Jetstar June 2018 Magazine

jetstar MAGAZINE

JUNE 2018

DIVE IN

An underwater world beckons in the Gili Islands

FOOD IN FOCUS

Feast your eyes on Malaysia’s culinary capital

PICTURE PERFECT

The cultural sites putting the ‘art’ into Hobart

TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND I GLAMPACKING I SINGAPORE I SAPPHIRE COAST, NSW

COVER STORY

Golden ticket YOUR PASS TO FUN BEYOND THE SKI SLOPES IN QUEENSTOWN

MAGAZINE

JUNE 2018

Promotion I TASMANIA

winter?

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Do winter your way. Indoors or outdoors, with guilt-free comfort food and warming whiskies in cosy hideaways. Tassie has its own take on the Danish hygge in winter, with experiences to match every type of traveller.

So which type are you?

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Promotion I TASMANIA THE FORAGING FOODIE THE CURIOUS EXPLORER

You’re always on the scent of the next food trend and would jump at the chance to join the hunt for Tassie truffles, drink rich red wines and devour comfort food.

D GOURMET WALKS From chocolate to whisky, cheese to cider, Brock Kerslake loves tasting, walking and talking. Join his Taste.Walk.Talk tour and discover Launceston like a local foodie.

You’re forever gathering uncommon experiences. You seek things that will open your mind and indulge the senses.

A DARKNESS & MYSTERY This Hobart festival may contain dark themes, but gosh it’s fun. Embrace Dark Mofo and mark the solstice with a mass nude swim, or simply take in the art, music, drama and food (15-24 June).

B WINTER WASSAILING Join an age-old tradition and partake in the wassailing at the Huon Valley Mid-Winter Festival (13-15 July). Bang drums, hark to apple gods and join the locals for feasting and quaffing craft cider.

WEEK OF WHISKY Warm your cockles during Tasmanian Whisky Week and peek behind the scenes with one-off tours and tastings from acclaimed whisky makers (13-19 August).

E WINTER WARMERS Warm your winter by filling the larder and gathering around a fire with a glass of pinot to watch nocturnal wildlife and the Aurora Australis on a Bruny Island Winter Weekend.

F FOODIE ROAD TRIPS Winter calls for long drives peppered with tasting stops – 40 to be exact. The Cradle to Coast Tasting Trail serves up craft beer, gourmet chocolate and smooth wines.

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THE WINTER REVELLER

Nothing gets in the way of your adventures. You embrace the seasons, get outdoors and tackle winter head on.

THE HYGGE HUNTER

J ABSEIL AWAY Abseil the Gordon Dam, from heights greater than the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

Then calm your nerves with a whisky at the nearby Pedder Wilderness Lodge.

The thought of warm throws, outdoor tubs and luxurious abodes sets you packing. You seek moments to draw loved ones near, pull on sweaters and cuddle warm mugs.

G ISLAND ESCAPES On King Island hides a luxury beach house secluded in the dunes with ocean views.

Porky Beach House has a fireplace indoors and an outdoor hot tub and sauna.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

H LODGE LIFE Live the ‘lodge life’ at Freycinet Lodge’s new Coastal Pavilions. Soak up the peace and quiet with a good book, or in the outdoor bath, from your cliff-hugging seaside pod.

I HARBOURSIDE REST Cuddle up on your day bed by a roaring fire in this tranquil cottage and look out from frosted windows over Strahan harbour.

K FOUR-WHEEL FUN Tackle winter head-on off the beaten track, exploring lesser-known bays with an All4Adventure Quad Bike Tour, before warming up by the fire at the local lodge.

L HIT THE TRAILS Head out on one of Tassie’s mountain biking trails in Derby or Maydena and chase it up with a craft beer at a local pub.

gobehindthescenery.com.au

Immerse yourself in the Adelaide Hills

We invite you to join us to climb the Lofty heights and lose yourself, leaving your preconceptions and misconceptions at the city limits.

Immerse is an assortment of experiences created by the winemakers of the Adelaide Hills, a medley of meanderings that take in the width and breadth of this truly diverse wine region.

Don’t forget wine is all about enjoyment, so relax, indulge and immerse yourself in our place – the Adelaide Hills.

adelaidehillswine.com.au

Tour the region’s most proficient curators of sparkling wines and find out why the steeper the slopes, the better the bubbles.

Ever wondered what makes Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc the coolest white wine in Australia?

Learn how the Adelaide Hills pioneered the first South Australian plantings of Austrian white wine grape Grüner Veltliner in 2008 and taste the regional style – citrus, stone fruits and textured minerality.

Be inspired by the new community of youthful growers and makers who are adding another level of personality to the Hills through their rustic cellar doors and earthy, unpretentious artisanal wines.

Discover what’s cool about stylish Adelaide Hills Shiraz – modest alcohol, attractive pepper and spice aromas, fine tannins and delicious length.

Absorb yourself in a century and a half of winemaking – from historic vineyards planted in the 1840s, to the visionary brands established by the modern pioneers of the 1980s and 1990s.

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52 ON THE COVER: Queenstown’s Coronet Peak on the cusp of the season’s first snow PHOTOGRAPHY: Stefan Haworth

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contents JUNE 2018

EXPERIENCE

62

12 I WHAT’S ON 14 I NEWS 19 I #JETSTARAUSTRALIA #JETSTARNZ 20 I MY PLACE Auckland’s star cake maker on the city’s sweetest spots

61-82 I DESTINATION OF THE MONTH From roadtrips to dining in Tropical North Queensland

87 I TRAVEL ON TREND Bye bye backpacking, greetings glampacking

95 I APRÈS-SKI IN NZ 22 I THE SHORTLIST Iconic outback pubs

24 I HOW-TO Leave a small footprint

27 I DRINK UP

102

52 I PHOTO ESSAY Malaysia’s culinary capital

Snap-happy travellers’ shots

Just keep swimming

EXPLORE

The Hong Kong speakeasy proffering soothing tipples

28 I FOOD ICON Head to southern NSW for a piece of the pie

Queenstown beyond the slopes

102 I DIVER’S DELIGHT Indonesia’s underwater world

110 I COOL ART Hobart awakens in winter

120 I ISLE OF PLENTY Phuket: come for the beaches, stay for the food

128 I SOUTHERN CHARM NSW’s Sapphire Coast shines

31 I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE Wellington: the little capital with big appeal

137 I RETAIL THERAPY Top shops in Singapore

176 I BACKPAGE 35 I RECIPE

Tales from row 57

Feed the family covert greens

38 I BEAUTY Gent’s grooming 101

41 I SPA & WELLNESS The NZ spas that hone in on Māori heritage

44 I HEALTH

120

ESSENTIALS 150 I Jetstar news 158 I Where we fly

Axe throwing comes to town

165 I Games and puzzles

48 I WORK AND PLAY

171 I Entertainment

Have you got what it takes to become a guide?

guide

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Adelaide Hills Winter Reds

Find out more at winterreds.com.au

27—29 July 2018

Welcome I GROUP CEO

JETSTAR MAGAZINE is published for Jetstar Airways by Hardie Grant Media Building 1, 658 Church Street Richmond, Victoria, 3121, Australia

Our team makes dreams come true

+61 3 8520 6444 hardiegrantmedia.com

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA For all editorial enquiries, please email JetstarMedia@hardiegrant.com.au Managing Director Nick Hardie-Grant Account Director Tiffany Sayers Managing Editor, Jetstar Simon Tsang Editor Krysia Bonkowski Deputy Editor Chloe Cann Subeditors Leanne Tolra and Diana Baxter Designers Natalie LaChina and Sarah McMillan Picture Editor Janet Gomes

ADVERTISING Sales and Partnerships Director Lauren Casalini +61 3 8520 6710 or email laurencasalini@hardiegrant.com

FOR FLIGHT RESERVATIONS

Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website: jetstar.com FOR HOTEL BOOKINGS & HOLIDAY PACKAGES

To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia, 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts in New Zealand, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels

© Hardie Grant Media. All material in Jetstar Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved.

Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsiblity for the effects arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. All information is correct at press time. MCI (P) 171/01/2015.

Jetstar Magazine is printed by PMP Limited.

Jasper’s letter spread quickly among the Jetstar team

W

hen nine-yearold Jasper Francis wrote to Jetstar ahead of his upcoming flight, he couldn’t have imagined what would happen next.

Jasper and his family are travelling to Bangkok from Melbourne this month, and Jasper had been saving all his pocket money for the business class upgrade he’d always dreamed of, scraping together $85. An aspiring traveller, Jasper studies pictures of aircraft interiors and has memorised every capital city in the world.

Each year, all Jetstar team members receive a $50

voucher to gift to someone of their choice. Jasper’s letter spread quickly among them, and 20 team members pooled their vouchers to provide Jasper his longed-for upgrade.

Unaware of the surprise to come, Jasper was invited to the Jetstar 787 hangar in Melbourne, where he had his own private tour of the 787 aircraft with First Officer Owen North. While Jasper was sitting in the Captain’s seat First Officer North presented him with the business class tickets.

Jasper described the day as a dream come true.

And our crew are looking forward to hosting Jasper in business class on his upcoming flight.

Wherever you’re travelling today, I hope you enjoy your flight.

Gareth Evans Jetstar Group CEO

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M E L B O U R N E T H E AT R E C O M P A N Y

M A K E A DAT E W I T H

M E L B O U R N E ’S H O M E O F T H E AT R E SEE WHAT’S PLAYING

MTC.COM.AU

The big little capital

From cinematic curiosities to charismatic watering holes, discover the best ways to spend a day in NZ’s Wellington on page 31.

PHOTO WELLINGTONNZ.COM

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LIFE I STYLE I PEOPLE I PLACES I NEWS

Experience I WHAT’S ON

June

Stop and smell the wildflowers in WA

Add these fun and fascinating things happening across the Jetstar network to your bucket list this month

Truffle Kerfuffle

22-24 June Manjimup, Western Australia Deep in the Southern Forests of WA every June, a local delicacy takes centre stage. Celebrity chefs take to the helm – dishing up multi-course feasts laced with the hero ingredient – along with regional markets, live music and hunts for the rare fungus: the black truffle. trufflekerfuffle.com.au

Sea & Vines Festival 9-11 June McLaren Vale, South Australia

Marry local food and wine with a ripper coastline and you have the makings of a first-rate festival. The Saturday and Sunday sessions feature masterclasses, carefully curated degustation menus and canapé-filled garden parties presided over by jazz bands and DJs, while the Monday is familyfriendly and free. seaandvines.com.au

LUMA Light Festival

1-4 June Queenstown, New Zealand

Barunga Festival

Emerging Writers’ Festival

Gold Coast Marathon

Every year the population of remote Barunga balloons from a tiny 300 to some 4000, courtesy of this community festival, which shines a spotlight on Indigenous Australian culture through music, sport and the arts. barungafestival.com.au

Comprising a two-day conference (panels, discussions, workshops and networking), plus award ceremonies, a Digital Writers’ Festival and more, this 10-day get-together is nirvana for bookworms and wannabe novelists. emergingwritersfestival.org.au

Aspiring runners and last-minute planners fear not – there’s still time to enter the Gold Coast Marathon. From a 5.7km fun run to a full-blown marathon, there are eight different races to enter, with registration closing on Friday 29 June. goldcoastmarathon.com.au

8-10 June Barunga, Northern Territory

19-29 June Melbourne, Victoria

30 June to 1 July Gold Coast, Queensland

Illuminated art, light sculptures and entertainment take over at this annual festival in the popular ski resort town.

Transforming the Queenstown Gardens and waterfront into a sprawling outdoor gallery, the free event attracts visitors from near and far. luma.nz

PHOTOGRAPHY MARC MANDICA, CHE MCPHERSON, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, ADAM GIBSON, ALAMY

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

Sydney Film Festival

6-17 June Sydney, New South Wales Cinephiles rejoice – more than 250 films (both international and homegrown) will light up big screens across the Harbour City this month, from drive-ins to art gallery screenings and more. Expect premieres, red carpet openings and talks with directors among the festival’s listings. sff.org.au

Matariki Rising Festival

15-24 June Wellington, New Zealand Ushered in by the ascension of the Matariki, or Pleiades, constellation, the Māori New Year is a time to remember the departed and look forward to the future. Wellington’s Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa will mark the beginning of 10 days of waiata (song), haka (dance), panels, events and more with the lighting of a ritual fire and night of open-air storytelling. tepapa.govt.nz

Dark Mofo 6-24 June Hobart, Tasmania

Tasmania descends into festival fever for this annual flagship event. A 10-day bonanza of experimental music, food, art, film and more, Dark Mofo melds the old with the new. Come for the Winter Feast, stay for the Nude Solstice Swim. darkmofo.net.au

It’s a great month to…

FROLIC in the fields of Western Australia. The state has the world’s largest wildflower collection, with more than 12,000 species, which start to bloom in the north this month, moving south.

ACT responsibly, in light of World Environment Day on 5 June and World Oceans Day on 8 June.

DEVOUR everything in sight at Melbourne Good Food Month (think Night Noodle Markets, pop-up restaurants on car park rooftops and intimate brunches with famous chefs). goodfoodmonth.com

ACROSS ASIA

Dragon Boat Festival 18 June Across Asia

A Chinese cultural institution for more than 2000 years, the Duanwu Festival is celebrated across Asia, from Singapore and Hong Kong to Taiwan, Macau and beyond. Aside from the boat racing itself, this festival is brimful of ceremonies, games, local traditions and treats such as zongzi (steamed, sticky rice dumplings).

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Experience I NEWS

THREE OF A KIND

Wild at heart

Three wild experiences in honour of World Environment Day on 5 June Urban oasis

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As the colder months hit New Zealand and southern Australia, many travellers chase the sun and travel north. Whether you’re looking for adventure on a budget or are due a luxury holiday, our network of more than 85 destinations has something for everyone.

In Tropical North Queensland travellers can make the most of the many outdoor activities this popular region has to offer.

Read from page 61 to start exploring.

For more outdoor inspiration, find out why the Gili Islands are dubbed the ‘turtle capital of the world’ on page 102, or check out the incredible sights of New South Wales’ Sapphire Coast on page 128.

Foodies dreaming of fleeing the cold can discover Phuket’s restaurant scene on page 120, while shopaholics can find items to suit any budget in Singapore on page 137.

For those who embrace the cold, Tasmania comes alive with winter arts festivals from June to October, showcasing music, film, writing and food (page 110). Meanwhile Queenstown kicks off the season with four days of local talent, food and all-ages events at the Winter Festival (21-24 June) – uncover more on page 95.

Whether you’re escaping or embracing winter, we wish you safe travels and look forward to having you on board again.

Dean Salter, CEO Jetstar Australia and New Zealand

Critter capers

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Forest spirit

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Echidna Walkabout’s Koalas and Kangaroo day tour lets you spot these iconic critters in the wild, just outside of Melbourne. Led by knowledgeable guides, you’ll go koala-spotting through bushland and watch eastern grey kangaroos graze, keeping an eye out for cameos from feathered and furred guest stars such as the wallaby, echidna and emu. echidnawalkabout.com.au

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Tasmania continues to secure its foothold as one of Australia’s great wilderness destinations with Gordon River Cruises preparing to launch Spirit of the Wild – the most environmentally friendly vessel of its type in Australia. A hybrid engine allows the 180-berth ship to switch to electric when it reaches the fringes of the UNESCO-listed Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area in the island state’s south west, and cruise the waterway in complete silence. gordonrivercruises.com.au

PHOTO ZEALANDIA / STEVE ATTWOOD, DEAN GOLJA

Welcome

In 1995, a 225-hectare property on Wellington’s outskirts was reclaimed for an innovative regeneration project. So far, Zealandia has reintroduced 18 native species such as the shy kiwi, and has led to birds such as the tūī, kākā and kererū returning to the city. To learn about the sanctuary and its precious inhabitants, join the daily, guided tours. visitzealandia.com

Experience I NEWS

FIDO FASHION

JUST OPENED

LEFT TO RIGHT W Brisbane, United Places in Melbourne, Hotel Ravesis overlooking Bondi.

Strike a pose As winter rolls across the Southern Hemisphere, it’s time to pull out the woolly sweaters and down jackets – for your hound. With houses such as Ralph Lauren releasing ‘canine couture’ and doggie runway models at New York Fashion Week, it was only a matter of time before furry fashion hit the mainstream. Dogue, Australia’s largest boutique for your four-legged friends, has now expanded to 10 national locations, along with a doggy spa and country club. Their new winter looks (pictured) include local and international designs, to make your pooch the warmest (and best-dressed) in the park. dogue.com.au

Retro chic

HOTEL HAPPENINGS A flurry of boutique addresses has recently landed on Australia’s shores. In Queensland, two openings are shaking things up: eco-tourism venture Habitat Noosa will unzip its new ensuite glamping tents this month, while in the capital W Brisbane – the first five-star hotel opening in the CBD in 20 years – has just added the finishing touches and is set to welcome its first guests. In Melbourne’s South Yarra, United Places opened at the start of the month, offering Royal Botanic Garden views and personalised butler service – with new restaurant Matilda 159 Domain from respected restaurateur Scott Pickett downstairs. Over in Sydney, the transformed Hotel Ravesis has revealed 12 chic renovated suites, with balcony views of Bondi Beach.

THE ART CROWD

PHOTO DOGUE, QUEEN VIC NIGHT MARKETS, UNITED PLACES / SHARYN CAIRNS

NYC lands Down Under

© Salvador Dalí (Spanish, 1904–1989) The Persistence Of Memory, 1931, oil on canvas, 9 1/2 x 13” (24.1 x 33 cm) The Museum Of Modern Art, New York. given anonymously © 2016 Salvador Dalí, Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation / Artists Rights Society (ars), New York

From Dalí and Cézanne to Pollock and Lichtenstein, tick the greats off your cultural bucket list when the National Gallery of Victoria unveils its 2018 Winter Masterpiece series MoMA at NGV: 130 Years of Modern and Contemporary Art. The New York institution has crated up some of its most significant pieces to grace the walls of the NGV from 9 June to 7 October. The popular NGV Friday Nights will return during the exhibition, along with daily guided tours. ngv.vic.gov.au

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Experience I NEWS

INTERVIEW

MARKET WATCH

INTERVIEW KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

constructed with others. They banged nails, smashed bottles, poked holes and cut up each other’s canvases.

Why do you think it’s still so relevant today?

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An avant-garde art movement from post-war Europe is storming back into the spotlight courtesy of the Museum of Old and New Art (Mona). The ZERO movement, and its obsession with light, motion and abstract thought, is a natural bedfellow for Hobart’s maverick museum. The man largely responsible for the resurgence of these pioneering artists, Mattijs Visser, will act as ZERO Guest Curator for the exhibit. He spoke to us in the lead up to the opening.

What is the ZERO movement?

ZERO was the largest international art movement after the Second World War. It had no leader, no dogma – it was an open club of same-minded artists. ZERO wanted to create a ‘zone of pure possibilities’. The [artists’] interests were fast cars and space travel; one Europe and one universe; science and mechanics; new industrial materials; networks and the masses; and art’s place outside museum walls.

ZERO believed that art was not something to be painfully extracted in solitude, but assembled and

Nowadays art is mainly made by managers to play on the market. ZERO was an experiment; [an attempt] to break down geographical and conceptual borders. ZERO wanted to change the world with art, with their ongoing experiments. The artists from ZERO used their artworks as instruments to communicate.

As Otto Piene – one of the spiritual fathers of ZERO [work pictured below] – said: ‘the only value of art is communication’.

WINTER NIGHT MARKET SEASON BEGINS Winter might be here, but that’s no reason to go into hibernation mode. With crackling fires, mulled wine, roving entertainers and stacks of street food, Melbourne’s annual Queen Victoria Winter Night Market (every Wednesday, from 6 June to 29 August) offers ample excuse to brave the cold. thenightmarket.com.au BELOW: Lighting up winter nights.

RIGHT: Flame-cooked feasts.

Why do you believe Mona will make a good home for the exhibit?

ZERO has always tried to take down borders; they even wanted to go to the moon.

ZERO wanted to bring artists, collectors, critics, writers and scientists together with the public. There is only one museum in the world where they take this mission seriously: Mona. Mona is one ongoing experiment, far away from the art market, and permanently looking for a reset, and to start with ... ZERO! The opening night of ZERO will take place on the preview weekend of Dark Mofo, 9 June, with the exhibit running until 22 April 2019. mona.net.au

NEIGHBOURHOOD SPOTLIGHT

New in Manly A greenery-strewn, three-storey restaurant and rooftop bar – boasting ocean views and led by a troupe of high-profile hospo players – will join Manly’s growing flock of upscale eateries early this month. Offering all-day dining (and drinking) from your morning cappuccino to an espresso martini nightcap, plus woodfired pizzas, grilled surf and turf and more, the Manly Greenhouse is set to become a local institution. Former neighbour Papi Chulo will also reemerge as contemporary Cantonese restaurant Queen Chow this month, while Rockpool Dining Group’s Saké (Japanese cuisine) and Fratelli Fresh (Italian) will breathe new life into the Manly Wharf come August.

