Lubricate the suspension and steering grease points (Section Check the condition of the rear brake shoes and

16.1a Lubricating the swivel hub upper grease nipple . . . 16.1b . . . the upper suspension arm inner pivot grease nipple . . . 16.1c . . . and the rear radius arm pivot grease nipple

driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.

16 Steering and suspension lubrication 1

1 Unlike most modern cars, there are a number of steering and suspension joints on the Mini which require regular attention. Provision for lubrication of these joints is by means of a grease nipple, to which a grease gun can be engaged. The grease nipples are located in the following areas (see illustrations): a) Steering swivel hub; two nipples, one upper and one lower on each side. b) Upper suspension arm inner pivot; one nipple on each arm. c) Rear radius arm pivot; one nipple on each pivot. Remove the rubber blanking plug to expose the nipple on early models. 2 When lubricating the front grease nipples it is preferable to raise the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”) so that the load is taken off the suspension. This will allow the grease to penetrate into the joints more effectively. The rear radius arm pivots can be lubricated with the car on its roadwheels if wished. 3 With the car raised and suitably supported, wipe clean the area all round the grease nipple and the nipple itself. Engage the head of a grease gun, filled with the specified grease, squarely onto the nipple, keeping it pushed fully home. Operate the gun until grease can be seen to appear from under the dust cover over the joint or from around the side of the pivot bushes. 4 When lubricating the rear radius arm pivots, a generous amount of grease will be needed each side, quite a bit more than was required for the front suspension joints. It probably won’t be possible to tell when sufficient has been applied, unless you look underneath at the inner attachment on the subframe, it may be possible to see it appear around the inner pivot; add a bit more if in doubt .This is a vitally important area on the Mini and it must be well lubricated. 5 Although not actually part of the steering and suspension, the handbrake cable guides and the moving sectors on the rear subframe should be lubricated at this time to ensure smooth operation. There are no grease nipples, so the grease should be applied with a wooden spatula or similar tool to lubricate these areas thoroughly.

17 Rear brake wear check 1

The procedure for checking the rear brake components is the same as described in Section 14 for models with drum brakes.

18 Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition 1 General

1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. 2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smallerdiameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that are cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed (see Haynes Hint). 3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. If the spring clamps that are used to secure some of the hoses appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks. 4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with screw type clips. Where screw type clips are used, check to be sure they haven’t slackened, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps or screw type clips aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak. 5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid or coolant. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath it will soon show any leaks. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the exact source of the leak can be identified. Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be numbered or colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation. 8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check.

A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak