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MARCH 2018

SAIGON SCENES

A photographer’s view of Ho Chi Minh City

BREW NEWS

The craft beer scene booms across Asia

WHALE OF A TALE

Prepare for Australia’s whale watching season

COVER STORY

Wild ways GET LOST IN TASMANIA’S REMOTE REACHES

MAGAZINE


DIVE ON IN

An aquamarine playground of unparalleled beauty, the Whitsundays offers adventure above, on and below the water

SAIL INTO THE SUNSET

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With 74 islands strung out over the Coral Sea, the water calls to you from the second you step foot in the Whitsunday Region. Set sail with one of the many operators based in Airlie Beach, and discover uninhabited shores and crystalline waters teeming with marine life. Cruise Whitsundays offers full-day cruises out to Hamilton and Whitsunday Islands, with options to hike, jetski, golf,

snorkel or simply relax on these world-famous shores. Or spend a night on Cruise Whitsunday’s open-air pontoon Reefsleep, and nod off with the Great Barrier Reef beneath you and a ceiling of stars above. To explore one of Australia’s richest marine parks at your own pace, Whitsunday Escape bareboat charters will equip you with a floating home from their fleet of yachts, catamarans and cruisers. If you feel more comfortable in the capable

hands of others, the luxury yacht Lady Enid is available for full-day private charters.

UNDER THE SEA Covering a patch of ocean larger than the UK, Switzerland and the Netherlands combined, and home to an estimated 10 per cent of the entire world’s fish species, the Great Barrier Reef is a living national treasure. Explore this icon from close quarters on a snorkelling or

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diving trip into the reef. At the 2017 Best of Family Travel Awards from Out&About With Kids magazine, readers voted snorkelling or diving the Great Barrier Reef as the Best Family Adventure Activity, catering to all experience levels. Snorkelling is offered on most sailing tours, but underwater wonders also await a short wade off Catseye Beach – Hamilton Island’s most popular stretch of sand. Explore the fringing reef on a snorkelling


Promotion I WHITSUNDAYS

Taking the leap

tour with Deep Water Turtle Discovery, and you may come face-to-face with some laid-back turtles. Or take the plunge with a PADI Open Water Diver course, with training centres located at Airlie Beach and on Hamilton Island. More experienced divers should point their flippers straight towards the outer reef – several “liveaboard” tours offer multi-day excursions to secluded dive sites along the reef’s 23,000km length.

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A BIRD’S-EYE VIEW As stunning as the Whitsunday Region is at eye level, it takes on a new dimension from on high. Jump aboard a scenic flight from Airlie to get your snap of the famed bommie Heart Reef, and add a picnic on world-renowned Whitehaven Beach. Air Whitsunday Seaplanes will whisk you over isolated stretches of reef and the shifting sands of Hill Inlet, with options to

set up camp for an hour or two on a secluded expanse of Whitehaven’s silica shore. Adrenaline junkies can go one step further with Airlie Beach Skydivers, throwing themselves out of a plane above the scenic coastline.

FROM PLANE TO PLAY All of the Whitsunday Region is in easy reach, with Jetstar flights direct to the Whitsunday Coast Airport from Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane.

1. Hire a bareboat charter to discover the Whitsundays region 2. Snorkel the reef 3. Heart Reef from above 4. Explore the Whitsunday Islands at your pace 5. Meet the locals 6. Abell Point Marina in Airlie Beach 7. Sail around 74 islands

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tourismwhitsundays.com.au


Promotion I MRS SIPPY

F I R S T B I R T H DAY On Saturday 31st March, Mrs Sippy Bali will be celebrating its first birthday with Floatchella, the year’s hottest pool party with an amazing line-up of international acts. See the Mrs Sippy website for more details on how you can join the celebrations.


Promotion I MRS SIPPY

MEET MRS SIPPY

F O O D & B E V E R AG E

Hugging the contours of Bali’s largest saltwater pool, Mrs Sippy Bali is a tropical oasis inspired by old-fashioned fun for the young at heart. Situated in the heart of Seminyak amongst shady palms, take a leap of faith off the iconic triple-tier dive tower and into the purest crystal-clear aqua inside this most ancient of archipelagos. Walk in and you can’t help but wonder how you left the bustle of Seminyak and are now surrounded by a beach, speckled with whitewashed day beds, umbrellas, cabanas and swaying palm trees. The whole family is welcome at the venue, with activities and menus for the kids, as well as “Sippy Beach” for those wanting to escape.

Guests can sip on expertly shaken cocktails while dancing to the island’s best locally based and international DJs who spin tropical tunes daily. A premier event and dining destination, the menu boasts fresh, locally sourced seafood using traditional wood firing techniques. The 200-seat restaurant is anchored by a five-metre Jimbaranstyle grill, operated by Michelin-starred executive chef Jonay Armas. Low-slung tables are piled high with icy buckets of rosé, chargrilled snapper, octopus and pizza.

EVENTS

C O N TAC T D E TA I L S Mrs Sippy is open from 10am to 9pm, seven days. Jalan Taman Ganesha, Gang Gagak 8, Seminyak.

+62 361 3351079 mrssippybali.com Sometimes you need to let your hair down. So, if you are planning a private party, corporate event or the big day, Mrs Sippy Bali is the #1 destination for fun times – catering for private groups of up to 10, and larger gatherings of up to 1500 people.


journey to Rarotonga and Aitutaki in the Cook Islands is the perfect island escape. Rest and relaxation, romance, family fun, activity and adventure. You can have it all in this tropical paradise. Everywhere the scenery is spectacular. From turquoise blue lagoons fringed by coral reefs and stunning white-sand beaches to craggy volcanic peaks and dense jungles, it’s picture perfect and awe-inspiring. There is a wide variety of accommodation with a choice for all budgets; from self-contained family villas to luxurious five star couples-only retreats, backpacker hostels and full-service resorts.

People often ask which side of Rarotonga they should stay on. There are a variety of hotels, resorts and holiday homes all over the island, but most are located between Muri Beach and the western side of Rarotonga. Muri Beach has motus (small islands) just off the beach that can be swum or paddled to. Most resorts provide kayaks and snorkelling gear free of charge too. There is also a wide variety of restaurants all within walking distance. As you head around the island towards the western side, there is accommodation of all types and this is also where you will find the late afternoon sun and amazing sunsets.

Rarotonga Just 32 km in circumference, you can drive around the island in just 40 minutes. Rarotonga has the widest range of scenery, activities, accommodation, restaurants and cafés too. It has been said that Rarotonga is like one big resort – because people get out and about and don’t just stay in their hotel. There are beaches with no-one on them and you can stop and spend as long or as little time as you like there. The multitude of cafés and restaurants around the island just have to be experienced. The food is so good with a huge variety on offer. Many holidaymakers are content just


to enjoy Rarotonga’s relaxed environment with its warm lagoon and lush tropical mountains. There’s nothing better than a day lying on the beach, snorkelling, swimming, snoozing or simply admiring the scenery from your hammock. But while Rarotonga is perfect for relaxing and re-charging, it also has plenty of activities and cultural experiences to entertain you for days. For some soft adventure, take Pa’s Cross Country Trek, which traverses the island’s mountains including the iconic Needle. Take a four-wheel drive adventure tour, hire quad bikes or take a buggy tour, learn to paddleboard or scuba dive, go night diving, kite surfing or big game fishing.

A lagoon cruise on a glass-bottomed boat is a must-do. You can snorkel alongside tropical fish before going ashore on a palm-fringed motu for a barbecue lunch and entertainment involving coconuts, sarongs, music and a good old laugh at life in general. Many resorts have their own island night with traditional music and dancing. And there are spectacular shows at the award-winning Highland Paradise Cultural Centre, set in an ancient mountain village at Arorangi, or the stunning theatrical over-water performance at Te Vara Nui in Muri Beach. No matter where you are or what you want to do, the whole island is yours to enjoy.

Aitutaki Often called the honeymoon island, Aitutaki is pure paradise. Only a 40-minute flight north of Rarotonga, it’s spectacularly beautiful, with a triangular-shaped reef surrounding a bright turquoise lagoon containing 15 small motus. The crystal-clear water is home to bright tropical fish and its pristine white-sand beaches are private and secluded. Exploring the lagoon is an absolute must. Book a lagoon cruise to visit the outer motus and have lunch on One Foot Island, which some consider to be the most beautiful beach in the whole of the South Pacific.


Promotion I TASMANIA

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MAP Tassi e YOUR ESCAPE Go wild this autumn with a road trip through Tasmania’s Central Highlands and North West Coast. Fly into Hobart and out of Launceston to get a taste of the regions’ spectacular produce, and explore craggy peaks and rugged coastlines. Take advantage of mild days perfect for wilderness walks, followed with a dash of whisky. It’s the perfect way to ease into the comforts of the cooler months.

A. COAL RIVER VALLEY. Fly into Hobart, and within minutes you could be rubbing shoulders with producers in the Coal River Valley. Hidden among the valley’s rolling hills is delicious farm-grown produce and sixteen vineyards – eight with cellar doors – producing premium Tasmanian cool-climate wines. Taste your way to Richmond, where you will find Australia’s oldest bridge, gaol and Catholic church and cosy cottages for a night’s stay.

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.H. HELLYERS DISTILLERY.

International Mural Fest Ever witnessed a “paint off”? You can in Sheffield. Each year nine artists compete at this arty festival, painting huge murals to be in the running for some serious cash prizes. Fittingly known as the Town of Murals, Sheffield features large outdoor artworks around every corner. This year the event takes place 1-7 April, bringing the colourful country canvas to life. Now that’s worth painting about.

Targa Tasmania It’s the world’s largest, longest and most difficult tarmac rally. Find the best viewing perch for this 2,000km motorsport bonanza and witness exotic fast cars competing under the toughest conditions. Classic and modern cars including Porsche, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Mercedes-Benz and Lotus will hit Tassie roads from 16-21 April, covering almost every corner of the island at hair-raising speeds.

gobehindthescenery.com.au

G G. CRADLE TO COAST TASTING TRAIL. This gastronomic journey through the North West combines scenery and great produce. Roadside stalls and farmhouses sell vegetables, fruit, pies, cheese and handcrafted chocolates, while boutique wineries and distilleries offer wine, cider, beer and whisky.

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F F. THE NUT. A 13-million-year-old volcanic plug in Stanley, the Nut plateau offers panoramic vistas of Bass Strait and the tiny historic village of Stanley below. Climb to the top of the 143m-high sheer-sided bluff, or sit back, relax and ride a chairlift to its summit.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA

DON’T MISS TASMANIA’S BEST AUTUMN EVENTS

Ever wanted to bottle your own whisky? Hellyers Road Distillery makes it possible. Pour, wax and seal your very own bottle in the working distillery, ending in the American Oak barrel room, before treating yourself to a towering scotch-fillet burger marinated in single malt whisky.


Promotion I TASMANIA

B .B. RATHO FARM GOLF.

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Settle into a cottage, play a round of golf and join a flyfishing guide to step into the rhythms of life in the 1800s. Home to Australia’s oldest golf course, Ratho Farm follows in the traditions of Old Scotland. The grounds boast a public golf course, trout streams and a homestead full of colourful stories. In Autumn, English trees light up the property in blazing shades.

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Sleeping in the wilderness needn’t mean forgoing creature comforts. Named in Lonely Planet’s top three place to stay in 2018, Thousand Lakes Lodge is housed in a former training base for Antarctic expeditions. Encounter resident wombats, take a guided fly-fishing trip or pedal away on an electric bike..

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E. TARKINE DRIVE. Head off the beaten track and into the wilderness on the Tarkine Drive. The touring loop takes travellers through dramatic natural landscapes; past lookouts surrounded by tall eucalypts, rivers embraced by temperate rainforest, mirror-still lakes, flooded limestone sinkholes and old myrtle forests.

For an effortless yet adrenalinepacked adventure you’ll never forget, take in the stunning wilderness of Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park from the air on a helicopter tour. Add a touch of romance and ask your pilot to drop you on top of a mountain HO BA peak looking down RT HO TO BA over the lakes. ME RT L

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ON THE COVER: A hiker admires the view from Cape Pillar on Tasmania’s Three Capes Track PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES

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contents MARCH 2018

EXPERIENCE

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14 I WHAT’S ON

52 I PHOTO ESSAY Scour the streets of Saigon

16 I NEWS 20 I MY PLACE Laura Dundovic reveals her favourite Gold Coast finds

22 I THE SHORTLIST Five events and products for your canine companion

24 I HOW-TO Become a yogi on the go

27 I DRINK UP The Bloody Mary that’ll blow your mind

29 I FOOD TREND

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EXPLORE

61-79 I DESTINATION OF THE MONTH Trace Tasmania from capital to coast

80 I SHOPPING IN BALI Clothes, throws and trinkets: the little black book of shops

89 I WHALE WATCHING Close encounters with gentle giants across Australia

97 I CRAFT BEER IN ASIA Asia’s best boutique brews

106 I MOUNT RUAPEHU

Sustainable dining

Ski over volcanoes in NZ

33 I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

114 I LAND OF PLENTY

How to spend “Mad March” in Adelaide

From farm to fork in WA’s Southern Forests

121 I CYCLE CITY

37 I HEALTH

Explore Melbourne by bike

Surfin’ USA: catch some waves in Oahu

168 I BACKPAGE Tales from row 57

38 I BEAUTY Raid your pantry for these secret skincare fixes

40 I SPA & WELLNESS Find serenity in a Sydney suburb

42 I RECIPE

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ESSENTIALS 134 I Jetstar news

An Easter treat with a twist

142 I Where we fly

45 I GET THE LOOK

149 I Games and puzzles

DIY native posies

48 I WORK AND PLAY Five social movements

155 I Entertainment guide

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Welcome I GROUP CEO

JETSTAR MAGAZINE is published for Jetstar Airways by Hardie Grant Media Building 1, 658 Church Street Richmond, Victoria, 3121, Australia

Jetstar reaches a new milestone

+61 3 8520 6444 hardiegrantmedia.com

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA For all editorial enquiries, please email JetstarMedia@hardiegrant.com.au Managing Director Nick Hardie-Grant Account Director Tiffany Sayers Managing Editor, Jetstar Simon Tsang Editor Krysia Bonkowski Deputy Editor Chloe Cann Subeditors Leanne Tolra and Diana Baxter Designers Natalie LaChina and Sarah McMillan Picture Editor Janet Gomes

ADVERTISING Sales and Partnerships Director Lauren Casalini +61 3 8520 6710 or email laurencasalini@hardiegrant.com

FOR FLIGHT RESERVATIONS

Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website: jetstar.com FOR HOTEL BOOKINGS & HOLIDAY PACKAGES

To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia, 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts in New Zealand, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels

© Hardie Grant Media. All material in Jetstar Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsiblity for the effects arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. All information is correct at press time. MCI (P) 171/01/2015. Jetstar Magazine is printed by PMP Limited.

We truly have changed the way people travel

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ince Jetstar first took to the skies in 2004, we have become one of the fastest growing airlines in the Asia Pacific. Recently we hit a huge milestone when our 250-millionth passenger checked in, and to celebrate we gave one lucky family a huge surprise. As the Daly family arrived at Melbourne Airport for their annual holiday to the Gold Coast, I joined our team to present them with the trip of a lifetime – a holiday for 10 people to anywhere on the Jetstar network. With 85 destinations to choose from, the family of five are spoilt for choice for their

next holiday – though their young children were quick to choose Hawaii as their dream destination. It was an incredible moment for the Daly family, and represented a far bigger picture about the role that Jetstar plays. We truly have changed the way people travel by making the world more accessible for everyone. Last year we carried 37 million people, and 24 million of those flew for under $100. It’s remarkable to think how far air travel has come in the last 14 years alone. Whether it’s Bali, Hawaii or Japan for the ultimate adventure – or the Whitsundays, Byron Bay or Perth for a domestic coastal trip – I have no doubt the Daly family will be able to make the most of this amazing opportunity. Thanks for flying with us today, I hope you enjoy your trip.

Gareth Evans Jetstar Group CEO

Meet the Daly family!

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The new star of Surfers’ Paradise

Vibe Hotel Gold Coast is the best place to take in all the excitement of Surfers’ Paradise after its recent multi-million dollar refurbishment. The hotel’s contemporary new design reflects the sand, surf and turquoise water beyond, complete with new look lobby, a stunning pool deck with private poolside cabanas and open-air dining. Driftwood Social, the new place to dine offers a retro Miami pool club feel, a fresh and vibrant menu, classic cocktails, and a relaxing ambiance overlooking the tranquil Nerang River.

Book Now Be revived. Be here.

vibehotels.com


Surf’s up in paradise

There are few more scenic spots to ride the waves than on Oahu. Study the sport’s basics steps without getting your feet wet by flicking to page 37.

PHOTOGRAPHY MARK DAFFEY

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LIFE I STYLE I PEOPLE I PLACES I NEWS


Experience I WHAT’S ON

It’s sakura season in Japan

March Add these fun and fascinating things happening across the Jetstar network to your bucket list this month

Handa Opera on Sydney Harbour 23 March to 22 April Sydney, New South Wales

WOMADelaide 9-12 March Adelaide, South Australia

A four-day program of world music acts hailing everywhere from Canada to Cape Verde, WOMADelaide is Australia’s ultimate eye-opening gathering of music, arts and dance.

Promising to transport spectators from an autumn evening on Sydney Harbour to Paris on Christmas Eve, this production of opera La Bohème marries a romantic open-air setting with Puccini’s love story for the ages. opera.org.au

womadelaide.com.au

Tiwi Islands Grand Final and Art Sale 18 March Tiwi Islands, Northern Territory

Formula 1 Australian Grand Prix

22-25 March Melbourne, Victoria One of the oldest surviving motor racing competitions in the country, the Australian Grand Prix promises plenty of action for car buffs and fledgling fans alike on the track at Albert Park Grand Prix Circuit. grandprix.com.au

World Science Festival

Tastes of Rutherglen

Find family-friendly fun at the annual World Science Festival, held across Townsville, Brisbane and Toowomba. There’ll be controlled explosion demonstrations, talks about frogs and presentations from so-called “mathemagicians”. worldsciencefestival.com.au

Hop between 19 wineries at this progressive food and wine festival in High Country Victoria. Merrymakers will enjoy fine local produce paired with shiraz, sparkling and riesling from one of the oldest wine growing areas in Australia. tastesofrutherglen.com.au

21-25 March Across Queensland

10-11 March Rutherglen, Victoria

The so-called “islands of smiles” boast two standout features: the local art scene and an infinite love for the AFL. Enjoy both at the Tiwi Islands Grand Final and Art Sale, where paintings, prints and carvings are for sale, and footy legends are born. jilamara.com

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM NT / SHAANA MCNAUGHT, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION / GRANT HANCOCK

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

JAPAN

Cherry Blossom Festival

Late March to early April Tokyo, Japan For two short weeks each year Japan erupts into a bubblegum pink bloom. Signalling the start of spring, this floral spectacular attracts visitors from far and near; Tokyo’s Ueno Park is a local favourite.

Bluesfest

29 March to 4 April Byron Bay, New South Wales Homegrown talent and international names line the bill at this Easter weekend music fest. Settle in to sets from Grammy award-winner Lauryn Hill, plus Seal and Tash Sultana. bluesfest.com.au

Estia Greek Festival 18 March Hobart, Tasmania

Taking over a Hobart street for one day, the 25th Estia Greek Street Festival is a riot of music, dance, lamb and loukoumades (Greek doughnuts). greekcommunitytas.com.au

Fremantle International Street Arts Festival 29 March to 2 April Perth, Western Australia

Bitumen is the backdrop for all manner of performances at this Fremantle festival (think roving entertainers and street theatre at designated “pitches”). streetartfestival.com.au

It’s a great month to… SAVOUR the sweet chords of the West Australian Symphony Orchestra during the Festival of Chamber Music, 2-3 March. waso.com.au

GEAR UP for International Women’s Day (8 March) with the “All About Women” talks at the Sydney Opera House on 4 March. sydneyoperahouse. com

DEMOLISH the innovative plates on offer at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, from 16-25 March. melbournefoodand wine.com.au

Māoriland Film Festival 21 to 25 March Ōtaki, New Zealand

Celebrating its fifth birthday in 2018, this international Indigenous film festival takes place in tiny Ōtaki, 70km north of Wellington. Expect workshops, art exhibitions and screenings in some singular venues. maorilandfilm.co.nz

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Experience I NEWS

INTERVIEW

Q&A with Colin Hay INTERVIEW JUSTINE COSTIGAN

I fly back into LAX and drive home, hugging the ocean, I am always struck by a palpable euphoria and the idea that anything is possible.

What are the things you always look forward to doing when you’re back in Australia?

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Tasmania is fast becoming one of our most popular Australian destinations, with inbound tourism to Hobart and Launceston on the rise. In this edition you can read about what’s making Tasmania so in-demand. From the food and wine scene in Hobart, to rafting and kayaking along the state’s most pristine waterways and exploring the wilderness, there really is something for everyone. You can read more from page 61. Bali continues to be our most popular international destination for Australian travellers, and we recently increased the number of flights we operate into Bali from Melbourne and Brisbane. Check out page 80 for the best shopping Bali has to offer ahead of your next trip to the popular South East Asian holiday hotspot. If you’re on the hunt for travel inspiration, in this edition you can also take a close-up look at migrating whales across Australia, the volcanic ski slopes of Mt Ruapehu on New Zealand’s North Island and sample the wares of Asia’s craft beer boom. I hope you enjoy your flight with us today, and we look forward to welcoming you back on board again soon. Dean Salter, CEO Jetstar Australia and New Zealand

Scottish-Australian Colin Hay rose to prominence as the frontman of band Men at Work in the early 1980s. Following the band’s break up in ’85, Colin became a solo artist, and has continued to tour and release new music ever since. He has just wrapped up a national tour in support of his latest album, Fierce Mercy. Where did you grow up in Australia and how often do you go back? My family emigrated from Scotland in 1967, and I grew up in Beaumaris, a leafy, very orderly bay-side suburb of Melbourne. I used to visit quite often when my parents were alive, but not so much since they passed away. Occasionally, I go and have coffee where I used to go with them, just so I can conjure them up in my mind. I miss them.

Where is home for you now, and what do you love about it? I live in Los Angeles. There are so many things I love about LA, but mainly, when

First, I always like to wander round [my old] neighbourhood, sniff the air, walk by the water and past people I vaguely know, but who look older now. I find myself making my way to Mario’s on Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, for coffee, South Melbourne market early for breakfast and I’ve been craving one of those grilled cheese sandwiches from the Prahran Market. When I come back to Melbourne, I’m constantly walking through memories, both beautiful and sad. Once the band gets here, and we’re out on the road, it’s all about the show and the people who got off the sofa and came out to see us.

When Down Under was released in 1981 it quickly became an iconic Australian song. Does it still speak to you of the Australia you know now? Down Under still speaks to me every night when I play it – it is part of who I am. When I wrote Down Under it felt like a powerful song. It was embraced, though quite misunderstood. It happens to a lot of songs. The Australia I knew then was a land of great beauty, timelessness, and turbulence, with a complicated, unresolved past. It still is.

What was your last holiday? I don’t take holidays. I probably should. colinhay.com

PHOTO PAUL CÉZANNE / BERTHE MORISOT ©PHOTO MUSÉE D’ORSAY / RMN

Welcome on board


Experience I NEWS

JUST OPENED

THE CULTURE PICK

France lands in Adelaide Let your retinas run over more than 65 impressionist paintings from Paris’ Musée d’Orsay at the newest exhibition to grace the walls of the Art Gallery of South Australia. See the brush strokes of Monet, Manet, Renoir and more at the Colours of Impressionism: Masterpieces from the Musée d’Orsay this autumn. From March 29 to July 29. artgallery.sa.gov.au

¡ARRIBA ARRIBA!

The margaritas will flow when Rockpool Dining Group opens Bar Patrón on 8 March, with views of Sydney’s Circular Quay. Neil Perry supervises a modern Mexican menu and the bar’s stocked exclusively with Patrón Tequila. barpatron.com.au

ABOVE: Berthe Morisot’s L’hortensia. RIGHT: Paul Cezanne’s Le golfe de Marseille vu de l’Estaque.

