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jetstar MAGAZINE

AUGUST 2017

MAGAZINE

BRISBANE I MELBOURNE I NOOSA I CYCLING

COVER STORY

SPICE ISLAND DISCOVER THE FLAVOURS OF BALI

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journey to Rarotonga and Aitutaki in the Cook Islands is the perfect island escape. Rest and relaxation, romance, family fun, activity and adventure. You can have it all in this tropical paradise. Everywhere the scenery is spectacular. From turquoise blue lagoons fringed by coral reefs and stunning white-sand beaches to craggy volcanic peaks and dense jungles, it’s picture perfect and awe-inspiring. There is a wide variety of accommodation with a choice for all budgets; from self-contained family villas to luxurious five star couples-only retreats, backpacker hostels and full-service resorts.

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People often ask which side of Rarotonga they should stay on. There are a variety of hotels, resorts and holiday homes all over the island, but most are located between Muri Beach and the western side of Rarotonga. Muri Beach has motus (small islands) just off the beach that can be swum or paddled to. Most resorts provide kayaks and snorkelling gear free of charge too. There is also a wide variety of restaurants all within walking distance. As you head around the island towards the western side, there is accommodation of all types and this is also where you will find the late afternoon sun and amazing sunsets.

Rarotonga Just 32 km in circumference, you can drive around the island in just 40 minutes. Rarotonga has the widest range of scenery, activities, accommodation, restaurants and cafés too. It has been said that Rarotonga is like one big resort – because people get out and about and don’t just stay in their hotel. There are beaches with no-one on them and you can stop and spend as long or as little time as you like there. The multitude of cafés and restaurants around the island just have to be experienced. The food is so good with a huge variety on offer. Many holidaymakers are content just

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to enjoy Rarotonga’s relaxed environment with its warm lagoon and lush tropical mountains. There’s nothing better than a day lying on the beach, snorkelling, swimming, snoozing or simply admiring the scenery from your hammock. But while Rarotonga is perfect for relaxing and re-charging, it also has plenty of activities and cultural experiences to entertain you for days. For some soft adventure, take Pa’s Cross Country Trek, which traverses the island’s mountains including the iconic Needle. Take a four-wheel drive adventure tour, hire quad bikes or take a buggy tour, learn to paddleboard or scuba dive, go night diving, kite surfing or big game fishing.

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A lagoon cruise on a glass-bottomed boat is a must-do. You can snorkel alongside tropical fish before going ashore on a palm-fringed motu for a barbecue lunch and entertainment involving coconuts, sarongs, music and a good old laugh at life in general. Many resorts have their own island night with traditional music and dancing. And there are spectacular shows at the award-winning Highland Paradise Cultural Centre, set in an ancient mountain village at Arorangi, or the stunning theatrical over-water performance at Te Vara Nui in Muri Beach. No matter where you are or what you want to do, the whole island is yours to enjoy.

Aitutaki Often called the honeymoon island, Aitutaki is pure paradise. Only a 40-minute flight north of Rarotonga, it’s spectacularly beautiful, with a triangular-shaped reef surrounding a bright turquoise lagoon containing 15 small motus. The crystal-clear water is home to bright tropical fish and its pristine white-sand beaches are private and secluded. Exploring the lagoon is an absolute must. Book a lagoon cruise to visit the outer motus and have lunch on One Foot Island, which some consider to be the most beautiful beach in the whole of the South Pacific.

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ON THE COVER: Balinese women carrying temple offerings PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES

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Set sail

contents AUGUST 2017

EXPERIENCE

68

8 I WHAT’S ON

46 I EYE IN THE SKY Australia seen from on high

10 I NEWS 14 I MY PLACE Explore Sydney with crooner Dan Sultan

16 I THE SHORTLIST Exotic movie snacks

18 I HOW-TO Navigate Hoi An’s tailors

20 I IMBIBE

22

EXPLORE

56-74 I DESTINATION OF THE MONTH Discover the best of Bali

76 I HIGH COUNTRY New Zealand’s stunning Mackenzie Country

82 I BRISBANE’S BEST A retail guide to the Queensland capital

91 I LITERARY CITY

Unwind with a cup of tea

Melbourne for bookworms

22 I FOOD ICON

97 I NATURALLY NOOSA

The Cook Islands’ iconic raw fish dish

The waterways and wilds of Noosa

25 I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

103 I ON YOUR BIKE

Explore trendy Taipei

29 I FATHERS DAY Get ready to spoil Dad

33 I BEAUTY ON THE FLY Stop time in its tracks

34 I SUITS YOU

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Explore these cities on two wheels

111 I SET OUT FROM SYDNEY Journey to these NSW regional hubs

152 I BACKPAGE Tales from row 57

To dye or not to dye

36 I HEALTH Get your kicks in Thailand

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38 I SPA & WELLNESS

ESSENTIALS

Balancing chakras in Byron Bay

126 I Jetstar news

40 I RECIPE

134 I Where we fly

Modern Vietnamese with Melbourne’s Jerry Mai

138 I Games and puzzles

42 I WORK & PLAY

145 I Entertainment

The gamers making a business of play

guide

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Welcome I GROUP CEO

More low fares and options EDITORIAL For all editorial enquiries, please email JetstarMedia@hardiegrant.com Account director Tiffany Sayers Managing editor, Jetstar Ingrid Nason Editor Justine Costigan Deputy editor Krysia Bonkowski Subeditor Leanne Tolra Art director Robert Bertagni Designer Natalie LaChina Picture editor Janet Gomes

ADVERTISING Sales Director Mark Wooldridge +61 2 9857 3719 or email markwooldridge@hardiegrant.com

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA Managing Director Nick Hardie-Grant

FOR FLIGHT RESERVATIONS

Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website: jetstar.com FOR HOTEL BOOKINGS & HOLIDAY PACKAGES

To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia, 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts in New Zealand, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels JETSTAR MAGAZINE

is published for Jetstar Airways by Hardie Grant Media Building 1, 658 Church Street Richmond, Victoria, 3121, Australia

PHOTO LAUREN BAMFORD

+61 3 8520 6444 hardiegrantmedia.com

© Hardie Grant Media. All material in Jetstar Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsiblity for the effects arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. All information is correct at press time. MCI (P) 171/01/2015. Jetstar Magazine is printed by Offset Alpine Printing.

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We’re making the world accessible to more and more people

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ver the past year, our customers have paid an average of only eight Australian cents per kilometre flown on Jetstar. That’s eight times cheaper than driving, based on the average cost of fuel a car consumes in Australia. We’re making the world accessible to more and more people, with 24 million fares sold for under $100 this past year alone. We now fly to 85 destinations, connecting 170 cities directly point to point. To keep our fares low and provide you with more choice, we are continually looking at new and creative products and innovative technology.

This month, I invite you to check out our FlexiBiz bundle at Jetstar.com, which is now available via our website in Australia, New Zealand and Asia. The FlexiBiz bundle allows you to move your flight for free on the day of travel, get vouchers for unused flights, take extra carryon baggage and select an upfront seat at no extra charge. We know many people who regularly travel with us – particularly small businesses – want added flexibility to change their flight, plus some simple onboard extras to make their travel as easy as possible. Originally designed for businesses, the FlexiBiz fare is now available to everyone via Jetstar.com. In Australia and New Zealand, we’ve also just launched Jetstar FareShare, which makes group bookings simple, with the option to split the bill across the group you are travelling with when it comes time to pay. Now one person can book a group of friends or family travelling together and you can all split the bill at the point of check-out. I encourage you to look into these two new exciting products next time you’re planning to fly. To learn more go to Jetstar.com. Thanks for travelling with us today and I hope you have a great trip.

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Jayne Hrdlicka Jetstar Group CEO

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Island dreaming

Newly opened Bawah Island has leapt straight to the top of our bucket lists. Off the coast of Singapore, this luxury escape is the perfect spot to see out the last days of winter.

PHOTO BAWAH ISLAND

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LIFE I STYLE I PEOPLE I PLACES I NEWS

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

August

Love fishing? Register now for the NT’s Million Dollar Fish competition!

Add these fun and fascinating things happening across the Jetstar network to your bucket list this month

Ballarat International Foto Biennale 19 August to 17 September Ballarat, Victoria

Headlined this year by David LaChapelle, one of modern photography’s greatest icons, the Biennale brings a wealth of stunning images to the historic town of Ballarat.

CinefestOZ

23-27 August Busselton, Western Australia Western Australia’s beautiful Busselton, Bunbury, Dunsborough and Margaret River regions open their cinemas, vineyards, bars and galleries to cinema buffs with French and Australian cinema celebrated side by side during this iconic screen festival. cinefestoz.com

ballaratfoto.org

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1-31 August Adelaide, South Australia

Ekka

Vin Diemen

Beervana

More than 400,000 people are expected to turn out to help the Royal Queensland Show, known as Ekka, see in its 140th birthday. Country life comes to the city with some of the state’s best producers, a country music showdown, nurseries of cute farm critters and even a whipcracking competition. ekka.com.au

Brought to you by Wine Tasmania, the Apple Isle goes on tour with a taste of the small state’s big wine and food scene. Savour some of Tassie’s finest sparkling, chardonnay and pinot, sample fine southern spirits and try the wares of renowned local producers. vindiemen.com.au

A Willy Wonka experience for beer lovers, this two-day celebration includes interactive displays, brewery pop-up bars, food vendors and craft beers of every variety. If two days isn’t enough, ride the frothy wave a week earlier at Road to Beervana celebrations around the country. beervana.co.nz

11-20 August Brisbane, Queensland

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Sydney (12 August) and Melbourne (13 August) Sydney and Melbourne

11-12 August Wellington, New Zealand

The South Australian Living Artists Festival, or SALA, is the single largest visual arts festival in the country. Everything from sculpture and painting to mixed media and performance art will be hosted by galleries, studios, cafés, wineries, restaurants and community centres statewide. salafestival.com

PHOTOGRAPHY SINGAPORE NIGHT FESTIVAL, DAVID LACHAPELLE, ALICIA BENNETT, GETTY

SALA

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Experience I WHAT’S ON

National Science Week

SINGAPORE

It’s a great month to…

12-20 August Australia wide Expand your horizons and discover new ways to look at the world during National Science Week. With events happening all over Australia, there’s bound to be something to get the cogs turning. scienceweek.net.au

WATCH models strut in the latest fashions at New Zealand Fashion Week in Auckland, 28 August to 3 September.

Melbourne International Film Festival 3-20 August Melbourne, Victoria

SEE a different side to the Sunshine Coast during Noosa Open Studios from 18 to 20 August, when close to 50 local artists open their studios to the public.

Australia’s oldest film festival is a beloved Melbourne winter ritual. Expect acclaimed films, panels, lectures and more. miff.com.au

Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair (DAAF) 11-13 August Darwin, Northern Territory

Coinciding with the Darwin Festival (10-27 August), DAAF exhibits works from more than 2000 artists, alongside fashion, film and performances. darwinaboriginalartfair.com.au

Singapore Night Festival 18-26 August Singapore

The heritage buildings of Bras Basah Bugis are lit up with interactive displays during this popular festival, while food vendors and performers amuse the crowds until late.

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KEEP calm and drink a cuppa during the Sydney Tea Festival at Carriageworks on 20 August.

nightfest.sg

Audi quattro Winter Games 25 August to 10 September Southern Alps, NZ

Snow-sports stars from the world over head to New Zealand’s Southern Alps for one of the world’s top five winter sports competitions, and the only one in the Southern Hemisphere. wintergamesnz.kiwi

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Experience I NEWS

INTERVIEW

Q&A with Tash Sultana INTERVIEW KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

almost more excited than I was. I couldn’t stop smiling.

Do you think you could have got this far without YouTube and social media? Definitely not as quickly, but music is what I was born to do, I would have found another way.

How would you describe your sound?

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Thanks for choosing to fly with us today – it’s great to have you on board. The final month of winter is here, and throughout August we expect nearly two million travellers to fly across Jetstar’s network. This winter, more travellers than ever before have flown with Jetstar to enjoy ski trips across Australia and New Zealand. Thousands of travellers have also chosen to escape the cold, taking advantage of our low fares to sunny holiday hotspots like Honolulu, Thailand and Ho Chi Minh City. Bali remains an all-time favourite international getaway for Aussies, and every week we offer more than 60 return flights to Denpasar from eight cities in Australia. If you want to discover Canggu, Bali’s trendiest area, don’t miss our story on page 56 of this issue. Enjoy your flight with Jetstar and thank you for choosing us. See you again soon. Dean Salter, CEO Jetstar Australia and New Zealand

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Does the past year feel real yet? It’s still surreal hearing myself on the radio. I’ll walk into a shop or be at the airport and hear my songs playing; it’s weird.

How did it feel to take out third place in this year’s Triple J Hottest 100? I think my managers were

How many instruments can you play? It’s a never-ending total but so far: guitar, bass, drums and percussion, live beat making, oud, mandolin, trumpet, piano and pan pipes.

Do you miss busking? I would love to do it again, but I don’t really miss it.

What has been your favourite performance to date? Each show keeps getting better and better.

How do you stay grounded on tour? My team and the people I surround myself with make it pretty easy. Listen to Tash Sultana’s album Notion on Jetstar’s in-flight entertainment this month. tashsultana.com

Sick beats PHOTO DEAN GOLJA, DAVID BLIGHT

Welcome

It’s been just over a year since Tash Sultana’s song ‘Jungle’ went viral on YouTube, propelling the Melbourne-based busker to the top of the charts. The self-taught musician has gone on to conquer both commercial and alternative radio, headline festivals and sell out shows all over the country. We caught Tash on the road during her current world tour, which will keep her travelling around Europe and the US until November.

Genre-less – it’s a combination of all the sounds I like to hear. The music that I play usually has nothing to do with the music that I listen to – I just like all genres, I pride myself on being a non-genre artist.

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Experience I NEWS

FOODIE FINDS

Heaven on a stick

WE’RE LOVING

You beaut South Australian-based designer Julie White gives retro Australiana a sophisticated makeover, splashing her hand-drawn fauna and flora across silk scarves, socks and hosiery. Give spring a hurry-up by wrapping your legs in the colourful tights from her latest collection, Lola’s Garden. Wild Flowers Tights in

Pink, $55. juliewhite.com.au

SWEET AS Professional sweet-tooth Christy Tania opens her first permanent venue in Melbourne’s Windsor this month. At Glacé, the talented pastry and dessert chef will be offering signature sweets including her ice-cream push pops, along with a range of artisanal ice creams and frozen desserts. Just don’t tell your dentist.

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Find Glacé at 1A Peel Street, Windsor, Melbourne. glacefrozen.com

JUST OPENED

Paradise found

Get ready to reassess your #travelgoals. A hop, skip and a jump (by private sea plane) from Singapore, the newly opened Bawah Resort offers verdant green mountains, deserted whitesand beaches and three turquoise lagoons across six private islands in the marine conservation area of Indonesia’s Anambas Islands. With only 70 lucky guests at any one time, it won’t be hard to stake out your own patch of paradise. bawahisland.com

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Experience I NEWS

ASIAN ARTS

THREE OF A KIND

Malaysian street eats

This month Malaysia celebrates 60 years of independence. So it’s the perfect excuse to try some of the country’s delicious culinary treats.

Must see

Char kway teow

Roti canai

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Introduced by the Indian muslim ‘Mamak’ community, flaky, airy roti flat bread is one of Malaysia’s favourite breakfasts. Try it at one of Kuala Lumpur’s beloved mamak restaurants, such as Valentine Roti in Jalan Semarak, and pair it with a frothy mug of teh tarik, or ‘pulled tea’.

ABC

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Beat the sticky, tropical heat like a local, with ais kacang or ais batu campur (ABC). A bowl of shaved, sweetened ice topped with anything from red beans and sweet corn to grass jelly, more is definitely more when it comes to the ABC. Head to Ah Keong ABC & Cendol stall in Brickfields for one of KL’s most popular icy treats.

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Down the rabbit hole Housing one of the world’s most significant collections of contemporary 21st century Chinese art, the White Rabbit Gallery in Chippendale, Sydney, opens the second of its biannual exhibits later this month. With works from more than 20 artists from China and Taiwan, Ritual Spirit delves into the divide between the gods and the mortal world. Ritual Spirit runs from 30 August to 28 January, 2018. whiterabbitcollection.org

AT THE AIRPORT

FASHIONS TAKE FLIGHT Melbourne International Airport has begun to unveil the 11 high-end fashion stores coming to Terminal 2, a line-up including Burberry, Max Mara and a branch of iconic New York jewellery house Tiffany & Co. In Sydney, the ongoing transformation of T1 has delivered a 1900m² fashion precinct where passengers can now find brands such as Gucci and Jimmy Choo, along with the world’s largest standalone airport duty free. Waiting for your flight has never been more glamorous.

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, CHEN YU-LIN, TIANZHUO CHEN, SYDNEY AIRPORT

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Flat rice noodles tossed in a smoking wok with a dealer’s choice of prawns, cockles, sprouts, egg, lap cheong (Chinese sausage) and more, char kway teow is a Malaysian icon. The best hails from Penang island. Find the famous cart on Siam Road, or Ah Leng Char Koay Teow on Dato’ Keramat Road or Zoo Road.

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11/07/2017 7/7/17 10:18 2:19 AM PM


Experience I MY PLACE

man

Sydney is a second home for Melbourne-based muso Dan Sultan WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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ustralian singer/ songwriter Dan Sultan has spent the past decade breaking hearts and winning fans with his born-for-the-blues voice and renowned stage presence. With a national tour next month to support his fourth album Killer, Dan is cementing his place as one of Australia’s most

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significant performers. Melbourne born and based, frequent work trips to Sydney give Dan a welcome excuse to explore and unwind. “I’ve spent a lot of time in Sydney working and it’s a pleasure to be there,” he says. “It’s a really beautiful place. Not living in Sydney, coming here is a bit of a novelty to me.” Dan shares his favourite

I’ve spent a lot of time in Sydney working and it’s a pleasure to be there spots to work and play around the Harbour City. For tour dates see dansultan.com

GOLDEN CENTURY The Star, Pirrama Road, Pyrmont goldencentury.com.au Going to Golden Century is a bit of a tradition for touring bands in Sydney and it’s an institution in Chinatown. The massive Chinese restaurant is open until around 3am. It’s always packed, no matter what time of day or night you’re there. It’s really good for touring musicians who finish work at about midnight and then just go and have a big feed and a laugh to unwind.

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Experience I MY PLACE

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The Lady Hampshire, Opera Bar, Newtown’s Repressed Records.

LADY HAMPSHIRE

nsultanm FOLLOW: @da

usic

PHOTOGRAPHY STEVEN WOODBURN, DAMIEN ARKINS

Keep up to date with Dan on Instagram OPERA BAR

THE ENMORE THEATRE

Sydney Opera House Macquarie Street, Sydney operabar.com.au I’ve played at the Opera House quite a few times and afterwards we usually end up at Opera Bar, which hugs Circular Quay. Looking at the bridge and the water, the ferries and the lights of the city and Luna Park across the harbour – it’s a pretty special place. After doing a bit of work and feeling like you’ve accomplished something, it’s good to just go and spoil yourself.

118-132 Enmore Road, Newtown enmoretheatre.com.au I can’t go past The Enmore Theatre, it’s such a beautiful old building. It’s an institution, and a real marker – if you can play The Enmore and you can sell it out then you sort of feel like you’re moving in the right direction as a performer. I’ve been lucky enough to have been on stage when it has been sold out and it’s amazing.

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91 Parramatta Road, Camperdown ladyhampshire.com.au This is a great pub with an awesome beer garden and a really great vibe. I’ve been there a few times now and seen some friends playing music. Good scene, in a nice part of town too – the inner west.

REPRESSED RECORDS 413 King Street, Newtown repressedrecords.com I’ve always got to hold myself back a little bit with record stores, but it’s good fun to go and check one out. It can get away from me a little bit! All my friends chucked in for a birthday gift one year and gave me an excellent little turntable. It definitely gets a workout.

LANSDOWNE HOTEL 2-6 City Road, Chippendale The mighty Lansdowne Hotel has just reopened. It’s a great spot, right near Sydney Uni, and a bit of a legendary music venue. It is a multi-level venue in a really iconic part of Sydney – good vibes!

MARRICKVILLE BOWLING CLUB

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91 Sydenham Road, Marrickville marrickvillebowlingclub.com.au This is a classic, old bowls club, with a great energy. There are plenty of locals, old-school video games, a pool table and a classic band room. It has a great outdoor area and an awesome, relaxed vibe. Marrickville is one of my favourite Sydney suburbs.

WEBSTERS ROOFTOP 323 King Street, Newtown webstersbar.com.au I had dinner here recently for the first time and can recommend it. The rooftop restaurant and bar has a great view up King Street in Newtown, one of the best parts of the city. Great parmas!

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Sydney from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

11/07/2017 2:20 PM


Experience I THE SHORTLIST

A Taiwanese favourite

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4 3 1

5

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5 OF THE BEST

Global movie snacks Upgrade your popcorn and choc-tops for unusual culinary experiences from across the network WORDS EMILY WILSON

Popcorn and sweets are popular in Japanese cinemas, but iwashi senbei is also a fave. These pre-packaged bags of dried and cooked sardines are considered a delicacy. The little fish, complete with tiny skeletons, are baked whole in soy sauce and sugar, and topped with sesame seeds. Their rice-cracker consistency makes them the perfect saltysweet, crunchy movie snack.

2. TOM YUM POPCORN A combination of fish sauce, kaffir lime leaves, chilli and

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lemongrass, tom yum’s spicy Thai flavours are a global favourite. But Thailand takes its famous soup flavour to new heights with tom-yum popcorn, where soup flavouring is sprinkled over popcorn as an alternative to salt. Try making your own with tom-yum powder and homemade popcorn for a Thai-style movie night at home.

3. DRIED SALTED PLUMS Li hing mui or huamei – dried, salted plums traditionally from China – are a special treat that pack quite a punch. These wrinkly plums – a combination

of sweet, sour and salty flavours – are a popular movie snack in Hawaii where the powder is also used as a seasoning. Japan has its own variation called umeboshi.

4. CHICKEN LEGS AND BEAN CURD Bean curd, or tofu, is used in kitchens worldwide but is particularly popular in Asia. In Taiwan, find fried bean curd with grilled chicken legs at cinema lobby vending machines or buy them hot and fresh from street vendors. Look out for dried bean curd options too.

5. POPCORN LUXE While the classic ‘choc top’ ice cream may reign as one of Australia’s favourite movie snacks, salty, buttery popcorn is also synonymous with the local movie experience. But there’s nothing wrong with spicing things up. New popcorn options are popping up in cinemas across Australia and include gourmet flavours such as rocky road (for sweettooths); maple, bacon and cheese; and chilli garlic. Often found on premium cinema menus, these flavours take popcorn to the next level.

