T-birds, and a '60 Imperial steering wheel. The paint is PPG Emberglow.

Dennis Mariani Jr. wanted a high-end, classy, street-driven coupe to reflect the look of the land speed cars he and his family have raced on the salt flats. The track nose, belly pans, British Racing Green paint, and other elements on his '34 Ford three-window coupe accomplish that. Moal Coachbuilders built the car using their torsion bar suspension. A Hilborn EFI setup feeds the aluminum Chevy small-block, connected to a Legend five-speed with a V-8 quick-change rear. Moal built custom centers for the steel wheels. A '34 steering wheel was customized and the bucket seats were upholstered in deep red leather.

1957 CHEVY 150 SEDAN | TONY & PAULA JURADO | HAYWARD, CA

1950 STUDEBAKER | GARY WARNER | BURLEY, ID

A matching-numbers dual-quad 283 and Muncie four-speed propel the Chevy, with other numbers-correct parts also used. The suspension components were rebuilt or replaced to keep it stock underneath. With Americans in front and chrome reverse wheels with slicks in back, vinyl tuck ’n’ roll inside, Sun tach, no air, and no tunes, the '57 is a real throwback to the early ’60s.

Gary grafted the '50 coupe nose onto a '49 Champion body. The 354 Chrysler Hemi came out of a chicken coop. Now it runs Hilborn electronic injection and a BDS blower. The custom chassis with Jim Meyer Racing front suspension and RideTech components rolls on Boyds wheels and Mickey Thompson tires. Exterior mods include the 4-inch chop and reshaped suicide doors. Brown leather alligator-covered seats add elegance. AMERICAN MADE AMERICAN PROUD

+TECH  TIP+ ENGINE RUNNING HOT

1938 FORD CONVERTIBLE SEDAN | DON & IRENE RICHARDSON | HOQUIAM, WA Don built the '38 in segments, working nights and weekends at his shop, Richardson’s Custom Auto Body. PPG Copper Sunset paint covers the body, chopped 1-1/2 inches, and modified with a '37 Ford nose, reshaped wheelwells, and custom side moldings. The stock frame has been boxed. Suspension goodies include a Heidts frontend, Jag rear, and ShockWaves. The engine is a Chevy Ram Jet 350 backed by a 700-R4. Take a close look at the Firestone hubcaps on the Wheel Vintiques wheels. The contemporary interior features custom leather upholstery and a '50 Buick wheel from Dennis Crooks.

The “old-school” train of thought is, if the engine is over 180 degrees, IT’S HOT! In this day and time, engines run 210-230 degrees all the time. With a good mix of water and antifreeze, 50/50, and a 15-pound radiator cap, your engine can easily withstand 240 degrees. Scary yes, but fact. As the old saying goes “if it ain’t boiling over it ain’t hot.”

+++++ STREET RODDER ◆ JULY 2018

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THE

EXPATRIATE Rodger Vagg’s Transplanted Deuce Coupe BY ROB FORTIER

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT MCGAFFIN

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER


feature

I can’t help but laugh when I hear someone all up in arms whenever vintage American tin gets sold and shipped overseas, as I’m fairly certain none of them were ofered for sale with “foreign buyers only” stipulations. Granted, our original surplus is rapidly dwindling, but I’ve always found it kind of lattering when folks from abroad spread the gospel of hot rodding across Europe, Asia, and especially Australia, where our domestics are not as foreign as you might’ve imagined. Australia’s hot rod heritage dates back nearly as far as it does in the States—way back to the early ’50s when the Southern Hot Rod Club was officially formed and the creation of local dragstrips and organized events ensued. But when it came to emulating that western style, the Aussies didn’t have to rely upon “imports” or create interpretations out of their own domestics. Shortly after Henry Ford brought his very irst automobile to market in 1903, the same North American model Fords were shipped to and sold in Australia—but, by 1925, Ford established its irst of many assembly plants to handle the increased volume of domesticimports (unlike GM-Holden, which were more amalgamations of various manufacture). Not only could the Australians buy the all-new ’32 Ford V-8 that same year (albeit later in the third quarter), they had those same roadsters and coupes to turn into hot rods not too long after. Of course the number of units allotted for foreign sales was substantially less than the U.S. market’s share, so suffice it to say, their surplus has pretty much all but dried up in comparison. With that said, despite Australia’s rigorous vehicle safety laws that directly apply to hot rods old and new (special construction), the scene Down Under is still thriving.

STREET RODDER ◆ JULY 2018

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THE EXPATRIATE Again, just as it is here in the good ol’ USofA, while certain folks just have to have the real-deal FoMoCo steel, Australians are no strangers to the aftermarket alternative. And that’s just what lifelong Gold Coast hot rodder Rodger Vagg opted to do when he inally decided to fulill a dream of owning a Deuce ive-window in 2015 … and not leave any whiny Yanks up in arms in the process! But get this: In June Rodger made the irst call to Dion Willcox at The Kustom Shop in Brisbane to get the ball rolling—the following June of 2016, the wheels of Rodger’s coupe were doing the rolling … completed; it was photographed here in the U.S. shortly thereafter. That’s right, the coupe was sent back to the motherland (the chassis calls Calhoun, Georgia, home) and taken to the national events in Columbus and Louisville. Georgia is not only where Rodger’s chassis was put together, it’s where the righthand-drive conversion took place. Chad Adams (Adams Hot Rod Shop) has some experience with wrong-side drivers, which made the process of constructing the American Stamping–based platform just as easy as it would be for a standard lefty

AUSTRALIA’S HOT ROD HERITAGE DATES BACK NEARLY AS FAR AS IT DOES IN THE STATES—WAY BACK TO THE EARLY ’50S.

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THE EXPATRIATE (a reversed Mullins Vega box and mirrored framerail bracketry are essentially all it needs). Adams utilized SO-CAL Speed Shop’s dropped axle and hairpins up front, but in the rear he used a triangulated four-link with Aldan coilovers to locate and suspend the 9-inch. Each of the axle termination points are itted with Wilwood brakes—the fronts concealed by narrow E-T Dragmasters with wider yet contrasting E-T Fuelers out back. Power comes from the tried-and-true Chevy 350 combo. Once Adams had inished his part, the roller chassis was carted up and put on the next ship to Australia. This was in December, which left The Kustom Shop just shy of six months to paint, assemble, and completely inish Rodger’s coupe. Having already received the ive-window via United Paciic, all the initial work to it had been done, but Dion and crew still had quite a lot to do in order to meet the June deadline just around the corner, as this was a full-fendered build not a highboy. But inish it they did, and beautifully so with gorgeous custom-mixed Axalta greenish-gray laid down as the coupe’s literal inish and a brown distressed leather interior done locally by Annvid Auto Upholsterers. Despite Ford Australia ceasing production altogether back in 2016, the resurrection of early Fords—both foreign and domestic—is anything but dead in the land Down Under (sorry to my Australian friends and readers for using that term—again—I know how cherished it is!). For the digital experience: https://bit.ly/2GgTUp6

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1932 FORD TRUCK COMPLETE BODY SHELLS The New Truck Cab Body Shell is stock height and includes both Doors with Door Latches and the Rear Cab Hardwood Inner Structure.

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© 2018 United Pacific Industries. All Rights Reserved. Products not shown to scale. Specifications subject to change without notice.


[TECH]

1

I N S T A L L

Installing Holley’s New LS Accessory System Simplifying the Serpentine System Q By Taylor Kempkes QPhotography by the Author

veryone’s got an accessory system on the front of their engine, whether it’s factory, aftermarket, or custom fabricated. It’s just one of those basic necessities if you want an engine to work and your car to move. For us hot rodders, most of our time is spent thinking about the engine itself— intake manifolds, camshafts, carb versus EFI—you know, the exciting stuff that you can brag about on the Internet. But when it comes to fit and finish and, ultimately, the functionality of your ride, the accessories become quite important.

E

Now let’s move that thought train along and apply it to the LS-based engines we’re seeing swapped into more and more hot rods and muscle cars these days. Clearance and cohesion can be a couple of the biggest issues to conquer when fitting a modern engine in a not-so modern body. That’s where Holley’s new 48

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER

mid-mounted complete accessory systems for LS engines comes in. Not only is it compact, bringing everything in nice and snug to the width of the LS, but it’s also as complete as it gets, taking the headache out of lining everything up. Instead of using a bunch of brackets and spacers to bring all your accessories

Step one: identifying the parts. This kit comes with all the goods you’ll likely need to make this upgrade happen, including hardware, gaskets, wiring, pulley, tensioner, damper, alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump, water pump, thermostat, and belt.

into unison, their all-new water pump housing does all of that in one. The casting incorporates everything from the cartridge-style water pump to the alternator to the power steering to the A/C compressor. We thought we’d give the new system a try but not because we just felt like it. In fact, our 5.3L LS-powered '47 Chevy pickup was having some issues—namely that it kept throwing belts. We’d fiddled with different bracketry and spacers

but nothing seemed to do the trick, so when Holley told us about their new LS accessory system it was a no-brainer. As far as the install goes, it is about as simple as unbolting the old stuff and bolting on the new stuff. Since this is a kit designed for LS swaps, Holley did

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their best to make this kit go in as easily as possible, but depending on your application you might need to get a little creative when it comes to routing hoses and other lines. But if you’ve already committed to the challenge of an engine swap this should be the least of your worries. So follow along as we journey through the process of installing Holley’s new accessory system on the LS in our '47 Chevy truck!