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WE’RE LOVING

SLICK STREET EATS

Pan-Asian plates here

The only constant at Melbourne newcomer HWKR is the kooky and contemporary interior. Devour innovative takes on South East Asian staples at its staggered stair-style seating booths, framed by neon emojis and stacked tins of lychees. The hawker-concept eatery features four kitchens with a roster of creative local and global names taking up three-month tenancies, including Masterchef alum Diana Chan and HK-born Bread & Beast for the initial run. hwkr.com.au


Experience I NEWS

THREE OF A KIND

Female-friendly finds

TREND WATCH

in honour of International Women’s Day (8 March)

Women of wine

Tech talk 18

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With women accounting for less than a fifth of the IT workforce in Australia, Scottish expat Ally Watson (right) and cofounder Vanessa Doake (left) are on a mission to demystify coding for women and girls. The result – Code Like a Girl – offers events and workshops across Sydney, Adelaide and Melbourne at very affordable rates. codelikeagirl.org

Pitch a tent

If fluffy pillows and a glass of wine are the only things that could induce you to camp, Balgownie Estate Bendigo (balgownieestate.com.au) is your new rural go-to. The boutique vineyard began welcoming guests into its 15 luxury bell tents last month. The frenzy for vineyard glamping is spreading interstate too: McLaren Vale cellar door Serafino (serafinowines.com.au) in South Australia will offer a one-off night in lakeside tents on 21 April for Tasting Australia, with a four-course dinner under the stars. And Queensland’s Sirromet Winery (sirromet.com) will launch its own glamping experience among the vines come May.

TIME TO TRAVEL

Female footy

Following a solid inaugural season last year, women’s Aussie Rules Football is off to a roaring start in 2018. All but one of the fixtures are free to attend, and six new teams are lined up to join the AFLW ranks by 2020 as momentum builds still further. afl.com.au/womens

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DEAR NAPIER, Last month we incorrectly printed your location as the South Island of New Zealand when you are, in fact, on the east coast of the North Island. We’re sorry! Autumn is a perfect time to visit your beautiful city, to admire your Art Deco architecture and enjoy harvest season in the vineyards of Hawke’s Bay.

PHOTOGRAPHY STEVE WOODBURN, GETTY, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

The Sydney launch of Melbourne favourite Chin Chin heralded more than just the arrival of remarkable Thai food: the offshoot also delivered the Harbour City’s first all-female wine team. You can thank the trio for bringing bespoke tap wines to the masses, with a whole litre of riesling priced at a mere $49. chinchinrestaurant.com.au/ sydney


EARN MORE QANTAS POINTS

DESIGN YOUR DRIVE WITH AVIS

Close of business doesn’t have to mean end of play. Rent with Avis in Australia to earn four Qantas Points for every AU$1 spent on time and kilometre charges or earn 700 points per rental when travelling overseas.* Design your drive at the Avis counter.

*You must be a member of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program to earn points. Membership number must be quoted when booking to earn points. Membership and points are subject to the Qantas Frequent Flyer program terms and conditions available at Qantas.com/terms. A joining fee may apply. Four Qantas Points will be earned per AU$1 value on time and kilometre charges within Australia, excluding GST, insurance, package tour, government, travel industry, some corporate rates and miscellaneous charges. 700 Qantas Points are earned per rental overseas. For more information about earning points with Avis visit Qantas.com/au/en/book-a-trip/cars.html.


Experience I MY PLACE

Golden girl Queensland’s Gold Coast is a favourite of It Girl Laura Dundovic

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ustralian media personality Laura Dundovic isn’t one to sit still – the Sydney-born former Miss Universe Australia juggles modelling, TV appearances, a healthy Instagram following, nutrition coaching and a blossoming acting career, with her biggest role yet to be revealed

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in the upcoming Aussie romcom A Long Night. While based in Brisbane, the Gold Coast calls frequently to the beach-loving fitness fanatic, who seizes any opportunity to make the most of the “great beaches, friendly locals and top-notch cafés and restaurants” of the thriving coastal city. “The Gold Coast makes for a nice break from

my busy life,” Laura says. “The weather is great almost all year round ... I absolutely love being near water and on the beach – swimming, running, relaxing. It’s perfect.” Laura has become an ambassador for the recently opened Avani Broadbeach, and is sure to find herself Goldie-bound even more. Here she runs through a few of her favourite local spots.


Experience I MY PLACE

CLOCKWISE: Cocktails from Aloha Bar and Dining, the deck at Garden Kitchen & Bar, “Instaworthy” breakfasts from Elk Espresso.

ALOHA BAR AND DINING

PHOTOGRAPHY HAYLEY WILLIAMSON, AVANI BROADBEACH, ALOHA BAR AND DINING, GARDEN KITCHEN & BAR

PADDOCK BAKERY 20 Hibiscus Haven, Miami paddockbakery.com Whenever I’m down the coast I make sure to visit Paddock Bakery. It’s a great local spot, perfect to hit after a morning ocean swim. It’s a patisseriestyle bakery that not only creates some of the most delectable doughnuts in town, but also serves up a delightful breakfast menu – the acai bowls are amazing.

TEN JAPANESE 2669-2679 Gold Coast Highway, Broadbeach teppanten.com.au A stylish fine-dining experience that blends modern cuisine with traditional sushi and teppanyaki elements, as well as an A-grade wine and sake list. Try the degustation; every dish is a work of art.  

BURLEIGH BREWING COMPANY 2 Ern Harley Drive, Burleigh Heads burleighbrewing.com.au Peta and Brennan Fielding have brought a little piece of Hawaii to the Gold Coast with their laidback and authentic brewing company. A definite must if you’re a beer enthusiast.

18 Main Place, Broadbeach alohabaranddining.com.au This place is so much fun! The menu is a fusion of Hawaiian, Caribbean and Asian cuisine, which means you can tuck into kalua pork tacos and shiitake mushroom dumplings, all while sipping on a mojito.

by the force of a waterfall over an erosive basalt cave, and if you stay after the sun goes down you can see glow worms light up surrounding caves.

GARDEN KITCHEN & BAR

PACIFIC FAIR Hooker Boulevard, Broadbeach pacificfair.com.au I love the beach but for the days where I’ve had enough vitamin D, I’ll be at Pacific Fair Shopping Centre. It’s the biggest shopping centre in Queensland and has my favourite Australian and international brands – from David Jones to Mecca and H&M – so you won’t be short on options.

ORACLE BOULEVARD The Oracle Boulevard, Broadbeach theoracleboulevard.com.au If you’re looking for a bit of luxury by the beach, Oracle Boulevard has you covered. It is a strip of restaurants, bars, cafés and shops, and has a more relaxed atmosphere than other shopping centres. It’s a favourite when I’m in the mood to swim then shop. Social Eating House on Oracle Boulevard is one of my favourites.

uradundo FOLLOW: @la

vic

Keep up to date with Laura on Instagram ELK ESPRESSO Oasis Shopping Centre, Shop G044/2 Charles Ave, Broadbeach A stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of the CBD is Elk Espresso, where a visionary menu of Instaworthy breakfast spreads are every bit as much a feast for the eyes as the mouth. Get there early – the locals flock to this café.

NATURAL BRIDGE Springbrook National Park The Gold Coast is close to so many beautiful waterfalls. Far south-west of the city is one of my favourites – Natural Bridge. The bridge was formed

Casino Level, The Star Gold Coast, Broadbeach star.com.au/goldcoast Grab a glass of frosé or a cocktail from the bar and head to the lush outdoor deck; it’s the perfect spot for a Sunday afternoon catch up. Check out their website before you go – they always have great pop-ups going on.

BURLEIGH HEADS BEACH Burleigh Heads Burleigh Heads beach is my goto. It’s a little bit less crowded but still central, so when you’ve had enough of the sun you can pop down the road to amazing bars and restaurants.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to the Gold Coast from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

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Experience I THE SHORTLIST

One stylish hound

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2 1

OF THE BEST

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Dog-friendly finds In celebration of the Chinese Year of the Dog, here are five pawfect products and experiences for dog lovers across the network WORDS CHLOE CANN

1. OUTBACK TAILS

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outbacktails.com You don’t need to have deep pockets to own a piece of Indigenous art, thanks to new Australian brand Outback Tails. From colourful, patterned ceramic dog bowls, to collars, leads and dog beds, every item on offer through the company’s online store showcases the dreaming stories of Mina Mina country in the Northern Territory’s Central Desert Region, all designed by local Aboriginal artist Pauline Napangardi Gallagher.

2. PAWESOME PRIVATE TOURS Margaret River, WA grapeescapewa.com.au If wine and canines are your two loves, then this private tour around Margaret River will have you in raptures. Explore a handful of the region’s 200plus wineries in the company of husband and wife team (and fellow dog devotees) Paul and

Geri. It’s BYO furry friends for groups of up to seven, with pit stops solely at pup-friendly venues.

3. THE BIG DOG WALK Around New Zealand withlotsofdogs.com Mingle with fellow doggo fans, make new four-legged friends and parade your own pooch around at the third annual Big Dog Walk, taking place on 22 April across four New Zealand cities. There are free treats for your dog and it’s free to attend (though donations are welcome).

4. SCOTLAND ISLAND DOG RACE Sydney, NSW scotlandisland.org.au With a heritage that’s said to span back to 1974, the annual Scotland Island Dog Race is a firm fixture in Sydney’s pet racing calendar. Every Christmas Eve, tens of Fidos (and their humans) assemble

at Bells Wharf Reserve in Sydney’s Northern Beaches for the 600-metre doggie paddle back to the mainland. Entry to the race is a cold longneck and a large tin of dog food, and owners can opt to swim, kayak or SUP their way to the finish line alongside their furbabies.

5. DOGAPALOOZA Adelaide and Melbourne Find the event pages on Facebook Pooches galore, live folk music, veggo-friendly barbecues and BYO wine – Dogapalooza is the only festival that dog lovers should have on their radar. What’s more, the charity music event is held in aid of local, independent animal rescue and advocacy organisations, so festival-goers can rest easy with their canine (or the sociable puppers of others) safe in the knowledge that the funds are going to a worthy cause.

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN SEARCY, ALEC SMART PHOTOGRAPHY

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Experience I HOW-TO

How to

YOGA ON

Find your inner yogi

It’s the ancient practice that’s spawned a modern obsession – here’s how to keep up (or start) your yoga practice, even on the road WORDS EMMA MARKEZIC

Namaste here

If the pants fit

If you’ve never been to a yoga class before you’ll hear lots of unfamiliar words, but you’ll learn the lingo in no time. Asanas are poses, pranayama is being aware of your breathing and namaste is a salute meaning “my soul honours your soul”. You’ll also hear a lot about chakras (thought to be the energy centres of the body), not to mention all the different types of yoga – yin or hatha are the best for beginners, while bikram and ashtanga are usually more advanced.

Yoga pants are not just for yogis any more. It seems as though everyone, from baristas to barristers, is spending weekends in activewear. The great thing about yoga gear is that’s it’s light, and perfect for travel. “I keep it pretty simple – tights, comfy crop top and tee,” says Steph Scott, founder of Sydney-based community yoga project Lovesweats. “Perfect for packing, wearing on the plane or wandering around a new city. Oh, and for yoga, of course!”

Pack yoga pants here Yoga is for posers... ... literally, since it’s all about the positions. If you want a bank of poses you can do anywhere, Steph suggests keeping it simple. “Flow between high plank (the peak of a push up) and downward dog (using your body to make an inverted V shape) before moving

through a few sun salutations (a forward lunge with hands held above your head in prayer).” You don’t even have to wait until you get to your location, either. “Seated cat-cow is a goodie on the plane,” Steph says. “This stretches your neck and shoulders – just what

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS

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ooted in the Hindu religion, yoga is a spiritual concept that predates Christianity. Of course, modern iterations with their leopard-print foam mats and $200 yoga pants are a far cry from the original Sanskrit texts of 1500 BC, but the core values of meditation, mindfulness and a connection between body and spirit remain. And smart yogis know the benefits (and the pants) can travel with you wherever you go.


Experience I HOW-TO

Don’t be late!

Strike a pose

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you need on a long trip.” In your seat, and with hands on your knees, roll forward until your spine makes a C-shape. Hold for 10 seconds before bending backwards to make an inverted C and holding again. Whoever said yogis were grounded clearly wasn’t into frequent flyer miles.

Talking in class is also a no-no, but get this ... flatulence isn’t

In good time Wherever in the world you’re laying your yoga mat, remember the one overriding rule of joining a group yoga class: don’t be late. Most studios won’t let anyone in once class has started – it’s considered disrespectful. “Ideally get there 10 minutes before, so you

get a chance to chat to the teacher and flag any health stuff,” says Steph, herself a yoga teacher who often leads Lovesweats’ classes. Talking in class is also a no-no, but get this ... flatulence isn’t. With all that bending, breathing and bowing, it happens to everyone, eventually.


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Experience I DRINK UP

Bloody Mary

For a bit of a kick

A Melbourne favourite’s riff on a classic WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

A good grind

Hair of the dog

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The essential ingredient

ILLUSTRATION TANYA COOPER

A special twist

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olling out of bed the morning after the night before, many Melburnians know Hanoi Hannah holds the key to their salvation. The mod-Vietnamese eatery – in Windsor and Elsternwick – is known for its take on the

Recipe Bloody Mary. Hanoi Hannah spikes the iconic brunch cocktail of vodka and tomato juice with Sriracha, citric yuzu soy and Vietnamese mint. The whole thing is finished off with three crunchy spring rolls for a hangover-busting drink and meal in one.

INGREDIENTS • 45ml Belvedere vodka • 15ml yuzu soy • 20ml lemon juice • 250ml tomato juice • 4-5 leaves of Vietnamese mint • Sriracha, to taste

GARNISH (OPTIONAL) • 3 mini vegetarian spring rolls • Thai basil • Cracked pepper • METHOD Combine all ingredients with ice in a highball glass and shake, shake, shake. Garnish to personal liking.


Are Your Hormones Making You Fat? Imagine waking up every morning to the sound of your alarm, excited and happy to be starting a new day. When you look in the mirror you admire your body. Everyone tells you how great you’re looking. Sound too good to be true? If you, like many other women, don’t feel this way, you may have a hormonal imbalance. Research has documented that over 40 per cent of women have an undiagnosed underactive thyroid gland. If you feel tired all the time, crave sugar, use alcohol and coffee to lift yourself, retain weight around your middle and feel the cold, you could be suffering from this problem. What Does Your Thyroid Do, and What Does This Mean For You? The thyroid gland is the major player in controlling how many calories you burn. It produces hormones that control the body’s metabolism. If your thyroid is underactive (hypothyroidism) it’s almost impossible to lose that spare tyre around your middle, no matter how many carbs you cut out or how many hours you spend on the treadmill. Blood Testing Current blood testing methods don’t tell the whole story. Blood tests (TSH) can only measure how much thyroid hormone you have in your blood – they can’t measure how well your hormones are working. So, if you do have a thyroid problem, it may not always be picked up. New Way of Testing American thyroid specialists, Dr. Konrad Kail and Dr. Daryl Turner have developed a quick and non-invasive medical thyroid screening test, that’s been used by US doctors for the past ten years to accurately diagnose thyroid issues. The good news is, once your thyroid function is accurately diagnosed, the medication and nutrients you need to get your thyroid balanced can be established. With a balanced thyroid your energy will increase, you will lose weight easily, and you’ll feel happier in yourself. Your health is your greatest asset, so, if you suspect that your thyroid isn’t quite right, don’t put off getting tested, you deserve to feel fantastic every day.

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Experience I FOOD TREND

Best piece of the beast

EATING FORGET KALE – THINK COMPOSTING, CONTAINERS AND RECYCLED COFFEE GROUNDS WORDS LACHEAN HUMPHREYS

PHOTOGRAPHY KATE SOMMER PHOTOGRAPHY

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new “clean” eating movement is devoted to dining with an eye to the environment. Every year millions of tonnes of food waste are tossed into landfill, along with takeaway cups, plastic containers and straws, but with many businesses doing the hard work and research for you, getting involved can be as easy as showing up and dining in (or out).

Closing the loop At Park Street Dining, an all-day café and restaurant in Melbourne’s inner north, composting is a staple of the business. “Our Gaia composting unit can process 100kg

of waste a day,” says chef and owner Jesse Gerner. “We compost all food waste that comes in from tables, including paper towels, coffee grounds, seafood, meat – even small bones.” The resulting nutrientrich water and biomass is used for the on-site herb and veggie garden. For $5 you can pick up a bag of compost while there, too. Jesse also runs Melbourne tapas bars Añada, Nómada and Bomba, where an extension to the rooftop bar is underway. “We’re trying to do more in kegs to save on bottles, and looking at [buying] an under-bar glass crusher,” he says.

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getting involved can be as easy as showing up and dining in In Sydney, Dan the Man is on a mission to become the first catering company in Australia to operate with zero waste. The caterers recently hosted a sit-down “nose-to-tail” dinner event. “We invited the number of people that a whole lamb would feed,” says general manager Ilana Cooper. “There were two long tables, and wherever you sat at the table dictated the part of the animal that you got: literally from head to tail.” At Dan the Man catered events, home-made sodas

are on offer to reduce plastics, and green waste goes to the local Rose Bay Community Garden, which offers public tours and workshops. For those wanting to support the business and impress at their next event, Dan the Man delivers pre-prepped cheese and antipasto platters around Sydney, and custom-made serving boards and spiced nut mixes Australia-wide.

The daily grind A booming coffee industry across Asia, Australia and New Zealand


Experience I FOOD TREND

Hotel. In Melbourne, try the mushies at Higher Ground or Top Paddock. Melbourne-based Reground also recycles coffee waste from iconic cafés St Ali, Sensory Lab and Allpress, and popular tourist spots including the Botanical Hotel and the Immigration Museum. Venues are provided with a Reground bin for coffee grounds, which is then collected and delivered to community gardens and home gardeners to help improve soil quality.

Better bring your own BYO packaging has been gathering momentum steadily, and for good reason – bringing your own takeaway container is a simple way to ease your plastic consumption. In Singapore, chain restaurant Aloha Poké actively encourages it. “As 75 per cent of our business is takeaway, we strongly promote our customers bringing their own containers,” says John Chen, one of the four founders. If you do,

LEFT TO RIGHT: Dan the Man’s nose-to-tail event, loading up an OzHarvest truck, Singapore’s Aloha Poké encourages BYO containers, shopping at The Source Bulk Foods.

you’ll be rewarded with an added ingredient to your poké bowl. Many cafés, like renowned Singaporean speciality coffee roaster Common Man Coffee Roasters, also offer discounts when you bring your own coffee cup. For plastic-free grocery shopping at five Sydney locations, head to Naked Foods – purveyors of organic, locally sourced loose nuts and lentils, dried fruits and preserves, and kitchen staples such as flour, rice, spices and tea. Containers and jars are supplied, but you are welcome to bring your own. The Source Bulk Foods is another option, stocking unpackaged health foods in gravity bins at dozens of locations around Australia, – BYO receptacles and take

only what you need.

Food to the rescue For food that is legally no longer fit for sale, but still deemed consumable, a last resort exists to save it ending up in the bin. Food rescue organisation OzHarvest started in Sydney with one van, but now operates nationally, collecting surplus food from commercial businesses and redistributing it to charities. The first “rescued food” supermarket, OzHarvest Market in southeastern Sydney suburb Kensington, opened last year. Here, you won’t find a cash register at the check out but a donation box – and you can feel confident whatever you give helps the mission to reduce food waste.

PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO, ALOHA POKÉ

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also accounts for a rise in waste. And it’s not only takeaway coffee cups, but the used coffee grounds that end up in landfill. A crowdfunding campaign helped get Perth-based Life Cykel – an initiative to use coffee waste to set up mushroom farms – up and running. The first farm opened in Fremantle in 2015, followed by farms in Margaret River, Melbourne and Noosa within a year. Coffee grounds are collected from local cafés and restaurants, and used to fertilise mushrooms. Once the mushrooms have been picked and sold to local eateries, the leftover soil is given to community gardens. Next time you head out to Margaret River, drop into participating wineries Brookwood Estate and Vasse Felix. In Fremantle head to The Flour Factory, a renovated, three-storey mill with a rooftop bar; oceanside Bib and Tucker; or the historic Norfolk


ADEL AIDE 13 - 22 APRI L


Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

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Adelaide

HOURS IN

Adelaide

THE BUSTLE OF ACTIVITY DURING MAD MARCH UNDERLINES ADELAIDE’S STATUS AS THE FESTIVAL CITY. YOU’D BE CRAZY TO MISS OUT ON THE ACTION

WORDS DAVID SLY

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PHOTOGRAPHY SHANE REID, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, SIA DUFF, BOTANIC GARDENS RESTAURANT

LATE MORNING Relax with a leisurely bike ride along the Torrens River Linear Park, a meandering green belt running through the city, from leafy foothills to the beach. Hire a bike and helmet for no charge from Free Bikes Adelaide, an initiative with 20 locations around the city, and a fleet of more than 200 bikes. Download the phone app to access a location map. bikesa.asn.au

BREAKFAST

MORNING

Get a dose of culture and conversation over breakfast at the Palais, the pop-up Adelaide Festival Club that floats on the Torrens Lake beside the Adelaide Festival Theatre. Host Tom Wright and a panel of informed guests discuss the day’s news and festival issues while you tuck into coffee and croissants, from 8am. adelaidefestival.com.au

Walk across King William Road into the leafy Pioneer Women’s Memorial Garden for Adelaide Festival’s free literary program. The world’s great authors can be heard in conversation over six days of Adelaide Writers’ Week, at hour-long sessions between 9.30am and 6pm from 3 to 8 March, with the first two days given over to Kids’ Weekend. adelaidefestival.com.au

LUNCH

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The floating Palais is one of the Fringe’s most popular pop-ups, cycling besides the Torrens River, seasonal fare at Botanic Gardens Restaurant, all-ages events at the Adelaide Writers’ Week.

Adelaide’s extraordinary botanical gardens are in the heart of the city. Paul Baker is the first chef at its elegant Botanic Gardens Restaurant to source about 50 ingredients from the garden and feature them in a seasonal menu. botanicgardensrestaurant. com.au


Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

LATE AFTERNOON

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Fringe performer Adam Halls, the Gluttony pop-up, new casual finediner Bistro Blackwood, cocktails from Mister Goodbar.

SHOWTIME

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DINNER Bistro Blackwood is the racy, eclectic casual diner from chef Jock Zonfrillo, who has built national fame through his radical presentation of Australian native cuisine at Restaurant Orana (located on the level above). Bistro Blackwood has a more informal and boldly cross-cultural menu, with prawn and fermented chilli roti, or kangaroo from the fire pit with quinoa and organic greens. bistroblackwood.com.au

Adelaide’s Fringe program features more than 5000 performers presenting shows at venues scattered throughout the city, from 16 February to 18 March. Sample everything from burlesque to bohemian theatre, madcap comedy to avant-garde music and be sure to check the box office for late tickets at bargain prices. adelaidefringe.com.au

LATER Gluttony is a pop-up city of Fringe performance tents in the city’s eastern parklands. Shows run until late, then the Fringe Club fires up. Hang out with performers after their shows, and expect to see some impromptu entertainment in the backstage lounge, deep into the night. gluttony.net.au

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Adelaide from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY DAM DAVIES, MEAGHAN COLES

Stroll from the garden to the adjacent East End alleyways for a cocktail. Try Mister Goodbar hidden in a loft above Union Street, or The Tasting Room, a laid-back lounge within the expansive East End Cellars independent wine shop, boasting many of SA’s coolest boutique wines. eastendcellars.com.au


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2018


Experience I HEALTH

Riding high If you’re going to learn to surf, you may as well start at the sport’s spiritual home – Hawaii’s North Shore

PHOTOGRAPHY MARK DAFFEY

WORDS MARK DAFFEY

ROCKWELL ‘ROCKY’ Canon hands me a surfboard that’s as big as a ship. “There are four steps to remember when you try to stand up,” says the former pro surfer and instructor at the Hans Hedemann Surf School on Oahu’s North Shore. “The first is to arch your back. You do that by placing your hands on the side of the board, level with your chest. “That’s going to help you with step two, which is to bring your knees up under your shoulders. The third step is to bring your front foot forward, to the line in the middle of the board. And the last is to stand on your feet and swivel so your toes face towards the side of the board.” I practise each step several times – dry runs, literally – before we paddle out into the surf in Turtle Bay. On my first attempt on dry land, I’m too upright. “Always try to stay low,” he says. “You can often correct errors if you keep low enough.” We then walk to the ocean, where Rocky estimates the waves to be one to two feet high – perfect for beginners. During winter, monster waves roll in here with monotonous regularity,

Watching the waves on Oahu’s North Shore. INSET: North Shore surf town Haleiwa.

