Highsnobiety Magazine 04 - Summer 2012

p r eface

Believe it or not, but we are now at our fourth print issue and more excited than ever before.

Never would I have thought that I would learn this much from creating a magazine.

While online, everything is about being first, I do enjoy very much being able to take my time with all the production involved with working on a print magazine. We step it up big in this issue in terms of photo production and have worked with an amazing set of photographers. Working with such talented people, witnessing the process, and then seeing the final result is just incredible.

One of our main goals, both online and in print, is to ensure that we truly cover a complete lifestyle. Just a few years back, we would primarily report about the essentials of the wardrobe. These days, we make sure that everything we consider part of our lifestyle is included in our reporting, including music, fashion, art, gadgets, auto and beyond.

Widening our horizon has been a great journey and hopefully you will see those changes in

these very pages. For this new issue we had the privilege to work with some outstanding brands, including Carhartt, Cash CA, Acronym, White Mountaineering, Stussy, Nike, and adidas to name a few. As we once again get close to the fairs and fashion/market weeks around the globe, we want to ensure that you know "now" what will be arriving at your favorite stores in the following weeks and months.

As much as we cover the brands and people that you already know, I believe that there are also quite a few surprises in this issue. For me personally, that is what makes a strong magazine; you want to find out new things and get to know new people and places that you might not have come across before. We hope you agree.

Enjoy the new issue, spread the word and make sure to give us feedback as you see fit.

All the best, David Fischer

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h t t p : / / w w w. h i g h s n o b i e t y. c o m / w o r k o u t 2 5

con t en t

lo o k 27

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sissy gรถtze

urban monoliths

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96

acronym

she's bag

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146

meat market

beasty summer

read |

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104 interior

muttonhead

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seoul

137

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106 jr

ownwer operator

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denim demon

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108 jonone

canada goose

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eat & drink

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109

a kind of guise

watches

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111

freunde von freunden

gadgets

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116

85

dirty dirty me

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140 142

tripple aught design

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144 outlier

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cars

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118

drivers

carhartt wip

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154

contemporary noise

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160 sound

H I g hsnobie t y |

p r in t iss u e 4

contributors Winter 2012 / Issue # 4

Yves Borgwardt Born in Germany and currently living in Berlin, Yves Borgwardt has a short yet impressive career behind himself. After working as an assistant, he started his commercial photography career in 2008. Yves shot our cover story in this issue. http://www.yvesborgwardt.com

taste |

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Greg Hervieux

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editors choice

CASH CA Japan

adidas Originals

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white mountaineering

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24 foot wear

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converse auckland racer

Daniel RochĂŠ

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Carhartt Heritage

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Paulrose Products

Le berlinois

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www.bkrw.com

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Stussy x master-piece

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After founding one of the most successful French streetwear brands in the 90s, Greg Hervieux today runs the BlackRainbow online magazine, store and creative agency. Most of the time though, you will find art lover Greg making bold moves in support of his new favorite artists.

http://www.danielroche.de

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Soohang Lee

g-shock

Born and raised in Seoul, Soohang Lee has been based in NYC for over a decade already.

As part of her recent Seoul trip, she produced a comprehensive recap of the city's rising creative scene for us.

3x1

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preface

While still being a student, Daniel RochĂŠ was contracted by a renowned photo agency, resulting in an explosive rise for the 25 year old photographer. Known for his staged photography, the campaign for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week with German top model Eva Padberg, remains to be one of his best known works.

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162 imprint

www.soohanglee.com

edi t o r s choice

BBB S p o r t & S t r e e t x STARTER www.breadandbutter.com

NE X US V II x J AM HOME MADE www.nexus7vn.com

EDITORS Comme des GarÇons New Perfume www.comme-des-garcons.com

The Impossible Project x colette www.colette.fr

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edi t o r s choice

DITA x Thom Browne www.dita.com

Made by Monsters x P o w e l l P e r a lt a www.garageworksindustries.com

CHOICE L e s At e l i e r s Ruby www.ateliersruby.com

C.E www.cavempt.com

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edi t o r s choice

Best Made Co. J a pa n e s e H i g o K n i f e www.bestmadeco.com

Keics KC 3 C a m e r a C a s e www.keics.com

EDITORS va h r a m m u r at ya n : pa r i s v e r s u s n e w y o r k www.amazon.com

S wat c h New Gents 2012 www.swatch.com

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edi t o r s choice

Comme des GarÇons i Pa d P o r t f o l i o www.comme-des-garcons.com

Dior Homme www.diorhomme.com

CHOICE Pa u l S m i t h L o n d o n 2 0 1 2 O ly m p i c G a m e s www.paulsmith.co.uk

Louis Vuitton T r a c k i n g Pa c k www.vuitton.com

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Text PETE WILLIAMS

White Mountaineering Spring 2012

Combine one dose of street, two cups of mountain gear and a dash of high-fashion and you'll find White Mountaineering. More or less everything we covet in a clothing label is evident in Japan's White Mountaineering: from tech-fabrics, progressive cuts and interesting materials to cool collabs, fun accessories and head-turning footwear, you'll find it all. Examples include the hooded denim jacket that matches up to a backpack produced in collaboration with Porter. Hard to find and pricey too, but absolutely worth the investment. http://whitemountaineering.com

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Text PETE WILLIAMS

Stussy x master-piece Spring 2012

For Spring 2012 Stussy continues their impressive collaborative campaign with the Japanese luggage experts at Master-piece. While Japan's Porter label deservedly receives a ton of shine, Master-piece is our preferred Japanese carry goods export. With the Stussy Deluxe stamp of approval and a rang of eye-catching colors and patterns, the Japanese produced bags, cases and small accessories have seen wider distribution, and with it, a new crop of fans. This is an example of a collaboration well executed. http://www.stussy.com

Text PETE WILLIAMS

Paulrose Products Spring 2012

Paulrose Products was originally founded by Paul Svarc in 1960 as a real Canadian workwear brand. Named after himself and his wife Rose, the label was built for Quebecois workmen who had to face tough conditions, including brutal Canadian winters. In the 1980s, Paul moved his offices north, from downtown Montreal to an area now known as the "Shmata business." Around that time, the Paulrose Products brand was abandoned for other product lines and brands.

After Paul Svarc passed away about a year ago, his grandson, and Naked & Famous founder, Brandon Svarc came across an old metal and wood Paulrose die. When he saw it, he knew he had to create a reproduction of the Paulrose Products brand in his grandfather's honour. Today, the Paulrose (and Naked & Famous) offices, warehouse and factory are located in the very same building Paul Svarc moved to in the 80s, where garments are produced to the highest quality standards using fine Japanese fabrics and traditional manufacturing techniques. http://www.paulroseproducts.com

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3x1

3 x 1

Text DAVID FISCHER Photo robert Wunsch

After founding paper Denim & Cloth (1999) and Earnest Sewn (2004), designer Scott Morrison went on to create 3x1, an entirely new concept in denim. Housed at 15 Mercer Street in New York City's SOHO district, all 3x1 jeans are created on site and tailored to the specific needs of each customer as "limited edition," "custom made" or "bespoke." ""Limited edition" refers to the styles on display in runs of 8, 12, 16, or 24, to be hemmed and finished with button and rivets of the customer's choosing. "Custom made" option includes time with a fit expert to determine preference of

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back pockets, fabric and thread theory. A "bespoke" denim service is also offered, allowing patrons to work individually with Morrison and his pattern-maker to create his or her own pair of jeans from start to finish. The fabric selection offered to customers consists of more than 70 unique selvedge denims from around the world for men and as many as 65 varieties of denims and twills specific to women."

We have seen a lot of trends in the denim world come and go in recent years, nevertheless the jeans still remains the staple item in everybody's wardrobe. 3x1 does not only sell jeans, but it

sells knowledge, history and the experience of being involved from start to finish in a product that you will be wearing day in and day out.

The connection that each customer builds up to their pair of 3x1 by being involved in the creation process is certainly unique and for many worth the extra buck.

Make sure to visit the store and denim gallery in New York on your next trip to the Big Apple. http://www.3x1.us

cash ca

CASH CA J a pa n Spring 2012 Text PETE WILLIAMS

Traditionally a women's cashmere brand from England, CASH CA recently launched an impressive Japan-only mens division.

Helmed by imitable Japanese streetwear designer Kazuki Kuraishi, the collection is one of the most exciting new men's brands out.

For Spring 2012, highlights include a collaborative Jute-soled chukka boot produced

by Keds, a two-tone mountain pack, a seam sealed shell jacket and a leather band watch

by Jam Home Made. Outside of Asia, you can only find this label at The Hideout, London. http://www.cashca.jp

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foo t wea r

NE X US V II x GEORGE CO X www.nexus7vn.com

Converse b y J o h n Va r vat o s www.converse.com

foot V a n s V a u lt x Ta k a H aya s h i vault.vans.com

Gourmet The Cinque 2 Low | The 35 www.gourmetfootwear.com

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foo t wea r

N e w B a l a n c e CM 9 9 7 M a d e i n USA www.newbalance.com

Nike Lunar F l o w PRM www.nikesportswear.com

wear adidas Originals

by Jeremy Scott www.adidas.com/originals

Bape x Dr. Martens www.bape.com

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AuTumN / WINTER 2012 / 13 JANuARY 18-20 / 2012 NEW LOCATION KÜhLhAuS KREuZBERG LuCKENWALDER STRASSE 3 10963 BERLIN

AIRBAG CRAFTWORKS A2 ALLY CAPELLINO AmBIvALENT BELLA O BASTIAN BILLY AND I CLARKS ORIGINALS WITh vELOuR CORNELIA WEBB DENIm DEmON DIEmmE EBBETS FIELD FLANNELS ETuDES FORGOTTEN FuTuRE FRED PERRY LAuREL WREATh hOWLIN BY mORRISON INDIGOFERA JACK FLYNN JOFAmA JOhN SmEDLEY JOSEFIN STRID KITSuNÉ TEE LAuREL WREATh X BLANK CANvAS LAuREL WREATh X RIChARD NICOLL LE FIX mADE IN EuROPE mANASTASh mISERICORDIA mONO OuR LEGACY PARADISE FOuND PATRICK mOhR PERCIvAL PETER NON PhONZ SAYS BLACK POP CPh PROJET NumERO DEuX QhuIT QWSTION RAW POWER ROKIN R.T.CO SANDQvIST SIXPACK FRANCE SKARGORN SOPOPuLAR SOuLLAND STuTTERhEIm STYLEIN SuRFACE TO AIR SYDNEY BROWN ThE LOCAL FIRm ThE WhITE BRIEFS ThREE OvER ONE Thvm TWENTY(2)TOO uNDER vANIShING ELEPhANT vEJA vELOuR

WWW.SEEKEXhIBITIONS.COm

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SISSI GOETZE Photography RobeRt Wunsch Photo Assistance stePhAnie Meine styling AnnA RรถhRig / blossom hair & Make up tAn Vuong / basics Retouch siMon geis / recom Model JAn / promod

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After graduating in fashion design from HTW Berlin and receiving a MA in menswear design from Central Saint Martins College in London, German designer Sissi Goetze is now based in Berlin running her own label.

The surgical take on fashion that she already presented during her graduate collection continues into her more recent lines, always offering a minimal, modern presentation of menswear with youthful, yet sophisticated elements.

On the following pages we present the Sissi Goetze Spring/Summer 2012 Collection.

Staying true to her trademark style, she presents clean lines, a lot of tonal outfits and just an overall sharp take on menswear.

Fortunately we found the perfect model to stand in contrast to Sissi's style, highlighting her signature looks of the season. http://www.sissigoetze.com

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f r on t l inesho p

Carhartt H e r i ta g e Back to the Roots

o n l i n e e x c l u s i v e o n f r o n t l i n e s h o p. c o m Text DAVID FISCHER

In the mid 90s Carhartt USA gave out a license to Work In Progress in Germany, who made it their goal to create a fashion line based on the heritage and legacy of the original brand.

No one can argue that they did not succeed, as the Carhartt line has become a huge hit all over Europe, now also making it into the rest of the world.

With the rising trend of heritage goods and brands with a history in recent years, Carhartt decided to go back to its roots and introduced the Carhartt Heritage Collection - classic

silhouettes and classic materials are brought back to life with a capsule premium offering every season.

Distribution of the Carhartt Heritage line is kept very tight, ensuring for the premium products to sit in the right stores, next to the right brands. For online, Carhartt has chosen frontlineshop as their exclusive partner for the Heritage line. The long standing friendship by the two and as a follow-up to a special collaborative collection, that was launched Fall 2011 for the 25th anniversary of the online store, this new team-up only made sense.

http://www.frontlineshop.com/carhartt-heritage 34

modernizing in the

Seoul is an odd place. For Western travelers unfamiliar with Northeast Asia, it might not look as exotic as the Asia they imagine. It's a heavily industrialized place with insanely fast evolving technology. When you were fumbling around with your Motorola Razrs and Vertu's, Korean teenagers were already watching their favorite music videos on their way to school in the subway. Koreans are expected to get 1gbps broadband connections by later this year, as well as 5G networks in most places in Seoul. So, this is not that exciting. But it's the culture and the people that makes it really weird. I think it's the mix of deeply imbedded confucianism and the isolation.

seoul Text and Photo Soohang Lee

When I asked Anteok, one of the guys featured, to say something about Seoul, he said it's a city that's modernizing in the most awkward way, and I think that's a pretty accurate description.

But something being a little off and weird is just so natural about this place.

I always thought that Seoul was a fashionable city, but it's only in the last few years that it has become "fashionable" in the global sense. Now I think everyone dresses really well; this is how I felt about Tokyo a decade ago. I actually miss being in Seoul five years ago when some people were still rocking flared jeans, and sweatshirts with slogans written in bad English.

m o s t aw k wa r d way

Right now is an exciting time for Seoul, because as far as DIY creative scenes and subcultures go, we're still developing. There's no place like NYC, but you have to admit that the chances of things even remotely as cools as the days of CBGB's, hip hop, Studio 54, and even no-wave happening again are pretty slim, though the same could be said about any major city. In that aspect, Seoul, the Korean capital since 1394, is still a baby. There is an immense creative force stirring and small studios are popping up in every alleyway despite sky high rents. So, the people I've selected are only some of the people in the center of this momentum.

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seo u l

A n t e o k / D e s i g n e r o f S p e c tat o r At just three years old, Anteok's men's sportswear brand, Spectator, has already earned critical praise for the designer's thoughtful use of high quality materials. All of his clothes come with a blank label inside, where he hand writes the name of the customer

and the edition number of the specific item. Being the first part of his five brand project, Spectator is the outline for the remaining four and will be comprised of 99 designs that are built to last.

http://anteok.com

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seo u l

S o o k i M i n / O w n e r o f MSK Hiding on the top floor of a cosmetic surgeon's office building is MSK shop (pronounced something between 'mesk' and 'musk'), the go-to place to get to know the best of contemporary Korean men's fashion. While other retailers are about bringing

the hottest items of the season from all over the world, Sooki Min, buyer/proprietor of MSK, wants to provide a space for the underappreciated local talents who put a high value on quality and craftsmanship.

http://www.mskshop.net

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seo u l

B r o w n - b r e at h / J ay, I n j a e , K e u n b a i k Brownbreath's flagship store in Hongdae area of Seoul, is one of those shops like in every other city that you pass by, and seemingly there is always guys out front talking in slang and smoking cigarettes.

You can't tell if they're hanging, working, or just loitering. You can't help but wonder what they're about. Once inside, it becomes clear that these guys are not just some slackers. Everything about their projects exemplify DIY done right, creating every

aspect of their lifestyle brand themselves from the product, interior, to their ad campaigns. But it is their commitment to social justice that really makes them stand out. From Injae's work as a regular volunteering lecturer at an alternative school, to Keunbaik's outspoken graphics, they are proving that work can be fun, and commercial success can be achieved without compromising integrity.

http://www.brownbreath.com

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seo u l

Jinsil Jinsil never thought that she'd want to become a singer. The only reason she applied to a music school was because she didn't like to study, but we're glad about that. In person she is a soft spoken beauty and her favorite thing to say is "I don't like that" followed by a shy smile. But when she

sings, her distinctive soulful voice sweeps you off to an unknown place, in kind of a Thom Yorke sort of way. In 2010, she finally received the attention she's long deserved with her closing track for the Korean box office hit of the year "The Man from Nowhere."

http://madsoulchild.com

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seo u l

Jihee Han & JoSeub Seoul is a city divided by a river, and the residents of the banks are as different as it gets. At a first glance, Jihee Han and Joseub seem like the personifications of the opposite aspects of each side of the river. Jihee is a quintessential South bank girl - a respected fashion magazine editor, always dressed flawlessly with porcelain skin and proper manners.