2 Now for the literal step one: Disassemble all of the old stuff; start by removing the serpentine belt.

3 Next you are going to want to drain and remove the radiator to give you more room to work because, at least in our case, we are doing this install with the engine still in the car. If you have the choice to install everything before dropping the engine in, do it!

4 Continue disassembly of the old serpentine system by removing the old accessories and brackets accumulating in the removal of the old water pump.


Now it’s time to begin assembly of the new goodies, beginning with the water pump housing on which the rest of the accessories are attached. Holley’s housing design removes the necessity of clunky brackets and spacers. Yay! First place the provided water pump gasket on the housing (there is only one way to do it thanks to a little locator pin on the housing face).

5

6 Then you can install the cartridge-style water pump using the six M6X20 Allen bolts through the holes in the water pump pulley and torque to the specs provided in the instruction sheet. There are eight very similar Allen bolts provided in the kit so make sure you are using the six longer ones for this part.

7 Remove the water pump steam port from the old pump and reinstall on the new Holley water pump housing. If there is any significant damage to the old one you’ll need to purchase a new one.


You might have noticed by now that there are four heater hose ports. Luckily this wasn’t an accident and Holley did this to give you an option, depending on where you want to route you heater hoses. With the supplied plugs, we 8 blocked off the lower two ports then installed the two hose barbs in the other two ports. Make sure to use Teflon tape on the threads to ensure a watertight seal.

10 With the old balancer removed, you can then install the new one provided in Holley’s kit.

9 At this point you should probably use a balancer puller to remove the old harmonic balancer. We say “should” because we did this much later in the installation process, which made it a little more difficult. Now you should be ready to install the water pump housing if you want (you could actually install all the accessories on the housing before installing on your LS but we decided it was easier to do it in pieces). Before throwing it on, make sure you have a clean mounting surface on your LS block and then put the provided gaskets on each side of the water pump housing, as shown.

11


12

13

Install the water pump housing using the provided bolts and torque to spec as specified by the instruction sheet.

Next up it’s time to start prepping the power steering pump, beginning by installing the -6 AN adapter assembly. We placed the assembly in a vise to make this task a lot easier.

15 14 Then press on the power steering pump pulley using an LS power steering pulley installer.

It is crucial that the pump shaft and pulley hub faces are perfectly flush, otherwise the belt won’t line up. So take it slow when pressing on the pulley, checking depth frequently.


16

17

Now that you have the power steering pump assembled, don’t install it! Well at least not yet. First you’ll need to install the alternator because the power steering pump will block one of the alternator mounting bolts.

OK, now that the alternator is in place you can install the assembled power steering pump using the bolts provided.

18

19

Time to focus on the opposite side and attach the A/C compressor, which is as easy as screwing in two Allen-head bolts.

Just below the A/C compressor, bolt on the new tensioner pulley.


20

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Next up install the provided thermostat and thermostat housing using the provided gasket and those shorter two M6 Allen bolts.

And just like that you can now install the new serpentine belt by releasing pressure on the tensioner. Refer to the provided directions for proper routing of the belt around the accessories.

From here on out it’s a matter of reinstalling everything else from the power steering hoses to the radiator. In our case it took some creativity to successfully connect the upper and lower radiator hoses, which is something we won’t go into detail regarding because it differs from application to application.

23 22

The end result is a simple and cohesive solution to a normally complex issue, and for that, Holley, we thank you.


“A guy like [Ty] isn’t going to be happy in a big old boat that doesn’t do anything except burn rubber,” he explains. “He’s got sandrails and bikes and snowmobiles and all. He plays hard.” Intrigued, Tim resolved to work up a plan with Ty. That plan dispensed with the rear suspension altogether for one of Mobsteel’s four-link kits. The company made the front’s lower control arms but Jacob Strain fabricated the uppers. And it’s for a reason: Wilwood spindles. It was a gangster’s car that inspired him. But in the end, it “You can get disc brake kits for was Ty Reoh who underwent the ultimate transformation. the stock spindles but they’re only 11 inches,” Tim says. “Ty wanted to BY C H R I S S H E LT O N • P H O T O G RA P H Y BY J O R G E N U Ñ E Z run these big wheels and this car’s really heavy.” The answer: 16-inch Meet Ty Reoh. He’s not a car guy—his words. But he saw a car Wilwood rotors pulled from the her liked in a movie. “It’s not really a car movie,” Ty says, almost apologetically. medium-duty truck market. “The Actually Hit and Run kind of is a car movie. In it, Dax Shepard plays a calipers alone are like 13 inches former getaway driver who escapes his old partner by Tokyo drifting a long!” Tim enthuses. “So it actually mid-’60s Lincoln Continental. The Connie’s low. It’s black. It sits on big wheels. needs those big wheels.” (In case And according to the antics that play out, it has suds. But come time to pitch you’re wondering, they’re 22x8 the dream, few shops bought the idea of a hot rod Lincoln like the one Ty saw and 22x10 Bonspeed Vin Speeds in the movie. with 245/30ZR22 and 285/30ZR22 In fact Ty found just one truly sympathetic ear. Divers Street Rods isn’t Continental ExtremeContact hides.) afraid of the unconventional. A decade ago it cannibalized a Ferrari Modena Scott Divers and Ian Richards 360 to make a Rambler great again. Or I suppose just make a Rambler great, fabricated an inner structure that ties period (Ferrambo won the 2008 Don Ridler Memorial Award). the body into the crossmember and But this deal wasn’t necessarily a slam-dunk. “What he described was kind of mounts the QA1 dampers inboard an old-school hot rod: It had a hood scoop, bigger tires, and a big ol’ motor so they and ahead of the engine. Why? A could go out and burn rubber with it,” company cofounder Tim Divers says. “You 5.8L Ford, the supercharged beast know, like the cars that we built in our backyards when we were kids.” from the ’13 Mustang GT500. It’s Ouch!

MADE feature

MAN

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STREET RODDER â—† JULY 2018

57


MADE MAN equal parts portly and powerful (730 lb-ft of torque and 750 hp at 6,000 rpm after overdriving the blower). Ford designed that engine to work exclusively with a manual transmission but Compushift igured out how to make it play with a 4R100 transmission. The movie car probably didn’t need a hood scoop but this car could’ve used one. “If you go back into the pictures on the Divers website, you can see where we had the hood mocked up with a scoop,” Ty notes. “But we got away from it as the car got more elaborate.” Tim notes, “Sure, on a Camaro or Mustang or whatever (a scoop) is cool. But that scoop really didn’t go with the lines on this car. And a scoop sure doesn’t it the personality of a luxury car.” In the end, the Divers crew literally built the car around the engine, which meant raising the center of the hood. Reducing weight compares to increasing power, but with the beneit of better handling. The lowest-lying fruit was at the ends. “I should’ve weighed the factory bumpers and brackets,” Tim says. “They weighed hundreds of pounds.” After narrowing and tucking the bumpers, Scott and Wiggins Customs pulled molds and fabricated ones from carbon iber. Divers hid Easter eggs throughout the car, like the Kindig-It door handles. But the most dramatic change is actually between those handles. Lincoln never produced a hardtop Continental sedan but its convertibles have no pillar. So after reinforcing the body, Tim outitted the doors with convertible glass, a chore that required reshaping the sail panel since the convertible

frames drop of a little diferently. The “lat black” inish is actually a House of Kolor pearl with a Glasurit satin clear. And it wasn’t easy. “To keep that same sheen when you’re painting is really difficult,” Tim says. “If you get a speck of dirt in it, you can’t cut and polish it out the way

you can with a shiny car. If you get a dry spot while you’re shooting you’re fudged (only he didn’t say fudged). Get a run? Damage anything while you’re assembling the car? You’re repainting the whole panel.” Kudos to Sig Schott and Rich Thayer for doing it (and doing it over). Divers found additional ways to keep weight down within the interior.


MADE MAN Ty liked the dash in another Divers car so Scott fabricated one from aluminum and carbon iber (it mounts Dakota Digital VHX gauges). He also made the console like all the others, only Scott pulled a mold and made the inal one from carbon iber. “It’s not like we were trying to make this thing light—it’s never going to be,” Tim says. “But we wanted to at least make it closer to a performance car. We went toward road-course stuf but with a boat. Nobody’s telling what the seats started as but they now wear black Alcantara. Scott hid a host of Alpine and Focal gear throughout the interior. CON2R made the steering wheel. “I think we did the right thing going to all that extra efort,” Tim continues. “Every time you give a car to a client you know that they’re going to ind things to ix. He tells me when you stab it, it has problems when it hits third. Well at that point you’re well over 100 mph. That just tells me what kind of customer he is. He never would’ve been happy with a boat with big wheels and a hood scoop.” “The thing is simply amazing,” Ty summarizes. “I mean I still like the car from the movie and all but there’s no comparison.” One could make the case that they built the car that could’ve inspired a director like Dax Shepard—you could call it a prequel. Call it what you want but Ty calls it the car he really wants. If Ty Reoh started this journey not a car guy, he sure ended it as one. No way in hell can a non-car person commission such an incredible car. For good or ill, you’re one of us now. Congratulations. (I think …) For the digital experience: https://bit.ly/2I4Lfq2