Ready to ride

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Learn to surf endangering the lives of even the world’s best surfers. I’m lucky it isn’t winter. When Rocky spots an oncoming wave, he instructs me to swing my board around. “Here we go. Start paddling.” I paddle for all I’m worth. My board is so buoyant it glides effortlessly across the water. When the wave catches up I feel it surge beneath me, thrusting me towards the shoreline. “Arch!” he yells. So I arch. Step two: knees up. Step three: front foot forward. Step four: tumble backwards into the water.

BALI Quiksilver Bali Surf Academy brings 25 years of professional and surfindustry experience to its Legian Beach lessons. quiksilverbalisurf academy.com BONDI Let’s Go Surfing runs two-hour classes at Bondi, Maroubra and Byron Bay. letsgosurfing.com.au FIJI Two-hour lessons with Fiji Surf School include hotel pick-ups and dropoffs in and around Nadi. fijisurfco.com

When I paddle back to Rocky, he chastises me for being too slow to get my front foot into

position. So I keep that in mind on my next wave, only this time I topple forward; my feet aren’t properly centred. Next time, I run the four steps through my head as I paddle. Arch, knees, front foot, stand. And stay low. That’s five points. No wonder I’ve mucked up. I improve with each wave, standing up for a few seconds, and then a few seconds more. On my seventh wave, I manage to outlast the wave, riding it until it fizzles out near the beach. I’m a bona fide surfer. Next stop … Pipeline. hhsurf.com


Experience I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

Food for beauty

Edible ingredients are always on the menu for those seeking natural grooming regimens WORDS PETER BARRETT

E

All natural

cacao powder as a dry shampoo, or coloured with blitzed flower petals and used as a blusher; and whipped coconut oil and shea butter as a shaving cream.

It’s more like what can’t you use

“If you care about what goes into your body and know where your food comes from, this should be second nature,” Rebecca says. rebeccasullivan.com. au

PHOTOGRAPHY NASSIMA ROTHACKER ILLUSTRATIONS ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, ALAMY, GETTY IMAGES

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veryone has heard that a fresh slice of cucumber can soothe puffy eyes and help reduce water retention. But as the trend towards natural products grows, are there any other foods we can use on ourselves to look good? “It’s more like what can’t you use,” says Rebecca Sullivan, founder of the “granny skills” movement and author of books including Like Grandma Used to Make and The Art of the Natural Home. As historical examples, Rebecca cites Cleopatra adding milk to her bath, plus the age-old use of olive oil as a moisturiser and honey as an antibacterial, antimicrobial skin balm. “People think doing this from scratch takes a lot of time but most recipes only take 30 seconds – you whack a few things in a jar,” she says. Her other foodgrooming favourites include: sugar-andsalt body scrubs (add used coffee grounds on your cellulite to boost circulation); orange zest (for its anti-ageing properties); arrowroot flour mixed with


Experience I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

EDIBLE BEAUTY GLOSSARY

Cricketer John Hastings’ olive oil secret

Next time you want to treat yourself to some new beauty products, look to your pantry before the pharmacy

GREEN TEA Bursting with antioxidants called catechins, green tea is as soothing on your skin as it is in your teacup. Try placing a couple of used green tea bags on puffy under-eyes, or mixing green tea matcha powder with natural yoghurt for a soothing face mask.

COCONUT OIL You’ll hear this trendy nut oil touted as a stand-in for everything from toothpaste to shaving cream. Liquidise a little oil between your hands to use as a moisturerich make-up remover at night. Or use sparingly as a follicle-penetrating deepconditioner for your tresses.

Green is good

We hear you’re a fan of green olive balm. Why? It’s widely known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. I do a lot of travelling and obviously play cricket out in the sun a lot, so I use the balm quite a bit after a big day’s play.

HONEY A moisture-retaining “humectant” with antibacterial and antioxidant qualities, honey makes a sweet skincare hack. A small amount dabbed on blemishes can help fight acne, and a mix of honey and tea tree oil applied to torn cuticles or razor burn will soothe while warding off infection.

AVOCADO Your avocado habit might be damaging your savings, but it certainly won’t harm your skin. Chock full of natural oils and fats, the creamy flesh makes a nourishing – if messy – face or body mask. A mixture of egg white and mashed avocado is also touted to do wonders for dry hair.

The Melbourne Stars’ captain and Australian T20 player reveals his preference for a natural skin treatment

OATS As well as a healthy breakfast, oatmeal makes a handy (and thrifty) beauty product. Oats have soothing, anti-inflammatory properties, which can reduce itchiness caused by skin conditions – try soaking in a bath with a cup of uncooked oatmeal, or create a gentle scrub with a mix of oats, honey and water.

What does it feel like on the skin? I find that it’s very soothing, particularly if you’ve got a bit of sunburn. It just makes you feel really clean and fresh. Do you get any stick in the dressing room? Fifteen years ago you might have got a bit of stick, but now a few of the young boys have got straighteners and all sorts of hair gels and that sort of stuff. It’s a bit different. Olive Balm from Green Olive at Red Hill, $19.95 greenolive.com.au

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Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

Suburban serenity Relaxed, restored and revived: discover the treetop retreat that’s less than an hour’s drive from Sydney WORDS SHERIDEN RHODES

Finding inner peace

Afterwards I lay satiated, calmed like an upset infant Though it was the bath that first enticed me, it’s the food I’d return for. Dishes include vegan, buckwheat pancakes with stewed apple and cinnamon for breakfast, or red split lentil dahl in spiced tomato chutney – a riot of colour, where every mouthful feels like it’s doing you good. Days are bookended by yoga and meditation. In between, guests lose

themselves in mindful drawing, colouring beautiful mandalas (ritual symbols in Hinduism and Buddhism); attending nutritional talks; ambling around the billabong; and napping in a sundrenched hammock. Others disappear to the spa, reappearing with that post-treatment glow. Revived by nutritious food, early nights and relaxed hours spent drawing or daydreaming makes me feel like a child once more, and I leave ready to face the world again. Sheriden Rhodes was a guest of Billabong Retreat. billabongretreat.com.au

Try it here GWINGANNA Yogis love the magnificent open-sided pavilion; built from reclaimed timber, it overlooks the Gold Coast. gwinganna.com HUMMINGBIRD YOGA RETREAT One-day yoga retreats at this Mornington Peninsula getaway include a massage, facial and twocourse organic lunch. hummingbirdeco.com.au ANAHATA RETREAT Learn about sustainable living while delving into various yoga practices at this Golden Bay eco retreat. anahata-retreat.org.nz

PHOTOGRAPHY BILLABONG RETREAT

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I’M SOAKING alfresco in a freestanding tub on the balcony of my treetop room, looking out over an escarpment drenched with mist. Bird calls pierce the silence as steam rises from my Epsom salt bath. It rises too, in mesmerising wafts, from the natural billabong I can just make out through fogshrouded eucalypts. I’d arrived at Billabong Retreat wound up like a tight coil, drawn here not only because of its proximity to Sydney (only 43km northwest of the capital’s CBD), but also because of a picture I’d seen of the very bath I now soak in, convinced it’s the elixir for modernday stress. Earlier we’d shuffled in for yoga, some of us sprightly, others rubbing sleep from our eyes. I’d warmed myself first by the outdoor combustion fire, drawing guests to its radiating warmth. From there we discarded layers – socks, blankets, unhelpful thoughts – and submitted ourselves to our instructors’ gentle directions, moving trancelike until the blood started circulating. Afterwards I lay satiated, calmed like an upset infant, staring out at the relaxing green surrounds.


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Experience I RECIPE

X

marks the spot

DISCOVER THE UNCONVENTIONAL HOT CROSS BUN THAT’S DEVELOPED A CULT FOLLOWING IN AUCKLAND

WORDS ALICE GALLETLY

Get them while they’re hot

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Y

ou may be surprised to learn that the baker behind the best hot cross buns in Auckland (some would say the world) is a self-described “strange Jewish girl” from Tel Aviv. “It’s a bit of a joke, isn’t it?” laughs Yael Shochat, chef and owner of the celebrated Middle Eastern restaurant Ima Cuisine – the irony of a Jewish girl specialising in a Christian

tradition is not lost on her. “I’m not religious at all, but still ...” What’s no joke is the reverence held for her buns, which have achieved a cult-like status among Aucklanders over the past decade. They are sweetened with honey and loaded with fruit peel and fresh spices, but the thing that really sets them apart are the crosses. Ordinarily these would be made from a paste of flour and water, but Yael’s are

formed from a decadent vanilla custard. “I found this recipe for hot cross buns with custard crosses by someone from the Culinary Institute of America years ago and I loved it,” Yael says. “You’ve got a bun that’s spicy and fruity, and the vanilla custard really balances it out. I’ve never seen it anywhere else. I’ve adapted the recipe and made it my own, and people go crazy for them.”

The hot cross buns go on sale at Ima around a month before Easter, and are regularly snapped up before most people have had a chance to hit the snooze button. If you walk past Ima during these weeks, you’ll likely see a flourdusted Yael through the window, kneading dough, breaking up cinnamon sticks and scraping vanilla pods in preparation for the next batch. As Good Friday


Experience I RECIPE

THE BUNS

Yael’s hot cross buns MAKES 12 BUNS

approaches, production steps up to meet orders. “On the Thursday before Easter we work all day and all night making buns. Last year we made 1500. This year we’re adding an extra team so we can hit the 2000 mark.” You might expect the recipe to be a closely guarded secret, but Yael shared her winning formula in her 2016 cookbook Ima Cuisine. For those who want to recreate her buns at

home, she has a few words of advice. “The most important thing is that I grind my spices fresh – it makes a big difference. Don’t be stingy with good mixed peel and currants, and if you don’t like currants, use dark chocolate.” And once the buns are ready? “Toast them under the grill and spread butter on them while they’re hot. Delicious.”

METHOD Combine flour, butter, honey, yeast and milk in a stand mixer or mixing bowl. Knead on a low setting for 10 minutes, then add salt and spices and knead for a further 5 minutes. If mixing by hand, transfer mixture to a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Add salt and spices and knead for a further 10 minutes. Transfer dough to an oiled bowl, cover and leave to rise in a warm spot until doubled in size (around 1.5 hours). Meanwhile, make the sugar syrup by bringing sugar and water to the boil in a small saucepan. Simmer for one minute, remove from heat and set aside. Once the dough has risen, knead in currants and peel until evenly distributed. Divide dough into 12 and shape into round, even buns. Place on a lined baking tray and leave to rise for a further 30 minutes, until each has doubled in size. While the dough is rising make the pastry cream. Mix cornflour, sugar and eggs into a paste. In a pot, bring the milk and vanilla bean to the boil, then add butter and paste and continue to cook, whisking

• 850g (6 cups) strong bread flour • 125g unsalted butter, softened • 175g honey • 60g fresh yeast (or 20g instant dry yeast) • 500ml milk, at room temperature • 2 tbsp flaky salt, crushed • 2 tbsp ground cinnamon • 2 tsp ground nutmeg • tsp ground cloves • 250g currants • 125g mixed peel

PASTRY CREAM CROSSES • 50g cornflour • 70g caster sugar • 2 large eggs • 400ml whole milk • ½ vanilla bean • 40g unsalted butter, at room temperature

SUGAR SYRUP • 150g caster sugar • 125ml water

until thickened. Remove from heat and leave to cool, mixing regularly to prevent a skin forming. Using the tip of a sharp knife, score the buns with crosses. Bake at 180°C for 15 minutes. Pipe a cross of pastry cream into the scored lines on the buns. Return to the oven and bake for a further 10 minutes, until buns are medium brown. Allow buns to cool for 5 minutes before brushing the tops with sugar syrup.

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Experience I GET THE LOOK

Fun & functional

GARDEN DESIGNS RIVERSIDE GARDEN BY ROSSU DESIGN (MAIN), HOBBIT’S RETREAT (BOTTOM) BY SCOTT MCKENZIE

Going

A

s autumn moves in, the World Heritagelisted Carlton Gardens will once again transform for the Melbourne International Flower & Garden Show (21-25 March). Among the tropical orchids and imported succulents, horticultural enthusiasts may note a trend for native Australian flora. With more gardeners

seeking out lowermaintenance and drought-tolerant species, native gardens are surging in popularity. Indigenous plants have evolved to their ecosystems, so they require less care and – importantly – less water. They also attract native wildlife, such as butterflies and birds. And with more endemic species than 98 per cent of the world’s

Native banksia bloom at the 2017 Melbourne International Flower & Garden Show. MAIN: A private garden by Ross Uebergang (INSET).

nations, sourcing native Australian plants is not difficult. Melbourne landscape designer Ross Uebergang of Ross U Design specialises in sustainable gardens. For his 2018 show entry, the Unity Garden, Ross collaborated with Japanese designer Yousuke Yamaguchito to integrate flora from Victoria’s Grampians region into an open-air living space inspired by Japanese tea ceremonies. This cross-cultural design shows off the versatility of native gardens, and is an exercise in sustainability. “Native plants help repair ecologies, and create habitats for the local fauna,” says Ross. He suggests going one step further than

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Native plants help repair ecologies sourcing Australian species by investing in plants endemic to your region. “Often local plants will grow without much input as well, so it can mean less maintenance,” he says. Native plant nurseries will be able to advise you on indigenous plants, and talk you through integrating them into your own garden. rossu.com.au melbflowershow.com.au


Experience I GET THE LOOK

Aussie oasis Create a low-maintenance but lush garden with textural native plants, warm wood pieces, earthy tones and touchable fabrics This rain garden by Holmesglen Institute’s Ben Griek won a ribbon at the Melbourne International Flower & Garden Show 2017.

Three to try These iconic native plants deliver character and colour

A cosy nook

KANGAROO PAW

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Hailing from Western Australia, this striking flowering plant is a favourite with birds

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XANTHORRHOEA Also known as the grass tree, many of the 30-odd varieties are fire resistant

4. 6. 5. 1. NATIVE SWINSON Shady Tree cushion, from $78, thedesignhunter.com.au 2. FERM LIVING Concrete pot in ochre, $46, au.amara.com 3. FREEDOM Hayman outdoor chair, $299, freedom.com.au 4. MISSONI HOME Sabaudia cushion, $553, au.amara.com 5. FERM LIVING Plant box in ochre, $113, au.amara.com 6. FENTON&FENTON Woodrow Tooth Stump, $300, fentonandfenton.com.au

SILVER PRINCESS This pretty eucalypt has weeping boughs and bright blossoms

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL FLOWER & GARDEN SHOW

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

Make a move(ment) Cold hard cash isn’t the only way to make a difference. Dermot O’Gorman of WWF-Australia, which organises the annual Earth Hour, explains how action can be just as effective WORDS VANESSA MULQUINEY

What do you do? As CEO of WWF-Australia, I am privileged to run Australia’s largest notfor-profit conservation organisation with a million supporters. Our goal is to stop the destruction of nature and for mankind to live in harmony with nature.

Any advice for other social entrepreneurs? Though our “Hackathons for the Planet” we invite passionate individuals to come together and figure out how we should develop our future cities to meet the UN Sustainable Development Goals. We have learnt that Australia has some amazing young entrepreneurs who have

Turning out the lights for a good cause. INSET: WWF-Australia CEO Dermot O’Gorman.

skills and passion, so my advice is join one of our hackathons and get started. How did Earth Hour begin? Earth Hour began as a home-grown Aussie idea, when [in Sydney in 2007] more than 2.2 million people [and 2,100 businesses] switched off their lights for one hour as a symbolic act to support stronger climatechange action. It has grown into a worldwide phenomenon. Last year, we had 187 countries and territories take part.

Earth Hour celebrated its 10th anniversary last year. What are the successes you’re most proud of? In 2017, Earth Hour Australia partnered with Queensland-based charity Solar Buddy to provide 500 portable solar lights to rural and in-need communities in Ethiopia. Charged by the sun and easily assembled, they provide hours of light and replace carbon-intensive kerosene lamps. This year the program will grow to support communities in Papua New Guinea.

What does the future of Earth Hour look like? Over the next three years we will focus on biodiversity, how climate change impacts nature and how biodiversity loss exacerbates climate change. We would like Earth Hour to be the moment that unifies and reconnects all global citizens to our beautiful planet, so please do your part. Earth Hour takes place on Saturday March 24, at 8.30pm local time. earthhour.org.au wwf.org.au

PHOTOGRAPHY WWF-AUSTRALIA, MOTHER’S DAY CLASSIC, ONE NIGHT STAND / GENERAL PANTS , SEASIDE SCAVENGE

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What does your average day look like? There is no such thing as an average day in my job – it reflects the wide range of sustainable development issues that WWF works on, both in Australia and around the world. My role involves travel to see the work done by the WWF team firsthand, and I’m amazed at what individuals and groups are doing to make a difference.

Making a difference


Experience I WORK & PLAY

Start your own cause TAKE ACTION WITH THESE SOCIAL MOVEMENTS ACROSS THE COUNTRY 1. SLEEP EASY Invest in sleepwear with a conscience when you buy from home-grown label One Night Stand. From plain tees to silk shorts, embroidered bralettes and snug robes, each purchase means a meal for a young homeless person through partner OzHarvest. On top of that, half of all profits are donated to employment and shelter projects for those in need. Find One Night Stand’s latest range on General Pants Co’s online store. onenightstandsleepwear.com.au

1

2 3. TRADE TRASH FOR TREASURE Quaff a frothy, listen to local musicians play sweet tunes, pick up some pre-loved wares and keep Australia’s dreamy coastline immaculate in the process – it’s all in a day’s work for the altruistic individuals who take part in a Seaside Scavenge. To date, the event has helped remove more than 5300 kilograms of litter from the shores of Victoria, Queensland and New South Wales. The waste collected is used as currency for secondhand clothes, books and more, all donated by the wider community. seasidescavenge.org

2. MOTHER’S DAY CLASSIC Walk or run, fly solo or bring a friend – the options for getting involved in with the annual Mother’s Day Classic fun run and walk are many. Held in aid of the National Breast Cancer Foundation, the event seeks to raise funds and awareness for breast cancer research. mothersdayclassic. com.au

The Leukaemia Foundation’s World’s Greatest Shave is one of the top three fundraising events in Australia, generating more than $20 million each year. By all standards, it’s one of the most successful social movements in the country, and sees generous Aussies shave, colour or wax their hair and beards in solidarity with people battling blood cancer. “The World’s Greatest Shave is a really amazing event because it’s loads of fun but for a very serious reason,” says Dave Simms, head of community signature events for the foundation. “For many people, hair forms a big part of part of their identity so shaving your head is a very personal sacrifice and a bold statement to the world.” “If you want to start your own social movement you need to be very clear about what you’re asking your supporters to do and make sure there is a strong connection to the cause.” “Make it as easy as possible for your supporters to get involved. Take every opportunity to educate them on your cause so that they become your advocates. Give them tools to help them achieve their goal in a way that’s easy to understand and put into action,” Dave says.

3

Get sponsored to shave your hair and help Aussie families beat blood cancer 14-18 March. worldsgreatestshave.com

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Whale of a tale

Grab your binoculars and have the camera ready – come May the annual whale migration will start along Australia’s coasts. Read our guide to sighting the gentle giants on page 89.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM & EVENTS QUEENSLAND

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TASMANIA I BALI I CRAFT BEER I AND MORE


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PHOTOGRAPHER ARNAUD FOUCARD

French-born photographer Arnaud Foucard leads photography tours around his atmospheric adopted home Ho Chi Minh City

The streets of Saigon

VIETNAM I HO CHI MINH CITY

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Life at street level (left to right) A cheery couple scoots through Saigon’s congested streets Vendors peddle their wares at open-air stalls A colourful display of vegetables for sale


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56


Pedal power: A local navigates the backstreets in Saigon’s Chinatown, Cholon. This busy district is one of Arnaud’s favourite places to document.

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Explore I HO CHI MINH CITY

Seen on the street Photographer Arnaud Foucard found a new home in vibrant Ho Chi Minh City WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

A 58

rnaud Foucard’s first sojourn in Ho Chi Minh City (also known by its former name Saigon) lasted six productive months, as the Parisian photographer soaked up a new and fascinating environment. “Everything was so different: the culture, lifestyle, rhythm, climate, light, colours, smells and cooking – a whole new world opened up to me, full of great photographic opportunities,” he says. After returning time and time again, Arnaud decided to make the move permanent, relocating first to Hanoi in 2000 then to Saigon five years later, where he still lives with his wife Thuong. With his speciality in street photography, Arnaud found Saigon a source of limitless inspiration. “Street life in Ho Chi Minh City – and more widely in South East Asia – is the soul of the city. Everything happens in the street,” he says. “We don’t come here to visit the monuments, but rather to take in the energy of the bustling boulevards of mopeds and to get lost in the small alleys full of life.” Some of his favourite subjects are the people

VIETNAM Ho Chi Minh City

About the photographer

You just have to be curious and walk off the beaten track to fall on superb subjects of Saigon themselves: the fruit and veg vendors going door-to-door, cooks at curbside restaurants, cyclo drivers and people selling everything from lottery tickets to banh mi (Vietnamese baguettes). Drawing on a past life as a tour operator, Arnaud shares his insider’s view with his business Vietnam Photo Adventures, leading photographic day tours around Saigon and

the greater Mekong Delta. In Saigon, Arnaud helps visitors explore the bustling city’s hidden nooks and corners. “I help them to look outside of the box – Saigon’s streets and walls are full of colours and textures,” he says. “You just have to be curious and walk off the beaten track to fall on superb subjects to photograph.” Arnaud also stresses the importance of respecting your subjects. “One of the things I teach is how not to feel intrusive – how to engage with the Saigonese so that taking a portrait becomes a moment of sharing, rather than a stolen moment.”

Arnaud Foucard helps photography enthusiasts hone their skills with daily tours through the streets of Ho Chi Minh City, as well as multi-day trips to some of Vietnam’s most photogenic corners. vietnamphotoadventures .com

FOLLOW: @ar

naudfoucard.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Ho Chi Minh City direct from Melbourne and Sydney. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM


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Introducing

Tasmania y l t c e ir d

Whether it’s to escape the heat, soothe the soul or do something adventurous...if you choose to explore Tassie, be prepared as there’s never a dull moment. The island might look small on a map, but it’s much bigger on the inside once you step foot upon Tassie’s shores. Uncover stories, meet the locals and create an epic island adventure wherever you roam; the dramatic landscapes and secluded beaches aren’t half bad either. So why not experience some Tassie tales with direct flights from Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney or Brisbane. For the full story told from the inside out gobehindthescenery.com.au


DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

Launceston TASMANIA Hobart

Contents

62 I WILD RIVERS

Tasmania

PHOTOGRAPHY TASMANIA PARKS AND WILDLIFE SERVICE

Take to Tassie’s pristine waterways

71 I CAPITAL GAINS The rise and rise of Hobart’s food scene

78 I APPLE ISLE ADVENTURES Eight active escapades

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Discovering a new world

62

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A trip with Roaring 40s Kayaking, the Davey River, surveying Bathurst Harbour, walking kayaks up the Davey River, Bushy Park on the River Derwent, rainforest at the Gordon River. OPPOSITE: The Franklin.


