3–14 HYDROSTATIC PUMP OR MOTOR DISASSEMBLY (Fig. 3–24)

The inner parts of hydrostatic pumps and motors are similar. The following procedure for pump disassembly can be used for disassembly and assembly of motor. (Do not do the steps whichbelong to pump disassembly.)

To disassemble the pump, begin by:

1.Remove pump assembly from the transmission housing. Put plugs in all fluid openings to keep out dirt.

2.Separate pump from the assembly.

To disassemble motor, begin by:

1.Remove the motor from the transmission housing.

2.Remove the back plate from the motor.

Continue to disassemble the pump or motor by:

3.Clamp the end of the drive shaft in a protected jaw vise with the body of the pump up and remove the four bolts (Fig. 3–24, Items 48 and 50) from the gerotor plate of the pump.

* In Motor Only

* See The Parts Microfiche For The Correct Kit P/N

** Some Pumps Do Not Use This Bearing (See BTIB #162)

4.Use a plastic hammer and hit the adaptor (Item 43) to loosen it, then pull the adaptor straight up until it is free.

5.Remove the outer gerotor gear (Item 41), the inner gerotor gear (Item 40) and the key (Item 39) from the pump shaft.

6.Use a plastic hammer and hit the back plate (Item 32) to loosen it, then pull the back plate straight out. Remove the gasket (Item 30).

7.Remove the relief valves (Item 35) from the back plate (Item 32).

8.Lift the piston block (Item 23) from the pump housing.

9.If the pistons (Item 20) did not come out with the piston block, removethem, the spider (Item 21) and the wave washer (Item 22A [motor only]).

10.The piston block assembly (Item 23) must not be disassembled.

11.Remove the pump from the vise.

12.Remove the snap ring (Item 1), shaft seal (Item 2) and the washer (Item 3) from the housing.

13.Remove the shaft (Item 7) from the housing.

14.To remove the camplate (Item 19) from the housing, remove the two snap rings (Item 14) from the side of the housing. Remove the two covers (Items 13 and 15), the two O–rings (Item 12), the one inner race (Item 11) and the two bearings (Item 10). The camplate can now be pushed to one side and removed. The two camplate pivot bearings are a loose fit into the housing.

3–15 INSPECT PARTS FOR WEAR

1.Inspect the charge pump (gerotor) relief valve seat inside the charge pump adaptor. It must be smooth and free of defects.

2.Inspect the charge pump relief valve spring (Item 45).

3.Inspect the gerotor chamber inside the charge pump housing (Item 43) for damage.

4.Inspect the needle bearing (Item 49) inside the charge pump adaptor housing, if the needles are free of loose play and are in the bearing cage there is no need to make replacement of the bearing. (Later Model pumps do not use this bearing, See BTIB #162).

5.Inspect the check ball assembly (Item 38). Make sure the ball seat is in good condition and the ball is free to move.

6.Inspect the flat surfaces of the back plate (Item 32), the finish on the gerotor side must show no damaged surface. The finish on the piston block side must be smooth and free of grooves or metal deposit. The back plate will need replacement if it shows any wear above. The cam stop must be tight in the back plate.

7.The pistons (Item 20) must move freely in the piston block bore. If they are tight in the bore, inspect the bore for damage.

8.Inspect the outside diameter of the pistons for finish condition. They must not show wear or deep scratches. The shoes must fit well on the ball end of the pistons with no more than 0.003 inch (0,076 mm) end play. The flat surfaces of the shoes must be flat, smooth and show no sign of loose metal or metal deposit. The minimum thickness of the shoe can not be less than 0.148 inch (3,759 mm). Do not machine the piston shoes.

9.Inspect the spider (Item 21). It must be flat, no cracks and no signs of wear in the pivot area.

10.Inspect the pivot (Item 22). It must be smooth and show no signs of wear.

11.Inspect the camplate (Item 19) for the condition of the finish of the shoe surface. It must show no signs of scratches.

12.Inspect the shaft for wear or damage in the bearing and the spline areas.

13.Inspect the thrust bearing (Item 6) and washers (Item 5) for wear.

14.Inspect the needle bearing (Item 8) in the housing assembly. If the needles are free of loose play and are in the bearing cage, there is no need for replacement of the bearing.

3–16 TO ASSEMBLE PUMP OR MOTOR

1.Clean all parts in solvent, use oil to lubricate all moving parts before assembly. If necessary, install new needle bearings in the housing. The camplate pivot bearings are a slide fit. The shaft bearing (Item 8) is a press fit. Install with numbered end of the bearing toward the outer side.

2.The following procedure must be used when you assemble the adapter plate to the pump housing.

(a) Put a soft material (such as wood) on the jaws of the vise, then put the drive shaft of the front pump in the vise with the drive shaft down.

(b) Install the adapter plate and the four bolts. Tighten the four bolts with your hand only.