Joseub, an artist known for his politically charged, art populaire-inspired imagery on the other hand, is all about practicality and informality – the typical vibe of the North bank. But if you pay close attention, you will notice something harmonious about the couple. It's hard to explain, but there's a comfort in their contrasting personalities.

http://sure.joinsmsn.com http://joseub.com 40

seo u l

C o v e r n at / J J L e e , H y u n g s e o k Y u n , J a e h a n C h o i Covernat showroom is located only a few minute walk away from Garosugil – the main shopping street of the South bank. But it feels like it's a world away. It's a quiet residential house remodeled to resemble a cabin in the woods, with exposed brick walls, and taxidermy deer heads on the wall. All this contained in a typical Korean style 'Western' house structure makes it strangely

exotic and comforting at the same time. The same can be said about the brand. Covernat is a mens sportswear line, taking inspiration from early 20th century American workwear, and reinterpreting it in their own unique way. The director Hyungseok Yun wants their clothes to last a lifetime, and the showroom to be a resting stop for tired urbanites, even if they don't buy anything.

http://covernat.net

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seo u l

So Yeon Kim The world of K-pop is a mammoth of a machine, manufacturing one perfectly sculpted and coiffed teenage pop star after another. It's no secret that its trainees and stars work until the verge of exhaustion, but little is known about the people behind the scene. As a young stylist, So Yeon Kim was asked by the styling duo of the mega pop group 2NE1 to join their team. To be part of the creative team behind one of Asia's most imaginative pop groups was an incredible adventure, but

months of 3-hour sleep proved too much. So she called it quits and soon was recruited by a couple of ambitious people to help open a new shop in the Itaewon district, on North bank of the Han river. Product is the latest (and welcome) addition to the growing number of impeccably curated concept stores in this part of Seoul. This is where Soyeon spends her days as the visual merchandising director, while steadily growing her reputation as a solid tastemaker.

http://product-seoul.com

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seo u l

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7

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6

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4 1. View of Seokchon Lake from my friend's apartment.

2./6. A plant shop in Central Seoul.

3. That's the steepest hill in the residential part of Sinsa area in the South bank. This area is generally flat.

4. Yang jaecheon, a stream that flows through the Southern half of Seoul.

5. A quiet road in the Northern part, which is the traditional, older area of the city. Straight ahead is Namsan Mountain and Seoul Tower.

7. (center) One of the gates to Gyeongbok Palace, the royal palace constructed in 1394.

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denim demon

DeNi m

mon

De

Text Nick schonberger Photo jens andersson

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denim demon

Fashion is no stranger to Stockholm. Or, perhaps more accurately, Stockholm is no stranger to fashion.

So many of the brands and shops we cover live and breath in the Swedish capital. Given our familiarity with Stockholm's menswear scene, we wanted to dig into local culture more directly and more concretely. As such, this photo-editorial focuses attention on a local restaurant of note, Svartengrens.

Stockholm is no stranger to fashion Owned by Head Chef GĂśran Svartengren and Martin Idestrand, the restaurant is located on Tulegatan 24, nestled neatly at the corner of a quiet intersection.

We captured the duo going about their daily business, sourcing foods locally and preparing for nightly service.Â

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Days begin with a visit to the meat supplier Days begin with a visit to the meat supplier, on the Archipelago of Stockholm, who raises animals on nearby islands. Once selected, the cuts of beef and lamb return to Tulegatan where they are aged for a minimum of nine weeks. Svartengren and Idestrand are very much part of the slow food movement.

The restaurant itself has a healthy, but quiet buzz.

Enjoyment of life, and local flavor is paramount.

The values espoused by Svartengren are shared by another local company, Denim Demon.

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Founded five years ago, by brothers Anton and Oskar, Denim Demon has a simple mission, "To protect and nurse the blue jeans' heritage."

They do so with equal affection for Swedish, particularly native Sami, culture. With one eye to a global workwear icon, and another to local tradition, Denim Demon produces jeans of simple distinction. The line includes shirts, sweaters, and the occasional boot. In short, Denim Demon makes a uniform for a man that privileges things done the right way, with proper attention to detail and a celebration of function.

denim demon

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It makes sense, given those truths, that Svartengren and Idestrand model Denim Demon.

The brand serves as their uniform anyway (and outfits the employees at the restaurant), and the connection is forged through mutual appreciation of a slow, well appointed lifestyle.

This is Stockholm as the locals live it.Â

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we protect and nurse the blue jeans' heritage

http://www.denimdemon.se http://www.svartengrens.se

ea t & d r in k

Nam Cao Hoai

www.dudu-berlin.de

We teamed up with Nam Cao Hoai, the owner and chef of one of our all time favorite Berlin restaurants - DUDU. Not only does DUDU serve some of the finest fusion Vietnamese/Asian cuisine in town, it has also become a meeting point for Berlin's creative industry. With Nam's love and passion for food, he was the perfect candidate to give us some tips on where to eat and drink around the globe.

EXPERIMENTAL

KONG Situated at 1, Rue du Pont Neuf in Paris, on the top floor of its building, KONG presents crossover Asian fusion food. Entirely designed by Philippe Stark, the interior, the beautiful view over Paris and the food all impress.

Also make sure to not miss the excellent bar. www.kong.fr

One of my favorite cocktail bars in Paris is Experimental at 37, Rue Saint Sauveur. Over time it has become a hotspot. I can actually not recommend a specific drink, but the best is to just let the guys do their job and let them surprise you.

For good reasons it ranks among the best cocktail bars in the world. www.experimentalcocktailclub.com

CARNE If you love Italian food and meat, then you have to go to Carne in Cape Town on your next South Africa trip. Restaurateur Giorgio Nava runs a farm, where he produces his own Italian-South African beef, which he serves at Carne. The Keerom Street restaurant has a great warm wooden interior and natural light concept. www.carne-sa.com

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WALLSE In New York I love going to WallsĂŠ. Located at 344 West 11th Street, they give an elegant spin to the otherwise traditional Austrian cuisine.

A simple interior, infused with great art, and superb food ended up getting the restaurant a Michelin star for 2012. www.wallse.com

a k ind of g u ise

A KIN D o F GU i S e Text david fischer

Founded in 2009 as a student project by a collectivE from Munich, A Kind of Guise has nicely evolved into a successful and recognizable menswear line. From sourcing interesting premium materials to offering a timeless, yet distinct style, A Kind of Guise caught our attention when we were first introduced to them via some of our favourite stores, including wood wood, Harvest

and SOTO. The accessories range, including backpacks and Kilim carpet shoulder bags, drew strong praise for the young brand.

On the following pages, we present the A kind of Guise Spring/Summer 2012 collection and an interview with Yasar Ceviker, one of the founders, And Talk about the foundation and development of the brand.

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a k ind of g u ise

A Kind Of Guise was only founded in 2009. Who is behind the brand and what are the backgrounds of the founders?

It started off as a small student project. Now the team consists of 5 people, coming from different backgrounds such as design, music and art. A few of us are still going to school.

From our experience there are not a lot of interesting young fashion brands doing their thing in Germany.

Would you agree with that? To us it is either too conceptional, or just not tasteful? Does Germany make it hard for fashion designers?

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From our point of view Germany actually offers a lot of opportunities and has a lot of potential. But in general we think, that it does not matter where you work; it is important WHO you work with.

Therefore we are so happy to have brands such as AKOG. We have been fans right from the start and appreciate your drive to produce high quality and unique products. How would you best describe the underlying principles of the brand?

Basically we try to translate our interests and daily influences into our products. We produ-

a k ind of g u ise

ce simple, grounded, rugged clothing, always focusing on a high quality standards and try to keep the production as local as possible. What we create is what we are.

How do you intend to grow the brand, offer it to more retailers, but also keep it interesting as demand and supply increase? That always seems to be the hardest in our mind for successful small brands.

Most of your products feature especially sourced materials that you buy in limited quantities and thus also sell in limited quantities. Do you want to keep it that way?

Of course we always select and look after the store's vibe because it's very important to us who we work with. If a store feels right to us, let's do it! Also we try to focus more on our online shop, which plays a bigger part every day. Grow slowly, but grow strong. Keep a real attitude alive, no fake. Always involve our friends and making AKOG a bigger family.

How would you best describe the style of AKOG? selected, passion, journey What can we expect from you in the future?

We've always worked with different kinds of materials. Combining stuff from different contexts is a big part of our work flow, we want to keep it that way! Expect some special projects for next year! It's already in progress!

More! As it was in previous collections, the experience of changing our environment and getting to know something new, heavily influences our collections. The way of life and the attitude of the people we meet is what we try to translate into our products. Stay classy! http://akindofguise.com

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l e be r l inois

LE b e r l i n o i s

Text Jeff Carvalho Photo Micky Richter

In Summer 2010 Philip Gaedicke, Omer BenMichael, and David Fischer opened the doors to SOTO, their men's lifestyle store based in Berlin's Mitte District. SOTO opened to fill a gap in the local menswear market by offering such brands as Band of Outsiders, Opening Ceremony, Adam Kimmel, Our Legacy, Norse Projects, Thom Browne - most of whom lacked a strong retail presence in Berlin and Germany.