PHOTO QUEEN VICTORIA MARKETS, MONA / ZERO FOUNDATION / OTTO PIENE / SAMUELIS BAUMGARTE GALERIE, MANLY GREENHOUSE / KAI LEISHMAN

Q&A with Mattijs Visser

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En route to Auckland

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Are you a snap-happy traveller?

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Every day jetsetters share their adventures with @JetstarAustralia and @JetstarNZ. Here are some of our favourite snaps this month, taken of the ever jaw-dropping New Zealand

Queenstown

@itssagittanovinza

@lisaeatworld

SHARE YOUR JOURNEY Don’t forget to add #JetstarAustralia or #JetstarNZ to your snaps!

Aoraki Mount Cook

Milford Sound

Experience I MY PLACE

THE SWEET SPOT Auckland’s favourite cake maker whips up a list of the city’s top spots WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

J 20

ordan Rondel, aka The Caker, is New Zealand’s answer to baking royalty.

A keen baker from a young age, weaned on the recipes of her French grandparents, Jordan started out with a small blog selling hearty, homespun, pastel-pretty cakes online. The orders flew in, and seven years on Jordan helms a flourishing brand that incorporates custom cakes and cookies made out of The Caker kitchen on Auckland’s ‘K Road’.

She also produces cookbooks and a range of high-end cake mixes, with US expansion on the cards. The Aucklander found her hometown the perfect incubator for her business. “I’ve felt supported in this city since [the beginning],” Jordan says. “I think because it’s such a small place, once people discover something that is good, they talk about it and word spreads like wildfire.” As a born and bred foodie, Jordan

has watched the local dining scene grow with interest. “I’ve always thought Auckland’s food scene was admirable, but nowadays I truly think we have some worldclass eateries that we ought to be so proud of. There’s never a struggle to find somewhere good to eat out.” Here, Jordan shares where you’ll find her when she’s not busy baking up a storm.

Find The Caker at 446 Karangahape Rd, Newton, Auckland, thecaker.co.nz

Experience I MY PLACE

CLOCKWISE: Baked goodness in La Voie Française, virtuous cakes at Little Bird, find venues such as Gogo Daddy in Ponsonby Central.

and fragrant – whatever you do you must start your meal with an entree of Dahi Puri. There are several Satya restaurants dotted around the city and each has its own little quirks.

PHOTOGRAPHY GOGO DADDY, LITTLE BIRD ORGANICS, LA VOIE FRANCAIS, CARLY VAN WINKEL @ FOSSICK AND FORAGE

HAMILTON ROAD BEACH

FOLLOW: @th

ORPHANS KITCHEN

PONSONBY CENTRAL

118 Ponsonby Road, Grey Lynn orphanskitchen.co.nz I love Orphans Kitchen for its intimate and peaceful atmosphere, impeccable service, and excellent food. My favourite meal here is breakfast – I always go for the slow-poached eggs on house-made toast and a milky chai masala tea.

136-146 Ponsonby Road, Ponsonby ponsonbycentral.co.nz Ponsonby Central is a one-stop location for some of the best coffee, eateries and fresh produce in Auckland. I pass through most mornings to grab a coffee from Eighthirty Coffee Roasters, a smoothie from Ceres Organics and lunch from any one of the incredible vendors that are housed there.

KISS KISS 1 Rocklands Avenue, Mount Eden kisskisseatery.com This restaurant offers contemporary Thai food at its best. I love the fact that it’s less central than most of the eateries I go to, because it makes it feel like more of an adventure going there. The interior and atmosphere are awesome, and the fried chicken bun is to die for.

LITTLE BIRD ORGANICS Ponsonby and Britomart littlebirdorganics.co.nz Little Bird is where I go to feel virtuous. Everything here is raw and vegan, and it all tastes incredible. I usually go for a green detox smoothie (which they warn is not for the faint of heart) and the Vietnamese crêpe, which is filled with goodness.

ecaker

Keep up to date with Jordan on Instagram LA VOIE FRANÇAISE Shop 4, 875 Dominion Road, Mount Roskill This unassuming bakery honestly makes the best bread I’ve ever had in New Zealand.

Their baguettes stand up to those you could buy from a true Parisian boulangerie, and their buttery, flaky croissants and pain au chocolat are world-class too.

SATYA Sandringham, Mt Eden and Newton satya.co.nz If you like Indian food, you will love Satya. It’s Southern Indian style cuisine, so it’s light, fresh

There are several little beaches dotted along the Herne Bay coast, but the one at the end of Hamilton Road is my favourite.

It’s best to go at high tide in summer for a heavenly swim, or it’s a glorious spot for fish and chips on the sand in the chillier months.

MADAME GEORGE 490 Karangahape Road, Auckland Central madamegeorge.co.nz This is my go-to spot for an after-work happy hour cocktail.

I always try to get a spot outside so I can enjoy the lively culture of ‘K Road’. The constantly evolving food menu is also worth writing home about.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Auckland from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

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Experience I THE SHORTLIST

5

OF THE BEST

Outback pubs Whether quirky or quaint, these public houses are worth the journey

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2

1.THE PRAIRIE HOTEL

4. DALY WATERS PUB

Parachilna, South Australia prairiehotel.com.au When fourth-generation farming family the Farghers bought their local watering hole in 1991, they turned the historic pub into an outback institution. The kitchen was an early champion of native Australian ingredients, and offers up ‘Feral Foods’ including camel sausages, smoked kangaroo and emu pâté, accompanied by SA wines. In the cooler months, the pub makes an ideal base for hiking, mountain biking or flying over the dramatic Flinders Ranges National Park.

Daly Waters, Northern Territory dalywaterspub.com No one can confirm exactly when women started dangling their bras over the bar at this rough and ready stop-off, a few hundred kilometres south of Darwin on the Stuart Highway.

But by the late ’80s, the collection covered every inch, inside and out, and included everything from thongs to number plates and even a stray helicopter on the roof – perhaps a nod to Daly Waters’ brief stint as Australia’s first international airfield in the ’20s.

2. WHANGAMOMONA HOTEL

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5

Whangamomona, New Zealand whangamomonahotel.co.nz Deep in the rolling countryside along the ‘Forgotten World Highway’, this hotel delivers all the requisites of a good New Zealand pub – cold beer, friendly locals and a healthy dose of wry Kiwi humour. To protest local government shifting district boundaries, the town ‘seceded’ from New Zealand in ’89 and declared itself the Republic of Whangamomona. Drop past to get a stamp in your passport, or organise a visit to coincide with the biennial Republic Day celebrations (next taking place in January 2019).

3 3. BIRDSVILLE HOTEL Birdsville, Queensland birdsvillehotel.com.au Arguably Australia’s most famous rural saloon, the Birdsville Hotel stares out across the great expanse of Munga-Thirri National Park, just shy of the South Australian border. One of the most remote communities in one of the most remote corners of the country, Birdsville has become a place of pilgrimage for tourists seeking a bucket list outback experience – especially during the Big Red Bash in July or the Birdsville Races in September. A cold tinnie at the town’s heritagelisted sandstone pub is mandatory.

5. PUB IN THE PADDOCK Pyengana, Tasmania pubinthepaddocktas. com.au One of the Apple Isle’s oldest regional pubs, this alehouse is nestled in lush pastoral land near the village of Pyengana, population 104. Stop off on your way to St Columba Falls, or the stunning Bay of Fires, for a beverage in the cosy front bar bedecked with memorabilia and photographs of past visitors.

Be sure to wander down to the fields to say hello to Priscilla II and Pinky, the porcine ‘Princesses of the Paddock’.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, FROSAT & SINGING BOWL MEDIA, ALAMY, TOURISM TASMANIA / NICK OSBORNE

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WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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Experience I HOW TO

How to

TREAD

SPF 50+

Minimising your impact on the environment during a holiday is easier than you think WORDS SARAH REID

Choose eco-hotels

Eat local Let’s face it: food tastes better when it’s fresh.

The fewer miles it clocks travelling to your plate, the kinder it is to the environment, too. Opting for locally grown, in-season produce is a double win.

Extra points if it’s organic.

Be kind to wildlife

If you were a wild animal, would you want to spend your days posing for selfies, or being passed around groups? Partaking can even damage your social media credibility, with Instagram now issuing content advisory warnings to users who search for certain wildlife selfie hashtags, Pass on single-use such as #koalaselfie or plastics #elephantride. Observing Would it kill you to order a critters in their natural cocktail without a plastic habitat helps to keep all straw? Nope. But the act parties safe and happy. could save the life of a Go-go gadget turtle. With eight million From solar-powered device tonnes of plastic ending chargers and coral reefup in our oceans every friendly sunscreen to water year, it’s more important purification wands and than ever to rethink compostable crockery, our single-use plastic consumption. Do your bit the rise of green travel has by investing in items such spawned many an ecofriendly accessory. Consider as a reusable water bottle investing for your next trip. and a canvas tote bag.

Opting for sustainable accommodation is one of the easiest ways to tread lightly on the destinations you visit.

What’s more, eco-hotels often come with bonuses such as free bicycle rental, edible gardens, and even rooftop-harvested honey.

ILLUSTRATION STUART HOLMES

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eing mindful of your travel footprint needn’t mean sacrificing fun. By embracing a few simple principles, you can experience everything your destination has to offer while helping to safeguard it for future generations.

Experience I HOW TO

R XT

E AZ

ST

Y

Choose a fair operator It’s not always the cheapest option, but by travelling with tour operators committed to protecting the environment and supporting local communities, you’ll be rewarded in karma credits.

Don’t be a tosser A single piece of litter might not seem like a big deal, but collectively it makes for one big problem. A reported seven billion cigarette butts litter Australia every year.

Wherever you are in the world, make an effort to dispose of rubbish thoughtfully.

Shop wisely Purchasing locally made souvenirs such as textiles is a great way to support the local economy. By avoiding animal products, you can be certain no animals were harmed, plus you will avoid starring in Border Security if you forget to declare them.

Mind where you wee When nature calls in the wilderness, follow the “leave no trace” philosophy by completing your business at least 100m from the closest water body, and burying number twos (and toilet paper) in a hole at least 15cm deep.

Travel Info Fly Carbon Neutral by offsetting your flight next time you book.

To book visit JETSTAR.COM

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Experience I DRINK UP

Milk Tea Punch Hong Kong tea culture meets eggnog ILLUSTRATION TANYA COOPER

Spice is nice Full of spirit

Just a dash

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Gallic glug

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fresh take on a Christmas classic, the Milk Tea Punch at Please Don’t Tell (PDT) fuses Hong Kong heritage with New York know-how. The new speakeasy (open since January) is the first outpost of NYC’s eponymous gonggrabbing bar. It’s concealed behind a phone booth in the uber-swanky Landmark

Time for tea Mandarin Oriental hotel on Hong Kong Island.

Though New York favourites (Benton’s Old Fashioned, Shark and Mezcal Mule) pepper the menu, it’s the creative concoctions peculiar to Hong Kong that rule the roost. This potent punch builds on Hong Kongstyle milk tea and might just be the perfect nightcap.

Milk Tea Punch INGREDIENTS • 30ml black tea (from 2 bags in 240ml water) • 30ml Ron Zacapa Centenario 23 Rum • 30ml Hennessy VSOP Cognac • 15ml condensed milk • 1 Taiyouran egg white (or other high-quality organic egg) • Dash of Angostura Bitters • Whole nutmeg

METHOD Steep tea bags in hot water for 20 minutes. Fine-strain, bottle and refrigerate. Once cold, combine with all of the remaining ingredients in a cocktail shaker, seal tightly, and dry shake to emulsify the egg white. After dry shaking, shake with ice, and finely strain into a chilled fizz glass. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.

Experience I FOOD TREND

Baked to perfection

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THE SOUTHERN Pie-LANDS IT’S NOT ALL UPPER CRUST IN NSW’S SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS – THE NEW FEASTIVAL THAT’S BRINGING TOURISTS TO TOWN

WORDS CHLOE CANN

C

omfort food, portable snack, Aussie icon – the humble pie is also the ultimate crowdpleaser. “There’s a pie for everybody,” says Steve Rosa, manager of Tourism and Events at Destination Southern Highlands, and otherwise known as ‘The Pie Master’.

The universal appeal of the baked dish gave Steve and his team food for thought: in January last year they noticed the region was home

to an abnormally high concentration of bakeries and other pie outlets – more than 30 for a population of 47,000, spread across 17 country towns and villages.

“Every town in Australia has a bakery and every one claims to offer the world’s best pies,” Steve says. “But nobody has the number of bakeries that we have in such a small space. We did some research and found that no one in Australia has [anything similar] apart from Ballarat, where

they have a pie and beer weekend that involves seven local businesses. So we decided we could go one better than that.”

Not only does the region now boast a Pie Trail that visitors can follow year-round, but the team came up with the idea of a month-long ode to the flaky pastry.

Pie Time, held every June, is the jewel in the region’s culinary crown.

Aside from the market stalls and pie cooking demonstrations that comprise the two-day

PieFest, the wider Pie Time celebrations include pie tours in Kombis, army jeeps, trikes, limousines and bicycles, one-off pie and pinot degustation dinners at Chef’s Hatted restaurants, pie cooking classes, paddock to plate experiences with local producers and plenty of local pie specials for the month.

Fine pie-ing Owner/chef of 11-time hatted restaurant Eschalot in Berrima, Richard Kemp didn’t participate in last year’s

PHOTOGRAPHY STONES PATISSERIE, DESTINATION SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS, ARTEMIS WINERY

Experience I FOOD TREND

TOP LEFT: Get down to Stones Patisserie, Bowral, for a slice of the pie. TOP RIGHT: Pedal to pies on a special festival tour. INSET: Demolish your share of the baked goodness.

inaugural event. “We didn’t get involved because we’re a high-end restaurant,” he explains.

But after witnessing first-hand the “good energy” that Pie Time created he was keen to jump on board this year, when approached by the organisers. “We’re doing a seven pie degustation.

It’s something different!” he chuckles. “It’s a bit of a one-off for us.”

Richard’s pie plans extend well beyond the classic steak and mushroom. “We’ll be sourcing pastries and pies from different countries,” he explains.

Lining the special menu are corn, coriander and lime empanadas (Latin America), pirozhki (Eastern Europe) plump with veal and sauerkraut, and a cassoulet pot pie (France) brimful of duck, beetroot and orange.

The degustation menu is matched with all local

The wider Pie Time celebrations include pie tours in Kombis, army jeeps, trikes, limousines and bicycles wines, with pinot varietals taking centre stage.

Bounty of charms Situated 100km southwest of Sydney, on the Great Dividing Range, the Southern Highlands is known as a wine region, with some 17 cellar doors proffering cool climate wines. But the region also boasts drawcards beyond food and wine.

Steve earmarks the Southern Highlands’ heritage (Hillview, the official country residence of the governors of NSW, was built in the 1850s), themed trails (including antiques, books, gardens and more) and naturebased experiences (think bushwalking in national parks, mountain bike tracks and lots of

lookouts) as standout offerings. Yet despite all these attractions – and the region’s close proximity to Sydney – historically, the region hasn’t garnered much attention. “It can be seen as a bit elitist, because a lot of people come into the region on weekends in their BMWs and Audis,” notes Steve. “But it’s not all about resorts and upmarket restaurants.”

That perception looks set to change. Last year, Pie Time enticed 30 per cent more visitors for June than the previous year, including many first-timers. More than 100,000 pies were also baked and sold. It seems the region’s new tourism high is all thanks to the pie.

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Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

24

WELLINGTON

HOURS IN

WELLINGTON Discover a cool new culinary hub, night market, movie magic and much more in the New Zealand capital WORDS TIANA TEMPLEMAN

BREAKFAST Floriditas Floriditas combines Art Deco styling with a dash of Kiwi cool. Channel your inner Goldilocks with a bowl of steaming porridge doused in brown sugar and cream, or get hip with poached eggs, smashed avocado, za’atar and grilled broccolini. Service is as polished as the old station clock above the counter. floriditas.co.nz

MID-MORNING Weta Studios You don’t need to be a fan of The Lord of the Rings to enjoy a Weta Studios Tour. If you’ve ever wondered about the magic behind movie special effects, this tour will answer all of your questions and more. From how to make fake chainmail to creepy creatures with moving faces, this experience is packed with movie magic. There is also a Thunderbirds are Go tour that is ideal for visitors who remember the original show. wetaworkshop.com

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PHOTOGRAPHY FIX & FOGG, WETA WORKSHOP, FLORIDITAS, SIX BARREL SODA, ANNA BRIGGS

LUNCH Hannah’s Laneway Emerging culinary hotspot Hannah’s Laneway offers an intriguing collection of boutique shops, eateries and destination-focused providores in central Wellington. Enjoy a guided tasting and tour at the Wellington Chocolate Factory, a flight of fountain-style sodas at Six Barrel Soda and peanut butter tasting at cute hole-in-the-wall shop Fix & Fogg. If you’re still hungry, slip around the corner to Mr Go’s for delicious dumplings or “hot rocket” prawns.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Fix & Fogg, Weta’s Thunderbirds are Go, meeting Gandalf at Weta, old-school style at Floriditas, refreshment from Six Barrel Soda, Mr Go’s.

Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

Wellington has a bar to suit your every mood 32

DINNER

The Wellington Cable Car The Wellington Cable Car has been operating for more than 100 years, travelling from the CBD to Wellington’s Botanic Gardens offering views over the harbour and beyond. It’s best enjoyed in good weather when you can make the most of the view.

Stroll back to the CBD via the gardens, filled with gracious old trees, flowerbeds and winding paths. wellingtoncablecar.co.nz

Wellington Night Market Wellington has plenty of great restaurants but if you’re in town over the weekend, head to the Wellington Night Market for dinner. Soak up the lively atmosphere, listen to well-known and up-andcoming bands and take a culinary trip around the globe at the food stalls. This night-time hotspot operates on Friday and Saturday nights from 5pm until 11pm. wellingtonnightmarket.co.nz

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Wellington Night Market, Hippopotamus bar at QT, PhotonFlux, Wellington Cable Car.

SLEEP

DRINKS Wellington has a bar to suit every mood. Get your geek on at sci-fi bar PhotonFlux with a Robo Geisha or Romulan Ale cocktail, or step back in time at the Hawthorn Lounge – a 1920s-themed gentleman’s club that also welcomes ladies. With its jewel-bright colours, giltedged glamour and haughty peacocks overlooking the glass-fronted bar, the QT Museum Wellington hotel’s Hippopotamus Cocktail Bar is elegantly quirky. photonflux.space hawthornlounge.co.nz

QT Museum Wellington When you finish at Hippopotamus, take the lift to your room or selfcontained apartment at QT Museum Wellington. Located directly across the road from New Zealand’s premier museum, guests can view the stunning works at Te Papa or wander around the hotel to experience everything from surrealism and sculpture, to shiny Italian racing bikes. qthotelsandresorts.com

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Wellington from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY WELLINGTON TOURISM, PHOTONFLUX, QT MUSEUM HOTEL, WELLINGTONNZ.COM

AFTERNOON

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Taste the best of New Zealand, from top to toe, at these wineries, bars and restaurants

A RURAL RETREAT

Setting a high bar The Arborist Eatery & Rooftop Bar, in Wellington’s Trinity Hotel, serves delicious contemporary New Zealand cuisine from breakfast to dinner. The Rooftop Bar, perched on the 7th floor, is renowned for sublime cocktails and local craft beers, all smack-bang in the heart of the city. thearborist.co.nz

Surrounded by mountain ranges, lakes and a championship golf course, Jack’s Point Restaurant offers a truly unique place to dine. Its menu expresses the very best of the region’s produce. jackspoint.com

Explore an eco-winery EAT, DRINK, SHOP, REPEAT The neighbourhood spot that’s alive with eateries and bars. Grab a fresh smoothie or coffee, have a long lunch in the laneway, or settle by the fire for dinner. The hard part is in the choosing. ponsonbycentral.co.nz

From award-winning wines to New Zealand’s smallest breed of sheep and the largest solar panel installation in the country – come and take a self-guided tour of Yealands’ carbon neutral winery with the White Road Tour smartphone app and see sustainability in action for yourself. yealands.co.nz

Experience I RECIPE

GREEN IS GOOD A FOODIE FAMILY SHARES AN EASY MID-WEEK MEAL .

WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICIA NIVEN

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A real crowd-pleaser Vampire Pesto Pasta from Mr & Mrs Wilkinson’s How it is at Home, by Matt Wilkinson and Sharlee Gibb.

Experience I RECIPE

VAMPIRE PESTO PASTA

J

ust getting a family feed on the table some nights can feel like an accomplishment, let alone a dish that ticks the nutritional boxes and appeals to all palates.

Melbourne foodie couple Matt Wilkinson and Sharlee Gibb recently shared some of their favourite dishes in Mr & Mrs Wilkinson’s How it is at Home – from weeknight regulars to entertaining all-stars.

Matt Wilkinson helms popular Melbourne eatery Pope Joan, where garden beds with tumbling vines and leafy greens point to the

kitchen’s seasonal focus.

His wife Sharlee Gibbs runs event company curateEAT and Fully Booked – a community group for women in hospitality. With young boys Finn and Jay in tow, it adds up to a flat-chat schedule many parents can relate to.

In honour of world Eat Your Vegetables Day (17 June), we asked Sharlee her advice for time-poor parents wanting to integrate more vegetables into meal time while wrangling picky eaters.