ILLUSTRATION TANYA COOPER

1. IWASHI SENBEI

11/07/2017 5:10 PM


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11/07/2017 2:21 PM


Experience I HOW-TO

GET CLOTHES A stitch in time will help you find your way through a city bursting at the seams with tailors WORDS LARISSA DUBECKI

elcome to Vietnam’s charming coastal town of Hoi An. Not only is it gobsmackingly beautiful (the car-free Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site), it’s also home to a thriving tailoring industry where the traveller can get bespoke clothes made in super-quick time for a bargain price. Fashion lovers, start your engines.

A tailoring tradition The famed tailoring industry in Hoi An is a legacy of its trading-town past and importance as a stop on the Silk Route from the 15th century. These days, around 300 tailoring businesses ply their trade in the historic town. Competition is fierce, and the quality is generally of a high standard.

Choices, choices So many choices make selection tough. Hung Nguyen, Intrepid Travel’s Vietnam operations

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manager, says finding the right tailor can be overwhelming for the first-time visitor. “Try bigger shops such as Yaly Couture, Thu Thuy or A Dong as they always do a great job,” he says. “Yaly also has staff that specialise in fabrics and can provide recommendations for all budgets.”

Armed and dangerous The tailors have gone high-tech and most have computerised their look-books; some even offer 3D body-scanning to

take your measurements. There’s a very real risk of being bamboozled by choice, so go in armed with a picture from a magazine. Better still, take a favourite piece of clothing along with you and they’ll be able to copy it directly. You’re not circumscribed by the tropical climate either.

Hoi An residents might never need to worry about woollens, but its tailors can whip you up a winter coat without raising a sweat.

Sparks might fly It’s a case of buyer beware when choosing fabrics. Hoi An is home to a thriving silk industry, but cheap synthetics also

ILLUSTRATION STUART HOLMES

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Experience I HOW-TO

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abound. If in doubt, ask the shopkeepers and even other shoppers for advice.

It’s all in the timing A 24-hour turn-around isn’t unheard of in Hoi An, but for a really well-made garment such as a pair of silk pants (which will set you back around $50) between two and four fittings are

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It’s no hardship to spend a few days in Hoi An waiting for your clothes to be made

recommended. Be sure to discuss fittings and your departure date with the tailor when you place your order.

While you wait It’s no hardship to spend a few days in Hoi An waiting for your clothes to be made. The Old Town is charming, with merchant houses, ancient

tea warehouses, cafés and restaurants. Hire a bike and cycle the few kilometres to idyllic An Bang and Cua Dai beaches for white sand, warm seas and fresh seafood. Your only care in the world will be how to fit all those new clothes into your suitcase for the journey home.

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Experience I IMBIBE

Sharing a cuppa Chinese teahouse culture speaks to the universal appeal of companionship and a cuppa WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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t’s a miserable winter’s day, but inside Prahran’s Oriental Teahouse David Zhou is waiting with the perfect antidote. We’re meeting to discuss teahouse culture and he’s decided to show, not tell. On the table are nibbles, a local whisky, sake and two tea sets brewing oolong and a fermented pu’er black tea. Over two decades, David and his wife Kathy have created a small Melbourne empire, including restaurant David’s and three Oriental Teahouses. David became a restaurateur by default, his original passion is tea. Teahouses have been at the centre of Chinese society for generations, as a place to take advantage of tea’s medicinal properties, but also to unwind and socialise.

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Though times have changed, David believes such places still play a vital role. “Some people hung in the old teahouse the whole day. It was like Google; you want information, you go to the teahouse,” he says. “Nowadays, you do that,” he adds, tapping his phone. “The information part of it can be replaced, but people have a craving for the face-to-face.” Arguably, Australia’s answer was the pub. “It’s a culture thing,” David says. “People go somewhere for a drink, and they feel warm inside.” And it was no coincidence the building housing the first Oriental Teahouse was once a pub. In old-school teahouses, snacks such as quail eggs and bean curd

TEAS TO TRY 1. DA HONG PAO Oriental Teahouse orientalteahouse.com.au With delicate notes of toasted rice and a smooth taste, this treasured blend is one of the most popular (and pricey) Chinese oolong teas. 2. PEANUT BUTTER & JAM T Bar tbar.com.au This mix of dried fruit and green tea from Adelaide’s T Bar has a sweet nutty scent and a mellow taste. 3.MATCHA GENMAICHA Perfect South perfectsouth.com.au Single-origin green tea from north-east Victoria is blended with roasted brown rice and matcha powder for an Aussie take on a Japanese brew. played second fiddle to tea. But David realised he had to take a different approach. “The world has moved on, the teahouse has changed – you need to suit people’s needs.”

Australians were used to tea with dumplings, albeit cheap tea, so they tried pairing high-grade tea with yum cha. “People initially did not pay too much attention – tea is tea,” he says. “But with time, customers started asking for oolong and other teas by name.” David equates the craft behind a good spirit, to that of a good tea. “Tea is very subtle, it’s a hard thing to get aroma out of the tea; you need to be patient.” Gesturing at the whisky and sake he explains: “The character, the history, the ageing marries them culturally.” As we talk, the tea, sake and whisky do their job. I float out into the cold in a bubble of warmth, the kind that can only come from good company and a nice, hot cuppa.

PHOTOGRAPHY ORIENTAL TEAHOUSE

Teas from Oriental Teahouse. INSET: David and Kathy Zhou with their family.

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Experience I FOOD TREND

it raw A simple recipe of raw fish and coconut milk is an irresistible combination throughout the South Pacific WORDS JUSTINE COSTIGAN

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t’s a classic hangover cure, comfort food, celebratory dish and anytime snack and, if you’re lucky enough to live on one of the 15 islands that make up the Cook Islands nation, making it is as easy as hunting and gathering in your own back yard. Whether you need a boost after a big night out, or you’re lazing under a palm tree before an aquamarine lagoon, ika mata (meaning ‘raw fish’), the zingy salad made with lashings of coconut cream and fresh, raw fish, is a must-eat taste of the South Pacific. Pretty soon, just like the locals, you’ll want to eat it every day. The traditional version of ika mata is made with small fish such as mullet or reef fish, marinated in a basic brine of lemon, salt and water, then tossed with coconut cream and onion, says Tim Tierney, Executive Chef for Pacific Resorts, which has properties on Rarotonga, the Cook Islands’ capital, and on Aitutaki, home to what’s widely acknowledged as the world’s most beautiful lagoon. He grew up in Rarotonga and says most people now prefer to use tuna, as the islands have a year-round supply, but mahi,

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wahu or marlin are also popular. Other ingredients such as lime, chilli, ginger and coriander have also made their way into local versions of the dish. “Everyone likes it their own way,” says Tim. Throughout the South Pacific the abundance of coconut palms, fresh fish and citrus fruit means every island nation in the region has a variation on the dish. In Fiji, it’s called kokoda (pronounced ‘kokondah’), in Tahiti, Tahitian fish salad, but you can also find similar dishes in Samoa and French Polynesia. Hawaii is the only outlier, with its famous poke bowl of seasoned raw fish made without coconut cream and heavily influenced by the flavours of Japanese cuisine. Ika mata is equally at home on the menus of five-star resort

restaurants as it is at local food markets and the casual cafés and general stores that dot the islands. There’s no faster way to recover from a big evening than with a morning swim in the islands’ crystal clear waters followed by a bowl of tender fish, fresh from the sea and flavoured with the coconut. You’ll be looking out at the sea where the fish may well have been caught that morning, and the shade from the palms above may well have provided the coconut that makes ika mata so addictive. A little taste of paradise indeed.

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Experience I FOOD TREND

Little Polynesian Resort’s Ika Mata

PHOTOGRAPHY HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY (HTA), TOR JOHNSON, SMALL LUXURY COOKBOOK

SERVES 2

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INGREDIENTS • 240g pole-and-line caught yellowfin tuna • ½ mild chilli, chopped • 1 tsp freshly grated ginger • ½ small red onion, finely chopped • Juice of one lemon • 1 tsp salt • 4 tbsp diced tomato • 4 tbsp peeled, de-seeded and diced cucumber • 250ml fresh coconut cream (two coconuts) or substitute with tinned cream • Coriander leaves • Micro greens • Juice of ½ lime

Ika mata from the Cook Islands’ Little Polynesian Resort. INSET: Poke from Hawaii.

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METHOD Dice the tuna and add the chilli, ginger, onion, lemon juice and salt. Mix well and leave to marinate for about five minutes or until the fish turns white. Add tomato and cucumber to the fish. Gently mix in the coconut cream, coriander, micro herbs and lime juice. Serve with taro chips and a crisp glass of white wine. pacificresort.com/littlepolynesian

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Wait... Nobody told me I had to build the plane too!

.com.au

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Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

TAIWAN

Taipei

TAIWAN

24 HOURS IN

TAIPEI

MID-MORNING

Taiwan’s capital offers great food, coffee, art, design, history and adventure WORDS ROBYN ECKHARDT

PHOTOGRAPHY JORGE GONZALEZ / FLICKR, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, DANIEL HADDAD, RAY YU / FLICKR

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Sunset over the Taipei skyline, Taiwanese niu rou mian beef noodle soup, Fong Da Cafe, tiao dough sticks at Dou Jiang Da Wang.

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In Datong district, a bustling centre of trade for rice unloaded from Chinese ships at nearby Dadaocheng Wharf in the early 20th century, seek out shops selling Taiwan-ground highmountain oolong tea leaves. guidetotaipei.com 25

BREAKFAST

LUNCH

In Taipei’s artsy Da’an neighborhood (check out the stylish, wallet-friendly Folio Da’an Hotel), head to Yong He Dou Jiang Da Wang for a cuppa of soy milk – lightly sweetened, hot or cold – with your tiao, savory deep-fried dough sticks. Do as the locals do and dip your bread in your milk. For a heartier meal add xiao long bao (porkfilled soup dumplings). folio-hotels.com

Take the MRT to Taipei main station, then walk for 15 minutes along Chongqing Road to Lane 46 (on your right), an alley heaving with street food purveyors. You’ve come to sample Taiwan’s national dish, niu rou mian (beef noodles) at decades-old Lao Pai Niurou La Mian Da Wang. Thick and chewy hand-pulled noodles, rafts of tender beef and superior tableside condiments – preserved mustard leaves, chunky chilli oil and black vinegar – place this shop’s version well above others. 7, Lane 46, Chongqing South Road Section 1

COFFEE Taiwanese have been serious java heads since the early 1900s, when coffeeloving Japan occupied the island. Fong Da Cafe, one of Taipei’s oldest coffee shops, roasts its own beans and serves espresso drinks, cold-drip and siphon brews. 42 Chengdu Road, Wanhua District

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Experience I BITE-SIZE CITY GUIDE

AFTERNOON Back on the MRT, exit at Sun Yat-sen Memorial Park station, and cross Zhongxiao Road to Songshan Cultural and Creative Park. Taipei joined the likes of Helsinki and Seoul as a World Design Capital last year. The old factory and workers’ dormitories now house exhibit spaces such as the Red Dot Design Museum, galleries, cafés and bookshops. songshanculturalpark.org/en

Vibrant local art

DUSK

DINNER Taiwan’s homegrown bounty features at a new generation of restaurants. At MUME in Da’an District, a trio of chefs (Canadian, US and Australian) with Michelinstar experience serve contemporary Taiwanese dishes such as a stunning 30-ingredient salad dressed with salted black beans and olive oil, and blush prawns bathed in coral sauce, dusted with ricotta ‘snow’. Individual hot pots with broths made from seasonal fermented vegetables (garlic, cabbage, tomato) feature at Mr. Meat Hot Pot and Butchery, whose owner works with artisan producers across the island. mume.tw

DRINKS Finish with a nightcap (reservations recommended, especially on weekends) at Placebo, an intimate cocktail bar in the Xinyi District District, which neighbours Da’an District to the east, serving classic cocktails and house creations such as a seaweed martini, made with Taiwanese seagrass-infused vodka. Find Placebo on Facebook CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Songshan Cultural and Creative Park, Placebo bar, cocktails from Placebo, the view from Xiangshan at dusk, a dish from MUME.

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Try a nightcap at Placebo Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Taipei with connections via Singapore. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, PLACEBO, MUME

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Given Taipei’s urban sprawl, the city offers surprisingly easy access to the great outdoors. A quick trip on the MRT’s red line terminates at Xiangshan station. Walk to the wellmarked Xiangshan (Elephant Mountain) trailhead, from which a mildly vigorous 20-minute climb rewards with a sunset city view. Good lighting along the trail makes descent after dusk a breeze. guidetotaipei.com

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DIVINE DINING Restaurant Month, Auckland’s biggest dining event, is back this August. Enjoy.

The annual Restaurant Month gives foodies the chance to indulge in diverse dining experiences and specially created menus at some of Auckland’s top central-city restaurants. SPECIAL EVENTS A packed calendar of foodie events will shake up your taste buds, including the hugely popular Street Eats on Auckland’s waterfront, where stylish eateries serve up their take on global street food. Each Wednesday, the Chef Dining Series brings together worldrenowned international chefs with Auckland’s own best and brightest. Among the series’ feature events are a four-course feast from

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well-known Auckland chef Sean Connolly that celebrates the mighty truffle, a meat-centric experience featuring chefs from cult LA restaurant Animal, and a modern menu that pairs O’Connell Street Bistro’s Head Chef Mark Southon with his former mentor Ryan Clift, now the chef and proprietor of the acclaimed Tippling Club in Singapore. Event tickets are limited, so get in quick. SPECIAL MENUS All through Restaurant Month, you’ll also get to choose from more than 100 special menus created by participating restaurants just for this event. And with menus set at $25, $40 and $55+, there really is something to suit every taste and budget. It also means you can enjoy more than one night (or day) out.

WINE AND DINE Auckland’s central city is home to a collection of vibrant dining precincts – take your pick from the hip restaurants in Britomart, dine overlooking the water at Wynyard Quarter or Viaduct Harbour, or dig into dishes created by our most renowned chefs in Federal Street.

While you’re here, explore some of Auckland’s three wine growing regions – Matakana, Kumeu and Waiheke Island. Sample the products of superb wine makers on a wine-tasting tour or relax with a long vineyard lunch. So if you’re in Auckland in August, save room for Restaurant Month – and for dessert. Find out more at aucklandnz.com/restaurantmonth

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Experience I FATHER’S DAY

Sign me up Give the gift that keeps on giving with clever subscriptions delivered straight to dad’s door

3. 2. SOCKS & JOCKS Manrags promises to keep sartorially savvy gents well stocked with an ongoing supply of matching socks and underwear in premium Egyptian cotton and playful prints. Choose from just socks, just jocks, or both. manrags.com.au

BEER GOGGLES The fridge will never be empty with the monthly mix of the brewer’s best delivered for Bridge Road Brewers’ ‘Posse’. To try brews from here and abroad, Beer Cartel’s Beer Club delivers unique mixed packs each month. bridgeroadbrewers. com.au beercartel.com.au

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PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, BRIDGE ROAD BREWERS, BRUNY ISLAND CHEESE, ORIGINAL GENT, POD & PARCEL, MANRAGS

1. KEEP CALM AND COFFEE For the caffeine addict with a conscience, Pod & Parcel works with some of Australia’s top coffee roasters to package barista-grade grounds in biodegradable, Nespresso-compatible pods. podandparcel.com.au

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4. LOOKING GOOD Original Gent wants to keep him looking and smelling his best, with monthly or bi-monthly boxes containing a curated collection of accessories such as ties and socks, grooming products and cologne. originalgent.com.au

5.

SAY CHEESE From the wild, pristine south, Bruny Island Cheese Club delivers a selection of cheeses from master cheesemaker Nick Haddow eight times a year, including one exclusive Cheese Club cheese. brunyislandcheese. com.au

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Experience I FATHER’S DAY

The gift guys Forget daggy presents, give dad something he’ll love this Father’s Day (Sunday 3 September)

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Stylish sipping

3. 4. 6. 7.

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1.DENVER & LIELY Whisky glass, $50, denverandliely.com 2. KREAFUNK aHead headphones, $144, au.amara.com 3.THIRD DRAWER DOWN Chef Apron x Craig Damrauer, $35, thirddrawerdown.com 4. BLACK LEOPARD SKINCARE 2 in 1 shave gel cleanser, $19, blackleopardskincare. com 5. MONDAINE Evo 2 40mm, $399, swisstimehq.com.au 6. ABRAND JEANS A Fair denim shirt, $99.95, abrandjeans.com 7. DJI Spark drone, $859, dji.com/spark 8. NIKON Coolpix W300, $599.95, teds.com.au 9. JETSTAR GIFT CARD Available at local retailers in values of $50 & $100, jetstar.com 10. PERSOL Sunglasses (PO3159S), $280, persol.com 11. BARRY SHEENE The Official Photographic Celebration of the Legendary Motorcycle Champion, $39.99, bloomsbury.com/au 12. PIERRE CARDIN Overnight bag (PC2272), $110, milleni.com.au 13. CHRISTIAN PAUL ALPHA V The Story Teller, $289, christianpaul.com.au 14. THE TWENTIETH MAN by Tony Jones, $32.99, allenandunwin.com

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James Tobin Lord Howe Island Ambassador

Lord Howe Island is Just Paradise. Immerse yourself in the spectacular surroundings and experience some of the world’s best day hikes, snorkelling on the coral reef, hand-feeding fish on Ned’s Beach and much more. This multi award winning, World Heritage-listed paradise is less than a 2 hour flight from Sydney or Brisbane and now is the perfect time to visit.

For further information on Lord Howe Island, visit us online

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lordhoweisland.info

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Experience I BEAUTY ON THE FLY

Time savers SLOW THE HANDS OF TIME WITH THESE PRODUCTS AND SIMPLE BEAUTY HACKS WORDS SHONAGH WALKER

Hello bright eyes

2

Top tips 1. BRIGHT EYES An eye cream is nonnegotiable. Use one that adds instant moisture as well as smooths away fine lines both temporarily and with a long-term goal. Apply it twice daily to cleansed skin.

2. THICKER, FULLER HAIR

1

3

“Age-related hormonal changes can cause hair thinning,” says famous Sydney-based hairdresser Anthony Nader. “A shorter cut and volumising spray can make locks look fuller.”

3. SAY YES TO SERUM A serum will deliver targeted anti-ageing ingredients to your skin. Look for one rich in collagen, which is naturally depleted from our bodies over time. It will keep your skin firm and plump.

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4. BOOST YOUR MOISTURISER

4 GO SHOPPING

Add oomph to your moisturiser by using a product that contains sunscreen as well as peptides – the former to protect against ageing, the latter to help minimise the appearance of any damage that may already be showing.

5

1. TRANSFORMULAS EyeLifting gel, $50, transformulas.com 2. MUK Fat Muk volumising blowout mousse, $24.95, mukhair.com 3. MESOESTETIC Collagen 360º essence, $129, advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au 4. NATIO Renew Day Cream SPF15, $24.95, natio.com.au 5. ADDERTON Vinyl lip gloss in Aspen, $40, adderton.com.au

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5. ADD A COMPLEXIONENHANCING HUE “You apply lip colour several times a day, so make it count by using a product that both hydrates and uses peptides to plump the mouth, minimising vertical lines,” says Stephen Adderton, beauty therapist, make-up artist and founder of crueltyfree brand Adderton Beauty. “Choose a creamy rose-pink shade — it imparts youthful radiance to all skin tones.”

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Experience I SUITS YOU

A grey area To dye or not to dye? It’s a hairy question for fellas of all ages WORDS PETER BARRETT

The great cover up?

Three inspirational looks

now that I’m going a bit grey around the edges, should I be colouring my hair? for it. But more often than not men look better with an ash-based colour. It appears more natural.” The stigma around hair dyeing means plenty of men – more than a million, according to Roy Morgan research carried out in 2015 – attempt to

dye their hair at home. It’s not a problem for Rachel, though. In fact, she says it’s good for business. “Because 90 per cent of the time they stuff it up and they’ll come in to me and spend 10 times the amount fixing it.”

1. THE CLOONEY Comb through colour to blend away grey, just as George Clooney seems to have done for certain roles. 2. THE SURFER Secure that natural, sunkissed look with colour highlights. But your hair has to be long for it to work (yes Shane Warne, we’re looking at you). 3. THE PUNK Make a splash running the marathon or just shake things up a little at your local RSL in vivid green, turquoise or amethyst.

ILLUSTRATION ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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IT’S ONE THING to turn your hair blue to protest against the alienation of the individual in contemporary capitalist society. Everyone does that, right? Well, I did when I was 22. But now that I’m going a bit grey around the edges, should I be colouring my hair? It’s a question men of all ages have been grappling with for centuries. In one camp are the embrace-youragers, who point to sexy George Clooney, Richard Gere and John Slattery to make their case. Others, such as Rachel Walker, an award-winning hairdresser, colourist and owner of Chilli Couture in Perth, say men have just as much a right as women to alter their appearance (that is, look younger). “I think men should do whatever they want to do and they shouldn’t be judged for dyeing their hair,” Rachel says. Her high-end salon caters to a small-but-loyal male clientele. Her main tip for men is never to choose a shade of “warm brown”’ (think recent Sir Paul McCartney). “If they look like Elton John and they’re flamboyant, go

Bei

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RESTAURANT MONTH

INDULGE YOURSELF WITH OVER 100 SPECIAL MENUS AND 20 UNIQUE DINING EVENTS THIS AKL RESTAURANT MONTH. AUCKL ANDNZ.COM/RESTAURANTMONTH

Beirut: Koofteh Tabrizi

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Experience I HEALTH

Can I kick it? A Muay Thai class in the birthplace of the sport offers cultural immersion and a satisfying workout WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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Get your kicks

get in some exercise and vent some angst head fitness trainer, a compact, toned figure in a T-shirt and track pants — an image of Jean-Claude Van Damme springs to mind. Decked out in silky shorts and boxing gloves, I’m not feeling nearly so imposing. We start with simple punches. The protective blocks wielded by our sparring partners cushion the blow, and it’s fun to

try and bring out a louder ‘thwack’ each time. After adding a roundhouse kick with the right, I’m starting to feel a little badass. Adding movements, we build to a combination of triple punches, kneeing and triple kicks on each side. It’s hard work, exacerbated by the building tropical heat. By the end my punches are getting feeble and I’m dripping with sweat, but it’s a good feeling. I might never give Jean-Claude a run for his money, but I doubt there’s a much more satisfying way to get in some exercise and vent some angst.