Over time, SOTO has continued to grow their offering by including new and compelling fashion lines, keeping Berlin on the same playing field as other metropolitian cities.

In Fall 2011, SOTO took a strong step forward with the introduction of their in-house collection, Le Berlinois. The name best describes

the exterior view and background on the Berlin scene and market, much of which comes from the three founders' personal experience traveling outside the country's borders. With a focus on high quality and finely crafted garments, including cashmere beanies, sweaters, and scarves; as well as select other items, such as handmade Italian umbrellas and ties; Le Berlinois remains focused on bringing the very best into Berlin.

While they have no plans to offer Le Berlinois as a full scale collection any time soon, the SOTO partners will continue to complement their brand offering with high quality standards under the in-house line. Look for more men's basics under Le Berlinois to arrive soon.

http://www.sotostore.com

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fvf

freunde von

freunden

Founded in 2009 in Berlin, Freunde vonFreunden has turned into a full fledged online interview magazine over the years, portraying people of diverse creative and cultural backgrounds in their homes or within their daily working environments.

While their focus remained for the most part on the city of Berlin, FvF has in the meantime expanded and presents new faces from

New York to Paris. An intimate image portrait is given of the people, their private living spaces and their work spaces. As you can imagine, creative people also like to decorate their homes in unique ways, resulting in interesting and inspiring photo spreads - an exciting mixture of aesthetics and intimacy.

In late 2011 FvF also presented their first book, published by the Distanz publishing house, focussing on the FvF Berlin stories. Rather than

simply publishing what they had previously presented online, FvF has produced exclusive content for the print version of the book, including Peter Raue, Nomad and Wiebke Deertz.

Here we present excerpts of the book, which in some cases have not made it onto their online platform yet. Enjoy and get inspired. http://www. www.freundevonfreunden.com

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Karen and Christian Boros

Manager and Art Collector Penthouse / Berlin-Mitte

Photographer Ailine Liefeld

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Felipe Morozini

artist / Apartment / Sao Paulo Photographer Fran Parente

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Axel van Exel

architect and designer Loft / Berlin-Neukรถlln

Photographer Ailine Liefeld

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Johanna Burke

Set Designer Apartment and Studio / Brooklyn / New York Photographer Gracia Villamil

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Frank Hรถhne

Illustrator / Apartment / Berlin-Kreuzberg Photographer Philipp Langenheim

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URBAN moNOLITHS Photographer Lena Emery

ÂťThere is something quite magical about structures made purely of concrete. If every city has a landscape, then these are its mountains: Giant sculptural monoliths, that look like they grew straight from the pavement below.ÂŤ After growing up in Singapore, Lena Emery studied at Parsons School of Art and Design in Paris. Emery fully devoted herself to her photographic work in 2010 and has since been published in magazines including i-D, DERZEIT and LURVE. On the following pages you see a documentation of Berlin architecture.

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ACRO NYM Photographer Yves Borgwardt Photo Assistance Philipp Simon Styling & Concept Saskia Schmidt Styling Assistance Adriana Quaiser

Enrique Palos-Soto, Embajada de MĂŠxico en Alemania, Ministro, Jefe de la Cancilleria Restauration Bottschaft Caspar-TheyĂ&#x;-Str. 34, 14193 Berlin Pension Funk Fasanenstr. 65, 10719 Berlin Johanna Scheider @ acronym

All clothes & bags by Acronym Jewelry by Hanna Pordzik Berlin & Christian Metzner Shoes by Nike & Converse Nail Polish by Uslu Airlines featuring Acronym

Retouch Simon Geis / Recom

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g - shoc k

www.g-shock.com www.g-shock.eu www.mygshock.de

G-Shock x UCS / f r a g m e n t d e s i g n

G-Shock x Pa r r a

To celebrate the 10th anniversary of his UCS brand, Japanese mixed martial arts fighter Caol Uno got together with Hiroshi Fujiwara's fragment design and G-Shock on a very clean version of the DW-5600 watch.

Dutch artist Parra has created his very own version of the iconic DW-5600 watch. He worked with his trademark colors, that appear on most of his product collaborations and also frequently in his art.

g-shock

G-Shock GB - 6 9 0 0 One of the most iconic models from the G-Shock lineup gets equipped with Bluetooth technology, with features including automatic location based time adjustment and notification of incoming calls and emails on your phone by way of an alarm or vibration that can be deactivated simply by tapping the timepiece.

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di r t y di r t y me

Text david fischer Photo Simon Lohmeyer

A couple of years ago we ran into model Simon Lohmeyer in Paris. At the time he was on a job for Swedish fashion brand Acne and it just so happened that we ended up at the same dinner table during Paris Fashion Week.

At first we were pretty sure that he was the usual good looking sunny boy, 22 years old, traveling the globe and being part of an overly artificial modeling world, stuck in a life that is pretty hard to beat at that age.

But that perception changed rather quickly through out the evening. He talked about his own jewelry, that he produces from vintage spoons, collected on flea markets around the globe. And he spoke about his photography and film making.

Now we were of course curious. He ended up explaining us about his two passions in life - women and his charity projects. Sure, a rather drastic difference in these two topics, but that is his life. Traveling the globe as a model, meeting beautiful girls, and spending his free time in Combodia, trying to make a difference and helping the kids of Cambodia build a life. We were impressed that he had set himself such standards already at such a young age.

On the following pages we reveal one part of Simon Lohmeyer's life, as documented by himself on his blog DirtyDirty.me. Also make sure to check him out modeling the latest Muttonhead collection in the magazine. Enjoy! http://www.simanstudios.com 85

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ca r ha r t t

Carhartt wip S p r in g / S u mme r 2 0 1 2 C o l l ec t ion Text David Fischer Photo Alexander Basile

With heritage inspiration still being a big deal in menswear today, Carhartt could not be in a better position and continues to play on their home territory. One might even say that they have not been as relevant as today for some time, even though their collections have changed very little. To us, it shows a clear path, staying true to their brand and recognizing the heritage that the Carhartt name brings.

While having dominated Europe for some time, the Carhartt WIP brand is currently expanding onto other continents. Flagship stores in

Tokyo and New York have opened in the last couple of years and collaborations with outstanding brands, including Vans, A.P.C., Uniform Experiment, Burton and others, put the brand back on the map for many. Nevertheless every move seems well calculated and perfectly in line with the brand's ethos. As long as that is the case, the future will continue to look bright for Carhartt. Here we present the new Carhartt WIP Spring/Summer 2012 lookbook, shot by Alexander Basile, the Cologne based photographer and artist. http://www.carhartt-wip.com

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melon clutch Monki dressing gown Henrik Vibskov necklace, bracelet Bjørg

SHE'S

clutch Monki pants Hien Le bracelet Bjørg necklace Vibe Harsløf ring and shoes Weekday

Photographer alex flach Styling Linda Ehrl / Nina Klein Hair & Make Up Anna Neugebauer Model Nele / Seeds

BAG

left brown leather bag Wood Wood right dk blue bag with brown handle Drykorn t-shirt 5PREVIEW jacket Henrik Vibskov watch G-shock claw ring Bjørg

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Dj Trolley Carhartt blouse and scarf Monki bracelet Sabrina Dehoff earring Vibe Harsløf shoes Diesel

red bag Y-3 jacket Adidas Originals by Jeremy Scott shoes and bracelet Premiata

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pocket vest BLESS arm piece, necklace, earring Bjørg

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mouseprint bag and blouse 5PREVIEW bracelet Premiata shoes Diesel

light denim with black tote bag Stahl Corporation denim with brown leather handle Diesel denim rucksack with black Airbag Craftworks men's pants Henrik Vibskov shoes and necklace Weekday

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INTERIOR Text Graham Hiemstra

Classic Cupboard in Scrapwood Piet Hein Eek Exploring the trend of handmade furniture using found materials is designer Piet Hein Eek. The one of a kind Classic Cupboard in Scrapwood was the Dutch designer's first foray into upcycling, and a rather successful one at that. Made entirely of salvaged materials, each facet of the "unfinished" design lends a unique story. The Scrapwood collection is available exclusively through The Future Perfect. www.pietheineek.nl

Foundry Glide Outofstock Designed by Outofstock for the Foundry Collection. the gorgeously crafted Glide chair seems to embody all that we love about mid-century modern design. The raw natural beauty of the solid wood chair conveys a sense of weightlessness, while the sloped seat lures one to sit and stay awhile. Clean, well-crafted, timeless, and there you have it. www. foundrycollection.com

