Page 1


Contents Acknowledgments

8

Introduction

12

Equipment

20

Ingredients

26

Beef

32

Lamb

128

Pork

176

Rabbit

258

Poultry

278

eggs

334

side Dishes

358

Sources

367

Bibliography

371

Conversion Charts

375

Index

376


Pork Loin stuffed with Armagnac and Prunes this classic French combination of pork stuffed with Armagnac

Bring the meat to room temperature, rinse it, and blot it dry.

and prunes is especially wonderful with pastured heritage pork

Heat the oven to 450°F, and set the rack in the center. Choose

breeds. Perfect dinner-party fare, each slice is a work of art. An

a roasting pan or cast-iron pan that is about the size of your

herb-crusted ring of meat surrounds a dark and luscious core of

piece of meat (if it is too big, the juices will all evaporate or

fruit; each slice is then drizzled with a rich pan sauce. My particu-

burn). Soak the prunes in 1⁄2 cup of the Armagnac for about

lar pork loin roast was on the small side and came both boned and

15 minutes, or until they are fairly soft.

tied, but tied is not essential. If your roast is larger, just adjust

Using a long, sharp-pointed knife, make a cut down

the cooking time accordingly by leaving the high temperature

the center of the meat, from one end to the other, pushing

portion at 35 minutes, but cooking longer at the lower tempera-

straight down. Repeat, making a second cut at right angles to

ture—as ever, your primary decision-making tool should be the

the first, so that the two cuts form a cross in the center of the

thermometer. See page 00 for tying instructions.

pork cylinder.

s e rv e s 4 t o 6

the handle into the center of the cross-cuts, pushing down-

Using a wooden spoon with a thick handle, insert

3 pounds boneless pastured pork loin roast

2 tablespoons Herbes de Provence Blend (page 00)

15 dried prunes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1⁄2

cup plus 2 tablespoons Armagnac 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons water 3 tablespoons heavy cream

ward from one end to the other, to create a hollow opening the length of the meat. Enlarge the opening by moving the handle in a small circle to make an even cavity up the center of the roast. Remove the prunes from the Armagnac (reserving the liquid) and stuff them into the cavity, using the spoon handle to poke them down. When the meat is filled with prunes, lay it in the pan. Pour the olive oil onto the pork and rub it in on all sides. Sprinkle the Herbes de Provence and then the salt and pepper all over the meat. Pour the reserved Armagnac around the roast, taking care not to wash off the herb coating. Roast the meat for 35 minutes, or until the meat starts to brown and crisp, then reduce the heat to 375°F. Continue to roast until the internal temperature of the meat is 145–150°F, about 15 minutes longer for a 3-pound boneless roast. Add a little water to the pan if the Armagnac begins to evaporate.

P o R k

L o i n

When the meat is cooked, transfer it to a board to rest for at least 15 minutes. Meanwhile, deglaze the roasting pan over medium heat with the remaining Armagnac mixed with the water, scraping the pan to incorporate the juices and browned bits. When this has reduced by half, turn off the heat and briefly

p o r k

stir in the cream. Serve the warm slices of meat, with sauce

4

spooned artfully over each.


B e e f

f a r m

t o

f o r k

5


6

f a r m

t o

f o r k B e e f


Roast turkey with Ancho Paste and Maple Coffee sauce this is unstuffed, simple, straight-up roast turkey, that achieves

Bring the turkey to room temperature, rinse it, and blot it

surprising new heights with a rub of chile and this unforget-

dry. Whirl the spices and salt together in an electric spice

table deep maple coffee sauce topping. The spice rub is liveliest

grinder or combine the already ground spices. Stir the spices

if you grind the chiles and cumin yourself, but it will also work

with the oil to make a p aste and rub it all over the turkey,

with already ground spices. Try grating a little bitter chocolate

inside and out. Massage it in to every nook and cranny. Let

over the turkey when you serve it—Thanksgiving (or any other

the turkey sit at room temperature for about 1 hour to allow

turkey day) may never be the same! This is one of our favorite

the flavors to penetrate. Heat the oven to 325°F and set the rack in the lower

recipes in this book.

third. Arrange a roasting rack inside a roasting pan large s e rv e s 6

enough to hold the turkey, and put the bird on the rack,

For the turkey:

For the sauce:

breast side down. Roast the turkey, feet facing the back oven

8- to 9-pound pastured turkey

1⁄8

teaspoon ground cloves

wall, for about 1 hour, then turn the bird breast side up and

2 tablespoons ancho chile powder

roast it until the internal temperature registers 155°F on an

1⁄4

cup brown sugar

the thigh. This should take about 2 hours and 20 minutes in

1⁄2

cup hot, strong coffee

total. If the bird starts browning too much on the breast, tent

2 dried ancho chiles, or 3 tablespoons ancho chile powder 3 tablespoons paprika 3 teaspoons cumin seeds, or 3 teaspoons ground cumin 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1⁄2 1⁄4

cup extra-virgin olive oil

cup maple syrup or honey

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1⁄4

cup grade-B dark maple syrup

instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of

it loosely with silver foil. Baste the turkey as needed, using the fat and juices in the pan. When the bird hits 160°F, increase the oven temperature to 375°F and pour the maple syrup over the breast to

4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) butter, cut into small pieces

give the skin a sweet glaze. Cook for another 10 minutes,

1 tablespoon grated bitter chocolate (optional)

then remove the bird from the oven and let it rest.

check to be sure the internal temperature has reached 165°F, Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. Mix the spices and sugar, coffee, Worcestershire sauce, and maple syrup together in a saucepan and heat to a boil, stirring. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter. Keep the sauce warm over lowest heat until you are ready to serve, or leave it, covered, off the heat in a warm kitchen. Whisk the sauce again before drizzling it over the turkey or passing it at the table, grating the bitter chocolate over the meat on a serving t u R k e y

platter, if desired.

p o u l t r y 7


D E B O R A H K R A S N E R is a writer and food professional living in Vermont. She hosts culinary vacations in Italy and Vermont, which have been featured in GQ, Bon Appétit, and the Boston Globe. She appears regularly on NPR’s The Splendid Table and contributes to Bon Appétit and Real Simple, among other publications.

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