TASMANIA I RIVERS

Launceston TASMANIA Hobart

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CRERAR, WAI NANG POON, ROARING 40S KAYAKING, CREATIVE COMMONS \ EGUIDE TRAVEL, TOURISM TASMANIA \ FRANZISKA RUETZ

Rivers of dreams TASMANIA’S WILD WATERS, REFLECTIVE POOLS AND UNTAMED WILDERNESS CALL TO NATURE LOVERS WITH A SENSE OF ADVENTURE WORDS ANDREW BAIN

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Explore I TASMANIA

A

TOP TO BOTTOM: Rafting the Franklin River, the Franklin from above, ruins on Sarah Island.

river, and the campaign helped swing a national election, with the opposition Labor Party pledging to halt the dam, turning national sentiment in its favour. It was then that Tasmanians, and the outside world, realised the true value of the state’s wilderness and its wild rivers.

Running waters The Franklin is not the only wondrous waterway in Tasmania. Across the state, rivers and streams pour from the mountains. They create a host of travel experiences – from battling rapids, floating across your own reflection on a mirrorstill river, or hiking into gorges and waterfalls. At its end, the Franklin River pours into the Gordon River, where it’s possible to get a shorter and less frenetic glimpse at Tasmania’s wilderness with Gordon River Cruises. Its half-day trip sets out from the west-coast fishing town of Strahan, crossing Macquarie Harbour (with a visit to the former convict station on Sarah Island) to slip into the rainforested embrace of the Gordon River. A morning that breaks as calmly as meditation creates a perfect

PHOTOGRAPHY RACT DESTINATIONS, TOURISM TASMANIA \ FRANZISKA RUETZ

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storm is brewing, but it’s not coming from the sky. Ahead of the raft, the Franklin River is a mass of white water, fighting its way through a deep gorge known as the Great Ravine. It’s a place so wild that James Calder, the first European to sight the gorge in 1849, described it as a “hideous defile”. And the raft is about to plunge into it. For more than a week, this most famous of Tasmanian rivers will be everything to the people in the raft – their home, their road, their constant companion. At times, such as inside the deep and languid Irenabyss Gorge, it will be as still as a painting. But at other moments the river will rise into a fury. Inside the Great Ravine, rafters will scramble along the base of the cliff walls as guides toss the raft through the raging rapids. It’s just 5km of water and white noise, but it will take a day to navigate. There is ample reward. Rafting the Franklin River is one of the world’s great wild-river trips. Thick rainforest crowds its banks as it pours through World Heritagelisted wilderness, wrapping around rock towers and between stunning, remote mountains. Everyone but the most experienced rafters should come on a guided trip. Though at times it flows within 150km of Hobart, it’s a place almost beyond any mark of humanity. In its catchment there’s not a single piece of cultivated land – from a raft, you see nothing but nature. It’s liquid purity, even by the standards of a state abundant in pure places. This year marks 35 years since government plans to dam the river were defeated in one of Australia’s fiercest environmental battles. Protesters blockaded the


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or visit www.winepeople.com.au/3869001 Terms and conditions: Offer available while stocks last and only available to Australian residents. Three bottles of Heirloom Shiraz per household. Order acceptance and the contract between you and us will only be formed on the dispatch to you of the product(s) ordered. Orders not accepted (nor will wine be delivered to) persons under the age of 18 years. We do not deliver to the Northern Territory or parcel lockers. If a wine becomes unavailable, a similar wine of equal value may be supplied. One $100 gift card per household. Gift card not transferable for cash and cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers. $100 gift card saving is off normal retail prices of the reds case only as provided by the wineries. For full T&Cs and privacy policy go to winepeople.com.au/ terms or call us on 1300 762 832. (Licence No. 514 00724, LIQP770016550) 90 Chalk Hill Rd, McLaren Vale SA 5171.


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Its banks are lined with some of the most impressive Huon pines in Tasmania

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Paddling the Pieman River, photographing the foggy Savage River, the stairs to Lovers Falls.

Heading upriver Further north, marking the southern border of the Tarkine – the world’s second-largest tract of temperate rainforest – is the Pieman River. Its banks are lined with some of Tasmania’s most impressive Huon pines, their ancient limbs angling out over the tannin-stained waters. The Arcadia II – the world’s only operational Huon pine-built river cruiser – departs from former goldmining town Corinna. For almost five decades it has been transporting visitors along the Pieman to this section of coast, feared by 19thcentury sailors. Three ships were once wrecked here in a single year. A more intimate way to explore the Pieman is by kayak, available for hire from the wilderness retreat at Corinna, an accommodation centre with rooms spread through the old miners’ cottages. Paddling downstream, it’s a fairly quick journey to the mouth of the Savage River, where you

can drift over the sunken SS Croydon – Australia’s furthest inland shipwreck, with its nose still peeping out of the water. The ship sank in 1919 while winching aboard Huon pine logs. It is rumoured the captain might have deliberately wrecked it to defraud insurers and avoid again confronting the violent waters of Pieman Heads. A short distance from the Savage River mouth, a small pier provides a pull-out point for kayakers to visit Lovers Falls. A short walking

trail burrows beneath giant man ferns, some of which are thought to be among the oldest in the world, to the 30-metre waterfall, named when a couple came here during their honeymoon in the late 1870s.

Into Hell’s Gates The Pieman is one of several Tasmanian rivers that can be explored by kayak. On the Davey River, which empties into Port Davey in the far southwest, you can paddle into a gorge named Hell’s Gates by the loggers who once

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA \ MICHAEL WALTERS PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY, CREATIVE COMMONS \ CAZZ

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sheet of dark, reflective water as the cruise nears Heritage Landing, where a 400-metre boardwalk loops through rainforest. One fallen Huon pine beside the track is estimated to be more than 2000 years old.


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Fast facts TOURS: Gordon River Cruises offers its eponymous cruise from $125 for adults. gordonrivercruises.com.au A trip on the Arcadia II is priced from $90 per person. corinna.com.au

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worked here felling Huon pines. Davey Gorge is in one of Tasmania’s most remote areas, and the only feasible way to paddle here (and even then, at the whim of the ocean and weather conditions) is on a week-long sea-kayak expedition with Roaring 40s Kayaking. These guided trips begin with a flight into the remote Melaleuca airstrip, the site of an abandoned tin mine inside the vast Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. Kayakers paddle out through the tea-coloured waters of the Bathurst Narrows, past the well-named Breaksea Islands to Port Davey and the mouth of the Davey River. From here it’s a short paddle upstream into the gorge, where 100-metrehigh quartzite cliffs enclose the dark, still waters. Far easier to reach is the Derwent River, the waterway that flows through the heart of Hobart. North of the city, local company Tassie Bound offers short kayaking tours. A half-day “relax tour”, suitable for families, floats through gentle rapids, passing the hop fields of

Bushy Park and surprisingly bucolic scenes so close to Tasmania’s capital. The pace is a little more frenetic on a five-hour rapids kayak tour, which begins gently on the Derwent before building to a wild ride through the rapids at Broken Bridge and Train Bridge, downstream from Bushy Park.

Land lubbers Not all Tasmanian river experiences require actually getting out on the water. The mountains and valleys here are laced with bushwalking trails, some of which bring the state’s rivers into fine focus. Tasmania’s most famous walk, the Overland Track, is primarily a journey through mountains; but along one stretch at its southern end the peaks disappear behind the spray of a trio of magnificent waterfalls. Deep in rainforest beneath the craggy Du Cane Range, a short side trail detours down to the Mersey River. The large waterway empties into the Bass Strait at Devonport, but is near to its mountainous headwaters here. One branch of

this trail leads to a ledge looking directly onto powerful D’Alton Falls. Another branch heads a short distance upstream, beside a narrow, mossy slot canyon, to the equally impressive Ferguson Falls. Another excellent and littleknown river walk is to be found on Tasmania’s east coast, less than an hour’s drive from Wineglass Bay. At Bicheno’s edge, inside DouglasApsley National Park, an 8km walk loops through Apsley Gorge. The Apsley Gorge Track continues over a ridge and into the heart of the gorge. From here, you can rock-hop and scramble through the gorge, returning to Apsley Waterhole past small waterfalls, scoured mini-canyons and deep pools that beckon for cooling swims far from any crowds.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Hobart and Launceston from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ANDREW BAIN, TOURISM TASMANIA \ SARAJAYNE LADA

Kayak on the Derwent or Huon with Tassie Bound. tassiebound.com.au

Exploring Davey Gorge with Roaring 40s Kayaking. INSET: D’Alton Falls.


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HOBART GLORIOUS HOBART

HOBART

TASMANIA IS AN ISLE OF PLENTY AND IT’S ALL ON SHOW IN THE CAPITAL

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PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON, BURY ME STANDING, CHRIS CRERAR, MONA, SMUDGE EATS

WORDS LARISSA DUBECKI

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Start your engine Hobart’s no second-place getter in the coffee stakes. Fedi El Saouda can attest to the city’s recent resurgence in all things caffeinerelated: the Sydney transplant opened Mulberry Street Espresso on Macquarie Street last year and has witnessed the café resurgence first-hand. “It’s really taken off. Something like 30 cafés have opened in Hobart in the last six months. People in Hobart take their coffee really seriously, it’s up there with Sydney and Melbourne,” Fedi says. Mulberry Street serves

People in Hobart take their coffee really seriously, it’s up there with Sydney and Melbourne beans from Sydney’s Schibello Caffe (its stronger Black Label is used during the morning and the smoother Colombian reserve in the afternoon), along with a simple Euro-inspired snack menu. For Tassie-roasted beans, head to one of the city’s vanguard of roasteries, Villino, which opened in 2007 at the top of Criterion Street, and more recent hole-in-the-wall coffee stop, Ecru Coffee. Both serve a selection of specialty coffees boasting various brew methods and a large range of beans to buy for home. Or try North Hobart’s cute Room for a Pony, where excellent Tassie-roasted beans (from Hobart’s Zimmah Coffee) go blow for blow with a broad range of kombucha and a menu of black-rice pudding and brown-rice sushi bowls. Another blink-and-you’ll-miss-it coffee stop is Bury Me Standing, serving excellent coffee and bagels to the hordes at Salamanca Market on Saturdays and Farm Gate Market on Sundays (look for it at the top of Davey Street, opposite St David’s Park). Salamanca’s certainly a must-do for tourists, but Farm Gate is where you’ll see the denizens of Hobart doing their weekly shop, stocking up on everything from bread and free-range eggs to a rainbow of fruit and vegetables directly from the producers.

PHOTOGRAPHY DALE BALDWIN, DIER MAKR BURY ME STANDING, SMUDGE EATS, CHRIS CRERAR

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appening Hobart. Only a decade ago, it would have been an optimistic person indeed to apply such a sobriquet to Australia’s southernmost capital city. So why is a perfect storm now blowing over the island state? You can thank MONA, for starters, the risqué museum-slash-art gallery born in 2011 that stamped Hobart on the cultural map. But you can also thank the producers of the island state’s gloriously pristine food – its seafood, meat, cheese and much more – for helping inspire a new generation of restaurateurs and bar owners. Nor should we forget the Taswegians themselves, who were always aware of the greatness of their state and waited patiently for the slowpoke mainlanders to catch on. But catch on they have, to the extent that if you haven’t visited Hobart in the last few years, you haven’t visited it at all. With a winning mix of restaurants from fine dining to casual, bars and cafés, it’s now the hottest dining destination in the land.


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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Room For A Pony, lemon cakes and coffee from Bury Me Standing, the Bury Me Standing coffee window, Dier Makr, the Farm Gate Market, Templo, Villino coffee and barista (centre).

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Explore I HOBART

Tiny diner Templo is one of the hottest tickets in Hobart.

Top of the food chain It’s a sign of the Tas-leaning times that one of the nation’s most acclaimed restaurants is in the beating heart of Hobart – and the news hot off the presses is that Franklin’s high-beam torch hasn’t dimmed one bit in the hands of its new hotshot chef Analiese Gregory, who was lured from Sydney by the chance to work straight from the source with the island state’s incredible produce. “It’s one of those scenarios that really doesn’t get any better for a chef,” says Analiese. “It’s all about working with the really specific ingredients that you can’t get anywhere else.” Hit the Scandi-chic Argyle Street address for impeccably treated seafood (mussel-butter French toast with Bruny Island urchin) and gruntish pieces of meat (hello, Berkshire pork neck) from the Scotch oven.

It’s all about working with the really specific ingredients that you can’t get anywhere else Elsewhere in the food scene, Hobart is excelling in the kinds of places that eschew pigeonholes for a hard-to-define but easy-to-love vibe. We’re talking about places that blur the line between wine bar and restaurant such as Dier Makr, where the fizz of the pet-nat wine on the all-natural drinks list is backed by a menu of out-of-the-box brilliance, from just-seared mussels anointed with chicken fat, and whipped bottarga with ox tongue and bitter greens. Or a place like Ettie’s, just a short trot away on Elizabeth Street, where a beautifully considered

renovation has layered a patina of age on the two-level venue (complete with a subterranean piano bar) to induce reveries of that last trip to Paris. The menu of classics leaves the nuevo tricks to other players in the Hobart scene: the soft polenta and mushroom ragu and pan-roasted whole chicken are comfort personified. And if you need to see that Hobart marches to the beat of its own drum, try Templo, which has proven that a 20-seat neighbourhood restaurant can become the hottest ticket in town – largely thanks to the $65 chef’s menu that’s part Italian, part European and all Hobart.

Party hard MONA punctuates Hobart’s cultural year, with its Mofo festival of music and art in summer and Dark Mofo in the chilly depths of winter, but there are plenty of reasons to pack

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CRERAR

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Get outta town

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your party shoes and drinking boots at other times of the year. Case in point: MONA’s own Void Bar, an opportunity to sip inventive seasonal cocktails tucked three floors underground. You’ll need to pay for a MONA entry ticket – but we can heartily attest its merit, plus there’s live music on weekends. Back on ground level you can hit the MONA wine bar, where the Moorilla label (also owned by MONA’s David Walsh) is on high rotation, along with his MOO craft beer – best enjoyed in the sun on the lawn. The Asian-themed cocktails are a drawcard back in Hobart proper at Salamanca newcomer Suzie Luck’s, where fun

dining, not fine dining, is the name of the game (think Bangkok chicken wings with sriracha mayo, and a DIY slow-roasted lamb shoulder with flavours of pho to wrap in lettuce cups with rice noodles). For the quirkiest bar in town, head to Preachers, a heritage-listed cottage complete with a gas-heated artificial-turf courtyard graced with a bus for extra seating. This is where the cool kids gather for craft beers and bloody marys while listening to local DJs. For those of a more traditional bent, Willing Bros Wine Merchants in North Hobart will thrill the vinophiles with its vibrant mix of local and old-world wines.

For craft beer of rare greatness, head to Two Metre Tall in the Derwent Valley. Anointed by no less than René Redzepi for NOMA’s Sydney pop-up, the farmhouse brews are brought to life with local river water, grain and hops grown on the farm, along with an all-natural fermentation process. And what’s a 20-minute ferry ride between friends when it takes you from Hobart to Bruny Island, the outpost that sums up Tasmania’s pristine perfection? Make sure you swing by Bruny Island Cheese Company to purchase your own body weight in Nick Haddow’s acclaimed cheeses.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Hobart and extensive car hire options. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON, TOURISM TASMANIA AND ROB BURNETT, ANDREW WILSON, TWO METRE TALL

The other great thing about Hobart? It’s the gateway to all sorts of regional Tasmanian fabulousness (of the eating and drinking variety), much of it under an hour’s drive. Living proof: the Agrarian Kitchen, the justifiably renowned cooking school that recently opened its own eatery and store in New Norfolk, just 35 minutes by car from the centre of Hobart. Pull up a pew in this former mental asylum for hyper-local fare including pig’s head terrine with pangrattato, tarragon and salted cumquats, and whole-roasted flounder with sorrel, black olives and vinegar.

CLOCKWISE: The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery & Store, Bruny Island Cheese, Suzie Lucks, Two Metre Tall brewery.


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Into the wild

AN UNTAMED WILDERNESS IN A NEAT PACKAGE, TASMANIA OFFERS A WEALTH OF ADVENTURE EXPERIENCES, MOST WITHIN EASY REACH OF THE ISLAND’S TWO MAIN AIRPORTS

2. LOSE YOURSELF Get lost in the crevices and folds of ancient waterways in the World Heritage-listed Cradle Mountain National Park. Abseil, leap and dive deeper into quartzite gorges with the experienced team from Cradle Mountain Canyon Tours, exploring the upper reaches of the Dove Canyon or scaling the waterfalls of Machinery Creek. cradlemountaincanyons.com.au

1. WALK ON

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The Three Capes Lodge Walk has cemented its place in the national hiking hierarchy with the announcement in January that it had become one of the Signature Collection of Great Walks of Australia. The 46km trail, led by the Tasmanian Walking Company and open to only 48 walkers a day, traverses native scrub and hugs sea cliffs soaring high over the wild Tasman Sea. threecapestrack.com.au

3. DIP A PADDLE

Say hello to the locals

With stretches of deserted coast and pristine rivers, Tasmania makes for a mean paddle. Esperance Adventures offers day trips into the wild far south, navigating the reaches of the Huon and Lune Rivers, or Recherche and Port Esperance Bay. Or take to the seas off Tasmania’s rugged south-west coast with the week-long odyssey from Roaring 40’s, which will transport you far from modern civilisation into World Heritage-listed wilds. esperanceadventures.com

4. DEEP DIVE Cold, clean oceans and an abundance of sea life await divers off the coastlines of Tasmania. The PADI-certified Eaglehawk Dive Centre explores seal colonies and the famous sea caves of Cathedral Cove. Bicheno Dive Centre takes in coral bommies and reefs covered in colourful sponges and teeming with schools of fish. Summer waters are more forgiving temperature-wise, but winter offers better visibility. eaglehawkdive.com.au


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PHOTOGRAPHY TASMANIA PARKS AND WILDLIFE SERVICE, TOURISM TASMANIA / ROB BURNETT, SHARON DE VILLIERS, GARY LISBON, FLOW MOUNTAIN BIKE, SEAN SCOTT, WAI NANG POON

SURF’S UP

Waiting for waves

It might not have the sun-bleached ambience of Endless Summer surf pilgrimages, but Tasmania’s cold-water waves are one of the great secrets of the Australian surf scene. The winter swells deliver the biggest waves at pristine breaks such as St Helens in the east or walk-in South Cape Bay – Australia’s southernmost beach. But only the bravest need apply for Tassie’s biggest wave – the fearsome Shipstern Bluff.

6.

7.

ON YER BIKE

TEE OFF

Tasmania’s mountain biking trails have earned a national reputation, winding through primeval forest and dramatic mountain ranges. The well-maintained trails around the former mining town of Derby are a major mountain-biking hub, but if the thought of sharing the trails with no one save wombats and kangaroos appeals, the undeveloped Maria Island is a perfect spot for off-road biking – just grab your bike and catch the ferry.

For a civilised day of sporting action, give Tasmania’s world-class golfing greens a test run. From two of the world’s Top 100 Golf Courses (Barnbougle Dunes and Barnbougle Lost Farm) to Australia’s oldest course (Ratho Farm in the highlands), Tasmania is home to more courses per capita than any other state in Australia. Improve your swing while soaking up rugged scenery or sea views.

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8. CRITTER CRUISES Encounter Tasmania’s furry and feathered marine inhabitants on their own turf aboard the Pennicott Wilderness Journeys’ fleet. Explore sea caves and unpeopled coastlines off Bruny Island, keeping an eye out for dolphins, seals and migratory whales. Or sail beneath the Southern Hemisphere’s highest vertical sea cliffs off Tasman Island, inhabited by noisy populations of albatross, gannets, eagles and cormorants. pennicottjourneys.com.au


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Hand-made homewares

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Tea light holders from Seminyak boutique SOUQ, homewares at Kim Soo Home, women’s fashion at Bamboo Blonde, inside Kim Soo Home, Lulu Yasmine, Mercredi, Kim Soo Home, Buddhas for sale at Seminyak Square. CENTRE: SOUQ café.

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GOOD BUY, BALI WITH EXUBERANT DESIGN EMBEDDED INTO ITS GENES, BALI’S SENSE OF STYLE INSPIRES A FLOCK OF INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS WHO CALL THE TROPICAL ISLAND HOME WORDS BELINDA JACKSON


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Fashion favourites

INDONESIA

Bali

Handmade clothing, bohemian accessories, shell-encrusted homewares, fair trade prints and weaves: there’s no place for cookie-cutter international labels in Bali. With a whole island of shopping to explore, grab your map and a driver, and hit the road.

PHOTOGRAPHY RUBBEN PANGGABEAN, HOME STORE MAGAZINE, SALLY MAY MILLS

SEMINYAK The lifeline of Seminyak, Jalan Oberoi (also known as Jl Laksmana and Jl Kayu Ayu) is the island’s fashion hub. It’s packed cheek-to-cheek with boutiques, so go on foot. Key buys are locally designed and handmade dresses: Uma and Leopold yields lace trim playsuits and evening wear, with must-buy bags and sandals to match, while neighbour Bamboo Blonde has developed a following for its funky streetwear. Pop into Lulu Yasmine for floaty pastel pieces that will travel home well, and look for Mist’s Island Rose collection of soft, handprinted kaftans from Australian designer Penny Pinkster. Start saving now so you can splurge on a shell chandelier, or traditional ikat (an Indonesian decorative technique) cushion, in the marvellously monochromatic world of Kim Soo Home. Grab a coffee in its chichi café before moving on to SOUQ for scatter cushions, dyed indigo throws and cold-pressed juices. Textile fans (think printed table runners and cushions in muted tones), should head to nearby Mercredi, while Style & Mood offers super stylish kilim cushions plus more quirky finds such as rattan laptop bags. For a break from the heat, pop into

Designer and former supermodel Gail Elliott (below) is co-founder of the Bali-based fashion label Little Joe Woman, which has a boutique of the same name in Seminyak. Gail shares some of her favourite local stores. “The Ku De Ta boutique [in Seminyak] is a treasure trove filled with clothing by Zee Polidori for Zee Zee for Ku De Ta,” she says. “They have a great selection of swimwear from New York, friendship bracelets from Paris and lingerie from Los Angeles. Shopping at the boutique always involves a cocktail or two at the worldrenowned Ku De Ta beach club.” Another must-visit is the Ten Pieces store beside Da Maria restaurant, which carries one of Gail’s favourite swimwear brands, Miskini from Byron Bay. “They’re cut to perfection using the best, most comfortable Italian fabrics.” littlejoewoman.com

the newish Seminyak Village to suck in the air-con and hit a few Bali brands in one blow: fashion finds include lively Lily Jean and yogi-inspired Buddha Wear. Credit card on a diet? Check the markets around the corner in Seminyak Square or the bargain-hard flea market at the end of Jl Oberoi, near Ku De Ta.

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from Canggu up to Batu Balong: you’ll need a car to navigate the web of streets. The action happens mainly on Jl Pantai Berawa, Jl Batu Bolong and Jl Batu Belig and the vibe here is expat rather than tourist. Longtimer Bungalow Living Bali has staked its claim on Pantai Berawa for tropical chic homewares, and owner and Bali resident Giovanna Aryafara also sells her own travel photography instore. Nearby, hit Casamayor for homewares with a vintage twist and grab that woven lampshade or contemporary batik wall hanging. Lovers of uber chunky beaded jewellery should zip into Erika Peña, which also does a great line in sleek and easy resort wear and ruffled ikat fabric dresses, inspired by the Indonesian island of Flores. Find it opposite Samadi, the place for raw food and yoga. Forgot your surfboard? Deus Ex Machina’s Temple of Enthusiasm will oblige, so you can ride the waves at Batu Bolong Beach, at the end of the street. This area is changing by the minute: you’ll spy many of the island’s southern fashion brands opening new shopfronts up this way including Sancerre, Lulu Yasmine and Frockk, with more joining them every day.

strongest in Ubud and its surrounding villages in Gianyar regency (state); it’s here you’ll find the best weavers, silversmiths and painters. Drop into passionate Threads of Life for fair trade, heirloom weaves from across the Indonesian archipelago, made with love, local materials and natural dyes. Coffee lovers can take a country-wide tour in a cup at Seniman Coffee Studio, which presses, plunges and perks coffee beans from Sulawesi, Java, Papua and Bali’s own Kintamani, also available in take-home packs. South of Ubud, the villages of Mas and Celuk are laden with silver workshops where you can watch artisans at work (and of course, buy their wares). Add the village of Mambal into the loop, where celebrated jeweller John Hardy’s dramatic bamboo showroom is set amid fields and farms. The rustic setting hasn’t deterred the international glitterati’s love of its gold, silver and precious gemstone creations. On the way back to Ubud call in to Gaya Ceramics to admire its curvaceous, locally thrown bowls, cups, plates and pots. For art aficionados, the Sukawati Art Market and

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The Sand Collection from Gaya Ceramics, caps from Deux Ex Machina, Erika Peña, jewellery from John Hardy, inside Deux Ex Machina, Suri Girl by the River by Giovanna Aryafara from Bungalow Living Bali, Seniman Coffee Studio.