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Heritage Sideboard Boca do Lobo Portuguese design brand Boca do Lobo has once again created a statement piece incorporating extravagant, modern design details with grand stature. The heritage sideboard emulates the historic blue and white tilework used in the brand's previously released heritage cabinet and adapts it to the sideboard's asymmetrically stacked surfaces. Each protruding column depicts a different period of Portuguese history, creating a rich collage of patterns and vignettes. www.bocadolobo.com

Inno Kola Rocking Chair Mikko Laakkonen Seemingly inspired by the iconic Eames rocker, the Kola Rocking Chair takes a more sustainable approach by using moulded, 100% recyclable polyester felt for the shell. Designed by Mikko Laakkonen for Inno, the modernist design relies on an alluring combination of chromed steel and raw exposed wood for an added bit of pop. www.inno.fi

Polaboy Lightboys To support and encourage the resurgence of film photography the minds behind Lightboys invented the Polaboy, an enlarged polaroid – on a scale of 10:1 – with an authentically warm, nostalgic look. By using the latest advancements in LED technology, the Polaboy displays your own snapshot or artist edition image with that same familiar feeling we've all come to know and love. www.polaboy.de

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Selfportrait JR

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JR Interview GREG HERVIEUX Thanks Luke Newton

Miami, 2 a.m. Following the artistic madness of Art Basel, Greg Hervieux (BKRW founder) caught up with new contemporary art trouble maker, JR. During a layover back to Paris, they discussed his past, present and future including his new exhibition at Galerie Perrotin and his intimate Inside Out project.

Your first picture ?

Your favourite Art and/or museum?

It was about the close suburb of Paris, at métro AVRON, when I shot Rolka, on top of the Leader Price supermarket (…laughs), I had to start somewhere !

Contemporary art in general. A museum.

An island museum in Japan - Naoshima Benesse Teshima.

The picture you would like to take ?

Your first camera ?

What was your first link with art ?

An old Samsung I found in the underground.

Graffiti: since you do not know it is art.

My first start was graffiti, without realizing that it was already art, or that it would be art… I did not have any knowledge of art, as I did not grow up in an artistic environment .

How did you come to graffiti ?

At school. Everywhere: on walls, in the bathrooms, tagged on chairs. Actually my first tag was made on my desk.

At that time, who was your reference ?

It was not somebody in particular. It was my RER A (Paris underground). Everyday, I could see new tags, and competition was getting stronger and bigger, and I was thinking that maybe one day I could add my name. It was a daily challenge, a daily battle, and everyday my will was growing to get my name high in the top list.

None. As I am working 200% on the current project, I am completely concerned by my work and my current projects.

Your first exhibition ?

The name of your next project ?

It was in the largest gallery in the world : the street. It was in 2001, in Paris, on the walls of the capital city, especially in front of the MEP … At that time, I was already making prints and « collages » on the walls that I was framing with red paint.

Your current inspirations ?

Everything linked to my own story, my past and my memory. All these details that bring nostalgic moments, and also all artists who bring unformatted messages, free will actions and who try to fight preconceived ideas..

Your favourite meal ?

«Raviolis au fromage» Your favourite city ?

The one in progress : Inside Out. Tell us what changed after you won the TED prize?

The Ted prize actually allowed me to eventually go where I always dreamt of and to reach people I always wanted to reach. Inside Out is only the following step of my thinking and my work on Face to Face, except that it is more widely open to others. The Ted prize was a huge speaker, a terrific media amplifier.

What is coming after the TED prize?

After the Ted prize there will still be Inside Out. I want to keep it alive, to make it move on, to commit people, to make it travel and grow up.

Inside Out is coming after Inside Out.

What was your first artistic emotion ?

New York.

When I watched La Haine by Mathieu Kassovitz. The picture, the framing, the light and the message were amazing. This masterpiece inspired me a lot. Actually, I belong to a generation that grew up with movies, TV and ads.

Your favourite Music ?

All instrumental music, such as movie soundtracks.

http://www.jr-art.net http://www.bkrw.com http://www.bkreativeagency.com 107

in t e r v iew jonone

Interview GREG HERVIEUX

JONone

Paris 1 a.m. Contemporary art prodigy Jonone is leaving his studio to buy some Chinese food, when fellow Parisian art enthusiast Greg Hervieux (BKRW) catches him in the street and records the genesis of his art career.

Your first tag ?

How did you get to Paris ?

By plane (LOL), after Bando invited me. We met in NYC and in 1987 he asked me to come to the capital city. This is where I started to live like a real artist, in my first squat at Guy Mocquet, a disused garage.

Harlem NYC 1977. I was in the subway trying to pick up a girl from 157th St. I started to tag « Jon Loves Rosanna » Obviously she dumped me soon after that…and then I started to tag Jonone.

JON was to remove the «Loves Rosanna», but it looked too short so I added «One» since I always have wanted to be number one.

Your first time under arrest ?

First time you saw graffiti ?

It was in the Bronx, where Tracy168 was drawing a « cowboy » on a wall. There I wondered « How can I do the same ? »

It was in 1989. I sold a painting to agnes b.

She put it in her home. The name is "Enter the Dragon" (a tribute to the Bruce lee movie), and I dreamt that many people would come to have dinner there and would see my work.

Your first canvas and why ?

How was your exhibition at Carousel du Louvre ?

After ruining subway trains for so long (I kept thinking that a subway stands for a living museum going across the city)… I think I always felt this desire to come to canvas. Which I did in 1983… and this canvas is still at my Mum’s place in Harlem.

It was during the Hopital Ephemere event (the first Paris squat and gallery to be tolerated).

Christophe and Caroline were in charge of the place and they had me meet some staff from Le Louvre. It was a major time in my career, even if it was shortened by the well known 1994 strikes. I was entering one of the largest and most beautiful museums in the world…

Your first exhibition ?

It was in 1989, with agnes b., for a groupshow. They gathered American and French graffiti artists such as Futura 2000, MEO, BBC, Ecko, Andre and a lot more.

I never got arrested for my tags or my graffiti, but I got into a lot of trouble for stealing paint.

So first time was in Harlem, as a minor, for stealing spray paint.

First time you sold a painting ?

What changed the most in your life after you started to become famous for your work ?

I work more ! (LOL) Money is not the main point, as some people may think, it is more a matter of rising in society. I meet more influential people, I have free access to interesting places. My work reaches places I never thought it would. It is a real positive evolution. Also I must admit that today money brings me some material comfort I did not have during the 20 years spent in the street…

Could you explain the difference between your paintings and your throw up/flop ?

My throw up is my signature, my DNA, my own keyword. Nobody can make a copy of it.

On the opposite, some of my paintings have already been copied and today, to make it more difficult, I add this throw up as an official signature on my paintings, to leave some trace of myself and add some authenticity to my work.

What are your next projects ?

There is an exhibition in progress at Art Paris.

As for the rest, big mystery ! Actually I wish I could find a place to express myself and to paint in a new dimension. http://www.jonone.net http://www.bkrw.com http://www.bkreativeagency.com

WATCHES

B r a un BN 0 0 3 5 C hr o no Braun watches made a welcome return this year. Known for their iconic and timeless design, Braun watches are as relevant today as they were when they originally came out. We are certainly happy to have them back! www.braun-clocks.com

H ublot King Power Unic o GMT

IWC T o p G u n M i r a ma r

Available in black ceramic and gold options, the Hublot King Power Unico GMT comes with an automatic Hublot caliber. The watch displays four 24-hour timezones simultaneously, on the four rotating discs, seen on the dial.

The new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Top Gun Miramar” edition is a tribute to the place in California where the myth of the elite pilot (the “Top Gun”) was born. The dark grey ceramic case is a great color combination with the vintage inspired military green canvas strap.

www.hublot.com www.iwc.com

Nixon T he S teelc at For Spring 2012, Nixon introduces The Steelcat watch, featuring a stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, rubber bezel and straps. It will release this season in rose gold, black and steel colorways. www.nixonnow.com

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GADGETS Text David Fischer

B e at s b y D r e Ex e c u t i v e In 2012, Beats by Dre is introducing their new premium Executive line of headphones. Better audio, noise cancellation, and a brushed metal finish not only give the headphones a more sophisticated appeal, but also speak to a more mature customer.

www.beatsexecutive.com

Fujifilm X10 After the successful launch of their X100 camera, Fujifilm continues to work on beautiful retro styled premium cameras. The latest one to come out is the X10. On top of a 2/3 sensor, the camera features 12 megapixel resolution, 1080p video capabilities, 4x optical zoom and shoots both JPEG and RAW images. www.fujifilm.com

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TAKWAK TW 7 0 0 Made for the modern outdoor folk, German brand Takwak presents their TW700 device, packaging GPS, walkie talkie, camera and tracking system, all into one rugged, waterproof, trail-ready package. The Android powered touchscreen device comes with offroad navigation, group tracking function, a 5 megapixel camera and is water resistant. The TW700 comes out early 2012. www.takwak.com

Ly t r o L i g h t Field Camera A fantastic new gadget for camera enthusiasts is coming out in 2012. The pocket-sized Lytro camera, which offers a powerful 8x optical zoom and a f/2 lens in an iconic design, creates interactive “living pictures� that can be endlessly refocused - that means you can focus your image after it has been taken already. www.lytro.com

Loewe SoundVision Premium German audio equipment maker Loewe enters the market of audio accessories.