Where to try PATTAYA Avani Pattaya offers daily exercise classes in Muay Thai boxing minorhotels.com/en/ avani/pattaya BANGKOK Luxurious hotel The Siam offers training programs at its fully equipped inhouse Muay Thai ring thesiamhotel.com/ Muay-Thai PHUKET Legendary gym Tiger Muay Thai runs beginners classes six days a week, with wai kru ram muay taught on Saturdays tigermuaythai.com

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, AVANI PATTAYA RESORT & SPA

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THE OPEN-SIDED bar with its dim red lighting, sluggish fans and worldweary bartenders could have been plucked from a Quentin Tarantino film. In the centre of this setting, a man kneels in a boxing ring. Tattooed and slightly portly, he’s mimicking an elephant’s movements with surprising grace. This is wai kru ram muay, a routine Muay Thai fighters perform before each fight to honour teachers and family. This ancient martial art is a respected sport in its native Thailand. We’re sitting so close to the action that we instinctively lean back when fighters crash against the ropes. The Thai fighter soon outmanoeuvres his young European opponent, one of the many foreigners who come to learn the sport in its birthplace. For all of its apparent violence, Muay Thai is less brutal to watch than boxing or mixed martial arts, although we are left keenly aware of the ferocity of a well-timed kick. With this in mind, I rouse early the next morning for a Muay Thai class on the lawns of Avani Pattaya resort. Our teacher is the resort’s

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Experience I SPA & WELLNESS

A H M

When in Byron A Byron Bay healing centre offers a different way to embrace this northern NSW town’s alternative lifestyle WORDS AMELIA BALL

BYRON MEDICINE WHEEL 84 Jonson Street, Byron Bay Kahuna Bodywork requires you to be naked, but a sheet ensures modesty. byronmedicinewheel. com.au

W Th ca me alm ma on

Total bliss

Blo Cu tes in wo be

It’s a cosy haven of ayurvedic massage, reiki and energy healings, palm readings and astrology charts there clear-headed and revitalised. Psychic reading is not usually my thing, but I had been curious enough to book a package deal. Alberta sat me down in a small room and immediately asked for something I often carry with me. After holding

my wallet in silence with her eyes closed for a few minutes, she told me what she saw. A couple of health observations were spot on and she also commented on someone close to me that she couldn’t have known. It wasn’t until I was strolling back to my accommodation – still with a Kahuna-induced spring in my step – that I thought of a stack of questions I could have asked Alberta. I’m going to have to return. I think I might be converted.

PHOTOGRAPHY JEMMA WATTS PHOTOGRAPHY, BYRON MEDICINE WHEEL

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IT CAN BE all too easy to get swept up in the vibe of a holiday destination. You may arrive in hippiechic Byron Bay in your favourite jeans and T-shirt, but the boho boutiques will reel you in faster than you can say “namaste”. On my latest visit to Byron, I took the pamper route – a Kahuna Bodywork massage and healing treatment, complete with a psychic reading. Yep, when in Rome (or Byron Bay) grab the out-there experience. What I got was something energising and uplifting. Byron Medicine Wheel claims to be one of the oldest places in town for psychic readings, healings and massages. It’s a cosy haven of ayurvedic massage, reiki and energy healings, palm readings and astrology charts. The centre’s manager Joy Barber Hua, a Kahuna Bodywork specialist, spent an hour working on my entire body with deep, flowing, rhythmic movements. This treatment is described as a focused massage therapy where the practitioner works with the energy in the client’s body to allow for realignment and balance. It had me skip out of

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Try it here

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Lucy_R


Are Your Hormones Making You Fat? Imagine waking up every morning to the sound of your alarm, excited and happy to be starting a new day. When you look in the mirror you admire your body. Everyone tells you how great you’re looking and asks what your secret is. Sound too good to be true? If you, like many other women, don’t feel this way, you may have a hormonal imbalance. Research has documented that over 40 per cent of women have an undiagnosed underactive thyroid gland. If you feel tired all the time, crave sugar, use alcohol and coffee to lift yourself, retain weight around your middle and feel the cold, you could be suffering from this problem. What Does Your Thyroid Do, and What Does This Mean For You? The thyroid gland is the major player in controlling how many calories you burn. It produces hormones that control the body’s metabolism. If your thyroid is underactive (hypothyroidism) it’s almost impossible to lose that spare tyre around your middle, no matter how many carbs you cut out or how many hours you spend on the treadmill. Blood Testing Current blood testing methods don’t tell the whole story. Blood tests (TSH) can only measure how much thyroid hormone you have in your blood – they can’t measure how well your hormones are working. So, if you do have a thyroid problem, it may not always be picked up. New Way of Testing American thyroid specialists, Dr. Konrad Kail and Dr. Daryl Turner have developed a quick and non-invasive medical thyroid screening test, that’s been used by US doctors for the past ten years to accurately diagnose thyroid issues. The good news is, once your thyroid function is accurately diagnosed, the medication and nutrients you need to get your thyroid balanced can be established. With a balanced thyroid your energy will increase, you will lose weight easily, and you’ll feel happier in yourself. Your health is your greatest asset, so, if you suspect that your thyroid isn’t quite right, don’t put off getting tested, you deserve to feel fantastic every day.

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To receive your FREE eBook on “The 7 Secrets to Understanding Why Your Thyroid is Causing You to Gain Weight” visit, thelucyroseclinic.com.au

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Experience I RECIPE

Flavours of Vietnam

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A taste of Hue

Melbourne chef Jerry Mai delivers the flavours of central Vietnam WORDS JUSTINE COSTIGAN

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ietnamese refugees transformed Australia’s cuisine when they arrived in the 1970s and ’80s, particularly in Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane, where the majority of arrivals eventually settled, started businesses (many of them restaurants and cafés) and raised their families. For many established Australians, it was their first introduction to Vietnamese culture and

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cuisine, and while it took a little time to adapt to the new flavours and ingredients, we soon embraced Vietnamese cuisine with a passion – slurping pho and snacking on rice paper rolls like locals. Vietnam is now one of Asia’s most popular destinations, with two Vietnamese cities (Hoi An and Hanoi) making it into the top 10 in the 2017 TripAdvisor Top 25 Destinations in Asia Travellers’ Choice

Awards. With Australians’ growing appreciation of Vietnam and all it has to offer, it’s no wonder we’re also looking for special Vietnamese experiences at home. When siblings Jerry and David Mai opened Pho Nom in Melbourne’s Emporium in 2014, the city took to their sleek Vietnamese street-food eatery with gusto. Serving up pho, rice paper rolls, com (rice) and banh mi, among other street food favourites, Pho Nom took

a fine-dining approach – using high quality, locally sourced produce – matched with a fun and colourful approach to design and service. After opening another Pho Nom in Melbourne in 2015, Jerry has turned her attention to a new food venture, this one exploring the refined cuisine of central Vietnam, once known as Annam, the common name for Frenchgoverned Vietnam prior to 1945, but never officially

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Experience I RECIPE

used by the Vietnamese. The name Annam specifically referred to the country’s central region, home to the former Imperial capital Hue, where tourists now flock to see Vietnam’s World Heritage-listed ancient walled city. Its rich cultural heritage, including the influence of Royal cuisine where delicate and colourful dishes are served at multi-course feasts, and its spice-growing history, has helped the region

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forge an international reputation for the quality of its cooking. “I love the fact that Hue is an old imperial city,” says Jerry. “For me the cuisine, especially the Royal and vegetarian cuisine, is so special. And it’s close to the coast, so there’s also seafood. It’s a diverse little region.” While Pho Nom has a southern Vietnamese flavour and focus on familiar Vietnamese street food, Annam will reflect a different side of Vietnam’s diverse culinary history. “In the north you find a very basic kind of food with little chilli or lemongrass, but as you move south towards central Vietnam you start to taste lemongrass, chilli and annatto seed,” she says. With business partner Rani Doyle, Annam will offer a wider Vietnamese dining experience, focusing on charcoal barbecues using prime cuts of wagyu and sirloin, and recreating the atmosphere of a Vietnamese street market. “It’s the next step in my journey,” says Jerry, who sees the parallels with traditional street food vendors. “In Vietnam, you start on the street, but when you earn enough money you open a place of your own.” Annam Restaurant Bar opens at the end of this month. Find it at 56 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne. annam.com.au

Jerry Mai (right) with business partner Rani Doyle (left). LEFT: Jerry Mai’s chicken salad.

INGREDIENTS Poached chicken

Jerry Mai’s poached chicken salad with slaw and nuoc mam SERVES: 4-6 METHOD: Add chicken, lemongrass stalks and chilli to a pot and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to low and poach chicken for about 30 minutes, or until a skewer poked into the chicken comes out clean and there is no sign of blood near the bone. Remove chicken from the pot, place on a plate, allowing any excess water to drain, and set aside to cool. Once chicken has cooled, remove and discard skin. Slice the chicken or, using your hands, shred meat into small pieces. Combine slaw ingredients in a bowl, top with the chicken and dress with the nuoc mam just before serving. For the nuoc mam sauce, combine the sugar and warm water and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add remaining ingredients and set aside. Serve with fried prawn crackers, sliced chilli and crisp fried onions or shallots.

• 4 chicken breasts, skin on, on the bone • 2 stalks lemongrass, lightly crushed • 1 large red chilli, whole

Slaw mix • 1kg white cabbage, thinly sliced • 500g purple cabbage, thinly sliced • 200g julienned carrots • 1 cup mint, roughly chopped • 1 cup Vietnamese mint, roughly chopped

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Nuoc mam

½ cup sugar ½ cup warm water 1 cup fish sauce cup lemon juice 2 red chillies, finely chopped • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped • • • • •

Garnish • crispy fried onions (or packaged fried shallots) • sliced chillies • prawn crackers

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Melbourne and Vietnam from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

14/07/2017 11:52 AM


Experience I WORK & PLAY

Game on On the serious side of fun, digital game developers are creating a new local industry WORDS PETER BARRETT

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hile the global media landscape lurches from one disrupting technological change to the next (goodbye CDs, traditional TV and print news), digital game developers in Australia and New Zealand are punching above their weight. In NZ, more than 30 studios employ almost 500 full-time developers, generating an annual NZ$89 million (92 per cent of which is from global sales). Meanwhile, Australia’s game-makers number about the same but make big waves internationally. In October 2015, five of the top 10 App Store games were Australian. So, let’s meet three of our best.

League of Geeks, Melbourne LoG started in 2011 as a collective of profitsharing independent contractors who built one-off, edgy, fairytale digital board game Armello. Since its 2015 launch, Armello has sold more than 300,000 units and been a finalist for major gaming awards, such as the Independent Game Festival.

League of Geek’s game Armello. INSET: LoG director Blake Mizzi.

I thought, where’s all the ladies at? LoG self-publishes through Steam, a digital distribution platform that allows developers to retain ownership of intellectual property and royalties. “We are quite different from pretty much any other Australian developer studio,” says director and co-founder Blake Mizzi. Some studios release new games every three to six months, but LoG prefers to make one premium game available on multiple platforms.

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With 17 full-time staff and more than 40 contractors, you’ll find LoG at The Arcade in South Melbourne, a co-working hub run by the Game Developers’ Association of Australia that’s home to more than 20 gaming studios. Besides Armello, LoG worked with developer House House on the game Push Me Pull You and is currently working on a similar deal with another start-up. Watch this space. leagueofgeeks.com

Zero Latency, Melbourne You and a small band of fellow gun-toting combatants pitted against a facility overrun by zombies, raiders and killer robots. Sound like fun? The crew at Zero Latency knew they were onto something special after testing their groundbreaking technology at a Halloween party in 2013. “We surprised some people with some virtual reality zombies and got a really good reaction,” says chief technology officer, Scott Vandonkelaar. Welcome to free-roam VR, where up to eight players

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Experience I WORK & PLAY

A new reality

43 CLOCKWISE: VR with Zero Latency, Metia Interactive’s Sparx, Maru Nihoniho, Tim Ruse and Scott Vandonkelaar of Zero Latency.

move freely around warehouse-sized spaces wearing VR goggles and computer backpacks. “It’s a sophisticated computer system; you come with your friends and you basically experience these epic adventures,” chief executive officer Tim Ruse says. The company has four titles – Zombie Outbreak, Zombie Survival, Singularity and Engineerium – and employs 40 people in three continents. It has warehouse gaming facilities in Melbourne, Tokyo, Madrid and six US cities. While their freeroam VR tech has sparked

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interest with military and police as training aids, the platform’s real strength, says Scott, is that it’s social. “It’s akin to the birth of cinema; no one’s experienced anything like what we have created and it has a profound effect on people.” zerolatencyvr.com

Metia Interactive, Auckland Maru Nihoniho is a bona fide NZ industry pioneer. Before starting her company 14 years

ago (her mum came up with the name – me tia, which means ‘to do’ or ‘go ahead’ in Te Reo Maori), she scoured overseas gaming conferences for information. Audiences, she says, were dominated by men at a rate of 90 to one. “I thought, Where’s all the ladies at? I felt a bit out of place.” Undaunted, Maru set about creating her first game, a puzzler for the handheld market called Cube. The game went on to be published worldwide and received an award from the United Nations World Summit in 2009. Since then, the three-person Metia team

(sometimes four) has made 10 games, including Sparx, a cognitive behavioural therapy tool for young people managing depression. “Our tagline is ‘Media Interactive: making serious fun’. We want to take serious, meaningful content that has a clear learning objective and we want to make it fun,” Maru says. Last year she received a New Zealand Order of Merit for services to gaming and mental health, and her work currently appears in Code Breakers: Women In Games, an exhibition at the Australian Centre for the Moving Image, in Melbourne. metia.co.nz

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Coast with the most

From pristine beaches to lush hinterland rainforest, the Tweed region has it all. See more of our favourite places in regional NSW from page 111.

PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION TWEED

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BALI I BRISBANE I CYCLING I AND MORE

11/07/2017 2:36 PM


AUSTRALIA

A BIRD’S-EYE VIEW Photographer Nick Rains takes to the skies to capture the vast Australian landscape from a new angle

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Lost in a desert: The remote ‘Lost City’ of Litchfield National Park in the Northern Territory. RIGHT: Sand dunes along Walkers Crossing in outback South Australia.

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Flood and drought: (left to right) Rain lashes the coast near Darwin in the Northern Territory during the Top End’s wet season. Scrubby spinifex grass replaces farms and forest in the far west reaches of Queensland.

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Coast to coast: (left to right) The Great Ocean Road in Victoria is one of the country’s most famous stretches of coastline. Red cliffs meet the Indian Ocean in isolated, World-Heritage listed Shark Bay, 800km north of Perth in Western Australia.

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Highways and flyways: (left to right) A freeway curves around Mount Gravatt in south-east Brisbane, Queensland. Parking bays for light aircraft in the suburban Parafield Airport, South Australia.

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TedsJ

Explore I PHOTO ESSAY

Oz from above Nick Rains traversed the country documenting Australia from on high for his latest project WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

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Camping in the South Australian desert. LEFT: Tasmania’s Freycinet National Park.

what looks like featureless desert can actually reveal amazing patterns patterns when viewed from above. “Industrial infrastructure, looking vertically down, is one of my favourite subjects. However, for natural scenes I think the coastline of Australia offers a huge variety of imagery,” Nick says. Shooting took Nick on flights between Perth, Darwin and Canberra, as well as on an epic roadtrip from Brisbane to Adelaide along the coast, and back via Broken Hill. “That would be about 5000km by road in a

three-week period, plus about 15,000km by plane,” he estimates. Although most of the book was shot from drone, light aircraft or helicopter, Nick captured several images from commercial aircraft 36,000 feet in the air. To capture a scene through your plane window, Nick suggests shooting from the shaded side of the plane through an unscratched window, and wearing dark colours to avoid reflections. Aerial Australia, RRP $39.99 hardiegrant.com

About the photographer With more than 30 years as a commercial and documentary photographer under his belt, Nick Rains has worked with an array of publications and clients. He also teaches fellow enthusiasts at Melbourne’s Leica Akademie. nickrains.com

PHOTOGRAPHY NICK RAINS

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NICK RAINS’ first aerial photograph was a memorable one. Covering the 1987 America’s Cup in Fremantle, he was given the opportunity to fly in a helicopter. “I jumped at the chance,” Nick says. “I still recall the sensation of lifting off with the doors off, and swooping out over the sea. Amazing fun.” For most of his career, Nick simply used aerial shots as another tool in his arsenal as a documentary photographer. “For me, aerial photography is a means to an end, it offers a new perspective on places,” he says. Aerial photography became his focus when he was invited to add another book to his series including Coastal Australia, Country Australia, Desert Australia and Tropical Australia. “Aerial was a natural progression in the series,” Nick says. Having shot so much of Australia already for these publications, taking to the skies enabled him to capture something new. “The Australian outback has a huge range of textural variation, which is only visible from the air,” Nick says. “From the ground, what looks like featureless desert can actually reveal amazing

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11/07/2017 2:37 PM


Explore I CANGGU

The perfect break

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Capital of Once-quiet Canggu has a hipster vibe that’s gaining tourists’ attention WORDS ROBERT KIDD

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DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

BALI Canggu

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, THE LAWN, LITTLE FLINDERS

TOP TO BOTTOM: A dish from Little Flinders, boards for hire, The Lawn at sunset. OPPOSITE: Off to the beach in Canggu.

cool

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n a café with exposed concrete walls, a bearded man drinks an organic smoothie. A tattooed waiter delivers a flat white and smashed avocado on toast to the next table. Outside, a cheap Chinese scooter whips through the dense air with a surfboard held by a U-bend taped to its side. North of the resorts and clubs of Kuta and Seminyak on Bali’s south-west coast, and about an hour’s drive from Denpasar airport, Canggu (pronounced chan-gu) is the island’s hipster hotspot. Its challenging waves, breaking off a black-sand beach, have lured savvy surfers for years, but now the secret of the sleepy township with the bohemian vibe is spreading. It might seem like every spare patch of land is being developed, but many think Canggu can keep its chill. Last December, Tai Graham, long-time Bali resident and pro surfer, opened The Lawn, a popular ‘beach club’ where you can sip cocktails sitting on a beachside deck. “No doubt some of the big hotels and clubs will enter the market,” says Tai. “But hopefully everyone sees the beauty and individuality that Canggu possesses and keeps the progress on that path.” We receive a warm welcome from a smiling army of staff at our accommodation, a fiveminute walk from Canggu’s small centre. For less than the cost of a standard Sydney hotel room, we have a jaw-dropping villa with a private pool. Along the road towards Canggu’s main strip Batu Bolong we pass rice paddies and building sites advertising “luxury villas coming soon”. Batu Bolong is filled with tattoo parlours, beard-sculpting barbers and, above all, funky cafés – including one named Little Flinders that could have come straight out of a Melbourne laneway. The line-up of restaurants features

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Explore I CANGGU

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cuisines from modern Mexican to Scandinavian comfort food. There are plenty of clues this is Bali though – stray dogs stretch lazily by the road, wires hang from electricity poles and helmet-less scooter drivers whizz by. Next to a trendy surfwear shop, a woman wrapped in orange fabric makes an offering to a Hindu shrine.

Dawn to dusk The super-cool Crate Café stands out for a caffeine fix. Balinese hipsters unhurriedly serve coffee that would meet the standards of the fussiest inner-city barista to a young crowd of bronzed surfers, yogis and chilled backpackers. We walk towards Batu Bolong beach and find Old Man’s, a Canggu institution. It serves up tasty pub grub in a laidback atmosphere during the day and unveils a more raucous side by night. We have just sat down when the swollen clouds release the afternoon’s air-clearing downpour. There is a mass move to shelter but no one seems ruffled – the sun will shine again soon. Some excellent flathead and chips and cold Bintang beers later, we explore Canggu’s other stretch of sand, Echo Beach. As Echo’s few beach shack bars turn up the music around dusk, we retreat to Captain Catch, a quiet bar bordering the two beaches

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Catching a wave at Batu Bolong Beach. LEFT, TOP TO BOTTOM: Little Flinders café, Old Man’s, sunrise over the beach.

The sky becomes a patchwork of colours – blues and golds and impossible pinks with tiki torches, a thatched hut and lawn chairs facing the ocean. There is a faint smell of incense and a welcoming sign: “no shirt, no shoes, no problem”. We order refreshing pineapple mint vodka cocktails served in large jam jars. The sky becomes a patchwork of colours – blues and golds and impossible pinks – as Bali shows off how it ends the day. The waves that had crashed on the coast with such ferocity earlier suddenly seem calm, as though they too are winding down. Maybe it’s the drinks, but I pull out my phone and search ‘surf lesson Canggu’.

Riding the waves “We have to have a lesson,” I insist as my wife and I climb out of bed at 5.45am, rubbing our eyes. “Canggu’s waves are famous.” I figure the shock of ocean water will clear away the cloudiness from the cocktails. The gentle morning light floods the beach and the surf looks inviting. After going through the basics on the crunchy sand with our instructor Ketut, we head in.

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, LITTLE FLINDERS, OLD MAN’S

Conquer the waves

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Explore I CANGGU

Breathtaking sunsets

After a couple of false starts, I sense a wave coming and Ketut shoves me into its path. Like a toddler taking his first steps, I gingerly get upright. “Lean forward, lean forward!” I hear Ketut bark over the roar of the ocean. I try to shift my weight as subtly as I can, and plunge headfirst into the lukewarm water. It sets the tone for the next 90 minutes – catching waves, standing up, falling off. More novice surfers join and the waves grow in size and strength. It is not so much the risk of wipeout that’s a struggle – though I suffer several – but the force of swimming against the tide. After riding a wave nearly all the way into shore, I paddle my arms like an out-of-control windmill for 10 minutes trying in vain to get past the breaks. We call it a morning. Back in Ketut’s beaten-up Kombi van, he tells us he worked for a big surf company but found “working for someone else” unsatisfying. “Now I do a couple of lessons and I can do what I want for the rest of the day,” he says.

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proud of. Hot stones and fragrant oils appear and soon my eyes close and I fall into a blissed-out trance. It’s easy to get into a groove in Canggu — surf, avo on toast, massage, repeat.

Finding the rhythm

We drive past a particularly hip section of the main street, with a record shop above a tattoo parlour. “Most of this has only been here a year,” Ketut says. “I think in a few years it will be like Kuta.”

Rest and relaxation Following the morning’s exertion, we book a massage at Goldust, a spa that warns its services “may lead to extreme relaxation”. They offer a surfer special but I’m not sure one lesson qualifies me so I opt for a neck and shoulder; $24 for an hour. The masseur is a short, stout man with a sweet smile and paws like a grizzly bear. As I sink into a large armchair, he sets to work, uncovering and untangling knots an experienced sailor would be

On our final night, we return to Captain Catch and watch surfers, bobbing in the ocean like multicoloured buoys, hoping for one more wave in the dying light. Out of earshot of the Echo Beach bars, the only sound worth listening to in a quiet town getting louder is the rush of the waves. As each one barrels in, I feel my shoulders melting away from my ears and my breathing becoming deeper. No matter how Canggu changes, this is a feeling worth hanging on to.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Bali from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, CREATIVE COMMONS FLICKR TALITA

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Explore I BALI

THE BOLD FLAVOURS OF BALI

Write your own tale of discovery from the humble roadside and beachside warungs of Bali, to its modern fine-diners WORDS BELINDA LUKSIC

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Explore I BALI

PHOTOGRAPHY SALLY MAY HILLS

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Famous fare The next morning, Warung Ibu Oka 3, in a small shopfront opposite the Royal Palace in Ubud, pulls an early morning crowd. Like me, they’re here for one thing – the

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Lunch with a smile. INSET: Warungs often specialise in one dish. PREVIOUS PAGE: Warung dining around Bali.