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[TECH] C R E A T E

Reap What You Sew Do Your own Upholstery, Part I: How to Thread an Industrial Sewing Machine Q By Chris Shelton QPhotography by the Author

I

t seems we’ve mastered every part of the car-building process. When our engines wore out, we bought a book and rebuilt them. When the body shop gave us our first estimate, we learned how to paint. We figured out how to adapt air conditioning and we’ve even gone as far as buying the specialized tools necessary to rebuild an automatic transmission. But there’s one component of car construction that makes most of us recoil in fear: upholstery. When diehards brag about how they built something, they usually do it with the following caveat: “Yup, I did everything … but the interior.” A stigma exists about trim work, some of it warranted and a bunch of it not. Yes, upholstery requires some expensive specialty tools. But so does every other process in car

1 By and large, industrial machines consist of a machine built into a table (the woodgrain part) with a motor hung on the underside. There’s also a foot pedal below the table and a knee-operated arm that lifts the presser foot. Here’s how to thread one.

construction. And yes, upholstery requires a pretty large piece of gear (sewing machine). But so does painting a car, and nobody ever bitches that their compressor is too big. So why is upholstery so 62

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER

taboo? I’m going to go out on a limb here and hazard a guess: the act of sewing really intimidates us. And by us, I mean men. No, really. Sewing has some baggage and we guys are suckers for buying into

it. We’re taught early on that sewing is kinda girly. Your mom sewed patches to your jeans. Your sister sewed a dress in Home Ec. Plus a lot of us are afraid of sewing our fingers together. These fears foster a kind of noble ignorance: we’re intrigued but remain largely intimidated. If you’re willing to overcome your fears then we have good news for you: more than fairly simple, sewing is actually really rewarding. Yeah, trim work is one of those things that’s difficult to master but at its heart it’s really not all that hard to learn. And we’re going to show you how. And by we, I mean Jerry Glasgow at McFarland Custom Upholstery. He’s the ultimate teacher; before he took up working with award-winning trimmer

Jamie McFarland, he taught would-be awardwinning trimmer Jamie McFarland how to sew. In fact Glasgow taught a lot of people how to sew when he instructed at Clover Park Technical College. Over the next few months we’re going to reveal the tips and tricks that can make even someone like you or me look like we know what we’re doing. These instructions will culminate with a few big projects but it’ll be by a series of baby steps. Now if you’re still on the fence, here’s the part that may make it all better: to do this sort of work requires an industrial sewing machine. The kind of machine dear ol’ mom used can’t pierce multiple layers of upholsterygrade materials. While the machines are really no


Rather than go directly into the machine, the thread passes through an eyelet in the thread stand just above Jerry Glasgow’s hand.

2

The spool pin holds a thread spool on a homeowner machine but it serves as a guide on an industrial. Pass the thread through the upper hole first, from back to front (toward you). Then insert the thread through the lower hole from right to left (exits toward the machine head).

3 bigger than a domestic machine, they have the power to plunge through plywood. They require a job-specific table that mounts a motor on the bottom side. People refer to them by various terms like walking-foot, unison-feed, or triple-feed. They all mean basically the same thing. Consult a sewing-machine specialist for more details. And get one that a local shop can service. Some brands come cheap because they have little support. And while new machines can cost in the thousands, older ones turn up in the want ads for hundreds. You can even buy low-cost machines complete with tables and motors for $600. But don’t be afraid to splurge on a quality machine in known good condition; you can recoup most if not all of your investment when you’re done (provided you’re not hooked, which you may be). We’ll jump right into this by explaining how to set up a sewing machine. It takes

4 Thread guides vary radically among makes and models but like the spool pin, it redirects the thread and maintains thread tension. In this case, enter both holes from the right, going top to bottom.


This machine has a separate assembly for the take-up spring. Begin by wrapping the thread around it so it compresses the spring.

5 Loop the thread over this grooved pin then pull it down to the right of the thread tensioner. The objective is to pull the thread between the tensioner’s discs.

thread (Glasgow recommends DB-92), bobbins (he recommends pre-wound), a diamond-point needle (consult your supplier), a sharp pair of scissors, and some inexpensive vinyl remnants. The following is the way to thread this particular machine. While it’s close for most machines, it’s not the same for all. In fact, you’re best off consulting your machine’s manual (which is almost certainly available on the market). So why show how to do it? It’s a great hook; by seeing how simple it is to thread a machine, you’re more likely to actually take the plunge and get one. Seriously, it’s easy to pick up. Even easier than MIG welding. There’s great incentive to learn how to sew. For one, you can save a fair bit of money. For another, you control the outcome. But most of all, learn to sew and you too can brag that you did everything … even the interior.

6 It’s not necessary to disassemble the tensioner to thread but it’s a good idea to clean it every so often. Plus this shows how the thread wraps around the tensioner spindle and then loops over this small pin.

7


Now here’s the trick: Wrap the thread around the little hook so it emerges from the crotch.

8

9 Then pull the thread upward through the guide.

10

The thread then passes from right to left through the take-up lever. Then pull the thread down through the other side of the guide shown in the previous step.

Motors Chances are the machine you’ll get has a clutch-type motor. In this design the motor always spins. Pressing on a foot pedal engages a clutch, which turns a pulley. A belt delivers the torque from that pulley to one on the machine. While this is a reliable, time-honored system, it’s relatively difficult to learn. It takes a delicate touch; to sew slowly requires gently slipping the clutch and said clutch doesn’t offer much modulation. To an untrained foot, it feels like an on-off switch. And when on, the machine takes off at full speed. I’ll be honest, it’s intimidating. Trimmers take to it easily but that’s because they practice daily. It’s like riding a bike to


Finally, pass the thread from left to right through the needle. That concludes threading the topside.

11 Two more guides direct the thread toward the needle. They differ by make and model but they achieve the same goal.

13 Insert the bobbin into the case so the thread emerges, pointing toward the slot and tension spring.

them: automatic. But there’s an option for the rest of us. Several manufacturers offer servomotors for $100-$200. These motors behave identically to the motor in a homeowner machine: the motor speeds up proportionally to the amount you push the pedal, and there’s plenty of modulation. Plus many servomotors have speed limiters. That’s especially nice if you’re working very slowly and deliberately, which frankly is most of the time for anyone, seasoned professionals included. If you’ve ever had a car in for work, you know trimmers don’t make their money by how fast they go!

12


14

15

Now guide the thread into the slot in the bobbin case. In this design the slot makes kind of a hook. Pull it through and tug on it so it slips under the tension spring.

The thread leaves the bobbin case by this little notch. Pull the thread up through it and maintain enough pressure on it to keep it from slipping out.

16 Machines differ wildly by bobbin installation. This machine lays the bobbin at. Drop it in while keeping the thread in that little notch.

17 Grasp and gently pull on both threads while manually rolling the machine forward. This effectively threads the machine—at this point you can sew.


18

19

Glasgow recommends finding a machine with what’s often referred to as a high-lift foot. While not absolutely necessary, it makes it easier to feed a machine with several thicknesses of material.

Feed two layers of material into the machine and drop the presser foot. Prior to sewing, maintain a slight bit of pressure on the threads to keep them engaged within the machine.

20

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There are two ways to terminate a stitch. Stop sewing just short of the piece’s end and pull the piece loose enough to cut the threads. The problem is that you have to hold the threads as above when you restart.

Instead, Glasgow recommends terminating the stitch in a piece of scrap and cutting the threads between it and the sewn piece. Then, when you start your next stitch, you can go from the scrap to the material. Don't let the machine operate without material in it.


feature

Unorthodox

ORIGINS From Parade Floats to Restomods

Unorthodox: Contrary to what is usual, traditional, or accepted. Needless to say, this ’55 Chevy 210 was built a little diferently. It might look like a well-sorted, modern hot rod—and it is—but it was built by a group of guys who normally make things like parade loats and 3-D artistic displays for companies like Vanity Fair and Disneyland. So where’s the connection? How did they go from parade loats to hot rods? The transition is simple, really. They are just a bunch of guys who are both creative and know how to build stuf—two skills that go hand-in-hand with building custom hot rods. Steering the ship is Craig Bugajski, owner of Artistic Entertainment Services, who also happens to be the owner of the ’55 Chevy 210 we’ll be talking about today. He’s the idea guy and the one who ultimately calls the shots. But when it comes to their dabbling in hot rod building, he fully acknowledges that they’d be nowhere without Mark Beardsley. Beardsley is a true gearhead who’s been a diehard mini-trucker for years and spends every free minute going to car shows and building stuf. So, between Craig and Beardsley and a company made to facilitate creativity and turning ideas into reality, the jump to building cars was actually pretty natural. BY TAY L O R K E M P K E S

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIC GEISERT


It all started about eight years ago when the guys were looking for something to tinker with at the shop in Azusa, California, during breaks and after hours. Craig always had an affinity for ’55 Chevys so that’s where they started. He found one for a couple grand that needed some work—actually a lot of work—which was perfectly ine with them. It was nothing more than a frame and body, complete with copious amounts of rust. Since fabrication and metalwork were right up their alley, that was no problem and they got to work. Once they started working on the ’55 they never stopped. It’s had multiple engines and transmissions over the years and even to this day Craig sees plenty of room for improvement. At the end of the day—or at least at the time we wrote this feature—Craig’s ’55 Chevy 210 is as follows: The foundation of the car is an Art Morrison GT Sport chassis complete with a Ford 9-inch rearend and 4.11 gears. The 9-inch is controlled by a four-link suspension system while up front are tubular A-arms. At all four corners live Koni coilover shocks as well as beefy Wilwood brakes, which are supported by a CPP master cylinder, booster, and proportioning valve.