The SoundVision right away caught our eye with its minimalist high end design. The allin-one sound solution features a touch screen, built in speaker and is network compatible through LAN and WLAN. You can connect your iPhone/iPod via a dock sitting on top of the SoundVision or via Bluetooth.

www.loewe.tv

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adidas o r i g ina l s

a d i da s O r i g i na l s by Dav i d Beckham Spring/Summer 2012 Text DAVID FISCHER Photo Robert wunsch

When launched a couple of years ago, along with other collaborations with Jeremy Scott and Kazuki Kuraishi, the adidas Originals by David Beckham Collection was probably the most underestimated. By adding the signature of superstar footballer, David Beckham to the line, it just seemed like it was an easy play for adidas.

Over the years we have watched the development of the collection very closely and have come to the conclusion that it is probably the best collaboration that came from this initial set. Subtle, minimal design, premium materials, and just an overall timeless feel with an innovative approach make the collection a winner season after season. Fashio-

nable, but still sporty, the adidas Originals

by David Beckham Collection could not be a better reflection of modern sportswear, sitting well with both the brand and the star.

For Spring/Summer 2012, the collection once again includes strong fleece garments, ranging from crewneck sweaters to varsity jackets. Great reinterpretations of classic sneaker silhouettes, and solid outerwear push the casual and sophisticated offering. The adidas Originals by David Beckham Collection was once again created by Undefeated co-founder, James Bond. The classic American sportswear range with collegiate influences surprises with military silhouettes and technical features taken from the field of glory.

http://www.adidas.com/originals

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converse Running is back

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In the 80's Converse was a household name when it came to running shoes; a point almost forgotten today, mainly due to the fact that little innovation happened.

That is about to change. For Spring 2012, Converse is coming back strong and releasing two versions of the iconic Auckland Racer: the classic Auckland Racer OX as a re-release and the all new Auckland Racer Remix.

What has changed? Converse introduces the

Text DAVID FISCHER Illustration HENRIK ABRAHAMS

latest in running technology to this all time classic. While the original was already a great lightweight running shoe, the new Aukland Racer Remix impresses with a single layer air mesh upper, a compression molded EVA midsole with flex opening and grooves, as well as a welded T.P.U. logo. The outcome is a modern running shoe that does not only please your

feet, but also the eyes. For its first release for Spring 2012, the Converse Auckland Racer Remix will deliver in four colorways, ranging from solid grey and black versions; to a New York Knicks inspired royal blue/orange version; and a red/white version that gets you ready for the warmer days of the year. Converse running is Back! http://www.converse.de

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Cars Text David Fischer

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Porsche Cajun

M a n g u s ta L e g a c y Concept

The Porsche Cayenne has been a huge success for the German car maker and soon the smaller Cajun will be added to the line-up. Apparently coming as a three door and a five door version, the smaller brother of the Cayenne will for sure not disappoint. Based on the Audi Q5 body, you can expect some impressive features and of course reliable, yet aggressive power under the hood.

It is certainly not easy to improve on the work of Giorgetto Giugiaro, the designer of the original De Tomaso Mangusta, but Maxime de Keiser impressed us with his Mangusta Legacy Concept. While paying tribute to the original, the designer managed to bring this classic into the future.

www.porsche.com

www.lesforgesmdk.blogspot.com

A u d i A 1 Q u at t r o

M e r c e d e s - B e n z SL

As much as we like big cars, a small beast is also great, especially for the city. The A1 Quattro comes with a 252 horsepower turbocharged engine, 17 inch wheels and the looks of a real rally car. Only 333 units of it will be produced and go on sale in 2012.

Next year Mercedes-Benz will finally launch the next generation of their popular sports car – the SL. The lightest SL to ever be produced, the new version of course comes packed with the latest features that Mercedes has to offer.

The 435 horsepower SL 500 will for sure be the hit of the line-up – we cannot wait to test it out.

www.audi.com

www.mercedes-benz.com

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DRI V ERS Photographer Christian Brecheis Hair & Make Up Christa RaquĂŠ / blossom Styling Rainer Metz Styling Assistant Madlen Uhlemann thanks to NĂźrburgring, Audi, Lamborghini, CP Autosport, Race Management Services, Stuck3

Hans-Joachim left Suit Hackett (seen at Galeries Lafayette Berlin) Shirt Joop Shoes Santoni Johannes right Coat Tiger of Sweden Suit Marc by Marc Jacobs (seen at Departmentstore Cabinet) Slippers Santoni

In our DRIVERS spread we managed to bring together two legends the Stuck family and the iconic race track Nurburgring in Germany.

Hans-Joachim Stuck, father of the family, won the 24 hour race on the track in 1970, as a 19 year old. Throughout his career he competed in many different categories, including Formula One.

His two sons, also featured, today try to step in the shoes of their father and are already competing in the GT3 championship. Having the three of them race on the Nurburgring Nordschleife in the Audi R8 Spyder GT and Lamborghini Superlegera Spyder was a match made in heaven, caught on camera for us by Christian Brecheis.

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Johannes Jacket & Pullover Marc by Marc Jacobs (seen at Departmentstore Cabinet) Pants Hugo Glasses Mykita Pochette Edsor

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Johannes Coat & Shirt Tiger of Sweden Suit Marc by Marc Jacobs (seen at Departmentstore Cabinet) Shoes Santoni Belt Polo Ralph Lauren

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Johannes Jacket & Pullover Marc by Marc Jacobs (seen at Departmentstore Cabinet) Pants Hugo Glasses Mykita Pochette Edsor Slipper Santoni

Johannes Jacket Boglioli Cardigan Tiger of Sweden Shirt Tommy Hilfiger Tie Edsor Pants Tommy Hilfiger Shoes Santoni

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Hans-Joachim Jacket & V-Neck Polo Ralph Lauren Shirt Joop Pants Hackett (seen at Galeries Lafayette Berlin) Bow tie Edsor Shoes Santoni

Ferdinand Jacket Boglioli Shirt Hannibal Pants Hugo Pochette Edsor Slippers Santoni

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Meat Market Photographer Daniel RochĂŠ Assistent Benjamin Rein Styling Jennifer Hahn Hair & Make-up Melanie Schoene blossom with products of Mac Cosmetics Hair & Make-up assistent Abra Models Signe Kayser modelwerk Eugen Bauder mega Lino Meiries mega Special Thanks to Fleischerei BĂźnger

Kleid Kilian Kerner Mieder Wolford Armband Akkesoir Pelzstola Moga e Mago Harness Schwarzer Reiter Ohrringe vintage Anzug Michalsky Latexhemd Très Bonjour Ohrringe Vintage

Lederhandschuhe Roeckl Kleid Richard Kravetz Maske Schwarzer Reiter Ohrringe Vintage

Lederkleid Stephan Pelger Latexhandschuhe Très Bonjour Ohrringe Vintage

Body American Apparel Pelzweste Kevandbelle Harness Moga e Mago Kette Akkesoir Lederhandschuhe Wolford Garmaschen Wolford Ohrringe Vintage Shorts Calvin Klein

Kleid Kilian Kerner Schulterpolster Moga e Mago Kette & Armband Akkesoir St채bchenkorsage Mary Oh! Garmaschen Wolford Ohrringe Vintage

Lederkleid Issever Bahri Gürtel Wolford Latexkragen & Latexhandschuhe Très Bonjour Ohrringe Vintage

M u t t onhead

Mutton head Toronto's Muttonhead is one emerging label you should pay attention to.

Text Pete Williams Photo ROBERT WUNSCH

It's Friday afternoon in Toronto's multiethnic Trinity-Bellwoods neighborhood. Nestled between residential homes, Portuguese chicken restaurants, independent coffee shops and the impressive Trinity-Bellwoods public park is a gallery-come-private-event-space called Miracle Thieves and this weekend it's playing host to "Camping Out on Crawford," a pop-up shop hosted by local Toronto brand Muttonhead.

Helmed by a group of three girls: Paige, Meg and Mel - the latter two of which are twins Muttonhead is a labor of love. The three girls all worked with clothing early on. At one point Meg used to dig through stacks of vintage Levi's and Carhartt for a Japanese collector, so she knows a thing or two about longevity in garments.