Meet the locals

babi guling, a spicy spit-roasted suckling pig that is unique to Bali, Indonesia’s last remaining Hindu island. Moist, with hints of chilli, turmeric, ginger and garlic, Anthony Bourdain once declared it the best pig he’d ever eaten. I’m inclined to agree. The $5 ‘spesial’ arrives with chilli-flecked meat, slivers of turmericrich crackling, deep-fried puffs of pork rind and a side of green rice. Get there by 1pm, before the crackling runs out. When we arrive at Sate Plecing Arjuna at 11am it’s already crammed. The shoebox space on a busy intersection in Denpasar is billowing with smoke from the open

kitchen and its communal tables are packed. The only menu is in Bahasa (Indonesian) and the staff speaks no English. This is the rule, rather than the exception, at the warungs. The specialty of the house is sate — pork, beef or marrow barbecued on sticks — and I order the lot, to go, for around $4. Next on the day’s list is Warung Mak Beng, a popular seaside eatery in Sanur with communal seating and a brag wall of celebrity diners. Here it’s all about the nasi ikan (rice and fish) – deepfried snapper cutlet, spicy sambal, rice and a fragrant fish-head soup. It’s minutes from the beach, a nice spot to take a postlunch walk or dip.

GLOSSARY Nasi: rice Nasi putih: plain white rice Mie: noodles Goreng: fried Rebus: boiled Ayam: chicken Babi: pork Ikan: fish Udang: prawns Sapi: beef Bakso: meatballs Soto: broth Sup: soup Bakar: barbecue Gado gado: mixed vegetables in peanut sauce Bubur: savoury rice porridge Nasi campur: steamed rice with a selection of meats and vegetables Sate: meat on sticks

PHOTOGRAPHY SALLY MAY HILLS, GETTY IMAGES

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here is no menu and we’re the only Westerners. But for around $3 we eat like kings – dining on sate lilit (minced tuna grilled over coconut husks), pepes ikan (spiced minced tuna grilled in banana leaves), sauteed green beans, steamed rice and a clear parsley broth filled with bakso (fish balls). En route to Candidasa, a sleepy seaside resort town on Bali’s east coast, we’re dining at Warung Lesehan Sari Baruna. It’s a large, open-air roadside restaurant, a 45-minute drive from Denpasar’s hustle and bustle – and this is authentic Balinese cooking. While Bali has been in the spotlight for its swag of fine-dining hotspots fronted by Aussie chefs, it’s in the humble hawker-like warungs that intrepid foodies can really discover the island’s authentic flavours. Scattered throughout Indonesia, these low-key restaurants are often family-run establishments with a few tables and chairs. Some have menus. Others specialise in one dish and have created destination dining for locals.

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Warungs aside, we can’t ignore Kaum restaurant, a new fine-dining Indonesian restaurant above Seminyak’s Potato Head Beach Club. Here pastry chef Dedy Sutan introduces us to the Balinese breakfast porridge known as bubur sumsum. Reimagined as a dessert on the Kaum menu, this simple coconut rice pudding has been elevated into a delicate suji (pandan betawi leaf) and vanilla bean-scented swirl of green and white, topped with fragrant coconut cream and sweet palm syrup. Kaum, Bahasa for tribe, celebrates Indonesia’s bold flavours with seasonal, local ingredients and the menu showcases signature dishes from the archipelago’s 18,000-plus islands. We dine on spicy gulai udang, a curry of prawn tails, okra and plantains from Aceh, in the north of Sumatra, and perfectly cooked kalio daging sapi, a West Sumatran specialty made with braised beef, spices and coconut milk, and served with sweet potato crisps. The Balinese bebek goreng (slow-roasted duck) is dense and tender, and given a piquant twist with a green mango and chilli sambal. For dessert, there is a Dutch-inspired klappertaart (coconut bread pudding with

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Gado gado at Kaum.BELOW: Communal dining table at Kaum restaurant.

Tips Most warungs aren’t English speaking. Prepare to point – and stick with signature dishes. Plan your visit before noon when the food (mostly unrefrigerated) is freshest and in supply.

Eat here

chocolate meringue and rum-soaked raisins) and a Balinese es campur, a pretty pink Eton mess of sorts with fermented cassava, brioche, palm fruit, seaweed jelly and seasonal fruits.

Dip a toe in Back on the warung trail we discover one of Bali’s best nasi campurs (rice with a mix of dishes) at Warung Eny, a family-run diner on Jalan Petitenget in Seminyak. Here the Indonesian favourite is given a clean-eats twist: the vegetables are organic, the fish caught fresh, and the meal arrives with a fresh coconut juice. Warung Eny also runs cooking classes at its Love Cooking School for those wanting to learn how to cook authentic Balinese food.

A must for any foodie’s list is Jimbaran Bay, on the south west coast of Bali, where each night about 30 warungs set up on the beachfront, selling everything from fish to shellfish and clams. It’s surely the freshest seafood on the island. Dine as the sun sets in a blaze of pink and tangerine and, as you are serenaded by travelling minstrels, feel the sand squelching between your toes. Belinda Luksic was a guest of Kaum

Warung Lesehan Sari Baruna, Jalan Raya Pesinggahan, Klungkung Warung Ibu Oka 3 2 Jalan Suweta, Tegal Sari, Ubud Sate Plecing Arjuna 47 Jalan Arjuna, Denpasar Warung Mak Beng 45 Jalan Hang Tuah, Sanur Kaum Restaurant 51 Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak Warung Eny 97 Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Bali from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY BELINDA LUKSIC, KAUM RESTAURANT.

Inspired dining

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Enter the dragon Indonesia’s remote islands offer a glimpse of a land lost in time WORDS CHRISTINE RETSCHLAG

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PHOTOGRAPHY INDONESIAN ISLAND SAIL, GETTY IMAGES, GILI ASAHAN ECO LODGE

CLOCKWISE: The Al likai, exploring distant islands, Komodo dragons, Gili Asahan Eco Lodge.

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am walking through the jungle with an Indonesian naturalist guide called Safe, which is reassuring, because although we are hunting for Komodo dragons there are cobras, deadly vipers and crocodiles here too. Rinca Island, in the remote east of the Indonesian archipelago, is home to half of the country’s 3000 iconic Komodo dragons – large lizards, or modern-day dinosaurs. Safe carries a crude, twopronged stick as we wander through Loh (meaning bay) Buaya (meaning komodo) within Komodo National Park and points out the dragons. “They look peaceful but they are unpredictable,” he says. “They’ve got bad eyes but use their tongue for smell and can smell more than 5km away.” It has taken me almost nine days aboard the traditional Indonesian sailing vessel Al likai to get to this point on the planet. The 350 nauticalmile journey from Bali’s Serangan Harbour, up the Lombok Strait to South Lombok and past Mount Rinjani aboard the 37-metre boat, has included the destinations of Karamat, Moyo and Satonda islands, and Mount Tambora and Wera village on Sumbawa Island before arriving at Komodo National Park. My journey has involved snorkelling around the remote islands and reefs of the Bali and Flores Seas, exploring coral gardens, and swimming with gigantic manta rays, turtles, sea snakes, sharks and exotic fish. There’s been stops for

cocktails and coffee at the upmarket Kokomo Resort and the Gili Asahan Eco Lodge. We’ve visited villages, swum in waterfalls, eaten authentic Indonesian food on board and gazed beyond Bali’s horizon. Amanda Zsebik, the Australian expat owner of Al likai, delivers a personal experience for the 16 guests on her traditional Indonesian phinisi (double-mast) ship. Formerly from Sydney, Amanda visited Bali about 20 years ago and simply fell in love with Indonesia. Three years ago, she bought the Al likai. Her 12-member crew is handpicked and, apart from its talented Balinese cook, all hail from remote islands such as Flores and Sulawesi, known for good sailors, boat builders and pirate tales. Amanda believes her vessel lives up to its name, which means ‘queen of the seas’. “Everyone else does diving. I just want to do adventure and snorkelling and fun. I get all types of people on board, from the grey nomads to families with young kids,” she says. “This is the only trip of its kind in Indonesia. It is a very nurturing boat.” But for me, it’s the dragons I’ve really come for. You’ll find them on just five Indonesian islands, and it’s only possible to view them safely with guides on Komodo and Rinca Islands. Safe explains it’s relatively easy to distinguish between the males, with their larger heads, longer tails and fatter bodies, and the smaller, slimmer

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The Al likai is a restored Indonesian phinisi ship. INSET: A ‘modern-day dinosaur’.

Three more to try They are prehistoric animals. Some scientists say they were first seen in Australia females. But females are more aggressive, guarding the nests in which they lay 15 to 30 eggs each year. Komodos mate between July and August, laying eggs in September, which hatch in April. The baby dragons emerge at around 30cm long, and can grow to weigh several hundred kilograms over a 50-year lifespan. “They are prehistoric animals. Some scientists say they were first seen in Australia,” Safe says. The komodo dragon is considered sacred to locals, who see them as an ancestor, helping explain why the dragons are protected and growing in number. The eastern islands around which we sail are known as Nusa Tenggara or ‘south-east islands’ which stretch from Lombok to Timor.

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These islands are home to around four per cent of Indonesia’s population, a muslim-majority who speak more than 300 different dialects and are among the poorest in the country. “I just want to take people out of Bali and to see that Indonesia is not (just) Bali … particularly Australians. There is something about this country that brings people here,” Amanda says. “It’s got more than 13,000 islands and close to 60 per cent of the population live on one island (Java). This country shouldn’t work in any way, but it does.” Just ask the dragons, who have been witnessing it for millennia. Christine Retschlag was a guest of the Al likai. indonesianislandsail.com

Sea Trek Sailing adventures Sea Trek leads a range of sixto 12-day cruises departing Bali, all exploring the region’s stunning island and marine wilderness. seatrekbali.com Explore the Gili Islands Intrepid Travel’s Gili Islands small group tour departs Bali for a seven-day cruise in and around Bali, the Gili Islands and the Lombok Strait. intrepidtravel.com Day trips If you’re keen to get out on the water, a day trip to Nusa Lembongan is an ideal way to dip your toe in the water. Cruises range from laidback to romantic, and ‘party’ style. balihaicruises.com

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Bali from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY INDONESIAN ISLAND SAIL

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The Bali edit

Editor’s picks OUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT, DRINK, SLEEP AND BE SEEN IN BALI

FINNS BEACH CLUB Overlooking surfers bobbing on the popular Berawa break, Finns Beach Club is Canggu’s favourite place to laze away a day. With six bars set around two waterfront pools, and a restaurant in a lofty, bamboo pavilion, you can go from a breakfast smoothie to a sun-downer cocktail without straying more than a few steps from your sun lounge. finnsbeachclub.com

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Mrs Sippy Bali The Balinese sibling to Sydney’s Mrs Sippy Double Bay, Mrs Sippy Bali looks set to cement its place on Seminyak’s social roster with bottomless brunch, every Saturday from 10am to 2pm. Claim a cabana next to the 800sq m saltwater pool and listen to DJs spin as you feast on a decadent breakfast washed down with bottomless breakfast cocktails. mrssippy.com.au

LACALITA Cantina Lacalita brings the streets of Mexico to happening Canggu. The open-air venue on busy Batu Bolong is a riot of colour and Mexicali kitsch, doling out margaritas, mojitos, tequila and fresh Mexican food to a chilled-out crowd. Keep an eye out for Lacalaca in Seminyak and the brand new Lacasita in Ubud. lacalongtime.com

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Sundays Beach Club Ride the inclinator down from luxurious Ungasan Clifftop Resort on the beautiful Bukit Peninsula to discover the private, white-sand beach and turquoise lagoon of Sundays Beach Club. Kick off the day with a sumptuous breakfast menu from Aussie chef James Viles, while away the hours swimming, snorkelling or kayaking, then settle into a bean bag for the nightly bonfire. sundaysbeachclub.com

PADMA RESORT LEGIAN Thirst quencher

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Just off popular Legian Beach, Padma Resort features spacious suites with contemporary Balinese styling, four open-air pools and luxurious facilities spread around lush, landscaped grounds. With six on-site restaurants, a kids’ club and spa, this full-services resort promises the ideal ‘fly and flop’ holiday. padmahotels.com

Wyndham Tamansari Jivva Resort Bali Wyndham Hotel Group has added Wyndham Tamansari Jivva Resort Bali to its Balinese portfolio, which already includes Wyndham Garden Kuta Beach and Ramada Bali Sunset Road Kuta in the heart of the action. The perfect retreat on Bali’s undiscovered east coast, Jivva overlooks black-sand Lepang Beach. Explore the peaceful rural surrounds or simply soak up the sound of the waves by the pool. wyndhamjivvabali.com

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SPRING INTO THE SOUTH

WHEN THE SNOW MELTS IN MACKENZIE COUNTRY ON NEW ZEALAND’S SOUTH ISLAND, IT’S TIME TO JUMP ON A BIKE, HIKE OR FLY THROUGH SOME OF ITS DRAMATIC SCENERY WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY KELLY LYNCH

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CHRISTCHURCH Mackenzie country

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t Lake Ohau Lodge, Mike Neilson has no problem admitting he’s stuck in the ’60s. In New Zealand’s Mackenzie region, a three-hour drive from Christchurch, the wild, sparsely populated landscape is brushed in strokes of bronze, green and tawny tussock, broken by mystical blue waters. You could easily be cocooned in time as long clouds move swiftly between patches of brilliant blue sky. The double wooden doors to Lake Ohau Lodge open to a large lounge with timber-panelled walls replete with mounted deer head above a hissing, crackling fireplace. Beyond is a reading room, a bar and a games room. “The lodge’s mission is for every guest to feel like it’s their home,” Mike says. Mission accomplished. The delicious, generous three-course meals are legendary, children eat together at 6pm and, having made friends, they run off to play hide and seek, leaving adults to relax and eat, uninterrupted, an hour later. As Ohau ski field closes for another season, the first spring cyclists roll into Mackenzie Country. They’re cycling the spectacular Alps 2 Ocean bike ride beginning at Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park. The four- to six-day 360km ride is broken into nine sections, one is 38km from Twizel township to Lake Ohau Lodge. For a taste of the journey we are dropped at Lake Pukaki with hire bikes from The Jollie Biker. We pedal along a gravel track, passing cones of soft pink, purple and mauve lupin flowers that bloom by the water’s edge. By summer their colour will dominate the region and the tranquil turquoise lake will no longer be framed by the cap of snow on the surrounding mountains.

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Leggie at the Hydro Café in Twizel serves up a mean burger and a top coffee. Down the road at High Country Salmon, glinting fish rise to the surface as we trickle pellets into a deep tank. Salmon sushi, sashimi, chowder and salmon any way you please are on offer here. Try a platter of smoked salmon slices, accompanied with locally made Ben Ohau Road’s Aorangi Tangy cheese and rhubarb chutney from Rusty Halo Kitchen. Dramatic scenery fills the windscreen on the one-hour drive from Lake Ohau Lodge to Aoraki/ Mt Cook Village. Families stop on the roadside to skim flat stones, breaking reflections across Lake Pukaki.

Dramatic peaks In 1855 Scottish sheep rustler James Mackenzie and his dog Friday drove a flock of 1000 sheep across the pass and plains. He was the first European through the area and those that followed him to recover their stolen stock later established large, high-country sheep stations. The region became known as Mackenzie Country, where only the hardest of farmers forged a living. At Aoraki/Mt Cook Village the

Flying high!

Mt Cook Ski Planes aircraft flies above the alps. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: On the road to Mt Cook village, and the Hooker Valley Track swing bridge. INSET TOP RIGHT: Sun setting on Mt Cook. PREVIOUS PAGE: The Hooker Valley Track.

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Families stop on the roadside to skim flat stones, breaking reflections across Lake Pukaki

mountain experience intensifies as the highest and most dramatic peaks converge. The visitor’s centre, built to capture the light and dramatic views, inspires learning of the region’s natural history. Nearby, the Hermitage Hotel captures the views too. The hotel’s ground floor is a museum dedicated to the feats of mountaineer and adventure hero Edmund Hilary, who used the park’s high peaks as his training ground. In its Alpine Restaurant (temporarily closed for renovation) we devour a delicious meal inspired by local produce

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as the light moves deep shadows into the mountains’ ridges and a crimson sunset glows. Multiple hiking tracks leave from the village. The Hooker Valley Track, suitable for all ages and abilities, is a three-hour return walk. Clusters of the pretty white Mt Cook Lily, the largest buttercup in the world, flourish between three swing bridges, a memorial to fallen climbers, a lake and glacial views. At Hooker Lake the clear views of Aoraki/Mt Cook, peaking at 3754 metres, leave us in no doubt why the Maori named it Aoraki meaning “cloud piercer”. Mt Cook Ski Planes offers a scenic flight over a weaving river, passing jagged, glacially carved peaks, dusted with ice and snow, at eye level. The snow plane lands smoothly on Tasman Glacier, at 27km the country’s largest and longest. We wade about in ankledeep powder snow, and the only sign of human existence is the deep-red hikers’ hut in the distance.

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Star gazing in style Lake Tekapo, just over an hour’s drive away, is known for its stone Church of the Good Shepherd, built in 1935, and a bronze statue of a

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Try it here STAY Lake Ohau Lodge A lakeside stay with great meals and hospitality. ohau.co.nz Glentanner Park Self-contained units and campsites in a sheep station near Mt Cook Village. glentanner.co.nz Musterer’s High Country Accommodation This Fairlie spot is known for its outdoor hot tubs. musterers.co.nz

Lake Pukaki looking towards the Southern Alps. BELOW: A red hut perched above Tasman Glacier. INSET: A platter from High Country Salmon in Twizel.

CYCLE Cycle with The Jollie Biker. thejolliebiker.co.nz Take the Alps 2 Ocean Trail. alps2ocean.com

80 sheepdog that’s a tribute to the region’s farming canines. At the other end of the lake at the base of Mt John, Tekapo Springs features landscaped outdoor hot pools and an aqua play area. Take the 45-minute forest walk that leads to Mt John summit and Astro Cafe for a 360-degree view of plains rimmed by mountains. At night, book a professional tour to gaze in wonder at the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve, which became the first in the Southern Hemisphere when it was declared in 2012. In Fairlie, tractors roll down the main road, passing fashion shops Mint Boutique, Matilda & The Metalman and Mackenzie Rose, and the Fairlie Bakehouse (try the pork or salmon pies). The Red Stag is known for its venison steaks and across the road is Musterer’s High Country Accommodation. Paul and Eunice Taylor’s converted sheep shearing shed, with modern conveniences, provides a unique

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FLIGHT Mt Cook Ski Planes Take a flight over Aoraki/ Mt Cook National Park. mtcookskiplanes.com HIKING Choose from walks of all levels from the village. doc.govt.nz/aorakiwalking-tracks OBSERVATORY Stargaze in wonder at Mt John Observatory. tekapostargazing.co.nz stay. For a touch of true Southern hospitality, make the most of the naturally heated outdoor hot tubs, set among the tussock grasses. It’s a taste of a high-country sheepstation life, without getting your hands dirty. Kelly Lynch was a guest of Canterbury Tourism

Travel info Jetstar has direct flights to Christchurch from Melbourne, Sydney, and Gold Coast and via connections from Auckland and Wellington. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

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shop city Brisbane’s tiny boutiques and big-gun fashion labels battle it out for retail supremacy WORDS NATASCHA MIROSCH

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Spoilt for choice

BRISBANE

BRISBANE CBD

COMPACT AND SET OUT IN AN EASYTO-NAVIGATE GRID (MALE STREET NAMES RUN EAST-WEST AND FEMALE NAMES NORTHSOUTH), SHOPPING IN BRISBANE’S CBD MAY NOT BE KIND TO YOUR WALLET BUT IT’S EASY ON YOUR FEET

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Art by Rone on the walls of TRYP Fortitude Valley Hotel, Vietnamese street eats from Hello Please, the interior of Wandering Cooks, collective space Showroom, Wandering Cooks. OPPOSITE: Historic buildings on Edward Street, Brisbane Arcade.

QUEENS PLAZA

PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY

There are 700 stores along the tree-lined, open-air Queens Street Mall. At one end, Queens Plaza has the David Jones Brisbane flagship store, plus luxe international brands such as Tiffany and Bulgari, Burberry, Chanel and Louis Vuitton, while up a level you’ll find locals Alannah Hill, Carla Zampatti, Sasha Drake, Marcs, Saba and more.

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EDWARD STREET Head down Edward Street towards the City Botanic Gardens for big names such as Gucci, Cartier, Bulgari, Montblanc and Hermes. It’s not all high-roller shopping though – at collective space Showroom you can pick something unique and crafty such as a Once was Lost scarf, designed in Queensland and made by Fair Trade artisans in Ethiopia. Duck into Tattersalls Arcade for a satin-ribboned box of Belgian chocolate brownies from Dello Mano – fans include Anne Hathaway, Steve Carell and Ashton Kutcher, who once had some flown to Paris for his birthday.

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BRISBANE ARCADE There’s a little piece of Brisbane shopping history preserved in this heritage-listed 1920s shopping arcade with its terrazzo floor, balustrade galleries and art deco lighting (and it’s said, resident ghost). Pick up a strand of lustrous pearls at Girls Love Pearls, a piece of estate jewellery from Kellies Antiques or have a one-off piece designed at one of the dozen or more independent jewellers. For the watch collector — Vintage Watch Co. has a range of vintage Rolex, Cartier, Breitling and Patek Philippe.

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PADDINGTON

THE CHARACTERFUL PASTEL-HUED WORKERS’ COTTAGES OF HILLY PADDINGTON, OFTEN THE SUBJECT OF ARTISTS’ BRUSHES, ARE PURE BRISBANE. THESE DAYS, RATHER THAN WORKING-CLASS FAMILIES, THEY HOUSE BOUTIQUES, CAFÉS, HOMEWARES AND ANTIQUES

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There’s plenty to excite retro fashionistas here. Browse the footpath racks at Retro Metro or cross the road to Ra Ra Superstar, its entrance is marked by a pink pathway where stylist Kathy Szwedzinski sells her own label as well as garments by local designers. Everything is made from recycled or vintage fabric. You can find more contemporary on-trend labels such as Very Very, Ministry of Style and Blessed are the Meek at Petrol Boutique. Lovers of Japanese styling will appreciate Queensland designer Deanne Mayocchi’s label Maiocchi, which combines Japanese fabrics with a ’50s-design aesthetic, or Dogstar’s structured, origami-like pieces by Masayo Yasuki.