“Our boys are fussy eaters, they eat with their eyes,” she says.

INGREDIENTS VAMPIRE PESTO PASTA • 300g linguine • ½ broccoli head, cut into florets (optional) • 1 handful green beans, trimmed (optional) • Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve • Vampire pesto (see below for recipe)

VAMPIRE PESTO • 3 tbsp cashew nuts • 1 tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted • 1 bunch basil, leaves only • 40g Parmesan cheese, grated • Pinch of salt flakes • Squeeze of lemon juice • 60ml (¼ cup) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to cover METHOD To make the pesto, blitz all the ingredients together in a food processor to a rough paste. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice if desired.

Cook the pasta in a saucepan of boiling water according to the packet instructions until al dente, adding the broccoli florets and green beans, if using, to the pasta water for the last few minutes. Drain and return to the pan, then toss through half the pesto. Divide among bowls and sprinkle over some grated Parmesan to finish.

TIP

Mr & Mrs Wilkinson’s How it is at Home, RRP $49.99 Matt and Sharlee will appear at the Melbourne Good Food & Wine Show (1-3 June) to share their top date-night dishes. goodfoodshow.com.au

Spoon the excess pesto into an airtight container, cover the surface with the extra oil and keep in the fridge for up to one week. At the end of summer I like to scale this recipe up and make it with the last basil of the season, dividing it into portions, freezing it (it’ll keep for six months) and defrosting as needed.

PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICIA NIVEN

36

“We dish up the same meals for everyone so they are eating adult meals rather than kids’ meals, and we make sure they at least try everything on their plate. Their palates will grow as they grow.”

Sharlee doesn’t hide the vegetables in her kids’ meals, but instead uses their colours and textures to enhance comfort food such as risotto, muffins or pies.

Matt and Sharlee’s Vampire Pesto is a true crowd-pleaser. “This garlic-free version is good for both vampires and the boys, who – despite saying they don’t like green stuff on their plates – for some reason devour pesto pasta,” Sharlee says.

Sharlee also suggests adding beans and broccoli to this classic vegetarian dish, for a quick and easy dinner full of the good stuff.

Paradise Resort Gold Coast is renowned as Heaven for Kids and a Paradise for Parents!

Where every accommodation package includes up to 4 hours of supervised care for every child 0-12years per day in the famous Zone 4 Kids Club,

FREE KIDS CLUB SESSIONS WITH EVERY PACKAGE valued at $40each. The Zone 4 Kids Club is fully supervised which allows parents time to escape the daily routine and indulge in some holiday sightseeing or precious down time. There is also a giant Kids Water Park right in the centre of the resort, an indoor and outdoor playground, a permanent ice-skating rink

plus a whole range of free daily activities and entertainment.

And while the kids are looked after parents can rediscover the art of relaxation in the exclusive Zone 4 Adults. The outdoor spa area features a large heated spa and lounge chairs offering parents a place to unwind and soak up the sunshine ‘child free'.

Complete with the lagoon pool and spa, gym, bistro, cafe and bar Paradise Resort is the perfect choice for your next family holiday.

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Experience I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

The pampered man The coiffed and perfumed new breed of male-focused grooming spas and salons WORDS PETER BARRETT

Expert advice

BEARD MAINTENANCE Josh Mihan takes facial hair so seriously that his Melbourne salon, The Bearded Man, specialises in it. Here are his four tips.

A close shave in Mankind salon.

I

care about how I look but, as a father of three kids, I tend to regard hitting the streets showered and deodorised as a major win.

Meanwhile, the men’s grooming boom (forecast to help Australia’s hairdressing and beauty industry grow by $400m by 2023 – according to a recent IBISWorld report), means that when I emerge from the fog of parenthood I’ll have a smorgasbord of male-focused salons to choose from.

Time to see what’s out there After a cold beer in the front bar of Melbourne’s

Manhor salon with its friendly (and extremely well-groomed) owner Rob Gauci, I’m led to a treatment room to experience a 45-minute, personalised facial ($85).

My therapist, Nadia, uses various creams and ointments to remove dirt and grime, along with something called a ‘dermabrasion vacuum’ (a little suction device with rough edges) to remove dead skin and other unspeakable gunk.

Afterwards, I trot home vowing to adhere to a daily cleansing ritual. My skin does, I think, look and feel better.

In Sydney, Paul Anderson started his salon Mankind in 2004, when ‘metrosexual’ was the buzzword of choice.

Since then, he says his business has grown from seeing 300 guys a month, with an emphasis on facials and waxing, to seeing 700. “It’s become a lot more advanced. Even ingredient-wise, just over the last 13 years, products have come a long way.”

And in Brisbane, Anthony Saba, owner of award-winning salon Archon, says while guys are spending more time on high tech treatments such as laser hair removal

1. Always dry your beard properly with a towel after showering to avoid skin drying out and irritation.

2. Grow a beard to suit your face (pointy beards don’t work well on long, oval faces, for example).

3. Trim your neckline no higher than the crease in your neck, or an inch above your Adam’s apple.

4. Wash, condition, oil, trim and fine-comb your beard regularly to promote growth, health and vibrancy.

5. Try to see a barber once a month. beardedman.com.au

and micro-needling (look it up if you dare) he recommends looking at the big picture of exercise and lifestyle, as well as skincare.

“Because you can’t just do one thing and expect it to be a quick fix,” he says.

PHOTOGRAPHY MANKIND / LIANE HURVITZ

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Experience I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

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GROOMING ESSENTIALS FOR GENTS 1. HUNTER LAB Daily Face Fuel, $49, hunterlab.com.au 2. AB CREW Caffeine Shampoo, $45, abcrew.co 3. URBANE MESS Beard Maintenance Kit, $15, woolworths.com.au 4. SOLID STATE Journeyman Cologne, $39.95, solidstateformen.com 5. TRIUMPH & DISASTER Old Fashioned Shave Cream, NZ $33, triumphanddisaster.com 6. REDKEN BREWS Beard and Skin Oil, $35.95, redken.com 7. TRIUMPH & DISASTER Frank The Dopp Toiletries Bag, NZ $149.50, triumphanddisaster.com 8. KING BROWN POMADE Tort Handle Comb, $5, kingbrownpomade.com 9. UPPERCUT DELUXE Matt Clay, $28, uppercutdeluxe.com

Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

A wellspring of healing Traditional Māori massage is deep, intense and calming

Soak away your cares in a hot spring postmassage. ABOVE: Take the waters at Wairakei.

WORDS BELINDA LUKSIC

PHOTOGRAPHY WAIRAKEI TERRACES AND THERMAL HEALTH SPA

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s a wellness writer, I know my way around a spa menu. I’ve tried shiatsu, ayurvedic, Swedish and Thai massage. I’ve experienced crystal bed therapy, reiki and acupuncture. But until now, I had never received a traditional Māori massage.

This is why I find myself standing nose to nose, touching foreheads – the traditional hongi greeting – with Renee, the masseuse at Wairakei Terraces and Thermal Health Spa in Taupō.

The adults-only Māoriowned hot spring on New Zealand’s North Island is one of the few places in

town to experience the massage – with the added bonus of a post-massage soak in one of three silicarich hot thermal springs.

For centuries, Māori healers have practiced romiromi – an intense form of massage that includes deep-tissue work and a focus on pressure points, helping to release blocked energy, bring about balance and encourage deep spiritual healing. The gentler, oil-based therapeutic massage mirimiri is another form of traditional Māori healing.

The techniques have been passed down through generations to those with healing hands.

The technique has been passed down through generations

The esoteric and onceoutlawed practice taps into whatumanawa – the spiritual dimension – to integrate and engender change.

My Māori massage begins with the karakia, a beautiful incantation that invokes spiritual guidance and protection.

“It’s an invitation to our ancestors to join us in the room for the healing,” Renee says.

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Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

The magic touch

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The hut of healing, blissing out in safe hands, surreal geothermal scenery.

42 to another karakia, this time sung to close my energy fields and wave the ancestors from the room.

Having spent a night googling other people’s illuminating experiences, I had hoped for a more cataclysmic release – a torrent of tears perhaps, or a flash of white light.

But as yet, nothing so profound has occurred.

I don the spa robe and follow the garden path to the springs – a large figure-eight-shaped pool spanned by an arched bridge, with two smaller adjoining pools. As I take to the steaming waters I notice, for the first time, my focused and blissedout state. There might be something in this healing after all.

Try it yourself

I notice, for the first time, my focused and blissed-out state

Wairakei Terraces offers holistic Māori massage starting at NZD $115.

Hot springs access is NZD $25 per person. wairakeiterraces.co.nz

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Auckland and car-hire packages.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY WAIRAKEI TERRACES AND THERMAL HEALTH SPA

Given our location, I’m inclined to believe. Set among tropical gardens, the massages at Wairakei Terraces take place in a traditional meeting house, a tiny red and white hut with a sacred totem pole at its entrance and ancient carvings on its walls.

The one-hour massage combines the long, sweeping strokes of murimuri with the deeply penetrating shiatsu-like pressure of romiromi.

At one point, Renee speaks in a low chant near my ear. And later, she presses a pebble into each of my upturned palms. I dutifully breathe into my heart chakra as instructed.

Eventually, I drift off to sleep – awoken at the end

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Experience I HEALTH

A whole new ballgame Heed the call of the wild in central Melbourne at a new venue dedicated to a medieval sport WORDS CHLOE CANN

Try it here full-time as a Qantas pilot) was introduced to the pastime by a friend while on secondment in Canada in 2010. “When I first heard about it my reaction to the whole thing was, ‘Sorry, what do you do?’” he says. But curious, Stephen went to see what all the fuss was about.

He wound up becoming a regular at Tuesday night sessions in a back-alley warehouse, where a crosssection of folks would come together to throw axes competetively. Of the appeal, he explains: “It was a good group of people that wouldn’t be hanging out otherwise – a couple of lawyers, a couple of bikies, local

shop owners. The reason why it’s so popular now is that it’s back to basics – there’s nothing high tech or complicated about it.

It’s good simple fun and everyone leaves with a big grin on their face.”

All proceedings are overseen by a member of staff, and our ringmaster, Jerome, thrives in his role of ringing in the scores and entertaining everyone during the safety briefing with oneliners (“I know you wanna touch it and see how sharp it is – but don’t”).

Axe throwing, we learn, revolves around skill not strength, so even those with feeble physiques can triumph at this medieval

Find Maniax at 19/21 Russell St, Abbotsford, Melbourne, and 01/75 Mary St, St Peters, Sydney. maniax.com.au

sport. Stephen calls it an alternative to lawn bowls (albeit a game that involves using muscles you didn’t know you possessed) and says it’s popular for any occasion – birthdays, hen parties, corporate days out.

And with further venues on the cards, it won’t be long until more Aussies are invited to ‘bury the hatchet’. “We’re looking at Brisbane and Adelaide next and might even expand into NZ,” says Stephen. “We want to bring axe throwing to the masses.”

PHOTOGRAPHY MANIAX

44

“IT’S JUST LIKE GOLF,” says Jerome as I gingerly approach the red line on the floor, ready to face down my opponent while wielding my newfound weapon. We’re in a converted warehouse in the central Melbourne suburb of Abbotsford, but the distinct ‘eau de log cabin’ (it smells like I’ve just walked into Christmas) and the abundance of timber hints at an altogether more rural location. It is the furthest thing from golf I can imagine.

The lumberjack equivalent of a batting cage, Maniax is Melbourne’s newest answer to team building/ letting off steam/working out/socialising/enjoying some good clean fun.

Groups of up to 15 (‘the more the merrier’ is the company’s mantra) make themselves at home in the rather roomy cages, hemmed in on either side with wire mesh and housing two wood target boards – which we’re to aim at with our axes.

“You get a lot of ‘WTF?!’ when you mention it,” says Stephen Thomas, laughing. He co-founded the Melbourne venue in March, following on from the Sydney arm, which opened in late 2015.

Stephen (who also works

Are Your Hormones Making You Fat? Imagine waking up every morning to the sound of your alarm, excited and happy to be starting a new day. When you look in the mirror you admire your body. Everyone tells you how great you’re looking. Sound too good to be true? If you, like many other women, don’t feel this way, you may have a hormonal imbalance. Research has documented that over 40 per cent of women have an undiagnosed underactive thyroid gland. If you feel tired all the time, crave sugar, use alcohol and coffee to lift yourself, retain weight around your middle and feel the cold, you could be suffering from this problem.

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

Walk on the

wild side

Adventure tourism is a journey of learning for guides and tourists alike WORDS LEANNE TOLRA

Scenic views of Lake Pedder in Tasmania’s Southwest National Park on a Wild Pedder adventure.

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The area is deemed the most significant wilderness on earth How long have you been running Wild Pedder?

We started the business three years ago now, but spent the first 12 months setting up. There was a lot of legwork to obtain licences, permits and insurance, and get everything in place.

Who do your trips appeal to?

Our trips are for people who don’t normally like tours. We venture to places a normal tour couldn’t – or wouldn’t – consider.

With wilderness coming under more and more

pressure, these places are becoming so important.

What have you learned?

We’ve learned not to take on too much and have established a key set of values that stop us from losing track.

Any ‘failures’ have been learning experiences and taught us that financial gains are not at the core of our decision making. We believe that people don’t buy what you do; they buy why you do it.

Find the Wild Pedder office at 3/64 Warwick Street, Hobart wildpedder.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CRERAR, BALI ROAD BIKE, MATE’S ESCAPES, BAREFOOT SAILING ADVENTURES

What skills does a guide need?

Being a leader, geologist, botanist, driver, photographer, first-aid officer, coach, kayak instructor and psychologist is all in a day’s work. But within all of these roles comes great understanding and relationships with our guests. We take them through billions of years What is Wild Pedder? of geological history, walk Wild Pedder offers hiking among the tallest trees trips for groups of up to in Australia, traverse eight in the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage jagged mountain ranges region around Lake Pedder. and kayak in the tanninstained waters of the most Our trips are based out incredible freshwater of the Pedder Wilderness lake in the country. The Lodge. The Pedder area is deemed the most Experience itinerary includes moderate to hard significant wilderness on earth, according to walks of up to 16kms daily and requires a base level of UNESCO’s criteria for World Heritage. fitness.

VICTORIAN NATIVE Cody McCracken and Tasmanian-born Louis Balcombe set up their high-end wilderness adventure company Wild Pedder in 2016, going on to win a silver medal in the new business category of the Tasmanian Tourism Awards last year. We spoke to Cody about the guiding life.

Experience I WORK & PLAY

No substitute for research

ESCAPE THE ORDINARY WITH THESE TRAVELS PROS

1

2. FUN WITH FRIENDS Mates’ Escapes is a threeyear-old business run by travel junkie Paul Schultz offering customised getaways to groups of men, women, couples or corporates. The ‘mates’ choose their escapes – motor-racing events, golfing, skiing, mountain biking, trekking or fishing trips — and Mates’ Escapes takes care of the rest. Regional horseracing events are popular, such as the Darwin Cup Carnival and the Cox Plate Carnival in Melbourne. matesescapes.com.au

3

1. ROADS LESS TRAVELLED Away from the bustle of Bali’s tourist hotspots, there are long, quiet roads that run through quaint villages and past rice fields, beaches, mountains and temples. It’s road-cyclist heaven. Yudi Astiari and her husband Stefano Facchini run Bali Road Bike, creating bespoke tours for recreational cyclists and hard-core amateurs, offering routes from 60kms to 240kms along flat or mountainous terrain. Quality road bikes are available for hire, or bring your own. baliroadbike.com

Savvy tour operators should always have a back-up plan Pat Fitzpatrick and his wife Grace Mimmo have been hosting cycling trips for more than a decade.

Their annual January tours follow the professional international road-cycling event Tour Down Under in Adelaide. Grace manages logistics and Pat is the cycling guide and tour leader.

The couple are set to expand their business this year, hosting trips across Australia, South East Asia and New Zealand. They offer three tips for success:

1. Go before you show

2 3. ALL AT SEA Northland local Rachael Biggins traded the salon for the stern when she gave up a hairdressing career to train as a skipper on sailing charters.

Teaming up with experienced sailor ‘Captain Luke’, they launched Barefoot Sailing Adventures into New Zealand’s stunning Bay of Islands in summer 2016. Their popular day trips navigate the 140-plus islands on the refitted 33ft catamaran Kopiko, with no more than 16 people on board at a time, as well as the option of private charter. barefootsailing.co.nz

The very first overseas job we went for cost us all of our savings.

We travelled to all the locations on the itinerary, ate at all the restaurants and researched all of the cycling routes before applying. We got the job and learned there is no substitute for physically following an itinerary.

2. Don’t rely on gadgets Modern technology can provide great background material — such as apps that pinpoint great coffee, cafés or restaurants and GPS maps. But when technology lets you down, there is nothing like having a back-up plan and a good, old-fashioned paper map.

3. Learn from locals We learn useful phrases each time we go to a new country, but we believe in hiring local experts.

It gives something back and, in the case of an emergency, it is important to have someone on hand who can converse with the local authorities. rideinternationaltours.cc

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Explore I INTERVIEW

The water’s fine

PHOTOGRAPHY ROOS MICHELS

Explore the vibrant underwater world and meet the curious critters in the waters around the Gili Islands, Indonesia. Dive in on page 102.

I can see you QUEENSTOWN I HOBART I SINGAPORE I AND MORE

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52

The former mining town that’s struck foodie gold – photographer Mark Parren Taylor finds plenty of flavour in Ipoh, Perak state

Gourmet Malay

MALAYSIA I IPOH

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54

Ipoh’s crowning glory (left to right) Washing beansprouts at Menglembu Market.

Siput sedut (sea snails) cooked in a spicy coconut broth.

The Royal Palace Museum in Kuala Kangsar, less than an hour’s drive north of Ipoh.

55

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Perak in pictures The chef and host of a Perak homestay (right).

Ipoh street-food hub Jalan Yau Tet Shin (left).

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Explore I MALAYSIA

Culinary capital

MAL AYSIA

Photographer Mark Parren Taylor extols the virtues of Malaysia’s third-largest city

Ipoh MALAYSIA

WORDS CHLOE CANN

S

KUALA LUMPUR

About the photographer

Ipoh is very much on the way to becoming a hipster enclave KL at weekends just for a plate of food. The city is renowned for its tauge ayam (beansprout chicken) and salt-baked chicken; noodles such as chee cheong fun (steamed rice noodle rolls), kai see hor fun (flat rice-noodle soup with shredded chicken) and curry mee (curried noodle soup); and desserts such as tau fu fa (soybean pudding) and egg custard.

“The Chinese heritage means there’s great dim sum and the south Asian community brings superb chapati and banana leaf rice. Add to that street

stalls for late-night roti and little Malay shops serving unbeatable breakfast nasi lemak (a fragrant rice dish).”

Formerly a British outpost, Ipoh was a boomtown in the mid1900s, thanks to its large reserves of tin. But when the market crashed in the ’80s, so did the fortunes of this north-western city.

Change, however, is afoot, says Mark: “It’s a place of spot-on street art, good coffee and ontrend little boutiques and chichi little hotels. It’s a city that is firmly in the present.”

London-based photojournalist Mark Parren Taylor has a focus on food and travel, and has worked for international magazines the world over. This month his travels took him to Ipoh: “where Malaysians go to chow down.” mptphoto.com

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Malaysia from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY MARK PARREN TAYLOR

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urrounded by jagged limestone karst mountains, starring a burgeoning street-art scene and café culture, and home to a litany of local dishes famous nationwide, it’s a wonder the Malaysian city of Ipoh has managed to stay under wraps.

“Ipoh is very much on the way to becoming a hipster enclave,” says Mark Parren Taylor, who has traversed Peninsular Malaysia “from top to toe”. The photographer was introduced to the city through foodie friends who reside in Malaysia’s capital, Kuala Lumpur (KL), and often find themselves destination dining. Situated snugly between the country’s two tourism heavyweights (Georgetown, Penang, 160km northwest of Ipoh; and KL, 206km southeast) the capital of Perak state is not only easy to reach but also a gateway to the Cameron Highlands and the nearby historic royal town Kuala Kangsar.

“It was only a matter of time before I ended up in the city that seemed to be at the epicentre of Malaysian cooking,” Mark explains. “People head up to Ipoh from

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DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

Cairns

Tropical North Queensland

QUEENSLAND Brisbane

Contents

62 I HAPPY

CAMPERS

Rove from reef to rainforest 61

71 I DINING DESTINATION Port Douglas is good enough to eat

79 I BE-SPOKE

ADVENTURE

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND

Find thrills and spills biking in TNQ

EXPLORE I TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND

Cape Tribulation Port Douglas CAIRNS Atherton Tablelands

Camp tropicana 62

DISCOVER THE HOTTEST PLACES TO SET UP CAMP IN TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND WORDS SIMON TSANG

CLOCKWISE FROM PICTURED: Snorkelling off the Port Douglas coast, early mornings on the beach in TNQ, wallow in Mossman Gorge, pristine rainforest at Paronella Park, Malanda Falls, Daintree Discovery Centre. OPPOSITE: Millaa Millaa Falls on the Waterfalls Circuit.