STREET RODDER ◆ JULY 2018

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UNORTHODOX ORIGINS Visually, Craig wanted to “stay true to what the car is and was,” meaning he didn’t want to meddle too much with the inherent style of the ’55. Body modiications were pretty minimal then with the major changes including shaving most of the trim and illing in the gas door (which was relocated behind the driver side taillight like ’56 Chevys). Speaking of taillights, those were sourced from Danchuk as well as the sideview mirrors and a new grille. Paint was next and Craig decided to spray the car in Silverstone Pearl from Valspar covered by a few PPG clearcoats. The inal touch to inish of the look of Craig’s Tri-Five was a set of American Racing Salt Flat wheels measuring 17x6 in the front and 17x8 out back. Since he wanted to keep the essence of the ’55 alive, Craig and the guys didn’t let the interior get too out of control. A billet aluminum stock-style dash is the centerpiece of the interior housing gauges from Auto Meter and accented 72

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER

by a chrome steering column from Flaming River. The steering wheel and rearview mirror were sourced from Billet Specialties while the shifter is from B&M. Bringing in some more modern amenities, they installed a Custom Autosound stereo paired with a Kenwood ampliier and speakers. They also threw in some A/C from Vintage Air to keep things cool while cruising the streets of Azusa. With all the tech installed, they sent the Tri-Five out to have the seats and door panels covered in gray leather with gray weave carpet to match. When it came to the engine that would power Craig’s Chevy, it seems no one could really decide what was best—or at least until its latest powerplant went in. First the car saw a 383 small-block Chevy paired with the current 4L60E transmission, then two engines later they inally settled on the current setup, which started out as a four-bolt main 350. They rebuilt the engine


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UNORTHODOX ORIGINS from the ground up, boring it 0.030-inch over and then using forged RaceTech pistons along with reconditioned rods, ARP bolts, and a steel crankshaft. Above the steel crank went a custom ground hydraulic roller camshaft. The top end of the 350 got a set of Dart Iron Eagle heads with COMP 1.6:1 roller rocker arms and an Edelbrock RPM Airgap intake manifold. A Holley 750 Double Pumper feeds the small-block air and fuel while an MSD billet distributor sends out the spark. Finally, a set of Sanderson Headers are hung on the small-block and send the exhaust gases rearward and out through a pair of Flowmaster mulers. The whole process took a while—about eight years— but it was a great exercise for Craig and his guys, showing them what they were capable of. Since the start of the ’55, they have now built or worked on a total of eight cars and trucks, including a ’31 Ford, ’72 Bronco, and ’23 T-bucket, and enjoyed every minute of it. In fact, they enjoyed it so much Craig decided he might as well start a whole other business out of it! As we speak, they are in the process of moving their hot rod program across the street into a building all of its own under the title CHB Motorsports. But back to the ’55. When we asked Craig if there was anything he’d do diferently if he had the chance to build the car again, his answer, simply put, was yes. “It was our irst car so you’re always looking at it seeing what you want to ix or do diferently,” Craig told us. A little humility and the goal of perfection can go a long way, so we can’t wait to see were CHB Motorsports will end up. But for now, this gorgeous ’55 Chevy seems like a pretty good start. For the digital experience: https://bit.ly/2G9XCoq

IT ALL STARTED ABOUT EIGHT YEARS AGO WHEN THE GUYS WERE LOOKING FOR SOMETHING TO TINKER WITH AT THE SHOP IN AZUSA, CALIFORNIA, DURING BREAKS AND AFTER HOURS. +++++

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E D U C A T E

On a Roll What You Need to Know When Selecting Wheels and Tires Q By Ron Ceridono QPhotography by Brian Brennan

f all the elements involved with street rod styling, the combination of wheels, tires, and stance may very well be the most critical. Use the wrong combination of rolling stock and it’s difficult, if not impossible, to ignore and may cause all the other cool elements of the car to go unappreciated.

O

Although the look of the wheel and tire combo is important performance is part of the package as well. There are growing numbers of builders who want more rubber to meet the road to enhance their car’s grip, but regardless of what you’re after, traditional bigs ’n’ littles or the latest in fat and sticky low-profile rollers, the challenge is figuring out what will fit before buying wheels and tires that won’t. One of the best methods to do that is with a tire-mounting fixture that Dean Livermore, at Hot Rods by Dean uses called the Tire Mount Mate. Available from WheelWorks, this clever tool allows tires to be 76

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER

testfit by simulating a wheel’s diameter, width, and backspacing. Kits are available for a variety of vehicles, including eight-lug trucks, however, the most popular kit for street rodders simulates wheels from 14- to 20-inch diameter up to 16.5 inches wide with up to 12 inches of backspacing. Once you’ve figured out what will fit in the space available there is some basic information about wheels you should be familiar with before making what is often a substantial investment. •Bolt Patterns This consists of two numbers, such as 5-on-4.5. The first number is the number of mounting

1 The perfect street rod stance is difficult to describe, but you’ll know it when you see it. This Ford Fairlane was built for the Road Tour by Hot Rods by Dean. We wanted as much rubber under the Fairlane’s fenders that would fit so HRBD used a Wheel Fit fixture to check clearances.

holes; the second is the diameter of the circle the holes are laid out on. In this example there would be five holes in a 4.5-inch circle. Some wheels will have two sets of boltholes, 5-on-4-.5 (often referred to the late Ford/Mopar pattern) and 5-on-4.75 (found on many Chevrolets). •Wheel Width This simple measurement can be confusing. It’s the width of the wheel from bead seat to bead seat and does not include the flanges that are outside the tire. •Diameter Like the width of a wheel, the diameter is from bead

seat to bead seat and does not include the outer flanges on each side. •Wheel Offset This is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel and the wheel’s centerline. Zero offset means that the wheel’s mounting surface and the centerline are the same. Positive offset means the mounting surface is toward the outer edge of

Source It Hot Rods by Dean (623) 581-1932 hotrodsbydean.com WheelWorks (251) 377-6724 wheelworksinc.com


the wheel. Negative offset means the mounting surface is toward the back of the wheel. (A classic example is a “reversed” wheel.)

2 The popularity of large disc brake rotors and calipers requires careful measurement of the “X-factor” to ensure the wheels will clear.

•Center Register Wheels must be centered on the hubs—this is done by two different methods. With hub-centric designs (most often used with OEM steel wheels) the center hole in the wheel fits tightly on (and is supported by) the hub as well as the studs. Lug-centric wheels have a larger

center hole than the hub (or axle protrusion) and are located by the lug nuts. •The X-Factor The X-Factor is the amount of clearance between the wheel and the disc brake caliper. This has become increasingly important with the popularity of large-diameter aftermarket brakes. •Lug Nut Style There are several different types of lug nuts available and it is very important to match them to the wheels being used. Conical seat lug nuts are available with 60- or 45-degree taper with 60 degrees being the most common—they are found on most OEM and aftermarket wheels. What’s called an ET-style lug nut also has a 60-degree conical seat with a short extended shank to allow for more thread engagement. Because 45-degree lug nuts have a wider surface contacting the wheel some racing organizations (such as NASCAR) require them. Shank-style lug nuts, often referred to as mag wheel nuts, have an extended portion that fits into straight holes in the wheel and uses flat washers. When using mag wheel lug nuts make sure the shanks are not so long that they bottom out against the hub. Also, when using any lug nut with a closed end, make sure the stud does not bottom out in the nut, as in both cases the wheel will be loose. Ball seat lug nuts look similar to the conical style, but their seating surface is rounded rather that straight— they are normally found on import vehicles. The important thing to remember is the lug nuts and wheels must be compatible. •Interpreting Tire Speak At one time about all there was on the sidewall of a tire was the brand name and size. When numeric tire sizing was used a 6.50-15 tire was 6.5 inches wide and fit a 15-inch wheel. Today there is much more information in the tire code found on the sidewalls: The first letter in the size code indicates the intended use of the tire. P stands for passenger vehicles; LT means light truck tire, vehicles towing trailers or have 3/4- and 1-ton


3 With the suspension at ride height the fixture is bolted to the hub and adjusted for the diameter of the wheel.

load capacity; ST stands for Special Trailer, as the name implies they are for trailers. If there’s no letter before the first number the tire is a metric or European load–rated tire. •Tire Size Using a P225/50R17 as an example, the P stands for passenger car; 225 is the tire’s section width from sidewall to sidewall in millimeters. The next number, 50 in this case, is aspect ratio or the percentage of the tire’s sidewall height compared to its width—50 means that the tire’s section height is 50 percent of the tire’s section width. The larger the aspect number, the taller the tire’s sidewall. •Construction A single letter indicates the internal construction of the tire: R is for radial tires, D is for tires built with diagonal plies (bias-ply construction). •Wheel Diameter This two-digit number specifies what size wheel the tire fits.

4 This is one of the four clamps that hold the tire in place. The fixture is adjusted to the suggested width for the tire, then the beads are clamped in place.