At Miracle Thieve, the walls are covered in woodsy memorabilia, the windows in illustrations by a local artist and, in the center of the room is a large, rectangular wooden table covered in assorted Muttonhead accessories, the latest issues of King Shit magazine and a few

cases of beer. As cyclists cruise by, dodging both the street cars and the perilous grooves on which they roll, we pull gold rolling cart and a charcoal grill from the cellar. We have hot dogs, hamburgers and, yes, plenty of beer.

Not unlike what you'd expect from a group of young people from Canada to be doing on a summer evening.

However, this party is filled with up-andcoming designers, stylists, artists, filmmakers and skaters. Hanging out, BBQing, enjoying beverages. There's a dog too. It feels like a real community affair, because it is. And this sort of local pride speaks through in their craft.

Every piece is designed in house in Toronto and produced within the GTA (Greater Toronto Area.)

Meg pulls recycled textiles from her vintagepicking days, while sustainable fabrics appear on a number of garments. Much of their clothing feels born of calculated experimentation and the type of fearlessness you can tap into when you're fully at ease with another person. These girls are close - Meg and Mel

are twins in fact - so there's that sort of innate trust that allows for improvisation. Surprising details peek through on each garment, and work well.

Clearly, there's a strong creative movement bubbling in Toronto, and Muttonhead are right there on the cusp of it all, building their own following and having the time of their lives. Interestingly enough, at this point Muttonhead has not a single Toronto retailer to their name. But judging by the turn-out and constant sales at the shop, they don't really need a retailer here either. Which raises the question: do brands still need retailers in 2012? Do musicians still need record labels?

The landscape is undoubtedly changing.

On Saturday we spike lemonade and sell more clothing. Life is good. http://muttonheadcollective.com

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owner operator Spring 2012

New York's Owner Operator began with a simple aim: to produce well-constructed outerwear with a nod to the past. Like many successful labels it formed from its designer’s determination to create the perfect product for themselves.

Steven Kimura and Peter Sieper grew up snowboarding together Upstate. Their passion for the sport continued into adulthood but the modern big name gear they were using didn't seem to have the same integrity, the same commitment to style and substance as those early brands.

While outdoors-wear and the ubiquitous parka

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Text Lena DYSTANT

continued its march in the 'fashion' world, it seemed that a good-looking, homegrown product with functionality at its core was missing from the scene. Spotting a gap in the market and assuming, correctly, that others would share their desire, the guys set about starting Owner Operator from scratch. This is a small-scale ope-

ration with big ambitions. Everything is made in NYC's Garment District by skilled workers and tested by Peter and Steven where it matters; on the mountains that sparked the initial idea. Their mission statement, "Consider the impact of every dollar you spend. Consider what you are supporting with your purchases" is a reminder that you're buying into a product made with care and a brand with honest intentions.

We caught up with co-founder Peter Sieper who took time out to shed light on Owner Operators beginnings and its plans for the future.

When exactly was the company founded and what did you guys do before Owner Operator?

We founded the brand in 2007. Peter Sieper worked as a pattern-maker and designer for international brands...Helmut Lang, J. Crew, Ralph Lauren. I worked as an artist and lead on video games so I was involved with projects like Guitar Hero, Rock Band etc.

As a relatively new brand, how did you find the process of getting up and running?

It took two years of hard work to put our first collection together.

We sewed many, many rounds of samples before we arrived at our final product. We’ve learned all about the joys and pains samples, patterns, sewing, grading sizes and designing a cohesive collection. Building relationships on both the supply and manufacturing side was an enormous amount of work that we hadn’t really considered seriously up front.

Some of this stuff gets easier, but it certainly continues to be a learning process that requires patience and optimism.

What other brands past or present have inspired you?

The best outdoors gear always came from scrappy outsiders doing something original. In their early days, most of today’s mega-brands were doing really inspiring things. Vintage CB, EMS, and North Face were great inspirations. Gerry had awesome jackets in the 70’s. Tough Traveler, from our hometown of Schenectady, NY, is an inspiration for doing all of their production domestically. They still sew all of their gear 2 miles from the house I grew up in.

What do you think of the sudden interest in mountain/outdoors gear in the last couple of years?

Well, the real enthusiasts never left the mountains! But, we’re excited about the new enthusiasm. I think people are responding to a sense of authenticity. Outdoor gear has to be tough, honest, and practical. The fashion world would definitely benefit from reflecting on these kinds of values. We’re also psyched to see some interest in domestic production returning to the conversation, and we hope it continues. More companies like ours working on domestic manufacturing is good for everyone.

What was your initial aim when starting the brand?

What's to come for Winter 12/13?

We want Owner Operator to reflect us at our most idealistic. Pete and I grew up snowboarding together upstate, and we still love watching the old video parts that totally inspired us when we were young. It was a great scene, with cool gear made by brands you could really relate to. The Owner Operator name reflects that kind of transparency. We own the company, and design and field-test the gear ourselves.

We’re working on all kinds of gear right now. We’ve got a new parka, pant, anorak and some awesome shirts for layering. We’re also introducing our women’s line, starting with a parka and pant based on our 111 Parka and 112 Pant but built off of a completely new block. We’re also working on some cool new packs and bags.

In terms of technical specifications, what are the most important features in mind when you're designing?

Everything about our gear has to function out on the mountain. When you’re out in the woods in wet, driving snow all you care about is keeping warm, dry, and comfortable. Having the fit really dialed-in is truly important. You really need comfort and full mobility to feel balanced, comfortable, and happy. You should almost be able to forget about gear, and really enjoy the experience of being outside in the elements. It all translates into gear that’s great for everything from the mountains to the streets, which we are definitely appreciating now that Winter has finally arrived in the Northeast!

Is there any particular piece from the collection that you're really enthusiastic about?

Our new Summit Mitt is awesome. They’re a classic gauntlet mitten, with a Nylon shell and durable Cordura on the palms. They’re lined with this ridiculously soft and warm synthetic fur that reminds me of Oscar the Grouch. We’ve got a new technical insulated parka—a single piece of seriously warm gear. It has a number of key features: venting, synthetic down insulation, Nylon and Cordura shell, nice color blocking and our three-way adjustable hood. It’s designed for deep snow in the backcountry, and that’s where I plan to be this time next year.

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C anada Goose

ca n a da goose A Factory Tour Since 1957, Canada goose has been producing extreme cold weather garments, born of purpose and function. Their reputation for quality has made Canada Goose jackets a status symbol for those residing in colder climates. From the ice of the Arctic to the streets of Berlin, the „Arctic Disk“, is now a globally recognized symbol. In the early 90s, the brand was known in Canada as Snow Goose, but as they began to expand to Europe, they discovered Snow Goose was already registered there, and so took on the name Canada Goose. In 2000, with a move to Japan, the label began producing only under one name: Canada Goose.

Beyond warmth, Canada Goose‘s prime appeal is based on the fact that the jackets are handmade, entirely in Canada. Presumably, a pro-

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Text and Photo Pete Williams

cess where the quality standards are second to none. We recently had the opportunity to travel to Toronto to walk the production floor and witness this impressive process first hand.

On arrival at the Canada Goose Headquarters, our first stop was the fill room. Using a proprietary device that measures the fill by volume rather than weight, pieces of future Canada Goose jackets - arms, chests, etc - are blasted with a premium mix of goose and duck down, sourced from a sole supplier: Feather Industries Canada. The jackets will be wellprepared to withstand the cold. From the fill room we move to the design room, where patterns are developed via computer, printed out

and sampled only feet away on the production floor. We spot a prototype of Drake‘s latest October‘s Very Own collaboration.

On the floor, fabric is cut by machine, bundled with different bits and then stitched by hand.

From the linings and zippers to patches and cuffs, each aspect of a Canada Goose parka is treated with utmost care. Though Canada Goose‘s product line is expanding to new categories each season, many jackets include a range of staple features designed to keep wearers safe in extreme conditions, such as reflective tape, pull loops and coyote fur trim - sourced direct from the native Canadian communities of the North, who still hunt by their centuries-old ways of life.

Canada Goose‘s roots are decidedly function-

C anada Goose

over-fashion, however, in recent years limited lines designed by the likes of Yuki Matsuda (of Yuketen and Monitaly), October‘s Very Own (Drake) and Concepts have helped to place their product in the eyes of a more discerning consumer. This year, Canada Goose looked towards Loro Piana for luxury fabrics, released a second October‘s Very Own jacket done entirely in leather and gave Canadian mountain climber Laurie Skreslet his own signature parka in bright pink. Moves like this keep things interesting and further solidify their place in popular culture.