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PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, SIMON TSANG

Getting there

Jetstar flies to Cairns, less than a three-hour drive from Cape Tribulation. Allow time for Daintree River ferry crossings, particularly in peak season.

Explore I TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND

I

Cape Tribulation calls Captain Cook didn’t have a great time here (hence the name), but it’s hard not to fall for the spectacular coastline hugging the World Heritage-listed Daintree rainforest.

Cape Tribulation is about two and a half hours’ drive north of Cairns and involves a car-ferry crossing at the Daintree River. Stop off at the famous Mossman Gorge on the way up for a dip in the pristine river and hike through the national park.

TOP TO BOTTOM: Off-road made easy with Bear Rentals, rainforest meets reef at Cape Trib, coconuts for the taking on Myall Beach.

the one activity at the top of all our lists: snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef

Then continue north and pitch your tent at Cape Trib Camping – a spacious campground next to Myall Beach. There are two large undercover camp kitchens with full cooking facilities and dining areas.

You may not bother to use one, however, as on-site café the Sand Bar serves up some of the best woodfired pizzas you’ll taste anywhere. Needless to say, we didn’t cook during our stay and couldn’t wait for dinner time to roll around.

There are plenty of soft-adventure activities in the area, plus others on the firmer side. We only had a couple of nights, so we picked the one activity at the top of all our lists: snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef.

Just 25 minutes away from the outer reef by boat, Cape Tribulation has earned the catchy slogan ‘where the rainforest meets the reef’.

Ocean Safari launches its boats

PHOTOGRAPHY SIMON TSANG, TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND

64

get it. Not everyone is into camping. I’m hardly a start-a-fire-with-two-sticks kind of guy myself. I love the great outdoors, but have always preferred accommodation I don’t have to assemble.

And then there’s all the equipment you need, including the kitchen sink. So, while I didn’t hate the idea of camping, I didn’t exactly go looking for it either.

One thing changed it for me, however. Okay, two things: Tropical North Queensland and a company called Bear Rentals.

The former promises some of the best campgrounds and facilities in the country, and the latter specialises in fully-equipped, fourwheel drive hire in locations across Australia, so you don’t have to bring your own gear.

Bear Rentals’ Land Rover Defenders have been specially customised to create the ultimate camping vehicles: roof-mounted tents, fridges that run 24/7, water tanks with a pump ... you name it, the 4WDs have it. Just fly to Cairns with the clothes you need, pick up the 4WD, drop by a supermarket for some groceries and head to the first campsite.

Whether renting gear or bringing your own, here are the top places to visit on a camping holiday in Tropical North Queensland.

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Explore I TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND

Plentiful rain in the area means there are a lot of waterfalls to explore

The Atherton Tablelands.

INSET: Daintree Discovery Centre.

TOP: Ellinjaa Falls.

Atherton Tablelands experiences This lush region, located in the heart of Tropical North Queensland, deserves much more than a quick drive-by. Spend at least a couple of days here to fully immerse yourself in the spectacular natural beauty of this plateau area with its own distinct climate.

Plentiful rain in the area means there are a lot of waterfalls to explore, so it’s no surprise that

one of the Atherton Tableland’s most famous attractions is the Waterfalls Circuit.

The 13km-loop road takes in some of the most photographed waterfalls in Australia, including Millaa Millaa, Zillie and Ellinjaa Falls. Go for a swim in Millaa Millaa Falls, where there are also picnic and change room facilities, and don’t forget to stop by Millaa Millaa Lookout to enjoy the panoramic views of the area.

PHOTOGRAPHY SIMON TSANG, TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND

66

straight from Myall Beach, and if you’re lucky you’ll get a whale watching tour on the way.

We were lucky indeed. It took a little longer to reach our snorkel spot as several whales were spotted breaching as we headed out.

Nobody on the boat seemed to mind the short detour.

Luck played its part again when we arrived at the reef to find two turtles swimming by just as we were entering the water. If you’ve ever wanted to snorkel the Great Barrier Reef, this is the place to do it.

Cape Tribulation also marks the start of the Bloomfield Track – a scenic 4WD track that leads north to Cooktown. The Land Rover was perfectly suited to the unsealed road, but being on a tight schedule, we had to turn around and head back south, stopping by the Daintree Discovery Centre on the way. Here, you can learn about this prehistoric rainforest (complete with animatronic dinosaurs dotted throughout the centre) as you stroll along the elevated walkways.

Don’t forget to grab an ice cream at the Daintree Ice Cream Co. before leaving. The ice cream is made using fruit from the on-site orchard.

It’s as fresh as it gets.

Cristiano Ronaldo Š2018 Samsonite IP Holdings S.à r.l. All Rights Reserved. Printed on 01/2018.

Explore I TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND

No-fuss camping

Fast facts WHEN TO GO:

68

We based ourselves in the excellent Malanda Falls Caravan Park after discovering it entirely by chance. Situated next to its namesake waterfall, the beautiful campground is surrounded by great bushwalking trails and even has a small petting zoo.

While in the Tablelands region, go for a hike down to the cascading tiers of Dinner Falls and check out the deep crater left behind by a massive volcanic gas explosion.

Volcanic activity also had a hand in forming the tranquil Lake Eacham in Crater Lakes National Park, where you can go for a picnic on the banks and take a dip in its clear waters.

Set aside a day (and night) to visit Paronella Park – a privately-owned … um, castle? The place is truly one of a kind, built next to Mena Creek Falls by a Spanish immigrant named José Paronella, who made his fortune buying and selling sugar cane farms.

Paronella was built in the style of the Catalonian castles he remembered from his childhood, and the ruins of the buildings and

landscaped gardens are still a sight to behold today.

The entrance fee to the park includes camping in the grounds.

It’s worth staying just to take a night tour of the park and view the castle and gardens all lit up.

Pleasures of Port Douglas No visit to Tropical North Queensland is complete without visiting the popular holiday town of Port Douglas. We planned our journey to finish here as a way of treating ourselves to a bit of luxury, and to ease back into civilisation after more than a week of roughing it in tents.

The recently renovated Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort proved the perfect spot to wrap up our adventure. Its sizeable lagoon pools and beachside location were a hit with the kids, and the resort is only a short drive to Port Douglas’ main shopping and restaurant strip – the perfect finish to a nofuss week.

Simon Tsang was a guest of Bear Rentals and Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort, Port Douglas.

WHERE TO STAY: Bear Rentals bearrentals.com.au Cape Trib Camping capetribcamping.com.au Malanda Falls Caravan Park malandafalls.com.au Paronella Park paronellapark.com.au Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort sheratongrandmirage portdouglas.com

WHAT TO DO: Ocean Safari oceansafari.com.au Daintree Discovery Centre discoverthedaintree.com Daintree Ice Cream Co. daintreeicecream.com.au Atherton Tablelands athertontablelands.com.au Port Douglas visitportdouglasdaintree. com

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Cairns from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY SIMON TSANG, SHERATON GRAND MIRAGE RESORT

Home for the night at Malanda Falls Caravan Park. INSET: Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort, Port Douglas.

Tropical North Queensland’s rainy season runs from November to April and stingers are in the water from October to March, so mid-year, during the winter season, is the best time to go.

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The Beaches, Funnel Bay is the Whitsundays’ last beachfront opportunity to be enjoyed by a select few.

Only 4 beachfront lots remain (between 1450m2 and 2200m2 each).

1300 773 7653 | live@funnelbay.com.au | thebeachesfunnelbay.com.au

Explore I PORT DOUGLAS

PORT TO PLATE

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THE LAID-BACK TOWN OF PORT DOUGLAS IS RAPIDLY ESTABLISHING ITSELF AS THE FOODIE HEARTLAND OF TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND WORDS NATASCHA MIROSCH

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Roaming the mangroves and mudflats for crabs, coconut panna cotta at Watergate Restaurant, find tropical mangoes on Brett’s tasting tour.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM QUEENSLAND

Experience la dolce vita

Explore I PORT DOUGLAS

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There are more than 40 restaurants and cafés in town for your fix of seafood pork and beef to coffee, vegetables, cheese and farmed freshwater fish, with much of the produce finding its way into local restaurants.

Stops on Brett’s tour include an Atherton Tablelands fruit winery, distillery, Indigenous centre with damper and tropical fruit jams, coffee plantation and cheesemaker.

Equidistant from Port Douglas is the Daintree Rainforest, where exotic tropical fruits like black sapote ‘chocolate pudding fruit’, jaboticaba and breadfruit grow, as well as tea and vanilla plantations in its surrounds. It’s also here that a new industry, cocoa farming, has been established, the heavy pods processed and used in Australia’s only domestically made chocolate.

With the reef just 15 minutes away by boat, seafood naturally gets high billing in Port. Handwritten signs advise when trawlers are scheduled to pull into the marina, and locals line up early for first dibs on the freshest catch. If an early morning doesn’t appeal, there are more than 40 restaurants and cafés in town for your fix of seafood; from city-smart degustations to a simple bucket of prawns.

Five years ago, Spencer Patrick and his wife Reina decided all this nature-blessed bounty deserved recognition and created the annual Taste Port Douglas Food and Wine Festival.

Held over 15-16 September this

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND, BRETT’S OUTBACK TASTING TOUR, HARRISONS RESTAURANT, SALSA BAR & GRILL, JIMMY RUM’S

F

ish and chips may be a British institution, but chef Spencer Patrick has adapted his birthplace’s culinary traditions to those of his adopted home like a true believer. ‘Harry’s fish and chips’ – in-season reef fish cooked in paperbark with taro chips – is a favourite on the menu at his restaurant Harrisons by Spencer Patrick and couldn’t be more ‘Tropical North Queensland.’ The UK-born, Michelin-trained chef, who discovered Port Douglas a decade ago and never left, says the local food scene was less than inspiring until recently.

“Ten years ago, when we arrived, Port Douglas was a little sleepier than it is today. The scene has definitely changed with all the restaurants, bars, pubs and resorts raising their game to a national and cosmopolitan standard,” he says.

With homegrown and incoming chef talent, an abundance of unique produce and an influx of local investment, Port Douglas is now stamping its name as a worthy gastronomic destination.

Brett Cameron started showcasing the region’s produce to hungry tourists four years ago.

“When we first started food tours, guests tended to be repeat visitors to Port looking for something they hadn’t done before, but now it’s first-timers because suddenly everyone’s incredibly interested in food,” he says.

Brett’s Outback Tasting Tour takes in the verdant Atherton Tablelands region, 90 minutes south-west of Port Douglas. With its varied topography, including a cooler tropical climate and savannah grasslands, the region supports everything from dairy,

Explore I PORT DOUGLAS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Taste Port Douglas Food & Wine Festival, treats at Gallo Dairyland, tea grows near the Daintree, an honesty box at Nucifora Tea Plantation, speakeasy vibes at Jimmy Rum’s, the interior at Harrisons, a mean espresso martini at Salsa Bar & Grill, find tropical fruit on Brett’s tasting tour, Mt Uncle Distillery.

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Explore I PORT DOUGLAS

Beers on the marina

Stop by the Port Douglas Marina for incredible vistas come sunset. INSET: Quaff craft brews at newcomer Hemingway’s.

year, Taste transforms the town with a packed program of dinners, tastings, chef demonstrations and masterclasses.

“It’s organically evolved from a small afternoon soiree showcasing local chefs and produce to a nationally renowned event and the culinary highlight of the region,” says Spencer.

“With the help of celebrity chefs and media from around the country we’re championing Port Douglas and putting it on the pedestal it deserves.”

Take a bite of Port At Harrisons by Spencer Patrick at the recently refurbished Sheraton Grand Mirage, Spencer’s menu is a nod to his roots, with classic British dishes reinterpreted with a tropical Queensland bent. Sounds unlikely, but it works. Try the tasting menu with matching wine.

The newly opened Arabella’s has a smart, contemporary European menu and a custom-designed

We’re championing Port Douglas and putting it on the pedestal it deserves American barbecue smoker for woodfired roasted meats, suckling pig, whole fish and flame-roasted vegetables.

Worthy Port stalwarts include the ever-popular Salsa, Sassi La Cucina and Bar, 2Fish and Watergate. Also, check out the markets at Market Park, next to Anzac Park, every Sunday between 8am and 1.30pm.

Sundowner spots The once-tired-looking marina has a new lease of life (and the renamed Crystalbrook Superyacht Marina is slated for a multimillion redevelopment). It’s the perfect spot to toast the sunset as the charter boats return from the Great

Barrier Reef.

Hemingway’s Brewery opened in mid-2016 with half a dozen handcrafted beers, each brewed using pure Mossman Gorge water, with names inspired by local yarns and characters. The fit-out includes a glass wall looking onto the working heart of the brewery and al fresco dining with views across the marina.

Next door is the chic and chilled sunset bar Barbados, with postcard views of Dickson Inlet and a stellar cocktail list, including signature rum cocktails, gin cocktails served in a teapot and jugs of Pimm’s.

Relative newcomer Jimmy Rum’s Mixing Lounge is unmarked, with only a red light to signal the entrance. Owner James Gorman is a Hollywood movie producer who counts Les Misèrables among his portfolio. The bar has a dark New York vibe, and an astonishing list of cocktails (some 180) from tiki-style to martinis and Prohibition-era.

PHOTOGRAPHY HEMINGWAY’S BREWERY

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Explore I PORT DOUGLAS

CLOCKWISE: Ready to hunt and gather on Cooya Beach, crab chat, ‘muddies’ demolished.

INSET: A fine catch.

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Catch of the day Hunt for your lunch and catch a dose of culture in the process. “At least one person each tour asks about crocodiles,” says Lincoln Walker, as we walk across a wide expanse of tide-exposed sand. “But we’re safe – the crocs don’t like to be this far out of the water.”

Considering we only have flimsy bamboo spears as protection and judging from the warm-up throws we’ve done on the beach, he’s the only one who has a chance should that not be the case.

But if anyone knows this beach, it’s Lincoln. Cooya Beach, a crescent of mangrove-fringed sand just outside Port where the Mossman

River empties its water into the Coral Sea, is his backyard. For 18 years, he and brother Brandon have been bringing tourists on their Kuku Yalanji Cultural Habitat Tours to visit the traditional fishing grounds of their Kubirri Warra clan, catch their lunch and learn about Indigenous hunting.

“They like to hide in these pools of water at low tide,” Lincoln says of the “muddies” we’re looking for, pointing to a shallow water-filled indentation in the sand. We poke around holes in the sand exposed by the low tide, when suddenly a shout goes up. “I’ve got one!” It’s the five-year-old accompanying his parents, dangling an angry-looking

crab on the end of his spear.

“Good on you, bub,” Lincoln says, as he disengages the crab and puts it in a bucket. I wade through knee-deep pools where schools of whiting flash silver and clumsily throw a spear that lands on the water’s surface. Lincoln’s spear meanwhile flies through the air, humming and vibrating before pinning a fish to the sandy bottom.

The five-year-old wunderkind manages another crab, the only one of us to catch any, and Lincoln spears a couple more fish before we call it a day.

Across the road at Lincoln’s house we gather on the verandah with a cool drink while he cooks our catch and tells us hunting stories.

The five-year-old is beaming, as we gather round and tuck into the sweet-fleshed crab that Lincoln has cooked in chilli sauce. “That’s my crab isn’t it?” he asks. “Sure is, mate,” says his dad.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Cairns and extensive car hire options.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY BELINDA LUKSIC, TOURISM & EVENTS QUEENSLAND

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Explore I MOUNTAIN BIKING

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IN THE NORTHERN REACHES OF QUEENSLAND, A MOUNTAIN BIKING NIRVANA WEAVES ITS WAY THROUGH AN ANCIENT LANDSCAPE

PHOTOGRAPHY PORT DOUGLAS TOURISM

WORDS TRACEY CROKE

Explore I MOUNTAIN BIKING

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M

ention mountain biking and most people think of – well

– mountains.

Typically, they picture ranges in famous locations such as Whistler in British Columbia and Chamonix in the French Alps; iconic destinations where biking disciples congregate in search of the Holy Grail of trails.

Australia might not have the mammoth peaks of other continents, but what it lacks in

jagged ice-crowned pointy parts, this country makes up for with deep gorges, seemingly bottomless ravines and escarpments left over from when the continent was still attached to Antarctica.

For a complete change of scenery, mountain bikers should head to Tropical North Queensland – a paradise of lush rainforests, fantastical creatures and kangaroofur nipple warmers. The latter being proof that even in the tropics, it gets chilly in the winter months.

There, you’ll ride through a scenic time warp – a rainforest tens

of millions of years older than the Amazon, chock-a-block with giant fig trees, ancient carpet ferns and sky-scraping waterfalls tumbling into pristine pools. Among flora that dinosaurs once munched on, you might catch a glimpse of some of the region’s rare and curious creatures, such as the prehistoric cassowary.

If it sounds like fantasy, you’re right. Anyone who’s seen the movie Avatar will know of Pandora; an earth-like moon of floating mountains, alien wildlife and bioluminescent plants. And it’s

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND, TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND, ISTOCK

Explore I MOUNTAIN BIKING

Carving up the tracks of Tropical North Queensland.

BELOW: Bike through World Heritage rainforest. LEFT: Enjoy quiet trails. INSET: Spot cassowaries in the Daintree.

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Spot the cassowary

rumoured that Avatar designer, Dylan Cole, found inspiration in these lofty Queensland rainforests.

Back in the real world, when you hit the volcanic clay earth of Tropical North Queensland, you’ll be riding through a sacred region of legends and champions who put Australian mountain biking on the world map.

In the 1990s, local rider Glen Jacobs built a network of trails from his backdoor into the rainforest.

“They were a bit different because they had to cope with thrashings from tropical storms and half-metre

You’ll ride through a time warp – a rainforest tens of millions of years older than the Amazon wallops of rain,” Glen explains.

The sign-writer turned professional trail-builder is world renowned for his sustainable creations and has created hundreds across the world.

Back on home turf, Glen’s original

trails grew into several networks, which now stretch from Cairns all the way to the Cassowary Coast.

Today, there are 700km of mapped and marked trails to choose from, catering to everyone from total novice to expert rider.

Nothing pleases Glen more than watching families and beginners whoop with joy, while experts test their mettle on World Championship descents.

“Mountain biking is for anyone who loves the outdoors and the thrill of the wind rushing by,” he says.

Explore I MOUNTAIN BIKING

On the trails SMITHFIELD: Choose from 60km of trails for all levels in Australia’s highestprofile rainforest trail network.

KURANDA DOWNHILL TRAIL:

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This legendary Australian trail is the training ground of World Cup athletes and many thrilling tales.

ATHERTON FOREST:

For trail destinations and maps see ridecairns.com For mountain bike tours, lessons, bike hire and shuttles see tropicrides.com and bikenhiketours.com.au

It’s a precious zone on earth where two World Heritage sites meet: the Daintree Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef

Explore the rainforest, waterfalls and lakes along a network of beginner and intermediate trails.

DAVIES CREEK NATIONAL PARK: Bring your swimmers on this wilderness ride for a cool-off in a pristine creek.

THE CASSOWARY COAST: Mountain bike through shady rainforest or ride along kilometres of beach.

PORT DOUGLAS AND DAINTREE: Connects the hinterland to the coast and finishes with a spectacular ride along Four Mile Beach.

The Bump Track passes through the Mowbray National Park. ABOVE: Pedal through the Davies Creek National Park.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TROPICAL NORTH QUUENSLAND

But the Tropical North’s shrine to mountain biking isn’t done yet.

A new multi-day trail for bikers and hikers is in the pipeline, and set to be one of Australia’s star attractions.

Once it gets the thumbs up, the Wangetti Trail will weave its way from Palm Cove to Port Douglas – a reach of 76km. It’s a precious zone on earth where two World Heritage sites meet: the Daintree Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef.

“Where else on the planet can mountain bikers ride a trail with such world-famous beauties side-by-side?” asks Glen.

Some might call it the Holy Grail of trails.

Images courtesy of Tourism & Events Queensland and the www.travelsofsophie.com

Where rainforest meets the reef

Hartley's Crocodile Adventures

Arabella�s

Hartley's Crocodile Adventures is an Eco-accredited wildlife

Arabella's Port Douglas showcases the best food in Port

attraction, restaurant and crocodile farm situated between

Douglas, using our region's seafood, fresh local produce and

Palm Cove and Port Douglas.