(c) Install the connector (for the drive shaft), then install the rear pump and fasten with two bolts.

(d) Tighten the four bolts to 27–31 ft.–lbs. (37–42 Nm) torque.

(e) Tighten the two bolts to 90–100 ft.–lbs. (122–136 Nm) torque.

3.Install a new O–ring (Item 18) on the camplate trunnion. Put camplate into housing (Item 9). Put the needle bearings (Item 10) and the bearing inner races (Item 11) over the shaft and slide into the housing. The chamfered inside diameter of the race must be inward.

4.Install new O–rings (Item 12) around the outside diameter of the cam pivot bearings. Install sleeve cover (Item 13) and fasten with snap ring (Item 14).

5.Install trunnion cover (Item 15) and fasten with snap ring (Item 14).

6.Install snap ring (Item 4) on shaft (Item 7). Install the thrust washer (Item 5), thrust bearing (Item 6) and second thrust washer (Item 5). Fasten with second snap ring (Item 4).

7.Install shaft in housing and install washer (3), shaft seal (2) and hold with snap ring (1).

8.Clamp this assembly in a vise with the open end of the housing up.

9.Compress the pin keep (24) and install the spline. Install the three pins (25) with the head to the inside of the block. Install the wave washer (Fig. 3–24.1). Install pins in the special grooves of the piston block spline.

10.Install the pivot (22), spider (21) and the piston assemblies (20)in the piston block. Install this assembly in the housing assembly, the piston shoes must be in contact with the camplate. Be sure all the parts are in their correct position.

11.Install and tighten the back plate to give a preload to the wave washer. Remove the back plate (motor only).

12.Install new gasket (30).

13.Install back plate (32).

14.Install new O–ring (36) and back–up washer (37) on the check valve assembly (38). Install O–ring next to the roll pin. Install in back plate (32) with roll pin in back plate.

15.Install key (39) on the shaft and install the inner geroter gear (40) over the shaft. Use oil to lubricate the gear.

16.Install the outer geroter gear (41) over the inner geroter gear (40). Use oil to lubricate the outer gear.

NOTE:On the new adaptor plate (Item 43) the bearing has been removed. When installing this type of adaptor plate (Item 43) use the following procedure for correct alignment.

(a) Clamp the drive shaft of the front pump in a protected vise with the back plate up.

(b) Install the adaptor plate and four bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly with your fingers.

(c) Install the coupler and rear pump assembly. Install the two bolts and tighten to 110–115 ft.–lbs. (149–156 Nm) torque.

(d) The four bolts in the adaptor plate can now be tightened to 27–31 ft.–lbs. (37–42 Nm) torque. This procedure will insure the correct alignment between the two pump assemblies.

17.Install a new O–ring (34) on the relief valve assemblies (35) and install seats (33) and relief valves in the back plate (32).

3–17 STARTING PROCEDURE, AFTER REPAIR

The transmission pumps and motors must be primed and charged with clean oil after disassembly and repair.

To prime the system, use the following procedure:

1.Remove the pressure line from the implement pump. Install a hose from the implement pump to the hydraulic reservoir.

2.With the throttle in the OFF position, turn the engine with the starter until oil flows from the pump.

3.Connect the pressure line to the implement pump.

To clean and charge the system, use the following procedure:

1.Put the gearboxes in neutral position by removing the nut and pulling out on the gearbox levers (Fig. 3–25).

The transmission must not be disengaged with the loader parked on a slope.

W–2305–0298

2.Tilt the ROPS fully forward.

3.Remove the temperature sender from the oil cooler (Fig. 3–26) and install a 1–100 PSI (0–700 kPa) gauge.

4.Remove the outside 10 micron filter (Fig. 3–27, Item 1) and install a 3 micron filter (P/N 6511278) in its place.

5.Loosen and disconnect the tubeline (Item 2) from the 25 micron filter. Turn the tubeline away from the filter. Put a cap (Item 3) on the filter fitting where the tubeline was removed. Connect a hose (Item 4) from the tubeline to the reservoir filler tube.

6.Remove the hydraulic pressure sender from the right side of the loader. Install a 0–200 PSI (0–400 kPa) gauge at this location (Item5).

7.Lower the ROPS. Start the engine and run at idle until charge pressure increases, then run at 2/3 throttle for 1/2 hour.

8.Read the gauge in the oil cooler. If the pressure shows an increase of 10 PSI (69 kPa), make a replacement of the 3 micron filter and run the machine again for 1/2 hours.

9.Read the gauge at the right side of the loader. If the pressure goes below 110 PSI (760 kPa) make a replacement of the 10 micron filter in the reservoir and run the machine again for 1/2 hour.

10.After running the machine, remove the outside filter and install new 10 and 25 micron filters in their correct locations. Install a new 10 micron filter in the reservoir if the hydrostatic motors or pumps are removed from service.