LATROBE TERRACE The retro love continues, with Vinnies’ vintage furniture, linen and rich pickings in retro formal gear. Across the road, in a 19th century Salvation Army hall, Endeavour Recycled Fashion is favoured by locals for its well-kept designer labels. Downstairs, it pays homage to the decades that taste forgot, with wide-collared shirts, puffy-sleeve taffeta frocks and faux furs. Follow your nose and your environmentally aware ethics to fragrant Organic Index with 65 brands of organic, crueltyfree and vegan products — from body lotions to beard care — made in Australia and New Zealand. The collection includes Gemma Vendetta cruelty-free pressed mineral powder and the popular Australian-made Luna Bronze tanner. Housed in an old theatre with a curved, cobalt-blue roof, Paddington Antique Centre is home to more than 50 dealers, selling everything from vintage kimonos to estate jewellery, kitschy ceramics, clothing and home decor from the 1800s to the 1980s. Sheets on the Line, at the end of Latrobe, just before the shops start to become inhabited cottages, has soft, rumpled, ethically sourced Belgian linen in shades of inky blue, pale pink and smudgy greys that will make linen lovers weak at the knees.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Organic Index, the cavernous Paddington Antique Centre, Maiocchi, Sheets on the Line. CENTRE: Ra Ra Superstar.

PHOTOGRAPHY STEPHANIE ANTILL, MIKE HILBURGER

GIVEN TERRACE

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FORTITUDE VALLEY

THE ONCE DISREPUTABLE SUBURB HAS BEEN GENTRIFIED OVER THE YEARS, BUT THERE’S JUST ENOUGH OF ITS ROUGH EDGES LEFT TO MAKE IT AN AFFORDABLE HOME FOR ARTISTS AND YOUNG DESIGNERS HITTING THEIR STRIDE

labels Haider Ackermann, Dries Van Noten and Stella Jean. Australian designer Camilla has James Street digs too, selling her seasonal range of caftans, dresses and pants in exuberant, jewel-crusted silk prints.

WINN LANE

JAMES STREET Bookended by a bijou David Jones, offering an edit of its larger stores, this tree-lined street at the more genteel end of The Valley is favoured by well-groomed stylists, models and fashion cognoscenti. There’s a fair representation of local design talent at Gail Sorronda and Calexico. Carmargue’s quirky pieces include cult

OFF JAMES STREET In a little greenery-filled arcade Scrumptious Reads’ owner Julie Tjiandra is a scrupulous collector and collator of the world’s most interesting food books and zines. If she doesn’t have it, odds on she can get it for you. Make a detour off James into Arthur Street where Australia’s Queen of Frocks, Leona Edmiston has a boutique selling shoes, jewellery and handbags in addition to her dresses. It also stock frocks in the same fabrics for fashion-forward three to nine-year-olds. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Retail collective Showroom, TYM Guitars, Scrumptious Reads, Gail Sorronda.

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PHOTOGRAPHY SAVANNAH VAN DER NIET, MARK TAINTON

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Astroturf and the waft of smoky meat from Ben’s Burgers mark the entrance to Winn Lane. Hunt for your vintage statement piece at petite Sunday Social, browse Brissie designer Ashiya Omundsen’s whimsical label House of Cards, or if you’re into vinyl and guitars, check out the handcrafted guitars, amps and bases at TYM Guitars (rocker Ryan Adams is a fan).

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BRUNSWICK 3 SEATER SOFA PORTO BIG BOY STORAGE & BOOKCASE SARI COFFEE TABLE

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Chef Paul McGivern, owner of East Brisbane’s acclaimed The Wolfe restaurant, recently opened La Lune Wine Co in Fish Lane with 120 wines from Australia, New Zealand and Europe, plus a menu of dishes to match. Chow down on bao and chicken ribs at shipping container venue Hello Please as trains rattle above your head, or sate your carb cravings with a wood-fired pizza from Julius Pizzeria. Next door Gauge is an envelope-pushing restaurant disguised as a simple café. Don’t miss the black garlic bread with brown butter and burnt vanilla — sweet or savoury, you decide. And if your dessert cravings are more traditional, there’s no beating a scoop or two of something from neighbours, the godfathers of gelato, Gelato Messina.

CLOCKWISE: La Lune Wine Co, TRYP Fortitude Valley Hotel, Emporium Hotel, Hello Please, a dish from Hello Please.

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Sleep it off Street Art from renowned artists Fintan Magee, Numskull, Rone and Beastman adorn both public spaces and rooms at TRYP Fortitude Valley Hotel; Chur Burger occupies the basement and you can share a drink with locals at the rooftop bar. If your travel times don’t coincide with check in, Next Hotel, overlooking the Queen Street Mall has a free 24-hour in-transit lounge for guests with showers, luggage storage and sleep pods. Fashionistas love Emporium Hotel in Fortitude Valley with pillow menus and GHD straighteners, a glam cocktail bar and an authentic French patisserie. Art Series Hotel The Johnson in Spring Hill pays

homage to artist Michael Johnson, with the Sydney artist’s abstract works displayed around the hotel. Also at Spring Hill, The New Inchcolm dates from the 1920s and has an elegant art deco décor and a highly regarded hatted restaurant. For a stay with local flavour the luxury Spicers Balfour Hotel, in a gracious old Queenslander within walking distance of Fortitude Valley, has a quaint honesty bar with spectacular views over the traditional tin-roofed houses of New Farm.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Brisbane from all major cities. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY HELLO PLEASE, LA LUNE WINE CO, TRYP FORTITUDE VALLEY HOTEL, EMPORIUM HOTEL

Once a place inhabited by office rubbish bins and staff sneaking a smoke, Fish Lane has become an epicurean hotspot. It even has its own annual festival in May. Start at Wandering Cooks, a warehouse space with a community sensibility and a bar serving raw cheese platters, charcuterie sourced from pasture-reared, heritage-breed animals and a daily rotating menu from the food start-ups using its commercial kitchens. Micro-bar Maker, seating just 18, has an edgy cocktail list with bar snacks to match, but if beer’s your preferred libation Saccharomyces Beer Café has 10 rotating taps of craft beer and bottled beers.

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BOOKWORM CITY LITERARY LOVERS WILL ENJOY DISCOVERING MELBOURNE’S BOOKISH UNDERBELLY WORDS CORDELIA RICE

PHOTOGRAPHY SUSAN GORDON_BROWN

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alfway along Flinders Street, just opposite the station, a flight of stairs descends below the footpath. Slightly grotty and utilitarian, they don’t look as though they lead to one of the most interesting bookshops in Melbourne. The stairs lead to Campbell Arcade, a tiny row of shops panelled in salmon-pink tiles. Midway along is the Sticky Institute, a shop dedicated entirely to zines — little books mostly handmade on photocopiers. “Sticky is the kind of shop that is lacking from virtually every other city on Earth. There are very few places in the world dedicated solely to selling zines, and certainly none that have endured quite as long,” says coordinator Thomas Blatchford. “We can guarantee you will find underground artwork and storytelling you wouldn’t find anywhere else.” It would be easy to spend hours in Sticky, browsing the works by mostly local artists and writers. The only distraction is the intermittent rattle of trains passing overhead. “There is a strong and supportive zine community in Melbourne, which is a huge signifier that the ‘literary-ness’ of a city has reached beyond its publishing houses and writers’ festivals. The zine community is growing in Melbourne because it’s all about encouraging others to write regardless of their background or experience — if you want to do it, just start,” Thomas says. A new zine getting attention is the online publication Alien She Zine. The founding editors, Loni Jeffs, Mia-Francesca McAuslan and Romy Durrant, chose to publish online as a way of digitising and

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innovating the DIY print format of zine culture. They publish work that is subversive, diverse and confronting, and intend Alien She Zine to be a platform for women and non-binary artists and writers. “Our favourite literary place in Melbourne is the La Trobe Reading Room in the State Library. Many iconic Australian novels were written here, and the magnificent, light-filled room is an inspiring space to read and write. Afterwards, we recommend having a coffee or mulled wine at The Moat Bar & Restaurant below The Wheeler Centre.”

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Our favourite literary place in Melbourne is the La Trobe Reading Room in the State Library Local leanings

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: The Sun Bookshop, the Melbourne Writers Festival, another festival event,the Digital Writers Festival, Sticky Institute. PREVIOUS: La Trobe Reading Room in the State Library.

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The Wheeler Centre came into existence in 2010 shortly after Melbourne was named as a UNESCO City of Literature. Tucked into a wing of the State Library, the centre runs an almost year-round program of events, many of them free. The Centre also supports a number of literary organisations, including the Melbourne Writers Festival, Express Media and the Emerging Writers’ Festival. Else Fitzgerald is a local writer who creates evocative and lingering short stories. Her writing is heavily influenced by her love of language and her childhood in rural Victoria. “I know sometimes it can feel like as a writer you have to be in Melbourne or Sydney to further your career, and I think it would be great if we celebrated and supported literary communities

all around Australia more, so we continue to have diverse voices and stories,” she says. “But at the same time, I love it here and being a part of the literary community here over the past five years or so has been really positive for my writing.” “I think Melbourne is lucky to have places like The Wheeler Centre and be home to so many great literary events. It’s a place where writers from all over the country come to live and work, so you get this melting pot of creativity and community.”

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Inspiring events

Inside Federation Square during the Melbourne Writers Festival.

A meeting of minds

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Each year Federation Square is transformed by the Melbourne Writers Festival. The program is packed with 350 authors, artists and thinkers. Just one highlight of this year’s program is US author and tech entrepreneur Amani AlKhatahtbeh. At age 17, frustrated at the misrepresentation of Islam in mainstream media, Amani launched an online magazine called MuslimGirl from her bedroom. The website flourished and has become a favourite of Muslim women. Local stars of the program include Maxine Beneba Clarke, Alice Pung and Garth Nix. The festival runs from 25 August to 3 September and more than a quarter of the events are free. Festival Director Lisa Dempster says revolution will be a key theme. “It feels like we’re at a turning point on so many fronts— global politics, race relations, the future of media in this country. We’ve got so much to talk about at MWF17,” Lisa says. “Whether your passion is literature, non-fiction, crime fiction or politics, you will find an event to challenge and inspire.”

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But if you can’t make it to Melbourne, there’s always The Digital Writers Festival. Running in October, the festival is the first of it’s kind in the world accessible for anyone with an internet connection and removing barriers that may prevent writers from attending traditional festivals. Izzy RobertsOrr, artistic director and co-CEO of the Emerging Writers’ Festival, says “Part of its mission is to explore digital spaces as a place and also to question the ways in which our locations in physical space interact with our use of digital technologies and storytelling. Using very limited resources, we can connect storytellers who are worlds apart.” In a city where there seems to be a festival for literally anything, there is no shortage of ways to celebrate your love of all things literature.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to Melbourne from across the network. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

3 Best Bookshops THE SUN BOOKSHOP 10 Ballarat St, Yarraville. sunbookshop.com Snuggled next to the Sun Theatre this tiny shop is big on charm and delicately fragranced with the smell of popcorn. Ask one of the knowledgeable staff to recommend a book from the carefully curated selection. EMBIGGEN BOOKS 197-203 Little Lonsdale St, Melbourne. embiggenbooks.com Opposite The Wheeler Centre this bookshop is peak Melbourne, selling both books and coffee. Sip on a latte while you browse the excellent selection of popular science and philosophy. READINGS CARLTON 309 Lygon St, Carlton. readings.com.au Readings was named the international bookstore of the year at the 2016 London Book Fair. The Carlton shop is the OG (original gangster) of the ever-expanding empire. Pop next door to check out the beautiful mural in the recently opened kids’ shop.

Best monthly events THE MOTH Howler, 7-11 Dawson St, Brunswick. themoth.org Ten members of the audience compete to tell the best five-minute story on the chosen month’s theme. WOMEN OF LETTERS womenofletters.net.au Each month five writers, musicians, comedians and politicians celebrate the art of letter writing. MELBOURNE LITERARY SALON Beer Deluxe, Federation Square melblitsalon.wordpress.com For writers, readers and storytellers the last Tuesday of every month is spent discussing words, stories and ideas.

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A RO UN D TH E W O R LD

COCKTAILS

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PHOTO EXHIBITION MELBOURNE ZOO 1 J U LY – 1 O C T O B E R Come face to face with the animals of the Photo Ark, featuring beautiful, large-format images taken by Nat Geo photographer Joel Sartore. zoo.org.au/photoark

Principal Donor

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Major Partners

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QUEENSLAND

NATURALLY Noosa

Noosa Brisbane

Discover a natural escape amid the posh and pomp of Noosa WORDS CHRISTINE RETSCHLAG

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Wildlife encounters

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Noosa Eco Cruises, cycling with Bike On, exploring the Everglades with Kanu Kapers, the Everglades is a haven for birdlife.

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chorus line of cicadas is crooning the cha cha somewhere beyond the banksia bushes. Mullet are jumping to my right, a blue azure kingfisher sits to my left and, up ahead, there’s a squadron of pelicans and a gulp of cormorants perched on naked tree branches. I’m kayaking in the Noosa Everglades, and the Upper Noosa River lives up to its reputation as the River of Mirrors, with a giant gum tree perfectly reflected in its pristine waters. Former Australian Champion Slalom Kayaker Vivienne Golding has been operating Kanu Kapers Australia, guided and self-guided kayaking tours through the Noosa Everglades, for the past 15 years. There are only two everglade systems in the world – the other is in Florida – and the Noosa Everglades is one of Noosa’s bestkept natural secrets. “When people who have been coming to Noosa for years hear about our tour, they say they never knew something so amazing existed so close to Noosa,” Vivienne says. “You are 30 minutes from Noosa and you are into the wilderness. South-east Queensland has become so populated but this has remained pristine. You can drink the water in this river.” The Noosa Everglades attracts 44 per cent of all Australian bird species. A tour might encounter black swans, jabiru, storks and ducks, as well as jacana walking across the water lilies. It’s a similar eco extravaganza on a Noosa Eco Cruise. As skipper Narelle Adams explains, the Noosa Biosphere is one of 669 UNESCOprotected biospheres worldwide, and the first in Queensland. This

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Great riding tracks

People are missing out if they don’t get on a bike or jump in a kayak

spectacular slice of nature totals 875 square km and is home to 711 species of native fauna, which exists across 60 different ecosystems. The Noosa River itself is 25km long. “The fishing in the Noosa River is amazing. You could go fishing and catch 10 fish and they can all be different species,” says Narelle.

From water to wheels Back on terra firma, Bike on Australia offers 300 hire bikes around Noosa, plus guided and self-guided mountain bike tours through Tewantin National Park. The park is just 15 minutes from Noosa’s busy Hastings Street and contains 25km of trails.

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“It’s a national park and with a whole bunch of collaboration they’ve turned it into a mountain bike park. I ride in here every week and I don’t get bored as you can do a different combination of tracks,” Bike On owner Tracey Wyatt says. “These days we are getting a whole different set of people coming up to Noosa who know about mountain biking and who are factoring that into their holiday plans. “The council has done a great job with cycling in Noosa. There are lots of bike lanes and there is no rush hour so you feel super safe.” Tracey, who grew up in Noosa, believes ever-popular Hastings

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Street is only one aspect of the Noosa story. “People are missing out if they don’t get on a bike or jump in a kayak,” Tracey says. “If you were here for a week, every morning you could go to the beach but every afternoon you could go out and do something different. “Noosa has always been very much aware of its natural beauty. Most people who live here aren’t lazy about their backyard. We probably have assumed that tourists are less interested in that and are only coming to the beach. But now tourists are looking for other experiences,” Tracey says.

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Meet some locals

Natural riches Indeed, even Hastings Street has changed. Netanya Noosa has undergone a facelift to become a smoke-free resort with suites featuring Appelles Apothecary skincare and contemporary art by Chelsea Hopkins-Allan. Another highlight of this absolute beachfront resort is that it has just launched Noosa’s first deli, Providore on Hastings, specialising in locally sourced products such as cheese, breads, meats and coffee. Want to meet the providores themselves? Then head to Noosaville’s Belmondos Organic Market, home to eight specialty stores that deliver a European-style marketplace experience. Eumundi Meats owner Jon McMahon explains Belmondos was originally opened 10 years ago by Hastings Street restaurateurs frustrated with not being able to find the ingredients they needed.

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“The Sunshine Coast was a bit barren so they set it up to supply their own restaurant and others as well,” Jon says. “Now, it’s a marketplace with individual stall holders and has become a destination for tourists. Our bread and butter are our locals and tourists are the bonus. They

They want produce that is better than they are used to getting don’t particularly want to come to Noosa to do restaurants every night of the week. They want produce that is better than they are used to getting.” And this produce tells the story of Noosa, naturally.

Travel info Jetstar has great low fares to the Sunshine Coast and extensive car hire options. To book, visit JETSTAR.COM

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The renovated Netanya Noosa. RIGHT: Pelicans spotted on a Kanu Kapers tour. BELOW: A plate from Vanilla Food in Belmondos.

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Cycle cities If you’ve got the bike bug, we’ve got your next destination sorted WORDS EMMA MARKEZIC

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he fixies, the Dutchies, the cruisers – these could be the names of street gangs or Van Halen cover bands, rather than bicycles. Commuter numbers are on the rise in Australia and New Zealand, and more people are cottoning onto the joy of pedal power. In Australia, while in 2005 only 13 per cent of the population said it cycled regularly, that number is now closer to one fifth, and rising. In New Zealand

around 18 per cent of the population cycles regularly. Participation rates are growing among men in midlife, known colloquially as MAMILS (Middle-Aged Men in Lycra), and hipsters, who have sent retro bike manufacturers into overdrive. As its popularity rises, urban cycling is becoming a big part of travel tourism. Here are the best places, spaces and cities to get your pedal on. Pack your bike shorts.

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Sydney

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A scenic cycle along Dawes Point in Sydney. INSET: Cycling the Sydney Harbour Bridge. BELOW: The Town Bike Pitstop.

Each week the group explores a different part of the city, always stopping for ice-creams, a swim at the beach or a drink at a new pub part of the city, always stopping for ice-creams, a swim at the beach or a drink at a new pub along the way.” If you’re so inclined, stop in at the Town Bike Pitstop in Redfern for some French toast and a bike service. Or do it yourself in their communal depot where tools are provided for free.

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The Emerald City’s residents pay its hills no mind. NSW has experienced a significant increase in cycling over the past five years. The Sydney Rides Festival – a month-long event held in October – is the culmination of cycling culture. It includes group rides, workshops, talks and even bike speeddating. Rob Berry, from BikeWise, teaches people to ride with confidence on busy city streets. “The City of Sydney has installed over 70km of off-street cycling paths already, with even more planned,” Rob says. “It would be a shame to ride in Sydney and not go over the famous Harbour Bridge. From there you can utilise the cycleway network to ride through the CBD, Pyrmont, over the Anzac Bridge and around the beautiful foreshore parks in Glebe, or use the Bourke Street cycleway that takes you from the water at Woolloomooloo to the green spaces of Moore Park and Centennial Park.” Every Tuesday the Sydney Night Rides group meets for a social ride; newcomers are welcome. “The rides are always set to an easy pace and no one is ever left behind,” says Rob. “Each week the group explores a different

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Pretty in pink Auckland

CLOCKWISE: The Auckland Light Path, cycling to North Head, Tamaki Drive, a bike parked outside Scarecrow Kitchen.

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New Zealand’s City of Sails enjoys a plethora of waterside rides. Auckland’s waterfront Tamaki Drive bicycle path runs from St Heliers Bay to the Viaduct Harbour in the CBD and is one of the most popular rides in the city. It’s flat, paved and only around 7km. Head to Mission Bay Bike Hire and rent a tandem for the full tourist experience. Jonathan Douglas, from Urban Adventures in Auckland, also recommends the iconic Lightpath. Formed as part of the Nelson Street Cycleway, it includes a string of interactive lights along one side that glow pink after dark. “Auckland is rolling out new dedicated bike

lanes every few months and has at least 50km of cycle-friendly lanes in the city already,” Johnathan says. Sue Sparks, from bike accessory company Urban Bicycle, says much effort is being put in to providing safe-cycling options. “Urban cycling has brought people out on our roads again. I think there are a lot of people who enjoy cycling, but for whom road bikes and mountain bikes hold no appeal.” On Thursdays, try the Bike Breakfast – a regular get-together at Scarecrow Kitchen in the CBD. Also worth a mention is Beercycle’s (beercycle.co.nz) regular Bike Pub Crawls; it’s less urban cycling and more a people-powered bar on wheels.

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Australia’s selfproclaimed cycling capital offers a notable bike share scheme. Melbourne has more than 135km of bike paths. The Capital City Trail, which makes a neat loop of the inner city, is a great way to see the sights. It covers 30km and goes through Docklands, Federation Square, the Melbourne Cricket Ground, the Melbourne Zoo and the aquarium. Yuki Sugahara from the Melbourne outlet of Tokyobike, an internationally popular brand of commuter bike, says the city is made for cycling – much like Tokyo, New York or London. “The idea of ‘Tokyo slow’ can

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You’ll find a bike path on almost every road, and plenty of cycle paths that enable families to ride together

be applied to Melbourne as well,” she says. “In Melbourne, you can just ride around and take in your surroundings. The urban planning here is very accommodating, especially in the inner city. You’ll find a bike

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Cycling along the Yarra, a cycle from Melbourne Bike Share, picking up a bike at Federation Square.

Hire a bike path on almost every road, and plenty of cycle paths that enable families to ride together. Drivers are quite respectful of cyclists on the road too.” The Melbourne Bike Share scheme has more than 50 terminals around the city

and it costs just $3 a day to hire a bike. Melbourne is also home to Australia’s only ride-in cinema at the Coburg Velodrome – an outdoor movie arena designed to encourage its audience to ride bikes into the theatre.

PHOTOGRAPHY MELBOURNE BIKE SHARE, JOSIE WITHERS, VISIT VICTORIA

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Eyes on the road

Adelaide

BEST RUNNERS UP bike than it is to take the car.” As for her favourite bike hotspot, she says it’s the destination that counts. “The Velo Precinct, which is inside the Victoria Park Racecourse Grandstand, is one of our favourite places,” she says. There’s a playground, a café and cycling classes are offered. The best cycle time to visit Adelaide is in January during the Tour Down Under – Australia’s answer to the Tour de France. Stay on in February and you can also catch the Adelaide Fringe Festival: renowned internationally for its arts, culture and comedy. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP INSET: Riders wait for Le Race in Christchurch, Le Race’s scenic route, meet quokkas on Rottnest Island, Tour Down Under in wine country, Adelaide’s Mt Lofty.

Christchurch: Following the devastating 2011 earthquake, Christchurch took the opportunity to install a better cycling infrastructure. Sometimes called the ‘Copenhagen of the south’, the city prides itself on a thriving cycle culture. The famous Le Race that takes place in March brings cyclists from all over. Darwin: The amount of people taking to two wheels in Darwin has surged in recent years, with the many bike-hire outlets making it easy to take a self-guided tour. The most popular cycle paths are around East Point Reserve and offer spectacular views of the Beagle Gulf. Perth: Perth has an expansive coastline and flat terrain making it perfect for cycling. Whether it’s around the Swan River or on the Windan Bridge Loop, there’s plenty to see. Also take a day trip out to Rottnest Island – cars aren’t permitted, making it the perfect place for a bike ride.