Visitors can experience its

artisan products. We pride ourselves on elegance, and our

Lagoon Cruises, crocodile feeding shows and interactive

incredible al fresco dining areas are a testament to this. Join us

wildlife feeding presentations. With Koala encounters,

at 22 Wharf Street for a long lunch overlooking the Coral Sea, or

kangaroos, wombats, reptiles, emus, cassowaries and more, it

for an intimate dinner under the stars.

has something to offer every traveller. crocodileadventures.com +61 7 4055 3576

Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple Resort & Spa

arabellas.net.au +61 7 4099 6072

Divers Den

Located on the beachfront of Four Mile Beach, where

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comfort as you visit the Outer Barrier Reef. You'll have the

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opportunity to swim amongst the underwater locals at our

gardens, flanked by ALUCO Restaurant and Bar and award

exclusive reef sites; these offer guests a chance to see superb

winning Vie Spa. Luxurious accommodation and incredible

coral formations and an abundance of marine life. AquaQuest

food will leave you wanting more. Quote "Jetstar" to receive a

welcomes everyone from experienced divers to first time

Pullman Signature Cocktail on arrival.

snorkelers.

pullmanportdouglas.com.au +61 7 4084 3500

diversden.com.au +61 7 4099 6419

Hemingway's Brewery

Wildlife Habitat Port Douglas

Hemingway's Brewery is a Gastro Brewpub situated on the

Wildlife Habitat's open and interactive environment is the

beautiful Crystalbrook Superyacht Marina in Port Douglas.

perfect place to make memories with your loved ones. Enjoy

Hemingway's is the first of its kind in Far North Queensland and

the many experiences on offer including hand feeding

offers a relaxed vibe where you can enjoy locally hand crafted

kangaroos, cuddling a Koala, or

beers suited to the tropical climate and fresh local produce. A

crocodiles in one of our presentations. Book online with the

second spectacular venue will open at the Cairns Cruise Liner

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Terminal, overlooking the beautiful Trinity Inlet in June 2018.

Breakfast with the Birds. T&C's Apply

hemingwaysbrewery.com +61 7 4099 6663

wildlifehabitat.com.au +61 7 4099 3235

Visit Mossman Gorge

meeting pythons and

QT Port Douglas

Located only 15mins from Port Douglas, experience the

QT Port Douglas welcomes guests with a contemporary yet

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quirky tropical vibe. Walk in to our hip resort and be met by an

Centre features a cafe, art gallery, gift shop and tour desk. A

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villas perfect for business or leisure travel. Enjoy delicious dining options and balmy evenings with cocktail in hand.

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mossmangorge.com.au +61 7 4099 7000

qtportdouglas.com.au +61 7 4099 8900

WHAT ARE YOU UP TO THIS WINTER? At Anaconda, we believe everyone should put a little more play back in their lives, even when it’s cold out there! When you’re ready to enjoy your next Winter adventure, we have everything you need to get outdoors and play more.

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Glitz +glamp LIKE THE IDEA OF A GRANGE EXPERIENCE ON A CASK-WINE BUDGET? YOU MIGHT BE ONE OF THE NEW BREED OF GLAMPACKERS: BUDGETCONSCIOUS TRAVELLERS SEEKING A SLIGHTLY MORE SOPHISTICATED EXPERIENCE

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WORDS EMMA MARKEZIC

PHOTOGRAPHY RIPARIDE

Hit the road with flair

Explore I GLAMPACKING

T

here comes a time when backpacker dorms and communal bathrooms are behind you, but five-star resorts are still out of reach. So what do you do when you have just a few coins to rub together and wanderlust to boot? Fortunately enough the travel industry is falling over itself to provide a host of Goldilocks-type experiences these days. Not too cheap, not too costly – we’ve rounded up a list of the adventures that are just right.

Glamp out

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The spark that started a movement, glamping is the epitome of glampacking. It’s the kind of trip where you take your own food but not your own toilet paper, sweep your own floor but don’t have to sleep on it. You could opt for a $150-a-night glamping tent on Sydney Harbour’s Cockatoo Island.

Or for $180 a night you can revel in a luxury bell tent complete with bed, linen, lanterns and bunting, thanks to Soul Camping in Western Australia’s Margaret River region.

But for a really memorable experience, try Nightcap Ridge.

Tucked away in the Byron Bay hinterland you’ll find a secluded cottage that’s yours for $190 a night for up to three people, plus pets. For that price you’ll get all the misty mornings, sprawling orchards, native birds, starry nights and roaring campfires you can handle. Not to mention a clawfoot bath, cosy throws, aromatic toiletries and country oasis vibes.

“We do have satellite internet but it’s optional,” explains Fraser, the property’s on-site custodian. “We actually find people enjoy their stay better without internet and with a conversation instead!”

We actually find people enjoy their stay better without internet and with a conversation instead

And while you’re at it, make sure you partake in Fraser’s optional chicken stew – the stuff of bush legend. “The hanging pot on the campfire is a real treat for guests,” he says.

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PHOTOGRAPHY SOUL CAMPING, NIGHTCAP RIDGE, CREMORNE POINT MANOR, QT MUSEUM WELLINGTON

Get a room Don’t think you can’t get luxury city stays on a glampacker’s budget though. Hotels aren’t just for the financially gifted anymore: there’s a slew of quirky, new hotels (with all the customary bells and whistles) designed for the cultured, yet thrifty, traveller.

At the QT Museum Wellington, from NZ$212 a night, you’ll get a boutique experience in one of the most eccentric ‘designdriven’ hotels in New Zealand, complete with a museum-style modern art collection, indoor pool and Instagram-worthy cocktail lounge. And for a serious price-to-panache ratio, head to Sydney and check into Cremorne Point Manor – a heritage-listed Federation house turned glampacker oasis. With views of Sydney Harbour from its sweeping guest verandas, plus laundry facilities, free Wi-Fi, free breakfast and even a lift (you’re too fancy for stairs now), this North Shore pad blurs the lines between hostel and hotel. Rooms range from dorms to queen suites with en suite, right through to a penthouse. And rates start at just $74.

If you’re looking for something tropical try Rambutan in Townsville, Queensland. A resort-style hideaway that boasts dorms, boutique-style hotel rooms and self-contained villas, it’s designed to satisfy gen Yers who want luxury without the price tag. The award-winning resort nails the vibe with a rooftop pool, restaurant and bar, plus free Wi-Fi and a travel desk.

You could be sunning yourself atop their decidedly designer dorm digs from just $24.

Hotels aren’t just for the financially gifted anymore

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CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Starry skies over Nightcap Ridge, balcony views from Cremorne Point Manor, quirky QT, a misty morning at Nightcap Ridge, Soul Camping at Contos campground.

Explore I GLAMPACKING

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Laying the table for EatWith, an EatWith meal, find a home in Melbourne on Airbnb, a bonding experience thanks to Riparide.

Share and share alike Of course, there’s also the rise of sharing economy-based businesses.

Don’t be shy if you haven’t tried one yet – there’s much goodness to be had.

Consider EatWith, which lets you book a seat at a local dinner party in Tokyo, or a cooking class in Bali. Or Riparide, which is all about providing back-to-nature experiences – think hiking with a llama through the Macedon Ranges or organising an overnight stay in a Kombi campervan.

Then there’s Airbnb. With hundreds of thousands of options the world over and new accommodation added every week,

this is the perfect base to return to after your inner-city adventures you don’t have to sift for long to find a veritable gem, such as the site’s award-winning, architecturally designed ‘Flinders Lane Architect Apartment’. Ensconced in a heritage-listed building in Melbourne’s CBD, the two-bedroom unit is far from a dingy spare room in the back of someone’s house, with column inches in Kinfolk Home, The Saturday Paper and

Inside Out attesting to its brilliance.

“Every detail has been considered,” says owner Dan, who rents the apartment in its entirety for $260 a night. “Miele appliances, super-fast Wi-Fi, very comfy queen bed with lovely linen, concealed dishwasher and fridge, deep bath, a great selection of design and architecture books, a Bose sound system and carefully chosen objects and furniture from around the world … this is the perfect base to return to after your inner-city adventures.” The best part: no porters to tip or generic hotel hallways to traverse.

Need more convincing? Beyoncé rented an Airbnb after her 2016 Super Bowl performance, so you’re in good company. It has a private orchard, infinity pool and costs in excess of $30,000 a night, but still.

PHOTOGRAPHY EATWITH, AIRBNB, RIPARIDE

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+ BACKPACKER =

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Casual fine dining at Restaurant Hubert’s upstairs cousin Bridge Bon Appetit.

Three squares Silver service is best left to the Beyoncés and Jay-Zs of the world though – these days casual fine dining is where the street-smart eat. You just need to know where to look.

Bridge Bon Appetit, the cheap and cheerful arm of Sydney’s Restaurant Hubert, is perched above the main floor and serves

lighter fare than the white linen-lined downstairs area – think saucisson with pickled vegetables.

There are also places you can get prime ribeye for a steal if you know where to look, such as Fergburger in New Zealand’s Queenstown. The illustrious gourmet hamburger joint often sports a line that spills out onto the street, but they’ll serve you a medium ribeye between a bun with all the trimmings for $18.50.

While you’re waiting, drink in the names – the Codfather, Bun Laden and Chief Wiggum are as delicious as they are clever.

Or the golden ticket, Hawker Chan in Melbourne: the world’s cheapest Michelinstarred restaurant, direct from Singapore. Their soy-sauce marinade is such a closely guarded secret, that chef and owner Chan Hong Meng makes it from scratch daily in a locked room before it’s flown direct to Australian shores. And while it’s the first street food outlet to score a Michelin star, its world-famous chicken and rice is still only $6.80. Any glampacker worth their Yelp review must visit at least once.

+ CAMPING =

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YOUR SALARY

glampacking holiday money left over for wine PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL BOUD

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There are also places you can get prime ribeye for a steal if you know where to look

There is nowhere in the world where you can experience so much, so close and so easily.

Your South Island experience begins with just a hours drive from Christchurch New Zealand, whether you’re driving North, South, East or West, Mid Canterbury is the prefect stop.

Stay as long as you can to explore Mid Canterbury to the fullest.

With stunning snow capped mountains as its backdrop and boarded by impressive braided rivers and crystal clear lakes, the scenery is so magniďŹ cent it will take your breath away.

Mid Canterbury is one of the great secrets of New Zealand, with an inspiring range of both energetic and relaxing activities.

Join us for a journey of exploration and exhilaration.

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Explore I QUEENSTOWN

QUEENSTOWN

Off the slopes in Queenstown FROM ADRENALINE THRILLS TO BARS GALORE, NOWHERE IN AUSTRALASIA NAILS APRÈS-SKI QUITE LIKE QUEENSTOWN WORDS SARAH REID

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PHOTOGRAPHY ONSEN HOT POOLS

Soak up the stars here

Explore I QUEENSTOWN

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W

ith four excellent ski resorts from 25 to 90 minutes’ drive away, Queenstown on New Zealand’s South Island is the ultimate base for a winter holiday.

As the picturesque lakeside town gears up to welcome snow sports enthusiasts from all over the world for another season, we reveal the best places to lap up the fun beyond the ski fields.

cheapest drinks in town. Another great casual option is The World Bar. A fire gutted this local favourite in 2013, but it’s now back with a great beer garden and a remastered menu of its famous teapot cocktails.

If you’d rather snuggle up inside, Pub on Wharf has cosy booths, or, if you’re headed back from Cardrona Alpine Resort, stop in for a drink by the roaring fire at

Platter of pleasures

APRÈS-SKI DRINKS You might not be able to ski directly into Queenstown, but there are more than 150 places to enjoy a post-session bevvy, most within walking distance of the CBD. If you’re still in your ski gear, snag an outdoor table at 1876 Bar and Restaurant – named for the year the former courthouse building was erected. This classic pub serves some of the

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Snowy surrounds at Cardrona Distillery, get snug at Pub on Wharf, killer cocktails at Little Blackwood, World Bar’s culinary offerings, food with friends at Little Blackwood, feast on fish at 1876. INSET: Shaken not stirred at Madam Woo.

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the picturesque lakeside town gears up to welcome snow sports enthusiasts

The Remarkables – another popular ski area. Euro-chic wine bar Bardeaux, tucked in an alley in the heart of town, really gets going later on.

DINNER TIME

PHOTOGRAPHY WHITELAW MITCHELL,

A trip to Queenstown isn’t complete without queuing for a Fergburger. But if waiting is not your style, newcomer Devil Burger is (almost) as good. If you’re craving Mexican, Taco Medic serves up the best tacos this side of Mexico City. the historic Cardrona Hotel. The new Cardrona Distillery, just a few minutes down the road, is worth checking out while there.

For cocktails, pull up a stool at Little Blackwood, which uses house-made syrups in its creative concoctions, or make a beeline for Reds, a huge bar in the new QT Queenstown hotel with a killer cocktail menu and breathtaking views towards

For a sit-down meal, try a pub-style feed from Pub on Wharf, Public Kitchen and Bar or The World Bar. For something a little fancier, reserve a table at Madam Woo, where the menu is inspired by Malaysian hawker-style food; or splurge on modern-Kiwi haute cuisine at Rātā, helmed by celebrity chef Josh Emett.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Quaff caffeine at quirky Yonder, views for days at Onsen Hot Pools, find your inner superhero while skydiving, the Shotover Canyon Swing.

You don’t have to venture far to find a faultless flat white

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PHOTOGRAPHY WHITELAW MITCHELL, TOURISM NEW ZEALAND, ONSEN HOT POOLS

COFFEE AND BRUNCH You don’t have to venture far to find a faultless flat white before the ski lifts open, and many local cafés offer terrific brunch menus, too. Queenstown’s much-loved Vudu Café might have closed, but many locals say Vudu Café and Larder – its reincarnation on Rees Street – is even better. Yonder, on Church Street, is a quirky addition to the local scene, but it’s difficult to go past Bespoke Kitchen. This bright, spacious café, near the Skyline Gondola station, offers arguably the best brunch menu in town, plus a tempting array of baked treats and gourmet sandwiches to boot. You can order coffee and brekkie to go at all of these hotspots, though if you’re in a rush, grab a pie and a brew from Fergbaker (next door to Fergburger) while you wait for the ski bus.

ADRENALINE HIT They don’t call Queenstown the adventure capital of the world for nothing. AJ Hackett Bungy – New Zealand’s original bungee operation – operates three stomach-churning jumps in Queenstown, including the 134m Nevis, Australasia’s highest.

If giant swings are more your thing, you can choose to launch into the nearby Shotover Canyon Swing. Beginning with a five-metre freefall, even the Shotover Canyon Fox will give you a thrill.

If you’re game, whitewater rafting and jetboat trips also run throughout winter at various locations. And if the weather’s good, check out the skydiving,

paragliding, hot air ballooning and scenic flight options, too.

SPA-AAAH Queenstown’s Onsen Hot Pools has to be one of the world’s most scenic locations for an outdoor soak. Spend a blissful hour in an ultra romantic, steaming cedar hot tub perched on a cliffside overlooking the Shotover River. If you’re intrigued by the healing benefits of floating in 450kg of Epsom salts, swing by Queenstown’s new Salt Float Spa, while those in search of more traditional pampering are best off at the Sofitel’s So Spa or the Hilton’s eforea: spa.

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Take a break from the slopes with the best daytrips from Queenstown Arrowtown

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WINE THERAPY Part of the Central Otago wine region – famed for its pinot noir – Gibbston Valley is only a 15-minute drive from Queenstown, and its cellar doors are open year-round. If you don’t fancy self-driving, family-owned Queenstown Wine Trail offers a range of wine-tasting tours in Gibbston and beyond. Don’t miss Amisfield, which operates one of New Zealand’s most revered bistros. Nearby, newish Akarua Wines and Kitchen is another great spot for wine tasting and great food. Most wineries charge NZ $5 to $10 for tastings (redeemable on bottle purchases), though if you know where to go (hint: Peregrine Wines) you can taste a few varietals for free.

FAMILY FUN

Wanaka

Rising up behind the town centre, the Skyline Gondola is the gateway to a range of family-friendly activities. Open from 10am until dusk, the Skyline Luge at Bob’s Peak also has an advanced track for big kids.

Stay on to take in a Māori performance by Queenstown’s Kapa Haka group. At the base of the gondola, you can also spot New Zealand’s national bird in the Kiwi Birdlife Park, or sign up for a round of minigolf at CaddyShack City.

Ziptrek Ecotours (which offers ziplining among the treetops at the top of Bob’s Peak) is another fun outdoor activity for the whole family. But if it’s too chilly for outdoor play, consider a round of go-karting or laser tag at the Game Over indoor entertainment complex in Frankton, behind Queenstown’s airport. Frankton is also home to the Alpine Aqualand heated pool complex, and you’ll find a Reading Cinemas complex back in the heart of Queenstown.

If you’re planning a ski day at Treble Cone you’ll pass through Wanaka, but it’s worth carving out a whole day to explore this relaxed lakeside town about an hour’s drive from Queenstown.

Now home to a good handful of excellent restaurants and breweries – plus two cellar doors within walking distance of the centre – you might even want to consider an overnighter.

Glenorchy If it’s a clear day, consider a drive to the top of Lake Wakatipu. Tiny Glenorchy doesn’t have many real attractions of its own, but the scenery during the 45-minute trip from Queenstown is exquisite.

Alternatively, take one of the many The Lord of The Rings tours from Queenstown, which visit this magical corner of Middle Earth.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Queenstown.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ZIPTREK ECO TOURS, AMISFIELD BISTRO, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

FROM TOP: Amisfield winery’s grounds, ziplining through snowcovered forest, get close to the NZ native kiwi bird in Queenstown.

Its heritage buildings have long since morphed into hip cafés, restaurants and pubs, but there’s still a whiff of the gold rush in this cute little town, just 23km north-east of Queenstown. Schedule a lazy brunch at The Chop Shop, then step back into the 1860s at the excellent Lakes District Museum and Art Gallery before joining the après-ski crowd at The Fork and Tap pub, or at cosy speakeasystyle bar The Blue Door.

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INDONESIA Gili Islands Bali

PHOTOGRAPHY GILI ECO TRUST, DERIS NORTHMAN, ROOS MICHELS

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Turtle

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magic Discover the inhabitants of a prolific underwater world around a tiny trio of Indonesian islands

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WORDS SOPHIE HULL

CLOCKWISE FROM THIS IMAGE: In the water with Dive Central Gili, fishy characters, on board with Dive Central Gili, a close encounter, hatchlings under the care of Gili Eco Trust. OPPOSITE: Meet the locals with Dive Central Gili.

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What you looking at?

W PHOTOGRAPHY SIMON FURLONG, ROOS MICHELS

e’re pretty sure you’ll

see turtles,” our snorkelling guide says.

“Don’t get your hopes up,” I tell myself, wondering if he’s leading us on.

But within minutes of jumping from our bright yellow boat into the intensely turquoise water off Indonesia’s Gili Trawangan island, a graceful figure passes by.

Mesmerised, I follow the turtle at a distance until it’s out of sight. Then another pops into view, and another.

At first I think our timing is lucky, but when I discover this particular spot is called “turtle city” I start to realise there’s more to it than luck. The turtles are here yearround and snorkellers and divers are almost guaranteed to see green

turtles, and sometimes the endangered hawksbill turtles too.

Located off the northwest coast of Lombok, the Gili Islands consist of the small and quiet Gili Meno, slightly busier Gili Air and Gili Trawangan, or ‘Gili T’ – the biggest and busiest of the three, popular with backpackers.

But even on Gili T, quieter parts are the picture of a storybook tropical island, with white-sand beaches, clusters of coconut palms, and no motorised vehicles to be found.

The underwater world After my all-too-brief snorkelling trip on Gili T, I’m keen to learn how I could spend more time in the water here. Steve Willard, general manager of Dive Central Gili, says diving is the way to go.

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TOP TO BOTTOM: Underwater with Dive Central Gili, come face-to-face with green turtles, paradise found on the Gili Islands.

“For most divers, being underwater and having that quiet environment is our ‘me time’. We call it ‘going and blowing some bubbles’. People enjoy that and the feeling of weightlessness, while some like the rush of pushing their limits,”

Steve says. “I love nothing more than just escaping the real world and seeing what I see down there.”

There are about 25 diving spots around Gili T and, even after six years of diving them, Steve says he finds it difficult to pick a favourite.

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when you spend a bit of time with the turtles you see they are absolutely beautiful

“You’ll find that every day is a new challenge.

It doesn’t matter how long you’ve been here, you’ll get different conditions.

The currents shape and form the island, giving you different aspects. It keeps you on your toes.”

Despite hundreds of turtle-packed dives under his belt, Steve still appreciates their beauty and innate grace, but notes that turtles are popular for an altogether more practical reason too.

“Turtles are very easy to spot. They have no reason to move on or be scared of the tourists here because they are so used to divers. You can see they’re looking into your eyes too, checking

you out. You feel like they recognise you and aren’t threatened by you.

“And when you spend a bit of time with them you see they are absolutely beautiful. The shell is hard to describe but it looks like cloud swirls or an old Japanese plate.”

You can spot more than just turtles on underwater excursions here. “Because of the sandy ocean bottom and fringing coral reef there’s an array of weird and wonderful wildlife,” Steve says.

The 3500-odd kinds of underwater locals include large reef sharks, ornate ghost pipefish, a polka-dotted pygmy seahorse and colourful scorpion fish.

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Waters teeming with fish await off the Gilis, taking the plunge on a Dive Central Gili trip, you’re almost guaranteed to see green turtles.

PHOTOGRAPHY ROOS MICHELS

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The surrounding reefs have been damaged by bleaching several times, most recently in 2016, but Steve says some areas have recovered remarkably quickly.

Gili Eco Trust, which launched in 2000, has worked to protect the precious environment through ecotourism, waste management and coral restoration on artificial reefs.

Dive Central Gili supports Gili Eco Trust by running beach and underwater clean-ups and educating its staff about recycling, which is not yet widespread in Indonesia.

“In the Western world (recycling is) not a big thing but here it is. In the scheme of things, on this island, that makes a big change,” Steve says.