John Hardy collection

PHOTOGRAPHY HARRY MARK PHOTO, GIOVANNA ARYAFARA, SALLY MAY MILLS

CANGGU UBUD & & UP GIANYAR Just north of Seminyak, there’s REGENCY secretive shopping to be had Bali’s creative heart beats


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CLOCKWISE: Ayana Resort’s shopping precinct, ceramics from Jenggala, Kawa chair from K2 Rope Furniture, Ayana’s L’Atelier Parfums et Creations, ToKo Concept Store interior, ToKo detail, essential oils from Utama Spice.

Ubud’s main market will fill your bags with Bali’s traditional decorative masks. But for a step up in the art stakes, the museum and shop of Bali’s late, great contemporary artist Nyoman Gunarsa is in the old kingdom, Semarapura (also called Klungkung), about 20km east of Ubud.

BUKIT PENINSULA South of the airport, the

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teardrop-shaped peninsula is better known for surfing and pool time than shopping, though Nusa Dua and Jimbaran Bay boast limited retail hubs. The freshest player is the revamped shopping precinct in Ayana Resort & Spa at Jimbaran Bay, which has 12 shops including perfumery L’Atelier Parfums et Creations. It sources 80 per cent of its ingredients – including vetiver, patchouli and spices – from Indonesia, and runs workshops. Bali Collection in Nusa Dua has long been the go-to in the south, and there are a few gems among the massage shops: Australian designer Natasha Gan brings her kidswear, activewear and swimwear to the ‘hood, while French designer Jacque Ruc’s Animale turns up street-smart casual men’s gear, and both are produced locally. For wearable beach glass set in sterling silver cuffs, chokers, chains and rings – all created at

Bingin Beach – pull into Roam + Rumah Jewellery on your way to the surf.

SANUR Sleepy Sanur rests to the east of Denpasar, providing a good base for forays into Bali’s capital or up to Ubud and the emerging playground of East Bali. Snap up chemical-free, skin-loving aromatherapy products, incense and oils employing traditional Balinese remedies at ethical Utama Spice. You’ll also uncover an outpost of Bali’s beloved brand Uluwatu, renowned for its locally made, high-end lace linens and frocks, as well as Bali-made art-meets-fashion label Biasa. Its founder, Italian Susanna Perini, employs local artisans to dye, stitch and weave her weightless wearable art, including silk kaftans and modern linen, bamboo and cotton pieces for men. You’ll also find longtimer Jenggala Ceramics Bali in Sanur (the mothership and café are in Jimbaran, with a discount outlet in crazy Denpasar). From Sanur, dip a toe into Denpasar at Pasar Kumbasari, a multistorey market where half of Kuta and Seminyak sources its statues and trinkets. Past the ground floor wet market, upper floors include one for temple offerings, with pretty woven baskets and umbrellas. Go for the experience, rather than hard shopping.

Designer picks “My go-to store in Seminyak is Kim Soo Home,” says Sydney-based interior design director Alex Zabotto-Bentley (above). “Their aesthetic is sublime. From antique vessels from Borneo to local woven rope and reeds. I particularly love their shell and conch pieces; hundreds of shells threaded onto fine, white rope to create gigantic wall necklaces.” He also wanders down Kerobokan’s prison road (Jl Tangkuban Perahu) for its brass stores. “My fave is Jolyc: they custom-make anything from candelabras to reimagining 1890s pieces.” For custom furniture, the top stop is K2 Rope Furniture in Seminyak. “Inspired, unique and completely playful, I am creating some custom pieces for a client and the pieces for this project will be a knock-out,” says Alex of the work led by Italian designer Walter Sartore, and manufactured in Java.


Cristiano Ronaldo Š2018 Samsonite IP Holdings S.à r.l. All Rights Reserved. Printed on 01/2018.


Explore I BALI SHOPPING GUIDE

Alila’s personalised shopping tour

Heading out on Alila Seminyak’s shopping tour, one of the hotel’s Kombi vans (inset). BELOW: The gallery at Threads of Life, and founder Jean Howe.

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Top tips

SHOPPING WELLNESS “Sadly, a lot of the stores here are still selling goods made in China and India, but ethical shopping supports Indonesian artisans,” says Jean Howe, co-founder of Ubud’s Threads of Life. Her top eco-shopping tips include Saraswati Papers in Ubud, where stationery fans and brides-to-be can shop for handmade paper, invitations and handprinted cards adorned with petals, all made by local women from recycled paper gathered from hotels and schools. A portion of the sale of many products is donated back to local charities. Mitra Bali on Ubud’s Monkey Forest Road is a go-to for fair trade homewares and great baskets while in Sanur, ToKo Concept Store showcases the products and designs of more than 60 local solo designers and small to medium companies.

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Grab the gang and book Alila’s personalised shopping tour, which whisks you around in a vintage 1980 Kombi, with Wi-Fi and mini-bar. Need to know: Jalan means “street” in Indonesian, usually shortened to “Jl”. Beware: Balinese street names change every few kilometres. Many fashion labels have multiple stores in all the major retail areas. Penny pinchers note that most have at least one clearance store with heavily discounted last-season stock and samples. Some wooden products, such as masks, puppets and bowls, get the okay from Australian customs, but follow the first rule of international shopping: declare, declare, declare.


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Explore I WHALE WATCHING

THAR SHE BLOWS

Spotting a whale, whether from sea or shore, is a moment of beauty and contemplation WORDS MAX BREARLEY

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM & EVENTS QUEENSLAND

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Venture to Queensland, where humpback and minke whales patrol the coastline.


Explore I WHALE WATCHING

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PHOTOGRAPHY WAYNE OSBORN, TAMMY CHAPMAN, DAVID ASHLEY, ALAMY

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s the bow of our boat pitches up and down, we take a tight hold on the rail. Those not wanting to clamber around to the pointy end huddle on deck, scanning the Southern Ocean for their first whale sighting. We’re in Flinders Bay, close to Cape Leeuwin in the Margaret River region of WA, the cape’s lighthouse a marker of where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet. It’s also a prime spot for spotting humpback, blue and southern right whales. Here, wine is the draw for most; the coastal influence is one of the defining factors of its world-class reputation. But take a walk along the rugged coastal paths, stand on the shore or take a boat from Augusta or Geographe Bay and there’s an experience that could top any wine discovery. When the first sighting comes, there are gasps, yelps and awed silence. Our skipper shouts excitedly to look to the south west, pointing into the ocean beyond as a humpback slaps its fluke (tail) on the water. It seems that even the experts still feel the thrill of the morning’s first sighting. There’s the mechanical click and whirr of cameras and fumbling with smartphones; most are too slow to capture this first brief glimpse. For once, I don’t pull out my phone. I just take in the moment as we draw closer. It’s a thrill each and every time there’s a fluke slap or breach; a moment to be recorded with your own eyes, not from behind the lens of a camera. Marine biologist Micheline Jenner (author of The Secret Life of Whales) has made a career out of understanding the diverse life of the ocean’s most majestic creatures, from the coast of Western Australia to Hawaii. The soundtrack of her

A relic of the whaling industry


Explore I WHALE WATCHING

HUMPBACK FACTS CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Get up close and personal with whales in WA, marine biologist Micheline Jenner armed with a zoom lens to capture encounters on the Great Barrier Reef, Albany’s historic whaling station, a whale breaches.

12-15 METRES the average length of these marine mammals

45-50 YEAR LIFE SPAN

the average for this giant species

30,000 kg MASS (ADULT)

the average weight of adult male humpbacks

1,360 KG the amount humpbacks can consume in a day

life is the ethereal whale song. Micheline encourages people to experience first-hand what many have only seen on the screen. She says responsible whalewatching companies facilitate these experiences up and down the migration routes and are contributing to the conservation effort. “Awareness of environmental issues affecting whales and the ocean can be effectively portrayed by naturalist staff on vessels,” she says. “Some operators collect scientific data as well, passing it onto local scientists. [And] caring for whales effectively protects the entire ecosystem where they are present.” Around Australia’s vast coastline there are varying seasons to spot whales on their southern and northern migrations, as well as times when they are mating, calving and socialising. Duncan Sinclair, owner and skipper at Wineglass Bay Cruises in Tasmania’s Freycinet National Park, says there are opportunities to spot marine mammals in the wild throughout the year. “We have dolphins all year round and the whale migration through the winter and through spring,” he notes. “We probably see 500 to 600 humpbacks and 100 to 200 southern rights a year.” May to July and September to December is prime time in Tasmanian waters.

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Explore I WHALE WATCHING

Whale watching on Queensland’s Fraser Coast. BELOW: Wineglass Bay Cruises.

Dark past, bright future Hervey Bay in Queensland celebrates its annual Ocean Festival each August, on the “humpback highway” that is the Fraser Coast. In New South Wales, from May to late November, head to Jervis Bay and popular Byron Bay for sightings, or take a tour from Sydney’s Circular Quay beyond the harbour. In Victoria, Warrnambool is the place to be from May to September, while in South Australia, Victor Harbor and Ceduna are among the best places for sightings from June to September. In Western Australia, boat tours run from Augusta (at the state’s south westerly tip, under four hours from Perth) in early June, with activity moving southward to Geographe Bay (near Dunsborough) from September. The far northwest of WA around Broome and further south in Exmouth are also key sites; here whales socialise and birth their calves. Southern right whales mate and calve in the now-safe bays near Albany in the state’s Great

Join the whale watching club

Southern region. Get to know the darker side of the story at Albany’s Historic Whaling Station. It was Australia’s last shore-based whaling station and closed in 1978 after 178 years in business. The social and economic story is tightly woven with that of the people who settled in the region, and visitors can view a restored whaling ship and processing plant. While whale populations still face threats, Micheline points to

healthier numbers since the end of commercial whaling. “With the increase of the humpback whale population from around 200 to 300 in 1963, to around 40,000, 50 years later there have been a few changes,” she says. These increased numbers are aiding research into behaviour. “It seems humpbacks are most likely returning to many coastal regions, now appearing to migrate past or through many coastal bays

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA / KATHRYN LEAHY, TOURISM & EVENTS QUEENSLAND

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Spectacular stretches of coastline, fantastic beaches and ocean views, visiting whales, and unique volcanoes, this is truly

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Explore I WHALE WATCHING

Need to know Spy humpbacks and southern right whales at the following hotspots between May and November:

Up close and personal with a humpback in NSW. INSET: Two whales trace the Sydney coastline.

QUEENSLAND Hervey Bay, the Gold Coast and the Great Barrier Reef.

along the WA coast, particularly on their southern migration. With a 10 to 12 per cent increase annually, there are more whales doing different things. Not all of the population appears to be migrating all the way to the Kimberley to socialise, and more calves are being born in the Exmouth region,” Micheline says. There is some certainty that each season sightings will be plentiful (and many charter boats guarantee sightings) but the start and end of the seasons should be a guide. “Humpback whales and pygmy blue whales seen in WA waters do basically stick to the same routes year after year,” Micheline says. “But of course the elegant patterns of nature that we are trying to figure out have more influences and layers than we might expect. “The peak of the northern or southern humpback migrations, for example, can vary by as much as two weeks each year and, as the population returns to pre-whaling levels, animals are venturing into many of the bays — especially on

Getting out on the ocean provides a unique experience and one that can have a lasting effect on people. their southern migration.” Getting out on the ocean provides a unique experience and one that can have a lasting effect on people. “When humpbacks approach boats closely, this can be a moment where people examine their lifestyle and how it impacts on the ocean,” Micheline says. But spotting them from shore is also possible. We all know the whalers call of “thar she blows!”, and it’s a useful saying to remember when seeking them out. Whales are air-breathing mammals so the exhalation, or blow – akin to a column of smoke – is something to keep your eyes peeled for. When whales are active they perform

VICTORIA Logans Beach and Lady Bay in Warrnambool, plus Cape Nelson.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA Flinders Bay in Augusta and Geographe Bay in Dunsborough.

TASMANIA The east coast, including the Freycinet Peninsula, Maria Island and Bruny Island.

NEW SOUTH WALES Jervis Bay and Byron Bay, plus Sydney. Learn more about whales and Micheline Jenner’s work at WA’s Centre for Whale Research. cwr.org.au

spectacular aerial displays, says Micheline, including full-body breaches, fluke slaps, head slaps and pectoral fin slaps. So look for the splash as well as the blow. It’s also said that humpbacks can become more active during windy and rough sea conditions, which for all but the most dedicated is the time to be safely onshore.

PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW

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Explore I ASIA CRAFT BEER

GETTING CRAFTY FROM SINGAPOREAN SOURS TO THAI STOUTS, ASIA IS GETTING A TASTE FOR SMALL-BATCH BEER

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PHOTOGRAPHY YOUNG MASTER ALES

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As the Bintang singlets and Tiger Beer stubby holders in so many Australian cupboards attest, Asia has long been associated with certain styles of easy-drinking brews best enjoyed in the tropical sun. Now the craft beer scene has seeped across the continent, typified by a spirit of experimentation and innovation. And, as six writers discover, the results are speaking for themselves.


Explore I ASIA CRAFT BEER

SINGAPORE

FROM BEER TO ETERNITY From craft beer festivals to tap takeovers and specialist bars, the craft beer scene in Singapore is hopping along nicely

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IF IT’S A WEEKDAY, then somewhere in the dozens of Singaporean craft beer bars, there’s definitely a tap takeover. A takeover happens when a brewery takes over a bar’s taps with its offerings – often with a brewer present to answer geeky questions. The tactic has helped local brewers engage with fans and introduce their beers. Takeovers have given beer lovers a taste of Innocence Brewing’s easy-drinking IPA (India Pale Ale), wheat and session ales – often made with local ingredients such as galangal – and the small-batch beers from the three brothers behind Rye & Pints. Perhaps the biggest flag-bearer of the local scene is Singaporeanowned Brewlander & Co, which contract brews in Cambodia, and also exports to Hong Kong, Thailand and Malaysia. The seasoned Singapore scene is also attractive for foreign brewers clamouring to establish their brands here. The lauded Young Master, one of Hong Kong’s first craft breweries, recently led a muchhyped takeover. Over four days

the crew went from Druggists in Tyrwhitt Road to Freehouse in Boon Tat Street and Smith Street Taps in Chinatown to the popular Mikkeller Bar. Young Master’s sales and marketing manager Sylvester Fedor says the strategy was a success. “It got people familiar with our beers, especially as this is the first time we’re importing in such volume. They were introduced to our classic pale ale and the barrel-aged Hak Mo Sheung series.” The brand plans more takeovers, including with food pairings, every few months. Such talk would not have happened in Singapore 10 years ago, when craft beer was nonexistent (punters were more familiar with big brands, such as Singapore’s own Tiger Beer). Winston Kwang of Beerstyle Distribution was the pioneer who introduced Flying Dog, a craft brew from Denver, Colorado. Back then, people greeted IPA with the disdain

Craft beer bar Freehouse. ABOVE: Young Master’s tap takeover at Druggists. LEFT: Druggists’ taps.

tourists hold for Singapore’s pungent durian fruit. “I had good products but I struggled for four to five years until people came around,” Winston says. His imports, Deschutes and Stone Brewing Co, are now established in almost every bar. Singapore’s craft-beer scene is now solid, with year-round festivals to keep beer fans satiated. So what is there to look forward to?

Daniel Goh, owner of Smith Street Taps, thinks the trend is leaning towards more taps than cans: “We’ll see a strong trend of interesting craft beers of different styles from around the world being served in Singapore on draught. While IPAs will continue in popularity, more exotic styles such as barrel-aged beers and sour beers will be on the lips of beer drinkers here,” he predicts.

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTIAN YOUNG @ROOTLESSIMAGES, YOUNG MASTER ALE, DRUGGISTS

WORDS DAVID FUHRMANN-LIM


Explore I ASIA CRAFT BEER

Tastes like Taiwan

TAIWAN

UNTAPPED PARADISE A microbrewery movement is making its mark in the back streets and beyond

PHOTOGRAPHY REDPOINT, 23 BREWING

WORDS CARLA GROSSETTI

BEER HAS BEEN POPULAR on the island nation of Taiwan for decades. But the government’s deregulation of the liquor laws and legalisation of independent microbreweries in 2002 led to craft beer appearing everywhere – from food festivals to supermarket shelves. While the state-owned brand Taiwan Beer still holds the market monopoly, the global trend towards producing smallbatch, independently made craft beer has really taken off in recent years.

Enter Spencer Jemelka and Doug Pierce, two US expats and passionate homebrewers who took their passion to the next level when they left their IT jobs to open Redpoint Brewing Co. in 2013. The brewery – located in the industrial area of Taoyuan, about a 45-minute drive from Taipei – was one of the first to open in the country. It’s also credited with helping to kickstart the nation’s craft beer renaissance. Spencer, who is Redpoint’s head brewer, says demand for craft beer in Taiwan has spiked in the past few years, as more locals get behind the country’s fledgling industry, which is now a global craze. “It’s so exciting to be at the forefront of this new industry. We brewed Taiwan’s very first IPA four years ago – called the Long Dong Lager – and it’s amazing how well it’s done,” Spencer says. Those wanting to get a

23 Brewing. BELOW: Spencer Jemelka (left) and Doug Pierce (centre) with a Redpoint Brewing Co. team member.

glimpse into the future of craft beer in the region should do a craft beer crawl that takes in Jim & Dad’s Brewing Company in Yilan County, 55th Street Craft Brewery in Taipei’s Xinzhuang District and 23 Brewing Company in New

Taipei City. 55th Street’s Jack Yu describes the future of brewing in Taiwan as bright. “We are really busy, and year-on-year we are taking market share away from the commercial brewers,” he says.

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Explore I ASIA CRAFT BEER

VIETNAM

THE SECOND COMING There’s a local mood of fresh, experimental brewing WORDS PETER BARRETT

CLOCKWISE: Pasteur Street’s Cyclo Stout, a Platinum brew, Pasteur Street brewers hard at work, Pasteur Street in Saigon.

Leading the pack

Mischa Smith explains craft breweries have recently opened in Hanoi, such as Furbrew (with two tap rooms) and there are others in Hoi An. The market, he says, is still expanding. “As the competition gets more intense I think you’re going to see people who are dedicated and doing it right continuing to have success. Maybe some of the smaller guys who don’t have the necessary resources may get swallowed up by the whole thing.” Pasteur Street, which

served its first drop in 2015 and has gone on to win numerous awards in the US, Japan and Australia, recently opened new tasting rooms in Saigon’s District 1 and 2 and now distributes beer in Hanoi. There’s no doubt, says Mischa, that Vietnamese people love beer. “The introduction of craft [beer] has excited not just the young but a lot of Vietnamese customers who hear that we’re using fresh, local ingredients … it’s exciting to have these local success stories.”

PHOTOGRAPHY PLATINUM, PASTEUR STREET

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VIETNAM IS IN THE midst of its second craft beer wave. No surprise, really, given the country is the largest consumer of amber nectar in South East Asia. Bia hoi or “fresh beer” has been a mainstay for years in Hanoi (you can still buy a litre for 16,000 Dong, or less than AU$1) and locals seem to have an insatiable thirst for the stuff. The influence of Belgianstyle brewing and stalwart brands such as Heineken, Tiger and Bia Saigon have been challenged recently by the craft-beer movement, led by a handful of pioneering US, Australian and European expats. Ho Chi Minh City (still also known by its former name Saigon) remains the epicentre of the movement with labels such as Te Te, Fuzzy Logic, Phat Rooster and Platinum still thriving. Saigon-based Pasteur Street is among the most successful. Brand ambassador


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Explore I ASIA CRAFT BEER

THE PHILIPPINES

CULTURE WRIT LARGE Creative, beer-loving Filipinos are blending the best ingredients that the 7641 islands have to offer WORDS MARISSE GABRIELLE REYES

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Nipa Brew, Joe’s Brew, Katipunan brewery, the women behind Palaweño Brewery.

many craft brewers are creating unique seasonal beers that ebb and flow with the land’s fruitbearing trees. Palaweño offers Hunter Honey Nut Brown made with Palawan’s famous wild honey; Desert Fathers Brewing Co makes a splendid pale ale infused with ripe mango, pineapple and watermelon; and Nipa Brew has created Midnight Blur, which possesses deep, dark notes of coffee and cacao. “Craft beers are still something of a novelty to the average drinker in the Philippines,” says Kiyo Miura of Katipunan Craft Ales. “There’s still a long way to go. We’d like to see our craft beers on more bar lists and eventually, served alongside the world’s best wines.”

Hard at work

PHOTOGRAPHY JOE’S BREW, AL LINSANGAN, NIPA BREW, KATIPUNAN

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ENTER THE SCENE of almost any party, fiesta, or even funeral in the Philippines and you’re almost guaranteed to be offered an ice-cold beer. It’s a drink that’s been a part of the highly social, party-loving culture for decades. In fact, South East Asia’s first brewery was set up in Manila in 1890 by Spaniard Don Enrique Maria Barretto de Ycaza y Esteban, who brewed the country’s first bottle of San Miguel. With such a fine tasting beer up for grabs, perhaps it’s no surprise the fizzy beverage has become the most consumed tipple in the country. The recent changing social landscape, with a fast-growing middle class, has not only had its impact on Filipino culture, but on the beer scene too. Western bar culture, with its current preference for all things artisanal, has proliferated across the capital and the islands. In recent years microbreweries have been sprouting up all over the country – such as Manila’s Katipunan Craft Ales, Joe’s Brew and Nipa Brew; Cavite’s Desert Fathers Brewing Co; Palawan’s Palaweño Brewery [the country’s first female-run craft brewery]; and Benguet’s Baguio Craft Brewery. “We were tired of the same beer our grandfathers have been drinking for decades,” says Chris Paraz of Manila’s Nipa Brew. “We started brewing because we thought it was time to break away from tradition and start our own.” Although handmade European style-beers such as pale ale, wheat beer and IPA are now commonly bottled,


Explore I ASIA CRAFT BEER

BOOM TIMES The kingdom’s burgeoning craft brewery scene is whetting Cambodians’ appetite for beer CLOCKWISE: Bangkok’s Hair Of The Dog, Cerevisia Craft Brewhouse, Cerevisia’s brewers, Chit Bar.

THAILAND

BARELY LEGAL BREWS The craft beer movement bubbles away beneath the surface WORDS ELOISE BASUKI

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DESPITE A STRANGLEHOLD on the industry by big beer names Singha and Chang, plus restrictive anti-homebrew laws, the craft beer movement is alive and well in Thailand, thanks to persevering locals unafraid to put up a fight. Craft beer from the US was introduced to the country in 2012, and both Thais and expats have since driven a growing demand for the hoppy styles popular in the US and Europe. But Thailand’s prohibitive brewing regulations require at least 100,000 litres to be brewed per year for on-site sales, or 10 million litres per year for distribution – impossible hoops to jump through for local small-batch brewers. Thai brewers are

forced to brew overseas and import their beer back into Thailand, adding a hefty tax to the bottle price (a 330ml craft beer sells for about 180 baht [AU$7], compared to 40 baht [$1.50] for a Singha). Chiang Mai Brewery, famous for its award-winning Red Truck IPA and local-wheat Chiang Mai Weizen, makes its beers across the border in Laos, while Phuket-based brewery Full Moon brews its malty Chalawan Pale Ale in Australia. But one Thai brewer makes his beer just outside of Bangkok, fearlessly fighting against the monopoly. Wichit (Chit) Saiklao’s microbrewery, Chit Beer, is not only a scenic spot on Koh Kret island to stop for a pint of his ever-popular lemongrass kolsch, but Chit also runs brewing workshops despite continual fines and the risk of imprisonment. The battle for locally-made Thai beer has required brewers to stick together – Chit’s next project, Mitr Sam Phan Brewery, a cooperative-style brewpub with four other local breweries and a Thai hops farm, will become the country’s biggest legally operating craft brewery when it opens later this year. But for now, there are plenty of craft-focused beer houses where you can support the fight. Hair of the Dog in Bangkok has a rotating tap wall – try Changwon Express’s Asoke Pale Ale or its Chao Praya Stout alongside a comforting Korean-Mexican menu. Or visit Crafts & Co in Phuket’s Old Town, which boasts more than 80 beers behind the bar.