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The Adelaide government invested $12 million to help upgrade its cycling infrastructure and expand its free bike-hire scheme last year. Local or tourist, you can borrow a bike without dropping a buck – just leave your licence or passport as a deposit. Adelaide is sandwiched between hills and a coastline, offering many picturesque rides including the path from River Torrens to West Beach, or the ride from Glenelg Beach to Outer Harbour. Jessica Mansfield, a local artist who often takes her three-year-old son to daycare by bike says: “The streets are so wide in Adelaide, and it’s often easier to take the

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Scratchleys is one of Newcastle Harbour’s favourite restaurants, with spectacular views of the busy port. Scratchleys on the Wharf boasts a menu of delicious seafood specialties, outstanding seasonal dishes and daily specials, matched with the region’s best wine. Visit this iconic waterfront restaurant for lunch or dinner, or plan your next special event or function. Open 7 days. Lunch 11:30am–3pm. Dinner 5:30pm–9pm. For reservations phone (02) 4929 1111. scratchleys.com.au

#Scratchleys

Contributing to the NEW Newcastle, the western end of Scratchleys has become Battlesticks. With stunning harbour views and live entertainment every night, Battlesticks is the perfect location for any occasion. Choose from an extensive drinks list, including sensational cocktails, and a delicious tapas-style menu. Open Wednesday to Thursday: 4pm till late and Friday to Sunday: 12pm till late. For reservations phone (02) 4929 6989. battlesticks.com.au

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visitnewcastle.com.au

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FROM BUDDING CULTURAL HOTSPOTS AND COASTAL GEMS TO FINE-WINE COUNTRY AND THRIVING FOOD BOWLS, DISCOVER THE RICHES OF REGIONAL NSW

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CLOCKWISE: The Merewether Surfhouse, surfing Merewether Beach, Balloons Aloft, Sprocket Roasters.

NEWCASTLE Change is afoot in Newcastle. Identified as one of National Geographic’s 2017 Smart Cities, the former industrial city has answered economic adversity with creativity. NSW’s secondlargest city is emerging as a cultural hub on the coast.

CITY LIFE

Getting there

Jetstar offers great low fares to Newcastle from across the network. On the water Once reserved for industry, Newcastle’s harbour is also undergoing a metamorphosis. The ambitious Honeysuckle Precinct has turned 50ha of dilapidated waterfront land into a residential and business hub, giving life to popular venues such as MoneyPenny and the Honeysuckle Hotel. In keeping with the times, Scratchleys on the wharf unveiled a $2 million face lift last November. The iconic venue might have new digs, but still offers the freshest seafood in a prime waterfront location. On the other side of the point on Merewether Beach, the soaring Merewether Surfhouse has become one of Newcastle’s top spots for drinks, dining and mingling.

ON THE MARKET A new breed of Novocastrian creatives are leading a thriving design scene. See it in action at a growing brood of markets. Find one-off fashion, art and homewares at The Olive Tree

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Hunter Valley

Market, where food trucks and live music create a carnival vibe. The folks at Hunt&Gather started with a monthly design market in Gregson Park, and have added the ‘Friday Flea’ market at The Greenroof and night market Street Feast. The Sacred Tree Markets pop up at Nelson Bay and Hunter Valley, an easy drive from Newcastle (check dates online). For blooming beauty, visit the new Newcastle Flower Market on Friday and Saturday when it’s open beyond trade to the public.

Just 45 minutes’ drive from Newcastle, the Hunter Valley is the ideal day trip where you can hop between vineyards and restaurants. A patchwork of vines and fields at the feet of the Broken Back Range, the beautiful region is best seen from above. Balloon Aloft will take you up in a hot-air balloon to watch the sun rise, followed by a breakfast with bubbles at Peterson House. balloonaloft.com Back on land, grab a map and hop on a bike. A number of local operators offer bike rentals, perfect for exploring the Hunter’s sub regions at your own pace. The Palmers Lane wine eco-trail is a good start. palmerslane.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY BALOONS ALOFT, DESTINATION NSW

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New beginnings The fabric of Newcastle’s inner suburbs is changing. Warehouses have been reborn as cafés, co-working spaces inhabit former factories and bike paths have replaced freight-train lines. The Renew Newcastle program has helped small businesses take temporary residence in unused CBD buildings, and the state-of-the-art University of Newcastle city campus opens this year. The urban renewal is bringing new life to the streets. Eat streets Newcastle’s transformation has ushered in a slew of exciting new venues. Fine diners like Restaurant Mason and Subo led the charge a few years back, accompanied by the likes of now-iconic wine bar Reserve and café Sprocket Roasters. Now locals can choose between bars such as Coal & Cedar (so cool you have to text a mobile for entry), craft-beer hubs such as The Grain Store and Foghorn Brewhouse, and trendy all-rounder The Edwards. Newcastle is also now tipped to offer Australia’s best éclair, courtesy of Nicolas Poelaert’s Choux Pâtisserie.

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Jetstar


Come join us for the first ever Hunter Valley Night Glow! Enjoy the spectacle as 10 tethered hot air balloons light up the evening sky in an exciting choreographed display. The Hunter Valley Night Glow promises to be a great night out with family friendly night markets, live musical performance and plenty of fun activities to keep the kids entertained.

WHEN Saturday 30th September 2017 - 5.00pm - 9.00pm WHERE Roche Estate Cnr Broke Rd & McDonalds Road Pokolbin NSW 2320 TICKETS balloonaloft.com/nightglow or rocheestate.com.au

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Explore I REGIONAL NSW

Reel it in

EUROBODALLA Home to pristine beaches, cute coastal towns, an abundance of wildlife and untouched forests, Eurobodalla, south of Sydney, is an idyllic corner of the world.

PHOTOGRAPHY EUROBODALLA COAST TOURISM

WILD WATERS An island sanctuary Montague Island, or Baranguba to the Yuin People, is a natural reserve teeming with fur seals and 93 species of birds. Join a tour at Narooma or Bermagui wharf for a day swimming in crystal-clear water with Australian fur seals or visiting Little penguin colonies on the rugged island. Make a weekend of it by booking the heritage Head Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage, managed by the Parks and Wildlife Service. Until November, you might even spy migrating Humpback, Southern Right and Pilot Whales and Orca from the cottage’s wide verandah. Coast with the most Montague Island is part of the Batemans Marine Park, stretching 100km along the coast and 5km out to sea. You don’t need to leave the mainland to appreciate this incredible territory, with no less than 83 beaches to explore. Surf, snorkel or fish on the beaches around Broulee, or kayak up Tomaga River through a thriving wetland. Or visit Pebbly Beach to see kangaroos hopping on the sand. The region offers a multitude of dream Australian beach holidays.

Getting there

VILLAGE LIFE The small towns of Eurobodalla combine country charm with coastal chill. Feast on famed Clyde River oysters in Batemans Bay, the region’s largest town. Visit the biweekly farmers’ markets in the pretty riverside town of Moruya, or follow ancient Indigenous songlines on the Bingi Dreaming track. From the scenic cycling routes setting out from Narooma to the period Tilba villages and the gourmet cheese dairies of Bodalla, every town has its own charms to be discovered.

The Eurobodalla region is roughly four hours’ drive south of Sydney.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Beach fishing, historic Central Tilba, flying over Montague Island, a fur seal.

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Explore I REGIONAL NSW

CLOCKWISE: The beautiful Tweed Coast, paddleboarding on the Tweed River, families at play, the hinterland, native fruits.

Getting there

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TWEED SHIRE Located in an ancient caldera surrounded by pristine rainforest and beaches, the Tweed Shire is one of NSW’s best-kept secrets.

HIT THE COAST Surf’s up Often overshadowed by its famous southern neighbour Byron Bay, the Tweed Coast is peppered with uncrowded beaches and surf breaks. Dreamtime Beach, south of Fingal Head, is a scenic sweep of sand more popular with locals than holidaying hordes. Duranbah Beach, nicknamed ‘D’bah’, offers one of the most consistent swells on the coast.

Try a private or group lesson with Tweed Coast Surf School, and you’ll follow the waves to the best beaches on the day. Coastal flavour The Tweed Coast’s laid-back vibe belies the sophistication of its dining scene. Taverna commands ocean views in Kingscliff, offering Greekinspired plates featuring local ingredients such as Bangalow pork and fresh squid. Paper Daisy at the achingly hip Halcyon House hotel was the first to put the Tweed on the foodie radar with dishes such as paperbark-wrapped grilled fish and coffee-roasted celeriac. Treat yourself to a stay in one of Halcyon Houses’ individually styled suites, right on the foreshore of pretty white-sand Cabarita Beach.

INTO THE HINTERLAND Take a hike The Tweed Caldera was carved out more than 23 million years ago by an immense volcanic explosion, and today the 1000m-deep and 40km-wide crater shelters a swathe of World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforest. Glimpse an Australia from another

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era on bushwalks such as the popular Lyrebird Track, an easy 300m across Breakfast Creek, or the longer Booyong Walk in Border Ranges National Park. Taste of Tweed Rich volcanic soil also makes Tweed a farmer’s and foodie’s delight. Take a tour with Buck, charismatic owner of Chillingham Bush Tucker, to discover his incredible array of exotic fruits, including soughtafter native finger limes. Stop for a long lunch at Mavis’s Kitchen, a two-storey Queenslander transplanted to the base of Wollumbin where organic dining is informed by finds from the thriving kitchen garden. Make a night of it by booking one of the cute selfcontained cabins, dotted around the verdant property. Culture goes country For an insight into the life of one of Australia’s most loved artists, stop by the Margaret Olley Art Centre in the Tweed Regional Gallery. The entire studio of the late, great painter has been transplanted, creative chaos and all, to this renowned Murwillumbah gallery.

PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION TWEED

Tweed Heads is 87km from Ballina Airport and 30km from the Gold Coast.

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The only snow we see in winter is an award-winning chef. The Tweed: a showcase of farmers, producers and eateries. You’ll find an abundance of fresh produce at authentic farmers’ markets, roadside stalls and local eateries like the 23 year hatted Fins restaurant hosted by celebrity chef Steven Snow. Experience the award-winning Paper Daisy, the home-grown dishes at Mt Warning’s Mavis’s Kitchen and Potager: a kitchen garden in Carool, or the contemporary Greek menu at Kingscliff’s seaside eatery Taverna. The Tweed is bursting with fresh flavours and creative chefs. Now is the time to Taste the Tweed.

DESTINATIONTWEED.COM.AU | 1800 552 979 IMAGE COURTESY RYAN FOWLER PHOTOGRAPHY

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Explore I REGIONAL NSW

MUDGEE With wide, tree-lined streets and heritage buildings, the town of Mudgee is the heart of the Mudgee Region. Around this charming town you can discover fine wines, delicious produce and a close-knit community.

Old-world charm

WINE AND DINE

market prides itself on offering goods grown, reared or made by the stallholders, providing a genuine taste of the region. If your trip doesn’t line up with market day, take matters into your own hands on the Mudgee Farm Gate Trail. On this easy driving route you can pick up fine wines, olives, cheese, fresh fruit, meat and more direct from the producers.

JOIN THE PARTY Get a snapshot of the region at the popular Mudgee Wine & Food Festival (9 September to 2 October). Rub shoulders with winemakers at tasting events, street festivals, cellar door sessions and degustation meals. Sydneysiders are being granted a preview this month, when a taste of the festival comes to Balmoral Beach on 13 August.

CLOCKWISE: Heritage streetscapes in Mudgee, crowds at one of Mudgee’s frequent festivals, the region abounds with thriving farms.

Getting there

Mudgee is 268km and roughly 3 and a half hours’ drive from Sydney.

PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW, MUDGEE REGION TOURISM

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A good drop Tucked up against the Great Dividing Range, Mudgee is thought to have got its name from the Wiradjuri word moothi, meaning ‘nest in the hills’. The temperate climate and sheltered position on the range’s west side makes this nest a natural wine region, where vines have grown since the 1850s. Choose from more than 40 cellar doors. Taste acclaimed drops at Logan Wines in pretty Apple Tree Flat, try organic wine at Lowe or visit Mudgee’s oldest winery, now home to Robert Oatley Vineyards. In town, make use of the wine wisdom at Roth’s Wine Bar, operating since 1923. Taste trails On the third Sunday of the month, stalls appear on the St Mary’s Church lawn for the Mudgee Farmers Markets. The

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do yourself a favour, get yourself to

Mudgee T

he Mudgee Region is a destination on everyone’s bucket list right now, and rightly so. Located less than 270km northwest of Sydney, the fuss-free journey is all part of the adventure, and what awaits is a stunning mix of charm and sophistication. You’ll feel your senses tingle as the cityscape blurs out of view and the vast country landscape opens in front of you.

From the fertile farmland comes great local produce and it’s readily available via cafes and restaurants, farm-gate tours, cellar doors and epicurean outlets. With a winemaking history dating back to the 1850s, Mudgee is the third largest grape-producing region in NSW. It is from this rich source that local chefs and winemakers draw inspiration, certain to delight your palate.

So why not take time out from your busy life, skip town, and find out what all the fuss is about? Swirl and sip your way across over 40 family-owned cellar doors, a distillery and brewery. Eat and treat yourself to the region’s famed local produce. Potter around boutique and chic shopping precincts, spend a day on a lush golf course and find hidden gems while exploring the region’s heritage.

Many ‘tree changers’ now call Mudgee home, and plenty have brought with them a slice of city life, gently connecting it with the authenticity of the country. This, in turn, means an abundance of sophisticated yet earthy experiences for visitors to indulge in.

If you’ve visited Mudgee before, you’ll know the culinary passion runs deep, with the region now a household name among foodies across Australia. For those yet to visit, allow us to set the scene. Mudgee has a rich pastoral history, as reflected in its heritage streetscapes – wide and tree-lined, just as you would imagine from a refined country town.

MUDGEE

45 mins 3.5 hours

SYDNEY

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With a range of breathtaking natural attractions, delectable wine and scrumptious local produce, events to excite, an impressive shopping precinct, lush golf course, and picturesque streetscapes, it’s time you visited Mudgee. Car, train or plane, you certainly won’t be disappointed at the other end of the journey. And, upon your return, while impressing friends with your expertly paired Mudgee produce and wine, you’ll be reminded of that treasured break. And you may just find yourself returning to restock sooner than you think. Begin your journey at visitmudgeeregion.com.au

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MT18 3000lm Max. Brightness Smart Light Technology USB 3.0 Rechargeable

TAKE THE SUN WITH YOU With a massive 3000 lumens brightness, the MT18 flashlight will light up the darkest trail. One handed brightness and focus control, quick USB 3.0 rechargeability and a host of other features make the MT18 the perfect night-time outdoor companion. See the complete range of outdoor flashlights and headlamps at ledlenser.com.au

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Directory I AUSTRALIA

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AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 36 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.

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Available at all CARRY ON stores located at the airport AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND www.milleni.com.au

Address: Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne Tel: +61 (0)3 9654 8933 Web: kenzan.com.au

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travel

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Directory I AUSTRALIA

Perfect Gift for Father’s Day “USUALLY USUALLY every Father’s Day I receive beer, chocolates or tickets for the footy, but this year my son surprised me completely! After a great BBQ in the park and a fish by the creek with my children and grandchildren, I had come home and found that they had changed my toilet seat! I was gob smacked; it had a remote and everything! My son told me that this new seat would wash and dry me with just the push of a button, he said that he had purchased one for his family just last week and they loved it so much that he just had to get one for me to! Well, two weeks later I don’t know how I ever survived without it…All I have to do is sit down on my nice warm seat and go to the toot, once I am finished all I have to do is press a button and I get a warm water wash and warm air dry! Now almost a year later, my toileting is a time of luxury. It is the best Father’s Day present I have ever bloody got!

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Directory I AUSTRALIA / NEW ZEALAND

Zeus Pitas

Yia Yia’s Chips Village Salad

ZEUS STREET GREEK ZSG.COM.AU

#FoodHonestly

We have 17 stores across Sydney, Brisbane, Kotara, Canberra, Perth & Shellharbour. Visit our website to find your local.

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WORK2PLAY

From WORK2PLAY we have you covered. Setting the new benchmark for men’s skincare.

www.blackleopardskincare.com - Melbourne Store - 409a Chapel St, South Yarra

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Explore I INTERVIEW

125 125

The view from on high

PHOTO NICK RAINS

Photographer Nick Rains took to the skies to shoot wild places such as the Pentecost River in WA’s Kimberley region. See more of Nick’s images on page 46.

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NEWS I ENTERTAINMENT I MAPS

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Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

OUR FRIENDS

Fly with friends

JACOB IN JAPAN

Jetstar FareShare

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B

ooking group trips can be a challenge when it comes time to pay the bill, but not with Jetstar FareShare. The new payment option allows groups to split payment for a booking between up to nine people – perfect for families going away together, destination weddings with groups of friends, end of season sports trips, schoolies

week and so much more. Jetstar FareShare can be used across any flights (domestic and international) and flight products (bundles, bags, seats, meals) booked online in Australia or New Zealand for a fee of just $5 per individual transaction. Passengers will be notified via email when their fare is ready to be paid and they will then have 48 hours from the time the booking is

made to visit Jetstar. com to secure their flights. Once payment has been made, each traveller can tailor their experience by adding extras such as car hire, hotels and insurance. Jetstar is the first Australian airline to offer a ‘split the bill’ option and Jetstar FareShare will make booking trips with family and friends easier than ever before on Jetstar.com.

Making Trax Jetstar was recently voted Best Low-Cost Airline, Australia-Pacific in the Skytrax World Airline Awards for the seventh consecutive year. The Skytrax Awards measures the satisfaction levels of millions of customers across a range of travel touchpoints, including their experience with the website, at the airport and on board. The win is testament to our low fares and our crew who work tirelessly to provide the best possible customer experience. A big thank you to all our customers for their support.

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“My name is Laleh Mohmedi, creator of Jacob’s Food Diaries, and I love to make mealtimes fun by creating healthy organic meals for my four-year-old son Jacob that resemble popular animated characters. Recently we partnered with Jetstar to travel to Tokyo, Japan. What an experience! From the delicious food to the amusement parks – not only is Tokyo the food-art capital but it is also the children’s entertainment capital! In the 14 days we were there we had such an adventure. We visited historical sights such as the Senso-ji Temple in Osaka, walked the busy streets of Shinjuku, fed wild reindeers on the streets of Nara, got up close and personal with amazing animals at Ueno Zoo and Osaka Aquarium and, most importantly, ate at the most wonderful restaurants, some of them even located in a subway! Jacob says Japan is the most magical place in the world, with something fun to do every day. Japan will remain in our hearts forever and we can’t wait to return. Thank you Jetstar for the most amazing experience!”

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Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

No nasties noodles on board

Jetstar is pleased to launch Mr Lee’s Pure Foods noodles exclusively as part of its in-flight menu from August. Mr Lee’s Pure Foods is a world-leader in instant cup noodles with no nasties. Jetstar customers can now enjoy a certified gluten-free meal low in salt, calories, sugar and saturated fats, made using only the best freeze-dried ingredients, with vegan options available. Founder and CEO of Mr Lee’s Pure Foods is Australian expat Damien Lee. Damien’s developed his product after a cancer diagnosis in 2014. He understood that as a single dad he not only needed to live for his young sons, but also to adopt more responsible ways to live and eat. Jetstar is thrilled to welcome Mr Lee’s Pure Foods noodles to the Jetstar family. Order a cup now, you won’t be disappointed!

GOOD TRI! We formed a massive orange army in Tropical North Queensland when 103 of our team members competed in the Cairns Triathlon. Led by Captain Craig Needham, the JQ Triathlon Team brought together team members from Australia, New Zealand and Japan, and was one of the biggest groups participating. This was also a huge event for our Cairns Airport team as we helped transport competitors and equipment to and from the race. Congratulations to everyone involved!

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For the

love of lit MELBOURNE WRITERS Festival (MWF) is Victoria’s premier literary event and the largest celebration for readers, writers and thinkers. Each year, more than 70,000 people experience an innovative program of storytelling, conversation and discussion, intellectual debate, educational programs, live performance, music and art events. This incredible array of over 300 events is supported by more than 200 volunteers who share their time and skills to fulfill a variety of roles, including ticket sales, artist liaison and more. MWF is dedicated to supporting the community by ensuring volunteers learn new and valuable skills, meet people who share their

interests and, above all, have an enjoyable and rewarding experience. For many volunteers it’s a labour of love, as they enthusiastically return year after year to share their passion for the arts and literature. If you’d like to be challenged, entertained, learn and be inspired, then join Kooks in supporting this year’s festival. For more information, or to get tickets, go to mwf.com.au.

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Melbourne Writers Festival runs between 25 August to 3 September.

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Essentials I JETSTAR NEWS

MEET THE TEAM

FLEXIBIZ

LIFE AT JETSTAR Working at Jetstar is quite a ride. You’ll be supported to develop and explore, and your work will connect people and enrich lives. We can’t promise there won’t be challenges, but that’s what adventure is all about. The satisfaction and sense of achievement makes for an amazing career. But don’t just take our word for it. We talked to team members from across Australia and New Zealand about their Jetstar adventures. Read their stories below, or at Life at Jetstar – Jetstar.com/au/en/careers/life-at-jetstar.

Fly like a boss with Jetstar’s new FlexiBiz bundle 128

ISABEL

Project Consultant The big switch

As her team sprang into action, Isabel checked the time. Months of planning had gone into the next four hours – by morning, Jetstar’s move to Melbourne’s new Terminal 4 would be complete. Right now, aircraft were being moved and all signage being replaced. Passengers needed clear directions. That’s when Jetstar’s great idea would

come into play – a Star Support Team for terminals, car parks and stations to help people find their way. As dawn broke, Isabel grabbed a coffee. The planning had paid off, they were ahead of schedule and she couldn’t be prouder of her team. In an hour, thousands of passengers would flow through the door for the first time!

All aboard

SCOTT

Airport Services Manager The spice of life

With a firm push on the aircraft door, JQ963 was ready for Adelaide. Scott walked back up the aerobridge, radio in hand. He just couldn’t imagine life behind a desk. Whether he was checking in with pilots and crew, helping passengers or heading out

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on tarmac, no two days were ever the same and that’s what he loved. Nine years in, Jetstar still amazed him. Things changed constantly, but that created opportunity. The next big idea to change Jetstar’s business could easily be his.

At Jetstar, we know many people who regularly travel with us – particularly small businesses – want added flexibility to change their flight, plus some simple onboard extras to make their travel as easy as possible. To meet this need, Jetstar has launch a new ‘FlexiBiz bundle’ at Jetstar.com. The Flexibiz bundle allows you to move your flight for free on the day of travel, get vouchers for unused flights, take extra carryon baggage and select an upfront seat at no extra charge. Consider Jetstar for your next business trip – see Jetstar.com to book.

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From 1 August, Jetstar will donate 25c from every kids snack pack purchased to StarKids.

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Win $1000 of travel vouchers* when you buy Jetstar Travel Insurance

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30 lucky winners will be able to use their vouchers on flights plus a great range of services including accommodation, to make the most of your holiday. Check out T&Cs for details.