An environment like this – with distinctive wildlife beneath the water’s surface, and stunning tropical scenery above it – is certainly worth treasuring. giliecotrust.com divecentralgili.com

Respect Gili’s waters

DIVE ON IN

With bathtub-warm waters (the average water temperature is 28 degrees) and incredibly fair prices (Gili T is known as one of the world’s cheapest places to learn to dive) Gili T is paradise for rookie divers. Steve’s top tips for beginners are:

CHOOSE A REPUTABLE COMPANY “You want to know the air you’re breathing is clean and dry.” Look for PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) certification to ensure international safety standards are followed.

KEEP CALM “Try to stay as calm as possible and don’t let the equipment overwhelm you. Once you put that out of your mind it becomes easier.”

TRUST THE INSTRUCTOR Conditions can vary from day to day and it’s important to take note of what the instructor says. “A lot of people go wrong, particularly those confident in the water, because they assume they know what they’re doing,” he says.

GETTING THERE Fast ferries deliver travellers to the Gili Islands from several spots in Bali. Trips from Nusa Lembongan to Gili T take around two hours.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Bali.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

DON’T TOUCH TURTLES, or any other living creature, including coral, which is fragile. Turtles have a protective barrier of mucus around them and touching them can compromise that.

KEEP YOUR DISTANCE. Turtles seem to have a magnetic quality that draws tourists closer. But the Gili Shark Conservation organisation recommends staying 2m away – especially since the turtle may be trying to get to the surface of the water to breathe.

BIN YOUR LITTER. And gain extra environmental points by putting any litter you find on the ground or on the beach into a bin too. Turtles can easily confuse rubbish for their usual meals of sea grass and jellyfish, with fatal results. gilisharkconservation.com

PHOTOGRAPHY SIMON FURLONG, GILI ECO TRUST

Environment matters

Cruise the turquoise waters around the Gili Islands. BELOW: The Gili Eco Trust is working to protect Gili’s beaches from rubbish.

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HOT IN THE COLD HOBART’S ART AND FOOD SCENES SPRING TO LIFE IN THE COLDER MONTHS. WRAP UP AND HEAD OUT INTO THE TASMANIAN CAPITAL’S LESSER-KNOWN CORNERS 110

WORDS JENNIFER PINKERTON

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HOBART

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES

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t’s 8am on a frostlaced Friday in Hobart. Mist lifts off the Derwent River, and in the distance the city’s towering backdrop, Mount Wellington, stands cold and grey.

Tucked inside more sheltered surrounds – at Pigeon Whole Bakers in the CBD – I’m shamelessly people-watching, while scoffing an almond croissant and coffee. A passionate Tasmanian art dealer assures me this bakery boasts the “best bread in Hobart ... wait, no, in Australia!” The shop’s vantage point of nearby footpaths isn’t half bad either.

As a parade of beanies, berets, cardigans and coats tick past, I observe that Hobartians know how to rug up. More broadly, rather than cowering from the cold, locals seem to embrace winter – as does the city’s suite of restaurants, cafés and bars with their respective fireplaces, rugs and blankets. Cosiness and creativity now appear woven into Tassie’s design DNA. “Six years ago, Hobart was super quiet over winter,” says Julie Gough,

a Tasmania-based Indigenous filmmaker, writer and artist. “But MONA [Museum of Old and New Art], and the ripple effect it creates, changed all that. The city has woken up. There are so many reasons to leave the house when the cold sets in. Nowhere is too big; all of our spaces feel intimate. Winter feels like it’s ours.”

In addition to products such as whisky, gin, wine, truffles and cheese, it’s the realm of art, markets and festivals that’s generating extra interest here, spreading carnivallike energy across town in the process.

This vivacity casts its light far beyond MONA – and these are the nooks I’m most keen to explore.

With this in mind, I munch the last of my breakfast, pull on a hat and step in line with the footpath parade outside.

Old souls From the outset I’m entranced by Hobart’s blend of old and new.

Perhaps this is the Canberran or Darwinian in me. I’m used to new cities – and neither my home town nor my adopted one have much

to offer in the way of oldeworlde charm. Hobart, by comparison, has an impressive list of ‘firsts’ – which makes sense given its status as Australia’s second-oldest city (colonised in 1804, just 16 years after Sydney).

A three-minute walk from Pigeon Whole Bakers, for instance, lies one of Australia’s oldest pubs, the 201-year-old Hope and Anchor Tavern.

Several blocks away, I stumble across our oldestworking theatre, the quaint, creaky 181-yearold Theatre Royal. And just up the road, I find one of our country’s oldest boutique hotels, the 184-year-old Hadley’s Orient, which doubles as an art gallery.

After a morning spent lazing around Franklin Square and a bookstorecum-teashop named Poet, I stride into the Hadley’s foyer, just off Murray Street. Here, I’m instantly transported to The Great Gatsby era.

Feathers spill from urns, ornate wallpaper lines the adjacent bar – complete with grand piano – and a grandfather clock chimes 12 o’clock: opening time for viewing Hadley’s

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On with the show

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Inside this Murray Street bakery, macarons tower in the window Art Prize, when it opens next month.

This two-year-old landscape art award was kick-started by the hotel’s owner, Don Neil, as a “gift to the Australian art community” – his thanks for the extra foot traffic MONA brought to Hobart, and in turn, to Hadley’s.

“When the prize is on, this space – which I love because it’s so grand, warm and welcoming – comes alive with some of the best contemporary art from around the country,” says curator Amy Jackett, who runs guided tours of the exhibition on Sunday afternoons.

I meander through the hotel’s permanent gallery of 19th-century botanical and Colonial art, before moving on to the prize’s exhibition space, which snakes beneath an elaborate leadlight ceiling.

Sweet sensations As my blood sugar starts to drop, Daci and Daci Bakers purrs my name. Inside this Murray Street bakery, macarons tower in the window, while cabinets display everything from pecan tarts to vanilla clafoutis, a type of flan. “It’s just like a pâtisserie in France,” a

nearby patron coos. And she’s right. The offerings here are delicate, ornate and artistic. It feels sacrilegious to bite into them. I quickly get over my reticence, however, and pair a pink macaron with something more ‘lunchy’, a Tasmanian smoked salmon tart.

When mid-afternoon washes over Hobart, I amble over to a space that’s intrigued me since I first heard of its existence: The Michael Bugelli Gallery.

Amy Jackett says even many locals don’t know it’s here. And as soon as I arrive, I understand

why. The signage out the front of this pretty, ivyclad terrace is extremely understated. What’s more, viewings are by appointment only; I dial the owner’s number and wait by the door.

Michael Bugelli looks to be in his 20s or early 30s (he won’t divulge his age, which further adds to the intrigue). “I’ve stopped apologising for being young,” he says, before leading me underground to a rustic space floored by sand. The main gallery stretches across what Michael calls the oldestsurviving, two-storey building in Australia, which doubles as a house for him and his architect partner. It’s experimental and ethereal, yet filled with antiques and art, including its current exhibition by West Australian ‘endurance’ artist Jacobus Capone.

“I like to describe us as an emerging gallery representing established artists,” Michael says.

Though Australian, he relocated to Tasmania

TOP TO BOTTOM: The grand old dame Theatre Royal, art appreciation at Hadley’s, pretty in pink at Daci and Daci Bakers.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA / NICK OSBORNE, JESSICA KING, JEN PINKERTON

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from London not long ago. “Because it’s the centre of the world,” he states confidently. “The ‘new Sydney’.”

Silky spirits

barrel table here, with glimpses of the Derwent River. I sip on the label’s Slainte whisky liqueur before wandering towards Salamanca Place.

From the end of an alleyway, noise bounces towards me – a brassy mash of trombone, sax, trumpet and drums.

Delightfully, there’s a jam brewing inside the Salamanca Art Centre’s courtyard. It heaves with rugged-up onlookers dispersed under willow trees. I join the dancers at Rektango – a free, weekly knees-up, held on Fridays

Tasmania’s reputation for whiskydistilling prowess has gathered pace – and work up the energy for dinner.

At riverside ‘art restaurant’ Landscape, the wine list is so substantial it’s delivered in a leather-bound tome.

I overhear one diner requesting a “highlights reel”. For me, however,

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Cubaninspired Rude Boy, gold in a glass at Lark, decadent dining at Landscape.

the real kicker isn’t wine, it’s the establishment’s collection of John Glover paintings from the colonial era, plus its dark and decadent atmosphere – yet another by-product of Hobart’s ‘old-meets-new’ alchemy.

I order a pinot noir and Wagyu beef from Tassie’s Robbins Island, then settle in for the night.

Market mojo Once caffeinated the next morning, I wander through the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery (TMAG), where I explore butterfly-filled ‘curiosity

A mighty fine drop

PHOTOGRAPHY JEN PINKERTON, LARK DISTILLERY CELLAR DOOR, ADAM GIBSON

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Evening darkness descends early in Hobart, which allays my guilt over hitting the bars come 4pm. I start with a couple of hip newcomers – the colourful, Cuban-themed Rude Boy, and the cooltoned Institut Polaire, an Antarctic-inspired gin and wine bar – before moving onto the real stuff: winter’s old mate, whisky.

Tasmania’s reputation for whisky distilling prowess has gathered pace in recent years (especially for creamy, oily blends) and much of this hype is credited to Bill Lark, the industry’s unofficial grandfather.

Given this, I make Lark Distillery’s cellar door my next port of call. There’s still enough light to sit perched at an outdoor

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@madeinearthofficial

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I’ve got my eye on you

PICTURED: Frozen in time at the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery. BELOW: Tassie-made at Salamanca Market.

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There’s a vibrancy across all areas of the arts right now their walls exclusively to Tasmanian art.

Local artist Katy Woodroffe tells me both spaces mix output from emerging talents with that of more established artists (with Despard being the edgier of the two).

In the past, the Tasmanian arts scene was conservative, she says, but things have changed dramatically: “There’s a vibrancy across all areas of the arts right now, as well as a real closeness within our community, owing

to the small population.

This is definitely the place to be.”

Though the galleries offer a reprieve from market madness, I feel a sudden pang for greenery.

At sunset I linger inside Princes Park, then skip down rambling stairs to gaze out at the water, vast and indigo. Behind me stands the frame of Mount Wellington, now awash in lollypop light.

Winter magic lives here, and it’s not vanishing anytime soon.

Fire up with festivals Hobart comes alive for the surreal city-wide cultural extravaganza of MONA’s Dark Mofo (13-24 June). The winter fun continues into July with the Festival of Voices (29 June to 15 July).

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Hobart from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY JEN PINKERTON, TOURISM TASMANI / KATHRYN LEAHY

cabinets’, plus a prisonthemed exhibition held in the gallery’s Bond Store basement – a collaboration between TMAG and Dark Mofo.

When I emerge, I head downhill to the Salamanca Market. Here, stalls buzz with yet more wintery delights such as sheep’s wool socks, homemade jams, mulled wine and mohair blankets in a rainbow of pastels.

From the corner of my eye, I spy two more independent galleries, Handmark and Despard.

Housed inside sandstone buildings, punctuated with chocolate-coloured wooden beams and a warehouse feel, these charming rooms – much smaller than those I’ve explored so far – dedicate

Promotion I FRANK’S

Frank’s Cider House and Cafe

Just a 30 minute drive south of Hobart, lies the beautiful Huon Valley. This is the home of “The Apple Isle’s” orchards, and the best place to find quality boutique cider!

Frank’s Cider House and Cafe in the historic town of Franklin, is the cellar door of Frank’s Cider, Tasmania’s highly awarded cider company.

Frank Clark’s Family have been farming in the valley since the 1830s and some trees on their property “Woodside” are over 150 years old!

The sixth generation, tree ripen the apples and pears, and blend them with summer fruits such as luscious ripe cherries, and tangy

raspberries. The result is delicious fruity ciders that are crisp, clean, and 100% real fruit with no added sugar!

Frank’s Cider House and Cafe is a heritage listed, former church hall, that is now a cosy cafe serving free cider tastings and a “cider inspired’ menu featuring seasonal produce from “Woodside” and other local producers.

Wander around the history displays as you sip a delicious mulled cider, or warm yourself by the cosy log fires. The Wooden Boat Centre just opposite Frank’s is definitely worth a visit after lunch!

3328 Huon Hwy, Franklin Open 7 days, 10am - 4pm during winter Ph (03) 6266 3828 www.frankscider.com.au

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Discover the finest produce in Tasmania’s beautiful, bountiful North West region by following the flavours of the Cradle to Coast Tasting Trail.

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SPREYTON FRESH 41 SOUTH TASMANIA spreytonfresh.com.au 41southtasmania.com Using only the finest Tasmanian apples A working salmon and ginseng farm and pears, Spreyton’s beverages are with a café to boot, this rural gem is handcrafted in Tasmania. Visit their orchard set among wetlands full with flora. and discover the fresh tastes of Spreyton’s.

SOUTHERN WILD DISTILLERY southernwilddistillery.com ASHGROVE ashgrovecheese.com.au Sample award-winning spirits made from the pure water and fresh ingredients of Enjoy award-winning specialty cheese, Tasmania at Southern Wild. fresh premium milk, pure cream and luxurious creamy butter.

VAN DIEMENS LAND CREAMERY ANVERS CONFECTIONERY vdlcreamery.com.au anvers-chocolate.com.au Indulge in Van Diemens’ unique, Located directly on the main highway Tasmanian-made, artisanal ice-cream between Devonport and Latrobe, Anvers flavours with a coffee or pancakes.

Confectionery perfectly captures the Chocolate Experience.

THE ANGEL’S SHARE theangelsshare.net.au CHRISTMAS HILLS RASPBERRY FARM CAFE Find Tasmanian whiskies, spirits and raspberryfarmcafe.com wine, plus art, possum and merino Situated 45 minutes from Launceston, this knitwear, and luxury goods at this store. farm café features a log fire, a lakeside PETUNA SEAFOODS & setting and all things raspberry.

GOURMET PANTRY petunagourmetpantry.com.au GHOST ROCK TASMANIA ghostrock.com.au Petuna are the fresh, local seafood specialists. Pre-order your seafood Nestled among the vines with panoramic views over the Bass Strait, this to take home on the plane. five-star winery is open daily for tastings HILL STREET GROCER and lunch. hillstreetgrocer.com MELITA HONEY FARM Foodie heaven awaits: find fresh local melitahoneyfarm.com.au produce, an incredible deli, amazing café and gourmet Tasmanian hampers Taste honey and view bees behind at Hill Street Grocer. glass. Enjoy a honey ice cream and nougat. Plus beeswax candles, honey soaps and more. cradletocoasttastingtrail.com.au

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TASTE OF THAILAND RICH IN HISTORY, CULTURE AND CULINARY DELIGHTS, AS WELL AS TROPICAL SANDS AND SUN, LITTLE WONDER PHUKET IS A MAGNET FOR TOURISTS WORDS CINDY BINGLEY-PULLIN

THAILAND I PHUKET

THAILAND Bangkok

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PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER WISE

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hink of Phuket, and chances are images of beautiful beaches and a buzzy nightlife spring to mind.

However, this Thai island is so much more than sun, sea and parties.

A historical hotpot of cultures, thanks to its multi-ethnic population and past life as a trading port, it’s also been recognised as a Creative City of Gastronomy by

UNESCO. From street eats to sophisticated dining and specialty regional dishes, Phuket is a culinary hub where many gourmet surprises are waiting to be discovered.

Bring your appetite!

Edible experience A good place to start educating your tastebuds is the Blue Elephant cooking school and restaurant, in a 105-yearold property in Phuket’s historic old town.

Once an official

governor’s residence, it’s a refined venue for a lesson in authentic Thai cuisine – a long driveway lined with bamboo torches leads us to an elegant twostorey mansion, splashed in shades of butter and cream, nestled in lush tropical surrounds.

A class here is a handson affair, whipping up a multi-course banquet that we later wolf down in the gracious setting of the restaurant.

But first, our host

Prair escorts us to the nearby markets, to source ingredients for our recipes.

We wander past hawker stalls laden with pineapples and fat bunches of bananas, bags of spices and oversized bowls of curry paste in earthen colours. We can’t resist sampling sticky rice wrapped in banana leaf and mango desserts, and quenching our thirst with juice from freshly-hacked green coconuts.

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“I cannot live without this,” she declares, with a grin and oil sizzles as the fragrant smells of garlic, fish sauce and roasted cumin seeds fill the humid air.

Finally, we feast on delicious local dishes – duck curry, mango salad with prawns, and sea bass in tamarind sauce – that, thanks to our lesson, we can recreate back home.

Walk this way After such an epic feast, burn some calories by exploring on foot.

Phuket Town – also known as the Old Town – is the historical heart of the island, with its roots in the tin-mining boom of the

TOP TO BOTTOM: Spicing things up at the market, sweet treats from Blue Elephant, Chinpracha House.

19th century.

The riches of that era are reflected in buildings around town: grand, colonial Chinese mansions, beautifully preserved shophouses and Buddhist temples. The distinctive architecture is also an expression of the various ethnicities (Chinese labourers, European tin barons, British, Arab

and Malay traders) who settled in Phuket seeking opportunity and prosperity.

A landmark worth visiting is Chinpracha House, built in 1903 in a style called ‘Angmor Lounge’ (‘angmor’ means European in the Hokkien dialect).

The current owners are sixth-generation Thai descendants of the

PHOTOGRAPHY CINDY BINGLEY-PULLIN, BLUE ELEPHANT

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Along the way, Prair teaches us about local produce – showing us how to make coconut milk by grabbing a fistful of the finely shaved fruit and squeezing, dribbles of white liquid plopping onto the open palm of her other hand.

By a display of chillies in varying sizes and hues, she reveals that the bigger the chilli, the lesser the heat; elsewhere, she points out three types of Thai basil (holy, sweet and lemon) – which, while similar, she insists cannot be exchanged in a recipe.

Her eyes light up when she spots a stall selling shrimp paste.

“I cannot live without this,” she declares, with a grin.

Back at the Blue Elephant, we don aprons and follow Prair’s demonstrations for each dish at well-equipped cooking stations.

Hours fly by in a flurry of activity: pestles pound mortars, metal spatulas clatter against woks over open flames,

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Explore I PHUKET

Portuguese shops and cafés on Thalang Road; the ex-red light district of Soi Romanee with its cotton candy-coloured facades; and the Memory at On On Hotel – Phuket’s oldest hotel – made famous by Hollywood movie The Beach.

Tu Kab Khao restaurant is worth a visit for its interiors alone – ornate ceilings, chandeliers, and patterned floor

Our tours are popular with culture lovers and people who want to explore beyond the beaches CLOCKWISE: Colourful shop houses on Thalang Road, sampling Moo Hong on Phuket Food Tours, get lost on Soi Romanee.

tiles – but locals and expats alike rave about its food: southern Thai classics such as yellow crab curry with white noodles and chicken curry with roti bread are reasonably priced and totally delicious.

Eating well Phuket’s traditional dishes may warrant crossing oceans for, but innovative, modern cuisine is also making waves here. Amatara Wellness Resort’s executive chef Bryan Burger has taken a fresh and innovative approach at The Grill, the resort’s fine-dining establishment, by integrating “wellness for the body and soul” into the menu.

Bryan’s classical French culinary training combined with his

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER WISE, GETTY IMAGES, PHUKET FOOD TOURS, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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original Chinese builder.

Today, sepia-toned family photographs still adorn the walls and interiors are furnished with period pieces belonging to wealthy ancestors, offering a fascinating glimpse back in time.

Given Phuket’s diverse heritage, it is unsurprising that one of the most interesting cultures here is a hybrid: the Peranakans, typically of mixed Chinese and Malay ancestry, have their own unique customs and cuisine.

Phuket Food Tours run guided walking tours of the ‘Peranakan Food Trail’, introducing visitors to secret eating venues for must-try specialities such as moo hong (pork belly stewed in soy sauce) and chicken in spicy coconut soup.

“Our tours are popular with culture lovers and people who want to explore beyond the beaches,” says our guide.

Indeed, the Old Town is a treasure trove of culture – other highlights include traditional Sino-

Explore I PHUKET

Art on a plate

Bryan Burger’s beetroot “rawvioli”. INSET: “Wellness for the soul” at The Grill.

extensive experience working with allergies, dietary requirements and raw cuisine means a menu where anything is possible. Lobster risotto, grass-fed beef steaks and mashed potato (hearty “wellness for the soul” dishes) sit sideby-side with steamed fish, beetroot “rawvioli” (a clever twist on pasta made with almond

We want them to have the experience of a quality meal in a sophisticated setting cheese and vegetables) and passionfruit yoghurt sorbets – decadent dishes given a healthier twist.

“We don’t want people thinking that wellness cuisine is a big bowl of salad – we want them to have the experience of a quality meal in a sophisticated setting,” Bryan explains. “No one else in Phuket is doing this. There are many restaurants focused on either the fine dining or the wellness side … we’ve

tried to merge both, which seems to have taken a lot of people by (nice) surprise.”

Another initiative making a difference through food is Seedlings Café, a social enterprise eatery at the Laguna Holiday Club Phuket Resort. Managed by the Banyan Tree hotel group, the Seedlings Internship Program provides training for disadvantaged young adults in the local community.