WORDS MARISSA CARRUTHERS

CAMBODIANS HAVE LONG eagerly swigged the bestselling Angkor, Cambodia and Anchor beers, but craft brews are a relatively new addition to the market. In four years, specialist breweries have swelled from just two outlets into double digits, all of them creating Khmer-inspired concoctions. “The market is definitely growing,” says Erich Phillips, founding partner of Cerevisia Craft Brewhouse. “It was previously mainly expats, as they are familiar with craft beers, but the market is changing to locals quickly.” With local beers selling for an average of 60 cents to AU$1.20, trying to convince Cambodians to stump up more than $4.50 for a glass has been a challenge, Erich says. However, the local appetite has been whetted by innovative creations that incorporate a range of local ingredients, including locally produced honey, coconut and palm sugar. And hopes are high that the market is on the brink of booming. “As a community, breweries are trying to elevate the market by introducing high-quality products, made in the country

that people can be proud of,” Erich says. He adds that festivals and events, such as the annual Taste of Phnom Penh festival, are helping to promote the burgeoning industry. The main hotspots to sample the kingdom’s craft brews are centred in its capital. These include Botanico’s leafy beer garden – the mecca for Cerevisia’s creations – which serves up a rotation of its 15 recipes. Himawari Microbrewery is another champion of the movement, with its daily 5pm to 7pm happy hour offering 30 per cent off beers. Munich Microbrewery focuses on more Khmer-style beer – light, sweet and low on alcohol. The latest entry to the scene, Hops Brewery and Craft Beer Garden, serves up a selection of German-style brews.

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PHOTOGRAPHY HAIR OF THE DOG, CHIT BAR, CEREVISIA CRAFT BREWHOUSE

CAMBODIA


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Explore I MT RUAPEHU

NORTHERN 106


Explore I MT RUAPEHU

AUCKLAND

EXPOSURE

Mt Ruapehu

Skiing in NZ’s volcanic northern resorts is set to erupt as powder hounds explore new slopes WORDS HUW KINGSTON

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PHOTOGRAPHY MT RUAPEHU

The high life


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from Auckland Airport all manner of storm and rain warnings were in place – sheep were surely blowing across the road in front of us. One guarantee about any holiday in New Zealand, however, is that whatever the season or weather, there are always plenty of options. The bad weather made our first day in Taupō perfect for exploring the geothermal wonderland of Orakei Korako. We marvelled at the bubbling geysers and melted-chocolatelike mud pools, before being mesmerised by the glass blowers at the Lava Glass Factory.

Clear skies ahead Blue skies greeted us on our second day and we stopped off on the drive to Whakapapa to skim stones across the mirror-

Snow-capped peaks reflected in Lake Taup¯o. ABOVE: Orakei Korako Geothermal Area.

calm waters of Lake Taupō, New Zealand’s largest and deepest lake. Whakapapa, on the north side of Ruapehu, is a 40-minute drive from Turangi, the nearest town of any size, and a further 40 minutes from Taupō. As with most NZ ski areas, there’s no accommodation on the mountain itself, save

for a few private club lodges. The nearest is at Whakapapa Village 6km below the resort and at the hamlet of National Park, 25 minutes away. Many stay at Taupō or Turangi after driving in from Auckland. The ski resort itself encompasses Whakapapa and Happy Valley – a learner’s paradise

PHOTOGRAPHY VISIT RUAPEHU, DESTINATION GREAT LAKE TAUPO

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ook Papa, look! Wow. Wow.” These were the only words my 10-year-old grandson Anders could get out. The two of us had taken the Knoll Ridge T-Bar to the top. There he’d spotted the classic crater summit of Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom in The Lord of the Rings films) floating on a sea of clouds beyond the Pinnacles – the jagged rocky ridge that forms the eastern boundary of Whakapapa resort. His words were spot on. Australian skiers and boarders have long been scooting across to New Zealand’s South Island for a snow fix. But rising beyond the southern shores of Lake Taupō on the North Island is the volcano of Mt Ruapehu. On its flanks are two ski resorts, Whakapapa and Turoa, which offer the largest areas, the longest runs and the highest elevation in New Zealand. These facts have slipped well under the radar of most snow watchers on this side of the Tasman. But following a $20 million upgrade over the past two years – with further investment planned – these ski resorts are about to erupt. The clear weather on the summit of Whakapapa was in contrast to our first day in the region. On the four-hour drive

Our first day in Taupō was a day for the thermals


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Explore I MT RUAPEHU

A quick learner

110 at the 1630-metre base of the resort. Courtesy of the aforementioned investment, the sheltered, wide valley now has a series of four covered carpet lifts, a double chairlift and an elevator to take you up and down to the main resort base. There’s a café and ski hire too. Happy Valley is also the home of the new Snow Factory; basically a huge freezer where snowflakes are carved off and blown out onto the slopes in temperatures up to 25 degrees. Happy Valley can thus be topped up throughout the season and now opens early in June, regardless of natural snowfalls.

Heading uphill Above Happy Valley the new Rangatira Express chair opens up a huge

area of mainly blue and black runs dropping into bowls and valleys, or slipping over volcanic ridges. My wife Wendy injured her wrist on the first day, but was happy to sit in the Knoll Ridge Café to take in the views and watch Anders and his 12-yearold sister Anna ripping it up on Shirt Front, Gollum and other runs. The fact Anna happened to have picked Mt Ruapehu for a major school project somehow justified her missing a week of school. This was research after all … Off on my own, I shared a chairlift with David, who worked at Whakapapa. He told me how his German father, as an 18-year-old in Berlin, asked where the best

Happy Valley can thus be topped up throughout the season and now opens early in June fly-fishing in the world was. “Head to NZ and the Tongariro River,” he was told, so he did and fell in love with the area. David was glad he had. Turoa, the other resort, is on the south-west corner of Mt Ruapehu, and can also be accessed with a Mt Ruapehu lift pass. It is accessed from the pretty town of Ohakune. At 2322 metres, Turoa boasts New Zealand’s highest chairlift and the longest vertical descent at 722 metres.

Rising above this point is the true summit of Mt Ruapehu, 2797-metre Tahurangi, the highest point on the North Island. In comparison to Whakapapa, Turoa has wider runs, allowing the kids to practice their turns with confidence down Little Bowl, Boneyard, Whynot and others. Onmountain food at both resorts was similarly priced to off-mountain – a major consideration for families. We also appreciated that food there was served using real plates and cups, rather than the throwaway variety. The icing on the cake at Turoa, at least for Anna and Anders, was meeting Fire, the resort’s search and rescue dog. As black as the lava fields of

PHOTOGRAPHY MT RUAPEHU

A beginner learns the ropes in Happy Valley on Whakapapa.


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Explore I MT RUAPEHU

Heading uphill to Turoa's runs. BELOW: Chair-lift selfies on Turoa.

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his mountain, Fire had replaced the recently retired Ice. His handler Couchy has been on the mountain for nearly 40 years. And now, as well as his dog handling role, Couchy puts his experience to use as the resort weather forecaster. It is one thing on these mountains to get computer predictions, but another to have local

knowledge. Indeed many locals told us that on the same day, on the same mountain, Turoa and Whakapapa could have very different weather. In the ski patrol room I also chatted with Tup, a mere 35-year veteran of Turoa. Tup, of MāoriIrish-Dutch heritage, was now the main avalanche forecaster on the mountain.

In the days we skied on Ruapehu there was a certain vibe that came from sliding down an active volcano. Perhaps this was because we were new to snowsports on a volcano, but many local skiers and boarders told us they felt a strong affinity with that aspect of the mountain. It certainly meant a natural bubbling hot spa was never too far away to soothe ski-weary muscles. That said, the posters in the toilets advising what to do in the event of an eruption made interesting reading. Our week at Ruapehu, and in the wider Great Lake Taupō region, had a real mix of weather. We didn’t ski every day, nor did we plan to. A fantastic week not just of skiing but

of walking, kayaking, hot springs, mountain biking and much more, was best summarised by Anders. As we dropped the rental 4WD back at Auckland Airport, he announced: “I don’t want to leave New Zealand. Maybe I’ll just go home, say goodbye to my friends, and move here.” Huw Kingston was a guest of Destination Great Lake Taup¯o, greatlaketaupo.com, North Island Ski Holiday. northislandskiholiday.com mtruapehu.com

Travel info Jetstar offers great low fares to Auckland and extensive car hire packages. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY MT RUAPEHU

Rumbling away


Explore I WA SOUTHERN FORESTS

CLOCKWISE: Farm-to-fork dishes, sampling local wines, scaling the Diamond Tree, on the truffle hunt, apples for the picking at Newton Orchards, wine tasting, Coleen Roberts of CharCol Springs.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

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Manjimup

Perth

The secret life of farmers A paddock-to-plate experience in WA offers a new appreciation for the land and its produce WORDS LAURA WATERS


Explore I WA SOUTHERN FORESTS

PHOTOGRAPHY CRAIG KINDER FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY, THE TRUFFLE & WINE CO., NEWTON ORCHARDS

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here’s a region nestled amid towering karri forests 300km south of Perth, a kind of Shangri-La where everything seems to thrive. Where vines grow heavy with grapes, crops are abundant and families have remained for generations dedicating energy and passion to the business of growing. “You can plant anything here. I love it,” says Vic Peos, farmer and co-owner of Peos Estate vineyard. He’s referring to the soil, cool climate, generous rainfall and surrounding trees that act as a natural barrier against pests and disease. Over four days I’m on a quest to meet some of the farmers who call this area home. The Genuinely Extraordinary Southern Forests Food and Farm Experience is not an opportunity you get every day. These people are the real deal, producing 70 per cent of the country’s avocados, half of the state’s apples, 90 per cent of its potatoes and the largest bounty of black truffles in the Southern Hemisphere. This is the ultimate paddock-to-plate experience – not only will I see what they do, but I’ll taste it too.

Food trails Manjimup is our base and we begin with a visit to the local farmers’ market to get a glimpse of the region’s offerings. This is a tour that changes with the seasons, taking a behindthe-scenes look at any of the 50 different fruits, vegetables, nuts, beef, sheep, dairy and gourmet foods produced here. I’m keen to visit the Truffle & Wine Co., the largest producer of Périgord black truffles in the world, supplying renowned chefs such as Shannon Bennett and Heston Blumenthal. Technology, science, hard work and a blessed climate is the secret to its success, explains head of sales Alex Wilson, as he places a cool nugget in the palm of my hand. Its pungent aroma is easily sniffed out by the trained labradors who roam up and down the truffière’s 15,000 oak and hazelnut trees. “We use dogs here in Australia, not pigs – though some of them border on piggy-tendencies,” Alex says. “You won’t find a skinny lab around here during truffle season, I assure you.” It seems there’s a lot of “peering over the fence” in this business and on a recent trip to France, Alex spoke with a farmer chuffed with his 30kg harvest dug from a

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Happy hens At our next stop, CharCol Springs egg farm, I meet Charlie Roberts, eyes twinkling above a bushy red beard. “What’s the difference between free range and pastured eggs?” he challenges us. A lot, it seems. Charlie’s pastured hens are constantly on the move, grazing behind fields of cattle. “The best example in nature is the nomadic wildebeest, migrating with the birds following behind them to clean up the bugs and grubs, spreading manure as they go,” he explains. It’s a style of farming that is highly sustainable and

regenerative to the soils, and the end result is a nutrient-rich, healthy and super-tasty egg. After pulling on sterile shoe covers, I am free to wander the fields. Each brood of 500 hens has one-tenth of a hectare to roam – five times more than an average freerange farm – but for some reason they all choose to cluster around me, gently but persistently pecking at my shoelaces. The visit is a hands-on experience; collecting the eggs and checking them for cracks over a backlit conveyor belt, then having my first attempt at milking a cow, which was surprisingly successful under Charlie’s expert tuition. Lunch at Jarrah Jacks Brewery involves platters of melt in the mouth lamb and antipasto, accompanied by tasting paddles of beer. At Lost Lake, winemaker Ashley Lewkowski walks us through the production process, splashing mouthfuls of pinot noir and shiraz into our glasses as we wander the cellar, before sitting us down to

CLOCKWISE: En route to a truffle hunt, prized local blue marron, Charlie Roberts with a fresh pail of milk at CharCol Springs farm, truffle-flavoured dishes, brewery tastings, inside the shearing shed.

PHOTOGRAPHY CRAIG KINDER FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY, LAURA WATERS, GENUINELY EXTRAORDINARY SOUTHERN FORESTS FOOD AND FARM EXPERIENCE

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five-hectare property. “I told him we got over six tonnes from our 20-hectare truffière last year. I actually think I saw a little tear forming.” In the on-site Truffle Restaurant, Italian chef Alberto Zocca shaves truffle over gnocchi, stirs it through creamy risotto and even mixes it through a panna cotta, and the flavour is both subtle and bold. There is nothing else quite like it, and I guess that’s the attraction.


Explore I WA SOUTHERN FORESTS

Local delicacy

a feast of poached marron with fennel, red onion and Bravo apple slaw with finger lime. I confess to having no idea what a marron was until this moment but, luckily, I get the lowdown from Dave Evans at Forest Fresh Marron. These native freshwater crayfish are farmed sustainably in local dams and ponds, then delivered to Dave where they grow in giant tubs until reaching marketable size. In a draughty shed I peer over these critters of varying sizes, in shades of reddish-brown and a striking royal blue.

In the treetops All this eating warrants a little exercise so we head

into the forests to get a closer look at the native karri trees that so define the region. The air is clean and cool, the pale trunks tall and arrowstraight. It’s no surprise there’s a history of logging here, with sawmills in Manjimup and Pemberton closing only a year ago after more than a century of operation. Today, the forests draw tourists, and I sense a peace and purity surrounded by these aged giants. The 49m-tall Diamond Tree was used as a fire lookout tower until 1974, and it’s still possible to reach the platform nestled in its canopy by scaling dozens of steel pegs hammered in a giant swirl around its mighty trunk. I’m focused closely on the rungs, which edge on vertical in places, but I let my gaze wander between them to the everdiminishing forest floor far below and suddenly my legs turn to jelly. We follow up with a wander around the Cascades, where the Lefroy Brook rushes over huge granite slabs, cutting a path through damp, moss-covered forest. In spring, orchids and other wildflowers enhance the scenery.

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Need to know THE GENUINELY EXTRAORDINARY SOUTHERN FORESTS FOOD AND FARM EXPERIENCE Begins Friday evening and runs to noon Monday on the first weekend of every month, coinciding with the Manjimup Farmers’ Market.

On the farm trail Back on the food trail we wander through the packing house at Newton Orchards, watching rows and rows of apples gently bobbing along in shallow water baths to avoid bruising as they are sorted by size. Newton, which has been family owned and operated for more than 85 years, created the hugely popular Pink Lady apple and more recently the Bravo, a dark-skinned,

It’s been a privilege to peek into the world of farming, to meet the characters pale-fleshed creation. Our final feast is at gastropub Tall Timbers, and by now I’ve given up on restraint. Chargrilled sirloin steak with black pepper butter, sautéed cabbage with smoked bacon and hazelnut dukkah – everything

The Tall Timbers gastropub. ABOVE: Bravo apples from Newton Orchards, which is also responsible for the Pink Lady.

sprinkled with those precious shavings of truffle. Served with award-winning drops from nearby Woodgate Wines, food this good is not to be shunned. It’s been a privilege to peek into the world of farming, to meet the characters who live and breathe the land and who no doubt produce some of the food that I eat back home. I’ve gained a tonne of insights under their guidance — and maybe one or two kilos as well. Laura Waters was hosted by the Southern Forests Food Council Inc.

Getting There: Tours depart from Manjimup, a 3.5-hour drive south of Perth. Selfdrive or catch a bus ($101pp round trip). Behind-the-scenes farm visits can only be done on tour, however self-drive anytime to visit the truffle farm, wineries, restaurants and forests of the region. When: Anytime is a good time. Produce varies with the seasons. Tip: Truffle season is end of May to mid-August. Wildflowers bloom August to November.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Perth and extensive car hire options. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY NEWTON ORCHARDS, TALL TIMBERS

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Cost: $1485 single, $1285 twin share Includes four-day/threenight all-inclusive tour with accommodation at the Kingsley Motel Manjimup, minibus transport, local representatives and all meals. southernforestsfood.com


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Visit Melbourne’s sporting heart, the MCG

NATIONAL SPORTS MUSEUM Home to Australia’s largest sporting collection at Australia’s home of sport, the MCG. This contemporary space boasts interactive games for visitors of all ages, 3D holograms of sporting stars like Shane Warne, and memorabilia from some of our country’s biggest sporting heroes. Head to mcg.org.au/nsm for more information and opening times.

MCG TOURS Nothing can match the tradition and heritage of the iconic Melbourne Cricket Ground. Take a guided tour of the MCG and explore areas many do not get to see or experience including the famous MCC Long Room, change rooms and of course, the hallowed arena itself. Head to mcg.org.au/tours for more details and opening times.


Explore I MELBOURNE BIKES

PHOTOGRAPHY VISIT VICTORIA, GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

MELBOURNE

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A wheel adventure

Melbourne is fast emerging as Australia’s urban cycling capital. Here are the city’s trails worth hopping on two wheels for WORDS JAYNE D’ARCY

ABOVE: Enjoy city vistas on two wheels. BOTTOM (left to right): cycle the Dandenongs, Melbourne Bike Share, St Kilda Foreshore is a hub for cyclists.


Explore I MELBOURNE BIKES

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eak hour on Canning Street, Carlton, in Melbourne’s inner north, is not what you expect. It’s not clogged with stinky cars: it’s actually a moving line of people on bicycles – cyclist after cyclist pedalling along the green bike path towards the skyscrapers of Melbourne’s CBD. “People are shocked the first time they see dozens of riders in everything from work clothes to sports clothes pedalling into the city down Canning Street or over Shepherd Bridge from Footscray,” says Craig Richards of Bicycle Network. Yep. Cycling is big in Melbourne. Most of those cycling Canning Street are commuters, best identified by their clothing: jeans, casual T-shirts, and maybe a fashionable musette (messenger bag) slung over their shoulder. Among the commuters – and sometimes outnumbering them – are Melbourne’s road cyclists. Their bikes are most likely made of carbon and their clothes of lycra: the designs of both often indicating their cycling tribe. Still, no matter what they’re wearing, these cyclists have one thing in common: they know that two wheels and a map will get you to some of Melbourne’s best locations.

Explorers on two wheels Craig suggests that visitors to Melbourne should head to the rivers and creeks. “They’re hidden gems and when you’re pedalling along it’s hard to believe you’re in a city of almost five million people. If you spend a day riding the Main Yarra Trail I guarantee you’ll fall in love with a river that cops more than its share of good old Aussie

when you’re pedalling along it’s hard to believe you’re in a city of almost five million people sledging,” he says. The popular Capital City Trail circles Melbourne. Start the 29km loop at the Melbourne Star Ferris wheel in Docklands and follow the Moonee Ponds Creek before popping up in Parkville – right by the Royal Melbourne Zoo. Continue along the old Inner Circle railway line before hitting the Yarra River, which wends to the CBD via the Royal Botanic Gardens and the Melbourne Cricket Ground. Or, in Carlton, take a shortcut up Canning Street and you’ll be at the Melbourne Museum in a flash. Melbourne’s iconic, brightly coloured bathing boxes in Brighton are easy to get to by bike, too. Head to beachy St Kilda then follow the fantastic Bay Trail. Running parallel is another of Craig’s suggestions. “If you like lycra, set the alarm for an early start and hit Beach Road,” he says. Most mornings this beach-side road, running beside Port Phillip Bay, is essentially a


Explore I MELBOURNE BIKES

Cycle into the sunset

PHOTOGRAPHY VISIT VICTORIA, GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The Bayside Cycling Trail, serious cyclists will find great climbs in the Dandenong Ranges, relax after a ride at St Kilda Beach, bikes line the banks of the Yarra River. CENTRE: Cycle past the Melbourne star. INSET: Urban Melbourne’s skyscrapers.

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highway of fast-moving shiny bikes (and cyclists). Many of Melbourne’s bike shops advertise free weekly rides on their Facebook pages – including down Beach Road. Find one that suits your style and turn up at the designated time, ready to roll. Some shops offer longer rides that head out to the scenic Dandenong Ranges or the Yarra Valley.

Cycle chicks There are definitely more “mamils” (middle-aged men in lycra) than women sharing Melbourne’s roads, but this is changing. Women currently make up around 20 per cent of participants of the Bicycle Network’s cycling events, but it is working towards a goal of 50/50. Former local cycling legend Caz Whitehead, who now lives in Adelaide, launched GirlRide! Melbourne on Instagram and Facebook to encourage more women to ride in Melbourne. She started regular women-only rides, and her Facebook page links

There are also so many scenes within Melbourne’s cycling scene women, including visitors, with other women keen on cycling – and not just on the road. “Melbourne is blessed with cycling diversity,” she says. “I miss the largeness of the Melbourne cycling scene,” Caz adds. “There was always someone doing some sort of adventure that I could tag along with. There are also so many scenes within Melbourne’s cycling scene; one day you can ride with the hardcore roadies, the next day you can go for a dirt explore with Melburn Durt, or do a velodrome session with Melburn Hurt.” Or, of course, you can just hire a bike and find your own paths in Melbourne. You may get lost, but that can be part of the fun, too.

Saddle up Sticking around the Docklands, Richmond, Fitzroy and St Kilda grid? Try the big, blue klunkers of Melbourne Bike Share. Unlimited use of them (at 30 minutes a time) for a week costs $8. Livelo Bike Rental hires out fancy road bikes (one, two or three days for $50$95) while Freddy’s Bike Tours can get you on a quality road bike for $30-$35 per day. Just remember: Australia is one of two countries in the world where it’s compulsory to wear a bike helmet while cycling (the other is New Zealand).

Travel info Jetstar has low fares to Melbourne from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY CREATIVE COMMONS / JON LIN

Keep on pedalling

A cyclist pedals along Beach Road. BELOW: A Melbourne Bike Share rider in Fed Square.


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Directory I AUSTRALIA

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Promotion I NEWCASTLE

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taying true to its grand history, dating back to the 1800s, The Lucky Hotel underwent major renovations in 2014 to restore its original façade and give the iconic Newcastle hotel new life. Contrasted against an elegant fitout, the hotel now offers an appealing mix of old and new. Family-owned and operated, the Lucky Hotel is well-known for its authentic American

barbecue. Smoked to perfection, favourites include buffalo chicken wings, smoky beef brisket and barbecued pork ribs. Or try the Lucky Dawg, a mouthwatering combination of crunchy fried onions, sausage, chilli beef, bacon, mustard and cheese on a brioche bun. The hotel also has a central bar, offering craft beer and signature cocktails, and its award-winning accommodation includes 30 boutique rooms

with modern furnishings, luxury bedding and ensuites stocked with L’Occitane products. A favourite spot in the hotel is the stunning internal courtyard, with its lush vertical garden and recycled timbers. At night, the area comes to life with luminous projections splashed across three storeys of exposed brick. Since it opened, The Lucky Hotel has been awarded the following at the NSW AHA Awards for Excellence;

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Party for the people

PHOTO MOOMBA FESTIVAL

Australia’s largest free community festival, Moomba, returns to Melbourne on Labour Day long weekend (9-12 March), with millions expected to attend.