Get on board at jetstar.com

*Promoters: Jetstar Airways Pty. Ltd. and AIG Australia Limited. Promotion Opens: 09:00 (AEST) 04/07/17 and Closes: 23:59 (AEST) 18/8/2017. Eligible Entrants: Australian Residents only. Entry: Automatic entry upon a flight booking originating in Australia and purchase of a Jetstar Travel Insurance policy. Prizes: 30 x Jetstar Travel vouchers total value of $30,000. Draws: 18/07/17, 1/08/17 and 22/8/17 at 16:00 (AEST) at Suite 5, Erina Plaza, 210 The Central Coast highway, by Anisimoff Legal. Winner Notification: By phone, email and published in The Australian newspaper within 7 days of each draw. Full terms and conditions: can be found at jetstar.com. Permits: NSW LTPS/17/15110, ACT TP17/01149, SA T17/1100. Insurance provided by AIG Australia Limited, ABN 93 004 727 753, AFSL 381686.

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Grow mental wellness program

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Essentials I CHANGING LIVES

VIETNAM I STARKIDS

Going green in Vietnam Farming families adopt organic methods for a healthy future WORDS LAURA TAY

You can help!

Home-grown goodness

San and his mother cook an omelette on their biogas stove, with fresh ingredients from their farm.

PHOTO LE THIEM XUAN

S

an’s family in Vietnam have gone green, adopting organic farming methods to protect the environment and live healthier lives. As farmers, they rely on the land, so they know how important it is to protect it. “My parents say they do not use pesticides and chemical fertilisers for planting rice. They want to have the rice cleaner, tastier and good for our health,” San explains. Thanks to funds raised by Jetstar customers through the StarKids partnership, World Vision has equipped San’s

parents with training in new farming methods and helped the family build a biogas system in their home. It uses waste from the family pigsty to fuel a stove, so they no longer rely on firewood that fills the home with harmful smoke. The waste can also then be turned into compost, helping San’s family grow lots of healthy vegetables and cash crops to sell at the market. With their rice fields and vegetable crops flourishing, and extra income from raising and selling chickens and pigs, San’s family has built a sustainable income as well as sources of healthy

MAKE YOUR DESTINATION A BETTER PLACE FOR CHILDREN Through StarKids, Jetstar and World Vision Australia are partnering to improve the lives of children and communities in need. Your donations to StarKids help support communitybased development projects across South-East Asia, Australia and New Zealand. These projects cover a range of activities including education and leadership development in Australia and New Zealand, child protection in Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, improving health in Indonesia, and increasing incomes in Cambodia. By supporting StarKids, you can help transform communities living in poverty and give children a brighter future. A proportion of inflight donations are used to pay for their collation and transfer to World Vision Australia. Donate your loose change on-board today, when booking your next flight with Jetstar, or online at STARKIDS.JETSTAR.COM where you’ll find more information. Your small change today could change a life tomorrow! JETSTAR.COM

STARKIDS DONATION TALLY

This year

$1,458,128 Total

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*

$8,909,442

going to school,” San adds. San’s family is one of 300 in this community now using biogas systems for their cooking, and 40 families have also applied the environmentally friendly farming methods. “Will many more farmers take their part in producing clean agricultural products, doing no harm to health and helping protect our environment? My parents and I do hope so.”

food for their growing children. “Thanks to these rice grains, my elder brother and I are able to keep on *Funds raised in last financial year as of May 2017. Total raised since 2007.

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Essentials I INFLIGHT

YOUR FLIGHT I TIPS & FACTS

AEROPLANE ANATOMY Get to know your aircraft and learn what each part does and how it works

FLYING FACTS

DID you

Baggage area Freight and luggage is stored in the bowels of the plane – you might see ground crew loading your bags via containers.

KNOW?

JETSTAR’S 787 DREAMLINERS (the international long-haul aircraft)

In 1987, carry-on wheeled suitcases were invented and aircraft were modified to include overhead lockers to create extra storage. Since then, overhead lockers have become standard on planes.

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Wings

has a

WINGSPAN OF

60 metres That’s taller than the

LEANING TOWER OF PISA

at 57m

which stands

Landing gear Landing gear lets the plane take off, taxi and land smoothly. The Airbus has two wheels on each side under the wing and two wheels at the front. The 787 has four wheels on each side under the wing and two at the front.

FUSELAGE This is the main body of the plane and holds the other components together. It’s where passengers sit and luggage is stored. Pilots sit at the front of fuselage in the cockpit, also known as the flight deck.

While the engine works to move the plane forward, wings help keep the plane in the sky. Air moves up and over the wings, creating lift, which allows the plane to rise and hold itself in the sky. LIFT TH

DR

AG

WEIGHT

RU

ST

STABILISER & RUDDER The vertical stabiliser is a fixed, vertical part of the tail that helps control yaw (the movement of the nose side to side) while the horizontal stabiliser controls pitch (the movement of the nose up and down). A movable part of the vertical stabiliser, the rudder, is somewhat similar to its namesake on a boat, changing the airflow around the stabiliser and producing yaw to the left or right.

* Statistics taken from hq.nasa.gov, Jetstar.com

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SkyZon


AUSTRALIA’S BEST IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

SKY ZONE TRAMPOLINE PARK SYDNEY • BRISBANE • CANBERRA • SKYZONE.COM.AU 132-133_ESSENTIALS_TIPS SkyZone-2017-Promo-Big_Push-Magazine_Ads-Jetstar-V1.indd FOR COMFT FLIGHT.indd 133 1

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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

INTERNATIONAL Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Flights are operated by Jetstar Pacific and commence 1 September (Da Nang-Osaka), and 2 September (Osaka-Da Nang), subject to government and regulatory approval.

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Osaka (Kansai)

Shanghai (Pudong) Guiyang Shantou Guangzhou Hanoi

Taipei

Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Yangon Da Nang Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh

Flights are operated by Jetstar Pacific and commence 1 September (Osaka-Hanoi) and 2 September (Hanoi-Osaka), subject to government and regulatory approval.

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phuket Penang 134 Medan

Kuala Lumpur

Pekanbaru

Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya Bali (Denpasar)

Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns Townsville

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane Gold Coast Perth Adelaide

Sydney Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland Wellington Christchurch

Queenstown

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Route maps I WHERE WE FLY

DOMESTIC VIETNAM

DOMESTIC JAPAN

Hanoi Hai Phong

Sapporo

Tha nh Hoa V inh Dong Hoi Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku Quy Nhon

Phu Quoc

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot

Matsuyama Osaka (Kansai) Fukuoka Takamatsu Oita Kumamoto

Nha Trang Da Lat

Kagoshima

Ho Chi Minh City

Okinawa

Operated by Jetstar Japan

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

135

Auckland New Plymouth Nelson

Darwin

Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Napier Palmerston North Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Ballina Byron Perth

Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide Melbourne (Avalon)

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Launceston Operated by Jetstar Airways

134-135_ESSENTIALS_MAPS_AUGUST.indd 135

Hobart

Auckland

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

11/07/2017 2:59 PM


Explore Australian I INTERVIEW & New Zealand airports

Arriving at our destinations How to get from the airport to town 136

Ballina/Byron

9km 20 mins Approx $20-30 Route J1 or J2 every 15-30 mins. Route J1X every hour. Tickets from $3.20-$5.10.

Blanch’s Bus route 640 connects to Ballina, Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby. From $3.80 adult.

Auckland

TO BYRON BAY 31km 30 mins Approx $80-90 Various shuttle buses available. Prices start at $20. Enquire at airport information desk.

22km 30 mins Approx NZ$75-90 SkyBus. Every 10-30 mins. Adult NZ$16, child NZ$6; return: adult NZ$28, child NZ$12. Takes 40-60 mins 380 Airporter bus service to Manukau City Centre. Every 20-30 mins, NZ$5.

Ayers Rock/Uluru 6km (Ayers Rock Resort) 10 mins Complimentary shuttle buses to Ayers Rock Resort meet every flight. Taxis not available.

TO BALLINA 5km 7 mins Approx $15-20

Brisbane 16km 25 mins Approx $40-50 Con-x-ion Bus. Every 40 mins. Adult $20, return $36. $10 for additional passengers.

136-137_ESSENTIALS_AIRPORT INFO.indd 136

Airtrain. Every 15 mins approx. Adult $17; return $32.

Cairns 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Sun Palm Shuttle. Adult $15, child $7.50. Also operates to Port Douglas: adult $44, child $23.50.

Christchurch 12km 20 mins Approx NZ$45-$65 Super Shuttle. NZ$24 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers. Metro Bus Purple line or 29: Every 30 mins. Adult NZ$8, child NZ$5; return: adult NZ$14, child NZ$8.50.

Darwin 13km 15 mins Approx $20-30 Darwin Airport Shuttle.

Meets all flights. Adult $18, child $8; return: adult $30, child $14. Group discounts available.

Dunedin 30km 30 mins Approx NZ$90-100 Super Shuttle, NZ$30 for one person, NZ$10 for additional passengers.

Gold Coast 23km (Surfers Paradise) 40 mins $59 flat rate to Surfers Paradise. $49 flat rate to Broadbeach. See rank supervisor. Con-x-ion Bus. Every 15-30 mins. Adult $22, child $13; return: adult $41, child $22 (bookings essential). Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle. Adult $21, child $13; return:

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Adelaide

13/07/2017 4:54 PM


Australian & New Zealand airports

adult $41, child $21. Bus 777 and 760. Every 30 mins. Tickets from $8.60.

Sita Coaches to Melbourne. Adult $22, child $10; return: $42.

Hamilton Island

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

5 mins Free airport transfers offered to guests of selected hotels and holiday homes.

Hobart 19km 20 mins Approx $40-50 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Launceston 15km 15 mins Approx $30-40 Redline Airporter meets every flight. Adult $18, child $14; return: adult $32, child $25.

Mackay TO MACKAY 7km 15 mins Approx $15-25 TO AIRLIE BEACH 160km 2 hours Whitsunday Transfers. Adult $69, child (4-15 yrs) $35; return: adult $120, child $60.

Melbourne (Avalon)

25km 25 mins Approx $60-70 SkyBus. Every 10 mins. Adult $18, child $9; return: adult $36, child $18. Skybus operates Express to Southern Cross Station with free city hotel shuttle connections and services to St Kilda and Frankston. Present your Jetstar boarding pass for a discount on any of these services.

Napier/Hawke’s Bay 6km 10 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Super Shuttle to Napier, NZ$20 for one person, NZ$7 for additional passengers. TO HASTINGS NZ$43, and Havelock North NZ$45. Village Shuttle to Hastings, NZ$38, and Havelock North NZ$40, NZ$5 for additional passengers.

Nelson 8km 15 mins Approx NZ$20-30 Nelson Shuttle NZ$18 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers; Super Shuttle NZ$19 for one person, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

TO GEELONG 20km 25 mins Approx $50 Airport Shuttle. Adult $22, child $15; return: $34. Also operates to Bellarine, adult $30, child $16, return: $60; and Great Ocean Rd: Adult $32, child $26, return: $64

Newcastle

TO MELBOURNE CBD 55km 45 mins Approx $130

27km 40 mins Approx $70-80 Shuttle Bus, $40 for one person; $10 for

136-137_ESSENTIALS_AIRPORT INFO.indd 137

additional passengers. Enquire at airport information desk. Port Stephens Coach route 130. Adult $4.60, child $2.30.

New Plymouth 12km 15 mins Approx NZ$40 Scotts Airport Shuttle (bookings preferred). From NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Palmerston North 5km 10 mins Approx NZ$20 Super Shuttles. Adult NZ$18, NZ$4 for additional passengers.

Perth 12km (domestic terminal); 19km (international terminal) 40 mins Approx $35-45 Perth Airport Connect. Tickets $15; return: $30. Transperth Bus 40 from T3/T4. Route 380 from T1/ T2. Tickets from $4.50.

Queenstown 8km 10 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$6 for additional passengers. Connectabus. Every 15 mins. Adult NZ$12; child NZ$5.50.

Sunshine Coast TO NOOSA 30km 30 mins Approx $80 Henry’s Airporter shuttle bus. Adult $30, child $16; return: adult $60, child $32

Translink Bus 622, adult $9.70, child $4.80. TO MAROOCHYDORE 9km 12 mins Approx $23 Con-x-ion buses. Adult $20, child $12, return: adult $40, child $22. TransLink Bus 622. Adult $5.60, child $2.80.

Sydney 8km 20 mins Approx $45-55 Airport Link train from domestic and international terminals. Every 10 mins approx (weekdays). Gate Pass: Adult $13.80, child $12.40, plus cost of rail component. 137

Townsville 6km 10 mins Approx $20-30 Airport shuttle. Adult $10, child $5.

Wellington 8km 25 mins Approx NZ$30-40 Super Shuttle. NZ$20 for one person, NZ$5 for additional passengers. Airport Flyer route 91 bus. Every 10-20 mins. Adult NZ$6-$12, child NZ$4-$7.

Whitsunday Coast/Proserpine Airlie Beach 40km 35 mins Approx $90 Whitsunday Transit. Adult $18, child $13. Whitsunday Transfers. Adult $18, child $13; return: adult $34, child $18. Bookings not required.

11/07/2017 3:03 PM


Kids puzzles

MAZE can you FIND

and

PACK all 3 items before heading to THE SNOW?

can you find 10

SPOT

THE

DIFFERENCE

ILLUSTRATION STEPHANIE SPARTELS, STUDIOSPARTELS.COM

138

differences at the SNOW?

138-143_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 138

11/07/2017 3:04 PM


138-143_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 139

11/07/2017 3:04 PM


138-143_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 140

11/07/2017 3:04 PM


Puzzles

CROSSWORD ACROSS

DOWN

1 Which wallabies are very agile and live in steep, rocky areas? (4,9) 8 What Victorian valley includes the towns Warragul, Moe, Morwell and Traralgon? (7,6) 9 What type of messaging has nearly replaced posting letters? (5) 10 What’s a song that you can’t get out of your head? (7) 12 Emerald City is the capital of which fictional land? (2) 13 What is used to strike the white ball in billiards? (3) 14 A Japanese wrestling style. (4) 17 The capital city of Malaysia is known by what abbreviation? (2) 18 The common name for militarystyle camouflage patterns? (4) 19 In Australia, what is another name for a water fountain? (7) 20 What word element means “cover�, as in stegosaurus? (5) 21 What type of green is named after a citrus fruit? (4,5) 23 What supports and protects animals like lobsters and grasshoppers? (11)

1 What type of ride is The Great Scenic Railway at Melbourne’s Luna Park? (6,7) 2 What type of cheese is made from skim milk curds? (7,6) 3 Where in Sydney is the 400m-long Finger Wharf? (13) 4 What is a name for a feudal lord and a city in Belgium? (5) 5 What word game re-arranges “William Shakespeareâ€? as “I am a weakish spellerâ€?? (7) 6 What type of shelters are traditionally built with blocks of hard snow? (6) 7 What job do Agents 99 and 86 have in Get Smart (1965–70)? (3) 11 A wine region in South Australia is ‌ Vale. (7) 15 “Play your ‌ badly, play your ‌ loudly.â€? Amanda Palmer, â€œâ€Ś Anthemâ€?(7) 16 What’s the surname of Ozzy, Sharon, Jack and Kelly? (7) 22 What adjective means environmentally friendly? (3)























 









   





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11/07/2017 3:04 PM


Quiz

QUICK QUIZ Test your Balinese knowledge with our quiz

142

starring Julia Roberts was filmed in Bali?

1. True or False: Bali is located in the Coral Triangle. 2. Approximately how many degrees south is Bali from the equator? 3. What is the name of the critically endangered bird native to Bali? 4. True or False: Balinese people celebrate Nyepi Day, dedicated to mark the New Year, with a day of silence. 5. What unique colour is the sand found on many of Bali’s beaches in the north and west? A) Red B) Black C) Pink 6. How many days make up the Balinese Pawukon Calendar? 7. True or False: The very rich underwater biodiversity off the shores of Indonesia sustains more than 4000 species of fish. 8. Which famous 2010 film

5

9. How many active volcanoes are there on Bali? 10. What sweet is produced in the world’s largest commercial bamboo building?

Black sand beaches

11. How many seasons does Bali experience? A) Four B) Three C) Two 12. Which UNESCO worldheritage site is found in Bali? 13. Competitions in which popular water sport run yearround all over Bali?

3

14. What city hosts Bali’s respected writer’s festival? A) Ubud B) Denpasar C) Kuta

13

15. True or False: Tourism makes up most of the Balinese economy.

SOLUTIONS

PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO.COM



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QUIZ ANSWERS 1_ True 2_ Eight degrees 3_ Bali myna 4_ True 5_ Black 6_ 210 7_ False, approximately 3000 species 8_ Eat, Pray, Love 9_ Two â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Mount Agung and Mount Batur 10_ Chocolate from Big Tree Farms 12_ Two â&#x20AC;&#x201C; wet and dry 13_ Subak â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the irrigation system for rice paddy fields 14_ Surfing 15_ Ubud 16_ True 138-143_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 142

14/07/2017 11:59 AM


Photo Credit|IG@sarahmbosworth

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W W W. M A D E I N E A R T H . C O M . A U L O S

A N G E L E S

-

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-

D E L

M A R

@madeinearthofficial

138-143_ESSENTIALS_Puzzles.indd 143

11/07/2017 3:04 PM


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20170627_JQ_FlexiBiz_AD_V3.indd 1 144-145_ESSENTIALS_IFE Opener.indd 144

29/06/2017 11:40 am 11/07/2017 3:04 PM


11:40 am

Movies, TV, music and more I AUGUST 2017 I Entertainment

Inflight

Entertainment EXCITING CONTENT, GREAT VALUE! Be entertained en route to your destination – we’ve got a great selection of movies, top TV comedy and drama series, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and games to choose from. Follow the guide to see what’s available

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13/07/2017 4:28 PM


The Fate of the Furious

ザ・フェイト・オヴ・ザ・フューリアス

McLaren

Born in China

マクラーレン

ボーン・イン・チャイナ

| 126 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: F. Gary Gray CAST: Charlize Theron, Dwayne Johnson, Kurt Russell

| 92 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENS DIRECTOR: Roger Donaldson CAST: Mario Andretti, Alastair Caldwell

| 76 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Chuan Lu CAST: John Krasinski, Xun Zhou

Bruce McLaren, the New Zealand founder of the McLaren Motor Racing team, took on the elite world of motor racing and won.

Take an epic journey into the wilds of China where few people have ever ventured, following the stories of three animal families.

ドムは の女性に犯罪の世界に引き入れられ、抜け出 せなくなってしまう。

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation and TSG Entertainment Finance LLC.

146

マクラーレン・モーター・ レーシングチームを創設 したブルース・マクラーレ ンの物語。

動物の3家族の物語を 追いかけ、観客を魅了す る作品。

© 2017 DreamWorks Animation, L.L.C.

All seems well in the Furious family … until Dom goes rogue. Still reeling from the betrayal, the team will have to work with new equipment and old enemies in a race against time in order to bring their beloved friend home. Your favourite characters will take on a venomous villain, portrayed by Charlize Theron, as this blockbuster film transports you around the globe and delivers some of the most epic stunts ever seen in this popular franchise.

© 2017 MARVEL

Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 2 ガーディアンズ・オブ・ギ

ャラクシー リミックス

| 136 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: James Gunn CAST: Chris Pratt, Zoe Saldana, Dave Bautista

The adventures of the Guardians of the Galaxy continue. 『ガーディアンズ・オブ・ ギャラクシー リミック ス』 では引き続きチーム の冒険を描く。

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

© 2017 Disney Enterprises, Inc.

© 2017 Universal City Studios Productions LLLP.

Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Power Rangers

A United Kingdom

Snatched

パワーレンジャー

ア・ユナイティッド・キン

スナッチド

ザ・ボス・ベイビー

ウィルソン

| 91 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Jonathan Levine CAST: Amy Schumer, Goldie Hawn, Joan Cusack

| 97 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Tom McGrath CAST: Jimmy Kimmel, Lisa Kudrow, Alec Baldwin

| 94 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Craig Johnson CAST: Woody Harrelson, Laura Dern, Judy Greer

After being dumped on the eve of vacation, impetuous dreamer Emily Middleton persuades her cautious mother Linda to travel with her to paradise.

The most unusual baby arrives at the home of 7-year-old Tim wearing a suit and carrying a briefcase.

Lonely, neurotic, middle-aged misanthrope Wilson learns he has a teenage daughter.

最も赤ん坊らしくない赤 ん坊がスーツを着込ん で、7歳のティムの家にや って来た。

ウィルソンは疎遠にな っていた妻と再会し、幸 せになるチャンスを手 にする。

| 124 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Dean Israelite CAST: Dacre Montgomery, Naomi Scott, RJ Cyler

Chosen by destiny, five ordinary teens discover they are the only ones who can save the planet. But to do so, they will have to band together. 5人の平凡なティーンエイ ジャーは超人的パワーを 発揮しなければならない。

グダム

| 111 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Amma Asante CAST: David Oyelowo, Rosamund Pike, Jack Davenport

The love of the king of Botswana and a white Englishwoman causes uproar in the late ’40s. セレツェ・カーマ王とルー ス・ウィリアムの愛は、国 際的な波紋を巻き起こし ていく。

146-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_AUG17.indd 146

エミリーは母親を説得し、 楽園へと旅立つ。

The Boss Baby

Wilson

11/07/2017 3:06 PM


Available on 787 seatback screens I MOVIES I Entertainment

Going in Style

ジーサンズ はじめて の強盗

| 96 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Zach Braff CAST: Morgan Freeman, Michael Caine, Alan Arkin

Buddies and retirees Willie, Joe and Al step off the straight-andnarrow for the first time in their lives.

ザ・ズーキーパーズ・

King Arthur: Legend of the Sword

ワイフ

キング・アーサー

| 101 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Niki Caro CAST: Jessica Chastain, Johan Heldenbergh, Daniel Brühl

| 126 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: Guy Ritchie CAST: Charlie Hunnam, Katie McGrath, Annabelle Wallis

A couple risk all to save Jews in WWII.

After pulling sword from stone, Arthur must fulfill his legacy.