Coke, my softlyspoken waiter, recently completed the program and now works as a fully-fledged Seedlings Café employee. In his two years with the company, he has rotated through three different resorts and trained in the role of cashier, wait staff, kitchen

hand and bartender. His brother was previously in the program and, as Coke explains, it has provided them with opportunities they would not otherwise have had.

Service is warm and efficient, the food authentic – my bak kut teh (pork rib soup) spiced with goji berries, cloves and star anise is pure Phuket comfort food. Best of all is knowing that by simply eating there, I am helping to support the community in an ethical and sustainable manner.

Travel Info Jetstar has great low fares to Phuket from across the network.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY THE GRILL

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Wild blue wonder Head south from Sydney and take in the wonders of the Sapphire Coast WORDS BELINDA LUKSIC

PHOTOGRAPHY LIGHT TO LIGHT CAMPS, MICHAEL VAN EWIJK

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Explore I THE SAPPHIRE COAST

NEW SOUTH WALES Sydney

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CLOCKWISE: Keepers’ cottages with million-dollar views at the Green Cape Lightstation, catching waves near the Tathra Wharf, on the road with Light To Light Camps, a scenic stop.

Sapphire Coast

t’s about six hours into the Sydney-Melbourne coastal drive that you start to appreciate why the Sapphire Coast earned its name. The waters that lap this southernmost stretch of NSW, between Eden and Bermagui, are striking iridescent blues and greens.

This ‘humpback highway’ is nature’s eye-candy. Wilderness trails hug the rugged shoreline and pods of frolicking dolphins and whales play to empty beaches on their annual migration south from late winter. Holidays in this seaside region are filled with off-thebeaten-track camping adventures, endless beaches, oyster trails and farmers’ markets.

National parks and forests make up more than 70 per cent of the Sapphire Coast, with the Light to Light walk near Eden – in Ben Boyd National Park – one of the more spectacular coastal tracks.

The three-day, self-guided hike takes in secluded beaches, majestic red-rock formations, and wildlife to boot (think wallabies, seabirds and seals). And should you choose, the reward at the end of your trek is a night’s stay at Green Cape Lightstation. Come spring, humpback whales can be seen breaching the ocean here.

For a luxury option, Light to Light Camps will transport gear between campsites, set up tents and even prepare dinner.

Ocean to plate Oysters and sustainable seafood are big business on the Sapphire Coast, and a trip here isn’t complete without sampling at least a few

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Sample the goods on Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tours.

Explore THE SAPPHIRE COAST

The oyster man

dozen of the local Sydney Rock oysters. Like wine, they have their own watery ‘terroir’, and can vary in taste from lake to lake.

Pambula Lake, south of Merimbula, is part of the awardwinning Sapphire Coast Wilderness Oysters, a consortium of oyster growers whose beds stretch from the whale-watching town of Eden in the south to Wapengo and the fishing community of Bermagui

in the north. It’s here at a working oyster shed that you can pick up 16 freshly shucked oysters for around $14.

It’s also where Brett Weingarth (aka Captain Sponge) runs Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tours, taking three-hour trips around the lake and oyster leases in a flatbottomed boat. It’s a fun how-to of oyster farming and shucking, with a dozen of Brett’s finest to slurp

along the way.

Like much of the Sapphire Coast, it’s quiet and beautiful. Mangroves dot the banks, their briny smell tickling the nostrils. Ancient shell middens litter the shoreline, while above, sea eagles ride the currents.

There is birdsong and sightings of plovers, oystercatchers and terns.

Bring a jacket, as it can get cold.

Closer to shore, Australia’s Coastal Wilderness Adventures

PHOTOGRAPHY SARAH CHENHALL

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Explore I THE SAPPHIRE COAST

take people on snorkelling trips of the coastline to forage for delicacies such as blacklip abalone, mussels, sea urchin and Eastern Rock lobster. Afterwards, local chefs cook your sustainable catch and pair it with local wine and cheese – you’ll swear it’s the tastiest meal you’ve ever eaten.

CLOCKWISE: Relaxed dining at Bar Beach Kiosk, local oysters fresh from the water, try diving for your dinner.

Wining and dining

Forage for delicacies such as blacklip abalone, mussels, sea urchin and Eastern Rock lobster menu and breathtaking ocean views from its perch above the sheltered, family-friendly Bar Beach. Order a coffee and watch the stand-up paddle boarders ride the waves.

The outlook is no less picturesque at the Wharf Local, where local artists are showcased alongside regional flavours. Housed in the salmon-pink Tathra Steamer Wharf, the café stocks cheeses from nearby Tilba and Bega, sourdough from Honorbread and Wild Rye Baking Co breads. Upstairs, the volunteer-run Tathra Wharf Museum (when open) is a treasure trove of local sea-faring history.

The wharf was slightly damaged by the recent bushfire, but remains open for business.

Perfecting their craft A small craft beer scene is emerging on the far south coast.

Longstocking Brewery was the first of the Sapphire Coast’s microbreweries when it opened three years ago. At Oaklands Barn – a bucolic spot in Pambula – you

PHOTOGRAPHY BELINDA LUKSIC

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Seafood and oysters aren’t the only stars on a trip to the far south coast.

From Bermagui to Eden you’ll find farm gates, cheesemakers and hip restaurants and bars. At Dulcie’s Cottage in Merimbula, Sydney’s Shady Pines crew are flipping burgers from a 1950s caravan. The retro-chic bar, burger and oyster joint has Young Henrys’ beers on tap, good classic cocktails and acoustic sets on Sundays.

Former Noma chef William Wade has Long Time No Sea – a relaxed restaurant out the back of Cuttagee Beach Cottages near Bermagui with stunning views across paddocks of Barragga Bay and a small menu of locally sourced produce.

Bar Beach Kiosk is waiting at the end of the 3.4km (return) Merimbula boardwalk. This local favourite is open from October to April with a seasonal blackboard

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Explore I THE SAPPHIRE COAST

A whale of a time Eden is a small town with a big history. One of its most enduring tales is of an Orca called Old Tom who, in return for a small feed, would force humpbacks into Twofold Bay where whalers waited.

It’s a memorable tale told well

at Eden Killer Whale Museum, one of Australia’s finest local history museums.

These days, the only whaling in Eden is of the tourism kind. Cat Balou Cruises operates whale-watching trips from Twofold Bay aboard a catamaran between September and November.

Belinda Luksic travelled to the Sapphire Coast as a guest of Destination NSW.

Where to stay Tanja Lagoon Camp sits at the edge of a coastal lagoon in Mimosa Rocks National Park, a wild and stunning place. The luxury tents have a private deck, barbecue and bathroom with a deep, freestanding tub. Bushwalks at sundown are filled with the buzz of dragonflies and cicadas, and the sight of spoonbills clumsily coming in to land.

Mornings are also for walks and kayaking along a coastline dotted with kangaroos and beaches. tanjalagooncamp.com.au

Travel info

TOP TO BOTTOM: Hear a whale of a tale, glamping at Tanja Lagoon Camp, local libations at Longstocking Brewery.

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PHOTOGRAPHY MEGHAN LUHRS, WARWICK KENT / SAPPHIRE COAST TOURISM

134

can sample a tasting paddle of beers on the sunny deck. Themed around the 1920s, there’s a Fatty Arbuckle dark ale and a Bonnie and Clyde IPA, while the Gypsy is one of the best alcoholic ginger beers you’ll try.

Relative newcomer Camel Rock Brewery brings the flavours of America’s deep south to Bermagui.

The craft beer bar at the BIG4 Wallaga Lake Holiday Park has brews on tap and an American barbecue (think slow-cooked brisket, smoked ribs and burgers).

The Tathra Hotel is the latest to announce plans for a microbrewery.

The historic hotel reopened this year with a sleek new interior, a ‘no pokies’ rule and chic accommodation upstairs.

In humpback season, guests can watch the passing whales from their beds. The hotel was untouched by the destructive March bushfires, and visitors are encouraged to head to Tathra at this challenging time.

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Singapore

OFF THE GRID

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DISCOVER THE RESTORED SHOPHOUSES AND HISTORIC ENCLAVES A WORLD AWAY FROM SINGAPORE’S SHINY GLASS-AND-STEEL MALLS WORDS PEARLYN THAM

PHOTOGRAPHY SINGAPORE TOURISM BOARD

CLOCKWISE FROM THIS IMAGE: Update your wardrobe at The AC, discoveries on Haji Lane, whimsical cards from Grassroots Book Room, pretty patterns at The AC, shop the high street on Orchard Road, The AC style.

Beautiful in blue

Explore I SINGAPORE

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bookstores have had to downsize or even exit in the past few years, Kenny Leck and Karen Wai are considered brave souls. They started indie bookstore BooksActually in 2005 and grateful bibliophiles have colonised their store in Tiong Bahru to snap up out-of-print titles, critical works and antique editions. BooksActually also has the largest collection of Singaporean literary publications (or SingLit) in the country. For a non-clichéd souvenir, Kenny suggests gems such as La Kopi (an artist’s ode to local coffee) and Ways of Seeing (a look at architectural details in public housing blocks).

If music is more your thing, you’ll like the extensive collection of vinyl at neighbouring Curated Records. Tiong Bahru, once a low-cost public housing estate, has since gone through gentrification – cue the hip bakeries, restaurants and bars. Make a beeline for the famous indoor Tiong Bahru Market. There’s no air-conditioning, but you will find delicious and affordable Singapore cuisine such as chwee kueh (steamed rice cakes topped with preserved vegetables), fishball noodles and sugarcane juice in a

typical hawker setting.

From Tiong Bahru, take a slow, scenic walk of about 20 minutes through the old streets to Bukit Pasoh, where an interesting mix of old businesses and trendy restaurants await.

Look for Grassroots Book Room, a cosy space decorated with vintage furniture and curios offering a wide range of Chinese titles from Hong Kong, Taiwan, China, Malaysia and Singapore.

Only some of the titles here are in English, but inspiration can be found in the beautifully illustrated children’s books.

Look for knick-knacks such as tote bags, enamel brooches and retro toys, most made by indie local designers and artists.

Don’t leave without having Taiwanese tea or a lemon soda at the tranquil Katasumi Koohii café tucked away at the back of the shophouse.

For even more bookstore hopping, find the awardwinning Littered With Books at nearby Duxton Road. This two-storey treasure trove will keep you happily browsing with thousands of popular fiction, non-fiction, culinary, travel, children’s and illustrated works, and also stocks antiquarian books, modern first-editions and rare maps and prints.

THE PERFECT SOUVENIR Despite its nondescript name, 5b is anything but. If you are strolling down the entire Joo Chiat stretch – which, like Melbourne’s Chapel Street, goes progressively from classy shops to seedy pubs – pop into this gargantuan foodie paradise.

Chefs, restaurant owners or just about anyone interested in cooking can be spotted stocking up on everything from Chinese teapots to casserole dishes, cutlery in bulk and even oldfashioned steak hotplates in the shape of cows.

For something more artistically curated check

Rest & refresh

CLOCKWISE FROM THIS IMAGE: Revive at Grassroots Book Room, colourful shophouses on Haji Lane, ceramics galore at 5b, indie reads by BooksActually, breezy browsing at Littered With Books, fresh finds from The Salad Shop. INSET LEFT: Joo Chiat souvenirs.

PHOTOGRAPHY SINGAPORE TOURISM BOARD

TURN THE PAGE In a city where chain

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From streetstyle to tailored DARREN LEE founded street-style site Shentonista in 2011 to prove that even Singaporeans working in the traditionally stuffy business district can dress fashionably.

“In Singapore, we have ngg.. several amazing bespoke FOLLOW: @ro tailors, like Kevin Seah, In Personam Custom Clothiers, and Dylan & Son. Renowned tailor Kevin Seah recently As a well-known stylist to moved to The Mill, a the stars in Singapore, NEO standalone building at Jalan LIRONG pops into designer Kilang, which is filled with boutiques and chain stores furniture warehouses and in the Orchard Road area automobile shops. For those every other day to pick up looking for a quick purchase, clothing samples for her he’s recently launched the fashion shoots. ready-to-wear Kevin Seah But when it comes to her own Black line,” Darren says. retail therapy, she prefers Darren also recommends hanging out at the quiet yet homegrown multi-label hipster Chip Bee Gardens stores Naiise and Keepers near Holland Village. for local designs, as well as Dover Street Market for high“I can spend an entire day fashion labels. here. It has transformed into an area for cool people and “Supplies & Company and you can find unique items by Tuckshop & Sundry Supplies local designers here,” Neo along Perak Road carry says. some of my favourite brands like Engineered Garments When she’s in this onceand Nigel Cabourn. For residential enclave, she locally-produced leather may visit homegrown luxe goods, there’s Omitir – find stationery and leather goods them at Inventory or online. store Bynd Artisan, which she loves for “customisable, “For an interesting take on high-quality notebooks streetwear, there’s Mash-Up that make good souvenirs and Revasseur that are for friends and family”. She stocked at Superspace [at also recommends Singapore Orchard Gateway].” designer Ong Shunmugam’s shentonista.sg boutique for its modern cheongsam dresses.

“I like having a freshly made waffle with ice-cream at Sunday Folks. It can get really crowded on weekends so get there early for a queue number. I may end my night with a drink at one of the bars in Holland Village – just across the road – which gets pretty happening at Darren Lee night.”

Under-theradar finds

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Explore I SINGAPORE

GARMENTS GALORE On Beach Road Private Affair Tailor can cut and sew you a bespoke shirt then ship it to your door (though you will need to spend three to five days in Singapore for the fitting session).

Before you leave the area, look out for Selfie Coffee. As its name hints, you can request your mugshot on your coldcoffee order and see your selfie etched into the coffee’s foamy layer using food colouring.

Another must-visit is Innit

the duo design unique prints inspired by colourful childhood memories

Bangkok at Ann Siang Road. This Thai clothing brand specialises in designs with artistic pleats and embellishments for women, young girls and even babies (guys, get your pleated bowties here too). Each style can be worn in reverse for twice the mileage.

For more wardrobe updates, The AC, also known as The Attaby Collective, is Londonborn Claire Chahil’s retail incubator for emerging brands based in Singapore. She chose a shophouse at Joo Chiat because “shophouses reflect principles of great design with lovely proportions such as high ceilings” and reflect Singapore’s unique heritage.

Claire stocks about 15 brands in her store, plus designs her own Attaby label of chic comfortable and tropicsappropriate wrap dresses, maxi dresses, separates

Singapore styling

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Pretty in print at The Salad Shop, playful designs from Onlewo (cushion and shirt), pick up the perfect present at The Salad Shop, homewares by Onlewo, a perfectly tailored shirt is the perfect Singapore memento.

PHOTOGRAPHY SINGAPORE TOURISM BOARD

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out Onlewo in Jalan Besar, probably one of the last areas in Singapore that hasn’t been completely overtaken by coldbrew coffee bars or Buddha bowl cafés. Nestled between old-school shops selling Taoist temple paraphernalia and traditional soybean curd, this intriguing store is the brainchild of self-taught designers Mike Tay and Eugene Yip. Their brand name is a colloquial take on the Chinese term for “a cosy warm home” and the duo design unique prints inspired by colourful childhood memories from their second-storey studio. These prints appear on evening bags, lampshades, wallpaper, scarves and coasters for sale on the retail floor below. If you want bespoke designs, Onlewo can also ship the result back home for you. A personal tip from Mike: try the paper-wrapped chicken at Hillman Restaurant on nearby Kitchener Road, an institution that opened in the 1960s.

Explore I SINGAPORE

and jumpsuits in silk, cotton, rayon and jersey. Her sizes range from UK8 to UK18 – a rarity in Singapore where clothing sizes generally stop at UK12 or UK14.

IN THE HOUSE Ask any savvy Singaporean

Sales storm From June to August, Singapore holds its annual Great Singapore Sale (known locally as the GSS).

WHAT TO EXPECT: Stores and malls offer discounts of up to 70 per cent on everything from homewares and electronics to clothing and toys. While most of the action is concentrated in the Orchard Road and Marina Bay belts, you may also find smaller shops elsewhere offering GSS buys.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Singapore from across the network.

PICTURED: Shophouses reborn on Haji Lane. LEFT: Sipping a selfie.

ABOVE: Seen in The AC window.

To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY SINGAPORE TOURISM BOARD, THE AC

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shopper and they will tell you that some of the best retail gems in the city are squirrelled away in old shophouses.

One historic enclave that has become a fave address for indie boutiques is Haji Lane, with stores such as Mondays Off and The Salad Shop found in local shophouses. The latter, by the way, isn’t a salad bar — its founders Mike Tan and Eileen Teo wanted their offerings to be always fresh, like a bowl of salad. Besides fashion accessories and clothing sourced from South Korea, New Zealand, Japan, India and Hong Kong, they retail homewares including vases and candleholders, as well as locally made Thow Kwang Pottery items and Ania Skincare.

Over at Mondays Off, bestsellers include handmade Oh!eaf ceramics, designed in Singapore and produced in the town and ceramics hub of Jingdezhen. There are also hand-poured Mondays Off candles, made by owners Leyna Poh and Soh Kair Ruo with help from family members, and the limited-edition design ranges of Singapore clothing brand Ellysage.

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The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 36 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne.

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Explore I INTERVIEW

Life is a cabaret

The biggest of its kind in the world, the Adelaide Cabaret Festival (8-23 June) features both family-friendly and eyebrow-raising performances.

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Winner!

K-Zone and Total recently called ou Girl t to of Australia to see the kids who had the makings of a Jetst Blogger. Six cleve ar Junior r won a flight to the winners Australian destination of the ir choosing.

Christchurch School of Music students hit a high note

T

he Christchurch School of Music – a not-forprofit with a strong focus on enabling musical opportunities for children throughout the community – is the latest recipient of the $30,000 Jetstar Flying Start Grant. The grant will enable the group of more than 60 young musicians to perform in two competitions in Wellington

this coming August: the Wellington Band and Orchestra Festival, and the New Zealand Concert Bands Association Festival.

Outreach Band Director and Coordinator of the Christchurch School of Music, Maree Parr, says the grant is a huge boost for the students, staff and supporters, providing an opportunity that would otherwise be unimaginable.

Are you eligible?

Jetstar’s Flying Start Program invites community groups across Australia and New Zealand to apply for a $30,000 grant to fund a project that will enrich the lives of people in their local community. Applications are now open.

Visit jetstar.com to enter.

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

HITTING A WALL IN TASSIE Renowned travel writer Robin Esrock is taking his family across Australia in search of unique experiences. This month he launches feet first into Tasmania.

To be honest, it’s something I would expect to find in New Zealand. Zorbing, canyon swinging, swooping, body flying – Kiwis love combining thrills with gravity. Hoisting myself onto the edge of a 140-metre high concrete dam wall, I’m actually grateful that the world’s highest commercial abseil is in Australia. If this were New Zealand, they would expect me to bungy jump off the thing; abseiling is far gentler and more enjoyable. Controlling your own descent, it allows you to look around and appreciate your surroundings, which is something one should do often in beautiful southwest Tasmania.

The Gordon River has the largest supply of freshwater in Australia, and with the blessing of Hydro Tasmania, Aardvark Adventures have been operating their Gordon Dam abseil adventure for more than 20 years.

It’s a bucket-list day trip out of Hobart, driving through stunning mountainous countryside to the mighty dam wall.

Your ropes can support two tons of weight, and there are various safety mechanisms to ensure a smooth ride to the base of the wall. You can choose to fly quickly to the bottom, or dangle mid-air and take in the valley views. In fact, I did both. Aardvark’s ticket includes as many descents as you’d like, providing you’re fit enough to keep climbing the steep 480 service ladder rungs to the top.

Robin Esrock’s book, The Great Australian Bucket List, will be published in October. Follow his journey at @robinesrock or esrockingkids.com

It’s a long way down

Project Gen Z

IN 2014, AFTER A LIFE-changing visit to the children’s not-forprofit Sunrise Cambodia, Liz Volpe decided that enough was enough. It was time to follow her dreams and put her skills as an entrepreneur to the test.

With husband Jesse, and a team of successful Australian entrepreneurs, Liz launched Project Gen Z and the ‘Dare to Dream’ workshops, with the aim to educate, inspire and activate the next generation of world changers.

Since the first workshops were launched in Cambodia in 2015, the results have been staggering. Project Gen Z has provided 2000 disadvantaged young people with life and entrepreneurial skills in

Australian schools and overseas communities, and raised $450,000 for its charity partners.

This year the company will launch workshops in North Queensland to 100 Indigenous young people in the hope of inspiring more young people to follow their dreams and passions.

Kooks Social Winery is proud to support Liz and the life-changing work of Project Gen Z. For more information go to projectgenz.com.au Support this and other great causes by purchasing Kooks wine on board your flight. kooks.com.au

151

Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

Life at Jetstar

Meet Nathan!

WORKING AT JETSTAR is quite a ride. You’ll be supported to develop and explore, and your work will connect people and enrich lives. We can’t promise there won’t be challenges, but that’s what adventure is all about.

The satisfaction and sense of achievement makes for an amazing career.

But don’t just take our word for it. We talked to team members from across Australia and New Zealand about their Jetstar adventures. Read Nathan Braddy’s story below, or visit Life at Jetstar: Jetstar.com/au/en/careers/life-at-jetstar 152 152

Join the team jetstar.com/au/en/careers

NATHAN BRADDY Job Title: A320 First Officer | No. of years at Jetstar: 6 Location: Melbourne How did you end up at Jetstar?