4–1 FINAL DRIVE SYSTEM

4–1.1 Description (Fig. 4–1)

The final drive system is made up of a 3–step reduction gearcase, a 100 H.E. final drive chain, axles and idler assemblies.

4–2 REMOVAL OF REDUCTION HOUSING

1.Tilt or remove the ROPS enclosure (See Section 5). Clean the transmission area thoroughly.

2.Lift the lift arms and install the cylinder stops (Fig. 4–2).

3.Remove the fluid from the reservoir.

4.Remove the transmission covers, hydrostatic pump assembly and motor (See Section 3) and the final drive chain. Remove the lever for engaging the drive gears (Fig. 4–3).

5.Connect the hoist to the reduction housing. Remove three bolts holding the reduction housing to the transmission housing (Fig. 4–4).

NOTE:The bolts on the reduction housing must be tightened to 220–230 ft.–lbs. (298–312 Nm) torque when installing the housing (Fig. 4–4).

6.Use the hoist to remove the reduction housing from the transmission housing (Fig. 4–5). Weight of reduction housing is 120 lbs.

4–3 DISASSEMBLY OF REDUCTION HOUSING (Fig. 4–6)

4–3.1 Removal Of TheIntermediate Gear (6)

1.Remove the bolts which hold the detent part (1) to the reduction housing.

2.Remove the snap ring on the intermediate shaft (Fig. 4–7).

3.Slide the shaft a short way out of the housing. Do not remove the shaft at this time.

4.Remove the thrust washer and small steel ball (2).

5.Remove the shaft from the housing.

6.Remove the gear (6).

4–3.2 Removal Of Input Drive Gear (7)

1.Remove the snap ring from the end of the shaft (8) and snap ring holding ball bearing (13).

2.Remove the gear and shaft (7) with bearing (13).

3.Remove the snap ring (10) holding needle bearing (11) and remove the needle bearing.

4–3.3 Removal Of Output Gear (14)

1.Remove the snap ring (15).

2.Slide the shaft (16) out of the housing.

3.Remove the gear (14), shaft (16), snap rings (19, 20) and bearings (17, 18).

4–4 ASSEMBLY OF REDUCTION HOUSING (Fig. 4–6)

4–4.1 Installing The Output Shaft And Gear

1.Install needle bearing (18) and snap rings (19).

2.Install ball bearing (17) and snap rings (20).

3.Install output shaft (16), thrustwasher (6), gear (7) and snap ring (8).

4–4.2 Installing Input Shaft And Gear

1.Install the needle bearing (1) and snap rings (10).

2.Install the ball bearing (13) and the snap ring (12).

3.Install shaft and gear (7).

4.Install final snap ring (8) on the shaft.

4–4.3 Installing Intermediate Gear

1.Install the shaft (3) and gear (6) in housing. Put the shaft only part way into the housing.

2.Install the thrustwasher (2) and small steel ball on the shaft. Push the shaft fully into the housing.

3.Install the snap ring (4) on the shaft.

4.Install the detent parts on the housing (Fig. 4–8).

To install reduction gear housing, reverse the removal procedure.

4–4.4 Drive Chain Adjustment (Internal Adjustment Type)

1.Put the machine on safe blocks.

2.Lift the lift arms and install cylinder stops (Fig. 4–2).

3.Tilt or remove ROPS enclosure (See Section 5–2).

4.Clean area thoroughly.

5.Remove foot pedal assembly (See Section 2).

6.Remove the floor plate.

7.Loosen idler fastening bolts and turn the adjustment bolt (Fig. 4–9).

8.Turn the large bolt and tighten the idler bracket until no freeplay is present at the wheel on the tightest place on the sprocket. Check at several places on the circumference of the sprocket to prevent over tightening (Fig. 4–10). Tighten the drive chain when freeplayat the wheel reaches 0.500 inch maximum.

9.Tighten the idler fastening bolts.

10.Install a new gasket under the floor plate.

11.Reverse Steps 1–7.

4–4.5 Drive Chain Adjustment (External Adjustment Type)

1.Place the machine on safe blocks.

2.Loosen the idler fastening bolts (Fig. 4–10) and the lock–nut for the adjustment bolt.

3.Turn the large bolt (Fig. 4–10a) to 35–55 ft.–lbs. (55–75 Nm) torque. Check at several locations on the circumference of the sprocket to prevent over–tightening (Fig. 4–10b).

NOTE:Tighten the drive chain when freeplay at the wheel reaches 0.500 inch maximum.

4.Tighten idler fastening bolts to 230 ft.–lbs. (312 Nm) torque.

4–4.6 Drive Chain Idler Removal (Internal Adjustment Type)

1.Lift the lift arms and install cylinder stops (Fig. 4–2).

2.Remove the ROPS enclosure.