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Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

DOUBLE THE Meet Brett

Life at Jetstar 134 134

WORKING AT JETSTAR is quite a ride. You’ll be supported to develop and explore, and your work will connect people and enrich lives. We can’t promise there won’t be challenges, but that’s what adventure is all about. The satisfaction and sense of achievement makes for an amazing career. But don’t just take our word for it. We talked to team members from across Australia and New Zealand about their Jetstar adventures. Read one of their stories below, or see Life at Jetstar: Jetstar.com/au/en/careers/life-at-jetstar

THIS MONTH our friends at PayPal are giving you the chance to make DOUBLE the difference through StarKids! Simply make a booking through jetstar.com between 15 February and 31 March 2018* and select ‘add a donation to StarKids’, Jetstar’s lifechanging charitable partnership with World Vision Australia. Then, when you pay for your flights with PayPal, your StarKids donation will be matched to help give children living in poverty a brighter future. Thanks PayPal! Find out more at jetstar.com and starkids.jetstar.com or turn to page 139 to see the change you’re making. *Valid for flight bookings made between Thursday 15 February 2018 and Saturday 31 March 2018 on Jetstar.com, where PayPal is selected as the form of payment for the booking. PayPal will match total donations to World Vision for StarKids of up to $50,000 made by Jetstar customers during this period. The PayPal service is provided by PayPal Australia Pty Limited (ABN 93 111 195 389), which holds Australian Financial Services Licence number 304962. Any information provided is

Brett Wilkinson

general only and does not take into account your objectives, financial situation or needs. Please read

Job Title: Licenced Aircraft Maintenance Engineer | Age: 41 | No. of years at Jetstar: 6.5 | Location: Sydney

Describe a typical day: A day shift starts at 4:30am. We begin by preparing the A320/A321 fleet for the day’s first flight. After that we head over to the international terminal to carry out scheduled and unscheduled maintenance on the B787 fleet, getting them ready for flight. An afternoon shift starts with ensuring all B787 aircraft maintenance is complete, or meeting any inbound flights, performing our checks and preparing the aircraft for flight. After that we have dinner then head out to the A320/A321 domestic fleet to carry out overnight scheduled and unscheduled maintenance. We finish an afternoon shift at 2am. In between all of this we can get called out to inbound aircraft that transit through Sydney. There is never a dull moment!

Greatest challenge? Being involved in the introduction of the B787 aircraft into the company. It was the first time an Australian operator had flown the aircraft. Even the manufacturer was learning about how the aircraft were performing. We helped to provide feedback on what we were seeing. Looking back, I feel like we really made a difference What do you love about aviation? Aviation is a dynamic environment and things change by the minute. We are working on some of the most technologically advanced machines in the world and it takes all involved from all areas of the company to ensure the aircraft is ready on time. Everyone works together to ensure the safety of all involved. It’s great to be part of a team. Actually, it’s more like community.

and consider the Combined Financial Services Guide and Product Disclosure Statement before acquiring or using the service.


Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Born leader

CLOSE SHAVE This year marks the 20th anniversary of the World’s Greatest Shave – a campaign to raise money for blood cancer research and support those affected by it. Jetstar cabin crew member Mariah Hatchard (pictured, left, with mum Ayasha) has decided this is the year for her to shave. “I have always loved the idea of participating in the World’s Greatest Shave. I never managed to muster up the courage to do it while at school. Now, being part of such a supportive company and community, I feel this is the right time,” she says. “My grandmother died from cancer before I was born. Helping people is one of my passions, so if I can help someone else meet [a family member] before they pass, I am more than willing to take part. I aim to raise $1000 to help people living with leukaemia.” World’s Greatest Shave takes place 14-18 March. To donate or even sign up to shave, visit worldsgreatestshave.com

Fly Fabulous with Jetstar Jetstar’s fabulous Cabin Crew Queens dazzled the crowd at the 2018 Midsumma Festival, handing out 5000 sunglasses and 2000 bubble blowers. The Melbourne-based event is Victoria’s queer arts and culture festival for the LGBTI communities. Inclusion is a priority for the Jetstar diversity council. “We are proud to support the LGBTI community and to celebrate diversity regardless of sexual orientation or gender orientation,” says Jannette Giles, head of organisational development. Jetstar team members participated in a jam-packed summer of fun. The two main events were Carnival and Pride March, attracting thousands eager to celebrate the ‘Yes’ same-sex marriage vote.

Under one roof THREE YEARS ago, corporate lawyer turned social entrepreneur Sheree Rubenstein decided to pursue her passion and courageously confront the gender gap in business, leadership and entrepreneurship by creating co-working spaces and curated experiences that enable women to truly thrive: One Roof Women. After testing the concept as an Airbnb pop-up, Sheree has quickly morphed One Roof Women into a vibrant community, offering dinners with investors, pitch nights, networking events, introductions to mentors, community lunches, yoga and meditation sessions in Melbourne, Sydney, Los Angeles and New York City. One Roof Women is now home to 84 female-

led businesses including all-female ride-share service Shebah, financial app Finch, wedding planner Wedsites, Genovate recruiters, coding teachers Code like a Girl, and the list goes on. Sheree knows her mission to remove the barriers that exist for women-led businesses is a massive challenge, but she won’t stop until she drives significant change. Kooks is proud to support One Roof Women in creating a more inclusive and equal future. To learn more, visit oneroofwomen.com. To discover the other great Labours of Love Kooks support, visit kooks.com.au

135


Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Off on an adventure

Kicking the

bucket list

136 136

Follow travel writer Robin Esrock as Jetstar helps his family complete the Great Australian Bucket List. ONE DAY, an unlicensed driver skipped a stop sign and drove through an intersection. I happened to be at that exact intersection, and, fortunately, hobbled away with a only a broken kneecap and the realisation that life is too short, and my bucket list is too long. And so began a decade-

long journey to more than 100 countries on seven continents in search of magical experiences, recorded through my bestselling books, a National Geographic TV series, writing and photography. Sometimes, life is just an accident waiting to happen. Now, with Jetstar’s help, my young family is on a mission to find the best experiences in Australia and beyond. Welcome to our journey!

Starting in Victoria, we braved the Eureka Skydeck Edge to orientate ourselves high over Australia’s cultural capital. We then took it back to nature in the Dandenong Ranges on the iconic Puffing Billy steam train. An icy breeze accompanied the Penguin Parade on Phillip Island, but we warmed up on a scorcher of a day at Melbourne’s Brighton Beach boxes. Factoring in the incredible restaurants, Great Ocean

Road, a backstage MCG tour and hot spring soaks in the Mornington Peninsula, Victoria set the bar high. Jetting off to WA, we’re keeping tabs on the Bucket List (and taking extra care at intersections). Follow @robinesrock and his family on their journey at esrockingkids.com. The Great Australian Bucket List will be published by Affirm Press later this year.

Crêpes for Change Crêpes for Change were the recipients of a Jetstar Flying Start Grant in 2016. In addition to running Australia’s first non-profit food truck, they are a team of entrepreneurs passionate about developing initiatives to provide training and employment for young people who are disadvantaged or at risk of homelessness. Concerned at the high level of homelessness in the Northern Territory, Crepes for Change used their $30,000 Jetstar Flying

Start grant to pilot a new initiative – ‘The Northern Territory Social Change Summit’. The Summit culminated in a ‘pitch event’ where each participant was asked to present their idea for the chance to receive a $2,000 start-up grant. The grant was awarded to Hannah Morris, the creator of Blue Sky Connect, a program to connect students in the NT with workplaces that can offer them meaningful work experiences to inspire them to dream big.

Are you eligible?

To find out more about Crepes for Change, go to crepesforchange.com

Jetstar’s Flying Start Program invites community groups across Australia and New Zealand to apply for a $30,000 grant to fund a project that will enrich the lives of people in their local community. Applications are now open, visit jetstar.com to enter.


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Essentials EssentialsI CHANGING I JETSTAR NEWS LIVES

THAILAND I STARKIDS

Support for childhood With help from StarKids, families in Thailand are being equipped with more techniques for raising healthier and happier children

You can help!

WORDS JO SUTTON

STARKIDS DONATION TALLY

Namtan and her mother spend time together. INSET: Child protection training in action.

PHOTO WORLD VISION

N

amtan is excelling at school and is at the top of her kindergarten class. But it wasn’t always like this. During Thailand’s rice planting season, her parents Prateep and Kornkaeo would work in the fields from dawn until dusk, ensuring there was enough food to feed their daughter and extra to sell to save for her education. In other months they’d seek out construction jobs. During these times, Namtan would stay with a neighbour. The time away from her parents had an impact on

This year*

$603,015 Total

$9,733,481 young Namtan, affecting her emotional wellbeing and her behaviour towards others. Prateep and Kornkaeo were invited to attend World Vision child protection training, supported by StarKids. There they received counselling and learnt better strategies for caring for Namtan’s emotional needs, as well as strategies for managing her behaviour. These sessions helped

to make a positive change. “From a girl who didn’t concentrate at school, couldn’t get along with her friends and had low grades; these days she comes home from school with good stories to share about friends and teachers,” her mother Kornkaeo says. “She is noticeably happier and her grades are better… She is also assisting the teacher in teaching other students who are struggling in class.”

MAKE YOUR DESTINATION A BETTER PLACE FOR CHILDREN Through StarKids, Jetstar and World Vision Australia are partnering to improve the lives of children and communities in need. Your donations to StarKids help support communitybased development projects across South-East Asia, Australia and New Zealand. These projects cover a range of activities including education and leadership development in Australia and New Zealand, child protection in Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, improving health in Indonesia, and increasing incomes in Cambodia. By supporting StarKids, you can help transform communities living in poverty and give children a brighter future. A proportion of inflight donations are used to pay for their collation and transfer to World Vision Australia. Donate your loose change on-board today, when booking your next flight with Jetstar, or online at STARKIDS.JETSTAR.COM where you’ll find more information. Your small change today could change a life tomorrow! JETSTAR.COM

*Funds raised in current financial year as of December 2017. Total raised since 2007.

139


Explore Essentials I INTERVIEW I INFLIGHT

YOUR FLIGHT I TIPS & FACTS

CALM ON HIGH

From therapy animals to meditation on the go, there are plenty of ways to find tranquillity while travelling

Spa day

140

An instant mood lifter, massage is said to be responsible for increasing your body’s levels of oxytocin and serotonin – resulting in lowered stress – as well as smoothing out any niggling aches and pains. These days jetsetters don’t have to settle for coin-operated massage chairs; instead relax at the hands of a trained professional in Australia’s first organic airport spa (the Wellness Spa at Brisbane International) or the awardwinning Om Spa (at Hong Kong airport hotel Regal) among others.

Pigs might fly “Working” dogs are a familiar sight at almost any international airport these days. Less familiar are friendly pooches that you can stroke, at least on the shores of Australia and New Zealand. In the US, however, so-called “therapy dogs” can be found at some 30 airports. One stateside airport that has taken to the trend with zeal is San Francisco. Not only does the hub boast a legion of 20 odd pups at its disposal (including Patsy Cline the spaniel and Jackie the former show dog), but in late 2016, SFO also added therapy pig LiLou to its menagerie.

DID you

EAT

As if you needed further excuse to gorge, research has shown that regularly nibbling on dark chocolate (at least 70 per cent cocoa) can lower levels of the stress hormone cortisol. If chocolate isn’t your thing then chewing gum is said to produce a similar result on cortisol levels.

MEDITATE WHILE YOU WAIT With meditation spaces in three of its four terminals, it’s easy to unwind at Singapore’s Changi. Shown to shrink the brain’s “fight or flight” centre, meditation can help reduce stress. Studies also show those who meditate regularly benefit from increased metabolism and lower blood pressure.

KNOW? Being around animals has been shown to lower blood pressure, while petting them is thought to increase levels of stress-reducing hormone oxytocin and decrease stress hormone cortisol.

Puppy

��

In an attempt to soothe the stress of travel during the festive season, Melbourne Airport trialled therapy dogs in Terminal 4 preChristmas last year; an Australian first.


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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

INTERNATIONAL Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar PaciďŹ c

Flights are operated by Jetstar Asia and commence 27 March (Clark-Osaka, Singapore-Sanya)* *subject to government and regulatory approval

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Tokyo (Narita)

Zhengzhou

Nagoya (Chubu)

Osaka (Kansai)

Shanghai (Pudong)

Guangzhou Hanoi Dong Hoi

Chiang Mai

Yangon Bangkok

Shantou

Okinawa Taipei

Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Da Nang Clark Siem Reap Phnom Penh

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phuket Hat Yai Penang 142 Medan

Kuala Lumpur

Pekanbaru

Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya Bali (Denpasar)

Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns Townsville

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane Gold Coast Perth Adelaide

Sydney Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland Wellington Christchurch

Queenstown


Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

DOMESTIC VIETNAM

DOMESTIC JAPAN

Hanoi Hai Phong

Sapporo

Tha nh Hoa V inh Dong Hoi Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku Quy Nhon

Phu Quoc

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot

Matsuyama Osaka (Kansai) Fukuoka Takamatsu Oita Kumamoto

Nha Trang Da Lat

Kagoshima

Miyazaki

Ho Chi Minh City

Okinawa

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Operated by Jetstar PaciďŹ c

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

Auckland New Plymouth Nelson

Darwin

Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Napier Palmerston North Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Ballina Byron Perth

Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide Melbourne (Avalon)

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland

Operated by Jetstar Airways Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 27 March (Wellington-Queenstown)* *subject to government and regulatory approval

Launceston Hobart

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

143


does your mattress do this?


AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

Arriving at our destinations How to get from the airport to town

Touch down in Queenstown

145

Adelaide

Ballina/Byron

9km 20 mins Approx $20-30 Route J1 or J2 every 15-30 mins. Route J1X every hour. Tickets from $3.20-$5.10.

Blanch’s Bus route 640 connects to Ballina, Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby. From $3.80 adult.

Auckland

TO BYRON BAY 31km 30 mins Approx $80-90 Various shuttle buses available. Prices start at $20. Enquire at airport information desk.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

22km 30 mins Approx NZ$75-90 SkyBus. Every 10-30 mins. Adult NZ$16, child NZ$6; return: adult NZ$28, child NZ$12. Takes 40-60 mins 380 Airporter bus service to Manukau City Centre. Every 20-30 mins, NZ$5.

Ayers Rock/Uluru 6km (Ayers Rock Resort) 10 mins Complimentary shuttle buses to Ayers Rock Resort meet every flight. Taxis not available.

TO BALLINA 5km 7 mins Approx $15-20

Brisbane 16km 25 mins Approx $40-50 Con-x-ion Bus. Every 40 mins. Adult $20, return $36. $10 for additional passengers.

Airtrain. Every 15 mins approx. Adult $17; return $32.

Cairns 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Sun Palm Shuttle. Adult $15, child $7.50. Also operates to Port Douglas: adult $44, child $23.50.

Christchurch 12km 20 mins Approx NZ$45-$65 Super Shuttle. NZ$24 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers. Metro Bus Purple line or 29: Every 30 mins. Adult NZ$8, child NZ$5; return: adult NZ$14, child NZ$8.50.

Darwin 13km 15 mins Approx $20-30 Darwin Airport Shuttle.

Meets all flights. Adult $18, child $8; return: adult $30, child $14. Group discounts available.

Dunedin 30km 30 mins Approx NZ$90-100 Super Shuttle, NZ$30 for one person, NZ$10 for additional passengers.

Gold Coast 23km (Surfers Paradise) 40 mins $59 flat rate to Surfers Paradise. $49 flat rate to Broadbeach. See rank supervisor. Con-x-ion Bus. Every 15-30 mins. Adult $22, child $13; return: adult $41, child $22 (bookings essential). Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle. Adult $21, child $13; return:


AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

adult $41, child $21. Bus 777 and 760. Every 30 mins. Tickets from $8.60.

Hamilton Island 5 mins Free airport transfers offered to guests of selected hotels and holiday homes.

Hobart 19km 20 mins Approx $40-50 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Launceston 146

15km 15 mins Approx $30-40 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Mackay TO MACKAY 7km 15 mins Approx $15-25 TO AIRLIE BEACH 160km 2 hours Whitsunday Transfers. Adult $69, child (4-15 yrs) $35; return: adult $120, child $60.

Melbourne (Avalon) TO GEELONG 20km 25 mins Approx $50 Airport Shuttle. Adult $22, child $15; return: $34. Also operates to Bellarine, adult $30, child $16, return: $60; and Great Ocean Rd: adult $32, child $26, return: $64 TO MELBOURNE CBD 55km 45 mins

Approx $130 Sita Coaches to Melbourne. Adult $22, child $10; return: $42.

Melbourne (Tullamarine) 25km 25 mins Approx $60-70 SkyBus. Every 10 mins. Adult $18, child $9; return: adult $36, child $18. Skybus operates Express to Southern Cross Station with free city hotel shuttle connections and services to St Kilda and Frankston.

Napier/Hawke’s Bay 6km 10 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Super Shuttle to Napier, NZ$20 for one person, NZ$7 for additional passengers. TO HASTINGS NZ$43, and Havelock North NZ$45. Village Shuttle to Hastings, NZ$38, and Havelock North NZ$40, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Nelson 8km 15 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Nelson Shuttle NZ$18 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers; Super Shuttle NZ$19 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Newcastle 27km 40 mins Approx $70-80 Shuttle Bus, $40 for one person; $10 for additional passengers.

Enquire at airport information desk. Port Stephens Coach route 130. Adult $4.60, child $2.30.

New Plymouth 12km 15 mins Approx NZ$40 Scotts Airport Shuttle (bookings preferred). From NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Palmerston North 5km 10 mins Approx NZ$20 Super Shuttles. Adult NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Perth 12km (domestic terminal); 19km (international terminal) 40 mins Approx $35-45 Perth Airport Connect. Tickets $15; return: $30. Transperth Bus 40 from T3/T4. Route 380 from T1/T2. Tickets from $4.50.

Queenstown 8km 10 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$6 for additional passengers. Connectabus. Every 15 mins. Adult NZ$12; child NZ$5.50.

Sunshine Coast TO NOOSA 30km 30 mins Approx $80 Henry’s Airporter shuttle bus. Adult $30, child $16; return: adult $60, child $32

Translink Bus 622, adult $9.70, child $4.80. TO MAROOCHYDORE 9km 12 mins Approx $23 Con-x-ion buses. Adult $20, child $12, return: adult $40, child $22. TransLink Bus 622. Adult $5.60, child $2.80.

Sydney 8km 20 mins Approx $45-55 Airport Link train from domestic and international terminals. Every 10 mins approx (weekdays). Gate Pass: Adult $13.80, child $12.40, plus cost of rail component.

Townsville 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Airport shuttle. Adult $10, child $5.

Wellington 8km 25 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers. Airport Flyer route 91 bus. Every 10-20 mins. Adult NZ$6-$12, child NZ$4-$7.

Whitsunday Coast/Proserpine Airlie Beach 40km 35 mins Approx $90 Whitsunday Transit. Adult $18, child $13. Whitsunday Transfers. Adult $18, child $13; return: adult $34, child $18. Bookings not required.


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Kids puzzles

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Puzzles

CROSSWORD ACROSS

DOWN

1 Architecturally, what is two layers of glass separated by empty space? (6,7) 7 In the 1980s, what were TV programs recorded onto? (5,8) 10 What are winds blowing from the north-east? (13) 11 The French name for appetisers, canapes or “nibblesâ€?. (4,1’7) 14 In The Simpsons, who is Todd Flanders’ brother? (3) 15 The apparatus in rhythmic gymnastics are rope, ball, clubs, ribbon and ‌ (4) 16 Salt Lake City is the capital of which US state? (4) 18 What’s the common name for the natural antiseptic melaleuca oil? (3,4,3) 19 What’s the abbreviation for “extra largeâ€? in clothing sizes? (2) 21 What was the colonial name for Uluru? (5,4) 22 What is a global positioning system commonly called? (3)

1 What light meal of scones, jam and cream is served with tea? (10,3) 2 What is a university student completing their first degree? (13) 3 What small sharks have spots and stripes and are also called zebra sharks? (7,6) 4 Who said “Fee-fi-fo-fumâ€?? (5) 5 What is “zedâ€? called in the US (3) 6 Olivia Newton-John played Sandy in the 1978 film of which musical? (6) 8 “Pancake Tuesdayâ€? is formally called â€œâ€Ś Tuesdayâ€?. (6) 9 What’s a name for any group of three events? (8) 12 What’s the colloquial name for the science of evolution development? (3-4) 13 Blue ‌ are the largest animals known to have existed. (6) 17 What is the professional name of American singer-songwriter Alecia Beth Moore? (4) 20 What sports car was named after Morris Garages? (2)























  



 



 





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QUIZ ANSWERS 1_The Apple Isle 2_As Australia's largest penal colony 3_B) 335 islands 4_True 5_Cascade Brewery 6_Abalone 7_Mount Ossa 8_From the growls and screams early European settlers heard them make 9_True 10_A) 1642 11_Van Diemenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Land 12_Salamanca Market 13_B) 20 per cent 14_The Huon pine tree

152

8. How did Tasmanian Devils earn their name? 9. True or false: Tasmania has more golf courses per capita than any other Australian state. 10. When was Tasmania first â&#x20AC;&#x153;discoveredâ&#x20AC;? by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman? A) 1642 B) 1700 C) 1851 11. What was the original name given to Tasmania by the European settlers? 12. What is Tasmaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mostvisited attraction? 13. Approximately what percent of Tasmania's landmass is World-Heritage listed? A) 10 per cent B) 20 per cent C) 60 per cent 14. Which iconic Tasmania tree has been known to live more than 2000 years?

1. By what nickname is Tasmania commonly known? 2. The small town of Port Arthur became infamous for what reason? 3. Tasmania comprises how many islands? A) 3 B) 335 C) 33 4. True or false: the early '90s American cartoon Taz-Mania was based on Tasmania and the Tasmanian Devil. 5. The oldest operating brewery in Australia is based out of Hobart. What is it called? 6. Tasmania is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest supplier of what wild-caught shellfish? 7. What is Tasmaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest mountain? A) Cradle Mountain B) Mount Wellington C) Mount Ossa


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Movies, TV, music and more I MARCH 2018 I Entertainment

Inflight

Entertainment EXCITING CONTENT, GREAT VALUE! Be entertained en route to your destination – we’ve got a great selection of movies, top TV comedy and drama series, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and games to choose from. Follow the guide to see what’s available

ONLY

$10

AUD Blockbuster movies TV comedy and drama Kids’ favourites Hit music Games

© 2017 MARVEL

155

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© 2017 MARVEL

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Thor: Ragnarok

Jungle

マイティ・ソー バトルロイヤル

ジャングル/ギンズバー

| 130 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN, ENGCC DIRECTOR: Taika Waititi CAST: Chris Hemsworth, Tom Hiddleston, Cate Blanchett

Ride along with the God of Thunder as he battles intergalactic obstacles and powerful enemies in an effort to save his home planet. Filmed in Queensland, starring Chris Hemsworth and Cate Blanchett and directed by Kiwi Taika Waititi, Thor: Ragnarok is a superhero blockbuster with humour and heart. This colourful action-packed film has set records in global markets, and has already earned more than $800 million worldwide. ソーはアスガルドを破滅から救うために、辺境の惑星か ら舞い戻り戦わなければならない。

| 115 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: Greg McLean CAST: Daniel Radcliffe, Thomas Kretschmann, Alex Russell

A group of friends trek into the Bolivian jungle, soon finding themselves in peril. 友人グループは、1人の ガイドと共にボリビアの ジャングルへと足を踏み 入れる。

| 99 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Jayson Thiessen CAST: Emily Blunt, Kristin Chenoweth, Liev Schreiber

The ponies must battle the menacing Storm King for the future of Equestria. ポニーたちはエクエスト リアの未来のために、横 暴なストーム・キングに 闘いを挑まなければな らない。

Stronger | 116 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: David Gordon Green CAST: Jake Gyllenhaal, Tatiana Maslany, Miranda Richardson

Jeff Bauman becomes a double amputee and a local hero after the Boston bombing. ボストン・マラソンの爆発 で両足を失ったジェフ・ ボウマンは、地元の英雄 となる。

General

全年齢層鑑賞可能

A Bad Moms Christmas | 104 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Scott Moore, Jon Lucas CAST: Mila Kunis, Kristen Bell, Susan Sarandon

The Bad Moms are back and ready to break free from the pressures of the holidays and enjoy Christmas. 家族とクリスマスを楽し むために、 バッド・ママた ちが戻ってきた。

LANGUAGES AVAILABLE:

©2017 Warner Bros. Ent.