Load Index and Speed Rating Example: P225/50R17 98H The load index and speed rating come after the tire size. Load indicates the weight the tire can carry and is represented by a number that refers to a load index chart. In this case 98 indicates 1,653 pounds. Speed ratings are represented by letters, with the highest rating being Z. At the time this rating was devised 149 mph seemed adequate. But thanks to some supercars higher ratings of W and Y are now available (those letters had not been used before).

5 With support under the lower A-arms the car can be “jounced” to check fender clearance.


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With the assembly in place and fender clearance verified the wheel offset is measured.

Backspacing can be checked on the floor with the fixture removed.

Before removing the fixture and tire, the X-factor was doublechecked. Tire clearance is checked at full steering lock full left.

8

Rating Q S T U H V W Y Z

Maximum Speed 100 mph 112 mph 118 mph 124 mph 130 mph 149 mph 168 mph 186 mph Over 149 mph

•Tire ID The U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) requires that tires be identified by the letters DOT, followed by letters and/or numbers that identify the manufacturing location, tire size, and manufacturer’s code, along with the week and year the tire was manufactured. Since 2000, the last four digits of the code indicate the week and year the tire was produced—the first pair represents the week, the second pair indicates the year. Tires manufactured before 2000 used a three-letter code at the end of the id numbers; two numbers to indicate the week followed by a single number for the year.

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•Tire Grading NHTSA developed tests to grade tires in three areas: Treadwear: This is the wear rate of the tire compared to other tires offered by the same manufacturer, with 100 being the baseline number. A tire with a wear rate of 200 should last twice as long. Traction: Traction grades are AA, A, B, and C (with AA being the highest grade)—they represent stopping distance on wet pavement. Temperature: The temperature grades are A, B, and C from the lowest to the highest and indicate the tire’s ability to dissipate heat. •Replacement Due to Age Over the past few years many tire shops have begun refusing to mount, balance, or repair any tire that is over 6 years old. Although there is no law or regulation we have found that addresses this, the reason given for the policy is liability since a number of auto companies have suggested that tires be replaced after six years. Ironically several major tire manufacturers tell us that tires should be good for up to 10 years if they are not damaged.

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Here tire clearance is checked with the steering at full right.

When determining the width of a wheel the measurement is made inside the flanges. Diameter is also measured from the tire bead surface not the od flange.

11 Using the correct lug nuts is vital. This vintage aluminum wheel uses straight holes with flat surfaces for washers. Typical “mag wheel” lug nuts have straight shanks. It’s critical that the shank does not bottom out on the hub before the wheel is tight. Conical 60-degree lug nuts are commonly used with aftermarket wheels (top) or OEM steel wheels (bottom).

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feature

BIG BOSS

’LINER NASCAR-Blooded Bespoke ’60 Ford

BY JOHN GILBERT

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT MCGAFFIN

PREMIUM ROD OF THE MONTH


There are customized cars and then there are custom-made cars. The diference is a customized car still has the majority of its original chassis and drivetrain relatively intact, and a custom-made car is a body shell placed over the top of a completely revised new rolling chassis, complete with a fully upgraded engine and transmission. What we have here is a custom-made car. It was the irst year of Starliner production and there weren’t a lot of Ford Starliners made for 1960—only 68,641 to be exact. The fastback styling of the rooline was a product of NASCAR’s early streamlining wars and there only had to be so many examples built to satisfy homologation. And since a noteworthy percentage of the ’60 Ford Starliners found their way onto circle tracks and even the road course at Riverside Raceway it didn’t take attrition long to make a rare car scarce. OK, so there were a lot of ’60 Ford Starliners around back in the day, but try inding a decent example in the 21st century. Thanks to the ravages of the Rust Belt, car accidents, and frankly not a lot of mass public interest in preserving the model, a ’60 Ford Starliner in good condition these days isn’t that easy to ind. Nevertheless, Bobby Alloway, of Alloway’s Hot Shop, did know where to ind a really clean ’60 Ford Starliner, and the right client to commission the build: Enter Honda

dealer David Walsh of Macon, Georgia. David explained to STREET RODDER how Bobby called and said he had the perfect car for him, and that was all it took. Having commissioned Alloway in the past to custom build a car from scratch, David knew to stand back and let Alloway incorporate his signature touches to the ’60. The factory-painted Wimbledon White ’60 Ford Starliner Galaxie with a red interior and a 352-inch Ford V-8 FE engine was stripped to the bare shell and its original chassis

STREET RODDER ◆ JULY 2018

83


BIG BOSS ’LINER rolled out from under it. Then Alloway’s process began with setting the stance, the loorpan is cut out, and four BFGoodrich tires mounted on Alloway’s proprietary Billet Specialties wheels are placed under the empty shell that’s sitting at the desired stance on wood blocks. From here Alloway’s takes precise measurements and ires of an order to Art Morrison Enterprises (AME) in Fife, Washington, for a chassis. The vehicle maintaining a tight steering radius is always important when Alloway’s Hot Rod Shop constructs a car, but it’s easier said than done because Alloway’s Hot Rod Shop’s signature look is a slammed jackrabbit stance that doesn’t leave much room underneath. AME had to pinch the front framerails snug along the sides of the engine to make space for the front suspension with DSE spindles in order to turn sharp. On David’s ’60 Starliner the 17x7 front wheels are shod with 215/50-17 BFGoodrich tires, and in the rear 20x10 mounted with 275/55-20 BFGoodrich tires. The 13-inch 84

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER

disc brakes at all four corners are from Wilwood, with a Wilwood master cylinder on a Kugel Komponents pedal assembly applying unassisted (no brake booster needed) stopping power. Under what is likely the widest hood ever put on a car by Detroit is an engine that can trace its roots back to NASCAR’s 1969-1970 season. The Kaase Boss Nine is based on Ford’s Boss 429 and features improvements over the original design. In particular the famous-for-failing C9AE-6051 Cooper rings have been superseded with Fel-Pro head gaskets. The displacement on the built-to-Alloway’s-speciication Kaase Boss Nine is 505 inches that dyno’d 706 hp at 6,500 rpm with 630 lb-ft of torque at 4,900 rpm. The cam responsible in conjunction with Kaase Boss Nine aluminum cylinder heads is a COMP hydraulic roller custom ground to Kaase speciications. A pair of Edelbrock AFB carburetors sits atop a Blue Thunder dual-quad intake manifold modiied with a water crossover.


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BIG BOSS ’LINER A Lunati crankshaft and rods fastened with ARP parts, including an N.O.S. back glass. Dan’s Polishing in bolts suspend Diamond forged 9.8:1 pistons. Alloway’s Adamsville, Tennessee, did all of the chrome plating, smoothed the Bessel cast-iron four-bolt main block before including the front and rear bumpers tucked closer to the painting it PPG Alloway Black. Additional super detailing body. Major metalwork concealed from the eye by the includes Dan’s Polishing and Best Metal polishing the hood includes widened front inner fenderwells fabricated intake manifold and heads to a mirror inish. Ignition by Josh Bailey. Scotty Troutman was responsible for comes from MSD. Supporting a luxury convenience, a fabricating and installing the heavy steel loors and Billet Specialties Tru Trac front runner serpentine belt spraying PPG color. system drives a Vintage Air air-conditioning pump. The sexy XL interior option wasn’t ofered on the Ford Barillaro Speed Emporium was the source for headers Galaxie until 1962. Inside, on the Starliner’s deceptively and pipes with 3-inch exhaust coated in silver ceramic stock-appearing interior, Steve Holcomb’s Pro Auto by Gene Mobley at Performance Coatings. Liquid storage Custom Interiors added the feel of a Galaxie XL interior is accomplished via a Walker radiator and a 15-gallon by custom fabricating a center console complete with stainless steel gas tank from Rock Valley. a ball milled billet aluminum centerpiece. A white Running a manual transmission gear changes are headliner bounces light illuminating Lipstick Red handled with an American Powertrain–sourced TREMEC leather covering the custom-made backseat and ’65 Ford TKO 600 ive-speed mated to a Currie 9-inch rearend Thunderbird bucket seats. Other appointments include a with limited-slip. leather-wrapped Lecarra steering wheel on an ididit tilt The irst glaringly obvious clue a car was built by steering column, Lokar pedals, and Classic Instruments Alloway’s Hot Rod Shop is its lawless Alloway Black bespoke gauges. Underneath the carpeting there’s a paintjob. It took many hours of bodywork and prep Dynamat thermal acoustic mat to soak up the sounds and to get the ’60 into its PPG paint. Not to mention the heat. Vintage Air air conditioning keeps the ’60 Starliner time involved tracking down hard-to-ind N.O.S. trim cool and comfortable. •For the digital experience: https://bit.ly/2I69OmJ

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JULY 2018 x STREET RODDER


Hot Rods by Dean is handling construction of our United Pacific–bodied '32 Ford pickup. The Roadster Shop chassis rolls on Coker’s Firestone Deluxe Champions wrapped around black powdercoated steelies from Wheel Vintiques.

[TECH] F A B R I C A T E

A Classy Chassis for our Traditional Truck Part II: The 2018 United Pacific/STREET

RODDER Road Tour '32 Ford Pickup Presented by Ford Performance Parts

Q By Ron Ceridono QPhotography by Robert McGaffin & Brian Brennan

ince the inception of the Road Tour program we have built street rods from the ’20s-’60s in every conceivable configuration in an effort to reflect the scope of our hobby. This year the 2018 United Pacific/STREET RODDER Road Tour '32 Ford pickup Presented by Ford Performance Parts is bringing us back to our roots with the traditional combination of a closed-cab Deuce pickup and a solid-axle chassis. We’ve again called on the talents of Dean Livermore and the crew at Hot Rods by Dean (HRBD) to put it all together.