多大なリスクを負いなが らも、 アントニーナとヤン 夫妻は数百人のユダヤ 人を自由な地へと密航 させる。

アーサーはアイデンティ ティを奪われ、 自分が何 者なのか分からなくなっ てしまう。

Kong: Skull Island

キングコング: 髑髏島 の巨神

| 118 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPS & CHS DIRECTOR: Jordan Vogt-Roberts CAST: Samuel L. Jackson, Brie Larson, Toby Kebbell

Suddenly Seventeen サドゥンリー・セヴンティ ーン (英題)

| 90 mins LANGUAGE: CHS & ENS DIRECTOR: Zhang Mo CAST: Ni Ni, Wallace Huo, Darren Wang, Ma Su

A diverse team of scientists, soldiers and adventurers unite to venture into the land of the mighty Kong. 科学者、軍人、探検隊か ら成るチームは協力し合 い、島の調査を行う。

離婚を受け入れられずに いるテッサだが、 元夫は婚 約することになり…。

A piece of magical chocolate transports 28-year-old Liang back into the mind of her 17-year-old self. 不思議なチョコレートを 食べた女性は人生を台 無しにしてしまう。

Parental guidance recommended 保護者同伴推奨

| 90 mins LANGUAGE: JPN & ENS DIRECTOR: Sunao Katabuchi CAST: Non, Yoshimasa Hosoya

| 105 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & CHS DIRECTOR: Greg Mottola CAST: Gal Gadot, Isla Fisher, Jon Hamm, Zach Galifianakis

第2次世界大戦中の広島 で結婚した18歳の少女 を描く。

LANGUAGES AVAILABLE:

146-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_AUG17.indd 147

MR.&MRS.スパイ

A suburban couple discover their sophisticated new neighbours are really covert operatives. 平凡な夫婦は新しい隣 人とやっていくのは簡単 ではないことを知る。

JPN: Japanese

147

General

Keeping Up with the Joneses

A young Japanese woman named Suzu moves from Hiroshima to Kure to live with her new husband’s family during WWII.

| 100 mins LANGUAGE: ENG & ENCC DIRECTOR: Denise DiNovi CAST: Katherine Heigl, Rosario Dawson, Geoff Stults

全年齢層鑑賞可能

In This Corner of the World

この世界の片隅に

Unforgettable アンフォゲッタブル

Tessa is barely coping with her divorce when her ex-husband becomes happily engaged to Julia and moves her into the life they once shared.

© 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

生涯の親友であるウィ リー、 ジョー、 アルの3人 は退職生活に見切りを つける。

The Zookeeper’s Wife

CHS: Chinese

The Accountant ザ・コンサルタント

| 126 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: Gavin O’Connor CAST: Ben Affleck, Anna Kendrick, Jon Bernthal

Math savant Christian Wolff works freelance as an accountant for the world’s most dangerous criminals. 天才数学者のクリスチャ ン・ウルフは小さな町の 公認会計事務所を隠れ 蓑にして働いていた。

Recommended for mature audiences 成人推奨

Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian

15歳未満非推奨。15歳未満は 保護者または成人の同伴が必要

Restricted to 18 and over 18歳以上観覧可

Check the classification

Check the classification 分類を確認のこと

ENG: English ENSUB: English subtitles ENCC: English closed captioning

11/07/2017 3:06 PM


Entertainment I MOVIES I Available on 787 seatback screens

Brothers

マイ・ブラザー

| 105 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Jim Sheridan CAST: Tobey Maguire, Natalie Portman, Jake Gyllenhaal

Brothers Sam and Tommy are nothing alike, but when soldier Sam gets shot down in war, Tommy vows to care for his family.

オースティン・パワーズ

| 94 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Jay Roach CAST: Mike Myers, Elizabeth Hurley, Michael York

Special agent Austin Powers is woken from 30 years in cryogenic freeze to take on his nemesis, Dr Evil.

Everybody Wants Some!

Dear John

サム!! 世界はボクらの

| 108 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Lasse Hallström CAST: Channing Tatum, Amanda Seyfried, Henry Thomas

エブリバディ・ウォンツ・ 手の中に

| 117 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Richard Linklater CAST: Blake Jenner, Tyler Hoechlin, Wyatt Russell

Follows an ’80s college baseball team. 1980年、 テキサス。大 学1年の学生は野球部 の新チームメイトたちに 出会う。

親愛なるきみへ

John Tyree, a young soldier home on leave, falls in love with Savannah Curtis, an idealistic college student. 帰郷中の青年兵士は、 保守的な女子大生に恋 をする。

男は、 アフガニスタンで 行方不明になった兄の 妻を慰めるが…。

1960年代の秘密工作員 が最大の敵を倒すために 冷凍睡眠から蘇生した。

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory

カンフー・パンダ3

キャッツ&ドッグス

ハッピー フィート

| 90 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & ENCC DIRECTOR: Jennifer Yuh Nelson CAST: Angelina Jolie, Dustin Hoffman, Seth Rogan

| 87 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Larry Guterman CAST: Susan Sarandon, Tobey Maguire, Michael Clarke Duncan

| 108 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: George Miller CAST: Elijah Wood, Brittany Murphy, Hugh Jackman

Poor boy Charlie Bucket gets to tour Willy Wonka’s factory.

Po must help a village of his fun-loving, clumsy brethren become a band of Kung Fu Pandas.

Human owners remain blissfully unaware of a top-secret, high-tech war going on between cats and dogs.

貧しい少年チャーリー・ バケットは、 ウィリー・ウ ォンカの工場ツアーに参 加することになる。

父親と再会したポーは、 村に住む不器用なパンダ たちを訓練しなければな らない。

人間の飼い主が何も知 らぬ間に、犬と猫の間で 極秘ハイテクスパイ戦争 が勃発していた。

In the world of emperor penguins, young Mumble is born without the ability to sing. He is, however, the South Pole’ s best tap dancer.

Behind The Candelabra

恋するリベラーチェ

| 118 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Steven Soderbergh CAST: Matt Damon, Scott Bakula, Eric Zuckerman

Scott Thorson, a young bisexual man raised in foster care, meets the flamboyant Liberace. バイセクシャルの青年スコ ット・ソーソンは、 エンター テイメント界の大物リベラ ーチェに紹介される。

© 2015 DreamWorks Animation, L.L.C.

148

Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery

チャーリーとチョコレー

ト工場

| 115 mins LANGUAGE: ENG DIRECTOR: Tim Burton CAST: Johnny Depp, Freddie Highmore, Helena Bonham Carter

Kung Fu Panda 3

146-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_AUG17.indd 148

Cats & Dogs

Happy Feet

皇帝ペンギンの世界に 音痴のペンギンが生ま れ…。

Happy Feet 2 ハッピー フィート2 踊る ペンギンレスキュー隊

| 117 mins LANGUAGE: ENG, JPN & CHS DIRECTOR: George Miller CAST: Elijah Wood, Robin Williams, Hank Azaria

When the world is shaken by powerful forces, Master of Tap Mumble brings together the penguin nations. タップの達人マンブルは 息子のダンス嫌いに悩ん でいた。

11/07/2017 3:06 PM


Available on 787 seatback screens I TV SHOWS I Entertainment

DRAMA SERIES

*FRESH OFF THE BOAT © 2015-2016 AMERICAN BROADCASTING COMPANIES. **AMERICAN DAD ©2016 FOX AND ITS RELATED ENTITIES. **BONES © 2017 FOX AND ITS RELATED ENTITIES.

© 2016-2017 American Broadcasting Companies. All rights reserved.

COMEDY SERIES

Modern Family

Trial & Error

モダン・ファミリー

トライアル&エラー

ハンドレッド

The 100

Gotham

22 mins per episode, Season 8

22 mins per episode, Season 1

45 mins per episode, Season 4

45 mins per episode, Season 3

Follow the comical exploits of three families as they work out what it means to be a ‘modern family’. Phil and Claire struggle to keep up with their three kids, Claire’s dad is married to a feisty Latina woman while Jay’s gay son and his partner adopt a little girl.

A young lawyer on his first big case goes to a tiny Southern town to defend an eccentric professor accused of the bizarre murder of his wife.

Nearly a century after a nuclear war has wiped out civilisation, a spaceship carrying humanity’s only survivors sends 100 juvenile delinquents back to Earth to repopulate the planet.

Before Bruce Wayne grows up and becomes Batman, police detective James Gordon fights crime in corrupt Gotham City.

初めて事件を担当することにな った青年弁護士は、南部の小さ な街に向かう。

The Middle

3つのモダンな家族を描くコメ ディードラマ。

ザ・ミドル 中流家族のフツー

Fresh Off the Boat

22 mins per episode, Season 8

フレッシュ・オフ・ザ・ボート

22 mins per episode, Season 2

It’s the ’90s and 12-year-old, hip hop-loving Eddie just moved to suburban Orlando from Washington D.C.’s Chinatown with his parents and brothers. It’s culture shock for his immigrant family in this comedy about pursuing the American Dream. 1990年代を舞台に、郊外に引 っ越してきたばかりの12歳の ヒップホップ大好き少年エディ ーを描く。

The Big Bang Theory ビッグバン★セオリー

22 mins per episode, Season 10

の幸せ

アメリカ中西部に住む中流階級 の中年女性で、3人の子供を持 つ働く母であり、妻であるフラン キー・ヘックは、機転とユーモア のセンスを駆使して、 日々、家族 が正常に機能するように気を配 っている。

American Dad**

アメリカン・ダッド

22 mins per episode, Season 12

Misadventures of a gung-ho CIA agent trying to keep a leash on his hippie daughter and his odd suburban family, which includes an outer space alien and a pet goldfish who used to be an East German spy.

ペニーは、社会スキルが欠けて いる隣人たちに研究室の外の 世界を教える。

娘を支配しようとする、職務に 非常に献身的なCIA捜査官の 災難を描く。

ブルース・ウェインが成長しバッ トマンになる以前は、 ジェーム ズ・ゴードン刑事が腐敗したゴッ サム・シティで起こる犯罪に立ち 向かっていた。

Bones

BONES (ボーンズ) -骨は語る-

149

45 mins per episode, Season 12

Middle-aged, middle class and living in the middle of the country, Frankie Heck is a wife and working mother of three who uses her wit and sense of humour to get her family through each day intact.

Penny moves in across the hall from Leonard and Sheldon, two gifted but socially awkward best friends. She befriends the brainy duo and teaches them about life outside the science lab.

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文明を破壊する核戦争が起き てから約1世紀が経ち、唯一 の生存者たちを乗せた宇宙船 は、地球上で居住させるため に100人の不良少年たちをを 送り返す。

GOTHAM/ゴッサム

A darkly amusing hour-long procedural with humour, heart and character. Dr Temperance Brennan, a highly skilled forensic anthropologist, works with FBI Agent Seeley Booth on murder investigations when the standard methods of identifying a body are useless.

Arrow

ARROW/アロー

45 mins per episode, Season 5

A former playboy, who has just spent five years learning to survive on a desert island, returns to his hometown and decides to use his new skills to right wrongs as a masked vigilante.

ユーモアと愛情深い、味のあるキ ャラクターが繰り広げる、 ブラッ クユーモアの効いた1時間テレ ビシリーズ。通常の手法では遺 体の身元が確認できない殺人事 件の捜査で、有能な法医学者で あるテンペランス・ブレナン博士 とFBI捜査官のシーリー・ブース がチームを組む。

砂漠の島で5年間かけて生き 残るスキルを学んだ元プレイ ボーイ。彼は故郷に戻り、 マス クを付けた自警主義者身とし て新しいスキルを使おうと決 意する。

11/07/2017 3:06 PM


Entertainment Explore I INTERVIEW I TV SHOWS I Available on 787 seatback screens

© Discovery Communications

Adrenaline

Oddbods

Horrible Histories

ワイルド・オーストラリア

オッドボッズ・ショー

ホリブル・ヒストリーズ

30 mins per episode

60 mins per episode

30 mins per episode

30 mins per episode

Amber Wyatt is taking you on a heart-pounding ride in search of the most remarkable toys on the planet and the most exciting machines you can buy. From an aircraft of the future to the most expensive car in the world and ultimate “man-cations” this show is your exclusive pass into the ultimate playground for men.

Australia is one of the largest and most extreme wildernesses on earth; a vast island of deserts, snow-capped mountains and lush rainforest. Here the world’s longestlived culture, Indigenous Aboriginals, have survived by observing and learning from nature.

Follow the adventures of seven adorable characters as they laugh, fool and trip their way through the most seemingly ordinary situations.

Follows the events of the Great Fire of London for its 350th anniversary.

アンバーとカールが2台のス ーパーカーで対決し、 自分た ちの能力を見せつける。

Travel Safe Not Sorry

トラヴェル・セイフ、 ノット・ ソーリー

45 mins per episode

How do you complete your bucket list – without kicking the bucket? Host Tobias Scott shows viewers how to take the fear out of trying new things while still enjoying adventure travel and extreme activities. Whether it’s climbing a 100-foot ice wall, paragliding off a rocky cliff, or exploring underwater caves, we discover that some of the crazy things we’ve always wanted to try aren’t as crazy as they seem – as long as they’re done right. また、 トビアスはユカタン半 島を巡り、その地の奇跡を紹 介する。

146-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_AUG17.indd 150

皆、何かしら変てこな個性を 持っているものだ。

Secret Lives of the Super Rich シークレット・ライヴス・オヴ・ザ・ スーパー・リッチ

30 mins per episode

Secret Lives of the Super Rich brings viewers face to face with some of the wealthiest people on the planet, revealing their voracious appetite for the best of the best and the secret to their extraordinary success. 地球上で最も裕福な人々を 紹介し、 とびきり最高のもの を求める飽くなき探究心と、 桁外れの成功の秘訣を明ら かにする。

ロンドン大火から350年目を迎 え、大惨事を振り返る。

Stuck in the Middle*

ハーレーはド真ん中

30 mins per episode

Harley Diaz navigates everyday life with a not-soaverage-sized family.

オーストラリアは世界で最も 広大で最も危険な自然を有す る国の1つだ。

ハーレー・ディアスが大家族と 送る毎日を描くドラマ。 © Disney Enterprises, Inc.

150

Wild Australia

アドレナリン

The Lion Guard

ライオン・ガード

23 mins per episode

Kion, second-born cub of Simba and Nala, becomes the leader of the Lion Guard.

Star vs. the Forces of Evil** 悪魔バスター★スター・バタフライ

23 mins per episode

A fugitive princess from another dimension takes refuge on Earth. 異次元からやってきた逃亡中の プリンセスが、地球に逃げ込む。

Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy*** ガーディアンズ・オブ・ギャラクシー

シンバとナラの第二子である カイオンは、 ライオン・ガード のリーダーとなった。

29 mins per episode

Batman: The Brave and the Bold

ガーディアンズ・オブ・ギャラク シーは、強力な武器のありかを 示した宝の地図を発見する。

バットマン:ブレイブ&ボー

ルド

30 mins per episode

Batman travels to the past and future, and teams up with fellow heroes. バットマンは過去や未来へと タイムスリップし、仲間のヒー ローたちと協力し合う。

The Guardians of the Galaxy find a mystical treasure map to a powerful weapon.

Star Wars Rebels ****

スター・ウォーズ 反乱者たち

23 mins per episode

A few brave individuals band together in resistance. 数人の勇敢な者たちが反乱者 たちとして団結する。

*STUCK IN THE MIDDLE © DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC. **STAR VS. THE FORCES OF EVIL © DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC. ***MARVEL’S GUARDIANS OF THE GALAXY © DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC. ****STAR WARS REBELS © DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC.

KIDS

LIFESTYLE & REALITY

11/07/2017 3:06 PM


Available on 787 seatback screens I AUDIO/GAMES I Entertainment

ALBUMS

Tash Sultana Notion EP タッシュ・サルタナ ノーション EP

Harry Styles Harry Styles ハリー・スタイルズ ハリー・スタ

イルズ

James Morrison The Great American Songbook

PODCASTS & RADIO

Empire of the Sun High & Low エンパイア・オヴ・ザ・サン ハイ&ロー

Middle Kids Old River ミドル・キッズ オールド・リヴァー

Vera Blue Mended ヴェラ・ブルー メンディッド

The Property Couch ザ・プロ

パティ・コーチ

Fifi, Dave, Fev & Byron フィ

フィ、デイヴ&フェヴ・ポッドキャスト

Carrie & Tommy キャリー&トミ ー・ポッドキャスト

The Em Rusciano Radio Show with Harley Breen ザ・エム・ルチアーノ・ラジオショー・

Shane Nicholson Safe

ウィズ・ハーレー・ブリーン

アメリカン・ソングブック

シェイン・ニコルソン セイフ

Chrissy, Sam & Browny

Amy Shark The Night Thinker EP

Hailee Steinfeld Most Girls

ドキャスト

ジェイムス・モリソン ザ・グレイト・

エイミー・シャーク ザ・ナイト・シ

ンカー EP

LAH-LAH Having Fun

ラ・ラ Jハヴィング・ファン

John Williams John Williams & Steven Spielberg: The Ultimate Collection ジョン・ウィリアムズ ウィリアムズ&

スピルバーグ:ジ・アルティメット・コレ

クション

ヘイリー・スタインフェルド モース ト・ガールズ

Imagine Dragons Thunder イマジン・ドラゴンズ サンダー

Meg Mac Low Blows メグ・マック ロー・ブロウズ

Bishop Briggs The way I do ビショップ・ブリッグス ザ・ウェイ・ アイ・ドゥ

MUSIC VIDEOS

HAIM Right Now

ジョナス・ブルー ft. ウィリアム・ シンジ ママ

146-151_ESSENTIALS_IFE_AUG17.indd 151

Kate, Tim & Marty ケイト、ティ ム&マーティー・ポッドキャスト

The Grill Team ザ・グリル・チー ム・ポッドキャスト

Merrickville with Merrick Watts メリックビル・ウィズ・メリ

プレナー

Mini Meditations (Kids) ミ

ニ・メディテーションズ(キッズ)

Meditations (Adult) メディテ ーションズ(アダルト)

NOVA Hear the freshest hits on NOVA, hosted by Smallzy. オーストラリアからスマルジーが最 新ヒット曲をお届けします。

151

Smooth FM Chill out to these favourites. イージーリスニングプログラム。

GAMES

The Hot Breakfast ザ・ホット・ Hamish & Andy ハミッシュ&ア ンディー・ポッドキャスト

Rove & Sam ローヴ&サム・ポッ Tetris

テトリス

イル&ジャッキーO・ポッドキャスト

Chess

チェス

Hughsey & Kate ヒュージー&ケ

Bejeweled 2

イト・ポッドキャスト

Kinderling Conversation キンダリング・カンバセーションズ

We Fact Up ウィ・ファクト・アッ

Blackjack

ビジュエルド2

ブラックジャック

Disney’s Classic Games

ズニークラシックゲーム

Golf Open

ゴルフゲーム

Hangman

ハングマン

ーム・ポッドキャスト

MemoPics

メモリーゲーム

Game On Australia ゲーム・オ

S.U.D.O.K.U.

ポケット

プ・ポッドキャスト

Lady Antebellum You look Good

The Slow Home ザ・スロー・ホ

レディ・アンテベラム ユー・ルッ ク・グッド

ザ・ディストラプティヴ・アントレ

ブレックファスト・ポッドキャスト

The Kyle & Jackie O Show カ

ザ・パニックス ホール・イン・ユア・

The Distruptive Entrepreneur

ック・ワッツ

Polish Club Divided

The Panics Hole in your pocket

Jonas Blue Ft. William Singe Mama

ィッパ・ポッドキャスト

ドキャスト

ィッド

クローヴス カリフォルニア・ナム

Fitzy & Wippa フィッツィー&ウ

HAIM ライト・ナウ

ポリッシュ・クラブ ディヴァイデ

Cloves California Numb

クリッシー、サム&ブラウニー・ポッ

Tash Sultana

ン・オーストラリア

Solitaire

ディ

数独 (SUDOKU)

ソリティア

11/07/2017 3:07 PM


Backpage I TRAVEL TALES

Dog day afternoon A date with a dog is not all it’s cracked up to be

152

ON A SUNNY autumn day in central Tokyo, the woods of Yoyogi Park beckon. My walking companion Jen, however, has other ideas – every roadside bush must be explored, every stain on the pavement inspected closely. It can be lonely as a solo traveller in the world’s biggest city, so I’ve availed myself of the services of Dog Heart Cafe. Tokyo’s cat cafés are famous, but Dog Heart is one of only a handful of dog equivalents; a small venue devoid of coffee but overflowing with canine companionship for rent. I’d snubbed a roomful of miniature poodles (giving especially wide berth to one in a nappy) and gone straight for Jen, a pint-sized beagle with cartoon-like, limpid eyes. But as soon as I’ve carried Jen down the spiral staircase and got her clipped onto the leash, it becomes apparent I’m being used. In the heady rush of freedom, Jen is on a frantic search for any and every smell, oblivious to my attempts to coax her park-wards. I’ve paid Y3600 (around $40) for an hour of her time, and it takes us nearly 20 minutes to walk 400 metres to Yoyogi’s gates.

152_BACKPAGE_TRAVEL TALES.indd 152

Once inside, the giant drifts of leaves and endless tree trunks just drive Jen into a greater olfactory frenzy. We descend into tense standoffs – her digging her legs in, nose buried into leaves, me standing hopeless at the far end of the taut leash. Defeated, I edge Jen over to a park bench and fish out a ham and cheese croissant

purchased at the station that morning. For the first time, Jen notices my existence. Her doleful eyes are trained to mine, shooting meaningful glances at the pastry. I peel off a strip of ham, and she gobbles it with the noises of a greedy piglet. A few more pieces and we’re best friends. On the return walk Jen trots along

happily, throwing the occasional glance up at me in case another treat materialises. Back in Dog Heart, she wanders off without so much as a tail wag. I may have been nothing more than Jen’s ticket out into the great wide world of smells, but at least we’ll always have the croissant under the autumn trees.

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY ROBERTS

WORDS KRYSIA BONKOWSKI

11/07/2017 3:07 PM


Need a new book? We’ve got you sor ted!

An eye-opening and with its warm lagoon and lush stunning expose on tropical history’s mountains. A day laying on the beach, most wanted man snorkelling, swimming, snoozing,

or admiring the scenery from your hammock, drifts away in no time. But while Rarotonga is fantastic for relaxing and re-charging, she also provides activities and cultural experiences to entertain you for days. For some soft adventure, take Pa’s Cross Country Trek, which traverses the island’s inland mountains and goes to the iconic Needle. Take a four-wheel drive adventure tour, hire quad bikes or take a buggy tour, learn how to paddleboard or scuba dive, go night diving, kite surfing or big game fishing.

Everybody Lies A lagoon cruise on a glass-bottomed Everybody thinks they don’t boat is a must-do. You can snorkel Everybody tells Google amidst the tropical fish before going ashore a motu (islet) for a what they reallybarbeque think lunch

and entertainment involving coconuts, sarongs, music and a good old laugh at life in general. Many resorts have their own island night with traditional music and dancing. Or, there are spectacular shows at the award-winning Highland Paradise Cultural Centre, set in an ancient mountain village at Arorangi, or the stunning theatrical over-water performance at Te Vara Nui in Muri Beach. No matter where you are or what you want to do, the whole island is yours to enjoy.

A treacherous quest

Aitutaki in a magical landscape Often called the honeymoon island, to a secret Aitutakismuggle is pure paradise. It’s onlycure a 40-minute flight north of Rarotonga, and spectacularly beautiful, with its triangular-shaped reef surrounding a bright turquoise lagoon containing 15 small islets. The crystal-clear water brims with bright tropical fish and its pristine white sand beaches are private and secluded. Exploring the lagoon is an absolute must. Book a lagoon cruise where you will visit the outer islets and have lunch on One Foot Island, which some consider to be the most amazing beach in the South Pacific.

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