3.Clean area thoroughly.

4.Remove the transmission cover.

5.Remove the pedal assembly and floor cover.

6.Remove the 10 micron (internal) filter assembly.

7.Separate the chain and remove links until end clears idler assembly.

8.Loosen the reduction gear housing fastening bolts and move the gear housing away from the side wall of the transmission housing.

9.Remove the two fastening nuts on the idler assembly (Fig. 4–11).

10.Remove the idler assembly.

11.Install a new gasket under the floor plate.

12.Reverse above steps to install.

4–4.7 To Disassemble The Idler Gear (Internal)

1.Remove the two bolts (Fig. 4–12).

2.Separate components (Fig. 4–13).

NOTE:Spacers and bearings are a matched set. Replace as a unit.

4–4.8 Drive Chain Idler Removal (External Adjustment Type)

1.Lift the lift arms and install the cylinder stops (Fig. 4–2).

2.Tilt the ROPS enclosure.

3.Clean area thoroughly.

4.Remove the transmission cover.

5.Remove the pedal assembly and floor cover.

6.Loosen the idler bolt (Fig. 4–10.1, Ref. 1).

7.Loosen the three idler fastening bolts.

8.Remove the adjustment bolt.

9.Remove the idler fastening bolts.

10.Remove the idler bolt, sprocket and bearings.

11.Remove the adjuster (Fig. 4–13.1).

12.Remove the sprocket from the chain. Do not turn the sprocket or bearing cups and races will not match.

Reverse the above steps to install the drive chain idler.

Fastening

Nuts

Fig. 4–13 Separating Components

Fig. 4–12 Remove Adjustor (External) B–02649

Fig. 4–13.1 Remove Adjustor (External)

4–5 REMOVAL OF DRIVE CHAIN

1.Lift the loader and put on safe blocks.

2.Remove ROPS (cab).

3.Lift loader lift arms and install cylinder stops.

4.Steam clean the loader thoroughly.

5.Remove the front transmission cover.

6.Remove pedal assembly and floor plate.

7.Loosen the chain idler bracket (Fig. 4–9).

8.Remove from sprocket lock bolt and nut.

9.Put reduction housing gears in neutral. (Lever on outside of transmission housing (Fig. 4–14).

10.Rotate drive chain until master connector link (white) is in location for removal with chain breaking tool. (If no white link is found, break at any link).

11.Remove connector link and separate the chain.

12.Remove from sprocket, from the axle (Fig. 4–15).

13.Connect a long wire to the chain to aid when installing chain (Fig. 4–16). (If chain replacement only.)

14.Gather up chain while pulling it out of transmission. Disconnect wire from chain and leave wire in loader.

4–6 INSTALLING DRIVE CHAIN

1.Fasten wire to chain. Pull wire around sprockets in same position chain is to be installed (Fig. 4–17).

2.Rotate rear wheel while pulling chain over sprockets.

3.Install front sprocket, nut and lock bolt (Fig. 4–15).

4.Pull chain around sprocket and install new connector link with press–on plate.

5.Use wrench to tighten chain idler bracket (Fig. 4–9). Tighten until there is 0.250 inch maximum wheel movement. Rotate wheel several revolutions to prevent over tightening as a result of high spots on sprockets.

6.When chain tension is correct, tighten the fastening nuts on tighter.

7.Install chain guide (Fig. 4–18).

4–7 REMOVAL OF AXLE

4–7.1 Removal Of Rear Axle

1.Steam clean the loader thoroughly.

2.Remove the ROPS enclosure (See Section 5–2).

3.Lift the lift arms and install cylinder stops (Fig. 4–2).

4.Remove drain plug and let out the hydraulic fluid. (If fluid is to be used again, store it in a clean, covered reservoir.)

5.Remove the pedal linkage and pedal assembly.

6.Remove the front floor plate.

7.Remove the transmission housing cover.

8.Remove transmission pump assembly and rear hydrostatic motor (See Section 3).

NOTE:Put plugs in all openings.

9.Remove lock bolt on axle and remove axle nut (Fig. 4–19).

10.Remove wheel from housing.

11.Put reduction housing gear in neutral (Fig. 4–14). (Remove nut and pull out on lever.)

12.Rotate drive chain until master connector link is in position for removal.

13.Loosen idler sprocket until chain is loose (Fig. 4–9).

14.Use chain breaker tool to remove master link.

15.Tie a wire to one end of chain then pull on other end of chain while turning axle.

16.When chain is out, disconnect wire and leave wire in loader to aid in installation.

17.Remove the sprocket from axle (Fig. 4–15).

18.Remove bolts which hold axle housing to frame.

19.Remove axle assembly (Fig.4–20).

4–7.2 Removal Of Front Axle

Use the same steps as rear axle except omit Step 7, 8, 12, 14, 15 & 16.