S

Under all the new sheetmetal is a chassis from Neal, Phil, and Jeremy Gerber’s Roadster Shop (RS). The frame is based on reproduction '32 ’rails that have been boxed their entire length, fitted with a Model A–style front crossmember, and a vintage style X-member for the ultimate in rigidity. 88

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER

To go with the build style of the truck we wanted a traditional dropped axle front suspension that would provide the smooth ride and excellent handling qualities so we turned to Pete and Jakes. They’ve been supplying solid axle suspension components for '28-'48 Fords since 1974 and know how to make

1 Pete and Jakes supplied the complete chromed front suspension, including a drilled Super Bell axle.

them work. To that end they supplied a complete chrome frontend kit with Super Bell I-beam, monoleaf spring, hairpin radius rods, Panhard bar, and tube shocks. The steering gear, shafts, and U-joints came from Flaming River. On the aft end of the frame is a polished Winters quickchange that’s held in place

by heavy-duty four-bars designed and built to fit the RS X-member and a Panhard rod that attaches to the rear axle’s centersection with a custom bracket. A smooth, controlled ride is guaranteed with the use of adjustable AFCO coilovers. When it came time to pick wheels and tires for our truck there was


no debate; Eric Black’s artwork nailed the look and Coker and Wheel Vintiques provided what we wanted. The tires are Coker Firestone Deluxe Champion blackwalls, 5.60-15 up front and 7.00-16 in the rear. After being discontinued by Firestone, Coker Tire acquired the molds, refurbished them, and after obtaining licensing agreements put these classic bias-ply tires back into production. To complete the look we were after the tires were mounted on Wheel Vintiques Gennie series wheels; 15x5 in front and 16x6 in the rear. Patterned after '40-'48 Ford wheels, they are offered in primer, various colors of powdercoating, all chrome, and chrome rim with a bare center, and are available in a variety of sizes and bolt patterns. The crew at HRBD has been busy building our Road Tour truck with their usual attention to detail and there will be some surprises along the way as well. Of course you’ll have to watch the pages of SR and streetrodder. com to find out what they are. In the meantime, start making plans to join us on the 2018 United Pacific/STREET RODDER Road Tour Presented by Ford Performance Parts.

Source It Coker Tire (800) 251-6336 cokertire.com Ford Performance Parts performanceparts.ford.com Hot Rods by Dean (800) 362-9709 hotrodsbydean.com Pete and Jakes Hot Rod Parts (816) 758-4504 peteandjakes.com Roadster Shop (847) 949-7637 roadstershop.com United Pacific (866) 327-5288 upauto.com Wheel Vintiques (800) 959-2100 wheelvintiques.com Winters Performance (717) 764-9844 wintersperformance.com


2 Pete and Jakes hairpin radius rods are made from stout 7/8-inch DOM seamless tubing. The threaded clevises allow caster to be adjusted.

3 At the rear of the hairpins are adjustable ends with urethane bushings for a long, squeakfree life.

4 During installation all the frontend components were coated with antiseize compound.


Driving Your Hot Rod Should Be A Pleasure. Billy & Debbie Thomas’ ‘39 Olds Built By Customs & Hot Rods Of Andice Stephen Kim Photo

5 Pete and Jakes spring perches are extra long to fit 2- or 2-1/4-inch axles and allow the installation of a lower shock mount.

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For over forty years our goal has been to bring all -season comfort a n d reliability to rod and custom enthusiasts. And we know t h a t installing air c o n d i t i o n i n g m ay s e e m complicated to the average car owner. But our factory trained distributors have years of experience guiding rodders through the simple steps of selecting just the right combination of system components and controls to complete your custom installation. If you have a good collection of hand tools and some experience with modifications, like a cam or carburetion, your installation will be a straight ahead project.

Vintage Air Systems Are Built To ISO 9001:2008 Quality Standards No matter what type vehicle you are wanting to air condition, Vintage Air has the experience and components to get the job done right. Plus, if you should need additional advice, we have a full time technical staff ready to help. Call today to discuss your project.

Complete Catalog Online At: 7 Pete and Jakes shackles are available for 1-3/4- and 2-1/4-inch-wide springs. They all come with long-life black urethane bushings.

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Gen-IV is a trade name of Vintage Air Inc.


9

Spindles are the '37-'41 style with round flanges. They use shorter kingpins than the later spindles with rectangular flanges.

11 Pete and Jakes tie rods have 11/16-inch/18 threads per inch leftand right-hand threads for early Ford-style tie rod ends. Jam nuts are used to secure the tie rod ends rather than stock-style clamps.

10

With the kingpins in place a tapered bolt through the axle locks them in place. Extended nuts secure the bolts and act as steering stops.

The hairpins are secured to the batwings with chrome bolts and lock nuts. The right batwing has a tab (arrow) the Panhard bar attaches to.

12

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The sparkling Pete and Jakes frontend assembled and ready to be installed. Note the spacers on the spring are used to adjust ride height and fill the front crossmember so the U-bolts and retainer will tighten against the spring.

Designed especially for hot rod use, Pete and Jakes shocks feature a hard chrome shaft to prevent rust and rubber bushed ends. They’re available with and without dust covers.

8

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Flaming River supplied the Vega box, Pitman arm, 36-inch polished stainless 3/4 DD shaft with polished stainless steel U-joints; 5/8-inch 36-spline x 3/4 DD at the steering gear with 3/4x3/4-inch DD at the column. (Note the angled filter adapter on the Ford Performance Parts 347-inch small-block.)

The draglink from the Flaming River cross-steer box and the tie rod attach to the right side Pete and Jakes steering arm. Note the Panhard rod connects to the right side batwing (arrow).

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JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER


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16 These are two of the frame brackets for the rear four-bar bars that RS welds to the X-member; note the tabs.

17 RS uses the tabs on the brackets to locate them precisely. This is the reinforcement plate for a lower four-bar that will be welded to the X-member (note the holes for the tabs).

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With the frame upside down, the right side four-bar brackets were welded to the frame.

With the frame right-side up, RS installed the hefty, adjustable four-bar links on the Winters quick-change axle housing.


20

21

The rear Panhard bar attaches to tabs on the frame and a custom bracket on the Winters quick-change housing.

Ride control in the rear is supplied by a pair of AFCO single-adjustable coilover shocks.

22

23

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DICK FLINT’S OTHER

MODEL A Hot Rod Pioneer Builds Another Winner

Chances are when you hear the name “Dick Flint” your mind automatically shifts to a bright red Model A roadster with a Europeaninluenced track nose that was on the cover of the May ’52 issue of Hot Rod. A channeled body, block tires out back, a tasteful tubular nerf bumper front and rear, and an Auburn gauge panel in the dash were some of the unique design elements that set this roadster apart from anything else out there at the time. Keep in mind Flint built his roadster during hot rodding’s infancy, starting on it while he worked for Alex Xydias at the original SO-CAL Speed Shop in Burbank in the late ’40s, the same time the famous SO-CAL belly tank and streamliner were going together. BY ERIC GEISERT

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR


•Dick Flint is more famous for his other Model A—a bright red roadster that was featured on the May ‘52 cover of Hot Rod (that’s Flint driving in the cover photo). But most folks didn’t know the car had a previous life as a dry lakes car, with its distinctive aluminum nose shaped by Valley Custom’s Neal Emory. The #196 on the door corresponds to the info on the SCTA timing tag that is still on the dash from June 11, 1948, when it ran 143.54 mph at El Mirage. Though he’s 91 years old, Flint says his 89-year-old coupe is “kinda old.”

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DICK FLINT’S OTHER MODEL A In 1950 he raced at El Mirage (running 143.54 mph in it), showed it in 1952 at the third National Roadster Show in Oakland (long before the “Grand” was added to the event’s name), trailered it with his dad back to one of the irst Detroit Autoramas and, on the way back, stopped at the Indy 500 to take in the race. After that he tooled around the open roads of Southern California for a few years until he decided to sell the car in 1961 (his irst wife wasn’t keen on it taking up garage space). But Dick’s hot rodding life wasn’t over at that point. While driving near his home in Southern California in 1969 he spotted a Model A Special Coupe in a driveway and knocked on the door to see if it was for sale. It had been damaged (a bent axle and front fender) but still drove, so Dick purchased it for $400. He’d drive it occasionally but, with the bent axle, it wasn’t that much fun, so it stayed in his garage for the next 30-plus years.