Overall, the operations at Canada Goose are defined by a complex, yet simple process where everything is considered and each step is both efficient and effective. Perhaps most im-

pressive is the fact that they are now able to sell in over 40 countries, while at the same time being an authentic family-owned business who still produces every jacket in-house, on Canadian soil. A true story of Canadian spirit and craftsmanship.

http://www.canada-goose.com

ASK ANYONE WHO KNOWS™

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t r i p l e a u g h t desi g n

Text Pete Williams

Triple Aught Design Founded in 1997, Triple Aught Design is a San Francisco-based brand that aims to inspire people to explore their world through well-designed, functional performance gear. Whether down the street or into the wild, T.A.D. looks to equip travelers with the gear to get them there… and back again to tell the story. We talked to Art Director Ike Edeani to learn more about the label and their world.

Technical/tactical gear has recently begun to play a bigger role in the fashion world once again. What do you feel makes a product stand out in this category?

More than just the re-emergence of camo into fashion, tactical gear has always been function first. From the very beginning, what set Triple Aught Design apart was our incorporation of both function and style. Even though we start with function and performance first, style and the way things look are just as important.

Great gear not only works well and lasts forever, it also looks good.

Give us some background info on T.A.D. - where does the name come from and what are the cornerstones of the brand?

The name Triple Aught Design comes from triple aught (000), a very fine grade of steel

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wool used in finishing or repairing metal objects. T.A.D. has over the last 14 years become synonymous with words like rugged, durable and functional. I have lost track of the number of times a customer has tried on an Artemis Sweater or Force 10 pants without immediately commenting on how good they felt.

treatments from Swiss company Schoeller®, resulting in a jacket that’s breathable, doesn’t restrict movement and very durable.

What are your personal favorite items in the line, and why?

We‘ve been very lucky to have such a great relationship with military personnel serving around the world. We‘re not an official government contractor or supplier. Instead, we’re constantly approached by soldiers or small teams who hear about our gear surviving the rigors of mission after mission.

When you have a hand in designing each and every product, they all become your favorite for one reason or another. One of the things I‘m most excited about for this spring is our upcoming Stealth LT Jacket. Not only is it our most technically advanced soft-shell to date, the Stealth LT is going to be seam taped, making it fully waterproof and windproof.

We used some really innovative textiles and

What can you tell us about the military side of your business? Is it true that everything T.A.D. is field tested, guns blazing?

We‘ve set a high standard over the last 15 years and make sure that each product is put through the paces during development.

There‘s only one way to find out right...

t r i p l e a u g h t desi g n

We‘d like to hear more of your thoughts on the meeting of style and function - what is your take on camo as it relates to fashion?

The use of camo in fashion seems to favor the aesthetic appeal of the patterns over any practical or functional use. It might seem like a trend now, but the idea has actually been around since the early 1900s. Our approach is much more traditional, focusing first on function and performance before style, which is why we use MultiCamÂŽ, a pattern developed specifically to blend into a variety of different environments and light conditions when observed in both visual and near-IR spectrums.

You are based in San Francisco. Could you tell us your top FIVE things to do, places to see/eat?

Being so close to Napa and being a food loving city at heart, the list is long on great places to see and eat. That said, here are some of our favorites:

1 Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous The best ice cream shop happens to be across the street from T.A.D. HQ. With flavors like PB+J, horchata and an ever-changing menu 2 Piccino Another local favorite in the Dogpatch. For anyone who appreciates outstanding pizza and coffee, this is a go-to destination.

3 Dolores Park There are a lot of great parks in the city, but this one happens to be in the Mission District, one of the warmest parts of the city, and with arguably the best views.

4 Angel Island About 20 minutes from the city by boat, with a beautiful 3-mile hike to the top of Mt Livermore, you get incredible 360 degree views of the entire San Francisco skyline, Marin County Headlands, and Mt Tamalpais.

http://www.tripleaughtdesign.com

5 AT&T Park Best ballpark in the country. The San Francisco Giants. Enough said.

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o u t l ie r

Outlier Text jeff carvalho

Great design should always serve to solve a problem without compromising on looks. In 2008, the Brooklyn based technical menswear line Outlier emerged on the streets with the goal of filling a very large void in the world of urban commuter cycling: fashion proper cycling trousers at a reasonable price-point.

Abe Burmeister and Tyler Clemens love the “intense feeling of exhilaration and liberation that comes from riding in the city.” The original Outlier trouser constructed from Schoeller 3xDry fabric and patterned on the classic tailored cut usually reserved for traditional menswear, allow for everyone to understand that feeling while proving that technical gar-

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ments need not compromise on being fashionable and looking great.

The success of the OG Outlier trouser clearly set the brand in motion for the future. Today, with considered new garments that look to “improve the way you move through the world,” the brand continues to source the very best technical fabrics and cottons for construction of their garments. The Outlier Storm King Parka, for instance, is made from 100% Supermarine fabric woven in Switzerland; while Outlier Pivot Sleeve shirts are done up in the form of a classic oxford shirt. Both gar-

ments have their place in the Outlier collection by solving a need in the very best manner possible.

Most important, Outlier drives to be an exceptional business that does compromise sensible, good practices for the sake of higher margins: “A healthy organization creates value that extends far beyond money and into all points of its operation; from suppliers to employees and from customers into communities.”

When you remove the compromises in design, anything is possible. Outlier has clearly proven this. http://www.outlier.cc

k 1 x x k a r ina k ino

K1 X x Ka r i na Ki n o Soldier of Love Text DAVID FISCHER Photo ROBERT WUNSCH

Since finishing her studies at the Stroganov University of Arts, Moscow in 2006, Karina Kino has made a name for herself in the Russian street art scene. After previous collaborations with Nike and Jalouse Magazine, the artist has teamed up with German brand K1X for Spring/Summer 2012.

Continuously inspired by her own country's vast history and culture, Kino created the 'Soldier of Love' capsule collection together with K1X. Neon colored Matrushka dolls in

the artist's signature style make up most of the graphics in the collection. Launching later this season, the collection will be exclusively available at select retailers around the globe, including Fred Segal, Overkill and Sneakersnstuff. Look out for a launch event, along with a gallery exhibition by Karina Kino coming in April 2012. 20% of the proceeds from the Karina Kino x K1X collection will be donated to the Pavlin orphanage. http://www.k1x.com

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BEASTY SUMMER Photographer patrick houi Styling Jennifer Hahn Hair & Make-up anja fichtenmayer Close Up Agency with CHANEL & Bumble and Bumble Model lina pma models

Bikini Moontide Necklace Akkesoir

left Swimsuit Wolford right Bikini F端rstenberg

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left Swimsuit Maryan Mehlhorn right Bikini Seafolly

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left Swimsuit American Apparel right Bikini American Apparel Necklace Akkesoir

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marshall

Headphones Major

CON TEMPO RARY NOISE Photographer daniel reiter

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Urbanears PLATTAN

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Urbanears

PLATTAN Quilted

SOUND Text Pete Williams

If you don't already have these, head online and grab the following:

The Weeknd House of Balloons

Frank Ocean Nostalgia, ULTRA

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Top 5 Free Albums Most of our favorite music releases this year were free - not just because we downloaded them - but because they were legitimately offered free of charge from the artists. From the drugged-out R&B of The Weeknd and Frank Ocean to the new wave of NYC hip-hop from Danny Brown, ASAP Rocky and Clams Casino the self-released freebies kept us more entertained than the majority of big label drops.

Danny Brown XXX

ASAP Rocky LIVELOVEA$AP

Clams Casino Instrumental Mixtape

3 4 5

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im p r in t

imprint

Publisher David Fischer Editor in Chief & Creative Director Robert Wunsch Fashion Editor Linda Charlotte Ehrl Art Direction Jens Adamaszek, Nina Emmerich www.hatch-berlin.com Illustrators Henrik Abrahams

Highsnobiety Editors Jeff Carvalho, Pete Williams, Nick Schonberger, David Fischer, Lena Dystant Contributing Editors Greg Hervieux, Soohang Lee, Graham Hiemstra Proof Reader Jeff Carvalho, Pete Williams Photographers Daniel RochĂŠ, Yves Borgwardt, Patrick Houi, Jens Andersson, Alex Flach, Robert Wunsch, Soohang Lee, Lena Emery, Daniel Reiter, Christian Brecheis, Alex Basile, Simon Lohmeyer, Ailine Liefeld, Gracia Villamil, Fran Parente, Philipp Langenheim, Micky Richter, Pete Williams

We want to thank everybody who helped make this issue happen.

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Printing www.Feindruckerei.de Advertising Flo Rottengatter advertising@highsnobiety.com Headquarter Address: Highsnobiety Titel Media UG Torstrasse 138, 10119 Berlin Germany Contact & Feedback info@highsnobiety.com Livory Font by Hannes von DĂśhren und Livius Dietzel www.hvdfonts.com