I began my flight training in the Yarra Valley in 2006 where I completed my private pilot licence studies. I was fortunate enough to be accepted into Jetstar’s Cadet Pilot program ... and joined the airline in 2012.

Describe a typical day: My day starts in the Jetstar crew room generally 60-90 minutes before departure. Here we discuss flight plans, fuel, weather and aircraft specifics with the Captain, and give the cabin crew a quick brief on any pertinent information before we head out to the aircraft. A day’s flying can range from four to 11 hours in the air, and may involve one to four flights, either terminating back in our home port or overnighting out of base.

Greatest challenge?

Adapting to the ever-changing environment that is aviation. We deal with a wide variety of teams, from engineers, re-fuellers and ground staff to cabin crew, air traffic control and pilots in other aircraft. Learning to work succinctly together with these teams as well as focusing on our priorities as pilots has been an exciting and challenging experience.

Career highlight?

Unquestionably my first flight on the Airbus A320. To be at the controls, taking off and landing the aircraft after years of training was a dream come true and a day I will never forget.

What do you like most about working for Jetstar?

I love that Jetstar is continuously

Ever wanted to work in aviation? Adventure awaits.

growing and presenting career progression and opportunities. New aircraft are always just around the corner, and with this comes Captain positions. Overseas secondments with our Jetstar partners are regularly available, as is the ability to be involved in our head office departments. I am lucky enough to be currently undertaking a position in the Pilot Training department.

What do you love about aviation?

Although cliché, I love that my career has never felt like work. It is a pleasure flying for a living. Monotony is never a question in aviation as no two days are ever the same. I am constantly presented with new challenges as a pilot and learning every day I go flying.

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Essentials I CHANGING LIVES

THAILAND I STARKIDS

Children take a stand How students in Thailand are addressing violence against children WORDS MEGAN ANDERSON

STARKIDS DONATION TALLY

PHOTO WORLD VISION

Chart shares his ideas for ending violence against children. INSET: Mue shares a drawing of joy and violence in her community.

IN THAILAND’S mountainous Chiang Rai Province, students are working together to end child violence.

As part of a StarKidsfunded program, Thai and ethnic minority students aged from 10-12 came together to brainstorm ways to promote child protection. Their idea?

Spread the word.

Sixth-grader Chart suggested displaying posters in schools and organising awarenessbuilding activities on Thailand National Children’s Day, held every January, to help stop children becoming victims of violence.

In 2013, Thailand’s Ministry of Public Health reported that more than 19,000 children – around 52 a day – are treated

This year*

$769,507 Total

$9,932,456 in hospitals across the country due to physical and sexual abuse. And more than 50 per cent of children in Thailand have experienced violent punishment by parents, guardians or teachers.

During the discussion, brochures with information around child abuse – whether physical, emotional or sexual – were given to students.

Additionally, the children were taught about their four basic rights: the right to survival, protection, development, and

participation.

One girl, sixth-grader Mue, shared two pictures she’d drawn to depict joy and violence in her community. For her, joy is a family living together and loving each other, while abuse is shown as a married couple quarrelling.

StarKids is actively supporting Thailand’s End Violence Against Children campaign, which addresses all forms of abuse against children, including neglect.

The campaign promotes reporting abuse through the hotline 1300, which also has standby interpreters for migrants.

You can help!

MAKE YOUR DESTINATION A BETTER PLACE FOR CHILDREN Through StarKids, Jetstar and World Vision Australia are partnering to improve the lives of children and communities in need.

Your donations to StarKids help support community-based development projects across South East Asia, Australia and New Zealand. These projects cover a range of activities, including education and leadership development in Australia and New Zealand, child protection in Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, improving health in Indonesia, and increasing incomes in Cambodia.

By supporting StarKids, you can help transform communities living in poverty and give children a brighter future.

A proportion of inflight donations are used to pay for their collation and transfer to World Vision Australia.

Donate your loose change onboard today, when booking your next flight with Jetstar, or online at STARKIDS.JETSTAR. COM where you’ll find more information.

Your small change today could change a life tomorrow!

JETSTAR.COM

*Funds raised in current financial year as of February 2018. Total raised since 2007.

155

Explore Essentials I INTERVIEW I INFLIGHT

YOUR FLIGHT I TIPS & FACTS

JET LAG BUSTERS Give jet lag the cold shoulder using these handy tips and tricks

DID you KNOW ?

156

The Boeing 787 was designed with weary travellers in mind – the plane’s windows are 30 per cent bigger than the industry standard (letting more natural light flood into the cabin); it features almost double the average humidity on commercial planes (your skin will thank you); and offers increased cabin pressure (meaning passengers experience less fatigue, as the body absorbs more oxygen into the blood). All of Jetstar’s long-haul routes are serviced by 787 Dreamliners.

What to eat….

When you need to sleep, try foods rich in sleep-promoting amino acid tryptophan, such as rice, pasta, potatoes, poultry and fish.

Other foods worth tracking down are cherries (which contain the body’s natural sleep hormone melatonin) and bananas (which are full of magnesium and potassium, two minerals that help us fall and stay asleep).

Eggs, meanwhile, contain vitamin B12, which helps encourage wakefulness.

… AND WHAT TO AVOID

It’s well-known that caffeine and alcohol aren’t your best friends on long-haul flights (hello dehydration and sleep disruption), but it’s also best to avoid heavy, high-fat meals, which are difficult to digest and may lead to a restless night.

GO EASY ON YOURSELF Even if you follow all the rules in the book, it still takes time to adjust: studies have found that it takes a full day to recover from each time zone you travel through. But if you’re deadset against jet lag, consider a destination that’s in a similar time zone to your home (for example Bali if you reside in Perth, or Japan if you’re based on Australia’s east coast).

SET YOUR WATCH As soon as you hop on the plane, reset your watch to the local time at your destination.

It will help you mentally adjust to the change and encourage you to adapt your habits, too.

EAT

smart

Changes in routine can disrupt our body clocks.

To help reset them, studies have shown that altering meal times can help, by regulating sugar metabolism. Think about your dining habits at least 12 hours in advance of the first morning in your new destination – for example, consider skipping dinner if it’s past bedtime in your destination, and instead hold out until it’s breakfast.

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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

INTERNATIONAL Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Tokyo (Narita)

Zhengzhou

Nagoya (Chubu)

Osaka (Kansai)

Shanghai (Pudong)

Guangzhou Hanoi Dong Hoi

Chiang Mai

Yangon Bangkok

Shantou

Okinawa Taipei

Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Da Nang Clark Siem Reap Phnom Penh

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phuket Hat Yai Penang 158 Medan

Kuala Lumpur

Pekanbaru

Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya Bali (Denpasar)

Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane Gold Coast Perth Adelaide

Sydney Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland Wellington Christchurch

Queenstown

Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

DOMESTIC VIETNAM

DOMESTIC JAPAN

Hanoi Hai Phong

Sapporo

Tha nh Hoa V inh Dong Hoi Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku Quy Nhon

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Matsuyama Osaka (Kansai) Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kumamoto Kagoshima Miyazaki

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot

Phu Quoc

Nha Trang Da Lat

Ho Chi Minh City Flights are operated by Jetstar Japan and commence 6 September, subject to regulatory approval

Okinawa

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

Auckland New Plymouth Nelson

Darwin

Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Napier Palmerston North Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Ballina Byron Perth

Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide Melbourne (Avalon) Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 3 August, subject to regulatory approval Operated by Jetstar Airways

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Launceston Hobart

Auckland

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

159

AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

Plump for Byron’s hinterland

Arriving at our destinations How to get from the airport to town

161

Adelaide

Ballina/Byron

9km 20 mins Approx $20-30 Route J1 or J2 every 15-30 mins. Route J1X every hour.

Tickets from $3.20-$5.10.

Blanch’s Bus route 640 connects to Ballina, Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby.

From $3.80 adult.

Auckland

TO BYRON BAY 31km 30 mins Approx $80-90 Various shuttle buses available. Prices start at $20. Enquire at airport information desk.

22km 30 mins Approx NZ$75-90 SkyBus. Every 10-30 mins. Adult NZ$16, child NZ$6; return: adult NZ$28, child NZ$12.

Takes 40-60 mins 380 Airporter bus service to Manukau City Centre.

Every 20-30 mins, NZ$5.

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY

Ayers Rock/Uluru 6km (Ayers Rock Resort) 10 mins Complimentary shuttle buses to Ayers Rock Resort meet every flight. Taxis not available.

TO BALLINA 5km 7 mins Approx $15-20.

Brisbane 16km 25 mins Approx $40-50 Con-x-ion Bus. Every 40 mins. Adult $20, return $36. $10 for additional passengers.

Airtrain. Every 15 mins approx. Adult $17; return $32.

Cairns 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Sun Palm Shuttle.

Adult $15, child $7.50. Also operates to Port Douglas: adult $44, child $23.50.

Christchurch 12km 20 mins Approx NZ$45-$65 Super Shuttle. NZ$24 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Metro Bus Purple line or 29: Every 30 mins. Adult NZ$8, child NZ$5; return: adult NZ$14, child NZ$8.50.

Darwin 13km 15 mins Approx $20-30 Darwin Airport Shuttle.

Meets all flights. Adult $18, child $8; return: adult $30, child $14. Group discounts available.

Dunedin 30km 30 mins Approx NZ$90-100 Super Shuttle, NZ$30 for one person, NZ$10 for additional passengers.

Gold Coast 23km (Surfers Paradise) 40 mins $65 flat rate to Surfers Paradise. $55 flat rate to Broadbeach. See rank supervisor for fare voucher.

Con-x-ion Bus. Every 15-30 mins. Adult $22, child $13; return: adult $41, child $22 (bookings essential).

Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle.

Adult $21, child $13; return:

AUSTRALIAN & NZ AIRPORTS

adult $41, child $21.

Bus 777 and 760. Every 30 mins. Tickets from $8.60.

Hamilton Island 5 mins Free airport transfers offered to guests of selected hotels and holiday homes.

Hobart 19km 20 mins Approx $40-50 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Launceston 162

15km 15 mins Approx $30-40 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Mackay TO MACKAY 7km 15 mins Approx $15-25.

TO AIRLIE BEACH 160km 2 hours Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $69, child (4-15 yrs) $35; return: adult $120, child $60.

Melbourne (Avalon) TO GEELONG 20km 25 mins Approx $50 Airport Shuttle. Adult $22, child $15; return: $34. Also operates to Bellarine, adult $30, child $16, return: $60; and Great Ocean Rd: adult $32, child $26, return: $64.

TO MELBOURNE CBD 55km 45 mins

Approx $130 Sita Coaches to Melbourne. Adult $22, child $10; return: $42.

Melbourne (Tullamarine) 25km 25 mins Approx $60-70 SkyBus. Every 10 mins. Adult $18, child $9; return: adult $36, child $18. Skybus operates Express to Southern Cross Station with free city hotel shuttle connections and services to St Kilda and Frankston.

Napier/Hawke’s Bay 6km 10 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Super Shuttle to Napier, NZ$20 for one person, NZ$7 for additional passengers.

TO HASTINGS NZ$43, and Havelock North NZ$45. Village Shuttle to Hastings, NZ$38, and Havelock North NZ$40, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Nelson 8km 15 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Nelson Shuttle NZ$18 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers; Super Shuttle NZ$19 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Newcastle 27km 40 mins Approx $70-80 Shuttle Bus, $40 for one person; $10 for additional passengers.

Enquire at airport information desk.

Port Stephens Coach route 130. Adult $4.60, child $2.30.

New Plymouth 12km 15 mins Approx NZ$40 Scotts Airport Shuttle (bookings preferred).

From NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Palmerston North 5km 10 mins Approx NZ$20 Super Shuttles.

Adult NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Perth 12km (domestic terminal); 19km (international terminal) 40 mins Approx $35-45 Perth Airport Connect.

Tickets $15; return: $30.

Transperth Bus 40 from T3/T4. Route 380 from T1/T2. Tickets from $4.50.

Queenstown 8km 10 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$6 for additional passengers.

Connectabus. Every 15 mins. Adult NZ$12; child NZ$5.50.

Sunshine Coast TO NOOSA 30km 30 mins Approx $80 Henry’s Airporter shuttle bus. Adult $30, child $16; return: adult $60, child $32.

Translink Bus 622, adult $9.70, child $4.80.

TO MAROOCHYDORE 9km 12 mins Approx $23 Con-x-ion buses. Adult $20, child $12, return: adult $40, child $22.

TransLink Bus 622.

Adult $5.60, child $2.80.

Sydney 8km 20 mins Approx $45-55 Airport Link train from domestic and international terminals. Every 10 mins approx (weekdays). Gate Pass: Adult $13.80, child $12.40, plus cost of rail component.

Townsville 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Airport shuttle.

Adult $10, child $5.

Wellington 8km 25 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Airport Flyer route 91 bus. Every 10-20 mins.

Adult NZ$6-$12, child NZ$4-$7.

Whitsunday Coast/Proserpine Airlie Beach 40km 35 mins Approx $90 Whitsunday Transit.

Adult $18, child $13.

Whitsunday Transfers.

Adult $18, child $13; return: adult $34, child $18.

Bookings not required.

WE WILL KEEP YOU UNDER THE WEIGHT LIMIT

ONE MEMBERSHIP GETS ACCESS TO ALL CLUBS NSW: Albury Maitland Marconi Penrith Tweed Heads VIC: South Morang WA: Malaga

QLD: Ashmore Burleigh Burpengary Bundaberg Capalaba Cairns Daisy Hill Ipswich Mackay Maroochydore North Lakes Rockhampton Surfers Paradise Toowoomba Townsville Yeerongpilly

PASSPORT MEMBERSHIP AVAILABLE AT PARTICIPATING LOCATIONS

COMING TO 50 LOCATIONS

AROUND AUSTRALIA

FACILITIES VARY BETWEEN CLUBS BUT THEY GENERALLY INCLUDE: 24HR ACCESS | CRECHE WITH KIDS PLAY CENTRE | CYCLE STUDIO BOXING STUDIO | COMFORT ZONE | CARDIO DECK | OVER 200 CLASSES HEALTHY CAFE | PRO SHOP | MEMBERS LOUNGE | LEG ZONE | SAUNAS LADIES PAMPER ROOM WITH HAIR STRAIGHTENERS | OUTDOOR TRAINING AREA FUNCTIONAL TRAINING AREA | STATE OF THE ART EQUIPMENT

Franchise opportunities available – for more info visit myworldgym.com.au

Visit Melbourne’s sporting heart, the MCG

NATIONAL SPORTS MUSEUM Home to Australia’s largest sporting collection at Australia’s home of sport, the MCG. This contemporary space boasts interactive games for visitors of all ages, 3D holograms of sporting stars like Shane Warne, and memorabilia from some of our country’s biggest sporting heroes.

Head to mcg.org.au/nsm for more information and opening times.

MCG TOURS Nothing can match the tradition and heritage of the iconic Melbourne Cricket Ground.

Take a guided tour of the MCG and explore areas many do not get to see or experience including the famous MCC Long Room, change rooms and of course, the hallowed arena itself.

Head to mcg.org.au/tours for more details and opening times.

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS, STUDIOSPARTELS.COM

Kids puzzles

165

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Puzzles

CROSSWORD ACROSS

DOWN

1 A massive shade-giving tree native to east coast Australia.

(7,3,3) 7 Very hot green chillies. (9) 9 To regret something is “to ‌ the dayâ€?. (3) 10 Anzac Cove is on what peninsula? (9) 12 What train travels from Sydney to Perth? (6,7) 15 “Baby you can drive my ‌â€?

The Beatles (1965) (3) 16 What did Monty Python search for in 1975? (4,5) 18 A colloquial abbreviation for “incognitoâ€?. (5) 19 The plural of data. (5) 20 Steve Austin was played by ‌ Majors in TV’s The Six Million Dollar Man (1973–78). (3) 21 Which New Zealand trees are used to make railway sleepers? (6,5)

1 What Australian cockatoo has a red and yellow crest? (5,8) 2 Where do you see a women’s roller skating sport? (6,7) 3 What kind of maps have graphic representations of features? (13) 4 What kind of floor coating minimises slipping? (3-3) 5 The colloquial name for a street vendor selling fish. (5) 6 Where do you read irrelevant news about celebrities? (6,7) 8 What sport can you do on snow or water? (3) 11 A Hawaiian dish made from baked taro root. (3) 13 A tooth on a wheel in a machine. (3) 14 To make flat. (7) 17 Australian TV awards are named after John ‌ Baird. (5) 19 What are hummus, guacamole and raita? (3)

167

CODEWORD & SUDOKU

7

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Puzzles

QUICK QUIZ Test your Queensland knowledge 9

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SOLUTIONS %

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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QUIZ ANSWERS 1_The southern cassowary 2_ Reef 3_Dwarf minke whale 4_True 5_Cape York Peninsula 6_b) 165 million years old 7_True 8_1770 9_b 10_18 11_The Big Marlin 12_b) Five times 13_a) Dive site

168

8. When was the Great Barrier Reef â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;discoveredâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; by British explorer Captain James Cook?

9. Approximately how much of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sugar cane is grown in Queensland?

A) 55 per cent B) 95 per cent C) 5 per cent 10. How many of the Torres Strait Islands are inhabited?

11. Cairns is home to what â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;big thingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, measuring 10m tall and standing outside a shopping centre?

12. Queensland is how many times bigger than Japan?

A) Two times B) Five times C) Seven times 13. Queenslandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cod Hole is a renowned what?

A) Dive site B) Local culinary delicacy C) Whirlpool that forms off the coast of Lizard Island

1. What flightless bird, native to the tropical forests of Papua New Guinea, Indonesia and Tropical North Queensland (TNQ), can weigh up to 83kgs?

2. Cape Tribulation's popular tourism slogan: â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Where the rainforest meets the _____â&#x20AC;&#x2122;?

3. The ribbon reef off Port Douglas is the only place in Australia where tour operators are permitted to allow people to swim with what kind of whales?

4. True or false: the Wet Tropics of Queensland (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is one of Australia's most biodiverse areas?

5. What is the northernmost point of Australia?

6. How old is the Daintree â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the oldest continuously surviving tropical rainforest in the world?

A) 500,000 years old B) 165 million years old C) Four billion years old 7. True or false: Tully, in TNQ, is the wettest town in Australia, with an average annual rainfall exceeding 4000 millimetres?

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Inflight

Entertainment EXCITING CONTENT, GREAT VALUE!

© 2017 CTMG, Inc. © 2018 Entertainment One.

$10

AUD Blockbuster movies TV comedy and drama Kids’ favourites Hit music Games

© 2017 Warner Brothers.

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More kids’ content these school holidays

171

© 2018 Marvel.

© 2017 Universal City Studio, LLC.

© 2018 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

Be entertained en route to your destination – we’ve got a great selection of movies, top TV comedy and drama series, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and games to choose from. Follow the guide to see what’s available.

PRE-PURCHASE AND SAVE Purchase inflight entertainment when you book your flight and save!

General

Parental guidance recommended

Recommended for mature audiences

Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian

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Untrained melody A foray into Tokyo’s live music scene proves an education

176

THERE’S a feeling of expectation as the band sets up to play – a hush across this dark, smoky room that seems slightly confused. Maybe even the locals don’t know what’s about to happen. Maybe even Tokyo’s hardcore music fans are a little perplexed about what they’re about to see.

It’s not so much the musicians, it’s their instruments. You could spot the difference the moment they walked on stage: a guy arrived with a pair of drumsticks but no drums, instead lugging a large steel spiral suspended from a metal frame; a bass player set up his guitar and then began arranging iced-coffee cans on top of his amp; a bespectacled lead singer, a John Lennon lookalike, put up a small table and began to pile it high with children’s toys – a plastic xylophone, fluffy animals, a kids’ keyboard – and with a mountain of wires that seemed to connect them all.

And so the crowd is now hushed and respectful, but also clearly perplexed.

Who are these guys? What are they going to do?

I didn’t come here to see this band in particular. I came to this club, 20000V in the Tokyo suburb of

Higashi-Kōenji, to have an experience, see something different, go to a live music venue with no idea of who would be playing or even what they would sound like, and see what this amazing city could throw at me.

This is, after all, the Tokyo I love: the oddball Tokyo, the unpredictable Tokyo, the Tokyo where anything goes. And tonight, anything could go.

“He just said he’s sorry for taking so long, he’s nervous,” my friend whispers to me in the darkness, explaining what

And tonight, anything could go the lead singer mumbled to the crowd. There’s another pause after that, a silence while we wait for the band to finally start, to see what these guys could possibly do.

And then the room explodes with noise. The steel spiral shudders and howls as the drummer beats it with his sticks.

The bass player rakes

the strings of his instrument with the tin cans, producing this otherworldly shriek. The singer’s toys bleep and squawk and whirr.

I’m a fan of heavy metal music, but these guys are playing actual pieces of heavy metal. And it sounds horrendous.

I stumble out of the tiny bunker of a club both amused and confused, asking myself – as so often happens in this spectacular city – what was that?

To this day, I couldn’t even tell you.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

WORDS BEN GROUNDWATER

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