© 2017 Warner Brothers.

156

グ19日間の軌跡

My Little Pony: The Movie

Blade Runner 2049

The LEGO Ninjago Movie

ブレードランナー 2049

レゴ ニンジャゴー/

| 164 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Denis Villeneuve CAST: Ryan Gosling, Mackenzie Davis, Lennie James

A new blade runner, LAPD Officer K unearths a longburied secret. 新たにロス市警のブレー ドランナーになった捜査 官Kは、長い間隠ぺいさ れていた秘密を暴く。

JPN: Japanese

CHS: Chinese subtitles

ザ・ムービー

| 101 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Charlie Bean, Paul Fisher, Bob Logan CAST: Fred Armisen, Dave Franco

Young Lloyd takes on the Worst Guy Ever. グリーン・ニンジャこと 若きロイドはガーマド ンことワースト・ガイ・エ バーを倒さなければな らない。

Parental guidance recommended 保護者同伴推奨

American Assassin | 112 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Michael Cuesta CAST: Dylan O’Brien, Michael Keaton, Scott Adkins

A CIA black ops recruit and a Cold War veteran are enlisted to investigate a wave of random attacks. CIAの秘密工作員とその 指導担当は二人で無差

別連続テロ事件の調査に

当たる。

ENG: English ENS: English subtitles ENCC: English closed captioning

Recommended for mature audiences 成人推奨

Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian

15歳未満非推奨。15歳未満は 保護者または成人の同伴が必要

Restricted to 18 and over 18歳以上観覧可

Check the classification

Check the classification 分類を確認のこと


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Three Summers

Battle of the Sexes

| 120 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Ben Elton CAST: Nichola Balestri, Nicholas Boshier, Kate Box

| 121 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Jonathan Dayton, Valerie Faris CAST: Emma Stone, Steve Carell, Andrea Riseborough

A slight and sunny love story set over three consecutive iterations of the fictional Westifal music festival (slogan: “Let’s get folked up”).

ビリー・ジーン・キングとボ ビー・リッグスが1973年

に行った衝撃的なテニス

の試合を描く。

Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri スリー・ビルボード

| 115 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Martin McDonagh CAST: Frances McDormand, Woody Harrelson, Sam Rockwell

The mother of a murder victim provokes the police. 未解決殺人事件の被害 者の母であるミルドレッ ド・ヘイズは、警察に対し て闘いを挑む。

Murder On The Orient Express オリエント急行殺人事件

| 114 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Kenneth Branagh CAST: Johnny Depp, Daisy Ridley, Michelle Pfeiffer

Hercule Poirot investigates a murder on the most famous train in the world. 私立探偵エルキュール・ ポワロが有名な列車で 起こった殺人事件を調 査する。

| 106 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Simon Curtis CAST: Domhnall Gleeson, Margot Robbie, Kelly Macdonald

A glimpse into the relationship between beloved author A.A. Milne and his son Christopher Robin.

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

Goodbye Christopher Robin

Kingsman: The Golden Circle

キングスマン:ゴールデ

ン・サークル

| 140 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Matthew Vaughn CAST: Colin Firth, Julianne Moore, Taron Egerton

After Kingsman HQ is destroyed, Eggsy and Merlin go to the US.

人々に愛される児童文学 作家A・A・ミルンと息子 のクリストファー・ロビン の人生をたどる。

キングスマンの司令部が 破壊され、 エグジーとマー リンはアメリカに向かわね ばならない。

©2017 Warner Bros. Ent.

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

158

架空の音楽フェス、 ウェス ティファル・ミュージックフ ェスでの3年間を舞台にし たラブストーリー。

The 1973 tennis match between Billie Jean King and Bobby Riggs.

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Kong: Skull Island

La La Land

Moonlight

Mad World

キングコング: 髑髏島

ラ・ラ・ランド

ムーンライト

一念無明

| 128 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & JPN DIRECTOR: Damian Chazelle CAST: Ryan Gosling, Emma Stone

| 111 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Barry Jenkins CAST: Mahershala Ali, Shaiff Earp, Naomie Harris

| 143 mins LANGUAGE: CHS & ENS DIRECTOR: Wong Chun CAST: Shawn Yue, Eric Tsang, Elaine Jin

の巨神

| 118 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Jordan Vogt-Roberts CAST: Samuel L. Jackson, Brie Larson, Toby Kebbell

A diverse team of scientists, soldiers and adventurers unite to explore an uncharted island in the Pacific. 科学者、 軍人、 探検隊から 成るチームは協力し合い、 島の調査を行う。

As aspiring actress Mia and jazz musician Sebastian chase their dreams, something unexpected happens: they find each other. しかし、 なかなか掴まえら れない夢を追いかけるミア とセバスチャンに、 素晴ら しいことが起きる。

Chronicles the life of a young black man from childhood to adulthood growing up in a rough neighborhood of Miami. 少年期から成人期まで の若い黒人男性の人生 を描く。

Tung finds himself being cared for by his distant father after his release from a mental hospital, and having traumatic flashbacks. 精神病院から退院したタ ンは、疎遠になっていた 父親の世話を受けること になる。


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Practical Magic

Sekigahara

プラクティカル・マジック

ボディガード

| 150 mins LANGUAGE: JPN & ENS DIRECTOR: Masato Harada CAST: Junichi Okada, Koji Yakusho, Kasumi Arimura

| 104 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Griffin Dunne CAST: Sandra Bullock, Nicole Kidman, Stockard Channing

| 129 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Mick Jackson CAST: Kevin Costner, Whitney Houston, Gary Kemp

The Battle of Sekigahara takes place in 1600, fought between the Western Army led by Mitsunari Ishida and the Eastern Army led by Ieyasu Tokugawa.

Two sisters struggle to use their hereditary gift for practical magic to overcome the obstacles in discovering true love.

A high-profile singer and actress first clashes and then falls in love with the ex-secret service agent hired to protect her.

Home

ホーム 宇宙人ブーヴのゆ かいな大冒険

| 94 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Tim Johnson CAST: Jim Parsons, Rihanna, Steve Martin

Loveable misfit Oh lands on Earth and forms an unlikely friendship with a girl named Tip. 仲間から逃亡中の宇宙 人が人間の少女と友だち になる。

ストーカーに脅迫されて いるポップシンガーが経 験豊かなボディガード を雇う。

Penguins of Madagascar

Mr. Peabody & Sherman

ガスカル ザ・ムービー

ムトラベル

| 94 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & JPN DIRECTOR: Eric Darnell, Simon J. Smith CAST: Tom McGrath, Chris Miller, Christopher Knights

| 92 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & JPN DIRECTOR: Rob Minkoff CAST: Ty Burrell, Max Charles, Ariel Winter

ペンギンズ FROM マダ

The penguin spy team faces an evil doctor. ペンギンのスーパース パイチームはオクタヴ ィアス・ブリン博士の陰 謀を阻止しなければな らない。

天才犬ピーボ博士のタイ

The world’s most accomplished dog, Mr. Peabody, goes on adventures with mischievous Sherman. 天才犬ピーボ博士と養 子のシャーマンがタイム トラベルを行う。

© 2016 DreamWorks Animation, L.L.C.

石田三成と徳川家康 が関ケ原の戦いで対決 する。

二人の姉妹は真の愛を 見つけるために障害を克 服すべく、先祖代々受け 継いできた魔術を使って 運命を変えようとする。

© 2015 DreamWorks Animation, L.L.C.

160

The Bodyguard

関ケ原

© 2014 DreamWorks Animation, L.L.C.

© 1992 Warner Brothers.

© 2014 DreamWorks Animation, L.L.C.

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Trolls

トロールズ

| 92 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Mike Mitchell, Walt Dohrn CAST: Anna Kendrick, Justin Timberlake

After Troll Village is invaded, Poppy, the happiest Troll ever, and the overly-cautious and cranky Branch set off on a journey. ベルゲンズがトロール村 を侵略し、ポピーとブラ ンチは旅に出る。

Crocodile Dundee 2

クロコダイル・ダンデ

ィー2

| 106 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: John Cornell CAST: Paul Hogan, Linda Kozlowski, John Meillon

An evil drug baron kidnaps Mick Dundee’s American girlfriend Sue. ミック・ダンディーのアメ リカ人の恋人スーが麻薬 組織の大物に誘拐され てしまう。

Casino Royale

Point Break

007 カジノ・ロワイヤル

ハートブルー

| 144 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Martin Campbell CAST: Daniel Craig, Eva Green, Mads Mikkelsen

| 120 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Kathryn Bigelow CAST: Patrick Swayze, Keanu Reeves, Gary Busey

Newly minted secret agent James Bond is pitted against an infamous financier of international terrorism in a shootout – at the poker table. 新たな秘密諜報員ジェー ムズ・ボンドは、テロ組織 の投資家と対決する。

Young agent Johnny Utah goes undercover with surfers who might be bank robbers. 若き捜査官ジョニー・ユ タは、銀行強盗犯の容疑 がかかったサーファーグ ループへの潜入捜査を 開始する。


Entertainment I TV SHOWS I Available on 787 seatback screens

COMEDY SERIES

© 2016 Fox and its related entities.

22 mins per episode, Season 1

スーパーナチュラル

Supernatural

Empire

22 mins per episode, Season 8

This comedy, narrated by a grown-up Sheldon, introduces us to the stars of hit TV show The Big Bang Theory in their childhoods.

45 mins per episode, Season 13

45 mins per episode, Season 3

Two brothers protect humanity by battling destructive supernatural forces, including creatures from Heaven, Hell, and Purgatory, with the help of various friends and even angels.

A powerful family drama about the head of a music empire whose three sons and ex-wife all battle for his throne.

ビッグバン★セオリー

22 mins per episode, Season 11

Penny moves in across the hall from Leonard and Sheldon, two gifted but socially awkward best friends. She befriends the brainy duo and teaches them about life outside the science lab. ペニーは、社会スキルが欠けて いる隣人たちに研究室の外の 世界を教える。

The Middle* ザ・ミドル 中流家族のフツー の幸せ

22 mins per episode, Season 9

Middle-aged, middle class and living in the middle of the country, Frankie Heck is a wife and working mother of three who uses her wit and sense of humour to get her family through each day intact. インディアナ州に住む機能不全 気味の家族が繰り広げる、 日々 の災難を描く。

Speechless** 22 mins per episode, Season 1

Maya DiMeo is a mum on a mission who will do anything for her husband and kids including eldest son JJ, who has cerebral palsy. 脳性まひの長男JJをはじめとす る子供たちと夫のためなら、 ど んな苦労も厭わない母親マヤ・ ディメオを描く。

Bob’s Burgers*** 22 mins per episode, Season 7

An animated series that follows the daily life of a working-class man, Bob, and his ever-quirky family who together run the restaurant Bob’s Burgers. ワーキングクラスのボブの日常 を描くアニメシリーズ。

American Dad **** アメリカン・ダッド

22 mins per episode, Season 13

Misadventures of a gung-ho CIA agent trying to keep a leash on his daughter. 娘を支配しようとする、職務に 非常に献身的なCIA捜査官の 災難を描く。

Riverdale*****

天国、地獄、煉獄からやって 来た邪悪な超常的存在か ら人類を守るため、友人や 天使と手を組み、戦う兄弟 の物語。

リバーデイル

45 mins per episode, Season 2

High school students in the small town of Riverdale are still reeling from the tragic and mysterious death of one of their classmates.

Arrow

ARROW/アロー

45 mins per episode, Season 6

A former playboy who has just spent five years learning to survive on a desert island returns to his hometown and decides to use his new skills to right wrongs as a masked vigilante. 砂漠の島で5年間かけて生き 残るスキルを学んだ元プレイ ボーイ。彼は故郷に戻り、 マス クを付けた自警主義者身とし て新しいスキルを使おうと決 意する。

高校生たちは、 クラスメイトの悲 劇的な謎の死に直面した。

Gotham

GOTHAM/ゴッサム

45 mins per episode, Season 4

Before Bruce Wayne grows up and becomes Batman, police detective James Gordon fights crime in corrupt Gotham City. ジェームズ・ゴードン刑事が腐 敗したゴッサム・シティで起こる 犯罪に立ち向かう。

THE BIG BANG THEORY, THE MIDDLE © 2017 WARNER BROTHERS.**SPEECHLESS © 2016-2017 AMERICAN BROADCASTING COMPANIES. ***BOB’S BURGERS © 2016-2017 FOX AND ITS RELATED ENTITIES. **** AMERICAN DAD ©2014 FOX AND ITS RELATED ENTITIES. *****RIVERDALE ©2017 WARNER BROS. ENT.

The Big Bang Theory*

介するコメディー。

音楽界の帝王にまつわるパワフ ルなファミリードラマ。

*

3つのモダンな家族を描くコ メディードラマ。

「ビッグバン★セオリー/ギー クなボクらの恋愛法則」 に出演 するスターたちの子供時代を紹

EMPIRE 成功の代償

©2017 Warner Bros. Ent.

Follow the comical exploits of three families as they work out what it means to be a ‘modern family’. Phil and Claire struggle to keep up with their three kids, Claire’s dad is married to a feisty Latina woman while Jay’s gay son and his partner adopt a little girl. 162

Young Sheldon

モダン・ファミリー

©2017 Warner Bros. Ent.

Modern Family

©2017 Warner Bros. Ent.

© 2016-2017 American Broadcasting Companies.

© 2017 Warner Brothers.

DRAMA SERIES


Entertainment I TV SHOWS I Available on 787 seatback screens

© Disney Enterprises, Inc.

スタントマンの驚きの仕事 ぶりを紹介する。

164

The Lap of Tasmania 52 mins per episode

How can we consume less? Live our dreams? Meet new friends? Adventure more? And have a bloody good time doing it? Follow Dustin Hollick and Rhian Slapp, two ordinary fathers with the survival skills of welltrained house pets, on a two-week journey around Tasmania with not much more than the clothes on their backs. ダスティン・ホリックとライ アン・スラップが2週間タ スマニアを旅行する様子 を紹介。

ツムツム

54 mins per episode, Season 2

2 mins per episode

7 mins per episode

The Insider series sees Reggie Yates live life for real in some of the world’s most diverse and demanding places and brutal institutions.

The Tsums set out on a mission to create collectible memories of themselves.

From directors Nathan Greno and Byron Howard, the talented team responsible for the 2010 Disney global blockbuster feature, Tangled, comes this delightful all-new short animated film spotlighting the royal wedding of Rapunzel and Flynn Rider.

「ザ・インサイダー」 では、 レ ジー・イエーツが世界で最も 多様で厳しい場所で実際に 生活する様子を紹介する。

A Taste of Hong Kong 30 mins per episode, Season 4

A Taste of Hong Kong is jam-packed with the attractions which highlight Hong Kong’s vibrant diversity. Iconic local celebrity Josie Ho shares her insider knowledge to give her visiting guests a taste of Hong Kong like never before. 地元の有名人ジョシー・ホ ーが地元人ならではの知識 を紹介し、ゲストにこれまで 知られていない香港の味を 披露する。

Handmade in Japan 60 mins per episode

Handmade in Japan celebrates Japan’s craft heritage by examining the making of a Samurai sword, traditional pottery and the craft of kimonos. 日本刀、伝統的な焼き物、呉 服などの制作過程を詳しく 調べて、 日本の伝統工芸を紹 介する番組。

Tangled Ever After

Disney Tsum Tsum

ラプンツェルのウェディング

ツムたちは価値ある思い出作 りのミッションを開始する。

Elena of Avalor*

アバローのプリンセス エレナ

23 mins per episode

Princess Elena must learn to rule Avalor with the help of a Grand Council. プリンセス・エレナは評議会の力 を借りながら、 アバローを統治 する術を学んでいく。

ネイサン・グレノとバイロン・ ハワードの両監督による新作 短編アニメーション映画。

Mickey and the Roadster Racers* ミッキーマウスとロードレ ーサーズ

23 mins per episode

Hot rod diggity dog! The Sensational Six are on the move.

Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy ガーディアンズ・オブ・ギャラ

クシー

29 mins per episode

それいけ、改造レースカー! センセーショナルな6人組が 出発だ!

Disney Mickey Mouse* ディズニー ミッキーマウス!

4 mins per episode

Mickey Mouse finds himself in silly situations all around the world. ミッキーマウスが世界中でハプ ニングに巻き込まれる。

Lego Ninjago

When Rocket and Drax wake up with absolutely no memory of the night before, it’s up to the Guardians to piece together their adventures.

レゴ ニンジャゴー

ガーディアンはロケットとド ラックスの冒険の記憶をつな ぎ合わせる。

ニンジャたちは時空の支配者と して知られるマスターを打ち負 かさなければならない。

22 mins per episode, Season 7

The Ninjas need to defeat the masters known as the Hands of Time.

ELENA OF AVALOR, DISNEY MICKEY MOUSE, MICKEY AND THE ROADSTER RACERS © DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC

Discover the extraordinary lives of those who, day in day out, risk their own lives to bring you some of the most incredible performances ever seen before in any sport or in the acrobatic field: the stuntmen!

The Insider: Reggie Yates

*

52 mins per episode

© Disney Enterprises, Inc.

Extreme Stuntmen

© Disney Enterprises, Inc.

KIDS

LIFESTYLE & REALITY


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Entertainment I AUDIO/GAMES I Available on 787 seatback screens

ALBUMS

Paul Kelly

PNAU Changa

Paul Kelly Rising Moon

Chrissy, Sam & Browny

ピニャウ チャンガ

ポール・ケリー ライジング・ムーン

クリッシー、サム&ブラウニー・ポッ

Guy Sebastian Conscious

Adam Eckersley & Brooke McClymont Train Wreck

Fitzy & Wippa フィッツィー&ウィ

ガイ・セバスチャン コンシャス

Taylor Swift Reputation テイラー・スウィフト レピュテーション

Seal Standards (Deluxe) シール スタンダーズ (デラックス)

Daryl Braithwaite Days Go By: The Definitive Greatest Hits Collection 166

PODCASTS & RADIO

ダリル・ブレイスウェイト デイズ・

ゴー・バイ:ザ・ディフィニティヴ・グ

レイテスト…

MUSIC VIDEOS

アダム・エッカースレイ&ブル

ック・マクライモント トレイン・ レック

Kate Miller-Heidke, Passenger (OZ) Share your Air

ケイト・ミラー=ハイドキー、 パッセ

ンジャー ‘シェア・ユア・エア

ワー・ウェイ・ホーム

Starley Call On Me (Ryan Riback Remix) スターレイ コール・オン・ミー(ライア ン・リバック・リミックス)

Pnau Chameleon ピニャウ カメレオン

Sam Smith One last Song

サム・スミス ワン・ラスト・ソング

ム・ポッドキャスト

Fifi, Fev & Byron フィフィ、フェ ヴ&バイロン

アレッソ ft. フロリダ・ジョー

カイル&ジャッキーO・ポッドキャスト

ー・ポッドキャスト

ジア・ライン&ワット レット・ミ ー・ゴー

“PukaUp” Wayne Schwass

ースティック)

エンパイア・オヴ・ザ・サン オン・ア

The Grill Team ザ・グリル・チー

The Kyle & Jackie O Show

ウィ・クッド・ゴー・バック (アコ

Empire of the Sun On our way home

ム&マーティー・ポッドキャスト

ヘイリー・ステインフェルド&

ジョナス・ブルー ft. モーロゴ ‘

ヴェラ・ブルー レギュラー・タッチ

Kate, Tim & Marty ケイト、ティ

Carrie & Tommy キャリー&トミ

We could go back (Acoustic)

Vera Blue Regular Touch

ッパ・ポッドキャスト

Hailee Steinfeld & Alesso ft. Florida Georgia Line & Watt Let Me Go

Jonas Blue ft. Moelogo

Vera Blue

ドキャスト

Shania Twain Swingin’ with my eyes closed

シャナイア・トゥウェイン スウ

ィンギン・ウィズ・マイ・アイズ・ク ローズド

「プカアップ」 ウェイン・シュワス

“The Big Questions” Adam Spencer「ザ・ビッグ・クエスチョン

Taylor Swift

We Fact Up ウィ・ファクト・アッ プ・ポッドキャスト The Property Couch ザ・プロパ

ティ・コーチ

Game On Australia ゲーム・オ ン・オーストラリア

Osher Gunsberg Podcast

オッシャー・ガンズバーグ ポッドキ ャスト7

NOVA Hear the freshest hits on NOVA, hosted by Smallzy. オーストラリアからスマルジーが最 新ヒット曲をお届けします。

Smooth FM Chill out to these favourites. イージーリスニングプログラム。

GAMES

ズ」 アダム・スペンサー

“A Plate to Call Home” Gary Mehigan 「ア・プレート・トゥ・コ ール・ホーム」 ゲイリー・メヒガン

“The Next Billion Seconds” Mark Pesce 「ザ・ネクスト・ビリ オン・セカンズ」 マーク・ペシ

Tetris

テトリス

Chess

チェス

Meg Mac I didn’t want to get so low but I had to

“ChangeMakers” Amanda Tattersall 「チェンジメーカーズ」 アマンダ・タッターサル

Bejeweled 2

メグ・マック アイ・ディドゥント・

The Slow Home ザ・スロー・ホー

Blackjack

The Pass Food Podcast

ズニークラシックゲーム

ウォント・トゥ・ゲット・ソー・ロ ー・バット・アイ・ハッド・トゥ

ム・ポッドキャスト

Katy Perry Roar

ザ・パス・フード・ポッドキャスト

ケイティ・ペリー ロアー〜最強

Kinderling Conversation

ガール宣言!

キンダリング・カンバセーションズ

Silverchair Straight Lines

The Distruptive Entrepreneur

シルヴァーチェア ストレート・

ラインズ

ザ・ディストラプティヴ・アントレプ レナー

ビジュエルド2

ブラックジャック

Disney’s Classic Games Golf Open

ゴルフゲーム

Hangman

ハングマン

MemoPics

メモリーゲーム

S.U.D.O.K.U. Solitaire

ディ

数独 (SUDOKU)

ソリティア


Backpage I TRAVEL TALES

Spirit shared Worship in the Cook Islands is authentic, beautiful and utterly welcoming

168

SNEAKING INTO the church slightly late, we realise that despite our best efforts to swap beachwear for something more respectable, we are underdressed. There are only 12 people in the congregation and each man wears a suit and tie (albeit with thongs). The women look spectacular – each in their Sunday best and crowned with a magnificent rito, an elegant woven hat decorated with flowers. My past experiences of churches in Australia consisted of large, multi-generational congregations with electric guitars playing pop-inspired worship music. The Cook Islands church we’ve chosen on a whim – it’s the closest to our accommodation – is somewhat different. The average age is 60 and the lack of a band doesn’t stop this humbly sized congregation from making some of the most authentic and beautiful music I’ve ever experienced. Each member has a voice to be reckoned with – they belt out every note as though it’s keeping them alive. Although all face the minister at the front, I suspect the woman with the loudest voice is leading the

Making us feel part of their community, if only for a day chorus. It’s all sung in Cook Islands Māori and, as the voices dip into the harmonies, I assume the gift has come after decades of singing every Sunday. Although we try our best to hum along, my partner and I feel awkward – for being late, for not being dressed

formally enough, for not sharing the faith we are witnessing, for not speaking the language or knowing the melodies. We wonder if we aren’t welcome. Although the prayers and songs are in islander, the bible reading and sermon are in English. The priest speaks about the history of the islands and the good fortune and pride of his people. He also speaks about the future: the threat of climate change and disappearing traditions. Throughout it all, their

religion sustains them and, so it seems, keeps them joyful despite turmoil. When the service is over, people start to march promptly out, and I’m disappointed not to talk to anyone. But then the priest beckons us over and says: “Let us welcome you.” I’m touched, and embarrassed to see that the small congregation has lined up to shake our hands and wish us on our way – each making us feel part of their community, if only for a day.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

WORDS SOPHIE HULL


Jetstar March 2018 Magazine  

Jetstar ANZ March 2018 Magazine

Jetstar March 2018 Magazine  

Jetstar ANZ March 2018 Magazine

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