In the late ’90s his old roadster was restored by a new owner, Don Orosco, and shown at the 50th Grand National Roadster Show as well as the prestigious Pebble Beach concourse in 2001, where it won First in Class (with Orosco driving across the winner’s podium and Dick riding shotgun). In 2013 it was sold once more at an RM Auction in New York for $577,500! In 2001 Dick was 75 years old and he 98

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decided he’d like to go through his old coupe and make it a nice driver. Dick’s method of operation was always tear whatever car he owned right down to its individual panels, which is how he started with this ’29 Special Coupe, which soon revealed the car’s original color: Vagabond Green. There were only 18,000 or so Special Coupes, with their own #49A body designation and roof material that encompassed the

entire backlight area, built between July 1928 and July 1929. For the chassis, Dick used the original Model A ’rails, but had Dagel’s Street Rods add one of their X-members to beef things up and also “Z” the rear crossmember. A dropped I-beam axle and Houdialle shocks were used up front while a ’40 Ford rear went in out back. There are ’40 Ford drum brakes on each


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DICK FLINT’S OTHER MODEL A corner and Dick had Pico Wheel Company widen ’30 Kelsey Hayes wire wheels to 6- and 8-inch widths to accommodate the 205/60R16 and 245/75R16 BFGoodrich Advantage T/A Sport radial tires. Taylor Engines in Whittier, California, opened by Nelly Taylor back in the ’40s, was taken over by Jay Steele in the late ’50s and Jay was known for making Model T and Model A motors run fast. Dick had Steele go through his ’32 Model B four-banger adding a ’32 C crank, custom Taylor B rods, and re-sleeving the block for a set of JEP pistons. A custom-ground billet camshaft (using George Riley’s specs) was fab’d, and Isky 185G valvesprings with Riley rockers were used with a Riley four-port head from 1936. Up top a trio of Stromberg 97 carbs breathes through 4-inch-diameter air cleaners (with 3.75-inch-tall high-low elements), and a ’36 Ford V-8 water pump that was adapted to the banger, which helps cool the engine, along with a Derale fan and a Brassworks radiator. Rajo ends are itted to the

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ignition wires and the header (fab’d by Taylor Engines) works in conjunction with the exhaust made by Morse Mulers in Burbank. The motor mates to a Ford C4 transmission, assembled at Dagel’s Street Rods with a Gear Vendors overdrive and a shifter from Lokar. The body, which was still 40 years old when Dick bought it in 1969, was in decent shape but was stripped and disassembled to its individual panels. Metalmeister Coachworks in Ventura, California, headed up by Alan Potter, has done restoration work on many historic automobiles shown at the Concourse at Pebble Beach, and Dick contracted Potter to work on his Model A body. Once satisied with the inished work, the body was rolled into Bob Money’s garage in Burbank, California, where the car was again sprayed Vagabond Green with Rock Moss Green accents on the reveals, the fenders painted gloss black, the pinstriping done in a straw color, and the vintage Kelsey Hayes wheels covered in Tacoma Cream. The car was reassembled with stock ’29 Ford headlights, bumpers,

and dual taillights. The dash has its stock gauge cluster in its middle section (speedometer, odometer, amp, ignition), another panel holding the VDO speed and tach gauges over the steering column, and a mini gauge panel mounted above the driver’s kick panel that holds a water and oil pressure gauge. Ray “Babe” Kick, a friend of Dick’s for 65 years, wired the coupe using a Ron Francis wiring kit. The steering wheel is a stock ’29 Ford four-spoke unit, but the bench seat is new and comes from Glide Engineering, covered in gray vinyl by Charlie Feroze, who also recovered the Special Coupe’s roof. It took longer than he had originally thought it would to build his coupe (and a lot more money than when he built his irst roadster!) but Dick is glad it’s done and he’s able to drive it around. He doesn’t have any plans for it at the moment, but he readily admits that’s it’s a lot more fun building them than inishing them—spoken like a true hot rodder! For the digital experience: https://bit.ly/2IVQMjW


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STREET

SHAKER Chuck Vranas

Doug Schmidt’s ’41 Willys Gasser Rules the Streets xNothing generates an adrenalin rush better than the chance to get out and experience nitro-fused drag racing at your local racetrack. Couple that with some of the hottest cruise nights while also being able to catch hot runs from light to light to see who just might be the Saturday night favorite. That said, you’ve instantly got the best formula for getting indoctrinated into hot rodding. For Doug Schmidt of Cheektowaga, New York, it was natural for him to settle into the performance world from an early age, thanks to plenty of experience turning wrenches in the neighborhood on friends’ cars ’til he purchased his irst ride, a ’62 Chevy Impala SS.

From that point a number of hot street cars followed as his skills evolved, including several more Impalas, among others. It became a ritual to meet up with good friends, including Darryl Statchura, on weekend nights to cruise to Ja-Fa-Fa Hots on Harlem Road to see who had the hottest ride and to take in late-night street racing. There were also legendary visits to Lancaster Dragway to watch the some of the hottest Gassers run where the scent of nitro and rubber would leave a 104

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long-lasting impression on him. He and a group of friends eventually rented a local shop where they could build their hot rods and help each other out

on projects. Somehow, the memories of watching Gassers run always made his pulse race, so a search commenced to locate a suitable base to start with. Coincidentally, Statchura had recently purchased a tired old ’41 Willys Gasser pickup that used to run at Niagara Dragstrip back in the day. Wanting his friend to live the dream, a deal was made and the pickup changed hands, giving Doug the start he had hoped for. For a rock-solid base the original frame was stripped, boxed,

and treated to custom crossmembers and ballast mounts. Out back a ’57 Oldsmobile rear packed with 4.11 gears spins Moser Engineering 31-spline axles. It’s suspended in place by a combination of customfabbed 48-inch ladder bars with coil springs in custom pockets, Lakewood 50/50 drag shocks, and Panhard bar. Getting the mile-high stance right was paramount so a Speedway Motors Gasser kit was used, including their exclusive straight front axle, parallel leaf springs, and forged Ford-style spindles, along with matching tube shocks. When it comes time to tame the beast, a Ford dual master pushes juice through steel lines to Speedway Motors 11-inch discs up front and stock drums out back. To put the power down with style a set of vintage 15-inch ET wheels wear BFGoodrich rubber to get the message across. Every Street Shaker needs a wicked mill nailed to the ’rails so Doug contacted J&L Performance of Lancaster to assemble a stout 331ci small-block Chevy. The massaged base was illed with an Eagle crank linked to matching


forged rods wearing Mahle forged 11.5:1 pistons. A heavy thumps comes from a Crane hydraulic roller cam while Edelbrock aluminum heads generate plenty of power. Up top a vintage Edelbrock TR1X dual-quad tunnel ram wears a pair of Holley 450-cfm carbs mounted sideways on custom spacers topped with chrome air cleaners. An MSD ignition lights the ire with gases dumping through Speedway Motors fenderwell headers to a custom 3-inch exhaust with Flowmaster mulers by Stahu-n-Son Speed Shop. A hopped-up Chevy TH400 trans from B&M moves a searing 440 hp to a custom driveshaft from Denny’s. Bringing the steel back to life wasn’t a job for the faint of heart. The little truck had been thrashed hard through the decades, leaving it extremely beaten up. Doug worked with his brother, Glenn, fabricating replacement panels as well

as inessing the vintage steel back to perfection. The tilt iberglass nose also received a revival, along with fabbing new loors and restoring the pickup bed. They then set the gaps and blocked it to perfection. To make an impact Doug selected TCP Global Lime Firemist vibe and had Statchura

lay down the gloss, giving the truck back its glory. Ron Lasker of East Aurora then added the graphics accented by the re-chromed original rear tube bumper. Inside it’s all business, starting with a ’30s-era Ford dash illed with dials from Stewart Warner and a dash-mounted tach to monitor the vitals while steering moves through a vintage Superior wheel. An American Autowire harness was installed along with a four-point rollbar with shifts moving through a Hurst stick. Upholstery Unlimited of Depew cut down a pair of ’74 Corvette buckets and treated them to diamond-tufted black vinyl to accent the polished stainless door panels. Sadly Doug died last year and now his daughter Jess is at the wheel promising to keep shaking the streets of New York in his memory, and to us that’s very cool. For the digital experience: https://bit. ly/2pH3o6z.

STREET RODDER ◆ JULY 2018

105


EARLY

IRON By Tim Bernsau Photography by Dave Staab

for him. The inluence of Henry Ford, John Milner, and now Dave Staab just keeps growing. For more about Dave Staab’s ’30 Ford Model A coupe, visit: http://www. hotrod.com/articles/red-hothighboy-homebuilt-trophywinner/.

Dave Staab’s ’30 Ford Model A Coupe xJohn Milner’s coupe from the movie American Graffiti has inluenced thousands of hot rodders. One of them is Dave Staab from Vinton, Iowa, owner of this ’30 Model A. “When I saw the ’32 street rod in American Graffiti I knew I wanted to build something like that,” Dave told us. He found an original steel coupe body that had been chopped 3 inches. He continued by shaving the hinges, handles, trim, and emblems. Underground Art Studios painted the BFGoodrich tires on Boze coupe with Hot Hues Hot Specialties steering wheel Speedster wheels. Apple Red Candy and on a tilt column, cruise The injected 302 has been control, Vintage Air A/C, turned up the heat with bored and stroked to 349 lames graphics—and and a Pioneer audio system added an airbrushed image ci—and hot-rodded with a sweeten the ride. BBK Performance Parts SSI of Dave’s coupe on the “It has been a longtime intake manifold, throttle overhead console. coming,” Dave says, “but body, and cold air kit. The The body rides on certainly well worth it Ford AOD transmission is a Brookville Roadster now that I can take it out hooked to a Ford 9-inch Model A frame. Chassis and turn some heads!” goodies include the 4-inch with 3.70:1 gears. Now Dave is building a Two-tone gray leather dropped tube axle in front full-fendered Model A covers the ’94-’95 Mustang for a guy who saw his and a four-bar setup at buckets. Auto Meter Ultra highboy and asked Dave both ends. Dave mounted 205/50ZR17 and 285/60R18 Lite II gauges, a Billet to build something like it 106

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER

Classic Instruments Tech Tip: Tachometers Classic Instruments tachometers all have an analog pointer but the signal needed to operate them is digital. This confuses some people, especially those with Ramjet engines. The Ramjet engine computer provides both a digital and analog tachometer signal. The analog signal is a variable current signal. This signal has more electrical current at higher rpm. A digital signal is a series of electrical pulses. The digital signal has more pulses at higher rpm. Knowing that Classic Instruments tachometers (and also speedometers) require digital signals may help when installing new gauges, especially if using a Ramjet engine!

ÊWant to see your vehicle in Early Iron? Email your photos (at least 1 MB in size) and a paragraph telling us about you and the car to: tbernsau@enthusiastnetwork.com.


SHOP

MANUAL

Ron Ceridono

Better Late Than Never been redoing my ’41 Chevy pickup for the last 20 QcamI’ve years. I have a completely fresh 283 with lat tappet and I’m getting ready to ire it. I put it together about

10 years ago and I’m very concerned about wrecking anything during startup. What precautions should I take? Jef Wilks Old Saybrook, CT A. starting a new Aisn’tWhile engine after 10 years the ideal scenario, it

happens a great deal and it can be done without causing any damage— but there are some precautions to take. We’re going to assume that the engine isn’t equipped with dual or extremely high-pressure valvesprings (dampers are OK). If so the cam should be broken in with lighter single springs. The other assumption is the engine (particularly the cam and lifters) was coated with an appropriate assembly lube. Even so it would be a good idea to pull the intake manifold, rocker covers, push rods, and lifters, then coat them and the cam lobes with something like AMSOIL INC.’s assembly lube. The major concerns when breaking in a new engine is protecting the cam, lifters, and valvetrain along with helping the rings seat against the cylinder walls by allowing “controlled wear” to take

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C.

B. A. It’s hard to believe lifters could wear to this extent, but improper break-in procedures and using the wrong oil will make it happen B. This cam was destroyed during break-in for the same reasons as the trashed lifters. The fourth lobe from the top of the photo is almost gone. C. AMSOIL INC. offers a variety of high-zinc formulas for high-performance flat tappet engines. This is their Z-Rod synthetic oil available in 10W-30 and 20W-50.

place. With conventional honing techniques use a break-in lubricant that is slippery enough to protect the cam and lifters but not so slick that the rings won’t seat properly; that’s why synthetic oil is not normally recommended for break-in—the rings may not seat properly. Now, before anyone points out that many new car engines come with synthetic oil that’s because the factory uses a procedure called plateau honing, which allows the rings to seat

almost immediately. At one time the additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphate) was used in engine oil to prevent wear. However, due to emission concerns, the amount of ZDDP in the oil required to meet manufacturer’s warranty requirements has been reduced. That’s not a big deal for engines equipped with roller lifters, but lat tappets and cams are particularly vulnerable to excessive wear if the wrong oil is

used, especially during the break-in period. Fortunately there are a number of products, such as AMSOIL INC.’s break-in oil, that have been formulated expressly to protect those parts on startup and the irst few hundred miles. Be aware there are oil additives that contain ZDDP, however additives that are not expressly intended for break-in can inhibit ring seating at the expense of protecting the cam and lifters.

•To electronically submit questions to Ron Ceridono, email ron.ceridono@icloud.com


SHOP

MANUAL After illing the engine with break-in oil use a primer to spin the oil pump—you can make one out of an old distributor with the gear removed or buy one for the purpose. Remove the rocker covers and attach an oil pressure gauge to the engine, then spin the primer clockwise with an electric drill until oil pressure builds and oil appears in the rocker arms (you’ll also feel the resistance increase on the drill motor). It’s a good idea to turn the engine over slowly by hand with a breaker bar two revolutions or more during this process. Once the engine is primed, ill the carburetor either with an electric fuel pump or through the loat bowl vent(s) and set the timing so the engine will ire immediately—avoid cranking for a prolonged period. Once the engine ires bring the rpm up to 2,000-2,500; this is necessary to throw enough oil of the crank to lubricate the cam and lifters, their only source of lubrication. Check the timing at this speed and it should be in the 32- to 34-degree range and then run the engine for 20-30 minutes (your cam manufacturer may have speciic recommendations). Vary the speed of the engine, keeping it between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm, and it’s always a good idea to put a box fan in front of the radiator to help keep the engine cool, as you don’t want it to overheat. After the initial break-in period we always change the oil and ilter and reill with more break-in oil. Some balk at this because of the expense but we think it’s a small price to pay to get rid of any other contaminants that might have accumulated during assembly. AMSOIL INC. recommends a maximum of 1,000 miles on break-in oil—we usually suggest 500 miles. At that point it’s safe to go with the engine oil of your choice, however, you should consider a product that’s made especially for lat tappet cams, such as AMSOIL INC.’s Z-Rod.


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2000........................................................120 TCI ENGINEERING...................................................................................65 TANKS INC.................................................................................................116 TP TOOLS EQUIPMENT......................................................................124 TUFF STUFF PERFORMANCE ACCESSORIES........................118 UNITED PACIFIC INDUSTRIES INC..................................................47 U.S. RADIATOR.........................................................................................64 VIAMEDIC...................................................................................................121 VINTAGE AIR...............................................................................................91 WHEEL SMITH........................................................................................122 WHEEL 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PROFESSOR

HAMMER Replacing Wood With Metal I would like to thank you for a great column Q and sharing your vast knowledge. I am a retired automotive engineer with many years of

By Ron Covell

attaching the gutter to the edge of the roof. Jack Patterson Via the Internet

A

hands-on experience, and I love building hot rods. In many cases, I am always eager to learn something new and 1/16-inch thickness your writing and DVDs have helped to improve my tubing should be ine sheetmetal working skills. for replacing wooden I am building a “Dare to Be Diferent” ’34 LaFayette four-door sedan, built by Nash. The body is a “Seaman composite hardwood and steel body” in which most of the wood needs to be replaced. What gauge steel tubing would )Steel tubing comes in a wide range of sizes and shapes, but for some you recommend to replace odd-sized inner body structures you may have to make your own by welding together strips of sheet steel. the wood in the body? In the doors some of the wood structures. If you have to originally there was some is 3/4x1 inch, and there type of seam sealer between build hollow shapes from is no room for anything sheet stock this would be the gutter and the roof. larger. Some odd sizes the minimum thickness, Since there will be no and shapes may require fabrication from sheet stock. wood to nail the gutter to, although 14-gauge might I am trying to igure out a be used in areas where Would you use the same more strength would be good way to reattach it. I gauge metal for that? have thought about putting beneicial. There are a The second question I few areas where I would sealer behind the gutter have deals with the rain and MIG welding the nails go thicker, such as the gutter, which I would doorjamb areas, where the to the top from the inside. like to retain. The original door hinges and the latch I am concerned about the construction has a wood striker plates go. You want sealer burning during the support under the lower these to be very beefy, edge of the roof. The lower welding, allowing rust to edge of the roof sheetmetal start there later. My second so I’d step up to a full thought would be to solder 1/8-inch wall thickness in has a row of small slots the gutter to the roof after these areas, and anywhere punched through it. The else where you want the bracing is welded gutter, which is formed ultimate strength. inside. I am considering steel, has a row of nails Re-attaching your using a higher strength protruding from the back solder like a 70-30. I would rain gutter is a pretty side. The gutter efectively appreciate any suggestions challenging problem. “nails” the three pieces I think your idea of you might have for together. When assembled

soldering the driprail into place is probably the best plan. When doing soldering of this nature, you tin each part separately, then align the parts, heat them gently, and low some more solder into the joint. If the body is in its normal orientation, gravity makes it difficult to hold the gutter tightly against the body. It might be better to rotate the body on its side, so gravity will help hold the gutter against the body. There are rotisseries that are great for rotating bodies, or in a pinch you could probably roll the body gently over on its side, using an old mattress to cushion it. Solder is designated with the tin content irst and the lead content second, so the 30-70 solder commonly used on autobodies is 30 percent tin and 70 percent lead. This lead-rich solder is designed to stay in a plastic state over a broad temperature range, to make it easy to paddle into shape, and it is not as strong as 50-50 solder. I’m conident that 50-50 will be ine for your application. For example, millions of radiators and gas tanks have been held together with nothing more than 50-50 solder.

³ You can email your questions to Professor Hammer at covell@cruzio.com, or mail a letter to Covell Creative Metalworking, 106 Airport Blvd., Suite 105, Freedom, CA 95019. You will receive a personal reply. Ron Covell has made many videos on metalworking, and they can now be STREAMED or DOWNLOADED from his website! Check these out at covell.biz, along with his ongoing series of workshops held across the nation, or call for a current schedule of workshops and a free catalog of DVDs. Phone (831) 768-0705. Also, check out Ron’s YouTube channel: www.youtube.com/user/covellron.

130

JULY 2018 xSTREET RODDER


2018 07 01 street rodder  

I have spent the last 22 years crisscrossing our beautiful country and have been fortunate enough to visit some amazing places over the yea...

2018 07 01 street rodder  

I have spent the last 22 years crisscrossing our beautiful country and have been fortunate enough to visit some amazing places over the yea...

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